Rearing Technology

1.1.
INTRODUCTION
Silkworms are reared for obtaining cocoons which form the raw
material for producing raw silk. The technique of raw silk making was
discovered several million years ago. The cocoons are softened using hot
water and the silk filament is drawn continuously. This uniform thick and
strong thread is used for the manufacturing of fine silk fabrics. Silk reeling
is the final and purely commercial phase of sericulture. It is concerned
with unwinding of the silk filaments of the cocoon.
The term raw silk (Grege) in industry or commerce is commonly
understood to denote mulberry raw silk. It is the compact untwisted and
undegummed silk thread that is formed by combining the required number
of silk filaments drawn from as many separate cocoons by a special tech-
nique called Reeling. This includes a series of skilled operations to trans-
form raw material (cocoons) into a fine, continuous silk filament of great
length. Unlike other aspects of sericulture, reeling needs constant attention
and care, since the process of reeling the cocoon filaments break continu-
ally and reeler must properly attach fresh filaments to make a continuous
filament. If not, the reeled silk results in the abrupt occurrence of thin
lengths.
The building in which cocoons are reeled for the production of raw
silk is called a filature. It is carried with sophisticated automatic machines,
to ensure production of raw silk of desired qualities. The filature concept is
seen in developed countries where the raw material (cocoons) are of supe-
rior quality. But in other countries (where cocoon quality is not good) highly
efficient multiend reeling machines with auxiliary equipment are installed
and rational techniques of production are adopted. Besides these cottage
industries are also found in the remote rural areas of cocoon production.
These machines consist simple mechanism, simple methods of reeling.
The appliances are either foor-powered or hand-driven, with simple meth-
ods of raw silk production. The cottage reeling industry has neither set
patterns of organization not standardized equipment and production tech-
niques. But the aim of reeling in the cottage sector is always to obtain the
maximum yield of raw silk from cocoons at the minimum cost of material
and labour. It also produces raw silk which would satisfy all classes of silk
weavers and other pure silk industries.
1
SILK REELING
2 Reeling Technology
The importance of reeling industry is well established long ago and
the demand is increasing day by day. Though it is linked with agriculture
sector and industrial sector has good scope for solving unemployment di-
rectly and self employment indirectly. The various aspects of importance of
reeling industry scope and limitations are discussed in this unit.
1.2. IMPORTANCE OF REELING INDUSTRY
The word silk spells luxury and class. Even today, no other fabric
can match it in luster and elegance. The touch of silk on the fingertip evokes
the very thread of history. Over the centuries it has reigned undisputed as
the queen of textiles. Mankind has always loved silk. It is the yarn extruded
by a small caterpillar in a continuous filament as long as nearly one and half
kilometers.
The sericulture industry is agro based and floushing mostly in rural
areas. More than 50 per cent of silk is reeled by a villager using country
charka which forms the cottage industry. Silk provides much needed work
in several developing and labour rich countries. India has no exception for
this statement. More than 10 million farmers raise silk in China today. India
is one of the first three silk producing countries provides employment and
self-employment to more than five and half million people. Among this
reeling sector is a part. Since silk is a material of limited production ac-
counting for les than 0.2 per cent of the total world production of all textile
fibres. In the group of natural fibres. Which comprises cotton, wool and
silk, production of silk amounts for 0.3 per cent only. It is of interest to note
that despite enormous increase in the production of man-made fabric in
recent years of global silk production has maintained steady levels.
Silk was discovered in China and the earliest authentic reference to
silk is to be found in the Chronicles of Chou-King (2200 B.C.). Since then
silk figured prominently in public ceremonies as a symbol of homage to the
emperors and a elegant wear in festivals, marriages and important occa-
sions. Since its discovery the importance was recognized and still the de-
mand is increasing for this natural fibre. It is clear from the literature that
silk had a prestigious place in the culture and commerce of India even in
the pre-vedic times. Indian history shows clear evidences of different silk
fabric use from vedic period. The word Subhavasthothareeya in
Laxmisookthi and Sweethambaradhare Devinanalankara Bhushithe
in Laxmisthothram indicate silk usage during those days. Further mulberry
importance was evident from Ithihas and Vedas. Besides these different
words of Rugveda i.e. Urna meaning Silk; Manurmat meaning Cloth
made of silk dates back to 140 BC. According to some historians, raw silk
was exported from India to Rome during the reign of Kanishka in 58 BC
probably through silk road. Artisand engaged in silk production and weav-
ing were patronized by emperors, kings J agirdars and other rich people
through Indian history. In the pre-British period it flourished in the states
of Bengal, Mysore and Kashmir.
India has a traditional reputation for a particular kind of goods from
ancient times. Indian made silk textiles are popular all over the world. This
includes Banaras and Surat silks with masterly brocades; the soft-as-a sigh
silks of Karnatakal the tie and dye magic of the Patola from Gujarat; the
Ikats of Orissa; delicate silks of Kashmir;Sheer brilliant fabrics of
Bandhej;temple silks of Kanchipuram and Tanjavur in Tamilnadu;
Dharmavaram and Pochampally silks of A.P. where master craftsman blend
skillfully the art of India with the smoothness of the silk yarn to produce
works of supreme creativity.
1.2.1. Uses of Silk
Generally silk term speaks about mulberry silk. It si soft smooth,
lustrous and holds a prestigious place among textile fibres and known as
Queen of Textiles. Silk is sold and exported as raw silk yarn. It is woven
into fabrics by powerloom or handloom and sold directly as fabrics or as
readymade garments. Article made of silk i.e., ties, scarves, soles, shawls,
furnishings and carpets have always had a good ready market. Knitted
materials from silk fibres i.e., socks, stocking are very costly and posses
good market.
Other variety fabric materials like dupions, plain silk, deluxe, satin,
chiffon, chinnons, crepe, broacades are made from mulberry silk. Cosy
furnishing materials are made form hand-spun mulberry silk. Reeling waste,
bad cocoons are used to make spun silk fabrics. The waste silks are hand
spun into matka, katan, feshua (jatan or J atam, J hut) and noil yarns. Ar-
ticles made from waste silk also have a good export market.
Silk Reeling 3
Among non-mulberry silks tasar silk fabrics in exotic designs are
produced by handlooms. They are Gicha-noil, tasar plain, cotton-tasar blend,
tasar-mulberry blend, peduncle fabric. Muga silk occupies sarees and dress
material production. Eri spun silk is used for dress materials and the coarse
variety for making chaddar, shawls and quilts.
Trimoulters silk yarn is used as package material in pencil industry
and for making talcum powder puffs. Silk is used as raw material for pre-
paring sound-free gears for making precision machinery. In France 22-24
denier silk is used in tyre manufacturing to have a longer life span than
rubber tyres. Parachutes are made from 13-15 denier silk fiber. These para-
chutes were used in World War-II. Cosy and soft sky jackets, comforters
and sleeping bags are also made from silk. The silk gut used in surgery for
internal suturing is made from silk glands. The silk glands are dissected out
and put in warm water and pulled at two ends to yield a fibre of uniform
thickness. This protein is auto absorbable and need not be removed after
wound healing. Silk grafts have been used successfully to replace cut arter-
ies.
Silkworm can be reared in laboratory fgor genetic studies. This in-
sect was proved as a good laboratory tool for any kind of experiment. Lot
of research work is under progress on different lines of biotechnology, ge-
netics using silkworms in J apan.
1.2.2. Raw Silk Production
The synthetic fibres had only as short period of supremary. Among
all natural fibres silk does not produce andu skin allergies. Its luster, smooth
tecture, its natural affinity towards dyes, its wetting properties, its thermal
properties and other physical properties are unmatched in any of the other
natural or man made fibre. Keeping in view of the demand for raw silk for
various uses the Government of India took certain steps but did not capture
a good share in exporting. The products like ties, scarves, chadder, carpets,
furnishing are exported from India.
In India silk trade was started in 1670. Tipu Sultan established the
Mysore Silk Industry and J ames Anderson introduced sericulture in the
Madras Presidency. The government created Sericulture Departments in
Karnataka ( 1911 ) and Madras ( 1919 ). Then formation of Mysore Silk
Wearing Factory (1932), Mysore Spun Silks (1936), The Silk Condition-
ing and Testing House at Mysore (1942) and Sericulture Research Station
at Berhampore (1943) helped India Sericulture Industry to make rapid de-
velopment. Then after World War-II Indian Silk Industry were at the high
demand for manufacturing of parachute and powder bags. This downtrend
created Silk Development Directorate in 1945 and organized an All India
Silk Conference in 1947 and worked for the establishment of Central Silk
Board (CSB) at Bangalore which was estabilhed in 1949 after the Parlia-
mentary Act. The board is under the control of Ministry of Textiles, Govt.
of India. The CSB functions to promote the Sericulture Industry in every
line including the industry to meet global demands. It has established In-
ternational Center for Training and Research in Tropical Sericulture
(ICTRIS) in 1980. later launched the National Sericulture Project (NSP)
aided by World Bank and Swiss Development Co-operation. As a result of
this project 32 silk worm seed production centers, 34 Basic seed farms and
5 cold storage units were established besides 80 Technical Service Centers
and seven Demonstration-cum-Training Centres. CSB has set up four re-
search institutes. Since then the CSB is concentrating on different angles
of Sericulture especially in reeling and improved the production of raw
silk (Fig. 1.1.)
Silk Reeling 5
Fig. 1.1. Raw Silk Production
1.2. SCOPE AND LIMITATIONS
Reeling industry is an ideal cottage industry. More than 50 per cent
of silk is reeled by a village using country Charka and contributing to cot-
tage industry. The system of cottage reeling is well suited to rural condi-
tions with its low initial investment, village made simple appliances, labour
with a little skill. Further the government is supplying the materials needed
at subsidized rates even at the very low initial expenditure. Further almost
all the states have introduced different schemes for financial, technical and
material assistance. Besides this Nationalised Banks, Co-operative Societ-
ies and other funding agencies are extending loan facilities for all activities
of sericulture.
India has the unique distinction of being the only country in the
World which cultures all the known commercial varieties of silk i.e. Mul-
berry, Tropical and Temperate Tasar, Eri and Muga. Out of these India holds
the World monopoly in the production of Muga-the Golden Yellow Silk.
The sericulture industry is one of the most labour intensive sectors of the
India economy comining both agriculture and industry. Its operations pro-
vide means of livelihood to a large section of the population. Of which
reeling industry contributes more fot employment as reeler, twister, weaver,
hand spinners of silkwaste, traders, by product collector. Further it is turned
as highly remunerative cash crop in a short span of time with minimum
investment and became successful in attracting the new entrepreneurs.
Among all the activities of sericulture the reeling sector gets 43% share
distributed at all angles (Fig. 1.2) it provides whole time and part-time
employment to rural people of the country, majority of them belonging to
economically weaker sections, Schedule Castes, Schedule Tribes as well as
adivas (tribals).
Fig. 1.2. Distribution of Income from Sale of Soft Silk Fabrics of 60 gm/mtr.
The income generating sources in sericulture are open in
a. Production of Reeling Cocoons
b. Production of Raw Silk.
c. Utilisation of bye-product viz., Pupae and Silkwaste
The demand for silk fabric isincreasing since its invention. India is
very poor producer of raw silk to meet international standards. In India raw
silk production is overtaken by silk waste. India produces annually about
180 tonnes of spun silk yarn and 130 tonnes of noil yarn besides hand spun
yarn. A wide range of products made of these waste silks such as dress
materials and furnishings which are having considerable export demand.
Keeping in view of increasing demand India has to work out for improve-
ment of these sectors for further more employment generation as well as
export business. Silk weaving is largely undertaken on handlooms which
required no license. There is need for better mechanization of handlooms.
On the otherhand silk waste processing and production of spun silk yarn is
a scheduled industry which falls under schedule 23(4) of Industrial Devel-
opment Regulation (IDR) Act, 1951 which requires a Industrial License
under Ministry of Industry, Government of India, New Delhi.
Silk reeling, using country charka is of low quality but it contrib-
utes more to the raw silk produce. The reasons for low quality silk in coun-
try charka are as follows;
1. No sorting of cocoons. Defective cocoons are also reeled.
2. No cocoon mixing
3. Improper deflossing.
4. As there is no jettebout the dirt, gum spots etc., can be elimi-
nated. However, the charka has Tharpatti but cannot function
like button or jettebout.
This low quality raw silk hampers the export market. The main aim
and objective of silk reeling is to export the raw silk for which reeling
process is to be undertaken by technical hands on standard reeling ma-
chines. Silk reeling industry equipped with improved machines like multiend
reeling machines or automatic reeling machines have wide prospects. This
aspect of sericulture is to be given proper attention to improve the reeling
Silk Reeling 7
machines, training the technical persons to operate latest machines, pro-
duction of quality cocoons to reelout on automatic and semi-automatic reel-
ing machines. There by process of reeling as well as raw silk quality im-
proves and also gives good foreign exchange. Country charka has to be
improved by providing button. The reelers are to be given training to adopt
themselves for latest machines. Reeling industry must be given priority for
loans by Central Silk Board (CSB), State Government departments through
their directorate, NABARD, Co-operative Banks, Nationalised and
Grameena Banks. Training is to be imparted by State and Central
Government Schemes, such as TRISEM, D.R.D.A., Nehru Yuva Kendras.
According to the latest statistics available on income per day is Rs.
45.16 in the reeling machines compared with Rs. 10.36 in country charka.
Similary income that comes by selling raw reeled on country charka is very
less when compared to silk reeled out on improved or semi-automatic reel-
ing machines.
In India semi-automatic and automatic reeling machines are con-
fined to certain states and practically they are not being used because the
green cocoons which are available cannot suit to feed such machines. Thus
lot of importance is to be given to evolve new races to suit the latest equip-
ment so as to get good cash returns. Reeling industry needs lot of technical
persons which is now lacking. Therefore training programme are to be
launched to benefit the reelers.
SUMMARY
Reeling is to be carried with proper skill and good machines.
The aim of cottage reeling industry is to obtain the maximum yield
of raw silk from cocoons at the minimum cost of material and labour.
No fiber (natural or synthetic) can match silk in luster and elegance.
Sericulture is alongbased and flourishing mostly in rural areas and
contributes 50 per cent of raw produced on country charka.
Silk had a prestigious place in the culture and commerce of India in
the Pre-Vedic times. Its usage was also coined in Itihas and Vedas
(Rugveda).
India is famous for Banaras, Surat Silks, Tie and Dye, Patola, Ikats,
Kashmir, Karanataka, Bandhej, Kanchipuram, Tajavur,
Dharmavaram, Pochampally Silk Fabrics.
Silk is known as Queen of Textiles. It is sold as raw silk, fabric or
as readymade garments.
Reeling waste, bad cocoons are used to make spun silk fabrics. The
waste silk is made into matka, katan, feshua, noil yarn which have
very good export market.
Silk is used for fabric power, package material, sound free gears,
tyre manufacturing, parachutes, sky jackets, sleeping bags,
confortors, suturing material.
Silkworm is very much useful for genetic experiments in biotech-
nology.
Silk trade was started in 1670 when Tipu Sultan established the
Mysore Silk Industry.
The central Government has taken lot of steps for promoting the
sericulture activities, and established Central Silk Board in 1949 at
Bangalore.
CSB has setup research stations, cold storages, seed production
centres, basic seed farms, technical service centres, demonstration-
cum-training centres, certificate and diploma courses.
The government has introduced different schemes for financial,
technical and material assistance.
India is the only country producing muga the Golden Yellow Silk
in the World.
Reeling industry creates good amount of job, wage, self employ-
ment opportunities to suit rural, economically backward, Sched-
uled Caste and Scheduled Tribes.
Income generating sources of reeling are production of reeling co-
coons, production of raw silk, utilization of bye-products.
Indian raw silk can not reach international standards.
Reeling industry does not require any license. But spun silk yarn
production unit needs a license under schedule 23(4) of IDR Act,
1951.
Silk reeled in country charka is of low quality.
Multiend, filaure, automatic reeling units are better for good qual-
ity raw silk production.
There is need to improve all the infrastructure facilities of reeling
industry to produce quality raw silk of international standards.
Silk Reeling 9
QUESTIONS
I. SHORT QUESTIONS
1. what is the final phase of sericulture industry ?
2. Define raw silk ?
3. Define filature.
4. Define reeling.
5. Mention the characters of the silk.
6. Name some reelig machines.
7. What are the draw backs of country charka ?
8. When and where was silk discovered ?
9. Mention some silk fabrics produced in India.
10. Mention fabric material made from mulberry silk.
11. What are the forms of waste silk
12. Mention tasar silk fabrics.
13. Mention some uses of silk.
14. Mention th silk items exported from India.
15. What is the main function of CSB ?
16. Mention are the outcomes of NSP ?
17. Mention functions of government for promoting sericulture.
18. What are the income generating sources in sericulture ?
19. Mention the act for starting spun silk yarn unit.
20. Mention the beneficiaries of reelign industry.
I. ESSAY QUESTIONS
1. Write briefly about the importance of reeling industry.
2. Detail about the uses of silk.
3. Write about the development of reeling industry.
4. Write about the scope of reeling industry.
5. Reeling is a cottage industry activity - detail the statement.
Silk Reeling 11
1.1. INTRODUCTION
Silkworms are reared for obtaining cocoons which form the raw
material for producing raw silk. The technique of raw silk making was
discovered several million years ago. The cocoons are softened using hot
water and the silk filament is drawn continuously. This uniform thick and
strong thread is used for the manufacturing of fine silk fabrics. Silk reeling
is the final and purely commercial phase of sericulture. It is concerned
with unwinding of the silk filaments of the cocoon.
The term raw silk (Grege) in industry or commerce is commonly
understood to denote mulberry raw silk. It is the compact untwisted and
undegummed silk thread that is formed by combining the required number
of silk filaments drawn from as many separate cocoons by a special tech-
nique called Reeling. This includes a series of skilled operations to trans-
form raw material (cocoons) into a fine, continuous silk filament of great
length. Unlike other aspects of sericulture, reeling needs constant attention
and care, since the process of reeling the cocoon filaments break continu-
ally and reeler must properly attach fresh filaments to make a continuous
filament. If not, the reeled silk results in the abrupt occurrence of thin
lengths.
The building in which cocoons are reeled for the production of raw
silk is called a filature. It is carried with sophisticated automatic machines,
to ensure production of raw silk of desired qualities. The filature concept is
seen in developed countries where the raw material (cocoons) are of supe-
rior quality. But in other countries (where cocoon quality is not good) highly
efficient multiend reeling machines with auxiliary equipment are installed
and rational techniques of production are adopted. Besides these cottage
industries are also found in the remote rural areas of cocoon production.
These machines consist simple mechanism, simple methods of reeling.
The appliances are either foor-powered or hand-driven, with simple meth-
ods of raw silk production. The cottage reeling industry has neither set
patterns of organization not standardized equipment and production tech-
niques. But the aim of reeling in the cottage sector is always to obtain the
maximum yield of raw silk from cocoons at the minimum cost of material
and labour. It also produces raw silk which would satisfy all classes of silk
weavers and other pure silk industries.
1
SILK REELING
The importance of reeling industry is well established long ago and
the demand is increasing day by day. Though it is linked with agriculture
sector and industrial sector has good scope for solving unemployment di-
rectly and self employment indirectly. The various aspects of importance of
reeling industry scope and limitations are discussed in this unit.
1.2. IMPORTANCE OF REELING INDUSTRY
The word silk spells luxury and class. Even today, no other fabric
can match it in luster and elegance. The touch of silk on the fingertip evokes
the very thread of history. Over the centuries it has reigned undisputed as
the queen of textiles. Mankind has always loved silk. It is the yarn extruded
by a small caterpillar in a continuous filament as long as nearly one and half
kilometers.
The sericulture industry is agro based and floushing mostly in rural
areas. More than 50 per cent of silk is reeled by a villager using country
charka which forms the cottage industry. Silk provides much needed work
in several developing and labour rich countries. India has no exception for
this statement. More than 10 million farmers raise silk in China today. India
is one of the first three silk producing countries provides employment and
self-employment to more than five and half million people. Among this
reeling sector is a part. Since silk is a material of limited production ac-
counting for les than 0.2 per cent of the total world production of all textile
fibres. In the group of natural fibres. Which comprises cotton, wool and
silk, production of silk amounts for 0.3 per cent only. It is of interest to note
that despite enormous increase in the production of man-made fabric in
recent years of global silk production has maintained steady levels.
Silk was discovered in China and the earliest authentic reference to
silk is to be found in the Chronicles of Chou-King (2200 B.C.). Since then
silk figured prominently in public ceremonies as a symbol of homage to the
emperors and a elegant wear in festivals, marriages and important occa-
sions. Since its discovery the importance was recognized and still the de-
mand is increasing for this natural fibre. It is clear from the literature that
silk had a prestigious place in the culture and commerce of India even in
the pre-vedic times. Indian history shows clear evidences of different silk
fabric use from vedic period. The word Subhavasthothareeya in
Laxmisookthi and Sweethambaradhare Devinanalankara Bhushithe
in Laxmisthothram indicate silk usage during those days. Further mulberry
importance was evident from Ithihas and Vedas. Besides these different
words of Rugveda i.e. Urna meaning Silk; Manurmat meaning Cloth
made of silk dates back to 140 BC. According to some historians, raw silk
was exported from India to Rome during the reign of Kanishka in 58 BC
probably through silk road. Artisand engaged in silk production and weav-
ing were patronized by emperors, kings J agirdars and other rich people
through Indian history. In the pre-British period it flourished in the states
of Bengal, Mysore and Kashmir.
India has a traditional reputation for a particular kind of goods from
ancient times. Indian made silk textiles are popular all over the world. This
includes Banaras and Surat silks with masterly brocades; the soft-as-a sigh
silks of Karnatakal the tie and dye magic of the Patola from Gujarat; the
Ikats of Orissa; delicate silks of Kashmir;Sheer brilliant fabrics of
Bandhej;temple silks of Kanchipuram and Tanjavur in Tamilnadu;
Dharmavaram and Pochampally silks of A.P. where master craftsman blend
skillfully the art of India with the smoothness of the silk yarn to produce
works of supreme creativity.
1.2.1. Uses of Silk
Generally silk term speaks about mulberry silk. It si soft smooth,
lustrous and holds a prestigious place among textile fibres and known as
Queen of Textiles. Silk is sold and exported as raw silk yarn. It is woven
into fabrics by powerloom or handloom and sold directly as fabrics or as
readymade garments. Article made of silk i.e., ties, scarves, soles, shawls,
furnishings and carpets have always had a good ready market. Knitted
materials from silk fibres i.e., socks, stocking are very costly and posses
good market.
