Profit in the Paint Shop Series (3 of 6)

The Lost Art of Masking

By Carl Wilson
3/3/2014 2:44:30 PM
One technique to precision mask: 1) overmask, and 2) trim back with a razor knife. The
end result is 3) precision masking.
To mask or not to mask; that is the question.
It wasnt always the question. There was a time when
detrimming door handles and mirrors was unheard of.
Naturally, we hadnt even coined the phrase precision mask
because everything was precision mask, or as we referred to
it, masking. What the heck were you doing in the paint shop
if you couldnt even mask?
Times certainly have changed. Generally, we dont even
consider masking various components as opposed to R&I
(remove and install). These days, we often see masking as something done to jambs,
adjacent panels or windshields but only after pulling the
windshield molding, as largely gone are the soft rubber
windshield moldings you could rope or use lifting tape under
in order to slide a piece of masking tape under the edge.
However, I contend that precision masking is still a skill to
develop. And develop it you must if you plan on masking
components while maintaining the invisible repair concept
not to mention a sound paint edge that resists peeling or
chipping
R&I Mindset
I suppose Im getting ahead of myself. Your mindset may still
be at R&I the components, with no possible reason
imaginable to precision mask. Fair enough; thats a common
thought. I suspect most of us have heard the following
phrases or perhaps even uttered them ourselves: I want it
done right, It cant be done right if thats not removed, Im
not going to do hack work or The paint will bridge if we dont
take it off. Absolutely precious.
If you want to do it right, then do it right. If you refuse to do hack work, then dont do
hack work. Those are work habit integrity issues and are not representative of proper
masking. As far as the paint bridging goes, for the most part, the culprit isnt simply
masking. Its improper masking and the improper application of the sprayed coatings.
Apply it, dont pour it on.
Im not suggesting that we eliminate R&I procedures that facilitate efficiency and
productivity in the paint shop. What I am suggesting is that there are some instances
where we dont have a choice, and in such instances, we need to be certain we can
perform the task and still guarantee the outcome.
But Carl, you always have a choice! Yeah, youre right. We can choose to violate the
federal mandate that says we must preserve VIN and R-DOT stickers by scraping them
off or, worse yet, paint right over them. Preserving those stickers certainly is not hack
work, and there is no R&I of the sticker in order to do it right. Im aware that some of
the OEM R-DOT stickers are already masked, but most are not.
There are countless situations where you may find that you must mask, such as the
molded-in step pad on certain rear bumper covers or the grill of certain front covers.
Or, where you simply choose to mask due to cycle time or perhaps because the non-
reusable clips that break are discontinued and the vehicle is scheduled for delivery the
day after tomorrow.
Cleaning and Prepping
Precision masking is important, but equally important is precision prepping and proper
cleaning. All three must be present to ensure that paint film adhesion is achieved at the
painted edge/masking tape junction. Of course, properly unmasking is required as well.
No chipping or peeling at the edge, in spite of the fact that you painted right up to the
masked edge, is indeed possible.
So how do you do it properly? Its as simple as being faithful to the fundamentals:
masking, sanding and cleaning. Attention to detail and a determination to leave as few
clues as possible. Replacing the mindset of I cant or I wont with I must and I will! It
takes a little longer to precision mask/prep something and not leave clues by way of
overspray or overmasking, but it can be done.
I offer you one of many techniques to accomplish this. It does require a little skill, but the
more you perform it, the easier and more proficient youll become. Like many
techniques, if you practice it in places where it isnt that critical, youll have the skill
refined when and where it is critical.
Just overmask it, then trim it back with a razor knife. Dont over penetrate with the razor
knife and damage the surface below the tape. Then, sand right up to the edge of the
tape, using a fresh edge of sandpaper or a sanding pen. The key is right up to the
edge. Do not destroy the masking tape by sanding over the edge of it and
compromising the integrity of the edge. Do not destroy the tape edge by stretching and
turning a tighter radius than the tape can achieve without the memory of the tape
pulling back and allowing overspray under the edge. You need that tape edge crisp to
ensure effective masking and successful unmasking. Sometimes its a better choice to
trim a radius into the tape rather than bend the tape around.
Mask with a Purpose
Its helpful to always have the purpose of the masking and unmasking in mind. Purpose
of the masking? Yes! For example, bagging a vehicle with a plastic bag to protect it from
overspray has little value if your critical edge (the masking immediately adjacent to the
painted panel) of masking is adhering poorly and pulling up, allowing overspray under it.
Sure, you covered the car, but you failed to protect it from overspray. Dont just go
through the motions; mask with a specific purpose and be certain the purpose is
achieved.
