AR1 0~~
Manipula tin --~ Fabric
Colette Wolff
The Art of
Manipulating
Fabric
Colette Wolff
~ lir~mse
~ publicntions
7f)() 1., ~IUIC S
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the
pubh,her
Eduor> Robboc l.mning. Rc".1hc Cooke
Producuon Ro,,thc took<
Book dc .. gn: Ro,,tl)'ll C.u,on
Cover dcs<gn Amhon) jocobson
l'h01ogrophy Mcchacl Kagan
Line
;JTI:
C'olcuc Wolff
646.2--ddO
9632201
CIP
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"-llrn\\dl
l~llllhn
\'o:-hurg Hal1
'F,t.Jnic StwmgGtti,ft. by
Sh;w(fer
"
Cmd) Cummin>
S." & Scrg, Terrific Tocrurcs. by Jacke
Dodson and Jan Saunders
Sergcd Garments m Mrnutcs. by Tamm)
Young and Naomr Saker
Vlumatf Sal(p Answer Guide, by
Naomi Baker. Gail Brown and Cindy
Kacynsk1
RIBBON ART
Glorious Rlbbons. by Christ.ine
Kmgdom
Morr Rrbbon Embro1dtl) by .\fachmc. by
\1anc Duncan and Betty Farrell
Qut(k and Edsy \\'ays mrh Ribbon, by
Cen Johnson
Rrbbon f:mbrordrry by Machme. br
Mane Ounc;tn and Beuy Farrell
Sea<Oncd Crtatlon,, by Marie Duncan
and Bell)' Farrell
Sec ret\ of Ft~<luomng Rrbbon Flowas, by
llclcn Glbb
QVIUING
All Qutlt Blc~ bar.- \ot Square, by
!Xbrot Wagner
Bnt-f.tn.-d O.")l."<'". U>IIC<llon Quttk
_.,..,.. Qur/1<, by Amends Top
r>.:~rgnn>
Cor~lmpor~)
P;nnu;~
Crt~tlw
Qutlri!.g TtU""f.US, by
C.anns
B Uwrn
Patch,.~rk.
by \lary
Clar< Cl.uk
Mogt< of Cr"'y QuriMg. by Mama
\hchler
NCI\ Work of Our Hands. h) Mac
R<xkland Tupa
Pmhwn l'lcd Qrulrs u.srng rht
found<uron Mtthod. b) Jane Hall and
i)rxre ll.iywood
ADDITIOML TOPICS
( 1.1fh ( l,lllln~ \\ llh f'I,"Wr> ,&
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n,-...,d,,th, -
t'-lhn.1km~ w11h
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1\,-.>1,\lm~
J<'wclrv- K1ds
1\>tlrn
1'.11"-'1' (ra[\s
Acknowledgments
lv
Contents
ACKNOWLE DG~I ENTS ................. i v
FOIIUWORD ..................................vi
PRI: I'ACI! ... .. ... ....... ... ... ... ........vii
CRUSHING
PART T HREE
SYSTEMATIC FOLDING
C IIAPTO\ 6 -
PJ.EATING ........ 89
Plca1 ll.1sics
fla1 Plca1s
Paralal Pleats
PrOJCCiing l'leats
Accordion Pleats
Wnnkled Pleating
Double-Controlled PleaiS
hall:m Smocking
PA Rl
Two
Chapter 3
-
Ruffic Basics
Gathered Single-Edged Ruffic
GaLhcrcd Double-Edged Ruffic
Plc:11cd Single- or DoublcEdg.:d Ruffle
Chapt er 4
-
Circular flounce
Controlled flounce
Chapter 5
- MAKING G ODETS ............ 81
Godet
Chapter 12
-
D:m lktsics
Single-Pornted Dart
Double-Pointed Oar!
PART Stx
M IXED MA,' \IPUl.i\ TlONS
Chap lcr 13
-
Technique Variations
Crc:ttivc Con1binations
PA RT FOUR
Fll.LED RELIEFS
Hand Stnches
Gloss.1ry
Seleced Blbhograph)
CosiUmC Exlubitions
Endnote
I NDEX .......................... .... .. ..304
/.
