Evening Star Blouse

in fancy twill with metallic weft

SARA NORDLING

Here are instructions for a blouse fabric to go with your Evening Star jacket. If you
have a 16-shaft loom, you can weave the jacket fabric and the blouse fabric on the
same warp without rethreading. On four or eight shafts, you can also use the same
warp for both fabrics, but you’ll have to rethread the loom between them.

L
ike many weavers, I don’t like to warp my
loom more often than necessary, especially
with a slippery yarn like rayon. It was a
treat to discover that on a 16-shaft straight draw
I could weave both the eyelash fabric and a fancy
16-shaft twill fabric for the blouse.
Because not all weavers have 16-shaft looms,
I also designed twills on four and eight shafts
that are equally appropriate for the blouse; see
photos of the fabrics on page 2.
For directions on weaving the eyelash jack-
et fabric on three shafts and constructing the
jacket, see “Evening Star Jacket,” Handwoven,
March/April 2004, pages 48–50.
Before you wind your warp, examine the pat-
tern you have chosen to make sure the width
and length of your handwoven fabrics will ac-
commodate the pattern pieces. McCall’s pattern
#8155 (for a jacket and sleeveless blouse), which
is no longer available, was used for these gar-
ments. A similar pattern is McCall’s #4309.
Preparing the loom
To weave only the blouse fabric, wind a warp of
920 ends black 10/2 Tencel 3 yards long (see
Project at-a-glance, blouse fabric, page 3) and
thread the loom following Figure 1, 2, or 4a,
pages 3–4).To weave both fabrics on the same
Sara Nordling, currently of
Waco, Texas, enjoyed ten years
of weaving and encouragement
from the Duneland Weavers
Guild of Indiana. She is now
working for a BFA in fiber
art from Baylor University.
1 HANDWOVEN www.inter weave.com
warp, wind 920 ends black 10/2 Tencel 7 yards
long (see Project at-a-glance, jacket and blouse
fabric, page 3). Thread the loom and weave the
fabric following the draft in Figure 3a if you have
a 16-shaft loom (use the peg plan in 3b if you
have a dobby) for the eyelash fabric. If you have
a 4-shaft or 8-shaft loom, thread and weave the
eyelash fabric following Figure 1, page 50, Hand-
woven, March/ April 2004.
Loom adjustments for weaving both fabrics
on the same warp
If you are weaving both fabrics on the same
warp, you will have to make some loom adjust-
ments after weaving the eyelash fabric. On six-
teen shafts, change the tie-up to the one in Fig-
ure 4a or repeg the dobby to the peg plan in Fig-
ure 4b to weave the blouse fabric.
On four or eight shafts, you will need to cut
off the eyelash fabric and rethread the warp fol-
lowing Figure 1 or 2. Before you cut, however,
weave several picks of scrap yarn to secure the
end of the eyelash fabric. Raise shaft 1 and in-
sert a lease stick into the opening behind the
heddles. Raise shafts 2 and 3 and insert a sec-
ond lease stick into the opening between the
first stick and the heddles. Fasten the ends of
the lease sticks together and suspend them with
cords from the castle at a comfortable position
for threading. (The lease sticks will be support-
ed by the warp as long as the warp remains under
tension, but once the warp is cut, they need to
be supported by cords.)
Allowing 8–10" of unwoven warp in front of
the reed, now carefully cut the warp threads
close to the scrap weft and remove the eyelash
a. 4-shaft blouse fabric

b. 8-shaft blouse fabric

c. 16-shaft blouse fabric

E V E N I N G S TA R T W I L L T O P 2
1. 4-shaft draft for blouse fabric
15x 1 2 3 4 5 6
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4
3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

