ABSTRACT
Creasing is a very complex phenomenon dealing with combined action of several forces like bending, flexing,
tensile etc. It an aesthetic property and has direct bearing with the constituent yarn/fibers of which it is composed of and
could also be direction dependent. Application of finishes is an important part of any textile manufacturing but is likely to
affect the crease recovery property as it tends to fill up the empty spaces inside the fabric matrix. Nevertheless finishes
have to be applied to the fabrics to improve their performance/feel/any related property. In that case it becomes necessary
to study, not only its influence on the recovery behavior but also on other properties like bending, draping, permeability or
whichever property is expected to be affected. Just as recovery behavior of yarns is important and is time dependent same
is true for fabrics. This work reports the crease recovery of fabrics in their dry state taken at different time intervals.
The greater is the recovery; greater is its resistance to crease formation. Design-expert software has been used to develop
a model to predict crease recovery angle (CRA) for different recovery times and fabric weight per unit area. Significant
model could be developed with these variables and equations developed can be used to obtain the recovery angles at
desired time interval (0 to 60 seconds), GSM (67 to 246) and for warp/weft.
KEYWORDS: Fabric Samples, Crease Recovery, Crease Recovery Angle, Modeling, Recovery Time
INTRODUCTION
The ability of fabrics to resist the formation of crease or wrinkle when lightly squeezed is termed as crease
resistance of the fabric and is associated with the fabric stiffness [1]. Cotton though is comfortable to wear; its CRA is
very poor and hence is aesthetically unappealing. Cotton fabrics are most prone to crease formation since their ability to
recover from the applied deformation is the least and has been explained in the mechanism of crease formation [1]. It is
known that the synthetic yarns/fibers have greater resilience and are springy in nature, obviously resulting in greater CRA
up to 150-155. Wool is the most resilient natural fiber and its expected CRA is around 140-145. Various methods are
available to improve the dry and wet crease recovery of cotton fabrics. Several researchers have reported the influence of
different treatments on fabric and many other have studied the recovery property in wet as well as dry conditions along
with mathematical models. Studies have been carried out on the influence of reactive printing on the dry crease recovery
with the intention of reducing the energy consumption in the finishing process [2]. The influence of hybrid super elastic
shape memory alloy wires to improve wrinkle resistance of flax fabric was studied for four different hybrid yarns [3] but
was found to have no significant relation with its bending properties.
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EPI
80
60
72
96
100
PPI
66
44
44
48
46
GSM
66.71
111.75
156.46
201.25
245.912
METHODS
The crease recovery of the fabrics was tested using the Shirley crease recovery tester shown figure 1and the value
reported in this instrument was crease recovery angle (CRA).
Direction
warp
Weft
warp
weft
warp
weft
warp
weft
warp
weft
2
3
4
5
0
114
107
128
107
127
121
124
128
137
131
Time in Seconds
20
40
60
117
119
120
112
116
119
128 128.5 135
108
112 113.5
131
133
134
128
129
130
124.5 125.5 125.5
130
136
138
139
144
147
134
138
141
Greater the number of threads in the given strip, greater will be their resistance to being bent, which is done while
putting crease into the fabric sample. Such samples when allowed to recovery will encourage the threads to come back to
their original position though complete recovery may not observed. It also true that the CRA finally reached is a function
of the constituent yarns and the fibers from which they are composed of but here an attempt has been made to model the
crease recovery angle measured at different time intervals with the weight per unit area of fabric samples.
Design-Expert Software
Factor Coding: Actual
CRA wp (degree)
Design points above predicted value
Design points below predicted value
150
X1 = B: time
X2 = C: C
107
140
150
Actual Factor
A: gsm = 156.5
C R A w p (d e g re e )
P re d ic te d
140
130
120
130
120
110
110
100
100
60
40
100
110
120
130
140
150
B: time (seconds)
warp
20
0
weft
C: C
Actual
The figure 2 shows that most of the points lie very close to the line implying that it is a close fitting model.
Response surface technique has been used to obtain the quadratic model for the fabric variables and figure 3 shows 3-D
plot of the variables namely the crease recovery, time intervals at which the recovery is measured for warp or weft.
Analysis of variance for the same has been tabulated in table 3.
