How to Build a House

Edited by MA, BR, Tom Viren, Jack Herrick and 54 others

Home is what is most needed in one's existence, and can range from being as simple
as an animal skin tent or shelter of branches and leaves, to a multi-story palace with
dozens of bedrooms, bathrooms, and other special spaces. Building even a basic house
is beyond the usual scope of a wikiHow article, but here are some general guidelines,
and a basic list of steps involved in constructing a house.
EditSteps
1.
1
Select a location for your house. There are many areas to consider, but here are some things
you should look at:
Climate. Special considerations must be made for building in flood, hurricane,
intense heat, frigid cold, and other extreme weather and climatic conditions.
Ground stability. Houses built on shifting sand, mucky soil, or other unstable
earth will likely fail over a short period of time unless they are built on special foundations or
pilings.
Availability of utilities. If you intend to have electric power, potable water,
telephone, and other conveniences, make sure these utility providers offer them at your
location.
Community infrastructure. If you plan to raise children, make sure good quality
schools are available. Check to see if you are in a police jurisdiction to protect you from crime,
look at the distance you will have to travel to acquire basic commodities, and whether medical
help is nearby.
Available building materials. Homes can be built from rough lumber (or even
logs), compressed earth blocks, or modern materials like aluminum, glass, and vinyl. Find out
what is available in your area, and what the cost will be.
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2.
2
Select the property on which you are going to build and purchase it. This may be a
tremendous hurdle, depending on the cost, and your available funds. Building a house is an
expensive process, but purchasing suitable property is also a major investment.
3.
3
Design your home. Architects and engineers have special training and years of experience in
designing houses, and are necessary for most building and zoning jurisdiction code
requirements, but even if you contract their services, ultimately, the house you build will be built
for you, so you should be involved closely in the design process. Here are some things to think
about in the design stage of the project:
Number of bedrooms. For a family house where the possibility of additions exists,
remember it is simpler to add a room during initial construction than to remodel or build an
addition later. If you only need 2 bedrooms at present, an extra room might be used for an
office, storage, or even left unfinished and unfurnished until such time as it is needed.
Number of bathrooms. In practical terms, one bathroom can suffice in almost any
circumstances, but if the house is for multiple people, two makes life much easier. Having two or
more bathrooms will also increase the resale value in the convenience minded home buyer's
mind.
Utility area(s). For family life, having a laundry room, and possibly even a garage
can be a real help in managing day to day chores.
Kitchen. Although there may appear to be a trend to depend more on
prepackaged, take out, or fast food for meals, many people are rediscovering the joy of cooking,
and nothing contributes more to this enjoyable pass-time, hobby, and necessary activity than
having a spacious, well designed kitchen.
Special function rooms. Consider if your lifestyle requires rooms suitable for
special functions, such as formal dining, office space, a library, or a nursery.
4.
4
Have the property surveyed and the footprint of the house located. This is not absolutely
necessary, especially if you are building on a large parcel of land, but if there is any doubt about
the property lines, have this done to assure you are not encroaching on a neighbor's property,
or into the municipality's Building Setbacks when you build. Give a little thought in positioning
your home on these things:
View, in relationship to the land. If you are building a home with large windows in
a living room, consider facing these toward the most appealing view.
Windows and how they light the interior. Kitchens may benefit the most from
exterior light, so think about what time a ray of sunshine in the kitchen will offer the best results.
Late afternoon may be cooking and dish washing time, so it may be best to orient the kitchen
towards the west to take advantage. Larger windows on the south face of your house will also
help heat the house through solar gain in colder climates.
Water Drainage. Be aware of how surface water (rain, snow melt, drainage from
seasonal springs) moves across the building site. It is critical to keep water away from your
home, especially in colder climates because of freezing, but also to keep a basement dry and to
lessen the chance that you will have damp wood. This is an invite to many insects, like termites
- in any climate. Simple swales (shallow, sculpted ditches - often grassy) will go a long way to
controlling surface water drainage.
Accessing your home. On large parcels, especially, you will need to ascertain the
route for a usable driveway if you depend on a car for transportation. Look at any low area that
would become impassable in winter mud or heavy summer rain, how installing driveway will
effect the landscape, and whether a driveway will be in conflict with underground utilities. Pay
particular attention to the way surface water will drain off the property. Every effort should be
made so that water drains off and away from the driveway. This may require the placement of
culverts (pipes) under the driveway to avoid puddling along its sides.
5.
