Journal
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
Article information:
To cite this document:
Margee Hume Michael Mills, (2013),"Uncovering Victoria's Secret", Journal of Fashion Marketing and
Management: An International Journal, Vol. 17 Iss 4 pp. 460 - 485
Permanent link to this document:
http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-03-2013-0020
Downloaded on: 25 November 2014, At: 04:19 (PT)
References: this document contains references to 118 other documents.
To copy this document: permissions@emeraldinsight.com
The fulltext of this document has been downloaded 3354 times since 2013*
Access to this document was granted through an Emerald subscription provided by 526497 []
For Authors
If you would like to write for this, or any other Emerald publication, then please use our Emerald for
Authors service information about how to choose which publication to write for and submission guidelines
are available for all. Please visit www.emeraldinsight.com/authors for more information.
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
The current issue and full text archive of this journal is available at
www.emeraldinsight.com/1361-2026.htm
JFMM
17,4
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
460
Received 18 March 2013
Revised 20 May 2013
Accepted 17 June 2013
Introduction
This paper qualitatively explores the perception of luxury and luxury brands in
womens fashion and examines whether discrete or inconspicuous fashion such as the
undergarment (also known as intimate apparel or lingerie) is consistent with other
luxury purchases. Recent research has suggested there is not enough research done on
luxury brands (Stankeviciutea and Hoffmann, 2010) with a dearth of studies conducted
in the area of inconspicuous fashion and luxury consumption. Yet the area of womens
undergarment purchasing and luxury brand perceptions is an important one for
researcher and fashion industry interest, for a number of reasons. First of all, the
womens undergarment market is sizeable and growing. For example, the global
lingerie market (lingerie refers to stylish undergarments) is estimated to be around
US$30 billion, with a projected growth of perhaps 9 per cent over the next five years
(www.Fibre2fashion.com, 2013). Second, the market for lingerie and other womens
undergarments is highly brand competitive, and volatile. Renowned brands such
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
as Calvin Klein, Lejaby, Rosy, Lisa Carmel, and Victorias Secret dominate the
international lingerie market, with major womens underwear brands like Hanes and
Maidenform losing market share to retailer private labels such as Victorias Secret
over the last four years (Business Insider.com/citi-womens lingerie market-2012).
Third, the womens undergarment market is characterised by a number of categories
and product types (e.g. shapewear, comfortwear, daywear, bras, and panties), that
require analysis and understanding. Fourth, and importantly, little is known about
consumer motivations and rationales to purchase, brand evaluation, and fashion
perceptions as regards the undergarment market. With an aging population and
changing attitudes to issues like body image, the need for research in the area is critical
to better meet consumer needs and guide marketing efforts.
Thus, the research questions addressed in this study include the evaluation of what
is perceived as luxury in the womens undergarment category, what product and brand
attributes relate to luxury, and what consumer behaviour perspectives in particular
hedonic consumption, may exist with female consumers of the product group of
intimate apparel.
The exploration of these research questions aims to advance our knowledge in the
above areas in intimate fashion, and also cross-sections several interesting and often
neglected areas in fashion and consumption research. First, the undergarment is
typically an inconspicuous or discreet item of clothing and the notion of inconspicuous
fashion has been underexplored. General fashion research has predominantly focused
on issues of perceived and actual self-image (Hite and Bellizzi, 1985) as this relates to
brands, with these presumed to be related to the visual expression of fashion and
the projected image created by fashion. Thorstein Veblens (1894) economic theory of
womens dress contended there is a dual motivation behind conspicuous consumption.
The first is fiscal emulation or wealth status projection to a higher class and social
delineation away from lower social classes. Adopting the premise of visual projection it
would be expected that image, esteem, and wealth projection play little role in discrete/
inconspicuous fashion consumption. As these elements are key motivators of
conspicuous luxury consumption it could be proposed that inconspicuous luxury
consumption may be driven by other factors. Second, this product category includes an
extensive product line depth and breadth characterised by heavy competition between
many well-known international brands and retailer brands. It ranges from functional
underwear to intimate luxury apparel to erotic fantasy with a wide range of
consumption variables and market positions. The divide between mass generic
products and luxury is closing with broader targeted cheaper options known as
masstige brands entering the market (Fionda, and Moore, 2009; Silverstein and Fiske,
2003; Truong et al., 2008). This research aims to advance both brand and consumption
research in this broad category and adds clarity to the role of the luxury brand in
the product category (Atwal and Williams, 2009). Finally, this project includes the
under investigated area of luxury consumption and the corresponding motivational
perspectives of hedonism, holistic, and utilitarian consumption in particular as
related to inconspicuous consumption. With the exception of the limited research
done on the purchasing of brassieres (Hart and Dewsnap, 2001), there is has little
research in this area.
The purpose of this paper is to uncover luxury consumption, brand perception, and
consumer behaviour factors as they relate to the purchasing of female fashion
undergarments. There are broad literatures in each of these areas, the key studies of
which will be cited under the following several section headings.
Uncovering
Victorias Secret
461
JFMM
17,4
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
462
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
market, and its volatile brand competition as described above. The aim of this study is
address key research gaps in this area.
Fashion purchasing, motivations, and the role of the self
Consumer behaviouralists have suggested several perspectives as the foundation of
goods (product and services) consumption and the reasoning behind choice. These
include experiential or hedonic, utilitarian or traditional, and holistic perspectives.
This paper aims to identify the specific traits, attitudes, and behaviours associated
with the purchase of inconspicuous fashion and to relate such perspectives to product
types and branding perspectives in the category of womens undergarments.
