EQUIPMENT REQUIRED FOR DRAPING

Modeling is the moulding of fabric around a dress stand or live model in order
to create a garment. It is important for a designer to acquire equipment that is correct
and of a quality for accurate draping. Care should be exercised in selecting the
following equipment required.
SELECTING THE EQUIPMENT
Dress stand:
Dress stands represent both the size and shape of a human torso. They are
available in a wide range of sizes and shapes. standard shape is one that complies to
fixed sizes! e.g. size "#! "$! "%! "&! together with the fashionable proportion to those
sizes. In addition to these standard sizes! specialty stands for designing coats! trousers!
children's wear etc.! can be obtained. (o one dress stand is ideal for all needs! although
ad)ustments can be made to a stand by padding for particular purposes. d)ustable
stands are available but as yet have proved to be unsuccessful because the degree of
ad)ustment available within any part of the stand is not extensive enough.
dress stand! one that is covered in canvas and seamed should be chosen.
These seams are positioned at the centre front! centre bac*! sides! shoulders! nec* and
waistline. There are demarcation lines from shoulder through bust point and waist to
end of torso! and from the shoulder! at the same point! down the bac*! through the waist
to the end of the torso. These lines are used for establishing the position of darts and
seams.
+hatever type of stand is chosen! it is important that it is attached to a firm base
providing stability. It is advisable to have castors on the base to allow for ease of
movement. ,ome stands have a wire cage below the torso which assists in the
modelling of long s*irts. The selection of a good quality stand will allow for many
ad)ustments to be made by adding parts such as arms! for example.
Cutting tabe:
The ideal table is one that is approximately - metres long and ".. metres wide
and of a height which is comfortable to the user. Its surface should not be too hard or
slippery! providing some friction between it and the fabric.
Mirr!r :
It is desirable to have a full/Iength mirror high enough to cover the height of the
stand and any live model used! and low enough to show the feet at the same time. Its
width should be such that both sides of the garment are visible.
Stea" ir!n and b!ard
ny steam iron with a well/defined point is suitable. standard board including
a sleeve board is also required.
S#iss!rs and s$ears
0ood quality cutting equipment is imperative. minimum of two pairs of
shears is required! one for cutting paper! the other for fabric. t least one small pair of
scissors for nic*ing! unpic*ing and cutting ends of threads is needed.
Tra#ing %$ee
Choose one with long spi*es!
Ta&e "easure
dressma*er1s tape measure is required
Rues
Two rules are required! one being a metre stic* and the other a short rule.
Pins
2ine and long ,il* pins for draping.
Tai!r's #$a(
Dar* for mar*ing light coloured fabric and 3ight for mar*ing dar* coloured
fabric.
Pa&er :
4attern cutting paper! which can be either plain white
Pen#is
5ard! at least $5! which provides fineness of line. ,oft pencils are also needed
for mar*ing muslin.
Ta&e
4lain non/stretchable fabric tape of & mm 6"7%8 9 in width.
Ce!ta&e
"$ mm 6"7$ 89 / ": mm 6-7%89 in width.
)adding
Dressma*er1s poly wadding.
$
Modeling is the moulding of material around a dress stand or human body for
the purpose of designing a garment. It allows for wor*ing in three dimensions.
lthough modelling is basically a s*ill! artistic acumen is necessary to use the
technique to full advantage. Draping is sometimes combined with flat pattern ma*ing
when variations on an existing silhouette are produced. The medium for draping is
usually muslin! a plain weave fabric of unfinished cotton. There are three basic types
of muslin;
a9 coarse weave of medium weight used by beginners!
b9 lightweight! finely woven fabric used for soft draping!
c9 heavyweight firmly woven fabric used for draping tailored garments.
PREPARING THE DRESS FORM:
Dress form represents both the size and shape of a human torso. (o! one dress
stand is ideal for all needs! although ad)ustments can be made to a stand by padding for
particular purposes. s seams on the dress from are used as reference points in
draping! they must be properly aligned to result in well/balanced patterns.
/ ,houlder and side seams should be aligned so that they from a continuous line from
nec*line to waistline! passing through the center of the plate screw at the arm plate.
/ The side seam from the waistline tape is placed so that it flows in a smooth!
continuous line around the waistline.
/ Ma*e all corrections on the dress form by sin*ing pins into the form at the corrected
seam intersections.
/ bustline tape is pinned to the form tightly in the middle of the princess panel on
the right side of the dress from to the left across the bustline.
mong padding materials! cotton batting is by far the most satisfactory padding as
it clings to the form with little or no pinning. 4adding is done by slowly unrolling the
cotton batting! handling it lightly to avoid matting it. 4ad! covering the entire form
with a thin layer! letting each sheet extend as far as it will! then smoothing the edges
into those of the ad)oining sheet. <y blending one layer into another! the entire form
can be padded without using any pins. =ven those places! which need large amounts of
padding! can be built up without pins if the material is applied one layer at a time and if
each later is pressed carefully into the one underneath.
-
DRAPING *ASIC *ODICE + FRONT:
Preparation of the fabric
". Measure length for the front bodice along the straight of the grain from the
nec*band to the waist and add . inches. ,nip and tear the fabric this length.
$. Measure the width along the crossgrain from the center front of the dress form
to the side seam at the bust level and add . inches. ,nip and tear the fabric this
width. <loc* and press the fabric.
-. Draw the center front grainline " inch from the torn edge. 4ress. 6the selvage is
to be on the left hand and the torn edge onto right9.
%. Draw a perfect crossgrain line called bust level line in the center of the fabric
panel.
.. Measure on the dress form the distance from the center front to the apex.
Measure and crossmar* the apex this distance on the bust level of the fabric.
&. Measure from the apex to the side seam at the bust level on the dress form.
Measure and crossmar* this side seam distance on the bust level of the fabric.
>. Draw the center of the princess panel line by dividing in half the distance from
the apex to the side seam at the bust level.
DRAPING STEPS:
". 4in the apex mar* on the fabric to the apex position on the dress form. 4in the
center front grain line fold of the fabric to the center front position of dress
form. nchor pins at C2 nec* and C2 waist. n additional pin may be required
at the bust level tape.
$. 4in the center of the princess panel line of the fabric exactly in the center of the
princess panel of the form. nchor pins at the waistline and the cross/grain.
-. Clip the waistline fabric at the center of the princess panel! from the bottom
edge up to the waist seam tape. The excess fabric between the center of the
princess panel and the center front waist position becomes the front waist dart.
Drape and pin this excess fabric in place on the princess seam as the front waist
dart. lso drape the remainder of the front side seam past the side seam and flat
over the dress from armplate. 4in in place.
%. Drape the nec*line by trimming the excess fabric around the nec* area and
clipping at intervals. ,mooth the nec*line! drape and smooth and fabric over the
shoulder seam of the dress form )ust past the princess seam. 4in in place.
