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3.

Deterministic Descriptions of Offshore Waves


To evaluate the fluid-induced forces acting on a structure or on any of its
components, we need to know its surrounding hydrodynamic flow field. For offshore
structures, this flow field arises from time-varying natural processes: winds,
currents, and surface gravity waves. Although these processes nearly always occur in
various combinations, the surface gravity waves, which are usually wind-generated,
are the most important forces to deal with for offshore engineers.
These time-dependent waves occur on two different time scales. The shorter
time scale, measured in minutes and seconds, is useful for describing detailed
features such as wind gusts and surface wave periods. This shorter time scale
corresponds most closely to the response time of fixed offshore structures. The
longer time scale, measured in term of hours, days, or even years, is useful for
describing variations in the wave intensity and in its statistics.
There are two fundamentally different descriptions of surface gravity waves:
deterministic and probabilistic. Deterministic descriptions, analytical or numerical,
are used to characterize the short time scale features of waves. Deterministic
analysis descriptions encompass classical wave theories, which are subdivided into
linear and nonlinear types. Probabilistic descriptions are used to characterize the
long time scale features of offshore waves.

3.1 DESCRIPTION OF PLANE WAVES

Fundamental definitions and concepts


-

The natural occurrence of waves is usually complicated by the simultaneous


superposition of waves of many different shapes and energies. Thus we define a
single wave that always behaves in exactly the same way on passing any given point,
and propagates without change of shape when the surrounding conditions remain
the same.

Further, we consider only plane wave or long-crested waves of permanent form,


waves that are independent of the coordinate normal to the wave propagation
direction. Therefore their crests or troughs can be represented by straight lines in a
horizontal plane. This means that the wave configuration is maintained as one
follows the wave at a speed c, the designation of the phase velocity or celerity.

The general expression for the surface elevation in a progressive sinusoidal wave
moving at a velocity c in the positive x direction is given by

( x, t ) = A cos k ( x ct ) = A cos(kx t )
Where A defines the amplitude of the waves and the k is the wave number and is the
angular frequency which has the relationship of = kc with the wave number k and
phase velocity c.

At t=0, the instantaneous surface elevation is

t =0 = A cos kx
In radian measure, we can see that the wave number has the relationship of k = 2
with the wavelength .

If we let x=0, we have

x=0 = A cos(kct ) = A cos kct = A cos t


In radian measure, we can see that the angular frequency has the relationship of
T = 2 with the wave period T.

The relationship between the phase velocity, the wavelength and the wave period is
given by = cT which means that it takes time T to go one wavelength with the
phase velocity c.

3.2 LINEAR PLANE WAVES

The linear wave theory is alternatively known as Airys theory, small amplitude
theory, and first-order theory. Developed by Airy(1845) and Laplace(1816), it is most
important of the classical theories because it is both easy use and it forms the basis for
the probabilistic spectral descriptions of waves. Results for linear small amplitude wave
theory are summarized in Table 3.1.

Some important notes about the results for linear wave theory are as follows.
-

The water particle velocities and particle accelerations are used in the Morisons
equation to compute the drag and inertial forces of these waves on offshore
structures.

The origin of the wave is arbitrary, which implies that a constant, arbitrary phase
angle cam be added to the term ( kx t ) in the formulas.

Some classical references define the coordinate z as positive downward, which has
the effect of reversing signs for those terms containing z.

3.3 NONLINEA WAVES


3.4 DOMAINS OF VALIDITY FOR WAVE THEORIES

A question that frequently arises concerns the selection of a wave theory for a given
situation. Although there are several bases for evaluating these various theories, no
consensus has yet emerged as to a common basis. As an example, Le Mehaute (1976)
provided Figure 3.10 to aid in selecting an appropriate theory. Here L denotes the wave
length ; H is the wave height (twice the amplitude A); HB is the value of H when the
wave breaks; and d is the water depth.

Example Problem 3.1


Find the maximum horizontal and vertical water particle velocity at an elevation of 10 ft
below the still waterline, in wave that has a period 8 seconds, a height peak to trough of
2 ft, and is propagating in a constant water depth of 200 ft.
1. Deduce the appropriate theory by first computing the following flow parameters:

d / T 2 = 200 / 82 = 3.125 ft / sec2


H / T 2 = 2 / 82 = 0.03125 ft / sec 2
From Figure 3.10, we can see that this wave can be described by linear wave theory, and
that it is a deepwater wave.
2. Compute the wave number.

g
For deepwater, the phase velocity becomes c = ( tanh kd )1/ 2 g / k .
k
(2 ) 2
(2 ) 2
Using kcT = 2 , we get k g / k T = 2 and k =
=
= 0.0192 ft 1
gT 2
32.2(8) 2
3. Calculate u and w using Table 3.1.
From Table 3.1, we get
H cosh[k (d + z )]
u=
cos(kx t )
T
sinh kd
H sinh[ k (d + z )]
w=
sin(kx t )
T
sinh kd
Therefore the maximum values of u and w are obtained by substituting the numerical
values of H=2, T=8, k=0.0192, d=200, z=-10 in the above equations.
(2) cosh[0.0192(200 10)]
umax =
= 0.649 ft / sec
8
sinh[0.0192(200)]
(2) sinh[0.0192(200 10)]
wmax =
= 0.648 ft / sec
8
sinh[0.0192(200)]
We observe that the maximum particle velocities are very nearly identical and these
maximums do not occur at the same time. In deep water waves, we can see that water
particles show circular motions and they have the largest maximum values at the
surface.

HOMEWORK#5
Get the profiles of umax and of wmax by varying z form 0 to -200 ft in the example problem
3.1 and solve the problem 3.5 of the text book.

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