IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

CONTENTS
4
Welcome!
Youll get an instruction manual with your new bike, in fact youll
probably get about three or four little booklets in the welcome
pack. Theyll show you how to set up your gears and how to
tighten the headset correctly so the bars dont come loose
when youre riding and other safety stuff. Its semi-useful but
what these bits of paper wont tell you is how to get the most
from your bike, what the dials on the fork do and how they alter
the suspension, how changing the pressure in your tyres can
affect grip and comfort, what the best sag setting is for your
weight... and what is that anyway?
The mbr Manual goes a step further and shows you
everything about your new bike; how to set up the controls,
suspension and even the correct way to route the cables.
Theres quick xes for when you get into trouble,
advice on basic skills and techniques, and nally
some inspiration just so you know that buying that
mountain bike was the best thing you ever did!
Contents
6 BIKE MAP
Gets you pointing in the
right direction
8 BIKE WALKTHROUGH
What the bits are and
what they do
18 SET UP
Everything from bike t,
to suspension set up, to
cleat angle
40 CLOBBER
Basic biking attire youll
need to get started
46 PROTECTION
We look at helmets, gloves,
pads and keeping your rig
in good nick
50 BASIC SKILLS
Quick tips to help the
learner rider
54 FIX IT
How to get home if things
go wrong
58 WHERE TO RIDE
Inspiration to just get
out and ride
WORDS: Paul Burwell
DESIGN: Ben Smith
SUBBING & PRODUCTION: Jamie Darlow
BASICS The mountain bike
6 7
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Anatomy of an mtb
Dont know a chain ring from a cassette sprocket?
Let our bike map guide you around your bike
For those that dont know their way
round a modern mountain bike,
weve put together this simple bike
map. Its a list of all the important
parts on a bike, where they are, what
they look like and how you adjust
them. The blueprint is a great place
to start before getting stuck into any
of the more involved step by steps
further on in this supplement.
You can also tot up all the tools
needed for repairs by cross
referencing them on page 8.
Think of this as a workshop sat
nav but hopefully without the
blind alleys or low bridges.
BARS & STEM
A stem clamps both the fork
steerer and the handlebars.
Attached to the bars are the
brake levers and shifters.
You can raise the height of
the stem with spacers.
HEADSET
By tightening a bolt inside the
cap on top of the stem, you can
pre-load the headset bearings,
eliminating play. The bearings
are pressed into cups, which
are pressed into the frame by a
headset press.
SADDLE
Most saddles t most
seatposts. The rails of
the saddle are held by
the seatpost clamps.
SEATPOST
This is a dedicated diameter
to match the frame. Its
clamped by a collar; with
either a quick release lever
or xed Allen bolt.
WHEELS
Wheels go out of true
(alignment) but you can x
this at home using a spoke
key. Wheel bearings and
the free hub body can be
replaced or serviced but
require specialist tools.
TYRES & TUBES
Some tyre and rim combos
result in a loose t but they
can also be super tight. Use
extra long tyre levers.
SUSPENSION FORK
You can remove the fork from the
bike with an Allen key. Usually air
sprung on trail bikes, so a shock
pump is required to adjust the
sag. Specialist tools are needed
for servicing/repairs.
FRONT DERAILLEUR
Either direct mount,
E-type or band on,
the latter being the
most common. Can be
adjusted vertically for
different size rings.
CHAINRINGS
These are replaceable and can
be removed via four or ve Allen
key bolts. Some have Torx bolts.
REAR SHOCK
If its an air shock
a shock pump is
required to adjust
the pressure. Bolted
to the frame.
CABLES
An inner and outer
cable. Cutters are
required to cut the
outer to length.
REAR DERAILLEUR
Bolts onto a hanger
on the right-hand
dropout. Replaceable
to stop damage. High
and low limit screws
adjust the derailleurs
range of movement.
CHAIN
SRAM chains use a split link
(Power Link) but Shimano
chains need to be joined with
a chain tool (breaker).
CASSETTE
The sprockets or cogs.
Held on by a lockring,
two tools work in
tandem to loosen
and remove it.
CRANKSET/BOTTOM BRACKET
Most frames use external bottom brackets.
The cup/bearings thread in and tightened by a
socket-style tool. Press in designs are popular
but they only work with specic frames. The
crank axle pushes through the cups and the left
hand crank clamps onto the axle.
BASICS The mountain bike
8
Bike walk-through
From saddles to suspension forks, well show you the basics of
bike layout so you can know your ride like the back of your hand
Disc brakes
Brake manufacturers use
different lever and caliper
shapes/designs and even ll the
brakes with different uid but
they all function in a similar way
and share common features.
MECHANICAL OR CABLE
DISC BRAKES
Uses similar pads and pistons
to a hydraulic disc brake but is
mechanically operated the
cable pulls on a lever, which
pushes the pads against the
disc. Mechanical brakes dont
self-centre or accommodate pad
wear so need independent pad
adjustment, which is usually a dial
or Allen bolt that moves the pads
closer to the disc rotor.
nLever. This is a similar lever to
one found on a V-brake. It should
have reach adjustment and the
facility to adjust cable tension.
n Reach adjustment is either
tool free or adjusted via an Allen
key on the back of the lever.
n Split clamp (hinged
clamp). Allows you to
remove and service the
brakes or swap levers
without having to remove
the other controls.
n Bite point, also called free
stroke on Shimano brakes. This
doesnt actually move the pads
any closer to the rotor but closes
off the timing port in the master
earlier so the uid is pushed
earlier and the pads start to
engage sooner.
n Post mount. All modern calipers
and forks are post mount. There
is an older IS (International
Standard) mount but its gradually
being fazed out, even on frames.
Adapters are still available to run
new calipers on the older mounts.
n Shimano Ice Tech. Fins
on the top of
the pads help
with heat
dissipation
(cooling).
n Top loading
pads. Easier to t
or access from the
top of the caliper.
n Rotor. Mounts with either six-bolt or Shimano
Centre Lock. This uses either six Allen or Torx
bolts to mount the rotor to the hub, or in
Shimanos case, a splined hub and rotor secured
via a lock-ring. Adapters are available to mount
six-bolt discs to Centre Lock hubs.
BASICS The mountain bike
10 11
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Stem
A mountain bike stem has a split clamp where it grips the steerer and a
removable faceplate that holds the handlebar. Its available in a range of
lengths, rises and steerer sizes.
n Easton TopLock
technology. The top two
bolts lock the faceplate
into the stembody
when tightened. Theres
better grip, stiffness
and improved stem
bolt fatigue.
n Some stems
have one, two or
three bolts on the
steerer clamp.
n Stems comes in anything from 40mm to 150mm lengths, in 10 and even 5mm
increments. Stem length is measured from the centre line in the front clamp to the centre
of the steerer tube. Most Ahead stems can be ipped over for lower rise and have universal
decals and face plates so it doesnt look like you have the stem upsidedown.
n Bar size. The centre bulge
of the handlebar is now
an oversized 31.8mm for
greater stiffness. Some
older and cheaper bikes
may still use 25.4mm bars.
Saddle
n The standard
rail size is 7mm but
8 and 9mm rails
are also available.
Carbon rails are
oval shaped for
stiffness but still
allow space in
between for the
seatpost clamp.
n There are two halves to a saddle
the shell is made from nylon or
composite, with either real leather,
synthetic or a Kevlar cover. The rails
are chromoly steel, hollow chromoly,
titanium, carbon or an alloy that
combines several elements.
n iBeam saddles use a
proprietary mounting
system. This mono-rail is
moulded into the base of
the shell and slots into a
mating seatpost clamp.
Seatpost: rigid
Seatpost: dropper
n Available in a range of sizes from
25.0mm to a whopping 34.9mm.
n Mountain bike frames are
smaller than road frames and have
greater standover height so the
seatpost needs to be longer
most mtb posts are 350-400mm.
n The twin-bolt
of the Thomson
Elite is one of the
most common
clamp designs.
n On a layback post
the head or shaft
is offset, offering a
wider range of fore/
aft adjustment.
n An in-line post
has the head
direct above the
shaft, with very
little layback.
n Due to issues with housing the
internals inside a small tube dropper
posts are mostly available in 30.9 and
31.8mm diameters, although Gravity
Dropper (one of the pioneers) offers
a 27.2mm size for steel frames and
older bikes. Some frame builders have
changed their seat tubes to match and
you can t dropper posts to frames with
oversized seat tubes via a shim.
n Fixed or innite
travel. Two types of
design are available,
one with pre-sets at
specic heights and
one that can be locked
anywhere between the
upper and lower limits.
n Ride height
adjustable seatposts
are adjustable
in height via a
remote lever on the
handlebar or a lever
under the saddle.
n Most dropper
posts use
hydraulics and
an air spring to
control height. The
Gravity Dropper
uses a simple steel
spring-loaded bolt.
BASICS The mountain bike
12 13
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Rear derailleur
n Derailleurs
are available in
short, medium and
long cage, which
Shimano grades
SS, SG and SGS.