Other variety fabric materials like dupions, plain silk, deluxe, satin,
chiffon, chinnons, crepe, broacades are made from mulberry silk. Cosy
furnishing materials are made form hand-spun mulberry silk. Reeling waste,
bad cocoons are used to make spun silk fabrics. The waste silks are hand
spun into matka, katan, feshua (jatan or J atam, J hut) and noil yarns. Ar-
ticles made from waste silk also have a good export market.
Silk Reeling 3
Among non-mulberry silks tasar silk fabrics in exotic designs are
produced by handlooms. They are Gicha-noil, tasar plain, cotton-tasar blend,
tasar-mulberry blend, peduncle fabric. Muga silk occupies sarees and dress
material production. Eri spun silk is used for dress materials and the coarse
variety for making chaddar, shawls and quilts.
Trimoulters silk yarn is used as package material in pencil industry
and for making talcum powder puffs. Silk is used as raw material for pre-
paring sound-free gears for making precision machinery. In France 22-24
denier silk is used in tyre manufacturing to have a longer life span than
rubber tyres. Parachutes are made from 13-15 denier silk fiber. These para-
chutes were used in World War-II. Cosy and soft sky jackets, comforters
and sleeping bags are also made from silk. The silk gut used in surgery for
internal suturing is made from silk glands. The silk glands are dissected out
and put in warm water and pulled at two ends to yield a fibre of uniform
thickness. This protein is auto absorbable and need not be removed after
wound healing. Silk grafts have been used successfully to replace cut arter-
ies.
Silkworm can be reared in laboratory fgor genetic studies. This in-
sect was proved as a good laboratory tool for any kind of experiment. Lot
of research work is under progress on different lines of biotechnology, ge-
netics using silkworms in J apan.
1.2.2. Raw Silk Production
The synthetic fibres had only as short period of supremary. Among
all natural fibres silk does not produce andu skin allergies. Its luster, smooth
tecture, its natural affinity towards dyes, its wetting properties, its thermal
properties and other physical properties are unmatched in any of the other
natural or man made fibre. Keeping in view of the demand for raw silk for
various uses the Government of India took certain steps but did not capture
a good share in exporting. The products like ties, scarves, chadder, carpets,
furnishing are exported from India.
In India silk trade was started in 1670. Tipu Sultan established the
Mysore Silk Industry and J ames Anderson introduced sericulture in the
Madras Presidency. The government created Sericulture Departments in
Karnataka ( 1911 ) and Madras ( 1919 ). Then formation of Mysore Silk
Wearing Factory (1932), Mysore Spun Silks (1936), The Silk Condition-
ing and Testing House at Mysore (1942) and Sericulture Research Station
at Berhampore (1943) helped India Sericulture Industry to make rapid de-
velopment. Then after World War-II Indian Silk Industry were at the high
demand for manufacturing of parachute and powder bags. This downtrend
created Silk Development Directorate in 1945 and organized an All India
Silk Conference in 1947 and worked for the establishment of Central Silk
Board (CSB) at Bangalore which was estabilhed in 1949 after the Parlia-
mentary Act. The board is under the control of Ministry of Textiles, Govt.
of India. The CSB functions to promote the Sericulture Industry in every
line including the industry to meet global demands. It has established In-
ternational Center for Training and Research in Tropical Sericulture
(ICTRIS) in 1980. later launched the National Sericulture Project (NSP)
aided by World Bank and Swiss Development Co-operation. As a result of
this project 32 silk worm seed production centers, 34 Basic seed farms and
5 cold storage units were established besides 80 Technical Service Centers
and seven Demonstration-cum-Training Centres. CSB has set up four re-
search institutes. Since then the CSB is concentrating on different angles
of Sericulture especially in reeling and improved the production of raw
silk (Fig. 1.1.)
Silk Reeling 5
Fig. 1.1. Raw Silk Production
1.2. SCOPE AND LIMITATIONS
Reeling industry is an ideal cottage industry. More than 50 per cent
of silk is reeled by a village using country Charka and contributing to cot-
tage industry. The system of cottage reeling is well suited to rural condi-
tions with its low initial investment, village made simple appliances, labour
with a little skill. Further the government is supplying the materials needed
at subsidized rates even at the very low initial expenditure. Further almost
all the states have introduced different schemes for financial, technical and
material assistance. Besides this Nationalised Banks, Co-operative Societ-
ies and other funding agencies are extending loan facilities for all activities
of sericulture.
India has the unique distinction of being the only country in the
World which cultures all the known commercial varieties of silk i.e. Mul-
berry, Tropical and Temperate Tasar, Eri and Muga. Out of these India holds
the World monopoly in the production of Muga-the Golden Yellow Silk.
The sericulture industry is one of the most labour intensive sectors of the
India economy comining both agriculture and industry. Its operations pro-
vide means of livelihood to a large section of the population. Of which
reeling industry contributes more fot employment as reeler, twister, weaver,
hand spinners of silkwaste, traders, by product collector. Further it is turned
as highly remunerative cash crop in a short span of time with minimum
investment and became successful in attracting the new entrepreneurs.
Among all the activities of sericulture the reeling sector gets 43% share
distributed at all angles (Fig. 1.2) it provides whole time and part-time
employment to rural people of the country, majority of them belonging to
economically weaker sections, Schedule Castes, Schedule Tribes as well as
adivas (tribals).
Fig. 1.2. Distribution of Income from Sale of Soft Silk Fabrics of 60 gm/mtr.
The income generating sources in sericulture are open in
a. Production of Reeling Cocoons
b. Production of Raw Silk.
c. Utilisation of bye-product viz., Pupae and Silkwaste
The demand for silk fabric isincreasing since its invention. India is
very poor producer of raw silk to meet international standards. In India raw
silk production is overtaken by silk waste. India produces annually about
180 tonnes of spun silk yarn and 130 tonnes of noil yarn besides hand spun
yarn. A wide range of products made of these waste silks such as dress
materials and furnishings which are having considerable export demand.
Keeping in view of increasing demand India has to work out for improve-
ment of these sectors for further more employment generation as well as
export business. Silk weaving is largely undertaken on handlooms which
required no license. There is need for better mechanization of handlooms.
On the otherhand silk waste processing and production of spun silk yarn is
a scheduled industry which falls under schedule 23(4) of Industrial Devel-
opment Regulation (IDR) Act, 1951 which requires a Industrial License
under Ministry of Industry, Government of India, New Delhi.
Silk reeling, using country charka is of low quality but it contrib-
utes more to the raw silk produce. The reasons for low quality silk in coun-
try charka are as follows;
1. No sorting of cocoons. Defective cocoons are also reeled.
2. No cocoon mixing
3. Improper deflossing.
4. As there is no jettebout the dirt, gum spots etc., can be elimi-
nated. However, the charka has Tharpatti but cannot function
like button or jettebout.
This low quality raw silk hampers the export market. The main aim
and objective of silk reeling is to export the raw silk for which reeling
process is to be undertaken by technical hands on standard reeling ma-
chines. Silk reeling industry equipped with improved machines like multiend
reeling machines or automatic reeling machines have wide prospects. This
aspect of sericulture is to be given proper attention to improve the reeling
Silk Reeling 7
machines, training the technical persons to operate latest machines, pro-
duction of quality cocoons to reelout on automatic and semi-automatic reel-
ing machines. There by process of reeling as well as raw silk quality im-
proves and also gives good foreign exchange. Country charka has to be
improved by providing button. The reelers are to be given training to adopt
themselves for latest machines. Reeling industry must be given priority for
loans by Central Silk Board (CSB), State Government departments through
their directorate, NABARD, Co-operative Banks, Nationalised and
Grameena Banks. Training is to be imparted by State and Central
Government Schemes, such as TRISEM, D.R.D.A., Nehru Yuva Kendras.
According to the latest statistics available on income per day is Rs.
45.16 in the reeling machines compared with Rs. 10.36 in country charka.
Similary income that comes by selling raw reeled on country charka is very
less when compared to silk reeled out on improved or semi-automatic reel-
ing machines.
In India semi-automatic and automatic reeling machines are con-
fined to certain states and practically they are not being used because the
green cocoons which are available cannot suit to feed such machines. Thus
lot of importance is to be given to evolve new races to suit the latest equip-
ment so as to get good cash returns. Reeling industry needs lot of technical
persons which is now lacking. Therefore training programme are to be
launched to benefit the reelers.
SUMMARY
Reeling is to be carried with proper skill and good machines.
The aim of cottage reeling industry is to obtain the maximum yield
of raw silk from cocoons at the minimum cost of material and labour.
No fiber (natural or synthetic) can match silk in luster and elegance.
Sericulture is alongbased and flourishing mostly in rural areas and
contributes 50 per cent of raw produced on country charka.
Silk had a prestigious place in the culture and commerce of India in
the Pre-Vedic times. Its usage was also coined in Itihas and Vedas
(Rugveda).
India is famous for Banaras, Surat Silks, Tie and Dye, Patola, Ikats,
Kashmir, Karanataka, Bandhej, Kanchipuram, Tajavur,
Dharmavaram, Pochampally Silk Fabrics.
Silk is known as Queen of Textiles. It is sold as raw silk, fabric or
as readymade garments.
Reeling waste, bad cocoons are used to make spun silk fabrics. The
waste silk is made into matka, katan, feshua, noil yarn which have
very good export market.
Silk is used for fabric power, package material, sound free gears,
tyre manufacturing, parachutes, sky jackets, sleeping bags,
confortors, suturing material.
Silkworm is very much useful for genetic experiments in biotech-
nology.
Silk trade was started in 1670 when Tipu Sultan established the
Mysore Silk Industry.
The central Government has taken lot of steps for promoting the
sericulture activities, and established Central Silk Board in 1949 at
Bangalore.
CSB has setup research stations, cold storages, seed production
centres, basic seed farms, technical service centres, demonstration-
cum-training centres, certificate and diploma courses.
The government has introduced different schemes for financial,
technical and material assistance.
India is the only country producing muga the Golden Yellow Silk
in the World.
Reeling industry creates good amount of job, wage, self employ-
ment opportunities to suit rural, economically backward, Sched-
uled Caste and Scheduled Tribes.
Income generating sources of reeling are production of reeling co-
coons, production of raw silk, utilization of bye-products.
Indian raw silk can not reach international standards.
Reeling industry does not require any license. But spun silk yarn
production unit needs a license under schedule 23(4) of IDR Act,
1951.
Silk reeled in country charka is of low quality.
Multiend, filaure, automatic reeling units are better for good qual-
ity raw silk production.
There is need to improve all the infrastructure facilities of reeling
industry to produce quality raw silk of international standards.
Silk Reeling 9
QUESTIONS
I. SHORT QUESTIONS
1. what is the final phase of sericulture industry ?
2. Define raw silk ?
3. Define filature.
4. Define reeling.
5. Mention the characters of the silk.
6. Name some reelig machines.
7. What are the draw backs of country charka ?
8. When and where was silk discovered ?
9. Mention some silk fabrics produced in India.
10. Mention fabric material made from mulberry silk.
11. What are the forms of waste silk
12. Mention tasar silk fabrics.
13. Mention some uses of silk.
14. Mention th silk items exported from India.
15. What is the main function of CSB ?
16. Mention are the outcomes of NSP ?
17. Mention functions of government for promoting sericulture.
18. What are the income generating sources in sericulture ?
19. Mention the act for starting spun silk yarn unit.
20. Mention the beneficiaries of reelign industry.
I. ESSAY QUESTIONS
1. Write briefly about the importance of reeling industry.
2. Detail about the uses of silk.
3. Write about the development of reeling industry.
4. Write about the scope of reeling industry.
5. Reeling is a cottage industry activity - detail the statement.
Silk Reeling 11
2.1. INTRODUCTION
Raw material for silk reeling are cocoons. Cocoon is nothing but a
protective shell made up of a continuos long protein silk filament spun by
mature silkworm. Cocoon formation takes place froir to pupation for elf
protection from climate on the reliability and raw silk production. The
qualtities of good cocoon are compact in build, uniform in shape and size,
rich in the silk content, contain less floss and easily reelable.
However, the quality of cocoons depends on various rearing tech-
niques followed by the rearers. Worms are grown carefully adopting latest
techniques for cocoon and fibre quality. The other considerations for the
production of quality cocoons are:
1. To maintain optimum temperature and humidity conditions
during cocoon spinning.
2. To maintain proper density during mounting.
3. Care after mounting.
4. Timely harvesting of cocoons.
2.2. PHYSICAL CHARACTERS
The characters which from the quality of cocoons and cocoon fila-
ments are several groups. The heritable such as colour of cocoons, shape of
cocoons etc., those variable according to environmental conditions such as
weight of cocoon, weight of cocoon shell, length, weight and size of co-
coon filament etc. all these characters have an intimate relation to the value
of material for reeling.
It is an important aspect to study the physical and commercial char-
acters of cocoons as they influence the economics of reeling and the quality
of reeled product. The cocoon contains a long continuous silk bave. The
composition of cocoon shell is as follows.
2
COCOON QUALITY
2.1.1. Colour
It is a racial character. It depends on the presence of colouring pig-
ments in the sericin layer of the bave. It is superficial, can be removed in
degunning process. This character is not important for evaluating quality
of cocoons. However, it is considered when stifled and stored cocoons are
purchased. Brightness of colour indicates proper stifling of cocoons where
as dullness shows improper stifling.
The common colours of cocoons are white, grayish, white, silver,
white, yellow, canary yellow, sapphire yellow, old gold, pale yellow, greenish
yellow and golden yellow. Indian races produce either white or yellow co-
coons and white cocoons have a slight edge over the yellow cocoons in
market price.
2.1.2. Shape of Cocoons
It is also a racial character, it is influenced by type of mountage and
care taken during spinning. The shapes are ball, egg, oval, spindle or pea-
nut. Shape of cocoon helps to evaluate the quality and reelability. For easy
relling spherical, oval and moderately constricted or printed cocoons are
selected. The cocoons with too deep constriction in the middle or with too
much pointed are not suitable for good reeling.
2.1.3. Size of Cocoons
The size of cocoons help in evaluation of quality. The size is generally
indicated by the number of cocoons per litre. The size indicates the quan-
tity of silk filament, percentage of silk in the cocoon and nature of the
bave. Generally the number of cocoons per litre varies between 110 and
150 with uni/bivotine races (sub-tropical) and id more (300-400) with
multivoltine races. Uniform sized cocoons are required for reeling.
Cocoon Quality 13
Content Percentage
Fibroin 72.0-81.0
Sericin 19.0-28.0
Fat & Wax 0.5-1.0
Colouring matter & ash 1.0-1.4
2.2.4. Hardness or compactness
This parameter indicates the shell texture and hardness of cocoon
layer. When a cocoon is lightly pressed between the fingers, it should not
yield but should feel firm, compact and elastic. A loosely built cocoons
with poor reelability becomes compressed when pressed. The hardness of
cocoons shell is dependent on boiling of cocoons.
2.2.5. Grain or Wrinkle
After deflossing the cocoon surface should be granual or wrinkled
with convolutions. The granulation is not uniform but varies with race.
Course granular cocoons make poor reeling and contain thick bave. For
better reeling fine granular cocoons are selected.
2.2.6. Weight of Cocoons
It is the most important character. The weight of cocoon indicates
approximate quantity of raw silk that can be reeled. Weight also helps in
price fixing and in estimating the RENDITTA. The weight or raw or fresh
cocoon is not constant. The weight decreases gradually till the pupa is trans-
formed into moth and emerges out of cocoon. However, the total loss for all
seasons is about 15 per cent.
2.2.7. Weight of cocoon shell
It is the chief character of the cocoon shell as it yield the silk for
reeling. Hence, larger the weight of the shell, greater the silk yield. The
weight of cocoon shell is different in different varieties of breeds and also
in the same breed. This parameter is influenced by care taken during rear-
ing and mounting. In Indian multivoltine hybrids the shell weights is 200 to
300 mg. , while it is 180 to 250 mg in multivoltine pure races. Indian
univoltine cocoons have 200 and 300 mg of silk shell.
2.3. COMMERCIAL CHARACTERS
These characters are very important to decide the quality of silk.
Basing on these values, cocoon price is fixed. Silk grading is also based on
these characters.
2.3.1. Shell ratio
In indicates the quantity of raw silk that can be reeled from fresh
cocoons,. Further, this parameter helps in estimating renditta and fixing a
proper price for the cocoons. It varies with breed of silkworms and care
taken in rearing and mounting. The percentage of shell ratio varies with the
age of cocoons. Indian multivoltine hybrids contain 12 to 15 per cent shell
ratio. In newly evoled hybrids 16 to 19 per cent and pure multivoltine have
10 to 12 per cent. It is calculated using the following formulae.
Shell ratio = X 100
Weight of the Cocoon shell
Weight of the whole cocoon
2.3.2. Length of filament or bave
This denotes the length of silk in the cocoon. This parameter deter-
mine the workload, rate or production, and evenness of silk thread. The
Indian multivoltine pure races contain 300 to 400 mts, multivoltine hybrids
400 to 500 m/tsn newly evolved hybrids 600 to 800 mts ad Kashmir
univoltine hybrids varies from 800 to 1200 mts. This length of silk can be
calculated using the formulae.
One revolution on epprouvett =9/8 meters or 1.125 mts.
OR
400 revolutions on epprouvette =450 mts.
So total number of revolution on epprouvett are taken and converted
into meters using the formula.
Non breakable Filament Length (NBFL)
It is the average length of the filament from a cocoon that can be
unwound without any breaks.
NBFL =
Weight of filament length
1 +Number of breaks
Cocoon Quality 15
2.3.3. Weight or reelable filament
The complete silk filament of the cocoon cannot be reeled. The out-
ermost floss layer and innermost pelade layer cannot be reeled and there-
fore removed. The floss layer is thick and palade layer is too thin and weak.
Considering these wastages, the actual reelable silk is less than whole weight
of the shell. Generally 80 to 90 per cent of the bave can be reeled in single
cocoon reeling.
2.3.4. Denier
It is the size of the silk bave. The denier is high in outer floss layer
than the middle or inner layer. While the palade of gossamer layer has thin-
nest denier. The tolerance limits for the commercial raw silk are 13/15, 20/
22 deneir. The denier can be calculated using the following formulae.
Denier is used to estimate the number of cocoons required to reel
the silk of specific denier. It can be measures on denier scale also.
2.3.5. Reelability
It can be defined as suitability of cocoons for economic reeling eas-
ily with which the cocoons yield silk bave. Increased wastage of silk oc-
curs. When the cocoons have poor reelability. The reelability of cocoons
depends on the care taken during spinning, methods of cocoon stifling,
storage, skill in processing the cocoons. It speaks about percentage ratio of
unbroken filament to the whole filament length compared to bivoltine,
multivoltines have poor reelability.
2.3.6. Raw Silk percentage
This is the percentage of the quantity of raw silk reeled in relation
to the quantity of fresh cocoons used for reeling. This parameter has a di-
rect relation with cocoons price and the cost of production of raw silk.
Normally this percentage is about 55-60 for multivoltine hybrids, 40-45 for
multivoltine pure races and 80-85 in bivoltines for the whole weight of the
shell.
Denier = X 9000
Total weight of reeled silk (g)
Total length of reeled silk (m)
2.3.3. Reelability ratio of cocoon filaments
This shows the frequency of cuts during reeling operations. It is
calculated from the number of feeding ends and the number of cocoons
reeled.
Raw silk percentage = X 100
Weight of reeled silk
Weight of cocoon
= X 100
No. of coccons reeled
No. of feeding ends
2.3.3. Floss
It is the value outermost loose, fragmented unevenly thick silk layer
of the cocoon. It is a waste silk. It is a racial character. Spinning conditions
also add to high floss percentage.
2.3.4. Renditta
It is the value derived from liter of cocoons required to produce one
unit (1 kg) of raw silk. Multovoltines have a renditta valve of 8 to 14 while
bivoltine have a valve of 6 to 8.
2.4. PRINCIPLES FOR ASSESSMENT.
Productivity and complete economics in sericulture is calculated on
raw silk out put per unit area. The cocoon quality decides the cost of raw
silk. This calculations helps to fix the cocoon price that a farmer can get. It
is necessary for the farmer to raise best quality cocoons, through improved
varieties and improved system of rearing. On the other hand it is important
to know easy method of evaluating the quality of cocoons in the minimum
time given. The relationship between cocoon and shell weight is consid-
ered to calculate the shell percentage which is linked to the ultimate raw
silk yield. The number of cocoons per kg and number of cocoons per liter
also can be estimate to evaluate the quality of cocoon. Other parameters
like filament length, number of breaks, denier, raw silk percentage, reelability
percentage and ratio, floss percentage, number of cocoons per kg., are also
calculated to assess the quality of cocoons.
Cocoon Quality 17
2. Length of filament =One revolution on epprouvette =9/8 mts.
OR 1.125 mts OR
400 revolutions on epprouvette=450mts.
1. Shell Ratio = X 100
Weight of the cocoon shell
Weight of the whole cocoon
6. Reelability ratio =
No. of cocoons reeled X 100
No. of feeding ends
3. Denier =
Total Wt. of reeled silk (g) X 9000
Total length of reeled silk (mts.)
4. Raw Silk percentage =
5. Reelability percertage =
No of cocoons - Coverted No. of - Converted No. of
taken for reeling reeling out cocoons unreeled cocoons X100
No. of castings - Converted no. of reeled out cocoons
Weight of raw silk reeled X 100
Weight of cocoons used
7. No. of cocoons per Kg. =
1000 (g)
Single cocoon weight (g)
8. Floss percentage =
Weight of floss (from 50 shells) X 100
Weight of 50 cocoons
9. Loss (%) on mountage =
No. of larvae mounted - No. of cocoons harvested X 100
No. of larvae mounted
2.5. MODEL PROBLEMS:
1. Shell Ratio
a. Weight of Cocoon =1.8 gms
Weight of Shell =0.3 gms.
=0.3 X 100 =16.6%
1.8
b. Weight of Cocoon =16.6 gms.
Weight of Pupa =1.4 gms.
Weight of shell =Cocoon weight - pupa weight
=1.6 - 1.4 =0.2 gms.
=0.2 X 100 =12.5%
0.6
c. Weight of pupa =1.3 gms
Weight of shell =0.3 gms
Weight of Cocoon =Weight of pupa +Weight of Shell
=1.3 +0.3 =1.6 gms.
=0.3 X 100 =18.75%
1.6
2. Filament length
Total Revolutions on epprouvette =510
One Revolutions =1.125 mts or 9/8 mts.
510 ----- ?
=510 X 1.125 =573.7 mts.
1
OR one revolution =9/8 mts
510 ---- ?
=510 X 9/8 =573.7 mts.
Cocoon Quality 19
3. Denier
Weight of reeled silk =0.25 gms.