Foreword
erh'l" youre f.llluh.u wnh
the volume of lcucr. !><tween
""w ell l'cr\..m,, the f,lnlOU'
Scnbncr' cduor .md ,urh author.
as I Scott fuzger.1lcl ancllcrnc't
Hemmgw.w rm thmkml\ of pub
hshmg a 'mular one for the lcuc"
and phone calb between me .u>d
Colenc Wolff on thb lx>ok
nn
thrtt.dllll('ll\1011:11 f.tb l l\
rmltl'-
VI
"A ll ll hnM,I"
"''Ill'' 1-thll>l
Robbit
Ftmnin!t
Preface
m."'
informa1ion I
vii
fabnc
A tedmrquc ''P''"d to tht
wcrght .<nd phahrht) of tht
unhlc.rd~<d llltl\hll tl'l'd 111 th"
hook m,t)' IX" wrttnl( fm tht J.rh11r
111 ynur h.md I hl'll
)<1111
fothnc c.ould tl.lll,fnrm ,1 ll'c.h
o,cuJitthlfiH "tl>t't ml OJ
you t ould m.ln.tgt' .UI Ullti,U,,I
"""' llllt'lllkdl
"*""
fiiC{Ul' lUlU
vui
n~ut-.~
Skill.
Sewmg craftsman~h1p ~fleets tit(
mstallanon of a ttchmquc for
bttter or worst !VIt>haP'
inevitably occur. but whn th~
do. don't gwe up. Booboos ar<
mnovauons m dtsgmse.
\ktween the techmquc>. undtr
neath the descnp\ton>. and around
the procedures descnbed in thi<
hook, there are devmnons and
Controlled
Crushing
PART
GATHERIN
1 Gathering
GATHERING BASICS .................. 3
Gathering Mcthods ..................3
Hand Gathenng ...................... 3
Machine Gathering ..................4
Star ......................................
f:lting ...................................... 8
OPPOSITE-EDG E
GATHERING ............................ 16
Procedures ................................ 16
:-Jotcs & Variations ..~ ....... ...... 16
Draped opposite-edge
gathering ............................16
Puffed opposite-edge
gathering ............................ 16
Skewed opposite-edge
gnthering ............................ 16
Curved opposite-edge
gat hering .... ........................ 16
Circular opposite-edge
gathering ............................17
Stops ...................................... 9
FuiTO\Vi ng ..................................9
Draped single-edge
gathering ............................ ! 0
Contoured >inglc-cdgc
gathering ............................ 10
Sta) cd single-edge
gathcrmg ............................ !!
Tiered single-edge
gathering ..........................!!
G ATHERING
B ASICS
G ATHERING M ETHODS
F.g 11.
Equa/ly
spaced mn-
ning sfjrches,
paroally
garhered.
l tll'lt:C.
fron1 ser:e; the dis1anrc between minifolds; <he sLilch in hack sets Lhc
depth. Sew 111 least rwo, preferably
Ll1ree, par.lllcl rows of identically
spaced and vcrlically nligned stitches
acros> the fabtics cdg. Push the fa""
ric 1111 the Llu eads imo L;ghtl)'
JXcked, unifom1 folds Lhat collapse
10 one side in naucnd layers when
Lhc gaugc!(3thercd edge is seamed to
another piece of fabric (Fig. l--1).
(for an addilional g:mged gathering
Lcchniquc, rcfer to "Buncd Cartridge
Pleats" 011 p.~gc 107.)
running sti lches. The resulling minifolds. nent and mo1c c:~sily comrollcd
than those formed on plain hand
gaLhering. n11 n hand as wide liS the
combmed rows of stitching, usuaUr
sp:O<td Y" (6nnn) or less a pan
(Fig. 1-3). Gauging is a vari.1Lion of
regular h.1nd g:uhering used when
C.\tra\'2j\3nt fullness is Lhe goal and a
loug length of fabric must be gathered
10 a VCI)' shortm~;burc mcnL Ooluging
stitches nrc une,cn----shon on the
1iglll side and long on rhc wrong side
of the mmcrial. The Sl itch in
rows of zigzag
stitching encas9
one gathering
cord caught with
stirchos where
each row srarts.