You can consider
them loosely as
DH, 2x10 and
3x10 respectively.
n Shimanos top end mountain bike rear derailleurs
are now available in Shadow and Shadow Plus. Both
are low prole designs for greater clearance but the
Plus derailleur has an internal clutch mechanism,
which helps reduce chain slap and noise.
n SRAMrear derailleurs feature
1:1 Actuation. This refers to the
ratio between the shifter cable
travel and derailleur movement.
With SRAM1:1 the amount
of cable pulled at the shifter
causes about an equal amount
of derailleur movement. SRAM
1:1 mechs are not compatible
with Shimano and visa/versa.
Front derailleur
nAn E-type front
derailleur mounts to
a plate that sits
between
the drive
side BB cup
and the frame. A
screw threaded
into a boss on the
seat tube also
holds it in place.
nLow direct mount derailleur
bolts directly to bosses on the
chainstay. There are a number
of different mount standards,
manufacturers such as SRAM
makes several models S1,
S2 and S3 options and more.
Theres no facility to raise or
lower them so
they are
speed and
chainring
specic.
nHigh direct mount (DType) was developed
by Shimano and bolts to a square boss
welded or formed into the seat tube
or a surrogate extension. Two and
three-speed derailleurs are available
but theyre not size specic, so can be
raised or lowered to accommodate
different size chainrings.
nCassettes can
include any number
of cogs, with 10speed
the new standard
nConventional front derailleurs
clamp to the seat tube and are
available in four sizes 28.6,
31.8, 34.9m, 38.2mm
nTo accommodate the
variety of frame designs,
clamps on derailleurs are
available in high or low
band. The main pic is a high
band, this is a low-band.
Cassette
Bottom bracket
Although SRAM and Shimano
use a different interface between
the crank and cups and the crank
installation, both styles of bottom
bracket will thread into a standard
bottom bracket shell, which is
either 68 or 73mm wide.
To accommodate
the two widths spacers are tted
between the cup and frame but
again, the number is different for
both brands.
nPress Fit
The bottombracket is
pressed into the frame like a
headset, there are no threads
in the frame and the shell is
generally wider. There are
several widths used by bike
manufacturers including
BB86, BB90 and BB92.
nBB30
An oversized system using
a 30mm axle and shell,
to house larger diameter
bearings. The width of
the BB is the same as a
standard model.
nPF30
Press Fit 30 uses the same
size bearing as a BB30 but
with xed cups that increase
the bottom bracket shell to
46mm diameter. PF30 uses
the 30mm spindle and is the
same width as BB30.
nBB386EVO
The latest standard from
FSA using the diameter of
the original BB30 but a much
wider 83mm shell and press
t bearings.
OTHER TYPES OF BOTTOM BRACKET
FORK TRAVEL WEIGHT
Fox 32 Float 100mm 1.6kg
Fox 32 Float 120mm 1.67kg
Fox 32 Float 140mm 1.7kg
Fox 36 Float 160mm 2.03kg
Fox 36 Float 180mm 2.38kg
FORK TRAVEL STANCHION
SIZE
RockShox Totem 180mm 40mm
RockShox Lyrik 160mm 35mm
RockShox Revelation 150mm 32mm
RockShox SID 80mm 32mm
nWEIGHT
As the travel increases so does
the weight. This is because the
fork is longer and theres often a
switch in spring medium from air
(which weighs nothing) to steel,
which weighs something.
nSPRING TYPES
There are several types of
spring used in suspension
forks. Air is the most common
because it weighs nothing
and you can adjust the spring
rate and pre-load for different
weight riders on the trail with
a shock pump.
All air forks have a negative
spring, which helps the fork
overcome the inherent stiction
(static friction) of the air spring
and allows it to follow dips and
compressions in the trail.
As the name suggests, coil forks
feature wound steel or sometimes
titanium springs. These are avail-
able in different spring rates but to
reduce costs some manufacturers
also offer a single xed rate with
an air assist, which allows riders
to adjust the pre-load without
having to swap springs.
Suspension forks come in all
shapes and sizes. The big names to
look out for include Fox, RockShox,
Marzocchi, Manitou, X-Fusion
and DT Swiss. Most manufactur-
ers make a range of forks and its
fair to say as travel increases, so
does size and weight. The shortest
travel fork is 80mm; the longest
is 203mm. The shortest forks are
designed for cross-country racing
and are the thinnest and lightest.
Long travel 200mm forks are used
for downhill racing and theyre the
heaviest and the biggest.
nSTANCHIONS
A longer travel fork is under a greater
load so to help boost stiffness and
strength manufacturers often increase
the size of the upper and lower tubes.
Triple clamp DH forks have the most
travel but they dont always have the
biggest legs because the extra crown
(brace) helps boost stiffness.
BASICS The mountain bike
14 15
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Suspension: forks
nTriple clamp
downhill forks,
like the RockShox
Boxxer pictured,
offer 200mm
or travel and a
20mm bolt thru
axle for stiffness
nLock-out: A mechanism that usually locks the
suspension in a fully extended position. Most
lock-outs are mounted on top of the fork leg so
can be reached easily when riding.
nRebound
adjuster: This
controls the
amount of
damping during
the extension
phase. This is
the red adjuster
on Fox and
RockShox forks,
blue on Manitou.
nCompression adjuster: This
controls the amount of damping
on compression. This is usually
low-speed damping to reduce
brake dive and improve stability
nThreshold/lockout force
adjuster: Although there are
several different systems
in use, all under specic
names, this feature allows
you to adjust the amount of
force needed to overcome
the compression lock-out.
nTravel adjust:
An on-the-y
travel adjustment
feature, allowing
you to shorten
the fork travel
and lower the
front end for
climbing and
extend it again
for descending.
BASICS The mountain bike
16 17
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Suspension: rear shocks
Most rear shocks are either standard off-the-shelf models like, say, on a
Orange Five (below), or theyre specic to the bike and suspension like on
the Specialized Stumpy Evo tested last month (bottom). Regardless of the
position and travel, most rear shocks share similar features.
nSPRINGS
Two types
of spring
are used
in the rear
shock
air and coil.
Unlike a coil fork where the
spring is inside the leg the coil is
exposed on the outside of a rear
shock. Theres no need to put it
inside plus its easy to access if
you want to change the rate or
adjust the pre-load.
On an air shock the air is
contained in an air canister or
air can. This is available in
different sizes or volumes. Air
preload and spring rate are
adjusted by adding air through
a Schrader valve on the side of
the shock.
nProPedal: The
adjustable low-
speed damping
platformon Fox
rear shocks,
designed to
improve pedalling
efciency. Other
manufacturers
use different
names and
adjustment levels.
nKashima coat: Foxs hard
anodising that creates a super
slippery surface on the shocks
air sleeve. Its designed to reduce
friction. This gold nish is only
featured on the factory shocks.
nBoost Valve: This is Foxs position
sensitive damping, which offers
lighter damping in the rst part
of the travel but gradual increases
it deeper into the travel. Bike
companies stipulate a specic
amount of boost valve pressure to
match the kinematics (behaviour)
of the rear suspension.
nSag gradients:
RockShox
proprietary
sag percentage
gradients on the
shock damper body
(also the fork upper
tubes) make setup
simple and accurate.
nRebound adjustment:
All rear shocks have
rebound damping via a
dial on the shock body. It
works in exactly the same
way as the fork.
SET UP Bike t
18 19
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Make your bike t
The t of your bike is dictated by the relative position of three contacts points the
saddle, bars and pedals. By altering this triangle you can affect pedalling efciency,
comfort, control, weight distribution and even grip on the tyres, so there are just a
couple of simple things to consider before riding your bike for the rst time
There are several ways to achieve
the correct saddle height for
riding off-road but its important
to remember your saddle is really
only set this high when climbing,
you will denitely want to put the
saddle down when riding technical
terrain or while descending.
There are some pretty
scientic ways to work out your
saddle height using percentages
of inside leg measurement but the
following is a simple set up that
seems to work for most riders.
Start by positioning the saddle so
the seatpost clamp is directly in the
middle of the rails and the saddle
is level. You can make adjustments
later if its too far back or the angle
is uncomfortable. Its also worth
remembering you should make all
adjustments in your riding gear and
cycling shoes as they can make a
big difference to the pedal/saddle
distance. Then sit on the saddle
with the cranks in the 6-12 oclock
position. Its generally assumed that
when your heel just touches the top
of the pedal with your leg straight
its at the right height.
You can then try this by riding
round. Your leg should be slightly
bent when pedalling and you
shouldnt have to rock your hips
from side to side.
When it comes to venturing
off-road dont be afraid to drop
your saddle. You can drop the
saddle (say an inch or two) for
general traversing or owy
technical trails, even technical
climbs. Some riders like to get it
right down out of the way on steep
descents but others like to feel the
bike beneath them try both.
You can adjust the height of
the stem and handlebars by
repositioning the spacers on the
fork steerer, often theres around
20-30mm of adjustment. You can
also ip the stem over to change
the rise.
