THE COMMON SOURCING PROBLEM:

INVESTIGATING THE APPAREL SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT PROCESS

WITH CASE STUDIES







Andreas Valdemar Fransson
BA (Hons) Scheme in Fashion and Textiles
(Fashion Technology Specialism)




INSTITUTE OF TEXTILES & CLOTHING
THE HONG KONG POLYTECHNIC UNIVERSITY
2010



THE COMMON SOURCING PROBLEM:
INVESTIGATING THE APPAREL SAMPLE DEVELOPMENT PROCESS
WITH CASE STUDIES

A Thesis Submitted
in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements
for the degree of
Bachelor of Arts (Honours)
in
Fashion & Textiles
(Fashion Technology Specialism)
under the Supervision of
Dr. Y. L. Kwok
by
Andreas Valdemar Fransson

Institute of Textiles & Clothing
The Hong Kong Polytechnic University
May 2010
i

Acknowledgements

I would like to express my sincere gratitude to Dr. Y. L. Kwok, for her constant guidance,
invaluable advice and sustained interest throughout my preparation of this project.
I further want to express my gratitude to Nina, the production manager at the chosen
company for the research and my friend Isabel for her invaluable support of this project.
Lastly, I would like to express my gratitude to my dear friend Sharon for her efforts in
translating the survey used in this study to the Chinese language.
ii




CERTIFICATE OF ORIGINALITY

I hereby declare that this thesis is my own work and that, to the best of my knowledge and
belief, it reproduces no material previously published or written, nor material that has been
accepted for the award of any other degree or diploma, except where due acknowledgement
had been made in the text.

_____________________________________________________________(Signed)
______________________________________________________(Name of Student)

iii

Abstract
This project is an exploratory multiple case study taking on an in-depth analysis of the
sample development process currently practiced in the apparel industry. The process, which
is centralized within the apparel product development process, is a time-consuming and
costly process for many apparel companies today. By minimizing the sample development
time and optimizing the sample development process, apparel companies including buyers
and manufacturers will benefit from resource efficiency followed. This project employed a
multiple case study research approach to investigate the current sample development
processes in two apparel companies in Hong Kong. One of the companies is a private-label
retailer, sourcing its products from South China since the 1980s and the other chosen
company is an export house conducting business with multiple buyers from Europe. The
purpose of this project is to first understand the current practice of the sample development
process in the companies. Based on the findings, the process was evaluated on its
effectiveness in accordance to a number of identified factors including supplier relationship
factors and nonconformance factors which both result in unreasonable amount of rejections
and sample development time. The data for this project was collected from multiple sources
of evidence including official documents, historical company records, interviews and a
survey in order to employ a triangulation approach in data analysis using theme-forming to
construct themes that are well developed by all data collected. Following the data analysis,
critical issues were identified in the sample development process which attributes to its
ineffectiveness. A model was constructed to illustrate the relationships between these
factors and the different factors set out at the beginning of the project. Based on the model
and its definitions, recommendations were made to apply for current apparel companies
conducting similar business as the chosen case study companies. The conclusion made
was that the current sample development process is an ineffective and inefficient process
and an optimization of the process was recommended. Buyers and manufacturers in the
apparel industry needs to work closer and more effectively in order to optimize the sample
development process through joint efforts and tackle the critical issues identified in this
project.
iv

CONTENTS
Page
ACKNOWLEGEMENTS
ABSTRACT
CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION
1.1 Background of Study 1
1.2 Problem Statement 2
1.2.1 Research Problem and Theory 3
1.3 Objectives of Study 3
1.4 Scope of Study 4
1.5 Methodology 4
1.5.1 Desk Research 5
1.5.2 Field Research 5
1.6 Current Work Practice Preliminary Field Study 6
1.7 Definition of Terms 8
1.8 Structure of the Project Report 8
CHAPTER 2 LITERATURE REVIEW
2.1 Introduction 10
2.2 Product Development 10
2.2.1 Definition 10
2.2.2 The Apparel Product Development Process 10
2.2.3 The Apparel Sample Development Process 13
2.2.4 Current Models of the Apparel Sample 14
v

Development Process
2.2.5 Cost of Sample Development 18
2.2.6 Time of Sample Development 18
2.2.7 Communication during the Apparel Sample
Development Process
19
2.3 Buyer and Supplier Relationship and the Apparel Sample
Development Process
24
2.3.1 Introduction 24
2.3.2 Definition of Types of Buyer and Supplier
Relationships
24
2.3.3 Impact of Collaborative Efforts between Buyer
and Supplier on the Sample Development Process
25
2.3.4 Early Supplier Involvement in the Apparel Sample
Development Process
30
2.4 Offshore Sourcing 31
2.3.1 Hong Kong and Mainland Chinas Situation 32
2.5 Summary and Conclusion 33
CHAPTER 3 METHODOLOGY
3.1 Introduction 34
3.2 Case Study Research Design 34
3.3 Data Collection Procedures 35
3.3.1 Secondary Data: Desk Research 36
3.3.2 Primary Data: Field Research 37
3.4 Selection of Case Participants and Research Timeframe 44
vi

3.5 Data Analysis Procedure 45
3.5.1 Historical Records Data Analysis 45
3.5.2 Documentation Data Analysis 46
3.5.3 Interview Data Analysis 46
3.5.4 Survey Data Analysis 47
3.6 Case Study Report 48
3.7 Summary 48
CHAPTER 4 CASE STUDY FINDINGS
4.1 Introduction 49
4.2 Company A 49
4.2.1 Company Background 50
4.2.2 Historical Review 50
4.2.3 Sample Development Process: A Compilation of
the Interview and Survey Data
54
4.3 Company B 68
4.3.1 Company Background 69
4.3.2 Sample Development Process: A Compilation of
the Interview and Survey Data
69
4.4 Comparative Summary 77
4.5 Summary 78
vii

CHAPTER 5 ANALYSIS, DISCUSSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS
5.1 Introduction 79
5.2 Critical Issues 79
5.2.1 Nonconformance Factors 80
5.2.2 Supplier Relationship Factors 84
5.2.3 Summary 89
5.3 Model 90
5.4 Recommendations 91
5.4.1 Short-term Recommendations: Focus on
Communication
91
5.4.2 Long-term Strategic Recommendations: Focus on
Collaborative Efforts
95
5.5 Limitations 96
CHAPTER 6 CONCLUSION, SUMMARY AND FUTURE RESEARCH
6.1 Understanding of Current Sample Development Process 98
6.2 Evaluate the Effectiveness and Affect of Supplier
Relationship Factors
98
6.3 Construct a Model to Show Relationships 99
6.4 Suggest Recommendations for Process Optimization 99
6.5 Implications to Apparel Companies 99
6.6 Suggestions for Future Research 100
APPENDIX
REFERENCES
viii

List of Tables
Page
1-1 Summary of Preliminary Field Study Findings ........................................................................ 7
2-1 Summary of Different Apparel Product Development Process Models ............................. 12
3-1 Description of the Case Study theory/data/theory Revision Cycle..................................... 35
3-2 Interviewee List .......................................................................................................................... 41
3-3 Scaling of Survey Questions .................................................................................................... 43
4-1 Past Order Records Data Summary ....................................................................................... 51


ix

List of Figures
Page
2-1 Communication of Salesman Sample Development before Suggestion Source: Ying
(1998) .................................................................................................................................................. 14
2-2 Suggested Communication Process of Salesman Sample Development Source: Ying
(1998) .................................................................................................................................................. 15
2-3 Sample Development in Internal Sample-making Department Source: Pitimaneeyakul
(2001) .................................................................................................................................................. 16
2-4 Sample Development involving Overseas Manufacturer Source: Pitimaneeyakul (2001)
.............................................................................................................................................................. 16
4-1 Company A Order Process ...................................................................................................... 56
4-2 Involved Parties in Company A Sample Development Process ......................................... 57
4-3 Company B Order Process ...................................................................................................... 71
4-4 Involved Parties in Company B Sample Development Process ......................................... 72
5-1 Sample Development Process Model of Ineffectiveness (SDPI) ........................................ 73

1

1 Introduction
1.1 Background of Study
The sample development process is described as the process of assessing a designs
manufacturability, cost and feasibility to fulfill the buyers requirements, specifications and
expectations (Kincade, 2008). The majority of past literature (Ying, 1998; Pitimaneeyakul,
2001; Dowlatshahi, 1998; Kincade, 2008) has focused on the general apparel product
development process and therefore an in-depth investigation into the costly and time-
consuming sample development process is needed to identify areas of improvement,
recommend feasible methods of optimization and evaluate the effect of supplier
relationship factors. Pitimaneeyakul (2001) explained that constant improvement of the
product development process will make the process more effective and efficient which will
greatly benefit a company. By focusing on the crucial time-consuming and costly sample
development process of the apparel product development process, this project is needed
to sharpen the competitive edge of apparel companies. Furthermore, relationships need to
be proven between supplier relationship factors and the costly and time-consuming
sample development process in order to evaluate strengths and weaknesses of the
process. This study is a qualitative in-depth analysis and evaluation of the apparel
sampling process and serves as a basis for future quantitative research.
2

1.2 Problem Statement
A concept was defined to guide the researcher while conducting this research project.
This project focused on the apparel sample development process and the concept
definition of the research problem is as follows:
The Apparel Sample development process: The process starting from a
companys product specifications reaching a manufacturer in order to develop
serviceable, salable, producible and profitable products making use of prototypes
to confirm the suppliers capability to manufacture the specified product, including
the first prototype, the final approved sample and all intermediate prototypes
deemed necessary, including approvals of lab dip, strike off, fitting and accessories.
Following the concept definition to guide the researcher, the researcher defined the
operational definition of the identified research problem to guide the researcher what to do
and what to observe. The operational definition is as follows:
Unreasonably long sample development time: A longer than anticipated
sample development process with more than anticipated use of monetary
resources to fulfill the final sample approval for production.
3

1.2.1 Research Problem and Theory
Based on the concept and operational definition of the research problem, the theory to
guide this research project was defined with the utilization of information gathered from
the preliminary field study. The defined theory is:
The problem of unreasonably long sample development time depends on technical
nonconformance factors and supplier relationship factors.
1.3 Objectives of Study
The purpose of this study was to investigate and evaluate the sample development
process when sourcing apparel products for private-label retail in the apparel industry,
with the ultimate goal of optimizing that process. Based on the theory and operational
definition of the research problem, the researcher aims to understand the current sample
development process through the construction of a model, indicating main factors and
their relationship to unreasonable long sample development time to validate the initial
theory stated in Section 1.2.1. Through a clear understanding and evaluation of the
process, the researcher aims to optimize the process with financially reasonable and
practically feasible recommendations.
4

1.4 Scope of Study
Based on the theory and operational definition, the researcher has summarized the scope
of the study in four points.
1. Understand the current sample development process of existing companies
conducting sourcing business of apparel products in Hong Kong and to identify
problematic stages.
2. Evaluate the effectiveness of the sample development process by identifying
critical factors in terms of unreasonably long sample development time and how
supplier relationship factors and technical nonconformance factors affect it.
3. Construct a model to understand the causes of unreasonably long sample
development time.
4. Devise economically feasible recommendations to improve/decrease unreasonably
long sample development time.
1.5 Methodology
The researcher adopted a multiple case study approach as a guideline for the research
and employed a triangulation research analysis method by utilizing various methods for
5

research data collection, mainly divided into two categories, namely: (1) primary data
research and (2) secondary data research.
1.5.1 Desk Research
The desk research was conducted to collect secondary data from past research done
primarily on product and sample development processes and its related topics by scholars,
reference books, journals and websites. The desk research was summarized into a
literature review to consolidate fundamental concepts and theories. The literature review
was conducted to obtain general a general idea and insight at an early stage of study.
1.5.2 Field Research
A preliminary field study was conducted to obtain primary data with the aim of constructing
a general idea of actual current practice at an early stage of study. The subsequent field
research in the case studies of the research was conducted by blending qualitative and
quantitative research methods, a so-called triangulation approach, using data from
multiple and diverse data sources to validate the analysis. In-depth personal interviews
were conducted to collect qualitative primary data of the current sample development
process and a survey aimed to collect quantitative primary data of the buyer supplier
relationship in the sample development process. A pilot test was carried out both before
6

conducting in-depth interviews and survey. Primary data from the field research was also
collected from past company records and official documents to conduct a historical review
of the case studies.
1.6 Current Work Practice Preliminary Field Study
In order for the researcher to gain a basic understanding of the current sample
development process to guide the project, a field study (involving 2 short interviews, 1
observation of a meeting with a supplier and 1 casual discussion with a buyer) was
conducted at a private-label retailers production office in Hong Kong. The production
office sources apparel products including swimwear from suppliers in South China, aimed
for sale in Europe to the target group of women around 35 with accompanying husband
and children. The company was selected because of the researchers prior experience
with the company.
The field study involved 2 short interviews, each 30 minutes long at the selected company.
The interview followed a semi-structured interview format with the aim to establish the
current problematic issues in the sample development process.
A summary of the findings of the field study is presented in Table 1.1. The central issue
emerged was that the sample development time demanded many sample rejections of
7

seasonal product categories including swimwear, due to nonconformance with buyers
expectations and requirements. An issue of specifications emerged and was explained to
be due to unclear product sketches and technical specifications provided to the supplier
which affects the sample quality and technical conformance to the specifications. The
concept of reasonable vs. unreasonable sample development time also emerged during
the field study. It is important to note that the company had established quality standards
and quality expectations to determine expected quality of the samples received from the
suppliers.
Company Sample Development Process
1. Common rejection situations of samples during the sample development process
due to technical nonconformance
2. Reasonable vs. Unreasonable length of sample development time
3. Different supplier has different sample development issues
4. Different product types have different expectations and sample development
problems
Table 1-1 Summary of Preliminary Field Study Findings
Following the preliminary field study it was clarified that there are numerous situations
where the sample development time becomes unreasonably long which leads to high cost
and time of development. The investigation of the current work practice provides a
8

platform to initiate this study and clarifies the need for the optimization of the sample
development process in the current apparel industry.
1.7 Definition of Terms
Sample Nonconformance An inconsistency between the physical sample and the
buyers (1), technical specifications and/or (2), design and workmanship expectations.
Sample Rejection A sample nonconformance not accepted by the buyer, resulting in
the demand for a make-up sample from the supplier.
1.8 Structure of the Project Report
This research project is presented in six chapters. Chapter 1, Introduction, justifies the
need for the research and describes the concept, theory and research objectives that
framed the project research. The current work practice was investigated through a field
study and the findings were presented.
Chapter 2, Literature Review, is divided into two main areas: (1), apparel product
development and the sample development process and (2), supplier relationship and its
relationship to product development process effectiveness. Current proposed models of
the apparel product development and sample development processes are presented as
well as theories and concepts of how supplier relationships may affect them.
Chapter 3, Methodology, describes the research approach and methodology selection,
data collection procedures and data analysis procedures.
9

Chapter 4, Data Collection, reports the findings from the research presented as two case
studies. This chapter presented data collected from the multiple data sources used during
the research as an analytical summary.
Chapter 5, Analysis and Discussion, presents the analysis of the findings centered on how
the supplier relationship and technical nonconformance affect the sample development
process in regard of unreasonably long sample development time and process
effectiveness. The chapter is organized according to the Scope of Study 2 and 3 set out
in Section 1.4.
Chapter 6, Summary, Conclusions and Future Research, reports the conclusions from the
research which is organized according to the research objectives stated in Section 1.3 and
provides suggestions for future research.
The Appendices present case study data and detailed documents which were used during
the research. These include interview agenda and the list of survey questions.