- ------m-- --. .
_ ------------~
..........
_:__
(a)
(b)
F.g.
bllim.l.
Elastic gathering wit h clastic
thread , d :tstic cord, or clastic bands
adds st rctchahlll ry to 'lutomatic
full ness. (l) Strnigh t s titching with
elastk thread In the bo bbin gathers
the fab ric softl y: Wind the elastic
around the hohbin b) hand, stretching it >light!); while stitching, hold
the fabric taut before and behind
the needle. {2) The fullness created
by t'Ord clastic caught inside a
Chapter I
GATHER ING
ci~
cnttoor
-""'"' ~ lm.:th
!he &bot ,.,th
-:f=ac. p:b<r; if !he ci:L<bl->c lcns:rh d ur~~ Fig 1-9
1-a!>rk """
be gath<red on
dame bbatai mto a cl=md o f
bbric
.1...,
-. __ .......... ______.
- ...
(d)
~========::::=::::::==::::::1
'
'
aGIDODDDB
..1...-----,-- -- ------H
'
STABILIZING G ATHERED
STITCHING
Su>bilizing fixes hand und
machine gath<ring. It ends chc
shifting of gathers on the thread.
prevents the gathering th rcnd fro m
snapping, and conceals the gather
ing stitches.
Stabilizing mar be 'isil>lr-a
hlndil>g, extension , foundation stay,
o r ufncd edge, o r i11visiiJit~a stay
o r facing. Where t hey connect. the
stabilizing fabnc matches the gathered stitching in lcngtl1 and shape,
nnd the stabil izing fab ric udds o ne
or more Inver-;
by
10
a fabric :.drcady
thickened
bunched gathers.
During the stabilizing process, the
gathering .rhches d isappear from
s igh t.
GATHERING BASICS
(a)
(a)
(b)
Fig. 1-13. Sewing a gathered inser
lion into a cutout In a foundation stay
with (8) edges/itching and (b) blind
stitching. Edgeslitching emp hasizes
the outline of the cutout; for more
emphasis, satin stitch over the
edge stitch ing.
(a)
(b)
( b)
(c)
Fig. 1 11 . Binding a gathered edge:
(b)
Fig. 1-14. Gathered applique options:
(a) Blindstltch an edge gathered on
machine stitching. (b) Flute an edge
gathered on hand stitching.
Chapter I
GAT HERIN G
(a)
10 the
nhd remove the
(a)
F'19. 116. (a) Pattie/ facing stabilizing a gathered edge. (b) Gathered
edge of a fabric circle surched to a
target-siz8d facing before (c) turning
right side out through a slash in the
facing. The gathered circle rolls at
the edge and inflates.
GATHERING BASICS
(c)
m.
\\'1~.
F URROWING
With tin)' tacking stitches
furro"1ng creatc, a controlled
relief of meandering. suirling
grooves and crests from the fabric
that balloons between all-sidesgathered edges appliqued to a foundation StO)' The tacks sian widely
spaced and get closer and closer,
alwn)'S reducing the innmcd fabric
left bctwcel1 previous tacks, adding
more tidges 10 1he d,cloping maze.
ots
0 11
(a)
(b)
SrNGLE-EDGE
GATHERING
-one side of a piece of fabric
reduced to a smaller measurement
when crushed onto pulled thread
stitching. elastic. or over channelled
elements. Below the gathered edge.
the loose fabric drops and spreads in
graceful. unstructured folds to a
flooting lower edge.
PROCEDURES
1. Decide how much fuUne.ss the
r~hrlc below the gathered edge
<hould displar-<light. moder
ate. generous, abundant. Set an
aftcrgatherlng target measurement for the gathered edge. To
csumatc the length of uogath
cred fabric needed to produce
the desired full ness in the gath -
silghtluliness
moder.ne iullness
generous luliness
abundant lullness
(targetJ
(tnrgeq
(largetJ
Jtarget]
x
x
x
x
1~
2
3
4 (+more)
target measurement.
10
Tho Art
o(
FI!J. I -20. Singleedge gathering variations: (a) FOlds released from adja
centedqe gathering drape.
