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A mosaic of flavors THE WINE ROUTE Wine culture Malbec Torrontes Wine producing regions Cuyo Norte Cordoba Patagonia New Landscapes Eno experience Event schedule Tips GASTRONOMY Tourist regions Norte Cuyo Patagonia Cordoba Buenos Aires Litoral Highlights to schedule Argentine classics culinary glossary WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE TRAVELING 4 6 7 9 10 14 16 17 18 20 23 28 30 32 34 36
A mosaic of flavors THE WINE ROUTE Wine culture Malbec Torrontes Wine producing regions Cuyo Norte Cordoba Patagonia New Landscapes Eno experience Event schedule Tips GASTRONOMY Tourist regions Norte Cuyo Patagonia Cordoba Buenos Aires Litoral Highlights to schedule Argentine classics culinary glossary WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE TRAVELING 4 6 7 9 10 14 16 17 18 20 23 28 30 32 34 36
A mosaic of flavors THE WINE ROUTE Wine culture Malbec Torrontes Wine producing regions Cuyo Norte Cordoba Patagonia New Landscapes Eno experience Event schedule Tips GASTRONOMY Tourist regions Norte Cuyo Patagonia Cordoba Buenos Aires Litoral Highlights to schedule Argentine classics culinary glossary WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE TRAVELING 4 6 7 9 10 14 16 17 18 20 23 28 30 32 34 36
A mosaic of avors THE WINE ROUTE Wine culture Malbec Torronts Wine producing regions Cuyo Norte Crdoba Patagonia New Landscapes Eno experience Event schedule Tips
GASTRONOMY Tourist regions Norte Cuyo Patagonia Crdoba Buenos Aires Litoral Highlights to schedule Argentine classics Culinary glossary WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE TRAVELING 4 6 7 9 10 14 16 17 18 20 23 28
30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 48 54 56 Harvester, Mendoza (1) This publication is property of the NATIONAL DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM. Its reproduction, in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. APPROVED BY THE NATIONAL MILITARY GEOGRAPHIC INSTITUTE, ACT 22963 FILE # 08 1291/5 BOLIVIA CHILE URUGUAY TlERRA DEL FEGO, ANTARTlDA E lSLAS DEL ATLANTlCO SR BRASIL PARAGUAY Malvinas Islands (Argentina) A R G E N T I N E
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O C E A N CHACO SANTA FE C O R R IE N T E S ENTRE ROS M IS IO N E S FO R M O SA LA RIOJA SAN LUIS SAN JUAN MENDOZA LA PAMPA NEUQUN RO NEGRO CHUBUT SANTA CRUZ BUENOS CITY OF BUENOS AIRES AIRES JUJUY SALTA TUCUMN SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO C A T A M A R C A CRDOBA 1 2 3 Buenos Aires Crdoba Cuyo Litoral Norte Patagonia Regions Index ::4:: ::5:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Gourmet Argentina Viewpoint at Sptima vineyards, Agrelo, Mendoza (2) A MOSAIC OF FLAVORS Argentina is a vast and wide southern land featuring a wide array of favors that come from the heart of its fertile territory and is a direct result of its varied climates and ecosystems. Traveling across the country can be truly captivating with its many dreamy locations, where each experience is linked to a favor, a landscape and a feeling. Infuenced by different cultures, Argentine food is a unique fusion between the sophisticated European palate and the native strength. National roots and local products can be discovered in every corner of the country, as well as typical recipes and a combination of favors that merge with modern cooking styles. Wine routes are another must do: visitors can enjoy a full sensorial experience framed by the overwhelming beauty of the vineyard landscapes. From north to south there are great examples of the fnest vine stocks, including Malbec and Torronts, Argentinas signature varieties. Argentina offers a true culinary adventure and invites to enjoy high cuisine tours and the favors of its wines and regional dishes. ::6:: ::7:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Wine culture: history and tradition Argentina has an important wine culture legacy that, nowadays, is part of its identity as a producing, consuming and exporting country. Wine is an essential element of the Argentine everyday table and it is a noble beverage that is enjoyed generation after generation. More than 400 years of history support the tradition that combines the essence of the old and new wine-producing worlds. Thi s tradition was originally established by the first settlers that arrived to these lands and brought the vine with them, particularly for producing the wine used in churches during mass. Duri ng the 19th century, wi ne producti on became more relevant with the incorporation of new European varieties brought by immigrants, mostly in the Cuyo region, due to the characteristics of the soil and the weather that favored the development of vines. Currently, 90% of the wine production is concentrated in this region, mainly in Mendoza, followed by San Juan, in terms of volume produced. Likewise, the wine-industry map is distributed among other Argentine provinces, all of them suitable for the development of high-quality vineyards thanks to the unbeatable conditions of the Argentine terroir. In addition to the particularly good conditions of semi-arid or desert soil, optimal for growing vine, good weather conditions improve the health of the vineyards. Appropriate sun and hot-dry winds with no maritime infuence, a controlled irrigation system with meltwater from the Andes, as well as other features that make the Argentine wine-producing region unique, such as thermal amplitude, which can vary up to 20 C (68 F) between day and night, and the altitude of the vineyards, starting at 300 meters (984 ft) above sea level at the Patagonia, with an average of 800 to 1,200 m ( 2,625 to 3,940 ft) at Cuyo and high areas between 1,700 and 2,400 meters (5,580 to 7,875 ft) in the North, reaching even 3,000 m (9,845 ft), position Argentine vineyards among the best in the world. In this region, wine is produced based on a wide range of vine stocks, but Argentina features two characteristic varieties that represent its wines around the world: Malbec, the star among red wines, and Torronts, the queen of white wines. Malbec It is the most traditional variety and helped Argentine wines become internationally renowned. This variety was createdin theFrenchregionof Cahors, andit was brought toArgentina years ago to nd in this land the ideal place to adapt and develop to its fullest. Today, it is produced in all the vineyard regions nationwide, but it is in Mendoza particularly in the Lujn de Cuyo subregionwhere outstanding specimens are obtained. The Malbec grape gives life to top grade wines exported to different markets, each one with distinctive characteristics of this vine stock which vary according to its origin and, at the same time, keeping the specific aspects of eachterroir. It pairs perfectlywell withbarbecuedmeats, pasta and cheeses, among others. A young and fresh Malbec or a more complex barrel-aged variety is an excellent option to explorenewaromatic expressions. Torronts Of unknown origin, though probably linked to the European Muscat variety, the Torronts is a very Argentine white stock, considered almost native. It is possible to nd this variety in several regions, but it is to the north of the country where it can be found at its full strength and potential, particularly in the provinces of Salta and La Rioja. Its strong oral and herbal notes make it a fresh and elegant wine, which pairs very well with spicy foods and local dishes, such as empanadas (small meat pies), tamales, humitas and locros, as well as the new novo-Andean cuisine. If you are looking for new experiences and value added trips, wine tourism in Argentina is an alternative that combines beautiful landscapes with typical local wines and food. Unlike other wine-producing countries, and due to its vast land, Argentina offers a non-linear wine route, scattered in beautiful wine-producing oases which stretch along the Andes Range. From the northern provinces of Salta and Catamarca down to Neuqun and Ro Negro in Patagonia, crossing Crdoba in the heart of the country and the Cuyo region, wine producer par excellence, with the provinces of Mendoza, San Juan and La Rioja: each place is worth discovering the properties that the land provides to the wine roads. Those willing to visit the entire Wine Route will need to devote several days in their journey to enjoy the trip across lands that are as fascinating as they are vast. A delight for curious tourists and those who enjoy a ne drink Tupungato, Mendoza (3) Wine Routes ::8:: ::9:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Wine Routes by Region Each wine-producing area offers a different tourism proposal. With a growing vineyard map, 9 provinces currently form the wine route, combining landscapes and unique wines. They all weave a special and singular route, populated with natural beauty and favors, challenging the senses of those who decide to visit them. Although there are clear differences between each circuit from artisan wineries to modern production facilitiestoday most wineries have state-of-the-art technology allowing for high-quality wine production which, according to the characteristics of the terroir, emphasizes the uniqueness of each wine-producing area. Chaarmuyo, La Rioja (4) Harvester, Mendoza (5) O C E A N O
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A R G E N T I N O Lmite del lecho y subsuelo Lmite exterior del Ro de la Plata Lmite lateral martimo argentino-uruguayo I. de los Estados Islas Malvinas (Arg.) Isla Grande de Tierra del Fuego I. Trinidad I. Martn Garca (Arg.) I. del Cerrito I. Apip (Arg.) Santa Rosa Santiago del Estero San Miguel de Tucumn San Fernando del Valle de Catamarca Posadas LA PAMPA BUENOS AIRES URUGUAY BRASIL PARAGUAY BOLIVIA C H IL E MENDOZA CATAMARCA TUCUMN CORRIENTES MISIONES ENTRE ROS La Plata Ciudad de BUENOS AIRES Neuqun RO NEGRO NEUQUN Mendoza San Luis Crdoba Formosa La Rioja San Juan Corrientes Santa Fe Resistencia SAN JUAN LA RIOJA CHACO FORMOSA SAN LUIS CRDOBA Paran Salta San Salvador de Jujuy SALTA JUJUY SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO SANTA FE Ushuaia Ro Gallegos Rawson Viedma TIERRA DEL FUEGO, ANTRTIDA E ISLAS DEL ATLNTICO SUR SANTA CRUZ CHUBUT 1 21 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 15 14 16 17 19 20 18 22 13 APROBADA POR EL INSTITUTO GEOGRAFICO MILITAR SEGN LEY 22.963 EXPEDIENTE N GG08 0993/5 Wine Tourism Destinations Calchaqu Valleys: Santa Mara, Tolombn, Cafayate, San Carlos, Animan, Molinos, Cachi, Cachi Adentro, Payogasta Fiambal Tinogasta La Rioja (Capital City) La Costa Chilecito and its surroundings Villa Unin Valle Frtil City of San Juan and its surroundings: North, South, East and West tours Pedernal Greater Mendoza / Mendoza River High Zone: Las Heras, Godoy Gruz, Guaymalln, Maip, Lujn de Cuyo East Mendoza: San Martn, Junn, Rivadavia, Santa Rosa, La Paz Valle de Uco: Tupungato, Tunuyn, San Carlos South Mendoza: San Rafael General Alvear Jess Mara Colonia Caroya San Patricio del Chaar Aelo Alto Valle del Ro Negro: General Roca Cipolletti New Potential Areas: Chubut: El Hoyo Epuyn La Pampa: 25 de Mayo Buenos Aires: Sierra del la Ventana, Tornquist, Mdanos Buenos Aires: Berisso Santiago del Estero: Capital City Entre Ros: Coln, Concordia, Nogoy, Victoria Tucumn: Colalao del Valle Jujuy: Maimar 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 WINE PRODUCING REGIONS ::10:: ::11:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Chaarmuyo, La Rioja (7) Cuyo LA RIOJA - SAN JUAN -MENDOZA This region concentrates the largest part of Argentinas wine production, with the provinces of Mendoza, San Juan and La Rioja leading the way. Many wineries are open to tourism in Cuyo, where the vineyards grow from a desert land cultivated by man by means of irrigation channels, ditches and dams that allow exploiting its potential to the fullest. La Rioja: land of traditions This province combines different sub-regions for wine production. The main production area extends from the Famatina Valleys to Villa Union and it has the technology needed to elaborate frst rate products. In turn, the coast valleys reveal the magic of artisan production. Visitors can appreciate two different approaches to wine production and enotourism activities in this province: industrial facilities versus family businesses. There is a cooperative in the Chilecito district that elaborates 60% of the provincial production. The Torronts Riojano variety holds 40% of the 8,000 hectares (20,000 acres) of vine cultivated land. This is used to elaborate sparkling wines of outstanding features and quality. Other white wine varieties include the Torronts Sanjuanina and the Alexandra Muscatel. And the red wines produced there are the Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. The traditional winery route which extends from La Rioja capital city up to Santa Cruz (Castro Barros district) allows visitors to taste artisan wines. Although there are also more select boutique wineries in new production areas such as Chaarmuyo, located 1,720 meters (5,645 ft) above sea level in the middle of the northern mountains, at the feet of the Paimn range. The land of the Aguada is an easy connection point to continue the tour up to the wine production areas in Catamarca, a neighboring province. Talampaya National Park, La Rioja (6) ::12:: ::13:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm the wine experience. The province, home to the Malbec and a fertile territory for a great diversity of varieties, has around 150,000 hectares (370,660 acres) of vine cultivated land and over 1,200 wineries, distributed in five regions. All landscapes are suitable to combine winery tours with adventure travel. Snow, rivers, mountains, lakes, caves, deserts, plant and animal reserves, picturesque cities and important museums offer visitors endless options. The great number of operational wineries open for tourism allow visitors to enjoy a truly comprehensive tour: they can visit museums, cellars, country estates and old mansions, estancias (ranches) in the middle of the mountains; large-scale, premium or family wineries, often managed by their owners. Due to the wine production complexity of this province, its main areas are divided into sub-regions. The east zone comprises the Rivadavia, San Martn, Junn, Santa Rosa, and La Paz districts with an average height of 600-740 meters (1,970-2,430 ft) above sea level, featuring an impressive desert landscape, home to several large-scale wineries. The Mendoza River High Zone, also known as the first wine area due to its old vineyards and their grapes, is formed by famous districts such as Maip, Lujan de Cuyo, Guaymalln, Las Heras and Godoy Cruz. This region is close to Mendozas capital, and famous for its irrigation ditches and parks. It is also the area of choice for tourists, not only because of the great number of wineries that offer wine tours, but also because of the array of restaurants, hotels including lodges with excellent facilitiesand wine museums. Another thriving area is Uco Valley, which includes San Carlos, Tunuyn, and Tupungat o. I t has a l i f e of i t s own and recentl y experi enced a strong expansi on. Thi s area has the i mpressi ve Andes Range as a backdrop for wi neri es with a very modern architectural style. Lastly, there is the southern area, whi ch compri ses San Rafael and General Alvear, two districts full of history and enterprises of every kind, very close to natural attractions of great value, especially for adventure, such as the Atuel Canyon and the dams. Mendoza at t r act s vi si t or s f or many reasons. For wi ne l over s, t he provi nce has a ver y compl et e wi ne t our i sm infrastructure and tourists can participate in a wide range of act i vi t i es, f rom regul ar t our s t o cust omi zed t r i ps t o heighten the senses. Some of the accommodation options include economy and luxury urban hotels, country houses, and romantic boutique hotels in the middle of vineyards. The natural landscapes, framed within the awe-inspiring snowy mount ai n t ops of t he Andes, are al so excel l ent destinations for adventure tourism activities.
Cavas del Zonda, San Juan (9) Wine Aging Rooms, Mendoza (10) San Juan: land of the Syrah Historically, San Juan has been a province dedicated to table wine production, but for the last ten years, production of fne and premium wines has boomed. The soil, weather and new technologies offer many possibilities. This is why today there are wineries equipped with state-of-the-art technology, where internationally renowned wines are elaborated. The Syrah variety stands out, with expressive and fruity wines, although there also good Bonarda, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Torronts Sanjuanino, Tannat and Malbec wines. To the north, south, east and west, wine production areas surround San Juans capital. Each winery has its own identity: some are industrial, others are artisan, some have organic vineyards, some are new boutique developments, and others are very traditional. The wine routes also feature a few champagne-producing facilities, including one located literally in the heart of the mountain, a singularity shared only by other three facilities of this type in the world. In San Juan, the Santiago Graffigna Museum is worth visiting. It belongs to the winery of the same name and shares the story of one of the wine production pioneering families in Argentina and it is a living exhibition of the tradition past. History combines with other provincial charms, such as spending a day in a wine spa or exploring the footprints of time along the dinosaur trail. San Juan is also internationally famous due to the Valle de la Luna (literally, Moon Valley) located in the Ischigualasto Provincial Park, a World Heritage Site, like Talampaya, a National Park located in the neighboring province of La Rioja, two places that form a unique attraction. Mendoza: wine capital Mendoza is the main wine-producing province in Argentina and, since July 2005, it is one of the great world capitals of wine, according to the Great Wine Capitals international network. Thi s puts Mendoza at the same l evel of other important wine tourism destinations such as Bordeaux, Florence, Cape Town, Ri oj a- Bi l bao, Chr i st church- Sout h I sl and, Porto, San Francisco-Napa Valley, Guest Posts and Mainz- Rhei nhessen, where ever y year awards are gr ant ed t o establishments of different category and services linked to Ischigualasto Provincial Park, San Juan (8) ::14:: ::15:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm perfectly well with the local wines. The province of Salta (called the pretty one) offers a great variety of landscapes of singular beauty, with a mixture of puna, jungle, valleys, and ravi nes. The wine-producing region is in a privileged location, surrounded by rich landscapes and culture, inherited from the ancient Diaguita-Calchaqu nation, a part of the Inca Empire. Wineries with ranches, boutique hot el s, i nns and a wi ne spa are par t of a wi de ar r ay of accommodation and relaxation possibilities. The warmth of its people, the authentic food, the ancient villages and craftsmen are some of the important attractions to be discovered along the wine route of this province. Catamarca: white towns and wine There are about 2,200 hectares (5,435 acres) of vineyards in Catamarca, but only a fourth of them produce fne varieties; the rest are devoted to table wine grapes or raisins. At an altitude between 1,200 and 1,750 meters (2,965 and 4,325 ft) above sea level, there are small crops, especially of the Malbec, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Bonarda varieties. The wineries are also small, although they are equipped with the technology necessary to produce high quality wines. The wines produced here are feshy, fruity and full-bodied. Like the neighboring provinces of Salta and La Rioja, Catamarca features mountainous terrains, with ancient and impressive volcanoes, and valleys with towns and different crops. The Fiambal valley, 300 km (186 miles) west of the capital city, is the main vine production area. The other wine-producing oasis is located to the east and belongs to the Calchaqu Valleys, with Santa Mara as a reference point. In general, wineries produce fne wines and most of their production is artisan. The almost desert-like weather is a great ally for the production of eco-friendly and healthy concentrate fruits, an ideal oasis for the vine and other crops such as the olive. The wine route also features the stunning beauty of the landscape and the authenticity of local craftworks, among white towns and adobe churches. Between Tinogasta and Fiambal, in the middle of Catamarcas wine producing valley and along 50 km (31 miles), visitors can go on the adobe route, a tourist and cultural path that features architectural relics built with this material between the 15th and 18th centuries. Pre-Columbian ruins, family homes, churches, oratories and even Cuzco paintings can be found along this singular road. There, the added value of the local favors combines with the signifcant cultural legacy of a land rich in archeology, with millenary settlements of native peoples. Crdoba: at the heart of the country Cafayate, Salta (12) Catamarca (13) Wine tourism in the north of the country is popular mostly in the Calchaqu Valleys (provinces of Salta and Catamarca), a developing area with a singular landscape and unique cultural features that is ideal for taking wine tours and discovering the captivating history and legacy of the area. These valleys, located at an average height of 1,700 m (5,577.4 ft) above sea level, represent the most important productive area, with Cafayate as the leading town. Amidst colorful mountains, small wine- producing oases give birth to intense and spirited wines, with a great strength and unique style. Salta: cultural legacy and high altitude wines As it is mostly the case in this region, the Jesuits brought the vine to Salta in the 18th century. 90% of the vineyards (about 3,200 hectares / 7,900 acres) are located in the Calchaqu Valleys, specifcally in Cafayate. The rest is distributed among Cachi, Molinos and San Carlos. The vineyards in these valleys are called altitude vineyards, reaching maximum heights of 2,400 and 3,000 meters (7,875 and 9,845 ft): an impressing place with a majestic location. The scarce rains, the extraordinary brightness and the temperature amplitude all contribute to achieving fruits of intense flavor and robust wines, with great personality.
