INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING A NEW CONCEPT OF APPAREL

ENGINEERING
By: R. Rathinamoorthy
Abstract
The world economy has changed in significant ways during the past several decades, especially
in the areas of international trade and industrial organization. Two of the most important new
features of the contemporary economy are the globalization of production and trade. Therefore
todays technological systems are characterized by orientation to productivity; this can be
achieved through the apparel engineering. This paper introduces the various concepts and
methods that have been used in Industrial Engineering as a part of Apparel Engineering in
Garment industries. Generally, Industrial Engineering is defined an approach applied to all
factors, including human factor involved in the production & distribution of production and
services. Further this paper discusses the various basic works of the industrial engineers and the
importance of it in achieving the good productivity and improved efficiency.
Key words: Industrial Engineering, Capacity Study, Method study, Time study, WIP.


Introduction
Over the past decade new modes of thinking have filtered into the apparel industry. Changing
customer demand has forced some firms to change their paradigms and develop new strategies
and philosophies for doing business. This has created a need for new approaches and new
measures of performance. Industrial Engineering is a part of apparel engineering which
integrates knowledge and skills from several fields of science: From the Technical Sciences,
Economic Sciences as well as Human Science - all these can also be supported with skills in
Information Sciences. The Industrial Engineer comprehends knowledge in those sciences in
order to increase the productivity of processes, achieve quality products and assures Labour
safety. The concept of Engineering in apparel industry is different thought to different people.
Industrial engineering in apparel industry is a new trend, which helps to improve the industries
production, productivity and efficiency, if it is applied properly. It is difficult to come into a
small definition about the engineering. But, for the purpose we may say it as A science by
which the properties of matter and the source of energy in nature are made useful to man.
Industrial Engineer (IE)
Even though the engineering people helps to develop the quality of the company, the industry
miss understood them, for many operator and supervisors, they are the people who fix the target
and requirements too high always.
Industrial engineer differs from other forms of engineering because it involves specifically the
functions of production and distribution. As a whole the industrial engineering is the part of
apparel engineering to find out the logical way s of to do something. The time required to do it,
and the way to measure the result. Time study and motion study are the two steps of finding the
best way to do a job and timing to find out how long it takes. The time study helps to get correct
quotas and price rates. For costing, man power planning, machine requirements, production
planning etc.
Responsibilities of IE
Though the time study and motion study are the most common function of Industrial engineer,
the some other responsibilities are
1) Planning layouts
2) Monitoring Production flow system
3) Deicide the machines and attachments for all style
4) Pay system
5) 5 .Monitoring and improve the operator performance
6) Operator training
7) Production control system
8) Quality control
9) Others
Need of Apparel Engineering
One of the basic functions of Industrial engineer is to get facts. These facts may be in the form of
a time study or a cost report. But either case, management is given information to act upon. The
important necessities are


# Standardisation of methods, equipment, and conditions.
# Production scheduling to work accurately helps to understand how long it takes to
complete the work.
# Fair payment to employee
To ensure all the three above mentioned the apparel engineering is needed. These engineering
effort benefit the company like work simplification, increased productivity, increased profit,
increased Earning.
Basics of Industrial Engineering
Capacity Study
It is exactly the measure of the operator same as capability. It means the operator is capable of
achieving the performance measured by the study. The major Need for capacity study is to set
Quotas, to motivate operator, and to measure the productions section capacity. By measuring the
individual operator capacities, supervisor can determine the overall capacity of their section. It is
simply the some of individual capacity.
Procedure
Use of stop watch
Measure the time study
Average the time cycle
This average cycle time measures the operator ability to do the particular job. Its the measure of
the skill of particular operator. Because the Industrial Engineers want to measure the skills and
ability of the operator in their average cycle time.
Method Study