(b) Straight, gathered edge stabilized
at an angle. (c) Straight, galhered
edge stabilized to cutve. (d) Straight,
gathered edge stabilized in a flat cir
cle becomes e ruffle.
Stabilizing n straight , gathe red
edge to clip in a curve stretches
folds Olll o f the 0onting tdgC, more
so as the dcplh or the curve increa.ses. unless (1) the fabric Is le ngth y
and weighty enough to hung
straight down from the gathering.
or ( 2) rhe \\~dtnlng silhouette of
che floating edge 1S considered in
advance (see (c) in Fig. L-20).
Instead of the gathered-edge target
measurement, u~ the silhouette of
the noacing edge us the target
measurement to estimate the
length of ungathcrcd fabric needed
to produce t he desired fullness i n
a floatin g edAe hanging from con-
I()
tern ~nd add the desired fullnessa! crgJlhering to the target edge.
~ (omtl-.:ting the separated strips
(a)
(a)
"'"h 1m~. re-draw the outline,. htch becomes the pattern for the
>bnc to be gatltered. Variation:
"J>r<ad the strips more at the hottom thon t he top to add Oare to
the folds released from the gathered
edge ( Fig. 1-2 1). Add a seam
.tltownncc tO the fi nal pattern.
. .- -IS
8
-~ ~-!!. ~ ~ ~
/~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
/~ ~
(b)
( b)
r ::::~s::: t:: ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~ ~~~~~~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
. "'"PC"S
(c)
dcx.~nt
(c)
Chapter I
GATHER IN G
II
SINGLE-EDGE GATHERING
( c)
12
..
'
SINGLE-EDGE GATHERING
1-5
edges Oj 0
Chapter I
GATHERING
13
~ruo o MM ., o
SINGLE-EDGE GATHERING
14
~9-T/rte llers. eoch &<'fT.-./ (t/4 than rho I>C< <lbooe, ...ctOOSe ~
"'tumterence of lhe flooong edge extro,r~gam!y '"lhout bulky galh<)rs
1!1.~kerong
SINGLE-EDGE GATHERING
retches
I 11- Stnps w1~1 one edge ser '""' a ''""'or cutout before tijihtly
Choptcr I
GATH ERI NG
IS
OPPOSITE-EDGE
GATHERING
'
~ ----
PROCEDURES
-=
-- -
!o;;:. ~
-:::;;:
--
.--:;;
Fig. 125.
Opposite-edge
gathering beforo
stabilizing to a
shorter stay-
~...,
sections immedi~
16
ately opposite.
(a)
around n cencrnl axis, th3t dimin"h a> they radiate toward the
pancrns.
Chapter I
G ATHERING
17
I-I 2-lvlusl"' garhered on and Slfocclltd berw~n <lowels ~nsenod 111to hems
1-13-Musl:r. garhcrod on and dmped between dowels
tf"'sened into he.-riS.
1-15- MusJrn pottemed w)/h o c!esogn Chat conrroscs smoolh (abnc w:rh
rhe dime.'lSIOIJOf, dfteCIJonol (ofcls o( auromctica!Jy .arherad ~rlsPrts.
..
OPPOSITE-EDGE GATHERING
'
'
Clle {oundar1or?
Chapcer I
GATHERING
19
1.20
""if''
OPPOSITE-EDGE GATHERING
purttd
of b"','ow1ng mus/ln-, rhe ocher molded cJno seorrHet Chef o tOI.Inde<4 sobo J4t'1Tl
20
ALL-SIDES
GATHERING
-a fabric shape condensed Into a
smaller version of itself when its
PROCEDURES
I. Sd ectl:trgtl shapes \\i lh <lmplc,
uncomplica1cd o ullmes. To drnh
an all sidesgalhtr<-d p.111cm for
a l>rgCI, enlarge 1hr 1arge1
1em by an equal amoun1 all
around 10 aUow for puffing. A> a
broad rulc-of lhumh. cslhnalc a
heigh! for the inOa~ed fullncs>
and enlarge b) u1at amoun1 (see
Fig. l -31). Dh<idc 1hc curved
CdJ!.CS of the gatherm)\ pallcrn
imo halves and quancr>. mnrk
ing the divisions wit h notches.
