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ShopNotes No.99
Gutaway View
& Specs
KEY DIMENgIONg
gHOWN
Ordinary steel
bar stock, a
propane
torch,
and a few hours
are all
you
need
to created a
handy layout tool.
"Eye-catching/' was the first word
I thought of to describe these
scratch an'ls. The hardwood han-
dles look and feel great. But it's the
twisted and detailed shafts that
really grab your attention. The
nice thing is, each one only takes a
small amountof time and material
to make. So adding one to your
shop for everyday tasks like mark-
ing, layout, or even starting screw
holes is great idea.
You can see in the drawings at
right how they go together. What
you're probably wondering is
how the twists are created. There's
more detail on that process later.
But all it involves is taking a short
length of steel bar stock, heating
it with a propane torch, and then
Sving
the shaft a little twist.
After the twists are formed, you
can change the lookby filing them
down flush with the bar stock. Or
start with some hex stock and after
completing the twist, add a nar-
row kerf at each end with a hack
saw. The choice is all yours.
Finally, complete the awl with
a comfortably shaped, hardwood
handle and a solid-brass ferrule.
In the end, you'll have a handy
layout tool that's sure to catch
the attention of everyone who
comes into your shop.
www.ShopNotes.com
NOTE: eul HANDLES
gTART
our A9 EXTRA-LoNG woRKprEcEg.
AFTER INITIAL 9HAPIN6, THEY ARE CUT TO LENGTH FOR FINAL SHAPING
NOIE: nLL sHnrr
HOLES ARE11a" OEE?
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FER,RULES -
ARE MADE FROM
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6R499 910CK
HEX
HANDLE
I
NO[E: elu eHAFrs
ARE 7' LONG
A PAIR OF
gIMPLE
THREE-OUARTER
TWIgTg CREATE
A REAT LOOK
A FI LE AND JI 6 MAKE
AUICK T{ORK OF ERIN6IN6
THE 9HAFT TO A POINT
(REFER TO TAOE 25)
TAPERED
gAo
HANDLE
FtvE-9txIHg 0F A
TWgT AND A PAIR OF
KER,Fg HIGHLIGHTTHE
LOOK OF THIg
gHAFT
RIDGES ARE REMOVED
WITH A FILE FOR,
A CLEANER LOOK
(TW|6T LOCATTONg
ARE IDENTICAL)
\
\
\
L DoubleTwist.Two
simple twists turn
an ordinary piece of
square steel into a
unique awl.
L Streamlined. File
the ridges of each
twist flat and the awl
takes on a completely
different look.
L SingleTwist.A
single twist in a piece of
hex stock gives this awl
a refined, classic look.
35
start with the
Twist
The shafts of the scratch awls you
see in the margin here and on the
opposite page start out as ordinary
steel bar stock, like the examples at
the upper right. The twisted shaft
is what gives them their unique
look. The nice thing is the entire
process is really quite simple.
An ordinary propane torch
takes care of heating the stock
prior to twisting. Note: If you have
access to MAPP gas and a swirl-
flame tip, you'll find the overall
process goes more quickly.
TAYOUT & SETUP
The first step in making the shaft
is a little layout work. The thing to
keep in mind here is not to get too
concemed about locating the twists
exactly. Note: For other options, see
the box on the opposite page.
The heating and twisting
process isn't an exact science,
so I practiced on some scrap
stock to get a feel for it. Plus, I
started by cutting the shaft extra-
long (about 4" overall). This way,
I could lay out the twists in the
"center." Once they're complete,
it's a simple matter to trim each
end of the shaft, "positioning"
the twists in the right spots.
With the layout work done,
clamp the shaft in your vise sand-
wiched between a couple scrap
blocks. This accomplishes two
things. First, you won't have to
worryr about marring the shaft
with the jaws of the vise. And sec-
ond, the wood blocks insulate the
shaft and keep the jaws from act-
ing as a heat sink and "pulling"
the heat out of the shaft.
GREATITIG THE TWIST
The next step is to heat the shaft
so you can add the twist. The
goal here is to concentrate heat
in the area of the twist.
To ensure an even twist, I found
it best to work the flame back
and forth along the L" area of the
L Doing theTwist. A tap wrench
makes it easy to add the three-
quarter
twist to the shaft.
