Contents
2 Publisher’s Imprint
Editor
Horst Mall
E-mail horst.mall@sulzertextil.com
Administration
Trudy Hermann, CH-8630 Ruti ZH
Fax +41 (0)55 250 21 71
E-mail weavers.digest@sulzertextil.com
Layout
He!
AG für Kommunikation
Werbeagentur ASW
CH-8500 Frauenfeld
E-mail info@he-com.ch
Printed by
2000-0122
Printed in Switzerland
ISSN No. 1424-5728
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001
True to our principles
EDITORIAL
sell a large number of machines, we also lined up
several new projects and talked with many leading
representatives of the textile industry. Numerous
existing and prospective customers profited from
the opportunity to view the new products and
developments exhibited at the Sulzer Textil booth.
These tradeshows were the first international
presentations following the announcement that
Sulzer Textil would continue to operate as an inde-
pendent company within the ITEMA Group (subject
to the approval of the cartel authorities). We were
glad that visitors and associate companies alike
accepted the new circumstances in a very positive
light – a fact that was confirmed not least by the
2000-0021
Sincerely,
Christopher Somm
Sales and Marketing Manager
Sulzer Textil
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001
WEAVING PRACTICE
One weaver, for instance, stated that he increased
efficiency from 94% to 98% and increased the
speed from 650 to 850 rpm, while at the same time
Ring yarn
reducing the cleaning interval by a factor of five.
That will certainly not always be possible, but it
illustrates the inherent potential of compact yarn.
100%
WEAVING PRACTICE
75% The use of yarns coarser than 19.7 tex (Ne 30) for
50% fabrics is now also being investigated, usually
25% because of finishes which impair the strength of
the styles or the desire for less hairiness.
Warp and weft So far, almost all industrially produced compact
3.0/105
yarns have been made of cotton. However, the
* technology is being continuously further developed
and refined, and in trials practically all types of fibre
Ring yarn * Could not be
are used.
αe 3,56 αe 3,56 αe 3,23 processed
is a registered trademark of
Rieter AG, of Winterthur, Switzerland
Ring yarn
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001
Denim –
the stuff dreams are made of
More than one in two
denim products in the world 7
originates on a Sulzer Textil
weaving machine.
WEAVING PRACTICE
Success in Turkey
However, fashion is not the only yardstick. Clothes
also owe their wearers something – comfort and
freedom of movement. This is why stretch fabrics
are meanwhile so popular. While the first fabrics
were only elastic in the warp, demand is increasing
for bi-elastic fabrics, which are even more com-
fortable. Sulzer Textil occupies a leading position in
9096-0314-1
Responding quickly and in an innovative way to new market wishes can change very quickly, and a fabric with a
8 complex construction may be required quite
requirements is becoming increasingly important as a suddenly. While it was possible to weave the old
precondition for lasting success. Thanks to their modular style on a machine with a tappet motion, the new
design, Sulzer Textil weaving machines can be adapted one can only be produced with a controlled dobby.
Or, taking the example of an agro-textile: at first, a
quickly and economically to meet new needs.
NEWS
The electronically
controlled warp let-off
is easy to add on to the
existing mechanical
warp let-off.
9095-1003
NEWS
impossible, given today’s cut-throat competition. the fabric from slipping back and thus protects
Another alternative would be to buy new machines: the surface of the fabric from damage.
certainly the best solution for the machine • Electronically controlled warp let-off
manufacturer. However, by the time the machines for absolutely constant warp tension from the
are installed in your mill the boom may be over. For full to the empty warp beam. A contactless sensor
such an eventuality, Sulzer Textil has the ideal measures the warp tension and regulates a
solution, economical compared with the other al- frequency-controlled motor with an electro-
ternatives: modernization or conversion. What magnetic brake.
problems can be solved in this way? Sulzer Textil’s • Reed inclination by 4°
"Customer Service Engineering & Upgrading" In the production of heavy fabrics, inclination of
answers this question in detail in the following: the reed shortens the recoiling fell, resulting in
gentler beat-up and making higher pick density
Expanding the range of applications possible.
