Backlash ? In my CNC ?

( NOTE : This article references FANUC controls but is basically applicable to all CNC
controls. )
A machine is a machine is a machine. Just because the words CNC are attached to your machine
tool doesn't mean it doesn't get old or lose it's accuracy. And one of the main reasons your CNC
machine losses it's accuracy is due to the ever infamous backlash.
What is backlash ?
The axis motion that makes up your machine tool is done through the use of ballscrews attached to
your machining center's table and spindle housing or your lathes tool turret. The nut for the screw is
usually attached to the table or turret and is connected to the ballscrew which is connected to your
drive motor. As the motor turns the ballscrew, the nut moves the table or turret and your machine
has motion. All ballscrew assemblies have some "slop" or backlash at assembly - the match
between the screw and the nut. Basically backlash is the amount of motion the screw has to make
when reversing direction before the nut and therefore the table or turret start to move.
How is backlash compensated?
Using the machine tools CNC controller, the builder can tell the controller how much motion is lost
when the axis reverses direction due to the backlash. This value is stored in the machines
parameters and when the particular axis goes to change direction, it looks in this parameter to know
how much motion it needs to have (how many revolutions of the screw it needs to make) before the
axis will physically start to move. The value of the parameter is usually in MM, although they may
be in INCH settings in some instances
Why should I care ?
As the machine tool wears or as contaminants get onto the ballscrew and therefore in the nut, the
original backlash settings lose their accuracy and therefore effect the accuracy of the machine tool.
Positioning problems arise, straightness problems arise, as do a host of other related problems.
Basically, the machine does not meet the specs like it did when it was new.
As mentioned above, sometimes contaminants can get onto the screw and then get carried into the
nut. Although most nuts are protected against chips and debris, poor conditions can sometimes
force the debris into the nut causing premature wearing of the screw and a pronounced backlash
problem. Those contaminants can range from coolant to cutting chips. That is why it is essential to
keep the machine areas clean and free from an excessive amount of chips. If chips are allowed to
accumulate, they can become packed and when the machine tool moves, it forces the chips under
guards and into areas where they shouldn't be. Eventually they get forced into the screws and nut
areas causing un-repairable problems. Ballscrew replacement is not a cheap repair. Keep the
expression: "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound or cure" in mind when planning your
maintenance efforts.
What can I do about backlash ?
The normal method for adjusting the machine's backlash involves adjusting the backlash parameter
values. This can be done by a qualified technician or you can give it a try. Outlined below is a brief
but complete explanation of how to check for backlash and how to adjust it in FANUC controlled
machine tools.
How often should you check it ? Recommended time frame would be about every 3-6 months. If
you create the following sample programs in your memory and leave them there or upload and
download them from a shop floor PC, you shouldn't spend much more than one hour or so keeping
your machine accurate and at the same time you'll be checking for any other damaging problems.
For example, if you see the backlash changing drastically, you might find a way lube problems or
chip build up problem before they cause bigger problems.
How much backlash compensation is acceptable ? As mentioned above, all machines have some
backlash adjustment, even when brand new and at ship time. As the machine wears, that value
needs to be increased. Normal wear might have .005" - .010" adjustment in a ballscrew. If the value
needs to be more than .010", it might be time to take a deeper look. Also, you need to check the
backlash at various areas of the screw as it might be wearing more in one area than another. One
example might be on a machining center where the set-up people always mount the vise or fixture
in the middle of the table. Looks good but also causes a massive amount of wear in one confined
area. the best scenario is to mount the vise or fixture all over the table, changing the location for
every job - speading the wear around evenly.
The best way to check the backlash is to first clear out the current parameter value in the control.
The various parameter numbers for the variety of FANUC controls are listed further down in this
page. First, write down the current values, then clear them by setting them to zero. Then make the
machine move through the memory mode. We have found discrepancies in the past between the
machine's handle or MPG mode and the memory mode, so we recommend you run the machine
through MDI or through the machines memory mode. Below are a couple of sample programs for
FANUC controls that you can use to gather your backlash data. Remember, the backlash is the
amount of wasted motion when the particular axis changes direction.
If possible, check the backlash at different areas of the screw. On a machining center, mount the
block in different areas of the table and check. On a lathe, check the backlash as various distances
away from the chuck. If the values are different in the different areas, this could mean that the
screw is worn in one place different than others. On a lathe, this tends to happen close to the chuck
where the majority of the cutting is performed. You can's do much about to prevent it on a lathe but
on a machining center, you can help yourself by mounting the chuck or fixture in various places on
the table to allow for even wear. If you find big differences in the backlash in different areas, it may
be too late and you may have to replace the screw.
Machining Center Backlash Adjusting Program.
If you have a Vertical or Horizontal machining center, the following program will give you an idea
of how to create a program to test the backlash for each axis.
The following is a sample program for the X axis. Start the program with an indicator mounted to
the spindle, touching a block mounted on the table, touching the right side of the block.

You can let the program run a couple of times to make certain that you get the same readings at the
M00's in the program. The difference between Reading #1 and Reading #2 is the amount of
backlash in your X axis.
You can use the same style program making changes as required to perform the same function for
the other axis as well. Basically, you just want the machine to move one way then back, stop so you
can and collect the indicator reading, then move the other way and back and collect that reading.
CNC Lathe Backlash Adjusting Program.
If you have a CNC lathe, the following program will give you an idea of how to create a program to
test the backlash for each axis.
The following is a sample program for the Z axis. Start the program with an indicator mounted to
the spindle or chuck, touching a block mounted on the turret or the tool turret itself, touching the
spindle side of the block or turret.