I Sfeel Stock. Ordinary steel
bar stock is all you'll need to
make the shaft of a scratch awl.
twist I laid out. With the MAPP
gas and tip I used, it only took a
minute or so to heat up the area.
If you're using standard propane,
it shouldn't add much more than
another minute or so. The heated
area will look like the lower left
photo when it's ready to twist.
At this point, set aside your
torch and slip a tap wrench (or
adjustable wrench) over the shaft
and give it three-quarters of a tum.
(I tumed clockwise.) This should
result in a smooth, even twist, as
in the center photo below.
Chances are the twistingmotion
may bend the shaft slightly. If that's
the case, you can straighten it out
by tapping it with a hammer on a
solid surface. Then simply repeat
L Doubling Up.To add a second
twist to the shaft, simply repeat
the
process
at another spol
36
ShopNotes No.99
the process to add a second twist
to the shaft (lower right photo on
the opposite page). Finally, cut the
shaft to length, trimming off each
end as necessary.
AIIOII{G DETAITS
I{ith the twists complete, you can
tum your attention to the final
shaping. Here, patience is key.
The first step is to shape the
upper end that will fitinto thehan-
dle. The goal here is to round the
end as in the upper right photo. I
drilled a hole in a scrap block the
same size as the hole for the han-
dle to test the fit as I worked.
Creating the Point. Onceyou've
rounded the top, the next step is to
shape a point on the other end. To
do this, I used a file and a tapered
guide. You can find more about
the guide and how to bring the
shaft to a point by tuming to Shop
Short Cuts on page 23.
< Shaping.
To fit the shaft
to the handle
fater, knock off
the corners of
the bar. Aim to
round the shaft
consistently.
< Gettothe
Point. At the
opposite end,
taper each flat
untilthe shaft
comes to a
sharp point.
Opti onal Desi gns
The basic twist described above is
just the start. The margin at right
shows a couple options toconsider
for a more distinctive look.
Filing Flat. For starters, you can
change the look of the twists on the
basic awl with a little filing (upper
photo at righQ. A few passes is all
it takes to remove the ridges of the
twist. This brings them flush with
the faces of the shaft, resulting in a
more streamlined look, as you can
see in the right margin photo.
Going with a Hex. Instead of
making a shaft from square bar
stocl you may find that using a
hex-shaped shaft provides a look
more to your liking. For the shaft
shown in the photo at righf I put
in a single fwist (five-sixths of a
tum) after heating the rod.
To set off the twist, I used a hack
saw to cut a pair of kerfs around
the shaft above and below the
twist (inset photo at right). Note:
The handle end of the hex shaft
doesn't require rounding.
www.ShopNotes.com
> Flattening.
An easy change
to the look of the
shaft is to file the
ridges of each
twist flat.
> The Hex Shaft. lf you use hex
stock, afive-sixths twist creates a
great look. The heating and twist-
ing process is the same.
f Detlning the Ends. To set off
the twist on the hex shaft, use a
hack saw to cut shallow kerfs at
the top and bottom of the twist.
creating a
Handle
\{ith the shaft complete, most
of the hard work is done. Now
you're ready to add the femrle and
handle. Here again, you're going
to have to do a little shaping and
detail work. The step-by-step pro-
cess detailed here and in the box
on the oppositepage willhelp you
get
$eat
results, no matter which
handle design you choose.
Handle Shape. The first deci-
sion you'll need to make is whidr
handle shape to go with. I think it
looks best to match the handle to
the shape of the shaft. So you'll
find two different handles for the
square shafts at the upper right.
If the hex handle is more to your
liking, you'll find some additional
information in the box below to
help you through the process.
Of course, you can make some-
thing entirely different. Since none
of the handles requires much in
> RoughShape.
Use a band saw
to rough out the
drilled end of
the handle,
staying
just
outside the
layout lines.
> Final Sanding.
A large-diameter
sanding drum
makes quick
work of bringing
the handle to
finalshape.
materials or time to make, it's a
great chance to experiment and
use a piece of exotic or highly fig-
ured wood you've been saving.
Extra-Long Blank. To work
safely, it's best to start with an
extra-long blank (8'). This way,
you can do most of the shaping
without having to worryr about
your hands coming too close to a
saw blade or a sanding drum.
Once you have the blank sized,
take a trip to the drill press and
drill a centered hole in the end
for the shaft, as you can see in the
lower left photo.