5
Acquire permits for construction. A building permit is a basic requirement in many areas,
particularly for permanent construction, and you may also need the following to comply with
local codes and zoning requirements:
A septic tank permit.
An electrical permit.
A plumbing permit.
A mechanical (HVAC, or air conditioning) permit.
You may also find you are required to apply for and receive an environmental
and/or impact permit. (Having the house location marked prior to obtaining your permits will help
to work details out in the environmental permitting process).
6.
6
Decide how much of the actual construction you will do yourself. Building a house involves
several specific trades, or crafts, and to ensure quality work, it is usually better to have trained
craftsmen perform the work. For the purpose of this article, we will simply continue in a step by
step process assuming you are doing your work yourself. Here is a list of typical trades involved
in home-building:
Sitework. These are the people who will clear and grade the land.
Foundation/slab includes form carpenters, laborers, and concrete finishers.
Framers. Rough carpentry: frame up the walls, install the trusses (or stick-framed
rafters), must be plumb (vertical) and squared.
Weathering in: Sheathing, roofing, exterior doors and windows.
Bricklayers (siding installers, wood, composite or vinyl).
Electricians.
Plumbers.
Drywall hangers /finishers.
Cabinet makers.
Heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) installers.
Insulators.
Trim, finish carpenters.
Painters .
Flooring installers: Carpet, hardwood, tile.
7.
7
Set up building lines. This means putting either batter boards or corner stakes at each corner
of the house foundation to level and square up the foundation. Use a transit or building level to
make sure the building lines are level and square, and check by measuring corner to corner,
diagonally, to make sure the walls and corners are "square", for right angles.
8.
8
Install your chosen type of floor. See below for two common types, slab on gradeor pier and
beam/joist construction. Make sure you have installed plumbing rough insso that they are
accurately placed for waste and vent lines and possibly potable water supply before slab is
poured.
Slab on grade construction steps:
Form up footing.
Lay foundation with rebar (including concrete block if any).
Install plumbing rough-in.
Backfill, grade the subgrade, and compact.
Pretreat for termites (if required or desirable).
Install moisture barrier.
Install reinforcing material in slab-floor (if required, either welded wire
mesh or rebar).
Place and finish concrete .
For off grade (above grade) construction.
Layout and install piers (or piling).
Install floor joist framing system.
Install subfloor/finish floor decking.
2.
9
Frame the walls of your house. You will need to lay out the wall lines on the floor, beginning at
one corner, marking your bottom plate (rat sill) to attach to anchor bolts (for slab on grade
construction), and marking the location of doors, windows, and interior wall corners on the sill.
Be sure to use special metal connectors/straps at the floor and tops of walls as required by code
(for storm and earthquake proofing). Use tees at wall intersections, substantial headers for
openings in load bearing walls, and allow space at each rough opening for the feature to be
installed, aligned and shimmed there to be fit correctly (doors, windows, etc.).
3.
10
Plumb the walls and brace them securely. Install sheathing if required, otherwise, use sheet
metal straps to diagonally brace all exterior wall corners. Make sure all studs (vertical framing
members, usually 2 inch by 4 inch nominal lumber, graded standard or better) are securely
nailed in place, straight and square to the wall line.
4.
11
Lay out the marks for setting your roof trusses. You may optionally want tostick frame your
roof, cutting and installing rafters and ceiling joists yourself (especially for useable attic space),
but commonly prefabricated trusses are engineered with lighter, smaller lumber with much
bracing, for maximum strength, but the prevalent bracing generally eliminates usable attic space
because trusses use braced (trussed) 2x4 lumber instead of much heavier stick spanning
lumber which must use 2x6, 2x8 and 2x10, etc. to span rooms (to be strong enough for attic
floor spans), but trusses do speedup construction considerably. There are some trusses for attic
with high-pitched roofs and dormers but they are quite different in design.
5.
12
Set each truss in the correct location, usually on 24 inch centers (stick is usually 16 inch
centers since it has much less bracing). Attach hurricane clips or other connectors to secure
them, plumb the center of each truss, and temporarily support them with a rat run bracing near
the peak.
6.
13
Install gable diagonal bracing (for a roof with gable ends) to prevent the roof frame
from racking/leaning when you install the roof decking. For a hip roof, install king
rafters and hip rafters, being careful to keep the adjacent planes of the roof consistent and
straight.
7.