As above, you can let the program run a couple of times to make certain that you get the same
readings at the M00's in the program. The difference between Reading #1 and Reading #2 is the
amount of backlash in your Z axis.
You can use the same style program making changes as required to perform the same function for
the other axis as well. Basically, you just want the machine to move one way then back, stop so you
can and collect the indicator reading, then move the other way and back and collect that reading.
What to do with the Numbers.
Once you collect the value and know the backlash for your machine, you'll need to adjust the
parameter values. Parameter values for FANUC controls are usually given in MM values, without
the use of decimal point. So, for example, a parameter value of 30, actually means .030 mm - the
decimal point is imaginary and placed three places from the right. You can use the following
conversion formula to change your backlash data to mm, then enter that value into appropriate
parameter - don't forget to drop the decimal point and add any zeros as required.
MM = inch x 25.4
For reference, 1mm = .0394 in.
On a CNC lathe, the value can either be a radius or diameter value. Since there is no easy way to
tell, input a radius value then re-run the test program. Adjust as necessary and make a note so next
time you will know.
When your done, you should re-run the particular axis program again to double check that you did
the backlash adjustment correctly. When you re-run the program, you should see less than .0001"
backlash.
FANUC Backlash Parameter Numbers.
Listed below are the parameter numbers for the various FANUC control models. One note, lathe
controls are T models whereas machining centers are M models.
FANUC Version 6T :
X Axis = Par # 115
Z Axis = Par # 116
FANUC Version 6M :
X Axis = Par # 115
Y Axis = Par # 116
Z Axis = Par # 117
4th Axis = Par # 118
FANUC Version 10/11/12T :
Par # 1851
Seperate line for each axis.
FANUC Version 10/11/12M :
Par # 1851
Seperate line for each axis.
FANUC Version 0T :
X Axis = Par # 535
Z Axis = Par # 536
FANUC Version 0M :
X Axis = Par # 535
Y Axis = Par # 536
Z Axis = Par # 537
4th Axis = Par # 538
FANUC Version 16/18/20T :
Par # 1851
Seperate line for each axis.
FANUC Version 16/18/20M :
Par # 1851
Seperate line for each axis.
NOTE :This 16/18/20 series of control can have a seperate backlash amount when moving at a
feedrate and for moving at the rapid rate. This is an option - check with your machine tool builder.
If this is the case, Parameter number 1851 is for feedrate and # 1852 is for rapid. You can use the
programs above, just change from G00 to G01 and add a feedrate to test for the feedrate backlash
amount.
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Eliminating Backlash, Part 1: Basics
If you're looking over this page, I'll assume you wonder why you should eliminate backlash
(or how much can your stand), you want to build a CNC machine from scratch, or you are
converting a manual machine that has measurable backlash. If you have a machine
already converted that has the "good" parts (like ballscrews), and still have too much
backlash, try Part 2 for ideas to solve your problem.
What is Backlash?
According to the CNC Dictionary, backlash is any kind of unexpected play in an axis due
to clearance or looseness of mechanical parts. When the axis is commanded to move,
the drive motor may turn briefly before movement begins. That delay is the backlash.
Backlash has a variety of causes. The most common is play between the leadscrew
threads and those of the nut. ACME screws can have considerable backlash of this kind,
while ballscrews may have almost none. Another source is any tendency for the screw to
move axial in the bearings that hold it, or any other such play in the system. Precision
angular contact bearings with preload are often used to combat this tendency. Gears,
belts, and chains can all introduce backlash into a mechanical system. Even loose
fasteners or flex in the mounting plates or chassis can be a source of backlash.
Why Eliminate Backlash?
Backlash is a subject that comes up frequently in CNC machine discussions, and it seems
machine makers are willing to go to no end of trouble and expense to eliminate backlash.
Why is it considered so bothersome?
There are several reasons. First, CNC machines are largely blind and even most closed
loop systems lack much ability to sense that the axis hasn't moved even though the motor
has. A system that has both encoders on the shafts and some form of linear encoder may
be able to sense the axis hasn't moved, but even a machine that "knows" the backlash is
there suffers from the other problems.
A second issue for backlash can occur while climb milling (for a definition of climb and
conventional milling, try the CNC Dictionary). Climb milling is often preferred to
conventional milling because it produces a better surface finish and places less stress on
the machine and cutter. However, if an excess of backlash is present, the action of the
cutter can operate to pull the workpiece suddenly into the cutter by a distance equal to the
backlash. At the very least this is counterproductive to surface finish and at the worst, it
can result in a broken cutter, scrapped workpiece, or even injury to the operator from
flying debris. Very bad! Clearly this one doesn't go away even if the machine knows how
to compensate for the backlash. The benefits of climb milling are so great that even some
of the later manual milling machines at the high end came with ballscrews or "backlash
eliminators" just so climb milling could be practiced on these machines. You can still buy
retrofit kits today to add ballscrews to say a Bridgeport mill for this purpose. If you don't
plan to CNC the machine, make sure your ballscrew installation is properly spec'd to avoid
"back driving". This is where the friction on the ballscrew is so low that it won't hold the
table in place against the cutting forces. It's largely a matter of specifying the right lead for
the ballscrew or in some cases have a friction mechanism on the axis that can be
engaged and disengaged as needed.
The last issue is one of smooth continuous machining when direction is reversed. It's
possible for a CNC machine to do things a manual operator spinning the handwheels
could never do, like cutting a smooth circle. The operator needs a rotary table to do this,
but a CNC machine can smoothly operate two axes precisely enough to generate a circle,
unless there is backlash. It turns out a circle forces several changes of direction
throughout the course of the cut. See theStepper/Servo/Backlash Simulator for more
details of this, but here is an example of what such a cut looks like when there is backlash:

Backlash "Ears": 1" diameter circle, 0.020" backlash on both X and Y axes...
The little kicked out "ears" happen at each point an axis changes direction on the circle.
You can imagine also that when a part is being profiled, the spindle is moving back and
forth and up and down to follow the contours of the part. Every time the spindle goes down
and then shifts back up, that is a reverse of direction. Backlash is going to cause
inaccuracy or dwell marks at those points where the direction is reversed.
As a matter of fact, cutting circles is an acid test for a mill. Try one and see how it turns
out to get a rough idea how your backlash is doing as well as a number of other factors.
It's worth noting that lathes have it a lot easier than mills where backlash is concerned.
There is no equivalent of climb milling on a lathe, and a reversal of direction need not
occur smoothly while cutting as often.
Lastly, the CAM software you'd like to use to generate your g-codes assumes your
machine has no backlash. It doesn't produce code that operates the machine the way a
manual machinist sensitive to avoiding backlash problems would.
Okay, hopefully we've made a believer out of you that you want to get rid of backlash.
BTW, for some applications, such as plasma cutting, the resolution needed may be so low
that quite a lot of backlash is acceptible. Try to keep that in perspective as well.
What About Backlash Compensation?
When a manual machinist is faced with backlash, he naturally follows a routine that for the
most part allows him to ignore it. That routine involves taking up the slack (or backlash) on
the handwheels before beginning to cut. Machine control software such as Mach 3 can
automatically follow the same routines for backlash. It isn't quite as good as the operator,
because it lacks his "feel" of exactly when the lash is gone and instead relies on being told
how much backlash is present. It's very hard to get that exactly right and it may change as
your leadscrew wears or your machine needs adjustment (for example the gibs need
adjusting). Remember also the problems with climb milling and reversing direction. Our
manual machinist probably avoids both because he knows he'll get into trouble. We're not
getting full value out of our CNC machine if we force it to avoid climb milling, cutting
circles, or the host of other operations that involve changes of direction during a cut.
So, backlash compensation is a weak bandaid for the problem. It's better than nothing,
and may tide you over until you break out the checkbook and fix your backlash, but it isn't
something you'd probably like to live with long term. If your machine is a lathe, you may be
able to live with just backlash compensation.
How Do I Measure the Backlash in My Machine?
Okay, next question. How do I know how much backlash I have? A DRO is handy if you
have one, because it will directly measure how far the axis really moved. Failing that, put a
dial indicator in the spindle (attach one with an Indicol or similar and don't turn the spindle
on for Heaven's Sake!). Set it up to read against a 1-2-3 block or other flat reference, put a
little tension on it with the handwheel (or manually jogging a CNC machine) to get a
reading, and zero the indicator. Now move the axis in the direction that takes the tension
off the indicator a distance that is greater than any possible backlash and read that off the
handwheel. Turn the handwheel in the opposite direction exactly the distance you read off
from the first movement. Check your dial indicator. The amount it did not get back to zero
is your backlash.
A DRO will directly measure the distance travelled, and when I first got my Industrial
Hobbies mill, I measured 0.010" of backlash on the X-axis using my DRO.
Sources of Backlash in Conventional Machines
Okay, so where is that backlash coming from and what's it going to take to eliminate it?
In all likelihood, the majority of your backlash is coming from your leadscrew and
associated nut. Most manual machines will use an ACME leadscrew. Because of the
nature of these screws, if the nut is made tight enough to eliminate the backlash, it
introduces too much friction and the screw becomes impossibly hard to turn. In addition,
the nut is often made of a material that wears more rapidly than the screw, so that it may
be replaced more cheaply than replacing the leadscrew itself. Such nuts often have an
adjustment to take out some of the excess backlash as they wear. When they don't or
when they're not adjusted properly, or when all the adjustment is used up on an old
heavily used machine, you get lots of backlash. It is not unusual to see backlash of 0.005"
on a good quality manual machine with ACME screws, and that figure can easily
deteriorate to 0.025" or worse on a badly worn machine.
There are other sources too, such as the gibs or the mounting of the nut or screw. There
can be play in how a handwheel or motor is attached to the shaft as well. Since the
leadscrew is the biggest source of trouble, we'll consider leadscrew alternatives first.
The "Good Parts": Leadscrew Alternatives
The most commonly discussed alternative to a conventional ACME leadscrew for CNC
use is a ballscrew. Ballscrews are typically intended for CNC work, and so are made to
minimize backlash. Because they turn with a lot less friction than an ACME screw, they
can be built to much tighter tolerances. Ballscrew come in rolled and ground flavors, with
the latter being more precise and more backlash free. A decent rolled ballscrew will deliver
0.003" backlash while a poorly made one has perhaps 0.010". A ground screw ought to be
no more than 0.001" and probably should be less. There are ways to reduce this further
having to do with the nuts and preloading of oversized balls, which I'll talk about below.
Besides ground versus rolled, ballscrews come in different accuracy grades that you
should be aware of:
C0 - 3um or 0.0001" per 300 mm / 12"
C3 - 7um or 0.00027" per 300 mm / 12"
C5 - 14um or 0.0005" per 300 mm / 12"
This refers to how close the position will be after the screw has turned through 12" of
motion. Note that in this area, there are ACME screws available that are every bit as
accurate, so the ballscrew has no special advantage here. Another thing to be aware of is
that a lot of machine control software, including Mach 3, has a feature known as
"ballscrew mapping". This feature lets you measure the true position reached at various
points along the ballscrew and use it to compensate for errors in the ballscrew. This
function works very well, and should be taken advantage of if you have the means to
accurately measure the deviations. This alone is a good reason to install an inexpensive
DRO at least temporarily on your machine until you can get the compensation tables
calibrated.
It is also interesting to note that this error can vary as the temperature changes based on
the room the machine is in and how hard its working. Companies such as Heidenhain sell
special controls based on linear scales (i.e. scales like a DRO uses) that dynamically
compensate for such errors on very high accuracy machines. It's quite interesting to read
their technical articles about this and gain an understanding of how much error can accrue
from such factors as temperature variations. The effects of a fully warmed up machine
over the full length of the ballscrew was about 0.004", which is significant to many
applications.
There are some alternatives to ballscrews that I won't discuss here. They're not seen very
often, and you can research them on the web if you like.
Nuts, Nuts, and more Nuts
Lots to know about nuts and backlash. First, you can get nuts made to reduce the
backlash of an ACME screw? Wait a minute, you say, we just spent all that time hearing
you can't do that without getting too much friction, what gives? Well, it turns out that if you
make the nut from Delrin or similar low friction material, you can pretty well get rid of a lot
of the normal ACME backlash and things work well for a time and with limited cutting
forces. I feel this is a good solution of something like a plasma or router table, but I'm
skeptical about how well it would work if you need high cutting forces, for example, to cut
metal. In addition, such nuts will wear out rapidly and need to be protected from chips and
other contamination.
Secondly, one can arrange a scheme whereby there are two nuts with a spring (such as a
Belleville Washer) between them to preload the backlash out of the system. This works for
ballscrews, and it also works for ACME screws, albeit with a lot more friction. This is
normal approach to eliminate backlash with ground ballscrews. It adds a fair amount to the
cost, but is worth it.
The last trick is to load the ballscrew with some oversize balls to take out the slop. This is
the normal approach to fine tune a ground ballscrew, and it will work to an extent with
rolled screws, but there is a problem with the latter. Since rolled screws are not made to
the same degree of precision as ground, too much preloading with oversized balls can
lead to binding. The grooves are simply not laid out precisely enough to use this method
to eliminate all the backlash.
Using these techniques carefully, one should be able to get the backlash in the ballscrew
itself down to the tenths level (0.0001" to 0.0005") or perhaps less with a very high quality
screw.
Mounting the Leadscrew and Nut Properly: Angular Contact What? They Cost
What?!??
Now you've get a ballscrew with either double nuts or preloaded properly with oversized
balls. The next step is to ensure the ballscrew is mounted properly. Unfortunately, this is
neither an easy, nor particularly inexpensive thing to do. By design, ballscrews are
intended to be secured at their driven end by a pair of angular contact bearings. The other
end of the screw is either left to float free in some designs, or secured by a bearing in
such a way that if the screw expands or contracts due to heat, it has the freedom to do so
at this end. The two angular contact bearings are typically installed in a preloaded
configuration which holds the ballscrew firmly and prevents any motion along the screws
axis, but still lets the screw turn freely when driven. There is a lot to know to propely
design and build a ballscrew mounting of this type!
First thing is to get familiar with the bearing maker's literature on angular contact bearings:
Barden
Timken
NSK
FAG
It's really not all that painful to read through these documents, and there is a lot of good
interesting information there. If you learn nothing else, be sure to study the standard
nomenclature used to identify these bearings. If you're going out fishing on eBay or the
Internet to find them, you've got to know how to identify what you're looking for or looking
at.
Now given those resources, we can start to explore some of the issues, or at least some
rules of thumb that can be used in this area. First, how does the double bearing mounting
look and work? Here's a basic schematic representation:

Mounting a Ballscrew with 2 Angular Contact Bearings...
Note the crossed lines. These are the contact angles for the angular contact bearings.
Because they are opposed, this provides the resistance to back and forth motion along the
axis of the ballscrew. In addition, the bearings are preloaded to take out any internal slop.
The preload is provided by the spacer between the bearings, the shoulder of the
ballscrew, and the lock nut that is threaded on the end of the ballscrew and bears against
the other end of the bearing pack. The ballscrew shoulder and locknut bear on the inner
races of the bearing, while the mounting block and cover bear on the outer races. The
torque on that nut establishes the preload, and all of these surfaces need to be finished
with some fair precision if the end result is to work precisely. The cover is simply holding
the bearing assembly in place with respect to the machine, but it does need to be tight
with respect to the outer races, so some shimming or spacers may be required.
In this case I have shown the two bearings mounted in the DF, or duplex face to face
configuration. The pressures against axial movement are outward, and you can see the
bearing balls are supported in that way. You can reverse both bearings to create a DB, or
duplex back to back configuration. This still works, and in fact, the bearings will be even
stronger at fighting axial movement. The advantage of the DF configuration is that the
assembly can tolerate misalignment a lot better, so this is the recommended configuration
in this application.
Okay, let's assume you've carefully perused the bearing literature, you understand the
way they're to be employed, how do you select the best bearings for your application?
There are a number of selection parameters to consider:
Bore Size
You're going to want a bore that works with your ballscrew. In all
likelihood, you may have to turn and thread the end of the
ballscrew. You want as precise a fit as possible for best accuracy.
The larger the bearing, the stronger it is likely to be as well,
though you can check the specs to see for sure. You can't run the
ballscrew inside a sleeve to make it fit a bearing that's too large
and hope for any accuracy, however.
Contact
Angle
Remember the crossed lines above. The greater the angle, the
stiffer and better the bearings will be. 15 degrees is the low end of
the scale, 60 degrees is the high end of the scale.
Preload
More is better. You shouldn't exceed the recommended preload of
the bearing, but bearings are made to different preload specs. Get
the ones with more preload for this application. It is amazing how
much preload can be beneficial in eliminating as much backlash
as possible. Think 500 lbs and up if you really want to control
backlash to minute levels. A typical 15 degree contact angle
bearing with high preload might only tolerate up to 125 lbs of
preload.
Alternatives:
You can concievably stack 4 bearings instead of 2 in order to do
better, but I confess I do not know much about this higher level of
vodoo!
In addition, while I said not to exceed the preload, if you have a
cheap set of bearings (not a $1000 set!), you might experiment
with creeping up on more preload. The downside is that it is
going to introduce friction and wear that at some stage may be
self defeating.
Quality,
Accuracy,
and
Tolerances
The bearing is going to have some slop in it. The higher the
accuracy rating, the less there will be. Here is the secret decoder
ring:
DIN JIS ABEC
Bore
Diameter
Width Radial Runout Application
P0
Class
0
1 (0.00012) 0.00012
P6
Class
6
3 (0.00008) 0.00012 0.00008
P5 Class 5 (0.00008) 0.00008 0.00006 Machine
5 Tools
P4
Class
4
7 (0.00006) 0.00004 0.00003
Machine
Tools,
Spindles
P2
Class
2
9 (0.00004) 0.00002 0.00002
High Speed
Spindles
There is at least one highly regarded low end CNC mill being
sold today that uses ABEC3 bearings to mount the ballscrews.
OTOH, if you want the best, ABEC 7 is the way to go. Note how
small the actual differences are between these two grades:
0.00008" runout vs 0.00003" runout. Half a ten thousandth! I can
see why for many applications the ABEC 3 works well enough.
You need to decide what will be good enough for you, as this
particular specification drives up bearing prices faster than
anything else. It's easy to pay $1000 or more for a set of ABEC 7
bearings.
Axial Load
Rating
If your bearing manufacturer offers this number, you've got the
diving rod right there. This is the measurement of what it takes to
cause axial motion with the bearing. You want the biggest
honking axial load you can get!
Understanding Angular Contact Bearings Specifications for Ballscrew Applications
When it comes to mounting these little jewels, keep in mind that you probably want ground
spacers between the two bearings and the preload nut probably wants to be ground as
well. All that can be done for you by a qualified shop, or in some cases you can purchase
the parts already ground. Try to buy your bearings as a matched pair (they'll say "DUL" or
"DUH" in the bearing name) and they won't need the spacer between them either. As
mentioned before, you may need to shim or spacer the bearings in the mounting block to
make sure they're properly locked in there on the outer races. You will also want some
form of dust seal to keep the junk out of your bearings. Here is an exploded view of a
professional ballscrew bearing block:

Note that the spacers shown here are not for preload, they simply allow more bearings to
be mounted in the block for even greater stiffness, or different spacers would allow some
bearing substitutions. Also note that this block has the bearings mounting in DB
configuration, rather than DF.
I suspect when you first start shopping for these bearings, particularly if you set out
looking for ABEC-7's, your initial reaction is going to be one of discouragement. Great
bearings are really expensive. It's easy to spend $1000 without hardly getting started.
Your application may justify it, but most don't. Here's a couple of less expensive
compromise bearings I came across that are worth looking at:
7204CTDULP4 : $200 for a duplex pair by Nachi (good name) that can be run in DF
config, and are ABEC-7's. The downside? There's only a 15 degree contact angle and the
preload is light. Still, not a bad starting point.
7204 : $200 too much? How about $24 each for ABEC3's? The downsides--they're not
ABEC-7's and they're not a matched duplex pair. OTOH, they have a better contact angle
at 40 degrees. Can't tell from this what the preload spec might be, which is bad. Note that
what they're calling it, just "7204", is an incomplete desription by bearing nomenclature
standards. It would be like calling a person "Frank". If you know there person well, you
know which Frank, but in this case "7204" only tells us the size of the bearing. There's a
lot we don't know about these bearings, and most of it is probably to the detriment of
performance. You don't want to just go ask for a "7204". Read the information above and
learn how to fully specify your bearing if you want the best performance.
What if you do want the all the performance possible? Try to find some bearings such as
"7204A5TYDUHP4". They'll have a higher contact angle and preload than the
"7204CTDULP4" bearings I mentioned, which as we've discussed makes it a better
choice. The real expensive bearings, the ones designed for ballscrew applications on
machine tools and used by pros, would be something like "20TAC47BDF". That
nomenclature is a little different, but you can find them out there in the bearing catalogs.
They won't be cheap, but they have a huge contact angle, 500 lbs of preload, and they are
ABEC-7's. Don't expect to find the 20TAC's sitting in an eBay auction or expect to buy
them from a skate bearing supplier. You might get lucky, but it's unlikely in the extreme.
Get ready for some sticker shock on the price, but if they're what you need for ultimate
performance, that's what it takes. Many bearing manufacturers keep these types of
bearings in a separate "precision" or "machine tool" bearing catalog. Be sure to sniff
around their web sites for those catalogs to see what these bearings are and to learn
more about how to employ them in this sort of application.
There are endless combinations and trade offs. Shop carefully. Your mileage may vary,
and by all accounts, you do get what you pay for!
The other end of the ballscrew can be left unsupported, and indeed has been in at least
one CNC mill out there, but this limits the speed you can drive the ballscrew without
whipping. In this case, support it with a normal deep groove ball bearing such as you
would use on an electric motor shaft. It's not providing precision, it's just providing support
and the leeway for the ballscrew to expand and contract axially with temperature changes.
I Want to Use Cheaper Bearings Instead of Matched Duplex Pairs
This can be done. The matched pairs have simply had either the inner or outer race
ground so there is a differential size between the inners and outers and preload can be
had by compressing the shorter of the two until the races from the two bearings are in
contact. One can achieve the same effect by using spacers on one or the other race (but
not both!) to create that differential instead of grinding. Doing this is going to require a
certain amount of skill and perhaps a lot of trial and error.
The first step is to measure the bearing race deflection with a given amount of preload.
Use the amount recommended by the bearing manufacturer for these bearings. This given
amount can be placed on the bearings using weights. Measure how much the races
deflect with that amount of weight, and then make yourself a spacer with the same
thickness.
For a DB configuration (stiffest configuration, but most alignment sensitive), you will be
shimming the outer bearing rings. For a DF configuration (less stiff, but more tolerant of
shaft misalignment), you will shim the inner bearing rings.
A variety of things can be used to make the bearing spacers, but they need to be very flat,
and they will be very thin. In a pinch, aluminum foil could be used, but you'll need to
carefully cut it to the correct size to serve. A more elegant solution is to draw up the
appropriate washer shape in your 2D CAD program, send it to a laser cutting house, and
have them cut washers out of shim stock. You'll want to get some in 0.010", some 0.020"
and some 0.002 and 0.005's. Be sure to consult your bearing handbook to make sure the
washers are sized properly before you have them made up.