The next step for either of the
square handles is to shape the end
of the blank. A band saw makes
quick work of removing the bulk
of the waste for either one (top
right photo below).
Then you can use some self-
adhesive sandpaper on your
benchtop to sand the flat tapers
or use a large sanding drum to
smooth out the curved edges, as
shown in the lower right photo.
Creating the Fermles. At this
point you can trim the handle to
final length (but don't do any final
shaping just yet) and set it aside
while you work on the femrle.
The femrle for each square handle
is nothing more than a small piece
of 7ro'-thick brass stock.
(
\r'
Tapered
\.,
38 ShopNotes No.99
Lr the photo at the far right, you
can see how I laid out a slightly
oversized piece and then drilled
a centered hole for the shaft. After
drilling the hole, use a hack saw to
cut the femile free.
Assembly. \,Vith the fem.rle and
shaft in hand, ifs time for assernbly
The process here is simple, as in the
photo at right. Ifs just
a matter of
using some thick-set,
ryanoaoylate
(CA) glue (or epoxy) between the
end of thehandleandfemrle as well
as inthehole for the shaft.
Final Shaping. Once the adhe'
sive has set, all that's left to do is
some final shaping on the handle
and ferrule. Some files and sand-
paper are all you need here. 6
v
L Ferrule First.
On an oversized
piece of brass, lay
out the ferrule and
then drilla centered
hole. Finally, cut the
ferrule free (inset).
L Add the Ferrule and Shaft.To lock the ferrule and
shaft in place, use thick-set CA glue (or epoxy) on
the end of the handle and in the hole for the shaft.
Shapi n the Hex H
\taking a handle to match the
shape of the hex shaft starts with
an extra-long, rectangular blank.
You'll need to drill a slightly larger
shaft hole in the center (refer to
page 35 for both blank and hole
size). Then to create the hex shape,
tiltyour sawblade to 30'and knock
off the comers (left photo below).
Wittr that complete, you're
ready to shape the handle. To get
a good idea of where to make the
angled cuts, shape the femrle fust
(tum to Shop Short Cuts on page
23 for more info). Then you cul
slip it over the shaft and slip the
shaft into the handle. After tracing
around the outside (center photo),
rough cut the angles with a hand
saw (right photo).
For the final shaping,I used some
self-adhesive sandpaper on a flat
sur f ace,
checki ng
the shape
as I worked.
Finally, tim
the handle to
length and then glue the femrle
and shaft in place. A little sanding
makes quick work of bringing the
femrle and handle flustr, duplicat-
ing the handle shown above.
L HexShape.
Duplicating the
hex shape of the
shaft gives this
handle a comple-
mentary look and
a comfortable feel.
L Cutto Shape. Starting with an extra-long rectan-
gular blank drilled for the shaft, trim the corners to
create a perfectly
symmetrical hex shape.
www.ShopNotes.com
L Lay Out Taper. To locate the
cuts for the taper, use the ferrule
to trace the layout lines.
L Final Shaptng. Remove the
waste with a hand saw, then sand
each side flat and smooth.
39
With some simple tools ACTUAL 5IZE
and a little time,
you
can el
r*
build a complete set of
quality
layout tools.
As I was sholling through the shop, I noticed
one of our designers, Chris Fitch, busily filing
and drilling some steel. It's not unusual to find
Chris tinkering and what he came up with this
time was a set of layout tools. They got a lot of
attention and I knew I had to build a set.
The main reason they're so popular is that
they're so easy to make. All it takes is some
basic tools you probably already have: a hack-
saw, a few files, and a drill press. Cutting, fil-
ing, and drilling the steel blanks isn't a big deal.
And some final polishing with sandpaper gives
them a nice, satin finish.
But there's more going on here. And that's
how to cormect the two legs so they hold their
set position for measuring and layout. Some
traditional tools use a threaded rod with a
knurled nut for adjustment. Others use a sim-
ple wingnut to tighten the legs of the tool.
Instead, Chris used a simple, but effective
technique: a friction joint. A pair of disc springs
and a simple brass rivet apply just the right
amount of pressure to keep the legs from slip-
ping. It works beautifully. Read on to find out
how to make your own set of layout tools.