%
:. The excess fabric that falls between the nec*line and the shoulder 7armhole
area becomes the amount of the shoulder dart. 2old and pin this excess fabric
on the shoulder princess seam of the dress form. The excess fabric is folded
toward the center front nec*.
Mar* all *ey areas of the dress form to the fabric;
Crossmar* at C2 nec* and at nec*line7shoulder corner. 3ightly mar* remainder of the
nec*line
3ightly mar* shoulder seam. Crossmar* shoulder dart and shoulder ridge corner.
Top at shoulder seam ridge and corssmar* bottom at side seam.
3ightly mar* at side seam.
Crossmar* at C2 waist at side seam waist and both sides of the dart.
TRUEING:
Trueing muslin is drawing the lines that define the exact dimensions of the
finished pattern.
". ?emove muslin from the dress form! and remove all pins except those
indicating the vanishing points of the darts.
$. Chec* that the dart crossmar*s at the waistline are equally distant from the apex
grain line. d)ust! if necessary.
-. True waistline dart and shoulder darts by drawing lines from the vanishing
points to the edges of the muslin.
%. Draw the side seam by connecting crossmar*s at armhole and waistline.
.. To true the nec*line! place the 2rench curve so that the curved edge follows the
nec*line dots and touches the crossmar*s at centerfront and shoulder seam
&. 2old on the darts! and waist and the shoulder seams.
>. dd seam allowances! trim excess fabric
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4reparation of the fabric;
". Measure length for the bac* bodice along the straight of grain from the
nec*band to the waist and add . inches
$. Measure the width along the crossgrain from the center bac* seam to the side
seam at the underarm! and add . inches. Tear and press.
.
-. Draw the center bac* grainline " inch from the torn edge and press under.
Crossmar* the center bac* nec*line position - inches below the tip of the fabric
on the center bac* grainline. Measure down %B inches or one quarter from the
bac* nec*line mar*. Draw a perfect crossgrain line at this position. 6 considered
as the shoulder blade level9.
%. Measure the distance from C< to the armplate in the shoulder blade level of the
dress form. Measure and crossmar* this bac* shoulder distance on the fabric of
the shoulder blade level line.
DRAPING STEPS:
<efore draping the bac* bodice! the front waist must be pinned to the dress
form! ta*ing care that all seam dart lines correspond with those on the form.
". 4in the center bac* grainline fold of the fabric to the center bac* position on the
dress form. lign the nec*line position mar* of the fabric to the center bac*
nec* position on the dress from.
$. 4in and drape the bac* crossgrain line of the fabric to the shoulder blade level
on the dressfrom. 4in the armplate crossmar* B inch away from plate 6at
armhole ridge9. Distribute excess ease along shoulder blade level.
-. Drape in the bac* waist line dart > inches long and "B inches toward the side
seam from the princess. Taper the dart to nothing at the >/inch mar*.
%. Clip the waistline fabric at the center of the princess panel up to the bottom of
the waist seam tape. ,mooth the fabric across the waist tape till the fabric
passes the side seam. 4in at the side seam7waist corner.
.. Drape the bac*side seam by smoothing the fabric past the side seam and flat
over the dress from. 4in in place.
&. Drape and smooth the bac* nec*line around the nec* area clipping at intervals.
>. Drape in the bac* shoulder dart - inches long and B inch wide. @n the princess
seam at the shoulder! measure toward the armhole B inch and crossmar* Taper
the dart to nothing at the - inch crossmar*.
TRUEING:
True all lines! darts as done for front. 4in both front and bac* patterns on the
dress form and chec* for correct fitting.
&
*ASIC S,IRT:
The basic straight s*irt is a straight fitted s*irt with side seams parallel
to the dress from. Two darts are fitted into the waistline seam to shape the hips and
form the waistline. The darts bring in the excess fabric at the waist position.
Pre&arati!n !- t$e dress -!r" . -abri#:
". Measure down > inches from the waistline on the center front of the dress form.
This is the hip level. 4lace measuring tape parallel to the floor at this position.
$. Measure the length 6along the straight of grain9 for the front and bac* s*irt from
$ inches above the waist to the bottom of the dress form. dd % inches. ,nip
and tear the fabric this length.
-. Measure the width 6along the crossgrain9 for the front and nec* s*irt at the hip
level from center of the dress form to the side seam. dd - inches. ,nip and
tear the fabric this width.
%. Draw the center front and center bac* grainlines on the fabric " inch from the
torn edge. 4ress under.
.. Mar* the center front waist position. Measure down $ inches from the tip of the
fabric at the center front fold. 4encil in a waistline mar* at this position. Csing
3/square ruler! draw perfect cross grains at the hip level for the front and nec*
s*irt. @n the s*irt front! measure down > inches from the waistline mar*. @n
the s*irt bac*! measure down D inches from the top of the fabric.
&. 2or the side seam! measure from C2 to side seam 6at the hip level9 and add B
inch for ease and mar* on the fabric. Draw side seam perfectly parallel to the
C2 grainline at this point. ,imilarly determine the side seam for the bac* piece.
>. Draw a second line E inch from the side seam on both the front and bac* s*irts.
This line will be used to help drape in the waistline.
DRAPING THE *ASIC S,IRT: FRONT
". 4in the center front grainline fold of the fabric on the center front position of the
dress form matching the crossgrain of the fabric to the hip level line on the dress
form.
$. ,mooth and pin the crossgrain of the fabric 6evenly distributing the ease9 and
side seam.
>
-. Carefully drape and pin the front E inch line to the side seam7waist corner of
the side form.
%. Drape in two darts at the front waistline. ,mooth the fabric from the center
front to the princess seam. Crossmar* the waistline at the princess seam. Drape
in the first dart on the princess seamline. Measure " F inch fro the first dart and
place a second crossmar*. Clip the waistline and drape in the second dart at this
crossmar*.
DRAPING THE *ASIC S,IRT: *AC,
". Match the bac* side/seam at the hip level to the front side seam of the hip level.
,mooth the cross grain of the fabric across the dress from. 4in the center bac*
grainline fold of the fabric to the center bac* seam of the dress form.
$. Carefully drape and pin the bac* E inch line of the fabric to the side
seam7waist corer of the dress form. slight gap will occur automatically on the
side seam above the hip level.
-. Drape in two darts at the bac* waistline. ,mooth the fabric from the center
bac* to the princess seam. Drape in the first dart 6 one half of the excess fabric9
on the princess seamline. Measure over on the waistline " F inch from the first
dart and place a second dart at this second cross mar*. Mar* all *ey areas.
T?C=I(0;
". Csing the hip curve! true front side seam from hipline to waistline and
connecting pin mar*s.
$. True front waistline darts and bac* waistline darts by locating the center of each
dart at the waistline cross mar*s. Csing the straight end of the 2rench curve!
draw lines from the vanishing point through the waistline crossmar*s
:
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The flared s*irt borrows its silhouette from the fabric of which it is made.
There are three ma)or areas for the placement of the lengthwise grain.
