Beauty at Any Age Ebook

Beauty At Any Age
The best skin care, hair care,

and makeup tricks to have
in your image arsenal

By Diana Pemberton-Sikes

2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty At Any Age
2

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The author, Diana Pemberton-Sikes, and the publisher, Top Drawer Publications, LLC, have
made their best effort to produce a high quality, informative, and helpful book. But they make
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Beauty at Any Age is 2007 by Diana Pemberton-Sikes.

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3

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

A former model and unrepentant clotheshorse, Diana Pemberton-Sikes is a
certified color and image consultant who has been helping women reach their
image goals since 1994. Her clients include sales managers, social workers,
teachers, lawyers, and accountants, to name a few.

After the birth of her first two children, Diana wanted to spend more time with
them and started the FashionForRealWomen.com website in 2000 as a way to
stay in touch with her clients. Since then, shes been interviewed by dozens of
magazines, including Prevention, Womens World, Weight Watchers, Paris
Woman, and The American Bar Association. She won the 2001 ContentBiz.com,
Entrepreneur of the Year Award for her fashion webzine, Fashion Savvy, and
her articles appear in numerous fashion and beauty ezines all over the web.

Shes also a contributing author to Priscilla Y. Huff's, The Self-Employed
Woman's Guide to Launching a Home-Based Business and The FabJob Guide to
Become a Fashion Designer.

______________________________________________

Dedication

To my friend Monique Weber,
with whom I shared many beauty firsts:
first botched facial,
first disastrous makeup application,
first curling iron burn
Its a wonder we ever made it through the fifth grade!

Thanks for a lifetime of memories!

4
TABLE OF CONTENTS
ABOUT THE AUTHOR................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .................. 3
TABLE OF CONTENTS................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................. 4
INTRODUCTION................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................ 6
YOUR CROWNING GLORY ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ....... 9
YOUR FACE SHAPE................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .......................... 10
HAIR TYPE................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ....... 13
General Hair Care................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................. 15
Seasonal Hair Care ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .............. 16
YOUR CLOTHING PERSONALITY................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 18
THE ABCS OF HAIR COLOR................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .......... 21
About That Gray ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................... 25
Should You Do It Yourself?................................ ................................ ................................ ............................... 26
Color During Pregnancy ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 26
A NO-COMMITMENT WAY TO MAKE A CHANGE................................ ................................ ................................ ........... 26
WIGS, HAIR EXTENSIONS, AND WEAVES................................ ................................ ................................ .................... 27
GREAT HAIR WEBSITES................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................. 28
THE ABCS OF BEAUTIFUL SKIN................................ ................................ ................................ ........................ 30
ABOUT YOUR SKIN................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................... 31
FACTORS THAT AFFECT THE SKIN................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ . 32
CARING FOR YOUR SKIN ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............... 35
Normal Skin................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................ 35
Dry Skin ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ... 36
Oily Skin................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ... 37
Combination Skin ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................. 37
Sensitive Skin ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........................ 38
SEASONAL SKIN CARE ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................... 39
Summer Skin Care................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............... 39
Winter Skin Care................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................... 40
ACNE AND ROSACEA................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ....................... 41
Acne................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........... 41
Rosacea................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .... 45
SKIN CARE AS YOU AGE................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................ 46
PRODUCT GLOSSARY................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...................... 49
GREAT SKIN CARE SITES ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .............. 54
THE BASICS OF MAKEUP................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........ 55
THE IMPORTANCE OF COLOR................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......... 56
TYPES OF MAKEUP................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .......................... 58
BASIC APPLICATION................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ....................... 60
EVENING MAKEUP................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........................... 65
MAKEUP AS YOU AGE................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..................... 66
MAKEUP DRAWER MAINTENANCE................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .. 67
Makeup Shelf Life................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................. 68
Skin Care Shelf Life ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............. 70
GREAT MAKEUP SITES ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................... 72
YOUR EYEBROWS................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ....................... 74
TWEEZING OR WAXING YOUR BROWS ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................... 77

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FILLING IN YOUR BROWS................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............... 77
THE MOST COMMON BROW MISTAKES ................................ ................................ ................................ ........................ 78
WAXING, TWEEZING, AND THREADING................................ ................................ ................................ ........................ 79
THE WORST WAYS TO REMOVE EYEBROW HAIR................................ ................................ ................................ ......... 79
SHOULD YOU DYE YOUR BROWS?................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ 80
YOUR PEARLY WHITES................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........... 81
REGULAR DENTAL CARE................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................. 81
TEETH WHITENING................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................... 83
INVISALIGN ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 89
BODY................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................. 91
Cleanse................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 91
Prepare................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 93
Protect ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ...... 95
COMMON SKIN CARE PROBLEMS................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ . 102
HAIR REMOVAL ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......................... 107
TYPES OF HAIR REMOVAL ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............ 107
HAIR TO REMOVE................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .......................... 109
HOW TO SHAVE ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ............................ 112
HOW TO WAX................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ 113
HAIR REMOVAL ISSUES................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................ 115
HANDS, FEET, AND NAILS................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ... 117
BASIC HAND CARE................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ....................... 118
COMMON HAND PROBLEMS ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ......... 120
HOW TO GET BEAUTIFUL NAILS................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .. 122
Basic Nail Care ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .................... 122
Nails For Your Lifestyle................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 123
Manicures 101 ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..................... 124
OTHER NAIL POLISH TIPS ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........... 127
The Pros and Cons of Artificial Nails ................................ ................................ ................................ ........... 128
TIPS ON TRAVELING................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..................... 129
BASIC FOOT CARE................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ........................ 130
COMMON FOOT PROBLEMS................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .......... 131
Perfect Pedicures ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................ 134
FRAGRANCE................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ . 135
HOW PERFUME IS MADE................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .............. 137
THE STRENGTH OF PERFUMES................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ..... 139
THE WEAR AND CARE OF YOUR FAVORITE SCENT ................................ ................................ ................................ .... 140
CREATE YOUR SIGNATURE SCENT ................................ ................................ ................................ .............................. 142
POSTURE................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ ....... 144
CONCLUSION................................ ................................ ................................ ................................ .............................. 148
RESOURCES FOR FURTHER STUDY................................ ................................ ................................ ................ 149

6

INTRODUCTION

There are no ugly women, only lazy ones.
--Helena Rubinstein

What makes a woman beautiful?

Is it her eyes? Her smile? Her spirit?

Its hard to say. Each culture has an ideal image of beauty, and those who fall
close to it are often celebrated and revered. Research shows time and again that
attractive people enjoy a lot more perks than their less attractive counterparts,
like earning more money, attracting more potential mates, and getting more
attention from teachers in school. So if were not supposed to judge a book by
its cover, why do we seem to do just that?

Its one of those survival of the fittest things, according to Nancy Etcoff, a
professor at Harvard Medical School and author of Survival of the Prettiest
(Anchor Books, 1999). We tend to favor people who have shiny hair, clear skin,
white teeth, and a fit body because theyre all indications of a healthy, vibrant
person -- as opposed to dull hair, bad skin, yellow teeth, and unfit body, which
historically have indicated disease or declining health. Darwin called it natural
selection; Paris Hilton simply refers to it as being hot (bet you never expected
to see THOSE two names linked together in a sentence).

So our seeming fixation with looks isnt a recent phenomenon, incited by the
media. Instead, its as old as time itself, a survival strategy adopted to ensure
propagation of the species.

Were attracted to pretty things. Thats why we choose a shiny apple over a dull
one, a clean car over a dirty car, and a pretty dress over an ugly one. Why do
beautiful women and handsome men always grace the covers of magazines?
Because they sell better than if there were unattractive people on the cover. Its
as simple as that.

Looking to get promoted? Find a guy? Land a job?

7

Then it makes sense, based on everything youve just read, to take extra care
with your appearance. If youre well-groomed and well-dressed, youre more
likely to succeed in your quest than if you are not.

So am I saying that you should take more time with the packaging than the
substance? Of course not! How you look will get in the door; what you know
will keep you in the room. But to get in the room, youve got to get through the
door, so lets find out how to do that.

Lets begin with one simple question:

When was the last time you took a good, hard look at your grooming habits?

If youve gotten into a routine, you probably dont even think about it much any
more. Hair, makeup, hygieneyou go through the steps to get yourself out the
door.

But what does your grooming say about you? Is it time to revisit the situation?

Chances are, it is.

Many women completely underestimate the impact of their hair and makeup. It
seems like such a trivial thing, yet studies reveal time and again that women who
take care with their appearance:

1. Are perceived as being more competent than
women who dont.

2. Are more likely to be promoted than women
who dont.

3. Typically earn 20% more than women who
dont.

Both pretty, but whos more
likely to succeed?

If youre not having the impact you want, a change is probably in order.
Fortunately, it doesnt have to be dramatic or expensive. A new hairstyle or
makeup routine could be all it takes to create the effect you want.

If youve been thinking about updating your look but dont know where to start,
Beauty at Any Age will get you pointed in the right direction.

8
Well start with your hair, cover everything down to your toes, and even discuss
how to sit and climb stairs with grace. By the time youre done, youll be able
to:

Determine your best hairstyle and hair color

Find easy ways to maintain healthy skin

Put on makeup for different activities

Find the best eyebrow shape for your face

Discover inexpensive ways to get a beautiful smile

Get clear, dimple-free skin on your body

Determine the best hair removal methods for you

Discover the best hand, feet, and nail routines for your lifestyle

Find your signature scent

Stand tall and wall elegantly

Looking great is easy, once you know what to do. With a small commitment and
a little practice, you can turn heads, engender confidence, and make more money
by simply upgrading your beauty routine.

The devil is in the details, they say; so lets get to some of those details.

Enjoy!

Diana Pemberton-Sikes
diana@fashionforrealwomen.com

Beauty is only skin deep, but ugly goes clear to the bone.
Dorothy Parker

9

YOUR CROWNING GLORY
If truth is beauty, how come no one
has their hair done in a library?
-- Lily Tomlin

Why is that when our hair looks great we feel great, but when it looks bad we
cringe?

Its because our hair frames our face, and everyone looks at our face. If you find
a hairstyle thats easy to maintain and works well with your features, youre
good to go on that count. But if your crown and glory feels more like
shackles and drudgery because of the time and money involved in maintaining it,
perhaps its time to re-evaluate your hairstyle and maintenance routine.

Now I realize this is easier said than done. While some
women are very adept at changing their looks, adapting them
to the latest styles and trends, Ill say right now that theyre
in the minority.

Most women struggle with their hair. They try to stay
current using the one size fits all mentality of our culture
and then wonder why, years later, they look so goofy in
pictures. Have any teased beehives, Dorothy Hamill wedges
or Farrah Fawcett flips in your background? How about a
Jennifer Beals perm or Jennifer Annison Rachel cut? No?
Youre probably one of the few.

Jennifer Aniston
The Rachel (1995)
WireImage.com

Yes, you want to stay current with your hairstyle because not doing so will date
you quickly (keeping the styles popular in your youth doesnt make you look
younger; it makes you look older). But you want a style and maintenance
routine that works with your hair texture, your face shape, and your lifestyle
and thats not always the latest trend.

So where do you start your quest for the perfect style?

With your face shape.

1

10

Your Face Shape

While some face shapes can seemingly wear any hairstyle, others require
specific elements to accent the good points and downplay the not-so-good points.
You can shave years, pounds, and wrinkles with the right haircut -- or add them
unnecessarily with the wrong one -- so take some time with this. It could make a
big difference.

If youre not sure of your face shape, heres a simple trick to figure it out: slick
back all your hair and look straight into the mirror. Trace the outline of your
face on the mirror with a bar of soap. Then match up your shape with one of
these shown here.

The Oval

Experiment with different styles

The Oval face is slightly narrower at the jaw than at
the temple or cheekbones, and has a rounded
hairline. Because the face is so proportional, with no
dominant areas, it can easily wear many styles,
including layers, curls, or one-length cuts.

Avoid: If your face is small, avoid too much hair on
the face, like bangs, angled cuts, and the like.

The Oblong

Add softness to make the face
seem shorter and fuller

The Oblong is long and slender with narrow bone
structure and may have a very narrow chin. Since
long, straight hair will further emphasize the length
of the face, opt for soft bangs, curls, or short-to-
medium length styles that make your face appear
fuller.

Avoid: Center parts, straight hair, thick, straight-
across bangs, or too much height at the crown, all of
which will make the face look even longer.

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The Round

Put fullness above or
below the cheekbones

A Round face has a rounded chin and hairline
with the widest point at the cheeks and ears.
Because of the fullness at mid-face, opt for
styles that draw attention elsewhere, like
fullness at the crown or around the neck and
shoulders.

Avoid: Chin length styles, straight bangs, styles
that curve into the face, and center parts (off-
center is more flattering), because all of those
will make the face appear rounder.

The Square

Add fullness to top to counter-
balance a strong jaw line

A Square face has a strong, square jaw line and
a small or narrow forehead. To de-emphasize
the jaw, opt for short or medium-length styles
with wispy, off-center bangs and height at the
crown. Part hair off-center rather than down the
center or on the side.

Avoid: Straight, chopped bangs or too much
fullness at the side, both of which will make the
face seem more square.

The Heart-Shaped

Cover the temples and draw
attention to the chin or neck

A Heart-shaped face is wide at the temples and
narrow at the chin. To de-emphasize the
hairline, keep your hair chin-length or longer
with styles that draw attention to the chin or
neck. Opt for a side rather than a center part or
find a style with no part at all.

Avoid: Very short styles or those that draw
attention to the temple area, thus emphasizing
the wide hairline.

12
The Diamond

Cover forehead and put
fullness at the chin or neck

A Diamond-shaped face has a narrow chin and
forehead with wide cheekbones. Balance out
the cheekbones by covering the forehead with
bangs and adding fullness around the chin.
Short and medium-length hair styles work very
well with this face shape. Opt for parts on the
side rather than at the center.

Avoid: Long, full styles and center parts that
will visually elongate the face.

All illustrations in this section courtesy of Hairuwear.com

See why some of those trendy hairstyles might not work for your face shape? If
they emphasize things youd rather hide or hide things youd rather show, avoid
them or get a variation that better serves your needs.

Here are some other things you might keep in mind. If you have a:

High Forehead: Let it show if you like, or wear bangs brushed straight
down or to the side.

Low Forehead: Try to keep it clear of hair, particularly if your face is
small. Too much hair can overpower your other features. If you wear
bangs, keep them light and feathery.

Short Neck: Opt for short, neat, and smooth styles. Too long or too
many curls at the chin or neck can make it seemingly disappear.

Long Neck: Show it off with hair thats chin-length or swept back. Short
hair works too, provided its in proportion to your face and body.

Large Face: A longer length can balance it. Dont go too full and fluffy
or your head may appear very large.

Small Face: Keep hair medium length or shorter. Too much volume or
curls will overpower a small-scale face.

So now that weve taken your hair type into consideration, whats the next step
in discovering the best hairstyle for you? Your hair type.

13
Hair Type

All hair is not created equal. Some people have straight hair, some have curly.
Some have thick, some have thin. Some hair grows fast, some grows slow.
Some hair is oily, some is dry. Color, texture, and volume can vary among
different ethnicities; it can also vary among members of the same family.

So whats my point?

Because of all of these factors, you may or may not be able to wear certain hair
styles easily or you may end up spending a lot of time, money, and energy to
get a look that defies what nature gave you. If you want an economical way to
look great and get out the door quickly, look for products and styles that work
with your hair type, not against it.

Here are the best styles and hair care routines for each type of hair:

Coarse, Tightly Coiled Hair

Coarse, tightly coiled hair has a thick diameter and is often very dry because the
sebum (oil) from the scalp cant make it down the hair shaft easily.

Shampoo every other day with moisturizing, creamy
shampoos -- like those containing shea butter, wheat germ oil
or coconut or macadamia nut oil -- that coat the hair shaft and
help retain moisture.

Condition hair after each shampoo with products containing
either cetyl or stearyl alcohol, or essential oils and botanicals,
to help lock in moisture.

To make the most of your curls, try a layered hair style (long
or short) that cuts shape into your curls without weighing
down your hair.

Tyra Banks has
coarse, tightly
coiled hair

Thick, Wavy, or Curly Hair

Like coarse hair, thick, wavy, and curly hair tends to be dry because oil has
trouble making its way down the hair shaft.

Shampoo your hair every second or third day with a rich, creamy shampoo.

14

Those containing a gentle detergent like sodium laureth
sulfate and a water-binding ingredient like propylene glycol
work best for this hair type.

Condition hair after each shampoo with a smoothing
ingredient like soy or wheat protein to help combat dryness.
Allow hair to air-dry, if possible.

Thick hair can be resistant to color and perming. Wavy hair
is desirable, because it holds curl or can be straightened easily
with styling tools. Both thick hair and curly hair benefit from
layers, to keep from weighing hair down.

Kathy Ireland
has thick, wavy
hair

Fine, Limp, or Oily Hair

Fine hair has a small diameter and because of it, sebum (oil) can travel easily
down the hair shaft making it look and feel oily quickly, sometimes every day.

Shampoo once a day or as needed with a clear, volumizing
shampoo that doesnt weigh hair down. The ingredient
panthenol is particularly effective is coating the hair shaft to
make hair look fuller.

Condition only as needed with a lightweight conditioner, and add
only from midway to the ends of your hair, to avoid putting extra
products on the scalp. Alternately, try a spray leave-in
conditioner, again only adding from the middle to the ends of
hair.

Uma Thurman
has fine hair

Fine hair tends to be weightless and have flyaways. Its often straight and wont
hold curl or color well. Blunt, geometric cuts tend to work well for this type of
hair.

Celebrity photos courtesy of WireImage.com

Dry, Damaged Hair

Hair can become dry and brittle from too many processes, like colors, perms,
straightening, relaxing, etc. A little TLC will return it to normal condition over
time.

15
Shampoo your hair with a moisturizing, creamy shampoo, staying away from
clear, deep cleansing formulas.

Condition your hair after each shampoo with an ultra-moisturizing product like
shea butter or natural oils. If hair is extremely damaged, dont completely rinse
out conditioner. You may even want to deep condition once a week.

Color-Treated Hair

To condition hair and keep color from fading or changing shades, use shampoos
designed for color-treated hair. Also use a conditioner formulated for processed
hair.

Dandruff

Got flakes? While your body and scalp are constantly sloughing off dead cells
as new ones emerge, dandruff takes the process to a whole new level. The scalp
hosts a fungus called pityrosporum ovale which normally occurs at very low
levels. But when the scalp produces an excess of sebum, this yeast-like fungus
grows rapidly, inflames the hair follicles, and causes the dead skin cells on the
scalp to fall off in noticeable flakes.

The best way to combat the problem is with dandruff shampoos and
conditioners. Look for products that exfoliate, soothe, and prevent
inflammation. Scrub and rinse thoroughly. If the problem persists, see your
dermatologist.

Alopecia (Hair Loss)

Just as with dead skin cells, our bodies constantly slough off old hair as new
growth comes in. Many women experience some hair loss after giving birth.
But if youre losing more hair than is being replaced, leading to baldness or bald
patches, consult your doctor. You may be losing your hair as a result of
heredity, hormonal imbalance, or disease.

GENERAL HAIR CARE
As you can see, some hair care products are better designed for your hair type
than others. What you use in your daily routine can dry out your hair, weigh it
down unnecessarily or allow you to look fabulous, depending on what you use.

16
So take the time to read the labels carefully and get products designed for your
type of hair.

To reduce damage, always comb out wet hair with a wide-toothed comb. Allow
your hair to air-dry whenever possible, as the heat from blow dryers and hair
dryers can be damaging. Use heated styling appliances sparingly (curling irons,
straightening irons, hot rollers), and set them at the lowest setting.

SEASONAL HAIR CARE
Summer

Heat and humidity can take their toll on your tresses, increasing sweat and oil
production or drying hair out from sun and surf. You may need to adapt your
regular routine to accommodate this:

Adjust your shampoo and conditioners, if necessary. Use a deep
cleansing formulation to rid your hair of oil and sweat.

Deep condition regularly, at least once a week, if youre in the sun
or water a lot.

Let your hair air dry whenever possible. Give it a break from blow
drying in warm weather and let nature do it instead.

Wear it up. But vary the style to avoid strain on the hair. Dont
always wear it in a pony tail or braided or pinned up or whatever.

Wear hats and scarves for protection, particularly if you have color
treated hair (it fades in sunlight). Dont think your scalp can
sunburn? Wrong! It can, and boy, does it hurt!

Wear a leave-in conditioner at the pool or beach. Opt for one that
contains sunscreen and offers protection from the sun.

Try a shorter style. If you just cant stand all that hair on your neck
and are all thumbs when it comes to styling, try a shorter, easy-to-
maintain style.

17
Take Extra Care When Swimming

If you swim a lot, take special care with your hairparticularly if its color
treated. Chlorine can damage your hair and even turn it green in some instances.
So
Use an anti-chlorine shampoo and conditioner to help rid your hair
of the chemicals. The main ingredient youre looking for is
E.D.T.A. Chlor-Off Anti-Chlorine Shampoo and Conditioner is
formulated just for this situation.

Wear a swim cap.

Winter

Between cold weather and dry central heat, your hair can take a beating in the
winter and start to dry out, frizz, or get static. To combat the elements:

Switch your shampoo formulations from deep cleansing to moisture-
rich for the season. Or, if that bogs down your hair, alternate your
products every few days.

Dont shampoo every day; try every other day instead.

Use an intense weekly moisture treatment.

Try a different hairstyle that requires fewer appliances and products. If
you always curl your straight hair with hot rollers, curling iron, or a
round brush and blow dryer before spraying it into place with
hairspray, for example, try pulling it back into a sleek bun or ponytail
instead. If you always straighten your curls, try letting them go au
natural.

To keep frizz, static, and hat hair to a minimum, try hair-friendly hats
like newsboys, berets, and Bretons. Avoid stocking hats, cloches, and
baseball caps.

Having great hair in extreme weather need not be a challenge. Just remember
that like your clothes, your shoes, and your makeup, you need to change your
hair care routine to adapt to the new season.

18
So now that weve talked about hair type and face shape, whats left? Your
clothing personality.
Your Clothing Personality

Clothing personality? What does that have to do with hair?

A lot.

I describe clothing personalities in detail in Wardrobe Magic, so I wont repeat
that information here, but I will say that just as you have certain types of clothes
that look best on you, so too, do you have certain hairstyles that better suit.
Match your style of hair to your face shape, hair type, and clothing personality,
and the odds are very good that youll arrive at a something that looks good,
feels good, and fits with your lifestyle.

Here are some details:

The Classic

The Classic is the epitome of style and grace and is the image
most often associated with high-income brackets. She prefers
simplicity and elegance and is always groomed, but never
fussy. Her hair is simple and easily managed and clothing
lines are uncluttered and pleasing to the eye.

Classics look best in moderate to somewhat short lengths, in a
smooth, well-groomed, controlled style. The cut is usually
blunt or has some layering.

Prototypes: Grace Kelly, Coco Chanel, Diane Sawyer, Rene
Zellweger, Ashley Judd, Naomi Watts, Uma Thurman

Examples of Classic hairstyles:

19

The Sporty Natural

The Sporty Natural is friendly, approachable, and usually
athletic. With her tousled hair and no-fuss approach,
Sporty-Naturals prefer the loose, carefree, windblown
look. They dont like to set or fuss with their hair, and
usually avoid the smooth, sleek blunt cuts favored by other
personalities.

Prototypes: Sandra Bullock, Julia Roberts, Katie Couric,
Christie Brinkley

Examples of Sporty-Natural hairstyles:

The Dramatic

The mysterious, cutting-edge Dramatic both intimidates and
intrigues. A natural born leader who prefers the latest
fashions and precision hairstyles, she commands authority
but may be perceived as being aloof with nerves of steel.

