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Ryan James
Freelance Writer
aking to the Waters in Budapest
This is an article that was written request of Purple Roofs, a gay accommodation company in the US. The basic
information remains the same, but rates and hours should be investigated further with each thermal individually.
Taking to the Waters in Budapest
When the city of Budapest is mentioned one of the first things that people associate with it is the fact that it is famous
for the thermal baths. The thermals have an extensive history that reaches the Roman era. However, it was the Turks
who started building them in 1565 in order to have a place to bath in case of a siege on the city. Budapest, as well as
many other parts of Hungary, sits upon innumerable hot springs providing easy access to acquiring the mineral rich
waters for bathing. Most Europeans are ardent believers in the varying medicinal powers of thermal bathing. It is not
uncommon for each of the thermals to be a medical clinic which treats disorders of the skin, muscular system, and
bone ailments. Each thermal has its own unique mineral content, which is prescribed for different treatments. Even if
you are not in need of the health benefits, time spent in thermal baths will boost your spirits.
Here is a cautionary note; the hours and prices change frequently. In fact, the changes occur so often those in charge
generally do not maintain the official Budapest thermal website updated; it is not uncommon for it to be out-of-date
by months or longer. However, this is not atypical for businesses here. That said, the rules of segregation or not for the
Kirly or Rudas may suddenly change. You can try the website www.spasbudapest.com, but the most reliable way of
knowing is actually to stop by the thermal you are interested in and checking there. Even the tourism office has been
known to provide outdated information. As of this writing, the website still had events listed for December 2011.
Szchenyi Baths
Address: XIV. llatkerti t 1114 in Vrosliget (City Park). Metro: Szchenyi frd (Yellow line).
This holds the title of being one of the largest spa complexes in Europe. As the first thermal on the Pest side of the city,
it was first built as a temporary structure in 1813, but later became a permanent establishment in 1913. In 1927, it was
expanded to its current size. Located in Vrosliget (City Park), the Szchenyi Baths are the most popular with locals and
tourists. This is one of the few nicer thermals that are mixed sexes. Once inside the complex, you will not believe the
enormity as the outside view is deceptive. The 16 different pools, each with different water temperatures has something
for everyone. For those with a playful spirit, one is a whirlpool that will spin you around. As crowded as this thermal
can get with families and tourists who come to enjoy the palatial unisex outdoor swimming pool every month of the
year, it never feels overcrowded. Turkish-style thermal baths are segregated and are located inside off to the sides of the
outdoor pools.
In warm weather, there is segregated nude sunbathing on the roof. When you see the ubiquitous photo of older men
playing chess on floating chess boards in a pool of water, you can be assured it was taken at this bath. If you like the
water, you will certainly want to spend the day here.
Kirly Baths
II. F! u. 84. Metro: Batthyny tr (Red line).

This is thermal has the honor of being one of the oldest baths in Hungary. The Kirlys construction was started by
Arslan, Turkish Pasha of Buda in 1565, but was completed by his successor. They built this bath so they could bathe
easily and be ready for battle. Legends claim the Turks needed to make bathing fun to get the Hungarians to bathe. The
Kirly Baths are still one of Budapests most famous Turkish architectural tributes. Bathing under the octagonal domed
roof with sunlight filtering through small round windows in the ceiling gives the water a distinctive glow. In late
afternoons in winter you can look at the night sky watching the stars hanging in the distance. In addition to the thermal
baths, there are sauna and steam room facilities, but no swimming pools.
At one time, this was the thermal of choice for gay men. It was notorious for resembling a Roman orgy. However, after
a TV news reporter secretly filmed the goings on and broadcast it, things changed significantly. Now, it is integrated
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women and men every day, so bathing suits are required at all times and you have to keep your hands to yourself. You
can enter up to one hour before closing, but it is not worth the effort since everyone is required to head to the lockers "
hour before closing time.
Rudas Baths
I. Dbrentei tr 9. No. 7 Bus

Near the Erzsbet Bridge, on the Buda side of the city, this is the second oldest of the classic Turkish baths. These baths
are for men only every day except Tuesday during the day or Friday night, and mixed men and women on weekends.
Truly one of the most authentically beautiful, especially after an extensive renovation, the centerpiece is an octagonal
pool under a 10m (33-ft) domed roof with some of the small window holes in the cupola filled with stained glass.
Others are open to the sky; diffused light stream through. There are four corner pools of varying degrees of
temperature. Older men predominantly comprise the early morning crowd.
The services here are the same as at Kirly: thermal baths of varying degrees, a sauna, and a steam bath, but in much
more glorious surroundings. This sauna has been refurbished. Any sexual activity is strongly frowned upon by the
locals as well as the attendants.
Gellrt Baths
XI. Kelenhegyi t 4. Trams 47 or 49 Szent Gellrt tr.

Gellrt Baths are located in Budas Hotel Gellrt, the oldest Hungarian secessionist-style spa and hotel. Be aware that
although the thermal and the hotel share the building, the thermal area is owned by the Budapest City Spa Authority.
The entire thermal area, both mens and womens sections, have been remodeled to their near-original glory; in the
mens area they used authentic Zsolnay porcelain tiles, while the womens side has replicas. The only integrated areas
are the swimming pools, one inside and one outside, which is included in the cost of entry (the outdoor pool is only
open in summer).
This is the most expensive thermal in the city; many leave this thermal stating it is overrated and not worth the cost. An
employee shared that Hungarians find it too expensive, so those who frequent it are foreigners or hotel guests who get
free entry.

A common complaint is the staffs boorish attitude toward guests. If you still feel a need to go, the bath entrance is
outside through the right side of the hotel. Inside the lobby, the details are lovely, especially the stained-glass windows;
photos are not allowed unless you are on a tour. The unisex indoor pool has marble columns, majolica tiles, and stone
lion heads spouting water. The summer outdoor pool has the attraction when 10 minutes of every hour on the hour, the
artificial wave machine churns out ocean type waves. Prices include a cabin. At the cashiers desk, there is an extensive
list of services in English. The last entrance is an hour before closing.
An Outdoor Pool Complex
Palatinus Strand XIII. Margit-sziget. Tram: 4 or 6 to Margit-sziget and then walk to the pool.

On the lovely Margaret Island is Budapests best located strand (literally beach, but in reality a water park). Sadly,
this is a summer only complex, but if you are lucky enough to be here then, this complex is immense and a terrific way
to beat the summer heat. Thermal springs on Margaret Island feed the three thermal pools, an extra-large swimming
pool, and the smaller artificial wave pool. There is a water slide, a grassy area for picnicking, and segregated nude-
sunbathing decks on the building roof. Rumor has it that the mens side can get rather festive. If you tire of water
sports, other facilities include Ping-Pong tables, pool tables, trampolines, and dozens of snack bars. Rates include
either a locker or a cabin. Children 13 and under are discounted; children 5 and under are free.
BudaBaB Bed and Breakfast is situated in the historic Jewish district of the downtown part of the city. It is within
2 blocks of the Red metro line, 2 tram lines, and 5 bus lines. For those who enjoy walking, many of the attractions are
within 15 minutes. Although Budapest does not have a designated gay district, one of the oldest gay bars is 2 blocks
around the corner.
BudaBaB is owned and operated by an American gay couple. Although small, only two rooms, it is the perfect size for
giving the utmost personal care for guests needs. Having lived here for over 11 years, Ryan and Ron are city experts.
During the summer, BudaBaB offers the Feri Place, a self-catering apartment on the 4 or 6 tram line and one block
from Sauna 69.
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