10

2 Literature Review
2.1 Introduction
The literature review firstly review the general apparel product development process, the
apparel sample development process and attributes concerning the effectiveness of these
processes. Thereafter, a focus on supplier relationship in regard of sample development
process is laid out by different perspectives of buyer-supplier relationships. The
researcher identified a gap in the literature as the lack of in-depth investigation into the
sample development process of apparel products and lack of understanding of the
relationship between the buyer-supplier relationship and the effectiveness of this process.
2.2 Product Development
2.2.1 Definition
The product development process is described as an inter-departmental process involving
a sequence of interrelated activities under a period of time and is defined as the process
of deriving design and engineering required to make products serviceable, salable,
producible and profitable (Glock and Kunz, 2005).
2.2.2 The Apparel Product Development Process
There are various definitions and models of the apparel product development process and
a summary of the various models is described in Table 2-1.
11

The apparel product development process was defined by Glock and Kunz (2005) to
involve four phases: (1), line concept, (2), pre-adoption product development, (3), line
adoption and (4), post-adoption product development, while it involves two major primary
characteristics: (1), Creative Design and (2), Technical Design. On the other hand,
Kincade (2008) defined the activities involved in the apparel product development process
as divided into four stages: (1), idea development, (2), line development, (3), production
development, (4), sales development. The whole process starts at idea conception and
ends before production.
Stone (1999) described the events in the apparel product development process, applicable
for a typical ready-to-wear consumer product, as a six-stage process, consisting of: (1),
planning the line, (2), creating the design concept, (3), developing the designs, (4), planning
production, (5), production, and (6), distributing the line.
According to Daton (2002), the apparel product development process was divided into four
parts: (1), research phase (collect trend information from various sources e.g. trend services,
shopping from overseas and local markets), (2), line conceptualization (identify fabric,
silhouettes, colors, details and making prototype samples), (3), line visualization and
evaluation (orders ready to be placed by retailer), (4), technical development (continuous
12

sample review to perfect apparel sizing). Final approval is lastly obtained in order to
commence mass production.
Differing from Datons (2002) description, Knox (2002) classified the apparel product
development process into four categories: (1), developing fabrics, (2), developing the body
(pattern development), (3), developing accessories (buttons, threads, zipper, etc), and (4),
developing the wash effect (special texture/wash).
Source Generating
Design Idea
Sketching and
constructing
first garment
Evaluating
feasibility and
planning
production
Implementing
plans and re-
evaluating
where
necessary
Glock and
Kunz (2005)
Line concept Preadoption
product
development
Line adoption Postadoption
product
development
Stone (1999) Planning the
line
Creating the
design concept
Developing the
designs
Planning
production
Production
Distributing the
line
Daton Research phase Line
conceptualization
Line visualization
and evaluation
Technical
development

Knox (2002) Developing
Fabrics
Developing the
body
Developing
accessories
Developing the
wash effect

Table 2-1 - Summary of Different Apparel Product Development Process Models
13

2.2.3 The Apparel Sample Development Process
The apparel sample development process is centralized within the apparel product
development process. During the sample development, samples are produced and
technical specifications are developed for each product. A critical outcome of this process
is to determine the products manufacturability, costing and fit to fulfill the buyers
requirements, specifications and expectations (Kincade, 2008). The investment into
sample development process depends on the companys commitment to quality of design
and consistency of fit.
During the sample development, a sample pattern is constructed in order to produce the
prototype of the specified product. Following the construction of the sample pattern, a
specialized prototype sewing machine operator (otherwise called sample hand)
constructs the sample. This sample is usually not realistically within the manufacturers
mass productions quality capability (Kincade, 2008).
There are many factors during the process that determines its effectiveness such as
communication, clarity of specifications, tolerances, sample follow-up procedures,
language barriers and technical capability of the manufacturer. Suggestions on the crucial
problems attributed to the sample development process, including high cost of sample-
14

making, long development time and lack of understanding of end users desires, were
reported by Ying (1998) and Pitimaneeyakul (2001).
2.2.4 Current Models of the Apparel Sample Development Process
Ying (1998) argued for a more intense sample development process including not only
receiving new style information from buyers, but also to evaluate the feasibility of design in
terms of mass production, fabric development, costing and sample development. The
process before suggested process improvement of evaluating design, sample and
manufacture feasibility is shown in figure 2-1. The suggested improved communication
process is shown in Figure 2-2.

Figure 2-1 Communication of Salesman Sample Development before Suggestion Source: Ying (1998)
15


Figure 2-2 Suggested Communication Process of Salesman Sample Development Source: Ying (1998)
On the other hand, Pitimaneeyakul (2001) identified two different sample development
processes, one involving sample development at an internal sample-making department
(Figure 2-3) and one involving sample development at an overseas manufacturer (Figure
3-4).

16


Figure 2-3 Sample Development in Internal Sample-making Department Source: Pitimaneeyakul
(2001)

Figure 2-4 Sample Development involving Overseas Manufacturer Source: Pitimaneeyakul (2001)
17

Pitimaneeyakul (2001) identified various problems in the sample development process,
including the uncertainty of the customer, which was a stated cause of sample remake as
customer did not really know what they wanted and the manufacturer was forced to
remake samples as the process kept evolving.
The process performance of the sample development process can be assessed by
investigating how well the process is performing to prevent problems rather than fixing
them after they occur. As the sample development process involves making physical
samples, changes made after the design stage or even in the manufacturing stage of the
apparel product development process are often ineffective and costly (Dowlatshahi, 1998).
Although the sample development process needs a systematic procedure to facilitate
effective communication, Pitimaneeyakul (2001) identified that the process also needs
flexibility to allow changes in design and productions as product is developed i.e. allowing
fast and easy sample turn-around.
Knox (2002) identified two crucial parameters of the apparel sample development process:
(1) cost of development and (2), time of development.
18

2.2.5 Cost of Sample Development
Pitimaneeyakul (2001) identified the high cost of sample development when the process
ended up in redeveloping and correct samples more than 8-10 times. According to
Kincade (2008), there are often inconsistencies between prototype and specifications
during new sample development and 2-3 times of rework is usually demanded before
deriving at a sample the designer is satisfied with.
According to Pitimaneeyakul (2001), the sample department of a US knitwear
manufacturer typically redeveloped samples a few times until receiving customer approval,
which consequently increased the cost of the sample development process by each
sample developed and redeveloped. Expenses included in the development of a sample
were fabric ordering, machine set-up, labor costs for development and delivery.
2.2.6 Time of Sample Development
Pitimaneeyakul (2001) identified that a sample development process reaching an approval
for production could take two to three months using a domestic sample department. On
the other hand, it takes approximately 3 weeks to produce the first sample for an overseas
manufacturer and approximately 6-8 to completely develop a sample, including
communicating back and forth between designers and manufacturer.
19

Ying (1998) argued that a provision of expertise opinion on whether the designed style
and selected fabric can achieve the desired appearance, be produced at the targeted cost,
assessed in the light production feasibility, recommended to suitable manufacturing sites
for buyer to meet their budget and assessment on safety issue of trimmings by an apparel
manufacturer, can optimize the sample delivery time.
2.2.7 Communication during the Apparel Sample Development Process
The communication during the sample development process includes the flow of
information (i.e. flow of ideas, comments, sketches and specifications) and the flow of
physical artifacts (i.e. the physical samples). Effective communication facilitates the
product development process to produce right products according to customers inquiries
(Ying, 1998; Pitimaneeyakul, 2001).
Ying (1998) described the communication as the main problem in the product
development process. The communication involves the obtaining and passing of accurate
information to the right person, at the right time, through the right media. The
communication during the sample development stage is recorded in a style file which is a
collection of the communication flow during the sample development process, collecting
all garment details and customers comment for adjustments in the process of making
garments. By recording the information flow along the sample development process, the
20

manufacturer may maintain consistency of products of the same type in the future.
Throughout the sample development, information became more specific and detailed and
when it becomes an order, it is routed to the manufacturing department (Pitimaneeyakul,
2001).
The communication media, or the media used to convey information, determines the
communication flow effectiveness during the sample development procedure. Ying (2008)
explained that the buyer and manufacturer can use Netmeeting and videoconferencing to
facilitate effective communication and as a way to compensate conventional
communication media such as email, fax and utilization of digital photographic images.
Additionally, the procedures of communication determine the communication flow
effectiveness of the sample development process (Ying, 1998). For example, the
centralization of required preparation in product development and sample-making can
increase effectiveness of foreseeing and solving possible problems at an early stage of
the sample development process. In addition to that, procedures need to be established to
systematically record all details in the development stage and facilitate a smooth
production phase of apparel product development while proper and frequent
21

communication between supplier and buyer should be facilitated throughout the whole
product development process (Anonymous, 2008).
2.2.7.1 Communication of Specifications in the Apparel Sample Development
Process
The purpose of the sample development process is for the retailer to certify that the
supplier understands and adheres to the specifications established for a specific product
(Anonymous, 2008). Specifications communicate product descriptions and shows
expected performance of the manufacturer during the sample development process and
correct interpretation of buyer requirements are crucial (Ying, 1998). Pitimaneeyakul (2001)
stated that specifications often provide unclear product details communicated to
manufacturers and constant communication between the designer and the manufacturer
overseas was necessary to complete one sample. The quality of the sample depends on
the clarity of technical specifications provided by the customer, as style defects and flaws
emerged from variations or deviations from the allowed minimums and tolerances of the
technical specifications. An example on the effect on sample-making was reported by
Pitimaneeyakul (2001) as measurements that affect the fit of the garment were sometimes
not exactly according to the customers specifications which resulted in the rejection of
those products and consequently, the sample had to be remade, adding time and cost to
22

the product development process. There is an identified need that the buyer needs to be
more specific in details when making inquiries to the manufacturer. However, even if the
information is filled out correctly, not all the information is read when the specification
sheet is going through the sample-making process (Pitimaneeyakul, 2001).
According to Daton (2002), a product being developed usually does not have an actual
sample or only provide limited information for reference purposes and thus, the apparel
product details and patterns used for constructing the prototype sample became open for
any kind of interpretation which resulted in the delay of the product development schedule
(Daton, 2002, p.55-56).
The sample development process effectiveness depends on the flow of information as it
needs to facilitate communication of correct and understandable information. This
especially applies for the fundamental technical specifications provided by the customer
which specifies product characteristics in style, measurements, materials and colors. An
evaluation of the information can be made by assessing if the information is questionable,
adjustable and achievable (Dowlatshahi, 1998).
As an example, size specifications are included in the technical specifications, and the fit
of the garment has to be approved by buyer in order to monitor the manufacturers
23

conformance to specifications as well as to assess the size specifications
appropriateness. An important issue here is to ascertain that the same Measure Guide is
used by supplier and buyer for accurate and consistent measurements. In addition to size
specifications, a further example of specifications are test specifications, since there is a
need to ascertain the performance of the product through performance testing using in-
house testing facilities and third-party testing laboratories (Pitimaneeyakul, 2001).
Daton (2002) suggested that communication problems emerged from the technical side of
a retailers product development process because many retailers used their own technical
language to communicate with suppliers. Accordingly, there are great variations used in
describing product specifications between different retailers.
According to Dowlatshahi (1998), there should be an appropriate level of specifications
and tolerances incorporated and developed during the production development stage of
product development. These specifications should jointly be developed by design and
manufacturing because of their joint effect on quality targets, production processes and
total product costs. Dowlatshahi (1998) explained that the more a supplier knows about
the exact objectives of the specifications of the buyer, the more the supplier is able to
meet or revise those specifications by adjusting its capabilities.
24

2.3 Buyer and Supplier Relationship and the Apparel Sample
Development Process
2.3.1 Introduction
Parker (2000) identified an increased need to find ways to reduce the risk and cost of
product development, with the sample development process included and a proven way is
through collaboration between two organizations (Haagedoorn, 1993). Rollins (2002)
clarified that there is a need to emphasize less on internal planning and focus on efficient
inter-company interfaces and information exchange.
2.3.2 Definition of Types of Buyer and Supplier Relationships
According to Forrest and Martin (1992) there are two major types of buyer-supplier
relationships, namely: (1), competitive and (2), collaborative, where the first is focused on
cost and price and the latter more focused on delivery times, service and capabilities.
Fynes et al (2004) explained that a traditional competitive relationship may develop and
mature into a collaborative relationship with frequent communication and co-operation on
issues such as product and process design, quality and scheduling.
Differing from the above definition, Mentzer et al (2000) introduced a scale where one end
of the scale is defined as operational partnering and the other end as strategic partnering.
Operational partnering is defined as companies that are seeking partners to improve
operational efficiencies and effectiveness on a short-term basis. The strategic partnering,
25

on the other hand, is defined as companies establishing long-term relationships to achieve
overall strategic objectives and improve ones competitiveness through development of
new products, markets and technologies.
On the other hand, Valasmakis and Groves (1996) categorize buyer and supplier
relationships into three categories, namely: (1), partnership, (2), semi-adversarial and (3),
adversarial. This categorization is based on a number of factors such as retailers
selection criteria for suppliers, level of cooperation on business operations e.g. new
product development, information exchange and risk/benefit sharing.
2.3.3 Impact of Collaborative Efforts between Buyer and Supplier on the Sample
Development Process
In this section of the literature review the researcher aim to evaluate how the manufacturer
and buyer can collaborate in order to improve the product development, more specifically,
the sample development process and weigh the potential benefits against the potential
difficulties of the collaborative efforts.
2.3.3.1 Potential Benefits
Pitimaneeyakul (1998) suggested that building partnership relationships between
manufacturer overseas and buyer can optimize the sample development process.
26

The retailer may increase its likelihood of best possible quality and service if the supplier
has a full understanding of the product development process (Anonymous, 2008). The
retailer may accomplish this by conducting a meeting of technical nature involving all
internal functional personnel included in the process as well as the supplier. During the
meeting, specific development issues (e.g. manufacturing processes and testing) and the
suppliers full understanding of the specifications may be confirmed and discussed.
According to Hunter et al (2002), Total Quality Management (TQM) may serve as a good
example of partnership planning. At the TQM meetings the target of quality standards are
discussed and analyzed, timetables are agreed on and measurement schemes set up.
At the same time collaboration, by involving the supplier in the setting of quality targets for
materials and the product as a whole, will let the supplier have an increased ability to
oversee its production capability and feasibility of that specific product. For example, if the
specific target set by the buyer will not be attainable by the supplier, the supplier may opt
to increase its technical capabilities to facilitate the quality target or withdraw from the
development of that specific product (Dowlatshahi, 1998).
Daton (2002) identified a number of facilitators and barriers which affect the establishment
of partnerships between an apparel retailer and its overseas apparel manufacturers. The
27

facilitators are: (1), loyalty/history (long-term repeat business between parties), (2),
commitment/trust (guarantee of business between partners, (3), management structure
(organizational infrastructure which gives supplier ability to solve problems and make
quick decisions), (4), sharing product knowledge (use of expertise to solve technical
problems and (5), strategic alignment (synchronized long-term planning). The sharing of
product knowledge is a major facilitator for the maintenance of the buyer-supplier
relationship. As an example, Daton (2002) explained that a retailer may obtain technical
expertise and product knowledge from various sweater manufacturers, in order to keep a
flow of product development process through solving construction and technical problems
when developing sweaters. Daton (2002) explained that the technical designers of the
retailer can encourage suppliers to use technical expertise which the retailer would
ultimately not possess to the same extent as the supplier.
Valasmakis and Groves (1996) further investigated into the supplier/buyer relationship in
the UK apparel industry and showed a positive relationship between strong relationships
and performance on reliable delivery and flexibility to meet customer needs. Additionally,
there was a trend that partnerships incline to higher operational efficiencies in product
development as opposed to non-partnerships.
28

Lee (2006) explained that the sample producing process may be a cost-saving and
hedging process to the manufacturer if it runs a mini-assembly line for producing samples.
This way the sample production process may be regarded as a knowledge management
potential platform for future operations for the manufacturer by identifying the most
efficient process to make specific products and consequently avoid potential problems and
document them for future mass production.
Fynes et al (2005) further showed the importance of knowledge management which
activates double loop learning, where one learns about the way one defines and solves
problems. Single loop learning, on the other hand focuses on problem-solving and
correcting errors for example by conforming to a production specification. Therefore,
Fynes et al (2005) argues that good buyer-supplier relationship will allow deeper and more
effective knowledge management by continuously improving operations through double
loop learning. At the same time, suppliers may contribute more expertise and design
development than just fulfilling and conforming to detailed manufacturing specifications by
the engagement in true partnerships (Fynes et al, 2004).
2.3.3.2 Potential Difficulties
The sample development process could potentially be optimized by increasing the extent
of collaboration between buyer and supplier, letting the supplier be more integrated into
29

the buyers activities and vice versa. However, Hunter et al (2002) explained that a true
competitive alliance is a complex relationship requiring much effort, trust and open sharing
of information. Thus, there are numerous barriers for such successful relationships to take
place and there might be alternative, but yet effective measures, to optimize the sample
development process.
Daton (2002) observed that collaborative efforts were limited to basic, steady-demand
goods where the trend in color change would be initiated by the supplier on the retailers
behalf. Daton (2002) further identified three major barriers prohibiting effective buyer-
supplier relationships, which are: (1), communication (language and cultural differences,
(2), fashion (short product life cycle of apparel merchandise and (3), business
environment/trade regulations (economic constraints and legislations).
According to Choo et al (2009), a retailer needs to continuously evaluate suppliers and
products through well-developed evaluation criteria in order to procure resalable products.
Furthermore, the fashion retailers perception of the quality, price and design of the
suppliers products as well as honesty of a supplier, affect both the satisfaction and trust
with that specific supplier. It is also argued that the potential savings in cost and time in a
collaborative relationship may be offset by the investment and costs of keeping the
30

relationship itself (Farr and Fischer, 1992). A firm engaged in a collaborative relationship
will also loose direct control of organization over product development process (Ohmae,
1989).
2.3.4 Early Supplier Involvement in the Apparel Sample Development Process
As the product development process needs flexibility, Pitimaneeyakul (2001) suggested
that sample-making could take part at an earlier stage in the product development process.
By involving the manufacturer early in the process, pre-costing could be conducted at an
early stage to assess if the style is out of the budget range and redevelop the garment
accordingly before it goes through the whole sample development process. Ahmad et al
(2004), explains that earlier and more extensive involvement of supplier during the product
development process will enhance performance regarding productivity, speed and product
quality.
Knox (2002) advocated that Collaborative Product Development will add pressure to
reduce developmental lead-time involving samples, specifications and approvals. The
collaboration is, however, tedious to implement and reaches over three different stages:
(1), preparation phase, (2), piloting phase and (3), scaling phase.
31