20/2 rayon metallic weft

fabric from the loom. To rethread, pull the cut warp Finishing
threads out of the reed and heddles so that they hang

repeat
Cut the fabric from the loom and secure raw edges
from the lease sticks behind the shafts. (Check to be with machine straight-stitching or zigzagging. Ma-
sure you have enough heddles on each shaft and chine wash, warm, on a gentle cycle, and tumble dry
move them as necessary; see Figure 1 for the heddle on low. Press with an iron set on a relatively low set-
count on four shafts. For the 8-shaft draft in Figure ting (test on a small area to see that the iron is not
2, you’ll need 115 heddles on each shaft.) too hot).
Thread the loom following Figure 1 or 2 and sley Because metallic yarns can be scratchy, I chose to
the 10-dent reed in a 2-3-3-3 sequence, centering line the blouse as well as the jacket. Lined blouse
for a width of 341⁄12", tie on to the front apron rod, Heddle count
patterns are not common. To create your own blouse
and retie the treadles. lining, cut out a second set of pattern pieces from Shaft 4
Heddles
230
Shaft 3 245
the lining fabric as for the handwoven fabric and cut Shaft 2 215
Weaving the blouse fabric Shaft 1 230
facing pieces from only the interfacing. Sew the 920
Weave the fabric using the rayon metallic yarn as blouse following the pattern instructions (with in-
weft following the treadling in Figures 1, 2, 4a, or 4b. terfacing), assemble and sew the lining in the same
Weave for 76" measured under tension on the loom. way, and then sew the lining to the fabric at neck
(Note that take-up and shrinkage are about 15% to and armhole openings. Hem the lining separately
determine warp width and length for other patterns.) from the garment.

PROJECT at-a-glance
Weave structure for blouse Yarn sources Weave structures for blouse Warp order and length
fabric only 10/2 Tencel is available and jacket fabrics 920 ends 7 yd long (allows
Twill. from Textura Trading Com- Jacket “eyelash” fabric: cut 10" for take-up and 36" for
pany; 20/2 rayon metallic is supplementary weft floats loom waste and for cutting,
Equipment on a plain-weave ground.
available from Robin and rethreading, and retying be-
4-shaft, 8-shaft, or 16-shaft Blouse fabric: twill.
Russ Handweavers. tween the two fabrics).
loom, 35" weaving width;
10-dent reed; 1 boat shuttle. Warp order and length Equipment Warp and weft spacing
920 ends 3 yd long (allows 4-shaft, 8-shaft, or 16-shaft Warp: 27 epi (2-3-3-3/dent
Notions loom, 35" weaving width; in a 10-dent reed). Width
4" take-up and 27" loom
Jacket and sleeveless blouse 10-dent reed; 2 boat or end- in the reed: 341⁄12".
waste).
pattern (McCall’s #4309 or feed shuttles; 1 stick shuttle Weft: 27 ppi. Woven length
similar); lightweight fusible Warp and weft spacing or ski shuttle; small sharp (measured under tension
knit interfacing as required Warp: 27 epi (2-3-3-3/dent scissors. on the loom): 130" for
by pattern; 1 yd 45" lining in a 10-dent reed). Width eyelash fabric; 76" for
fabric; black sewing thread. in the reed: 341⁄12". Yarns
blouse fabric.
Weft: 27 ppi. Woven length Warp: 10/2 Tencel (4,200
Yarns (measured under tension yd/lb), black, 6,441 yd (1 Finished dimensions
Warp: 10/2 Tencel (4,200 on the loom): 76". lb, 83⁄5 oz). After washing, amounts
yd/lb), black, 2,761 yd Weft: 10/2 Tencel (4,200 produce enough eyelash
(103⁄5 oz). Finished dimensions yd/lb), black, 2,960 yd yardage for one medium-
Weft: 20/2 rayon with After washing, amounts (111⁄3 oz); 20/2 rayon size jacket, 291⁄2" × 112",
metallic binder (6,300 produce enough yardage for metallic (6,300 yd/lb), and enough twill yardage
yd/lb) off-white and gold, one medium-size sleeveless off-white and gold, 2,833 for one medium-size blouse
2,137 yd (51⁄2 oz). top, 28" × 65". yd (71⁄5 oz). 28" × 65".

