How to Paint a CAR

4 Litres of K&H Surface Primer Filler $53.65

3 Litres of Super Velox Q.D Agricultural Enamel (in your colour) $77.10
250ml of U-Add Enamel Hardener $30.35
4 Litres of Multilac Thinner $18.50
5 Pieces of 80Grit Wet/Dry Sandpaper (more smooth if preferred) $5
2 Rolls of 18mm x 50m Good Masking Tape $4
1 Goggles & Filter Mask Pack 2Pc Set $4
1 Roll of Contact Paper ~$2 (I already had some)
1 Stanley Knife $2
1 Pair of Ear Plugs (if you have a super loud compressor) $0.60
1 GMC Air Compressor $100 (however I borrowed my friend's one)
1 Hose to connect compressor to spraygun $25
1 Spraygun to Hose connector $7
1 High Pressure SprayGun $50 (the most important tool you need!)
1 Sander $25 (very handy or if you are lazy - not absolutely necessary)
Lots of newspaper (to cover your windows etc. with) Free - buy the paper!
Need Liquid measuring cups as well
TOTAL cost $404.20 (to save costs i hope you have friends with some of this
equipment that you can borrow for mates rates)
Ok, now it is firstly advisable to park your car out of the sun, or under a carport like I did
so that the weather elements don't affect your work (rain, hail & shine baby!)

Ideal temperature for spraying is 70-80F. Ideal humidity should be 50% or less
(read entire section before you start). Read the extra tips page for even more spray
paint application guidance. Test the color on the provided test match card before doing
any work to your car. We cannot do anything once paint is on the car.

Surface Preparation
Thoroughly clean the area to be repaired with dish soap (Joy, Dawn etc.) and water. Then
dry completely. Use prep solvent and a clean lint free towel to assure the surface is free of
wax, oil, and other surface contaminates. For better results do not apply paint in direct
sunlight, high humidity, or where silicone waxes and tire dressings are present.

Basic Sanding
Sand out rust, scratches, or bad surface damage with 180-320 grit sandpaper. Primer will
cover over 180-320 grit sand scratches. Use 600 wet sandpaper to sand the area you will
use basecoat. Wet sand the blend panel (area that might get some basecoat and will get
clearcoated) with 1000-1500 grit wet sandpaper. Entire area to be painted should be dull
and smooth.
For new plastic parts lightly scuff the area with a grey fine scuff pad. For new metal parts
you may lightly use a red (medium) for topcoating with solid colors or grey scuff pad
(fine) for metallic and pearls.

Masking Off Adjacent Panels

Mask off adjacent panels to prevent overspray. Use 3M automotive grade 3/4" masking
tape and masking paper or pretaped film. Never tape off mid panel or you will see a tape
line. Make a line with tape first, then tape paper to your existing tape line. Doubling up
newspaper will work fine but paint has a possibility of bleeding through with excessive
heavy coats. Use 1 1/2" or 2" masking tape for small areas like tail lights and reflectors.
In the case of painting in an enclosed area mask the entire car with plastic sheeting to
prevent overspray.

Primer
Use plastic parts adhesion promoter over bare plastic. Spray 2 light coats over lightly
scuffed plastic.
Shake primer well. Apply aerosol primer spray paint over clean sanded metal or plastic
treaded with plastic parts adhesion promoter. Many primer colors are available for better
paint coverage. Primer will fill 180-320 grit wet sandpaper scratches. Apply 3 or more
coats waiting 5-10 minutes dry time in-between coats. Sand the primer in 30 minutes with
600 grit wet sandpaper. Use regular water to clean off sanding dust and dry the area and
then replace the dust contaminated masking tape and paper. Do not use prep solvent over
the fresh primer. Use a tack rag to pick up lint and dust particles.

Spray Paint touch up application

Thoroughly shake the basecoat color spray can before applying. Spray a test panel with

base coat and clear coat first to compare color match and coverage. Apply as many
medium coats necessary to cover the area waiting 5-10 minutes between each coat. Each
coat should appear uniform and dry between each coat. You may gently use a tack cloth
between each dry coat of basecoat. Spray light dust coats if a metallic or pearl color looks
too dark. Wait 30 minutes before using clear coat.
Tri-coat paints are different. You spray the groundcoat color first, one coat at a time until
the area is covered. Then you use the midcoat pearl color. Apply one coat at a time until
you achieve the pearl effect of the factory color.

Clearcoat Spray Paint

Shake aerosol clearcoat well. Allow 30 minutes after base coat color has been applied to
apply the clear coat. Apply 3-4 wet coats waiting 5-10 minutes in between coats. Each
coat should look wet and glossy but not dripping. Wait one day to use rubbing compound.
You may sand out orange peel and light texture, or dust imbedded in the clearcoat film
with 1500 wet sandpaper and then use rubbing compound to bring out the gloss. Do not
wax for 30 days.