Dramatics prefer to wear their hair in sleek geometric or
asymmetrical cuts or if long, in a sophisticated chignon.
They typically avoid curls, frills, and small accessories.

Prototypes: Charlize Theron, Fran Drescher, Gwen Stefani

20
Examples of Dramatic hairstyles:

The Romantic

The Romantic is sexy, artistic, charming and
diplomatic, and seeks beauty and grace in all that
she does. She likes curls, flounces, and all things
feminine.

Romantics prefer curved and curly hairstyles,
never straying far from curling irons or hot
rollers.

Prototypes: Elizabeth Taylor, Jacklyn Smith,
Sophia Loren, Jane Seymour, Selma Hayek

Examples of Romantic hairstyles:

See how this might impact your style choice? If youre a laid-back Sporty-
Natural trying to maintain the precision cut of a Dramatic or the curls of a

21
Romantic, youre working too hard. Find a style more in keeping with your
personality and youll have a lot easier time getting out the door in the morning.

The ABCs of Hair Color

What color should my hair be?

This is one of the questions I get most often. My answer: the one that nature
intended. Youre usually born with the color that suits you best, and for most
women, doing nothing is best. But very few women leave nature alone. In fact,
nearly 3 out of every 4 women color their hair, usually for one of three reasons:
to go (or stay) blonde, to cover gray, or to give themselves a boost.

This isnt particularly new.

Women have been unhappy with their natural hair color
for a long, long time. Cave paintings show people with
elaborate hair colors, and the Ancient Egyptians used to
color their hair with henna. The Greeks and Romans,
proud users of brash colors in battle, had recipes to
reverse the effects of color gone too dark.

Borax, lupins, saffron, and myrrh were used to color hair for thousands of years
until William Henry Park, a chemist at the Royal College of Chemistry,
stumbled across a permanent dye process in 1859 thats been used in both hair
color and fabric dyes ever since. In 1909, a Frenchman named Eugene Schuller
created the first safe commercial hair color and started a company featuring this
product. Today that company is known as LOreal.

While Hollywood lead the way in colored hair in the first half
of the 20
th
century with unforgettable screen sirens like Jean
Harlow, Rita Hayworth, and Marilyn Monroe, to name a few,
the average woman on the street did not color her hair. As late
as 1950, only 7% of the population used hair color, and then
only as a way to disguise the gray. No respectable woman
would admit that she colored her hair.

My, how times have changed! Today, 75% of American

22
women reportedly cover their hair, with red being the most frequently requested
color at salons.

There are three levels of hair coloring products that are available on the market.
Each reacts differently on your hair:

Semi-permanent color adds color to your hair
without dramatically changing the natural color.
The color molecules go into your hairs cortex, but
dont interact with the natural pigments. Because
the molecules are small, they leave the hair shaft
after several shampoos (usually 6 to 12), leaving
hair the same way it was before the color. Its a
great way to temporarily cover up some of your
gray, or enhance your natural color without dealing
with root outgrowth. Because it contains no
peroxide, it wont lighten your hair.

Surya Henna Cream
Demi-permanent color creates larger size color
molecules, which take longer to exit the hair shaft
usually 24 to 26 shampoos. It contains no
ammonia, so the natural pigment cant be lightened,
but it does have peroxide which can make a
subtle but noticeable color change. It can also blend
and cover gray.

Wella Color Charm
Note: Both semi-permanent and demi-permanent color can become permanent
color on permed or previously treated hair. Proceed with caution!

Permanent color uses both ammonia and peroxide
and can create a significant color change. The
color molecules enter the hair cortex, where they
react and expand to a size that does not wash out.
Youll have to grow out your hair or cut it off to
get rid of the color. The ammonia alters your
natural pigment to create a new base, and then to
add a new permanent color. The result is a
combination of your natural pigment and the shade
youve chosen. In order to hide root growth, youll
need a touch up every four to six weeks.

Revlon Colorist

23
To make a significant color change, like blond to black or black to blond (which
is not recommended, by the way), youll need a two-step process called double
process color. It involves bleaching and toning the hair in two steps, and its not
something you should attempt if youre new to coloring. If youre intent on such
a change, go to a professional and get it done right.

So which is the best solution for you? It depends on several things:

1. What you want to accomplish
2. How long you want the color to last
3. Want you can afford to maintain.

Most women start conservatively and work up to higher commitment levels. If
you want a little lift for your 20
th
anniversary party without ongoing
maintenance after the big event, try a semi-permanent color. Want to have
sun-kissed highlights for the summer? Demi-permanent may fit the bill. Dont
want anyone to know youre gray? Permanent is probably your best solution.

If you do get permanent, all over color, remember that it does require regular
maintenance (every four to six weeks) to keep the new growth in check. This
isnt something you should do on a whim. With at-home solutions costing
between $4 and $10 per application, and professional jobs running $50 to $100
per visit, depending on your hair length, maintenance could run $50 to $1200 per
year. If your budget cant handle that, try a different solution.

Permanent highlights usually cost the same as all-over color, for example, but
wont show re-growth as quickly. You could stretch the maintenance to 4 times
a year, and significantly reduce your cash outlay. Try different solutions to find
the one that best meets your goals.

So now that you know how color works and have an idea of the maintenance
schedule, what color should you make your hair?

One that compliments your natural coloring. If you
have warm undertones in your skin, stick with
warm, yellow-based colors. If you have cool
undertones, stick with cool, blue-based colors. Use
pictures from your childhood days to find a suitable
shade. If your mother saved a clipping from your
first haircut as a toddler, use that as a starting point.

Yellow hair color,
blue skin tonenot good

24
Dont just pick a color because you like the way it looks on a box or your
favorite celebrity; make sure it will work with your skin tone as well.

Actress Nicole Kidman frequently colors her hair for movie rolls. Notice how
vibrant her skin looks when she sticks closest to her natural hair color.

Jan 1993 July 2005 Sept 2005 Oct 2006

Photos courtesy of WireImage.com

Here are some additional hair color/skin tone guidelines:

If Your Undertones Are And Your Eyes Are Try

W

A

R

M

Ivory
Peachy
Golden Brown
Creamy Beige
Cafe au Lait
Tawny
Coppery
Deep Golden Brown

Blue
Blue-Green
Green
Hazel
Topaz
Amber
Coffee Bean
Black

Golden Blonde
Golden Brown
Honey Brown
Red Brown
Golden with Red
Highlights
Chestnut
Copper, Mahogany

C

O

O

L

Rosy Pink
Rosy beige
Dark Olive
Dark Brown
Ebony

Light Blue
Gray-Blue
Deep Blue
Deep Green
Brown or Black

Ash Blonde
Platinum Blonde
Ash Brown
Brown
Dark Brown
Black, Slate
Salt and Pepper
Pure White

25
ABOUT THAT GRAY

If youre trying to cover gray, opt for a lighter color than you had before you
started to turn. Since your skin undertone fades a little with age, you need to use
a lighter color to keep up with the diminishing tone. Sticking with your old,
darker color will make you look older, not younger.

Here are some celebrities who have done a good job with this:

Sophia Loren

Oct 1981

May 2006
Diahann Carroll

May 1968

Jun 2003

Helen Mirren

Sep 1994

Feb 2007


If you have coarse hair, prematurely gray hair, or gray hair around the temples
and hairline, you may have had trouble covering it. For some reason, these types
of hair are especially resistant to color, and tend to take less color and lose it
faster than other types of gray hairs.

If youre having trouble with color, try these tips:

Apply color to these gray areas first. This will give the resistant gray hairs
more time to absorb color.

Leave color on longer. Test a strand and adjust your timing. Grays could
take up to 45 minutes to process.

Increase your hair color level. If your gray hair still shows up after you've
adjusted the timing on your semi- or demi-permanent color, you might
need permanent color to accomplish the task.

26
SHOULD YOU DO IT YOURSELF?
Coloring your hair at home is economical, and with a little practice, easy to
master. Still, there are times when you might want to go to a professional.
Consider going to a colorist when:

You want to lighten or darken your hair more than three shades
Youve colored your own hair and now its a disaster
Your hair is permed or damaged
You have never colored your hair and want a big change
Youre all thumbs when it comes to stuff like this and youre afraid
youre going to make a big mess

To find a competent professional, ask people who have hair color that you like.
Dont be shy! Some stylists specialize in cutting, while others focus on color.

Once youre at the salon, ask lots of questions. Dont let anyone talk you into
anything youre not sure about. Ask to see samples of the color ahead of time,
and be sure to discuss all your maintenance options.

COLOR DURING PREGNANCY
Many doctors recommend that you avoid any kind of chemical hair treatments
during pregnancy. While theres not much medical evidence to show that these
chemicals are harmful to your baby, hormones can affect the way your hair
responds to treatment. Sometimes perms wont take and dye changes color.
Talk it over with your doctor and see whats right for you.

A No-Commitment Way to Make a Change

If youre thinking about a change but are too
chicken to take the plunge, try on different
colors by visiting your local wig shop.

Or, try a virtual makeover software or website,
like:
MakeOverStudios.com
MakeOverSolutions.com

Virtually try on hairstyles
and hair color to see which
works best on you.

27
Wigs, Hair Extensions, and Weaves

If you were not blessed with fabulous locks, have lost hair because of medical
reasons, or just want a quick, no-commitment change, fake hair could be the way
to go. Made from human hair or synthetic material, wigs, falls, hair extensions,
and the like have fallen in and out of popularity for thousands of years.

Wigs were first made by the Ancient Egyptians who would remove all body hair
from head to toe to stay cool and keep body vermin to a minimum. After falling
out of favor during the Dark Ages, wigs returned to popularity in the 1600s as
both a status symbol and a way to cover poor hygiene. Today, wigs are often
worn to cover hair loss from age or medical reasons, or to offer alternate looks
for actors or the fashion-conscious.

Here are some types of fake hair:

Wigs are made out of human or synthetic hair stitched onto a
weft or net cap-style foundation thats designed to cover the
entire head. Depending on the construction, they can we
washed, styled, and set, just like human hair. They do require
occasional maintenance, which you can do or have done for
you by the place where you purchased the wig.

Falls are sort of partial wigs that are attached to the head by
combs or clips. They usually match the wearers regular hair
color, and are easily attached as ponytails, braids, long hair,
etc. Great for special occasions, falls have been popular on
and off since the 1960s.

Extensions and weaves are pieces of hair that are bonded to
the natural hair by a keratine vegetal-based microbond, or
sewn into the natural hair with a weft. They can last for many
months, being washed and styled with the regular hair, but
you need to use styling appliances (blowdryer, curling iron,
hot rollers) at a lower heat setting that normal, particularly
with synthetic hair.

Pictures in the section courtesy of Hairuwear.com

28
Soeven if you werent blessed with a beautiful head of hair, you can look like
you have great hair by wearing a wig or by adding a fall or extensions. Just keep
the Sydney Bristow (Alias) pastel and techno wigs for after work hours, please
-- unless youre a chic international spy like Sydney.

Great Hair Websites

Here are some great specialty hair sites that may be of interest to you:

General Information

Offers general information like hair care and styling; also has hair style
galleries:

HairBoutique.com
Visual-Makeover.com

Long Hair

Love your long hair and need some tips on how to manage it? Youll find
everything you could possibly want to know at:

LongHairLovers.com

Short Hair

Thinking about cutting your hair short or looking for different ways to style
your short do? Check out The Short Hair Variety Story on
HairBoutique.com for tips, tricks, and plenty of inspiration:

HairBoutique.com/tips/tip177.htm

Curly Hair

Whats the best way to manage your naturally curly tresses?
NaturallyCurly.com, the website for girls with curls can tell you.

NaturallyCurly.com

29
Straight Hair

Hate your straight hair or just wish you could figure out what to do with it?
Here are some tips you might enjoy:

Visual-Makeover.com/form.htm

African-American Hair

Need tips and tricks on how to handle the special needs of black hair? Here
are a couple of sites you might like:

Jazma.com
MyDreadLocks.com
NappyHair.com

Asian Hair

Asian hair is more porous than other hair types, so its easy to over-perm or
over-color. Want some other hard-hitting facts? Then click on over for tips
and tricks on styling Asian hair.

AsianMs.net

Whew! Weve covered a lot here and I know it can be overwhelming. Just
start with the basics:

Change your hair regularly so you look current
Find a hairstyle that works with your face shape, hair type, and clothing
personality
Find a color that compliments your skin tone, coloring goals, and budget
Experiment and have fun with wigs and other styling products

30

THE ABCS OF BEAUTIFUL SKIN
I use products from my dermatologist
but the best things you can do for your skin
are not smoke, always use sunscreen,
and drink a lot of water. Sela Ward

Ever had pimples? Rashes? Puffy eyes?

Join the club.

There are some days when you wake up, look in the mirror, and wonder if thats
really youor some unfortunate thing the cat dragged in. Deadlines, late nights,
2 a.m. feedings -- hey, weve all been there. But if that describes MOST of your
mornings, then perhaps its time to review your skin care regime.

Because lets face it: bad skin can impact your self esteem.

When your skin looks flawless (or nearly so), you put it
out of your mind and hold your head high. But when
youre plagued with skin trouble like rashes, pimples, or
puffiness, you tend to cringe every time youre talking to
someone and their gaze strays to your trouble spots. Its
hard to feel confident when people are staring at your
imperfections.

But good skin IS possible, even if youve never had it. Diet, exercise, and vices
all contribute to the condition of your skin, so a little lifestyle analysis combined
with some product experimentation and perhaps a visit to a dermatologist could
yield a solution that has you looking and feeling terrific.

Lets go over some basics so that by the time we get to the
next chapter on makeup, we can all agree that cosmetics
should be used to enhance your features, not spackle your
problems. Start with a good foundation -- clear skin -- and
your makeup routine will become a breeze.

2

31
About Your Skin

Did you know that skin is the largest organ in your body? Measuring almost 20
square feet, it needs to be fed and nourished to remain healthy. Poorly
maintained skin will start showing signs of neglect as early as age thirty while
healthy skin can retain its youthful vigor well into its golden years.

To understand how to best protect and care for your skin, lets start with a closer
look.

The skin consists of three layers:

1. The subdermis is a layer of fatty tissue that
cushions the skin above it.

2. The dermis is the middle layer of skin. It
contains collagen, which gives skin its bounce;
elastin, which gives it flexibility and durability; and
blood capillaries, nerves, hair follicles, sweat, and
sebaceous (oil) glands.

3. The epidermis is the top layer of skin. It's 1/250
of an inch thick and performs the critical function
of cell renewal.

New skin cells form at the base of the epidermis
and slowly move upward, losing moisture and
flattening out as they go (A).

Cells on the surface of the skin are continually
sloughed off to make way for replacement cells in
a process that takes two to three weeks for
younger skin and twice that long for mature skin.
The longer the process takes, the more prone the
skin is to moisture loss (B).

I'll give you some tips on how to combat this in just a moment.

Pores are openings in the skin's surface from which hairs grow and through
which oil from oil glands flows to the surface. The size of the pore is
proportional to the size of the oil gland under it.

32

Acne can occur when a pore becomes clogged, usually from dead cells that build
up inside the follicle. The cells mix with excess oil and do not shed, creating a
blockage in the pore. The areas of the face that tend to clog the most are also
those that are the oiliest: the nose, the forehead, and the chin a region
otherwise known as the "oily T."

While there's no known way to shrink or reduce the size of pores, it is possible to
make them appear smaller with skin care techniques that remove oil from the
skin's surface. When the cells that make up the skin's surface are free of excess
oil, pores will appear smaller.

Factors that Affect the Skin

There are several factors that affect the health of your skin. Some are
controllable; some are not.

Uncontrollable Factors include:

Natural Aging

Natural changes occur in your body's chemistry throughout your life that
contribute to your skin's appearance.

As a child, your skin is soft and unblemished

When you become an adolescent, shifting hormonal levels, increased oil
gland production, and genetic predisposition make skin especially
susceptible to blemishes.

As an adult, oil gland production decreases and skin becomes less oily
and prone to blemishes. This oil loss reduces the skin's elasticity, resulting
in fine lines and wrinkles.

After menopause, shifting hormonal levels, diminished regeneration of
skin cells, and reduced production of collagen protein cause skin to
become dry and fragile, increasing the likelihood of sags and wrinkles.

33
Sun

The sun is probably the most damaging environmental factor
we encounter. With its seductively warm rays casting a
"healthy glow" to our skin, it's easy to believe that basking
in the sun is okay. But continued exposure to its ultra violet
rays dries out, damages, and wrinkles the skin.

Humidity

Low humidity robs skin of essential moisture. High humidity can cause sweat
glands to work overtime, making skin feel oilier. Moisturizing is the key to
success here. Wash less and moisturize more when in low humidity, wash more
and moisturize lightly when in high humidity.

Temperature Extremes

Cold temperatures combined with low humidity draw moisture from the skin,
leaving it tight and dry (anyone been skiing in Colorado lately?). Combine hot
temperatures with low humidity and youve got the same situation, literally
"baking" the skin (hello, Arizona!).

Wind

Strong wind, especially combined with extreme temperatures and low humidity,
can cause dry, parched, and flaky skin. Windborne dust and dirt can also strike
the skin and stick to the surface, clogging pores and irritating skin.

Pollution

Smog and other air pollutants can stick to the skin and clog pores.

Controllable Factors include:

Sleep

Want a quick facelift? Get a good night's sleep. Skin renews itself by building
new skin cells while you rest, so regularly getting enough sleep will make you
appear (and feel) younger. Doctors recommend seven to eight hours a night.

34
Water

I know -- you're sick to death about hearing how you should drink eight glasses
of water a day. But it's advice worth repeating and following. Not only does
water flush impurities from the body, it helps improve circulation which in turn
speeds cell growth.

Nutrition

There's a direct correlation between healthy skin and good
nutrition. Eat a varied menu built from the five food groups:
breads/cereals, fruits, vegetables, meats/fish, and dairy -- and
your skin will love you for it. Keep "junk food" to a
minimum.

Exercise

Regular exercise maintains circulation and speeds blood to the surface of the
skin for regeneration. It also alleviates the negative effects of stress.

Stress

Stress can wreak havoc on the skin, sometimes causing blemishes, hives, loss of
color, and circles under the eyes. Habitually tense facial expressions can even
permanently line the skin. Practice relaxing the facial muscles to ease the tension
created by constant frowning or furrowing the brows.

Toxic Substances

Smoking and drinking may feel good and help relieve stress, but here's what
they're doing to your skin:

Smoking constricts the facial capillaries,
which allows less blood, oxygen, and
nutrients to the skin. End result? Makes
you look older. Smoking also wrinkles the
skin around the eyes and mouth.

Alcohol and caffeine are diuretics that
force moisture out of your system and age
the skin.

Dec 1992 May 2005
Actress Melanie Griffith has
smoked for yearsand it shows.
Photos from WireImage.com

35
So now that you know all the details about cell growth, moisture, and the
correlation between healthy living and beautiful skin, let's talk about the best
ways to care for your skin.

Caring For Your Skin

To figure out what you need to do with your
skin, you first need to determine your skin type.

With a clean face under good lights or natural
light, study your complexion for a few minutes
in a mirror.

Start with an examination of the T-Zone. Follow
by looking at the cheeks and eye area.

Take your time and look at the following
characteristics: texture, pore size, blemishes, and
fine lines.

Since your skin type can change over time due
to things like natural aging, change of seasons,
health, and lifestyle, it's important to be in tune
to the needs of your skin at any given time and
care for it accordingly.

The T-Zone is the t-shaped region
of the face that includes the
forehead, nose and chin. The skin
here is often different from skin
in the cheek and eye areas
because it is usually somewhat
oilier than the rest of the face.

Here are the characteristics of the different types of skin:

NORMAL SKIN
"Normal" skin is the least common skin type; most people have combination
skin. But if you're one of those lucky few who do have normal skin, you'll
recognize it by these characteristics:

Uniform texture and pigmentation
Clear, soft, and supple appearance
No oily sheen or dry spots
Few or no blemishes
Small pore size
Few or no lines

36
The goal is to maintain balance. Recommended skin care regime:

Wash with a gentle, water-soluble cleanser twice a day
Apply moisturizer after cleansing
Use sunscreen every day
Use masks and exfoliate occasionally

When your skin doesnt cause you problems, its easy to neglect it but dont!
If you keep up a simple regime of cleaning and moisturizing, youll be able to
maintain that perfect skin for years to come.

DRY SKIN
Dry skin occurs when the body fails to produce enough sebum (oil) to keep the
skin moisturized. It feels dry and flaky to the touch, lacks suppleness, and tends
to wrinkle easily. Common in older people, dry skin can also be caused by cold
weather, hot sun, and low humidity.

You probably have dry skin if:

Your skin appears taut, fragile, or
dull
Your forehead is prone to fine
lines
You have fine pores
Blemishes are rare
Your skin is prone to flaking
You have fine lines around your
eyes and mouth

The goal is to keep the dry areas moist.
Recommended skin care regime:

Wash face at night only with a
non-drying product
Apply rich moisturizer twice a
day
Use sunscreen every day
Use a retinal or alpha-hydroxy
product once a week

Mature skin is like dry skin, only drier,
thinner, and with more lines. Since
mature skin doesn't retain moisture, it
needs emollient-enriched moisturizers
that supply adequate oil and help bind
water to skin.

37

Avoid skin products that contain alcohol and keep masks, peels, and exfoliations
to a minimum. Using too many products too often will further dry the skin.

OILY SKIN
Oily skin occurs when the body produces an excess of sebum (oil), usually in the
T-Zone. It can look shiny and feel oily and is prone to blackheads and acne.

You probably have oily skin if:

You have an oily sheen throughout the day
Enlarged pores, especially on the nose and chin
A lot of blackheads
Frequent breakouts
Your skin does not hold makeup well
The skin appears soft and supple around the eyes
There are minimal fine lines around the eyes and mouth

The goal is to clean the skin without stripping it of essential oils. Recommended
skin care regime:

Wash skin twice daily with a non-soap cleanser designed for oily skin
If you have frequent breakouts, try a cleanser with salicylic acid
Use light moisturizers that are oil-free and non-comedogenic
Use oil-free sunscreen every day
Exfoliate and use masks once a week or as needed

Many people with oily skin tend to skip the moisturizer in their regime. Do so
with caution. You can still get wrinkles if you have oily skin, so pay attention to
how your skin feels. If it feels tight and dry, add moisturizer.

COMBINATION SKIN
Combination skin is perhaps the most common type of skin, with a combination
of two types of skin on the face. Some parts may be normal to dry or normal to
oily, and it can be tricky to care for. You probably have combination skin if:

Skin tends to by oily or dry in the T-zone with normal skin on the cheeks
You tend to have enlarged pores on the nose and chin

38
Cheeks may feel dry or very dry, depending on the weather

The goal is to balance care of the normal skin with the oily or dry skin.
Recommended skin care regime:

Wash face twice a day with a gentle, non-soap cleanser
Apply a light-weight, oil-free moisturizer to the oily parts and a rich
moisturizer to the dry parts twice a day
Apply oil-free sunscreen every day
Exfoliate with alpha-hydroxy acids once a week or as needed

Taking care of two types of skin on one face can be a challenge, but its worth
the effort to maintain a calm, clear complexion.

SENSITIVE SKIN
Sensitive skin is thin and fine-textured and tends to be found most frequently in
natural blondes and red-heads. Sensitive skin burns easily, becomes red in the
cold, and reacts strongly to abrasive products.