Figure 1 Components of industrial Engineering/Work Study
Method study is the systematic recording and critical examination of existing and proposed ways
of doing work, as a means of developing and applying easier and more effective methods and
reducing costs. Generally industrial engineering is often substituted by the term work study as
shown in Figure 1. The procedures which need to do follow while doing method study are given
as follows. There are seven steps to be followed by industrial engineers to do method study they
are,

Select the work to be studied
Define the objective
Record the relevant information and data
Examine information and data
Develop the improved method
Install improved method
Maintain the improved method
Work measurement
Time Study
Work measurement is carried out by time study. Time study is a work measurement technique
for recording the times and rates of working for elements of a specified job carried out under
specified conditions and for analyzing the data so as to obtain the time necessary for carrying out
the job at a level of performance. The concept of Rating is fundamental of time study. Rating is
the process used by industrial engineer to compare the actual performance of the operator with
operator mental concept of normal performance. The rating is the numerical values used to
denote the ratio of working. In order to rate the operator ether must be a defined level of
performance to compare with, an average level. For this the industrial engineers apply the
concept of a Standard operator. A standard operator is a fully trained and motivated to perform
a defined task and is, by definition average in terms of his /her work place.
The steps to do the time study is as follows,
Observe the job and analyse to determine the element
Rate each element to compare with the accepted standard
Use the stopwatch to time each element
Average the selected element times
Multiply average element time by rating
Add the basic time for all the element
Add allowances

Here the elements are the small components into which an operation is divided for study
purpose. They are selected for the convenience of the observation, measurement and analysis.
These elements should be clear and fully describable during the data presentation and analysis
that.
Points to be consider during the time study
1) When study performing the observer notes the speed at which the operation performed,
and compare this mentally with the standard operator.ie, have the mental concept of
100% operator and analysis the deviation from it.
2) Allowances are added to the 100% time determined by the time study to give a standard
allowed time which will permit the average operator to earn a satisfactory wage.
3) Thread changes, Bobbin changes, cleaning and oiling the machine. Thread breaks, needle
breaks etc, are should considered as machine delay. The machine delay factor is applied
to the total cycle time. This has the effect of giving a delay allowances on the machine
cycle.
4) The operator allowances like personal needs such as water, rest room, minor
conservation, break periods etc are considered as personal and fatigue allowance.
Method Engineering
This topic involves method engineering at the individual work place. It is important to note that
methods engineering is greatly influenced by the basic sewing room design. For this purpose it is
necessary to plan methods and sewing room design simultaneously. Machinery selection also
related to method engineering. The method engineering tools are discussed below.
1. Process charting
Here the different types of charts are used to analyse the operator work, work flow etc.
Multiple activity chart - For assembly line
Man machine chart For operator study related to machine
Micro motion study chart - Micro motion study
Left hand and Right hand chart - For typical sewing operation