,traight grain at the side seam! at the center front and centered on each panel.
2lares should be decided earlier and they may be evenly distributed or
concentrated at the front! the bac*! or at the sides of the s*irt.
2?@(T ,AI?T;
4reparation of muslin;
". Ta*e length of finished s*irt plus . inches plus desired hem allowance.
+idth will be full width of muslin.
$. Draw a lengthwise grain line;
a9 for s*irt with straight grain at the center front ! draw a
lengthwise grain line approximately - inches from the right
selvage for the center front
-. @n this grain line! indicate the waistline level with a crossmar* .
inches down from the upper torn edge.
%. t hip level! > inches down from the waistline crossmar*! draw a
crosswise grain line.
D?4I(0 2@? 23?=D ,AI?T +IT5 T5= ,T?I05T 0?I(
C=(T=?=D @( =C5 4(=3;
". ,lash the lengthwise grain line above the indicated waistline to
within F inch of the waistline crossmar*.
$. 4in the straight grain to the dress from! centered between the
center front and the side seam at the waistline and the hip level.
-. +or* from the straight grain line toward the side seam and the
center front! using the same method previously described. <oth side
seam and center front seam will be on the bias.
%. Cross mar* at the side seam and waistline. Dot the side seam
from the waistline to the hiplineG place a crossmar* > inches below the
D
waistline and at the edge of the torso if the side seam is on the bias. Dot
the waistline.
.. Crossmar* center front at the edge of the torso if the center front
is on the bias! crossmar* the intersection of the waistline and center
front.
&. True on bias seams! add additional width at the lower torso to
compensate for the lengthwise stretch that occurs in all long bias seams.
The amount of width added will depend on the fabric. 2or muslin! add
B inch True bias seams by connecting the crossmar* at the waistline
with the extended mar* at the lower torso. +hen the bias seam is at the
side seam and the s*irt is very full! it may be necessary to straighten a
dip that can occur in the hip area.
>. Connect the dots at the waistline! squaring off a short area at the
side seam and center front. dd seam allowances and trim away excess
muslin.
<CA ,AI?T;
". Muslin should be prepared as for the front s*irt! but do not draw
lengthwise grain lines before draping.
". 4in the front s*irt over the muslin that has been prepared for the bac*!
matching the crosswise grain at the hipline
$. Trace the side seam of the front s*irt onto the bac* muslin. dd seam
allowance and trim away excess muslin.
-. 4in the side seam of front and bac* s*irt together. ?eplace the s*irt on
the dress from! pinning the front s*irt into position. Chec* the side
seam! ma*ing sure that it hangs straight from the waistline.
%. Drape the bac* s*irt using the same method to achieve flares as with the
front s*irt. 2lares of bac* and front should harmonize.
.. Mar* and true center bac* and waistline of the s*irt. 0ive! seam
allowance and trim excess. ?eplace the s*irt on the dress from and
ad)ust length.
"#
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Drafting the basic sleeve:
". 2old a large piece of paper in half. 6-$ inches long and $% inches wide9
$. ,quare a line up from the fold for the tip of the sleeve. 6$ inches from
the end9
-. =stablish biceps level measure the cap height down from the tip of the
sleeve. ,quare up the line up from the fold at the biceps level.
%. To establish the wrist level measure the underarm length down from the
biceps line. ,quare a line up. 62ig ""a9
.. Divide the underarm length in halfG indicate the elbow level " inch
above the halfway mar* and square a line up from the fold at the elbow
level.
&. Indicate one half of the biceps circumference and elbow circumference
on the appropriate lines. 62ig ""b9
>. Connect the mar*s with the ruler! at biceps and the elbow! extending the
line up to the tip of the sleeve and down to the wrist. 62ig ""C9
To shape the sleeve cap:
". 2old sleeve in half lengthwise and the sleeve cap in half crosswise.
$. Cross mar* on the lengthwise crease E inch above the creased
intersection.
-. Cross mar* at the top of sleeve B inch from the centerfold and connect
the crossmar*s lightly. 62ig ""d9
%. Curve sleeve cap as shown. 62ig ""e9
.. Cut out the sleeve cap and open it.
&. Continue biceps and elbow lines across sleeveG draw line for the center
of sleeve. 62ig ""f9
>. 2old sleeve! blan* side on the inside! by bringing the underarm seams of
the sleeve to meet at the center of the sleeve as illustrated.
:. ,coop out F inch along the lower curve of the front cap 62ig ""g9
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fitted waist bodice with seams rather than darts is *nown as the princess
bodice. This design is suitable for garments for all sorts of occasions. Typically a
""
princess bodice is a close fitting waist design with an unbro*en style line usually
extending from the shoulder or armhole to the waistline. This style line almost always
crosses over the midpoint of the bustline 6apex9 and replaces the need for darts.
princess bodice bac* should always be designed similar to the chosen front princess
bodice.
Preparation of the fabric:
". Measure the length for the front and bac* panels from the nec*band to
the waist and add . inches.
$. 2old the fabric from selvage to selvage and snip and tear the fabric piece
in half lengthwise. Cse one piece for the front panels and the other
piece for the bac* panels.
-. Measure the width for the center front panel from the C2 of the dress
form to the princess seam at the apex and add % inches. Csing one of the
fabric pieces prepared in step $! snip and tear the fabric this width.
Cse the remaining front fabric piece for the side front panel. 62ig "$a9
%. Measure the width for the center bac* panel from the center bac*
princess seam at the shoulder blade level! and add % inches. Csing the
second fabric piece prepared in step $. ,nip and tear the fabric this
width. Cse the remaining bac* fabric piece for the side bac* panel. 62ig.
"$b9
.. Draw grainline and cross grainlines for the centerfront panel " inch from
the torn edge and turn under and at the center of the fabric piece for the
side front panel . 62ig. "$c9
&. Measure and mar* the apex on the crossgrain line from C2! on the
centerfront panel.62ig "$d9
>. Draw the grainline for the center bac* panel " inch from the torn edge.
4ress under. Draw the grainline for the side bac* panel in the center of
the fabric piece. 6fig "$e9
:. Draw the crossgrain line for both bac* panels : inches from the top of
the fabric edge. 62ig "$f9
D?4I(0 T5= 4?I(C=,, <@DIC=; C=(T=? 2?@(T 4(=3
". 4in the apex mar* on the fabric to the apex position on the dress form.
"$
". 4in the center front grain line fold of the fabric to the center front
position of dress form. nchor pins at C2 nec* and C2 waist. n
additional pin may be required at the bust level tape. 62ig."-a9
- Drape the nec*line by trimming and clipping. ,mooth the fabric over the
shoulder seam and at the waistline of the dress form past the princess
seam. 4in in place. 62ig "-b9
% Mar* all *ey areas of the dress form! nec*line! waistline! princess seam
and style line notches 6$ inches above and below apex9 and shoulder
seam! on the center front panel.62ig "-c9
. True up center front panel. dd seam allowances and trim all excess
fabric and place on the form.