A note of warning: don't try to set preload by a torque wrench on the nut you're tightening
or some sort of calculation on the force that nut delivers! It is almost impossible to get it
right. A lot of the force is eaten up as friction, and you will not have enough data to do
proper preloading this way. The required information is held closely by the bearing
manufacturers. When properly installed, tightening that nut will just tighten down the races
on the shoulders and spacers. The nut will come to a stop when things are tight and you
should not over tighten further.
A second warning: don't think you can get the preload right by feel. It is very easy to
damage your bearings this way!
You really do have to rig up a test rig with weights and measure deflection!
You should also make sure the bearings are not fit too tightly on the shaft or in the bearing
block. A hand slip fit is all you need! Too tight a fit can damage the bearings or make it
impossible to accurately set preload.
For more thoughts and details on angular contact bearings, check out my mill belt drive
spindle project page.
Align the High Spots When Installing the Bearings!
I want to stop here and mention an important point, particularly if you are about to
disassemble a ballscrew mounting assembly. Be sure to record the orientation of the
bearings relative to the housing so you can put them back exactly as you found them.
When assembling a new bearing system for the first time, most of these bearings have the
high spot marked on the bearing. Align the high spots for the two bearings. This ensures
that the ballscrews moves eccentrically in the same direction as the two bearings rotate,
rather than wobbling, and will result in better performance.
Okay, that's the basics. I will assume at this stage you have a good ballscrew, proper nut
to minimize backlash (or preloaded oversized balls), and a good mounting scheme using
high quality angular contact bearings. I would hope your backlash is measuring
considerably less than it had been before all those new goodies got installed. Hopefully its
under 0.005". The next section discussed refinements to further reduce backlash.