Length of reeled silk =573.7 mts.
=0.25 X 9000 =3.9
573.7
4. Raw Silk percentage
Weight of raw silk reeled =0.25 gms.
Weight of Cocoons used =2 gms.
=0.25 X 100 =12.5 %
2
5. Reliability percentage
10-7-1
10-7
6. Reelability ratio
=10 X 100 =76 %
13
7. No. of cocoons /kg
=1000 =555
1.8
8. Floss percentage
=7.5 gms X 100 =8.3 %
90 gms
9. Loss percentage on mountage
=600-555 X 100 =7.5%
600
X 100 =66%
OBSERVATION SHEET
Sl.No. Particulars Reading
1. Weight of 25 cocoons (female) (g)
2. Weight of 25 cocoons (male) (g)
3. Total weight of cocoons (g)
4. Single cocoon weight (g)
i.e. Sl.No. 3
50
5. Weight of 25 shells (female) (g)
6. Weight of 25 shells (male) (g)
7. Total weight of shells (g)
8. Single shell weight (g)
i.e. Sl.No. 7
50
9. Shell % = Sl.No. 7 X 100 or Sl.No. 8 X 100
Sl.No. 3 Sl.No. 4
10. Weight of floss from 50 shells
11. Floss (%) i.e., Sl.No. 10 X 100
Sl.No. 3
12. Number of Cocoons per kg 1000
Sl.No.4
13. Number of cocoons per liter
14. Filament length in meters
15. Numbers of breaks
16. Denier
Cocoon Quality 21
The quality of cocoon is very important for getting good crop
returns.
Quality cocoons are produced by adoptig modern methods of rear-
ing, utilizing good and conditioned equipments, maintaining good
environmental conditions.
Quality is based on physical and commercial characters of cocoons,
which influence reeling.
Physical characters like colour, shape, size, hardness wrinkles, weight
of cocoons are considered.
The cocoon shell has more amounts of fibroin than other substances.
Cocoon colour, shape are heritable characters. The size indicates
the quantity of silk filament. Fine granular cocoons are better for
reeling.
The weight of cocoon and shell are important and indicates quantity
of silk that can be reeled.
Silk is based on commercial characters. These shell ratio, filament
length, denier, reelability, raw silk percentage, renditta.
Shell ratio helps to estimate renditta and for fixing the cocoon price.
Denier indicates size of silk bave. Renditta speakes about one unit
raw silk production from one liter of cocoons.
The economics of sericulture is calculated on raw silk out put per
unit area.
Cocoon quality can be assessed by calculating various commercial
parameters and are entered in observation sheet.
SUMMARY
I. Short Questions
1. Mention types of characters that decide quality of silk.
2. What are the contents of cocoon shell ?
3. Mention some physical characters of cocoon.
4. Mention some commercial characters of cocoon.
5. What are the racial characters of cocoons ?
6. What are the common colours of cocoons ?
7. How do you assess hardness of cocoon ?
8. What is the importance of grains ?
9. What is the importance of shell weight ?
10. How do you calculate shell ratio ?
11. Define shell ration.
12. How do you calculate filament length ?
13. Write about denier.
14. Define renditta.
15. Define reelability.
16. How do you calculate raw silk percentage ?
17. Calculate shell ratio where cocoon and pupal weights are 1.9 and
1.7 gms respectively.
18. Calculate filament length with epprovvette valve 44 ?
II. Essay Questions
1. Write about physical characters of cocoons.
2. Write about commercial characters of cocoons.
3. Find out the shell ratio, filament length and denier using the values
given. Weight of 15 cocoons is 52.5 gr., pupal wt-45 gr, No. of revo-
lutions on epprouvette are 7650 and wt. reeled silk is 4 gr.
4. Calculate filament lengths of 12 observations using the epprouvette
valvues 640,520,400,475,525,560,600,610,540,550,500,400.
5. Calculate shell ratio of the following cocoons
Shell weights 0.6,0.5,0.4,0.4,0.3,0.5,0.3,0.3,0.4,0.6
Pupal weights 3.2,4.0,3.3,2.9,3.1,2.5,3.3,4.0,4.1,3.3
6. Calculate renditta and raw silk percentage using the values given
for 100 cocoons.
Wt. 380 gr., Wt of reeled silk is 40 Gr.
7. What are the particulars to be incorporated in observation sheet ?
QUESTIONS
Cocoon Quality 23
3.1. INTRODUCTION
The end product of silkworm rearing is cocoon. The rearing activi-
ties influence the production and quality of cocoon which finally reflect on
the price fixation. Since rearing is skilled job never confirms cent percent
results. All the cocoons in a mountage are not uniform in quality. There
will be double cocoons and flimsy cocoons, in addition to good cocoons.
The flimsy cocoons contain very little silk and are not fit for proper reeling.
The cocoon crop definitely contains defective or bad cocoons which re-
duce the price of cocoon and silk quality. Further, the cocoons are basic
requirements for reeling industry, requires a good quality cocoons. Every
reeler looks for good quality cocoons. Thus quality cocoon production plays
a vital role in rearing, grainage, reeling industry. It has lot of impact at
every level of sericulture aspects.
Keeping in view of all the factors, after cocoon harvest they are
methodically, technically sorted before price fixation. It benefits the rearer
and reeler. The technical aspects related to sorting of cocoons and types of
cocoons their identification, calculations are detailed in this chapter for the
benefit of the learner.
3.2. SELECTION OF RAW MATERIAL FOR REELING.
Selections of cocoons as a raw material for reeling is difficult and
any carelessness results in serous loss. Selective purchase of cocoons in an
open market is very difficult. It is due to absence of determined standards
of quality for cocoons, and standard methods of testing. In Seri culturally
advance countries cocoons are of good and uniform quality which favours
test reeling, in countries like India inferior quality multivoltine race co-
coons are produced and testing of cocoons prior to transaction are not used.
The cocoon quality is done by application of empirical methods derived
from experience in the cocoon trade and reeling industry. The cocoon test-
ing includes primary enquires, visual examination, tactile and numerical
tests.
3
COCOON SORTING
3.2.1. Preliminary enquires
Superior quality of cocoons can be harvested by quality seed. How-
ever regional and seasonal variations influence cocoon quality. Production
of quality cocoons are influenced by various factors which are explains in
Fig. 4.
The silk yarn i.e., the end product produced by the reeler is affected
by several factors.
a. Quality of cocoons
b. Skill in reeling techniques
c. Mechanical efficiency of reeling machines.
Thus, the reeler should give importance to the quality of cocoons
while purchasing. He should follow the following while purchasing by vi-
sual inspection and feeling by hand.
a. uniformity in colour, shape and size;
b. built of cocoons (hardness);
c. tightness at the ends of the cocoons;
d. fully matured pupa within the cocoon;
e. presence of low percentage of defective cocoons.
The high percentage of defective cocoons in a lot, when reeled results in:
a. lower percentage of reelability;
b. higher percentage of silk waste and low yield of silk yarn;
c. increase in the renditta;
d. variation in the denier affecting the quality of silk such as
evenness, neatness, cleanness and increase in the number of
winding breaks, poor luster and colour in the silk yarn.
The quality and quantity of cocoons depends on the equipments and
care during rearing and mounting. The date of mounting, race of silkworm,
type of chandirka are essential details. Cocoon lots containing immature
cocoons are not preferred by reeler.
3.2.2. Visual examination of cocoon
The cocoon lots are critically observed to detect melted cocoons. It
is detected by putrid smell emanating from the cocoon heap. For confirmation
open palm is thrusted into the pile of cocoons. Melted cocoons occur when
live cocoons are heaped without aeration. These cocoons are poor in
reelability.
Cocoon Sorting 25
Uniform cocoons are obtained by good seed proper rearing meth-
ods. Size variations indicate that either the seed used was bad or improper
rearing or the lot was a mixture of small lots collected from different sources.
This different size cocoons increase cost of production.
Urinated cocoons have poor reelability and are uneconomical for
reeling. Cocoons should not be too flossy. The floss adds to weight of co-
coons when yielding silk for reeling. These bad cocoons are totally avoided
while purchasing.
3.3. Tactile and Numerical Tests
When the palm is thrust into a heap of cocoons, if it is cool and
moist, it is recognized that the lot contains immature cocoons. These co-
coons make muffled thudding sound instead of a rattling sound made by
mature cocoons. If there is no sound, cocoons confirm to have dead pupae
sticking to the shell inside. Such cocoon are not selected for reeling. The
cocoons should feel firm and full when gently squeezed.
Other aspects to testing is to find out average weight of individual
cocoons (actual number of cocoons per kg.). in multivoltine races cocoons
harvested on fifth count between 1000 and 1500 per kg. whereas uni/
bivoltine races range between 600-800. depending on the No. of cocoons/
Kg. individual weight is calculated (lower number of cocoons indicate more
silk content). Final valuation is made only after identification of unreelable
and double cocoons found mixed in a lot. After then price is fixed using
standard methods.
Fig. 3.1. Production of Quality Cocoons
1. For Fresh Cocoons
Gross weight of the lot Wt. of sample to be drawn
2250 kg 4.5 kg
4500 kg 6.0 kg
Above 4500 kg 7.5 kg
2. For dry cocoons
825 kg 1.8 kg
1650 kg 2.4 kg
Above 1650 kg 3.0 kg
The samples are weighed and kept safe for testing. The farmer de-
livers the cocoons to the reeler and accepts the minimum price expected for
the lot. The final amount will be paid test report. Then the cocoons are
sorted into reelabel and unreelable cocoons. Several types of defective co-
coons are sorted. The percentages of each of these cocoons is separately
calculated and recorded. Then the percentage of cocoons actually available
for reeling are obtained. One third of the reelable cocoons are retained for
test reeling and the remaining used for the testing of the following items.
1. Size of the cocoon (110/150 per liter)
2. Campactness
3. Grain or wrinkle
4. Weight of cocoon (150-200 gr per liter)
5. Weight of silk shell (350-550 mg/cocoon shell)
6. Percentage of silk shell (14% for multivoltine, 20% univoltine
with less floss)
All the results are recorded and reserve cocoons are subjected for
reeling test. The cocoons are cooked and reeled with thread speed ranging
from 150-210 m/minute. Generally seven cocoons are taken at each end for
reeling. Results are calculated and recorded on the following items.
Cocoon Sorting 27
1. Average length of reelable cocoon filament
2. Reelability ratio
3. Denier of cocoon filament
4. Quantity of reelable cocoon filament
5. Raw silk percentage
6. Neatness defects
All these values help in estimating the quantity and quality of the
raw silk of that particular lot.
The cocoon classification is based on quality and reelability. Raw
silk quality is based on uniformity in size of the thread, frequency of distri-
bution of knots. Thus priority is given to the length of silk bave available
per casting, as longer length ensures better eveness. Denier determines the
size deviation in raw silk; the higher the denier of the bave the greater will
be the size deviation. For higher the denier original estimation on length is
suitably adjusted according to the denier size of cocoon filament for every
0.5 denier. The uniformity of size and shape of the cocoons influences the
size deviation of raw silk further adjustment is made according to the ex-
cellent/first/second/third/ or fourth class. The final estimation after these
adjustments is called the cocoon quality mark. On the basis of quality mark
cocoons are classified into ten grades.
3.4. DEFECTIVE COCOONS
These cocoons are not suitable for economic reeling of raw silk.
Thus these are sorted out as their presence reduces the quality and price of
silk and loss to the reeler.
3.4.1. Immature cocoons
This is a defect of untimely harvesting. These cocoons produce
muffled thudding sound when shaken.
3.4.2. Black stained
These are dotted with balck stains outside. These cocoons when
gently squeezed exudes a bad smell due to putrifucation of pupa. These
cocoons spoil healthy cocoons.
3.4.3. Rusts
The cocoons show rusts colour on the silk shell. These cocoons are
formed when the intestinal fluid of mature worm falls on cocoons already
formed. This produces patches of rusty colour.
3.4.4. Mutes
This results when the pupa is dead and sticks to the shell inside.
These cocoons make nosound when shaken., the inside decaying pupa re-
leases a putrifying body flid which also stain the silk shell.
3.4.5. Spotted cocoons
These cocoons are normal and healthy but spots or stains are found.
These spots are due to various reasons. These are storing in badly venti-
lated and damp store rooms, defective ventilation of cocoon conditioning
chamber. Brownish black or yellow spots are due to the development of
common green mould.
3.4.6. Undersize cocoons
These are below normal size and contain thin silk shell. These co-
coons are to be separated and reeled separately.
3.4.7. This ends or weak points
The cocoon shell layer is extremely thin either at one end or both
ends of cocoon. Certain silkworm breeds are prone to thin type of damage.
Low temperature and high humidity during the grownup silkworm rearing
stage and low temperature and dry conditions during cocooning can also
produce this type of defect. These cocoons get water logged and become
unreelable when put into cooking basin.
Cocoon Sorting 29
Fig. 3.2. A: Cocoon sorting ; B: bad Cocoons
3.4.8. Malformed cocoons
These cocoons show many defective forms i.e., abnormal shapes,
pressed, non-uniform silk testure. The silkworm breeds is mostly respon-
sible for the formation of deformed cocoons. But they are also produced
when the cocoon crop is poor and when the structure of the cocooning
frame is not suitable.
3.4.9. Calcified Cocoons
These cocoons contain pupa or chrysalides which are destroyed by
fungus Botrytis bassina.
3.4.10. Inside stained and dead worm cocoons.
The cocoons get stained on the inside of the shell because of fluid
coming from the worm inside that has died, or from a damaged pupa.
3.4.11. Cocoons with frame marks
The cocoons have marks of the cocooning frame etc., on their shells.
Such cocoons are produced when immature silkworms are mounted or when
the structure of the cocooning frame is not appropriate.
3.4.12. Thin shelled cocoons
These are cocoons with a thin cocoon shell layer. A large number of
cocoons of this type are produced when the cocoon crop is generally poor.
3.4.13. Loose Knit or fragile
These cocoons are also called as straw bag. This indicates that the
shell loosely woven with open spaces between groups and layers making
up the shells. These cocoons contain poor silk and get water logged. These
cannot be reeled.
Cocoon Sorting 31
Fig. 3.3. Percentage of cocoons during different seasosn
3.4.14. Fumigated Cocoons
Some rearers adopt to fumigate formalin in mounting room to pre-
vent the fungus which causes calcification of cocoons. The fumes of for-
malin makes the sericin layer insoluble making imperfect for reeling. When
sulphur is used as fumigant, it greatly damages the silk shell. Such cocoons
become water logged and become unfit for reeling.
3.4.15. Double cocoons
These cocoons are spun by two or more silk worms together. The
cocoons are large, coarse, abnormal in shape and irregular. Though these
are not defective cocoons but they are considered so because the double
cocoons have shells made up of entangled silk baves which do not unravel
regularly or evenly as in the ordinary healthy cocoons. Hereditary factors
affect the formation of such cocoons. But mounting of over matured co-
coons and dense mounting also can induce the formation of such cocoons.
3.4.16. Mould
Stifled or dry cocoons are generally stored. Mould fungus attacks
on cocoons when store room is badly ventilated and damp. These cocoons
are not reeled properly and results in more waste.
3.4.17. Pierced Cocoons
Certain silkworm breeds are more prone to the formation of such
cocoons. These cocoons are pierced by maggot of fly pest. These are not
reelable.
3.5. Good Cocoons
The cocoon quality is an important factor for any sericulture. It is
vital for grainage, rearing and reeling aspects. Since most of the activity in
sericulture is confined to silkworm rearing, the quality cocoon production
adds to good crop results and good price. However good quality cocoons
have good market. And these cocoons fetch more to the reeler also. Quality
cocoon production is influenced by various factors starting from silkworm
seed race. The rearing activities are main for obtaining better quality co-
coons. One should not forget about quality leaf production, preservation
and feeding. Above all the farmers concentration, interest, management,
involvement are other aspects that favours good cocoon production. Good
cocoons should have the following features.
1. uniformity in colour, shape, size
2. Good hardness, wrinkles
3. Less floss
4. Tightness at the ends of the cocoon
5. Fully matured pupa within the cocoon
6. Good shell ratio, reelability, filament length, denier
7. Presence of fewer defective cocoons
8. High silk content, renditta
Cocoon Sorting 33
Fig. 3.4. Good Cocoons
3.6. MODEL PROBLEMS
After cocoon sorting the percentage of good and defective cocoons
are calculated. This gives reelable cocoon percentages. All the test values
help in estimating the quality or raw silk of that particular lot.
The percentages of all defective cocoons and good cocoons are
calculated individually by number and weight using the following
formulae.
% of total defective cocoons =defective cocoons (wt.) X 100
Total cocoons (wt.)
OR
% of total defective cocoons = defective cocoons in no. X 100
Total no. of cocoons
% of total good cocoons = weight of good cocoons X 100
Weight of total cocoons
OR
Good Cocoon number X 100
Total no. of cocoons
3.6.1. MODEL PROBLEM
To determine the % of good and defective cocoons from the give lot.
SOLUTION :
The given cocoons are sorted out into good and defective cocoons
and weighed separately. They percentage is calculated individually using
the formulae.
Total Number of good cocoons =1112
Total number of defective cocoons =367
Total weight of good cocoons =1870 gr.
Total weight of defective cocoons =528 gr.
Total % of defective cocoons by no. = 336 X 100 =23.2%
1148
by weight = 528 X 100 =22%
2398
1. Melted cocoons 119 140
2. Double cocoons 22 95
3. Pierced cocoons 16 18
4. Malformed cocoons 10 35
5. Uninated/stained 131 190
6. Flimsy cocoons 28 50
7. Cut cocoons 0 0
8. Good (reelable) cocoons 1112 1870
S.No. Cocoons No. Weight in grams
TOTAL 14481 2398
Cocoon Sorting 35
Total % of good cocoons by no. = 1112 X 100 =76.7 %
1448
by weight = 1890 X 100 =77.9 %
2398
A. Percentages of individual defective cocoons by number
1. Melted cocoons % = 119 X 100 =8.2%
1448
2. Double cocoons % =22 X 100 =1.5%
1448
3. Pierced cocoons % =16 X 100 =1.1%
1448
4. Malformed cocoons % = 10 X 100 =0.6%
1448
5. Urinated cocoons % =131 X 100 =9%
1448
6. Flimsy cocoon % = 28 X 100 =1.9%
1448
Percentage of total defective cocoons =336 X 100 =23.2 %
1448
Percentage of good cocoons =1112 X 100 =76.7%
1448
B. Percentages of individual defective cocoons by weight
1. Melted cocoons % = 140 X 100 =5.8%
2398
2. Double cocoons % = 95 X 100 =3.9%
2398
3. Pierced cocoons % =18 X 100 =0.7 %
2398
4. Malformed cocoons % = 35 X 100 =1.4%
2398
5. Urinated cocoon % =190 X 100 =7.9%
2398
6. Flimsy cocoon % = 50 X 100 =2%
2398
Percentage of total defective cocoons = 528 X 100 =22%
2398
Percentage of good cocoons = 1870 X 100 =77.9%
2398
3.6.2. Problems on commercial aspects of cocoons
1. Calculate the percentage of good and defective cocoons of a given
lot which contained the following number and weight.
No. Weight
Melted cocoons 201 250
Double cocoons 57 75
Pierced cocoons 29 55
Malformed cocoons 37 41
Uninated/stained 185 210
Flimsy cocoons 42 30
Cut cocoons 11 22
Good cocoons 1840 2532
SUMMARY
Quality of cocoons directly effects the reelability and raw silk pro-
duction.
Study of both physical and commercial characters is important for
economic reeling and quality of reeled product.
Among all the commercial aspects shell ratio, filament length and
denier are the most important. However other aspects are also con-
sidered while selecting the cocoons for reeling.
Cocoon Sorting 37
Cocoon testing includes primary enquires, visual examination, tac-
tile and numerical tests.
While selecting the cocoons first they are visually examined for
quality assessment. Since high percentage of defective cocoons
causes loss to the reeler.
After taking the samples defective cocoons are identified and sorted.
The percentage of good defective cocoons are calculated.
Shell ratio, filament length and denier are also calculated from the
sample cocoons. Cocoons are classified based on quality and
reelability.
Good cocoons are good for reeling.
QUESTIONS
I. Short Questions
1. Define immature cocoons.
2. What are black stained cocoons ?
3. What are calcified cocoons ?
4. What are mutes ?
5. What are rusted cocoons ?
6. Define double cocoons ?
7. Define pierced cocoons.
8. What are flimsy cocoons ?
9. What are defective cocoons ?
10. Define malformed cocoons.
11. Name some defective cocoons.
12. Write some good characters of cocoons ?
13. What are the different stages in cocoon testing ?
14. How do you conduct visual test ?
15. Mention quality assessment tests.
II. Essay Questions.
1. How do you select raw material for reeling ?
2. Write about defective cocoons.
3. Write short notes on
a) Good Cocoons b) Visual examination
4
COCOON MARKETING
4.1. INTRODUCTION
The cocoons are harvested and marketed as early as possible before
the moths emerge from them. The cocoons contain live silkworm pupa
which are also affected when marketing is delayed. Further the live pupa
contains water to the extent of 60 to 70 percent of its weight. Delay in
transport and marketing causes water loss and reduction of weight. Since
this being an important stage has to be managed properly. If otherwise re-
sults in loss. It is therefore every rearer should know about the nearest
markets, transport facilities, market timing. This enables the rearer to plan
for marketing. The rearer should know about safe transport of cocoons,
price fixation details, rules and acts of marketing. All these details are given
for the benefit of the learner as well as for the rearer.
4.2. COCOON MARKETS
The method of purchase, at present the system followed for dis-
posal of cocoons by the rearers is to sell the cocoons in the notified cocoon
markets through open auctions. Cocoons, being a perishable have a mar-
keting value only for a short period. Thus the cocoon market is a buyers
market in favour of the reelers. The price structure of the cocoons, are there-
fore more affected by supply and demand without any reference to their
quality. The reeler therefore, has to offer his price for the cocoon lot keep-
ing in view the quality of the cocoons.
In order to protect the rearer as well as the reeler and to overcome
the exploitation by middlemen, and to rationailse the price structure, the
Central Silk Board (CSB) and the state governments have opened regu-
lated cocoon markets and marketing federations in each state. They have
also started more government owned reeling units which buy all the extra
cocoons at the floor price so that they do not perish for wan to buyers.
Besides this the State Governments have set up centralized marketing fed-
erations and have also formulated certain guidelines to be followed in co-
coon transactions.
Fig. 4.1. Cocoon Market
4.2.1. RULES AND ACTS
The following are the guidelines framed by State Government.
1. The rearer and the buyer must enroll their names as members of the
marketing federation by paying a nominal membership fee.