14
Nail a sub-facia board connecting the ends of each truss or rafter, and build
any outlookers to support the gable overhang (flying rafter which is not sitting on the top
plate) and gable facia boards, if used.
8.
15
Deck the trusses or rafters with plywood, oriented strand lumber, or nominal lumber
such as 1 by 6 inch, tongue and groove boards. In areas where high winds or snow-loading
(accumulation) is possible, make sure the roof decking is secured and structurally able to
withstand these severe forces and conditions. Use appropriate bracing and fasteners for this
scope of work.
9.
16
Use 15 or 30 pound roofing felt (tar paper) nailed with simplex nails, roofing tacks, or
plastic capped felting tacks to secure it. Begin felting the decking at the lower edge, allowing
it to hang over slightly, and overlap subsequent layers to keep water from getting under this
moisture barrier.
10.
17
Install the exterior siding and exterior features such as windows and doors. Many
locations require some type of flashing to prevent water from penetrating the edge of these, but
you may be able to seal them sufficiently with caulking if it is permitted and you are able. Your
house is now dried/weathered in.
11.
18
Install your final roof. You may choose painted sheet metal panels, rolled steel formed to
lengths needed on site, or shingles, terra cotta tiles, or other materials, depending on your
preference, costs, and products available at your location. Consider ridge vents, attic exhaust
fans, vented dormers, and other architectural details which can increase the comfort of your
house while decreasing cooling costs in hot climates.
12.
19
Rough in electrical devices. Most likely, there will be electrical outlets, light fixtures, and
special wiring required for large appliances like water heaters, stoves, and air conditioning.
Install the main electrical panel box, and any sub-panels your design requires, and install wiring
from these to each device. Commonly, #12 Romex cable is used for ordinary lighting and outlet
circuits, and nail-in electrical boxes are attached to the wall studs, with the front edge protruding
to allow for the finished wall material to be flush.
13.
20
Install pipes for potable water, waste drains, and drain vents in walls.These can be capped
off to trim out after the walls are finished, especially if the local codes require pressure testing
before finishing may be done.
14.
21
Install HVAC (air conditioning and heat) ductwork, air handlers, and refrigerant piping if
required. Stub ductwork out for return air and supply air registers. Insulate ductwork if it is not
pre-insulated, and seal all joints. Fasten ductwork as needed to prevent movement.
15.
22
Insulate walls where it is required, warmer climates may use much less
insulation. Depending on the climate, you will want to get location-specific guidelines for this
area of work. Insulate the spaces between ceiling joists, also. Walls are usually insulated with a
minimum R-value of 13, ceilings with a minimum of 19, but as much as 30, or even more for
lowering fuel and utility usage.
16.
23
Install your ceilings. Gypsum wall board (drywall or sheetrock) is a common material used for
this application, but there are other products including accoustical ceiling tiles, beaded plywood
paneling (to simulate planking), and even natural wood lumber (probably thin outlaying panels)
that are used for this application.
17.
24
Install the bath tub, shower enclosure, and any other large plumbing fixtures which will
interface with finished walls. Make sure plumbing rough-ins are correctly located, and pipes
are protected and securely anchored.
18.
25
Install the wall board or paneling on interior walls. Gypsum wall board (panels are jacked
3/8 inch above the floor to avoid moisture from mopping or spills, etc.), or wood or masonite
paneling. There are many interior wall products available, so the installation process will depend
on the material used. Apply finish to gypsum wall board, taping and skimming/floating all joints
to an acceptable level of finish. Finish/texture any ceilings during this step if applicable.
19.
26
Put up any trim you are using for baseboards, crown mouldings, and corners, and install
your interior doors and jambs. If you are using natural wood trim and mouldings, you will want
to paint the walls prior to this step. Prefinishing the trim before installing will make the final finish
easier, but any nail-holes will probably still need attention after installation.
20.
27
Caulk, paint, and install wall coverings on any walls that require it. Most likely, you will
want to prime wall board, then apply a finish coat. Use a paint roller where possible, cutting-
in with brushes around appertanances and in corners.
21.
28
Trim out the electrical devices, install lights and other fixtures, and install breakers in
panel boxes if they were not pre-installed.
22.
29
Install cabinets and other mill work. You will probably need at least basic kitchen storage
cabinets and a bathroom vanity cabinet for a sink, other cabinets may include a bar, upper
storage cabinets, and lower units with drawers for kitchen utensils and supplies.
23.
30
Install plumbing fixtures, trim them out, and caulk and seal where needed.
24.
