Grinding Lathe Tools On A Belt Sander - Part 2 - MachinistBlog

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Grinding Lathe Tools on a Belt
Sander Part 2
By Mikey on August 30, 2011
Usi ng ti p geometry
Here is a table that presents the table angles we need to set
when we grind standard lathe tools. Note that the headings at
the top of each column eliminate the word angle after each
heading but otherwise matches the diagram above. The front
relief (angle) in the table is the same as the end relief angle in
the diagram above. The angles here are very important
starting points for modifying tools. If you simply wish to grind
grinding. For example, when grinding a tool for aluminum you
will angle the table of your grinder to 12 degrees and then
grind the side; doing so will create a side relief angle of 12
degrees (your table setting) and the side cutting edge angle
(dictated by the angle you hold the tool at as you grind the
side) at the same time. You then reset the table to 8 degrees
and as you grind the end the table angle creates the 8 degree
end relief angle as you shape the end cutting edge angle at the
same time. You then reset the table to 16 degrees and as you
hold the tool at a 35 degree angle (to the belt) you feed the
tool straight into the grinder to cut the top face; doing so cuts
the side rake at 16 degrees while creating the desired 35
degree back rake at the same time.
In order to alter the tip geometry of our tools to lower
cutting forces: Use the largest angle listed in the table as a
baseline, and then add about 25-40%. This works out to about
2-5 degrees higher than the largest recommended values and
your tool will work better on your little lathe without
endangering the tip excessively. While these changes may
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Grinding Lathe Tools on a Belt Sander Part 2 | MachinistBlog.com http://www.machinistblog.com/grinding-lathe-tools-on-a-belt-sander-part-2/
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seem very small and insignificant the reduction in cutting forces
they produce are anything but. The tool used for our cutting
force demonstration earlier was ground with these
conservative changes and it works well.
Keep i n mi nd that none of the ti p angl es
works i n i sol ati on.
Increasing the relief angles without changing the side rake
gives you a sharper interface at the edge so cutting forces
decrease and finishes improve but you also limit chip clearance
and lose some edge strength because the edge is not
supported as well.
Increasing side rake without altering the relief angles reduces
cutting forces even more while improving chip clearance but
finishing potential drops off a bit. Because the edge is better
supported if relief angles are not altered increasing side rake
does not sacrifice edge strength as much.
The effect of increasing back rake is not nearly as noticeable
as when altering side rake. However, increasing back rake will
tend to focus the cutting forces at the tip of the tool while
helping side rake to flow the chip out of the cut.
If you increase both the relief and side rake angles then cutting
forces plummet but the tip and edge strength is reduced a lot
more so be aware of it when the tool will experience high
cutting loads. This is less of a concern for finishing tools.
The shape of the tool has a significant impact on strength. The
more mass you have in the tip the more latitude you have with
angle changes.
Tabl e Notes:
Side rake for brass and bronze is not zero in the table but a
flat, un-ground top works well for these materials. Profiling
tools also have zero top rake. A flat rake keeps the tool
from digging into soft, grabby materials or when there is a
lot of edge contact between the tool and the work. You
dont have to grind the top but you should hone it.
Side rake is the angle that varies the most with different
materials. In fact, side rake is the key variable at that tip.
If you look at the relief angles in the table you will see that
they dont vary much between materials because clearance
on a round part is still clearance and once you have it then,
well, you have it. When you vary the side rake the included
angle of the side and end suddenly becomes more, or less,
acute. It is this alteration in included angle, also known as
the angle of keenness, which changes to accommodate
various materials. Seemingly small changes to side rake
can have a major effect on cutting forces and how the tool
cuts. Pay attention to side rake and use it to your
advantage its a major player.
Side rake for Stainless and Back Rake for Aluminum are
very aggressive. Thats a lot of steel to grind off. You may
want to look into grinding chipbreakers when grinding tools
for these specific materials. Chipbreakers break the long,
stringy and dangerous chips into smaller pieces and are
much easier to grind than the whole top of the tool. I wont
go into chipbreakers here but you should know about them.
For optimum performance you can grind a set of tools
(rougher, facing and finishing) for each material you commonly
work with. They will work far better than general purpose
tools and are worth the time it takes to make them. If you
grind them as you need them you will have a complete
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collection in no time. If you do make sets I suggest grinding
the same face of each tool before changing your table angle to
save setup time.