,ID= 2?@(T 4(=3;
$ 4in the side front grainline of the front side panel to the center of the
front princess panel on the dress from matching at the crossgrain of the
side bust panel to the crossgrain of the center front panel.
- nchor pins on the cross grain at the bust level. 4lace another at the
straight of the waistline.
% Clip the waistline at the center of the front princess panel up to the
bottom of the waist seam tape. Drape and smooth the waistline in place.
62ig ""%a9
. 4in the side seam in place by smoothing the fabric past the side seam of
the dress form.
& Drape the shoulder by carefully smoothing the excess fabric above the
bust level up and over the shoulder of the dress form. The grainline will
loo* as if it is angled toward the nec*line. 62ig "%b9
> ,mooth the fabric over the princess seam and pin the princess seam in
place.
: Mar* all *ey areas of the dress form on the side front panel. ?emove
the side front panel from the dress form and true up all the lines. dd
seam allowances.
C=(T=? <CA 4?I(C=,, 4(=3;
"-
". 4in the center bac* grainline fold of the fabric to the center bac* of
the dress from. 4in the crossgrain to the shoulder blade level.
$. Drape and smooth the bac* waistline from center bac* to )ust past the
princess seam. 4in the waistline in place. 62ig.""%b9
-. Drape and smooth the bac* nec*line. ,mooth the fabric over the
shoulder of the dress form and pin in place. 62ig "%c9
%. Mar* all *ey areas. ?emove the panel and true up all lines.
,ID= <CA 4?I(C=,, 4(=3;
". 4in the grainline of the panel on the center of the bac* princess panel on
the dress form matching all crossgrain at the shoulder blade level.
$. Clip the waistline at the side bac* panel and pin the waistline in place.
62ig. ".a9
-. 2rom the grainline of the side bac* panel! smooth the fabric past the side
seam of the dress form. Do not allow the grainline to slip out of
position. 4in the side seam in place.
%. Drape the shoulder by smoothing the excess fabric from above the
shoulder blade level up and over the shoulder seam 62ig ".b9
.. 2rom the grainline of the side bac* panel! smooth the fabric past the
princess seam of the dress form. 4in the princess seam in place. 62ig.
".c9
&. Mar* all *ey areas of the dress form! true up all lines! add seam
allowances! trim excess fabric and chec* for accuracy.
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The newest and most influential silhouette I fashion is the dartless drape. This
is a torso/length bodice without darts or a fitted waist seam. This may be used as a
basic pattern in designing shirts! blouses! or dresses.
4reparation of the fabric;
". Measure the length for both the front and bac* from the nec*band to
the hip level and add . inches. ,nip and tear the fabric this length.
$. Measure the width from the center of the dress form to the side seam
and add % inches and tear the fabric.
-. Draw center and bac* grainlines " inch front the torn edge. 62ig "&a9
"%
%. @n the front piece! draw a first corssgrain "" inches from the top edge
indicating the bust level. Draw another crossgrain "% inches from the
first line indicating the hip level line. 62ig. "&b9
.. @n the bac* piece! draw the first crossgrain > B inches front the top
edge indicating the shoulder blade level.
&. 2or the second crossgrain line! place the front and bac* fabric pieces
side by side. Draw in a perfect bac* crossgrain line at the same level as
the front hip level line. 62ig. ">c9
>. @n the dress form! measure from side seam to the center front at hip
level! add B inch ease and mar* on the fabric for both front and bac*
pieces. 62ig ">d9
D?4I(0 ,T=4,; 2?@(T
". 4in the center front grainline! crossgrain line! shoulder and nec* as
for the bodice.
$. Crossmar* the middle of the armhole area by dividing all excess
armhole ease in half using three fingers. 4ush gently a slight amount
toward the body. Carefully mar* the plate at the screw level onto the
fabric. 62ig ":a9
-. Mar* remaining *ey areas of dress form on fabric.
%. ?emove the front fabric drape from the dress form and true up the
nec*line and shoulder seams. dd seam allowances to the nec*line and
shoulder and trim the excess fabric.62ig ": b9
D?4I(0; <CA
". 4in the center bac* grainline! bac* crossgrain lines.
,mooth and pin
the shoulder and nec* area. definite amount of ease about halfway
from the shoulder seam to the shoulder blade is seem. 3eave this ease
in the armhole. 62ig ":c9
$. Mar* all *ey areas of the dress form on the bac* drape. ?emove the
bac* drape from the dress form and true up nec*lines and shoulder
seams. dd seam allowances and trim excess fabric 62ig. ":d9
".
-. True up the front and bac* side seams and armholes. Drop the
armhole7side seam position $ inches from the side seam plate mar*.
dd .7: inch body ease to the side seam. Connect these new crossmar*s
and draw in a new side seam with a s*irt/curved ruler.
%. Csing a 2rench curve! draw in the armhole shape as shown. +hen the
side seams are pinned together! the armhole should be in the shape of a
horseshoe.62ig. ":e9. The bac* armhole should measure B inch more
than the front armhole. If not correct! scoop out a little from the bac*.
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This is a s*irt without a side seam. The shaped section of the side seam above
the hipline then becomes a dart! and the s*irt is usually seamed together at center bac*.
4reparation of muslin;
$. Tear muslin wit length equals to s*irt length plus % inches and
width from center bac* at the widest point of the hip area plus $ E
inches.
-. Draw a lengthwise grain line for center front and center bac* " inch
from the torn edge.
%. Measure down $ inches from the tip edge of muslin at the center
front and crossmar* for the waistline.
.. Measure down > inches from the waistline for hip line. @n this
line! indicate with a crossmar* the hop level measurement from center
front to side seam plus -7: inch for ease! and indicate the side seam
location with a lightly drawn lengthwise grain line.
&. Indicate hem level $ inches from the lower edge.62ig. "Da9
D?4I(0 ,T=4,;
"&
". Drape front and bac* as for the basic s*irt.
$. t the intersection of the side seam and waistline! pin excess muslin
together. 4in a dart from waistline to hipline following the shape of the
hip curve.62ig. "Db9
-. Mar* front and bac* the same way as for the basic s*irt. t the side
seam dart! mar* both sides of the pins.
%. True front and bac*. The finished pattern is shown in 62ig "D c9
T5= 0@?=D ,AI?T;
The gored s*irt is shaped with seams! and it maybe designed with a slim or
flared silhouette. 2lares may be placed low or high! permitting unlimited styling
possibilities.
4reparation of muslin;
". @n the dress form! indicate the hip level with style tape.
$. Tape the location of each gore seam from the waistline to the hip
level.
-. Tape the level from center front to center bac*! where the s*irt will
begin to flare out 62ig $# a9
%. Tear muslin for front and bac* / length equal to length of s*irt plus
$ inches plus hem and width from center front and center bac*
panels' width at the widest point plus desired amount of fare plus $
inches.
.. ,ide panels / width at widest point plus $ times the desired amount
of flare plus $ inches.