3 HANDWOVEN www.inter weave.com

2. 8-shaft draft for blouse fabric 4a. 16-shaft draft for blouse fabric 4b. Peg plan 1 1 5 7 9 11 13 15 16
57x 2 2 6 8 10 1214 15 16
115x 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 3 1 3 7 9 11 13 14 15
16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 16 4 2 4 8 10 12 13 14 16
8 8 8 8 5 1 3 5 9 11 12 13 15
7 7 7 7 7 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 15 6 2 6 8 10 12 14 15 16
14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 7 1 3 7 9 11 13 14 15
6 6 6 6 6 6
13 13 13 13 13 13 13 13 13 8 2 4 8 10 12 13 14 16
5 5 5 5 5 5 9 1 3 5 9 11 12 13 15
12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12
4 4 4 4 4 4 10 2 4 6 10 11 12 14 16
11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 1 3 7 9 11 13 14 15
3 3 3 3 3 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 12 2 4 8 10 12 13 14 16
2 2 2 2 2 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9 13 1 3 5 9 11 12 13 15
1 1 1 1 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 14 2 4 6 10 11 12 14 16
7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 7 15 1 3 5 7 9 10 11 13 15
16 2 4 8 10 12 13 14 16
6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 17 1 3 5 9 11 12 13 15
5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 18 2 4 6 10 11 12 14 16
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 19 1 3 5 7 9 10 11 13 15
3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 20 2 4 6 8 9 10 12 14 16
21 1 3 5 9 11 12 13 15
2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 22 2 4 6 10 11 12 14 16
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 23 1 3 5 7 9 10 11 13 15
24 2 4 6 8 9 10 12 14 16
25 1 3 5 7 8 9 13 15
26 2 4 6 10 11 12 14 16
27 1 3 5 7
9 10 11 13 15
28 2 4 6 8 9 10 12 14 16
29 1 3 5 7 8 9 13 15
30 2 4 6 7 8 10 14 16
31 1 3 5 7 9 10 11 13 15
32 2 4 6 8 9 10 12 14 16
33 1 3 5 7 8 9 13 15
34 2 4 6 7 8 10 14 16
35 1 3 5 6 7 9 11 15
repeat

36 2 4 6 8 9 10 12 14 16
37 1 3 5 7 8 9 13 15
38 2 4 6 7 8 10 14 16
39 1 3 5 6 7 9 11 15
40 2 4 5 6 8 10 12 16
41 1 3 5 7 8 9 13 15
42 2 4 6 7 8 10 14 16
43 1 3 5 6 7 9 11 15
44 2 4 5 6 8 10 12 16
45 1 3 4 5 7 9 11 13
46 2 4 6 7 8 10 14 16
47 1 3 5 6 7 9 11 15
48 2 4 5 6 8 10 12 16
49 1 3 4 5 7 9 11 13
50 2 3 4 6 8 10 12 14
51 1 3 5 6 7 9 11 15
52 2 4 5 6 8 10 12 16
53 1 3 4 5 7 9 11 13
54 2 3 4 6 8 10 12 14
55 3 5 7 9 11 13 15
56 2 4 5 6 8 10 12 16
57 1 3 4 5 7 9 11 13
Choose a simple sleeveless 58
59
2 3 4
3 5
6
7
8
9
10 12 14
11 13 15
blouse pattern. 60
61 1
4
3 4 5
6
7
8
9
10 12 14 16
11 13
20/2 rayon metallic weft 62 2 3 4 6 8 10 12 14
63 3 5 7 9 11 13 15
64 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
65 1 5 7 9 11 13 15 16
66 2 3 4 6 8 10 12 14
57x 1 2 3 4 67 3 5 7 9 11 13 15
68 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
16 16 16 69 1 5 7 9 11 13 15 16
3a. 16-shaft 15 15 70 2 6 8 10 12 14 15 16
14 14 14 71 3 5 7 9 11 13 15
draft for 13 13 72 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
73 1 5 7 9 11 13 15 16
jacket 12
11 11
12 12 74
75 1
2
3
6
7
8
9
10 12 14 15 16
11 13 14 15
76 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
fabric 10 10 10
77 1 5 7 9 11 13 15 16
9 9 78 2 6 8 10 12 14 15 16
8 8 8 8 79 1 3 7 9 11 13 14 15
repeat