You probably have sensitive skin if:

You burn easily in the sun
Your skin turns red in cold weather or in strong wind
You sometimes have adverse and/or allergic reactions to substances like
makeup, soaps, alcohol, sunscreen, perfume, and certain fabrics
You have thin, fine-textured skin

Because the skin is thin and sensitive, its important to read labels carefully
when looking for products. Recommended skin care regime:

Wash with a gentle fragrance-free, dye-free cleanser. Avoid anything with
alcohol or acids
Use a gentle, scent-free moisturizer
Use an unscented, non-comedogenic sunscreen; avoid products with
PABA
Apply cream antioxidants once a week or as needed

39
Seasonal Skin Care

Once you get the daily basics down, you need to be aware that you skin can act
differently in summer and winter. Too much heat and humidity can make skin
go from normal to oily seemingly overnight, just as cold weather and dry central
heat can dry out otherwise normal skin. So keep those extremes in mind each
season -- or if you travel to a climate that has temperatures very different from
where you live.

SUMMER SKIN CARE

When the temperature heats up and youre lounging in the sun, you can find
yourself with oily skin because of the heat and humidity -- or dry, sun-damaged
skin from too much time in the water and sun. In general:

Wash carefully to clean excess oil and apply moisturizer as needed.

Use Lighter Moisturizer

Sebum oil production general increases in the heat, so switch to a lighter
formulation of moisturizer than you use in the dead of winter.

Except

If youre in the water or out in the sun a lot, moisturize with a
heavier formulation to help put back essential oils. If your
skin feels particularly dry, try a soothing moisturizing mask.

Use Sunscreen

Whatever your skin color, whatever your skin type, the sun will cause you to
age. Protect your body against its rays and avoid its harmful effects.

Treat Sunburn Seriously

There are some great after-sun products on the market that can help soothe
sunburn. Use them. Then stay out of the sun for a few days to give the burned
areas a chance to heal.

40
WINTER SKIN CARE

Dry, cold air will rob your skin of essential moisture, leaving you feeling tight
and dry. So stop the itching and unnecessary aging before the coldest
weather sets in.

Moisturize

Whatever your skin type, you need to moisturize in the winter. Heaters and
furnaces dry the air they heat and cause your skin to dry even more. The colder
it is, the more often they run, and the more moisture that gets sucked from your
skin. Thats why your face feels taut and your lips crack so often this time of
year. If you can, use a humidifier during the winter to add moisture back to the
air.

Bathe Less Often

If you have normal or dry skin, consider bathing less oftensay every other day
instead of every day. Excessive bathing can strip the skin of oil and cause it to
crack and peel.

Also, since many bath soaps are drying to the skin, you may want to switch to a
cream cleanser this time of year. Be wary of deodorants and creams that contain
alcohol, which can also be very drying. Use a moisturizing skin cream that does
not contain perfumes (perfume contains alcohol), especially after bathing.

Drink Plenty of Water

I knowyoure tired of this one, but its true. Hydrate from within, and keep
your skin soft and supple. Want another reason? It will fill up your stomach and
keep you from snacking as much. Youll fit into your swimsuit more easily
come summer time.

Dont Forget the Sun Screen

Although there are fewer hours of sunlight during the winter, damage from the
sun is still a concern. Always use sunscreen with a SPF of 15 or greater when
out in the sun for any duration.

41
If you snow ski, sunscreen becomes extra important. The sun's rays are reflected
off the shiny surface of snow and ice, and can be almost as intense as the
summer sun. Yes, you can get sunburned. Whats more, the altitude puts you
that much closer to the sun, so this extra step is a must for healthy skin.

If you tend to forget about daily sun protection, select makeup with sun-blocking
properties. There are many on the market that contain both SPF and UVA and
UVB protection, so why not go the all-in-one route and give yourself one less
thing to worry about?

NOTE TO TRAVELERS: If youll be traveling to a region different than your
own, remember that you may need to adjust your skin care again at your new
destination. If youll be heading to the mountains for some skiing, for example,
stock up on the moisturizer, sun screen, and lip balm. If youll be relaxing in the
tropics away from the cold, take lighter moisturizers and plenty of sunscreen.

Keeping your skin soft and supple during the cold winter months can be a
challenge, particularly if youre trying to do it with products more suitable to
warm weather. Go lighter on the cleansers, heavier on the moisturizers, and
always use plenty of sunscreen.

Acne and Rosacea

Now that weve talked about the different types of skin, lets take a look at two
of the most common skin care problems people encounter: acne and rosacea.
ACNE
Acne is the term used to describe plugged
pores (blackheads and whiteheads),
pimples, and deeper lumps (cysts and
nodules) that occur on the face, neck, chest,
back, and upper arms. Nearly 100% of
people between the ages of 12 and 17 have
at least an occasional whitehead,
blackhead, or pimple, regardless of race or
ethnicity. While many are able to control
them with over-the-counter solutions,
approximately 40% of teenagers turn to a

Normal follicle

42
dermatologist for help.

Boys tend to get acne worse than girls, but
are less likely to seek professional help.
Girls, on the other hand, tend to get acne
more intermittently due to hormonal
changes associated with their menstrual
cycle, and with the use of cosmetics. For
some, it may last their entire reproductive
life.

Whitehead comedone

Pictures courtesy of Acne.org
Hormones

Studies reveal that many menstruation-age women tend to see an increase in
acne the week before they menstruate, and may experience breakouts for 7 to 10
days. While many women with chronic acne see an improvement during
pregnancy, some breakout more than ever while theyre pregnant. Its directly
attributed to the levels of estrogen and progestin in their bodies, and can be
treated with hormone therapy.

Medication

Some medications can also contribute to acne, particularly those containing
hormones. Typical culprits include:

Testosterone
Gonadotrophin
Anabolic Steroids
Corticosteroids
Anti-epileptic
Anti-tuberculosis
Lithium
Cyclosporin
Medications containing iodine or bromine

Always tell your dermatologist which medication youre taking in order to
ensure the best care possible.

43
Genetics

Does acne run in families? Since some families do seem to suffer from it more
than others, it certainly appears to be the case. But while many scientists agree
that there is an apparent genetic tendency, there is no acne gene. The best
thing a person with a familial history of bad acne can do is to consult a
dermatologist to help moderate the disease.

Cosmetics

Many people break out simply because theyre either allergic to the cosmetics
they use or the product clogs their pores. Others find that dirty makeup tools
sponges, brushes, fingertipscan aggravate their condition.

If you suffer from acne, make sure that the products you use are non-
comedogenic -- meaning that they dont cause comedones (a.k.a. pimples). The
package should say non-comedogenic; if it doesnt, do NOT assume that it is.
Whats more, even if it says its non-comedogenic, discontinue use if you break
out. Some combinations of products can plug pores, even if theyre not
supposed to.

Finally, regularly clean or replace your application tools. Why contribute to the
problem any more than necessary?

How to Combat Acne

One of the first things most people do when they see a whitehead or blackhead
on their skin is get close to the mirror, put fingers on either side of the offending
eruption, and squeeze like theres no tomorrow. Its one of those knee-jerk
reactions, like stomping on the brakes when your car starts spinning on a patch
of ice.

Dont do it.

Not only will you risk spreading the contents of the clogged pore to the skin
surrounding the pimple, aggressive squeezing can damage your skin. Oh, you
may think youre getting away with it in your teens and twenties, but your skin
will start to tell the tale by the time youre 35. And its not pretty.

So what can you do instead?

44
Here are the basic guidelines recommended by dermatologists:

1. Do NOT pop, squeeze, or pick acne. Comedones should only be removed
by an experienced health care professional.

2. Gently wash your face twice a day with mild cleanser and pat dry.
Vigorous scrubbing can irritate your skin and even cause comedones to
break, spreading their contents. Use acne products to treat acne dont try
to scrub off pimples.

3. Use non-comedogenic cosmetics and toiletries.

4. Avoid things that can irritate your acne, like oils, airborne grease,
perfumes, fingernail polish, resting your head in your hand, etc. Also be
sure to change your towels, pillowcase, and sheets regularly.

5. Give acne products time to do their job. While you may hope your pimple
clears up overnight, it might actually take a few days or a week. Ask your
dermatologist or pharmacist how long it should take for the product to
work.

6. Since some acne products can make skin UV sensitive, avoid sunlight and
tanning booths while using them. Wear protective clothing and use ample
sunscreen.

There are many good acne treatment products on the market including:

Proactiv Solution
www.proactive.com

Murad Acne Complex Kit
www.sephora.com

What if your acne doesnt respond to over-the-counter treatments? Then consult
a dermatologist. There are lots of new formulations that are available by
prescription. Youll no doubt find the one thats right for you.

So whats the bottom line with acne?

Everyone gets some form of acne at some point in her life. If you know the
triggersthings like hormones, medication, and cosmeticsyou can work with

45
your dermatologist to manage your breakouts with ease. Use cosmetics
sparingly, particularly if you have a history of acne, and discontinue use
promptly if breakouts occur.

You may not be able to eliminate acne, but you can certainly manage and
minimize its impact.

ROSACEA
Rosacea [roh-ZAY-sha] is often confused with acne because
it causes facial redness and swelling. While scientists still
dont know what causes the disease, both heredity and
environmental factors seem to play a part. Also, fair skinned,
blue-eyed people tend to contract roseacea more than any
other group.

From Rosacea.org

Many who have the disease dont know they have it. Their face becomes red
and acne-like, and they tend to blush or flush easily. Over time, it progresses to
a persistent redness, with pimples and visible blood vessels in the center of the
face that might eventually involve the cheeks, forehead, chin, and nose. Famous
rosacea suffers include W.C. Fields and former President Clinton.

About half the people who have rosacea get it around the eyes and on the
eyelids. They might also experience burning and grittiness of the eyesknown
as conjunctivitisand find that their vision blurs and their eyes become
bloodshot. If the condition goes untreated, it can lead to serious vision
problems.

So what triggers rosacea?

Sun exposure, emotional stress, alcohol, spicy foods, exercise, cold wind, and
hot food, drinks, and baths can all lead to a breakout. Even persistent coughing
has been known to trigger the condition.

While rosacea can be controlled by medication and lifestyle changes, its best
done under a dermatologists supervision. While it mimics other skin care
conditions, over-the-counter solutions do not work well on rosacea. Early
diagnosis and treatment are the keys to preventing serious harm and extensive
scarring.

46

Skin Care as You Age

You can tell yourself that youre not aging, my brother told me on his 40
th

birthday, But when you see your kids grow and change, you cant deny the
passage of time.

Nor should you.

While you may look and feel the same as you did ten or fifteen years ago, your
bodys needs are changing. Just as you transformed from a girl into a woman
during puberty, so will you change as your menstrual cycles end. The raging
hormones that sent your feelings and acne into overdrive as a teenager will have
an equally profound effect on your body before, during, and after menopause.

Knowing whats going on with your skin during all of this can have a huge
impact on how you care for it. Dont use the same products year after year JUST
because thats what youve always used. Give it more thought than that,
particularly if your skin is suddenly not responding as expected to a product
youve used for a long time.

Instead, if you adapt your skin care to mirror your bodys needs as the years
pass, you can stave off the effects of hormonal changes and look younger longer.
Theres no need to be over the hill at 40 anymore, thanks to the wonders of
science. Determine what your skin needs and treat it accordingly. Youll be
astounded by the results.

To get an idea of how your skin changes, heres what happens as the decades
pass:

20s

In your 20s, your skins top layer renews every three
weeks. You may still get pimples like you did as a teen,
but they tend to go quickly because of your rapid cell
turnover. Keep makeup light and in line with your skin
type (dry, normal, oily). Also start to take care of the
delicate skin around your eyes. To keep skin healthy and
sufficiently moisturized, use a mild glycolic or salicylic
acid-based face cream at night.

Ziyi Zhang

47

30s

In your 30s, cell turnover slows, leaving you with an
uneven skin tone. Opt for concealer to even things out, and
adapt your skin care to include retinoid, a Vitamin A
derivative thats available in many skin care lines.
Continue to take extra special care of the skin around your
eyes.

Cate Blanchett
40s

In your 40s, estrogen levels fall and your skin starts to dry
out. You may also start to gain weight from the foods
youve always eaten as a result of the lower hormone
levels, becoming thick through the middle. Reduce the
amounts of carbohydrates you eat (chips, potatoes,
desserts), increase the amount of protein you eat (meat,
fish, dairy), and fill your skin care drawer with hydrating
products. For night, try an anti-aging cream that contains
phytoestrogens such as soy or wild yam. And dont forget
about the skin on your neck moisturize, or it will start to
show age soon enough.

Angela Bassett
50s

In your 50s, your skin may begin to sag as diminished
estrogen levels reduce your skin cell renewal rate to a
snails pace. To combat lines and wrinkles that may appear
around the eyes, nose and mouth, try a prescription-strength
retinoid to minimize wrinkles and improve skin tone. Also
continue to adapt your moisturize to drier and drier skin,
including that around your eyes and neck.

Ellen Barkin

48

60s +

In your 60s, 70s, and 80s, normal to dry skin are most
common and age spots may be very noticeable. How you
cared for your skin in your youth will become obvious now,
including acne scars, sun damage, and smoking. Increase
elasticity with plenty of moisturizer, including some retinol
products

Joan Collins
Images courtesy of WireImage.com

So what can you do every day to maintain a youthful glow? We talked about
some of these earlier:

1. Stay Out of the Sun

Sun damage is the #1 reason why skin ages quickly. Theres no such
thing as a healthy tan, so dont fool yourself. Apply sunscreen
diligently when youre out in the sun, and use a self-tanner if you want the
look of a tan without the skin damage that comes with it.

2. Dont Smoke

Besides the obvious health risks of cancer, osteoporosis, respiratory
disease, and the like, nicotine also constricts the blood vessels, which
interferes with a healthy circulatory system. The result? Saggy, puffy,
sallow-looking skin that suddenly appears in the late 30s or early 40s in
people who started smoking in their teens. If you smoke, do yourself a
favor: quit!

3. Drink Alcohol in Moderation

Alcohol, like nicotine, constricts the blood vessels. When used in high
doses for a long period of time, it can also make skin saggy, puffy, and
sallow-looking, aging it before its time. Use in moderation or not at all.

4. Eat a Balanced Diet

Remember the food pyramid that you learned about in grade school?

49
Grains, meats, fruits, vegetables, and dairy are all essential for a healthy
body and luminous skin. Skip the chocolate, go light on the lattes, and
avoid foods with ingredients you cant pronounce. Your budget,
waistline, and skin will all thank you for it.

5. Get Plenty of Rest

If you took a poll around your office or social circle, youd probably find
that most of the people would describe themselves as sleep deprived.
You can only burn the candle at both ends for so long before it takes its
toll and ages you before your time. Schedule time to yourself, and aim for
the recommended eight hours of sleep. Youll be amazed how refreshed
youll feel.

Adjusting your skin care as you age isnt difficult, and the result can be
profound. Theres no need to glance in the mirror one day when youre in your
50s and wonder who in the world that old lady is looking back at you. Give
your skin the nourishment it needs as the years pass and keep people guessing
about your true age.

Remember: This is the only skin you get. If you dont take care of it, no one
will.

Product Glossary

Skin care is a multi-billion dollar industry, and there seems like there are a
billion products on the market. Do you need all of them? No. In fact, using too
many peels or exfoliants can strip the skin of essential oils, drying it out, while
slathering on too much oil-ladened moisturizer can clog pores and lead to
breakouts. The key is moderation. Here is what you should have on hand for
daily use:

Cleanser, to remove dirt, makeup, excess oils, pollutants, etc.

Toner, to remove any residue left behind from the cleansing step and to
prepare the skin for moisturizing (usually appropriate for oily skin or
combination oily skin)

50
Moisturizer, to hydrate skin and create a barrier that slows natural
moisture loss

Sunscreen, to protect the skin from harmful UV rays that age and break
down skin. Many moisturizers and makeup foundations have sunscreen
built right in these days.

Once you have your daily routine down with products that work well for your
skin type, youre well on your way to beautiful skin. But do you need anything
else? Maybe. It depends on special needs you may have.

Other products on the market that you might use on a daily or occasional basis
might include:

Eye Makeup Remover is specially formulated to dissolve makeup,
including waterproof mascara. Eye makeup removers are gentler on the
delicate eye area than most face cleansers.

Eye Balms are moisturizers specifically
formulated for use around the delicate eye area,
and can help slow aging in the area for those
with dry or normal skin.

Exfoliating Scrubs help accelerate the skin's
natural exfoliation process without scratching the
skin's surface. They can also give a quick boost
to tired, dull-looking skin.
TIP

When applying products to
the eye area, use the fourth
finger of your hand, the
one nearest the pinky. Its
the weakest finger and will
apply the least amount of
pressure to the delicate eye
area.

Deep Cleansing Masks are usually made with special clays, and they are
particularly beneficial when skin feels oily. They cleanse, purify, and
unclog pores. Do NOT use one on the same day you use an exfoliating
scrub, as you may strip your skin of essential oils.

Hydrating Masks are really beneficial when the skin is dry and
dehydrated, like in the dead of winter when you're stuck inside with hot,
dry central heat.

Alpha Hydroxy Formulas usually tighten and tone the skin's surface
while enhancing the performance of regular moisturizers.

51
Night Time Moisturizers are designed to revitalize dry skin while you
sleep; heavy-duty night time treatments are becoming more and more
popular with baby boomers.

So whats the key to successful skin care? Moderation. Again, don't suffocate
dry skin with the heaviest moisturizer you can find or strip oily skin of every
drop of oil. Your goal is moisturize where dry, and remove excess oil as
necessary without drowning or over processing your skin with products.

Proceed slowly when trying new products, particularly if you have sensitive
skin. Your skin may react favorably or negatively within minutes of trying the
new product, or it may take a couple of days to rebel. Don't change your entire
skin care regime the week before your wedding, or your big silver anniversary
bash, for example, or you could have a crisis on your hands.

Do Higher Priced Products Deliver Higher Quality?

If you pay premium prices for cosmetics and skin care, you no doubt do so
because you feel that the higher price translates to higher quality goods.
Department store brands MUST be better than drugstore brands, or they
wouldnt charge so much more for them -- right?

Not necessarily, says consumer advocate Paula Begoun, author of The Beauty
Bible and Dont Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me. Price has its own
tricky, elusive attraction. The ingredient list is the only place where a consumer
can readily find the truth about what she is buying.

That said, many high priced brands cite exotic ingredients like bovine extraction,
wild yam extract, emu oil, royal jelly, and the like to justify the sometimes
downright outrageous price tags they put on their goods. But if you study the
ingredient list, youll often find these special items listed near the bottom of the
list, meaning that theyre only present in trace amounts. Is it enough to justify
the price? Probably not, according to Begoun.

So why the huge difference in price?

Often, it has nothing to do with the product, but everything to do with the
packaging, advertising, store rental, and sales staff required to get the product to
you. Theres a certain cachet involved with buying high-priced cosmetics at an

52
exclusive store, and the luxury brands darn well know it. In fact, theyve worked
hard to cultivate the perception.

Have you ever noticed that department store cosmetics never go on sale? Theyll
offer free gifts with purchases over a certain amount, but the cosmetics
themselves are never discounted. Ever.

Thats because while consumers will happily snap up their favorite designer
apparel and accessories on sale at department stores, this same type of
discounting just doesnt translate well to the cosmetics counter. It cheapens
them in the consumers eyes, so its not done.

Whats more, if you think about it, most department stores participate in price
fixing of cosmetics, so you end up paying the same price for the same brand
whether you buy it at Neiman Marcus, Macys, Nordstroms, or wherever. No,
its not talked about to avoid raising questions of antitrust, but yes, it does
happen.

Want yet another head scratcher on this price versus quality issue? Take a look
at just who owns whom in the cosmetics game:

Este Lauder

Aramis
Aveda
Bobbi Brown
Clinique
Crme de la Mer
Tommy Hilfiger
Jane
M.A.C.
Origins
Prescriptives
Stila
LOreal

BioMedic
Biotherm
Lancme
La Roche Posay
Maybelline
Helena Rubinstein
Vichy

Procter & Gamble

Cover Girl
Max Factor
Olay

Johnson & Johnson

Aveeno
Clean & Clear
Neutrogena
RoC

So does a company like LOreal, who owns both department store brands and
discount store brands, buy the raw materials for their products from different
manufacturers, based on the end usage?

53
No, according to Begoun. In fact, there are no gradations on most cosmetic
ingredients. Either the products are approved for use in the countries where
theyre sold, or theyre not.

Now the crux in all of this is that most women tend to be very brand loyal.
Theyll find a brand of cleanser, moisturizer, mascara, or lipstick that they really
like, for example, and because the sales clerk tells them that the products in the
line work best with the other products in the line, they faithfully buy a range of
products from that line and then cant figure out why they dont like some of
them.

It all goes back to the ingredient list. Cosmetic lines are made to appeal to a vast
array of skin types. So while some of the products may work beautifully for
you, others may not. Dont despair. Stick with the ones you like, return or
dispose of the ones you dont.

The key is to EDUCATE YOURSELF. If you dont, youll spend a lot more
money than you need to for status brands that may work for you at best, or create
an adverse reaction on your skin at worst.

To benefit from others experiences BEFORE you plunk down your hard-earned
money at a cosmetics counter, take a few minutes to peruse some of the skincare
and makeup review sites on the web, including:

CosmeticConnection.com
http://www.cosmeticconnection.com

CosmeticsCop.com
http://www.cosmeticscop.com

MakeupAlley.com
http://www.makeupalley.com

Just because a skincare or makeup line costs a lot of money DOESNT
necessarily mean youre getting a superior product. Determine your skins needs
(whether it be dry, oily, acne-prone, or whatever), learn what products help or
exacerbate the situation, and start reading labels. You may be able to find
precisely what you need at a price that doesnt make you see red.

54
Great Skin Care Sites

Looking for more information on getting your skin in tip-top shape? Try some
of these sites:

Neutrogena
http://www.caringforyourskin.com

Read articles, take a skin evaluation test, and stroll through their online library of
skin care problems and solutions.

DermNet NZ
http://www.dermnet.org.nz/index.html

Looking for more information about a skin condition you have? Check out this
comprehensive resource from The New Zealand Dermatological Society.

Skinema
http://www.skinema.com/

Vail Reese, MD, a dermatologist and movie buff, has put together a fun and
informative site about skin care conditions in the movies. What kind of skin
does the villain always have? What do you look for in a heroines complexion?
See for yourself at Skinema.com.

So...there you have it. Lots of information, but well worth learning:

Find your skin type
Develop a daily routine the works
Treat trouble spots
Consider seasonal changes
Consider changes as you age

If you do that, youll have beautiful skin for years.

55

THE BASICS OF MAKEUP
Beauty, to me, is about being comfortable
in your own skin. That, or kick-ass red lipstick.
--Gwyneth Paltrow

Women have been using makeup since Greek and Roman times to enhance their
features and downplay their negative attributes. The premise is still true today,
but a glance around any shopping mall, grocery store, or business office shows
that while some women understand how to apply makeup and use it to their
advantage, just as many dont.

Too much makeup says cheap and unsuitable. Too little says
incomplete or unsophisticated. Inappropriate or incorrectly
applied color or placement says unschooled or outdated.

Since studies show that women in the corporate world who
wear properly applied makeup earn 20 percent more than
women who don't, taking a little time to polish your business
face could mean a nice increase in your income.

Now obviously there are times when little or no makeup is appropriate, like
when exercising, swimming, sleeping, etc. But if you want to take advantage of
all the opportunities that come your way, knowing how to appropriately apply
makeup for different situations will help you reach your goals faster. You dont
wear the same clothes and shoes for all your activities; neither should you wear
the same makeup for everything.

No makeup needed
when exercising

Soft and simple works
for most
informal situations

Powerful business
attire calls for a
strong face

Go glam for evening
3

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So where do you begin to learn about makeup?

With color.

The Importance of Color

All colors are derived from the three primary hues: red,
yellow, and blue.

Yellow is warm, blue is cool, and red is neither warm
nor cool but in-between. When you add yellow, you
get a warmer tone. When you add blue, you get a
cooler tone.

People can likewise be classified as having either "warm" or "cool" undertones
depending on their unique combination of melanin, carotene, and hemoglobin.
The undertone you're born with never changes; it simply deepens with a tan and
fades with age.