2. Principles of motion economy.
While we analysing the basic motions formally, it is possible to apply the laws of motion
economy. These rules have been researched extensively by Professor Ralph M.Bames of the
University of California. These rules are most important in sewing room. The rules are,
Two hands should begin and complete their motion at the same time
Two hands should not be ideal at the same time other than rest time
Motions of the arms should be made in opposite, symmetrical and simultaneously.
There should be fixed and definite place for all tools and materials.
Tools, materials and controls should locate close and direct to the operator.
Gravity feed bins and containers should use to deliver the material.
Drop deliveries should used whenever possible
Two are more tools should combined where ever possible
3. General classification of hand motions
The hand motion generally catagorised follows
Finger motion
Motion involving finger and wrist
Motion involving finger, wrist and fore arm
Motion involving finger, wrist, forearm and upperarm
Motion involving finger, wrist, forearm, upper arm and shoulder.
4. Precision
This method is to reduce precision I the required finger motions by use of such device as edge
guides and label dispensaries as well as sewing tolerance of the stitch line.
Work Flow
Many parts of garment assembly are sequential; therefore, each operation is dependent on the
previous operation. This has significant implications in planning work flow and assembly. Work
flow is the movement of materials and garment parts through the conversion processes. It can be
impacted by any part of a production process and the constraints that develop. A slow operator, a
machine that malfunctions, or flawed fabric may all be constraints to work flow.
Balancing
Balancing is the process of planning a smooth work flow with a steady supply of work for each
operation. Balancing involves planning and scheduling input based on the demand for finished
parts and products. Demand originates from both internal and external need for parts and
finished goods. External demand is established by customers outside the firm and internal
demand is created by succeeding operations as parts and components are needed to assemble
products. Pull through production is customer driven which means that the next operation is an
internal customer. Products or parts are produced as needed but not in anticipation of future use.
TPT
In seeking to maintain a steady work flow, it is essential to determine the operation that is
consistently the slowest. If all work on a particular style must go through the specific slow
operation, that operation will dictate the rate of work flow and the volume of finished goods that
can be completed in a specific time period. This operation is often referred to as a bottleneck, a
constraint to throughput, because it limits the volume of work that can be completed in a work
day. Throughput time (TPT) is the time taken by particular volume of work to complete.
WIP
Work in process (WIP) is the number of garments under production at a given time. Once a
bottleneck is determined, engineers study the operation to determine whether it can feasibly be
improved. It may mean operating during breaks and lunch, adjusting routings, using other
methods, scheduling the operation a second shift, buying an additional machine, or changing to
new technology for the operation. Other factors that affect work flow are plant layout, materials
handling, the production system, and operator skill and training.
Plant Layout
Plant layout is the spatial arrangement and configuration of departments, work stations, and
equipment used in the conversion process. Layout of an apparel production plant directs the flow
of material and work in process from start to completion and integrates materials handling and
equipment. A good layout has the flexibility to be changed to meet requirements of the product
line, delivery schedules, and anticipated volume.
Line Layout

A line layout operates on the principle that each unit is produced exactly the same and that
operations are performed in a specified sequence. Work flows from work station to work station
until the garment is completed. Line layout is most efficient with long runs (high volume of
identical products) when the sequence of operations and equipment does not have to be changed
frequently. Depending on the volume required, a plant may have several lines making the same
style or several lines each making different styles. Line layout does not necessarily mean each
machine is different. There may be several operators performing the same operation. The goal is
steady work flow through succeeding operations. If a style requires only one operator to hem the
pockets and three operators to set pockets in order to keep work in process moving, then
engineers will build that into the layout.

Why Industrial Engineering
Industrial way of garment production needs a thorough preparation of production because in the
same time, it is necessary to combine a few factors: people, time, machines and place of
production, organization and material in a coordinated and rational system. Technological
system of garment production must enable expected quality of product, necessary scope of
production, delivery of ready-made garments in the expected time, maximum use of capacity
with minimum expenses. An Industrial Engineer can perform several activities to fulfill their
task, Processes and Procedures of manufacturing or service activities can be examined through
Process Analysis. Industrial engineers can use Work Study comprehending Method Study and
Time Study. The mentioned activities are also called operations Management. Furthermore can
Industrial Engineering involve inventory management to make a manufacturing process more
feasible and efficient . Industrial Engineers used to increase efficiencies and cost-effectiveness of
operations by the products strategies like High-volume production, long-runs and minimal
variations.

Conclusion
This concept of Industrial Engineering is a key to apparel industry to improve their work nature
and the methods. The apparel industry is identified as a buyer-driven or customer driven
industry, so the apparel production has become more intensified by global competition. To
survive in this competitive world the industry should work more efficient. The concepts which
are outlined here are the most important factors to improve the productivity and efficiency of the
industry. The application of industrial engineering method like method engineering, work study,
capacity study, line plan and other operations management systems are ultimately leads the
industry to timely delivery of goods, high profit and develop the working environment as a
happy place.

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About the Author:
The author is associated with the Department of Textile Technology at PSG College of
Technology, Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu, India.