One way to actualize the collaborative product development approach would be the
utilization of Electronic Data Interchange (EDI) because of its ability to facilitate global
sourcing in the industry and as a low-cost communication option for Small-and-Medium
Enterprises (SMEs). A further attribute is the shared planning between organizations, as
firms must be prepared to share a degree of strategic and operational planning.
On the other hand, Ragatz et al (1997) identified a number of critical factors for successful
integration of supplier into new product development. The top most important factors were
the top management commitment from both parties and the buyers confidence in the
suppliers capabilities. The barriers which prohibited a successful integration included the
unwillingness to accept suppliers ideas over product design decisions. Hence, the
integration is only valuable if the buyer can willfully accept the suppliers contribution at an
early stage of product design in the product development process.
2.4 Offshore Sourcing
Longer lead times, inflexibility and complexity of procedures add cost to product
development and sourcing activities and are referred to as the costs of inflexibility by
Lowson (2003). These costs are an effect of apparel companies moving production
overseas, and are therefore applicable to Chinas sourcing situation.
32

2.4.1 Hong Kong and Mainland Chinas Situation
The risks incorporated in a collaborative customer-supplier relationship (which are very
much applicable to Chinas situation) was identified by Hamel et al (1989) and are: (1),
leakage of a firms skills, experience and knowledge which may form the basis of
competitiveness and (2), danger that the partner not only acquire the competencies the
firm brings but also gain access to knowledge and skills that the firm uses in other
business areas.
According to a survey conducted by Li & Fung Research center, buyers are advised to
stick to quality suppliers with sound management and up to standard production, enhance
communication with suppliers and keep a close watch on their operating and financial
conditions. Buyers could also leverage on growing strength of their suppliers (as many
China suppliers are upgrading themselves and they are now having stronger product
design and development capabilities) by, for example, involving them in buyers product
design and development processes.
As communication seems to be one of the greatest barriers of buyer-supplier relationships
in China, Anderson and Narus (1990) found a strong positive correlation between the level
of communication between firms and the success of their collaboration. Communication
33

here is defined as: formal and informal sharing of meaningful and timely information
between firms.
2.5 Summary and Conclusion
The literature review is a summary of related past research utilized to gain an
understanding of the apparel sample development process, the impact of buyer and
supplier relationship and grasp Hong Kong and Mainland Chinas situation.
The apparel product development is a complex, inter-functional and collaborative process
involving multiple parties in different geographical regions. The relationships between the
parties involved in the sample development process affect its overall effectiveness and
efficiency. The technical nonconformance factors and supplier relationship factors were
first identified in the current work practice at an apparel company through a field study in
Chapter 1 and further clarified in the literature review. The technical nonconformance
factors of the sample development process with its relationship to the buyer-supplier
relationship factors are not investigated thoroughly in the past literature and therefore
there is a gap in the literature that the researcher aims to fill by the objectives of this
research project.

34

3 Methodology
3.1 Introduction
The purpose of this study is to investigate the sample development process that is
currently adopted in the apparel industry to source seasonal apparel products from South
China for private-label retail in Europe, with the ultimate goal of optimizing this process.
The researcher first examined the literature focusing on product development process, the
sample development process centralized within it and buyer supplier relationship factors
related to the effectiveness of those processes. Reviewing the related literature assisted
the researcher in synthesizing the ideas and designing the research. After the literature
review and research planning were completed, the researcher investigated the sample
development process currently used in two apparel sourcing companies.
This chapter describes the methodology that was used in this research, which includes:
(1), research approach selection, (2), data collection procedures and (3), data analysis
procedures.
3.2 Case Study Research Design
This project follows an exploratory case study methodology. The case study method is
preferred when how or why questions are to be answered, when the researcher has little
control over events and when the focus is on a current phenomenon in a real-life context
35

(Ghauri and Gronhaug, 2005). If prior insight of the research problem is modest, an
exploratory, discovery-oriented research with a focus on understanding and construction
of explanations is appropriate (Ghauri and Gronhaug, 2005). This case study research
followed a theory/data/theory revision cycle which follows four stages: (1) drift, (2), design,
(3) prediction and (4), disconfirmation (Figure 3-1).
Drift Design Prediction Disconfirmation
Widens perspective
of the researcher by
the conducted field
study and literature
review and gives
modifications in
basic research
objectives.
The researcher
develops tentative
explanations (refer to
Section 1.3) of
observations and the
conceptualization of
the research problem
made through in-
depth, semi-structured
interviews.
Developed good
understanding of
factors and
investigates further
case construction
and analysis through
conducted survey
and gives tentative
explanations.
Further testing and
analysis of results
suggested by the
prediction stage and
aim to apply results
to other cases.
Table 3-1 Description of the Case Study theory/data/theory Revision Cycle
With an inductive, exploratory multiple case study, the researcher is the primary
instrument of data collection and attempts to inductively derive meaning with general
explanations from the data by analyzing likeness and differences between two companies
(Hancock and Algozzine, 2006). Through this case study, the researcher gained an in-
depth understanding of the situation under investigation and meaning for those involved.
3.3 Data Collection Procedures
The research method was chosen as the basis for the data collection procedure. This
case study ensures the reliability of the findings by using a triangulation approach for
36

data analysis. Triangulation is a strategy to demonstrate findings based on information
acquired by both qualitative and quantitative data attained from interviews, documents and
survey, which is more convincing than those based on evidence from only one or two of
these information sources (Hancock and Algozzine, 2006). Triangulation leads to a better
understanding or to new questions that can be answered by later research (Ghauri and
Gronhaug, 2005). Through the triangulation approach, different types of data provided a
crosscheck for validity and increase the reliability of the findings.
Both secondary and primary data was collected in this study since when secondary data is
not available or is unable to help solve our research objectives, the researcher must
collect data relevant to our particular study and research problem. Data collection in this
study included multiple sources of evidence as: (1), desk research, (2), preliminary field
study (3), investigation of company past records, (4), investigation of written documents,
(5), interviews and (6) survey.
3.3.1 Secondary Data: Desk research
Secondary data was collected from past literature of journals, research papers, theses
papers and past research. The findings were analyzed and summarized into categories
and the findings are presented in Chapter 2 as the literature review and were utilized as a
37

comparison instrument with which the researcher can easily interpret and understand the
primary data collected.
3.3.2 Primary Data: Field Research
3.3.2.1 Official Documents
As expressed by Rollins (2002), a small or medium-sized company (SME) usually
develops official documents consisting detailed descriptions of the detailed procedures for
a certain process with a specific goal. Documentary information available from the
company in focus included order procedure document and test and manufacturing
guidelines for suppliers. The researcher developed a document recording form to include
important information from each documents in order to simplify the data analysis process.
Documentation analysis may provide information that may not be directly observable or
attainable by interview when interview questions may not be appropriate.
3.3.2.2 Past Company Records
The historical review of the past company records can be used to describe what
happened in the past so that we can understand the present or plan the future (Ghauri
and Gronhaug, 2005). The secondary data presented in existing records including past
sample lead times, past sample comments and past product sketches, were analyzed to
38

get as true a picture as possible of the situation under investigation. The records and
comments were reviewed using a developed historical record recording form.
3.3.2.3 Interviews
Interview data collection was the first primary source of evidence for this project. The
interviews allowed the participants in the study to express their thoughts in their own
words and allowed the researcher to attain rich, personalized information that address the
fundamental research objectives (Hancock and Algozzine, 2006).
The researcher initiated an interview with each of the key personnel in charge of sample
development activities and sample approval at the two chosen companies. The interview
timeframe was approximately one hour. The interview questions were developed from the
research objectives, field study experience and the literature review. The interview
followed a semi-structured interview format with predetermined but flexibly worded, open-
ended questions. Additionally, the researcher asked follow-up questions designed to
probe more deeply issues of interest to interviewees during a semi-structured interview.
Semi-structured interviews invite interviewees to express themselves openly and freely, to
define the situation from their own perspectives and not solely from the perspective of the
researcher (Hancock and Algozzine, 2006). All interviews were scheduled with the
permission of the manager and the interviewee. The researcher interviewed all
39

interviewees at the company sites of the two chosen companies. All the interviews were
recorded by handwritten notes as a sufficient mean of recording the interview data
(Hancock and Algozzine, 2006). The full interview agenda followed in each interview is
presented in Appendix C.
3.3.2.3.1 Description of Interview Stages
The interview was divided into six independent stages, each with unique goals throughout
the interview. The interview stages are described below.
Stage 1: Responsibilities
Goal: This section aimed to understand the interviewees role in the company and in the
product development process, establish ground for the future questions and establish
mutual trust between interviewee and interviewer.
Stage 2: Communication Flow and Company Order Process
Goal: This section aimed to understand current practice of the sample development
process and the communication flow of information and physical artifacts throughout the
process.
Stage 3: Nonconformance in the Sample Development Process
Goal: This section aimed to investigate nonconformance factors during the sample
development process and to identify problematic stages. This allows many technical
factors in the sampling process to be exposed to the interviewer in a summarized way
which will enable the interviewer to evaluate the effectiveness of the sample development
process in terms of nonconformance.
40

Stage 4 Unreasonable Sample Development Time and the Sample Development
Process
Goal: This section aimed to identify the concept of unreasonable sample development
time from the interviewees and the companies perspective to assist in identifying
problematic stages in the sample development process and its relationship to
nonconformance.
Stage 5 Supplier Relationship Factors and the Sample Development Process
Goal: This section aimed to evaluate how supplier relationship factors, including
communication and collaborative efforts, and their relationship to the concept of
unreasonable sample development time in the sample development process.
Stage 6 Future Improvements and Additional Comments
Goal: This section aimed to let the interviewee answer a set of relatively open questions
so that the interviewee can provide an insiders view of the supplier relationship, its
relationship to unreasonable sample development time and limitations of the current
sample development process. Additionally, this section acted as a fade-out phase of the
interview.
3.3.2.3.2 Pilot Test
A pilot test was conducted prior the actual interview with the aim of verifying if the
interview questions were well-founded or not and to observe the reactions of the
interviewees to the questions asked. In order to achieve this purpose, four employees at
Company A, not planned to participate in the actual interview, were invited to participate in
41

the test to check if there are any difficulties in understanding the questions, if any phrasing
is ambiguous, if interview is too long or if questions are sensitive so that interviewee would
believe the questions violate the companys confidentiality. The observed comments and
suggestions were utilized to amend the interview agenda for the actual research interview.
3.3.2.3.3 List of Target Interviewees
There were a total of 7 interviews conducted in this project. All interviewees were picked
due to their positions relevance with the sample development process, except for the
production manager who was indirectly responsible but had a holistic point of view of the
process. The interview list is presented in Table 3.2.
Interviews Company Title
4 A - Private-label apparel
sourcing
Production
Manager
Merchandiser
Merchandiser
Assistant
Merchandiser
Assistant
Merchandiser
3 B - Independent apparel
sourcing
Team Manager
Team Manager
Product and
Development
7 Total number of interviews
Table 3-2 Interviewee List
The data collected from the interviews present the interviewees attitudes toward the
sample development process and the buyer supplier relationship factors specified during
42

the interviewee. However, there are some limitations in using the interview technique.
Interviews are firstly difficult to interpret and analyze, while the researchers own
background may greatly influence the interpretations and therefore causing problems of
objectivity (Ghauri and Gronhaug, 2005). Thus, survey was employed to minimize the
weaknesses of other data collection techniques used in this project.
3.3.2.4 Survey
The survey used in this study followed a quantitative model by using mainly close-ended
questions. The types of close-ended questions used were: (1) multiple choice questions
and (2) scaled questions. The survey was conceptualized from the interview data of
Company A and B of identified problematic stages and was employed as a further mean
of analysis of results suggested during the design stage of the research (Refer to Table 3-
1). The survey aimed to gain information from the suppliers point of view and was
communicated to three suppliers at each of the companies to validate evidence found in
the previous data collection methods by enforcing conclusions through the strength of the
quantitative measurements found after conducting the survey. The survey was
constructed electronically and sent as a link from the supplier merchandisers to three
suppliers of the company. The full survey conducted in this study is presented in
Appendix D.
43

The result from the survey is illustrated in Chapter 4 as integrated with the interview data
to strengthen its validity. The results are presented as an average of all respondents
answering questions on a scale of 5 to 1 where the definitions of each number are the
following (corresponding Chinese translation included):
5 4 3 2 1
Have
comprehensive
and clear effect

Have certain
distinct effect

Have some
indistinct effect

Have very little
effect

Have no effect

Table 3-3 Scaling of Survey Questions
However, a limitation of this study was the low response rate of the actual survey, allowing
data only from Company A, the company in focus, to be considered valid to support
conclusions in the triangulate data analysis procedure. The response rate of the survey
had a total of 14 respondents from three different suppliers.
The low survey response rate of Company B proved to be below sufficient level for
representative data and could be due to the limited amount of respondents applicable and
the lack of control of the researcher on the response rate. Thus, the survey data will not
be used to strengthen the case study findings of Company B presented in Chapter 4.
3.3.2.4.1 Pilot Test
A pilot test was conducted prior conducting the actual survey with the aim of verifying if
the survey questions are well-founded or not. In order to achieve this purpose, the same
four employees at Company A whom participated in the pilot test of the interview were
invited to participate in the test to check if there are any difficulties in understanding the
questions, if any phrasing is ambiguous, if survey is too long or if questions are sensitive
44

so that interviewee would believe the questions violate the companys confidentiality. The
observed comments and suggestions were utilized to amend the survey to be conducted
in the actual research.
3.4 Selection of Case Participants and Research Timeframe
The preliminary field study was initiated in September 2009 when one private-label
apparel sourcing company in Hong Kong was selected as the possible research site. The
findings of the field study are presented in Section 1.7. Following the field study, the
company was chosen as the company to analyze in the actual study. The researcher
decided to focus the investigation on one specific product group, namely swimwear, so
that the collected data is focused and representative. The choice of the second company
to be analyzed in the actual study was based on a differentiation strategy, as the
researcher aimed to broaden the potential base of application of the research. The second
company differentiates from the first selected company in that it is an apparel sourcing
company working independently with buyers and not through private-label internal
company buyers as in the first company. The researcher decided not to focus on a
specific product group at the second company investigation in order to provide a general
base for comparison and increased the application scope of the research.
45

The entire research was conducted during an 8-month timeframe. The total data collection
period was approximately 4 months. Data collection began in November 2009 with
interviews at Company A, and a written document search and historical review was
initiated in December 2009. The interviews of the second company took place in January
2010 and the survey was conducted at both companies in February 2010.
3.5 Data Analysis Procedures
During the case study research of this project, the researcher was involved in ongoing
examination and interpretation of the data collected from multiple sources to reach
tentative conclusions and to refine the research objectives. The purpose of the data
analysis procedure was to organize information into manageable themes with the intention
of seeing relationships among different factors to finally produce the findings.
3.5.1 Historical Records Data Analysis
The researcher started the data analysis by reading through all documents and historical
records collected. The historical records were classified into the categories of (1) past lead
times and (2) past sample comments. Past lead times covered data collected as a
summary of past sample lead times for seasonal orders. Past sample comments covered
communication between the supplier, buyer and the company which included emails,
sample reports, sample comments and corresponding photographs used in the
46

communication process. The analysis in this category was used to understand actual
communication procedures adopted during the sample development process in the
company and to evaluate its effectiveness.
3.5.2 Documentation Data Analysis
The written documents were classified into the categories of (1) order procedures and (2)
supplier guidelines of order procedures. Order procedures covered official documented
order process procedures in the chosen company in focus. Supplier guidelines covered
information sent to communicate the sample development procedure and technical
requirements with the supplier. The information was investigated based on the data
collected in documentation record forms. The analysis in this category was used to
understand the sample development process procedure and what quality expectations are
communicated to the suppliers.
3.5.3 Interview Data Analysis
The data collected from the interviews were grouped according to the response of the
interviewee to each question to compare differences of the interviewees perspectives.
The interviewees responses from the two companies were grouped separately to show
differences in responses from the two companies.
47

3.5.3.1 Theme forming
The interview data was then categorized into themes. A theme is a cluster of linked
categories conveying similar meanings and forming a unit (Holloway, 1997). The theme
forming was based on categorization of critical issues that evolved during the process of
analysis and the personal experience from the pilot study. The analysis in this category
was used to understand the current sample development process in the company,
evaluate its effectiveness, construct a model with identified critical issues of technical
nonconformance factors and supplier relationship factors and to propose
recommendations on how to optimize the process.
After the data analysis, a model was created to show the relationship between the critical
issues identified and the problems identified in the sample development process. The
model identifies the critical issues so that the researcher may understand on how to
optimize the sample development process.
3.5.4 Survey Data Analysis
The survey results were analyzed in light of the previous emerging findings from the
historical records, documentation and interview analysis in order to validate the data
through the quantitative statement results of the survey.
48

3.6 Case Study Report
The results from the data collection for this project are written as a multiple case study
report presented in Chapter 4. The goal of this project is to present the sample
development process currently used in the companies, to evaluate this process and to
identify critical issues in the process so as to propose solutions on how to improve the
effectiveness and optimize the sample development process. The findings from this study
are beneficial as an exploratory device for future apparel sample and product
development research.
3.7 Summary
This chapter presented the methodology used in this project. The methodology includes
research approach and methods selected, data collection procedures and data analysis
procedures. The research approach chosen is an exploratory multiple case study
approach including a field study and case study. The data collection procedure includes
multiple data sources used in the data collection process. Data analysis and procedures
include documentation data analysis, historical records data analysis, interview data
analysis and survey data analysis. The analytical summary of the case study findings is
presented in Chapter 4.
49

4 Case Study Findings
4.1 Introduction
The findings reported here are from two case studies conducted at the two chosen
companies under analysis, which focused on the current sample development process.
The results are based on analysis and synthesis of the data collected through examination
of documents, historical company records, conducted interviews and survey. Due to the
time and experience restraints of the researcher there was a focus on Company A which
contributed with historical review, past company records, official documents, interviews
and a survey, while Company B contributed only with interviews and survey. The
processes from two different companies allowed the researcher to increase the application
strength of the research onto a broader aspect of the apparel industry. The findings
presented in this chapter include the historical review of the company in focus and the
current sample development process followed in both the companies. The representation
of the sample development process was made through the different stages of interview
questions with support from the conducted survey. From the findings, critical factors were
identified and presented in themes and recommendations were developed for an
improved sample development process. The critical factors and recommendations to
improve the sample development process are presented in Chapter 5.