So based on your yellow or blue undertone, you'll look best in colors that are
either yellow or blue based. Your skin, hair, and eyes react to the colors around
them, absorbing colors that match your undertone and reflecting colors that
oppose it. Thats why some brides look great in white but others look better in
ivory. Its also why you look great in some colors and completely washed out in
others.

So what does all of this have to do with makeup?

You need to know your skin tone to find the best makeup colors for you. Ever
struggled to find the right color of foundation or lipstick? Dont know if black
or brown mascara looks better on you? Then determining whether youre a cool
or warm should help clear things right up.

Theres a whole chapter on color and color analysis in Wardrobe Magic, so Ill
direct you there for further details. But heres a thumbnail sketch:

Sometime when youre without makeup and preferably in natural light, hold
up something silver and then something gold against your face (jewelry
works well) as you look into a mirror.

57
Which one looks better against your skin and makes your eyes sparkle?

Do the same thing with a few garments you like and wear all the time and a
few that fit but you never seem to wear.

What do you see?

If you look better in silver than gold, red than orange, and navy blue than
lime green, you probably have blue undertones in your skin and are a cool.

If you look better in gold than silver, orange than red, and lime green than
navy blue, you probably have yellow undertones in your skin, and are a
warm.

Once you determine your undertone, there are a couple of simple rules you need
to keep in mind when putting color on your face:

Match the undertone of the colors you buy to the undertone of your skin.

Wear colors from the same color family. Cool colors look best with other
cool colors, warm colors look best with other warm colors.

Don't "mix and match" the color families, as this young woman did on the left:

This strawberry blonde has yellow
(warm) undertones. Her pale pink
lipstick seemingly drains the color
from her face, making her look pale.

This strawberry blonde has yellow
skin tones, and her yellow-based
makeup and lipstick make her skin
look bright and vibrant.

See what a difference color choice can make? Using an opposing color palette
with your skin tone will make you look washed out.

58
Types of Makeup

Now that we're straight on color, let's take a brief look at the different products
you'll need for that professional look.

Background Makeup

Using background makeup on your face is like preparing a canvas for paint. It
should conceal the imperfections and even out the skin tone without calling
attention to itself.

Foundation

Besides clear, clean skin, the best way to create a flawless background is by
using the right foundation makeup.

First, determine your skin's needs:

If you have normal-to-oily skin or live in a hot, humid
climate, you'll probably want an oil-free or powder
foundation.

If your skin is normal-to-dry or if you live in a dry or
cold climate, a liquid or cream foundation will better
suit.

Second, match your skin tone as closely as possible. Makeup that is too light will
look chalky and mask-like. Foundation that is too dark can accentuate fine lines
and wrinkles.

Foundation should complement your skin's undertone.

Choose a blue-based foundation if your skin is cool with a pink-blue
undertone. Cool colors might have names like ivory, bisque, or mocha.

Choose a warm, yellow-based foundation if your complexion is warm
with a yellow or golden undertone. Warm colors might have names like
honey, beige, or natural.

If you can, try them on a clean face in natural light before you buy to determine
the closest match. If you can't find precisely the color you need, do what makeup

59
artists do: mix colors from the two closest-matching shades. Theres nothing
like a unique formulation to get precisely the right color.

Also remember that facial color can change with the seasons, depending on if
you tan. Foundation color needs to be adjusted accordingly.

Concealer

Concealer provides extra coverage for dark under-eye
circles, birthmarks, blemishes, and any other skin
imperfections. Again, it should match your skin tone
and be formulated for your skin type.

Loose Powder

Loose powder sets foundation and helps it last longer. It's
also great for reducing oily shine any time of day. Use
sparingly if you have dry skin, or look for moisturizing
formulations.

Feature Makeup

Feature makeup goes on after the background has been applied and is used to
enhance eyes, cheeks and lips.

Eye shadow adds shape, color and contour to eyes. Youll
use two or three different shades from the same color family
to highlight and accent your eyes.

Eye Liner outlines, defines and further enhances the eyes.
Some women prefer eyeliner pencils while others swear by
liquid liner. Use whichever you prefer.

Mascara further enhances the eyes by creating thicker, fuller
lashes.

Blush provides natural color and contour to cheeks. It comes
in both cream and powder formulas.

Lipstick adds color to the lips and can include sun block and
or/lip moisturizers to protect and moisturize the lips.

60

Now that you've gathered your arsenal of products, let's go over some basic
application techniques.

Basic Application

Let's begin with foundation.

1. Dot foundation on to forehead, nose,
cheeks, and chin.

2. Using a cosmetic sponge, blend foundation
across forehead, toward the temples, and out
to the hairline.

3. Then blend down the nose, cheeks, and
chin, wrapping and blending away at the
jawline. Always apply in a downward
motion to minimize appearance of facial hair.

4. Make sure foundation is blended carefully,
especially around the nose and eyes.

5. Be sure to bring foundation up to the
bottom lashline.

When applied correctly, foundation should be
invisible and look natural. If foundation is
visibly sitting on the skin, then one of two
things is happening:

1. You've applied too much. Remove excess with a clean sponge.

2. Foundation is too dry for your skin type. Try a different formulation
with a heavier moisture base.

Once youve put on your foundation, you may discover that you need additional
coverage in some areas. Grab your concealer. Use concealer when you want to
downplay skin imperfections like dark circles under the eyes, freckles,
blemishes, etc.

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To conceal a dark area, use a concealer that's
a shade lighter than the skin tone. If youre
trying to hide dark circles under your eyes,
opt for products that are specially designed
for the delicate eye area.

To hide birthmarks, freckles, or blemishes,
use a concealer that's the same shade as your
skin. Avoid oil-based products that might
clog pores.

To hide redness, apply a tinted neutralizer for
your skin tone under your foundation.

Dot concealer on the problem area and blend with fingertips or a cosmetic
sponge. Apply again if necessary.

Don't overcorrect or you'll draw more attention to whatever it is you're trying to
hide.

Once youve smoothed out your complexion and minimized all the
imperfections, its time for a dusting of loose powder. Loose powder sets
foundation and helps minimize shine.

For a light application, dip powder brush
into loose powder. Tap off excess and
dust lightly over face.

For a heavier application, use a powder
puff and work powder into foundation
with a patting and rolling motion. Brush
away any excess with your powder
brush.

Be sure to blend everything carefully. Too much loose powder will cake in fine
lines and look chalky and mask-like.

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Because loose powder is messy, dont carry it around in
your handbag for touch-ups during the day. Instead, opt
for a pressed powder compact instead.

Once you have the background makeup in place, it's time to move to your
feature colors.

Now earlier I said that you should vary your makeup for the different activities
in your life, like downtime, work, and special occasions. You should also keep
current with different colors and area emphasis (eyes, lips), since those vary
from season to season in the fashion industry. Doing so will allow you to look
current and trendy without spending a lot of money to do so.

For example, you can use makeup to:

Call attention to the eyes or to the lips or match face to clothes

Dont fall into a makeup rut. Use different makeup color and application
techniques to draw attention to your assets.

That said, lets look at some basic, day-to-day ways to apply feature makeup.

Eyebrows frame the eyes and are one of the most expressive features of the face.
Well talk about eyebrows in more detail in a later chapter, so Ill just give you
some basic guidelines here:

Brush brows with an eyebrow brush to groom and shape.

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Tweeze any hairs that obviously lie outside of the
brow's natural shape.

Use an eyebrow pencil in a shade similar to your hair
to add color to brows that are colorless, require shape
correction, or to fill in sparse areas.

Eye shadow, eye liner, and mascara can produce a number of effects,
depending on how it's applied.

Heres a basic two-shade design that you can use for everyday wear.

1. Apply a light shade from lashline to brow.

2. Apply a medium to dark shade in the crease and
blend up toward the brow bone. After applying
color, use an eye pencil to further outline, define,
and enhance the eyes. Experiment with different
colors to brighten and accent the eyes.

3. The simplest technique is to line the eyes close
to the lashline to shape and enhance.

A thin line at the base of the lashes makes lashes
appear thicker. A thick line gives eyes more drama.

4. Blend with a foam-tip smudger to soften the
line.

5. Opt for liquid liner if you want a more dramatic
effect.

Use mascara to emphasize long lashes or enhance
short or light lashes.

6. Tilt head back and apply mascara to upper
lashes with upward, rotating strokes. Then tilt head
forward to apply mascara to lower lashes. Allow
mascara to dry, then add a second coat, if desired.

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Cheek color is designed to give a natural and subtle glow to the cheeks while
also adding contour to the face. You can match it to your clothing, if you're so
inclined, or you can stick with the same neutral shade if that suits your fancy.
Cheek color should appear as a natural, light flush, and should not be obvious.

To apply, locate the cheek bone and apply
cheek color directly underneath, blending up
slightly.

Blush should not be placed any lower than the
nose and no further in than the edge of the iris.

Keep blush away from the center of the face.
Color applied too close to the nose closes in
the face.

Don't apply blush in the area under the eyes
because it will appear as a dark circle.

Remember to always dust-not paint-cheek
color on to cheeks. Keep colors natural and
subtle.

If you prefer cream blush, dot blush in an arc
along cheekbone using a cosmetic sponge or
finger. Extend color from just under the pupil
of the eye out to the hairline, and blend.

For fade-proof color, apply cream blush, loose powder, powder blush, and loose
powder again. Make sure blush is applied lightly and is well-blended to avoid
any harsh lines.

Use a cotton ball or loose powder puff to blend the edges of cheek color into the
surrounding skin.

Lip color is that all-important finishing touch that pulls your
look together. Many women depend on lip color more than
any other cosmetic to add brightness and to freshen up their
appearance. Often, it's the last thing checked and the first
thing renewed in a spare moment. What's more, changing
colors is the fastest way to give a different look.

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To apply, begin by choosing a lip liner that
most closely matches your intended lipstick
color. Lining lips gives shape and definition to
the mouth. But dont do what was so popular in
the late 1980s: lining lips with a dark color
and filling in with a much lighter color. That
style is outdated.

Place two dots on the upper lip on the area
called the cupid's bow. Directly below, place
two more dots on the lower lip. Then join the
dots starting from the upper lip and working
down and around.

Using a lip brush, apply your color inside and on the line you created with your
lip liner.

That's it! Use these few steps for your most basic look. With a little practice,
you can get application time down to five minutes or less.

Evening Makeup

Whats the difference between daytime and evening makeup? The lighting! Or
more specifically, how natural or artificial lighting determines how colors are
perceived.

In the daytime, natural light and the intense artificial lighting found in most
office buildings render colors more intenselywhich means that a little color
goes a long way. If you put on an intense color of eye shadow or lipstick, it will
be as clear as a bell to those who see it.

But darkness subdues colors. In order to appear natural in evening light, you
need to exaggerate color and shape in order for them to be seen. Heres how you
do that:

1. Be heavier-handed for evening. Use more product or
more intense color to bring out your eyes or your mouth.
Remember: emphasize your eyes OR your mouth...not both
at the same time. People wont know where to look first.

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2. Add glimmer and sparkle. Try that sparkling eye shadow you picked up on
sale and arent sure what to do with. Dust your dcolletage and shoulders with
body glitter. Try that silver lipstick youve been thinking about.

3. Lay on the drama. Try some false eyelashes to make your
eyelashes look longer and your eyes larger. Copy the intense
eye makeup youve seen in your favorite fashion magazine.
Or wear the most intense red lipstick you can find that matches
your skin tone.

Evening is a fun time to get daring with clothes, hair, and makeup, so go for it.
The more you play with makeup, the more you learn about it. So what if you
dont like it? Wash it off! Its one of the easiest, regret-free ways to change
your look. Give it a try!

Makeup as You Age

Once you have the basic application down, what should you think about as the
years pass? Lots of things. Just as your body changes over time, so should your
makeup products and routine. Here are some things to consider:

20s

Youre just coming into your own and learning who you
are. Experiment with different trends and different types
of products and learn what looks good on you and what
doesnt. When in doubt, remember that mascara (black
for cool skin tones, brown for warm) and translucent
powder are appropriate for any occasion.

Keira Knightley

30s

Still play around with the trends, certainly, but by now you
should have a good idea of what works for you and what
doesnt. Work on creating a signature look with your
greatest asset, like your eyes or lips. Youre a grownup --
dont be afraid to be known for something.

Gwen Stefani

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40s

Update your signature style with a slightly toned-down
look. As your skin begins to show the signs of age, you
still want to call attention to your assets, but not to the
imperfections that seem to sprout around this time, like
creases around the eyes or mouth. Once you find the
perfect concealer, you and your makeup should get along
just fine.

Felicity Huffman
50s

How do you conceal all those lines and wrinkles that have
suddenly appeared? By keeping them AWAY from
concealers and powders. Thats right. As you age, less
becomes more. Moisturize more, conceal less, and youll
discover that youll look and feel younger. Dont hide
behind makeup now it will settle into lines and make
you appear older.

Jane Seymour
60s +

Repeat this word: neutrals. Thats what you want to have
in your makeup drawer once you hit the big 6-0, because
they work well with aging skin without calling attention to
lines and wrinkles. Bright colors will call attention to the
lines around them; neutrals wont. So get a current
haircut, moisturize heavily, and opt for neutral colors
and look years younger than you are.

Tina Turner

Looking great as the years pass doesnt have to be traumatic. Find a look thats
uniquely yours and stay with it, adjusting as necessary as your skin ages. Its the
secret to looking great at any age.

Makeup Drawer Maintenance

If its been awhile since youve gone through your makeup drawer or sifted
through the quick fix bag in your purse or even ventured into that shoebox of

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makeup you keep under your bathroom sink, let me give you a good reason to do
so: its probably expired.

Yep, makeup has a shelf life.

You may never know that by looking at the label
because its not required by law to reveal that on the
packaging. But industry experts and dermatologists
agree that makeup can be easily contaminated.

When left unattended for months on end, it can spoil, discolor, and lose its
potency. When used on moist skin, then closed up and tucked away in a dark
purse or drawer, it can become an incubator for bacteriawhich may lead to
yeast, fungi, and mold. Want to put those kinds of things on your skin? No,
probably not.

So how do you know if your makeup has gone bad? Heres a guide to shelf life
and spoilage indicators for various products:

MAKEUP SHELF LIFE

Foundation

Liquid Foundation lasts 3-6 months; cream foundation, 4-6 months.

Bottled foundation should last 3-6 months, but wide
mouthed jars can expose the product to more air and
should probably be tossed sooner. Always apply with a
sponge instead of your fingers. You'll know it's time to
purchase a new bottle when the ingredients begin to settle
or separate, the texture thickens or thins, or it develops a
clay-like smell.

Concealer

Concealer lasts 6-8 months when dispensed from a tube; can last longer when in
a large pencil-size format. As with liquid foundation, apply liquid concealer
with a sponge instead of fingertips. Pencil concealers can be applied directly to
face, but sharpen regularly to keep bacteria to a minimum.

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Lipstick

Lipstick typically lasts one to three years. Oil-based lipsticks are a little less
prone to contamination and tend to last longer when stored in the refrigerator.
Signs of spoilage include color change or rancid smell. If it stings on application,
or has a particularly nasty taste, throw it out.

Eye & Lip Pencils

Eye and lip pencils can last one to three years because the wax tends to minimize
bacteria growth. Sharpen pencils once a week and keep the cap on when not in
use to inhibit microbiotic growth. If the product is dry or crumbles in use, its
time to throw it away.

Mascara

Mascara should be replaced every three months, just like
your toothbrush. Never touch anything but your lashes
with the brush, and dont pump the applicator, since air
tends to push bacteria back into the tube. Never share
mascara your mascara with others.

Loose Powder

Loose powder can last for years, but may deteriorate if overexposed to light or
heat. Keep tightly closed when not in use. If it looks lumpy or clumps, it's come
into contact moisture and should be discarded.

Powder Compacts for Face/Cheek/Eye Color

Powder compacts typically last from one to three years. Signs of age include
ghostly color, chalky texture, or cracking.

Nail Polish

Nail polish lasts one to two years, and is sometimes stamped with an expiration
date. Over time, pigments separate, so shaking is necessary. If a good shaking
doesn't mix it, get rid of it. Signs of spoilage include being excessively thick,
dried out, or hard to apply smoothly.

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Perfume

Perfume lasts up to three years. Store it in a cool dark place, out of the reach of
direct sunlight. Watch for darkened color or a vinegary smell.

Natural Cosmetics

Natural cosmetics last about six months. Products labeled as "all natural"
usually contain plant-derived ingredients (which are conducive to bacterial
growth), or have no preservatives, and are therefore prone to spoil more readily
than their synthetic counterparts.

SKIN CARE SHELF LIFE

Facial Cleansers & Moisturizers

These last about six months. Wide-mouth moisturizers, like
wide-mouthed foundations, are more easily contaminated
than pump or small-opening dispensers. If product separates,
changes consistency, or develops an odd smell, discard.

Facial Toners

These can last up to one year. Apply to skin with a sterile cotton ball or pad
instead of a washcloth.

Eye Creams

Eye creams last about one year. If your eyes water, burn, or puff up upon
product usage, immediately discontinue use.

Tools

Just as your skin care and makeup products become contaminated, so too, can
the tools that you use to apply them pick up oil and bacteria. Clean and replace
regularly to ensure hygienic use.

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Makeup Sponges

Opt for inexpensive, disposable makeup sponges to apply foundation and blend
colors, and wash after each use. Replace once every two weeks or if the sponge
begins to tear.

Brushes

Wash natural-bristle brushes once a month and synthetic
brushes once a week. Run the brush bristles under warm
water, and using mild soap or baby shampoo, work into a
slight lather. Rinse brushes under cool running water until the
water runs clear, then wrap the brushes in a clean hand towel
and gently squeeze out any excess water. Lay the brushes flat
and allow them to air dry overnight in a well lit, well
ventilated area.

Keep Down Contamination

So now that youve looked at how to maintain your products, whats the best
way to keep contamination to a minimum? Here are some tips:

1. Always start skin care or makeup application with clean hands.

2. Whenever possible, avoid touching the product in the container by pouring
it out into your hand or by using an applicator.

3. If you pour out too much into your hand, rinse it down the drain; dont try
to put it back into the container.

4. Dont share your products with others.

5. Keep containers tightly closed when not in use.

6. Dont use water, or even worse, saliva, to extend the products use or
return it to its original consistency. Both can introduce bacteria into the
mix and break it down that much faster.

If you buy a product that causes a skin reaction or doesnt really work for you for
whatever reason, try to return it to the store as soon as possible after you

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discover this. You may be able to get your money back, or you may not,
depending on the stores policy.

Whatever you do, dont just shove it to the back of your makeup drawer or
medicine cabinet to deal with later. Not only will it take up space, it will
probably go bad before you do something with it.

So whats the easiest way to avoid such costly mistakes?

Use sample sizes whenever possible when trying new
products. Many skin care lines offer such samples, and
more and more cosmetic companies are following this
trend. I recently picked up a package of 3 lipstick samples
for $1.19, and will probably purchase one of the colors in
a full size version very soon. To find sample sizes of
products youre considering, make a point of routinely
checking the makeup aisle or counter where you usually
buy your cosmetics.

So whats the long and short of maintaining your makeup drawer?

1. Buy products that youll use up before they expire.
2. Discard anything that looks funny, smells funny, or changes consistency.
3. Touch the product as little as possible with your fingers.
4. Clean your application tools regularly.
5. Return or discard anything that doesnt work for you.

If you follow these rules of thumb, youll be more inclined to only buy what you
need, treat it properly, and succeed in getting your moneys worth before it
spoils or looses its potency. Dont gamble with contamination of your skin care
or makeup products; treat them like the personal hygiene products that they are.

Great Makeup Sites

As with skin care, there are several good makeup sites on the web where you can
learn more about makeup products and trends.

Here are some of my favorites:

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Makeup Reviews

Want to try some different brands of makeup but afraid to make a mistake? Start
your investigation on these sites, to see what others have to say:

Cosmetic Connection
http://www.cosmeticconnection.com

E Make Me Up
http://www.emakemeup.com

Makeup 411
http://www.makeup411.com/

Makeup Techniques

Looking for some basic techniques? Try this site:

Makeup Tip
http://www.makeuptip.com

Makeup Super Sites

Where can you find great makeup online? Look here:

My Beauty Center
http://www.mybeautycenter.com

Sephora
http://www.sephora.com

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YOUR EYEBROWS

Discretion is being able to raise your
eyebrow instead of your voice.
--Anonymous

Eyebrows are one of your face's best features. When they're well groomed, they
enhance your eyes, frame your face, and even give you a signature look. But
getting the shape right can take some practice. If you start with the basic shape
that nature intended, youre well on your way to finding the right look.

So does that mean that you shouldnt pluck that Cro-
Magnon uni-brow or fill in those skimpy hairs hooding
your eyes? Not at all. It simply means that if you start
with the basic shape youre given, plucking or filling in as
necessary, youll probably arrive at the most flattering
look. Trying to follow trends can lead you into rough
waters, and doing nothing can make you come across as
unkempt.

So lets take a look.

There are five basic eyebrow shapes:

Round

Lisa Kudrow

Angled

Tyra Banks

Soft Angled

Angelina Jolie

Curved

Salma Hayek

Flat

Brooke Shiields

Images courtesy of WireImage.com
4

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While eyebrow shapes have fallen in and out of vogue over the years, it doesnt
change the fact that there better and worse eyebrow shapes for each face shape.
The key is to find the best shape for you. Here are some guidelines:

If your face is Your best shape is Your worst shape is

Oval

Soft Angled. This enhances
the oval-shaped face best.

A brow thats too highly
arched. It will give the
face a look of perpetual
surprise.
Round

Soft Angled. It will make
your face look longer and
thinner.

Round. It will make your
face look rounder.
Heart-Shaped

Round. This will soften the
pointed chin.

Flat. This does nothing
to balance the chin.
Oblong

Flat. It shortens the face,
making it look wider.

Soft Angled. It will
make your face look
longer.

Square

or
Angled or soft angled.
These balance the face and
pull attention away from the
square jaw.

Rounded. It wont
balance a square jaw.
Diamond

or
Angled or curved. These
visually narrow the face.

Flat. This will make the
face appear shorter and
wider than it is.

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Now that you have the basic shapes, how should you go about getting them?

If your brow is too thick or unruly, wax or
pluck it into shape.

If its too thin or too light, use an eyebrow
pencil or powder to fill it in and enhance what
you feel should be there. Keep colors in line
with your skin tone (no dark black brows for
a red head, for example), and practice a bit if
its unsteady at first.

Photos courtesy of Eyebrowz.com

So how do you go about this? Start with your face as a guide:

Brows should begin directly over the tear duct at the
inner corner of the eye and rise in a gentle curve
along the brow bone. The highest point in the arch
should be just about even with the outer edge of the
eye's iris, tapering down and ending at the outside
corner of the eye.

To define the ideal brow length, line up a pencil
parallel to the bride of the nose and then at an angel
across the outer edge of the eyes.

Once youve determined the right length, arc, and width, its time to finish those
brows.

Heres what youll need:
Slanted-tip tweezers
An eyebrow brush
Astringent to soften skin and anesthetize the area.
A well-lit (non-magnifying) mirror.
Small scissors to trim excess hair
Brow powder, a brow pencil and tinted brow gel
Brow stencil kit (optional)

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Tweezing or Waxing Your Brows

If you have excess hair above, below, or between your eyebrows, consider
plucking or waxing off that extra hair to get a more polished look. Heres how:

Brush brows upward.

Carefully trim any excess hair above the top of your natural arch. Dont
take off too much at the ends or you'll have brow "bald" spots.

Soak a cotton ball in astringent and carefully wipe the area to be plucked.

Hold tweezers at a 45 angle and pluck the stray hairs
below the brow line. Pull in the direction of the hair
growth. Use your natural shape as a guide. If you over-
tweeze them into a different shape, they may not grow back
in full.