Salta is one of the provinces with the oldest tradition in wine production. Moreover, many of the wineries located there date back to the beginning of the 19th century. There are large facilities with a capacity of more than 10 million liters, as well as very small and family owned companies. Recently, the wi neri es have acqui red state-of-the-art technol ogy, allowing them to produce high quality wines. The Torronts grape is the most popular, and the wines produced with it are internationally renowned, as also are the Malbec, Cabernet, Tannat, Syrah, Tempranillo and Chardonnay varieties. The food in Salta is also a highlight of this region, with delicious regional dishes prepared from ancestral recipes that pair Norte SALTA - CATAMARCA Cafayate, Salta (11) ::16:: ::17:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm areas for premium wine production, especially the Pinot Noir and Merlot varieties, in lands located around Parallel 39 (Neuqun and Ro Negro.) Neuqun: success from the very frst generation It is one of the youngest wine-producing areas in the country but also one with great potential. The land and climate are quite different from other wine producing regions. First we have the altitude, which is no higher than 300 meters (985 ft) above sea level. The low humidity, the soil quality, and a temperature amplitude of more than 20 C (68 F) combine to produce highly concentrated fruits with excellent organoleptic characteristics. The resulting wines Merlot, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc varietiesare of good quality, with a remarkable acidity, excellent color, and suitable for aging. This new wine region is centered in the towns of San Patricio del Chaar, Aelo and Chos Malal, located about 70 km (45 miles) away from the capital city. The wineries that comprise this tourist route are modern, with avant-garde designs and state-of-the-art technology. As in all the provinces of the Patagonia, Neuqun has many tourist attractions. The wine-production center is surrounded by prehistoric sites abundant in dinosaur fossils. This is why the winery tour is known as the route of wines and dinosaurs. Wineries have built a real tourist center, with top restaurants and, recently, accommodation and spa facilities within the vineyards. Ro Negro: a path full of favors Wine Tasting (16) Dinosaur Fossil (17) Wine tasting (18) Patagonia NEUQUN - RIO NEGRO CRDOBA Located in the center of the country, Crdoba is a province with many faces, where tourist attractions and production centers coexist. Food plays an important role, with different itineraries designed to discover the regions typical products. Wine production is focused in the Coln district, mainly in the town of Colonia Caroya, only 48 km (30 miles) away from the City of Crdoba. As in other areas, the Jesuits were the ones who introduced wine in this region. At the beginning of the 17th century there were already in the area around 20 thousand vine stocks at the Jess Mara Estancia, close to Colonia Caroya, which was originally a Jesuit ranch. In the 19th century, a second group of immigrants arrived in the area from Friuli, Italy, and introduced the habit of producing their own wines. That was the origin of regional wines. These wines are different from the ones produced in other areas of the country, mostly because they use non-traditional grapes, such as the famous chinche grape, producing wines that represent the local identity and heritage. These unique wines pair very well with a wide array of cold cuts and pickles, which helped this ancient colony forged by the hands of Italian immigrants become famous. The southernmost region in Argentina and in the continent also produces wine. It is considered one of the most promising Colonia Caroya Jesuit Ranch, Crdoba (14) Vineyard, Colonia Caroya, Crdoba (15) ::18:: ::19:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Wine production is focused in the Alto Valle del Ro Negro, one of the most prosperous valleys in Argentina, known for its fruit production (pears and apples, mostly.) The area is known for its untouched environment. This and the temperature amplitude between day and night favors the development of highly concentrated fruits among them, the grape. Tourism is booming in the area. The wine route is usually combined with visits to fruit production facilities. NEW LANDSCAPES Over the years, the wine producing map in Argentina has expanded from the most traditional regions, with a history of excellent products, to new developing areas, which have carried out different projects to grow vine and produce wines in unthinkable places. An example of this is the town of 25 de Mayo, located in La Pampa, with facilities to the south of the province that have proved to be successful wine producers in these desert lands. The resulting wines, like Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, are of good quality and unique characteristics. There are also good quality Malbec, Syrah, and Chardonnay wines. For the time being, the pioneer winery in this area is not open for tourism, but the region will defnitely have a prosperous future. There is a small wine producing valley in the province of Chubut, located at Parallel 42, in El Hoyo de Epuyn. The vineyards here, considered to be the southernmost vineyards in the world, are part of a tourist project encouraged by a wine producing businessman from Mendoza. This project includes a winery as well as cottages that are being built to accommodate tourists in this fshing paradise.
Other regions in Argentina, like those near Sierra de la Ventana, Tornquist, and Mdanos (located to the south of Buenos Aires), offer new wine producing ventures, not open for tourism yet, but which aim at turning these lands into new vine growing centers. This is also the case in the coastal area of Berisso, which tries to recapture the spirit of the past when immigrants produced foot pressed wine. In addition to this, there are other small grape growing areas in Tucumn, on the way to the Calchaqu Valleys (between Santa Mara and Cafayate); in Jujuy, in the town of Maimar, facing the stunning landscape of the Humahuaca Ravine; and in Entre Ros, in the areas of Coln, Concordia, Nogoy and Victoria. Eno experience: more than a simple winery tour Horizon View, Neuqun (19) Cellar, Neuqun (20) ::20:: ::21:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Horse Riding, Mendoza (22)
Wine tourism in Argentina has shown a sustained growth in the last years, and currently has more than 180 wineries open for tourism and a varied schedule of activities and services especially tailored for each type of visitor and occasion. The options vary from small family businesses, some of them with a long tradition, to novel boutique projects, or even large foreign capital investments attracted by a perfect setting for vine growth. In this context, wine tourism is much more than a simple winery tour, combining sensorial experiences in every route and in every season of the year. Both the expert traveler and those taking their frst steps into the wine world can enjoy the countless possibilities of the Wine Route. Some ideas to plan a winery tour: Participating programs: harvesting, pruning and making your own wine. Cooking Master Classes (Traditional or Gourmet Cuisine), linked to regional food. Wine Tasting Classes Focusing on Argentine Wines. Tours through other complementary production circuits, such as olive tour, visit to facilities that produce goat cheese, or tours by areas with sun-dried crops, such as raisins, tomatoes or peppers, according to the region visited. Touring vines on foot, horse, sulky (lightweight car pul l ed by a horse) , hot-ai r bal l oon or bi cycl e. Cultural activities all year long, such as the Classical Music programs in the Wine Routes (Mendoza, Holy Week), and the temporary exhibition of different works of art (paintings, sculptures, photos) i n the cellars or exhibition rooms especially adapted to link art with wine. Interesting theme museums, some of them dedicated to the history of wine production and others dedicated to the arts. Activities to combine the wine route with golf, fishing, polo, adventure and cultural tourism, history, culture and the immensity of nature in every landscape where the vine grows. Wines and astronomy, wine pairing at night. A chance to watch the stars surrounded by the vine, to understand the constellations of the Southern Hemisphere and the relationship between stars and harvesting, especially in biodynamic wineries. Modern facilities with a Wine Spa, where wine therapy treatments can be enjoyed with products derived from grape (skin, pips) and used to make creams and lotions. Immersion baths are prepared in wine tanks, and visitors can also enjoy a relaxing massage with the anti-aging properties of the grape. Charming boutique hotels in the vineyards displaying different architectural styles, framed by the magic of the countryside but with all the comforts of modern life. Wine bars and restaurants in wineries for visitors to enjoy Wine tour, Mendoza (21) ::22:: ::23:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Event schedule Wine therapy Although it dates from ancient times, wine therapy is a novel technique that the French started to practice in Bordeaux. There are wine spas in boutique hotels and lodges, mainly in Salta, Mendoza and Neuqun, a new alternative within the wine tourism route. Visitors looking for pleasure and comfort will enjoy taking a full bath in Malbec or Torronts tanks, having relaxing massages with seeds or an anti-age treatment with creams made with grape pulp and skin, rich in polyphenols (anti-aging properties of the grape). Vineyards, Mendoza (27) Cafayate, Salta (29) Cafayate, Salta (28) Argentine food and wines in a friendly environment, where traditional dishes as the asado (barbecue) and the empanadas combine with other gourmet cuisine options. Wine shops and specialized stores to shop for wines and souvenirs all along the wine route. Wine competitions and tournaments, such as the Rally de las Bodegas (Winery Rally) featuring classic cars, the Maratn de las Bodegas (Winery Marathon), or the Torneo de Polo de Bodegas (Winery Polo Tournament). Local festivities to worship and thank for the vine harvest, including different pagan expressions with traditional dances, music and food. The greatest exponent of these celebrations is the traditional Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia (Grape Harvest Festival). The richness of the architecture complements the charm of vineyards and different building styles can be appreciated: colonial mansions, antique adobe constructions, or even modern buildings with innovative designs. This route integrates all aspects of the wine culture, from the secret corners in the artisan tours to the most luxurious experiences of the world-class facilities. Tourists Harvesting (26) Bike Tours at Vineyards, Mendoza (24) Polo, Mendoza (25) Restaurant, Valle de Uco, Mendoza (23) ::24:: ::25:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Vineyards, Mendoza (33) Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia (National Grape Harvest Festival) This one-of-a-kind event is the most important national festival in Argentina. Every year, on the frst weekend of March, Mendoza receives thousands of tourists that share this major celebration with the locals. More than 1,200 artists perform at the Fray Romero Day natural amphitheater and around 50,000 people attend the show that pays tribute to the harvest. Although there are local celebrations in the different districts starting almost a month before, there are three intense days with parades, celebrations, tributes to the Virgin Carrodilla (patron saint of the vines), and the election of the Queen of the Grape Harvest. Classical Music in the Wine Routes This renowned international festival, celebrated for over 10 years, takes place in the wine routes of Mendoza. To celebrate Holy Week, locals and visitors alike enjoy classical music surrounded by stunning landscapes and accompanied with excellent wine. During these days, renowned guest artists from different countries, along with local performers, share their talents along tourist circuits, heritage sites, wineries, parks and chapels that are the perfect setting for these shows where art, wine and nature combine. Violinist, Mendoza (32) Orchestra at Winery, Mendoza (30) Harvest Festival Queen, Mendoza (31) ::26:: ::27:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Art expressions Associating art with wine is not a simple whim. Most of the wineries along the Argentine wine routes hold collections of valuable pieces, which visitors can appreciate in their cellars, wine tasting rooms and even among the vineyards, in the case of sculptures and other pieces. In the Uco Valley (Mendoza), the Kilka Cultural Complex, located in the Salenteinwinery, houses animportant contemporary art exhibition. To the north, in the province of Salta, the Colom winery features a unique high altitude art museum designed by James Turrell, an impressive work combining light and space within its structure, and holds other pieces from the Hess Art Collection. Wine history There are several wineries that keep a great historical heritage in their buildings. However, some wineries have real wine museums, places worth visiting to learn more about the glorious past of these places where wine pioneers worked the land, ideal for producing this noble beverage. Some of them are the Santiago Graffgna Museum in San Juan; the Wine Museum in Cafayate, Salta, which has been recently renewed; the Wine Shop in Mendoza; the National Wine and Grape Harvest Museum, Casa Giol, in the Maip district; and the San Felipe Wine Museum at La Rural winery, also in Mendoza. Art Room at Winery (40) Wine Aging Room, Mendoza (37) Wine and Art (39) Sculptures, Mendoza (38) Tango and Wine Activities Festivals offer year round activities for visitors to attend while enjoying great wines. Another event that is starting to gain importance combines two national symbols: tango and wine. This festival, organized in Mendoza, presents a series of tango shows in different wineries around the province, for two weeks in September. Vendimia Comunitaria de Cafayate (Community Grape Harvest Festival in Cafayate) Every year in March, Salta land of wines receives thousands of locals and tourists that participate in the harvest held at Las Nubes ranch and come into direct contact with the vine. The festival combines the local wine with the favor of regional dishes, and folk music typical of the Calchaqu Valleysin an unforgettable day in which people of all ages harvest grapes and participate in the early stages of the process that gives birth to new wines every year. El Rally de las Bodegas (The Winery Rally) Every year, in March, a unique event is held as part of the grape harvest celebrations: a competition between classic and sport cars set against the awe-inspiring background of the Andes Range and along an exclusive circuit around the vineyards and wineries of Mendoza. This is a highly demanding sports event for just 100 participating couples, and the most competitive prize in Argentina for classic cars: the triple crown disputed at the mountain rally (Crdoba), the 1000 sport miles (Bariloche) and the winery rally (Mendoza). Route 40 This fantastic route, which alternates paved road and gravel and unpaved road, runs north to south along the Andes Range for over 5,000 km (3,107 miles), and features countless attractions and contrasting landscapes. Particularly in the Norte and Cuyo regions, Route 40 serves as a transverse axis for visiting most of the wine producing areas. Visitors can take a theme trip combining wine and adventure, and even take a detour to contemplate wonderful views and discover unique mountain villages. Tango (34) Winery Rally, Mendoza (35) De las Flechas Ravine, Salta (36) ::28:: ::29:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Wine Aging Room, Valle de Uco, Mendoza (42) Tips Season
The grape harvest season takes place during the summer and the beginning of the fall in the Southern Hemisphere (mainly from February to April). This varies according to the climate and the variety that determines the harvest time in each region. However, wineries can be visited during all seasons. Learning about the different steps in wine production and the magnifcence of the vine landscape as it changes with every season allows visitors to enjoy a unique view. Contemplating the snowy vineyard in winter, the ochre hues in the fall, the frst vine sprouts in spring, or the full grown grapes shining under the summer sun all are one-of-a-kind experiences. Roads Although most of the roads are in very good condition, it is convenient to fnd information about the road condition, the distances to travel, and the weather when planning a trip. In the land of wine, the sun shines almost all year around, but it is useful to plan ahead in order to be able to access and visit the wineries. Distances Unlike other wine-producing countries, and due to its large area (more than 2,000 km / 1,245 miles from north to south), Argentina offers a non-linear wine route, scattered in beautiful wine-producing oases and valleys. Some neighboring circuits have an easy road access, like the micro-destination options, but other distances can be quite long. That is why, it is recommended to plan ahead in order to enjoy the wine experience in more than one region.