Its difcult to recommend a
particular handlebar height,
simply because there are so many
variables and we dont always
ride on at ground. The general
assumption is you run a higher
bar for downhill and a lower bar
for XC. This makes sense because
on the climbs the bike is tilted
upwards and on the descents its
tilted downwards and this changes
your weight distribution and grip.
Essentially, when climbing you want
to weight the front wheel through
turns and stand up without it feeling
like a stretch. On the descents the
higher bar position allows you to
push back, reducing the weight on
the front wheel and fork dive, which
also increases steering stability.
Generally you should start with
at least one 10mm spacer under the
stem but its also worth setting up
the fork sag correctly. We see a lot
of riders running their stems too
high simply because they have their
forks too soft.
Saddle height
Saddle fore/aft
The saddles position in relation
to the cranks affects pedalling
efciency but as weve already
said this is pretty unimportant if
youre stood up and descending
with your saddle down. Its still
worth starting out with a neutral
position though. If your bike has
a layback (or offset, bottom pic)
seatpost dont be afraid to move
the saddle all the way forward
if you feel youre sitting too far
back. Also think about changing
the post to an in-line design
if you think youre sitting too
far forward.
Stem height
Brake lever position
One nger braking
A brake lever is just a simple lever, so if you put
your nger at the very end of it you will generate
the greatest amount of leverage and braking force.
But one nger braking also has other advantages
its easier to feather the brakes with one nger
than two, which is the sort of control you want most
of the time. One nger braking leaves the other
ngers wrapped securely round the grip and you
also unhook you thumb for gear shifts. And with
Shimano shifters offering two-way release its easy
to shift to a harder or easier gear with your thumb,
which doesnt have to move far. The best thing is
if you want to generate more braking force its
relatively easy to go to two nger braking by
moving your hand across.
There are two styles of one nger braking
index nger or middle nger. The latter means you
usually wrap your index nger round the handlebar
or use it for shifting. In terms of set up it means
you may have to position your brake levers slightly
further outboard, overlapping the grip. But whats
important is the position of the lever blade, not the
gap between the clamp and the grip.
Two nger braking
Both the index and middle nger applying pressure
at the same time. Brake position is similar to the
middle nger scenario above. As weve said, one
nger braking
is good for
modulating
speed, two
nger braking
for coming to
a sudden stop.
If you set the
brake levers up
correctly you
can have both.
SET UP Controls
20 21
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Controls
Buy a new bike and the stem, handlebars, brakes,
shifters and grips should be tted and tightened
correctly, but you might nd theyve been set at
some jaunty angles its worth spending time
positioning them correctly as it can make a
huge difference to condence and control
Reach adjustment
At the same time youre
adjusting the position of the
brake levers youll need to set
the reach. On some (radial
piston) brakes the lever actually
moves in a tighter arc and can
change position as it travels
towards the grip.
Reach adjust sets the starting
position of the brake lever rela-
tive to the handlebar and its
generally related to hand size,
although its also dependent
on lever travel, brake feel and
rider preference. Ideally you
dont want to stretch to reach
the brake lever or unhook any of
your ngers to do so.
When the pads contact the
rotor and start to bite your
hand should be in a loose st
shape with your wrists slightly
down. If the levers are too far
away you hands will be in a
claw shape and your wrists will
be up. This can actually cause
arm pump and discomfort on
long descents.
You may have to compromise
slightly on reach adjustment
if youre two nger braking
because your index nger can
get crushed against the bar by
the brake lever.
Brake lever prole
The face of the brake lever (blade) where your nger wraps
onto it is different from brake to brake. Some have a thinner,
atter shape, others are more convex. Some even have holes
drilled in for better
purchase. You cant
really make changes
to blades but plenty
of manufacturers
offer carbon upgrades
and these are often
better formed and
more ergonomic.
Brake lever angle
The same reason you dont want the
levers too far away is the same reason
you dont want the levers pointing
too far down. It causes you to stretch
forward when braking and since you
do the majority of your braking on
the downhill
it can actually
throw you too
far forward
over the front
wheel. Think
about keeping
your elbows
down and wrist
horizontal or
slightly down. If
you cant reach
the levers in that
position they are
too low.
About 20 from
horizontal is a good
starting point. If it feels odd just
make small changes over time.
Reach adjustment is
usually accessed at the
back of the lever blade
via a small Allen key
bolt, although a lot of
top end brakes now have
tool free adjustment.
If you run your brake
levers snug (obviously
keeping to the factory torque
settings) there should be
enough scope for them to
move in an impact, which
should save them from
snapping and may even
mean youll be able to
carry on the ride.
SET UP Controls
22 23
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Grips
Grip size
Weve been told that you buy a
tennis racquet according to the grip
size, or you tune it afterwards. To an
extent the same is true of the grips
on a mountain bike and itd be fair
to say riders with small hands want
small diameter grips, riders with
big hands want big. However, many
riders say thin grips as generally
better as they offer increased feel,
better control and reduced fatigue.
Grip type
Grips come in two types, stick on
and lock on. The former are just
the standard grips you see on
most bikes and theyre usually
made from a branded rubber
(sometimes called Karton/
Krayton rubber) and glued
in place.
ODI pioneered Lock-On grips and
its grip consists of a cartridge, the
actual bit with the grip on, and two
locking collars that clamp it to the
handlebar. Other manufacturers use
alternative mounting methods like
a single clamp or expandable end
cap. The cartridge is a two-piece
design with a rubber outer layer
and nylon inner and can be replaced
once the rubber surface has worn
away. Theyre interchangeable too,
with different sizes, compounds
and styles available. Thinner Lock-
On grips use less rubber but that
means reduced cushioning and
durability, so if you want a thin,
comfortable grip you may have to
go to a stick on design.
Grips come in a wide variety of
diameters with the average around
32mm. Thicker grips can impact on
the shifter function, especially the
trigger release as it can touch the
grip before completing the shift.
Positioning can help but failing that
trying a narrower grip may be the
only option.
Some manufacturers mix
Kevlar with the rubber to increase
durability and some also use
really soft sticky rubber for wet
weather grips.
Stem
Stems come in lots of different
lengths and lots of rises. The
Aheadset design allows the stem
to slide up and down on the steerer
tube and with the use of removable
spacers you ne tune the height
easily and quickly. The faceplate on
most stems is also removable letting
you to swap the stem (to experiment
with
different
lengths)
without
having to
remove all
the controls.
Oury grips
have a fatter
diameter
than many.
Ergon grips feature
larger platforms to
support the palms.
Shifter position
Brake lever position also dictates
whether you clamp the shifters
in or out-board of the brake lever
clamps. Both Shimano and SRAM
shifters also have a ne tune
adjustment to set the side to
side angle.
Mounting the shifter on the
brake eliminates the clamp and
any conicts with the levers but
the current Shimano Ispec clamp
system for XTR (49.99) and XT
(29.99) is expensive and only
worth
getting if
you cant
achieve
the correct
brake/shifter
set up. Avids
MatchMaker X
clamp system ts XX,
X0 and Elixir CR Mag disc
brakes, but its not cheap
either, at 47.99. The original
2-bolt MatchMaker
clamps are
still the
cheapest,
at 29.99.
On SRAM shifters the
release lever only works
if you push it, whereas
Shimano shifters have a pull
and push function called
2-way release. As a result
you may have to angle
SRAM shifters slightly
downwards to access
the release lever.
SET UP Controls
24
If you make any
changes to your stem
length or bar width
you should recheck
the cable length.
One piece outer
This is an unbroken
length of outer from
the shifter to the
derailleur. It offers
better sealing and
reduces the number
of component parts.
If your bike has cable
stops you can carefully
drill and le them out.
Cable length
Its something that should have been
sorted in the factory but if you turn
the bar fully 90 and the cable lifts
out of the cable stop or binds its not
long enough. If the outer cable is too
long it can unseat and stress the end
cap causing it to split.
Tight cables or badly routed ones
can cause the shifting to be sticky
or sluggish. Check the cable quality
as bike companies often cut corners
with cabling. Replacing both inner
and outer with quality alternatives
can make a big difference. If you
have a short section of outer at
the rear derailleur make sure
theres a rubber seal on the
end and check this regularly
for contamination.
Cable routing
Since most mountain bikes are
designed in the land of the free
they come with USA style rout-
ing, which means the rear brake
is on the right hand side. If you
swap the brakes to the correct
position for UK riding it can
often cause the cables to rub on
the frame or the fork crown. The
answer is to run the rear brake
round the left hand side of the
head tube and cross it further
down. This should eliminate rub
and theyll be no need for those
ugly looking patches.
Seating
With hundreds of saddles on the market its hard to recommend a
specic model but you can tune the comfort of the saddle by tilting it
slightly up or down and positioning it slightly further forward or
backward. Weve looked at the positioning elsewhere in this guide
but what makes this process a lot simpler is having a seatpost with
independent fore/aft and tilt adjustment. This allows you to change one
aspect of the saddle to see how it feels without affecting the other.