4.2 Company A
The findings reported here are organized into four parts. The first and second parts are
the background and historical review of the company. The third part is the sample
development process used in the company, which is the major focus of this research.
50

4.2.1 Company Background
This company is an apparel retailer with roots in Sweden while it has expanded its retail
markets to Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Finland, Poland and Czech Republic. The
company has a centralized buying office in Gothenburg, Sweden and production offices to
source the production of all its private-label apparel products in Bangladesh, Mainland
China and Hong Kong, China. The production office works as a liaison between the
buying office in Sweden and the overseas manufacturers in the respective locations. The
production office investigated in this project is located in Hong Kong and has sourced its
apparel products from manufacturers in South China since the 1980s.
4.2.2 Historical Review
The information on the history of the company was collected by studying past order
records and past sample comments. Please refer to Appendix A for a detailed summary of
the data from the historical review.
4.2.2.1 Past Order Records
The past order records placed to two different suppliers during one season were collected
to show the magnitude of samples needed during the sample development process. The
orders were placed to manufacturers with Hand-Over-Dates ranging from January 2010
until April 2010. All the orders were of the same product category i.e. swimwear. The
company has been working with Supplier X for 2 years with 2 seasons of swimwear per
year and 2 years with Supplier Y with 1 season of swimwear. A summary of the findings
are presented in table 4-1.

51


Supplier X Supplier Y
Number of Orders
27 14
Average Size of Orders in Pieces
2290 4264
Percentage of Orders Demanding 3 or more Style Samples
15% 43%
Average Lead Time for Style Samples in Days
19 18
Average Lead Time for Counter Samples in Days
94 44
Table 4-1 Past Order Records Data Summary
The manager answered in the conducted interview that the average number of samples
needed to reach final approval is at least 2 style samples and 1 counter sample, however,
the ideal situation is 1 style sample and 1 counter sample. The manager also answered
that a third style sample should not happen, then the supplier or we have done something
wrong. The data shows that 43% and 15% of the orders demand three or more style
samples for Supplier Y and X, respectively. The merchandisers explained that a
complicated style need 3-4 style samples of which some are rejected at the Hong Kong
office and is not needed to be sent to Sweden. For supplier Y, the merchandisers
answered that sometimes they need over 4 style samples if it is a new or complicated
style of which 2-3 samples are rejected locally in Hong Kong. The merchandiser
emphasized that for swimwear and seasonal products it is quite serious to follow order
as it is a seasonal styling and therefore cannot afford to make any mistakes which can
seriously affect selling time, and buyer will not accept delay.
4.2.2.2 Past Sample Comments
The past sample comments recorded in the style file of three placed orders provided data
to analyze the actual communication flow during the sample development process. The
52

three orders were all orders for swimwear products. The data from the past sample
comments is summarized into two main points: (1), Technical Issues and (2), Procedural
Issues.
4.2.2.2.1 Technical Issues
The suppliers sometimes do not study the technical design sketch provided by the buyer
comprehensively. If the sketch is unclear, the supplier may provide its own interpretations
on design according to the sketches and specifications provided by the company.
Secondly, there were high numbers of both new and consistent technical issues which
resulted in sample rejection. Thirdly, there were numerous rejections due to measurement
inconsistency and there were cases where the stated measurements of the supplier did
not conform to the stated measurements by buyer. The buyer, however, provide
suggestions on exactly how to adjust the paper pattern when there is a fitting issue. Lastly,
there are numerous major technical issues highlighted at an earlier stage of sample
development and minor technical issues are left for consideration at a later stage,
resulting in a longer period to amend the technical issues.
4.2.2.2.2 Procedural Issues
The sample comments come from many employees on the buyers side to one employee
on the suppliers side, for example superfluous comments from buyers two technicians
which sometimes even contradicted each other. At many times the sample comments are
not digested by the supplier and the buyer even referred to previous samples of the same
style for correction.
53

4.2.2.3 Official Documents
Two official documents developed by the company were investigated in relation to the
sample development process. The first was the official sample development
communication procedures developed by the company. The second was the official
manufacturing guide communicated to each supplier stating technical and chemical
requirements, specifications and expectations.
4.2.2.3.1 Official Sample Development Procedures
The document does not specify how sample comments should be structured and what
language to be used, as this was a presented problem in the analysis of the past sample
comments. Furthermore, there is no assessment on the understanding of sample
comments prior of communicating them to the suppliers.
4.2.2.3.2 Official Manufacturing Guide
There is currently no procedure on how to alert specific requirements and expectations of
specific styles, thus only a standard requirement is communicated and no further
procedures on how to handle case by case style orders. Furthermore, there is no
procedure on how to check suppliers comprehension and true digestion of the
expectations of the buyer.
Due to the high number of requirements specified in the document, the actual
implementation and enforcement of the requirement cannot be assured until applicable
styles are produced. The points communicated to the manufacturer are only requirements
54

for them to comply with and does not specify a particular procedure for communication
and product development.
4.2.3 Sample Development Process: A compilation of the Interview and Survey
Data
This section is divided into six parts, according to the Interview stages elaborated in
Section 3.4.2.3.1 and is joined with survey data, summarized as a quantitative average
answer to the questions on the survey to show significance of suppliers considerations.
Please refer to Appendix E for the complete data from the survey.
4.2.3.1 Part 1 Responsibilities
The responsibility of the assistant merchandisers is mainly to facilitate communication
between the buyer and supplier. The interviewees explained that their role was to make
process smooth and to follow-up on order and samples. The sample approval is a core
responsibility and another major responsibility is to make sample follow-up with technician
and Quality Control department. General responsibilities were to check email from buyer
in Sweden and to forward them to supplier, print order sheets, filing and organization of
paper-work and to print out sample comments. The responsibilities of the merchandisers
were mainly to provide price quotations and to solve problems in production.
The manager had a broader responsibility of coordinating and planning the success of the
order process and, as expressed by the interviewee, to manage staff, problem-solving,
sourcing, planning, forecasting and reporting to Managing Director.
55

4.2.3.2 Part 2 Company Sample Development Process and Communication Flow
The sample approval process commence after the buyers decision of which supplier to
place the order to, following best price quotations from suppliers based on price and
capacity. Then company asks the style sample from supplier. The buyer may sometimes
request for a development sample before requesting a style sample, which is approved by
the buyer in Sweden. The supplier sends a style sample which is assessed for approval.
The style samples are approved by technician in Sweden including final approvals of
quality and pattern issues. However, the style sample is pre-checked by technician in
Hong Kong.
Simultaneous with style sample approvals there are approvals of lab dip, strike-off, fabric
quality, trimming and external lab test for the counter sample. Strike-offs, trimmings, fabric
quality and marginal lab test results are approved by assistant buyer in Sweden. Lab dips
and lab test are approved by the merchandiser in Hong Kong.
If the style sample is approved, the counter sample is sent to company and everything on
counter sample is supposed to be the same as the bulk production. The counter sample
without fit problem or a bikini/underwear bottom is assessed and approved by assistant
merchandiser in Hong Kong and measurements are checked by technician in Hong Kong.
If the counter sample has fit problem or is a bikini/underwear top, it is approved by
56

Sweden. If approved, the bulk production is commenced and a reference sample is kept in
Quality Control department.
The whole product development process is summarized in Figure 4.1., where the sample
development process is highlighted. Please refer to Figure 4.2 for a summary of the
parties involved in the sample development process.

Figure 4-1 Company A Order Process
During the process the merchandisers are involved to solve problems along the way while
meeting with merchandiser team leader and manager to evaluate performance for buyers
and supplier. However, the manager has little participation in the day-to-day order process
Buyer place inquiry
to merchandiser incl
sketch, meas. list,
quality, qty, Hand-
Oover-Date
Supplier quote best
price to buyer
Buyer decides which
supplier to place
order based on price
and capacity
Style sample
assessment and
approval
Lab dip, strike-off,
fabric quality,
trimming and lab
test assessment and
approval
Counter sample
assessment and
approval
Bulk Production
(Keep Reference
Sample)
Production sample
and lab test
In-line inspection
assessment and
approval
Final Inspection
assessment and
approval
Arrange Shipment
Order Shipped and
completed
57

and participates only when a major problem has occurred, for example a production
problem or delivery time problem. Examples are: a major congestion at one supplier, the
product does not turn out as they want or communication breakdown between
merchandiser and buyer.

Figure 4-2 Involved Parties in Company A Sample Development Process
Accordingly, the suppliers answered in the survey, at an average answer of 4.3, that
production congestion is a major factor affecting the suppliers ability to produce a sample
on time. The suppliers also indicated, at an average answer of 3.8, that product not being
according to buyers specification (i.e. the product does not turn out as they want) is a
further factor.
The production lead time is generally 2 months. The supplier can then have enough time
to produce the style sample two weeks after the order has been placed and the mass
Company Buying
Office in Sweden
Company Sourcing
Office in Hong Kong
Supplier in
Mainland China
58

production generally commence 1 month after order has been placed. 1 month is
generally considered enough time to produce bulk and ship complete order.
The orders for seasonal products, such as swimwear, are placed in one go when the
buyer comes to the company office in September. Delivery dates of those orders range
from December until April and thus some orders have very long lead times. Usually the
lead times are short when the order is placed using the same fabric and the same supplier
and the orders are placed as a package at a better negotiated price. For seasonal
products, there is extra control since even a short period of 2 weeks may affect sales. The
shortest lead time is 3 months for solid color orders, but the lead time is usually longer.
4.2.3.3 Part 3 Nonconformance in the Sample Development Process
For lab dips, metamerism i.e. the concern of the color being visually different in shop light
and daylight, is a major technical nonconformance. The merchandiser can make the
decision on which light is more important. Another problem is the mismatch between print
and fabric color (strike-off and lab dip). Supplier also showed concern for this problem, as
the highest scoring issues of the survey in regard to lab dips were: (1), color not according
to available specification (4.0) and (2), mismatch between fabric color and print color (4.1).
When assessing the first style sample, the available fabric quality, fitting and
measurements are assessed. The fabric quality is assessed by fabric weight and correct
composition as specified, but for swimwear it is usually enough to assess by hand feel and
59

compare it to past experience if it is too heavy or too thin. The fitting is assessed by fitting
on a dummy. The measurements are assessed in relation to a measurement list provided
by the buyer. Any revised style or counter sample is assessed based on buyer requests
and comments of the previous samples.
The nonconformance in the first style sample is normally fitting, workmanship and
measurement related. The first style sample is made according to the sketch provided by
the company and the supplier may not be very familiar on how to make that sample. The
workmanship related ones are mostly incorrect construction. Measurement related ones
were expressed as just careless mistakes because the measurement list has been
provided to the supplier. Supplier also showed concern for this problem as the highest
scoring issues of the survey in regard to first style sample were: (1), lack of past
experience on making previous similar sample (3.6), (2), unclear sketches provided by the
buyer (3.9) (with specifically workmanship (3.7) as the main reason for it being unclear)
and (3), clearness of measurement list (4.0). The merchandisers stated that if there is a
severe fitting problem, the buyer in Sweden may change the measurements or style.
During the interview some concerns were raised including that a reason for rejection may
be carelessness (for example, the supplier did not pre-check the samples before sending
them). Sometimes the company provide comments and the supplier merchandiser may
not translate the comment to the sample room clearly and consequently the revised style
sample keep same technical nonconformance as in the first. Thus, the sample room will
not get sufficient details and make the wrong sample (for example if the style had been
changed from a v-neck to a round-neck but the information never reached the sample
room). Similarly, the supplier also showed concern as high scoring issues were: (1), miss
60

pre-checking of sample at factory (3.7), (2), failed communication between factory
merchandiser and factory sample room (4.0), (3), unclear comment by buyer (4.1) and (4),
unclear communication (4.0).
The technical nonconformance in revised style samples are mainly due to that supplier
did not follow last style sample comment, as expressed by one of the interviewees.
Some mistakes may also be new and not found in the first style sample and the reason
could be unclear communication. The supplier showed similar concern for the comments
as these factors were ranked high: (1), vagueness of buyers comments (4.0) and (2),
comments not clear enough (3.9). According to the supplier survey, the suppliers
answered, on an average answer of 3.8, that the difficulty to follow comments from
previous samples is one of the reasons for the supplier to send a revised style sample
with nonconformance with buyers specifications. The main concerns from the supplier to
minimize sample lead time were also: (1), receive clear sample comments from buyer (4.2)
and (2), receive punctual (not late) sample comments from buyer (4.3).
It was clarified that color and fabric quality are major problems leading to a request for a
third style sample, however, concerns remain that the supplier does not follow companys
measurement or pattern and supplier may still not follow first and second style sample
comments. The manager explained that a third style sample should not be needed and
if it happened the supplier is bad at following comments or comments are not clear
enough.
When assessing the counter sample, color in comparison to approved lab dip and style
sample previously approved is taken into consideration. Overall similarity to previously
approved samples including trimmings, labeling, packing and fabric quality is also
61

considered. Any deviation must be decided to be acceptable or not acceptable and the
decision is made on the basis of experience, according to one of the assistant
merchandisers, who also clarified that some finishing or processes cannot be made in the
sample stage and therefore the supplier cannot make the sample and bulk exactly the
same. However, from the suppliers viewpoint this proved to be relatively insignificant with
an average answer of 3.1, indicating a contradiction.
The nonconformance in counter samples is usually color deviations, printing problem,
measurements, fabric quality and child safety related. As expressed by the suppliers, the
main technical problems in counter samples are dissimilarity from previous samples and
measurement problems. There is seldom need for a revised counter sample but if needed,
problems may include print, color, fabric quality, print and trimming problems. The supplier
may still not follow last counter sample comments.
Many counter sample problems are expected to be corrected in mass production and the
company trusts the supplier to improve these issues. The company cannot check the
problem again until the Quality Control in-line inspection, when a production sample is
taken from the production line. The manager stated that this production sample may still
include measurement and bad making issues. This presents one of the major concerns
of the manager, the rushing of samples into production with still many technical
nonconformances. The supplier agrees and says that one of the major factors affecting
the factorys ability to supply the order on time is extra time needed to correct mistakes of
counter sample in mass production (4.4). Another major concern raised by the supplier
62

was also the inability to correct mistakes from previous sample (3.9) with specifically
workmanship (4.0) and measurement (4.0) issues.
The most common nonconformance resulting in rejection of samples are workmanship,
color, fitting and quality problems.
4.2.3.4 Part 4 Unreasonable sample development time and the Sample
Development Process (Please refer to Section 1.3 for the term and process
definitions)
A sample taking more than 3 weeks to be delivered is very unreasonable, according to
one of the interviewees. A style sample taking 2 weeks to be delivered is already
unreasonable, according to another interviewee. By sending the sample late, the supplier
misses to follow-up on order. Longer sample lead time will defer production schedule and
when the production schedule defer, the delivery date needs to be postponed. 1 week
goes between each style sample and if even a third style sample is requested there has
already been a process lasting 3 weeks which, for an urgent order, will cause delay since
each style sample reject causes delay for approximately 1 week. All the interviewees
indicated that unreasonable sample development time is one of the reasons for an order
to be delayed. The buyer generally accept 1-2 weeks order delay, but this does not apply
for swimwear and seasonal goods.
Color change, print, quality and fitting problems may result in, as expressed by one of the
merchandisers, too many rejects by buyer and will result in inadequate buffer time to
solve problems during the sample development process for production. If the supplier
63