Set brows with a clear or tinted brow gel to hold them in place.

Filling in Your Brows

If your eyebrows are sparse and in need of filling in, grab an eyebrow pencil that
complements your skin tone and hair color and draw on brows to add polish.
Heres how:

Using a freshly sharpened eyebrow pencil, fill in sparse
areas with light, quick strokes to draw in hair.

For a natural finish, apply brow powder with a thin brush.
Sweep it up and outward over brows.

Use a clear or tinted brow gel to set brows in place. Wipe
off any excess and allow it to set.

Again, use your face as a guide to find the perfect shaped brows.

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The Most Common Brow Mistakes

Over-Plucking

If a little is good, a lot is great, right? No! Over-plucking
takes time to correct, and may not fill in completely. Let
hair grow in for a month or so before you pluck again. Fill
in any bare spots with eyebrow powder that matches or is
one shade darker than your brows.

Before After

Thin Ends

When the ends of your brows arent easily seen, you need to add a little color to
balance them out. Fill in brows starting at the middle of the arch and work your
way toward the end.

Too Short

If your brows end at the arch, theyll make your eyes look smaller. So grab a
pencil and fill them in along the brow bone. Make sure to use a pencil the same
color as your brows for a natural look.

Unshapely

If youve over or under-plucked your brows,
you need to fix them. Use a brow stencil to
find the right shape and fill it in with an
eyebrow pencil or brow powder. Carefully
tweeze any hair that falls outside the stencil
shape.

Before Using Stencil After

Unruly

If you have never tweezed your brows or havent tweezed them in a while and
theyre bushy and unruly, trim them with small scissors before tweezing to get
rid of the excess hair. Then brush them back into place so you can see the
natural shape. Carefully tweeze anything that is above or below the natural brow
line.

Photos on this page courtesy of Eyebrowz.com

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Waxing, Tweezing, and Threading

Should you wax, tweeze, or thread?

While all three methods can produce beautifully shaped
brows, waxing tends to offer the most defined shape. But
its not for the novice. If you put wax in the wrong place,
you could end up pulling off more hair than you want,
and it may take its time growing back. So if you want a
crisp look, see a professional. You may be able to
maintain them at home once the aesthetician has shaped
your brows, but if in doubt, dont.

Note: Waxing is not recommended for women who have sensitive skin, who are
sunburned, or who use Retin-A and other prescription creams.

Tweezing is easy and inexpensive to do once you have a good pair of tweezers,
but its easy to over-pluck if youre not careful. Use tweezers if you prefer, or
use them to pull stray hairs in-between waxing or threading appointments.

A popular method of hair removal in both Europe and Asia, threading is where
you roll a piece of cotton thread across the unwanted hair. The hair wraps
around the thread and is pulled from the root. It offers a flawless finish, but is
best left to a trained professional. It can be expensive and painful.

The Worst Ways to Remove Eyebrow Hair

So if waxing, tweezing, and threading are among the most popular methods of
removing hair, which rank among the least?

Depilatories -- The FDA warns against using chemical hair dissolvers near the
eyes since an accidental drop into the eye can lead to blindness. Such chemicals
also tend to be particularly harsh on the sensitive skin around the eye.

Shaving While some women swear by shaving their
brows and there are even miniature razors available for
use around the eyes, its really easy to take off too much
with a careless swipe. The hair also grows back faster
and tougher than it does with other methods of removal.
Proceed with caution.

Eyebrow Razors
Eyebrowz.com

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Should You Dye Your Brows?

Dyeing your eyebrows is one way to make a big impact
in a small amount of time. If you have very dark
brows, going a shade or two lighter will make your
eyes appear larger. If you have very light brows, going
a shade or two darker will add more definition to the
area. If you color your hair, coloring the brows the
same or similar color may make your hair color seem
more natural.

Make light brows darker
for more definition

A word of caution: because of the close proximity to the eye, you need to handle
coloring chemicals with care. You dont want them to end up in your eyes.
Have them professionally done or get someone to help you if doing it at home.

Well-groomed brows are the basis of any great face so if youve never given
your brows much thought, I encourage you to investigate further. Since
grooming your brows is a simple, inexpensive way to look betteror worse, if
you do too much or too littleit makes sense to review this part of your beauty
regime from time to time.

Sites for further study:

Anastasia
http://www.anastasia.net

Eyebrowz
http://www.eyebrowz.com

Tweezerman
http://www.tweezerman.com

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YOUR PEARLY WHITES

You dont have to brush your teeth
just the ones you want to keep.
--Author Unknown

Few people are born with perfect smiles. Those million-
dollar mouths you see plastered all over magazines and
television are often the result of many trips to the dentist or
orthodontist, and can be yours for a few thousand dollars and
some time in dental chair.

Is it worth it? Many times, it is. If youre self-conscious about your teeth, its
probably affecting the way you communicate. Whether you rarely smile or
always smile behind your hand, youre telling the world one of two things:
youre either a sour puss or you have something to hide.

Dont let this happen to you, especially since there are so many affordable
alternatives these days. If you want a long lasting way to improve your image
and boost your self-esteem, invest in your smile.

Regular Dental Care

Lets begin with the easiest and most obvious way to get a great smile: regular
dental care. Brush and floss your teeth at least twice a day, visit your dentist
every six months. Youve probably been doing it all your life...but do you know
exactly why?

Heres what it boils down to:

Your mouth is a breeding ground for bacteria. Dark, warm, and
moist, its a haven for microscopic organisms. Thats why
regular care is so important, to keep that bacteria at bay. Left
on its own, it can lead to tooth decay and gum infections. The
most persistent pest is plaque, which is that sticky, colorless
bacteria that forms on the teeth and creates the toxins that can
lead to periodontal disease if neglected.

5

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Regular brushing removes the plaque, just as regular flossing will dislodge any
food particles left behind by brushing. Routine visits to the dentist, which
usually include a cleaning and a checkup, will remove any residual plaque
buildup and ensure a clean bill of dental health.

Now while this is an easy way to stay on top of the basics, let me say right now
that a lot of people never make it this far. Fear of the dentist ranks right up there
with fear of public speaking, so many people take the easy way out and just
dont go. I once worked with a woman who bragged that she hadnt been to a
dentist in forty years. Another man in that same office claimed that hed sworn
off dentists in the early 1970s. You know what? The woman very rarely smiled
and the man had the worst case of Halitosis Ive ever encountered. Both of
which could have been avoided with a little routine maintenance.

Here are some other general tips to consider in your everyday mouth care:

Change your toothbrush regularly. Every three
months is ideal, so get a new brush as each new
season rolls around.

If youre getting over a cold, sore throat, or some
other short-term illness, immerse your toothbrush
in boiling water for a few minutes to kill any
lingering germs.

Dont forget the fluoride. Many cities add fluoride to the tap water these
days and you can always buy toothpaste with fluoride. But if you live in
the country and youre on well water, youre going to need a fluoride
supplement (infants and small children in particular need this additive).
Ask your Internist for a prescription.

Always wear protective mouth gear when participating in contact sports.
If you play football, box, engage in martial arts, or regularly take part in
similar contact sports, dont forget your mouth guard.

Dont neglect your teeth when dieting. Fad diets, crash dieting, and
fasting all take their toll on teeth and gums because calcium and vitamin
requirements are often neglected. Diet pills are also hard on the mouth as
they create dry mouth, which can ultimately lead to tooth decay.

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Precautions: Take Vitamin (B-2, B-12, D) and Calcium supplements
when dieting and increase your water intake to ensure adequate saliva
production.

In the event of dental trauma, remain calm, cool and collected and call
your dentist as soon as possible. If youve lost or chipped a permanent
tooth during the mishap, take it with you to the dentist.

WARNING: These two are a little graphic:

Always brush your teeth after you throw up. That bitter taste in your
mouth is acidchemicals your stomach uses to break down and digest
food. Its okay for the stomach, but bad for the mouth, and can lead to
tooth decay and other oral problems in time. Eroding tooth enamel is one
of the easiest ways to spot a Bulimic. In fact, 28% of all bulimia cases are
first diagnosed during dental exams.

Skip the piercing. While tongue piercing is all the rage now,
particularly among the teen crowd, its not a good idea. In fact, its a
terrible one. Remember all that bacteria we talked about a moment ago?
Combine all those organisms with an open sore and you have the number
one problem associated with oral piercing: infection. Some peoples
tongues have swollen so large, theyve closed the airway! Piercing can
also cause uncontrollable bleeding and nerve damage, so just say no if
this ever becomes a consideration in your life.

Now that you have the day-to-day stuff down pat, lets look at some other ways
to brighten your smile.

Teeth Whitening

Another simple way to improve your smile (and take years
off your appearance) is to whiten your teeth.

Everyones teeth yellow with age, according to the
American Dental Association, so lightening them a little can
take years off your smile. Other culprits that contribute to
staining include:

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Coffee
Tea
Tobacco products
Tetracycline
Excessive Fluoride
Trauma

While almost everyones teeth can be lightening by whitening products, there are
some cases where it wont work (like on teeth that have turned gray due to
trauma or medical conditions). Consult with your dentist before trying any
whitening product to determine whats best for you.

There are a couple of things you need to consider before whitening:

Age

The older you get, the duller and more discolored your teeth become. Trying to
recreate the white shade of teeth from your youth is a dead giveaway that your
teeth have been artificially lightened. So dont go for blinding white just go a
few shades lighter than your current color. It will work wonders for your smile.

Skin Tone

As with makeup, hair coloring, and clothing, your skin tone will have an impact
on your best tooth color. If you have yellow undertones, keep some ivory or
yellow in your teeth. If you have pink undertones, your teeth will look best with
a hint of blue or gray in them. An experienced dentist with whitening experience
should be able to match the tones appropriately.

So which whitening method is best? It depends on what youre trying to do:

Whitening Toothpastes

In general, whitening toothpastes like Rembrandt are safe if
you dont over-brush with them. The results will be limited
because they really only work on surface stains. Most dont
have bleach or dont remain on the teeth long enough to make
a significant change. However, many do contain abrasive
substances that can wear tooth enamel over time, so dont use
them for prolonged periods of time.

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Strips

Whitening strips work well for people with mild
discoloration who want a quick boost. The strips are pressed
onto your teeth like tape on a package and are typically worn
for 30 or 60 minutes at a time, five to seven days in a row.
You should have noticeably whiter teeth at the end of the
treatment period. While these strips contain a low level of
peroxide, discontinue use if the strips irritate your gums or
make your teeth tingle.

Trays

Whitening trays are shaped like a mouth guard and come with several tubes of
peroxide-based gel that you squeeze into the tray and insert into your mouth for
30 or 60 minutes at a time. Theyre the best over-the-counter solution for more
darkly discolored teeth that require more lightening than toothpaste or strips can
handle.

These over-the-counter trays resemble what you might
get in a take-home bleaching package from your dentist,
except they dont have a custom mouth tray. A poorly
fitting tray may allow you to ingest bleaching agent or it
might allow the bleach to seep onto and irritate gum
tissue. Still, if you like the price tag, here are some tips
to follow:

1. Try to find a kit that allows you to customize your mouth tray to some
extent. While these arent as good as what you might get from your
dentist, they are better than the standard, one-size-fits-all approach.

2. Try to get a recommendation from someone who has used the product
to see what their results might have been.

3. If you experience pain, changes in gum tissue color, or increased
sensitivity to hot or cold foods, discontinue use and contact your dentist
immediately.

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Dentist Supervised Take-Home Bleaching Systems

This is becoming an increasing popular method for teeth whitening and is much
simpler than systems available even just a few years ago. The dentist takes a
mold of your teeth and creates a custom tray for you. Youre given several tubes
of bleaching agent that you squirt into the tray. You wear the tray for a half hour
every day or at night for about two weeks, and youll have noticeably whiter
teeth at the end of the period. You can repeat the procedure as needed every six
to twelve months.

While this pretty much resembles what you do with the over-the-counter
products, theres a huge difference in effectiveness and price. Over-the-counter
products contain 6% peroxide and run less than $50 while professional
treatments contain up to 35% peroxide and can run up to $600. Youre paying
for the dentist to analyze your particular situation, give you the appropriate
bleaching agent, and customize a tray for you. Depending on your situation, it
may be well worth it.

Dentist Office Power Bleaching

One of the quickest and most effective ways to whiten your teeth is called
Power Bleaching, which requires deep pockets and session in the dentists
chair.

The dentist isolates and protects your lips, gums, and the
inside lining of your mouth. A powerful bleaching agent
is then applied to your teeth. A powerful light source is
applied that activates the bleaching agent.

This is an extremely quick and effective way to whiten your teeth under a
dentists supervision. But it is a bit pricey, typically $600 to $1200 to whiten
both upper and lower teeth.

Get a Hollywood Smile

Not quite satisfied with just whitening your teeth? There are alternatives. Lets
move into the Hollywood Tricks/Deep Pockets arena with these techniques:

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Bonding

Bonding is a process in which enamel colored composite resin (plastic
compound that looks like ceramic) is used to fill in broken, chipped, cracked, or
unevenly spaced teeth. The resin is usually mixed in several shades to closely
match your natural tooth color.

The resin material isnt as strong as your natural teeth, and can be chipped by
chewing ice, popcorn kernels, hard candy, and the like. Its also prone to
staining from coffee, tea, red wine, and other staining foods.

Usually completed in one visit (depending on how many teeth are being done),
and typically done without anesthesia, bonding costs about $150 per tooth.

Porcelain Veneers

Veneers are thin, porcelain shells bonded to the surface of the teeth to mask
stains, close spaces, and repair broken or chipped teeth. A thin layer of enamel
is removed from your tooth, an impression is taken, and a veneer is fabricated to
fit on the front of the tooth (like putting paneling on a wall). Need your tooth
wider? Longer? Fuller? Then veneers might be a solution for you. .

Veneers offer a brilliantly white smile and resist discoloration much better than
the resin in bonding. But the technology doesnt come cheap. If you opt for
veneers, you can expect to pay $250 (or more!) per tooth.

Caps

If your teeth are in BAD shapebroken down, badly chipped, deteriorating,
etc.the best alternative may be a cap. In this process, the tooth is ground down
and replaced with a porcelain or metal-fabricated crown. Heres a drawing of
whats entailed, from the Smile Doctor, smile-dr.com.

While crowning can achieve amazing results, it does come at a price. Expect
several painful visits, and bring your checkbook. Its going to run you around
$1500 to $1800 per tooth.

So now that weve exhausted how to whiten and brighten your teeth, lets look at
some other ways to spruce up your smile.

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Orthodontic Treatments

One of the most popular ways to bring about a healthy smile is through
orthodontia. While most people assume that braces are only used to straighten
teeth, they can actually be used for a variety of dental challenges.

Crowded teeth, overbites and under-bites, incorrect jaw position and disorders of
the jaw joints can all benefit from orthodontic treatment. According to the
American Association of Orthodontists, nearly 70% of the U.S. population is in
need of some sort of orthodontic treatment.

When teeth are crooked or incorrectly placed in the mouth, they will wear
unevenly. This can lead to gum problems and ultimately, to tooth loss.
Positioning them correctly can alleviate a lot of these problems. This is done
with braces.

Braces are usually put on children between the ages of 10 and 14. The child has
typically lost all of his baby teeth by then, and since the head and mouth are still
growing, teeth are more accessible to straightening.

But dont assume that kids are the only ones who should wear braces. Far from
it. Many adults can benefit as well. In fact, nearly 25% of all new Orthodontic
patients are adults. Many of them report that either their parents didnt have the
money to straighten their teeth when they were kids, or their problems defied the
orthodontic technology at the time.

Perhaps the biggest difference between adult and teenage patients is the length of
treatment. Since kids are still growing, they rebound quickly from the routine
tightening and can have a reshaped mouth within 24 months, depending on the
extent of their problem. Adult patients have to move a little slower. Instead of
having their braces tightened every 2-4 weeks like teenagers, they need to wait
for 3-6 weeks. This draws out the length of treatment. They may expect to see
results in 30 months that their teenager can get in 24, for example.

But you neednt despair over looking like a metal mouth while your teeth are
shifting around. Todays new materials allow you many more options than were
available even 15 or 20 years ago. These include:

Metal or plastic brackets. These bond to teeth and are far less noticeable
than their banded predecessors. They can be metal, clear, blue, gold,

89
purpleyou name it! Just ask your orthodontist for Stylish Braces (tm) or
Outrageous Braces (tm) if you want to be a real trendsetter.

Lingual braces. These are brackets that attach to the back of the teeth and
are hidden from view.

Bands. These are the old fashioned variety which cover most of your teeth
with metal bands and wrap around the teeth.

Not sure of how youll look in braces? Why not get a free computer-generated
photo of yourself from the American Association of Orthodontists? All you
need to do is send a close up, front-view picture of yourself smiling. Include
your name, address, and telephone number and send it to:

Smiles
American Association of Orthodontists
401 North Lindbergh Blvd.
St. Louis, MO 63141-7816

Invisalign

So what if you dont want to wear braces? What are your options?

If your teeth dont need to be moved a lot, you might consider the Invisalign
System. You may have seen these advertised on TV or in a magazine.
Basically, its a system of customized aligners that produces a series of nearly-
clear orthodontic appliances that are worn by the patient to move the teeth into
their goal position.

Each aligner moves teeth in small increments and is worn
for about two weeks before its replaced by the next
aligner in the series. They can be removed for brushing
and flossing, which makes maintenance a snap. Unlike
conventional braces, there are no wires, braces, or metal
to create abrasions to the teeth or skin in the mouth.

The pluses: Discreet, easy to maintain, cutting edge technology.

The minuses: Works best on mild cases, costs up to 50% more than traditional
braces.

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If youre not dissuaded, click on the Invisalign site to find an Invisalign-certified
doctor near you,

So...are you ready to whip your smile into shape? Then get busy and call your
dentist. Once you get that movie-star smile, youll be amazed how your
confidence will soar.

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BODY
Thirty-five is when you finally get your head
together and your body starts falling apart.
-- Caryn Leschen

Thus far, weve talked extensively about how to look great
from the neck up. But is that where your beauty regime
should end? Of course not! You have a whole lot more skin
to maintain, and keeping is toned, moisturized, and hair-free
will allow you to look good, feel good, and turn heads for
decades. All it takes is a little information to get on the right
path.

CLEANSE
The best place to start is with your daily care. Whether you bathe or shower
every day or every few days, the products that you use on your skin can have a
lasting impact on how it looks. You want to cleanse your skin without stripping
it of essential oils, wash away the bacteria without clogging pores.

The problem is, many of the popular bath soaps, shower gels, and bubble baths
on the market tend to do just that: strip your skin of oils and leave them squeaky
clean. You dont want that. It will dry out your skin unnecessarily, aging it
before its time.

Products to avoid include:

Deodorant Soaps these contain bacteria-killing chemicals that can dry
out skin. Regular soaps should kill the bacteria just as well.

Antibacterial Soaps these are great for cleaning your hands if you work
in a bacteria haven like a doctors office, school, or day care or if youre
prone to acne on your back. But they tend to over-dry.

Shower Gels and Bubble Baths if the label says sodium laurel sulfate,
dont use it because it will dry out your skin.

6

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So what other options do you have? Plenty! You just have to remember that the
best products to use will depend on your skin type. Here are some skin-friendly
alternatives:

What What it Does Who its For

Hand-Milled
Soap

Also called French-milled
soap (or a variation, triple-
milled soap), these are
vegetable-based soaps that
have been combined with
essential oils and/or
fragrance. They are gentle,
lather well, and are great for
everyday use.

Crabtree-
Evelyn.com

Anyone,
particularly those
with normal to dry
skin.

Glycerin Soap

These transparent soaps are
made of oil and glycerin
and are extremely gentle on
the skin. They produce a
light lather and clean well
without stripping essential
oils from the skin.

Fruits-
Passion.com

People with dry or
sensitive skin. Also
works great on
babies.

Moisturizing
Soap

Loaded with rich
emollients like olive oil,
goats milk, cocoa butter,
these creamy soaps slather
you in moisture, making
your skin soft to the touch.

Crabtree-
Evelyn.com

Those with dry,
sensitive, or itchy
skin.

Exfoliating
Soap

Rough and gritty with
ingredients like jojoba
or oatmeal, these soaps
exfoliate as they wash.
Great for loosening
blackheads and ingrown
hairs on oily skin.

Southern Soap
Store.com

Use occasionally to
slough off dry skin;
use regularly on
oily skin.

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Body Wash

If you dislike the mess that
comes with bar soaps, try
creamy or cleansing body
washes instead. Some add
moisture, some simply
clean, but most of them
leave skin soft and supple.

Crabtree-
Evelyn.com

Those with dry,
normal, or sensitive
skin.

Finding the best solution for you may require some experimentation, but one
things for certain: once you see what a difference the proper product can make
to the texture and feel of your skin, youll never go back to your old bathing
routine.

PREPARE
Cleansing skin is just the first step in creating that healthy glow. Youll need to
give it a little extra TLC every now and again to keep it looking good and feeling
great. Exfoliate to slough off dead skin, moisturize to keep skin supple, and
adjust your routine and products as needed to combat the heat of summer and the
cold of winter. Here are some simple ways to do that:

Exfoliate

Regular exfoliating invigorates the skin and helps slough off
dead skin cells. To keep skin soft and supple, exfoliate once
a week with either a loofah-like product or an exfoliating
scrub. Always exfoliate before you use self tanner to ensure a
smooth application; do not exfoliate on sunburned skin or
skin that youve recently shaved or waxed. It will further
irritate it.

Crabtree-
Evelyn.com

Moisturize

You should moisturize your skin year round regardless of your skin type. Those
with dry skin need rich creamy formulations; those with oily skin will benefit
from water-based lotions. Apply moisturizer right after bathing when your skin
is still damp and adjust the creaminess of the product with the seasons as
necessary.

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While most basic moisturizers will keep your skin hydrated, there are products
on the market that can help specific trouble zones:

Alpha-hydroxy acids and retinol boost the skins
natural exfoliation process and leave the skin silky
and smooth.

Lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, and urea help draw
moisture to the skins surface and are particularly
effective on rough areas like elbows, knees, and
heels.

Antioxidants with vitamins A, C, and E minimize
damage caused by the sun.

Crabtree-Evelyn.com

So read those labels carefully and opt for products that help you get the
smoothest skin possible.

Prevent Odor

Once you have silky-smooth, touchable skin, make sure you dont send people
running in the opposite direction because of the body odor coming from your
arm pits.

The body cools itself by perspiring. Thats why you start to glow whenever
you engage in robust activity. Sweat by itself is generally odorless. Its when it
combines with bacteria on your body surface that it develops an odor.

So how do you combat it? Use a deodorant with an antiperspirant. One combats
odor, the other, perspiration. There are a number of formulations on the market,
so try several until you find one that works for you. Always keep a spare in your
desk at work, and carry a travel size in your purse or car. You never know when
youll need to reapply...

Mitchum.com

TheCrystal.com

CertainDri.com

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Another trick? If all else fails, dust your armpits with baby powder. This
absorbs extra moisture and leaves a pleasant scent.

If you perspire profusely and nothing on the market seems to work, consult a
dermatologist. Excess sweating on the underarms, hands, groin, and feet is
called Hyperhidrosisis, and requires a doctors care to control. Consult with a
dermatologist to determine the best solution for you.

Did you know?

Your bodys chemical composition can change over time, like when youre
pregnant, nursing, or going through menopause, and what might have worked
for years suddenly stops doing its job. Try different products again until you
find one that works with your new composition.

The Breast Cancer Rumor

Theres been a rumor making the email rounds for a while linking the use of
antiperspirants to breast cancer. Its not true. You can read the story and
research behind this at BreastCancer.org .