On a trail a mountain bike saddle should be level or slightly nose
down. This reduces pressure (and all the associated problems with
numbness) at the front of the saddle and also lifts the rear and
shoulders of the saddle creating more of a platform to push against
when climbing.
Weve tested enough saddles to know the shape, padding, length
and prole are all down to personal taste but its also true that fatter,
better saddles are more comfortable than lightweight race saddles. If
you are going down the lightweight route pay particular attention to
the nose of the saddle.
SET UP Controls
26 27
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Handlebars
There are two types of bars used
on mountain bikes straight and
riser. Straight bars are not perfectly
straight, they usually have some sort
of sweep, the idea being it places
your wrists and arms at a more
natural angle.
As the name suggests, riser bars
have rise and also sweep well
look at the geometry of them in a bit
more detail below.
Riser bar geometry
Bar height or rise is usually measured from a centre line through the
stem to a centre line through the control centres (at sections of the
handlebar). Bars comes in various rises from 12mm to 75mm. You can
tune the bar height by adding or removing spacers on the headset,
although this also changes reach.
The two other measurements worth taking note of are the upsweep
and back sweep. These two are important because they allow you
to tilt the bar so that it feels comfortable. Theyre also related
tilting the bar forwards reduces the back sweep but increases the
up sweep.
Up sweep and back sweep is measured at the control centres from
a centre line, although weve seen bars that are measured slightly
differently. Weve also seen bars that are not what companies claim
or that have the two angles mixed up. Either way, if you play around
with the tip and bend you will need to reset the angle of the levers
every time.
Bar width
Bars come in various widths, from
580 to 780mm and even wider. Its
pretty much a given that you see
narrower bars on
cross country race
bikes and the very
widest bars (800mm)
on DH race bikes. Most
bars have cut marks
so you can trim them
to suit your riding style
and preference. Its a
myth that you match
the bar width to
your shoulder
width, but well
look at that
in more
detail in the
t section.
Up sweep
Back sweep
Running a dropper
post? Save weight
by ditching the
quick release seat
collar for a xed
clamp. Hope even
makes a modular
clamp that you can
convert one way or
the other.
SET UP Suspension
28 29
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Suspension
Setting your suspension up correctly is not that difcult,
but it can be an intimidating thing to tackle if its new to
you. In this section we arm you with the knowledge to
make suspension set up a doddle
There are three main adjustments
on a suspension fork and a rear
shock: spring preload, compression
damping and rebound damping.
The spring preload allows you to set
the sag and determines how much
travel there is in compression and
for extension. Damping controls
the speed of the shock though both
phases compression damping
slows the shock when it is being
compressed; rebound damping
slows the shock when it is
rebounding. The rst thing to get
right is the amount of sag.
Setting sag
Depending who you talk to, how
much sag you run can vary from 15
to 35 per cent. Some fork and bike
manufactures say you shouldnt run
more than a 30 per cent range of
sag, others recommend certain
settings for specic terrain and
riding styles XC riders should
run 25 per cent sag,
downhillers 35 per
cent for example. If
youre a trail rider
then start with
at least 25 per
cent sag, you can always change it
later on.
To work out the amount of sag
you need, multiply the shock stroke
length by 0.25. You dont need to
measure the total length of the
shock or consult a manufacturers
website, just put a ruler or tape
measure on the shock shaft. The
O-ring maybe off the end of the
shock or may have stopped several
millimetres before, that doesnt
matter at this stage as we just want
to get you up and running.
Start by wearing all the gear youd
ride in, including a full pack. Slide
the rubber O-ring on the body of
the shock right up against the air
RockShox negative
spring setup
The negative spring inside a
Fox Float is a xed steel coil but
most of RockShoxs dual
air forks have an adjustable
air negative, which is accessed
via the bottom of the fork.
RockShox includes a table on
the back of the fork for easy
reference and recommends you
balance both pressures. But if
you want a little more support
then Id run a little less negative
pressure, the opposite if you
want a bit more grip. Theres a
lot of scope for tuning and its
worth experimenting.
Since the negative is high-
pressure, small volume it may
seem to lose more air over time
than the positive chamber but
it doesnt. Its just that more
air actually goes into the pump
when you
t it.
TOP TIP
When you alter the
negative air pressure in the
fork you may see some oil
leaking out of the valve.
This is lubrication uid and
to prevent it coming out
simply turn the fork upside-
down when making any
adjustments.
TOP TIP
Make a note of the air
pressure in both the
shock and fork, write it
on a bit of tape and stick
it to the frame or put it
in your phone.
can and turn all the
compression settings
to minimum and, if
you have a Fox air can,
make sure the ProPedal
is in the open setting on
the rear shock. Then climb on the
bike and sit on the saddle with your
feet on the pedals, gently gripping
the handlebar. Dismount, being
careful not to compress the shock
any further and youll see the O-ring
has moved along the shock shaft.
Now get out a ruler and measure
the sag point. Since you know the
total travel you can then extrapolate
what 25 per cent sag should be. If the
shock stroke is 50mm, 25 per cent is
12.5mm. Add or
subtract air and
repeat the process
until you get the O-ring
in the correct position.
For the fork you will
probably have to lash a zip-tie
round the stanchion, as it might
not have an O-ring. But you set the
fork sag in exactly the same way,
except instead of sitting on the
saddle stand on the pedals and lean
forward holding the bars. Dont
bounce down on the fork; just let
your weight compress it. Measure
the position of the zip tie and add
or subtract air until you get the
correct sag.
TOP TIP
Once youve set the
sag using a zip-tie on
the fork leg cut this off
again. At full bottom
out this can become
compressed between the
crown and lower leg and
damage the seal.
SET UP Suspension
30 31
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Bracketing
If youre new to suspension a good idea is to use a technique called
bracketing. You start at the extremes and work your way systematically to
your ideal setting. It works like this on the fork rst nd out how much
adjustment there is by turning the compression adjuster from fully rm to
fully soft counting the clicks. Set the adjuster at one end and ride your bike
(maybe around a short loop with a climb and descent) and then turn the
adjuster to other extreme and do another circuit. This will give you an idea
what compression damping can do and actually feels like, so you can make
a decision about whether its a too slow or a too quick. Next turn the dial
one click in, ride the loop again and do the same at the other end. Eventually
youll get to a mid point but by then youll have a good idea what the whole
range of damping rides like and hopefully which setting felt best.
Do the exact same thing with the rebound adjuster, starting at the
extremes and working your way in. If you have platform adjustment on your
fork you could try that next. If you keep a record of your progression, how
certain settings worked on certain terrain or how changing the fork settings
affected the rear, you should eventually build up a picture of the overall
performance of your suspension.
This technique works equally well for the rear, although wed probably
start with the rebound damping rst, making sure the ProPedal or
compression is set in the open position.
Terrain specic
Some suspension manufactures
claim that your ideal suspension
setting is a function of the terrain.
Basically, that means tuning the
suspension so it manages the
trail youre actually riding on.
The problem is you dont always
ride the same trails or even in the
same conditions, so that means
changing the settings to match.
For example if the riding is steeper
and rougher you might want to
rm up the fork and possibly a little
bit more low-speed compression
damping to prop it up in the
mid stroke.
On atter terrain, especially if its
tight and twisty, youll need more
grip, so maybe set the suspension
a bit softer.
Dont be afraid to experiment
because the solution to problems is
not always obvious. In the trouble
shooting section on the Fox website
it says poor traction in washboard
corners is due to too little rebound
but poor traction in bumpy corners
is too much rebound damping. The
difference in terrain may be very
subtle but the settings are at
opposite ends of the dial.
At the end of the day theres no
perfect set up but if you do this in
a methodical and controlled way it
can pay off.
Damping
Just as there are different sag
settings there are also different
settings for the compression
and rebound damping. Most
top end forks have both
adjustments and while some
entry-level forks have just
rebound damping adjusted
externally, this doesnt mean
theres no compression
damping its just xed and
non-adjustable. Rear shocks
have rebound damping
adjustment and in the case
of a Fox Float RP23, a three
position compression adjust.
Regardless of the features, the
following procedure should get
you going.
01
02
03
04
Auto sag
On the majority of bikes you
have to set the sag using the
traditional method outlined
above, but with Specializeds new
AutoSag technology that may be
a thing of the past. By following
four simple steps you can achieve
pretty much the perfect
set up. All you do is open the
compression damping, pump up
the shock to 50psi above your
ride weight (in lbs), sit on the
bike, push the AutoSag button
releasing all the air, cycling the
bike a couple of times and thats
it. When we tested it in the
summer it performed awlessly,
and if you want to run more or
less sag then you can add or
subtract more air as desired.
HOW IT WORKS
OPEN COMPRESSION DAMPING
Flick the ProPedal lever open or set the
Brain threshold to minimum.
PUMP UP SHOCK
Inate shock (black valve) to 50psi
above rider weight, when the unit of
measurement is pounds. If using kilograms,
three times rider weight gives the correct
air pressure.