2. All transactions are to be made only through marketing federations.
3. No private transactions are allowed.
4. A marketing officer appointed by the government is made respon-
sible for all marketing operations.
5. If there are no bidders, the federation itself buys them at the floor
price and sends to the Government-owned reeling units.
6. The federation gets a nominal commission from both the buyer and
the seller.
As soon as the cocoons reach the market, the rearer is issued a slip
in which quantity of his lot, address and other details are filled. The mar-
keting officer takes samples for assessment of commercial characters like
single cocoon weight, shell weight, shell ratio, defective cocoon percent-
age and by applying an empirical formula, fixes the floor price of the co-
coon lot. Then cocoons are auctioned. The price may rise above the floor
price during bidding.
4.3. PRICE FIXATION
The method of floor price fixation needs much modifications. In
J apan an elaborate method is followed for cocoon price fixation. However
simple procedures evolved by Central Sericulture Training and Research
Institute (CSTRI) can be enforced throughout Indian marketing federations
for the benefit or rearer and reeler. The procedure has certain constants for
estimating the renditta from the shell ratio which are as follows.
1. 165 for cocoons with shell ration of 14-16%
The renditta is estimated as =Constant
Shell ratio
For example, if the shell ratio of a lot is 22, then its renditta is 133/
22 or 6. however the defective cocoon account reduces the renditta value.
For this 100 cocoons are taken from renditta sample and defective cocoon
number is assessed. If the percentage is less than 5% constants can be used
directly or can be modified. The renditta value is used for fixing the price
by dividing the kakame cost by renditta. The kakame speaks about the stan-
dard cost of cocoons required to reel one kg of raw silk.
If the kakame value of a race is Rs. 900/-.
Then price of the lot will be 900/6 =150
This method would be more reliable guideline than any other method.
This method benefits the reeler and assures him about the quality of co-
coons.
Cocoon Marketting 41
4.3.1. Process
Price fixation of cocoons
a. Standard cocoon number per kg.
b. Standard rate per kg.
(Government changes the value from time to time)
c. Cocoons of rearer =Cocoon number per kg.
Price = Standard Cost X Standard cocoon number per kg
Cocoon number per kg (Cocoons of rearer)
4.4. MODEL PROBLEMS
4.4.1. Price fixation of bivoltine cocoons
a. Standard Cocoon number per kg =650
b. Standard cost per kg =Rs. 100/-
c. Cocoons of rearer
Cocoons number per kg. 560
SOLUTION
Substitute these values in the principle
=100X650 =65000 =116.07
560 560
Cost of one kg Rs. 116.07 ps.
4.4.2. Price fixation of multivoltine cocoons.
a. Standard Cocoon number per kg =1000
b. Standard cost per kg =Rs. 70/-
c. Cocoons of rearer
Cocoon number per kg. 850
SOLUTION
Substitute these values in the principle
=70X1000 = 70000 = 82.35
850 850
Cost of one kg Rs. 82.35 ps.
SUMMARY
Transportation of cocoons is carried with lot of care because
cocoon contain live pupae.
Cocoons are packed loosely in perforated bags.
Transport the cocoons in cool hours of day.
Avoid delay in transportation after filling the containers.
Cocoon markets/federations are opened by CSB and State Govern-
ments to regulate the price.
State Government has framed certain guidelines for the benefit of
rearer and reeler.
Cocoon transactions are not allowed privately.
Cocoon price is fixed based or certain important commercial char-
acters.
CSTRI has evolved a simple process for price fixation based on a
constant for estimating the renditta from the shell ratio.
Cocoon Marketting 43
QUESTIONS
I. Short Questions.
1. What is the best time for transportation of cocoon ?
2. How do you pack cocoons for transportation ?
3. Mention about measures to be adopted during transport of cocoons.
4. Why sorting is essential after harvesting ?
5. Who has established cocoon markets ?
6. Mention any one guideline framed by government for cocoon
markets.
7. Mention principle for calculating the cocoon price.
8. Define kakame.
9. Mention principle for estimating renditta.
1. Write about transport of cocoons ?
2. What are measures for safe transport of cocoons ?
3. Write about cocoon markets ?
4. Mention about the guidelines framed by government for cocoon
markets ?
5. Write about price fixation method evolved by CSTRI ?
6. Venkaiah brought 50 kg of multivoltine cocoons (Weighing 900
per kg) to cocoon market. Calculate the amount due to rearer.
7. Calculate cocoon price and total amount due to rearer.
Bivoltine cocoons 50 kg (Weighing 625 per kg)
Multivoltine cocoons 75 kg (weighing 950 per kg)
8. Rangaiah brought 66 kg of bivoltine cocoons (weighting 700 per
kg) to cocoon market. Calculate the amount due to rearer.
5
COCOON STIFLING AND
CONDITIONING
5.1. INTRODUCTION
Silkworm cocoons contain live pupae. The cocoons are transported
safely from market to reeling centre. These cocoons are safely stored in
reeling centre. But these cocoons cannot be stored for along time as the
living pupae transforms (10-12 days after spinning) into moth and emerges
from the cocoon by piercing the shell. While emerging from the cocoons,
the moth cuts the filaments in the silk layer, making the cocoon unfit for
reeling. The cocoon is a ball of silk filament having two ends, one begin-
ning outside and the other ending inside. Such cocoons are called pierced
cocoons. The pierced cocoon is fit for spinning and not for reeling. These
cocoons have lost the continuity of silk bave and become useless for nor-
mal reeling. All these cocoons along with other bad cocoons amounts to
waste cocoons. Thus reeling cocoons are therefore have to be subjected to
a process so as to kill the pupae. The method of killing the pupa should be
done carefully without spoiling the silk quality and quantity of cocoon.
The cocoon being the important raw material for reeling has to be
handled carefully. Any careless during handling damages the cocoon qual-
ity. The process of killing the pupa and keeping the cocoon in good condi-
tion by storing in a proper conditions is called stifling and conditioning of
cocoons. Further the cocoons are made ready for reeling after different pro-
cesses. These processes include stifling of cocoons, storage, deflosing, rid-
dling and mixing. All these process are important in reeling industry. Every
process has its advantages and disadvantages on the cocoon quality and
production of raw silk.
5.1. STIFLING METHODS
It is a method of killing the pupae inside the cocoon without in any
case interfering with the structure of silk shell. The method is well defined
not to damage the silk quality and quantity. There are several methods of
stifling practiced in reeling industry.
1. Sun Drying
2. Stream Stifling
3. Hot and Drying
5.1.1. Sun Drying
It is a method of killing and drying the pupae by prolonged expo-
sure of freshly harvested cocoons to hot sun. The cocoons can be preserved
for a longer duration without any problem. Immediately after harvest of
cocoons they are thinly spread on mats and kept in the hot sun. this process
is carried from sunrise to sunset for several days till the pupae are killed
and cocoons are completely dried. Dried cocoons are very light and make
rattling sound when shaken.
Advantages :
It is simple and cheap
Drying is even/uniform
Dis-Advantages :
It is not suitable for modern reeling.
It is possible only in bright and hot sunny days.
Silk is very sensitive to sunlight and prolonged exposure of co-
coons affects the strength of the bave impairing reelability and re-
sults in poor quality silk.
Increases wastage of silk reeling.
It is cumbersome and wasteful in space and labor.
Cocoons get dust and dirt during the process.
5.1.2. Steam Stifling.
In this process fresh cocoons are exposed to hot wet steam, for a
required period. There are several methods of steam stifling. Out of those
methods basket steaming and chamber steaming are in practice.
A. Basket Steaming
This method of streaming is followed by small scale reelers. It is
very simple and 10-15 kg of fresh cocoons can be stifled easily. First all
defective cocoons are separated from the lot. About 10-15kg of cocoons are
loosely filled in a bamboo basket. The basket should be closely woven on
sides and bottom is loosely woven to allow steam to pass through easily. A
wet gunny cloth is stretched over the top of the basket, and tied at the sides
leaving the bottom free. Then the basket is placed over the mouth of a
vessel in which water is boiled. The hot steam from the vessel fills the
basket and stifles the pupae and kills them in about half-an-hour. Steaming
is stopped when dense steam starts coming out of the basket through sides
of the basket. Further it emits a smell peculiar to the freshly steamed co-
coons (Fig. 5.1).
When the open palm is lightly placed on the freshly steamed co-
coons they are hot, damp, slimy and sticky. The cocoons yield under slight
pressure between the fingers because of soft and wet nature due to steam-
ing. These above said characters indicate proper stifling. Further complete
stifling is conformed by cutting a few freshly steamed good build or double
cocoon and pupa is examined to see whether killed or not. If the pupae are
live, react to the exposure to cold air and start wriggling, then steaming is
continued for some more time.
Fig. 5.1. Basket Steaming
Cocoon Stifling and Conditioning 47
The freshly steamed cocoons are then poured out and spread thimly
on mat and kept in shade for airing. The airing is continued for several
hours to get dry, firm, cool and non-sticky cocoons. Wet cocoons are not
stored because they are easily affected by fungal pathogens. Freshly steamed
cocoons are not at all suitable for immediately reeling. Because the sericin
will be soft and dissolves in cooking and reeling baths. When such cocoons
are reeled the silk bave comes off in lumps and spoil the quality of silk
leading to silk waste. Therefore, seasoning of cocoons is important in reel-
ing. The seasoning is that, the freshly steamed cocoons are kept in shade
for three to four days to allow wet sericin to dry, which can make cocoons
fit for reeling.
If steamed cocoons are required to be stored for a long-time, they
are thinly spread in trays and kept in well ventilated rooms for drying. The
drying is continued till the weight of cocoons is reduced to one third of
original weight of fresh cocoons. However, this long storage required addi-
tional labour for frequent turning of the cocoons to ensure uniform drying
and also to prevent fungus attack.
B. Barrel Straming
This method is similar to basket steaming. But here instead of bam-
boo basket, a metal barrel is used for steaming. In this a convenient size
barrel is fixed over an oven. The barrel is provided with a platform inside
on the bottom plate. The basket filled with cocoons and kept on platform
for stifling. The mouth of barrel is provided with a close fitting lid to pre-
vent the escaping steam, when steaming is in progress (Fig. 5.2).
Fig. 5.2. Barrel Steaming
Fresh the barrel is filled with water, about two thirds height of the
platform and boiled over a fire. With the appearance of steam the basket
filled with 15-20 kg of green cocoons is kept on the platform and barrel lid
securely closed. Due to continuous fire the increased temperature and pres-
sure of steam builds up in the barrel. This steam stifles the cocoons in 10-15
minutes.
C. Chamber Steaming
This methods is suitable for stifling large quantities of cocoons.
Chamber steaming is generally followed by very big reeling centers, where
large size chambers are constructed for steaming the cocoons. These cham-
bers are internally provided with perforated steam pipes which are con-
nected to the steam boiler by steam supply pipe. The chambers are provided
with either movable or fixed shelves (Fig. 5.3).
Fig. 5.3. Chamber Steaming
The trays are filled with cocoons fitted into a trolly are pushed in-
side the chambers and door is securely closed. The steam under pressure is
released into the chamber by opening the steam value. The steaming is
continued for a required time then the steam value is closed. Then the co-
coon trays are removed for airing.
In fixed shelf type steaming, a lot of time is wasted in loading and
unloading of coons in trays. While it is negligible waste of time in movable
shelf chamber (Fig. 5.4).
Fig. 5.4. Steam Sifling
Advantages of Steam Stifling :
Large quantity of cocoons can be stifled, except for basket and bar-
rel method where 15-20 kg cocoons are stifled.
Steaming time is short.
Disadvantages :
It kills the pupa inside and does not dry it properly.
The moisture content makes the pupa fragile and weak. When such
cocoons are stored in thick layers, the pupae of lower layers are
crushed under the weight of cocoons above. Thus leading to the
leakage of body fluids and spoiling the silk of cocoons.
Steamed cocoons require lot of space for aeration.
More labour is required for giving frequent turning of stored co-
coons so as to prevent attack of fungus and to ensure uniform and
quick drying.
Humidity of store increases due to natural exaporation of the mois-
ture from the pupae resulting in mould formation. This is a serious
problem particularly in the rainy season.
The wet pupae decompose and stain the shell and damage the reel-
ing properties of the cocoons.
Wet hot steam also denatures sericin, affecting the reeling resulting
in silk wastage, quality of reeled silk.
Fig. 5.5. Old Method of Cocoon Drying Equipment
Steamed cocoons can not be reeled immediately after steaming be-
cause the sericin will be wet, hot swollen and soft. Steam stifled
cocoons should be reeled within a period of 8-10 days as the sericin
is wet and increase the waste of silk.
D. Hot Air Drying
The objective of hot air drying is to kill the pupae and drying the
cocoons either fully or partially to a desired degree of dryness. This type of
conditioning is carried in special chambers and the method of stifling is the
most scientific.
An old type hot air conditioning equipment consisted of three func-
tional parts, a long rectangular wooden box for keeping fresh cocoons for
drying, an air heating equipment of simple design and a blower or fan oper-
ated by hand or driven by motor (Fig. 5.5).
There are many types of hot air drying plants in different countries,
which have evolved from the older type of drier. The basic requirements of
a hot air conditioner are (1) a chamber for keeping the fresh cocoons to be
dried (2)a fan or blower to supply a steady current of air to pass through the
different layers of cocoons and carry off the products of desiccation during
the drying process (3)a heating equipment (4) thermometric regulation of
temperature in all parts of the chamber. (5) chamber is provided with ad-
equate ventilation for rapid removal of products of desiccation i.e., mois-
ture, volatile gases (ammonia).
In this method the pupae become dry and the cocoon weight is re-
duced to about 1/3 of the original weight (complete desiccation). By limit-
ing the loss in weight to about 40% of the fresh cocoon weight, the cocoon
drying turnover can be increased to two fold (partial desiccation). Limiting
of loss in weight to only 20% the turnover can be increased up to four times
compared to complete desiccation. The operation can be carried without
any wastage of time between loading and unloading of cocoons. Further
the cocoon movement in the chamber is directed opposite to the current of
hot air blown into the chamber. This process of movement helps in com-
plete desiccation. Proper drying of cocoons enables a high percentage of
reliability and high grade of raw silk.
The factors involved in the proper drying of cocoons that enable a
high percentage of reliability are as follows.
1. The racial characters.
2. The seasonal variations.
3. Shell ratio.
4. Quantity of cocoons to be handled at a time.
5. The moisture contents.
6. The speed of air into the chamber.
7. Rate of evaporation of moisture from the pupae.
8. The temperature and humidity conditions inside the chamber.
9. Duration of drying.
Mulberry cocoons with 19.5 shell ratio and dry weight of pupa to
23.5 per cent should reach a drying ratio of 38.2 per cent.
There are many kinds of hot air conditioning chambers of which
shelf carrier type and conveyer type are common.
Shelf carrier type consists of shelves in a chamber, which can be
removed and pushed in during conditioning. The shelf carries many trays.
The cocoons are dried by the flow of hot air current.
In conveyor type, there are eight conveyer platforms, one in each
chamber. They are arranged one below the other. The conveyers are usually
18m long move at a speed of 18 to 24 m per hour during operation.
Fig. 5.6. Hot Air Drier
Therefore, the total length traversed by cocoons in the process is
around 144m and time taken for full conditioning is about six to eight hours
depending upon the speed of conveyer platform or belts. The equipment is
provided with special arrangement to control the air current to diffuse the
hot air in the several layers of cocoons in the conveyer belt. This ensures
uniform and efficient drying of the cocoons. The processing capacity of
this method is about 8000kg of green cocoons per day. The temperature
maintained in first five chambers are in the following descending order
where drying occurs progressively.
I chamber 93
0
C to 95
0
C
II chamber 84
0
C to 85
0
C
III chamber 80
0
C to 82
0
C
IV chamber 77
0
C to 80
0
C
V chamber 74
0
C to 75
0
C
In the succeeding three shelves the temperature is as follows:
VI chamber 65
0
C
VII chamber 60
0
C
VIII chamber 54
0
C
Here gradual cooling of cocoons along with drying takes places. In
this method of the operations are done mechanically.
The equipment consists of an rectangular chamber which internally
consists of compartments. It has an exhaust pipe and formal inlet. The hot
air follows a running course and fans are provided in order to check stagna-
tion of moist hot air. This helps to obtain uniform temperature. It is also
provided with a temperature regulation mechanism.
Advantages :
Killing of pupae and uniform drying are achieved at once in one
system.
Cocoon characters, quality are protected
It is most scientific.
Raw silk recovery is more.
Drying capacity is more.
Many methods other than steam and hot air have also been tried for
killing the pupae. They are use of infrared rays; one step drying cellar method;
cold air killing; Radio wave killing and poisonous gases.
5.3. STORAGE OF COCOONS
It is one of the important aspects of reeling. It is a problem when
stifled cocoons (univoltine) are to be stored for a long time. Cocoons are
completely dried before storing. Even completely dried cocoons are also
Fig. 5.7. Cocoon Drying Chamber (Vertical)
sometimes damaged by mould attack if the storage room is not kept dry.
Other problem in storing is Dermestes betel pests. It feeds on the fat con-
tent of the pupae for which is cuts the silk shell and damages the cocoons.
The beetle is attracted by the smell of purifying pupae. Sometimes rats also
cause damage to the cocoons. The colour of the cocoon is also affected if
not stored properly. Therefore, after complete drying, the cocoons are to be
stored in a store house which is protected from rats and is moisture proof.
To protect the cocoons from fungal attack, the inside temperature and rela-
tive humidity of the store need to be maintained at 27
0
C to 30
0
C with 60-70
per cent relative humidity. The following tips are adopted for safe storing.
All the spotted and stained cocoons are collected from healthy co-
coons and thrown away.
Waste cocoons and silk are stored far away from the store room.
Store house should be protected from direct sunlight but proper
acration is essential.
Walls and ceilng should be disinfected with 2% formalin.
If any insects are found in stored cocoons all the cocoons are passed
through dry hot air at 60
0
-70
0
C for some time to kill the insect popu-
lation.
Cocoons should always be kept in thin layers on trays and kept open
for natural evaporation.
Preventive measures to control moulds.
Mould develops when the cocoon store is damp and humid and
when the cocoons are not fully dried. It is necessary to ensure com-
plete desiccation of cocoons before storing.
Humidity should not rise above 70% in the store house.
Store room must possess good ventilation.
Cocoons should be given regular and frequent turning during stor-
age.
When fumigants are used care is taken to keep the doors and win-
dows open till the traces of fumigants are removed.
5.4. SORTING OF COCOONS
The defective cocoons are sorted out by the rearer before taking the
cocoon crop to market. Even then the cocoons are again sorted before reel-
ing. Further cocoon may become defective in the process of transporting,
stifling, storing etc.. Therefore, second sorting is a must before reeling, to
get good, quality, uniform cocoons. Cocoons such as double, stained,
crushed, flimsy, malformed, fluffy, insect damaged, mould attacked are found
in small quantities which are removed and rejected, for production of high
grade raw silk.
The sorters sit around the tables, on which cocoons are spread. The
sorters pick out defective and double cocoons separately. The double co-
coons are used for dupion silk. In Indian filatures, instead of tables with
low partitions, convenient sized bamboo trays or mats are used for keeping
the cocoons for sorting. Rejections are put in separate baskets. However
this method of sorting is not scientific because is does not detect defects
that may be inside the cocoon shell. In J apan such bad cocoons are also
eliminated by passing the cocoon over ground-glass plates illuminated from
below. In small arrangement are provided at the sorting table or tables are
arranged close to windows.
The details of defective cocoons are dealt in Chapter-III of Paper-II.
There are two methods of sorting.
1. Sorting before stifling.
2. Sorting after stifling.
Fig. 5.8. Cocoon Sorting
Immediately after the cocoons are received in the cocoon stores, flimsy,
stained and method cocoons are picked out and separated. These can be
easily seen in the cocoon lot. If these are not sorted out they will spoil the
good cocoons by staining and increase the number of defective cocoons.
After stifling and drying the cocoons are subjected to sorting and later grad-
ing. The workers who are the called sorters are entrusted with the sorting.
Each sorter is given specified quantity of cocoons and the work load is
fixed. If the storing is improper, it results in high percentage of defective
cocoons which are unfit for reeling.
5.5. DEFLOSSING
Deflossing is an important and necessary of reeling. The cocoons
with floss obstructions in mechanical processes and results in slowing the
operation and increases wastage of material, labour and time. Thus the su-
perficial floss must be removed. In the earlier stages of reeling operations
the floss protects the proper well laid reelable layer of the cocoons.
The multivoltine cocoons are generally flossy and medium firm-
ness in build. Such cocoons are deflossed by the sorters by peeling the floss
from the cocoon with the fingers. This process may be laborious but the
obvious advantage is that required quantity of floss is removed from the
cocoons. However the process consumes too much time.
Fig. 5.9. Deflossing Machine
Univoltine cocoons are naturally firm in build and contain less floss.
Such cocoons are deflossed using a rough surfaced iron rod of 60-65cm
long one cm thick. One end of the rod is bent into the shape of a handle. The
handle of the rod is held in the toes of the sorters food and long end of the
rod is thrust a little below the surface layers of cocoon heap. When sorter
turns the handle the iron rod collects round itself the floss.
In advanced countries a simple hand operated deflossing machine
is used. However this is not suitable for too flossy cocoons and shells which
are not robust and firm.
Fig. 5.10 Cocoon Ridding
Machine
Fig. 5.11 Combined Cocoon Deflossing
and Riddling Machine
5.6. RIDDLING
This process helps to separate the cocoons according to their sizes.
The deflossed cocoons when fed to riddling machine, they are separated
and collected as large, medium and small sizes. This process is more useful
to the reeler since only uniform size cocoons offer scope for production of
high grade silk.
The cocoons can be separated using simple sieves or mechanical
operations. There are appliances which combine deflossing and riddling
operations. They consist of two distinct but connected parts. The first part
defloseed the cocoons while second one riddles the cocoons.
5.7. MIXING
In some modern filatures which aim at producing special quality
raw silk, three varieties of cocoons graded in riddling machine are mixed in
required proportions. This process of combining cocoons is called cocoon
mixing or blending. It helps to ensure speed and uniformity of reeling and
to get desired effect in raw silk. It is essential for ensuring a high degree of
efficiency of the automatic reeling machines. But with advent of the denier
control mechanism, cocoon mixing have lost its importance.
SUMMARY
Stifling is the method of killig the pupae without damaging shell of
the cocoon.
There are sun, steam, hot air drying methods.
Sun drying may be cheap but takes longer duration and not suitable
for modern reeling.
In steam stifling the cocoons are exposed to hot wet steam.
There are several methods of steam stifling such as basket steam-
ing, barrel, chamber, etc.