A large and growing body of literature addresses fashion purchasing, and the
motivations for doing so. Clothing is an important symbol of society and its values
(Kaiser, 1995; Veblen, 1953), in that it reflects ones perceptions of the self and other
people (Buckley and Roach, 1981; Dillon, 1980), with important implications for the
motivations affecting purchase behaviour. Recent research has examined comparisons
of female and males expenditure and attitude to annual and irregular purchases
(Pentecost and Andrews, 2010) and the influence of fashion groups (Workman and
Studak, 2004) suggesting distinct differences in gender. A further study examined the
relationships among materialism, gender, and fashion consumer groups from two
countries the USA and Korea and found materialism played a strong role in fashion
consumption in both countries, with females scoring higher on materialism than males
in both countries (Workman and Lee, 2011b). Other research suggests females score
higher on vanity and self-consciousness with respect to fashion choice (Workman and
Lee, 2011a, b) with materialism (OCass, 2004; Dittmar and Drury, 2000) vanity and
self-consciousness all influencing the consumer behavior consumption perspective of
womens fashion purchasing.
Clothing and fashion are suggested to show our social role (Miller et al., 1982), affect
self-esteem (Ericksen and Sirgy, 1992), and express personality and the self (Gibbins,
1969; Gibbins and Gwyn, 1975). Research indicates that both actual and ideal selfimage and their congruity are effective predictors of womens clothing preferences
and the brands they purchase (Gutman and Mills, 1982; Ericksen and Sirgy, 1985, 1992;
Aagerup, 2011; Peters et al., 2011). For example, as early as 1982, in a large study of
6,300 women which identified seven segments of representing differing fashion
attitudes and purchasing behaviour, Gutman and Mills (1982), found that women
whose self-concept was defined as fashion leaders purchased fashion brands which
reflected this perception, with the self-image-brand image link demonstrated as well
across the other six segments. There is a wealth of research which has advanced the
understanding of conspicuous fashion with none applied to inconspicuous or discreet
fashion, which forms the focus in this research.
Body image refers to the mental image an individual creates of ones own body
(Garner and Garfinkel, 1981; Jung and Lennon, 2003; Aagerup, 2011). It has also
been demonstrated that women are more likely to be judged on physical appearance
than are men (Locher et al., 1993) with body image and satisfaction positively related
to self-esteem (Lennon et al., 1999; Mulyanegara and Tsarenko, 2009). Research has
shown that women compare themselves to idealised advertising images (Hogg
et al., 1999; Dana et al., 2008). For example, in the current fashion world this means to
achieve the currently fashionable body shape, a young woman has to be so thin that
her weight is far lower than the recommended level for good health (Fay and Price,
1994). The self-evaluative and behavioural outcomes of this comparison process
Uncovering
Victorias Secret
463
JFMM
17,4
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
464
are different for individuals depending on their body mass index and perceived size
(Martin and Xavier, 2010; Smeesters et al., 2010). However, an interesting study by
Aagerup (2011) investigated how the weight of ideal users affects the perception of
mass market fashion brands, examining the countermovement effect of the use of
real women in advertising. Despite the recent use of this type of campaign Aagerups
(2011) research showed that the use of slender models led to the most positive brand
perception, followed by larger obese models.
There is conflicting evidence as to whether or not body image remains important to
women over their lifetimes and their fashion choices. Some researchers report that the
importance declines with age to a minor extent (Pliner et al., 1990), but others record no
change in importance (Gupta and Schork, 1993; Pliner et al., 1990). Other research has
suggested fashion clothing involvement influences fashion clothing knowledge, with
fashion clothing knowledge influencing consumer confidence in making purchase
decisions about fashion brands (Gutman and Mills, 1982; OCass, 2004; Aagerup, 2011;
Peters et al., 2011; Holmlund et al., 2011; Meneses and Rodriguez, 2010). For example, in
a study by Peters et al. (2011) which examined the self-concept and fashion behaviour
of women over 50, individualists who primarily define the self with respect
to unique traits and characteristics, and who see themselves as fashion leaders,
showed significant differences with respect to their shopping behaviours and fashion
knowledge than did relationals, who primarily define the self with respect to social
roles and bonds of attachment. It is proposed in this research that role of self,
self-image, and perceived body image play a role in the intimate apparel purchase with
social outcomes and social symbolism less associated.
Can you see? Inconspicuous fashion and apparel
To date, however, limited research has specifically embraced the general female
consumer and gender with particular reference to inconspicuous fashion and
consumption motivations. Indeed, very little research has been undertaken into
womens purchase of undergarments and the consumer behaviour motivation related
to this type of purchase. The brassiere is an exception, with some limited work in the
area (Hart and Dewsnap, 2001). It has been found that life-style can be used to segment
the bra market (Richards and Sturman, 1977); with product purchase primarily for
purely utilitarian (functional) purposes (Farrell-Beck et al., 1998) or for health and
structural benefits. Equally, the brassiere can serve a cosmetic purpose to enhance selfesteem related to breast size (Koff and Benavage, 1998) or be used in a hedonic, fantasy
role (Ostergaard et al., 1999). Given this multiplicity of purchase motivations it is not
surprising that the brassiere has been found to be a high-involvement product (Laurent
and Kapferer, 1985). While the brassiere has received some, albeit limited attention, we
have found no research dealing with womens motivation to purchase under apparel,
nor have we found any literature relating to our primary research questions noted
at the beginning of the paper, i.e. what is perceived as luxury in the womens
undergarment category, what product and brand attributes relate to luxury and what
consumer behaviour perspectives in particular hedonic consumption, may exist with
female consumers of the product group of intimate apparel. Specifically with respect to
the motivational issues, this research examines research questions including: What are
the consumer traits, behaviours, preferences, and attitudes toward purchasing and
wearing intimate fashion apparel? Is lingerie considered fashion or function or
seduction? Does consumer motivation related to the purchase of these items reflect a
utilitarian, hedonic, or holistic perspective? Based on the interrelationship of fashion
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
Uncovering
Victorias Secret
465
JFMM
17,4
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
466
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
Lingerie was selected by the authors as an item for testing due to the unique
features of these items. It is inconspicuous, can be functional or fantasy, has an
extensive price quality range and is related to personal image and appearance. Each of
these factors may relate to the consumer and their purchase motivations and as yet
have not been tested. It is proposed that the motivation and consumer behaviour
related to lingerie purchase in particular will be deeply embedded in self-image and
self-concept, the user may not be the consumer and the consumer motivational
perspective will include aspects of all three perspectives. The paper will now proceed
with discussion on method and findings, and will conclude with discussion and
future research aims.
Data and method
This study employs a combination of several methodological techniques such as group
narrative projection, extensive in-depth interviewing, and follow-up verification, as
well as mini focus group forum discussions. The process used a funneling technique to
identify simple issues to more complex issues. The subjects were seen as a consultant
customers group of female consumers (Snow and Hrebiniak, 1980). The aim of this
process was to gain a clear understanding of the sample respondents purchase
decisions. Multiple methods were used to triangulate findings and to allow subjects to
freely speak in multiple modes.
Overall across all methods, 119 female consumers aged between 18 and 60 were
used as the archetypes of female consumers for this study. The operational definition of
female consumers was based on gender, ability to purchase freely, and economic
means to purchase. A convenience sample using a snowball technique was adopted.
The sample consisted of a mix of women from social demographics including
single/married/partnered, children/no children, all types of employment, and varied
levels of education.
The method and data collection analysis included several forms of qualitative
data collection to capture all relevant outcomes and triangulate data collection. First,
comments were requested in the form of narrative data collection from two large
groups of women assembled via invitation. The first group included 51 women
and the second group included 53 women. The narrative projective technique was
similar to a large focus group forum where the group was encouraged to speak freely
about their experiences, desires, and perspectives on fashion and fashion
consumption. The group forums included small group activities using mini focus
groups that were then discussed in depth in plenary workshops. These included
pictures of garments, web page visits, and small group discussions. Projection is
based on the hypothesis that individuals will project their own perceptions,
attitudes, feelings, and needs in assigning meaning to relatively ambiguous stimuli
(Esquivel and Flanagan, 2007; Wiggins, 2003; Kramer-Moore, 2010). The narrative
was recorded and transcribed. These discussions were complemented with written
comments from the group. The topic areas were funneled from general topics to more
specific topics related to personal undergarment purchase and inconspicuous
fashion purchases.
The group commented on personal feelings toward fashion, body image, self-image,
pleasure and gift giving, and acceptance. They further commented on price, purchase,
promotion, the functional attributes, and image-related elements of products, branding,
and purchase venue, with these questions funneled to a discussion about lingerie
and undergarments.
Uncovering
Victorias Secret
467
JFMM
17,4
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
468
Forum questions
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
Uncovering
Victorias Secret
469
Table I.
Questions for each method
JFMM
17,4
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
470
Comfort quality
Image
Price quality
Lingerie
Social
Shopping
Special gift
Fashion
Self-indulgent about me
Special
occasions
Figure 1.
Global concept nodes:
Leximancer map
Luxury
Gift
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
early literature of Veblen (1894) and others espousing fashion is a visual expression.
Luxury hedonistic consumption was evident with pathways to self-indulgence,
gifts, and special occasions. However, there was no direct relationship to lingerie apart
from through the intersection with fashion and self-indulgence. It was evident from the
concept map that all women gave some attention to purchase of underwear limiting
impulse purchase and simple purchase. Brand attributes such as price quality and
comfort quality influenced routine purchase behaviour and quality of the item was
considered in both price and function.
The map has introduced the global concepts of the 119 female subjects and their
consumption behaviours. The following section will offer coverage of the findings,
narrative comments, and incorporate meaning and discussion on the scripts collected.
The discussion proceeds with what is luxury, the concept of discrete fashion perceived
luxury and behaviour, product attributes, brand image, functionality and purchase
variables, self-image, and consumer behaviour perspectives. The paper concludes with
a final discussion on inconspicuous fashion consumption. Consistent with Arnould
et al. (2006) subject narratives are offered.
Defining luxury
The subjects responses related to luxury items were consistent with the concept of
sacrifice and self-indulgence. The majority of subjects (70 per cent) in the forums
defined luxury as relating to an economic perspective of staple and luxury items, with
luxury a purchase of product and services outside the normal household budget.
This type of purchasing viewed luxury purchasing as an extra. This was confirmed by
12 subjects in the in depth interviews. In total, 13 in-depth interview subjects identified
sunglasses and perfume as luxury products with massages and beauty treatments as
luxury service purchases. Several subjects identified high-end lingerie (six), fashion
(11), jewellery (13), and footwear (12) as luxury. Six subjects suggested high value/
tickets to shows and complex purchases such as holidays (seven) and some forms of
technology (six) as forms of luxury consumption. When probed 14 subjects suggested
intimate high-end lingerie fitted the perception of a luxury good. However, most
subjects suggested daily underwear and garments were seen as functional (e.g. Antz
Pant, Nepon, Undeez, Bonds brands) and holistic brands (Nancy Gants, body
contouring). The following are comments drawn from the interviews:
.
Subject 5: They come in different groups. There are household ones (Luxury),
personal ones, totally not necessary, event things like a holiday, theme park.
Subject 6: The dearer end of the range I see as luxury like schools going to a
private grammar [y] a luxury [y] (or an investment).
Subject 7: Things that are not necessary but nice to have, like a high end
camera.
Uncovering
Victorias Secret
471
JFMM
17,4
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
472
from the majority in the forum and 12 subjects in the interviews was that most luxury
products were big ticket items and were more often rarely purchased and rarely used in
day to day living. Interestingly, luxury products ranged from tangible to intangible and
were primarily conspicuous. This is of interest and support the role of luxury as a
social status projection. In total, 12 interview subjects also supported the notion of
self-indulgence supporting the notion of hedonism eight subjects narratives related to
luxury product type further included:
.
Subject 5: Personal items more than what you need, sunglasses, jewellery,
branded clothing, e.g. true religion jeans, designer fashion labels jimmy Choo
shoes.
Subject 7: Renovating and Home help, it is a luxury to have enough to afford the
extras, the best and those things that you cant do yourself, so just dont do.
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
Uncovering
Victorias Secret
473
JFMM
17,4
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
474
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
(four) who could identify brands and in the contouring apparel where only one brand
label could be identified. This is suggested as a reflection of the frequency of purchase
and the brand exposure in variety and discount outlets.
Quality was related to longevity of the product, life of the product, functionality
(shapewear/support), comfort, and brand. In total, 14 subjects primarily suggested
most commonly that underwear and inconspicuous garments were purchased for
functionality. The brands purchased were well known and recognised and included
names like Bonds, Triumph, Berlei, and Ants Pants. Brands like Victorias Secret were
seen as higher end and were discussed related to the Victorias angels and some of the
supermodels. Interestingly the promotional activity and celebrity influence played a
strong role in the brand recognition of this higher end brand. Limited impulse purchase
was identified. For functional purchases, planned sale purchase, and knowledge of
annual sales for these purchases were very common with all interview subjects
suggesting this was part of the purchasing cycle for them. This was evidenced, for
example, with Bonds brand purchases by the majority of subjects.
The predominant purchase attribute suggested was function which included fit,
support, and comfort. Functional emphasis was an interesting finding that supports
the suggestion of the new ideal of femininity. This new ideal is suggested to include
physical activity, a strong sense of self with this stronger self-depiction influenced
product/service purchase. Henry (2005) suggests women have changed and their ideas
about beauty and the overt saleability of sex and sexiness is no longer a positive
indicator of purchase. This is certainly supported in this research in both the body
contouring and regular undergarment purchases.
Search and involvement
Nine subjects suggested functional undergarment purchases showed lower
involvement, with expensive lingerie purchases seen to require higher purchase
involvement. This aligns with other high-end fashion goods and premium product
purchase theory (Amatulli and Guido, 2011). The implications for fashion retailers and
marketing managers are to ensure customer support for purchase decisions is evident
for the higher end products. Several subjects in both the interviews (11) and the forum
(88) identified a moderate involvement search for quality and value with loyalty and
brand preference resulting from the confirmation of factor expectations. Interestingly,
bras were seen as a functional product and a comfort/price trade-off was evident. There
were some subjects who did suggest comfort and look were prime motivators in bra
purchases. Repeat brand purchase was very common and comfort and functionality
drove brand recognition and brand preference. Little impulse purchase was identified.
Image and esteem
Overall, 12 subjects had a strong perceived self-image with body size and appearance
not specifically related to perceived self-image. Size appeared to play no part in
purchase. In fact there appeared no correlation between size and perceived image and
or marital status and perceived image. Sense of sexual self/how sexy do you think you
are was highly correlated with a perceived self-image and desire/actual purchase of
product supporting the self-indulgent hedonic proposition. It was evident with the
majority of subjects that esteem was outweighed by subjects perceptions of value and
function. Banister and Hogg (2004) suggests that self-esteem is an important
motivational drive for consumption and supports both the acceptance and rejection/
avoidance of symbolic goods. This research supports a relationship between perceived
Uncovering
Victorias Secret
475
JFMM
17,4
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
476
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
Uncovering
Victorias Secret
477
JFMM
17,4
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
478
area, however, as it has dealt with inconspicuous or discrete fashions rather than
conspicuous ones.
The findings indicate that for luxurious intimate apparel marketing to be effective
and credible, the marketed fashion items, and actions taken by designers, and retailers
need to be consistent with the consumers personal style, value perceptions, and
self-image. In addition, the study results show that the purchase of sexy, luxury
fashion lingerie is a high-involvement purchase that is correlated with a strong
self-image. Retailers need to reinforce and support this purchasing aspect in this
category. Retailers will need to conduct research among their target consumes to better
understand the nature of the purchase process and the mechanisms by which purchase
in-store can be better facilitated. For both manufacturer and retailer brands it is
suggested that the use of celebrity endorsements and reference group influencing for
luxury intimate apparel purchasers will be likely less effective influencers than the
potential purchasers own self-image and self-esteem. Brand positioning will need to
reflect a message which fosters and reinforces the brand image and self-image link in
promotional efforts. For luxury brands that in this sample had a low recognition the
use of celebrity endorsement with Miranda Kerr and Heidi Klum and the Victoria
Secret angels has worked well. More functional brands are strongly related to point of
same material and functional comfort. It is also clear that manufactures of high-end
luxury lingerie may need to address the lack of brand awareness we found in our study.
Directions for future research
This research has contributed significantly to our knowledge of inconspicuous or
discrete fashion purchasing of womens undergarments In particular the study has
contributed to our understanding of the role of brands and brand images, consumer
perspectives of luxury, and the motivations and other consumer behavior elements that
influence purchasing within the several categories that make up womens
undergarments. The findings of the study also suggest areas for further academic
research regarding fashion purchasing in the womens undergarment area. Further
research, both qualitative and quantitative could be directed at refining the
understanding of the role of brand image and positioning in the various categories that
make up womens undergarments. Other research might further examine the
promising link between the purchasers self-image and self-esteem and purchase of
inconspicuous fashion as well as to developing a great understanding and profiling of
the size and purchasing variants of the various segments involved in such purchases.
It may well be, as suggested in this study, that there is a fashion continuum that applies
to the inconspicuous fashion purchasing arena, as there has been shown to be in the
conspicuous fashion purchasing area (e.g. Gutman and Mills, 1982). Future research
might be productively aimed at this area. This research also suggested some support
for Henrys (2005) notion that woman have changed their ideas about beauty and the
overt salability of sex and sexiness. Further research in this area as it relates to
inconspicuous fashions and brand positioning could potentially benefit as well.
References
Aagerup, U. (2011), The influence of real women in advertising on mass market fashion brand
perception, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol. 15 No. 4, pp. 486-502.
Addis, M. and Holbrook, M.B. (2001), On the conceptual link between mass customisation and
experiential consumption: an explosion of subjectivity, Journal of Consumer Behaviour,
Vol. 1 No. 1, pp. 50-66.
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
Ahuvia, A.C. (2005), Beyond the extended self: loved objects and consumers identity
narratives, Journal of Consumer Research, Vol. 132 No. 1, pp. 171-184.
Arnold, M.J. and Reynolds, K.E. (2012), Approach and avoidance motivation: investigating
hedonic consumption in a retail setting, Journal of Retailing, Vol. 88, No. 3, pp. 399-411.
Arnould, E.J., Price, L.L. and Moisio, R. (2006), Making contexts matter: selecting research
contexts for theoretical insights, Handbook of Qualitative Research Methods in Marketing,
pp. 106-125.
Atwal, G. and Williams, A. (2009), Luxury brand marketing the experience is everything,
Journal of Brand Management, Vol. 16 Nos 5/6, pp. 338-346.
Banister, E.N. and Hogg, M.K. (2004), Negative symbolic consumption and consumers drive for
self-esteem: the case of the fashion industry, European Journal of Marketing, Vol. 38 No. 7,
pp. 850-868.
Berthon, P., Pitt, L., Parent, M. and Berthon, J.P. (2009), Aesthetics and ephemerality: observing
and preserving the luxury brand, California Management Review, Vol. 52 No. 1,
pp. 45-66.
Brucks, M., Zeithaml, V.A. and Naylor, G. (2000), Price and brand name as indicators of quality
dimensions for consumer durables, Journal of the Academy of Marketing Science, Vol. 28
No. 3, pp. 359-374.
Buckley, H.M. and Roach, M.E. (1981), Attraction as a function of attitudes and dress, Home
Economics Research Journal, Vol. 10 No. 1, pp. 88-97.
Business Insider.com/citi-womens lingerie market-2012.
De Klerk, H.M. and Lubbe, S. (2008), Female consumers evaluation of apparel quality: exploring
the importance of aesthetics, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol. 12
No. 1, pp. 36-50.
Dittmar, H. and Drury, J. (2000), Self-image is it in the bag? A qualitative comparison between
ordinary and excessive consumers, Journal of Economic Psychology, Vol. 21 No. 2,
pp. 109-142.
Eisenhardt, K. (1989), Building theory from case study research, Academy of Management
Review, Vol. 14 No. 4, pp. 592-611.
Ericksen, M.K. and Sirgy, M.J. (1985), Achievement motivation and clothing preferences of
white-collar working women, in Solomon, M. (Ed.), The Psychology of Fashion, D.C. Heath
and Company, Lexington, MA, pp. 195-206.
Ericksen, M.K. and Sirgy, M.J. (1992), Employed females clothing preference, self-image
congruence, and career anchorage, Journal of Applied Social Psychology, Vol. 22 No. 5,
pp. 408-422.
Esquivel, G.B. and Flanagan, R. (2007), Narrative methods of personality assessment in school
psychology, Psychology in the Schools, Vol. 44 No. 3, pp. 271-280.
Farrell-Beck, J., Poresky, L., Paff, J. and Moon, C. (1998), Brassieres and womens health from
1863 to 1940, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Vol. 16 No. 3, pp. 105-115.
Fay, M. and Price, C. (1994), Female body-shape in print advertisements and the increase
in anorexia nervosa, European Journal of Marketing, Vol. 28 No. 12, pp. 5-18.
Fionda, A.M. and Moore, C.M. (2009), The anatomy of the luxury fashion brand, Journal
of Brand Management, Vol. 16 Nos 5/6, pp. 347-363.
Garner, D.M. and Garfinkel, P.E. (1981), Body image in anorexia nervosa: measurement, theory
and clinical implications, International Journal of Psychiatry in Medicine, Vol. 2 No. 11,
pp. 263-284.
Gibbins, K. (1969), Communications aspects of womens clothes and their relation to
fashionability, British Journal of Social and Clinical Psychology, Vol. 8, pp. 301-312.
Uncovering
Victorias Secret
479
JFMM
17,4
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
480
Gibbins, K. and Gwyn, T.K. (1975), A new theory of fashion change: a test of some predictions,
British Journal of Social and Clinical Psychology, Vol. 14, pp. 1-9.
Godey, B., Lagier., J. and Pederzoli, D. (2009), A measurement scale of Aesthetic style applied to
luxury goods stores, International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, Vol. 37
No. 6, pp. 527-537.
Gupta, M.A. and Schork, N.J. (1993), Aging-related concerns and body image: possible future
implications for eating disorders, International Journal of Eating Disorders, Vol. 14 No. 4,
pp. 481-486.
Gutman, J. and Mills, M.K. (1982), Fashion life style, self-concept, shopping orientation and store
patronage, Journal of Retailing, Vol. 58 No. 2, pp. 64-86.
Hagtvedt, H. and Patrick, V.M. (2009), The broad embrace of luxury: hedonic potential as a
driver of brand extendibility, Journal of Consumer Psychology, Vol. 19 No. 4, pp. 608-618.
Hart, C. and Dewsnap, B. (2001), An exploratory study of the consumer decision process for
intimate apparel, Journal of Fashion Marketing Management, Vol. 5 No. 2, pp. 108-119.
Hira, T.K. and Mugenda, O.M. (1999), The relationships between self-worth and financial
beliefs, behavior, and satisfaction, Journal of Family and Consumer Sciences, Vol. 91 No. 4,
pp. 76-82.
Hite, R.E. and Bellizzi, J.A. (1985), Differences in the importance of selling techniques between
consumer and industrial salespeople., Journal of Personal Selling & Sales Management,
November, pp. 19-30.
Henry, P.C (2005), Social class, market situation, and consumers metaphors of (Dis)
empowerment, Journal of Consumer Research, Vol. 31 No. 4, pp. 766-778.
Hirschman, E.C. (1982), Hedonic consumption: emerging concepts, method and propositions,
Journal of Marketing, Vol. 46 No. 3, pp. 92-102.
Hogg, M.K., Bruce, M. and Hough, K. (1999), Female images in advertising: the implications of social
comparison for marketing, International Journal of Advertising, Vol. 18 No. 4, pp. 445-473.
Holbrook, M. and Hirschman, E. (1982), The experiential aspects of consumption: consumer
fantasies, feelings and fun, Journal of Consumer Research, Vol. 9 No. 4, pp. 132-140.
Holmlund, M., Hagman, A. and Polsa, P. (2011), An exploration of how mature women buy
clothing: empirical insights and a model, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management,
Vol. 15 No. 1, pp. 108-122.
Hubbert, A., Sehorn, A. and Brown, S. (1995), Service expectations: the consumer versus the
provider, International Journal of Service Industry Management, Vol. 6 No. 1, pp. 6-21.
Husic, M. and Cicic, M. (2009), Luxury consumption factors, Journal of Fashion Marketing and
Management, Vol. 13 No. 2, pp. 231-245.
Jamal, A. and Goode, M.M.H. (2001), Consumers and brands: a study of the impact of self-image
congruence on brand preference and satisfaction, Marketing Intelligence & Planning,
Vol. 19 No. 7, pp. 482-492.
Jung, J. and Lennon, S.J. (2003), Body image, appearance self-schema, and media images, Family
and Consumer Sciences Research Journal, Vol. 32 No. 1, pp. 27-51.
Kaiser, L. (1995), The black Madonna: notions of true womanhood from Jacobs to Hurston,
South Atlantic Review, Vol. 60 No. 1, pp. 97-109.
Kang, J. and Park-Poaps, H. (2010), Hedonic and utilitarian shopping motivations of fashion
leadership, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol. 14 No. 2, pp. 312-328.
Kapferer, J.N. (1997), Managing luxury brands, Journal of Brand Management, Vol. 4 No. 4,
pp. 251-260.
Kapferer, J.N. and Bastien, V. (2009), The specificity of luxury management: turning marketing
upside down, Journal of Brand Management, Vol. 16 Nos 5/6, pp. 311-322.
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
Kapferer, J.N. and Bastien, V. (2010), The Luxury Strategy: Break the Rules of Marketing to Build
Luxury Brands, Kogan-Page, London.
Kramer-Moore, D. (2010), Asymmetrical clustering by sex in free-forming groups:
an observational field study 1, Psychological Reports, Vol. 107 No. 1, pp. 245-250.
Ko, E. and Megehee, C.M. (2011), Fashion marketing of luxury brands: recent research issues
and contributions, Journal of Business Research, Vol. 65 No. 10, pp. 1395-1398.
Koff, E. and Benavage, A. (1998), Breast size perception and satisfaction, Body Image, and
Psychological Functioning in Caucasian and Asian American College Women, Sex Roles,
Vol. 38 Nos 7/8, pp. 655-673.
Klein, L.R. (1998), Evaluating the potential of interactive media through a new
lens: search versus experience goods, Journal of Business Research, Vol. 41 No. 3,
pp. 195-203.
Laurent, G. and Kapferer, J.N. (1985), Measuring consumer involvement profiles, Journal of
Marketing Research, Vol. 22 No. 1, pp. 41-53.
Lennon, S.J., Rudd, N., Sloan, B. and Kim, J. (1999), Attitudes toward gender roles, self-esteem,
and body image: application of a model, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Vol. 17
No. 4, pp. 191-202.
Locher, P., Unger, R., Sociedade, P. and Wahl, J. (1993), At first glance: assessibilty of the physical
attractiveness stereotype, Sex Roles, Vol. 28 Nos 11-12, pp. 729-743.
Leibenstein, H. (1950), Bandwagon, Snob, and Veblen effects in the theory of consumers
demand, Quarterly Journal of Economics, Vol. 64 No. 2, pp. 183-207.
McKenna, B. and Rooney, D. (2005), Wisdom management: tensions between theory and practice
in practice, Conference Proceedings of Knowledge Management in the Asia Pacific
(KMAP), Wellington, November.
Malhotra, N.K. (1988), Self concept and product choice: an integrated perspective, Journal of
Economic Psychology, Vol. 9 No. 1, pp. 1-28.
Markus, H. and Nurius, P. (1986), Possible selves, American Psychologist, Vol. 41 No. 9,
pp. 954-969.
Martin, B.A. and Xavier, R. (2010), How do consumers react to physically larger models? Effects
of model body size, weight control beliefs and product type on evaluations and body
perceptions, Journal of Strategic Marketing, Vol. 18 No. 6, pp. 489-501.
Martin, W.S. and Bellizzi, J. (2008), An analysis of congruous relationships between self-images
and product images, Academy of Marketing Science. Journal, Vol. 10 No. 4, pp. 473-479.
Mehta, A. (1999), Using self-concept to assess advertising effectiveness, Journal of Advertising
Research, Vol. 39 No. 1, pp. 81-89.
Meneses, G.D. and Rodriguez, J. (2010), A synchronic understanding of involvement with
fashion: a promise of freedom and happiness, Journal of Fashion Marketing and
Management, Vol. 14 No. 1, pp. 72-87.
Midgely, D.F. (1983), Patterns of interpersonal information seeking for the purchase of a
symbolic product, Journal of Marketing Research, Vol. 20 No. 1, pp. 74-83.
Miles, M. and Huberman, A. (1994), An Expanded Sourcebook: Qualitative Data Analysis, 2nd ed.,
Sage Publications International, New York, NY.
Miller, F., Feinberg, R., Davis, L. and Rowold, K. (1982), Measurement of individual differences in
sensitivity to appearance, Home Economics Research Journal, Vol. 10, pp. 381-390.
Miller, K.W. and Mills, M.K. (2012a), Contributing clarity by examining brand luxury in the
fashion market, Journal of Business Research, Vol. 65 No. 10, pp. 1471-1479.
Miller, K.W. and Mills, M.K. (2012b), Probing brand luxury: a multiple lens approach, Journal of
Brand Management, Vol. 20 No. 1, pp. 42-51.
Uncovering
Victorias Secret
481
JFMM
17,4
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
482
Montealegre, R. (2002), A process model of capability development: lessons from the electronic
commerce strategy at Bolsa de Valores de Guayaquil, Organizational Science, Vol. 13
No. 5, pp. 514-531.
Mulyanegara, R. and Tsarenko, Y. (2009), Predicting brand preferences: an examination of the
predictive power of consumer personality and values in the Australian fashion market,
Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol. 13 No. 1, pp. 358-371.
Nia, A. and Zaichkowsky, J.L. (2000), Do counterfeits devalue the ownership of luxury brands,
Journal of Product and Brand Management, Vol. 9 No. 7, pp. 485-501.
Noble, C.H. and Walker, B.A. (1997), Exploring the relationships among subliminal transitions,
symbolic consumption, and the extended self , Psychology & Marketing, Vol. 14 No. 1,
pp. 29-47.
Nueno, J.L. and Quelch, J.A. (1998), The mass marketing of luxury, Business Horizons, Vol. 41
No. 6, pp. 61-68.
OCass, A. (2004), Fashion clothing consumption: antecedents and consequences of fashion
clothing involvement, European Journal of Marketing, Vol. 38 No. 7, pp. 869-882.
Onkvisit, S. and Shaw, J. (1987), Self-concept and image congruence: some research and
managerial implications, Journal of Consumer Marketing, Vol. 4 No. 1, pp. 13-23.
Ostergaard, P., Fitchett, J.A. and Jantzen, C. (1999), On appropriation and singularisation: two
consumption processes, Advances in Consumer Research, Vol. 26 No. 1, pp. 405-409.
Park, C.W., Milberg, S. and Lawson, R. (1991), Evaluation of brand extensions: the role of
product feature similarity and brand concept consistency, Journal of Consumer Research,
Vol. 18 No. 2, pp. 185-193.
Patton, M.Q. (1990), Qualitative Evaluation and Research Methods, 2nd ed., Sage Publications,
London.
Pentecost, R. and Andrews, L. (2010), Fashion retailing and the bottom line: the effects of
generational cohorts, gender, fashion fanship, attitudes and impulse buying on fashion
expenditure, Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, Vol. 17 No. 1, pp. 43-52.
Peters, C., Shelton, J.A. and Thomas, J.B. (2011), Self-concept and the fashion behaviour of women
over 50, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, Vol. 15 No. 3, pp. 291-305.
Phau, I.Y. and Prendergast, G. (2000), Impact of conspicuous consumption on country of origin
of brand: an Asian model, in Gabriel, O. and Rony, G. (Eds), Advances in International
Marketing and Global Strategy, Academic Press International, Perth, WA, pp. 13-23.
Pliner, P., Chaiken, S. and Flett, G.L. (1990), Gender differences in concern with body weight and
physical appearance over the life span, Personality and Social Psychology Bulletin, Vol. 16
No. 2, pp. 263-273.
Richards, E.A. and Sturman, S.S. (1977), Life-style segmentation in apparel marketing, Journal
of Marketing, Vol. 41 No. 4, pp. 89-91.
Roux, E. and Floch, J.-M. (1996), Gerer LIngerable: La Contradiction Interne de toute Maison de
Luxe, Decisions Marketing, Vol. 9 Nos 2-3, pp. 15-23.
Silverstein, M.J. and Fiske, N. (2003), Luxury for the masses, Harvard Business Review, Vol. 81
No. 4, pp. 48-57.
Sirgy, M.J. (1982), Self-concept in consumer behavior: a critical review, Journal of Consumer
Research, Vol. 9 No. 3, pp. 287-300.
Sirgy, M.J. (1985), Using self-congruity and ideal congruity to predict purchase motivation,
Journal of Business Research, Vol. 13 No. 3, pp. 363-376.
Sirgy, M.J., Grewal, D., Mangleburg, T.F. and Park, J.-o. (1997), Assessing the predictive validity
of two methods of measuring self-image congruence, Academy of Marketing Science.
Journal, Vol. 25 No. 3, pp. 229-241.
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
Smeesters, D., Mussweiler, T. and Mandel, N. (2010), The effects of thin and heavy media
images on overweight and underweight consumers: social comparison processes
and behavioural implications, Journal of Consumer Research, Vol. 36 No. 6,
pp. 930-949.
Smith, A.E. (2003), Automatic extraction of semantic networks from text using
Leximancer, Proceedings of the 2003 Conference of the North American Chapter of the
Association for Computational Linguistics on Human Language Technology:
Demonstrations, Association for Computational Linguistics, Edmonton,, Vol. 4, May 27June 1, pp. 23-24.
Smith, A.E. and Humphreys, M. (2006), Evaluation of unsupervised semantic mapping of
natural language with Leximancer concept mapping, Behaviour Research Methods,
Vol. 38 No. 2, pp. 262-279.
Snow, C.C. and Hrebiniak, L.G. (1980), Strategy, distinctive competence and organisational
performance, Administrative Science Quarterly, Vol. 25 No. 2, pp. 317-336.
Solomon, M.R. (1983), The role of products as social stimuli: a symbolic interactionism
perspective, Journal of Consumer Research, Vol. 10 No. 3, pp. 319-329.
Spreng, R.A. and Olshavsky, R.W. (1993), A desires congruency model of consumer
satisfaction, Journal of the Academy of Marketing Science, Vol. 21 No. 3, pp. 169-177.
Stankeviciutea, R. and Hoffmann, J. (2010), The impact of brand extension on the parent luxury
fashion brand: the cases of Giorgio Armani, Calvin Klein and Jimmy Choo, Journal of
Global Fashion Marketing, Vol. 1 No. 2, pp. 119-128.
Stubbs, M. (1996), Text and Corpus Analysis: Computer-Assisted Studies of Language and
Culture, Blackwell Publishers, Cambridge, MA.
Tian, K.T., Bearden, W.O. and Hunter, G.L. (2001), Consumers need for uniqueness:
scale development and validation, Journal of Consumer Research, Vol. 28 No. 1,
pp. 50-66.
Truong, Y.S.C., McColl, R. and Kitchen, P.J. (2008), Status and conspicuousness are they
related? Strategic marketing implications for luxury brands, Journal of Strategic
Marketing, Vol. 16 No. 3, pp. 189-203.
Tynan, C., McKechnie, S. and Chhuon, C. (2010), Co-creating value for luxury brands, Journal of
Business Research, Vol. 63 No. 11, pp. 1156-1163.
Veblen, T. (1894), The economic theory of womans dress, The Popular Science Monthly, Vol. 46,
pp. 198-205.
Veblen, T. (1953), The Theory of the Leisure Class, Mentor Books, New York, NY.
Von Hippel, E. (1986), Lead users: a source of novel product concepts, Management Science,
Vol. 32 No. 7, pp. 791-805.
Vigneron, F. and Johnson, L.W. (1999), A review and a conceptual framework of
prestige-seeking consumer behavior, Academy of Marketing Science Review, Vol. 1999
No. 1, pp. 1-15.
Vigneron, F. and Johnson, L.W. (2004), Measuring perceptions of brand luxury, Journal of
Brand Management, Vol. 11 No. 6, pp. 484-506.
Wiggins, S. (2003), Introduction to Applied Nonlinear Dynamical Systems and Chaos, Vol. 2,
Springer, New York, NY.
Workman, J.E. and Lee, S.-H. (2011a), Materialism, fashion consumers and gender: a cross-cultural
study, International Journal of Consumer Studies, Vol. 35 No. 1, pp. 50-57.
Workman, J.E. and Lee, S.-H. (2011b), Vanity and public self-consciousness: a comparison of
fashion consumer groups and gender, International Journal of Consumer Studies, Vol. 35
No. 3, pp. 307-315.
Uncovering
Victorias Secret
483
JFMM
17,4
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
484
Workman, J.E. and Studak, C.M. (2004), Relationships among fashion consumer groups, locus of
control, boredom proneness, boredom coping and intrinsic enjoyment, International
Journal of Consumer Studies, Vol. 31 No. 1, pp. 66-75.
www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/18/1787lingerienotjust-anotherfrenchterm/2013.
Further reading
Ericksen, M.K. and Sirgy, M.J. (1989), Achievement motivation and clothing behavior: a
self-image congruence analysis, Journal of Social Behavior and Personality, Vol. 4 No. 4,
pp. 307-326.
Holbrook, M.B. (2000), The millennial consumer in the text of our times: experience and
entertainment, Journal of Macromarketing, Vol. 20 No. 2, pp. 178-192.
Hopkinson, G. and Pujari, D. (1999), A factor analytic study of the sources of meaning in hedonic
consumption, European Journal of Marketing, Vol. 33 Nos 3/4, pp. 273-294.
Kaigler-Walker, K. and Ericksen, M.K. (1989), General values as related to clothing values
of Mexican-American women, Hispanic Journal of Behavioral Sciences, Vol. 11 No. 2,
pp. 156-167.
Kropp, F., Lavack, A.M. and Silvera, D.H. (2005), Values and collective self-esteem as predictors
of consumer susceptibility to interpersonal influence among university students,
International Marketing Review, Vol. 22 No. 1, pp. 7-33.
Laird, L.e. Jr (1974), Self concept, ideal self concept, and consumer purchase intentions,
Journal of Consumer Research, Vol. 1 No. 2, pp. 44-51.
Litvin Stephen, W. and Kar, G.H. (2003), Individualism/collectivism as a moderating factor
to the self-image congruity concept, Journal of Vacation Marketing, Vol. 10 No. 1,
pp. 23-32.
Lloyd Alison, E. and Sherriff, T.K.L. (2010), The Devil Wears Prada or Zara: a revelation into
customer perceived value of luxury and mass fashion brands, Journal of Global Fashion
Marketing, Vol. 1 No. 3, pp. 129-141.
Phau, I. and Lo, C.-C. (2004), Profiling fashion innovators: a study of self-concept, impulse
buying and internet purchase intent, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management,
Vol. 8 No. 4, pp. 399-411.
Schouten, J.W. (1991), Selves in transition: symbolic consumption in personal rites of
passage and identity reconstruction, Journal of Consumer Research, Vol. 17 No. 4,
pp. 412-425.
Sirgy, M.J, Johar, J.S., Samli, A.C. and Claiborne, C.B. (1991), Self-congruity versus functional
congruity: predictors of consumer behavior, Academy of Marketing Science. Journal,
Vol. 19 No. 4, pp. 363-374.
Spreng, R.A., MacKenzie, S.B. and Olshavsky, R.W. (1996), A reexamination of
the determinants of consumer satisfaction, The Journal of Marketing, Vol. 60 No. 3,
pp. 15-32.
Walker, B.A. and Olson, J.C. (1991), Means-end chains: connecting products with self , Journal
of Business Research, Vol. 22 No. 2, pp. 111-118.
Downloaded by ACADEMIA DE STUDII ECONOMICE DIN BUCURESTI At 04:19 25 November 2014 (PT)
Uncovering
Victorias Secret
485