PUSH AUTOSAG BUTTON
Sit on the saddle in a riding position
then push the AUTOSAG valve (red) until air
ow stops completely. Release the button.
CYCLE SUSPENSION, GO RIDE
Cycle the suspension to charge the
negative air chamber. Tune compression and
rebound damping and go ride.
03
04
02
01
TOP TIP
When you remove the pump
after making an adjustment you may
hear a bit of air leaking out. This is
actually air in the pump, not the fork/
shock. If you then re-t the pump you
will notice the pressure has dropped by
around 5psi this is now in the pump.
You dont need to over inate your fork
to compensate, just charge the fork
to the correct pressure and remove
the pump as normal.
TOP TIP
If youre having problems
getting consistent pressure
in your fork or it seems too
soft check the shock pump.
The pressure gauge can be
out by as much as 10psi. Itll
either need servicing
or replacing.
SET UP Tyres
32 33
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Tyres
The right tyre choice is essential to your riding
happiness, lending grip, comfort and speed to your
bike. Find out how to get the most from your rubber
What is a pinch at
(snakebite)?
As the name suggests, this is a
double puncture wound on the
inner tube. Its caused when
the tube is nipped between
something solid say a rock
and the rim. Increasing the tyre
pressure or using a tyre with a
thicker sidewall (or swapping to a
tubeless system) can help reduce
the likelihood of pinch ats.
Tyre pressure
Rubber is porous meaning your tyre
leaches air all the time check your
tyre pressures before every ride,
and denitely before you make
any changes to the suspension.
Even a couple of psi can make a
big difference to grip and control.
Keep a record of your perfect tyre
pressures for each tyre you use and
stick to it. Since you cant trust
your thumb or most oor
pumps because theyre
inaccurate, buy a
pressure gauge.
One of
the best is
the Oxford
Digi Gauge
(19.99, pictured), as it resets
between readings and works for
both Presta and Schrader valves.
A good starting point is 30psi
but you can offset the pressure and
run less in the front, more in the
rear. If youre a heavy rider then
youll want to add more air to lessen
the risk of pinch ats, or t larger
volume tyres. With thin
mud tyres, increase
the pressure in
the soft conditions
you wont need
the cushioning
effect and it
will reduce the
likelihood
of pinch ats.
Tyre direction
Some tyres are direction specic
and it usually says on the side of the
tyre there may even be an arrow.
It matters most on the front as you
can usually run either direction on
the rear. As a general rule, if the
tread has some arrow-shaped knobs
they point forward (as you look
down onto the tyre). If the leading
edges of the knobs have been cut
away they also point forward. Dont
be afraid to mix and match sizes
and tyre brands and compounds.
A soft compound tyre on the front
will increase grip and directional
stability, a harder rear tyre will last
longer and roll faster.
Presta and Schrader valves
the difference?
A Schrader valve is like the one used on a car
and its designed for low pressure,
which is probably the reason it
was used for mountain bikes.
Presta tubes rst appeared
on road bikes, theyre lighter
and can handle higher
pressures (not that it
matters). Schrader tubes
are marginally cheaper.
Most rims come drilled for the narrower Presta
valve but if you want
to run Schrader you
will need to make
the hole bigger. All
tubeless valve cores
are Presta.
SET UP Tyres
34 35
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Mud
Slightly narrower (2.0-2.1in) than a
standard summer tyre to cut into
the mud. Square knobs are often
evenly spaced for better mud
shedding. Can be hard compound
in the centre and soft compound
edges for grip.
Trail
Slightly larger volume (2.25-2.4in)
with a more aggressive tread
pattern. Blocky tread with some
sort of directional bias and the
leading edges of the centre
knobs are often angled to reduce
rolling resistance and increase
acceleration and speed.
Dry
Very small knobblies or sometimes
no knobs at all. Similar sized edge
knobs to a trail tyre but they can be
smaller too to save weight. Kevlar
bead and thin casing.
Downhill
The name says it all (2.5in and
above). Steel bead and a thicker
sidewall to stop pinch ats. Sticky
rubber compound. Hefty, at around
1,200-1,500g per tyre and 40-50.
Semi-slick
To maximise speed a semi-slick
usually has a diamond le tread
in the centre with knobbly edges.
The racers tyre.
Tubeless
Theres no inner tube inside. The
tyre has a special bead that locks
into a special groove in the rim bed
creating an airtight seal. A UST
(Universal Standard for Tubeless)
tyre will usually have an extra layer
of rubber on the inside to stop
air loss, which adds weight and
cost, but with no inner tube and a
thicker casing the risk of pinch ats
is reduced. Its a misconception
that you can run lower pressure
for better grip what tubeless
actually allows you to do is run
sensible pressures and in some
cases smaller, lighter tyres, as you
dont have to over inate them to
resist pinching.
What is tubeless ready?
It will usually say on the sidewall if a tyre is
tubeless ready. It may have a compatible
bead, but it will have to be used with sealant,
a latex uid that seals the bead onto the
rim, reduces air loss and plugs smaller holes
caused by ints and thorns. A tubeless-
ready tyre will be lighter than a dedicated
UST tyre and usually cheaper, although with
the rim strips, sealant and accessories it
doesnt always work out that way.
Tyres below(from
left) Maxxis Medusa,
Continental Rubber
Queen, Kenda Small
Block, Specialized
Butcher DH, Maxxis
High Roller SS, WTB
Weirwolf Tubeless
SET UP Pedals
36 37
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Pedals
Mountain bike pedals come in two basic types ats
and clipless. A at pedal is similar to the one on your
mums shopping bike, but the difference is its bigger,
wider, made from aluminium and has pins for grip so
your foot doesnt slip off. A clipless pedal or SPD works
like a mini ski binding: The steel cleat, which fastens to
the bottom of your cycling shoe, clips into the pedal,
which is multi-sided for ease of engagement
SPD pedals
SPD-specic shoes have a universal
two-bolt tting to accept various
types of cleat. This design also lets
you tune the position of the cleat
most riders tend to centre the cleat
and twist it a couple of degrees
inwards to bring their heels in. This
neutral position is a good starting
point but the trend for trail riding
is to shunt the cleat all the way
back. Some riders even cut away
a portion of the sole and extend the
mounting slots to get the cleat even
further back. There are no rules
but its worth experimenting with
fore/aft cleat position to see if it
makes any difference to comfort,
pedalling efciency, mud shedding
and engagement.
Modications
nIf youre planning to make
adjustments grease the threads
of the cleat bolts so theyre
easier to get out again.
nIts also worth marking the
position of the cleats on the
sole of the shoe. If its difcult
to see, stick some Gaffa tape on
the sole and draw on that.
nDont be afraid to cut away
part of the sole to improve
clearance and engagement.
nIts usual to replace worn
cleats every year. Telltale signs
of wear are clicking sounds,
upward play and difcult cleat
entry and exit.
nDifferent types
of pedal require
different types
of cleat. The black
cleat is a replacement
Shimano cleat,
the gold one
is for Crank
Brothers pedals.
nCleats also have
some side-to-side adjustment
handy if youre experiencing
any rubbing on the crank
or frame.
Pro tip
Watch how to set
up your cleats, with
three times World DH
champion Fabien Barel.
Check out our video:
http://bit.ly/pedalsetup
SET UP Pedals
38 39
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Flat pedals
Just like with the SPD
interface, you need to think of
a at pedal and at shoe as a
system grip is dependent
on both. You can get by with
a pair of trainers but there
are several at pedal shoes
on the market sporting sticky
rubber soles, which are
designed to enhance grip.
The surface pattern of the
sole can also have a big
inuence, a wafe style
pattern for example allows
the pins of the pedal to dig in.
The curvature of the shoe
also creates more contact
with the pedal: the ball of
your foot has a slight curve
to it so it makes sense for the
pedal to mirror this shape.
Some at pedals are concave
front to back, some are also
concave side to side. The size
or surface area also plays a
big part in grip levels as more
of the shoe is in contact with
the pedal.
Usually there are around
10-15 pins on each side
of a at pedal. Most are
removable so you can alter
the placement, height, shape
and number. A lot is down
to personal preference but if
youve never used at pedals
before its worth removing
the centre pin at the back of
the pedal as its the one that
will cut into your shin if your
foot slips off.
Modications
nUse Loctite on
grub screws.
nUse a quality or
new Allen key.
nRemove damaged
pins with locking
pliers (Mole Grips).
nMost soft shoes
bed in and soften
up accelerate this
process by walking in
them for a couple of
days before riding.
Sticky soled shoes from Shimano (top) and Five Ten
CLOTHING The basics
40 41
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
What to wear
If youre just starting out for the rst time there simply
is no need to spend a weeks wages on a new outt
when all you need are the basics
Helmet
Theres a big debate about wearing a helmet but if you crash and land on
your head you can fracture your skull or get concussion: A helmet could
prevent that. It could also protect you from over-hanging branches and
ying debris thrown up from other riders. With the technology these days
it will even keep you a bit cooler than wearing nothing at all, just because
the airow is directed over your scalp.