PROTECT
Once youve cleaned, smoothed, and moisturized your skin, you need to take
care to protect it. How do you do that?

STAY OUT OF THE SUN.

Unless youve been living under a rock, you probably know by now that
sunbathing is bad for your skin. While you may think your skin looks better in a
darker shade, whatever your race, ethnicity, or skin tone, allowing the suns rays
to bake your skin over time can lead to a number of bad things, from getting
wrinkles at an early age to life-threatening diseases like skin cancer.

So why, in spite of all the warnings, do people continue to tan?

Its a status thing, like wearing corsets used to be, which defies logic and persists
in spite of medical evidence that its harmful.

96
Remember the line from Snow White, Skin as white as snow? For centuries,
white or light skin was cherished as the sign of a lady. Tanned skin on women
was a sign of the working class. Wealthy women stayed out of the sun or
protected their skin with parasols, hats, and gloves. Working women didnt have
the means or the interest to do so.

That all changed in the 1920s when Coco Chanel stepped off a yacht in the
south of France sporting the tan shed picked up while on board. By the 1930s,
a tan stood for health, wealth, and style.

Amazing what a little spin can do, eh?

Yes, I know it feels good to lie in the sun. I know a tan
looks hot. But unless you take the necessary precautions,
youll do irrevocable damage.

So, regardless of your skin color (yes, black skin can get sunburned), you need to
protect your skin. Here are some tips for summer sun worship:

1. Always use a sunscreen. Apply 20 minutes before you go into the sun
to allow your skin time to absorb it. Re-apply as needed throughout the
day, particularly after a swim.

2. Wear broad-rimmed hats, light-colored coverups, and UV protective
sunglasses when in the sun.

3. Whenever possible, stay out of the sun between 10am and 2pm to avoid
exposure to the most intensive rays.

4. Drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration and heat stroke.

5. Apply cool compresses to sunburned skin to help reduce the area
temperature. Never exfoliate or use a mask on sunburned skin until the
area has healed, and be sure to go light on your favorite perfume until the
burn is gone.

Sunburn products on the market that will help you heal and peel less include:

Coppertone Cool Beads
www.coppertone.com

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American Vitamin Company Re-hydrator
www.gloskincare.com/avc/beauty.asp

Clinique After-Sun Rescue Balm
www.clinique.com

REMEMBER: If you are severely sunburned, consult a physician as soon as
possible for treatment of your first degree burn.

Facts about Sunscreen

So what exactly do all those letters and numbers on your bottle of sunscreen
mean?

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. Most dermatologists recommend daily use
of a sunscreen with an SPF of 15, as this will generally protect you while youre
walking to the car, taking a stroll through the neighborhood, or having an
impromptu picnic on a bench in the park.

If youre going to be out in the sun for an extended period of time to garden, play
sports or socialize, look for a sunscreen with an SPF of 30. This will help
combat extended exposure to the suns rays.

UV or Ultra Violet protection comes in two formulations to combat the two
types of solar rays: UVA and UVB. UVA rays cause wrinkles; UVB rays lead
to sunburn.

In the United States, this is a hotly contested area of product reporting. The
FDA allows a manufacturer to claim that their sunscreen blocks UVA rays even
if it blocks only a low percentage of them. To make sure youre getting the
protection that you need, look for one or more of the following ingredients on
the label:

Avobenzone (also called Parsol 1789)
Titanium Dioxide
Zinc Oxide

Next, consider your skin type. Dry skin may prefer an emollient cream while
oilier skin types might opt for a formulation with no added humectants or
moisturizers. There are lots of UV protective options available, including:

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Dry-Normal

Avon Age Block- SFP 15
http://www.avon.com

Peter Thomas Roth Oil Free Sunblock- SPF 30

Murad Daily Defense Hydrating Sunscreen, SPF 15

Shade UVA guard- SFP 30
http://www.coppertone.com

Oily-Combo

DDF Matte Finish Photo-Age Protection- SFP 30

Origins Silent Treatment- SFP 15
http://www.origins.com

Christian Dior Ultra-UV Coat For The Face - SFP 30

Revlon New Complexion Even Out Make-up- SFP 20
http://www.revlon.com/cosmetics/newcomplexion

Finally, replace your sunscreen every year. It doesnt have a long shelf life, so if
youre using last years bottle, chances are, you dont have the protection you
need.

Getting That Sun Kissed Look

So how can you get the look of a tan without risking the danger of sitting in the
sun? Use a bronzer or self-tanner.

99
Tanning gels, or fake tans have been around for a couple of decades. They
were originally designed as a shortcut for people who didnt have the time or
inclination to sit in the sun, but frankly, they werent very good. They streaked,
had an orange tint, and often came off on everything they came into contact with,
including clothes, car seats, and furniture. Whats more, most of the women
who used them did so only on their legs, which made the skin on the lower half
of their body not match the skin on the upper half -- a dead giveaway that
something was amiss.

Todays tanning and bronzing gels are about as far away from those dinosaurs as
cooking by fire is from using the microwave. Todays products go on smooth,
dry quickly, have staying power, and come in a variety of shades to meet the
needs of many different skin tones. If youre thinking about a tan but dont want
to lie in the sun, maybe you should consider a sunless tanner or tanning bronzer.

Here are some tips for using them correctly:

To begin with, choose a bronzer thats close to your skin
tone. If youre fair, pick light to medium; if youre dark,
select medium to deep. Going from stark white to dark
brown wont fool anyone.
Drugstore.com

Start with clean, smooth skin. Exfoliate, shave or wax. The smoother the
surface, the smoother the application will be.

Remove all jewelry and pull your hair off your face if applying the
product to your face.

Put a dollop of tanner in your hand, and mix with an equal amount of
moisturizer. Dont use a moisturizer with exfoliating properties like
retinol or alpha hydroxy. These speed the turnover of surface cells, which
will make the color fade faster.

Perspiration will cause the color to run and make your skin look blotchy. Use in
a well ventilated room, not your shower-steamed bathroom.

Apply a thin layer using a circular motion. If youre using the bronzer on
your face, be sure to get the tricky parts like ears, jawline, and neck.
Use a cotton swab to help with application, if necessary.

100
If youre using an instant bronzer, youll need to wait about five minutes for
the product to set. If its not instant, youll need to wait at least an hour. Keep
your hands off your skin and sit someplace that wont leave tell-tale signs on
your skin. You can apply additional layers once the first layer has dried.
Made a blotchy mess of it? Whoops! Youll have to wait for it to wear off. You
can speed up the process by exfoliating every day or by using a glycolic
moisturizer.

Here are some of the most popular bronzing/self-tanning products:

Au Courant Instant Sunless Tanning Mousse
http://www.aucourant.com

Ban de Soleil Radiance Eternelle Self Tanning Creme
http://www.baindesoleil.com

Clinique Body Self Tanning Lotion
http://www.clinique.com

Coppertones Endless Summer
http://www.coppertone.com

Este Lauder Quick-Dry Sunless Spray
http://www.esteelauder.com

Lancme Flash Bronzer
http://www.lancome.com

Neutrogena Instant Bronzer for The Face
http://www.neutrogena.com

Arent sure which product would be best for your skin type, skin tone, and level
of experience with self-tanners? The Product Picker at www.Sunless.com
should get you pointed in the right direction.

Too afraid to try one of these self-tanners yourself, but want the results they
offer? Youre in luck! Like manicures, pedicures, and eyebrow waxing, this is
now a service offered by many salons, starting at around $50. If you want a no-
streak, professional look, this could be the easiest way to go. Ask your favorite
salon if they do this, or ask them to recommend a good one that does.

101

Too timid to go the fake town route? Try powders that wash right off, like:

Guerlain Terracotta Moisturizing Bronzing Powder

Stila Stila Sun Bronzing Powder SPF

Sugar Cosmetics Tropic Tan

Or how about a tinted moisturizer, like:

Bobbi Brown SPF Tinted Moisturizer
http://www.bobbibrown.com

Neutrogena Healthy Skin Enhancer Tinted Moisturizer

Stila Sheer Color Tinted Moisturizer

Finally, remember that sunless tanners, bronzers, and powders are NOT
sunscreen lotion. While some have SPF (sun protection factor) ingredients in
them, dont be lulled into thinking you dont need additional protection. You do.
Slather on sunscreen whenever you go in the sun.

While theres no such thing as a healthy tan, you can get that sun-kissed look
WITHOUT the associated risks by using a self tanner. All it takes is a little time,
money, and patience to look like you spent an afternoon in the sun perhaps
enjoying the South of France, like Coco Chanel used to do.

102
Common Skin Care Problems

When you have great skin, your clothing options
seem endless: sleeveless tops, backless dresses,
daring dcolletages, and even thigh-high skirts. But
when you have bumps and dimples and other things
best kept under cover, thats what you tend to do:
cover up.

NeimanMarcus.com
You have plenty of company. Nearly 50% of the population has skin problems
of some sort, from bumps on the back of the arm to razor burn to large-looking
pores on the legs.

But whats a gal to do?

Well, dont wrap yourself in oversize clothes to hide your imperfections and
sweat like youre in a sauna! Theres no need! Instead, here are a few tips and
tricks to get you on your way:

Keratosis Pilaris

Chicken skin, those pesky little bumps on the backs of
your arms is a harmless yet annoying hereditary
condition. It may appear at an early age and become less
pronounced in time. It cant be cured but it can be treated
by using mild cleansers, light exfoliation, and moisturizes
with an alpha hydroxy acid. For severe conditions,
consult a dermatologist for a prescription.

HelpForKP.com

Bacne (Back Acne)

As we saw before, acne occurs when pores get plugged with sebum or dirt.
While people often get acne on the face, it can occur anywhere on the body
including the chest and back. Back acne is usually the result of perspiration and
oil getting trapped by tight-fitting, non-breathable fabrics, and its very common
among athletes. To combat it, opt for loose-fitting clothes in breathable fabrics
like cotton, and wash the back with an antibacterial soap. Treat affect areas with
benzoyl peroxide and use only noncomedogenic sunscreen when out in the sun.
Also be sure to change bed linens at least once a week.

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Rough Elbows, Knees, and Heels

Elbows, knees, and heels can get rough and scaly over time
and prevent many people from showing them in public. To
combat, get areas moist in the bath or shower and scrub
lightly with a pumice stone, loohfah, or exfoliating product.
Follow with a deep-moisturizing cream or salve to help re-
hydrate the area.

Razor Burn

Razor burn, which results in tender skin and red, blotchy bumps, is often the
result of poor skin preparation, a dull razor blade, or pressing too hard when
shaving. The skin can become irritated or trap ingrown hairs. To prevent this,
change your blade often, usually after every 3 uses, and allow hair to get wet and
soften before shaving. Also wait to apply moisturizer to the area you shaved to
allow pores to close. Treat the burn with aloe vera gel.

Large Pores

Large-looking pores on your legs are often the result of frequent shaving.
Shaving stimulates hair growth, which results in seemingly instant stubble that
can make the pores on your legs or underarms look large. To combat it, shave
less often. Yes, you will get stubble, and yes, it will take time to retrain your
hair follicle growth patterns. But youll notice a difference in just a matter of
months as pores appear smaller and less noticeable.

Cellulite

Cellulite, that bumpy, puckered, and dimpled
collection of fat that resides in many womens
buttocks, is the bane of plenty of lives. It occurs
when fat pushes through the collagen fibers that
hold the fat under the skin, creating bumps and
dimples.

To reduce the appearance of cellulite you need to increase your diet and exercise
routine by:

Eating a well-balanced diet that includes all the food groups.

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Reducing the foods that heighten fluid retention, like salt and diet drinks.

Toning the muscles in the hips, thighs, and buttocks with area-specific
exercises like walking, swimming, and cycling.

Vigorously massaging the cellulite areas for 10 minutes each day to
breakdown the fat globules and redistribute the mesh.

You might also try one of the anti-cellulite products that
have come on the market in recent years. Anti-cellulite
creams contain a caffeine derivative that helps shrink the
puckers and dimples associated with cellulite. Youll see a
difference if you use their products in conjunction with diet
and exercise.

Two of the most popular firming lotions on the market include:

Neutrogena Anti-Cellulite Treatment

RoC Actif Pur Anti-Cellulite Treatment
http://www.roc.com

But remember: these produces should be used with a regimented diet and
exercise program not instead of.

Stretch Marks

Known in the medical community as striae, stretch marks appear when the
skins collagen and elastin cannot keep up with its need for growth. They
typically appear after pregnancy, rapid weight gain, or a growth spurt, and can
appear in both men and women.

Stretch marks initially appear as red or purple lines of
varying length or widths on the breasts, lower
abdomen, buttocks, and thighs. Sometimes they are
wrinkled and shiny. In time, they fade to a shade
lighter than the surrounding skin.

105
The most effective treatment to date is a topical solution called Tretinoin. A
form of Retin-A, Tretinoinwhen applied in high dosescan cause the
collagen to realign, thus leading to a less pronounced appearance. Studies
indicate that stretch marks made recently respond better to Tretinoin than older
marks.

Other treatments include laser procedures to resurface the skin, and collagen
injections to smooth the skin layers. Many of them are costly and not often
covered by medical insurance. Consult your dermatologist for details.

Finally, if you just cant stand the sight of stretch marks and dont have a lot of
time or money for medical treatments, you can always camouflage the damage
with cosmetics. Find them at:

Sacha Cosmetics
http://www.sachacosmetics.com/camouflage.htm

Age Spots (Liver Spots)

Age spots, also know as liver spots, are those dark
little spots that can pepper your face, hands, and
chest occur when the skin is repeatedly
bombarded by ultraviolet rays. You know, sun
damage. If left untreated over time, age spots can
become very noticeable around the age of fifty.

http://www.nlm.nih.gov
If the spot isnt too dark, you may be able to lighten it with an over-the-counter
bleaching product, like Porcelana. These commercial solutions contain a 2%
solution of hydroquinone and can work effectively. Follow the products
directions carefully, and discontinue use if skin becomes irritated. Darker spots
require a 3% solution, which is only available by prescription.

You can also minimize the effect by regularly using an Alpha Hydroxy Acid
(AHA) lotion. AHAs loosen old, dead cells on the skins surface and can get
rid of age spots by exfoliating superficial pigmentation.

Keep in mind that since this damage occurred over time, its going to take a little
time to fix. Dont expect miracles overnight. Some people have reported
improved results in as little as 60 days while others have had to wait a year. So

106
keep at itand be diligent in your sun protection routine to prevent any further
damage.

So whats the bottom line on these common skin problems?

A healthy lifestyle that includes a well-balanced diet, regular exercise, plenty of
rest, and limited sun exposure will prevent many of the ailments described
above.

Seek professional help when necessary. While there are plenty of good over-the-
counter treatments available, they wont clear every problem to your satisfaction.
Know when to say when and call in a dermatologist when necessary.

Just as pocked, scarred skin can have a negative impact on your self-esteem, so
can beautiful skin lift your self-image to amazing heights. Life is too short to go
around being ashamed of your bad skin. Take the bull by the horns, as they
say, and tame your skin problems today!

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HAIR REMOVAL

Getting ideas is like shaving:
if you dont do it every day, youre a bum.
--Alex Kroll

People have been removing unwanted hair for thousands of years. Ever wonder
who came up with the bright idea of shaving legs? It was the Ancient Egyptians.
They removed all hair from head to toe in order to keep cool; and they did so
using a pumice stone. Ouch! Like clothing, the fashions for hair removal have
come and gone over the centuries.

Lets begin by looking at the different ways to remove hair. Some of these
options have been around since the beginning; others have cropped up within the
last few decades. All of them are effective in differing degrees.

Types of Hair Removal

Plucking involves using a set of tweezers to pull out one hair at a time. The
oldest method of hair removal, plucking works best when used on small areas
like eyebrows. You can also pluck stray hairs left behind by shaving, waxing,
etc.

Threading is an ancient technique that involves using a
100% cotton thread to wrap or lasso hair and pull it out.
Common in the Mid and Far East, threading is usually
limited to facial hair only and can take anywhere from
10 to 30 minutes at the hands of a skilled cosmetician.

Shaving is the quickest form of hair removal and involves using a razor pulled
across the skins surface to cut off unwanted hair. This is the most popular
method for removing hair but its also the most temporary, usually lasting only a
few days.

Sugaring was Cleopatras hair removal method of choice and involves blending
water, sugar, and citrus juice (lemon, lime, or orange) into a warm paste. The
paste is applied to hair and pulled off quickly using strips of linen or muslin.
Hair must be at least long to work effectively.
7

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Waxing is similar to sugaring in that warm wax is
applied to the skin and pulled off quickly using wax or
linen strips. Waxing is the most popular method of
hair removal in salons, as the results can last up to six
weeks. Hair must be at least long to work
effectively.

Depilatory Creams are combinations of chemicals applied directly to the skins
surface to dissolve visible hair. Theyre left on for a certain amount of time,
then rinsed with water. These creams are known for their unpleasant odor, and
can cause severe allergic reactions on some people. Always test a small area
before using on larger areas of your body.

Electrolysis involves placing a disposable sterile needle into each individual hair
follicle and transmitting a low-level electrical current to the hair root. This slows
down the hair growth, resulting in finer, thinner hair. First used over 100 years
ago, electrolysis is both time-consuming and costly, but offers excellent long-
term results.

Laser hair removal uses laser technology to emit a
gentle beam of light that passes through the skin to
the hair follicle where it is absorbed by the hair.
The laser energy is then transformed into heat,
which disables the hair follicle.

Laserit.ca

Because laser light is attracted to dark colors, people who have white skin and
dark hair will see the best results. Lasers dont work on white, blonde, gray, or
red hair, so this is not an option if you have lighter colored hair. Similarly,
people with dark hair and skin will see poor results, as the skin pigment will
absorb some of the light energy thats intended for the hair.

So which hair removal treatment is right for you? It all depends on your
situation.

Most women use a combination of techniques on different parts of their body. If
you have sensitive skin, a low threshold for pain, or certain medical conditions
like diabetes, you may be limited to plucking and shaving. If you hate to shave
and can stand the pain, sugaring or waxing might be suitable alternatives. Want
the lowest maintenance available? Try electrolysis or laser hair removal.

109
Hair to Remove

So now that youve had a run down of the different techniques, what hair should
you remove? It depends on your culture and geographic location. Here are some
general rules of thumb, going from head to toe:

Eyebrows

We talked about this in the chapter on eyebrows: tweeze
or wax eyebrows to remove unruly hairs or any hair
between brows. Follow your natural brow shape instead
of the latest trendsbrows tend to re-grow slowly or
sometimes not at all. You dont want to be stuck with an
over-tweezed look.

When having your brows waxed at a salon, consider these tips:

1. Avoid using Alpha Hydroxy skin care products for at least a week
before having brows done. These peel skin, as does waxing. Give your
skin a break between the treatments.

2. Make sure the technician you go to knows what shes doing. This is
not always a given. Ask about her training and experience if youre using
her for the first time.

3. Dont allow the technician to apply heavy creams to the skin right after
waxing, particularly if youre prone to breakouts. To calm pain and
irritation, use a baby teething pain remedy like Oragel.

4. Skip waxing if you have sensitive skin.

For best results when tweezing:

1. Start with a sharp, clean pair of tweezers. Professionals prefer
Tweezerman . They cost more than the typical pair of tweezers, but they
offer lifetime sharpening and will last you for years.

2. Tweeze right after your shower, when the skin is soft and malleable. If
thats not possible, place a warm washcloth over the brows for 5-10
minutes before plucking to soften the area.

110
3. Use natural light whenever possible.

4. Pull skin taut and remove unwanted hairs as close to the root as you
can AND in the direction of growth.

5. Close pores with an astringent as soon as youve finished plucking.

Upper Lip, Cheeks, and Chin

Remove hair from your face by waxing, tweezing, threading, or using
depilatories. DO NOT shave, as youll get re-growth with stubble. Another
alternative is to use bleach to lighten and disguise hair.

Back of Neck

If you wear your hair short, ask your hairdresser to
trim the hair on the back of your neck. Shell
probably do this without asking, but if she forgets,
be sure to mention it.

Underarms

Hairless underarms have been popular in the United States since 1915, when the
May issue of Harpers Bazaar that year featured a woman in a sleeveless dress
with no underarm hair. A marketing campaign by a leading razor blade
company quickly convinced women that underarm hair was both unhygienic and
unfeminine, and within two years, shaving underarms became the accepted norm
in the United States. Its been handed down from mother to daughter ever since,
and is slowly gaining acceptance in other parts of the world.

Shave, wax, use depilatories, or get electrolysis or laser treatments to remove
underarm hair.

Did You Know?

In the Middle Ages, when it was fashionable to wear large and outrageous headdresses,
women removed all hair from eyelashes, eyebrows, and temples by plucking and shaving
every day. Beginning around 476 A.D., this practice was still in vogue during the reign of
Elizabeth I.

111
Use anti-perspirants with caution after hair removal, particularly waxing. The
chemicals in the deodorant can burn, sting, and irritate freshly waxed skin, so
allow for some time between the treatment and the deodorant application.

Arms

Have unwanted hair on your forearms? Bleach, wax,
sugar, use depilatories, or get electrolysis or laser
treatments to get rid of that long hair on your arms.
Dont shaveyoull get stubble and coarser hair.

Breasts, Stomach, and Back

If you have unwanted hair on your breasts, stomach, or back, bleach, wax, sugar,
use depilatories, or get electrolysis or laser treatments to remove what you want
gone. DO NOT shave these areasyou dont want the stubble.

Bikini

Removing hair from the bikini area can be tricky and very
uncomfortable, particularly if you dont do it that often.
Start with a pair of scissors and trim as much as possible.

If waxing:

Apply thin strips of wax in the direction of hair growth to the areas that
grow at and outside of the edge of the bikini leg.

Place strips of linen firmly over the wax. With a quick, deliberate motion,
pull linen back off in the opposite direction in which you applied the wax.
It will sting.

Apply a cool compress to help close pores, and use an anti-inflammatory
to help combat any lingering pain. Many at-home waxing treatments
include one of these remedies with the kit; you can also use a baby
teething solution like Oragel.

If shaving:

112

Apply shaving gel to the area and allow it to sit for several minutes.

Shave in the same direction as hair growth. Rinse.

Repeat until the area is smooth.

If necessary, go back several hours later with an electric razor to pick up
any stray hairs that you missed.

You may experience itching, redness, and red bumps after removing hair here.
Its normal and should go away in a day or two. If youre tidying this area in
preparation for a scanty outfit like a bikini, leotard, or short shorts, make a point
of removing hair a few days beforehand to allow for irritation to subside. If
youre not limber enough to inspect the area closely for stray hairs, try using a
magnifying mirror to help in your examination.

Legs

Many women routinely remove hair from the ankles to
knees year round, and the whole leg during the
summer months when shorts and beachwear rule the
wardrobe. Shaving, waxing, sugaring, depilatories,
electrolysis or laser treatments can all be used to
remove leg hair.

Feet

Have hair on your toes? Use a razor, wax, sugaring product, or depilatories to
remove these pesky little hairs. A real must do before wearing sandals.

How to Shave

Proper shaving can mean the difference between getting soft, supple skin and
ending up with bumpy, irritated skin. Take this task seriously and you should
come out okay.

Heres what to do:

113

Start with a sharp blade for a clean cut and to prevent razor burn. Most
experts recommend changing blades regularly, after about 3 uses. This
could mean once a month or once a week, depending on how often you
shave. Try different razors to determine which one works best for you.

Allow the area thats going to be shaved to get wet for several minutes
before you begin shaving. This softens hair and makes it easier to remove.

Exfoliate skin to remove dead skin cells that might clog the razor. You
can do this with an exfoliating scrub or by gently scrubbing the area with a
wash cloth, loofah, or exfoliating gloves.

Use a shaving gel or foam to prep the skin. Mens shaving cream and
womens shaving cream or virtually formulated the same. Womens
products generally offer a nicer smell.

If you have sensitive skin or if shaving products sting or irritate your skin,
try prepping the area with shower gel or hair conditioner instead.

Shave against the hair growth (on you legs) using 2-3 light strokes.

Shave by feelnot by sight. Using wet fingertips, run your fingers over
the shaved area in a circular motion to check for missed areas. Hair grows
cross-directionally and may be missed by simply shaving up and down.

Rinse the shaved area with cool water to close the pores.

Dry the area thoroughly using gentle, dabbing strokes.

Apply a good post-shaving lotion. Avoid products with AHA as these
may irritate skin.

As you can see, a little TLC goes a long way when shaving.

How to Wax

Like shaving, there are certain ways to prep your skin before waxing to ensure
smooth, irritation-free results. Heres how:

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Grow your hair for two to three weeks. Hair should be at least long.

Set aside adequate time to wax if youll be doing it yourself. A half hour
or more is not uncommon.

Choose your product and read the instructions carefully.

Heat the product for recommended amount of time. Do NOT over-heat.

Test the temperature to make sure its tolerable. A lot of women miss this
step and burn themselves. Dont let this happen to you.

Start with dry skin.

If youre waxing (or sugaring) for the first time, test a small area to see
how your skin will respond.

Apply a thin layer of product in the direction of hair growth.

Press removal strip firmly over wax.

Starting at the bottom of the strip, turn a small area back against the strip.
It should be resting flat against the strip about to be removed.

With your other hand, gently apply pressure to the skin below the strip so
as to hold it taut.

Lift the end of the strip and pull back in the opposite direction in which
you applied the wax or sugaring product. Do not pull up. Pulling back is
the correct way to do this.

Repeat the procedure if youve missed a few hairs.

Continue with the rest of the area until its hair free. If its your first time
waxing or sugaring, you might want to do a small area and wait 24 hours
to see how the skin responds before proceeding with the rest of the area.

If you choose professionally waxing over do-it-yourself methods, remember that
it can get costly. Think carefully and study your budget before going this route.

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Hair Removal Issues

In a perfect world, you end up with smooth, glowing skin once youve removed
the hair. But the worlds not perfect. Ever get ingrown hairs, razor bumps, or
skin irritation when you remove hair? Heres why:

Ingrown Hairs occur when hair starts to grow back after being removed.
Instead of growing back up through the follicle, the hair curls into the follicle
and never exits the skins surface. Its a common problem for people with curly
hair and afflicts both men and women.

Razor Bumps are a different type of ingrown hair. Instead of curling back into
the hair follicle, the hair grows out, curls under, and burrows back into the
adjacent skin. This foreign body can become inflamed and create a bump. Like
ingrown hairs, this is a big problem for people with curly hair. Black men in
particular experience this on their shaved faces and necks.

This product claims to help combat both ingrown hairs and razor bumps. I have
not tested it myself:

Tend Skin
http://www.tendskin.com

Skin Irritation can result from many of the things weve already talked about,
including dull blades, inadequate moisture, allergies to shaving lotions, etc. If
you have sensitive skin on your face, assume that you have sensitive skin all
over and test each new product carefully. Never try something new a few days
before a big event.

Resources

Some other places to learn more about hair removal and after-removal care
include:

Nair
http://www.naircare.com

Sally Hansen
http://www.sallyhansen.com

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Shick
http://www.schick.com

So whats the bottom line with hair removal?

There are lots of different ways to remove hair that will leave you with soft,
beautiful skin. Find the method that works for you and that fits into your
lifestyle and budget, and youre more likely to stick with it.

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HANDS, FEET, AND NAILS
You can always tell a lady by her hands
Scarlett OHara, Gone With the Wind

Once upon a time, women wore gloves nearly all the time. They wore them
during the day, to evening functions, and during cold weather. Heck, they even
wore rubber gloves to clean toilets and wash dishes. Why the obsession with
keeping hands covered?

Because you could always tell a lady by her hands: smooth, supple, and
unmarred. You still can.

Why we dont put as much emphasis on ladies and
gentlemen and polite behavior as we did even a generation
ago, you can still tell a lot about a woman (or a man) by
the condition of her hands. Women with dry, callous
hands and cracked nails tend to work with their hands;
women with soft, supple hands and smooth nails tend to
work with their heads.

While this isnt always true plenty of brainy people use their hands to type on
keyboards, lecture with chalk in hand, and scrub hands in between treating
patients, for example the perception is that if you have lady-like hands, you
either dont make your living with your hands or you have the money to
maintain them so they look like you dont.

Yes, its a bit status-y, but theres
another facet to it: since your hands are
one of the first places to show age,
neglecting them will make you look
older faster. You may be able to throw
people (including potential employers)
off your actual age with your hair,
makeup, and clothing, but its hard to
fool them with the hands. Theyre a
dead giveaway.


Faye Dunaway is five months younger than
Raquel Welch, and theyre both 66 at this
writing. Look at their hands.
Who would you say is younger?
8

118
So what can you do to keep your hands smooth and supple and looking young
for decades? Just use a little TLC.
Basic Hand Care

To have beautiful hands, you need to treat them with respect. Even if you
routinely abuse them during the course of the day with frequent washings, by
sticking them in chemicals, working with dirt, oil, paint, or whatever, you still
need to treat them kindly perhaps more than kind, given all the abuse.

Here are the basics:

Always use a moisturizing lotion after you wash your hands. Keep lotion
in your bathroom, in your handbag, and in your office desk for easy
access.

Wear gloves when working with tools or equipment that may rub and
cause calluses, like when you garden, lift weights, or ride horses.

Wear cotton-lined rubber gloves when handling
chemicals or working in water, like when you clean
the bathroom or wash dishes.

Wear gloves when its cold outside (duh!) instead of shoving your hands
into your coat pockets or just going without.

Keep cuticles and nails from getting cracked and dry with soothing
products.

Keep nails trimmed and filed to a uniformed length.

If youve been neglecting your hands and follow just these simple steps, your
hands will look nicer in a matter of weeks. Be consistent and make a concerted
effort and youll be surprised by how quickly theyll recover.

Hand Care as You Age

Now that you have the basics down, you can further protect your hands as you
age by catering to their changing needs as the years go by. You expose them to
the sun, immerse them in water and use them for just about everything. Heres
how to offer a little extra TLC as the decades pass:

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20s: Sun Protection

If you get into the habit of protecting your hands like you do
your face whenever youre in the sun, youll never have to deal
with age spots as the years go by. Look for hand lotion with
SPF (there are many on the market) and apply it every time
you wash your hands. Also get into the habit of using cotton-
lined gloves when you wash dishes, clean your bathroom, or
garden. Wear gloves in cold weather.

Hilary Duff

30s: Soften

If you wash your hands frequently to prepare food, see patients,
care for small children and the like, you rob your skin of the oil
it needs to keep hands soft and supple. To combat this, try a
paraffin treatment at home once a week, or apply a cuticle oil to
nails and hands, wrap them in plastic wrap, and cover them with
a hot towel for ten minutes for an intense moisturizing session.
(Tip from manicurist Deborah Lippman).

Kate Winslet

40s: Plump Them Up

As you age, your skin loses collagen and becomes very thin and
frail-looking. The skin on the back of your hands can start
looking bony and taut. To combat this, look for products that
contain botanical ingredients, like Cliniques Stop Signs Hand
Repair. For a more dramatic change, consider seeing a doctor,
for a procedure where fat is harvested from elsewhere on your
body and injected into your hands to plump them up.

Julianne Moore

50s+: Zap Veins

Visible veins may start to show, making your hands look old
and weathered. Retinol can help combat this and drugstore
products like Sally Hansens Age Correct Retinal Hand Crme
can help. For faster, more dramatic results, see your doctor. He
can perform a procedure called sclerotherapy, where an
irritating solution is injected into the veins to reduce the size.
Or, he may recommend a laser treatment to vaporize smaller
veins.

Iman

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Common Hand Problems

If youve neglected your hands for some time or have had to abuse them over the
years in order to put food on the table, you may find that a little TLC just isnt
enough. What can you do if you find yourself with age spots, swollen hands, or
extremely dry hands? Take a look:

Age Spots

As I said earlier, age spots (also called liver spots)
dont necessarily go hand-in-hand with age. Those
dark little spots that can pepper your face, hands, and
chest occur when skin is repeatedly exposed to
ultraviolet rays from the sun.

If the spot isnt too dark, you may be able to lighten it with
an over-the-counter bleaching product, like Porcelana.
These commercial solutions contain a 2% solution of
hydroquinone and can work effectively. Follow the
products directions carefully, and discontinue use if skin
becomes irritated. Darker spots require a 3% solution,
which is only available by prescription.

You can also minimize the effect by regularly using an Alpha Hydroxy Acid
(AHA) lotion. AHAs loosen old, dead cells on the skins surface and can get
rid of age spots by exfoliating superficial pigmentation.

Keep in mind that since this damage occurred over time, its going to take a little
time to fix. Dont expect miracles overnight. It may take a few months to a year
to see a difference. Just keep with it -- and be diligent in your sun protection
routine to prevent any further damage.

Swollen Fingers

Your fingers can swell for a variety of reasons, including allergies, PMS,
pregnancy and kidney problems. The medical term is edema [i-dee-muh], and it
occurs when fluid accumulates in a part of the body where it doesnt belong.

Heres what you can do to reduce routine causes of edema:

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1. Maintain a high-fiber diet.

2. Increase your protein intake.

3. Decrease salt intake and limit salty foods.

4. Avoid alcohol, caffeine, and pickled foods.

5. Exercise daily.

6. Add a high-potency B-complex supplement (like B6, 50mg) to help
reduce water retention.

7. Get tested for food allergies. Allergy is the most common reason for
retaining fluids.

If these steps dont seem to sufficiently reduce the swelling, see your doctor.

Extremely Dry Hands

Very dry hands are often the result of too much hard work
and too little TLC. If your hands are frequently exposed
to harsh chemicals, frequent washings, and too little
moisturizing, give them the care they deserve.

Start by moisturizing with a heavy cream or lotion after
every hand washing. If hands are extremely dry and
cracked, try products specially formulated for dry
hands, like Corn Huskers Lotion or AmLactin.

For cheap, deep moisturizing, slather your hands with
Vaseline Petroleum Jelly before you crawl into bed
at night, put on cotton gloves, and sleep in them. Your
hands will be amazingly soft the next morning. Repeat
as often as needed.

Corn Huskers Lotion
Drugstore.com

So what do you need to remember when caring for your hands? If you take care
of them, theyll take care of you. Moisture and pamper to keep them soft and
supple, and theyll take you gently into old age.

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How to Get Beautiful Nails

Beautiful nails. It seems that either youre born with
them, or youre not. Keeping them can be a
challenge. No sooner do you get all ten nails one
length, it seems, then they start breaking or chipping
of their own accord. Why is that? More importantly,
what can you do about it?

Lets take a look:
BASIC NAIL CARE

The nails on the fingers and toes are made of a hard protein called keratin. The
nails help to protect the fingers and toes from trauma, and usually do a good job
of it under normal circumstances. The average nail takes about 90 days to grow
from base to tip. Like hair and skin, nails will become brittle and weak if
subjected to neglect and poor diet.

Want great looking natural nails without a lot of bother and fuss? Heres how
you do it:

Eat foods that are rich in iron, calcium, vitamin B and potassium, like dairy
products, seafood, celery, and soy.

Drink 8 glasses of water every day to hydrate the body, including your nails.
Weak and splitting nails can often be traced to poor water intake.

Remember that sun and chlorine can make nails brittle. Use sunscreen on
your hands, and moisturize well after swimming.

Wear gloves when cleaning with harsh chemicals, washing dishes, or
gardening. Keep gloves handy in your work areas and use them religiously.

Avoid using perfumed lotions that contain alcohol if your nails are brittle.
This will only exacerbate the problem.

Dont bite your nails.

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Dont use your nails as tools to open letters, boxes, scrape stuff off surfaces,
etc. Use the pads of the fingers instead. Not only will this save your nails, it
makes you look more graceful as well.

Always use a hand lotion or cream after washing your hands. Soaps and
cleaners dry out hands and nails.

Keeping your nails neat and tidy is as important as clean hair and pressed
clothes. People notice the details, so take time to attend to them. A few minutes
is all it takes to have a nice looking set of nails. Well get to basic manicures in
just a moment, but first, lets look at what kinds of nails are best for you.

NAILS FOR YOUR LIFESTYLE

So, do you need to have a long, lovely set of nails? Maybe, maybe not. If you
have the time and budget to maintain them and youre in the spotlight a lot, then
perhaps its appropriate. But if your days are spent on an archeological dig or on
your hands and knees scrubbing floors, maybe not.

Here are some suggestions for nail lengths and manicures, depending on your
line of work:

Medium to Long, Painted

This length is popular in image related businesses
like advertising, cosmetics, entertainment, fashion,
interior design, jewelry, perfume, speaking, etc.
Long, lovely nails imply that you have the time and
money to maintain them, and that you dont do a lot
of manual labor.

Short to Medium, Painted

This is the choice of many professionals, like
accountants, architects, attorneys, business
consultants, physicians, teachers, writers, etc.
Nicely maintained short to medium length nails
show that you dont let your nails interfere with
your work, but that you have the time and resources
to maintain a manicure.

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Short, Clear Polish

If your hands are your livelihood, this is probably
your manicure of choice. Chefs, gardeners, tailors,
and many artists will opt for this look, because it
allows them to look professional without having to
dig stuff out from under their nails all the time.
Neatly trimmed with a clear polish, it shows the
world that you care about how your hands look, but
longer nails would interfere with your work.

If youre in a business environment, always opt for classic nail colors like red,
burgundy, pink, or clear, or wear a French manicure (white tips). Long nails in
wild colors or patterns are best saved for weekends and vacations because they
pull attention away from the business at hand.

Whatever you choose, do be consistent in your care and your nail length.
Nothing looks worse than an old, chipped manicure, or two long nails
surrounded by eight short neighbors. People look at your paws, a modeling
agent once told me. Shes right. So take care of them.

One man I knew, a jeweler, had a standing appointment with his manicurist.
You cant show expensive jewels with a workmans hands, he once told me.
Since he made very good money, he obviously knew what he was talking about.
Consider what your nails say about you.

MANICURES 101

Want a nice manicure, but your schedule or budget wont allow for a weekly trip
to the salon? No problem! Just do it yourself.

The Basic Manicure

Set aside a few minutes (15-20) every week to look after your nails.

1. Assemble the tools youll need for the job, including:

Cotton Balls, Swabs, or Pads
Acetone-Free Nail Polish Remover

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Bowl of Warm Soapy Water
Orange Stick
Nail File or Emery Board
Nail Brush
Hand Cream
Clear Nail Polish
Nail Polish

2. Remove any old nail polish. Moisten a cotton ball or
pad with polish remover and press over the nail for about
10 seconds to soften the polish. This helps dissolve the
polish without overly rubbing nails and cuticles.

3. Shape the nail using a file or emery board. File from corner to center. Do
NOT file in a seesaw motion as this will create ridges in the nail and may lead to
splitting.
Never file deep into the corners of the nail. Filing the corners weakens the
sides of the nail, which are very important for overall strength. Allow
your nail to grow out at the sides so theyll look longer and wear better.
4. Soak hands in warm, sudsy water for a few minutes and use a clean nailbrush
to remove any dirt under the nails, if applicable. Gently clean under the tip with
an orangewood stick. Dry thoroughly.

5. Should you use the orangewood stick to push back the cuticle at this point?
There are two schools of thought. One would say yes, absolutely. The second
would say no, pushing back the cuticle might lead to infection. You decide.

6. Massage a good moisturizer into and around the nail bed and hands and
remove any excess with a cotton swab or a piece of cotton wrapped around the
orangewood stick.

7. Apply clear nail polish to the nail and allow it to dry. This helps protect the
nail from discoloration and creates a smooth surface for your colored polish.

You could also use a base coat, ridge filler, or nail strengthener in lieu of the
clear nail polish, if you like. Since all of these products pretty much do the same
thing, clear polish keeps the process simple and inexpensive.

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8. Apply a thin layer of colored polish. Start at the base
of the center of the nail, and use three strokes to cover the
entire surface. Middle, left side, right side, youre done!
Allow this coat to dry and apply a second using the same
technique.

9. Once the second layer of color is dry, apply another coat of clear polish to
seal in the color and help prevent the color from chipping. You could use a
product described as a top coat, but again, using clear polish keeps everything
simple.

Allow the final coat to dry thoroughly before putting on jewelry, getting dressed,
folding laundry, etc., or you could smudge and smear your way into a fix job.
Also, forget about trying to polish your nails right before you go to bed. No
matter how much time Ive allowed the polish to dry, the crisscross pattern of
sheet fabric always seems to appear come morning. Go figure.

So what if you dont like to polish your nails or dont have time for four coats of
polish to dry? Opt for one layer of clear polish to make your nails shiny and
give them a little protection.

The French Manicure

If youre a little more adventuresome and adept at
working with polish, you might want to consider trying
a French Manicure. With this style, you paint the tips
white and leave the rest of the nail neutral. Its classic,
easy to maintain, and usually looks very elegant.

Heres how you can do it yourself:

1. Hit the drugstore or beauty supply center to pick up the necessary tools: clear
polish, tip guide, neutral polish, and white polish. Neutral polishes are very pale,
very sheer shades in pink, beige, or peach, and should approximate your natural
nail color while complimenting your skin tone. Some French Manicure kits
offer everything in one box, which makes it very convenient.

2. Clip and shape your nails to prepare them for polish. Tend to your cuticles, if
thats your preference, then wash and dry them thoroughly.

3. Apply one coat of clear nail polish as a base coat and let it dry.

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4. Peel off a guide strip and affix it below the tip of the nail, following its
natural curve. Cant figure out where to place the guide? Go by the length of
your nails. Generally, the longer the nail, the longer the white tip should be.
Make sure the arch of the guide is smooth and rounded and that all your tip
lengths are relatively consistent. Use the tip of the orange stick, if necessary, to
help you apply the guides, and cut yourself some slack if its not perfect the first
time. Remember, practice makes perfect.

Can you paint without a guide? Of course. But since it allows you to paint an
even white tip with ease and precision, youll save yourself time and frustration
by using a guide. Go freehand when youre more experienced.

5. Paint each nail tip white, taking the brush from the top of the guide to the end
of the nail. Try not to get any white polish on the body of the nail below the
guide. Let the tips dry.

6. Remove all the guides. If you have any leftover adhesive, you can usually
remove it by gently rubbing a cotton swab dipped in alcohol over the area.

7. Apply two coats of the neutral polish, allowing the first coat to dry in
between. If your neutral color is very opaque, opt for one layer only of the
neutral shade. When the second coat is dry, finish the job with a thin layer of
clear or top coat.

If the classic French Manicure is a little too
conservative for your tastes, try different
combinations of colors on the weekend or when
youre going on vacation. Instead of white and
neutral, try white with silver or gold tips, red with
black tips, or any combination that you prefer.

ChristiesNails.com

Other Nail Polish Tips

Here are some polish tips to keep in the back of your mind:

If your nail polish is too thick, use nail polish thinner.

Keep polish in the refrigerator to make it last longer.

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Try not to use nail polish remover more than once a week, as it causes
nails to dry out. Dry nails crack and split more easily than nails that are
hydrated (moisturized).

If your nails are stained from nail polish, dirt, or bacteria, you can apply a
bleach solution with a cotton swab to get the stain out. Mix 10 parts water
to one part bleach, soak your cotton swab (or cotton ball attached to an
orangewood stick) in it, then rub the cotton over the stain on your nail.
This should remove all or most of the stain.

THE PROS AND CONS OF ARTIFICIAL NAILS

So, should you get fake nails? Many women really like them. If you have
weak or brittle nails or if youre all thumbs when it comes to do-it-yourself
beauty, artificial nails may be an option. Just be sure to go into the situation with
your eyes open.

Like hair color or a short haircut, having artificial nails requires a commitment of
both time and money. Heres what youll need to consider:

Pros
Consistent nail length
Professional application
Regular grooming
Lovely nails

Cons
Regular maintenance, approximately every two weeks
$20-$30 per salon visit, + tip
Emergency repairs extra
Long-term wear weakens natural nails

If youre thinking about getting your nails done for a special occasion, like a
wedding, anniversary, or reunion, and are not planning on keeping them up after
Did You Know?

Nail polish was invented in China about 5,000 years ago, and red and black were the
most popular colors. During the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), polish was made from a
combination of beeswax, egg whites, gelatin, vegetable dyes and Arabic gum. The
polish we use today is a refined version of car paint.

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the big event, tell that to your nail technician and see what she suggests.
Acrylics never look nice as they grow out, and most women I know damage their
natural nails by scraping or picking off the artificial nail. See if you can find a
good-looking alternative for your special day, like just a simple shape and paint
job.

Tips on Traveling

When you travel, maintaining your nails can be a chore. Here
are some suggestions for a trouble-free trip:

1. Opt for a French manicure. It goes with everything
and generally shows less wear and tear than colored
polish.

2. Take nail polish remover pads instead of a bottle of nail polish
remover, which may leak.

3. Keep your polish in a zipped plastic bag to contain leaks during travel.

4. If its vital that your nails look perfect for a special event in your
destination city, and you wear sculptured or acrylic nails, hit the Internet
before you go to find nail salons in the town where youll be staying.

Find one or two that look promising and print out their web site
information. Put the pages in your personal documents folder for
reference. You may never need them, but if you must look great no matter
what, having a Plan B is a smart move.

5. Always take along clippers and a fingernail file. Even if you dont
paint your nails, you should keep them neat, clean and a consistent length.

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Basic Foot Care

Now that weve looked at hands, lets take a quick look at feet. Since they often
take a lot of abuse over the years -- just like your hands -- take extra care with
them so theyll look and feel good whatever time of year.

Heres how:

Use a pumice stone regularly to remove cracked and
dry skin. Take it into the bath or shower with you.
Just before youre ready to get out, when your feet
are good and moist and your skin is malleable, lather
up a little soap on your heel and rub the pumice
stone across it for several seconds. This will help
exfoliate the dry skin.

Always put lotion on your feet after bathing. Once youre out of the tub
and have dried off, slather you feet with lotion and sit for a few minutes to
allow the moisturizer to sink in.

Keep toenails trimmed and of a uniform, short length.

Wear slippers around your house in the winter to keep feet warm and
reduce exposure to temperature extremes.

Wear shoes that keep your feet warm and dry in inclement weather. If that
style doesnt work with the clothes you want to wear, take the fashion
shoes with you to wear at your destination.

For a quick fix, try the same moisture-intense treatment that you did for
your hands: before you crawl into bed at night, slather your feet in
Vaseline Petroleum Jelly, put on a pair of cotton socks, and sleep in
them.

Doing just these few things should keep your skin soft and
supple year around. Remember, just because your feet are
stuffed in shoes all winter doesnt mean you should neglect
them until sandal weather. In fact, if you maintain them all
year long, getting them beach ready wont be a problem.

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Common Foot Problems

Sometimes, routine care just isnt enough. Because of the abuse they take
carrying us around every day, feet can still end up with problems. Here are some
of the most common:

Athletes Foot

Athletes foot is a fungus that usually develops between the
toes. Wet, damp feet kept in dark, moist socks or shoes can
lead to Athletes Foot or other fungal infections, which is
why swimming pools, showers, and locker rooms places
where athletes frequent are ideal breeding grounds for the
fungus. Heres how to protect yourself:

APMA.org

1. Dry your feet carefully after bathing, showering, or swimming. Be
sure to dry in between toes.

2. Wear shoes made from leather or natural materials. Dont wear
waterproof or rubber shoes everyday if you can avoid it. These materials
hold moisture.

3. Wear 100% cotton socks and change them frequently. If youre prone
to sweaty feet, take an extra pair of socks with you and change them
during the day.

4. Wear shower shoes or flip flops when using community showers.

5. Rotate your shoes, particularly gym shoes. Dont wear the same pair
every day; allow them to dry in between each wearing.

6. Consider shoe liners. Some reduce foot moisture.

Cracked Heels

Cracked heels, also known as heel fissures, are
commonly caused by dry skin. If the cracks are deep,
they can be painful to stand on and the skin can bleed.

Factors that can exacerbate cracked heels include:

ePodiatry.com

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Prolonged standing
Being overweight
Thin-soled shoes
Open-heeled shoes
Medical conditions like psoriasis and eczema

To combat cracked heels:

Use a pumice stone regularly to break down the dry skin
Apply lotion twice a day, in the morning and at night
Wear thick-soled, closed-heeled shoes

Never try to remove the dry skin with a razor or other sharp instrument; it could
lead to infection. See a podiatrist for severe cases.

Corns and Calluses

Corns and calluses develop when your shoes repeatedly rub
your feet the wrong way. These extra layers of hard, dry
skin develop to protect the pressure points of your foot. If a
corn grows thick enough to press on the nerves, it can hurt.

To treat this pesky problem, soften the corn by soaking your
feet in plain lukewarm water for five or ten minutes. Then,
while feet are still immersed, use a pumice stone or synthetic
abrasive pad to rub off the dead skin a little at a time.

ePodiatry.com
Dry thoroughly and use a moisturizing cream to help keep your skin soft.

Cushion the worst offenders by tucking a tuft of lambs wool (available at
drugstores) between your toes. If you feel compelled to use one of the adhesive-
backed, doughnut-shaped pieces of moleskin to pad the corn while it heals,
remember to wear shoes large enough to accommodate the padding. Dont
exacerbate the problem by stuffing your foot into tight shoes.

Bunions

Bunions develop when the knobby lump that forms at
the outside of the big-toe joint becomes sore and
swollen, irritating nearby nerves. This usually happens
when your feet have been encased in shoes that press
against the bunion.

ePodiatry.com

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To reduce the pain:

Try ice. If your bunion feels hot and swollen, it may be inflamed. Cool it
down by applying a cloth-covered ice pack. Apply for 10 or 15 minutes,
then remove for a few minutes to let your foot warm up before applying
again.

Caution: If you have diabetes or chronic circulation problems in your feet,
avoid ice for any foot problems.

Measure your foot. Give bunions plenty of space. Get the pressure off
your bunions by wearing the right size shoe. Always get your foot
measured when buying shoes.

Try men's footwear. If you cant find your width in womens shoes, try
mens. Theyre usually cut wider.

Get arch support. This also helps distribute your body weight evenly across
your entire foot surface.

Have a problem thats not listed here? You can learn more about other
kinds of foot problems at Epodiatry.com and at The American Podiatric
Medical Association website, APMA.org .

It all boils down to this: as with so many things, if you take a few minutes every
day to care for your feet, theyll look great with a minimum of fuss. Wear shoes
that fit properly, attend to anything abnormal, and take care of your feet.
Theyre the only pair youre going to get.

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PERFECT PEDICURES

Warm weather and pedicures go hand in hand. If you take a few minutes to get
your feet in shape, you can slip on a sexy pair of straps or sandals with only a
moments notice.

Heres how:

1. Soak you feet for about ten minutes and pat them dry.

2. Clip toenails straight across, or if you prefer, use an emery board (wait
until toenails are dry).

3. Remove any rough areas with a pumice stone.

4. Apply foot lotion and massage into each foot. Remove any excess
lotion.

5. If you want to apply polish, use the same technique as you did for your
fingernails: one clear coat, two coats of color, one clear coat to finish.
Paint one stroke down the center of the nail, then a stroke down either side
to fill in the color.

6. Clean clippers with alcohol and store until the next use.

Taking the time to keep your feet groomed pays big dividends. Not only will
you look great in sandals, youll have healthy feet that will take you wherever
you want to go.

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FRAGRANCE
To attract men, I wear a perfume
called New Car Interior.''
Rita Rudner

Whenever I catch a drift of Estee Lauders Youth Dew wafting through
the air, I think of my friend, Pat. Light and spicy with a hint of the orient,
its her signature scent. When I told her how much I liked it one time, she
gave me a bottle of it for my birthday. But I only wore it once. Why?
Because its HER scent. It just didnt smell the same on me.

Sound familiar?

Perfume is such a personal choice, and with prices the way they are, not
one to be taken lightly. Finding the right scent can be a
challenge...unless you know what youre looking for. Lets take a few
minutes to shed some light on this intoxicating accessory.

A Brief History of Perfume

The use of fragranced materials goes back thousands of years. The word
"perfume" comes from the Latin per fum meaning "through smoke" - reflecting
one of the oldest uses of aromatic materials: the burning of incense and herbs as
a religious offering. The Ancient Egyptians were particularly famous for their
use of perfumes, and they used them in many forms.

Frankincense and myrrh were exuded from the resin of local
trees and were used widely throughout the Mediterranean.
Fragrant extracts of many other plants such as rose, henna,
lily and peppermint were produced by steeping the plant in
oil or fat to produce salves or ointments. These could then
be rubbed on the skin.

Around 1400 B.C., the most refined people in Egypt would place a cone of
scented grease on their heads, which would slowly melt with the heat of the body
and the warm atmosphere to bathe their head and body in rare perfumes, and
leave their clothes clinging to their body, revealing their shape. Salves and
resins were also used in the embalming process and in funeral rituals.
9

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Just as perfumes have been around since ancient times, so too, has the tradition
of encasing perfumes in expensive and beautiful containers. Popular materials
among the Egyptians, Romans, and Greeks included alabaster, onyx and
elaborately blown glass.

As trade routes expanded from the Mediterranean region to
India and China, new materials became available. By the
Middle Ages, sandalwood, cloves and cinnamon from the
Far East were important in Western Europe. The spices
were used in perfumes and medicine as well as for food.
Pomanders (balls made of resins, powdered spices, scented
oils and water) were a popular form of perfume at the time.
They could be worn as necklaces or bracelets or held in the
hand and sniffed to mask foul odors, which were abundant at
this time. They were also used to try to ward off the plague
and other diseases.

Cloves

Cinnamon

After the Arabs developed the process of distillation in the 7th or 8th century,
perfume masters were able to produce essential oils and scented waters. These
were used for a variety of purposes, including scenting rooms and linens.

Perfume enjoyed huge success during the seventeenth century. Perfumed gloves
became popular in France and in 1656, the guild of glove and perfume-makers
was established. The use of perfume in France grew steadily. The court of Louis
XV was even named "the perfumed court" due to the scents which were applied
daily not only to the skin but also to clothing, fans and furniture.

Eau de Cologne was first introduced in 1710 and was met
with immediate success. This refreshing blend of rosemary,
neroli, bergamot and lemon was used in a multitude of
different ways, including being diluted in bath water, mixed
with wine, eaten on a sugar lump, as a mouthwash, etc. The
variety of eighteenth-century perfume containers was as
wide as that of the fragrances and their uses. Glass became
increasingly popular, particularly in France when the
Baccarat factory opened in 1765.

The development of organic chemistry in the 1800s allowed the production of
synthetic perfume materials, which greatly reduced the cost of creating
fragrances. Colorful, unstable, quirky, and expensive, natural essences

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demanded an exacting science that kept the cost of production high and the
recipes for perfumes much-coveted secrets. After synthetics were introduced,
perfume became affordable to the masses and the billion-dollar perfume industry
was born.

When French perfumery hit its peak in the 1950s, designers like Christian Dior,
Jacques Fath, Nina Ricci, Pierre Balmain and others started creating their own
scents. Its a tradition that continues throughout couture today.

Did You Know?

The best selling perfume in the world is STILL Chanel No. 5? Created for Coco Chanel
by Ernest Beaux in 1921, Chanel No. 5 was the fifth in a line of fragrances Ernest Beaux
presented her. Another popular Chanel fragrance? Chanel No. 19.

How Perfume Is Made

So now that weve learned a little bit about how perfumes and other scents have
evolved, what actually goes into perfume?

At its most basic level, perfume is a solution of pleasant-smelling materials in
solvent, usually alcohol plus water.

Since a single scent is pretty boring, the art comes in mixing the scents,
sometimes dozens of them chosen from among thousands, to create something
unique and different. Composed of three notes or layers, a typical mixture
usually contains very volatile scents for the initial top note, less volatile scents
for the sustained aroma, and persistent scents for the final end note. Fixatives
alter the rates of vaporization and allow the scent to sustain its smell.

So what are the notes again?

The Top Note is the most volatile and quickest to evaporate.
While its the first thing you smell, its also the first scent to
dissipate. Typical oils used in top notes include anise, basil,
chamomile, coriander, lavender, mandarin, marigold, and
spearmint.

Lavender Field

The Middle Note is the balancing and most therapeutic layer, and generally
forms the greatest proportion of the blend. Oils used in middle notes include

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cinnamon, frankincense, ginger, hyacinth, jasmine, myrrh, nutmeg, orchid,
oriental rose, thyme, and violets.

The Base Note is the least volatile, longest lasting, and
slowest to evaporate. These are usually roots, gums, or
resins, and include things like benzoin, cedarwood,
heliotrope, olibanum, sandalwood, and vanilla.
Vanilla Beans

Did you know that you can select fragrance by scent categories, just as you
would select a fine bottle of wine? Popular womens categories include:

Floral - This is the largest category, and it includes
fragrances whose primary ingredients are derived from
flowers such as jasmine, rose, violet, carnation, orange-
blossom, gardenia, ylang-ylang, etc.
Examples: Carolina Herrera, Paris, White Diamonds

Oriental - Generally full-bodied compositions that create an exotic, warm
impression due to the inclusion of ingredients like spices, musk, balsams, and
resins.
Examples: Shalimar, Royal Secret, Contradiction

Chypre - pronounced "sheepra", chypre is French for "Cyprus" and was first
used by Franois Coty to describe his impression of aromas he encountered on
the island of Cyprus. He created a woodsy, mossy, citrusy perfume named
Chypre, which is no longer made, but the word is still used to describe
fragrances that are made in that style. Chypre fragrances generally owe their soft,
sweet, earthy natures to ingredients like bergamot, oakmoss, citruses, and that
60's favorite, patchouli (making a comeback!).
Examples: Y, Dalimix

Citrus - These are compositions where citrus fruits like lime,
lemon, tangerine, mandarin and bergamot are blended to
create a fragrance that has effervescent or exhilarating
qualities. Its more common in men's fragrances, but
increasingly popular in women's, too. Its also one of the
oldest fragrance categories, dating back to ancient times.
Example: CK One

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Fougre - pronounced "foozh-air", French for "fern", these are fragrances with
fresh, herbaceous notes on a mossy, fernlike base.
Example: Cool Water

Green - These are compositions where the predominant notes
are derived from green plant parts and notes such as pine,
juniper, grass, leaves, and herbs.
Example: Safari, Bvlgari Extrme

When you think of all the natural materials that can be evaporated, mashed,
distilled, or whatever to make essential oils (or synthetics thereof), the
combinations are almost limitlesswhich is probably why there are so many
perfumes on the market today!

The Strength of Perfumes

So whats the difference between perfume, eau de toilette, slash cologne, etc?

Its the ratio of essential oil to water and alcohol.

Perfume is the strongest, while splash cologne is the weakest. Heres a visual to
help you see the differences:

Type of Liquid Amount of Essential
Oil
Balance of Alcohol

Perfume 15-30% 90-95%
Eau de perfume 8-15% 80-90%
Eau de toilette 4-8% 80-90%
Eau de cologne 3-5% 70%
Splash cologne 1-3% 80%

In case you were wondering, eau is the French word
for water. The more water a fragrance has, the less
essential oil it contains. Since the oil is the most
expensive component, prices decrease as the amount of
oil used decreases.

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Who Knows? The Nose!

Ever heard of a nose? In the perfume industry, its the person who creates fragrances.
There was a time when the job of perfume-maker was handed down from father to son,
but times have changed and now there are several schools dedicated to the science of
perfume-making. Today, there are only three major French perfume-makers (Chanel,
Guerlain, and Jean Patou) that have heir own in-house blender. Most of the other
designers license their name to third party perfume makers.

The Wear and Care of Your Favorite Scent

So now that you have an understanding of why perfume is so costly, are there
any special tips you need to know regarding its wear and care? You bet! Here
are a few guidelines for getting the most of this product:

1. Use It or Lose It

Unlike fine wine, fragrance does not get better with age.
So use it or lose it, baby! For maximum shelf life, store
fragrance away from bright sunlight, in a cool, dark area,
with the cap tightly secured. Fragrance oils can turn rancid
or evaporate if improperly stored.

Colognes and eau de toilettes (not parfum) may be kept in the refrigerator in
order to maintain their freshness. Fragrances usually last 3 years from the date
they were manufactured, not the day you buy it. Buy from department stores and
other reputable sources to ensure the quality of the fragrance.

2. Apply With Care

When using an eau de cologne, eau de toilette, or eau de parfum, spray or dab
liberally on the skin. These versions of fragrance are designed to be used all
over. Spray in the air and walk into a cloud of scent for an even, head to toe
experience!

Perfume, the most concentrated version of scent, is designed to be applied at the
pulse points, on the wrists, behind the neck, in the dcollet, behind the ears, or
even behind the knees. Your body warmth will radiate the scent.

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3. Linger, Not Overpower

Ever been gagged by a heavy-handed perfume wearer? Me too. Want to know
who usually falls into this category? Older women. Why? Because fragrance
doesnt last as long on dry and maturing skin as it does skin with normal or
heavy oil content. The oil holds the scent. So to compensate, they apply more to
begin with.

Dont do this. If you have dry or mature skin, try
changing to a lighter version of what you are wearing,
perhaps an Eau de Toilette. Or try "layering" fragrance
by using several products in a line. Begin with scented
soap or bath oil, follow with body lotion or crme, dust
with powder to set the fragrance, and follow with
perfume at the pulse points, or an all-over spritz of eau de
parfum. Use body crme for extra nourishment in cold
winter months.

4. Stay Out of The Sun

What do you get when you mix alcohol and fire? A burn. What do you get
when you mix the alcohol in perfume with the suns rays? The same thing. So
dont spritz yourself with scent and then lay out in the sun. The alcohol
promotes burning and may even leave you with brown spots on your skin.

5. Beware the Watch Band

If you wear a watch, the perfume can react to the plastic or leather strap. So
dont spray the pulse-point on your wrist. Instead, try some of these other areas:

Behind your ears
Behind your knees
Between your breasts
In your hair

6. Reactive the Scent

You can reactivate the faded scent on your skin by simply rubbing it.

142
7. Change with the Seasons

There are certain fragrances that are more appropriate for summer and other,
stronger scents that would be better for winter use. Citrus scents are perfect for
summer while Orientals are better for winter.

8. Develop a Perfume Wardrobe

How many different types of fragrances should you
have and wear? The Fragrance Foundation, an
industry association, suggests a minimum of four
scent types to start a wardrobe: a floral, an oriental,
a chypre, and a green. These will carry you through
various climates and occasions, and you can
enhance your wardrobe from there.

9. Its All In The Chemistry

Have you ever adored a scent for years, only to have it suddenly stop working
for you? Youre not alone. There are a number of reasons this can happen.

If you have changed your diet, moved to a new climate, began taking a new
medication, or if you are under more stress than usual, your body chemistry can
affect your skins reaction to a fragrance. The rise and fall of hormone levels
can do the same thing. So its not your imagination...its your chemistry!

Create Your Signature Scent

Perfume snobs compare buying fragrance in a store to going to
a drive thru for dinner: its okay for the masses, but not for
connoisseurs. True aficionados have scents made for them.
Whether they do it themselves or engage someone else to do
the chemistry, theres nothing like having a scent made just for
you. Except, perhaps, having clothes made just for you.

Here are some places that can make scents just for you:

Bourbon French Perfumes
http://www.neworleansperfume.com

143
My Pampered Rose
http://www.mypamperedrose.com/

RomanceHer.com
http://www.romanceher.com/perfume.htm

Scent Design
http://www.scentdesign.net

Whether you have a scent created just for you or go with the for the
masses option, DO find a scent that says you, so whenever someone
else smells your scent, theyll immediately think of you.

Recommended Reading

Want more information about perfume or the perfume industry? Here are
some good books on the subject:

From Amazon.com, http://www.amazon.com :

Essence and Alchemy : A Book of Perfume by Mandy Aftel (ISBN:
0865475539)

Perfume: The Art and Science of Scent, by Cathy Newman, Robb
Kendrick (ISBN: 0792273788)

Perfume : The Ultimate Guide to the World's Finest Fragrances by N.
St. J. Groom (ISBN: 0762406062)

Fabulous Fragrances II : A Guide to Prestige Perfumes for Women
and Men by Jan Moran (ISBN: 0963906542)

144

POSTURE

A good stance and posture reflect a proper state of mind.
--Morihei Ueshiba (Martial Artist)

Stand up straight. Dont slouch. Shoulders back. Chin up.

Ever hear those phrases as a kid?

Most children do. Because proper posture, like nice manners and a good
education, will take you far in life just as a lack thereof may hold you back.
When your back is straight and your head is high, it makes you look taller,
thinner, younger, and more confident. But when you slump your shoulders and
crumple your midsection, you come across as just the opposite.

Standing and sitting properly is also better for you physically than slouching and
slumping. Proper alignment creates a solid core with strong bones and firm
muscles. Improper alignment can lead to back trouble, hip issues, and other
problems associated with the spine.

Back when women wore corsets, they had little choice but to sit up straight.
Encased with boning from ribs to hips, they could barely breathe let alone
slouch. For all the damage that corsets did, they did promote good posture (until
the S-shape corset came along in the late 1800s, that is).

In the 1940s and 50s, once corsets were long gone,
movies of the time show how proper young women
learned to walk by balancing a book on their heads. This
little exercise forced proper alignment and created a
gliding, lady-like walk. No dragging feet or stomping
around like a lumberjack or that book would fall on the
floor.

Today, straight backs and lady-like walks are about as rare as well-fitting,
modest attire in a college classroom. When you see someone with a straight
back and who knows how to walk, sit, and climb stairs like a lady, you know it
isnt by accident. Either shes had some ballet training, or shes worked on her
posture.

10

145
So if its been awhile since youve given your posture and walk serious
consideration, I encourage you to revisit the matter. For not only will you send a
more positive message with a stronger, more powerful silhouette, youll also put
less stress on your joints and muscles from poor body alignment.

Heres what you need to do when:

Standing

Imagine a plumb line extending from the top of your
head through your body to your feet. Your ears,
shoulders, hips, knees, and ankles should be in a straight
line, with your weight on the inner margin ball of the
foot, which is just behind the big toe. If youre not sure
everything is aligned properly, hang a tape measure or
string on a full-length mirror and check the alignment by
standing sideways in front of the mirror and matching
your alignment to the string.

When youre standing, keep your head high, shoulders back, chest out, and
stomach tucked in. It helps to imagine a carousel pole going straight up and
down through your body. If you stand all day at your job, like at a store or in a
lab, rest one foot on a short stool from time to time or take breaks to get off your
feet.

Sitting

Sit with your hips as far back in the chair as they
will go, preferably in a straight-back chair. Your
feet should either be flat on the ground, side by
side, or with one foot slightly ahead of the other.

Alternately, you can wrap your ankles together
and put them slightly off-center under your
chair, near one of the front legs. All of these
positions will allow you to properly align you
head, shoulders, and hips in a straight line, so
youll be less likely to fatigue quickly.

Good Posture

Poor Posture

146
If youll be sitting for long periods of time, like in front of a computer or at a
desk, slip a small pillow or rolled towel behind the small of your back to help
maintain your posture.

Warning: if youre not used to sitting or standing with good posture, it will take
a little time to master. Your muscles wont be used to the new position, so they
may get a little tired at first. But stick with it. Youll only be uncomfortable for
a short time, and the benefits far outweigh the slight discomfort.

Walking

Start in the properly-aligned standing position and
being walking slowly. Swing the legs from the hip
socket and avoid swaying the derriere. Step heel--
outside edge of foot--big toe with each step, keeping
your body in proper alignment. Your gait should be
natural and appropriate for your height, neither too
small nor too big. To make sure youre walking
smoothly, make like your mother and balance a book
on your head. If your spine is properly aligned, it
wont fall.

Going Up and Down Stairs

This one is a little tricky.

With a strong, properly aligned back, you should be able to go up and down
stairs gracefully without relying on the banister. To get the proper mood,
imagine that youre a princess in a sweeping ball gown, floating down an
enormous staircase into a grand ballroom full of people.

Keeping your head up, shoulders back and back
straight, step toe-outside edge of foot (no heel)
to go up stairs, toe-outside edge of foot-heel to
go down. Dont lean forward or swing your hips
to climb the stairs and dont lean back or clop
flat-footed to go down. Use your thigh muscles
to control a graceful descent, keeping your gaze
forward, not watching your feet.

Going Up

Going Down
Banister not required

147
Wearing Heels

Your posture and alignment are best in bare feet or flat shoes. If you throw heels
into the mix, it forces you to reset your center a little bit because your weight is
thrust forward by your shoes. Again, try to keep your weight on the inner
margin ball of the foot (right behind the big toe) for proper alignment. While
low and mid-heel heights (up to 3 inches) are generally easy to accommodate,
very high heels (greater than 4) are not. Wear them infrequently or not at all to
avoid mis-aligning your spine.

Taking the time to work on your posture will not only make you appear taller,
thinner, younger, and more confident, it will also result in less shoulder, lower
back, and leg pain from fatiguing your body with improper alignment. If youre
having trouble maintaining the proper position, ballet, yoga, or Pilates classes
will help, as will some martial arts training. You could also study body
movement (Kinesiology).

Want to feel beautiful and turn heads? Then stand up straight! and let people
take notice. Youll be amazed at the difference it makes.

Resources

Need to strengthen your back a little to achieve proper alignment?

These resources might help:

Body Zone Solutions
http://www.bodyzone.com/custom/posture_exercise.html

Gymball exercises
http://gymball.com/sitting_posture.html

Good Housekeeping Article
http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/health/womens/slouching-posture-
may04

2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty for All Ages
148

CONCLUSION

Beauty pleases the eyes only;
Sweetness of disposition charms the soul.
--Voiltaire

When you look and feel beautiful, you communicate that to the world. It
comes across in how you present yourself and others will look and notice.
Whether youre eighteen or eighty, a size six or a size sixteen, when you feel
good about yourself, it shows.

Now I realize that its not always easy to be in top form. When youre
young, dont have a lot of expenses, and can focus your time and money on
yourself, its a lot easier to look great all the time than when you have a lot
of demands from jobs and families and no time for yourself. But take the
time. Schedule it and dont feel guilty. Just as your car needs regular
maintenance to perform efficiently, so too, do you need time to revitalize in
order to look and feel your best.

So take stock of your current situation. If you dont like your hair or
makeup, update it. If youre tired of dealing with acne, try a different
approach. If youre having back or joint problems, improve your posture.
In short, if what youre doing now isnt making you look and feel as
beautiful as you are, stop doing it and make a change. The power is in your
hands. All you have to do is exercise it.

Good luck!

2007 Diana Pemberton-Sikes Beauty for All Ages
149
RESOURCES FOR FURTHER STUDY

Other publications by Diana Pemberton-Sikes:

Ebooks

Accessory Magic

Business Wear
Magic

Occasion Magic

Wardrobe Magic

___________________

Seminars

Ageless Style

Budget Style

Plus Size Style

Be sure to visit FashionForRealWomen.com to learn more about our most current
publications, programs, and recommendations.
TOP DRAWER PUBLICATIONS
256 S. College Ave.
Newark, DE 19711
diana@topdrawerpublications.com
www.topdrawerpublications.com

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