&. Draw a lengthwise grain on center front and center bac* " inch
from the torn edge.
>. Draw lengthwise grain line in the center of each side panel.
:. @n center front grain line! cross mar* $ inches down from the
upper edge of the muslin for waistline.
">
D. 2rom this point measure down > inches for the hip level! and draw
the crosswise grain hipline across all panels.
"#. t the hipline of the dress from! measure the distance from the
center front and center bac* to the gore seam. dd F inch for ease!
and on the muslin! indicate this distance from center front and bac*
on the hipline. 2rom this point ! draw a grain line from hipline to
hem.
"". t hipline of the dress form! measure the distance from the side
seam to the gore seam on both front and bac* side panes. dd F
inch for easeG and on the muslin side panels! indicate this width
centered on the hip line of each panel. 2rom these points! draw
grain lines from hipline to hem.62ig. $#b9
"$. 4in all panels together on gore seam grain lines from hipline to
hem.62ig.$#c9
D?4I(0 ,T=4,;
". 4in center front and center bac* of the muslin to the dress form at the
hipline and waistline.
$. 4in along the hipline form center front to center bac*! distributing ease.
62ig $#d9
-. ,mooth center grain line of side panels to the waistline and pin ta*ing a
pinch for ease.
%. 4in side and center panels together along the gore seam lines. ,lash
muslin beyond the seam! where necessary. 4in side seam together above
the hipline.
.. 4in desired width of flare level taped on the dress form. ?emove pins
along grainlines of all seams to chec* width of s*irt. Ma*e any
necessary ad)ustments. The grains should balance I the flare area62ig.$#
e9
&. ?emove s*irt from the form! and mar* both sides of the pins all seams.
True seams using the s*irt curve above the flare level and a long ruler
along the flares. <lend any points at the flare level into a smooth seam
line. dd seam allowance and trim away all excess muslin.
":
>. =ven length is achieved by measuring the distance from floor to hem
every few inches along the lower edge of the s*irt.
T5= 4=0 ,AI?T +IT5 ,ID= ,=M; 2?@(T
4eg s*irts are draped with fullness at the front waistline tapering to a narrow
hemline. ,tiff fabrics will enhance the characteristic peg shape.
4reparation of muslin;
". Tear muslin with length of $ B inches plus length of the finished
s*irt plus hem allowance and width equals to one half width of muslin.
"D
$. Draw the center front grain line " inch. @n this line crossmar* $ B
inches down from the upper edge of the muslin for the waistline.
-. Draw a crosswise grain line D inches down from the waistline! the
widest part of the hip. @n this line indicate with a crossmar* the hip
level measurement from center front to side seam plus -7: inch for ease.
%. Draw a straight grain line down from the hip level crossmar* to the
lower edge of the muslin 62ig $$a9
D?4I(0;
". 4in the center front at waistline hipline! and lower edge of torso.
$. 4in side seam at the point where peg draping will begin! usually
somewhere between the hipline and the lower edge of the torso. <elow
this point! the s*irt should fall straight with ease! the same as a basic
s*irt. 4in at lower edge of torso.
-. ,lash from the outer edge of the muslin to the pin at the side seam
where peg draping is to begin. 62ig. $$ b9
%. 3ift muslin from the pin and arrange the extra fullness formed at
the waistline. Cnpressed pleats! gathers! or tuc*s may be used
depending on desired effect.
.. ?epeat the pin and slash procedure at the side seam as often as
necessary to achieve the fullness desired at the waistline.
&. ,tyle tape or F inch elastic may by used to hold in fullness at the
waistline. To create a puffed effect! draw out muslin from beneath the
style tape. 62ig. $$ c9
>. Mar* and true the draped area of the side seam! blending the upper
curve with the straight grain at the lowest slash.
:. Mar* and true the waistline. 3eaving seam allowance! trim away
excess muslin at the side seam and waistline. 62ig $$ d9
$#
43=T=D ,AI?T,;
The use of pleats can give s*irts graceful fullness in motion! but at test! pleated
s*irts retain a smooth slim silhouette. To drape and pleat a side or box pleated s*irt!
determine the spacing of the pleats and depth of each pleat as desired.
4reparation of muslin;
". Measure the hip circumference from the center front to the center
bac* at the widest point and add " inch for ease. Divide this
measurement in half for the front and the bac* of the s*irt.
$. Tear muslin for front and bac* with length I length of s*irt plus "
B inches plus hem and width I front or bac* measurement determined in
step " plus the amount of extra fabric needed for the pleats in one/
quarter of the s*irt plus $ inches. 6for side pleats of " inch deep! " B
inches apart! measuring -& inches at hipline! there will be & pleats in
each quarter. =ach " inch pleat will require $ inch of extra fabric.9
-. Draw center front gain line. @n this line! crossmar* " B inches
down from the upper edge of the muslin.
%. Draw a crosswise grain line at hip level. Draw the side seam in
both front and bac*. Draw center bac* grainline. 62ig $- a9
.. 4in/baste the side seam together as shown62ig.$- b9
$"
&. @pen the fabric with seam allowance and pins underneath. To
mar* the muslin for s*irt with side pleats;
a. <egin at the side seam by mar*ing the depth of the pleat at each
side of the side seam.
b. (ext to the depth of the pleat mar*! measure the distance of the
space between pleats and mar*. (ext to the spacing mar*!
measure $ times the depth of the pleat.
c. ?epeat these measurements! alternating the spacing and the
depth of pleat pic* up to the center front and the center bac* of
the s*irt 62ig $- c9
D?4I(0 ,T=4,;
". 4in center front and center bac* of the pleated s*irt to the dress form.
$. 4in along the hipline! *eeping grain straight.
-. d)ust pleats to fit the waistline by ta*ing in even amounts at each side
of the pleat pic*up so that the center of each pleat remains on grain. 4in
pleats down as they are fitted over the hip area. 62ig. $- d9
%. Csing a style tape! mar* the waistline and mar* each pleat from
waistline to hipline. 62ig $-.f9
.. ?emove the s*irt from the dress from. True the waistline and true each
pleat from waistline to hipline. 0ive seam allowances and trim excess.
$$
J@A=,;
Jo*es are relatively small! flat sections of the garment that serve a decorative
and frequently functional! design purpose. +hen the flat section is placed at the
waistline! it is a midriff. 2unctionally! yo*es can hold in gathers or pleats.
T5= 2ITT=D MID?I22;
2or a fitted midriff! muslin is draped close to the body! without darts above the
waistline.
4reparation of muslin;
". Tape the seam lines on the dress from. The bac* should continue in a
harmonious line with the front.
$. Tear muslin with length /height of the midriff plus . inches and width
equals to the widest point plus - inches.
-. Draw a grain line for C2 and C<. @n the C2 line place a crossmar* "B
inch down from the edge. 62ig. $% a9
D?4I(0 ,T=4,;
". 4lace and pin the muslin on the dress from with the crossmar* pinned to
the center front at the taped upper edge of the midriff and C2 waistline.