Helmets come in lots of shapes and sizes. They are adjustable for t
and most will have some sort of cranial retention device, which is a sort of
plastic binding that cradles the back of your head and stops the helmet
wobbling around when youre riding.
Most mountain bike helmets will have a peak or visor. It can help keep
the sun and rain out of your eyes and also helps channel air, but its
also there just for aesthetics. Theres nothing stopping you removing it,
especially if its xed and not adjustable.
Gloves
If you crash and go
over the bars then you
will put your
hands out.
Gloves will
stop you
scufng
your palms
and should
mean you can
carry on riding,
albeit with your
pride slightly
dented. A pull-on
glove is a good
investment because
theres no closure to
come apart or get
caught or snag. Youll
be surprised how
warm a thin glove can
be in the winter.
Short liner
This is a thin padded short designed
to be worn under a baggy short,
but you can wear it under jeans,
tracksuit bottoms, even a skirt. Its
cheaper than a proper short but
often has the same pad or insert. It
might seem odd but you need to go
commando when wearing cycling
shorts. If youre worried about
hygiene buy some chamois cream or
nappy rash cream, and always wash
the liner/short between rides.
Jersey
If you can only afford one jersey
buy a long sleeve. Its warm in
winter, offers windproong, skin
and some UV protection and if
worn under a waterproof itll help
wick moisture. Also buy a dark
colour because it wont show the
dirt, itll co-ordinate with almost
everything and if youre a fat lad
itll make you look slimmer.
Windproof
This is a thin lightweight jacket for the tea stop or train ride home.
Its also handy to pull on when you or a mate are mending a at tyre
on some windswept moor. You can make
this jacket slightly more water resistant
by applying a DWR (Durable Water
Repellent) coating.
Grangers sells
Superproof,
a spray on
coating for
6.99, www.
zyro.co.uk.
42 43
CLOTHING Layering
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
How does
layering work?
Keeping comfortable while riding is down to two things: how much heat we produce
and how much we can get rid of. The problem is were generating the most heat
when climbing (when were travelling the slowest) and the least heat when were
descending (when we experience the most heat loss through wind chill). Its no
wonder we end up sweaty and cold. The solution is to use a combination of layers
Starter package
For most riding, most of the year, a
synthetic base layer under a jersey
should be your default option. The
base layer wicks sweat away from
the skin and dries quickly and the
jersey then transports some of the
moisture to the outside where it can
evaporate. Look for base layers with
a mesh construction, with increased
levels of venting on the back and
under arms. Also go for a tight
tting vest; itll feel less clammy
and its more effective if its right
next your skin.
Changeable conditions
When it looks like its going to rain,
add a highly breathable windproof
or waterproof to the two basic
layers mentioned above. Ideally the
jacket should have some sort of
venting, be that venting pockets,
pit zips or just a full length zip.
You may want to swap the
short sleeve jersey for a long
sleeve because the inside of
the jacket can become clammy
due to condensation build
up. Alternatively use a short
sleeve jersey and long sleeve
base layer underneath.
Rain
This is the trickiest scenario
due to the difference in
temperature when its
raining and the fact that
water conducts heat 25
times faster than air, so
wind chill becomes a
factor. Sometimes it can
be freezing rain other
times its quite mild. A
good starting point is a
long sleeve base layer
under a full waterproof
jacket. Choosing a thicker
base layer or adding a
jersey layer may be
necessary if the rain is persistent or
its particularly cold. Bear in mind
that you should never be warm when
you set off youll only get warmer
and this can overload the system.
Cold
If its not wet and just dry and cold
then a long sleeve base layer, long
sleeve jersey and a windproof is a
good combo. Swapping the top two
layers for a windproof soft shell, a
sort of tight tting eece, is a good
plan if its freezing. Add a further
insulating layer if you are
venturing to higher ground,
like on a moorland ride
in one of the national
parks. On really cold
days a good plan is
to wear a skull cap
or buff under your
helmet and include
a thicker one
for the caf/
repair stop.
When youve
nished your
ride remove all
the wet layers
and get into
something dry
and warm.
44 45
CLOTHING The full outt
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Kit: the
full monty
You need to start at the bottom as the
foundation for a comfortable day in
the saddle is a base layer and a good
liner or Lycra short
BASE LAYERS
Bases wick moisture
(sweat) away from
your skin when its
hot and add valuable
warmth when its
cold. Long, short
and capped sleeve
versions are
available, some even
have compression,
which reduces
muscle fatigue.
JERSEY
Available in long and short sleeve,
usually made from some form of
polyester, with a mesh construc-
tion to boost wicking. Features
include eyewear wipe, anti-scuff
patches, zip gutter and extra
venting in the heat areas.
OVERSHOES
By pulling on a pair of mountain
bike overshoes you can turn a pair
of summer shoes into winter
warmers: cheaper than buying
winter-specic boots, washable
and versatile. They are a tight t, so
wont always t over a trail shoe.
SKULL CAP/BUFF
Both can be worn under a
helmet, providing extra
warmth in the
winter. Handy
if youre
bald or
losing it.
LEG/KNEE WARMERS
These useful little sleeves are like
the cut-off legs of tights that you
wear under
Lycra. They
have silicone
grippers so
stay in place
but they can
be removed
easily once
you warm up.
BAGGY SHORT
Windproof, waterproof, three
quarter, gravity, and lightweight
there are dozens of styles and types
available. Sold with or without
a liner. Look for built in waist
adjustment, hip pockets (handy for
keys etc), more than one popper
on the waist, Ripstop fabric, DWR
(durable water repellent) coating,
below the knee, womens cut.
WATERPROOF SOCKS
Dont fancy the
overshoe route?
Waterproof socks
are just as good
in the winter. The
added bonus is you
dont compromise
the performance
of your footwear
and you can
use them for
other activities.
GILLET
Basically a windproof tanktop. Its the
perfect thing for changeable conditions
as it offers core warmth combined with
excellent breathability and ventilation.
Look for a specic MTB gillet, road
ones are often too tight tting and
too low cut at the front. Also worth a
look is the Endura Convert II 74.99, a
lightweight 2.5-layer waterproof with
detachable sleeves (pictured).
LINER SHORT
It makes sense to buy several pairs of liners and
change them every day. Some baggies come with
liners included but wed buy them separately,
simply because you can pick and choose brands,
prices and styles (they are gender specic). You can
also control the sizing: you want the short liner to t
tight against your body, a saggy chamois is not nice.
Trail noir
We all have uniforms and
mountain bikers are no different.
Black is the default option for most riders
and if you take a stroll down the high
street its almost everyone elses too.
Black gear is attering and also doesnt
show the dirt perfect for mountain
bikers who want their riding gear to look
good for longer. We also believe that
riders wear black because it sends
out the right message I can ride a
bit but I also want to blend in.
Top tip
Renew the DWR
coating regularly even on
the top end Gore-Tex
jackets. It washes off and
can even be rubbed off
by the straps on
your pack.
WATERPROOF
There are several types of waterproof
bike jacket ranging in price from about
60 to around 250. Some of the cheaper
jackets use treated in-house fabrics
while the top-end jackets feature Gore-
Texs Paclite or Active Shell materials.
Generally, heavier weight jackets offer
more protection but do breath less. Your
choice should depend on the conditions
and the type of riding youre doing.
GLOVES
You need several pairs,
two for the summer and a
thicker pair for the winter.
These dont have to be
full on thermal jobbies
because wind chill is less of
a problem off-road. That
said, less mesh on the back
and ngers is a good idea.
Try before you buy too
even though gloves are size
numbered (9 = medium)
they dont always measure
up that way.
Knee pads
There are hundreds out there
with varying amounts of padding
and pedalling comfort. Look for
Velcro straps top and bottom,
side protection and a cutaway
at the back to stop chang. Also
get the right size, as they loosen
up and baggy pads can easily
get knocked to one side, where
theyre less effective.
46 47
CLOTHING Protection
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Protection...
Hurting yourself and damaging your bike is not good for
your body, your condence or your nances so its worth
considering all levels of protection when riding off-road
Helmet
The debate over whether to wear a helmet
has been raging as long as weve be
riding, which is the best part of 20 years.
You dont have to wear one but riding
off-road is unpredictable over
hanging branches, slippery roots
and even other riders can all catch
you out. If you think helmets look
daft then youre in a minority
because most mountain
bikers dont. Youre also
doing them a favour because
its hard work carrying
someone off the hillside.
Full face helmet
With a chin guard and extra padding a full face is the ultimate in face
protection. Most gravity guys wont use anything else uplifting and riding
downhill but theyre over the top for trail use. A half way house could be the
Met Parachute (sheroutdoor.co.uk) or Casco Viper MX (casco-viper.co.uk);
alternately, they could just be a bad compromise. Your call.
Shin/knee pads
Like the above but with an
extra shin protector, which
is handy if you ride ats or
dont like the idea of cuts
and bruises being badges
of honour.