Visit to Wineries It is advisable to make reservations in advance to visit wineries in order to ensure the best experience, with qualified guides who speak your language. This is especially recommended for certain facilities which, due to its characteristics, privilege personalized or small-group tours. Accessories Theweather is mostly dry, warmandvery sunny, soit is recommended to always wear sunglasses. It is also advisable to wear a hat and comfortable and safe shoes to visit the production areas, and to take sunscreen with you. During the summer, wear light clothes; and in the winter, bring a warm coat, although winter daylight temperatures can be mild under the sun. (41) ::30:: ::31:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Nowadays, Argentina offers a wide culinary mosaic to be discovered and fully enjoyed as the country thoroughly revaluates its local cuisines. Argentine flavors symbolize and reflect the history of the country. Throughout the country, people in each region have translated part of their culture and of what nature has offered them into tasty regional dishes. In addition to the world-famous Argentine beef, the empanadas, yerba mate and dulce de leche, there are also prized ingredients and fresh produce from all regions. A one-of-a-kind menu where you can fnd unique culinary gems at each destination. Argentine customs include the tradition of sharing family meals, meeting with friends, the ritual of preparing and drinking mate or barbecuing a good asado, eating homemade pasta on Sundays or gnocchi on the 29th of each month. These are everyday examples that show the simplicity with which Argentinians enjoy food and use it as a sign of affection. In this sense, food allows people to socialize, and gives them a reason to get together and share. On the other hand, Argentina has the widest culinary range in the world, with a wide variety of styles, prices and favors, from local canteens, bars, pizza parlors, steak houses and pubs to restaurants that serve the fnest of dishes.
Revaluating local cuisine Gastronomy, Master of Food & Wine (43) Gastronomy Gastronomy, Master of Food & Wine (44) ::32:: ::33:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm best empanadas in Argentina. The most typical varieties are meat and ground corn, with different levels of spiciness or secret ingredients depending on the provinces (in Salta, meat empanadas are made with potato, in Tucumn they are prepared with knife-cut meat and lemon juice.) Empanadas are a small pie of savory dough closed with an elaborate folded edge (called repulgue). Fried or baked, they are delicious to eat with your hands, sitting at a good table, or as a quick bite on-the-go. In general, several northern dishes share a hot favor, due to the spices used (especially hot ground pepper), which are combined with tender corn or lean, sun dried jerked meat (beef, lamb or pork). Stews, such as locro, carbonada and casseroles are also typical of this area, as well as meat and potato pie or meat and pumpkin pie. Also, there is a wide selection of homemade jams, solid pastes or syrups made from quince, sweet potatoes, molasses and chilacayore, which can be eaten alone, and gave rise to a very popular and simple dessert called vigilante or queso y dulce: a slice of cheese (soft or semi-soft) and a serving of fruit in syrup or solid fruit paste. Other luxurious favors in this region include handmade goat cheese, made according to ancient recipes, and the traditional quesillo. Visitors can taste the assortment of cheese varieties and learn about the process of arti san producti on at the di fferent production facilities in the northern region. While visiting the northern region, tourists can discover open air drying places for red peppers, tomatoes and tobacco, covering the mountain slopes with their bright colors. Other easily available products in this area are wild meats, such as lama meat, used in local dishes. Among the typical beverages we can mention coca leaf tea. This is widely used to prevent altitude sickness, as many of these valleys are more than 1,600 m (5,250 ft) above sea level. Some towns i n the north of Sal ta are hi gher than 4,000 m (13,100 ft.) Some alcoholic beverages worthy of mention are t he chi chi made f rom cor n meal and wat er and Purmamarca, Jujuy (48) Discovering the Different Regions of Argentina While many uses and customs are widespread throughout the country and are an essential part of the national identity, some recipes are associated to local produce, to celebrate the natural characteristics of each region and elaborate dishes that are a symbol of their uniqueness and a sign of distinction. Becoming familiar with this flavor palette that crosses the country from north to south and from east to west is a unique opportunity to immerse oneself into the culinary legacy of Argentina and connect with its people through their food. Ancient secrets This is one of the areas most infuenced by native culture. Its food shows a legacy closely related to the Andean-Inca tradition which is shared with other countries on the Pacific coast. Northern dishes almost always include potatoes and corn, as well as quinoa (a cereal typical of Inca cuisine), peppers, pumpkins, and tomatoes. The star dishes are the humitas and tamales, two preparations where maize leaves are stuffed with corn and other ingredients, for the humitas, or with meat, for the tamales. Each place is enchanting and appealing in its own way, and this is combined with the favors and aromas of a cuisine resulting from their culture, a common root shared by all the provinces in this region. The typical dishes in the northern lands of Argentina are prepared with recipes that were passed down from one generation to the next since the times when only locally produced food was available, and which could be obtained through barter (exchanging goods with people of other surrounding areas.) Although empanadas are popular throughout the country, they are particularly tasty in the north. Many say these are the Norte JUJUY - SALTA - CATAMARCA TUCUMAN - SANTIAGO DEL ESTERO Tamales (45) Sun-Dried Peppers (46) Cuaresmillos (47) ::34:: ::35:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Relaxing at Wineries (50) l ef t to ferment in clay pots and boiled afterwardsand the aloja which is obtained from the fermentation of carob beans. This mixture of products makes up for a special program that offers different mini-tours in the region. Among them, Sabores con placer a norte (Flavors with Northern Pleasure) which rediscovers the best kept secrets of these provinces. The program allows tourists to visit production farms, fertile valleys, countryside grocery stores or restaurants of different styles, arts and crafts stalls in fairs and markets, and participate in festivals or popular celebrations, where they can taste many of the local products. All in all, you can become familiar with the culture of these peoples through their traditional cuisine or the new food movement: Novo-Andean Cuisine, which gives new value to local food through modern culinary techniques. Flavors from Cuyo The wealth of Cuyo is as exuberant as its natural beauty, its meats, fruits, vegetables, legumes, and good wines. Each province displays its own characteristics with traditional dishes. Grapes, olives, apples, peaches, pears, plums, cherries, watermelons, melons and chilacayotas, together with walnuts, almonds and chestnuts are used to prepare delicacies such as regional jams, dried fruits, pickles, and crystallized fruits. Alfajores, grape syrup and the traditional tortitas mendocinas (a type of pastry from Mendoza that goes fantastically well with mate) are all great options for both breakfast and tea time.