submit the style sample too late (for example 3 weeks after placed order instead of 2 or, in
some cases, 6 weeks after) the result can be inadequate time to solve problems during
the sample development process. Excuses such as sample room is too busy are usually
mentioned by the suppliers and the merchandiser expressed that they cannot possibly
know the actual reason behind and explains that one of the reasons may be the priority of
the supplier towards another buyer. According to the interviewees, a major reason of
unreasonable sample development time can be the overcapacity of the suppliers sample
room. If the sample room is small with not enough space and delivery dates are tight, the
supplier may arrange for the sample production later. Sometimes the company needs to
check to chase sample status to remind them due to poor time management of the
supplier merchandiser, according to one of the merchandisers. Accordingly, the survey of
the suppliers indicated an average response of 3.9 of sample room overcapacity as a
factor causing the supplier not being able to send a style sample on time required by
buyer.
At the same time, the supplier will be waiting for sample yardage of fabric to produce a
style sample. The supplier may also give excuses such as internal rejection of the style
sample which the company merchandiser lacks to believe and might ask the Quality
Control department to make them a visit to check. According to the supplier survey,
64

internal sample room rejection of sample was a minor problem at average answer of 3.3,
showing a contradiction.
By not approving the style sample, the supplier cannot cut fabric, estimate fabric
consumption and order the fabric. The supplier agrees, as high scoring factors to obstruct
a decrease in sample lead time were: (1), requirement to approve style sample before
receiving full size range measurement list (4.0) and (2), requirement to approve style
sample before fabric is cut and fabric consumption estimated (3.8). After the style sample
has been approved, the full measurement for the full size range is also created. However,
according to the manager, the unreasonable sample development time may not delay
order as it depends on collaboration between merchandiser, buyer and supplier. On the
other hand, for counter sample, the materials such as fabric, trims and print may not be
ready, causing long counter sample development time. From the suppliers point of view,
unclear comment by buyer (3.9), late comment by buyer (4.1) and availability of bulk
fabric and trims (4.0) were the top ranking factors causing the supplier to send counter
sample not on time required by buyer.
The manager simply said that unreasonable sample development time is due to bad
follow-up from both sides, bad or unclear comments and bad control of fabric and trims.
The supplier agrees and stated that: (1), vagueness of buyer sample procedures (3.8), (2)
vague procedures of follow-up (4.0) affects the suppliers ability to send a sample on time,
while standardization of follow-up requirements (4.2) was considered a factor to
minimize the sample lead time. The manager also suggested that with planning, the
supplier can prevent unreasonable sample lead time. Additionally, when asked What is
this buyer's time requirement to send the first style sample?, the suppliers employees
answered with a range from one week to one month, indicating a broad range of answers
65

and a lack of understanding of the companys real expectations on sample follow-up
procedures.
The merchandisers stated that the supplier always misunderstands the comments given
by the company and sometimes the information is unclear. According to the manager, all
comments must be crystal clear and the company needs to make sure the supplier
understands comments and is capable of following comments. The company should make
sure that all placed orders are production friendly as to check that the supplier has the
capacity to produce the workmanship requested according to suppliers capability and
machine expertise.
4.2.3.5 Part 5 Supplier Relationship Factors and the Sample Development Process
This part has been divided into two sections: (1), Communication and Information-Sharing
and (2), Collaborative Efforts.
4.2.3.5.1 Communication and Information-Sharing
Information shared with the supplier includes all order information (order sheet, care
instructions, specifications, measurement list with standardized measurement techniques
and detailed sketch), sample comments, paper pattern, complaints, brief capacity planning,
company routine, manufacturing guide, company information, company policy, code of
conduct, lab test instruction, material list, color standards and exactly how the company
want order follow-ups to be conducted (what the company expects from the supplier with
exact no. of dates when to have style sample and how long time until counter sample).
This information is shared through email, phone, courier and face-to-face meetings at
66

company office or suppliers factory. The company tries to maintain open communication
with the supplier and, for example, try to solve fitting issues together. If the supplier does
not have a way of making up to standard, the company can give suggestions and show
how to change. According to the interviewees, sharing of capacity planning and
standardization is crucial and can optimize sample lead times.
Information which is not shared with suppliers are price quotations, price negotiations,
weekly sales records, list of suppliers (although most suppliers already know), trend
development information, marketing research and any information from or about other
suppliers. Trend development is difficult to share due to company policy of privacy and the
manager said that: our current suppliers are not mature enough to fully understand
fashion trends. Sometimes the supplier will hide information such as technical assets (for
example paper patterns) as they are afraid the company will share it with other suppliers.
The supplier may also not be willing to share sample approval/rejection comments with
another supplier because of the technical information leaked out to that supplier. Less
communication leads to longer lead times and less to know about each other, the more
difficult to cooperate, according to the manager.
4.2.3.5.2 Collaborative Efforts
The interviewees all considered their relationship with its suppliers to be competitive,
price-negotiation relationships. The manager stated that if the supplier is ascertain of
companys quality expectation, a long term relationship will have higher quality in
comparison to short term where there is a focus on quick buck.
Due to different objectives and different point of views of supplier and the company, a
clear understanding of expectations is not communicated effectively. From the suppliers
67

point of view they think more how to protect them but the company will concern more on
buyer thinking, according to one of the interviewees.
The interviewees expressed that it is better to make samples earlier in order to be aware
of problems earlier. If the company knows the suppliers problem with sample status
earlier, the company can help to work out problem in order to minimize problems in later
stages. Additionally, if buffer time for sample development is used for market research and
trend development instead of spending it on sample development and a standardized joint
product development procedure has been established, the order can be placed closer to
Hand-Over-Date with certainty of product characteristics.
There is currently no standardized procedure for all suppliers to follow and the
merchandisers mentioned that there should be a system for all suppliers to follow
regarding sample development and this will create benefits for the company and the
suppliers. The test and manufacturing guide involving procedures communicated to
suppliers are only a requirement and does not control procedure, according to the
interviewees. A mutual standardized procedure for all suppliers would result in better
control, as expressed by one of the interviewees, because now supplier is not willing to
tell the truth and hides the truth for its own protection. The manager agreed and stated: if
there is a standard sampling process there will be less loss of time because supplier
knows how to execute order, easier for people to fill in and easy for any to take over and
furthermore, it would be easy to measure, set targets and to improve.
4.2.3.6 Part 6 Future Improvements and Additional Comments
The manager expressed that one needs to find a supplier that match the companys
goals and target and there are more pre-requisites for a collaborative relationship
68

including matching suppliers goals to companys goals of supplier base with concerns of:
size, quality, price, competence and specific kind of product.
Difficulties to establish a collaborative relationship with the companys suppliers are: open
communication between company and supplier, supplier cannot maintain quality or
compliance requirements and communication breakdown. The willingness shown by
suppliers in the survey to build a collaborative relationship were shown by these factors:
(1), willingness of cooperation with the purpose of decreasing sample lead time (4.0) and
(2) willingness of cooperation with the purpose of decreasing overall order lead time (4.2).
The interviewees expressed that there is a risk to prioritize one supplier by, for example,
placing more orders with on supplier. The company has a diversified supplier base
according to the specific products it wants to manufacture which is too large to prioritize
supplier, said one of the merchandisers.
According to the manager, the order process has failed from an optimal point of view.
Additionally, we could be much better with order to reduce no. of samples by
standardizing more and make sure everyone follows the rules. Suppliers view on sample
development time and the ineffectiveness of the sample development process is shown by
these high resulting factors: (1), unreasonably long sampling approval process (4.8) and
(2), unreasonable amount of sample rejections in the sampling process (4.6), both which
expressed affect on factorys ability to supply an order on time.
4.3 Company B
The findings reported here are organized into two parts. The first part is the brief
background of the company. The second part is the sample development process used in
the company, which is the major focus of this research.
69

4.3.1 Company Background
This company is an exporting house in Hong Kong which liaisons with buyers in Europe,
especially in France and the UK, and manufacturers in South China. It has been sourcing
apparel products since 2001.
4.3.2 Sample Development Process: A compilation of the Interview and Survey
Data
4.3.2.1 Part 1 Responsibilities
The interviewees work with both sides of buyer and factory and the buyers are
independent, multiple and different. Thus, they need to follow each buyers sample and
product development processes while conducting the business.
4.3.2.2 Part 2 Communication Flow and Company Order Process
First, the technical file (or inquiry) for each style is developed including styling details,
fabrication details, workmanship details, fabric, trend and style specifications and then the
first prototype sample is made. The first sample is very basic, but it is tricky since they
need to find suitable fabric and only use available fabrics. According to the team manager,
fabric is the most important element in sampling, with fabrication and styling details being
sent in a preliminary product development process to the factory. The first sample takes
approximately 1 week to make and buyer gets back to the product development team with
comments, which may take up to 2-3 weeks. After that, the supplier constructs the revised
70

prototype sample and then salesman sample (which is the sample the buyer will use to
sell collection to other buyers). It is very common for buyer to drop product development of
some samples following the salesman sample, for example, the buyer requests to develop
40 samples but may only order 20 of the styles later. Usually after this, the company is
ready for mass production but first the product development team needs to finalize fabric
and trims details. Once salesman sample is approved, the buyer may request for size set
sample which include fitting and measurement issues for all sizes for the style. The
company then asks for Pre-Production Sample, but must wait for bulk fabric to arrive first.
Please refer to Figure 4-3 for a summary of the companys order process with the sample
development process highlighted and Figure 4.3 for a summary of the parties involved in
the sample development process.
71


Figure 4-3 Company B Order Process
Prepare fabric
swatches, new
developments,
styling concepts
Continuously send
fabric and style
developments to
bueyr for
consideration
Product
Development
Meeting
Buyer places
development orders
to Product
Development Team
Technical file (inquiry)
prepared with fabric,
styling and
workmanship
requirements for each
style
First Prototype
sample assessment
and approval
Revised second
Prototype sample
assessment and
approval
Salesman sample
assessment and
approval
Sales Meeting
Buyer drops
development of some
orders and place real
orders for others to
enter production
Source bulk fabric
Price and HOD
negotiations
Buyer may request
Size set sample
assessment and
approval
Finalize bulk fabric
and trims details
Pre-Production
sample assessment
and approval
Bulk Production
Shipment sample
assessment and
approval
Order Shipped and
Completed
72


Figure 4-4 Involved Parties in Company B Sample Development Process
The whole sample development process (Please refer to Section 1.3 for the process
definition) takes around 40 days, according to the product developer. During the process,
their buyer is very slow with sample feedback which may cause difficulty for the factory as
they need to plan production. The time for development is generally enough but it
depends on the communication since every communication with buyer must be based on
mutual understanding on, for example, trade-off between production lead time, the
sourcing needs and the buyers delivery date requirement.
4.3.2.3 Part 3 Nonconformance in the Sample Development Process
During the sample approval process, the buyer approves all samples according to the
buyers requirements. If there are any deviations from the requirements, the company
Buying Agent in France
and United Kingdom
Buyer in France and
United Kingdom
Export House in Hong
Kong
Supplier in Mainland
China
73

asks the factory to correct it before actually sending the sample to the buyer for approval.
During the prototype sample development, both technical and overall design
considerations are considered in sample assessment. One of the interviewees expressed
that being too technical can result in sending samples to buyer in a haste, which does not
follow buyers requirements on design and overall presentation. If there is one little
mistake in the development process of samples, the factory needs to make another one
which is a waste of money and time, according to one of the interviewees.
When the buyer receives the first prototype sample, they might adjust fitting and styling
and request a second prototype sample. The buyer may change the measurements a little
if there are measurement issues when sample is fitted on a live model. Workmanship and
measurement nonconformance are common in prototype samples. The designer of the
style may not be aware of technical aspects of production and in some styles the
suggested sewing or make-up method cannot be used. The sewing methods used in
mass production and sampling are also very different as the factory seem to have difficulty
in following the samples into mass production, expressed one of the interviewees. In that
case, utilization of a simple sewing method is preferred and possible in production. The
second prototype sample may still have fitting and trims issues, for example,
measurement may be correct but fitting might need minor corrections. If the second
74

sample is not needed, the salesman sample is developed and assessed according to final
styling, presentation and overall look.
The nonconformance issues in the first and second prototype samples should be
corrected in the salesman sample. However, the interviewers expressed that there are still
inconsistencies between color and size measurement specifications and the physical
samples in later samples, but the salesman sample requires a truly correct color in order
to sell.
The size set samples are assessed according to buyers measurement and styling
specifications. Workmanship issues of the sample can be included on a sample comment
card provided by the factory and this way they may let the buyer know that, especially if
the problem is minor, the point can be corrected in bulk production. Hence, there is an
internal sample inspection at the supplier before sending it to the company. If there are
workmanship issues, the company explains to the factory which specific part has the
problem and demands a mock-up of only that part.
One of the interviewees expressed that factories may not respect the comments provided
during the development process. For example, they may advice the factory to use same
material in the next sample but the factory may use a different material.
75

Design, workmanship, measurement and styling were expressed as the most common
nonconformances. For the optimal order, 1 prototype, 1 salesman, 1 size set, 1 pre-
production sample are developed during the sample development process.
4.3.2.4 Part 4 Unreasonable sample development time and the Sample
Development Process (Please refer to Section 1.3 for the term and process
definitions)
Reasonable time to develop the first sample, if the fabric is in hand, is 3-14 days. If every
material is ready, unreasonable sample development time is more than 2 weeks. For pre-
production sample, more than 1 week development time is unreasonable. Sample room
overcapacity will lead to postponing a sample, said one of the interviewees.
Sometimes the buyer may be slow at providing comments or will ask to revise samples
over and over again. At the same time, the supplier merchandiser often misunderstands
comment given by the company. Since the pre-production has to be approved before
cutting of bulk fabric, factors leading up to the approved sample may require change of
Hand-Over-Date. A late submission of prototype sample, size set sample or pre-
production sample may cause postponement of the bulk cut. It is very important to chase
size set sample to provide to buyer before bulk cut. If the process demand more samples,
buyer needs time to fulfill and approve all those samples which will definitely prolong the
sample development process.

A better control of sampling procedures and a strict control of everything that is put into
the product can minimize unreasonable sample development time, expressed one of the
76

interviewees. The company cannot totally control a factory but by following a system, they
can improve.
4.3.2.5 Part 5 Supplier Relationship Factors and the Sample Development Process
The communication factor was the most dominant in Company B and is elaborated below.
4.3.2.5.1 Communication and Information-Sharing
Each buyers sampling procedure and details are always explained to the factories as
every buyer has a different sampling procedure. General ideas are communicated by
phone and details of every season are communicated by email, specifications and
documents. Any unclear information and information that is not totally assured is not
shared with the suppliers. One of the interviewees expressed that some suppliers always
want to hide because they are afraid that others will steal clients by sharing information.
There is a product development team that makes sure that the factory follows guidelines
provided by the company, which are provided to the company from the buyer. Essential
guidelines not understood by the factory can create a lot of problem in the development
process flow.
4.3.2.6 Part 6 Future Improvements and Additional Comments
In order to build a collaborative relationship with the suppliers, the company needs to keep
placing orders with a certain supplier but if the orders are small all the time, the company
cannot take time to improve in any way. Each company has its own interest that may
clash as relationships are better with others, as expressed by one of the interviewees.
The same interviewee stated that: the relationship is not the problem here; there is just a
need of a clear system because everyone has their own way of doing things.
77

4.4 Comparative Summary
The highlighted differences in the table below illustrate the comparative summary for
Company A and B.
The Sample Development
Process and its
Effectiveness
Company A Company B
Responsibilities Providing a smooth order
process of orders received
from internal company buyer
in Sweden.
Work with independent and
different buyers that requires
to follow their sampling
procedures.
Communication Flow and
Company Order Process
Relatively simple order
process with internal buyers.
Samples for each order
include lab dips, strike-offs,
trims, style sample and
counter sample which is the
final approved sample.
Relatively complicated order
process with external buyers.
Samples for each order
include prototype and
salesman samples. Samples
for each order following
sales meeting include size
set and pre-production
samples, which is the final
approved sample.
Nonconformance in the
Sample Development
Process
Lab Dips Metamerism and
Mismatch between print and
fabric colors
First Style Sample Fitting,
Workmanship and Size
measurements
Revised Style Sample
Unable to follow sample
comments
Counter Sample Color
deviations, Size
measurements, Fabric
quality and Child safety.
First Prototype Sample
Fitting. Styling, Workmanship
and Size measurement.
Salesman Sample Styling
and Presentation
Size Set Sample Size
measurements and Styling.

Unreasonable Sample
Development Time and the
Sample Development
Process
Unreasonable 2 weeks to
deliver a sample
Factors Sample room
overcapacity, High number
of rejections, Collaborative
Efforts, Unclear and late
sample Comments,
Availability of Materials,
Communication procedures
Unreasonable 2 weeks (1
week for prototype samples)
Factors Misunderstanding
of sample comment, Late
submission of sample, Late
buyer sample comment,
Communication procedures
Supplier Relationship
Factors and the Sample
Development Process
Communication Privacy
issue, No standardized order
procedure, Only
Communication
Procedural guidelines from
buyer, Unable to share
78

requirements are
communicated
Collaborative Efforts
Early sample development
and Manufacturing feasibility
information, Privacy issue
Future Improvements and
Additional Comments
Collaborative Efforts
Aligning goals and targets,
Open communications, Risks
of collaborative relationships,
Failed sample process
Collaborative Efforts
Depend on size and
frequency of orders, Need of
a clear procedure
Table 4-1 Comparative Summary of Case Study Findings
4.5 Summary
The information presented in this chapter is the analytical summary of the data collected
from the case studies. The researcher investigated the sample development process used
in the two chosen companies, evaluated its effectiveness and examined how supplier
relationship factors and technical nonconformance factors affect the process. This chapter
reported the major findings including history of the company, historical review of the
company in focus and the sample development processes currently used in two chosen
companies.
The findings gave the researcher an understanding of the current sample development
process and its effectiveness. The analysis and recommendations regarding the sample
development process are presented in Chapter 5.