When the cocoons are stifled it emits a peculiar smell.
Freshly steamed cocoons are hot, damp, slimy and sticky and yield
to slight pressure and indicate proper stifling.
Steamed cocoons are kept in shade for air as they are not suitable
for immediate reeling.
The disadvantage of steam stifling is that it kills the pupae but does
not dry it.
How air dmrying is aimed at killing and drying the pupae.
The commonly used methods of hot air drying are shelf carrier and
conveyor type methods.
Hot air drying method is most scientific where cocoon characters
and qualities are protected.
Care should be taken while storing stifiled cocoons against beetle
pest. Rats, moulds by maintaining proper ventilation and only 70%
humidity.
Sorting of cocoons helps to eliminate defective cocoons.
Defleseing and riddling operations before proper reeling improves
the qualities of the silk.
QUESTIONS
I. SHORT QUESTIONS
1. Define stifling.
2. What are the advantages of sun drying ?
3. Define steam stifling ?
4. How do you identify proper stifling of cocoons ?
5. What is seasoning of cocoons ?
6. What are the main disadvantages of steam stifling ?
7. What is the objective of hot air drying ?
8. How many chambers are there in conveyor type of hot air drying ?
9. What are the problems of storing of cocoons ?
10. What is sorting of cocoons ?
11. Define deflossing.
12. Define riddling.
13. What is cocoon mixing ?
14. List out the methods of stifling.
15. Define floss.
II. ESSAY QUESTIONS
1. What is the importance of stifling ? Explain the methods of bas-
ket steam stifling.
2. Hot Air drying is more scientific-justify the statement.
3. How do the sorting, deflossing, riddling, improves the quality
of reeled silk ?
4. Detail about chamber steaming of cocoons.
5. How do you store stifled cocoons ?
a) Cocoon Mixing b) Sun Drying
a) Riddling b) Barrel Steaming
6
COCOON COOKING AND
BRUSHING
6.1. INTRODUCTION
The silkworm cocoon is a ball of silk filament whose one end is
inside and the other outside. The filament is continuous and consists of
fibroin in the middle core, with a serian layer covering the fibroin. As the
bave winding in the cocoon are held fast by the natural gum sericin, it is
necessary to soften the gum by putting the cocoon in hot water before un-
winding the bave.
The product of the reeling operation is called grege or raw silk.
Reeling is the process of unwinding of cocoon filament or baves and wind-
ing these filaments to a minimum size of 14 deniers. Reeling is not an easy
job as the baves are bound by a hard gum like protein known as sericin.
Hence the sericin has to be melted so that fibroin which is the main con-
stituent of the cocoon filament is liberated free. The process of softening is
popularly known as cooking or boiling. Further this process also helps brush-
ing the entangled floss layer of the cocoon from the true end of reelabel
filament. One has to be very clear about the favours to analyse the factors
that control unwinding of the cocoon filament. Thus the details of sericin
protein. Properties of silk, cooking process., brushing methods are detailed
in this chapter.
6.2. PROPERTIES OF SILK
Silk thread spun by silkworms is technically called as bave. This
is a composite structure which inturn has two filaments inside which are
known as brins. Brins are the filaments which are produced by the two
silkglands. Brins are made up of silk protein biborin synthesized in the
silkglands. The brins are intrun bound by silk protein called sericin.
The chemical properties and protein chemistry are as follows;
1. Fibroin is comparatively stable to heat. If it is heated (100
0
C) looses
moisture and when cooled it regains it. If heated continuously be-
comes slightly coloured. The decomposition beings at 130
0
C and
decomposes at 170
0
C and burns with an unpleasant smell.
Cocoon Cooking and Brushing 63
2. Concentrated acids (HCI and H
2
SO
4
) dissolve larger amount of silk.
3. Silk swells and shrinks when soaked in formic acid (90%) at room
temperature. After washing with water it is stretched to regain its
original length.
4. Glacial acetic acid dissolves waxy material and a small amount of
soluble protein. Dichloro and tribloroacetic acids dissolve silk.
5. When fibroin is soaked in 0.1N NaOH at 70
0
C. it dissolves at a
constant rate, 50% of it after 20 hours. When boiled in same
soloution, evolves ammonia (about 9% of the total nitrogen in fi-
broin).
6. Ammonia decomposes fibroin, when boiled with 0.5 per cent am-
monia water it decreases in strength and elongation.
7. Halogen combine chemically with silk fibre.
8. Long time treatment at room temperature iodine is absorbed gradu-
ally.
9. Oxidizing agents react destructively with silk fibre.
10. UV light changes while silk to yellow colour and gradually makes
it brittle.
6.2.1. Solubility of Sericin
Sericin protein contains amino acides like serine, threonine, aspar-
tic acid, glumatic acid and large amounts of lysine and argentine. Sericin
contains three layers i.e. outer layer or sericin-I which is easily soluble in
water, middle layer or sericin-II which is also soluble but containing traces
of crystals of sericin. The inner or sericin-III is not soluble in water easily.
Because of the above properties the cocoons are to be cooked effectively
with minimum waste of silk by a skilled operator.
The chemical characteristics of fibroin and sericin differ due to the
differences in the amino acid composition. Wetting and softening of sericin
which binds the baves in the cocoon is carried by subjecting the cocoons to
the action of hot water. The cocoon shell is naturally water repellant. As
regards sericin, it is less soluble in innermost layers than in the middle or
outer layers.
Table 3.1. Solubility of Sericin (Murayama, 1954)
Cocoon Layers Total Sericin (%) % of Solubility
Out side 1 36 9.5
2 21 5.7
3 20 3.8
4 19 3.2
5 21 1.7
The above mentioned peculiar characters of the cocoon create prob-
lems in cooking all the layers of the shell uniformly. Further cocoons with
high percentage of silk, thick shell and fine bave, hardened shell due to
prolonged exposure to high temperature, become more problematic in reel-
ing.
6.3. COOKING METHODS
The cooking process is done for softening the sericin to facilitate
easy unwinding of the silk filament at the same time. The sericin should be
retained with the fibroin to facilitate agglunation of filaments in the thread
forming. The sericin content of the silk filament ranges from 25 to 30 per
cent, which varies in different races. In cooking process 7 to 8 per cent of
sericin is dissolved. Proper cooking of cocoons for making them easily
reelable with minimum waste of silk material is very important. This de-
pends upon the nature of the cocoon, construction of the shell and storage
time and condition. In order to cook the cocoons properly there are differ-
ent types of systems of cooking.
1. Top reeling or floating system
2. Sunken system
In top reeling the cocoon shell becomes wet and impervious to wa-
ter and float in water when the cooked cocoons are put in to the reeling
basin. In sunken system the shell is cooked and the process fills the cocoon
with water (97-98 per cent) and makes the cocoon heavy and which sink n
the reeling water. The top reeling is a old method while sunken reeling is a
latest method.
6.2.1. Top Reeling
There are two methods i.e. open pan and three pan type, which are
detailed under;
A. Open Pan Type
In this method cooking is carried in pans or vessels of copper or
earthen pots filled with water. The vessel is heated from firewood, charcoal
or electric heater. When the water starts to boil, handful of cocoons is put
into water and kept immersed for 3-4 minutes using perforated ladle. When
the cocoon turn into translucent, dull in colour, feel soapy to touch and
when filaments come off on pulling, the cocoons (indicates proper cook-
ing) are taken out for reeling. The temperature of water is maintained at 90-
95
0
C. The bunch of cocoons with the ends are taken on the ladle and trans-
ferred to the reeling basin. It is easy method but defective because of the
following reasons.
1. Only outer layer is cooked but not the inner layer. If cooking is
continued for a long time two inner layers are properly cooked but
outerlayer gets over cooked. Due to this the sericin is softened and
causes the filaments to comes of in lumps.
2. Cohesion, luster and cleanes of reeled silk is affected very badly.
3. If the cocoons are removed for reeling soon the outer layers are
cooked reeling becomes difficult when the process reach the middle
and inner layer.
4. Since cooking and brushing are carried in same basin, the dirt and
material released from cocoon make the water dirty. The operator
has to change the water regularly. This adds to consumption of wa-
ter and heating expenses. Finally cost of production shoots up.
5. Because of small size of the basin only limited quantity of cocoons
are cooked which limits the reeling process. If the cooking basins
are increased the expenditure increases.
The advantages of this method is that the cooking process is carried
in front of himself (reeler) who can instruct and influence the cooker for
better reeling process.
B. Three Pan Type
It is carried with three large size porcelain basins fitted in a row on
a platform or table. All the basin are provided with water and steam con-
nections. The other equipment of cooking are long handled brass wire cage
(for holding the cocoons), a wiremesh disc with wodden handle (for keep-
ing the cocoons immersed) and long handled perforated ladles. All these
are kept in a open shelf in the table accessable to the reeler. The table is
provided with a platform for keeping the boiled cocoons.
The temperature of each basin is brought up to the following levels.
I basin 90
0
C to 95
0
C
II basin 60
0
C to 65
0
C
III basin 90
0
C to 95
0
C
The water temperature in the cocoon carrier basin is kept at 40
0
C to
45
0
C. The wire cage with required quantity of cocoons is immersed in the,
I,II,III pans for about 60 seconds, 30-40 seconds and 2 minutes respec-
tively. In the first pan air the cocoon comes out due to hot temperature of
the basin. In the second pan air inside the cocoon contracts and hot water
permeates in. As a result the cocoon shell layers are lossened and the hot
water entering through the shell softens and swells the sericin layer and
finally fills (partly) the cocoon cavity. The cocoons from the second pan
are transferred into third pan and made to immerse with the help of wire
mesh disc. The hot water of III pan soak the cocoons and fills up the co-
coon cavity to a considerable extent and dissolves a small quantity of seri-
cin. Then cocoons and transferred to the basin with the help of ladle for
brushing.
Fig. 6.1. Open Pan Filature Cooking Basin
In three pan cooking two methods are followed i.e. high-low-high
method and low-high-low method.
1. High-low-high method :
I basin II basin III basin
Temperature 90-95
0
C 60-65
0
C 90-95
0
C
Time 60 Sec 30-40 sec. 120 sec.
After the third pan, the cocoons are received in a bucket of water at
45
0
C before they are taken for brushing.
2. Low-high-low method :
I basin II basin III basin
Temperature 65
0
C 98
0
C 65
0
C
Time 60 Sec 90 sec. 60 sec.
The cooked cocoons are soaked in a bucket of water at 45
0
C for 10
minutes before being taken for brushing.
Advantages :
1. Each unit capacity is about 60-70 kg of cocoons per day. It can
easily supply cocoons to 10-12 multiend reeling basins.
2. Saves labour.
Fig. 6.2. Three Pan Cooking
3. Premeation of water into the cocoon is systematic thus improves
the unwinding quality of filament.
4. Uniformity in cooking.
5. Since brushing is done separately the water does not become dirty.
6. Since cooking and reeling basins are different the reeler can con-
centrate only on reeling.
Disadvantages of Top Reeling :
1. Reeling has to be done at higher temperature which tends to affect
the palm and fingers of the reeler and impair reeling efficiency.
2. Large quantity of steam is required for reeling water. Water vapour
increases humidity and decreases visibility. It also adds to cost of
reeling.
3. Increase the work load of the reeler as he is forced to carryon brush-
ing.
4. Separate cooking and reeling requires additional equipment and staff,
space. However the output compensates extra cost.
6.3.2. Sunken System
The cocoons cooked by this method sink in the water at the time of
reeling. Research conformed that cocoons in as sunken condition in the
reeling basin yield the silk bave more readily than in floating condition.
This feature improves the reeling efficiency. The sinking condition is ob-
tained by increasing the weight of the cocoon by expelling the air con-
tained in the cocoon cavity and replacing it with water. In this process co-
coon shell is cooked uniformly. Tepid or lukewarm water is sufficient for
this kind of reeling.
6.3.2.1. Conveyer Cooking Machine
It is also called as central cocoon boiling machine and used in large-
scale modern reeling units. It consists of a sturdily built long, rectangular
container firmly held in an iron frame. The container is internally sub-
devided into six processing chambers and open chamber for loading the
cocoons. Each processing chamber has its own specification of size and
constructional design to suit its particular function. Each chamber is also
provided with independent water and steam circuits to facilitate mainte-
nance of proper temperature and steam pressure, thermometer and pressure
gauges, inspection windows. the chambers are provided with overflow and
drain pipes for maintaining water level. Some cooking types are provided
with thermostart and automatic control device.
Internally the system has an endlees chain conveyor to carry a series
of wire cages made of brass. The wire cages are meant to hold cocoons.
With the mechanical operation the conveyor carries the cocoon through all
the chambers.
The cocoon cooking involves a series of sequential operations like
pre-treatment (soaking, steaming, permeation), steam cooking. Post-treat-
ment (adjustment, post-permeation). The pre-treatment aims at giving the
necessary water to the cocoon shell evenly. The main cooking process aims
at swelling the cocoon itself and the sericin in the cocoon shell by heating
and replacing the air in the cocoon cavity with steam. The purpose of post-
treatment is to adjust the swelling of sericin and replace the steam in the
cocoon cavity with hot water. All these process does not collapse the co-
coons.
The six different processes of this system are as follows. The first
chamber is called dipping or wetting chamber. It has 40-42
0
C temperature
and cocoons are treated for 30-50 seconds. Second chamber is steaming or
steam blasting chamber functions at about 90-95
0
C at proper steam pres-
sure. In this inside air of cocoon is heated to cause its expansion and partial
replacement. Sericin layers become stiff and slightly less soluble. The du-
ration in second chamber is limited to 60 seconds. The third chamber is
permeating or infiltration chamber and has water at 40-60
0
C temperature.
The duration in second chamber is limited to 60 seconds. The third cham-
ber is permeating or infiltration chamber and has water at 40-60
0
C tem-
perature. The water enters inside the cocoon during 30 seconds of treatment
Fig. 6.3. Central cocoon boiling machine
Fourth chamber is steam cooking and has 95
0
C-98
0
C temperature and 0.33
kg per cm
2
pressure. This causes sericin to swell and soften the silk layers
and steam to fill up the cocoon cavity during 118-120 seconds of treatment.
Fifth chamber is cocoon boiling where steam contents of cocoon are re-
placed by water (consideration of steam) by gradual cooling of water from
98
0
C to 60
0
C. the length of treatment depends on the qualities of the shell.
In sixth chamber water easily enters and fills the left over space inside the
cocoon at 50
0
C-60
0
C. the cocoons after 10-11 minutes are discharged and
taken hot water (40
0
C to 50
0
C) for transfer to brushing and reeling.
6.3.2.2. Circular Type Pressurized Cooking and Brushing :
It is circular in shape and is hand-operated. The capacity is 6 kgs of
cocoons at a time. These cocoons are put in 12 perforated baskets made of
stainless steel, for cooking. Water and steam connections are provided to
the unit and later the cocoons are dipped. Steaming is done from outside
the cooking. Unit above the water level. The sequence of treatment is as
follows.
Fig. 6.5. Pressurized Cooking
Fig. 6.4. Flow Chart
Soaking at
70
0
C for 30
Seconds
Soaking at
70
0
C for 30
Seconds
Soaking at
100
0
C for
30 Minutes
Cooked
Cocoons
Cocoons for
Cooking
Steaming at
85
0
C for
5 Minutes
Steaming at
100
0
C for
10 Minutes
Sprinkling of
Water to get 60
0
C
in 8 Minutes
Advantages :
1. Cooking is uniform in all cocoons and in all layers.
2. Only nineteen workers are required for 400 multiend basins
3. Economy in fuel consumption.
4. Silk Waster percentage is reduced.
5. Cohesion of reeled silk is good as over softening or dissolution of
sericin is avoided.
6. It reduces mill dampnesses, vapour formation thus defects like hard
gum spots, ribbing and plastering are prevented. Improves ventila-
tion and visibility.
7. Low temperature of water does not injure the fingers.
8. Reelability is improved and enables reeling of 40-50 ends by one
reeler. Thus increases output.
6.4. BRUSHING AND METHODS OF BRUSHING
The cocoons have to be brushed to remove the surface floss before
reeling. Floss is a lossely knit, broken, uneven thickness, water silk. With-
out removing the floss layer one cannot reel the proper silk. This waste
layer obstructs the reeling process unless it is clearly removed. The process
of removing floss layer is called brushing.
In open pan and three pan cooking brushing is combined with cook-
ing. But is sunken system it is done separately. After removing the floss
layer, the ends of the cocoon thread are picked up so that reeler can feed
them for easy reeling. The methods of brushing are;
1. Stick
2. Hand Brush.
3. Mechanical Brush.
6.4.1. Stick.
A thin, single, flexible, soft stick is used as brush (Fig. 3.6.a). The
reeler holds the stick at one end and constantly stirs the other end in the
cooking vessel/reeling basin in the form of figure eight. It is to collect the
floss. When sufficient quantity of floss is taken off from the cocoons the
stick is lifted from the cocoons. This process is to draw up the baves. The
stick is moved to sides by holding the collecting lump close to the cocoons.
Then the lump waste is lifted about 25-30 cm up above the cocoons and the
released baves are caught and separated from the waste lump. Cocoons
with reelable ends are transferred to the reeling basin. The waste lump is
further cleaned and dried. Sometimes instead of a single stick a prong made
of two pieces is used.
This method is useful when multivoltine cocoons are handled. Be-
cause these possess much floss content. It is not suitable for univoltine and
bivoltine cocoons where amount of floss is comparatively.
The stick brush is used in the charka system and other older types
of reeling systems. It is called Ekkadi or Dokadi depending upon whether
one or two sticks are used for collecting the floss.
6.4.2. Hand Brush
It is made with flexible thick and long fibres tied like a broom. It is
generally made from Khus-Khus grass (Vetiveria izaniodes) or paddy straw.
The brush is 15-20cm long with a flat, circular brushing surface about 6-8
cm in diameter (Fig.3.6.b). The brushing process is more efficient and ef-
fective because of number of bristles. There is no risk injury of bave or
pupae.
6.4.3. Mechanical Brushing :
It is most suitable for filature reeling machines. After ladling the
cocoons into the cooking vessel for a few minutes, the mechanical brush is
lowered into the basin. The brush makes clock-wise and anticlock-wise
rotary movements (Fig. 3.6.c). After a definite number of movements (20-
24) the brush is lifted out of the basin either by cooking operative or auto-
matically. It is important to maintain the required temperature of water.
After brushing of cocoons the operative carefully collects the teasesd,
outer floss layer. Then all the baves are drawn to unwind from the cocoon
without any amount of floss. The process is carried continuation with brush-
ing and called as cleaning the bave. Generally it is done by the cooking
operative. But at sometimes it is carried in specially designed oval basin by
a separate basin in a wodden tub/perforate dipper/ladle with the bave ends
Fig. 6.6. Brushing Methods
of the cocoons twisted and tied to the hook.
Precautions in mechanical brushing are;
1. Well sorted, uniform size and build cocoons are necessary.
2. Only one layer of the cocoons should be on the surface of water.
Water level must be constant in such a way that cocoons should
touch the brush for effective brushing.
3. When the brush is lowered into the basin steam supply is stopped
to avoid over-cooking.
4. Brush must be clean and free from clogging.
5. Unyielding cocoons returning from the reeling basin should be
treated separately.
In multi-end reeling basins brushing unit is provided for each reel-
ing basin itself. The reeling basin is suitably designed for brushing and
reeling. This brush is similar to automatic brush but is has a number of
small brushes projecting from the main brush holder.
6.4.3. Central Cocoon Brushing Machine.
It is specially designed brushing machine which carries mass brush-
ing of the cocoons. It is so designed for standardized brushing process and
reduces the percentage of waste. It saves labour because of mechanical and
automatic brushing (Fig. 6.7).
Fig. 6.7. Central cocoon Brushing Machine
Cooking is necessary for softening of the silk shell so as to reel
the silk easily.
In top reeling cocoons float while cocoons sink in the water in
sunken system.
In conveyor type the container is internally divided into six process-
ing chambers and an open chamber for loading the cocoons. Each
chamber is provided with independent water and steam circuits it
has internal endless chain conveyor to carry the cocoons.
In circular type cohesion of reeled silk is good as over softening or
dissolution of sericin is avoided.
SUMMARY
QUESTIONS
I. SHORT QUESTIONS.
1. Define cocoon.
2. Define raw silk
3. Define reeling
4. Define cooking or boiling
5. Differenciate brin and bave.
6. Mention cocoon cooking methods.
7. Write the difference between top reeling and sunken system.
8. Mention methods of top reeling.
9. What is high-low-high method of cooking ?
10. Mention methods of sunken system.
11. Define brushing
12. What equipments are used for brushing ?
13. Define floss.
14. What are the advantages of hand brush ?
15. What is cleaning of bave ?
16. What material is used in hand brush ?
17. What are the advantages of central cocoon brushing machine ?
18. How many layers are there in sericin ?
19. Name silk proteins.
I. ESSAY QUESTIONS :
1. Detail the properties of silk.
2. Describe open pan system of boiling.
3. Explain the process of three pan cooking.
4. Write about the advantages and disadvantages of top reeling.
5. Write about conveyor cooking machine.
6. Write short notes.
a. Circular type pressurized cooking
b. Central cocoon brushing machine.
7. Write about hand brushing
8. Write short notes.
a. Stick b. Chemistry of silk.
7
REELING
7.1. INTRODUCTION
Reeling is the last phase of sericulture which is involved with more
technical industrial skills. The reeling process involves various stages or
processes which finally judges the quality of silk. In Indian villages even
today charka reeling is found in many units which is economical for a small
scale reeler.
In general silk reeling is defined as unwinding of silk cocoon. How-
ever it is technically defined as the process of finding the right end of the
cocoon filament and jointly taking several ends together to reel raw silk.
These processes are carried using reeling machines which are operated by
skilled person who is technically known as reeler.
The reeling process is carried in two ways.
1. Direct reeling on standard reels.
2. Indirect reeling includes preliminary reeling on small sized
reels and transferring the reeled silk from the reels to stan-
dard sized reels on re-reeling machines.
In any case the temperature of water in the reeling machines should
be at optimum level to suit the reeling appliances, nature of water and con-
dition of cocoons. Brushed cocoons with their filaments are supplied to the
reeler for reeling.
The production of mulberry raw silk is mainly confined to the state
of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamilnadu, West Bengal and J ammu &
Kashmir. Besides these Maharashtra, Kerala, Gujrat, Uttar Pradesh,
Rajastan, Bihar and Orissa also contribute in Mulberry raw silk produc-
tion.