31
Install flooring. Note that for carpet floors, base boards are installed prior to flooring, leaving
3/8 inch for the carpet to tuck underneath it. For hardwood or composite floors, this trim is
installed after the floor is finished.
25.
32
Install appliances, have the utilities turned on, and check details.
26.
33
Decorate your house, and move in.
A Step-by-Step Guide to the Home Building
Process
By Susan Bady
Here's what to expect during the major phases of construction
Building your new home is exciting, especially when you understand how the process
works. The following overview outlines the typical steps in the construction of a home
and will help keep you abreast of what happens at key stages.
Keep in mind that the homebuilding process may vary from region to region and builder
to builder, especially if youre building an elaborate custom home. Be sure to ask your
builder about his or her specific policies and procedures.
! Prepare site and pour foundation" Often, site preparation and foundation work are
performed by the same crew, but this may not be the case with a wooded lot. sing a
backhoe and a bulldo!er, the crew clears the site of rocks, debris and trees for the
house and, if applicable, the septic system. The crew levels the site, puts up wooden
forms to serve as a template for the foundation, and digs the holes and trenches.
"ootings #structures where the house interfaces with the earth that supports it$ are
installed. %f your home is going to have a well, it will be dug at this point.
%f the home has a full basement, the hole is dug, the footings are formed and poured,
and the foundation walls are formed and poured. %f its slab&on&grade, the footings are
dug, formed and poured' the area between them is leveled and fitted with utility runs
#e.g. plumbing drains and electrical chases$' and the slab is poured.
Once concrete is poured into the holes and trenches, it will need time to cure. (uring
this period, there will be no activity on the construction site.
)fter the concrete is cured, the crew applies a waterproofing membrane to the
foundation walls' installs drains, sewer and water taps and any plumbing that needs to
go into the first&floor slab or basement floor' and backfills excavated dirt into the hole
around the foundation wall.
#$SP%&'#($ )!" *hen the curing process is complete, a city inspector visits the site to
make sure foundation components are up to code and installed properly. This
inspection may be repeated depending on the type of foundation #slab, crawl space or
basement$. +our builder will then remove the forms and begin coordinating step ,, the
framing phase.
* &omplete rough framing" The floor systems, walls and roof systems are completed
#collectively known as the shell or skeleton of the house$. -lywood or oriented strand
board #O.B$ sheathing is applied to the exterior walls and roof, and windows and
exterior doors are installed. The sheathing is then covered with a protective barrier
known as a house wrap' it prevents li/uid water from infiltrating the structure, while
allowing water vapor to escape. This reduces the likelihood of mold and wood rot.
+ &omplete rough plumbing, electrical and H-A&" Once the shell is finished, siding
and roofing can be installed. )t the same time, the electrical and plumbing contractors
start running pipes and wires through the interior walls, ceilings and floors. .ewer lines
and vents, as well as water supply lines for each fixture, are installed. Bathtubs and
one&piece shower0tub units are put in place at this point because theres more room to
maneuver large, heavy ob1ects.
(uctwork is installed for the heating, ventilation and air&conditioning #23)4$ system,
and possibly the furnace. 23)4 vent pipes are installed through the roof, and insulation
is installed in the floors, walls and ceilings.
)fter the roofing goes on, the house is considered 5dried in.6 The electrician then installs
receptacles for outlets, lights and switches and runs wires from the breaker panel to
each receptacle. *iring for telephones, cable T3 and music systems is included in this
work.
7ote that 23)4 ducts and plumbing are usually installed before wiring, because its
easier to run wires around pipes and ducts than vice versa.
#$SP%&'#($S *, + and ." 8ough framing, plumbing and electrical and mechanical
systems are inspected for compliance with building codes. 9ost likely these will be
three different inspections. )t the very least, the framing inspection will be conducted
separately from the electrical0mechanical inspections.
)t this stage, drywall #also known as plasterboard, wallboard or gypsum board$ is
delivered to the building site. .heetrock:, a registered trademark of .; 4orporation,
is sometimes used as a generic term for drywall.
. #nstall insulation" %nsulation plays a key role in creating a more comfortable,
consistent indoor climate while significantly improving a homes energy efficiency. One
of the most important /ualities of insulation is its thermal performance or 8&value, which
indicates how well the material resists heat transfer. 9ost homes are insulated in all
exterior walls, as well as the attic and any floors that are located above unfinished
basements or crawl spaces.