79

5 Analysis, Discussion and Recommendations
5.1 Introduction
The reported findings are presented in this chapter, structured into critical issues/themes
derived during the thematic analysis of the data collected. A model was constructed to
present the critical issues and problematic stages of the sample development process to
show their relationship according to the fundamental research objectives and assumption
of this project. The assumption which led the research effort in this project was presented
in Section 1.3.1. Finally, recommendations were made on the sample development
processes presented in the case study findings presented in this report, taking identified
critical issues in consideration.
The strategy for data synthesis in this project was thematic analysis where each new
piece of information is examined in light of a particular research objective in order to
construct a tentative finding. These tentative answers are categorized into themes and this
process continues until themes emerge that are well supported by all available information.
Conclusively, the themes for which the information supports a tentative finding are
retained and reported as findings (Hancock and Algozzine, 2006).
80

5.2 Critical Issues
This project focused on the sample development process and the impact of supplier
relationship factors on the effectiveness of this process. From the collection of data from
multiple and diverse data sources, the following critical issues were identified following an
extensive analysis and synthesis of the data by categorization and theme-construction.
5.2.1 Nonconformance Factors
The nonconformance ending up in a sample rejection roots not only from the samples
failure to fulfill specifications but also from unclear, often non-verbalized design and
workmanship expectations. Nonconformances which lead to sample rejections are due in
two situations: (1), the sample fails to fulfill the companys technical specifications or (2),
the sample fails to fulfill the companys design and workmanship expectations. The
technical or expectation nonconformance issues are either (1), new (did not appear in
previous samples of the same style) or (2), consistent (appeared in previous samples of
the same style).
81

5.2.1.1 Specifications: Technical Nonconformance
Technical nonconformance is due to deviations between technical specifications provided
by the buyer and the physical sample provided by the supplier. The technical
specifications include measurement list, fabric specifications and color specifications.
5.2.1.1.1 Size Specification Measurement
The high number of size measurement deviations found in the case studies is due to lack
of collaborative efforts or lack of communication during the sample development process.
However, it is a consistent problem and is also due to many small factors, such as
carelessness of the supplier when making the paper pattern. This is mainly applicable to
the style and size set samples.
5.2.1.1.2 Fabric Quality Specifications
Nonconformance of fabric specifications is mainly due to lack of mutual understanding and
negligence by supplier. This is applicable to style samples and salesman samples.
5.2.1.1.3 Color Specifications
Technical nonconformance in color can demand a long approval process for the bulk
fabric and its match to the print color. However, this is not major as they do not happen as
82

consistently as size measurement nonconformance and is applicable to lab dips and
strike-offs.
5.2.1.2 Expectations: Design and Workmanship Nonconformance
The sample development process aims to transform design and workmanship
expectations into physical samples, fulfilling the expectations of the buyer. This
transformation stage evolved as highly problematic in the case studies and the major
factors are presented below.
5.2.1.2.1 Expectations of Workmanship
The most crucial aspect of this issue involved workmanship nonconformance. The
workmanship expectations are communicated to the manufacturer through a technical
detailed sketch. However, these sketches allow subjective interpretation of the supplier. A
second reason was also that the designer of the style may not be aware of technical
aspects of production. A system or procedure is needed to clarify and alert the supplier of
specific workmanship expectations in specific styles as appropriate in order to minimize
number of samples needed during the sample development process. This is mainly
applicable to style samples, development samples and prototype samples.
83

5.2.1.2.2 Feasibility
The manufacturing feasibility of design and workmanship expectations is not tackled early
in the case studies. The manufacturing feasibility should be taken in consideration as early
as possible in the sample development process in order to minimize unreasonably amount
of samples resulted from constant rejections. This is applicable to the style sample,
development sample and prototype samples.
5.2.1.2.3 Expectations of Fit
Fitting issues are not only related to measurements but also to comfort, balance and
wearability. These fit expectations should be communicated through a systematic
procedure as early in the sample development process as possible to minimize the risk of
these nonconformances. This is mainly applicable to style and counter samples.
5.2.1.2.4 Expectations of Color (Visual Color Match and Metamerism)
The expectations of the color in samples are: (1), the visual match between print and main
fabric and (2), similar color in daylight and shoplight. The supplier must have a good
understanding from past orders (i.e. a knowledge management system) in order to assess
the color expectations from the buyer for specific styles. This is mainly applicable to
counter and salesman samples.
84

5.2.2 Supplier Relationship Factors
The nonconformance from technical specifications and design expectations are not the
only causes of unreasonably long sample development time. Additionally, supplier
relationship factors such as communication and established sample follow-up procedures
have an impact. For example, as the manager of Company A puts it:we could be much
better with order to reduce no. of samples by standardizing more and make sure everyone
follows the rules.
5.2.2.1 Direct: Communication
Effective communication facilitates the product development process to produce right
products according to customers inquiries. The communication issues during the sample
development process are consequences of many factors including unclear communication
of specifications and expectations, undefined product development process, vague
communication procedures, non-standardized usage of language,
overlapping/contradiction of sample comments and redundancy. Below are the specific
critical communication factors between buyer and supplier that affect the effectiveness of
the sample development process identified throughout the research.
85

5.2.2.1.1 Unclear Communication of Specifications
The specifications in this context include measurement lists, color standards and fabric
specifications with composition, weight and construction. The data gathered illuminated
that there are many nonconformances in relation to the measurement list and color
specifications. Hence, a different format and/or adjusted tolerances may help decrease
these conformances but one can more accurately relate these problems to the suppliers
lack of understanding of buyers requirements, manufacturers carelessness in following
measurement list and sample room overcapacity, negligence of buyers specifications, all
of which emerged in the primary data collected.
5.2.2.1.2 Unclear Communication of Expectations
Expectations in this context involve buyers design and workmanship expectations and
how they communicate them to the supplier. Expectations are provided in form of
technical sketches and quality requirements to the manufacturer and allow the
manufacturer to interpret them subjectively. Thus, this space of manufacturers own
interpretation needs to be minimized so that the sample can commit to the companies
expectations at an earliest stage possible in the sample development process.
86

5.2.2.1.3 Comments
Sample comments is the way to communicate nonconformances including technical,
design and workmanship nonconformances to the manufacturer in order to rectify the
sample at the earliest stage possible of the sample development process. A consistent
problem that was supported by data from all sources of evidence was the vagueness of
buyers comments and the suppliers incapability to follow these comments, explained by
misunderstanding and negligence.
5.2.2.1.4 Communication Technology
The importance of right media in communication was noticed by Ying (1998). The
companies use conventional methods of communication including face-to-face meetings,
courier, telephone and email. Communication flow focus on receiving and passing
information on to the right person, at the right time and through the right media and by
using more sophisticated methods such as CAD/CAM technology and videoconferencing,
communication between buyer and supplier can be improved.
5.2.2.1.5 Use of Language
The language barrier, although less significant than the previous issues, was a consistent
theme in the sample development process. By not using standardized language and
87

phrasing, many sample comments becomes vague, unclear and even contradictory to
each other, confusing the supplier and prolonging the sample development process.
5.2.2.2 Indirect: Collaborative Efforts
The drive or the lack of collaborative efforts indirectly affects the effectiveness of the
sample development process. By not being able to learn from each other or without
mutual trust and objectives, the sample development process suffers of redundancy,
incapability to improve, unreasonably long sample development time and sample
rejections. Below are the specific descriptions of the indirect supplier relationship factors.
5.2.2.2.1 Evaluation, Feedback and Knowledge Management
The lack of documentation of suppliers technical expertise and its unwillingness to share
this with the buyer prolongs the sample development process. By evaluating orders with
sample development problems together, both parties can learn something from the
process. Feedback is needed to communicate ineffectiveness in the process and
knowledge and technical expertise needs to be retained in order to be utilized with mutual
benefits in the future.
88

5.2.2.2.2 Matching Objectives & Goals
A theme of each companys interests vs. the others companys interests emerged in the
study. A lack of willingness of mutual growth and an inconsistent future strategic plan for
the supplier buyer relationship cause ineffectiveness in the sample development process.
The buyer and supplier should conduct more strategic planning meetings for future
prospects of their relationship and align strategic goals with each other in order to create
synergy and improve the smoothness of the sample development process through mutual
trust and understanding.
5.2.2.2.3 Procedures
A lack of or vagueness of sample follow-up procedures for the supplier and buyer
emerged in the process. Suppliers complained that the buyers are slow to provide
sample comments while the buyers complained that the suppliers are late to submit
samples. The company in focus has an internally defined communication flow but it is not
standardized between the two parties causing inconsistencies in sample time expectations
and confusion in the process, resulting in that the buyer chases the supplier to send
samples and correct past samples.
89

5.2.2.2.4 Availability of Materials
This affects the suppliers ability to supply a sample on time required by buyer and this is
not in direct control of the companies. The relationships between suppliers and their fabric
mills consequently affect the effectiveness of the sample development process.
5.2.3 Summary
While technical and expectations nonconformances result in sample rejections, initial
stages and evaluation of manufacturing feasibility at an earliest stage possible proved to
be the consistent and most crucial issues after the data analysis.
The model presented in Section 5.3 illustrates the relationship of all the factors presented
in this section and recommendations on how to optimize the sample development process
are presented in Section 5.4. The model validates the initial assumption, which led the
project research effort, presented in Section 1.2.1. Consequently, the relationships
between the factors are clarified through the illustration of the model.
90

5.3 Model
The researcher constructed a model to clarify the relationships between critical issues
identified in the research and the sample development process in regards of unreasonably
long sample development time. Each factor is explained in detail in Section 5.2.

















Supplier Relationship Factors

Direct
Communication:
- Specifications
- Expectations
- Comments
- Technology
- Language

Indirect
Collaborative Efforts:
- Evaluation,
Feedback and
Knowledge
Management
- Matching
Objectives
and Goals
- Procedures
- Availability of
Materials
Nonconformances

Specifications
Style Sample:
- Size
Measurement
- Fabric Quality
Counter Sample:
- Color
Expectations
Style Sample:
- Workmanship
- Feasibility
- Fit
Counter Sample:
- Color
Rejections

Unreasonable Number of Samples
during Sample Development

Unreasonably Long Sample
Development Time
Waste of time and
monetary resources

Production Delay

Consistent or New Nonconformance Factors

Figure 5-1 - Sample Development Process Model of Ineffectiveness (SDPI)
91

5.4 Recommendations
Based on the identification of the critical issues in the sample development process and
the constructed model illustrating their relationships to the sample development process,
the researcher conceptualized feasible recommendations for the case studies in this
project and similar apparel companies. The crucial elements of the recommendations are
the financial investment needed, the manufacturing cost of the product, the retail price of
the product and the quality level of the product. Therefore the financial and practical
feasibility are most considered when recommending process optimization in this project.
The recommendations are divided into two parts, short-term recommendations, which
focus on communication issues and long-term recommendations, which focus on
collaborative efforts.
5.4.1 Short-term recommendations: Focus on Communication
5.4.1.1 What supplier can do:
5.4.1.1.1 Assess manufacturing feasibility and provide comments to buyer earliest
possible
The supplier should evaluate the manufacturing feasibility of orders at an early stage in
the sample development process, with the goals of providing suggestions to buyer on how
to optimize the style in the light of manufacturing feasibility. By assessing feasibility at an
92

early stage, workmanship and technical nonconformances can be prevented in the later
stages of the sample development process.
5.4.1.2 What buyer can do:
5.4.1.2.1 Alert system: clearer communication of design expectations for each style
As the companies cannot set exceedingly high expectation standard since the suppliers
have bargaining power and will push the price up, by communicating design and
workmanship expectations more effectively to the supplier through a Style Alert System,
the buyer can minimize the sample nonconformance related to these two issues. The
researcher propose to build an alert system to identify, describe and articulate specific
workmanship expectations of specific styles as appropriate, in order to minimize these
nonconformances consistently in the sample development process. The goal of the
system should be to communicate as much as possible with as little words as possible.
5.4.1.2.2 Utilize Quality Control Technicians Roaming Personnel
By direct communication at factories, clarifications on misunderstandings of expectations
and specification issues will facilitate a more effective and efficient sample development
process. By giving suggestions at site, the personnel may gain experience through mutual
considerations and discussion between both parties. Thus, the researcher recommend the
companies to use roaming personnel, including Quality Control team, to investigate not
93

only in-line and final inspection but also development, style, salesman, and counter
samples made by the suppliers.
5.4.1.3 What both supplier and buyer can do:
5.4.1.3.1 Knowledge Management with Electronic Data Interchange (EDI)
The researcher proposes the company in focus to initiate more knowledge management
and mutual learning during the sample development process. This can be realized by the
use of EDI which is an affordable and easy-to-implement communication technology. This
could also improve the effectiveness of communicating both technical specifications and
design and workmanship expectations by standardized formats through an EDI
communication platform. More sharing of technical knowledge, for example mutual
evaluation of issues when developing certain products including workmanship and
technical problems of development, may increase the effectiveness of the sample
development process with effective utilization of technical expertise of supplier for mutual
benefits.
5.4.1.3.2 Develop standardized sample follow-up procedure
A standardized communication flow and expectations of sample follow-up procedures
include the mutual development of the procedures. Both parties should set practice
together as to ensure the procedures is not a requirement from one party only, the
94

procedures should be officially confirmed by both parties and thus reach an agreement to
adopt the procedures for mutual benefits. The procedures should incorporate a tracking
system to ensure measurable objectives are met throughout the sample development
process at different stages, that is, quantifying sample follow-up requirements, for
example, the mutually understood commitment to send a sample within a certain period of
time for all orders. The process can easily be evaluated by, for example, quantifying how
many times samples have fulfill the standard (time and quality-wise) and the evaluation
should be communicated between parties for mutual growth. A standardized sample
development process and procedures for all suppliers will benefit the company and
supplier and consequently: (1), increase mutual trust, (2), loose less time of development,
(3), allow easy fill in by new employees (4), decrease sample development lead times and
(5), create measurable goals through a monitoring system.
5.4.1.3.3 Full Utilization of Communication Technology
Communication media such as Video conferencing will maximize effective communication
between buyer and supplier in multiple settings. For example, while conducting a
knowledge management meeting to assess supplier performance and product
development performances, physical samples can be used and referenced to effectively
with an increased potential of mutual understanding while communicating face-to-face
95

through virtual media. This is also applicable to any development stage during the sample
development process itself to ensure mutual understanding of sample issues and to
communicate design and workmanship expectations effectively.
5.4.2 Long-term strategic recommendations: Focus on Collaborative Efforts
5.4.2.1 What the supplier can do:
5.4.2.1.1 Centralize sample making activities
Increasing value-added service to buyer by allowing manufacturing feasibility assessment
through a local office in Hong Kong and centralized sample-making in Hong Kong, will
improve the effectiveness of solving problems in the sample development process as
early as possible in order to minimize unreasonable amount of samples needed and
minimize sample development time.
5.4.2.2 What the buyer and supplier can do together:
5.4.2.2.1 Align strategic (goals and objectives) and operational planning
This will increase mutual trust, cooperation and understanding of expectations and could
be achieved through the Total Quality Management (TQM) protocol or ISO 9000
guidelines. Through these protocols and guidelines, the supplier and buyer can conduct
several strategic meetings to develop aligned goals, gain a better understanding of each
96

other and even develop mutual standardized day-to-day procedures, as stated in the
short-term recommendations. During these meetings, standard and measurable objectives
should be developed, that is, timeframes and key activities, to set a platform for
continuous improvement in accordance to the TQM framework. Accordingly, during these
meetings, buyer should show past performance according to the measurable objectives
developed while finalizing the standardized sample process procedures (Refer to Section
5.4.1.3.2). The past performance should include data and figures to provide a clear picture
of performance to supplier. During the meeting, minutes should be kept to be confirmed by
both parties after the meeting to ensure mutual understanding. This allows the buyer to
monitor suppliers process and performance while ensuring mutual growth and an
increasing mutual understanding of quality expectations and targets.
5.5 Limitations
There are many more factors in the sample development process, which the companies
have less control of, than the identified critical issues in this project. These include
relationships between suppliers and their sub-suppliers and the bargaining power of
suppliers.
97

A major limitation of this study is the low response rate of the conducted survey, which
leads to invalid grounds for representative data. A cause for this is the researchers lack of
control on the response rate as the survey was communicated to suppliers through an
internal network between the company and the manufacturer.
The novice research experience of the researcher also affected the quality of this project
as case study research demand high conceptual skills of the researcher and substantial
research experience is considered a merit.


