The best of gay Budapest

Sometimes, Budapest really does feel like two cities. The Danube River cleaves the city in two, with
tranquil Buda on one side, bustling Pest on the other. Cosmopolitan bars and restaurants mask the
troubled, murderous Budapest of old. And when the winter weather bites, the sunny, summer buzz
gives way to fairy lights twinkling in the snow, as the population retreats into the worlds finest array of
thermal baths.
When night falls on this former communist city, gay Budapests wild, underground scene comes alive.
It really is worth scratching the surface of this eastern-European jewel and with Budapest Pride just
around the corner, nows the time to book your trip.
My most striking memory from Budapest is from the winter time.
Ordinarily when you hear snow and ice crunching underfoot, youre wearing shoes. Not that day.
Sporting nothing but swimming trunks, I was trying my best to look dignified as I ran across a frozen
courtyard. As the cold air slapped my bare skin, I held my breath, resisting the urge to shriek. Seconds
later I plunged into Szchenyis warm waters with all the grace of a sack of potatoes and let out a long,
satisfied aaaaahhhhhhhh
Nestled within Budapests main leafy park, Szchenyi Baths are pure heaven, boasting 12 thermal
pools, some inside, others outside, with temperatures ranging from 26 to 38C. While Im not sure of
the accuracy of the claims that the waters are healing, I can vouch for their relaxation powers. No
matter what time of year you go, these open air baths are simply divine. In the colder months, the signs
warning you to limit your swim to 20 minutes seem totally redundant. Of course, in the blazing heat of
summer, you can always retreat to the indoor pools or to the massage rooms if the heat becomes too
much.
Get wet
While there are plenty of things to do in Budapest, its worth the trip for the thermal baths alone.
Budapest has more thermal and medicinal water springs than any other capital city in the world. There
are 118 springs in Budapest, providing over 70 million litres of thermal water a day, and each bath
house is a really different experience.
Gellrt Baths, on the bank of the Danube River, are part of a sumptuous hotel complex and are akin to
swimming inside a cathedral. They claim to have built the worlds first wave pool in 1927, which is only
open in the warmer months.
Rudas Baths, just down the road, date back to the 16th century and feature an octagonal pool beneath a
10 metre wide dome supported by eight pillars. Occasional beams of sunlight pierce the dark, humid
space through coloured glass above. On men-only days, the place is electric. Bathers go naked, apart
from a small white apron worn to protect ones modesty. Prepare for smouldering eye contact.
Best of gay Budapest
This year Budapests Pride Parade is on Saturday, July 6. Commencing at City Park, the
parade begins in the afternoon with a picnic, stage performances, live music and speeches before
making its way through the city, along Andrssy t, the citys Champs-lyses, and through Heroes
Square.
Budapest Pride has met with its fair share of resistance in the past, including violent clashes with far
right hooligans in 2008 and threats in more recent years. Last year the parade went ahead peacefully
under the protection of riot police. Parade organisers have called for change from politicians to end the
climate of homophobia that still exists in some parts of the region.
Despite this backdrop, and Budapests relatively small population of about 1.74 million, it still has quite
an active gay nightlife. All those years spent behind the iron curtain mean homosexuality is more
tolerated than celebrated, and venues feel hidden and private, although some may regard this as a good
thing.
For the men, Action Bar is a must. Located below street level in a quiet residential area, its only visual
marker to passers-by is a large letter A emblazoned on the front door. Try a shot of Unicum,
Hungarys national drink. Expect generous lashings of sleaze and strip shows bordering on comical.
Similarly, CoXx mens bar is another well-hidden, raunchy little offering. The name pretty much says
it all.
For something a little more inclusive and civilised, start the night at Why Not Caf. Its cheap,
subdued, the staff are cute and friendly, and the views towards Gellrt Hill are magical. Then, head to
Szp utca, Budapests gay street for a drink at the quirkily named, camp bar Funny Carrot or its
neighbour Habrol Pub.
Feeling hungary?
When your rumbling stomach finally lures you from the baths, you must try Menza. In Hungarian, the
restaurants name means dreary school canteen, but one look at the well-heeled patrons, the modern,
varied menu and the inviting interior design and youll realise its anything but. It feels like fine dining,
but without the price tag a main costs around $11 and a bottle of Hungarian champagne is less than
$16 try finding prices like that in an Australian high end restaurant!
Get high
A walk to the citadel atop of Gellrt Hill is the perfect way to get your bearings and to take in the
breathtaking views across Budapest. Here youll see how the two halves of one of Europes oldest cities
come together Buda on the west bank of the Danube, and Pest on the east. Marvel at the beauty of the
colossal Parliament building the third largest in the world.
Where to stay?
Budapest has a wide range of accommodation, for those on a super tight budget theres the easyHotel
at Oktogon like its airline cousin, its decidedly no-frills, but its in a bustling location at least. At the
top end of the spectrum is the Four Seasons Gresham Palace, sumptuously renovated in 2004 and
boasting 179 rooms, including 19 suites, some of the best views in Budapest, an indoor lap pool, spa,
fitness facilities and all the gismos and trimmings you could ask for.
For those seeking something in the middle, the boutique hotel Gerlczy Rooms De Lux is a cosy,
charming choice. Located in a quiet corner of the historical downtown neighbourhood, this newly
renovated hotel is decorated in Parisian boho-chic style, with a blend of Art Deco and modern features.
It has friendly, English speaking staff, a manageable 15 rooms with free wi-fi throughout and a busy on-
site restaurant, complete with chirping birds each morning to help you wake up as you eat your -la-
carte breakfast. On sunny days, you can enjoy the street-facing courtyard too.
The interior has all the finishing touches youd expect dark timber floors, thick velvet curtains, a
sweeping spiral staircase, but bright splashes of paint give the dcor a modern lift. Rooms have
clawfoot bathtubs, thick cotton sheets, dazzling light fittings, exposed beams and premium toiletries
from Lush. Its across the road from a major supermarket, around the corner from Budapests
shopping district and a two-minute walk from sleek Andrssy t.
Grand architecture, great food, hot water and an even hotter nightlife if youre due for a gay
European getaway, look no further!
Same Same travelled with British Airways and stayed at Gerlczy Rooms De Lux. Rooms
start at !80 per night + breakfast. British Airways fly to Budapest via London visit
Ba.com. For more information about Budapest Pride, visit its website here. Be sure to
only use licensed, pre-booked taxis in Budapest.