$. ,mooth muslin toward the side seam until tension appears below the
waistline. ,lash below the waistline at the tension point! pin at waistline
and upper edge of the midriff and slash above the midriff.
-. ?epeat steps - and % as often as needed until the side seam is reached.
%. To accommodate extra fullness in the s*irt or bodice! the midriff should
be draped with the necessary ease. 62ig. $% b9
.. Mar* and true all seam lines! cross mar* at side seams! add seam
allowance! and trim away excess muslin.
$-
&. Drape the bac* following the same procedure as for the front. The
finished pattern is shown in 62ig $% c9
T5= <@DIC= J@A=;
<odice yo*es! molded to the body without darts! may be used in the front or the
bac* of the upper part of the bodice.
4reparation of muslin;
". Tape the desired yo*e shape on the dress form. 62ig. $. a9
$. 0enerally the yo*e gain should be the same as for the rest of the
garment. 2or contrasting effects! crosswise or bias grain may be used
for the yo*e.
-. @n the form! measure the amount of muslin needed for the crosswise
grain and lengthwise grain at the widest and longest points of the yo*e!
respectively. dd at least - inches to each measurement! and tear muslin
accordingly.
%. Draw a grain line for the center front or center bac*.
.. Crossmar* for the nec*line % inches down from the upper edge on
the C2 for a front yo*e! and - inches for the C<
D?4I(0 ,T=4,;
". 4in muslin on the dress form with the crossmar* pinned to the nec*line
at center front or center bac*.
$. 4in the yo*e along the center front or center bac* to the lower edge as
taped on the dress from. Drape the nec* line.
-. ,mooth the grain across the upper chest area! or across the bac*! and pin
at the armhole and shoulder intersection. If the bac* yo*e ends above or
near the shoulder blade line! there will be no need for either a shoulder
or nec*line dart in the bac* yo*e. If however! the bac* yo*e extends
below this line! then a shoulder or nec*line dart will be needed to
maintain a smooth fit.
%. 4in along the taped lower edge of the yo*e.
.. Mar* and true the yo*e outline 62ig $.. b9. Trim away excess leaving
seam allowance. The finished pattern is as shown in 62ig $. c9
T5= 5I4 J@A=;
$%
The hip yo*e is the smoothly fitted section of slac*s or s*irts extending
from the waistline to the hip area. If the hip yo*e is cut no lower than the hip bone!
darts are eliminated! resulting in an unbro*en area below the waist. The hip yo*e can
be styled to achieve various effects. The lower s*irt or slac*s may be straight!
gathered! gored! pleated or flared. 62ig $&. a9
4reparation of muslin;
". Tape the seam lines of the hip yo*e on the dress from. The bac*
should continue in a harmonious line with the front.
$. Tear muslin with length I hip yo*e at the deepest point plus %
inches and width I width of the hip yo*e at the widest point plus
% inches.
-. Draw grain line on the center front " inch from the torn edge.
%. @n the center front grain line! place a crossmar* - inches down
from the upper torn edge 62ig $&. b9
D?4I(0 ,T=4,;
". 4lace the muslin on the dress from with the crossmar* pinned to
the C2 at the waistline of the hip yo*e.
$. 4in the lower edge of the hip yo*e at center front.
-. ,mooth muslin toward the side seam until tension appears above
the waistline at this point! and pin at the waistline. s the muslin
is slashed above the waistline! the gain at the waistline will drop
so that the hip yo*e fits smoothly over the hip. 4lace a pinch for
ease at the waistline of the hip yo*e as slashing and smoothing
proceed. =ase must also be maintained at the lower edge of the
hip yo*e. If the hip yo*e extends below the hipline! the resulting
slight fare provides necessary ease. 62ig. $&. c9
%. Mar* and true all seam lines! add necessary seam allowance and
trim away excess muslin.
.. Drape the bac* following the same procedure as for the front.
The finished patterns are as in 62ig $&. d9
C@33?,;
T5= C@(H=?TI<3= C@33?;
$.
4reparation of muslin;
". Tear the muslin with width equal to/the desired width 6along the grain9
plus % inches and length 6along the crossgrain9 from center front to
center bac* and add % inches.
$. Draw the center bac* grain line " inch parallel to grain and press.
-. Draw a perfect crossgrain line " inch from the lower edge of the fabric.
Draw a shorter second crossgrain line B inch above the first crossgrain
line! starting about - inches from the grainline fold. 62ig. $>a9
D?4I(0 ,T=4,;
". 4in the center bac* grainline fold on the center nec* nec*line position
of the dress form.
$. To drape the bac* nec*line clip smooth and pin the crossgrain along the
nec*line from the center bac* to the shoulder of the dress form.
62ig.$>b9
-. To drape the front nec*line! from the shoulder continue to clip! smooth!
and pin the crossgrain on the nec*line of the dress form. llow the
second crossgrain to drip and shape onto the nec*line at the center front
position of the dress form. 62ig. $>c9
%. To drape the collar stand! fold the fabric over on itself! at center bac*.
nchor a pin on the center bac* upper fold. The fold will continue
around to the front of the drape! gradually disappearing at center front.
62ig. $> d9
.. llow the collar to lay down easily by clipping the collar at the shoulder.
4lace another pin at the center bac* )ust below the nec*line.
&. Continue to trim and clip the fabric up to the desired collar width and
shape.
>. Draw the desired outer edge styling! starting at center front nec*.
Continue to draw the desired collar width! finishing at center bac*.62ig.
$>d9
:. Turn the collar up and draw the nec*line from center bac* to center
front. Cross mar* shoulder position notch.62ig. $>e9
D. ?emove collar! add F seam allowance all around! true all lines and trim
excess. ?eturn on the stand and chec* for accuracy.
$&
T5= M(D?I( C@33?;
The mandarin collar is generally a narrow standing collar! which curves around
the nec* smoothly. The width of the collar and how closely it is draped to the nec*line
will create many different designs.
4reparation of muslin;
". Measure the width of the desired collar and add $ inches and for the
length ! measure the nec* area from center bac* to center front and add %
inches. Tear the muslin.
$. Draw the center bac* grainline " inch along the torn edge! fold and press
under.
$>
-. Draw a perfect crossgrain line " inch from the lower edge of the fabric.
Draw a second cross grainline B inch above the first cross grain line!
starting about - inches from the grainline fold. 62ig.$:a9
D?4I(0 ,T=4,;
". 4in the center bac* grainline fold of the fabric on the center bac*
position of the dress form nec*line. lign the cross grain of the fabric
on the nec*line of the dress form.
$. Clip smooth! pin! and drape the crossgrain along the bac* nec*line
seam of the dress form from the center bac* to the shoulder seam.
62ig.$: b9
-. 2rom the shoulder continue to clip! smooth! pin and drape the crossgrain
on the nec*line of the dress from. llow the second crossgrain to drop
and shape onto the nec*line at the center front position of the dress
form.