Eliminating Backlash, Part 2:
Refinements
If you're looking over this page, I'll assume you have a machine already converted that
has the "good" parts (like ballscrews), you've gotten rid of most of your backlash (let's say
you're down to 0.005" or less), but you still have too much backlash. If instead you either,
wonder why you should eliminate backlash (or how much can your stand), you want to
build a CNC machine from scratch, or you are converting a manual machine that has
measurable backlash, try Part 1.
I Installed <Insert "Good Part" Here>, And Still Have Backlash. What Should I Do?
First, make sure you do in fact have the Good Parts on your machine and that they are
installed in the most advantageous way. If you have any doubt, you might just quickly
peruse Part 1.
Okay, so you have the good parts and still have backlash. How to go about diagnosing?
Simply put, there are just a few areas that can be sources of the backlash on a given axis:
Leadscrew & Nut
Leadscrew and/or Nut Mounting
Motor Drive Mechanism
Slideways and or Gibs
Machine Flexure and Rigidity
Let's look at each one, describe how backlash can develop there, and discuss what you
might do to eliminate that cause if you diagnose it as a problem.
Gibs
Let's start here because it is the easiest to work with and likely the source of a fair amount
of your problem. I'm assuming you're not running commercial ball bearing linear slides, but
have conventional ways of one kind or another with adjustable gibs. Start by making sure
the slideways are properly lubricated. I hate to leave out that essential point, but while
we're on it, be sure your ballscrew, ballnut, and angular contact bearings have proper lube
as well. Remember, any unnecessary friction can translate into forces that want to bend or
deflect something and can lead to backlash.
Unfortunately, adjusting your gibs is a matter of art coupled with much trial and error. I will
try to provide some insights. The recommendation is to run the gibs as tightly as possible
but no tighter. Easier said than done. If they are too tight, that yields the unnecesary
friction that then leads to flexure or stick/slip which leads to backlash. If too loose, there
can be slop in the system which translates to backlash and in the worst case, binding and
more backlash. In the end, you need to creep up on it by gradually tightening the gibs and
taking backlash measurements at each tightening. The backlash should gradually reduce
until you've gone too far, at which point it'll jump back up. Back off in small increments and
try again to find the sweet spot, being better informed about when to stop the next time
around. I have often wondered if measuring the torque applied to the adjusting screws
wouldn't be a way to make this a little more systematic and scientific. It can take you
literally hours to get this right the first time, but it's worth it if you're chasing out the last
increment of backlash.
Of critical importance is balancing the forces if you don't have tapered gibs. Tapered gibs
have a single adjustment screw that varies tension along the whole length of the gib. Non-
tapered gibs use multiple adjusting screws along the length of the gib, and the challenge
is to get them all about even. Again, I wonder whether a digital torque wrench wouldn't be
a God send to balance that all out properly.
Trial and Error: Tighten, Measure Backlash, Rinse and Repeat
In terms of more analytical approaches, I have two suggestions. First, you can simply
adjust your gibs while systematically measuring backlash and quit when you have as little
backlash as possible and it is still possible to turn the leadscrew. Note that minimum
backlash may not turn out to be at maximum gib tightness, so that's why we're measuring
backlash each time we tighten the gibs.
Set Gibs Based on Slop Perpendicular to the Axis
A second analytical approach is one I was told is the Bridgeport factory procedure (and is
also recommended by Fadal) for setting up the gibs. Use a 0.0001 reading indicator and
measure the slop in the slide. Example: For the X axis, place the mag base on the end of
the saddle and put the stylus on the table. At that end of the table push and release. Then
pull and release. The differance is the amount of clearance in the slide. Repeat at the
other end of the saddle. Adjust gib in a like new machine with little wear to give a reading
of 0.0005 (note, Fadal recommends 0.0003", while Pyramid, a rebuilder, recommends
0.0004"). A machine with more wear will have to be checked with the table closer to the
end of travel. The same procedure is used to set the saddle to knee gib. There must be
some clearance for the oil film and that film also helps dampen vibration. On a machine
with hardened and ground box ways and turcite on the moving member the procedure is
to set the clearance to almost nil. 0.0001 is a good number. This is again a practice of
checking backlash while setting the gibs, the difference is the Bridgeport factory knew
what backlash to expect on a newly manufactured machine.
Prototrak wants you to adjust their lathes so the cross slide has not more than 0.001" of
slop perpendicular to the axis.
Use Your Load Meters
Now suppose you have a CNC machine. Are there load meters on each axis? If so, you
have a shortcut to consistent gib adjustment because the load meter will tell you how tight
you have them. I plan to install load meters on my upcoming IH mill CNC conversion for
this and other reasons. The load meter is just an ammeter on the axis DC supply before it
gets to the driver board, so it wouldn't be hard to add these. One account I read suggests
setting the gibs so that your axis load is about 30%.
Use a Torque Wrench
Southwestern Industries (ProtoTrak) sets the gib tightness on their CNC lathes using a
torque wrench. They recommend 15 in/lbs of torque be all it takes to turn the ballscrews.
Linear Slide Adjustments
If you are running ball bearing linear slides, and you have two of them on an axis, are they
truly parallel, or are they binding up because they're not? The latter will result in flexure if
you overpower it with a strong motor and leadscrew combination. You've got to get them
parallel to an acceptible standard,
Leadscrew & Nut
The gibs are adjusted to best effect, and you're still on the hunt for backlash. What's next?
Is everything bolted up tight with no play or flexure back to the machine? Just check it out
carefully, perhaps even disassembling and reassembling to make sure everything is
torqued well. Make sure the leadscrew runs parallel to the direction of axis travel, or you're
going to get binding at some point that may force flexure and therefore backlash into the
system. If you have access to do so, try to place your indicator against the mounting
points of the ballscrew and ballnut in order to check for small amounts of flexure where
there should be none. If you find some, you either need a beefier bracket, beefier
mounting method, or less friction in the system (gibs too tight? everything lubed properly?
ways in good shape?).
You can also try setting the indicator's magnetic base on the table, and the indicator tip on
the ball groove of the screw. Try to move the table by hand. You should not be able to
move it far at all (<0.0005" on a commercial CNC machine). If you have too much play
here the ballnut to ballscrew connection isn't tight enough (need preload? ballscrews or
nut too worn?) or the nut mounting may be loose.
Do you have a beefy enough leadscrew? This is largely a function of diameter. Check out
what companies like Hiwin are using in their Bridgeport conversions. Did you buy a little
wimpy ballscrew intended for a much lighter application? If so, it is probably flexing when
you try to generate too much force with it.
I'm hoping you find nothing of value here, because if you do, and you change anything,
you have to go back and re-adjust those darned gibs. Doh!
Leadscrew and/or Nut Mounting (aka OMG those bearings are expensive!)
Okay, we spent a lot of time on this in Part 1. But maybe you bought cheaper bearings
than will suffice for your application. You might want to save this for last, because if all
else fails, you will face the expensive proposition of upgrading the (probably already
expensive bearings) to some better (even more, possibly much more) expensive bearings.
Try to come up with a way to measure just the play in the ballscrew versus the bearings.
Disconnect the nut from it's mounting, position a dial indicator to read the end of the
bearing end of the ballscrew, and try to push and pull on the far end. Can you read any
play there? Given some of the preload numbers we've talked about (125 lbs to 500 lbs),
you might need a fair amount of push/pull force to tell. Do the best you can. If there is too
much play here, you may have a problem with the ballscrew mounting, very likely the
bearings.
You can also run a test with the ballscrew turning. Most ballscrews with have an
indentation in the end. You can rely on the end to be true, but you can place a ball bearing
in the indentation and then indicate off the ball bearing. The ball bearing can be held in
place with a little dab of grease or superglue. This is one of the best ways to measure the
motion of the ballscrew in its bearings.
Make sure the bearings are installed properly. Are they facing each other properly in the
DF configuration or is one flipped? Check the torque on the lock nut for proper preload.
What about the mounting block for the bearings? Are they tight in there, or can they move
around? Check the spacers, shims, and fits of it all. Remember we talked about how in the
most precise designs a lot of this requires ground precision?
How about the ballscrew and ballnut? Is there play there? Try the opposite of the prior
measurement. Leave the ballnut mounted, but remove the bearings supporting either end.
What kind of play is there? Is the ballscrew used? Could it be worn? If so, consider
reloading some oversized balls, but start in small increments. BTW, there are outfits that
will do this for you at a nominal charge and it is a pain, so consider using one. If you have
double ballnuts, how about adjusting the preload?
Motor Drive Mechanism
Spring couplers have a bad reputation where backlash is concerned, especially if a lot of
torque is required. Oldhams are better if you are direct driving, but a timing belt drive is the
best. Make sure your belts are not overly worn and are tensioned properly. Are both
pulleys mounted well on their shafts? Commercial CNC machines will use very tight keys
and a taper lock onto the shaft.
Are we talking about an exotic drive using gears? Fraught with peril from a backlash
standpoint. Is it at least a harmonic drive?
Rack and pinion? Very low precision. Try to preload the pinion on the rack and hope for
the best.
If you have a servo related system, don't overlook the possibility that the tuning needs
tweaking or that the encoder has some degree of mechanical backlash relative to the
motor for some reason even though the motor has no backlash with respect to the screw
itself. Perhaps the mounting for the encoder is loose in some way. If the encoder mounting
can move or flex, it will affect the feedback it is giving about what the motor is doing, and
this can be a phantom source of backlash even when all else is working well!
Machine Flexure and Rigidity
If you are feeding too much force in for the machine, something is going to flex. It could be
your ballscrew, the mounting for the angular contact bearings, the ball not mountings, or
some essential part of the machine that is supporting things. If you get hunting backlash
below a thousandth, all this has to be considered. Try some lower speeds for your axis
travel and see what effect that has--less force is fed into the system at lower speeds. Try
to devise some ways to measure flexure with your dial indicator. There's a weak link
somewhere there and you need to find it and beef it up.
I read an account one time of a machine that had a cracked ballscrew mount. The
suspicion was the riggers cracked it moving the machine. It took a lot of force to make the
crack flex, so this fellow took quite a while to track down his backlash, but he eventually
did find it.
Best of Luck on this Part!
I know, it's a finicky and painstaking business, and a bit of a black art. Try to follow the
path of the forces: the motor turns the ballscrew, which is held in position by its bearings.
The ballscrews moves the ballnut, which is held by it's mounting bracket. Said mounting
bracket transfers force to the axis to be moved, and that axis is travelling in ways that
apply forces to keep it aligned along a proper and true direction of travel. If all of those
things are happily working in concert with the minimum required forces, life is good. If
they're fighting amongst one another, that fight is force applied to no good end, and it
could well result in backlash. Your job is to track down those little fights and put a stop to
them. Approach it as a systematic program of tests and experimentation. Keep a
notebook. Measure everything. Try it as many ways as you can think of. Try to think
logically about what it all means and how it all fits together. At some point, you will decide
things are good enough. Be happy at that stage!






