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Copyright Fiberarts® magazine, Interweave Press, LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

JAN |FE B 2 0 1 0 VOLU ME 36 N U MBER 4


Features
36 | SECURITY MEASURES
by Joanne O’Sullivan
Lisa Klakulak’s handfelted and natural-dyed
accessories explore felt’s age-old association
with protection.

38 | POST-COLONIAL PARTY TIME


by Dan Bischoff
Yinka Shonibare MBE’s compelling re-creations
of gentility and decadence are elegantly tailored
to be both humorous and haunting.

44 | COMING HOME TO SUCCESS


by Sally Hansell
Natalie Chanin brings new life to a former
textile town with her clothing company based
on sustainable style.
38
46 | FIBER ART AT THE VENICE BIENNALE
by Sandra Sider
A stupendous discovery at the 2009 Venice
Biennale: Room after room was dominated
by large-scale fiber installations from around
the world.

52 | IN(TENSION)AL ENCHANTMENT
By Kathryn Bunn-Marcuse
Lisa Telford’s contemporary cedar-bark clothing
weaves together traditional materials and
techniques with intentional tensions.

46
ON THE COVER: Garment from the Alabama Chanin Spring/Summer 2010
­collection and made with cotton fabric, cotton thread; handsewn, appliquéd,
reverse appliquéd, sizes variable. Courtesy of Alabama Chanin. Model: Camille
Mervin-Leroy. Photo: Peter Stanglmayr. page 38: Yinka Shonibare MBE, The
Age of Enlightenment—Gabrielle Emile Le Tonnelier de Breteuil, Marquise de
Chatelet, 2008; life-size fiberglass mannequin, Dutch wax printed cotton, mixed
media; figure: 46½" x 25½" x 33½". Image courtesy of James Cohan Gallery,
New York. page 46: Ahmad Askalany, Those Who Pray (detail), 2009; iron,
palm leaves; dimensions variable. Image courtesy of Fondazione La Biennale
di Venezia. Photo: Sandra Sider. page 36: Lisa ­Klakulak, Framed, 2009; do-
mestic merino and finn/rambouillet wool fleece, cotton sewing thread, waxed
linen, plastic tubing, magnetic closure; wet-felted, naturally dyed with blood

36 wood dye (not lightfast), handstitched, free-motion machine embroidered, shel-


lac-stiffened, mothproofed (nontoxic); 10" x 12" x 4½". Photo: Steve Mann.
Copyright Fiberarts® magazine, Interweave Press, LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.

Departments
20 | Creative Process
Making of a Security Bag | Knitwear Initiatives at RISD | Reverse
Appliqué

26 | Collecting
Rare Bird of Fashion: The Irreverent Iris Apfel

28 | Practical Matters
Caring For Vintage Treasures

30 | Profiles
Shinique Smith: Bound Together

34 | Sampling
Turning the Page: A Sampling of Wearable Art in Paper

54 | Reviews

26
The Art of Ceremony | This is Now | The Perfect Fit | Rowland Ricketts

62 | Travel & Traditions


Stitching Identities in Panama | Mardi Gras Grandeur
Fourth Street 4 Current & Coming 66
Letters 6 Competitions & Opportunities 72 80 | Curtains
Contributors 7 Advertiser’s Index 76 Veronica Tibbitts: American Legacy
News & Notes 8 Bazaar 76
Previews 16 Classifieds 77
on the web
Books 32 Resources 78
Exhibition Catalogs 60 fiberarts.com
Above: Twin sweater set, Krizia,1980s, Milan, Italy; angora wool; knit. •  Fiber-postcard valentine contest info
Skirt, Qing Dynasty (1644–1912), China; silk damask, brocade, satin •  More examples of Lisa Klakulak’s work from start
with silk and filé thread embroidery. Mandarin necklace, Qing Dynasty to finish
(1644–1912), China; silk cord, cornelian, jade, metal. Cuff bracelet, •  More work from our Sampling artists
about 1989, Europe; Amber resin, rhinestones. Boots, designed by Iris •  How Lisa Telford harvests her cedar bark and
Barrel Apfel and made by Canfora, about 1980, Capri, Italy; leather. Bird images of her traditional pre-contact clothing
Cages, 1950s, China; bamboo, porcelain, metal. Image courtesy of the
•  Updated exhibition and competition listings
Peabody Essex Museum, Salem, Massachusetts. Photo: © Eric Boman.

EDITORIAL copy editors Katie Banks, production editor Marketing Manager


editorial director Liz McGehee, Ellen Wheat Nancy Arndt Mary KinCannon
Patricia Bolton CREATIVE SERVICES Circulation Director
Editor Marci Rae McDade PUBLISHING Bob Kaslik
Designers Kit Kinseth,
senior Editor Liz Good Publisher John Bolton Circulation Manager
Jason Reid
listings Editor media sales director Nancy Silfven
Production DIRECTOR
Bobbie Irwin Julie Macdonald Business Manager,
Trish Faubion
EDITOrIAL INTERN Advertising manager Fiber Division
senior Production
Chelsea DeLong Leanne Pressly Dawn Stewart
Coordinator
contributing editor Marc McCoy Owens ad trafficker
Tom Lundberg Melissa Marie Brown

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