Long sleeve jersey
Riding off-road youll be
weaving through tight
undergrowth and a long
sleeve jersey will resist
brambles, nettles and
even a bit of UV. For a
good value performance
jersey try the Endura
MT500 Burner,
endura.co.uk.
Eyewear
Dirt, dust and mud splatter is
not nice when it gets in your
eyes, especially if you wear
contacts. Eyewear is practical
and also stylish. Look for a
system with interchangeable
lenses or a photochromic lens
that darkens on exposure to
ultraviolet light.
Chamois cream
Invented by our roadie cousins
it stops chafng and soreness,
something you will experience if
youre a rst timer. Make sure you
dont wear pants under youre liner
or Lycra short.
48 49
CLOTHING Protection
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Helicopter tape
The same stuff as a chainstay
protector but it comes in big sheets
you can cut and shape
or smaller patches that
you can dot on the
frame to stop cable
rub. A large piece
under the down
tube will reduce
rock damage. Take
out the creases
with a hair drier.
Bike Shield from
extrauk.co.uk
is 24.99.
...for
your bike
Bike bag
Off to
sunny
climbs?
Then a
padded
bike bag
is a must.
Its handy
if you can roll it up for storage
once youve reached your
destination. Try the Ultra Bike
Bag from ultrasporteu.com.
Ride wallet
This is a tidy little stuff pocket
to carry a phone,
MP3 player,
money and other
essentials. Its
great if youre
riding packless
or just out for
a quick thrash. Blackburn Vip
Zip Wallet 15.99 from
madison.co.uk
First aid kit
Its inevitable that youll have
a mishap, its part of what
mountain biking is about, but
patching yourself up is a good
idea. Lifesystems makes a range
of mini rst aid kits that you can
stuff in a pocket the Light &
Dry Micro First Aid Kit is around
11.99, lifesystems.co.uk.
Mudguard
The rst line of defence against
splatter is a mudguard. There are
various mounting options and
they range in price from 6 to
60. A good rst time guard
is the muckynutz.com Fender
Bender for 7.98.
Lockable bike rack
Its a must have if you travel with your bike and Id go
further by investing in a solid cable lock through the
wheels and even a D-Lock in the frame. Try the Thule 538
Cable Lock, 24.99 from madison.co.uk.
Ground anchor/
shed anchor
If you have to leave your
bike in an outbuilding buy
a ground anchor you can
cement into the oor, and a
quality chain. Worth a look
is the Demon Ground Anchor
75 from
propa-
lok.com.
Chainstay
protector
A lot of new bikes come
with them but weve seen many
that dont, even top end bikes. Its
either a neoprene sock or a simple
strip of plastic that sticks to the
chainstay or swing arm to stop the
chain damaging the frame. Lizard
Skins chainstay protector, 8.49
from 2pure.co.uk.
SKILLS Go faster, fall off less
50 51
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Top tips for
better skills
Even the best riders make mistakes but theres a ne
line between getting it wrong and not having the
skills in the rst place. The following tips outline a few
of the fundamentals that should help get you pointing
in the right direction. If you need more detail and
instruction on specic techniques turn to the back
of mbr each month for specic skills
Practice
The only way youre going to get
better is to practice. This means
going out on your own or with your
mates and riding stuff over and
over. It will take time and patience
and you may even have the odd
tumble but if youre methodical and
disciplined you will improve.
Push down
Its easy to pull up when youre
clipped into SPDs, especially over
little jumps and obstacles in the trail,
but pulling the rear wheel off the
ground can unsettle the bike. You
really want to get both wheels off
the ground level and the only way
to do that is to push down into the
pedals rst, like youre springing
up. A simple way to illustrate this
point is to try and jump into the air
without bending your knees.
Target xation
Its sounds obvious but look where
you want to go. Dont look at that
stump, root, rock, tree or ditch either
side of that skinny bridge. If you nd
it happening try to force your eyes
away. Aim for the gaps between
rocks, smooth bits of trail and look
through corners for the exit.
Relax
Its also really easy to tense up on a
new bit of trail and even on a section
youve ridden several times. You
need to relax. Aim for a really loose
grip on the handlebars, shake that
tension out of your neck and
shoulders (this is actually more
important when youre climbing) and
keep your elbows and knees bent.
Neutral position
Whenever people talk about skills they talk about the attack position.
Essentially this is bum off the saddle, knees bent, elbows out, heels
slightly down and head up. It sounds like you should be pumped up but
its actually the opposite a relaxed and neutral stance that allows you
to anticipate and react to changes in the trail easily and quickly.
Lean the bike
Leaning the bike is a good way to
increase grip in corners. This is
especially useful if it tightens up
or you can feel the bike starting
to slide. Move you bum onto the
outside of the saddle, drop your
inside wrist and push with your
feet trying to get the tyres to bite.
Head up and look ahead
Rather than looking at a point
about a foot in front of your
front wheel, scan the trail
ahead. You cant do this with
your helmet visor obscuring
your line of sight, so tilt it out
of the way. If its a xed visor
remove it altogether and see if it
makes a difference.
Hard gear
Its difcult to get in a good position if youre riding in too low a gear.
A lot of riders dont shift into the outer chain ring because they dont
think they can spin it, which is probably true, but a bigger gear offers
greater support and stability.
SKILLS Go faster, fall off less
52 53
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Ride with better riders
To bring on your skills it makes sense to ride with better riders. You
may already do that but most groups have a pecking order and if
youre one of the weaker riders you could be bringing up the rear. The
best place to be is second in line, just behind the alpha male, so you
can see all his lines and the trail ahead but not so far back that youre
getting a lung full of dust.
Take off your pack
Youd be surprised how a heavy
pack can affect cornering or
when riding steeper chutes and
descents. If you dont want to
remove it, make sure the pack
is snug against your body and
doesnt roll around.
Get low
Lowering your COG (centre of gravity) is a big help when trying to go
fast through corners. You can hunker down with your saddle high but
the only way to really get low is to drop the saddle. A dropper post
is indispensable but failing that t a QR collar and use it. Also dont
muck about, really exaggerate it, get you chest down and try and get
you hips lower than your hands.
Creative lines
Once youve learnt how to get your wheels off the ground you can
start choosing different lines, simply because you can jump over roots
and rocks rather than having to ride round them. Look for quicker and
drier lines off to the side of the trail, and even go the long way round if
it means a better line into a root section or drop off.
Apex the corners
A lot of riders recommend
cutting the apex in turns
sound advice because it makes
the turn as wide as possible.
However there are times when
you should take a different line,
like on an uphill hairpin. If its a
left turn stay over to the right
until about halfway round then
cut across the fall line onto the
inside (left hand) of the trail.
This reduces the steepness of
the trail and is also shorter.
Brake early
Braking mid-turn forces the bike
to sit upright and also creates a
forward weight shift, which
unbalances the bike, suspension and
traction. Once youre in trouble you
often grab more brake, tense up
and that makes it worse. Do all you
braking before a corner, over brake
if you need too.
Trail blindness
When you ride a trail or section
for the rst time you might suffer
from visual overload. With so much
going on its hard to see the line
and even know what to do and
the rst run through is often the
worst. You should use it as a way of
gathering information.
FIX YOUR BIKE The basics
54 55
First things rst
The chain on a new bike is covered with assembly grease and you need to
clean this off and apply a coat of chain lube before riding your bike for the
rst time. The grease just attracts dirt, which can accelerate wear.
WD40 and GT85 are not chain lubes, so buy a
proper bottle of the stuff from a bike shop.
While rotating the cranks backwards
apply the lube to chain. Go round only
once. Wait a few minutes for it to soak
in and then wipe off any excess its
not doing anything on the outside of
the chain.
Mending a puncture
Its essential that you know how to
x a puncture. Make sure all the air
has been expelled from the tube.
Remove any lockrings and valve
caps from the valve. Push the beads
of the tyre to the middle of the rim:
This way the tyre can be removed by
hand but if youre struggling, insert
a tyre lever under the bead. Hook
the other end of the lever around
an adjacent spoke. Use more tyre
levers as necessary. Once youve
removed the rst bead youll be able
to access the tube. Grab the tube
above the valve and pull it from the
valve hole, followed by the rest of
Mending a torn sidewall
If your tyre is in any way ripped
or torn apply a tyre boot (its
like a big sticky patch). The boot
can be cut to size if its only a
small hole. The repaired tyre
should be replaced as soon as is
convenient. If you dont have a
tyre boot handy, you can bodge
one. Tube boxes, energy gel
wrappers and discarded jazz
mags have all been used to
rescue stranded cyclists in
the past but with this method
make sure the boot overlaps
generously because it can slide
about when you inate the tube.
New bike cable problem
Your new bike will have new
gear cables and they will bed
in as you shift. As you use
the gears the inner cable will
stretch, the outer will bed into
the cable end caps and they will
also seat further into the cable
stops. This causes slack in the
system and the gears to jump.