Divide long straight cdgco in a
NOTES
or
& VARlATIONS
(b)
or
Chapter I
GATH ERING
21
(b)
22
ALL-SI D ES GATHER.IN G
Fig. 138. To
applique a
yo-yo: (a) Stitch
through the
turned seam
allowance, S6w
to the foundation
fabric around tho
inner circle, and
gather. (b) Flute
the edge while
stabilizing the
gathers.
Chapter I
GAT HERING
23
(left)
OM Jhal
puffs
ALL-SIDES GATHERING
Except (or C/1o CW<r ofpuffs UIO:<d 11> tile sut(oce dl )/Otl>erod
peces ...,,.. S!o)'ed before assembly.
24
ALL-SIDES GATHERING
Chapt er I
GATH ERIN G
15
1-31
l'letred '"''"
~g.
26
T he Art
or
AL L -S I DES
GATHERING
"''rh
Exueme en\Jrge.
outsk!e lhe oppli<jve su"hrng outi<nes Pl&llded the
swolling iobnc (or (IJflowirlg
1-36---Appliqu~ and fUrrowed yo-yos.
m~nc
Chapter I
GATHERING
27
S HI R
2
SIIIRRING ....................................29
Procedures ................................ 29
Not~s & Variations ....... ........... 30
Mock smocking .................... 31
Elas1ic shirring ...................... 31
Am~m~lically ga1hered
shirrmg ..............................31
warne or cross shirring ........31
Puffed s hirring ......................32
Omped shirring ..... ... .... ........32
Skewed shirring ....... ............. 32
Channel shirring ....................J 2
Shirring
SHIRRING
- fabric contracted to a smaller size
when gathered on multiple rows of
stitching sewn straight across the
designated area in parallel rows.
PROCEDURES
I. Set an after-shirring target
measurement for the s hirred
fnhric tn match . Decide how
menL~
4.
:o
rng,
o n a targeLgauge.
prcpar~
Chapter 2
SHI RRING
29
Fig. 2-2. On Ute left, gathered stitchIng that stops attlte fabric's edge
secured with bobbin-and-needlethread knots and a vertical fine of
machine stitching that crosses each
knot. On the rigltt, gathered stitching
that stops within the fabric secured
with bobbin-and-needle-thread knots
and a vertical pin tuck that catches
each knot inside the tuck seam.
(a)
shining is undesirable. use a temporary stay and stabilize with narrow libbon or tapes stitched over
each gathered r<lw ( Fig. 2-5). For
shirring gathr:rcd on Sl\l(dy Siring
or cords, stabilizing is optional.
""""..
(b)
(a)
(b)
30
to
the otiu:r on
SHIRRING
l
5ulnli:ing prevents the gatherthreads from breaking and also
CURS the dismbution of the
hers. WiLh a sray undcrntath,
"lnchmg over each gaLhered
"' locks rhe arrangemem in
pl.tce, next besr- hidden Lacking
"Jtches spaced out along each row.
When rows of gathered Slhching
ue topslitched to a permanem or
anporary stay with decorative
l.tlld or machine stitching.
,bming is sometimes called moch
...,oc:king {fig. 2-4 and refer 10
\lock Smocking on page 133).
If all the stitched I'OwS arc gathcrtd to Ute same cargct me~sure
mem, a recrangle of f<\bric s hirrs
mto a smaller recranglc ur a square.
But tf each row is gathered looser
than the previous seam, the seams
.,ll CUrYe, the Sides of lhC Shirred
f.Jbric at the ends of the Stitching
,.,ll fan outward, ond rhe densuy of
the connecting folds will gmduolly
dm1inish. Rows of s rlrchlng spaced
uound a long scrip of fnlll'ic with
ends seamed together nmy be gar hcrcd wil h unequal dens II y 10 con en rhe cirdc of fabric into a wheel
,.,th radiating folds conrrolled bv
concentric seamlines, or rhc circie
or fabric can be gathered over a
ng.d form into n domed shape
(refer 10 "circular opposite-edge
gathering" on page 17). Shirred fabric acquires stiffncss across 1he
scams, a useftll attribute ror struc
turttl applications.
