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CASCADING SKIRT
Jenny Haskins Designs 2006

This fabulous skirt, cut on the bias, fits all sizes and is very flattering no matter the figure size or
shape. The fullness of the skirt is restricted to below the hips, with panels in excess of a full circle
cleverly joined and edged with antique dyed lace. The top of the skirt sits flat and smoothly over
the hips and tummy and it is recommended that for fuller figures a longer line top or vest is more
slimming.

MATERIALS
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4m (4 3/8yd) Soft falling fabric such as Liberty cotton, voile, chiffon, or batiste
TIP: Choose a fabric that requires little or no ironing.
7.5m (8 1/4yd) Rayon 10cm (4in) wide edging lace (antique dyed)
7m (7 5/8yd) Rayon 2.5cm (1in) wide edging lace (antique dyed)
50cm (19 3/4in) Elastic (or length to suit you waist that slips easily over the hips
1 reel Construction thread to match fabric
3 reels Overlocking thread to match fabric to be used in the serger/overlocker
Bodkin
Tracing paper and lead pencil
General sewing requirements

PREPARATION

1.) Use the tracing paper and lead pencil to trace around pattern piece
No 1and No 2.
2.) Place pattern piece No 2 (top section of skirt) on the fabric and pin (chose whether you want
a centre back seam [one-fabric piece] or two side-seams [two-fabric pieces]). Cut out the
pattern pieces making sure to match the fabric grain lines on the pattern piece to that of the
fabric.
TIP: When cutting out the top section/s of the skirt, it is important there are minimum
gathers at the waist and the seamed waist opening snugly slips over the hips. Remember the
fabric is on the bias, so will stretch.
3.) Place pattern piece No 1 (skirt panel sections) on the fabric and pin then cut out the fabric
making sure to match the fabric grain lines on the pattern piece to that of the fabric, cut
eight panels.
4.) Set-up the serger/overlocker for a narrow three thread overlock, using three reels of thread
that match the fabric then overlock around all the raw fabric edges on all pattern pieces.

CONSTRUCTION

5.) Use construction thread and the sewing machine to construct the garment and insert the
lace.
6.) Sew the centre back (or side seams) top section of the skirt, with a flat open seam, press.
7.) On the waist edge of the top section of the skirt, turn over to the wrong side of the fabric, a
2cm (3/4in) casing and stitch down, making sure the fabric is stretched as you sew using a
stretch stitch. Leave a small opening to thread the elastic through.
8.) Join the skirt panels together using the 2.5cm (1in) edging lace, wrong side of edging lace to
right side of fabric, down either side of each panel. The lace should cover and sit over the
overlocked fabric edges. Stitch in place using a narrow zig zag stitch and matching thread to
lace and fabric.
TIP: Make sure that the lace faces the same way on all panel pieces, that is: straight side of the
lace on the left, edging on the right.
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9.) Join the bottom section to the top section of the skirt using the lace; in the same manner as
in step No 8, straight edge of lace to the top section of the skirt and scalloped edge to the
bottom section of the skirt. Mitre each point or corner of the lace to ensure it sits flat and
smooth these mitres should cover the raw edge of each insertion lace piece that joins the
skirt panels.

NOTE: A feature of this skirt is that is has an uneven hemline which is due to the bias cut and
the weight of the fabric and lace. Should you choose to have a straight hemline then it is advised
that you let the skirt hang for a week before straightening the hem and attaching the lace.

10.) Attach the 10cm (4in) edging lace to the bottom of the skirt, wrong side of lace to right side
of fabric, so the straight edge of the lace covers the overlocked hem of the skirt. Use
construction thread and a straight stitch.
11.) Measure the elastic so that it stretches over the hips, use a bodkin to thread through the
waist casing, then use a hand-sewing needle to join the elastic and slip stitch the opening
closed.