7 7 7 80 2 4 8 10 12 13 14 16
81 1 5 7 9 11 13 15 16
6 6 6 6 82 2 6 8 10 12 14 15 16
5 5 5 83 1 3 7 9 11 13 14 15
4 4 4 4 84 2 4 8 10 12 13 14 16
3 3 3 85 1 3 5 9 11 12 13 15
86 2 6 8 10 12 14 15 16
2 2 2 2 87 1 3 7 9 11 13 14 15
1 1 1 88 2 4 8 10 12 13 14 16
89 1 5 7 9 11 13 15 16
90 2 6 8 10 12 14 15 16
91 1 3 7 9 11 13 14 15
92 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
93 1 5 7 9 11 13 15 16
3b. 16-shaft peg plan 94
95
2
3 5
6
7
8
9
10 12 14 15 16
11 13 15
for jacket fabric 96
97 1
4
5
6
7
8
9
10 12 14 16
11 13 15 16
98 2 3 4 6 8 10 12 14
1 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 99 3 5 7 9 11 13 15
2 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 100 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
3 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 101 1 3 4 5 7 9 11 13
4 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 102 2 3 4 6 8 10 12 14
5 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 103 3 5 7 9 11 13 15
104 2 4 5 6 8 10 12 16
repeat

6 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15
7 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 105 1 3 4 5 7 9 11 13
8 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 106 2 3 4 6 8 10 12 14
9 2 4 6 8 107 1 3 5 6 7 9 11 15
10 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 108 2 4 5 6 8 10 12 16
11 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 109 1 3 4 5 7 9 11 13
12 2 4 6 8 110 2 4 6 7 8 10 14 16
13 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 111 1 3 5 6 7 9 11 15
14 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 112 2 4 5 6 8 10 12 16
15 2 4 6 8 113 1 3 5 7 8 9 13 15
16 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 114 2 4 6 7 8 10 14 16
repeat

17 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 115 1 3 5 6 7 9 11 15
18 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 116 2 4 6 8 9 10 12 14 16
19 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 117 1 3 5 7 8 9 13 15
20 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 118 2 4 6 7 8 10 14 16
21 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 119 1 3 5 7 9 10 11 13 15
22 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 120 2 4 6 8 9 10 12 14 16
23 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 121 1 3 5 7 8 9 13 15
24 10 12 14 16 122 2 4 6 10 11 12 14 16
balance

25 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 123 1 3 5 7 9 10 11 13 15
26 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 124 2 4 6 8 9 10 12 14 16
27 10 12 14 16 125 1 3 5 9 11 12 13 15
28 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 126 2 4 6 10 11 12 14 16
29 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 127 1 3 5 7 9 10 11 13 15
30 10 12 14 16 128 2 4 8 10 12 13 14 16
1 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 129 1 3 5 9 11 12 13 15
2 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 single 10/2 black Tencel weft 130 2 4 6 10 11 12 14 16
balance

3 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 131 1 3 7 9 11 13 14 15
4 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 tripled 10/2 black Tencel weft 132 2 4 8 10 12 13 14 16
5 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 133 1 3 5 9 11 12 13 15
6 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 20/2 rayon metallic weft 134 2 6 8 10 12 14 15 16
7 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 135 1 3 7 9 11 13 14 15
8 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 136 2 4 8 10 12 13 14 16

E V E N I N G S TA R T W I L L T O P 4