Every restaurant or inn includes empanadas criollas, wheat locro (made with corn), humitas on corn leaves, patitas de vaca (cows legs) and tomaticn (made with eggs and tomato) in their menu. In this area of mountains and deserts, roasted goat or dishes prepared with goat, like chanfaina, are unrivaled; especially when they add local touches like jarilla leavesto the embers. Jarilla is a wild bush that grows in the Cuyo region and provides these delicacies with a very unique aroma. The Cuyo region also offers good aromatic herbs, used to season dishes or to make beverages. In addition to great wine, this region produces good cider, and fresh and tasty fruit juices, particularly grape juice. Asado con cuero (meat roasted with the hide on), other meats cooked on a plow disc or in a wood fred oven, mazamorra (maize mush) and goat cheeses are some of the traditional dishes eaten throughout the region. For those looking for a more exotic menu, as in the northern region, jerked meat is another option. Almost every menu includes local produce, and fully represents the spirit of the country life, whether the food are modestly made or prepared by top chefs who create interesting modern dishes in beautiful boutique restaurants. Cuyo LA RIOJA - SAN JUAN - MENDOZA - SAN LUIS Food (49) ::36:: ::37:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Breakfast in Bariloche, Ro Negro (52) Feasts in the argentine south The Patagonian region features not only natural beauty and a stunning vastness, but also natural produce of undisputed quality, which are key elements of gourmet cuisine. The Patagonian environment includes mountain landscapes, continental ices, desert steppes, large felds and a vast coastal area, and rural ranches or picturesque log cabins that maintain their original spirit: a mixture of the customs of the indigenous people from the south and the European immigrants who brought their traditions with them. In Patagonia, everything is pure and quiet. It is the perfect place to enjoy a delicious tray of smoked meats and cheeses with a glass of locally produced wine or a wide variety of artisan beers. The variety of local animal and plant life guarantees a one-of-a-kind cuisine, whether by the mountain range, by the sea or at the central area. Patagonian lamb, a local delicacy known around the world, is one of the most traditional dishes of this region, which visitors cannot miss. In the mountains, dishes are usually prepared using fresh trout, salmon and wild meats, like deer or boar. Meat is smoked to intensify flavors. Patagonian cuisine is greatly influenced by European cuisine, especially from Germany, Austria, Switzerland, England and Wales (Welsh culture is very deeply rooted in Trevelin and Gaiman, two towns where Welsh language, cuisine and customs are kept intact), with very popular dishes such as sauerkraut, raclette, fondue, tea and Welsh cake, stews, soups, and liquors. The cooking technique called curanto (which means hot stone) is of Mapuche origin. It is used for cooking all types of meats and vegetables. Due to the strong southern winds, it uses the temperature generated by stones heated in a bonfre until they are red-hot and then placed in a hole in the ground (which is 15-20 cm / 6-8 inches wide). Over the stones, a layer of maqui or calca leaves is placed, and on top of these, all the ingredients to be Patagonia LA PAMPA - NEUQUN - RO NEGRO CHUBUT - SANTA CRUZ - TIERRA DEL FUEGO
cooked. Then, another layer of leaves and wet cloths are added in order to maintain the heat. Finally, everything is covered with dirt and it is left there to simmer, until vapor comes out of the ground, as if it were a pressure-cooker. Towards the coast, especially on the southern end of the country, sea life is so diverse it opens another door to the discovery of Patagonian favors. The spider crab from Tierra del Fuego or the Chilean sea bass are two highly requested delicacies in this region. Handmade chocolates are defnitely worth mentioning. Among the local gems, we can mention chocolate coated cherries and berries in chocolate soup. Again, the European infuence is clear through great chocolate producing techniques and in one of its traditional chocolate varieties: chocolate en rama (chocolate twirls.) Many places allow visitors to witness the handmade chocolate production process and to enjoy a hot beverage together with a selection of chocolates, cakes or other delicious baked goods. There is a great variety of fruits, especially red and black berries, which are very common in the area and are used to elaborate jams. Other commonly used fruits include the traditional rose hip (Rosa Eglanteria), a wild bush, member of the rose family. Elderberry, redcurrant, strawberry, cassis or raspberry jams are all highly recommended. The Argentine south offers the chance to combine unique products, either in high-end cuisine or in homemade dishes, always resulting in delicacies that are not easily forgotten. Fishing in Bariloche, Ro Negro (51) ::38:: ::39:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm jams, alfajores (type of cookie sandwich), wines, aromatic herbs and goat dishes are the stars of these gourmet tours. The cold cuts and cheese route This tour offers two different alternatives: one to the north and the other to the south of the capital city. To the north, there are the areas of Jess Mara and Colonia Caroya, where visitors can appreciate the cultural significance of the legacy of the Jesuit Missions in the province and enjoy some of the best beef and steak restaurants in the area. Colonia Caroya produces wine, something very tradi ti onal of this area. Here, they also make salami following traditional Friulian techniques (caroyense salami), and in the Sierras Chicas there is honey production. This route includes some national festivals, such as Sagra de la Uva (a grape festival) and the Fiesta Nacional de la Frutihorticultura (National Festival of Fruit Growing and Horticulture). To the south, we are lured by the excellent cow cheeses and salami, especially those from Oncativo, home to the Fiesta Nacional del Salame Casero (National Handmade Salami Festival), an event that attracts many visitors. Also very popular is Las Junturas, where we can enjoy the Fiesta Regional del Chacinado (Regional Cold Cuts Festival). Another celebration that completes the gourmet schedule is the Fiesta Nacional de la Bagna Cauda (National Bagna Cauda Festival), of Italian-Piedmontese origin: a casserole of intense flavor holding a sauce made with cream, anchovies and lots of garlic, among other ingredients. Vegetables, boiled chicken, pieces of bread or cold cuts are then dipped into this favorful sauce. This route offers other places where great cheeses (hard, semi hard, soft and fuid) can be tasted, especially in Villa Mara, Luque, Villa del Rosario and James Craik. Annually, the province of Crdoba produces about 2.5 billion liters (about 660 million gallons) of milk and almost half is used to make cheese. The favor route in the Crdoba valleys The Traslasierra valley features many microenterprises that produce artisan delicacies. Mina Clavero and Villa Dolores, among other towns, plant and harvest different aromatic herbs as well as organic products, honey and regional alfajores (flled with dulce de leche or fruit paste.) In the La Punilla Valley, visitors can enjoy the sweet treats offered by Villa Carlos Paz, Huerta Grande, Villa Giardino, La Cumbre and La Falda, where the Fiesta Nacional del Alfajor Cordobs (National Festival of the Alfajor from Crdoba) is held. Calamuchita, another valley, presents culinary options ranging from traditional dishes to central- European cuisine, especially in Villa General Belgrano, home of the Fiesta Nacional de la Masa Vienesa (Viennese Pastry National Fesitval), the Fiesta del Chocolate Alpino (Alpine Chocolate Festival) and the Fiesta Nacional de la Cerveza (Oktoberfest), where the folkloric dances and music brought by the immigrants play an essential part as well. The goat route and fruit growing and horticulture route The best goats are bred in the northwestern area of the province, in places like Quilino and Den Funes. Tourists can visit ranches and farms and, at the same time, enjoy some charcoal-grilled goat meat, a traditional mountain dish. Every summer in Quilino, they celebrate the Fiesta Provincial del Cabrito (Provincial Goat Festival), where people can enjoy asados and shows. This goat route can be combined with the fruit growing and horticulture route (which includes fruits such as peaches, plums, pears, grapes and walnuts). Olive Trees (55) The land of cold cuts and fernet The province of Crdoba is located in the central area of the country. In this province, food production plays an essential role in the local economy, with regional meals and beverages, like cheese and cold cuts, jams and pickles, and beers and wines. The cuisine of Crdoba is different from the cuisine of other places in the Americas due to the huge European infuence which makes it unique. The so-called facturas (Krapfen) are of German origin and the medialunas, known throughout the world by their French name, croissant, are of Austrian origin. Another custom in this area is having picadas (similar to the Spanish tapas) before lunchtime, as an afternoon snack or for dinner. These mainly include soft and blue cheese, salami, olives in brine, little pizza squares, milanesas (deep-fried breaded beef), potato chips, peanuts and whatever ingredient each cook wants to include. As in the rest of Argentina, mate is among the typical hot beverages served at all times. Wecan also mentioncoffee, tea, matecocido (which is different from mate because it is served in cups), coffee with milk and tea with milk, which are the typical variations of tea and coffee. However, Crdoba is famous for a drink that is very popular all over Argentina, but is consumed in signifcantly higher amounts in this province: Fernet. It is a type of bitter drink made from natural herbs and alcohol. It can be enjoyed straight as an aperitif, although due to its bitter taste and high alcohol content, it is usually served with sparkling water or cola drinks, and, in some cases, favored with a touch of mint. Fernet goes very well with the popular picadas. Crdoba has a lot to offer in terms of tourism, due to its rich geography and many valuable attractions. As regards cuisine, there are different production circuits with themed tours, based on the products made in the region, which are part of the local wine route and complement it. Salami, cheeses, olive oils, honey, CRDOBA Homemade Bread, Crdoba (53) Carriage, Crdoba (54) ::40:: ::41:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Needless to say, asado, originally linked to the fertile Pampean land, is commonly found throughout the country and especially in steak houses in the city of Buenos Aires or in peoples homes on weekends (making an asadito is like making a barbecue only using different techniques). In the countryside the asado can be found in its purest form, where a grill or an iron cross is used to prepare it. Here, the meat can also be roasted with the hide on. Asados often include offal, variety meats, and other complements. The most popularoneis the chorizo, called choripn when eaten as a sandwich between two pieces of bread. Other popular side dishes are charcoal-grilled vegetables and provoleta (a thick slice of grilled provolone cheese with oregano). A classic Argentine meal is the milanesa: a slice of meat coated with an egg batter and breadcrumbs. They are usually made with beef or chicken (called suprema). They can be baked or fried, and they are eaten plain or Neapolitan style (with cheese and tomato sauce), in a sandwich (sndwich de mila, as it is popularly called), and with an endless assortment of ingredients, like lettuce, tomato, eggs, cheese, etc., when they are full sandwiches. The city of Buenos Aires offers award-winning international cuisine. Buenos Aires is today one of the most renowned capitals in the world, not only because of its cultural life, but also because during the last years it has gained recognition thanks to its excellent restaurants, which feature different types of cuisine and great talents who prepare gourmet menus. In each neighborhood around the city, there are steak houses, where you can taste charcoal-grilled meats or al asador and different types of offal; canteens, which are old taverns serving flavorful home style food, generally prepared by Spaniards or Italians; pizza parlors, which can be found all over the city; quick bite restaurants, which include the traditional street food vendors or carritos (food carts) along the riverside path (La Costanera), where you can order a choripn (a chorizo sandwich), or a steak sandwich; there are old markets like the one in San Telmo; and hip areas, which currently include Palermo and Puerto Madero as the most innovative places and with a high concentration of restaurants. Although all over the city you will fnd restaurants that transform a simple meal into an unforgettable moment. The Province of Buenos Aires sea coast offers a wide range of alternatives such as seafood and tasty fsh (dogfsh, silverfsh, hake, fried silverside, among others). On the other hand, the countryside invites visitors to enjoy the fresh air and delicious home-style dishes: perfectly cooked meat prepared by countrymen who know how to slaughter the animals and who have great cooking techniques, mate with pastelitos (deep-fried pastries, usually flled with quince or sweet potato jam), and tortas fritas (deep-fried pastry, similar to the French beignets) at any of the rural ranches. The province also shows little towns where local and foreign customs are mixed together until they are almost blended into one. Excellent cheeses, oil and dairy products are produced to the south, in the hill area. There are