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5.82
125.96
4.62
2479.75
R-Squared
Adj R-Squared
Pred R-Squared
Adeq Precision
0.7693
0.6979
0.5974
11.707
The "Pred R-Squared" of 0.5974 is in reasonable agreement with the "Adj R-Squared" of 0.6979; i.e. the
difference is less than 0.2. This shows good correlation between the variables chosen for this model. "Adeq Precision"
measures the signal to noise ratio. A ratio greater than 4 is desirable while the obtained ratio is 11.707 that indicates an
adequate signal. The error values calculated for different terms have been tabulated in table 5.
Table 5: Error Calculation of the Developed Model
Term
Intercept
A-gsm
B[1]
B[2]
B[3]
C-C
AB[1]
AB[2]
AB[3]
AC
B[1]C
B[2]C
B[3]C
A^2
Impact Factor (JCC): 2.9594
Coefficient
Estimate
130.28
9.19
-4.75
-2.04
2.32
-2.23
-0.47
-1.47
1.06
2.35
-0.55
0.30
0.089
-6.72
df
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Standard
Error
1.42
0.97
1.35
1.35
1.35
0.78
1.68
1.68
1.68
0.97
1.35
1.35
1.35
1.85
95% CI
Low
127.41
7.24
-7.47
-4.75
-0.40
-3.80
-3.86
-4.86
-2.33
0.39
-3.27
-2.41
-2.63
-10.46
95% CI
High
133.15
11.15
-2.03
0.68
5.04
-0.66
2.92
1.92
4.44
4.30
2.16
3.02
2.81
-2.98
VIF
1.00
1.00
1.00
1.00
Equation 1 is a generalized equation to calculate the Crease Recovery Angle (CRA) for different time intervals
and that too for a given fabric GSM. Now if data related to warp is substituted in Eq.1 then CRA in warp direction can be
found while if data related to weft is substituted then CRA for weft can be obtained.
CRA=+130.28+9.19*A-4.75*B[1]-2.04B[2]+2.32*B[3]-2.23*C-0.47*AB[1]- .47*AB[2]+1.06*AB[3]+2.35*AC0.55*B[1]C+0.30*B[2]+0.089*B[3]-6.72*A2, Eq. 1
Where A stands for GSM, B stands for time interval, [1], [2] and [3] stands for time interval of 20 seconds,
40 seconds and 60 seconds, C stands for warp or weft. The equation in terms of coded factors can be used to make
predictions about the response for given levels of each factor. By default, the high levels of the factors are coded as +1 and
the low levels of the factors are coded as -1. The coded equation is useful for identifying the relative impact of the factors
by comparing the factor coefficients. The equation in terms of actual factors can be used to make predictions about the
response for given levels of each factor. Here, the levels should be specified in the original units for each factor.
This equation should not be used to determine the relative impact of each factor because the coefficients are scaled to
accommodate the units of each factor and the intercept is not at the center of the design space. The CRA values for warp
can be calculated for given values of GSM and this can be done for any of the time interval chosen from Eq. 2 to 9 as
shown in Appendix 1.
CONCLUSIONS
The crease recovery angle is an important fabric property and can be associated with the aesthetic property of
fabric. Fabrics are available in different weights measured per unit area. This model developed will be useful to find the
CRA of fabric in the given weight/unit area range without having to use the instrument. This work may be extended further
to study the behavior when the fabric is in wet condition.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The authors are greatful to S. A. Agrawal and T. A. Desai for helping in experimetal and computational work.
REFERENCES
1.
Technology of textile finishing Dr. V. A. Shenai and Dr. N. M. Saraf, Second edition 1995
2.
Reactive printing and crease resistance finishing of cotton fabrics Part I Study of influential factors by an
experimental design approach Fareha Asim and Muzaffar Mahmood, Journal of textile and apparel, management
and technology, Vol. 7, issue 1, spring 2011, pp 1-10
3.
Wrinkle Recovery of Flax Fabrics with Embedded Super elastic Shape Memory Alloys Wires, Simona Vasile,
Izabela Luiza Ciesielska-Wrbel, Lieva Van Langenhove, Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 2012; 20, 4(93):
56-61.
APPENDICES
APPENDIX-1
CRA(warp,0 sec) = 96.63179+0.33371*GSM-8.386E-004*GSM2
Eq. 2
Eq. 3
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Eq. 4
Eq. 5
Eq. 6
Eq. 7
Eq. 8
Eq. 9