)v,i-
OIVIDERLEA
DRILL ANP TAP FOR
o-3zIHREAO5
IN9IDE
CALI?ERLEG
OUT1IDE
CALIPER LEO
(a3l4LLONG BLANK)
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ON COMPA5SLEG
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COMTA51 LEG
(67+qLON FLANK)
NOTE: t-oNo
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gAME
A5 DIVIDERLEG
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Leg
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To download 3-D models
6M";;*;*;;"
A Divider Legs (2)
B Long Compass Leg (1)
C Short Compass Leg (1)
D lnside Caliper Legs (2)
E Outside Caliper Legs (2)
Required for Each Tool:
. (1)%z" x 2" - 18" rgh. Grade l0l8 Steet
. (1)h l.D.xVa" O.D. Brass Washer*
. (1) Za"-d;6. x
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Fh Rivet
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Materials & Hardware
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(2) .265' LD. x .687" O.D. x .052"-thick Disc Springs
.
(l) 8-32 x Zr" Thumb Screw
*
Washer cut from .O2O'Lthick brass sheet
ShopNotes.com
(a74'LLONO ELANK)
(67zqLONG ELANK)
t7
making a basic
Leg
The set of layout tools consists of
an inside calipers, an outside cali-
pers, a compass, and a set of divid-
ers. Since the legs of the dividers
are the easiest to make, it's a great
way to leam the basic techniques
that apply to each of the tools. I'll
point out any differences as I go
along, but each one starts with a
mild steel blank.
A Little About Steel. \tVhen
purchasing the steel (Grade 1018)
to use for the layout tools, I chose
precision-ground stock that was 2"
wide and 7sz" thick. This thickness
just "feels right"
-
not too heavy
and clunky, yet not too flimsy.
L Layout is Key. Use layout dye
then scribe accurate lines. Mark
all hole centers with a center
punch before drilling (inset).
L Drilling. A few drops of oil
will keep the bit cool. Follow up
with a slight chamfer using a
countersink (inset).
1B
The precision-ground stock is just
a few dollars more than raw stock,
but it means less filing and sand-
ing to get a smooth surface. And
I'm willing to pay a little more to
eliminate all that extra work. You
can find out where to buy the steel
and all the other supplies I used in
Sources on page 51.
Layout. The key to working
with metal is an accurate layout. To
accomplish this goal, I used blue
layout dye to color one face of the
steel blank (upper photos at left).
The dye provides a nice contrast
for the layout lines you scratch in
with a shalp scribe. This leaves
you with clean, crisp lines to work
to when drilling and shaping.
Centerline Reference. The first
mark I made on the blank was the
L Cutting to Shape. Use a
sharp hacksaw blade to cut the
legs free. Jaw liners protect the
workpiece from marks.
3/c"'DlA,
10?
gLANK
(5b2" x2" - bl+")
NOTE: eeren ro ?AoE17 FoR
HOLE PIMEN9IONS AND LOCATION9
width of each leg at the bottom
measured from each factory edge,
as shown in Figure 1. This way,
you'll only need to cut and shape
one side of each leg.
The next important measure-
ment is the centerpoint of the pivot
hole at the top of each leg. With this
located, you can draw a centerline
for the leg and the top radius. Then
lay out the centers of all the holes
and draw the other side of the leg.
I used a center punch to mark the
hole centers (left margin photo).
Drill & Countersink. It's time
to head to the drill press to drill all
the holes and create a decorative
chamfer (lower left photos). The
chamfered holes give the toois a
high-tech, modern look.
There are a couple of things
worth mentioning here. For safety,
make sure the workpiece is against
a fence clamped to the drill press
table. Another tip is to have a small
bottle of light oil handy. (I like to
use 3-in-1 oil.) This helps lubricate
the drill bit as you're drilling and
minimizes heat buildup. Other
than that, it's a simple matter of
drilling a hole in each leg then
switching bits for each size hole.
After all the holes are drilled,
I switched out the drill bit for a
small countersink, as shown in the
left margin. It not only creates an
eye-catching chamfer on all the
holes, but removes any burrs on
the pivot hole that might interfere
with smooth operation. The goal
is to make all the chamfers a con-
sistent width.
]ust
remember to
chamfer the holes on both sides of
the blank before moving on.