Unmasking in mind? Yeah, not simply pulling the tape away from the painted edge
towards itself, but with consideration to efficiency in general. Think of unmasking as a
thread pulled from a sweater, all connected and unraveling in succession. If, when
possible, you can pull the thread of the critical edge and methodically remove it in
succession, youll find this to be quicker. And as long as the masking is in your hand,
toss it onto the middle of your plastic car cover rather than on the floor, roll up the bag
and toss it. This, too, will save a little time. Naturally, waiting to unmask until after youre
done with any polishing thats required will save time with the cleanup all contributing
to overall efficiency.
As far as what tape to use with any technique, the task will dictate that for you.
Sometimes a vinyl-type tape is necessary. Other times, a crepe paper tape is sufficient.
Considering just those two types of tape, you have dozens of choices, and not all tapes
are equally fitted for the task.
Other Masking
On to other masking...for its not just precision masking techniques we need to consider
but any masking that eliminates the clues of our repair. Its easier, faster and more
profitable to simply mask effectively rather than clean overspray later.
The plastic car cover of today with one paintable side is an item I believe has sped up
my process. Yesteryears version didnt have a paintable side and, as a result, you
couldnt use the plastic for your critical edge. I know a lot of painters still prefer a
papered critical edge, and thats perfectly fine, but I for one was impressed with the
results I attained using plastic at the critical edge. And it led to faster bagging and
cleaner paint jobs!
I like to save the pieces of plastic from trimming around a hood or door in empty tape
rolls and use them later to mask the opening where a door or windshield has been
removed. That little bit of proactive prevention goes a long way in keeping peace with
the detailer. The greater benefit, of course, is avoiding a horrified customer who may
unexpectedly show up to retrieve a garage door opener and find theres four pounds of
sanding dust coating their cars interior. Im well aware that not everyone cares about
that, but I do. You probably do, too. I guarantee the owner of the vehicle does.
Overspray is a telltale clue of our repair. Protecting components or adjacent panels from
overspray is an easy task and an obvious function of masking. Avoiding the telltale sign
of a hard line in a jamb, or a fuzzy oversprayed jamb, is not quite so easy but it can be
done. Its a two-pronged approach: masking and spraying.
The masking requirement be it the folded tape trick, a commercially manufactured
transition tape or even one of the foam aperture tapes is consistent positioning of the
tape at the crown of the radius of the natural breaking point into the jamb or at the first
concave within the jamb. Ive seen it done both ways successfully.
The second prong is your spraying technique. You cant flood the taped edge lest you
bridge it and defeat the purpose of the specialty tape. The angle you spray relative to
the tape position as well as your point of overlap helps facilitate this. It takes a little
practice, but the results are worth it.
Door/Quarter Panel Gap
Another area that presents a bit of a challenge yet can be addressed with a simple
technique is the door/quarter-panel gap. How do you prevent the sealer from over
penetrating the jamb, forcing a spot/refinish operation in order to rectify it? Talk about
killing efficiency. The result is a second trip into the booth to address a preventable
problem.
First, lets understand why this happens. Sealer is heavier than color and therefore
penetrates deeper than the color when sprayed. Weve all seen it and wondered why
the color doesnt cover the sealer. Incidentally, this can happen regardless of whether
you mask at the crown of the radius near the panels exterior field or at the first interior
concave of the jamb. And, as we all know, odds are were going to have to paint that
jamb to fix it. Lets avoid that situation instead. My solution is simple and easyand
much faster than spot painting the jambs later.
Your vehicle is in the booth, prepped, masked, wiped down, tacked and ready for
spraying. Get a spray-out card (I know you have spray-out cards because youre
diligently building your own personal color library, right?) and cut it into 1.5-inch-wide
strips. Gently bend them in half, avoiding a hard crease. Insert the folded card stock into
the jamb prior to sealing. Once the sealer has flashed off, pull the card stock out and
proceed with your color application. Youll notice that the card stock has performed as a
preliminary masking barrier, stopping the penetration of the sealer into the jamb.
Maximum Efficiency
The cleaner and more precise our efforts, the more efficient and productive our
operation is. This bears fruit by way of improved cycle time, material savings and better
margins. Better margins can result in equipment and tool investments as well as training
opportunities and facility improvement, etc. Masking is simply one link in the chain, and
if you cant mask, what the heck are you doing in the paint shop?
Carl Wilson has been painting for nearly 30 years, with formal training from the GM
Training Center, ASE, I-CAR and multiple product and color courses. He currently
works as a technical rep for Hi-Line Distributors in Oahu, Hawaii. He can be reached at
carl@refinishexpert.com.