Axis Backlash
Axis Backlash is a loss of motion when a machine's Axis reverses direction. It is also referred to as
lost motion, turn around, and reversal error. Reversal error is detrimental to accuracy. This article is
about where it comes from, methods of measurement, and methods for correcting it. The article's
application and terminolgy applies to modern CNC Machine Tools.
By Bruce A. Johanningmeier
From The Drive Train?
Lost motion coming from a drive train is defined as a loss of motion between the components of the
drive train when the direction of motion is reversed. It is the result of things like loose drive train
member bolts, gear backlash, loose gear belt, worn ballscrew assembly, loose ballscrew end support,
and a loose drive key or keyway.

Less common lost motion from the drive train is that which occurs from excessive friction. It is the
result of things like lack of lubrication in the drive train components or the guideway system, a
component is set too tight, or components are rubbing that should have clearance.

Excessive friction in the guideway system and ballscrew nut can lead to ballscrew windup, or twist.
Lost motion occurs upon reversal from first the unwind and then the windup again before the Axis can
move. The further away the Axis is from the drive end, the more the lost motion.

Lost motion from excessive friction is more likely to occur when a rotary encoder in the servo motor is
the position feedback device. There will be more on encoders later in the article. Also, excessive
friction should increase the load on the servo motor which would be indicated by higher current, or
amperage.
Measuring Backlash at the Axis Level
Backlash is measured at different locations for different reasons. The image to
the right shows backlash measured at the Axis level. Backlash is commonly measured and corrected
at the Axis level. However for highly precision machines, that would be a narrowed down location.
Narrowed down for troubleshooting to find the source of the backlash or to see the results of
corrections made at that level. The most meaningful measurement location on those machines would
be in the Workzone discussed later in this article. The reason for that has to do with the machine's
hysteresis.
Machine Hysteresis
Machine hysteresis concerns the rigidity of the machine when the structure of the machine is put
under a load. The load can be any type of force, including friction. Any force opposing an axes
direction of motion contributes to lost motion to some degree.

Lost motion from hysteresis can be the result of angular changes in the structure. The error is
perportional to the distance from the origin of the angular change. The greater the distance, the
greater the error. That's the reason why the Axis Level is not considered the ultimate measurement
location for backlash other than for troubleshooting and repairs. What happens at the Axis Level is
less likely to precisely represent the end product as well as the Workzone.

Precision Machine Tool, Coordinate Measuring Machine, and other equipment manufacturers are
taking steps to measure, improve, and compensate for machine hysteresis to a much greater degree
today than in the past. Another load or force that concerns machine hysteresis and lost motion is
gravity.
Gravity
Everything on earth has a huge force applied to it all the time. That force is gravity. It's easier to go
down than it is to go up. Of course that applies to vertical axes too! Reversal errors arise with vertical
axes due to the effect of gravity. How much error depends upon a number of factors. One of the
factors is the method used to compensate for gravity. That factor is the counterbalance system.

Counterbalancing a vertical Axis to reduce reversal error is a very tricky business because no method
to date is perfect. The heavier the Axis the more complicated the effort. As an example, let's say the
machine has a hydraulic counterbalance system. The type of system we are referring to has two
pressure settings. One is the Axis holding and moving up setting either coming from a pressure
compensating pump adjustment or a reducing valve. The the other setting is the Axis moving down
pressure setting coming from a relief valve.

The downward pressure setting has to be higher than the holding/upward pressure setting due to the
nature of the relief valve. The relief valve provides a path for the hydraulic fluid to excape back to the
tank. The relief valve must have a higher setting than the holding/upward pressure or it will constantly
relieve fluid creating a pressure drop over the valve. The constant pressure drop in turn generates
heat which reduces the lifespan of the hydraulic fluid, components, and wastes energy.

The difference in pressure settings between moving the Axis up and down causes forces or loads
which cannot exactly balance for gravity because gravity is one constant value not two. That load
imposed against the machine structure can cause backlash due to hysteresis. It depends upon the
rigidity of the structure.

Actual cases of this with one medium size and one large CNC Machine are, one with 0.002" and the
other with 0.003" reversal error. Both manufacturers of those machines said, there is nothing that can
be done about it, it is the normal amount for that machine.
Measuring Lost Motion in the Workzone
At some point, the accuracy lost with backlash could
become a problem in the quality of the end product. Of course, improving it in a manner which will
benefit the end product the most is optimum. The most beneficial backlash measurement location to
the end product's quality is where the end product is being worked, in the Workzone!

The image on the right demonstrates the measurement being taken in the Workzone using a dial
indicator and a magnetic base. The magnetic base is in the same location that the parts are
machined at and the indicator probe is on the spindle where the work is performed on the part.

Measuring in the Workzone for accuracy relative to the quality of the end product doesn't just apply to
backlash. It also applies to measuring for positioning errors, straightness, squareness, and
performance evaluation.
Position Feedback Devices
With the advent of CNC came positioning feedback devices. These devices feedback the axes
positions to the CNC Controller and the controller adjusts those positions as dictated by the part
program. With modern CNC Machines these are typically encoders. There are linear
encoders sometimes called scales and there are rotary encoders. What does this have to do with
backlash?

The relationship between encoders and backlash has to do with the type of encoder and how it's
attached to the machine. Take a linear Axis for example. A linear Axis just travels straight back and
forth. Commonly, this linear motion is generated by a rotary motion in which a servo motor turns a
ballscrew. If the position feedback device for that Axis is arotary encoder in the motor and there is any
backlash in the drive train between that encoder and the Axis on the other end, then the CNC
Controller can send out positioning commands unaware of the backlash. The Axis will come up short
of the targeted position every time it reverses directions.

On the other hand, if the Axis uses a linear encoder for the position feedback device, the CNC
Controller may still be completely unaware of the backlash in the drive train but not come up short
upon axes reversals at all. This is because of the way that a linear encoder is attached to the
machine. The scale part of the encoder is bolted to the Axis Base which is stationary, and the part
that is reads the scale is attached to the Axis. It is not dependant upon the drive train's integrity at all
because it is not attached to the drive train as in the case of the rotary encoder. The only amount of
reversal error that will show up in the case of the linear encoder comes from either hysteresis or the
amount of one resolution of the encoder. Modern encoders can have a resolution of less than one
micron.
Software Compensation
Software compensation is a feature of many modern day CNC Controllers. As far as backlash is
concerned, it is used to compensate for normal hysteresis and minor wear. It simply involves inputting
the appropriate value for the reversal error into the control's parameter for that. From then on the
CNC Controller will make up for the lost motion upon Axis reversals without reflecting it as a position
change.
Summary
There's a lot more to Axis reversal errors than that mentioned here! There are different instruments
for measuring it and more details of the causes and effects. It is a good size study all by itself and yet,
it is just one tiny area among many in the world of CNC Machine Technology.