In non-mulberry sector Bihar, Orissa, Madhya Pradesh, Andhra
Pradesh and West Bengal are major contributors in tasar raw silk produc-
tion besides a small scale production is found in Maharashtra and Uttar
Pradesh. Major states of Eri raw silk producers are Assam, Bihar, Meghalaya,
Manipur while a small scale production is seen in Arunachal Pradesh,
Mizoram, Nagaland and Orissa. Muga silk is confined to Assam besides a
small scale production in Mizoram, Meghalaya and Nagaland.
Silk weaving is largely undertaken on handlooms. As per silk pro-
cessing committee report. 1985 there are about 1.82 lakh handlooms and
0.29 lakh power looms engaged in pure silk weaving in our country. Large
number of handlooms are found in Uttar Pradesh, Tamil Nadu and
Karnataka. However 80 per cent of silk power looms are located in
Karnataka alone.
Spun silk yarn and noil silk yarn production industry to utilize silk
waste was established in 1984. spun silk is also produced in decentralized
hand spinning sector dispersed over large parts of the Central and Eastern
States. Since then the reeling industry has gained its popularity and strength
among the farmers. At present reeling industry is of the view to capture the
export market. Keeping in view of the importance of reeling industry a
detailed explanation is given on different operations and apparatus/equip-
ment for carrying reeling process in a systematic way.
7.2. REELING OPERATIONS
7.2.1. FORMATION OF THREAD
The required number of baves are taken to form standard size of
raw silk. The baves are combined and passed through the guide-eye of a
trader (button or jettebout). The baves coming out button is passed over
two or three small wheels or pulleys during which the filaments are twisted
properly. The mechanism of twisting or intertwinement is technically called
as croissure. This process is repeated at each guide to combine the fila-
ments firmly. During this process maximum amount of water is lost. A
group of cocoons from which the standard thread is formed at each end is
called a rose or rosette. Each place in the reeling basin where a thread is
formed is called an end. At this point the thread along with cocoons form a
shape of cone which is called as balloon. (Fig. 7.1).
Fig. 7.1. Raw Silk thread
formation
Reeling 79
Fig. 7.2. Jettebout A.Simple for rope drive B. Improved with gears
7.2.2. JETTEBOUT
In order to maintain regularity of size and continuity of silk thread
the reeler has to attach fresh filaments. In old system of reeling it is done by
skilful slinging or casting of the loose end of the bave of the cocoon on to
the ballon. This process is costly and laborious.
The threader used in charka is called a tharapatti consisting of a
metallic rod with a number of holes in it. The silk thread is made to emerge
from one of the holes. In cottage basin and filature units porcelain buttons
(differing in hole sizes) were used as threaders for reeling filaments of dif-
ferent deniers. The jettebout is designed is such a way to combine the func-
tions of the ordinary porcelain button thread guide and an automatic thread
catcher.
The jettebout consists of two brass tubes, one outer and one inner.
The inner tube of narrow bore is firmly attached to the jettebout frame
whereas the outer tube revolves on the axis of the cylinder. The inner tube
has a glass button at the top end and the formed thread comes out through
its hole. The outer tube has a circular disc with short slanting arms. In the
formation of the reeled thread the free ends of the filaments of the cocoons
come in contact with the revolving disc. Then the bave is pulled and cut.
The cut end remains in the hand of the reeler while the other part of the
bave falls on the fast moving ballon which is passing through the bore of
the stationery inner tube of the jettebout. The friction catches freshly dropped
threads on to the ballon. The jettebout favours the operator/reeler to oper-
ate more number of ends in a basin and adds to the production (nearly 33
per cent) per reeler.
7.2.3. CROISSURE
The intertwining or crossing of two threads is made by twisting the
threads in a series of spirals during its passage from the threader to the reel.
This mechanism is called as croissure. This process makes the silk thread
round, smooth and compactly cemented with an even coating of sericin.
Otherwise the baves break in manufacturing of fabric and crease up to form
fuzz on the yarn or fabric. Croissure also squeezes most of the water con-
tained in the filament. If the sericin is wet, the threads wound on the reel
will stick to each other and defects like hand gum spots result. There are
two types of croissures used in India.
1. Chambon type
2. Tavellette type
In chambon type the threads from two reeling ends are intertwined
top farm a few spirals. These two ends are taken through distributor and
wound at two ends on the reel. The thread from the right reeling end is
wound on the left side and that from the left side wounds on the right side
of the reel. Its only advantage is that it does not require any elaborate ar-
rangement on the reeling machine.
The disadvantages or defects are
1. There must be at least two reeling ends for the threads to be
twisted.
2. Formation of double threads is common.
3. There must be two separate ends of the reel.
Chambon type is simple and primitive, used in charkha reeling. It is
given up in modern reeling.
Fig. 7.3. Types of croissure
Travellette croissure is universally accepted in modern methods of
reeling. All the defects of chambon type are rectified. It has three pulleys
(croissure wheels) fixed on the croissure frame. The thread coming from
thread guide passes over these three pulleys, before going on to the dis-
tributor and the reel. The length of the croissure or the twisted section is
adjusted according to the size of the silk reeled and the speed of reeling.
While reeling fine thread of low denier, the twisted portion is small and the
reeling speed is low. For high denier silk the twisted portion is large and the
speed of reeling is fast. The coarse size thread can easily withstand a higher
reeling tension.
7.3. REELING APPARATUS
7.3.1. REELS
The important functions of the reel are
a. To draw off the baves from the cluster of cocoons and to help in
forming a continuous thread.
b. To wind up itself the thread of raw silk produced.
The silk thread from the croissure is wound on the reel. The reel
size is not constant/same for all kinds of reeling machines/methods. Its
perimeter in direct reeling machine is 145-150 cm. In modern multiend
reeling machine the reel perimeter 60-75 cm. The reels are very small than
in direct reeling machine. Wile hadn driven machines (old types) the reels
are very large with varied sizes i.e. 180 to 200 cm. The standard reel (direct
reeling filature machine) has six ribs made of wood and spaced at angles of
60
0
. While each rib is held on a pair of round iron spokes radiating from the
main reel axle (Fig. 7.4).
Fig. 7.5. Primitive reel
Fig. 7.4. Standard reel
Reeling 81
The small reels (used in multiend machines) are similar to reels but
held on solid single arms. In some machines the reels are completely made
up of aluminum, which accommodates only one hank. The round metallic
ring of the reel takes the break load for stopping the reel and serves as a
thread guide in re-reeling. The reeled silk on small reels cannot be removed
as hanks and has to be transferred to the standard reels by re-reeling or re-
winding.
The primitive reel is large in size and does not confirm to any stan-
dard pattern (Fig. 7.5).
The production of reeled silk depends on the perimeter of the reel
and its velocity. Therefore the speed has to be adjusted depending on the
cocoon reelability. Further high speed increases the tension on the thread
and leads to frequent breaks. This process increases wastage and reduces
thread production. While low speed also reduces the rate of production
besides impairs the qualities of cohesion and luster of the reeled silk. It also
reduces the effective functioning of corissure. Generally a thread speed of
120-150m. per minute is maintenance in filature machine.
7.3.2. TRAVERSE OR DISTRIBUTOR
The silk thread leaving the croissure surely contains considerable
amount of water. This water makes the sericin wet and sticky. This kind of
silk when wound on the reel defects of ribbing and plastering occurs. All
these cumulative defects in the hank spoil the winding quality and silk
wastage. Therefore needs to avoid defects of ribbing and plastering which
hamper the cost of silk.
Various attempts were made to avoid these defects. They are an
electrically heated long shaft, to increase the length of the silk path be-
tween the croissure and the reel. This process ultimately with drawn be-
cause quick drying on hot surfaces spoils the strength and luster of the silk.
Keeping in view of these defects the standard reel was modified.
The reel with rounded reel bars was found to give satisfactory results. These
reels are used in rewinding machines.
7.3.3. GRANT REELING
Each reel operates its own traverse mechanism consisting of a set
of gears with specific ratios between them. This makes to obtain the par-
ticular pattern and number of webs or diamonds across the face of the hank.
This hank should be of international standard hank. This process of reeling
Fig. 7.6. Grant Reeling hormonic traverse
7.4. REELING MACHINES
Silk reeling is the process of finding the right end of the cocoon
filament and jointly taking several ends together to reel raw silk. In other
words, unwinding of the silk filament from the cocoon with the help of a
reeling machine is called silk reeling.
Cocoons are generally reeled in two ways viz. (i) direct reeling on
standard reels; and (ii) indirect reeling which includes preliminary reeling
on small sized reels and transferring the reeled silk from the reels to stan-
dard sized reels on re-reeling machines. The temperature of water in the
reeling machines is kept at optimum levels suitable to the type of appliance
used, nature of water and condition of the cocoons at the time of reeling.
The cooked and brush cocoons with their filaments are supplied to the reel-
ing basin and transferred to the reeler for reeling. The ends of the released
clear filaments are tied to a hook provided on the reel bench near the reel-
ing basin.
7.4.1. Methods of Reeling :
The several methods of silk reeling are :
i) reeling on traditional charka;
ii) reeling on cottage basins/domestic basins;
iii) reeling on multi-end reeling basins;
iv) reeling on semi-automatic reeling machines;
v) reeling on automatic reeling machines.
Reeling 83
this process of reeling is known as grant reeling. If there is no such mecha-
nism it causes much delay in the knotting operation when a thread breaks.
This grants reeling technique is adopted in direct reeling as in the re-reel-
ing mechanism. (Fig. 7.6).
7.4.1.1. Traditional Charka (Country Charka)
The country charka is a manually operated reeling machine exten-
sively used in the cottage reeling sector of the Indian reeling industry. It is
entirely home-built by the reeler using material available locally in the vil-
lage, with the help of the village carpenter and blacksmith. The charkas are
generally installed in the backyard of the houses or in the simple roofed
shelter. Generally, each unit of the charka has 5 to 6 charkas. Each charka
consists of three parts namely the mud platform, distributor and charka
reel.
The mud platform is in a rectangular shape measuring about 60 x
120 cm with height 90 cms. It has a built-in fire place with a basin fitted
over it. This is either a mud pot or a copper vessel, generally oval in shape
with a diameter of 45-50 cms. The basin is buried up to its brim in the mud
plat-form and there is a place for the reeler to sit on the platform. This basin
is used for both cooking and reeling operations.
The basin has a thread guide (commonly called tharpatti) which is
made up of a metallic strip with apertures on it. It is securely fixed at the
end of a thin long stick leaning against the front edge of the mud platform
and rests just about the basin.
The fire-place or oven is used or burning firewood or dry twigs to
heat the basin water. In some places, places, paddy husk and peanut shell
are also used as fuel. A chimney is provided for the smoke to escape.
A simple device popularly know as distributor consists of a wheel
which revolves on its vertical axis and drives the wooden traverse rod back-
ward and forward. The traverse rod is parallel to the front side of the plat-
form and stands about 20-25 cms. about it. The wheel is driven by cord belt
from the reel over the constricted part of the wheel. The traverse rod is
provided with small wire loops along its length at regular intervals to serve
as a thread guide for the threads passing through them on their way to the
reel. When reeling is in progress, the traverse rod moves briskly to and fro
in front of the reel and distributes the silk on it evenly is cross winding.
Each reel can accommodate about four ends. The reeler takes a hand-
ful of cocoons and keeps the water in the basin at boiling point, and cooks
them. After removal of floss by cooking, with the help of a stick he collects
the ends of all the cocoons. He holds them in a bunch in one hand and takes
the required number of filaments from the cocoons for passing through the
tharapatti. After the thread passes through the tharpatti, two threads are
interwined in the form of a croissure and fed to the charka reel through
the distributor guide. The thread so formed is attached to the reel and is
rotated manually by a separate turner.
In this method of reeling, it is not possible to produce high grade or
find quality of silk as the denier will not be uniform. This is because the
number of cocoons in reeling cannot be maintained uniformly throughout
as the cocoons are kept in large number at high temperature in the basin. In
this method, even the inferior cocoons are reeled, and therefore the quality
of the silk is not superior. The water in the basins becomes dirty and coloured
due to continuous boiling and reeling hence, the raw silk obtained will be
dull in colour. Knotting is not possible whenever three are breaks, so there
will be a number of loose ends in the silk reeled. This will result in more
winding breaks and winding waste. The reeler has to change the water in
the basin 4 to 5 times in a day.
In this system, the cocoon is reeled up to the last layer of silk in the
cocoon by maintaining the high temperature in the reeling basin and, hence,
the yield of silk from a cocoon unit is more while the renditta will be less.
The production of silk is also more compared to the other methods in a
given time. There is only one type of waste, called the charkha reelers waste.
The silk yarn produced in this system contains more slubs and is not clea. It
is generally used as weft quality in certain types of fabrics.
Fig. 7.7. Charka Reeling Fire Place
Fig. 7.8. Country Charka Reeling
Reeling 85
7.4.1.2. Domestic Basin
In order to overcome the deficiencies in the quality of silk reeled in
the charka reeling system, the domestic basin is designed to make improved
quality of raw silk. The domestic basin unit consists of sets of two reeling
basins and one cooking basin fixed on a platform of convenient height. The
cooking basin is fixed exactly in front of the two-reeling basin unit to fa-
cilitate cooking as well as transferring of the cooked cocoons to the reeling
basin. The system of single pan cooking is followed and the cooked co-
coons are transferred to the reeling basin.
Cottage Basin
Another system, which is used widely in the reeling industry is the
cottage basin. It consists of a separate cooking unit comprising three or
four cooking basins fixed in a row. The cooking is done without disturbing
the reelers. The reeling unit consists of 4-6 reeling basins fixed on a table.
The reeling basin is made of copper sheet and the dimension of this is
generally 45 x 25 7.5 cms. Hot water for the reeling basin is supplied through
a tap drawn from the water drum fitted in the cooking unit. The croissure
frame and the drive wheels on the transmission shaft are made of either
wood or iron. Each basin is designed to reel 4-6 ends. To facilitate the easy
attachments of filamets, and jettebouts are provided for each basin. Each
basin has its independent croissure frame designed for application of the
travellette croissure. The reel frame consist of an angle iron or wooden
frame fitted about one meter away and parallel to the reel bench. The height
of the reel bench is generally about 150-170 cms. From the ground to en-
able the knotter to move about freely in the passage and attend to the knot-
ting of threads. The reels are driven by drive wheels fitted on a common
transmission shaft. The traverse mechanism at the end of the transmission
Fig. 7.3. Improved Machine and Fire Place
shaft consists of the required gears and cam for imparting to and fro
movement to the traverse bar, and at the other end of the transmission shaft
a handle is fitted for rotating the reels.
This is a slightly improved design over the domestic basin which is
in line with multi-end basins. The cottage basin has overhead small reels
with separate equipment for re-reeling. The rest of the details are similar to
the domestic basin machine.
Fig. 7.8. Cottage Basin Reeling Machine
7.4.1.2. Multi-end Reeling Machine
The multi-end reeling machine has a slow speed reeling and thread
production on small reels with multi-ends. The slow speed reeling manimizes
and thread breaks. Re-reeling is easier and there is less waste. It provides a
mechanical device to aid production of silk of improved quality. The reeler
is not strained in the performance of the reeling operation. This concept of
the reeling technique has brought about a radical change in the design and
operational technique.
The multi-end unit consists of a cooking cocoons automatically to
suit this particular system of reeling. The reeling unit consist of two paral-
lel row of reeling basins with a set of overhand small reels. The reel bench
is of convenient height to enable the worker to sit on a stool and reel.
Reeling 87
The reeling basin is rectangular and 10-12 cms. Deep with the outer
edges well rounded. It is made of copper and is tinned inside. The basin is
served by a built-in overflow drain. Each basin has many jetterbouts as
there are reeling ends. Provision is made for application of the travellette
croissure.
The reels of the multi-end machine are of a small size with a cir-
cumference of 60 to 75 cms. The machine is made of light metal or hard
frame a having six reel bars made of hard wood. Each reel has, on one side,
a rim of round stainless steel or brass encircling the reel bars. It is designed
to wind upon itself only one hank. Each basin has as many reels as there are
reeling ends. The reels are slipped over a common carrier shaft driven by
connecting gears from the main shaft. The shaft is provided with a me-
chanical brake to stop the whole series of reels on it whenever it is neces-
sary. Each reel can also be stopped by a stop motion device provided for
each reel which works automatically on the appearance of larges slugs and
waste in the raw silk thread.
All reeling machines are provided with porcelain button thread
guides with a tiny aperture for the thread to pass though. The machine is
provided with speed regulators. The machine is made free from vibration
to ensure better durability. The multi-end machine ensures increased pro-
ductivity, superior quality of reeled silk and reduces waste. The silk reeled
has to be re-reeled on standard reels of the re-reeling machines.
Fig. 7.11. Multi-end Reeling Machine
7.4.1.4. Automatic Reeling Machine
The reeling of cocoons is done by mechanization of various pro-
cesses like cocoon boiling, brushing, end picking, end feeding and reeling
of filaments from the cocoons. The following are the operations.
a) Size Controlling:
The machine is provided with a denier controlling mechanism
through which the size of the thread is controlled by the change of the
friction of the reeling thread passing through a slot between two discs. This
is called the size detector.
b) The mechanisms of feeding the end of the cocoon filament is of
two types. In one type, the apparatus for feeding the ends circulates around
the reeling parts and in the other; the apparatus is fixed in position. This is
called the automatic end picking apparatus. The whole process of end pick-
ing is done automatically.
c) Supply of cocoons to the feeding apparatus. Cocoons are supplied
to the feeding apparatus by a device of two types the rotary type and fixed
type, In both types, and indication by the size detector, the cocoons are
supplied, one by one. Precisely and quickly, till the desired size is arrived
at. Care should be taken to see that the ends of the cocoon filament are not
missed and to eliminate the dropped cocoons.
d) Reeling :
Reeling is a mechanical operations in the qutomatic reeling ma-
chine. The size of raw silk is controlled by the size detector and enables
reeling silk yarn of uniform size. The machine has several devices such as
the variable speed motor, traverse, cocoon conveyor, stop motion of small
reel, rotation calculator, etc. which make the machine efficient. Pupae and
dropped cocoons are collected at both ends.
The advantages of automatic reeling are maintenance of uniformity
in size and higher productivity and the product is generally of superior
quality-neat and clean. The labour requirement in the automatic reeling
system is also much less.
Fig. 7.12. Automatic Reeling
Machine (Japan)
Reeling 89
7.4.1.5. Semi-automatic Reeling :
This process is the same as in case of the automatic reeling ma-
chine except that the cocoons are supplied manually for reeling.
Fig. 7.13. Winding and Rewinding Machine
7.4.2. Amelioration of Water for Reeling :
7.4.2.1. Importance :
In a silk reeling establishment a large amount of water is used for
cocoon cooking, silk reeling and re-reeling, in a addition to its use in the
boiler. About 15,000 gallons of water are used to manufacture about
1000kgs. Of silk yarn. It is essential to select the quality of reeling water
carefully as it has grave effects on the reeling efficiency. The water used for
silk reeling should be free from impurities as many animal fibres like silk
have a decided tendency to fix any substance found in water. Such water
alters the appearance of the fibre as its luster becomes dull and matte, thus
reducing the quality of the silk, coloured organic matter in suspension may
also spoil the colour and luster of the silk.
The hardness of water affects essentially the surface characteristics
of the raw silk-colour, luster softness etc. This is due to the fixative effect
of the sericin fibre on the salts.
Silk reeled in hard water poses difficulty in dyeng since a greater
quantity of soap is to be used for degumming.
The standard quality of reeling water is shown in the table below.
For the boiler we require water which produces less scales. Water
with a certain degree of hardness has a favourable action on the unwinding
of the filament of the dry cocoon because of its greater solvent effect
compared with that of soft water. Rain water is not considered suitable for
reeling.
7.4.2.2. Corrective Methods :
Elimination of suspended matter in water is done by sedimentation.
Filtration : Water is allowed to pass through layers of sand, char-
coal and gravel. This removes suspended impurities.
Correction of hardness of water can be done by passing the water
through the water softener. Correction of alkalinity can be done by additing
citric acid, tartaric acid or lactic acid.
7.4.2.3. Boiler Water :
Water for use in the boilers which provide steam for heating the
reeling water should be as little hard as possible and devoid of substances
that may cause corrosion of the boiler plates. The water hardness should
not exceed 5 PPM in terms of calcium carbonate. The use of hard water in
the boiler, due to precipitation and deposition of dissolved minerals and
salts, leads to the formation of scales on the inner walls of the boiler which
Sl .No . I t e m St a nda r dc onc e nt r at i onRa ng e o fc onc e nt r at i on
Col our and cl ear nes s
Sme l l
Sus pens i on and s edi ment
pHof wa t e r
pHof wat er af t er bei ng boi l ed
Speci f i c el ect r o conduct i vi t y ( Mi c r o mu o / c m)
Ha r dne s s ( odH)
Col our nes s and cl ear
No s me l l
N o
7 . 0
8. 6 - 9. 0
1 0 0
1. 7 - 2. 4
- -
- -
- -
6. 8 - 7. 4
8. 4 - 9. 4
30 - 300
0. 5. - 5. 0
Re e l i ng 91
cr eat es di st ur bance i n t he pr opt r ansm f uel cons umpt i on.Tw car bonat e and cal ci umhy passi ng i t t hr ough col um 7. 5.RE - RE E L I NG
G l engt hs of f i ne si zes, br oken t hr eads, ent angl em l engt hs of l oose t hr eads.p was t age of mi al , cons umh t wi st i ng oper at i ons.At he r ee e l kar e r em r e- r eel i ng.Th si l ki s r eel edont oa st andar dr e o r e- r eel i ngm The r e- r el i ng ma ver y s i m woo can acco t osi xends f or gr an r eei n pi gt ai l gui de hoo t eda eq ar r angemo t s own r eel has a r ackat t achm ent er i ng and des i gned t o car r y one ha t ween t w i ng he f l yi ng br oken t hr ead o onh adj acent hand and g r eel ed of pr event ed by pr oj ect i ng boar d t r aver se, wher e t he t hr ea s pp gui de ho of t hr eadt ensi oni s f or cor r ec di st r i but i ont ht h t i ght wi ndi ng.
9 2 R
The re-reeling operation is simple and silked jog. The direct reeled
silk hank gummed threads at the reel points are loosened and placed over
the swift. Wetting agents can also be used to soften the gummed threads.
The thread end from the outer surface of the hank is taken over the tension
rod and through the guide hole of the traverse and attached to the reel. The
reels begin to revolve when brake is released where the thread from the
hank is pulled and unwound to wind on the reels of the re-reeling machine.
During the process of re-reeling thread breaks occur at a weak spot as it
cannot withstand the tension. Then the operative removes the length of thin
thread from the hand on the swift before uniting the broken ends and re-
starting the rewinding operation.