Now is the time to take up a
little bit of the slack in the inner
cable. A half (anti-clockwise)
turn on the barrel adjuster
should be enough. Check the
gears shift smoothly up and
down. Repeat as necessary.
Bedding in you pads
Its not always necessary but
its always a good idea to bed in
new brake pads. This hardens
the surface of the pads, which
means theyll last longer, and
also transfers a small amount
of the pad material to the rotor,
improving friction. If your rst
ride is in the wet this is essential
as grit and mud can eat through
pads in one ride.
Find a short incline, get up a
bit of speed and do about half a
dozen hard stops locking both
brakes. If you experience any
rotor rub reset the pistons as
outlined below.
Brake noise
Sometimes
disc brakes
squeal in the
wet, which
is often down to the
pad compound, but now
and again the pads can become
contaminated. Most of the time
this is from over-spray from
chain lube and other lubricants.
Avoid handling the rotor your
hands will be oily. Finally, if you
have removed the pads make a
note of their orientation and put
them out of harms way.
Pad contamination
Weve tried various methods
to clean up contaminated
pads: soaking them in disc
rotor cleaner, meths, isopropyl
alcohol and even set the pads
alight to try and burn away the
contaminating oils it rarely
works. Replacement and
prevention is the best option.
If you contaminate the rotor,
it can be cleaned with a good
quality disc brake cleaner.
Changing a gear cable
Shift the gear to the smallest cog
and smallest chain ring. Cut off
the cable end cap and pull the
cable out of the outer cable and
shifter. Remove the end caps and
check for straightness. Check the
outer cable for rust and damage.
Replace both if necessary.
Its not necessary to lube the
outer as its Teon lined but if its
dirty you may have to. Wind the
barrel adjuster on the shifter all
the way in, then out one full turn.
Thread the new cable into the
shifter; look inside to see the exit
hole. Feed it into the outer and
down to the derailleur; secure it
with the clamp bolt. Cut off the
excess to within three inches of
the clamp t an end cap. Run
through the gears and increase or
decrease cable tension as above.
MEND IT
OR BIN IT?
There are times when a
tube is not worth xing. If
you have a big star shaped
blow-out, its ripped or the
puncture is too close to the
valve stem then its new
tube time.
the tube.
By lining up the valve you can
nd the position of the puncture in
the tyre and the thing that caused it,
if its still there.
Fit the new tube and tyre
being careful not to nip the
inner tube. Over inate the
tyre to 50 or even 60psi so
both beads seat correctly.
Remembering to reduce
the pressure to your desired
reading again before riding.
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Basic xes
Easy xes like this are not difcult; they just take a bit of
practice try and master all these quick jobs and youll
spend more time riding, less time walking
FIX YOUR BIKE The basics
56 57
Resetting the disc
brake pistons
If you have the wheels out of your
frame and press the brake lever by
accident it can push the pads out
every so slightly, causing them to
rub on the rotor. Resetting the
pads and pistons is easy just
put something like a knife (not a
screwdriver, it could cause damage)
between the pads and wiggle them
back in. Ret the wheel and pump
the brake a couple of times so the
pads touch the rotor and retract
again. There should be no need to
realign the caliper.
Realigning your disc brake
Occasionally you might have to
re-align the caliper because youve
removed it or it wasnt set up very
well when you got the bike. Start by
resetting the pistons, then loosen the
caliper mounting bolts so you can
move the caliper by hand. Centre the
caliper over the disc if the caliper
is a two-piece it will have a line down
the middle that you can use as a
guide. Tighten the bolts and pull
the brake lever gently to move the
recessed piston/s out of their bores.
Then loosen the caliper bolts again
and pull the brake once more.
Without releasing the lever
torque the caliper bolts to the
manufacturers recommended
setting, usually around 9nm. Both
pistons should be an equal distance
from the rotor and rub is eliminated.
Bent rotor
Now and again you can ding the
rotor, which causes it to tinkle on
the pads. The easy way to x it is to
give it a slight tweak with a adjust-
able spanner, set to the thickness
of the rotor (although you can get
a proper tool for this). If the ding is
only slight you can tap the rotor with
a soft-faced mallet this is a trick
weve seen several mechanics use.
If the rotor is really badly bent or
warped just replace it.
3 chains, 1 cassette
Being metal on metal the chain
and cassette on your bike will
eventually wear out. However,
if you replace the chain more
often then you can make the
cassette last longer and since
its three times the price of the
chain youll also save money.
There are no hard and fast
rules for how often you should
do this because it depends
on use, the quality of the two
components, how often youve
cleaned them and whether you
tend to bang along in one gear,
which can accelerate the wear
on a single sprocket. Most bike
shops have a tool called a chain
checker, which measures the
chain wear and should give you
a good idea on the lifespan.
wed recommend replacing
the chain after a hard winter
then maybe again later in
the summer.
Last thing at night
I cant stress this enough, keep
your bike clean. It costs hardly
anything but itll be easier to work
on and you have an opportunity to
spot any potential problems. Once
a month degrease and re-lube the
chain, remove the seatpost and
apply fresh grease and its also
worth dismantling the headset and
sorting that too. Lastly, a nice bit
of frame polish will stop mud and
gunk sticking to the bike and make
it look like a million dollars.
Puncture/snake bite
See the procedure previously
(page 54).
Broken chain
Carry a chain
tool and
a power
link. No
link?
Split
the chain
as normal with your chain tool
but dont push the rivet all the
way through, just lever the chain
apart. Once youve removed the
damaged links turn the chain
around so the exposed rivet is on
the outside; itll be easier to use
the chain tool. Holding the ends
of the chain together will make it
easier to join use a bent spoke
or zip-tie. No tools? Beg, borrow
or steal or youre walking home.
Bent derailleur hanger
This
is a
sacri-
cial
piece of
aluminium
between the rear
derailleur and
frame. If its bent
you can lever it
back by holding the
derailleur but go easy
as you can snap of the hanger
if you go too far. Replace the
hanger as soon as possible.

Stripped freewheel
Weve seen riders tie the cassette
sprockets to the spokes to make
a xed wheel. To do this you will
need several ties and it will be a
struggle riding smoothly but if
youre some distance from home
this is better than walking.
Saddle rail failure
Tie the shell onto the rails with
an inner tube or that gaffa tape
youre wrapped round you tubes.
Failing that wrap a semi-inated
inner tube round the exposed
rails and hope for the best.
Seatpost snapped/
clamp bolt loss
If you snap the post at the seat
clamp you can remove the stump
and ret the post. Failing that ride
home with just the bare frame.
Leaking valve
On new forks and shocks the core
in the centre of the valve can
work loose, causing an air leak.
A valve core removal tool is best
but theyre hard to come by on
the trail. In an emergency use
a thin multi-plier (Gerber,
Leatherman) or a set of needle-
nose pliers.
Mechanicals are a sad consequence of riding. The most common is a puncture,
followed by a snapped chain or bent or damaged rear derailleur. A word of warning
though, if youve made repairs nurse you bike back to the car.
Broken rear mech
If its really gone then
untangle the chain and
either loop it round one
of the big sprockets
and outer chain ring or
get your chain tool out
and shorten it. If you do
that run the chain on the
middle ring. Remove the
derailleur and knot the
cable outer round the
frame. Lastly make sure
you nd both the jockey
wheels (and the tiny
bolts) as they cost extra
money to replace.
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
INSPIRATION Where to ride
58 59
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Where to ride
Even a scrappy bit of land at the back of your house can be an amazing place to
ride, and thats the beauty of mountain biking you dont have to go far to nd
challenging terrain to test your skill and nerve. Travel a bit though, and there are
some fantastic places to ride in the UK and abroad, and the following is just a avour
Bridleways
Mountain bikers have access to tens
of thousands of miles of bridleway
in the UK and while we have to
share these with other users (like
equestrians) you never know
what youre going to get. Some
are simply muddy farms tracks
along eld edges but others offer
stunning views, epic climbs and
hair-raising descents.
Trail centres
Trail centres are a UK invention
and are usually situated in Forestry
Commission woodland. Here youll
nd several all-weather tracks that
are graded according to ability and
way-marked, so all the hard work of
navigation is done for you. Its free
to ride but you pay for parking, and
theres often a caf, showers and
sometimes a bike shop at the trail
head. For a comprehensive guide
to 50 of the best trail centres in the
UK check out the mbrTrail Centres
Ultimate Guide.
INSPIRATION Where to ride
60 61
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH
Natural rides
Although way-marked routes and
all weather surfaces are popular
plenty of riders like to go natural.
You have to keep you wits about
you, respond to the changing
conditions and terrain and even
have to nd your own path but the
pay off is more than worth it. Its
pure, raw and rewarding.
Overseas
There is riding everywhere, on
every continent, every country and
probably every mountain range. For
gravity riders its got to be Whistler
or the Alps. Trail and cross country
riders its Moab, Colorado, Oregon
and Sedona; to name just four USA
destinations. Add in all the races and
events and you probably could go
on a riding holiday every year for
the rest of your life and never do it
all. Theyre all out there, so what are
you waiting for?