2005 2009 Mustang GT Single Turbo System

Whats in the box? The kit comes in multiple boxes. The comp turbo comes directly from comp. A box
for the fuel system and injectors and the kit, hardware and components come in their own boxes. Here
are some pictures of the component:
Hotside and coldside piping and intercooler.








Installation Tip Guide
This guide is designed to help give you tips on the install and a rough guide that will answer most
questions on doing the install. This is not a step by step instruction but we do try to cover everything
that we can on the install to make sure you are not guessing on what you are doing. We highly
recommend reading over the install tips several times before you do the install so you know that you are
prepared and able to cover the whole install yourself. Also helps make a plan so you know what order
and so you dont end up working backwards on any of the steps. This system is designed for racing or
off road applications only.
1. READ THE FULL PACKET BEFORE BEGINNING. YOU MIGHT FIND ITS EASIER TO INSTALL IN A
DIFFERENT ORDER OR TO BE AWARE OF THE WAY THE KIT FULLY INSTALLS. On 3 Performance LLC will
not be responsible for any accident occurred during the install/assembly while following this install
sheet. The installer assumes all responsibility for following the direction in the following packet. This is
to be used for informational purposes only. From the time the kit is installed, the owner of the car is
completely liable for the car equipped with the kit. This is to be used for OFF-ROAD USE ONLY. This
packet is to be used for informational purposes only and use your best judgment when doing the
installation. It only will fit one way, email On3Performance@aol.com if you need any additional photos
to help with the install.
2. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY
3. When getting started on your turbo kit install, you can begin by removing some of the stock
parts. The mid pipe can be taken off, front bumper, top radiator hose, and all intake piping up to the
throttle body. Every other step, sit back and take a deep breath, maybe grab your drink and relax. Take
it step by step, it always seems like something isnt going to work and in the end, everything is all good.
There is a lot of plumbing going where Ford never designed exhaust to be ran.
4. During the manufacturing process, debris can accumulate on the inside of the intercooler piping.
Its ideal to ensure nothing is sucked into your engine to thoroughly rinse the inside of the piping and
check for any burrs before installed. Also if you do this now, it will be dried out and ready to be installed
when you get to that step.
5. Transfer your oxygen sensors to your two header pipes that connect to them. The driver side
may need extended so either use a o2 extension or else just cut and splice in wire to extend them 7-8.
6. Since the 3v kit doesnt require you to swap to a tubular K-member, you can instantly get
started on the tubing install. Starting with the passenger side header pipe,(2 pipe with the 2 bolt flat
flange and flex pipe section) put a little bead of high temp copper RTV around the flange and bolt it up.
It will run directly under the transmission and nearly touch the bottom but thats just to keep the
ground clearance to the max. You can take some of the header wrap to this section in order to make
sure it doesnt rattle if close to touching. ***From here on out, all hotside connections you are going to
want to leave slightly loose. There needs to be adjustment and this is key to get everything installed in
there and adjusted properly. Also, to prevent any exhaust leaks, you can use small beads of high temp
copper RTV between v-band connections and on the turbo flange to prevent any sort of exhaust leak.
One other tip is that we normally pull the studs out of the manifolds and use just a nut and bolt to hold
the pipes to the driver-side manifold. If you dont, sometimes the flange will bottom out before you
have it completely tightened against the ball and socket flange.
7. Next there is almost a ? shaped pipe with a loose flange, this is the pipe that connects to the
driver-side manifold and loops around and points toward the front of the car. You can install this next
and leave it slightly loose as you will need the adjustability to get everything connected.
8. With both manifold pipes bolted up, you can get the 2.5 v-band and bolt the 2 header pipes
together so they are merged. Once again, snug the v-band up but just leave it slightly loose so you have
a little play and adjustment.
9. Before moving any further, its better to tap the front of the oil pan before any more tubing is
installed. Once the next two sections are installed, its going to make it impossible to tap. Go to
www.vortechsuperchargers.com and look at there Mustang 3v supercharger install directions to view
the exact position to punch the pan. The pan bung is 3/8 pipe thread and you will need to run a tap
though with a good amount of grease on it to catch the shavings. After threading the bung into the pan,
it cant hurt to put a small amount of RTV around the thread area where it meets the pan. That way you
can be sure that it doesnt seep any oil.





10. The next pipe is one of the shorter section 3 v-banded pipes that is slightly ovalized. This will fit
very tight and actually go through the control arm. Its slightly flattened as well in order to allow us to
bring the pipe up slightly to increase ground clearance.









11. To make things easy, we normally bolt the next pipe, the 3 pipe with the turbo flange to the
turbo before installing on the car. You will also need to loosen the 6 bolts on the compressor housing
and exhaust housing. This allows the turbo housings to be clocked and angled properly. The
compressor outlet will point basically straight down to the ground. At this time, you should also install
the oil feed and drain plates to the turbo with the supplied hardware. Also its ideal to attach the oil
drain hose as once the other tubing is in there, its next to impossible to access this area and bolt on
later.




12. The bolts for the turbo are different, we have studs we include for the bottom where its too
tight and wouldnt allow for a bolt to work. Sometimes we will grind part of the lip of the nut included
with the stud to make it not sit directly on the weld. Its not necessary but we just do it for a more flush
mount. Then you have the 2 7/16s gold bolts and prevailing locking nuts for the opposite side of the
flange where clearance isnt an issue.

13. Before you can install the next section with the turbo attached, you need to relocated the sway
bar. You have 2 laser cut flat brackets with 3 holes cut into it. You will remove the 4 nuts that bolt the
sway bar mount to the front of the car and slip the bracket over the studs the sway bar mounts to and
you will see there is a hole that will hang lower. You can put the nut on the very top stud to secure the
bracket from falling out. Next, you lower the sway bar by attaching the top bracket hole to the lower
stud and you will see the lower mount hole lines up with our pre-laser cut hole in the bracket. Use the 2
25mm long 10mm bolts and nuts to secure the sway bar. You will just reuse the stock nuts to secure
the top of the bracket now. May sound confusing but will be clear once working on the car and
everything is in front of you.
14. This is a good time to call a friends or have a 2nd set of hands around for this step as its
convenient to keep one person holding and one person attaching v-bands. Lower the assembly in from
the top with the turbo bolted on while your helper attach the v-band to the connection on the feed pipe
coming forward. Make sure during this step when the turbo is finally mounted up that the center
cartridge(the section where the feed and oil drain plates bolt to) is vertical. That is the most important
thing so that the oil drains properly. The feed pipe will run almost against the sway bar and this is
normal, room is just very limited and you will see we have both the downpipe and feedpipe flattened
slightly to allow more clearance.
15. The next pipe on the hotside to install is the 3 downpipe with the wastegate flange on it. You
will once again use a thin bead of rtv(if you choose) around the v-band and attach it to the exhaust
housing. It will once again have a flatten our area as it passes by the sway bar to try and help with
clearance. ***Just be sure still you are leaving the v-bands slightly loose where they are able to still
have the pipes rotate in them. This is just a reminder as its so important to no tighten till the end to
leave everything adjustableSorry to be repetitive but its crucial and wont adjust up properly without
doing so.














16. Moving on, you will need to now locate a similar shape pipe to the other one that goes though
the opposite side a-arm. It also again has a flattened out section to help give more clearance under the
control arm. This pipe goes under the control arm and the up through the center toward the starter.
Now you are to the last hotside pipe that will connect into the stock catback. There is a support rod that
will also slip into the stock exhaust rubber hanger for support. Use your stock catback exhaust bands
and connect the merge to your C-B.
17. Now its time to go back to the front and pull everything around so you can get the wastegate
mounted up. Check back at the photo to show how the fire ring installs, its the small circular spacer
that fits against the actual valve. The more narrow part goes against the valve and will seat against it
slightly pushing the valve up. Hardware for this is included in your hardware bag. You can also install
the turbo support bracket as well. There is a stud coming off the top corner of the timing cover with a
nut on it. Remove the nut and the thicker of the 2 L brackets is used to support the turbo. Bolt that to
the stud and then you can rotate the turbo housing so the bracket bolts to the compressor housing. You
will actually use the compressor bolt to attach the two.
18. Normally we will still leave everything only snugged up till all the cold side is installed. You can
move on to the cold side and DO NOT start by installing the intercooler. You can, but you will have to
leave things loose so you can have adjustment. Normally we start at the outlet of the compressor and
work our way toward the inlet of the intercooler. Then move to the throttle body and work our way
back to the outlet of the intercooler. The inlet of the intercooler on this kit is the lower inlet and the
outlet will be the upper port. Most of the issues are here when people mount the intercooler first and
then say our piping is off. This way if you run the tubing first, you will know exactly where the
intercooler must sit. The brackets for the intercooler mounting are in the kit and also laser cut. Its a 2-
piece bracket and you will find the hardware in the supplied kit. The main bracket bolts to the hood
hinge and use the actual hood hinge bolt to secure the upper portion.
19. The top intercooler port(outlet) will use the 90 degree elbow and point downwards. The other
pipes are pretty self-explanatory and you will use the 2.5 3 reducer where the outlet pipe goes
through the inner fender by the ABS unit. You may have to loosen the bracket on the ABS module to
allow the pipe to fit up through. Its very tight but its the way it has to be since we didnt want to
require any cutting on the car.

20. At this point you can go back though the entire hotside and cold side and tighten everything
down as well as the bolts on the turbo housings if you havent already.
21. Going to the oil supply part of the kit, everything for this part of the install is in the bag sealed
with the stainless braided hose. You need to start by removing the oil pressure sensor near the oil filter.
There is a brass block with one male port and 2 females. The threaded part will now go directly into the
block and the sensor installs next on the port that runs perpendicular. Next using the 90-degree elbow
and one of the to 1/8 reducers, thread into the end port of the block. This can be tricky and has to
install in that order so everything will fit and will take some thinking, its tricky. We do include a photo of
this in the install photo page. Then your actual stainless hose will attach to the elbow coming out of the
block and run the line up to the turbo. Dont torque the line down yet because it needs attached at the
top feed plate before finally securing it down. Be sure to keep the line away from any moving parts and
anything that will get hot. To see the fitting setup at the feed plate, see the photos below. No need to
over tighten the hose, if you crank down on it, you can damage the hose. It doesnt take much to seal
the connection keep from leaking.

22. As for the drain, you can cut the hose coming from the turbo drain plate to length attaching it
to the bung in the pan. The drain is essential to the longevity of the turbo and keeping it in great
working condition.
23. Once the oil lines are squared away, its time to move on to the upper cooling pipe. As you see
we just cut the section of the hose where it mounts to the port on the motor and coming out of the
radiator. The metal radiator tube is included and we also supply you new hose clamps in the kit to
attach and secure this pipe. Also at this time you will find the Thermo-cool insulator tube. You can use
this to cover the overflow tube that runs close to the turbo and along the fan in the front. You
disconnect the hose from the overflow and slip this sleeve over it. Normally we will also use a few
plastic ties to pull it away from anything hot and against the fan housing to prevent any premature hose
damage. Be sure to keep an eye on this and be sure its always secure, your downpipe, turbo, etc will
burn this hose if you dont secure it out of the way.

24. Instal maf meter or hpx/ba5000 in the welded on flange.A lso since your wiring may be short,
you may end up having to extend those 6 maf wires so they will reach the new blow through meter
position.
25. Also you will notice your stock location of the power steering reservoir will have to change.
There is already a hole in the driver side strut tower and we use the thinner L shaped bracket to
relocate the tank. There is a supplied 6mm bolt to secure the bracket to the car and also the larger allen
bolt to secure the reservoir to the bracket. The hoses will now be too short and you will fine 2 3/8
stainless extensions and 2- rubber hoses. This will allow you to extend the hoses to now reach the
reservoir in its new location.
26. Install the injectors and fuel system.
27. Now basically the complete kit is squared away, you can install the wastegate, blow off valve
and vacuum lines to each. Connect the banjo fitting to the lower/side port on the wastegate as well
before installing as it would be very difficult to do so after its on the car. The top port will remain open
and that is normal. As for vacuum supply, we supply you the parts to tee off the vacuum source right
along the driver side fuel rail. You will have the vacuum hose, tees and barbs needed and run a line to
the wastegate and one to the blow off valve.
28. WASTEGATE SPRINGS: There aredifferent springs. The stock wastegate normally is right around
6psi. This can vary so once you get it on your car, do a partial pull to see what boost level you are
working with. Then if you need more, the yellow spring can add around 2psi, red 3psi, and blue 5psi.
Once again, these are all estimates and you need to test with each to verify what boost it makes on your
application







Disclamer: This packet is for educational purposes we will not be held responsible for any damage to
the vehicle or persons due to improperly installing the product, personal injury or death. Products are
inspected and strict quality control is enforced before kits are shipped out and in perfect working order.
The kits are to be installed by professional mechanics and all warranties are voided unless this is
followed. Purchaser of the kit assumes all responsibility and will be liable for the car and anyone
involved in the use of this kit. Our warranty covers the hotside of the kit for 1 year and comp covers the
turbo for 1 year as well.