98

6 Conclusion, Summary and Future Research
This project focused on the sample development process currently practiced in apparel
sourcing companies in Hong Kong. The focus was on a private-label retailer, sourcing its
products from South China for sale in Europe while an export house working with external
buyers was investigated to provide a comparative basis for broader application of the
research results. The summary of the research outcomes are presented here in terms of
the research objectives stated in Section 1.4.
6.1 Understanding of current sample development process
The researcher gained an in-depth understanding of the current sample development
processes of two selected apparel companies in Hong Kong in order to establish a ground
for future research objectives. The investigation resulted in the determination of crucial
factors during the data analysis process.
6.2 Evaluate the effectiveness and affect of supplier relationship
factors
The researcher evaluated the process and concluded that the sample development
process is ineffective and requires improvement. Supplier relationship factors emerged
during the data analysis in relation to unreasonable sample development time and
unreasonable number of samples during the process resulting in waste of money and time
99

and/or production/order delay. The main factors contributing to process ineffectiveness
was communication, collaborative efforts and failure to meet buyers expectations.
6.3 Construct a model to show relationships
The researcher, based on the data from the findings, constructed a model which illustrated
the supplier relationship factors and its direct effect on unreasonably sample development
time and its indirect effect on it through technical and expectation nonconformance factors.
Through this model, the initial assumption stated in Section 1.2.1 was validated.
6.4 Suggest Recommendations for Process Optimization
The researcher, based on the findings of critical issues and the constructed model, gave
economically and practically feasible recommendations for the case study companies and
similar companies to improve/optimize the sample development process in terms of
unreasonable sample development time.
6.5 Implications to Apparel Companies
To fulfill the expectations of a buyer, a manufacturer must have a deep understanding of
the quality expectations of the buyer, verbalized or non-verbalized. In order for the buyer
to realize this understanding, a closer relationship needs to be built between buyers and
suppliers currently facing the same evidential issue explained in this project.
100

Manufacturers need to start taking an aggressive approach on building closer
relationships with their buyers in order to understand their quality requirements and
expectation, especially in a fast developing manufacturing hot-spot which is South China.
Buyers and suppliers need not only to focus on direct communication factors that affect
the effectiveness of the sample development process, but also indirect collaborative
efforts such as mutual procedures, matching objectives and goals and building knowledge
together. By focusing on both these aspects, the sample development process will be
more effective, demanding less rejection due to nonconformance and ultimately utilizing
less time and monetary resources in the process.
6.6 Suggestions for Future Research
This exploratory case study is mainly based on qualitative and statistically weak
quantitative data and thus serves as a theoretical base for future quantitative research of
the sample development process.
Furthermore, due to the time constraints of this research project, the final
recommendations could not be proven as effective means of process optimization and
therefore the researcher suggest future research to validate the assumptions of the
recommendations with big implications to the developing apparel industry.




Appendices

Appendix A - Summary of Data Collected for the Historical Review of Company A
Appendix B - Interview Agenda
Appendix C - Written Documentation and Historical Records Data Collection Form
Appendix D - Survey Conducted in the Project
Appendix E - Survey Data

- 1 -





Appendix A Summary of Data Collected for the Historical
Review of Company A

- 2 -

Past Order Records
Supplier X
No. of
Placed
Orders
No. of
orders
demanding
2 style
samples
Percentage No. of
orders
demanding
3 or more
style
samples
Percentage No. of
orders
demanding
5 style
samples
Percentage
27 7 26% 4 15% 2 8%
Number of Samples demanded in relation to all orders within a specific period
Avg Lead Time 1 2 3 4 5
17 7 12 8 30 30
25 30 12 35
18 41 7 32 10
15 26 12 11 20 10
Avg Lead Time 1 2
22 40 5
53 91 16
150 150
90 90
126 126
99 99
124 124
Style Sample Lead Time
Counter Sample Lead Time

Sample Lead Times for selected orders (Unit = No. of Days)
Supplier Y
No. of
Placed
No. of orders
demanding 2
Percentage No. of orders
demanding 3
Percentage No. of orders
demanding 5
Percentage
- 3 -

Orders style
samples
or more style
samples
style
samples
14 12 86% 6 43% 1 7%
Number of Samples demanded in relation to all orders within a specific period
Avg Lead Time 1 2 3 4 5
17 10 19 23
15 20 18 7
13 3 18 25 8
25 37 25 15
26 41 7 32
14 3 12 30 14 15
Avg Lead Time 1 2
17 29 6
31 54 8
13 25 2
44 44
54 54
92 92
63 63
Style Sample Lead Time
Counter Sample Lead Time

Sample Lead Times for selected orders (Unit = No. of Days)
Past Sample Comments
Order 1
2 Nov Supplier send 1
st
SS to Merchandiser
2 Nov Merchandiser receive 1
st
SS
3 Nov HK Technician 1
st
SS Sample Inspection
4 Nov HK Technician send 1
st
SS Comments to Supplier
4 Nov Supplier receive 1
st
SS comments
16 Nov SE Technician send 1
st
SS Comments to Merchandiser
16 Nov Merchandiser send SE + HK 1
st
SS Comments to Supplier
11 Dec Merchandiser send SS comment to Supplier
- 4 -

11 Dec Supplier send 2
nd
style sample to merchandiser
15 Dec Supplier send urgent clarifications to merchandiser
15 Dec Merchandiser send urgent clarification to SE, SE sends answer to
Merchandiser, Merchandiser send to supplier
19 Dec supplier send 3
rd
style sample
22 Dec SE Technician send 2
nd
style sample comment to merchandiser,
merchandiser send to supplier
23 Dec HK Technician send 2
nd
style sample comment to supplier
3 Jan HK Technician Counter sample inspection
3 Jan Merchandiser send counter sample approval to supplier
15 Jan SE send 3
rd
SS comment to merchandiser
19 Jan HK Technician send 3
rd
SS comment to supplier
4 Feb Merchandiser send counter sample comment to supplier

Time from 1
st
Style Sample to Approved Counter
Sample
122 Days

Order 2
22 Oct HK Technician send 1
st
SS comment to Supplier
14 Dec SE Technician send 1
st
SS comment to HK technician, HK Technician
send to Supplier
14 Jan SE Technician send 2
nd
SS comment to HK technician, HK technician
send to supplier
29 Jan HK Technician send 3
rd
SS comment to supplier
18 Feb SE Technician send 3
rd
SS comment to HK technician, HK technician
send to supplier
16 Mar Merchandiser send CS approval to Supplier

Time from 1
st
Style Sample to Approved Counter 174
- 5 -

Sample

Order 3
15 Sep Supplier send 1
st
SS to merchandiser
16 Sep HK technician sample inspection
15 Oct HK technician send 1
st
SS comment to merchandiser
2 Oct Merchandiser send 1
st
SS comment to Supplier
14 Oct Supplier send 2
nd
SS to merchandiser
3 Nov SE technician send 1
st
SS comment to merchandiser, Merchandiser send
to supplier
14 Dec SE technician send 2
nd
SS comment to merchandiser
15 Dec - Merchandiser send SE 2
nd
SS comment to supplier
12 Jan Supplier send 3
rd
SS to Merchandiser
18 Jan SE Technician send 3
rd
SS comment to merchandiser and HK technician,
HK technician send to supplier and merchandiser
8 Mar HK Technician CS inspection
9 Mar Merchandiser send CS approval to supplier

Time from 1
st
Style Sample to Approved Counter
Sample
204


Official Documents
Official Sample Development Procedures
- 6 -

The document specifies official procedures and communication flow of information and
physical artifacts during the sample development process. The systematic communication
flow procedures in the company aims to enable effective communication with: sample
comments, fabric samples, trims samples, print samples, style samples and counter
samples. The procedures specify each persons role in the sampling process which can
help to minimize confusion, overlapping and redundancy.
First, it specifies what the merchandiser and assistant merchandiser are supposed to
check for while assessing the style sample: fabric quality, composition, construction and
trimmings. Thereafter the sample should be sent to the technician.

Secondly, it specifies what the technician is supposed to check for while assessing the
style sample: measurement, fitting and technical points. The technician should fill out the
sample report and only if the sample is acceptable, it should be sent to Sweden for
approval.

Thirdly, it specifies that all comments for fitting and measurements from Sweden and
merchandiser should be sent to supplier, but should be clarified or added on to if needed.
Thereafter, the assistant merchandiser should fill in the sample status in the order system.
If needed, the supplier will send a size set and the merchandiser should get comments for
fitting and measurements if so, and forward them to the supplier.

Fourthly, it specifies how many pieces of counter samples should be sent. One is needed
for Sweden, one is needed for Hong Kong, one is needed for in-house testing and one is
needed for Quality Control, totaling in 4 pieces. Simultaneously, the supplier should send
2 pieces to an approved external testing laboratory.
- 7 -

Next, it specifies what the merchandiser is supposed to check for in the counter sample:
check visually, construction, composition, weight, accessories, labels and attachments.
Thereafter the sample should be sent to the technician.

Thereafter, it specifies what the technician is supposed to check for in the counter sample:
seams, measurements, fitting, test on dummies/model. The technician should thereafter
fill out the sample report. If required, the counter sample should be given to internal
laboratory for in-house testing. During the testing it is specified that the counter sample
should be visually assessed before and after wash. The laboratory should fill out the in-
house testing report and give the result to the merchandiser.

Next, it specifies that the merchandiser should receive external laboratory testing results
and compare it with the internal laboratory test report and give them to the assistant
merchandiser. If the care instruction needs to be changed, approval from buyer is needed
and to inform the supplier is also a necessity. It specifies that the merchandiser is
responsible to inform the supplier when it is approved to cut.

Next, it specifies that the merchandiser needs to ensure all problems which occurred
during the sample development process has been solved. If so, the merchandiser is
specified to highlight the problems which occurred during the sampling process on the
sample report in order to give to the supplier and the Quality Control department. The
counter sample should be sealed if approved and comments should be added on the
production alert page.

It is specified that only if Sweden agrees, the counter sample is approved and a reference
sample is sent to Sweden.
- 8 -

During the sampling process, these documents and physical artifacts are used to support
the communication flow:
Lab Dip Template
Measurement Guide
Tolerance Guide
Sample inspection daily record (Style Sample)
Sample Handling Sheet
Internal testing report
Sample Inspection daily record (Counter Sample)
Follow-up lab reports
Security Seals
Sample Handling Sheet


Official Manufacturing Guide
This document is used by the company to officially communicate the quality targets and
expectations of samples and production of the apparel products placed by orders to the
supplier. It specifies (1), the companys planned process with the supplier and (2),
manufacturing requirements and expectations of the final approved sample.

- 9 -

The companys planned process with the supplier regarding the sample development
process is:
Choosing the supplier and evaluation The suppliers may only use factories that
has been evaluated and approved by the company. The company chooses the
suppliers which are best suited to manufacture each type of product.
Place order with test instruction
Providing the style sample This enables the company to confirm the style,
measurements, tailoring of garment and whether it complies with specifications.
The style sample may be manufactured to similar quality and similar color
available at the factory. It is specified that the company want to ensure the size
consistency and that the supplier must always observe the companys comments
regarding the style samples.
Order bulk fabric
Test fabric
Pass fabric test
Providing the counter sample It is specified that the counter sample must be
made of materials from bulk fabric and that all accessories must be of same quality
and color as in production. This sample must be checked to confirm that
everything corresponds with the order specifications.
Test counter sample
Pass counter sample test
Production It is specified that it must not start until both counter sample and
counter sample test reports have been approved by the company.

The specifications of the expected quality requirements of the final counter sample are:
- 10 -

Color assessment by light box color must be the same in D65 (daylight) and
TL84 (shop-light)
Fabric inspection all different dye lots must be compared to each other
Pre-production meeting before production the supplier must conduct a pre-
production meeting for every style to discuss how to produce the goods with
consistent quality taking all components of the product into consideration. It is
specified that everyone involved before and during production must attend this
meeting and records must be kept of the meeting
Seam construction the number of seams and seam allowances must be
sufficient to avoid seam slippage. If the overlock seam is used it must consist of at
least 4 threads. Elastic seams must be used on stretch fabrics. There must be no
sign of needle damage before or after wash. There must be no seam puckering.
For flat lock or decoration stitch, the thread tension must be loose enough,
especially at the neckline to allow garment over the head.
Buttons These are quite comprehensive requirements including all types of
buttons and those not mentioned must be attached correctly. It specifies that it is
the responsibility as the companys supplier to make sure that the button is
attached properly to garment. There should not be any space between the cap
and the fabric on press buttons and no prongs on press buttons shall be visible
inside or outside the button.
Accessories it is specified that they need to be shade-adjusted to the face fabric
and decorations must be fastened regularly during stitching
General finishing it is specified that there should be no sign of twisting and no
sign of repairing. Hems must be flat and even in depth and show no sign of
twisting.
- 11 -

Childrens safety comprehensive specifications including that the ends of
drawstrings, functional chords and belt ties should be finished with bar tack, plastic
tubes or heat fixation in order to stop them from fraying.



- 12 -






Appendix B Interview Agenda

- 13 -

Setup
Simple & direct purpose of interview daily and industry-related vocabulary
Order Process, Pre-production process, Sampling
Estimated length of Interview 1 hour
Type of questions to be explored Personal, Order Process, Sampling Process,
Order Delay, Buyer-Supplier Relationship
Specify type of product and supplier
Personal Information
1. What is your position?
2. How long have you been in your current position?
3. What is your role in the company?
4. What are your daily responsibilities?
5. How long have you been working with Supplier X?
6. How long have you been working with Supplier Y?
Transition
Order Process
7. Can you lead me through the order process?
8. What is your participation in the order process?
9. How long is the production lead time after order has been placed?
10. Do you think there is enough buffer time after order has been placed until
finished product delivery date to settle unexpected problems during the
order process?
Transition
Sampling Process
11. Who approves the samples received?
- 14 -

a. What kinds of samples are approved by Sweden buying office?
b. What kinds of samples are approved locally in Hong Kong office?
12. How is the quality of the samples assessed?
13. What are the problems common found in lab dips received?
14. What are the technical problems common found in first style samples
received?
15. What are the technical problems common found in revised style samples
received?
16. In what situation is there a need for a third style sample?
17. What are the technical problems common found in counter sample received?
18. What are the technical problems common found in revised counter samples
received?
19. What are the technical problems common found in production sample
received?
20. What are the technical problems common found in shipment sample
received?
21. Can you specify the most common reason for a sample to be rejected?
22. In the order process, how many samples are approved for one order usually?
Transition
Order Delay/ Sample Lead Time
23. If the order process for one order involves more samples than normal, will
the order be delayed?
24. What are the most common reasons for order delay?
25. How do you define unreasonable sample lead time?
26. Are there any specific reasons causing unreasonable sample lead time?
27. Do you think the supplier can prevent unreasonable sample lead time?
28. Do you think the company can prevent unreasonable sample lead time?
29. Is unreasonable sample lead time one of the reasons for an order to be
delayed?
- 15 -

Transition
Buyer/Supplier Relationship
30. What information is shared with your supplier?
31. How is this information shared with your supplier?
32. What information do you hesitate to share with your suppliers?
33. Do you think information sharing can have benefits for you and your supplier?
34. Do you think the use of same procedures between you and your supplier i.e.
standardized procedures can benefit the sampling process? For example,
standardized product specifications or format of communication.
35. Can it benefit the overall order process?
36. Do you and your supplier have a clear understanding of each others quality
expectations?
37. How do you define your relationship with your supplier at the moment if
given these two choices:
a. Competitive price negotiation relationship
b. Win-win collaborative relationship
38. Can a win-win type relationship reduce unreasonable sample lead time?
39. Can a price-oriented relationship reduce unreasonable sample lead time?
40. There are different factors in a buyer-supplier relationship. Could the
following factors optimize unreasonable sample lead time?
i. Using same procedures at both supplier and your office
ii. Both supplier and you understand quality expectations clearly
iii. Sharing of information such as capacity planning, market
research, trend development, specifications, standardizations
between you and your supplier
iv. Early supplier involvement in product development
41. What are the difficulties of establishing a win-win long-term collaboration
with your supplier?
42. How long has this company been supplying orders to suppliers in China and
Hong Kong?
- 16 -

43. Do you believe a change of the relationship with your supplier could
optimize or improve the order process?
End-Phase
44. Is there anything that I have not covered that you would like to add?
Commitment to provide research results to the respondent
45. May I contact you again for follow-up questions that might emerge in the
future?