\
Machine tool backlash adjustment compensation parameters

What is Backlash?
One of the main reasons your CNC machine loses its accuracy, is due to- you got it-
backlash! Backlash is the mechanical loss of motion that can result from a
mechanical or electrical problem. Basically backlash is the amount the screw has to
rotate when reversing directions before the table or turret start to move.
How is backlash compensated?
Backlash can be tested with indicators, lasers, ballbars or other measuring devices
to determine how much motion is lost when an axis reverses direction. This value is
entered in the machines parameters, so when an axis changes direction, it
compensates the amount in the parameter to determine when the axis will physically
move. The value of the parameter is usually in millimeter. Below, are the common
parameters and program to run backlash test. Remember to Write down original
values first!!!
Also, you may want to set the backlash comp first to zero to get the total amount of
backlash to make sure it is not excessive. Reading should usually be below .008.
Anything above .010 you might want to consider taking a closer look.

Where is the backlash coming from?
Make sure the bearings are pre-loaded properly. Run the each axis separately in a
rapid program. Does it sound like a low growl? Compared to the other ones. If yes
the bearings are bad. The problem could be any or a combination of the following-
ballscrew or nut, bearings, ways, linear guides, belts, gears, coupling devices, and
key stock.
NOTES: Write down original values in parameters first. Parameter value of 10
usually means .010mm on Fanuc controls. Other manufacturers may be different.
1mm=.0394 Also, some controls have a rapid and feed backlash, feed is usually all
that needs to be adjusted.
Backlash Parameters
Fanuc
0 control X=535,Y=536, Z=537, 4th=538
3 control X=53, Y/Z=54, Z=55
6 control X=115, Y/Z=116, Z/3rd=117, 4th=118
10,11,12,15,16,18, 21,16I,18I,21I XYZ=1851
Mitsubishi -2012
YASNAC
MX3 X=6400, Y=6401, Z=6402
LX3 X=6282, Y/Z=6283, Z=6284
Backlash explanation Good article
http://www.maintenanceresources.com/Reference Library/ezine/backlash.htm
Backlash Check Program
(do not use hand wheel)
Lathe
G1 G98 G53 F10.
U.010
U-.010(record reading)
U-.010
U.010 (record reading)
M99
How to check backlash
The difference is your backlash.
Note: the larger the distance between moments during this test the more accurate it will be.
Sometimes an axis must be jarred to make up excessive backlash and see more reliable results
Use with plunger style indicator and mount closest in-line with the ballscrew so, if there is any
looseness or play in the gibs, this will have the least effect on your indicator readings. It is also a good
idea to check farthest away from the center of the ballscrew to determine how much movement is
coming from the gibs or linear guides. Change U or W values in the NC program to smaller values if
you would like to use tenths indicator. For horizontal and vertical machines change the program
above to use XYZ moves and use G91 and remove G98. G53 is a command that uses the machine
coordinate for position. Your machine may not use this so you may need to alter it to fit your machine.
You may also use the step mode to perform the test, but not the handwheel. Perform test in single
block. Indicator must be firmly mounted, including stems to mag base in-line and retracted closest to
the mag base for best results. If comparing with tenths indicator they should both read the same. If
not you may see problems with stick slip effect. See below to do quick checks to determine this










Setting backlash fadal
Narbo, listen to Walt, he's one smart guy when it comes to this stuff. I do believe that Walt's word isn't
backlash, but "lost motion". You are trying to comp for wear in the screw, but it might not be the screw.

You need to figure out where your "lost motion" is before you can fix it. You need to look at all the places
it can happen. Start at the table, its attached to a ball nut, I had a little lathe where the bolts that held the
ball nut to the table(gang machine) had come loose, it can happen. Then you have the ballscrew/ball nut
interface(this is where you are assuming your problem is), down the line into the thrust bearings. Are they
trashed?, are the bearings themselves sliding around inside of their pocket(crappy aluminum carrier),
indicator on the end of the screw will tell you if this is the area where you are having a problem. Now you
get to a Fadal problem, the carrier for the thrust bearings and motor are shit, is it flexing or somehow
worn? Another Fadal problem, the couplings from motor to screw. The way they attach from the screw to
the coupling is crap, the motor to the other coupling is crap and the actual coupling itself is horrible. When
I can go down the street to the hardware store and buy a new coupling because the farmers are using
them on their tractors, its crap.

There are tons of places you can lose position, get out the tenth indicator and go to town.

On the actual setting of backlash, Z is a pain in the ass, with the weight of the head, its tough, I have no
advice, it just sucks and I don't even think it does any good. For the XY, you're running out and back to
the indicator. Think about that for a minute, you have direction changes and two compensations, no
matter what, you should end up back in the same spot.
To check the backlash, you need to move in a way that the control is only going to comp once.

By setting your BL to 0, you can get a good fairly accurate baseline by coming up to your indicator, and
then pulsing out in tenths and counting.

The way I do it is the same as the book does, except I put the indicator in a base on the table and use a
gage pin in the spindle.

Here is my program for the X axis.

%
O1000(X AXIS BACKLASH) <-- zero the indicator, this reading means nothing
G91
G1Y-1.F50. <--- moves to the side of the gage pin
X1.
X-1. <--- control will comp here(but you haven't taken a reading yet)
Y.9
Y.1F5. <--- lower feed since I don't want to slam indicator into the pin.
M0 <---- Indicator reading #1
X-1.F50.
X1. <--- control will comp here
M30 <--- reading #2
%
%

reading 1 minus reading 2 is your backlash. The worst part is that especially with a box way machine,
changing your feed rate will change the readings.

BL COMMAND
Backlash, Using the
BL Command
Backlash occcurs when the tool changes direction. It is compensating for
mechanical play in the ball screw, giving the screw an extra amount of turn
getting the balls to touch the opposite lead of the thread before the table starts
to move.
1) To see the backlash setting in the control, type BL, in command mode,
then press the ENTER button. (The factory setting is on the inside of the
pendant door.)
2) To enter a backlash setting, go to command mode, type BL, axis #,
amount of backlash in center of table, amount at negative (-) side of tabel,
amount at positive (+) side of table, press ENTER button.
EXAMPLE: BL,1,3,5,1 This will enter for the X axis a backlash setting of .0003 for the
center of the table, .0005 for the left side and .0001 for the right side.
Note: Depending on the tool location on the table, one of the three backlash
setting will be used.
The procedure below is an Example of determining the backlash compensation
required for an axis. The X axis will be used for this Example. After the CS, Cold
Start, command, do not return to the last home position.
1) From the command mode type BL,1,0,0,0. This will zero the backlash
compensation for the entire length of the X axis.
2) Place a surface indicator in a tool holder and jog the needle to Z-.1 and X.1
from the X positive side of a block in the center of the table. From the
command mode type SETH then press the ENTER button. The face of the
indicator should be toward the right side of the machine.
3) Insert the following program into memory:
N1 G91 G1 X-.1 F30.
N2 G4 P66000
N3 Z.25 G5
N4 X-.1
N5 X.1
N6 Z-.25
N7 G4 P66000
N8 X.1 G5
N9 M2