Ready To Spray Paint (you need an air compressor and

a spray gun)
Surface Preparation
Thoroughly clean the area to be repaired with dish soap (Joy, Dawn etc.) and water. Then
dry completely. Use prep solvent and a clean lint free towel to assure the surface is free of
wax, oil, and other surface contaminates. For better results do not apply paint in direct
sunlight, high humidity, or where silicone waxes and tire dressings are present. Test the
color match on the provided test card before doing anything else to your car.
You need to use a paint respirator to spray this paint.

Basic Sanding
Sand out rust, scratches, or bad surface damage with 180-320 grit sandpaper. Primer will
cover over 180-320 grit sand scratches. Use 600 wet sandpaper to sand the area you will
use basecoat. Wet sand the blend panel (area that might get some basecoat and will get
clearcoated) with 1000-1500 grit wet sandpaper. Entire area to be painted should be dull
and smooth.
For new plastic parts lightly scuff the area with a grey fine scuff pad. For new metal parts
you may lightly use a red (medium) for topcoating with solid colors or grey scuff pad
(fine) for metallic and pearls.

Primer
One part Acrylic Lacquer Primer: Easiest to use. Ready to spray. Shake it up. Stir it with
a paint stick. Strain it with a strainer right in to the gun cup. Recommended tip size is 1.4.
Spray several coats of lacquer primer waiting 5 minutes between each coat. Wait 20
minutes before wet sanding with 600 water sandpaper.
2 part Urethane Primer: This is catalyzed so don't let it sit in the gun too long. Clean your
paint gun immediately to prevent damage. This product has the best adhesion.
Recommended tip size is 1.5-1.8 All solvent is added, but a small amount of primer
catalyst (hardener) has been provided. Mix this together in a separate plastic cup at a 4 to
1 ratio. Apply 2-3 medium coats waiting 5-10 minutes between each coat. Sand after 2
hours with 600 grit wet sandpaper.

Basecoat Color
Urethane Base Coat: Ready to spray. Shake stir with a paint stick. Strain it right into the
gun cup. Use a gun with a 1.3-1.4 tip size. Apply 2-3 medium wet coats or until covered.
Allow each coat to dry handslick (dull) before going to the next coat. A final mist coat
can be used to make the metallic appear more even. Do not solvent clean or sand in
between coats of basecoat color. Allow the basecoat to dry a minimum of 15 minutes to
apply clearcoat.

Clearcoat
Acrylic Lacquer Clear Coat: Wait one hour for the base coat color to dry before
application. Easiest to use. Ready to spray. Shake it up. Stir it with a paint stick. Strain it
with a strainer right into the gun cup. Recommended tip size is 1.4. Create a slow build
one coat at a time. It takes 4 medium wet coats with a dry time of 5-10 minutes between
coats.
Acrylic Urethane Clear Coat: Highest quality. This is catalyzed so don't let it sit in the
gun too long. Clean your paint gun immediately to prevent damage. All solvent is added,
but a small amount of clear coat catalyst (hardener) has been provided. Mix this together
in a separate plastic cup. It has a 4-1 clear coat to clear hardener ratio. Apply 2 wet coats
allowing the first coat to flash off for 2-5 minutes. Dust free time is 45 minutes, if you
need to buff this clear you can wet sand with 1500 and polish after 24 hours, but is the
easier before 48 hours has elapsed.

Keep Car Clean and New

Products used Zaino and others...
2004 Acura TSX
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Step 1: Wash car
The very first time
I did this, I used a
dishwashing liquid.
Now I know what
you're thinking,
that's nuts but I would only do this one time to make sure I get all the grime/oil/dirt off
the paint of the car. I used Dawn blue which seems to be recommended most of the time.
Remember you do not want to use this regularly which is why I only did this once. You
can use a regular car wash liquid if you are not comfortable doing this. But the goal here
is to remove as much foreign contamination so the coat of polish can seal the paint
properly.
Don't just use any old rags to wash your car. You'll be sorry. I buy a special sheepskin
wash mitts to avoid fine scratches during washing. It's plush and gentle on the paint of
your car. Wash your wheels first. I use a wheel cleaning brush that can reach into the
spoke of the wheels to properly remove dirt and all.
Step 2: Clay
After washing off all the dishwashing liquid, I start the claying process. You do not have
to dry your car first. Prepare a spray bottle that contain water/car wash liquid to use as
lubricant. Claying is easy but you have to be careful or you will end up scratching your
paint. Why clay? The clay as your rub over the paint of your car will pick up any
additional grime/dirt/tar/bird droppings/etc from the paint. Your local car parts store
should have this.
Here's how you do it. Spray an area with the water/car wash liquid mixture. Kneed a
small piece of clay (that you can hold comfortably with your fingers and not drop it) and
rub it over the sprayed area. For the top area of the car, use a front/back motion and for
the side area of the car, use an up/down motion. Rub over the same area until you feel it
going over the paint smoothly. Spray more lubricant if needed. Remember to kneed the
clay after so many passes as you do not want the stuff that it picks up to scratch other
paint area that you are claying. If you happen to drop it on the floor, THROW it AWAY.
Do not try to use it again. It will now have dirt stuck to it from the floor and you will end
up scratching your car. It's not worth trying to save a few bucks over your $$$ car. I went

over every inch of the paint that I can get to with the clay.

Step 3: Wash car again

This time, use a normal car wash liquid to wash off any clay residual.
Step 4: Dry Car
I use a soft silicon squeege and run it over car to remove water quickly. To finish the
drying, use a 100% cotton plush towel to complete the job. Before going forward, I
inspect the paint and remove any minor scratches with Meguiars ScratchX.
Step 5: Quick detail before applying polish
I use Zaino Z6 Gloss Enhancer to quick detail the car. Spray on and wipe off with a new
clean 100% cotton towel. This will remove any water spot and leave the paint smooth.
Step 6: First coat of polish
I use Zaino Z5 with ZFX to provide a faster drying time. You can use a product of your
choice. Use a clean polish applicator pad and squeeze a dime size polish on the applicator
pad. Polish a small area in circular motion and on top area of the car, finish with a
front/back motion and on side area of the car, finish with up/down motion. This is
recommended by the polish manufacturer to enhance the optical property of the polish.
Z5 is suppose to further reduced swirl marks and fine hairline scratches from the paint.
Wait 30 minutes to dry. (Follow the instructions of your polish product if you use a
different product)
Step 7: Clean windows/interior
While waiting for the polish to dry, I take the time to clean the windows and interior of
the car. I used RainX and Stoner Invisible glass product for the windows/glass, 303
Aerospace Protectant for dashboard/vinyl/plastic interior, leather care product for leather
parts. Since there are multiple drying times, I tend to split the interior detailing between
the drying times.
Step 8: Buff and apply second coat
After it has dried, use another clean 100% cotton towel and buff off dried polish. For the
second coat, I use Zaino Z2 with ZFX. Same method as first coat.

Step 9: Buff and apply third coat

Again, after the second coat has dried, buff off with a clean 100% cotton towel. By now,
the car has that truely wet shine that you'll love. ;)
Step 10: Final quick detail
After removing all the polish, I quick detail the car again with a shot of Zaino Z6 to make
sure I removed all polish residual and to give the paint that extra shine. At this step, I also
apply Meguiars High Gloss Gel to the car tires to give it that shine.
Step 11: Finish
This is the most satisfying part of the whole process. Step back and admire your work.
Get a cold drink (non-alcohol ;)) and inspect the car. Get your keys ready as you know
you just want to jump in and take it for a joy ride!!! :)
That's it. You're done. To summarize, what you want to do is:
Wash, Clay, Wash, dry, quick detail, polish, buff, polish, buff, polish, buff, quick detail. I
specify the product that I used in writing this but by all means use a product of your
choice. Always remember to read the instructions and follow them especially mixing,
applying and drying times. But other than that, it should be pretty straight forward. The
reason I went with Zaino or a polymer based polish is I do not want to use a product with
rubbing compound. I would only use that if there is oxidation on the paint and I
absolutely have to rub it off. Hope this helps anyone who wants to get their car looking
great! Have a great day and enjoy your car. :)
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Mini-guide on
watermarked/blurry
windscreens
courtesy from
krismas and other
forumers who

provided tip on v1 thread previously:

oh prior to the singapore trip with family, the 4 to 5 hours of detailing work on the nissan
sentra totally paid off:
rained all the way back from singapore to KL Malaysia, and the windscreen/windows
/side mirrors was repelling water splendidly!
barely need to turn on the wiper at all as the wind from the car's speed is enough to repel
most, if not all of the rain.
method
- full car wash (including rim scrubbing lol, might as well right?)
- using foam pad + tooth paste and slowly scrub the windscreen
- after water rinse/wash, microfiber cloth + vinegar slowly wipe/scrub the windscreen >
water rinse/wash again (at this point you'll notice water is beginning to sheet off properly
- some light claying using only water as lube
- microfiber cloth + apply/wipe around the windscreen with turtle wax glass cleaner, let
dry then microfiber cloth to buff/remove residues (you can start to use hand/plastic bag
test to feel on the windscreen)
- last step = apply rain x with microfiber cloth, let dry/cure and buff/remove residue x2
result = water hates your windscreen now Error: Reference source not found
oh and rain x water beading result is quite pretty too lolz
sorry no pics since was speeding and family's safety is a priority (yes i know that isn't
saying much since i was speeding )
btw thread pinned Error: Reference source not found