farms where chickens are bred using natural techniques and where they grow an endless selection of vegetables, something that clearly depicts Argentina as a farming/cattle raising country. De la Mujer Bridge, Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires (58) Countryside and city delicacies For a long period of time, major urban areas like Buenos Aires received waves of immigrants coming from all over the world, but especially from Europe, and mainly from Italy and Spain. Many immigrants also came from Germany, Switzerland and the Middle East. This clash of cultures gave rise to signifcant changes that, undoubtedly, enriched the great culinary heritage of the city. Pasta, pizza, polenta, stews, omelets, croquettes, sauces, cold cuts, and recipes with chicken and meat became part of the average everyday table. Also, there was a growth in the production of baked and confectionery goods, as well as dairy products. Eventually, these foods became completely Argentine. When speaking of pasta, for example, there is a wide range of options, from noodles, fussilli, gnocchi (especially served on the 29th of each month), ravioli, lasagna and fettuccini, to the local sorrentinos, agnolotti, cannelloni and fettuccine. As regards pizza, it can have thin or thick crust, be baked in a conventional oven or in a brick oven, include cheese (mozzarella) or not, be stuffed, and it can include a wide variety of toppings. This is a dish that can be enjoyed anywhere in the country. It is usually eaten with fain (baked chickpea four dough) placed over the pizza slice. It is said that what makes Argentine pizza unique is the mixture between Italian and Spanish culture in our country. In the late 19th century, the Neapolitans and the Genovese opened the frst pizza parlors, but later on, the Spaniards began to run them. As regards baked goods, the deep-rooted tradition of bread production (its consumption is fully widespread all over the country), as well as pastry and confectionery products, comes from the combination of the aforementioned cultures. It is very common to fnd bakeries all over the country. They sell a wide selection of breads, biscuits and cakes, as well as facturas (Danishes), which are made with butter or fat. Danishes can be plain or flled with dulce de leche, custard, quince or apple jam, among other fillings. The most popular one is the medialuna (inspired by the French croissant). Another peculiarity is the sndwich de miga, which are sandwiches made from thin layers of English bread (without the crust) and flled with ham and cheese. The more elaborate ones include cured ham, tomatoes, olives, hard boiled eggs, tuna, lettuce, and bell peppers, among others ingredients. They are a traditional snack at social meetings and parties. Desserts and sweet treats usually include dulce de leche, which is made with milk and sugar. Dulce de leche is usually eaten alone, or used as a filling in cakes, alfajores, pancakes and Danishes, or as a topping for fan. Whipped cream is also massively popular, and commonly used in desserts and sweet treats. Pies, sponge cakes and puddings are very common products. Italian-style ice- cream has also enjoyed a huge development in this area, with local variations that kept alive the artisan spirit of their production and placed them among the best in the world in international competitions. Buenos Aires PROVINCE AND CAPITAL CITY Palacio Duhau, Buenos Aires (56) City Cafe, Buenos Aires (57) ::42:: ::43:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Iguaz Falls (61) The guaran infuence This region has been greatly influenced by the guaran culture, especially in the bordering provinces. This is why this area currently shares some regional dishes with Paraguay. The Litoral is an area covered with lush vegetation that colors landscapes green, with blue rivers that spread like arms and red- colored soil. Vegetation is abundant in every sense of the word, and amidst such exuberance, food makes the experience worthwhile in the different towns. The geography in this area is breathtaking, from the magnifcent Iguaz Falls and other smaller falls, to the heavy jungle, the calm beaches on the river coast, the lagoons of fresh water, the reserves and national parks that shelter a unique biodiversity, and the valleys and productive plains. Due to the great river affuence, fshing is one of the backbones of its economy, and this refects in the eating habits of the local population. People can enjoy an enormous variety of fsh, prepared in various, delicious ways. Among the most well-known, we can mention the silver horsehead, the surubim catfsh, the pac, the shad, the pat and the catfsh. These are usually grilled, baked or battered and accompanied with a fne Argentine wine. In Misiones and Formosa, locro is prepared with beef, corn, pumpkin, and manioc. The mbey, a guaran deep-fried pastry made with manioc starch, is served with milk, salt and cheese. The chip is also elaborated using these ingredients, and eggs. It goes well with tea and coffee, or the famous beverage called terer (cold water mate). Sopa paraguaya (literally Paraguayan soup) is another local delicacy which, despite its name, is a type of bread made with white corn four, cheese, onions and spices. Among the sweet products, papaya in syrup is a traditional dessert in Corrientes. Litoral MISIONES CORRIENTES CHACO FORMOSA SANTA FE ENTRE RIOS In this area is where the yerba mate route begins. Among the few yerba mate facilities in the world, the ones in Argentina are located in the provinces of Corrientes and Misiones. The other plantations are located in Paraguay and in the south of Brazil. Some of them are open for guided visits and invite tourists to closely explore the productive aspects of the most popular beverage among Argentinians: mate. The main yerba mate production areas are located in Gobernador Ingeniero Valentn Virasoro (Corrientes), El Dorado, Leandro N. Alem, Ober and Apstoles (Misiones). Apstoles hosts the Fiesta Nacional de la Yerba Mate (yerba mate themed festival), where people pay tribute to these plantations, and it is an ideal time for tourists to get to know the regional communities and their customs. Another beverage that can be enjoyed during this thrilling journey is the famous terer, especially when served cold with citrus fruit juice instead of water, a truly delicious and refreshing beverage to cool down during long visits. Misiones (59) Sunset, Misiones (60) ::44:: ::45:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm El Olivotour (The Olive Grove Tour) In addition to vine, several Argentine provinces enjoy good weather and soil for growing olive trees. Many oil-producing facilities can be found in Catamarca, La Rioja, Mendoza and San Juan, at the foot of the Andes. Here, visitors can take guided tours and learn about the oil production process. In some cases, in Maip, and especially in San Rafael, people can harvest olives themselves and make their own olive oil through a program known as Olivotour. The experience also includes other activities such as olive therapy, a relaxing, spa-like treatment that uses the natural properties of olives that are benefcial for our body. Masters of Food & Wine This event hadapromisingstart, andbecameoneof themost anticipated gourmet events of the year. This international festival lasts several days and it is attended by prestigious local and international chefs and sommeliers that cook delicious dishes and pair them with the best Argentine wines. Between the grape harvesting months and the fall, the Hyatt Hotel organizes this gourmet event, which combines dinners, luncheons, gala events, master cooking classes and directed wine tastings, privatetango lessons andpolo activities, among other options that take place in natural settings of Mendoza and Buenos Aires. Museos del Mate (Mate Museums) Many places throughout the country offer spaces for tourists to pay tribute to this representative Argentine custom: drinking mate. Tigre, in the province of Buenos Aires, features a museum with a collection of more than 3 thousand pieces, which include the smallest mate vessels in the world, yerba mate containers used in old wagons, crystal mate vessels and bombillas (the straw used for drinking mate). Also the frst book published in 1936 on this topic, and even old music instruments made with gourd. It is worth mentioning that the frst known thermos fask in the world can be found there. Olive Tour, Mendoza (67) Chefs (65) Gastronomy (66) Fiesta Nacional del Chivito (National Goat Festival) Thiscelebration, heldinJanuaryeachyear inMalarge, insouthMendoza, should appear in the Guinness books of records due to its singularity. This event celebrates goat meat, a delicacy in this province. During the celebration, which lasts several days, more than 1,000 goats are roasted in a huge grill, which is something worth seeing. In addition to the delicious meal, there are attractive gaucho skill and other folk shows. These include a Cueca (traditional dance) competition, and the election of a beauty queen, an activity that is part of every festival in the country. Fiesta Nacional de la Cereza (National Cherry Festival) ThetownofLosAntiguos, atthefootoftheAndesintheprovinceof Santa Cruz, is an important cherry producing center. The town name pays homage to its tehuelche (native people) predecessors. This Patagonian fruit is really exquisite and very valued in different markets, and it can be enjoyed as part of this truly national celebration, held in the cherry capital of the country. Fiesta Nacional del Ternero (National Veal Festival) and Da de la Yerra (cattle branding with hot iron) Ayacucho, in the province of Buenos Aires, 300 km(186 mi) away from the Capital City, hosts another important festival dedicated to veal, a criollo delicacy. This appealing celebration starts with the Estado de Yerra (where they brand cattle with a hot iron tool), a typical show of the Pampean area. This marks the beginning of the event and has inspired many artists to write stories, poems and songs, and even paint pictures. This celebration also features many cultural activities, such as music shows in the streets, a national mural painting contest (gaucho themed), and a payada (songs improvised with a guitar) competitions. There also are calf auctions and a beauty pageant to choose the queen of the festival. Highlights to schedule Al asador Goat, Mendoza (62) Cherries, Santa Cruz (63) Folklore Musicians (64) ::46:: ::47:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm An oddity in Pig Pig, to the south of the province of Buenos Aires, follows a tradition, received from the French immigrants, that is becoming increasingly strong. Each year, the members of the Cofrada Mundial de los Caballeros de la Omelette Gigante (World Fraternity of Knights of the Giant Omelet) organize a huge celebration and prepare a giant omelet up to 4 meters (13 feet) in diameter. More than 15,000 eggs, 30 liters (8 gallons) of oil, 100 kilos (220 pounds) of ham and many spices are used to prepare this feast, which represents an attraction for the entire town and the visiting tourists. Only four countries outside France have the approval to host this type of event, and Argentina is one of them. Artisan beers from the South Patagonia is a land of wines, but it is also home to many other popular beverages, such as beer, which, in many cases, is produced following artisan techniques. Every year in February, the city of El Bolsn, at the foot of the Andes, receives thousands of tourists to celebrate the Fiesta Nacional del Lpulo (National Hop Festival). Hop is a fower used to scent and give beer a bitter favor. During the festival, beer lovers can taste a wide variety of beer options, raging from the most traditional ones to beers favored with regional berries. Moreover, visitors can taste other regional products, and enjoy live shows and sports activities. Delicious salami Oncativo, 70 km (43 mi) away from the capital city of Crdoba, invites tourists to taste the most delicious handmade salami in Argentina. More than 1,500 guests get together in the neighborhood sports club and organize a celebration where they enjoy over 1,300 kg (2,866 lbs) of salami. The idea was born in 1975, when a few local producers got together at a folk club in order to taste each others product and determine which one had the best salami of all. Eventually, this event became the Fiesta Nacional del Salame Casero (National Homemade Salami Festival), and Oncativo became the Argentine capital of salami. Salami and Cheese (70) Other mate museums are located in Santa Rosa, capital city of La Pampa and in Apstoles, Misiones. In the town center of this city is the Casa del Mate and the Museo Histrico Juan Szychowski in the yerba mate producing facility Amanda, where visitors can learn about this Polish immigrant, who was one of the frst people to grow and process yerba mate. The Francisco Scutell Collection, called Mates Argentinos y del Mundo, is another attraction in Paran, Entre Ros. It exhibits Mr. Francisco Scutells private collection, shares secrets on this beverage and offers lectures on mate for all visitors. Patio del Mate in Gualeguaych, Entre Ros, is one of the main places in the country where mate vessels are made and exhibited. Mates (68) Mates (69) ::48:: ::49:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm The national stew Ingredients: 500 g (18 oz) of white corn, 500 g (18 ounces) of beans, 500 g (18 oz) of chickpeas, 500 g (18 oz) of pork meat and skin, 3 ordinary chorizos (not chorizo colorado because it is too spicy), 500 g (18 oz) of chopped beef, 500 g (18 ounces) of tripe, pieces of bacon (to taste), 750 g (26 oz) of pumpkin, 500 g (18 oz) of potatoes, 500 g (18 oz) of sweet potatoes. Instructions: Let the corn, beans and chickpeas soak overnight in plenty of water. The next day, use that same water to boil