The most common types of insulation used in new homes are fiberglass, cellulose and
foam. (epending on the region and climate, your builder may also use mineral wool
#otherwise known as rock wool or slag wool$' concrete blocks' foam board or rigid foam'
insulating concrete forms #%4"s$' sprayed foam' and structural insulated panels #.%-s$.
Blanket insulation, which comes in batts or rolls, is typical in new&home construction. .o
is loose&fill and blown&in insulation, which is made of fiberglass, cellulose or mineral&
wool particles. )nother insulation option, li/uid foam, can be sprayed, foamed&in&place,
in1ected or poured. *hile it costs more than traditional batt insulation, li/uid foam has
twice the 8&value per inch and can fill the smallest cavities, creating an effective air
barrier.
"iberglass and mineral&wool batts and rolls are usually installed in side walls, attics,
floors, crawl spaces, cathedral ceilings and basements. 9anufacturers often attach a
facing such as kraft paper or foil&kraft paper to act as a vapor barrier and0or air barrier.
%n areas where the insulation will be left exposed, such as basement walls, the batts
sometimes have a special flame&resistant facing.
/ &omplete drywall and interior textures0 start exterior finishes" (rywall is hung
and taped so the seams between the boards arent visible, and drywall texturing #if
applicable$ is completed. The primer coat of paint is also applied after taping is
complete. 4ontractors begin installing exterior finishes such as brick, stucco, stone and
siding.
1 2inish interior trim0 install exterior dri3eways and wal4ways" %nterior doors,
baseboards, door casings, window sills, moldings, stair balusters and other decorative
trim are installed, along with cabinets, vanities and fireplace mantels and surrounds.
*alls get a finish coat of paint and are wallpapered where applicable.
;enerally, exterior driveways, walkways and patios are formed at this stage. 9any
builders prefer to wait until the end of the pro1ect before pouring the driveway because
heavy e/uipment #such as a drywall delivery truck$ can damage concrete. But some
builders pour the driveway as soon as the foundation is completed so that when
homeowners visit the construction site, they wont get their shoes muddy.
5 #nstall hard-surface flooring and countertops0 complete exterior
grading" 4eramic tile, vinyl and wood flooring are installed as well as countertops.
<xterior finish grading is completed to ensure proper drainage away from the home and
prepare the yard for landscaping.
6 2inish mechanical trims0 install bathroom fixtures" =ight fixtures, outlets and
switches are installed and the electrical panel is completed. 23)4 e/uipment is
installed and registers completed. .inks, toilets and faucets are put in place.
7 #nstall mirrors, shower doors and finish flooring0 finish exterior
landscaping"9irrors, shower doors and carpeting are installed, and final cleanup takes
place. Trees, shrubs and grass are planted and other exterior landscaping completed.
#$SP%&'#($ )/" ) building&code official completes a final inspection and issues a
certificate of occupancy #4.O.$. %f any defects are found during this inspection, a follow&
up inspection may be scheduled to ensure that theyve been corrected.
!8 2inal wal4through" +our builder will walk you through your new home to ac/uaint
you with its features and the operation of various systems and components, and explain
your responsibilities for maintenance and upkeep as well as warranty coverage and
procedures. This is often referred to as a pre&settlement walkthrough. %ts also an
opportunity to spot items that need to be corrected or ad1usted, so be attentive and
observant. <xamine the surfaces of countertops, fixtures, floors and walls for possible
damage. .ometimes disputes arise because the homeowner discovers a gouge in a
countertop after move&in, and theres is no way to prove whether it was caused by the
builders crew or the homeowners movers.
A 2ew 9ords about #nspections" +our new home will be inspected periodically during
the course of construction. %n addition to mandated inspections for code compliance,
your builder may conduct /uality checks at critical points in the process. #%n the story
above, we point out when these inspections typically take place.$ The idea is to catch as
many potential problems as possible before construction is finished, though some
issues may not surface until youve lived in the home for a period of time.
Talk to your builder early on about attending inspections, with or without your real&estate
agent. <ven if your presence is not re/uired, its an opportunity to learn more about
whats behind the walls of your new home and how everything works. %f youre planning
to hire your own inspector to do an additional review of the home, notify your builder
prior to the start of construction.
"or safety as well as logistical reasons, builders discourage customers from dropping in
unannounced at the construction site. %f youd like to pay a visit, be sure to arrange it in
advance. 4hances are your builder will conduct regular walkthroughs to bring you up to
speed on the progress of the work.