Thread end
of the hank
Tension rod
Guide hole
of traverse
to the reel
Re-reeling process
Fig. 7.15. Re-reeling
Re-reeling machine is used for rewinding the silk from small reels
is almost similar to the machine explained earlier. This machine lacks swift
rack and the silk is reeled off by placing the reels on the ground. The reels
are watted by water or mild wetting agents before re-reeling (Fig.7.15).
In any case re-reeling is the process which facilities the packing, where
direct reeled silk is wound on to a standard reel (1.5 mts. In circumstance) to
make skeins of a certain length, width and weight. The weight of the skein is
generally kept at 70 gms. Upto 33d, and 140 gms above 34 denier raw silk.
Reeling 93
7.6. SILK EXAMINATION
The raw silk hank is visually examined before it is skeined. The
silk examination is carried in rectangular hall running east to west and hav-
ing sky lights of special ground windows on the northern side. It is done in
good defused natural light. Artificial lighting is very rarely restored to.
First raw silk hank is stretched on the silk examination stand. Then
reel points or the ribbed places of the hank are opened carefully by rubbing
till the silk filaments are loosened. This process is carried carefully. After
opening of the ribbings, the easily removable direct dirt and other defects
(i.e. loose threads) are carefully picked and removed. Then long knots are
trimmed properly by scissors. And broken knots are repaired properly. Fur-
ther coarse and too fine lengths of thread are removed.
Fig. 7.17. Silk Cleaning and skeining Fig. 7.16. Silk Examination
7.7. LACING AND SKEINING
7.7.1. Lacing
In this process the two ends of the silk hank are tied with coloured
thread. To keep the diamond pattern of the hank from disc leveling threads
of different colour are laced in between to keep the hank in position. Lacing
is a process in which a thread passing across the hank in such a way so as to
devide it into five equal parts. So that the threads are kept in place to ensure
that the thread can be unwound easily. Unlaced silk has threads in an
entargled manner, which results in breaks and finally wastage of silk. Lac-
ing is done with silk or cotton thread which can be snapped or broken easily
by hand (Fig. 4.15). generally coloured silk thread is used for securing the
ends and white thread for the lacings. For differenciating different denier of
silk different coloured threads are used.
Fig. 7.19. A. Skeining B. Twisted skein
7.7.2. Skeining
After cleaning and lacing the raw silk is skeined. It is done by twist-
ing the hank several times and folding it upon itself in a number of spirals
in such a manner that the silk threads in the hank do not get ruffled or
entangled of the silk subsequent process of booking and bundling and gen-
eral handling of the silk until it is opened for use in the twisted operation.
The skeining process is carried by a separate set of operatives using skein-
ing machine or a turner.
In skin making one end of the laced hank is carefully passed over a
short brass tube held in the palm of the operative. Then operative gives
several turns to the handle by holding the silk hank tightly. Further the
operative places his fingers at the centre of the twisted hank and folds the
hank upon itself. Because of the twisting given previously the hank when
folded turns by itself in spirals.
Fig. 7.18. Lacing (a,b,c)
Reeling 95
After unhooking the hank from the skeining machine and slips
through the loop the other end of the hank held in the palm. Thus the end
emerging from the loop is opened out and extended into a circle which is
known as the flower or fiacco crown. This structure protrudes about 1.5 to
2 cm above the loop. The silk thread of the loop are carefully spread out in
a fascia about 5 cm wide. The standard loop posses five district spirals, a
loop and fiacco (Fig. 7.19). This skin is inserted with a slip of paper bear-
ing the number of the basin.
7.8. BOOK MAKING AND BAILING
All the skeins are made into books and bailed. The skeins are made
into neat books of approximately equal weight and dimensions in a book-
making machine. In each book there are eight skeins in the horizontal row
and five in the vertical row. (Fig. 7.12). These books are neatly tied with
separate cotton bands at three places and wrapped in tissue paper. The books
are further wrapped in thin cotton cloth first and later in Hessian cloth.
These are packed details about the number of skeins in a book, with their
denier are marked for marketing. The different types of packings are as
follows.
Fig. 7.21. Silk Bailing and labelling
7.9. STORAGE OF SILK
The bales of silk are stored in humidity-free, air-tight rooms to
protect the silk from damage. The necessary fire-proof arrangements are to
provided. The store room should be well protected from insects.
Fig. 7.20. Silk Booking (A,B)
Fig. 7.22. Silk Books
Reeling 97
Reeling or unwinding of silk cocoon is carried directly or indirectly.
Reeling is a technical and skilled job performed by a trained per-
son.
Depending on the required denier the required number of baves are
taken from standard size of raw silk.
The jettebout is aimed to main regularity of size and continuity of
silk thread. Threader (Country charka), porcelain button (cottage
basin), jettebout in improved reeling-units are used.
Intertwining of silk baves is technically called as croissure.
There are chambon and tavellette type where former is primitive
later one is universally accepted.
The reels are aimed to draw off the baves-from the cluster of
cocoons. To help in forming a continuous thread and to wind up
itself the thread of raw silk produced.
There are small reels, standard reel, primitive reels.
The silk thread coming from croissure has considered amount of
water which affect the quality of silk. The excess water is removed
using traverse.
Grant reeling is to make a particular pattern and number of webs
across the face of the hank.
The defects of reeling such as short lengths of fine sizes, broken
threads, entanglements, hard gum spots, short lengths of loose
threads are rectified in re-reeling, while reeling on to a standard
reel of re-reeling machine.
The reeled silk is visually examined to remove dirt and other
defects after opening the ribbings.
The cleaned silk hank is laced into five parts and tied with silk or
cotton threads. The two ends are tied with colour threads while colour
is used for middle laces.
Skeins are made by twisting the hank and folding at the centre. This
is made to give a flower or fiacco crown.
The skeins are made into books and bails. Each bale contains 133
lb o r60 kg. weight.
SUMMARY
QUESTIONS
I. SHORT QUESTIONS
1. Define reeling.
2. What is direct and indirect reeling ?
3. Mention the states where large number of handlooms are seen.
4. Mention types of threaders.
5. Define rose.
6. Define balloon.
7. What is the importance of jettebout ?
8. Mention types of Croissures.
9. What is the purpose of croissure ?
10. Write the sizes of reels.
11. What is the importance of reel ?
12. What is the purpose of treaverse ?
13. Define re-reeling.
14. What is the purpose of silk examination ?
15. Define lacing.
16. Where do you use colour threads in lacing ?
17. Define skeining.
18. What is fiacco crown ?
19. Define book.
20. What do you mean by silk bale ?
Reeling 99
II. ESSAY QUESTIONS
1. Discuss about the reeling operations briefly.
2. Details the process of re-reeling.
a) Silk examination b) Croissures
a) Lacing b) Book making c) J ettebout
a) Reels b) Storage of silk
8
RAW SILK TESTING & ECONOMICS
8.1. INTRODUCTION
In any industry it is necessary to test the end product before it is
being used on other industry. The silk (raw silk) is tested and graded as per
the standard methods before marketing. It is beneficial to the reeler and
also weaver. For this process Silk Conditioning and Testing Houses have
been established at considered cost. These centers also finds actual mer-
cantile weight of raw silk by subjecting the raw silk to a process known as
conditioning or desiccation.
The silk classification is based on evenness, cleanness and neatness
supported by size deviation, strength, elongation and winding. The advan-
tages of testing and classification are as follows.
Finding out the correct mercantile weight of raw silk.
Quality ensures equitable transaction between seller (reeler) and
purchaser (weaver).
The detailed certificate of quality issued by the organization is ac-
ceptable to all.
The organization reveals to the reeler the preference of the pur-
chaser for particular quality.
The investigations conducted at the testing and conditioning orga-
nization would lead to evolving remedial measures to avoid reoc-
currence of defects in rearing and reeling.
Sericulture is a labour oriented agro-industry. It plays a vital role in
the rural economy of our country. It has two broad sectors (i) production of
cocoons and (ii) production of raw silk. The production of cocoons which
comprises growing of food plants and rearing of silkworms, represent the
agricultural base. The production of raw silk, largely through cottage appli-
ances are located in rural and semi-urban areas. Besides these there are
large scale reeling units involving sophisticated reeling machines (filature).
This industry requires machines, technical man power and quality raw
material. Further reeling of cocoons is an artistic occupation. In this process
the yarn of at least 10-12 cocoons are processed to form a raw silk yarn for
further processing in the weaving industry. Keeping in view of the benefit
of the learner, economics records used in reeling industry, by products and
their utlisation are discussed in this chapter.
8.2. TESTING METHODS AND PARAMETERS
8.2.1. Parameters Concerned to Silk Quality :
a) Raw Silk
It is understood to be a continuous thread from beginning to the end
of the skein. This tread is reeled from several cocoons.
b) Skein
The International Standard Skein should be 148-150 cm (58-59)
in circumstances with ribbing not more than 2cm at any one of the
six ribs. It may have 8-13 diamonds across the face of the 7.5 cm
wide hank. It should be without hard gum spots and weight be-
tween 65-70 gm. Upto 12 denier, 70-85 gm, upto 24 denier, 80-90
gm upto 32 denier and 90-100gm above 32 denier.
c) Denier :
As per International agreement made in a coference in Paris in 1900
a weight equal to 0.05 gm is known as denier. The size of the thread
is indicated by the weight of a 450m skein in denier (0.05gm or
9000m. thread weight 1 gm).
d) Standard Condition :
It is the condition in which raw silk contains moisture equivalent to
11% of the absolute dry weight of raw silk.
e) Standard Bale :
It indicates 60 kg. or 132.3lb weight of raw silk. This unit is called
a picul.
f) Standard Atmosphere :
Relative humidity 65% (2) and temperature 25
0
C (2)
8.2.2. Testing Methods :
There are two categories, visual and mechanical tests.
Raw Silk Testing and Economics 103
A. Visual Tests.
The raw silk visually to dermine.
i) uniformity of colour, luster and feeling;
ii) condition of general finish;and
iii) nature of the lot.
The visual test is very important from the point of view of grading.
In this test all the books and skeins in lot are taken as a test sample.
All the visual tests are conducted in a standard visual inspection room. The
room should have a window directly facing north to enable full utilization
of sunlight, free from the reflection of any surrounding object. If not artifi-
cial light can also be used for visual test.
The visual test examines the
Reeling defects i.e. hard gum spots, gummed skeins, irregular
traverse, double ends.
Finish defects i.e. improper lacing, dropped threads, disturbed
traverse, loose end, double ends.
Makeup defects i.e. irregular skeins, improper skein twisting, raised
threads, cut ends, streaky threads, gum knots on skeins, foreign
matter on skeins.
Damage defects friction damage, insect-eaten thread, discoloured
skeins, soiled thread, deformed books, gummed books are identi-
fied which are intern used to grade the silk.
Mechanical Tests :
It includes the following tests.
i) Winding test
ii) Size test
iii) Evenness variation test
iv) Cleanness test
v) Neatness test
vi) Tenacity and elongation test
vii) Cohesion test
viii) Conditioning of Raw silk.
i. Winding Test.
In winding process the silk skein is transferred to bobbin. The weaver
winds these skeins to the bobbins for making for making warps and wefts
for weaving. This process indicates brakes, knots, which are loss to the
buyer, further it increase production cost. This winding test favours to esti-
mate the probable number of breaks in a given unit of silk. The skein is first
conditioned in a standard atmosphere for two hours before winding. After
conditioning the test samples, skeins are rubbed gently to soften all the
gum spots. These are mounted on to the swifts. Then traverse motion wind-
ing machine is adjusted according to the length of the bobbin. After then
skeins are wind with specific speed as per the denier shown below.
Filature Silk/meters Charka Silk
12 denier or below 110 90
13 to 18 denier 140 110
19 denier and above 165 140
ii. Size Test
The size of raw thread is given by the weight expressed in denier (1
denier =0.05 gm) of samples of 450 meters of thread. These small skeins
are commonly called as sizing samples, are prepared by hand reels or mo-
torized winders. This method favours to findout the average size, standard
size deviation and maximum size deviation expressed in deiner for all classes
of raw silk. In order to know how much length of raw silk contains a spe-
cific weight contains, the average denier/size of raw silk is determines.
Maximum size deviation and standard size deviation is expressed by the
higher of the two differences i.e. the difference between the average size
and average size of a known number of the coarsets skeins, and the differ-
ence between the average size and the average size of the same number of
the finest skeins. The standard size diviation is expressed by the square
root of the quotient obtained by dividing the sum of frequency of the devia-
tion of the individual observed size values from the mean by the number of
observations.
Average size =Arbitrary mean + x class interval
FD
N
Standard size deviation = - x class interval
Maximum size deviation =
Average of four coareset skeins - Av. Size =(1)
Average of four finest - Av. Size =(2)
Higher of (1) or (2) will be the maximum size deviation.
For filature silk of 33 denier or below, 200 test skeins each of 450
metres length at the rate of 4 test skeins from each of 50 bobbins from the
test sample. For 34 denier or above, 400 test skeins of 112.5 mts. Skeins
from each of 50 bobbins for the test sample.
For charka silk of 33 denier or below, 40 skeins each of 450 metres
length at the rate of 4 skeins from each bobbin from the test sample. And
for 34 denier or above, 80 skeins each of 112.5 metres length at the rate of
8 skeins from each of 10 bobbins from the test sample.
iii. Evenness Variation Test
This parameter indicates the uniformity of thickness of raw silk
thread in a longitudinal direction. If uniform thickness silk is used to weave
the fabric with fixed number of picks and ends will not snow any thick and
thin strips. Generally uneven thick raw silk results when varying number
of cocoons are used per end.
This is examined using seriplane. The panels of seriplane boards
are prepared and placed in the dark room/inspection room. After illumina-
tion of side lamps silk thread is examined by standing two metres away
from the panels. For filature silk 100 panels and for charka silk 20 panels
are assessed by comparing with standard photographs.
iv. Cleanness Test
Sometimes defects like waste, large slugs and corkscrew appear in
the raw silk due to defective cocoons and cocoons of indigenous silkworm
races. It may happen with improper cooking of cocoons also. Besides these
improper casting of cocoons, careless knotting in reeling and re-reeling
operations defects like bad cast and long knots appear in the silk thread.
These defects sometimes are large prominently visible on the cloth. depending
FD
2
N
(FD)
2
N
on the defects there are three classes of cleanness defects. They are super-
major defects, major defects and minor defects.
Super major defects are those which are mentioned above.
The major defects are as follows.
Waste : A mass of tangled cocoon filament or fibre.
Large Slugs : Considerable thickened places in the thread
which are 2-7 mm in length.
Bad Casts : Abruptly thickened places in the thread due
to the cocoon filament not being properly
attached to the thread or adding of more than
one cocoon filament at a time.
Heavy corkscrews : Places in which one or more cocoon fila-
ments are longer than the rest and give the
appearance of a very thick and large spiral
form.
Very long knots : They have loose ends of 10mm and above in
length.
The above said defects with reduced dimensional size are called
minor defects.
The preparation for testing is similar to evenness test using seriplane.
After illumination stand in front of the rack at a distance of above 0.5 metre
for assessing 100 panels for filature silk and 20 panels charka silk.
v. Neatness Test
There are small defects which are classified as detailed below.
Fine corkscrew : Places in which one or more cocoon fila-
ments are longer than the rest give the ap-
pearance of a final spiral form.
Hairiness arld Fuzziness : The condition of the raw silk thread which
shows small, loose ends less than 10 mm in
length and fine particles of cocoon filaments
projecting from the thread.
Loops : Small open places in the thread due to ex-
cessive length of one more cocoon filaments
less than 100 in length.
Knots : Small tick ened places or spots in the thread
less than 2 mm length.
vi. Tenacity and Elongation Test
The tenacity of raw silk is indicated by the load the silk thread can
with stand just when it breaks in relation to its size/thickness. The tenacity
value is expressed in terms of gms/deniers.
The elongation property is indicated by the ratio of the length of the
silk threads stretched to the point of breakage to the original length of the
test sample expressed in percentage. The silk thread has an elongation of
20-25 per cent in standard atmospheric conditions.
Serigraph machine is used to find out tenacity and elongation test
values. This machine has a device of stretching the thread at a specified
speed of 15cms/minute. Further it records the load at the breaking point in
the graph as well as the calibrated scale. The silk thread normally has a
tensile strength of 3 to 3.5 grams per denier. These tests require standard
atmosphere conditions (652% relative humidity, 272
0
C temperature).
Tenacity in gms/denier =
Where Z =breaking load in gms of tests skein
N =number of strands tensioned and
D =denier of test skein silk
vii. Cohesion Test
As we all know that silk filament consists of fibroin (the fibre part
of silk) and sericin (the gum covering the fibre). It is the sericin causes
loops of the cocoon filament to stick together in the cocoon. When these
cocoons are boiled for reeling, the sericin is softened and partly dissolved.
This factor allows the silk filament to be pulled of in one length by a pro-
cess known as reeling. These filaments coming from several cocoons col-
lectively from the raw silk thread.
Z
nxd
The sericin dries on exposure to the air and causes the filaments to
agglutinate. This agglutination enables the filaments to withstand the
friction during the process of weaving. The cohesion test determines the
degree of cohesion of cocoon filaments forming the thread expressed in
terms of strokes. The cohesion property depends on cooking of cocoons,
formation of croissure, length of croissure and speed of the reeling
machine.
This parameter is calculated with the help of Duplan cohesion tester.
It has 10 hooks on each side of the frame and under a constant and uniform
tension of 180 gms the silk thread is subjected to friction at 20 different
places simultaneously. Further it records the number of stokes automatically.
viii. Conditioning of Raw Silk.
Since silk fibre is highly hygroscopic it is necessary to subject it to
conditioning before transaction. This prevents fraudulent transaction in
marketing. The coniditioning oven where raw silk is dried at 110
0
C. this
equipment has suspended balance to record the weight of the skeins with
an accuracy of one centigram. The following formula is used to calculate
the conditioned weight of the test skeins.
W = W
1
+
Where W =conditioned weight of the silk in gm
W
1
=oven dry weight of the test skeins in gm
8.3. STANDARD TESTING APPLIANCES
8.3.1. Winding Frame
It is used to conduct winding test, loading the bobbins and capable
of being adjusted to a speed of 110, 140 or 165 m per minute. It should be
equipped to drive the bobbins from both ends and run smoothly at uniform
spped. The swifts weight about 530 gm and automatic in the their
movements. The bobbin dimensions should be 60mm head, 38 mm barrel,
85 cm length between heads, weight 105 gm (Fig. 8.1).
W
1
x 11
100
8.3.2. Sizing Reel
The skeins are made using a reel of 1.125 m circumference (400
revolutions will yield 450 m of thread) and capable of revolving at a uni-
form speed of 300 RPM, provided with a dial showing the number of revo-
lutions. It is provided with stop motion to stop the reel in case of thread
breaks.
Epprouvette is an equipment having almost same arrangement ex-
cept automatic stop device and is used for single cocoon reeling (Fig. 8.2).
Fig. 8.1. Winding Frame
Fig. 8.2. Epprouvette
8.3.3. Balance
It is to findout the total weight of sizing skeins and should have a
sensitivity of 5 mg and a capacity of 50 gm.
8.3.4. Denier Scale
It is used for weighing the sizing skeins, and have the capacity and
sensitivity as shown below (Fig. 8.3.).
Capacity Sensitivity
40 deniers - 0.25 deniers
8.3.5. Seriplane
It is used to conduct evenness tests, cleanness tests, neatness test.
The standard photographs are prepared and used for comparing the actual
samples taken on inspection board. This is conducted in a special room
known as inspection room. The inner walls of the room are painted with
amt pale grey paint. The floor and ceiling should be in white. The viewing
panel is fixed on inspection rack. The boards are fixed to revolve on two
central pivots. The lighting is arranged with two vertical reflectors with
chromium reflecting surfaces, corrugated and shaped so as to produce a
difused light of uniform distribution. Each reflector is 152.5 cm long and
fitted with six 50 watt bulbs (Fig. 8.4.)
Fig. 8.3. Denier Scale
Scriplane is designed to rotate on Inspection Board and Silk threads
of fixed length can be wound upon it with uniform speed (100RPM). It is
provided with an indicator to show the number of raw silk threads wound
on the panel. Seriplane can accommodate ten filled bobbins which are wound
on ten different panels or black boards.
Panel is section of raw silk 127 mm wide by 450 mm long, uni-
formly wound from a bobbin on to an inspection board. Inspection board is
a flat black, with uniform surface and one meter circumference.
Fig. 8.4. Seriplane
Fig. 8.5. Cohesion Tester
8.3.6. Cohesion Tester
It consists of a framework to place raw silk thread between a set of
ten hook on each side of the frame under constant and uniform tension so
as to subject friction at twenty different places simultaneously. The number
of strokes are recorded automatically (Fig. 8.5).
8.3.7. Serigraph
It is a tensile strength testing machine to record simultaneously the
elongation of the thread. The distance between the upper and lower clamps
is 10cm and the pulling speed of the lower clamp is 15 cm per minute (Fig.
8.6).
8.3.8. Conditioning Oven
It is drying (at 140
0
C) raw silk under controlled conditions. It has a
balance to weight the skeins.
Besides these boil-of kettle, modified seriplane, platform scale, stop
watch, weighing box are also required.
8.4. Classification of Silk
In India the ISI (Indian Standard Institution) (1964) recognizes silk
into three classes, Class-I, Class-II and Class-III, the first two includes fila-
ture and charka silk respectively and the third not falling in either of the
two.
Fig. 8.6. Serigraph
8.4.1. Raw Silk classification
A. The silk shall be divided into three categories according to their size.
1
st
Category - 18 denier and below
2
nd
Category - 19 to 33 denier
3
rd
Category - 34 denier and above
There grades are expressed in the order of 4A, 3A,2A,A,B.
B. Method of classification
i. Grading according to major tests
The 33 denier and finer categories are graded according to lowest
percentage of size deviation, evenness variation I, Evenness Variation II,
Cleanness. Average Neatness and Low Neatness. The 34 denier and coarser
are graded according to lowest percentage of size Deviation, Maximum
Deviation, Evenness Variation I, Evenness Variation II, Cleanness, Aver-
age Neatness, Low Neatness.
ii. De-grading according to Auxiliary Tests
Any one values of Maximum Deviation, Evenness, Variation III,
Winding, Tenacity, Elongation or Cohesion indicates silk grade.
S.No. Tests (Auxiliary) Value Grade
Maximum Deviation Evenness
Variation-III, winding
Tenacity, Elongation or
Cohesion for 33 denier and
finer thread
Evenness Variation-III,
Winding, Tenacity Test for
34 denier and coarser thread
Auxiliary Tests
Visual Inspection
(General Finish)
Winding Test
(Skein Finish Inspection)
Visual Inspection
Winding Test
1
2.