the already cut chorizo and bacon, the diced beef, the pork meat and skin, and the tripe. Add the vegetables. Do not add salt from the beginning; add it only if needed once the dish is ready. Let everything simmer for 3 or 4 hours until the preparation thickens, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon so that it does not stick to the pot and so that the pumpkin crumbles. Serve preferably in earthenware dishes, in order to maintain heat. Locro This iconic and high energy Argentine dish is served especially during national holidays and during the winter. The origin of this stew can be traced to pre-Hispanic and Andean cultures. They used to prepare it with basic ingredients like pumpkin, corn, beans, potatoes, onions and different spices, as well as beef, pork or entrails. This dish is a tradition throughout the north of Argentina, but today it is also consumed in other areas. The recipe may change according to local uses and customs, or to the ingredients available at the time it is prepared. It is cooked on low heat, which enhances the favors, makes the ingredients tender and turns the sauce into a dense cream. Locro (72) Flowering Cactus, Salta (73) Gastronomy (74) Argentine classics Asado The quality of Argentine beef is well known around the world, and the asado is an iconic dish, longed for by tourists and worshiped by locals. Like tango, it is a pure expression of the Argentine spirit. Overall, the asado is the perfect combination of meat and offal (internal organs of cows) charcoal-grilled, and prepared in different ways. Beef (with or without bone) is the main ingredient, but it can be complemented with chicken or pork, among other meats. Asado is much more than just a typical dish. It is an Argentine ritual that represents a communion between friends or family. The asador (the person in charge of preparing the asado) is the creator of a masterpiece; someone who cooks the asado to perfection (something that usually takes several hours.) It is common to share a picada with an aperitif while the asador, master of the embers and the fire, oversees the perfection of the cooking process. Picadas involve little pieces of various types of cheese, cold cuts or sausages, olives, potato chips, and other ingredients the host may add. Hearing the expression Te invito a comer un asadito (Come over for some asado) is common among Argentinians, and it is a symbol of fraternity and affection. In addition to tasting a homemade asado, you can have great asados at traditional Argentine steak houses or in ranches, made by gauchos and rural asadores. In the countryside, another technique used for grilling meat is called asado al asador, where meat is inserted into an iron cross and left by the fre, where it cooks slowly, keeping all its juices sealed inside. In both cases, the result is a juicy and tender asado. But note that Argentinians tend to eat meat more thoroughly cooked than people do in other countries. Tips for preparing a good asadoo Having the necessary utensils: knife, fork, shovel, an iron stick used to push the embers, and a cutting board to cut the meat. Having a very clean grill, free from residues from previous asados. Avoid using kerosene or other fammable liquids. Adding crate wood to the charcoal, since it is a good ally for the fre. Keeping the embers in good conditions (in order to avoid poisoning) and hot at one end of the grill in order to use them as needed when meat is placed on the grill. Distributing the heat of the embers according to the type of meat being cooked. Salting the meat with coarse salt before placing it on the grill. Keeping a moderate and constant heat and the grill at a safe distance from the embers in order to avoid burning the meat. Having a suitable container handy to bring the meat to the table. Source: IPCVA Asado en la Provincia de Buenos Aires (71) ::50:: ::51:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm How to cure the gourd Curing the mate vessel is conditioning the vessel (when it is new, made of gourd or wood) in order to avoid unpleasant taste and to prevent mold (other mate vessels can simply be washed and do not need to undergo this process). The process is really simple: wash the vessel thoroughly and fll it with used yerba andwarmwater. It should be left to sit for one day (as if it where soaking). Repeat the procedure the following day. There are other techniques and tricks for curing. How to prepare good Mate following a few simples steps Put the yerba mate inside the chosen vessel (it should be about 80% full). Cover the hole with your hand, put it upside down and shake it so that the yerba gets mixed together (the fne and coarse particles should get mixed) and to eliminate the powder, in order to prevent the straw from getting clogged. The yerba should be arranged in an angled mound, at a 45 angle, and there should be a cavity toward one side. Add very little warm water (it should not be too hot, to avoid burning the yerba from the beginning) to the yerba and slowly repeat the process with slightly hotter water, trying to get the yerba wet little by little, and always on the same side. Once the yerba has absorbed the water, stick the straw (bombilla) on the wet side and verify it is frm and slanted toward the vessel wall. Never move the straw! Pour a small amount of hot water (this is called cebar). Ideally, a mate should allow2 or 3 sips per person. Water should be hot but never boiling(between70C- 80C/ 158F 176F shouldbefne). Akettle or fask canbe usedtopour the water. The latter is better in order to keep the water temperature constant. Note: the person to drink the frst mate in a circle is the cebador (brewer) andthenhe or she continues offeringmates tothe people inthecirclewithout ever changingtheorder (onemateper person). The mate returns to the brewer, who should always be the same person. Mate Brewer (78) Yerba Mate Leaf (79) Mate Mate is so iconic that it should be declared the national beverage. Drinking mate is a custom shared with other neighboring countries (Paraguay, Uruguay, and the south of Brazil), and it has a special and unique meaning for Argentinians: socializing and sharing. The word mate comes from the quichua word mati, which is a gourd used as a vessel to hold yerba mate; but in addition to giving its name to the vessel, it is also the name of the infusion (made with yerba mate and hot water). Drinking mate (or brewing it) is an everyday activity for Argentinians, and, at any time of the day, mate is an irreplaceable companion and the perfect excuse to chat with friends and family. Mate can be drunk bitter or sweet (with sugar or, in some cases, sweetener), depending on personal preference. Water should be steaming hot but not boiling. It can also be brewed with cold water or citrus fruit juice (called terer), making it an ideal beverage on hot summer days. The vessel can be made of gourd, wood, glass, porcelain, cow horn, aluminum, plastic, nickel silver and silver and many other materials; and the straw (bombilla), usually metallic or made out of cane, through which the liquid is sipped, is placed inside the vessel. Mate is prepared with ground leaves (dried, crushed and aged) of yerba mate, a local plant or tree from the sub-tropical rainforests located in only one area in South America. It has great nutritional properties and its favor ranges from very soft to more intense. Moreover, yerba can be processed with or without stems, and favored with orange, lemon and natural herbs. You can drink mate by yourself, but also with other people. It represents unity among people. It is common to be offered mate, even by people you might not know. It is passed around until it returns to the brewer (cebador), after everyone has had some. Mate is attributed many nutritional properties as it has minerals and vitamins. It is also said to have healing properties as, in the past, it was used as medicine. As a natural beverage it provides nutrients, like antioxidants, and reduces bad cholesterol. Yerba mate is also used as an ingredient in various recipes (cake, fan, ice-cream and liquor, among others). Mate bags (similar to a tea bag) are also popular and they are used to make mate cocido. Like wine, it is the main ingredient in a new line of cosmetic products (fragrances, creams and shampoos). Tortitas (76) Harvesting Yerba Mate (77) Drinking mate (75) ::52:: ::53:: | GOURMET Beats to your rhythm Dulce de leche Its origin is uncertain, and there are many legendary stories that explain this dessert that drives those with a sweet tooth crazy. Dulce de leche is an undisputable Argentine classic. It can be enjoyed alone, straight from the jar, or used as a flling for alfajores, cakes, chocolates, pancakes or as a thick, creamy topping for fan and other desserts. From children to adults, everybody goes crazy for dulce de leche. It can be bought already made or it can be easily made at home, provided you have some free time. In other Latin countries, it is known under other names, such as manjar or manjar blanco, arequipe or cajeta, among others. Chimichurri Essential ingredient of every asado and requested by every foreigner who visits Argentina, despite its diffcult pronunciation, chimichurri is a true Argentine hot sauce that goes very well with meat, especially roasted meat. Some have a milder favor, others are red hot, but all of them are made with oil and vinegar and ground ingredients (ground red peppers, garlic, black pepper, oregano, and bay leaves, among others). Chimichurri is used to marinate meats the day before preparing certain dishes or to season already cooked meat when serving them. Northern Sweet Treats (81) Spices (82) How to make a homemade dulce de leche Ingredients: 2 l (4 pints) of milk; 1/2 kg (1.1 lb) of sugar, and 1/2 teaspoon of baking soda. Instructions: Add 4 tablespoons of sugar in a pot on low heat. Add the milk, the rest of the sugar and the baking soda. Turn up the heat. Stir continuously, preferably with a wooden spoon, until the milk starts boiling. Lower the heat and simmer. Continue stirring until milk thickens and reaches the desired consistency. Remove from the heat and let it cool down. Recipe for a good chimi Ingredients: oregano, ground red peppers (a fstful), black pepper, 2 bay leaves, 2 cloves of garlic (halved), salt, 1/2 cup of oil, vinegar (regular or wine vinegar). Instructions: Choose a big glass jar (it can be sanitized with alcohol, which should be undiluted so it evaporates completely.) Put all the ingredients into the dry jar (everything should be fnely chopped). Add the cup of oil and the vinegar (half a jar of spices, half a jar of oil and vinegar). Close the jar tightly and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for a month. If onions or raw garlic are added to the mixture, the sauce should be used fresh that same day. Empanadas Empanadas are a classic Argentine delicacy and they can be found all over the country. Although they share similar characteristics, each region, province or family has their own special secret. This is cause of competition and motivation, seeking the best empanadas in Argentina. There are regional contests where the frst place is highly disputed. Empanadas are made with a stretched and folded dough, stuffed with different ingredients which vary according to taste. They can be made with beef, humita (corn), ham and cheese, chicken, and many other ingredients. Nowadays, there are gourmet recipes introducing new favors and increasingly creative empanadas. Empanadas are closed in different ways, and the different types of folded edges (called repulgue) are generally used to tell the favors apart. These delicacies are traditionally eaten with the hands and they go very well with a fne Argentine wine: a red wine with good body or a nice Torronts (especially with the spicy or norteo-style empanadas). Some empanadas are juicy (they are popularly famous, as they are called de piernas abiertas because you have to eat them sitting with your legs open wide in order to avoid staining your clothes). Some are baked, others are deep-fried; and they can be tasty or spicy. Every favor has its own variations (for instance, using minced meat or knife-cut meat, adding hard-boiled eggs or olives, among other very well kept secrets). Empanadas (80) Empanadas criollas Dough Ingredients: 1 kg (2.2 lbs) of wheat four, 1 egg, 1/2 kg (1.1 lb) of veal fat (grasa de pella), brine (combine 1/2 cup of water, 1/2 cup of milk, 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 tablespoon of salt.) Instructions: Placetheflour onatable, formacircleandadd the egg and the warm fat in the center. Mix while slowly pouring the brine, until the dough is soft and elastic. Set the dough aside and leave it in a cool place for an hour. Cut small balls and stretch them until obtaining thin discs of approximately 10 cm (4 in) in diameter. Stufng Ingredients: 3/4 kg (1.6 lbs) of minced or knife-cut beef; 1/2 cup of veal fat; 3/4 kg (1.6 lbs) of fnely chopped white onions; 1 fnely chopped bell pepper; 1/2 cup of meat stock; salt to taste; cumin; pepper; paprika; 1 tablespoon of sugar; 2 chopped hard- boiled eggs; 150 g (5 oz) of chopped green seedless olives; 100 g (3.5 oz) of seedless raisins. Instructions: Melt the fat in a deep frying pan. Add and slightly saut the onions, until they are clear. Add the meat. Cook while stirring so that it mixes together. Add salt, sugar, paprika, cumin and pepper to taste. Add 1/2 cup of meat stock and cook, but not too much. Set aside to cool, and then mix in the raisins, the olives and the hard boiled eggs. Refrigerate the stuffng for at least 12 hours. Final step: Fill each dough disc with a serving of the meat preparation and close tight, making the folded edge or repulgue. Fry briefy in very hot fat. The empanadas should be a light golden brown. They can be sprinkled with sugar. Serve hot. Empanadas can also be baked.