On the other hand, you can actually get away with less than
optimal geometry. For example, you can grind a general
purpose tool that will work on mild steel, aluminum, stainless
steel, plastics, tool steels, semi-hardened steels and brass.
The tool we will grind as an example below is one of these
general purpose tools and the tool angles used are typical for
a tool that has to cut multiple materials under varying
conditions. These tool angles are a compromise, just as the
shape of a general purpose tool is a compromise but they
work fairly well.
General purpose tools allow you to minimize the number of
tools you need to grind. For example, if you had to minimize
the number of tools in the drawer you could have a general
purpose right hand and left hand tool, a RH and LH general
purpose knife tool for facing (see the end of this discussion), a
zero-rake 60 degree threading tool and a zero-rake round
nose tool with a 1/64-1/32 nose radius (for between-
shoulders work and general cutting of brass). Add a HSS
blade-type cut off tool with a 7 degree face used in a
rear-mounted tool holder and you can handle most general
jobs in a hobby shop.
An important angle you may see that isnt in any table is called
is used with the shank positioned perpendicular to the work; in
this case, the LA is equal to the side cutting edge angle.
However, increasing or decreasing the LA of the tool to suit
your purpose works better.
Increasing LA can significantly improve finishes; for this reason
MHB recommends using the maximum LA possible as
l ong as there i s no chatter. Remember that increasing LA
also increases cutting forces because more of the side cutting
edge comes into contact with the work. The effect of this is
most readily seen on thin, flexible work pieces in the form of
chatter. On larger pieces that dont flex much a large LA can
really improve finishes.
If you develop chatter at any time, especially on thin pieces or
on hard materials try reducing the LA (move the side cutting
edge more perpendicular to the work) and things will improve.
In some cases going to a negative LA really helps, especially
on thin work or an ambitious roughing cut. The effect of
reducing LA is equivalent to reducing depth of cut and
3 of 7 2/6/2014 5:56 PM
increasing feed, which has a positive effect on reducing
chatter. Try playing with LA to further modulate cutting forces
on the lathe it can be useful.
Another term you may see is the Angle of Keenness. This is
the included angle formed by the side and top of the tool as
you look at it from the tip end of the tool. For harder materials
this angle is less acute and for softer materials it is more
acute. Back in the day, before angle tables became
widespread, machinists ground their tools with this angle: less
acute for hard stuff, more acute for soft stuff. Since the
hardness of the material being cut is accounted for by the
angles found in the angle table I ignore this angle but mention it
here for completeness. If you were paying attention, this is the
angle that changes as you alter your relief and side rake
angles. Those old guys knew what they were doing.
Lathe tool s come i n many shapes, each
right hand (cuts toward the chuck) and left hand (cuts toward
the tailstock) versions. All are used at normal turning speeds.
These tools are typically used with their shanks perpendicular
to the work but you should change their lead angles to suit the
situation. These shapes have proven themselves over time to
work very well but you are not limited to them in any way. For
example, a general purpose tool could look like the facing
tool but since we may have altered our relief and rake angles
for our tool we may want more strength in the tip. In that case
we could grind something that is halfway between a roughing
and facing tool and it would work for most operations. That is
the shape we will grind later.
When we shape a tool we are grinding the Side Cutting Edge
Angle (SCEA) and End Cutting Edge Angle (ECEA) to give us
the shape we want. Again, these angles are determined by
the angle at which you hold the tool blank at as you move it
across the grinding belt. Unless you need a specific shape,
jigs are not necessary to grind them save your money and do
it by hand.
General thi ngs to note:
Rougher: It has greater mass at the tip to handle the
cutting forces encountered with deeper cuts. It is shaped,
and used, with a shallower lead angle that allows a deeper
cut with less chance of chattering. The nose radius is
smaller than that of a finisher; 1/64 works. It cannot cut
into a square corner. The strongest of turning tools, it
allows the greatest latitude for modifying your relief and
4 of 7 2/6/2014 5:56 PM
side rake angles. For interrupted cuts when the cutting
edge is pounded hard keep your relief angles at baseline to
add strength.
Finisher: This has a delicate tip and a more generous nose
radius of up to 1/32. The rounded tip creates greater
cutting forces so it is meant for lighter cuts. It cannot cut
into a square corner. It is the weakest of shapes but
meant for light cuts so higher relief and back rake angles
work well with this tool.