DIVIDER
LEG
DIYIDERg
Vzz" CHAMFER
ON ALL HOLE9,
60TH 5tOE3
ShopNotes No. 105
'\
r't
A, Filing to Shape. The layout lines serve as a reference
when filing the legs to shape. Use the full length of the file
to create a straight, smooth edge.
A Satrn Finish. For a smooth, satin ftnish,
use 220-grit sandpaper. A rivet works as a
"handle"
to grip the workpiece.
A Hacksaw Workout. I'm not
going to kid you
-
cutting the legs
free from the blank will take a little
muscle. But it goes fairly quickly.
Before you clamp the blank in
your machinist's vise, it's a good
idea to line the jaws. This protects
the workpiece from the dimpled
pattem on the jaw faces. You can
use conunercial liners, like you see
in the photo at above. Or you could
L Filing Pornfs. Start with a
coarse file to shape the points
of the dividers. Follow up with a
smooth file and sandpaper.
L Shop-Made Washer. A hole
saw creates a perfectly stzed
brass washer. Sand both sides
and all edges to remove burrs.
ShopNotes.com
use aluminum or brass sheets and
cut them to wrap around the jaws.
File Until Smooth. After the
legs are cut free from the blank,
there's a little more effort required
for final shaping. Use a coarse file
to start with and work to the lay-
out line (upper left photo). And
while you're at it, you can file the
sharp point on each leg, as shown
in the photo below. You can finish
up the edges with a smooth file.
For final polishing, I used adhe-
sive-backed 220-grit sandpaper
fastened to a piece of vof. Take
some time to sand all the straight
edges and the rounded end. A
brass rivet makes a nice "handle"
for smoothing each face, as you
can see in the upper right photo.
Brass Washer. To keep the
legs of the dividers from rubbing
against each other during use, I
separated them with a thin, brass
washer. A5/a"-dia. hole saw is the
perfect size to cut the washer from
a brass sheet (left photo below).
Assembly. You're almost
ready to assemble the dividers.
L Mushroomed Rivet. Light,
angled taps are all it takes to
peen the rivet. Check frequently
for the right amount of friction.
When assembling the disc springs,
brass washer, and two legs (Figure
2), you'll want the rivet to extend
about 7e" beyond. This gives you
just enough material to peen over
the end of the rivet. The problem
is the brass rivet I used was a little
long. So I ground aboutl/e" off the
length before moving on.
The only trick to assembling
the dividers is the orientation of
the cone-shaped disc springs. The
smaller end of each cone should
face away from the legs.
Now peen over the end of the
rivet with light, angled taps all
around (right photo below). Keep
checking the amount of friction in
the joint as you go. \A/hen the legs
are snug, your work is done.
DtSC
9PRINO
(<=>/
lii
I Practical.
Dividers are a
staple in any shop
for stepping off
even spacing and
layout work.
DIVIPER
LEGS
ORA99
WAgHER
CUT FROM
SHEET 1TOCK
G
NOTE: ell FouRrooLo
ARE A99EMELEP THI9 WAY
l+" O.O. x3/+"
tsRAg9 Fh RIVET
(aRJNO% OFF
END BEFORE
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buildino the
Compass &
Ca'lipers
You need a compass, an inside
calipers, and an outside calipers to
complete the set of layout tools. As
I mentioned earlier, the basic tech-
niques for layout and assembly are
the same as the dividers.
But there's a little more to shap-
ing the legs of the calipers and
compass. The calipers require
some bending so that the points
are curved. And one leg of the
compass has to hold a pencil in
order for it to do its job. This com-
pass leg is a little more involved,
so I'll explain it first.
CtlMPASS
The nice thing about building
the compass is that one leg (the
"pivot") is the same as the legs on
L Creating a Curl. Use a bolt as
a mandrel to form the arms that
hold a wood pencil (inset).
20
LONG COMPAS, LEO
NOTE: roxo
COMPA55 LEA
19 THE
gAME
A5 DIVIDERLEG
the dividers. The other leg is made
to hold a pencil. Figure 3 above
and the pattem on page 17 give
you the details. The photos below
show how to cut an "F" shape on
the end with just a few cuts. The
resulting "arms" are what you'll
shape to hold a pencil.
Forming a Pencil Holder.
The first thing to do is clamp the
shaped piece in a vise as shown
below. The idea is to bend over the
arms at a sharp,90'angle.
In the lower left photo below,
you can see how a
5/16"-dia.
bolt
is clamped in the vise along the
centerline of the workpiece. (This
diameter is just right for fitting
A 90" 8ends. Give the arms a
tight bend by clamping the leg in
the vise and tapping them over.
L Tap Threads. A tapped hole
houses the knurled thumbscrew
that holds the pencil securely.
ELANK
/
(B/sz" x2" 'OV+")
9LANK-
(5/n" x2" - 6V+")
c:"ffi
coM?As9,
a pencil.) All it takes is are few
mild taps to gently bend the arms
around the bolt. Now you can test
the fit of a wood pencil and make
any adjustments. The goal is to
create a sliding fit. If the pencil
slides through too easily, just tap
the arms a little tighteq, as you can
see in the lower left margin photo.
The arms will be a little long,
but that's okay. You can cut and
file them to match the shape of the
bend on the opposite side.
The last thing to do before
assembly is to tap the hole for the
thumbscrew that holds the pencil
in place. (Refer to the article on
page 12 for help on tapping.)
Compass Assembly. You can
assemble the compass just like you
did with the dividers.
just
make
sure that the pencil holder is on the
outside of the leg during assembly.
L Perfect Circles. Creating a
circle on a workpiece is easy with
your shop-made compass.
L Removing Waste. Diagonal
cuts will leave a small amount of
materialto be filed away (inset).
ShopNotes No. 105
rN9tpE
CALITERS
CAUPEN$
Like the dividers, making the two
sets of calipers begins with a pair
of straight legs. The difference is
the length of the steel blanks. The
legs are a little longer to account
for the bends at the bottom end.
Tight Radius. After drilling,
cutting to shape, and final smooth-
ing, you can work on bending the
ends. For the inside calipers, you'll
form a tight radius, as you'll notice
in the margin photo above.
Here again, as/to"-dia. bolt is the
perfect size. The key is to securely
clamp the bolt in the vise. Then lay
the leg on edge across the bolt to
start forming the radius.
I found that it really didn't take a
lot of force to shape the leg. You'll
start at the top of the radius and
L, Large Radius. A pipe fitting
makes a perfect anvil for creating
the larger radius.
ShopNotes.com
work your way out to the end of
the leg. This provides the smooth-
est curve with the least amount of
effort. You can use the pattem on
page77 to check your progress as
you gently create the curve.
Once you're huppy with the
final shape, you may need to do
some finish sanding to get rid of
the small dents and dings from the
hammer. From here, the assembly
process is the same as before.
Large Radius. For making the
outside calipers, I used a larger
radius so that the points would
"reach" around objects. Forming
this radius was a little trickier for
two reasons. First, it takes a little
effort to make sure both legs are
shaped the same. Here again, the
pattem will help you outwith this.
The other thing to note is that it
takes time to get a smooth curve. It
doesn't pay to be in a hurry.
Pipe Mandrel. To help create
a smooth, gradual curve, I used a
172"-4iu. r,""tpipefitting. Clamped
tightly in the vise, the pipe serves
as an ideal form or anvil for creat-
ing the large radius.
FIGURE
OUTjIDE
CALIPER LEG
L Tight Radius. A bolt comes to
the rescue as an anvil for forming
the small radius.
The procedure is the same as
before
-
start at the top of the
curve and gently work your way
to the end. Again, gentle, consis-
tent taps are the key. You'll get a
feel for the right amount of force
in a short while. After final shap-
ing, you can smooth out any dings
and kinks with sandpaper.
Twisted Points. Once the cali-
pers are assembled, you'll need to
"twist" each leg until the points
align. I found the best way to do
this was to clamp the last couple
of inches in the vise then use pliers
for leverage to gently twist the leg.
(Be sure to protect the legs with
padding to keep the pliers from
marring the surface.) It won't take
much effort and it pays to take it
slow. Keep checking your progress
until the points align.
Heirloom
Quality.
Building
and using this set of tools will give
you a lot of satisfaction. The best
part is, you'll have a set of tools
that will last for generations. A
3/+"-DlA.
10?
(5/zz" x2" - O3/+")
OUT9IDE
L Inside. Take
the guesswork
out of measuring
pipe and hole
diameters.
I Outside. Ihese
calipers are handy
to have near a
lathe to check
your progress
on turnings.
q
OUl9IDE
CALI?ERLEA
CALIPERS
2T