3.
4.
5.
Low value
of any one
test
-do-
two or more
values
slightly
inferior
Poor
Inferior
No. of breaks
exceed limits
between auxiliary
test class &
actual class
-do-
declared to the
lowest auxiliary
test class
below to proceeding
test class
-do-
B grade
iii) Average size Variation
Size Variation
20/22 denier and finer 4% either way
21/23 to 26/28 denier 3.5% either way
27/29 and coarser Unless by special agreement, the
average size shall fall within the
size limits specified in the contact
8.5. ECONOMICS
8.5.1. ECONOMICS OF COUNTRY CHARKA AND
COTTAGE BASIN
Reeling is a technical, skilled job involving stifling ,cooking and
unwinding of silk from the cocoons. On an average 10-12 cocoon fiments
are made to form a single thread of raw silk. Reeling requires simple tech-
nique and can be undertaken on simple machinery. Charka units are very
simple, rural oriented and the investment requirements are limited. One
charka can undertake processing of 10kg. of cocoons and produces 1 kg. of
raw silk in a day. Charka reeling ensures employment for two individuals
)one for moving the wheel and other for reeling the cocoons). This kind of
reeling would be a suitable economic source to a small family group, where
the husband can be involved in reeling activity while the wife can attend to
turn the charka wheel. This small family can handle cocoons worth of Rs.
1200/- and can earn Rs. 80/- as a wage component per day. Charka reeling
would be a very good self-employment with little investment towards the
machinery cost. The net return would be 5% per day. However establishing
a 5-charka unit would be economical and better for an individual entrepreneur.
Breaks
12 Denier or finer - 50
13 to 18 Denier - 40
19 to 33 denier - 35
34 to 69 denier - 25
To denier or coarser - 20
Establishment of filatures needs a lot of financial investment. And
it may be difficult for private entrepreneurs to undertake. An investment of
70-80 lakhs are required for the industry of 20 basin units.
Table 8.1. Economics of country charka and cottage basin.
S.No. Details Country Improve
Charka Reeling Machine
Cocoon utilisation in 8hrs.(Kg)
Raw silk production in 8 hts. (kg)
Renditta
Sale of Raw silk (Rs.)
Income from silk waste
@ 10/- per kg.
Total Amount
Production Cost
a) Cost of cocoons @ Rs. 90/- kg.
b) Labour cost
c) Power
d) Depreciation @ 10% on capital
Total Amount
Single Day Income (Rs.)
Income from 1kg. Raw Silk
Highest Income from is proved
Reeling machine
Energy utilisation
10.105
1.101
9.17
473.43
2.69
476.12
424.41
25.00
11.50
0.30
461.21
14.91
13.54
--
15-20%
7.791
0.837
9.30
410.13
3.00
413.13
327.22
30.00
10.00
0.75
367.97
45.16
53.13
40.41
45-50%
1.
2.
3
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Source : Information leaflet - 10, CSR & TI, 1989.
8.5.2. Records and Uses
The records are necessary for any organization to enter the details
from time to time. These also help the reeler as well as weaver. These records
should indicate the details of the following.
i) Purchase of cocoons for reeling
ii) Value of cocoons and price paid.
iii) Weighment and quantity of cocoons purchased.
iv) Cocoon stock register
v) Issue of cocoons for reeling.
vi) Silk production (daily)
vii) Production of silk waste.
viii) Stocks of silk yarn
ix) Inventories of general stocks.
x) Attendance of labour and staff
xi) Financial accounts including the profit and loss statements.
The reeling industry requires good, dedicated workers. The entre-
preneur is required to study seasonal trends and market trends, market area,
market details for better marketing of cocoons and raw silk. The entrepre-
neur should keep a check over the production cost which is based on the
following.
i) Cost of reeling cocoons
ii) Transport charges on cocoons
iii) Cost of fuel
iv) Cost of power and electricity
v) Labour charge
vi) Management and establishment charges
vii) Capital investments interest charges.
viii) Depreciation value
ix) Quality of silk yarn produced
x) Realization value by sale of silk waste, pupa and other by
products.
The total expenditure is arrived at by deducting the realization value
(x) and then the production cost per unit of silk is calculated.
A. Cocoon Purchase Register
It is to enter details of quality and quantity of cocoons purchased
from different markets. Is shows maximum, minimum and average rates,
total value of cocoons purchased and assessed renditta for each lot.
B. Cocoon Stock Register
The receipt weight of cocoons, opening balance of the stock, daily
purchases, daily uses and closing balance of the day are to be recorded.
Every day receipts are to be given on lot numbers to avoid confusion. It is
better to keep separate registers for different varieties.
C. Issue Register
Daily issue of cocoons for reeling are entered in this register.
D. Silk Production Register
The daily production details are recorded according to each reeler.
The silk yarn of different deniers are also entered. It shows the total pro-
duction of silk yarn for the day in the unit.
E. Daily Silk Waste Production Register
Every day the waste silk production, varieties of waster silk pro-
duced are entered.
F. Stock book of Silk produced
This register is to enter daily production stocks of silk yarn. The
opening balance for different deniers, production and receipts for the day,
issue/sales for the day and the closing balance are recorded. The stocks are
maintained denier wise.
G. Silk waste stock book.
It records the production, sales and stock of silk waste. The opening
balance of the stock, issue/sales, closing balance are to be recorded for
different varieties.
H. General Stock Register
The information about all the articles about the organization are
entered in this registered. The opening balance, number received during
the day, number/quantity issued and closing balance for the day are en-
tered.
I. Attendance of labour and staff.
Every day attendance of labour and staff recorded.
J. Fuel stock register
The fuel details such as coal, fire wood, kirosine etc. of the daily
purchases, daily issues and the closing balance entries are maintained for
different varieties.
K. Financial and Accounts Register
The details of all financial transactions such as receipts and pay-
ments, profit, loss, production cost, transport expenditure, miscellaneous
expenditure, wages, salaries, perks etc., are entered.
L. By-products register
The by-product produce of various levels of reeling are entered.
The day wise production, sales and closing balance are recorded.
8.5.3. By products
The different stages of reeling industry yields by-products. This
comprises cocoons, reeling and re-reeling waste, waste water, pupae. All
these waste material are used in various industries and forms a very good
source for substantial returns. The sale of by-products to the respective
industry reduces the production cost of the silk. The reeling waste are clas-
sified as
1. waste cocoons
2. cooker waste
3. reeling waste
4. basin refuse
5. re-reeling waste
8.5.3.1. Waste cocoons
All types of waste cocoons, floss are used to produce spun silk or
dupion silk and are used in rubber industries. The silk thread produced
from these cocoons is of inferior quality. The waste cocoon silk is used in
carpet and coir industries. Pierced cocoons are cut in different shapes and
used in preparation of garlands, flowers, decorative items. These items are
beautiful and cheap.
Fig. 8.7. Dupion Silk Reeling
The piereed cocoons and silk waste are utilized for production of
silk yarn by a process known as spinning. Because these cocoons cannot be
reeled by normal method of reeling. This process involves drawing the
loose lump of waste (floss) containing fibres of small staple length into
slender silvers. During this process the fibres can lie in a more or less
parallel manner. These fibres are simultaneously twisted is spun yarn and
wound on a wooden spindle.
Silk yarn from pierced cocoons is produced by manually operated
pedal charka by a process known as spinning. The system has a spindle
mounted on a platform fitted at the top of the pedal charka. The spindle is
rotated with the help of a rotating fly-wheel which is driven by pedaling
motion.
Fires the pierced cocoons are subjected to degumming process to
remove the sericin. Thus the cocoons become loose and flappy condition.
This loosened material is fed to the spindle by drawing by hand. The spindle
rotates and the twist is inserted into the drawn silvers and simultaneously
the spin yarn is produced and wound to the bobbin. It is a simple, easy
operation. Pierced cocoons are also used to produce matka silk or handspun
silk. The process of spinning is carried by hand with the help with the help
of takli. This silk is rough in quality and used to produce coarse/thick fab-
ric. Hand spinning industry uses pierced cocoons to form silks like ghicha
and katia which are used for producing fabrics like gents chaddar, ladys
scarves, curtains, table cloth and caps.
Fig. 8.8. Hand Spinning
8.5.3.2. Cooker waste
When the cocoons are cooked the cooker waste is obtained. While
picking the ends, the cocoons are brushed. In this process the upper silk
layer is disturbed and peeled off in bunch. This is called cooker waste.
These bunch is dawn to a longer size while it is hot and wet.
Boiled-off-cocoons are discorded at both the cooking and reeling
ends. Though cocoons are sorted before cooking cocoons with thin ends,
holes, stains, flimsiness and pointed ends became waste/unreelabel. These
are drop out from the cocoon basin during boiling and at the reeling basin
during reeling. These cocoons are called boiled-off or burst-open cocoons
and commercially called jelly goodu or water joly. These are over cooked
and water-laden due to water entering into the compact shell due to defects
and all these cocoons are unreelable. These are used in spun silk produc-
tion.
8.5.3.3. Reeling waste
This waste is obtained during silk reeling. During reeling process
the ends are pulled and fed to the reeling button and a part of thread is
broken while doing so. All these are called reeling waste. The thread waste
is generated by the reeler during process of end-finding of the cocoons and
also during the formation of breaks and re-joining of the cut ends. This waste
A) Spun Silk :
It is produced form different types of reeling wastes and some
unrrelable cocoons. It is produced by hand spinning or machine spinning.
It is used as spun silk yarn or indirectly as blended yarn by mixing with
other natural or manmade fibres. The fine quality silk waste like filature
wastes, cookers waste, reelers waste, re-reeling waste, throwsters waste
are of high quality and used in spun silk mills for spinning fine yarn. While
defective cocoon, boiled-off cocoons, palade waste are used in hand-spun
yarn production pierced and cut cocoons are utilized for the production of
hard spun-yarn known as matka yarn. Among the reeling waste 30-35 per-
cent is used for spun silk and 20-25 percent for noil silk production.
B) Pupae :
These are found inside the cocoons. The pupae are killed before the
cocoons are reeled. After complete reeling of cocoon, the dead pupae
wrapped in gossamer/palade ayer remain in the basin. These pupae are used
in several ways.
Food value :
Silkworm pupae have numerous constituents of great food value.
The fat alone is about 30 percent of total dry weight. First the palade/gossa-
mer layer is removed to utilize the pupa. The composition of the pupae is
given in
Table : 8.2. Composition of Pupa
Constitutent (%) Dried Pupa Squashed Fat free
Water 7.18 6.14 5.49
Protein 48.4 60.77 72.82
Fat 99.57 15.0 0.47
Glycogen 4.65 5.78 6.82
Chitin 3.37 4.6 5.55
Ash 2.19 2.7 4.57
Others 1.70 3.72 5.48
In some parts of China, J apan silkworm pupae are used as food.
The pupae are cooked in very hot water or roasted. It is a delicacy to tribals
in some parts of north-eastern states of India. The silkworm pupae are rich
in protein and have a very high nutritive value, but high water content is
drawback. It causes rapid decomposition with emission of a foul smell.
Therefore the silkworm pupae are cooked with rice powder. Leaven is added
to the cooked product to dry it up quickly, and for storing for a longer
period. By adding sugar and water in suiable amounts, the dried material
can be allowed to ferment and to develop a good taste. This product is used
in preparation of silkworm pupal cakes. The pupal oil contains 35% fat and
50% proteins. This oil contains high amounts of vitamen-A. This oil de-
odorization can be conveniently used for human consumption. The protein
of pupae has higher nutritive value than that of beet protein.
The puape as it is (without removing fat content) mixed with poul-
try feed improves egg-laying capacity. It also improves growth of the hens.
The fat-free pupae are used to feed the carps and other fishes. The pupae
are used to feed cattle, besides using in the preparation of dog biscuits,
shampoo, tooth powder, chemicals and medicines.
Industrial Value :
The pupae (25% of dry weight) can be extracted as oil. Even when
fat is squeezed from pupae, they are still left with about half of it. The pupal
oil is used for lighting lamps as well as for preparing soaps. Since the pupal
fat contains no long chain fatty acids, it gives excellent results of washing
when used in preparation of soaps. Adding water to pupal oil to harden and
using it as one of the raw material in the manufacturing of soaps. Further
effluents released during the manufacturing of soaps and detergents, glyc-
erin is obtained.
There is increased demand for bio fertilizers in agriculture. Silk-
worm litter and pupae are very good source for all kinds of plant nutrients.
From defaulted pupal protein artificial fibres and membrances are
made. In addition, peptones are prepared from it. The protein is used as
animal feed. Further pupal protein is used as raw material for preparing
amino acids and flavoured products with high nutritive value.
8.5.3.4. Basin refuse
It is the last parchment layer of unreelable silk surrounding the pupa
which is too thin. It is a broken and cannot be reeled in the normal course.
Silk waste of residual cocoons from the reeling basin are called as palades.
in order to separate the inside pupa from the palade/gossamer layer silk
these are kept immensed in water for 24-36 hrs. and beaten up to squeeze
the pupa out. This is degummed and stretched to form long, drawn waste.
The silk remaining is used for hand spinning or machine spinning.
Water is used for different activities of reeling. This used water
contains dissolved amino acids and vitamins. Thus it can be conveniently
used for plants after cooling.
8.5.3.5. Re-reeling waste
It is obtained during re-reeling and throwsters wastes. Re-reeling
waste includes defects in the reeled filaments like abnormal thickness, gum
spots, spliced ends, broken threads. During this process some portion of
the thread is pulled while picking the end. This silk is a non-twisted silk
waste. Throwsters waste is found during the process like twisting, throw-
ing, weaving and knitting of the raw silk. On an average 100 kgs. Of silk
waste only 16 kg. of spun yarn and 12 kg of noil silk are produced in the
spun silk mills.
The silk besides fabric weaving, also being used in packing for pen-
cils or puff for talcum powder. It is also used as raw materials for sound
free gears. By adding gelatin, casein etc. to squeezed and dried silk fibres,
it is possible to increase their oil resistance to oil, acid and heat. Silk fi-
broin is used to prepare natural fibroin creams. It keeps the skin smooth,
delicate and improves the shining. Further it is also used in shampoo prepa-
ration.
Classification of raw silk is beneficial to the reeler and weaver.
Silk classification is based on evenness, cleanness, neatness tests.
This classification favours to findout exact mercantile weight of
raw silk.
It is important to know about the parameters concerned to silk qual-
ity i.e. raw silk, skein, denier, standard condition, standard bale,
standard atmosphere.
There are two tests i.e. visual and mechanical.
The visual test examines the reeling defects, finish defects, makeup
defects, damage defects.
SUMMARY
Mechanical test examines winding, size, evenness, cleanness, neat-
ness, tenacity and elongation, cohesion, conditioning parameters of
raw silk.
Winding test examines to estimate the probable number of breaks
in a given unit of silk.
Size test is to findout the average size, standard size deviation and
maximum size deviation of all classes of silk.
Evenness variation test is for finding uniform thickness of raw silk.
Cleanness test finds out defects like waste, large slugs and cork-
screw in the raw silk.
Tenacity of silk thread is indicated by the load the silk thread can
stand just when it breaks.
Cohension test determined the degree of cohesion of cocoon fila-
ments forming the thread expressed in terms of stokes.
The important testing appliances used in sericulture reeling indus-
try are winding frame, sizing reel, epprouvette, balance, denier scale,
seriplane, cohesion tester, serigraph, conditioning oven.
Raw silk is classified in class I,II,III and expressed in the order of
4A, 3A, 2A, A,B.
Method of Classification is based according to major tests, auxil-
iary tests, average size variation.
Silk reeling industry economy depends on the production of co-
coons and raw silk.
Silk reeling is mostly depending on cottage industry.
One charka processes 10 kg. of cocoons to produce 1 kg. of raw silk
in a day.
Reeling is unwinding of cocoons using a simple technique.
Establishment of filature is costly.
Reeling records help reeler and weaver.
There are twelve reeling records useful for reeler and weaver.
These record all the details of seasonal trends, market details, reel-
ing details, production details, cost details etc.
By products of reeling industry posses food industrial values so as
to get good self employment in the rural areas which inturn im-
proves rural economy.
Spinning is a process where pierced cocoons are used to produce
silk yarn, using pedal charka.
Matka/hand spun silk is also produced from pierced cocoons.
Boiled-off cocoons are used to produce spun silk.
Silkworm pupae has high nutrient value and used as food by human
beings in Chine, J apan.
QUESTIONS
I. Short Questions.
1. Mention the advantages of raw silk testing.
2. What is the base for classification of raw silk ?
3. Define raw silk.
4. Define skein.
5. Define denier.
6. Define bale.
7. What are he defects encountered in visual test ?
8. Mention some mechanical tests ?
9. What is the purpose of winding test ?
10. What is size test ?
11. Mention the principle to findout average size.
12. What are the tests, that require seriplane ?
13. Mention the classes of cleanness defects ?
14. Mention some major defects of cleanness tests.
15. Define bad casts.
16. Define very long knots.
17. What do you mean by loops in neatness test ?
18. Mention some testing appliances.
19. Mention the classers and grades of raw silk.
20. Mention method of classification.
21. What is the production and utilization capacity of charka reeling in a day ?
22. What are the important uses of reeling records ?
23. Mention any four reeling records.
24. What is the use of general stock register ?
25. Mention classes of reeling waste ?
26. Define by-products.
27. Mention by-products of reeling.
28. What are the uses of pierced cocoons ?
29. Define spinning in reeling activity.
30. What is the use of pedal charka ?
31. What is matka silk ?
32. Define jelly goods.
33. What is throwsters waste ?
34. Define reeling waste ?
35. Mention fat and protein content of pupa.
36. Mention some uses of silkworm pupa.
37. Mention some food values of silkworm pupa.
38. Mention some industrial values of silkworm pupa.
39. What is the use of reeling waste water ?
40. Define palades.
1. Detail about the parameters concerned to silk quality.
2. write about visual tests of raw silk.
3. Mention mechanical tests. Detail about size test.
4. Write about evenness, cleanness, neatness test.
5. Detail about standard testing appliances.
6. Write about classification of silk.
7. Write short notes on.
a) winding test b) seriplane
a) Skein b) sizing reel c) average size variation.
9. Write about the economics of reeling industry.
10. Detail about reeling records.
11. By products of reeling are best source for self employment-discuss.
a) Uses of Pupa b) Waste Cocoons.
1. Silk Worm Rearing, Volume-2-15/2, FAQ of United Nations,
Rome, 1987.
2. Appropriate Sericulture Techniques,Manjeet S.J olly, CSRTI,
Mysore, 1987.
3. Hand Book of practical sericulture, Ullal & Narsimhanna, CSB,
Bangalore, 1981.
4. Hand Book of Silkworm Rearing, Tazima, Agriculture Techni-
cal Manual-1, Fuji Publishing Co. Ltd., J apan, 1992
5. Techniques of Silkworm Rearing in the Tropic, ESCAP, United
Nations, New York, 1993.
6. New Illustrated Sericulture Reader, CSB, Bangalore, 1997
7. New Technology of Silkworm Rearing, S. Krishnaswamy,
CSRTI, Mysore.
8. An Introduction to Sericulture, Ganga & Sulochana Chetty,
Oxford & IBH Publishing Co. (P) Ltd., New Delhi, 1995.
9. Principles of Sericulture, Hisao Aruga, Oxford & IBH Publish-
ing Co. (P) Ltd., New Delhi, 1994.
10. Pattuparishrama (B.Sc.), P. Srinivas etal., Telugu Akademy,
Hyderabad, 1996.
11. Pattuparishrama (Intermediate), P. Srinivas, Telugu Akademy,
Hyderabad, 1996.
12. Text Book of Tropical Sericulture, J apan Overseas Co-opera-
tion Volunteers, J apan, 1975.
13. A Practical Guide to Mulberry Silk Cocoon Production,
Krishnaswamy, Bangalore, 1994.
14. Sericulture Instructional Cum Practical Manual, Vol.II, NCERT,
New Delhi,1990.
15. Bulletins on Sericulture, C.S.B., Bangalore.
16. Hand Book on Agriculture, ICAR, New Delhi, 1992.
REFERENCE BOOKS
128
17. Hand Book on Pest and Disease Control of Mulberry and Silk-
worm, ESCAP. United Nations, Thailand, 1990.
18. Silk in India, Statistical Biennial, C.S.B., Bangalore,1992.
19. Lecturers on Sericulture by Boraiah, SBS Publishers, Banga-
lore, 1994.
20. Global Silk Secnario-2001 by CSB, Oxford & IBH Publishers,
Bangalore, 1996.
21. Annadata, Telugu Magazines, Vasundara Publications, Eenadu,
Hyderabad.
22. Sericulture, Silk Worm Rearing Techniques, Department of Seri-
culture, Government of A.P., 1991.
129
Bave Technical name of silk thread spun by silk-
worm. The two drins coming from two silk
glands are made into one thread at spinneret.
Cocoon These are spun by silkworm larvae as a
protective covering for undergoing pupation.
It has raw silk shell as well as pupae.
Dupion silk The silk is produced by reeling waste
cocoons.
Flimsy Cocoons There are defective cocoons which posses
very thin shell consisting little amount of silk.
Palade layer After spinning compact shell of the cocoon
the shrinking larva wraps itself in palade or
gossamer layer and detaches itself from the
shell to undergo pupation. This layer is very
thin and unreelable.
Reditta It is the number of cocoons required to
produce one unit or raw silk.
It speaks about the value derived from a liter
of cocoons required to produce one unit of
raw silk.
Seriplane It is an instrument used to find out uniformly
thickness of raw silk thread in a longitudinal
direction. I t also indicates cleanness,
neatness.
Spun silk Silk produced from different types of reeling
was and some unreelable cocoons.
Takli An instrument to carryon spinning process
using hand.
Kakame Standard cost of cocoons required to reel one
kg of raw silk.
GLOSSARY
130
Cocoon Sorting A methodical and technical separation of
good and bad cocoons.
Cocoon It is a protective case secreted by larvae in
which pupae develop. It is a source of silk
with reference to silkworm.
Fibroin I t is one the silk protein secreted by
posterior part of silk gland. It forms the
fibrous part of silk bave.
Sericin It is a gummy layer formed over the fibroin.
It is a protein secreted by middle part of silk
gland.
Reelability Suitability of cocoons for economic reeling
with which the cocoon yield silk bave
Grain or Wrinkle The rough surface of cocoon. Find granular
surface is better for good reeling.
Epprouvette It is an equipment used to measure filament
length of a single cocoon.
Denier Size of the silk bave.
Shell Ration The ratio between cocoon and shell. It
indicates the amount silk.
Floss The outmost loosely kint, fragmented
unevenly thick silk layer of cocoon. It is a
waste silk.
131

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