Facing: Note that the angle between the side and end
cutting edges is less than 90 degrees. This allows the tool
to cut into a corner, which is a facing operation. The nose
radius can be ground smaller than 1/64 to cut a cleaner
corner. Most of the cutting action is done at the side
cutting edge (higher cutting forces) so lighter cuts are
needed. Here, you can boost side rake and keep relief
angles more conservative (25-30% range) to preserve
edge strength.
The tools in the lower row are profiling or forming tools. All
of these tools have a potentially large contact area so
cutting forces are very high; they are therefore meant to be
used with shallower depths of cut and much lower speeds.
All except the corner forming tool can be ground on a belt
sander; this tool is the only one I would use a bench grinder
for if I needed one. All of these profiling or form tools
typically have zero top rake but their relief angles are the
same as a turning tool.
Regardi ng the 60 degree threadi ng tool :
Use a 60 degree template or fishtail to grind this
accurately or your thread form will suck. Starrett sells a
good one for low cost. Basically, you grind the sides to
match the notch in the tool until you get an exact match.
Dont settle for close get it dead on.
Grind the side relief angles on both sides of the nose at
about 15 degrees for efficient cutting on a small lathe. 15
degrees is enough to cut freely but not aggressive enough
to sacrifice edge strength. Cutting loads are very high
when threading so try not to exceed this 15 degree
recommendation if you can help it.
Grind a very small flat (just visible) at the tip to keep it from
cracking off.
The top has zero rake. If you use the set-over method for
threading you can get away with a small amount (5
degrees or so) of positive side rake. Be sure to hone this
tool before using it.
For a parting tool I highly recommend you use a
blade-type or T-type tool made of HSS and grind a 7
degree (standard angle is 5 degrees) relief angle under its
tip. Best results come from using a rear mounted tool
holder to increase rigidity in your setup and using the right
blade thickness for the diameter and material you are
cutting. You can also grind a parting tool from a square
blank if you like but its tricky and a lot of work.
In Part 3, well design a general purpose tool and see how it is
ground on a belt sander. This should illustrate how all the
preceding information is used to create tools that will meet
your specific needs.
5 of 7 2/6/2014 5:56 PM
Related posts:
Grinding Lathe Tools on a Belt Sander For the New Guy
Tubalcains Lathe Bit Grinding Videos
Modifying a Craftsman 2 X 42-inch Belt Sander For Tool
Grinding
Harbor Freight 130 Belt Sander Review
Cutting Glass on the Mini-Lathe
Posted in How-To, Instructional | 3 Comments
3 comments to Gri ndi ng Lathe Tool s on a
Bel t Sander Part 2
chris prosser
September 10, 2011 at 3:30 PM | Reply
These set of posts is finally convincing me to give up
the carbide inserts. Ive never really been happy with
them and I keep doing projects with interrupted cuts, getting
impatient, and breaking them :).
It looks like Sears discontinued the 1/2 HP 2 belt sander. They
only have what they label 1/3 continuous, 2/3 peak these days.
Poking around on various knife making lists it looks like the next
step up is a grizzly at $450. Ill try my luck with the 1/3 HP
Sears on sale for $125.
What grits are you using? This place has everything from 36 to
1000 (http://www.trugrit.com/belts3.htm).
thanks for taking the time to write this all up!
chris
Mikey
Hey Chris,
I mention the belts in the last part of the article but I
usually use a 24 grit to grind bits, then an 80 grit just before
honing on a diamond stone. If I need a good finishing tool I
progress from 80 to 120, 220, 320, 400, then 600 grits. By the
time you get to 600 you have a mirror finish. Honing is then
done on a translucent Arkansas to a razors edge. For most
shop cutters this is overkill and the 80 grit and fine, then
super-fine diamond stone works well.
As for the grinder, I often see the 1/2HP Sears grinders come
up for sale cheap. I also have the 1/3HP model and would not
purchase it it doesnt have the power you need to grind tool
bits effectively. I would wait until you can find a 1/2HP model if
you can, and avoid the 1 belt models the belts are too
narrow and the platens flex excessively.
Good luck with grinding. I, too, gave up on carbide on the lathe.
The HSS and cobalt tools are worlds better, for me anyway. In
part 3, it should give you a better idea about how to grind those
tools and I hope I made it clear enough to follow; its pretty easy
to do. Let me know how it works out.
Mikey
Mikey
Sorry, Chris. I meant to say I see the 1/2HP sears
grinders come up on our local Craigslist from time to
time for low cost.
6 of 7 2/6/2014 5:56 PM
Mikey
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