%. Draw the desired outer edge styling from center front nec* to center
bac* in the desired width. The outer edge should be parallel to the
draped in nec*line. 62ig. $: c9
.. Draw the new nec*line from center bac* to center front. Crossmar* a
shoulder position notch. 62ig.$:.d9
&. ?emove the collar from the dress form and true up all seams. dd F
inch seam allowance around the outer edges and trim excess fabric.
?eturn to the form and chec* for accuracy.
$:
T5= 4=T=? 4( C@33?;
traditional peter pan collar has very little roll because the nec* edge is curved
similar to the garment nec*line. The peter pan collar can provide appealing design
qualities in such fabrics as fine cottons! laces! open wor* weaves or sil*s.
4reparation of muslin;
". 2or the length and width of this collar measure the desired width and
add D inches. Cut a perfect square this measurement.
$. Draw the center bac* grainline " inch along the torn edge and parallel to
the grain of the fabric.
-. 4repare bac* nec* opening by measuring up from the lower edge half
the measurement of the fabric piece. Draw a perfect crossgrain $ inches
long at this position. Draw a second grainline parallel and $ inches from
the center bac* grainline. Cut along the crossgrain line and the second
grainline and remove this rectangular piece of fabric. 62ig $D a9
$D
%. Draw a short crossgrain B inch below the cut edge crossgrain. This
indicates the center bac*7nec* position.62ig. $Db9
D?4I(0 ,T=4,;
". +ith the fabric flipped up! pin the center bac* grainline of the fabric to
the center bac* position of the dress form nec*line. lign the center
bac* nec*line position of the fabric on the center bac* position of the
dress from. 62ig.$Dc9
$. Clip! smooth! and pin the crossgrain along the nec* nec*line seam of the
dress form from the center bac* to the shoulder seam. 62ig. $Dd9
-. Aeeping the fabric flipped up! pivot the lower edge of the fabric piece
around the front nec*line of the dress form from the shoulder pin. Clip
smooth! drape and pin the fabric around the front dress form nec*line!
finishing of center front position. 62ig $D e9
%. 2lip the fabric piece down over the nec*line so the fabric is laying
down over the body and shoulder areas. 62ig. $Df9
.. To allow the collar to lay smoothly! clip the outer edge of the fabric.
Draw the desired collar style! starting at the center front nec* area of the
dress from.62ig. $Dg9
&. Draw the desired nec*line from the center bac* to the center front.
Crossmar* at the shoulder seam of the dress form. 62ig. $Dh9
>. ?emove the collar from the dress form and true up all seams. dd F
inch seam allowance around the outer edges and trim excess fabric.
:. ?eturn the trued collar on the dress form and chec* for accuracy. The
drape should fit smoothly around the nec*line without gapping or
stretching.
-#
T5= TC?T3= (=CA C@33?;
The turtlenec* collar serves both practical and decorative functions of a design.
The turtlenec* collar is a one I piece standing bias collar rolled over to cover the
nec*line. This bias turnover effects ma*es a smooth roll possible and allows the collar
to be draped into a high nec*line to give a close/to/the body effect or into a wide
lowered nec*line to give a cowl draped effect.
4reparation of muslin;
". @n the dress form place pins at the desired nec*line. Measure the total
desired nec*line. The wider and 7or lower the nec*line the more
exaggerated the turtlenec* collars. 62ig. -#a9
$. 2old a large piece of fabric on the bias 6-#/%# inch square9
-. ,quare a line from the fold two times the desired width of the collar.
This line should be places as close to the left end of the fabric as
possible. 62ig. -#b9
%. Draw a line parallel to the bias fold the length of the nec*line! starting at
the line squared from the fold. t the end of the nec*line length! square
another line down to the bias fold. Cut along these lines and remove the
excess fabric.
.. Csing the regular shaped collar piece draw a straight line parallel to the
length 6nec* edge 9 and another line parallel to the width 6center <ac*9.
6fig -#. c9
-"
D?4I(0 ,T=4,;
". 4in the center bac* guideline to the center bac* position of the dress
form. Aeeping the fabric folded! pin and clip both layers of the fabric
along the desired nec*line guideline. lign the nec*line edge of the
fabric on the desired nec*line guideline of the dress form.62ig. -# d9
$. 2ollowing the desired nec*line guideline on the dress from! continue to
pin and clip both layers of the fabric till the entire desired nec*line is
encircled. 62ig. -# e9
-. Match and pin both center bac* guidelines from the nec* edge up to the
fold of the fabric. 62ig. -# f9
%. 2old the bias fold edge of the fabric bac* over on itself! covering the
nec*line. 62ig. -# g9
.. Draw the entire nec*line. Crossmar* the shoulder position notches.
&. ?emove the collar from the dress form and true up all seams. dd F
inch seam allowance around the outer edges. 6the collar will remain on
the bias.9
>. ?eturn the trued collar to the dress form and chec* for accuracy! fit! and
balance. The drape should roll and fit smoothly around the nec*line.
62ig. -# h9
:. 2or a more draped effect! prepare the fabric wider at the folded edge.
Taper the collar bac* onto the desired nec*line. 62ig. -# i9
-$
C@+3,;
@riginally! the word cowl was used to describe the hooded garments worn by
mon*s. Today! a cowl is any part of a garment that is draped in horizontal loosely
draped bias folds. These softly curved folds form the characteristic cowl nec*line.
There are blouses with high cowls filling in the nec*lines of suits and coats! and at the
other extreme! there are the low alluring cowls used for evening wear. Cowls can e
place at the front or the bac* of the bodice.
0arments that are designed with cowls are usually made in soft fabrics. It is
important that the fabric used for cowls has the same or similar draping quality on both
the lengthwise and crosswise grain. +hen a garment is designed with loose nec*line
cowls in both front and bac*! it is suggested that the cowls be draped over a fitted
bodice and attached at the shoulders.
T5= <,IC (=CA3I(= C@+3;
4reparation of muslin;
". The dress form is prepared as follows; determine the desired nec*line
depth. 4lace a pin on the dress form at this nec*line position. lso!
place a pin on each shoulder seam the width of the desired nec*line.62ig.
-"a9
$. Measure and cut a perfect square of soft fabric wide enough for an entire
front or entire bac* bodice 6 about -% inches square.9
-. Draw a true bias line diagonally across the piece of fabric. To determine
the nec*line and facing area! turn a corner of the fabric deep enough to
reach from one shoulder pin to the other shoulder pin! add - inches for
ease. 4ress in place.62ig. -"b9
D?4I(0 ,T=4,;
". 4lace the folded edge of the fabric on the dress form to drape the center
front nec*line position. Match the center front bias line of the fabric to
the center front nec*line pin on the dress form. 62ig. -" c9
--
$. Drape and pin the shoulders into position by allowing the nec*line cowl
to fall in gently. <e sure to *eep the center front bias line on the center
front of the dress form.62ig. -" d9
-. 3ift and pleat each shoulder to form additional desired cowl drapes.62ig.