- 17 -






Appendix C Written Documentation and Historical Records Data
Collection Form

- 18 -

Historical Data and Documents Data Collection Plan
Type of Document:
Source:
Date:
Title:
Content:


Effect on Sample Development Process and Supplier Relationship:

- 19 -






Appendix D Survey Conducted in the Project

- 20 -

I am a final year student of Fashion and Textile Technology at the Hong Kong Polytechnic
University and I am currently writing my Final Year Project which is investigating, in
conjunction with Company A, the issue of long sample lead times in apparel product
sourcing. This questionnaire will require less than 10 minutes to complete and please
answer the below questions as honest as possible. Your personal information will be kept
confidential and will not be known to any third party. Your dear participation and important
contribution in this study is very much appreciated.
Company A
10

Sample making
1. Please indicate the extent of effect the below factors affect the factory's ability to make
a sample. Please tick:
:
5 Have comprehensive and clear effect
4 Have certain distinct effect
3 Have some indistinct effect
2 Have very little effect
1 Have no effect

1. Awareness of stitch and workmanship requirement
2. Clearness of measurement list
- 21 -

3. Accuracy of paper pattern
4. Other: Please Specify :
Lab dip
2. Please indicate the extent of effect the below factors have on the factory sending a lab
dip which is not according to buyer specifications.
Please tick: : Have comprehensive
and clear effect, have certain distinct effect, have some indistinct effect, have very
little effect, have no effect
1. Color not according to available specification
2. Color specified to the factory is not the exact color wanted by buyer

3. Mismatch between fabric color and print color
4. Bad Coordination between print supplier and dye supplier

5. Other: Please Specify :
Trims /
3. What are the most common causes for a trim/accessory to be rejected by buyer
/? Please tick: :
5 Very common
4 Occur frequently
- 22 -

3 Happen from time to time
2 Almost never occur
1 Never occur
1. Wrong Color
2. Wrong Size
3. Mismatch with overall look of product
4. Wrong pattern (embroidery labels on the clothes) ()
5. Other: Please Specify :
Style sample
4. Please indicate the extent of effect the below factors have on the factory sending a first
style sample which is not according to buyer specifications.
Please tick:
Have comprehensive and clear effect, have certain distinct effect, have some
indistinct effect, have very little effect, have no effect
1. Miss pre-checking of sample at factory
2. Lack of past experience on making previous similar samples

3. Unclear comments from buyer
4. Sample room employee turnover
5. Lack of capability or competence to produce the style
6. Inability to control certain production method which will inevitably be different in mass
production
- 23 -

e.g. heat-setting ()
7. Failed communication between factory and buyer: please specify
()
Language problems
Infrequent communication
Unclear communication
8. Failed communication between factory merchandiser and factory sample room master:
please specify ()
New details not reach sample room
Translation to sample room not clear
Language problems
9. Unclear workmanship requirements: please specify :
Stitching density
Stitch type
Seam type
Sewing thread color
10. Unclear sketches provided by the buyer: please specify which part of the sketch is
unclear ()
Workmanship requirement
Style requirement
Cut requirement
Pattern requirement
- 24 -

11. Other: Please Specify :
5. Please indicate the extent of effect the below factors have on the factory sending a style
sample not on time required by buyer.
Please tick: Have comprehensive and clear effect, have
certain distinct effect, have some indistinct effect, have very little effect, have no
effect
1. Unavailability of materials
2. Internal sample room rejection of sample
3. Miss sample follow-up requirement
4. Sample room over capacity
5. Priority to other style orders
6. Time management
7. Vague follow-up requirements from buyer
8. Poor control of fabric and trim/
9. Paper pattern unavailable for the style
10. Late comment from buyer
11. Vague sample procedures Please Specify ()
Vagueness of buyer sample procedures ()
Vagueness of factory sample procedures ()
12. Other: Please Specify :
6. Please indicate the extent of effect the below factors have on the factory sending a
revised
- 25 -

style sample which is not according to buyer specifications.
Please tick: Have
comprehensive and clear
effect, have certain distinct effect, have some indistinct effect, have very little effect,
have no effect
1. Difficulty to follow comments from previous sample

2. Communication problem between factory merchandiser and factory sample room
master
3. Communication problem between factory and buyer
4. Vagueness of buyer's comments
5. Inability to correct mistakes from previous sample Please Specify:

Workmanship
Measurement
Pattern
6. Other: Please Specify :
7. Please indicate the extent of effect of the below factors on causing the factory to make
a third style sample Please tick:
Have comprehensive and clear effect, have certain distinct effect, have
some indistinct effect, have very little effect, have no effect
1. Color problems
2. Fabric quality problems
- 26 -

3. Comments not clear enough
4. Difficulty to follow style sample comments from previous samples

5. Other: Please Specify :
8. Please indicate how common the below technical problems of style samples causes the
sample not to fulfill buyer requirement.
Please tick: Very common, Occur frequently, Happen
from time to time, Almost never occur, Never occur
1. Fitting problem
2. Measurement problem
3. Fabric quality
4. Fabric weight
5. Fabric composition
6. Workmanship: please specify ()
Wrong stitch type
Poor stitch quality
Wrong stitch density
Wrong stitch tension
Wrong seam type
7. Other: Please Specify :
- 27 -

Counter Sample/Pre-production sample
9. Please indicate the extent of effect the below factors have on the factory sending a
counter/pre-production sample not on time required by buyer.
Please tick: Have comprehensive and
clear effect, have certain distinct effect, have some indistinct effect, have very little
effect, have no effect
1. Late comment by buyer
2. Unclear comment by buyer
3. Availability of materials: please specify ()
Bulk fabric
Bulk trims /
Bulk print
Labels
Price tags
Hangers
Stickers
4. Other: Please Specify :
10. Please indicate which of the below are common technical problems of counter/pre-
production samples causing the sample not to fulfill buyer requirement.
Please tick if common - may tick
- 28 -

more than one but maximum 5 -
5
Color deviation from lab dip and style/prototype samples
Dissimilarity from previous samples
Trimming problem/
Labeling problem
Packaging problem
Fabric quality problem
Fit problem
Measurement problem
Print problem
Child safety problem
Sample Lead Time
11. Please indicate the extent of the below factors could minimize the sample lead time
needed to produce any sample by the factory.
Please tick: Have comprehensive and clear effect,
have certain distinct effect, have some indistinct effect, have very little effect, have
no effect
1. Factory's awareness on how to execute an order and sample process

- 29 -

2. Use of same system at factory and buyer and share same order records

3. Mutual sharing of detailed capacity planning
4. Early sample development
5. Alignment of goals and objectives of buyer and supplier
6. Increase control of sample process
7. Increase control of order process
8. Expand size of sample room
9. Increase manpower of sample room
10. Receiving complete and clear set of information from the start of the order process

11. Clearer measurement list
12. Clearer sketch describing workmanship requirement
13. More frequent communication between buyer and the factory

- 30 -

14. Receive clear sample comments from buyer
15. Receive punctual (not late) sample comments from buyer
16. Early involvement of the factory in the order process
17. Develop and conform to standardized clear procedures specified by supplier and
buyer: please specify
Mutual standardization of sample follow-up procedures

Mutual standardization of order process procedures
Mutual standardization of sampling process
18. Build a collaborative long-term relationship: please
specify importance of these factors
Good and open communication
Match of manufacturer's and buyer's goals and objectives

- 31 -

19. Mutual understanding between each other: please
specify the importance of the following:
Buyers understanding of supplier commitment
Factory maintain clear and open dialogue with buyer

Understand each other's expectations of sample requirement times

20. Sharing of information : please specify the importance of sharing

Capacity planning
Procedures
Quality requirements
Follow-up requirements
21. Other: Please Specify :
12. Please indicate the extent of effect the below factors have on obstructing a decrease
in sample lead time. Please tick:
Have comprehensive and clear effect, have certain distinct effect, have
some indistinct effect, have very little effect, have no effect
- 32 -

1. Requirement to approve style sample before fabric is cut and fabric consumption
estimated
2. Requirement to approve style sample before receiving full size range measurement list

3. Requirement to approve counter sample before starting mass production

4. Other: Please Specify :
13. Please rate the extent of effect the below factors have on your ability to produce an
order sample on time.
Please tick: Have comprehensive and clear effect, have certain
distinct effect, have some indistinct effect, have very little effect, have no effect
1. Production jam/congestion
2. Product not according to buyer specification rejection

3. Failure of communication between buyer and factory
4. Other: Please Specify :
- 33 -

14. How many samples are required in the average order process:
? Please choose the number
1. Lab dip
1
2
3
4
2. Strike off
1
2
3
4
3. Style sample
1
2
3
4. Counter sample
1
2
- 34 -

3
5. Production sample
1
2
3
15. When do you start planning the production line for a confirmed order?

1 . After receiving order
2 . After receiving confirmation on style/prototype sample
3 . After receiving confirmation on counter/pre-production sample
(Time) How long time do you need to plan the production line for a confirmed order?

16. When do you order the bulk fabric for a confirmed order?

1 . After receiving order
2 . After receiving confirmation on style/prototype sample
3 . After receiving confirmation on counter/pre-production sample
Lead times
Please indicate if you agree or disagree with the below statements

- 35 -

Completely Disagree,
Partly Disagree,
Neither Agree nor Disagree,
Partly Agree,
Completely Agree
17. A decrease in sample process lead time of cause an overall decrease in complete
order process lead time
1 2 3 4 5
18. Production instructions have sufficient buffer time to solve problems during the
sampling process and meet the requested Hand Over Date.

1 2 3 4 5
19. Production instructions have sufficient buffer time to solve problems during mass
production and meet requested Hand Over Date

1 2 3 4 5
20. Please indicate the extent of effect the below factors have on the factory's ability to
supply the order on time. Please tick:
Have comprehensive and clear effect, have certain distinct effect, have
some indistinct effect, have very little effect, have no effect
- 36 -

1. Date of approved counter/pre-production sample
2. Unexpected problems in mass production e.g. color shading of different dye-lots
appears in one style

3. Unreasonably long sampling approval process
4. Unreasonable amount of sample rejections in the sampling process

5. Poor conformance of samples to buyer's requirements
6. 7. Vague procedures of follow up
8. Inability to meet production schedule
9. Collaboration between buyer and factory
10. Extra time needed to correct mistakes of counter sample in mass production

11. Poor time management from buyers side
12. Poor time management from manufacturers side
- 37 -

13. Issues in the sampling process. If yes, please specify where in the
sampling process has most significance on order being ordered on time:

Lab dip
Strike off
Trims sample /
Style/Prototype sample
Counter sample
Production sample
14. Inaccurate capacity planning: please specify :
Over capacity in production line
Over capacity in sample room
15. Poor control of materials: please specify :
Late arrival of bulk fabric
Late arrival of bulk print
Late arrival of bulk trims /
- 38 -

16. Other: Please Specify :
Buyer Supplier Relationship
21. Awareness Please rate
5 - Strong and clear awareness,
4 - Quite clear awareness,
3 - Vague awareness,
2 - Have little awareness,
1 - Have no awareness
How would you rate your awareness of this buyer's quality requirements?

How would you rate your awareness of this buyer's sample follow-up requirements?

22. What is this buyer's time requirement to send the first style sample?

1. Within 1 week after received production instructions
2. Within 2 weeks after received production instructions
- 39 -

3. Within 1 month after received production instructions
4. Depends on order's Hand over Date
Mutual Planning
23. Please rate the following according to your willingness to participate in mutual
planning of the following problems:
5 - Have strong willingness to participate,
4 - Have certain willingness to participate,
3 Have some willingness to participate,
2 - Have little willingness to participate,
1 - Have no willingness to participate

1. Detailed capacity planning
2. Trend forecasting
3. Cooperation with the purpose of decreasing sample lead time

- 40 -

4. Cooperation with the purpose of decreasing overall order lead time

5. Other Please Specify :
Capacity planning
Please answer the following question
24. What information do you include in your capacity planning?


Please fill out some information about yourself :
25. Your position :
26. Years of experience at this factory :

Thank you very much for your participation and contribution to this study!
!

- 41 -





Appendix E Survey Data


I

References

1. Anonymous (2008) Product Development Process by Apparel Search
Terms of Interest to the Fashion Industry, Apparelsearch.com

2. Anonymous (2009) Textile Outlook International: Business and Market
Analysis for the Global Textile and Apparel Industries, No 141, 2009,
Textiles Intelligence

3. Altinoz, C. (2001) Supplier Selection in Textiles: A Fuzzy Approach, North
Carolina State University

4. Au, K.F. and Yu, H.W., (2002) Developing Synergetic and Complementary
Effects in Textiles and Clothing Supply for Greater China, Journal of
Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol 6 No 2, 2002, pp. 177-194

5. Cavana, R.Y. (2001), Applied Business Research: Qualitative and
Quantitative Methods, Milton, Qld: Wiley

6. Choo et al (2009), Buyer-Supplier Relationships in Dongdaemun Fashion
Market: Relationship Quality Model, Journal of Fashion Marketing and
Management, Vol 13 No 4, 2009, pp. 481-500

7. Dowlatshahi, S. (1998) Implementing Early Supplier Involvement: A
Conceptual Framework, International Journal of Operations & Production
Management, Vol 18 No 2, 1998, pp. 143-167

8. Eisenhardt, K.M. (1989), Building Theories from Case Study Research,
The Academy of Management Review, Vol 14 No 4, 1989, pp. 532-560

9. Ernst, R. and Kamrad, B. (2000), Evaluation of supply chain structures
through modularization and postponement, European Journal of
Operational Research, Vol. 124 No. 3, pp. 495-510.
II


10. Fynes, B. et al (2004) The Impact of Supply Chain Relationship Quality on
Quality Performance, International Journal of Production Economics, Vol
96, 2005, pp. 339-354

11. Ghauri, P. and Gronhaug, K. (2005) Research Methods in Business
Studies. 3
rd
Edition. England: Prentice Hall Europe

12. Glock, R.E. and Kunz I.G. (2005) Apparel Manufacturing: Sewn Product
Analysis. 4
th
Edition. New Jersey: Pearson Prentice Hall

13. Gold, S. et al (2009) Sustainable Supply Chain Management and Inter-
Organizational Resources: A Literature Review, Corporate Social
Responsibility and Environmental Management, 2009

14. Holloway, I. (1997), Basic Concepts for Qualitative Research, Cornwall:
Blackwell Science Ltd.

15. Hunter, A., King, R. and Lowson, R.H. (2002), The Textile/Clothing Pipeline
and Quick Response Management, Oxford, UK: The Textile Institute
International

16. Jaikumar, R. (1986), "Postindustrial manufacturing", Harvard Business
Review, Vol. 64 No.6, pp.69-76.

17. Jang, N. (2001) Apparel Product Development: Influential Factors of
Apparel Product Success and Failure, University of Missouri-Columbia

18. Jang, N. et al (2005) Apparel Product Development: Measures of Apparel
Product Success and Failures, Journal of Fashion Marketing and
Management, Vol 9 No 2, 2005, pp. 195-206

19. Kim, S. and Vachtsevanos, G.J. (2000) An Intelligent Approach to
Integration and Control of Textile Processes, Information Sciences, 2000,
pp. 181-199
III


20. Kincade, D.H., (2008), Sewn Product Quality: A Management Perspective,
New Jersey: Pearson Prentice Hall

21. Knox, A. and Jana, P. (2002) Supply Chain Dynamics in Indian Apparel
Export Manufacturing: Collaborative Product Development, Nottingham
Trent University
22. Li & Fung Resource Center (2008) Latest developments of China's apparel
market, Issue 13, November

23. Li & Fung Resource Center (2008), China Purchasing Development
Report, Issue 13, November

24. Lee, D. (2002) Supply Chain Relationships in Apparel Retail Product
Development, University of North Texas

25. Leung, C.S. and Yeung, M (1995) Communications: Quick Response in
Clothing Merchandising, International Journal of Clothing Science and
Technology, Vol 7 No 4, 1995, pp. 44-55

26. Little, D. et al (2003), "Modeling the changing apparel supply chain",
International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 15 No.2,
pp.20-3

27. Lowson, R.H. (2003) Apparel Sourcing: Assessing the True Operational
Cost, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol 15 No
5, 2003, pp. 335-345

28. Mentzer, J.T. et al (2000) The Nature of Interfirm Partnering in Supply
Chain Management, Journal of Retailing, Vol 76 No 4, 2000, pp. 549-568

29. Parker, H. (2009) Interfirm Collaboration and the New Product
Development Process, Journal of Industrial Management and Data
Systems, Vol 100 No 6, 2009, pp. 255-260

IV

30. Pitimaneeyakul, U. (2001) "Product Development in the Knitwear Industry:
A Case Study", University of Minnesota

31. Shafaei, R., (2008), An Analytical Approach to Assessing the
Competitiveness in the Textile Industry, Journal of Fashion Marketing and
Management, Vol 13 No. 1, 2009, pp. 20-36

32. Stone, E. (1999). The Dynamics of Fashion. New York: Fairchild
Publications.
33. Stylios, G. (1996) The Principles of Intelligent Textile and Garment
Manufacturing Systems, Assembly Automation, Vol 16 No 3, 1996, pp. 40-
44

34. Swoboda, B. et al (2008) Exploring how Garment Firms Choose
International Sourcing- and Sales-Country Markets, Journal of Fashion
Marketing and Management, Vol 13 No 3, 2009, pp. 406-430

35. Thomas, R..M. (2003). Blending Qualitative and Quantitative Research
Methods in Theses and Dissertations, California: Corwin Press Inc

36. Valter, A.V., (2008), An extended theoretical model of fashion clothing
involvement, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol 13 No. 2
2009, pp. 179-200

37. Wassenhove et al (2007), Benchmarking the Competitiveness of Industrial
Sectors: Application in Textiles, International Journal of Productivity and
Performance Management, Vol 56 No. 7, 2007, pp. 603-622

38. Wickett, J. L., Gaskill, L. R., & Damhorst, M. L. (1999). Apparel retail
product development: Model testing and expansion. Clothing and Textiles
Research Journal, (117), 21-35.

39. Ying, Y.M. (1998) "Value Added Service in Product Development for a
Global Apparel Manufacturer: A Case Study", Hong Kong Polytechnic
University