The following conversion possibilities exist for this
purpose: Modernization pays off
• Warp tensioner You can adapt to new market conditions even with
Ideal for fabrics with high weft density. low capital expenditure. With a modernized
High stability and close adherence to the set machine inventory you will be better placed to
warp tension are the distinctive features of this respond quickly to new requirements, to expand
low-mass tensioning and guide sys- your range of styles or to supply to
tem. new markets.
• Weft mixer Competitive The additional benefits, such as
or control system for four weft yarns improved fabric quality and lower spa-
thanks to
or colours for styles requiring more re parts and maintenance costs, mean
than one weft yarn or weft colour.
modernization that you can optimize your operating
The weft mixer, or weft insertion costs. The economic efficiency of
from two or more yarn packages modernization is affected by wage
improves the appearance of the fabric. costs, quality criteria, and machine hours per year
• D12 projectile with large clamping area and style program. The bottom line is this: mod-
This makes significantly more versatile weft ernization of existing weaving machines, resulting
insertion possible without any loss of per- in higher flexibility and cost optimization is a factor
formance. The clamping surface area of the which should not be underestimated in securing a
projectile is substantially larger. company’s long-term survival.
• Conversions from tappet motions Ask our specialists how you can modernize your
to controlled rotary dobbies or Jacquard machines. machine inventory. The range of alternatives
available will surprise you. Please contact us via the
address given in Info direct. TX 78
Info direct
Heinz Klingele
Phone +41 (0)55 250 26 27
Fax +41 (0)55 250 21 03
E-mail
heinz.klingele@sulzertextil.com
Weaver’s Digest No. 4/December 2001
Successful in practice
The Wovens Division of Amoco Fabrics GmbH in
Gronau (Germany) has been taking advantage of
in-house basic and update training since 1995. The
company has several hundred Sulzer Textil weaving
2001-0349
NEWS
Textil weaving machines in operation, producing a
wide variety of fabrics for local and export markets.
One key factor in this success is certainly that we
are the only company in the world offering all
leading weaving systems – rapier, projectile, air-
2001-0347
Outstanding quality –
a result of in-depth process expertise
12
2001-0289
In its clean, well-lit weaving Wuxi Qingfeng Co. Ltd., one of China’s leading tex- Besides cotton, blends are also used, e.g. cotton/
room, Wuxi Qingfeng tile manufacturers, produces 120 million linear polyester, natural fibres such as ramie and linen,
produces mainly broad, metres of fabric a year, processing some 13,000 tons and rayon and Tencel. New additions to the range
high-quality fabrics for of cotton. The company was certified to ISO 9002 in include stretch fabrics made of elastic yarns.
export – on Sulzer Textil
1999, thus making clear that it is committed to One in four of the machines in the weaving room
weaving machines.
excellent quality at every stage of production. As far is an efficient Sulzer Textil weaving machine with a
as weaving machines are concerned Qingfeng relies working width of 280 or 330 cm. For plainer fabrics
on Sulzer Textil expertise and quality: a total of these machines are equipped with dobbies, and for
175 modern projectile weaving machines ensure intricately patterned fabrics with jacquard mach-
high fabric quality and extremely cost-efficient ines. In light of the good results obtained, other
production: the company exports the end-products companies in the Wuxi Qingfeng Group have
primarily to Europe, the USA, Canada, Brazil, Japan, meanwhile begun using Sulzer Textil projectile
Korea, and other south-east Asian countries. weaving machines. TX 81
The production line comprises spinning and weav-
ing rooms and a finishing department with bleach-
ing, dyeing and printing facilities. The fabrics pro-
cessed are mainly cotton, for bedlinen, tickings,
home textiles, shirts, blouses and suits.
ST
Printed in Switzerland e/32.30.09 Doa