-"e9
%. Clip the waistline fabric! pin and drape the waistline! sideseam! and
armhole areas. Mar* *ey areas of the dress form on one side of the
drape only. 62ig. -"f9
.. True up the front cowl drape. dd seam allowances and trim excess
fabric. t the nec*line fold! determine the width of the desired nec*line
facing. Trim excess fabric. 4lace the drape bac* on the dress form.
Chec* for accuracy and ma*e all necessary corrections.62ig. -"g9
&. Drape the bac* as for the ordinary bac*. low bac* nec*line cannot be
used because the drape will fall off the shoulders. lso! the nec*line
shoulder areas should match.
C(D=??M 7 ,ID= ,=M C@+3;
4reparation of dress form and muslin;
-%
". Determine the depth of the underarm cowl desired. 4lace a pin on the
dress form of this underarm7side seam position. lso place a pin on the
shoulder seam at the desired shoulder7armhole position.62ig. -$a9
$. Measure and cut a -&/ inch square of soft fabric. This will be enough
fabric to drape a front and bac* waist seam design forming an under
arm cowl..
-. Draw a true bias line diagonally across the -&/inch piece of fabric.
%. Measure down ". inches from the top edge on the bias line. Draw a
perfect cross bias line. 2old bac* the fabric on this line. 62ig. -$b9
.. Measure up "& inches from the bottom edge on the bias line. t this
position draw a perfect cross bias line. Trim the fabric on this line. 62ig.
-$c9
D?4I(0 ,T=4,;
". 4in the fabric on the dress form at the underarm side seam pin.
4osition and match the bias line at the fold line to the side seam pin
of the dress form. 62ig. -$d9
$. Drape the shoulders and form the cowls by holding the fabric at the
fold line fabric edge and swing the fabric up ad onto the shoulders.
4lace anchor pins at this shoulder position.
-. Clip the fabric on the side seam from the bottom of the bias line! up to
the waistline. 4in the bias line of the fabric to the side seam7waist
position of the dress from. 62ig. -$e9
%. ,mooth and drape the fabric past the center front line till the grain of the
fabric is parallel to the center front of the dress from. 62ig. -$f9
.. ,mooth and drape the fabric past the center bac* line till the crossgrain
of the fabric is parallel to the center bac* of the dress form. 6fig.-$g9
T5= ,5I2T;
@ne of the most comfortable and flattering shapes in fashion is the shift. Cut in
one piece! without constraint at the waistline! it allows freedom of movement and
camouflages the less then perfect figure.

-.
T5= ,T?I05T ,5I2T;
4reparation of and muslin;
". Tape the hipline on the dress from > inches from the waistline.
$. Tear muslin for front and bac*; length equals to % inches plus length of
finished shift at center front plus hem. +idth equals to widest point plus
& inches. 6bust line or hipline9
-. Draw center front and center bac* grain lines " inch from the torn edge.
%. @n the center front! mar* down % inches from the upper edge for the
nec*line.
.. 4in the center front of muslin to the dress from at nec*line and chest.
&. ,moothing on grain across the chest! locate! pin! and mar* the position
of the apex.
>. 3etting muslin hang freely! follow the grain down from the apex and
mar* the hipline level. 62ig.--a9
:. ?emove front muslin from the dress form and draw crosswise grain lines
at the bust and hip levelsG draw one lengthwise grain line down from the
apex and another in the center of the princess panel.62ig.--b9
D. @n the bac* muslin! draw the hip grain line at the same level as on the
front muslin.
"#. To locate the shoulder blade level! pin the muslin to the center bac* at
the hipline! and bring it straight up to the nec*lineG and mar* the
shoulder blade level at the center bac*. 62ig.--c9
"". ?emove the bac* muslin from the dress form! draw in the shoulder blade
level crosswise grain line! and measure and mar* the position of the arm
plate as in the basic waist bac*.
"$. Draw a lengthwise grain line down from the shoulder blade level to the
hipline " $7% inches from the arm plate as in the basic waist bac*.
62ig.--d9
D?4I(0 ,T=4,; 2?@(T
". 4in center front at nec*line and chest and apex. 3etting the muslin fall
straight down from the apex! pin on the hipline at princess seam and
center front.
-&
$. 3eaving adequate ease! pin the side seam at the hipline and bustline
levels.
-. ,hape the nec*line as desired. The shift is fitted above the bustline!
using any of the various dart positions above the bustline level!.
%. Mar* the nec*line! shoulder! armhole! and darts the same way as for the
basic waist. Connect the arm plate and hipline crossmar*s at the side
seam! and draw a lengthwise grain line from the hipline crossmar* to the
lower edge of the muslin.62ig. --e9
.. 3eaving seam allowance! trim away excess muslin at eh nec*line!
shoulder! and armhole.
&. ?eplace the front on the dress fromG fold and pin the excess muslin at
the side seam in preparation for draping the bac*.
D?4I(0 ,T=4,; <CA;
". 4in center bac* at nec*line! shoulder blade level and hipline.
$. ,mooth across the hipline! leaving ease and *eeping the hip grain line
aligned with the tape on the dress formG pin the hipline at the side seam
and at the lengthwise grain line.
-. <ring up muslin so that the lengthwise grain remains straight and
adequate ease is maintained across the shoulder bladesG pin along the
shoulder blade gain line.
%. Ma*ing sure that the lengthwise grain remains straight! pin the bac* to
the front at the side seam! placing one pin at the arm plate and another at
the hipline.
.. Drape the nec*line and the shoulder. The nec*line or shoulder dart is
somewhat deeper on a shift then on a fitted bac* waist. Mar* nec*line!
shoulder and armhole.62ig. --f9
&. Aeeping the side seam pinned together! remove the shift from the dress
form. Trace the front side seam to the bac*.
>. 2or a set/in/sleeve! drop the armhole and give additional ease at the
upper side seam! blending the ease toward the traced side seam at the
hipline.
:. 3eaving seam allowance cut away excess muslin. Clip into the side
seam allowance at the waistline and hipline.
->
D. True all lines and cut away excess fabric.62ig. --g9 replace on the dress
form and chec* for accuracy and mar* hem.
T5= /3I(= ,5I2T;
The shift with a slightly shaped side seam and moderate flare at the hem is the
/line shift. 62ig.-- a9
4reparation of and muslin;
". 4repare the same way as for the straight shift.
$. 4in the front and bac* together at the side seam! the same way as for the
straight shift.
-. 4in the side seam at the waistline to the desired shape. If there is
diagonal pull in the waistline area of the front and bac*! darts must be
added so that the pic*up of fabric at the waistline is balanced all around.
%. Cp to - inches of flare may be added at the *nee level of the side
seam62ig.-% b9
.. <lend the side seam with a gentle curve from the underarm to the
hipline. 2or a set/in/sleeve! allow the necessary ease.
-: