Sewing Machine Instructions

INSTRUCTION BOOK
MODEL 652
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE * Turn a Square Corner ....... ........ .......... 25
Locate and Identify the Parts..................... 2-3 * Use the Darning Plate ........ ............. 26
,Topstitcbing........................ ...... 26
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Darning . .................. 27
Straight Stretch ...... ., . 27
Set Up the Machine..................... .. 4-8 Zigzag Stitches . ........... . , 28-35
*Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power... .... 4 * Basic Zigzag ......................... 28
*Foot Control Use 4 ai tth................. ........ 4eSaiStch................... ............................................... 29
* Set the Pressure Dial . . . . . . . . . . .. 5 * Applique . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
* Setting Spool Pins .. . . . . . . .6 a Bar Tacking . . . . .. . . . . . . . .. 30
* Adjust the Presser Foot Lever . . . . . .. 6 * Monogramminig . . . . . . . . .. .. . 31
* Thread Cutter . . . . . .. 6 & Embroidery . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 31
* Accessory Storage Box . ... . . . . . . ... 7 * Sew a Button . . .. . . . . . . .. 32
*Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table,. 7-~8 * Overcasting Stitch..................... ....... 33
Know What the Presser Feet Will Do............... 9~-11 a Rick-Rack Stretch .... ........ .............. 33
*Check Your Presser Foot ........................ 9 * Three-Step Zigzag . .. .......... ............ 34
*Change the Presser Foot ................. 9 * Overcast Stretch Stitching....................... 35
*Presser Foot Types ....................... 10-11 o Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching.............. 35
Choose Your Needle and Thread.......... 12 Blind Hemming ........... .. .. . . ............... 36
" Needle, Thread and Fabric Chart .. 12 Lace Work.................................... 37
" Check Your Needle............................ 12 Buttonhole Making........... ................ 38-39
* To Change Your Needle..................... ... 12 Sew in a Zipper .................... 40-41
Prepare the Bobbin ........ ............. 13-14 Shell Stitching. .. .............................. 42
" To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine........... 13 Two-Point Shell Stitching......................... 42
" Wind the Bobbin .. . . . . . . . . . . 13 S o kn . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . .. 43
*Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder............14 Smoecking ig ....... ... 4
repeYou Tp Tred ............... 15-8 aStretc Paitchin.......................... . .43
Preprea Your TopTheadle................... ..... 15B Fagoting Bn Stietch............................... 44
*Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread.................... 16 Elastic Stretch Stitch................. ........... 45
*Adjust the Top Thread Tension. .............. 17-1B Box Stitching.................................. 45
Stitch Selector . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Stitch Width Control ............. 19 SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
Stitch Length Control .. . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ......... 19 What to Do When ............. 46-47
Reverse Stitch Control .. . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Starting To Sew ............ 20 SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Replace the Light Bulb ........ 48
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES Clean the Bobbin Holder ............ 48
Practical Stitch Chart... 21--24 Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs................. 49
Straight Stitches ... ... ... 25--27 Oiling the Machines .. . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
" Straight Stitch .. . . . . . .. . . .. 25
" Use the Seam Guides . . . . . . . . . . .. 25
SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
Locate and Identify the Parts
Thread Spool Pins
Uppe Thead ideBobbinl
Winding Spindle
Take-up Lever
Controlh onro
Stitch Wid~th Control
Face Cover PIate Thread CutteGuide
2h
SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
At,, Coer PateCarrying
Harndle
Foote roontr
TOM &m.
HmAWel Pesse Foo
Push Pe Clue
SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine
Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power Foot Control Use
Power supply plug Power
a
Foot cntro~
Plug
The foot control regulates the speed at
connector which you sew.
Machine
Plug To increase speed, gently press down with
the ball of your foot.
1. Insert the machine plug into the three prong To decrease speed, release your foot pres-
outlet, as shown. It will only fit one way. sure slightly.
2. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet. NOTE: The foot control is sensitive and
will increase or decrease your
sewing speed immediately.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to
regulate your sewing speed to
your taste and needs.
4
Set the Pressure Dial
,Groove
Press-,
L*o irolSetn
Ii I Setiincj
'nark
The pressure control dial is located inside the face cover plate.
Set the dial aligning the setting mark on the dial with the groove as follows.
3 ..... .most sewing
2 ..... .applique and Cut-Out work
1 ..... .basting, sewing chiffon, lace, organdy and other lightweight fabrics.
Also for velours and knits (with more stretch).
NOTE: The pressure dial should be reset at 3 after changing pressure, so
the machine is ready for most normal sewing the next time you use
it.
5
Set Up the Machine (Continued)
* Setting Spool Pins e Adjust the Presser Foot Lever a Thread Cutter
Spool pin felt
Spool pin
~Thraad
No.mat up
position
High
~position
.p Normal
op
Highposition
P-esser loot
lever
The spool pins are used for holding the You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the
spools of thread in order to feed thread to thread after you finish sewing. Just use the
the machine, handy thread cutter.
To use, pull up the spool pins. Place the The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your The threads are cut the proper length for
spool felt on the pins. Push down for presser foot starting the next seam.
storage. You can raise it about 0.6 cm higher than the
normal up position for easy removal of the presser
foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the
presser foot.
6
o Accessory Storage Box * Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table
Your sewing machine can do tree arm sewing.
To remove: This feature makes sewing easy for:
To Remove the Extension Table
(for free-arm sewing)
1. Grip the table with your index finger and thumb,
The lid of the accessory storage box lifts as shown.
open toward you. 2. Pull gently toward you.