::54:: | GOURMET Fain: Golden brown and thin chickpea four dough. It is often served with pizza (or on top of it). Humitas on Corn Leaves: Paste made with ground corn, chopped onions and salt, and wrapped in boiled corn leaves (chalas). Locro: Stew made with corn, pumpkin and chopped meat (or jerked meat). Beans, bacon, chorizo and intestines can be added to the preparation. Maize Mush (Api): Corn four boiled in water with baking soda. Sugar or salt can be added to the mush. Parrillada: Combination of grilled beef (different cuts) and various kinds of offal (blood sausage, chorizo, chitterlings, sweetbreads, kidneys, among others). It usually includes other types of meat like chicken, goat or pork. Each parrillada is shared between several people. Quesillos: Cheese obtained from curdled milk (without whey). This paste is placed in very hot water and kneaded until it curdles and acquires a fbrous consistency. It is stretched and then hung in order to make it strip fat. Quinoa: Type of Andean cereal of high nutritional value, and rich in protein. Both grains and leaves are edible. Tamales: Dough roll made with corn flour and stuffed with meat, onions, potatoes and chili and wrapped in corn leaves. Mbey: Type of guaran crpe or fried omelet made with manioc four and cheese, similar to the chip. Terer: Beverage (infusion) made with yerba mate and brewed with cold water. CULINARY GLOSSARY Offal: Entrails and internal organs of cows (sweetbreads, kidneys, intestines, chitterlings, etc.) Chanfaina: Dish made with lamb or goat offal and blood, mixed with chili, onions, tomato, and thickened with four. Jerked Meat: Sun dried meat. It can be lamb, goat, beef, or lama meat. It is cut into thin slices and it can be savory or not. Chicha: Low-alcohol beverage obtained from the fermentation of corn grains.
Chimichurri: Hot sauce made with oil, vinegar and several spices. It goes great with different meats. Chip: Small bread buns made with corn or manioc four, and flavored with cheese. They are a tradition from guaran cuisine. Choripn (chori): Chorizo sandwich that can be eaten alone (as a quick bite sold by street vendors), or as the ideal appetizer for an asado.
Chuo: Potato that has been dehydrated through freezing and heat exposure. Cuaresmillo: Small and tasty peach variety. It ripens for lent (cuaresma in Spanish), thus its name. Curanto: Traditional Patagonian cooking method where meat, vegetables or fish are cooked slowly in a hole in the ground with red-hot stones. Empanadillas: Small empanadas with a sweet flling and coated with a mixture of sugar and egg whites. (83) WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE TRAVELING MAIN ROUTES: Route 40 stretches across the country from north to south, parallel to the Andes Mountain Range. Route 3 starts in Buenos Aires and stretches along the Atlantic coast down to Ushuaia. Information about the condition of routes: Non-fared roads: Direccin Nacional de Vialidad (011) 4343-8544. For toll roads: rgano de Control de Concesiones Viales 0800-333-0073. COMMUNICATIONS COUNTRY CODE: +54 COMMUNICATIONS I Phone centers are very common throughout the country (places with phone services and, generally, Internet). Public phones are used with coins and cards bought at the phone centers. Internet is a widely used service in bars and phone centers. IMPORTANT SHOPPING TIPS BUSINESS HOURS: Banks and exchange agencies: Monday thru Friday from 10 AM to 3 PM. Business offces: Generally from 9 AM to 12 PM and from 2 PM to 7 PM. Shops: 9-9:30 AM to 7:30-8:30 PM. In the rest of the country shops may close at noon. Shopping malls open from 10 AM to 9 PM. VAT REFUND I At the international airport, it is possible to get a VAT refund if you have bought national products for more than $70 (as stated in the invoice) at the shops included within the Global Refund system. CONTACTS National Department of Tourism Tourist Information Center: Av. Santa Fe 883 (C1059ABC) Buenos Aires Ph.: +5411 - 43122232 E-mail: info@turismo.gov.ar www.turismo.gov.ar National Institute of Tourism Promotion Paraguay 866 4 piso (C1057AAL) Buenos Aires Ph.: +5411 - 48501400 E-mail: info@argentina.travel www.argentina.travel /gourmet YouTube: www.youtube.com/visitarg Facebook: www.facebook.com/visitarg Twitter: www.twitter.com/visitarg www.foursquare.com/visitarg AREA I Argentina has an area of almost 3.8 million square km (1.07 million square miles). The country is about 3800 kilometers (2361 miles) long and stretches from 22 to 55 south latitude. CAPITAL I City of Buenos Aires. BOUNDARIES I Argentina limits with: Chile, Bolivia, Paraguay, Brazil, and Uruguay. (See map) POLITICAL DIVISION I Argentina is organized in 23 provinces and the Autonomous City of Buenos Aires. GOVERNMENT I Representative, Republican and Federal, governed by a National Constitution sanctioned in 1853 and amended in 1860, 1898, 1957, and 1994. OFFICIAL LANGUAGE I Spanish. Other languages spoken are English, Portuguese, Italian, and French. RELIGION I Roman Catholic Apostolic, although there is freedom of worship. TIME ZONE I GMT (Greenwich Meridian) -3 hs. ENERGY I AC, 220/240 volts at 50 cycles. POPULATION I 40,091,359 inhabitants. According to estimated data from the 2010 census, 95% of the people are Caucasian, mostly of Spanish and Italian descent, 4.5% are of mixed race, and 0.5% are pure native people. CURRENCY AND MEANS OF PAYMENT I The offcial currency is the Argentine peso. The American dollar and the Euro are accepted. Tourists can exchange money in banks and exchange agencies. The most widely used credit cards are American Express, Diners, Mastercard and Visa. Credit cards and traveler checks are not widely accepted outside the cities and tourist centers. People can withdraw cash (in Pesos) from any ATM countrywide. ENTRANCE REQUIREMENTS I Valid passport, with or without thevisa, dependingonthecase. Refer totheembassy or consulate. CLIMATE I Argentina has a great variety of climates. In general, the climate is moderate. To the north, it becomes subtropical and, to the south, subpolar. The summer is very agreeable in the Patagonia and the Meridional Andes. In winter, the region is ideal for practicing snow sports. Winter is the best season to visit the north and litoral regions. Buenos Ai res and the rest of the country are magnificent in the fall and spring. GETTING AROUND BY AIR International fights to Argentina arrive at the Ezeiza Ministro Pistarini International Airport, 37 km (23 mi) away from the city of Buenos Aires. Domestic fights depart from the Jorge Newbery Airport, 15 minutes away from downtown Buenos Aires. BY LAND BUS I There are many long-distance buses with special services. The central bus station of Buenos Aires is located in the Retiro neighborhood. ROUTES TYPES OF ROUTE: There are fare-free routes and toll routes. CHARACTERISTICS: There are mostly asphalted two-way roads. In the interior of the country, there are gravel roads and paths, generally in good conditions. Photograph Credits Cover: (Center) National Institute of Tourism Promotion, (from left to right) National Institute of Tourism Promotion; Federico Garca; National Institute of Tourism Promotion. Index Photo: Familia Zuccardi Winery (1.) Inside Photos: Masters of Food & Wine Argentina (2,25,27,43,44,49,50,56,65,66), OFournier Winery (2,23), Chaarmuyo Winery (4,7), Trapiche Winery (5,37), Institute of Tourism Promotion (6), National Department of Tourism (8,13,16,63,69,70), Carina Valicati (9,21,60,64,77,78,79,81), Goyenechea Winery (10), Department of Tourism of Salta (12,28,29,46,47,72,74,80), Crdoba Tourism Agency (14,15,18,53,54,83), Familia Schroeder Winery (17,20), Virginia Alimonda (18), Valle Perdido Winery (19), Lurton Winery (22,23), Familia Zuccardi Winery (24,32,40), Argentine Wineries - Gustavo Sabes (26), Department of Tourism of Mendoza (31), Inprotur - Istockphotos (34,58), Park Hyatt Mendoza (35), Mequetse-posat (36,73), Antucura Winery (38,39), NQN Winery (41), Salentein Winery (42), Secretariat of Tourism of Tucumn (45,82), Secretariat of Tourism of Jujuy (48), Emprotur Bariloche (51), Llao LLao Hotel & Resort (52), Yancanello Federico Garcia (55,67), Vanda Biffani - Nikon 2010 (57), Ente Iguaz Turismo (59), Nikon 2010 (61), Inprotur Dakar (62), Eliceo Miciu (68), Secretariat of Tourism of Buenos Aires (70), Kauak (75,76).