Sewing accessories are conveniently located The extension table will snap out. Bar tacking to reinforce pockets, plackets
in tckngtheinore oboxplckt
in the box.
Attach:
and waistlines on ready-made or home-
made garments to avoid fabric bunching
F Iti> 0 liihk: around the needle.
Slot
To Attach the Extension Table
(for flat bed sewing)
1. Fit the tabs into the slot, as shown.
2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in,
7
Set Up the Machine (Continued)
Stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant legs, * Darning socks or mending knees, elbows, * Sewing buttons on sleeves, waistbands,
or any circular garment area. or areas of wear in children's clothes. etc.
8
Know What the Presser Feet Will Do
. Check Your Presser Foot *Change the Presser Foot
The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. You need to know Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew. Consult the
what each f oot does in order to use them effectively. Stitch Pattern Chart and the detailed directions for sewing with the various
Your presser foot is held in place by a Foot Holder. Each presser foot merely presser feet.
snaps on the foot holder, which is seldom removed.
If you need to remove or attach the foot holder, here is what you do.
To Remove: To Attach: To Snap Off:
Presser bar fF npn I
oIf
Foot ~t
holder >'
To Remove: To Attach. To Snap Of f the Presser Foot:
Turn the screw toward the back of 1. Match the hole in the foot 1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel
the machine. Use the large screw holder with the threaded hole in toward you.
driver. the presser bar. 2. Raise the presser foot.
2. Fit the foot holder screw into 3. Press the snap-on button on the back of the foot holder. The presser
the hole. foot will drop off,
3. Tighten the screw by turning it
toward you.
9
Know What the Presser Feet Will Do (Continued)
. Presser Foot Types
Zigza FootStraight Foot
To Snap On
A: Zigzag foot
H: Straight foot
0Use this foot for both straight and zigzag Use this foot exclusively for straight
stitching. stitching using center needle position only.
pmUses: Zigzag stitching (see page 28). Uses: Straight stitching (see page 25),
Bar tacking (see page 30), Topstitching (see page 26).
Button sewing (see page 32), Straight stretch (see page 27).
Overcasting stitch (see page 33),
Rick-rack stretch (see page 33),
To Snap On the Presser Foot: Three-step zigzag (see page 34),
1. Place the presser foot so the hori- Serging (see page 35),
zontal pin on the foot lies just Overcast stretch (see page 35),
under the groove of the foot Blind hemming (see page 36-),
holder.Lace work (see page 37),
holder.Two-point
shell stitching
2. Lower the presser toot holder to (see page 42),
lock the presser f oot in place. Smocking (see page 43),
Stretch patching (see page 43),
NOTE: If you do not hear the Fagoting (see page 44),
presser foot snap in place, Herring bone stretch (see page 44),
press down on the presser Elastic stretch (see page 45),
foot holder firmly until you Box stitching (see page 45).
hear the snap.
10
Sliding Buttonhole Foot Zipper Foot Satin Stitch Foot
Sliding buttonhole foot E: Zipper foot F: Satin stitch foot
Use this foot for buttonholes of built in This foot can be set to sew on each side of Use this transparent foot for satin stitch and
system. It is marked to measure your your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the outlining applique.
buttonholes accurately. zipper and keep the seam straight. Uses: Satin stitch (see page 29),
Uses: Buttonhole making (see page 38). Uses. Zipper application (see page 40). Applique (see page 30),
Monogramming (see page 3 1),
Shell stitching (see page 42).
Choose Your Needle and Thread
*Needle, Thread and Fabric Chart o To Change Your Needle
FABRICS THREADS SIEEL
Fine Silk
LIGHT Crepe de Chine, Voile Fine Cotton9or1
WEIGHT Lawn, Organdy, Georgette, Tricot Fine Synthetic9or1
Fine Cotton Coveted Polyestert
50 Silk
MEDIUM Linens, Cotton, Pique 50 to 80 Cotton
WEIGHT Serge, Double Knits, Percale 50 to 60 Synthetic 11 or 14
Cotton Covered Polyester
50Silk
HEAVY Denim, Tweed, Gabardine, 40 to 50 Cotton
WEIGHT Coating, Drapery and Upholstery Fabric 40 to 50 Synthetic 14 or 16 F
Cotton Covered Polyester
NOTE:
In general, fine threads and needles are used for sewing thin fabrics, and thicker threads
and needles are used for sewing heavy fabrics. Always test thread and needle size on a
small piece of fabric which will be used for actual sewing.
*Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.
*When sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and synthetics, use a BLUE TIPPED needle. The NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest posi-
blue tipped needle effectively prevents skipped stitches,
tion by turning the hand wheel toward
*hnsewing very f ine fabrics, sew over a piece of paper to prevent yarn distortion.
you.
1 . Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it
* Check Your Needletoadyu
1. Never use a bent needle or one with a dull point. 2 eoetenel ypligi onad
The exact length of your needle is shown at left. 3. Insert the new needle into the needle clamp
Be sure you never use one in your machine that with the flat side away from you.
is not this exact length. 4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.
2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or 5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the
runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics, large screwdriver from your accessory storage
*Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist box.
tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in
thickness.
12
Prepare the Bobbin
* To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine a Wind the Bobbin
1. Gently push down on the bobbin cover plate and slide
it towards you.
Bobbm wind,,q s:vrdle *
2. Set aside.
3. Lift out the bobbin, as shown. 1. Put your spool of thread onto spool pin, with the thread winding in the direction
shown.
2. Pull the clutch away from the machine to stop the needle from moving while you
winding the bobbin.
3. Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown.
4. Place the threaded bobbin on the bobbin winding spindle so that the thread comes
out on top.
5. Push the bobbin winder spindle to the right until it clicks.
6. Holding onto end of thread, depress the foot control.
7. When the bobbin is slightly filled, stop the machine and clip the thread coming from
the bobbin.
8. Slowly start the machine again and wind the thread until the bobbin stops.
9. Push the bobbin winder spindle to the left and clip the thread.
10. Remove the bobbin.
11. Push in the clutch for normal sewing operation.
13
Prepare the Bobbin (Continued)
*Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder
___ B
1. Put the bobbin into the bobbin 2. Pull about 10 cm of thread 3. Then pull the thread clockwise 4, Slide the bobbin cover plate while
holder so that the thread feeds toward you through the tension toward the back of the machine pushing it down slightly over the
counter-clockwise (left), slot .A through the slot .bobbin. Allow about 10 cm of
thread to show above the needle
plate.
14
Prepare Your Top Thread
* Thread Your Needle
1J,
36
Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you.
, :: Raise presser foot lever.
6
Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of the spool.
1. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.
2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the
check spring holder.
The numbered steps above follow the numbers 3. Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.
on the illustrations.
4. Draw thread down and slip it through the thread guide.
Dotted lines show places where the thread
loops and then is pulled tight.
5. Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide.
6. Thread needle from front to back.
NOTE: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.
15
Prepare Your Top Thread (Continued)
Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread
1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold 2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling 3. Pull both threads under and to the
needle thread loosely in left hand top thread, back of the presser foot, leaving
and rotate handwheel toward
10 to 15 cm of thread clear.
you one complete turn.
16
Adjust the Top Thread Tension
Choose the Correct Tension:
fop r.idn of fabri The best tension will depend on,
..
S.
.tir.
cark
the stiffness and thickness of the fabric
--- _ \_ the number of fabric layers
" .sor L ______r_____ the type of stitch
thread " t The top thread The too thread
is too n0ose is too tight
Too rideTosideh
of farfabric
For Straight Stitch
The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of The top thread The bobbin thread
fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail. appears on the appears on the
underside of the upper surface of the
If you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no fabric fabric,
gaps, that each stitch is smooth and even,
When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top
thread.t
Tension is too loose: Tension is too tight:
The top thread shows through the The bobbin thread will come through
bottom of the fabric, The bottom side the top of the fabric. The top side of
of the stitch will feel bumpy. the stitch will feel bumpy.
17
Stitch Selector
For Zigzag Stitch
In the correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on top of the
fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the under side. See below for j
the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust your top thread r uLj
tension. c cocos 0- 0
/~Stitch
Red
indicato
The stitch selector control determines the stitch you select.
Too Tight Too Loose Just Right Simply turn this control until the desired stitch is indicated by the red indicator
on the stitch indicator panel. The bottom row of stitches is selected when the
stitch length control is set at the stretch stitch position.
NOTE: To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure your needle is up and out of
fabric when selecting a stitch.
Stitch patterns are color-coded to recommend setting zones at the stitch length
control.
ZONES
NWp S ie cf F~ar,, Under Sick of F
2
Lbr; Topl Side of Pahr;:
* Pink ..........
. Straight,
Zigzag and Utility Stitches
Too Tight Too Loose * Blue ........... Built-in Buttonhole Making
- The points of the The top thread . Yellow ........ Stretch Stitches
zigzag will puIl wilt loop tfhoU'gh
together on top of the poitrs on the
tile stitch. bottom of the
stitch and W'I be
pulled almost
together
18
Stitch Width Control Stitch Length Control Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance
V Width V Length
01234511
0~
Stretch Stltch
The stitch width control regulates the The stitch length control regulates the In stretch stitch sewing, the stretch stitch
width of the stitch you select, length of stitch, and also has a stretch adjuster should usually be in a neutral
The higher the number, the wider the stitches setting.
positiOn (between -+" and "-... or
stitch.
The higher the number, the longer the
position). When sewing some fabrics, you
stitch.
may need to adjust this control to
tmeans no feed.
i
balance the stitches for appearance sake.
If design seems open like the illustrations
To select Stretch Stitches, set this to the left. adjust the control slightly
control at Stretch Stitch. Srnikirlg stretch toward "-" until design looks like the
NOTE: When you select built-in
center design.
buttonhole (blue), make sure If the design appears to be closed as in
that you do not set the stitch 4 , the right hand illustrations, turn the
lengh control at "Stretch control toward "+" until stitching is as
Stitch". you desire.
Study the pink, yellow
and blue sections around
Rickrack stretch
this control. These are
recommended zones of
stitch length and color-coded
to the stitches pictured on
the stitch indicator panel.
19
Reverse Stitch Control Starting To Sew
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine,
you are ready to start to sew with your sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you
Reverse
sit down to sew:
1 . Inspect the needle. It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point, It should be the correct size
for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new
fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers,
2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 10 cm
to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads during the sewing of the f irst 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.
3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use, The fabric should be double thickness, Adjust
the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to your fabric.
To reverse stitch, hold down this con- 4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and
trol during sewing. the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple
Release to sew forward again. seam.
5. Run the machine at a slow even speed, The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the
machine will sew,
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam,
7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way
that the normal feeding is altered.
9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.
20
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
Practical Stitch Chart
Stitch Needle Thread Stitch Stitch
Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach, Tension Length Width Uses Refer to Page
STRAIGHT Straight Check 2 6 Pink 0 Regular seams, zippers, topstitching, darning, 25 27,
Chart Zone etc. 40 41
I 642x, ~ onp.1L2
Darning Zipper
plate foot
STRAIGHT Straight Check 2 6 Yellow 0 Use on knits and other stretch fabrics, good 27
STRETCH Chart Stretch for topstitching.
on p.12 iStitch
oPosition
ZIGZAG Zigzag Check 3-8 Pink 1 -- 5 Finish edges, buttons, satin stitch, applique, 28-33
Chart Zone monogram, embroidery, sewing bar tacks,
on p, 12
RICK-RACK Zigzag i Check 2-6 Yellow 2 -5 Decorate garments with one row or several. 33
STRETCH Chart Stretch
on p. 12 Stitch
Position
BLIND HEM Zigzag Check 2-6 Pink 2- 3 Use for finishing seams. 36
STITCH Chart Zone
Ion p.
1 2
21
Practical Stitch Chart (Continued)
Stitch Thread Stitch Stitch
Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach. Needle Tension Length Width Uses Refer to Page
OVERCAST Zigzag Check 2 6 Yellow 3 - 5 Use for swimwear, ski pants and other 35
STRETCH Chart Stretch garments that require stretch.
on p. 12 Stitch
Position
THREE-STEP Zigzag Check 2 -6 0.5- 1 5 Use for finishing seams. 34
ZIGZAG
Chart
-on p. 12
SMOCKING Zigzag Check 2 6 i Yellow 3 - 5 Use in smocking or as a decorative stitch. 43
STITCH Chart
1
Stretch
Ion p. 12 Stitch
Position
SHELL Satin Check 4 -9 Pink 3- 5 Finish hems, sleeve and neck openings. 42
STITCH Chart i Zone Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to
on p.1 overcast and seanm.
i Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie.
SERGING Zigzag Blue (11) 3 6 Yellow 3 - 5 Finish hems, sleeve and neck openings. 35
on p. 12 Stretch Use on nylon tricot and other lingerie to
Stitch overcast and seam.
Position Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie.
22
Stitchion Thread Stitch Stitch
Stitch Stitch Foot and Other Attach. Needle Tension Length Width Uses Refer to Page
BOX Zigzag Check 3 S Pink 3- 5 Use for overlapping seams. 45
STITCHING Chart Zone
on p,12
ELASTIC Zigzag Check 3 -6 Yellow 3 - 5 Use for applying elastic. 45
STRETCH Chart Stretch
on p. 12 Stitch
<< Position
FAGOTING Zigzag Check 3 8 0.5 '-2 5 Join two folded edges for decorative 44
Chart open-work appearance.
on p. 12
STRETCH Zigzag Check 2 -6 Yellow 5 Use for patchwork quilting. 43
PATCHING Chart Stretch
on p. 12 Stitch
Position
TWO-POINT SHELL Zigzag Check 3 -'8 Pink 3 - 5 Do shell tucking on blouses and lingerie, 42
STITCHING Chart Zone This stitch can also be used as a single
on p. 12
overlock stitch as well.
L
rr
23
Practical Stitch Chart (Continued)
Stitch Stitch Fo ta d O h r ta h e deThread Stitch Stitch
Selection FoanOteAtah Nede Tension Length Width Uses Refer to Page
HERRING BONE Zigzag Check 2 -6 Yellow 3 -5 Use as hemming stitch for blankets, table- 44
STR ETCH Chart Stretch cloth and draperies.
on p. 12 Stitch
Position
BUTTONHOLE HButtonhole Check 2 -6 Blue Zone 3-S Buttonholes: also corded buttonholes. 38 -39
Chart
on p. 12
SATIN STITCH Satin Check 3 -8 0.5- 1 2-S Use for applique work, also as decorative 29
Chart finish for placemats, blankets, collars,
on p. 12 cuffs and pockets.
24
Straight Stitches
Straight Stitch Use the Seam Guides
Set the Machine
Stitch width
N
control 0
111
Cornering qurde
Top thread tension The seam guides on the needle plate
control 2 to 6 Stitch length are engraved to help you measure seam
\ control cink Before sewing with the straight stitch 7. At the beginning and end of width. The lines are 1/8" apart, with
zone foot, always set the stitch width seam, you may want to reverse to the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked.
--][4L7i , "
3
control to 0 to avoid breaking the lock the stitch.
'9/ *Turn a Square Corner
j63 needle. 8. Raise the presser foot and remove
o4 1. Raise the presser foot. the fabric.
2. Raise the needle to its highest 9. Cut the threads. <Cornerroy
Stretch Stitch position.,"
- 4 c de
H h3. Place the edge of the fabric next
H: Straight foot to a stitching guide line on the < --
needle plate (5/8" is most
NOTE: Best sewing results are common).
obtained with the straight 4. Draw the threads toward the back
stitch foot, but the zigzag andTo turn a square corner 5/8" from the
fotwl lo poie and lower the presser foot.
fabric edge:
foot will also provide
acceptable results. 5. Press the foot control. 1. Stop stitching and lower the
6. Hold the fabric loosely and gently
needle by turning hand wheel
guide it along the guide line, so toward you when the fabric edge
that it feeds naturally. facing you lines up with the
Do not force the fabric or try o
cornering guide, as shown.
pullit tight. 2, Raise the presser foot and turn
the fabric
to line the edge with
the 5/8 seam guide.
3. Lower the presser foot and begin
stitching in the new direction.
25
Straight Stitches (Continued)
Use the Darning Plate a Topstitching
Darning plate Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 0
Top thread tension Stitch length
control 2 to 6 control Pink
zone Here's How
Sometimes when you sew, you want to control the fabric yourself. L].Lwe h pesr ot
The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs so that they do not touch the fabric. 4 2. Keep the edge of the fabric next
To Put on the Darning Plate:
t Othergteg.o h rse
NOTE; The rectangular holes in the Darning Plate match the holes in the (
needle plate. In the darning plate. these holes are slightly to the Stretc Stitc 3. Evely duid te fabri along thiso
right of center,
edge. tops produce acn frmtevendrweo
1 . Position the darning plate with the pins on the bottom. H: Straight foot tptthn mfo h de
2. Fit the darning plate pins into the needle plate holes at the
5/8" mark. The feed dogs will show through the darning plate The Stitch and Its Uses
holes. Topstitching emphasizes the lines of
Use the darning plate in the following ways: your garment and keeps seams and
edges flat and crisp.
Darning (see page 27),
Button Sewing (see page 32). Accent suits or blouses with one or
two rows of topstitching around the
outer edges of cuffs, lapels or collars.
26
Darning Straight Stretch
Set the Machine Set the Machine
Stitch width Stitch width
control 0 control 0
1 1 2 34
Top thread
tension
control Stitch length Top thread tension Stitch length
2 to6 control any number control 2 to 6 control yellow
(rnot notestory to steth stitch
2 Here's How 2
4 (see page 26). 3 4
No presser
foot 2. Remove presser foot and foot holder
(see page 9), stretch fabric between
Stretch Stitch embroidery hoops with hole centered. F Stretch Stitch
3. Draw the bobbin thread up through theL._.
Stretch stitching was developed
Darning plate fabric by holding the top thread and taking H: Straight foot to be used on stretch fabrics and
knits. It can be used on other
one stitch at the spot where you wish to
The Stitch and Its Uses fabrics as well. It works well on
start darning. __
4. Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow This stitch is the stretch variation of curved seams and on any
pered. pthe
straight stitch, especially develop
-
garments that will receive a great
speed. ed for knits and stretch fabrics, deal of strain (ie. children's
5. Move the fabric back and forth slowly until clothes).
This stitch can also be used for
you have covered the darning area. Ti tthcnas
eue o
topstitching on all fabrics.
The stretch stitch does not
6. Turn the fabric half turn and sew another actually stretch as it is being
layer of stitching over the first layer. sewn, but is stitched in a
NOTE: If your fabric is thin or badly damaged,
forward and back motion
use a separate piece of fabric under the
(sometimes called a "reverse-
hole to reinforce it.
action" stitch), so that it will
give when the fabric stretches
7. When you finish darning, remove the darning instead of breaking.
plate and replace foot holder and foot.
27
Zigzag Stitches
Basic Zigzag
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 1 to 5
Top thread tension Stitch length
control 3 to 8 control pink
e 2
Here's How
There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch.
04 Consult the specific variations for detailed directions.
Satin Stitch page 29,
Stretch Stitch Applique Work page 30,
Bar Tacking page 30,
FMonogramming page 31.
A: Zigzag foot
Embroidery page 31,
Button Sewing page 32,
The Stitch and Its Uses Overcasting page 33.
The zigzag stitch is one of the most
common and most versatile stitches on
your machine. It can be a utility stitch
for sewing buttons, buttonholes, hem-
ming, overcasting, mending and darn-
ing. It can also be used to decorate
with trims, appliques and cut-out work
or as a decorative stitch.
28
Satin Stitch
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Stit
control 2 to 5
tp hread :3
tension
control 3 to 8 Stitch length
control 0,5 to I
IRK Stretch Stitch
F: Satin stitch foot2
Pressure
dial: I or
The Stitch and Its Uses
The Satin stitch is a versatile and often Here's How
used decorative stitch, but it can also
be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex- Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a fragment
ample, blankets, linens, tablecloths of the fabric you are planning to use. Too tight satin stitch may pucker some light
and napkins). weight fabrics.
The Satin stitch is especially attractive
in applique.
29
Zigzag Stitches (Continued)
Applique e Bar Tacking
control 2 to 5 control 2 to 5
Top thread tension
Stich length
Top thread tension
c ontro 0 o 1 con!ro 020to6 Stitch length _______
2 \2 control 0 5 To I
Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric is2 T-
3
This stitch is similar to a very short
L 3 joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. satin stitch and is used to reinforce
3 Stitch around the applique making .4 points of strain such as corners or
sure the needle falls along the outer pockets and straps on lingerie.
S titch edge of the applique.
* Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
F Satin stitch When sewing corners, lower the needle Stretch Stitch
foot down into the fabric. Raise the presser
foot and pivot the fabric to the right
A Zigzag foot
Pressure dial: 2 or left.
30
Monogramming * Embroidery
Stitch width I Stitch width
control 5 control Ito 5
IHAi i3
Top thread tension Top thread tension Stitch length control
control 2 to6 Stitch length control2 T 6 Anv r io lr ...
control 0 5 to 1 ....... r ry tt >djut Here's How
3
0
Here'sHow - 1. Put the darning plate on the needle
tL4T i 1. Set the same as satin stitch. iii plate (see page 26).
i4
4 --
2. Back the fabric with paper or 2. Remove foot holder (see page 9).
interfacing. Nopresser 3. Adjust the stitch width as desired
Stretch Stitch 3. Draw the letters on the fabric foot Stretch Stitch (see page 19).
with tailor's chalk. 4. Draw the design on to the fabric
F: Satin stitch 4. Satin stitch, adjusting the stitch with tailor's chalk. fot idh s or echDarning plate %>s
"
foot width as necessary to form each 5. Stretch the fabric between embroi-
pattern. dery hoops and place under the
5. If using paper, carefully remove it needle.
when you have finished sewing.
6. Lower the presser foot lever to
engage the top thread tension.
7. Holding the top thread in your left
hand, rotate the hand wheel toward
you one complete turn.
Pull the top thread to draw the
bobbin thread through to the surface
of the fabric.
8. Using a medium speed, stitch along
the marked outline, guiding the
fabric carefully by hand.
31
*Sew a Button
Set the Machine
Stitch width control
Must be adjusted
Top thread tension
control 2 toG6
Stitch length control ------
Any number lnott
S necessary to adjust)J
4." N Use the darning plate for button sewing (see page 26). To strengthen the shank, cut the
\ 3 1. Match the center of the button holes to the center of the slot on the presser threads leaving a 20 cm tail. Bring the
4 foot- needle thread down through the hole
2. Adjust the stitch width so that needle will drop in each hole. sn hank to.n wn i run h
FM Stretch Stitch 3. Lower the foot to hold the button in place. Da h hedt h otmsd
A: igzg fotTurn the hand wheel by hand so that needle will enter either hole of the and knot.
Dar
button.
Darin plte4. Stitch several times,
32
Overcasting Stitch e Rick-Rack Stretch
controlS3 to 5 control 2 to 5
Top thread tension Top thread tension
control 3 to 8 Stitch length control 2 to 6 S l
control pink
Stitcht length
6 0t nk control Yellow
-- - -- - - S tret&h stitch
H-tiHelpful Hints
H u H postion The Stitch and Its Uses
Start overcasting about 0.3 cm inside Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that
4 the raw corner of your seam. If you L3- you might use a zigzag stitch.
start right at the edge, the fabric will 4 This stitch can be used as a decorative
bunch up and the stitches will become top stitch as well.
Stretch Stitch tangled.
Lr SS Stretch Stitch
A Zigzag foot A: Zigzag foot
This zigzag variation is very useful in
garment construction and in finishing
raw edges of any sewing project.
33
9Three-Step Zigzag
Set the Machine
Stitch width -
control 5-
4 0
Top thread tension
control 0.5 to I
2Seam Finishing (Overcasting) Mending
Place the fabric under the presser foot Position the tear under the needle so
Stec 4 sothat the edge will be slightly inside that the stitching will catch both sides.
teright hand side of the presser foot.
SrthStitch Guide the work so the right hand
F T-R,::stitches
tall at the edge of the fabric.
A: Zigzag foot
The three-step zigzag is a combination
zigzag and straight stitch. You may use
the three-step zigzag everywhere you
would use the basic zigzag stitch. It
has more strength, elasticity, and is
flatter than a regular zigzag.
The three-step zigzag stitch is especial-
ly useful for:
- mending
-sewing patches smoothly and
securely.
- repairing straight tears.
- finishing seams,
34
* Overcast Stretch Stitching * Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching
Sel the Machine Set the Machine
control 3 to 5 control 3 tob5
1 2 34
control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 3 to 6 Stitch length
control yellow control yellow
stretch stitCh sttretch stitch
Position Here's How positior Here's How
"'N
3
Place the raw edge of the fabric to 1- o '"" Place the fabric under the presser
the LEFT of the needle as shown. foot so that the stitches are made
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric
over the edge.
just short of the outside edge.
Stretch Stitch Or, place your fabric to allow a Stretch Stitch NOTE: When using stretch knit
1.5 cm seam, then trim seam fabric, use a blue stretch
A: Zigzag foot allowance after. A: Zigzag foot fabric needle which
Raw or worn edges of older garments
effectively prevents
The Stitch and Its Uses can be overcast to prevent further The Stitch and Its Uses skipped stitches.
This stitch can be used for sewing a raveling. Use this stitch when you want a
seam with an overcast finish, NOTE: Use a blue stretch fabric narrow seam that you do not need to
The seam is formed and finished in needle, which effectively press open flat. It is ideal for 0.6 cm
one operation. It can be used when prevents skipped stitches, seams on knits or on medium to
you are making swimwear, ski pants heavyweight woven fabrics where you
and other garments that require want a narrow seam. It is also great
stretch for making elastic swim wear.
35
Blind Hemming
Set the Machine
Stitch width
control 2 to 3 0f4 to 0.7 cm
Bottom
side
of fabric
WeIgh
Top thread tension tr
control 2 0o 6 Stitch length
control pink
zone,2ev
o Fabric
1. Finish the raw edge of your hem any way you desire. (see overcasting page 33).
Stretch Stitch 2. Measure, turn up your hem and pin.
{M c NOTE: For light weight fabrics, you may need a double fold.
A; Zigzag foot 3. Fold the material (bottom side out) on the edge to be stitched, as shown, leaving 0.4 to 0.7 cm of the finished hem
edge showing.
4. Place garment under presser foot in such a manner that straight stitches will be sewn on extended edge. The zigzag
stitch should just catch the fold of the garment.
5. After hemming, press both sides of the finished hem. The top side of the garment will show only the blind stitches.
36
Lace Work
Set the Machine N
Stitch width
control 2 1,: 3
Top thread tension
control I
>4Ar
Stretch Stitch
Lace adds a fanciful, feminine touch
A. Zigzag toot
to blouses and lingerie. Table linens
and pillows become more elegant
when trimmed with lace.
Turn raw edge of fabric under at least
1.5 cm. Place lace underneath and
topstitch using stretch blind hem
stitch.
Trim excess fabric close to stitching.
37
Buttonhole Making
Set the Machine
n1
Stitch width
control 3 to 5
JPi
234 C>> J
" "A"
Stitch length
A
control
Blue ZroeP=
0 ,2 1. a. Carefully mark the buttonhole 2. a. Move the slider (A) toward you 3. a. Set the stitch selector at E
length on your garment, so that the top mark (C) on the b. Sew forward until you reach the
4i b. Change to the sliding buttonhole slider meets the start mark (B). front marking of your button.
foot. br Line up the markings on the hole.
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6 fo ihtetpmr nyu
Stretch Stitch c. Insert the garment under the foot with the top mark on your c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
F foot with the buttonhole mark garment.
Sliding buttonhole foot
A4 ing running toward you. c. Lower the presser foot.
3
NOTE: The markings on the slider
are engraved in centimeters.
Adjusting the Stitch Density
Depending upon your fabric or your
own preference in buttonholes, you 1)
may alter the buttonhole stitch
density within the blue buttonhole r
range on the stitch length dial. ,
1. For less density, turn the dial
toward "1", r .
2. For more density, turn the dial 3 ,
toward "0".
NOTE: Always make a practice but- 4
tonhole on a scrap fabric you
plan to use to find the more
suitable stitch length.
Stretch Stltch
38
Do
4. a. Set the stioch selector at 5. a. Set the stitch selector at j 6. a. Set the stitch selector at 7, Remove the fabric and cut the
b, Sew 4 to 6 stitches, b. Sew until you reach the back of b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches, hole open with the buttonhole
opener in your accessory storage
c. Stop sewing at the ight stitch, the buttonhole cc Stop sewing at the left stitch, box.
c. Stop sewing at the right stitch,
NOTE
When sewing at the edge of fabric, set
sliding buttonhole foot as illustrated
and sew in reverse I3
39
Sew in a Zipper
Fabric Preparation:
Set the Machine
Put the top sides of the fabric together Stitch width 0.2 to 0.3 con te
and sew to the end of the zipper control 0
opening. Use the reverse to lock the
stitches.
Sew the zipper opening with stitch
length at "4" and top thread tension Bhottrnp
at -3".
side of
Top thread tension fabric
control 2 to 6Botmsd
Stitch length
j o-abi
s control 2
- ~~Ldofoenn To Sew: 4. Attach the presser bar to the right
~~~~7~~ N . Reset stitch length at 2 and top pn ntezpe ot
Kthread tension at 2 to 6. 5. Lower the zipper foot on the top
Top side KFold back the left seam allowance side at the bottom of the zipper
of farc- as shown, so that the needle pierces the fold
StechSith2. Turn under the right seam allow- and the zipper tape.
ance to form a 0.2 to 0.3 cm fold. 6. Sew through the fold and the
Top edge of fabric E: Zipper zipper tape to the point where the
foot
3. Place the zipper teeth next to the sie eis
0.2 to 0.3 cm fold and pin in sie eis
To attach the zipper foot: place. 7. Lower the needle to hold the
fabric and raise the presser foot.
* To sew on the left side of the zipper,
attach the presser bar to the right pins
on the zipper foot.
on the* To sew on the right side of the zipper.
no sde 0 attach the presser bar to the left pins
a-. on the zipper foot.
40
1 op side
Slde oft fAhr V
I HottomT ieTu side Top side Top side
offbr ic of fabri IX ffbi of fabric
8. Open the zipper. 10. Close the zipper and turn the 11. Remove the zipper foot and 14. Stop about 5 cm from the top of
9. Lower the presser foot and stitch fabric top side up. attach the presser bar to the left the zipper,
the rest of the seam, pins on the zipper foot. 15. Lower the needle into the fabric
12. Stitch across and below the hot- and raise the presser foot.
torn of the zipper. 16. Remove the basting stitches and
13. Turn the corner and continue to open the zipper.
guide the foot along the zipper 17. Lower the foot and stitch the rest
teeth, as shown,
of the seam. Make sure the fold is
Stitch through the fabric and evn
zipper tape,
41
Shell Stitching Two-Point Shell Stitching
Stitch width
Stitch width
4
1 2 3
zone Here's How cone This stitch can also be used as a
6 tOZ1.
Forbesteffect:
2 single overlock stitch as well.
- set the stitch length as you
114A4 desire.
- you may need to tighten the
top thread tension slightly.
Stretch Stitch - allow the needle to just l Stretch Stitch
F: Satin stitch clear the folded edge of the
foot fabric when it zigzags. A: Zigzag foot
2. If you sew rows of shell stitches,
The Stitch and Its Uses space the rows 1.5 cm apart.
The Shell Stitch is formed by sewing a You can sew Shell Stitch on knits or
blind hem over folded fabric. Several soft silky wovens in any direction.
rows of shell stitching are called shell
tucks.
Shell stitching can be used to finish
hems, sleeve and neck openings.
Shell tucking can be used to create
scalloped tucks on blouses and
lingerie.
42
Smocking Stretch Patching
Stitch, width Stitch width
control 3 to 5 X cncontrol 5
50,4!)f
Top thread tension op ad Stitch length control
control 2 to 6 Stitch length control o2 yohlo sttc le h stitro
scretch stitch rcosition p o s t ho 20o s t i
2
2
3 The Stitch and Its Uses
For
patching
worn
out
elbows
or
3
knees.
4
[7 - Stretch Stitch
FF_____ Stec Stch I F-V
A: Zigzag foot A Zigzag foot
With the stitch length at "4", sew
straight stitching lines 1 cm apart
across the area to be smocked.
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull
the bobbin threads and distribute the
gathers evenly. Secure the threads at
the other end. Sew the decorative
stitch between the gathering stitches.
Pull out the gathering stitches,
NOTE: Loosen the top thread
tension to make gathering
easier.
43
Fagoting Stitch
Herring Bone Stretch
Set the Machine
Set the Machine
Stitch width
Stitch width
control 5 Z
control 3 to 5
0 1 0
I I
12 ~I I
Top thread tension - Top thread tension
control 0.5 to 2 control yelentow

stretch stitch
[6
1
Here's How5
Here's How
Nal 1. Fol une ac arc de
4
K )
3
Place the fabric top side up, and sew
1.5 cm and press. 3 1 cm from the edge.
2. Pin the two edges to paper or
Trim close to stitching. The stitch will
Stretch Stitch tear-away backing 0.2 to 0.3 cm
prevent raveling.
F apart. R Stretch Stitch
3. Sew slowly, guiding the fabric so
the needle catches the folded
edge on each side.
Use this stitch to join two pieces of
Use as hemming stitch for blankets,
fabric to create an open work
tablecloth and draperies.
appearance and add design interest,
44
Elastic Stretch Stitch Box Stitching
1234
234
control yellow control pink
stretch stitch zone
posilion no 2 Use this stitch to join heavy weight
3 4 Overlap two raw edges together and
C DSrth tth > interlining.
_use
this stitch to join them.
Stretch Stitch
A: Zigzag foot A: Zigzag foot
Choose this stitch to attach elastic to
garments.
1. Mark the elastic into quarters and
match these to the center front,
center back and side seams.
2. Place the middle of the elastic
under the center of the presser
foot and stitch into place, making
sure the elastic is evenly distri-
buted.
45
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Improper threading. Rethread machine.
Loose upper thread tension. Tighten upper thread tension.
Irregular Stitches Pulling fabric. Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Loose presser foot. Reset presser foot.
Unevenly wound bobbin. Rewind bobbin.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Pulling fabric, Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Breaking Needle Incorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Incorrect setting of needle. Reset needle,
Upper and lower threads not drawn back When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and
Bunching of Thread under presser foot before starting seam. back of presser foot about 10 cm and hold until a few stitches
are formed.
Incorrect thread tension. Reset thread tension.
Using two different sizes or kinds of thread. Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size anid kind.
Puckering Bent or blunt needle. Insert new needle.
Fabric too sheer or too soft. Use underlay of tissue paper.
46
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Incorrect size needle, Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
SipnStthsBent or blunt needle. Insert new needle.
SipnStthsIncorrect setting of needle. Reset needle.
Tight upper thread tension, Loosen upper thread tension,
- -- - -- ---- ---- ---
Starting to stitch too fast. Start to stitch at a medium speed,
Improper threading. Rethread machine.
Brekin UperThradTight upper thread tension,. Loosen upper thread tension,
Brekig ppr hradIncorrect size needle. Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Sharp eve in needle. Insert new needle.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Replace needle plate, mi polish off burrs completely.
Breaking Bobbin Thread Improper bobbin threading. Check bobbin threading.
Lint in bobbin holder or hook race. .Clean bobbin holder and hook race,
Darning plate in place.
Remove darning plate.
Fabrc nt Mvin Sttch engh st a oAdjust Stitch Length Control.
FarcntMvntithrLeaknotted uner a abric Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning
Push-pull clutch is disengaged.
to stitch,
Push in the clutch.
Machine Jamming Knocking Noise Thread caught in hook race. Disassemble and clean hook race.
Lint in bobbin holder or hook race. Clean bobbin holder and hook race.
47
SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Replace the Light Bulb Clean the Bobbin Holder
To insure that your machine operates at its best, you need to keep the
essential parts clean at all times.
The bobbin area can attract dust and lint. Your machine can become sluggish
or knock loudly if a thread is caught.
1 . Unplug the machine and open the
face cover.
CAUTION' The lght bulb will he4,..
H OT. Protect your Bbi
fngers when you cvrp.lt
---
handle it. Follow these directions: 4. Brush or vacuum the dust and lint 6. Slide on the bobbin cover plate by
2,Ps h ubu n unte 1. Turn off the power or unplug the out of the bobbin holder, pushing it into the grooves.
bulb counter-clockwise to remove machine. 5. Replace the bobbin.
ltt 2. Remove the bobbin cover plate by
3. Put the new bulb in by pushing it firmly pulling it toward you.
up and turning it clockwise. 3. Remove the bobbin.
48
SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs Oiling the Machine
Open face cover plate and oil points as shown below at least once a year. One or
two drops of oil is sufficient.
Remove excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabrics.
1.Unplug the machine and remove 5. Take out the bobbin. Lift up the
the presser foot and needle, bobbin holder and remove it.
2. Remove the bobbin cover plate.
3. Remove the screw on the left side 7
of the needle with the large screw
driver.
4. Remove the needle plate.
In case machine is not used for an
extended time, oil it before sewing.
Use good quality sewing machine oil.
No other oiling is required
Above points are only area which
- require oiling on this machine.
6. Use the lint brush to clean the 7. Line up the triangle marks and
feed dogs, hook race and bobbin position the bobbin holder so
holder. Also use a soft, dry that the notch fits next to the
cloth, stopper in the hook race.
Printed in Taiwan
49
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