Onc-srcp aulomaric garhering,
no srabilizing, and stretchable
adaptabilil}' are three reasons for
the popularity or elasri< shining.
Machine-gathered wilh clastic
thread in the bobbin or clastic cord
inside zigzagged tunnels, t lnstic
shirring dings and conforms when
stretched over a solid, curvy substructure. (Refer to ''Gathering
Mer hods" on page 5.)
Aulomar.icaUy garlocred sloirrlng
&.
(a)
(c)
the gathcrtng-a high lension combined wilh 1he longesl stitch cause.<
the fullest gathering; shorter stilches
decrease fullness. Test before shirring with the g.1thcring foot. The
lighmess of the gathers. the widrh of
the foot, and the nature of the f.1bric
affect the man.1grnble distance
between rows. Within irs limitations.
auromatic g;nhcring with rhc gathering foor speeds nil kinds o( shirring.
The pockets of puffy. crumpled
fabric I hat spring up between cri<Scrossing rows of gothercd >litebing
characterize wCtffic or avss shining.
Sritched by hand or machme over a
grid of lints marked on the wrong
side or the fabric, !he fabric is gathered in one dirccuon to rhe target
measurement and then the crosss titched lines are gat hcrcd to the ""
get measurement (Fig. 2-6). When
straight stitching by machine. s~;p
the needle O\er previously stitched
TOWS 10 avoid 01<!\"US through the
thread, a catch 1ha1 would impede
the gathering process. Before steam
setting the wnffic slurring. push ou1
and pull up 1he fabric released
belween the rows, stretch and piJl
the em~< of 1he slilchtd rows 10 a
padded bo<rd. steam, and allow to
cool and dry before moving. To stabilize, hand tack a sLay 10 the back
or the shinrlng nl the points where
stitching lines cross.
For pulfctl slolrrlng, the loose folds
between rows or gathered stirching
are elcvared imo a JlUnble of swirling
ridges when adjacent rows arc
Chapter 2
SHIRRING
3I
machine stitching.
(b) Push the gathered rows closer
together and blind
stitch the curving
edges in between
to a foundation.
fabric: (I) Press the scam allowanc~ on the long edges underneath. (2) At measured intervals
spaced out along the length of the
s trip. s titch across the strip and
gather tightly. (3) Reducing the cUscancc between the gathertd in tersections to puff the intervening
falll'ic, blindstitch the folded edges
to a founclnt ion, shaping scalloped
ou t line~ rm<.l securing the gathered
s titching as sewing p i'Octcds
(Fig. 2-8). Shorten the distance
bel Ween i ntersections
to
incre:a(Oe
32
folds.
SHIRRING
SHIRRING
sutchod slwnnK
1--4- Shmng soob!llzed 'Mt/1 topes and broids ll>ot cuer rows of~~~~
ournm(J!JCOI!y golherro w,rh o gothel'l<tg fool To apply rlM bi'Od and zatntr
111 the same opett::t!Of\ mse:t the braid ~nto the need.'e "o!e n the ~rhefllli
foor and brong it ovr bel>nd ti1e foot before srartrng to goth! r the iabnc.
fi-3--V.rnwl pmwcf<s. "f>ch look l'e >eams from d1e (tom.
noody ~rush <he nds of rJ1<! god~ed rows o($!>!Chong, and sepal!l!e the shr~ed s!Kt10n from tho smooth fObr<at rJ1<! ~des.
Ch>pter 2
SHI RR I NG
33
seamlines separovng rhe yarn d>Onne's on the le(t look mccid.'ed compared ro U:e de[ined seamtines on the rJghc- where
the seams are bobbin-cilrcad gathered co match ihe! length
of dre yam over whlch rl-re (obr': is channel-gathered.
SHIRRING
11-7- Srobl. rhid<. (~m tJ>x(}Je creored by gJ>then:,g
!he Slirchfng between ~of snuglY channelled
cob!e cord. To pte-pme for gorheting, cords wetP.
seamed uno douf>Jed (obtic with exlro-s(!Cng
gathering
SHIRRING
by.-.
w !h o ~ (oocA[ter go<.'>emi
.. """ ct.ect"OO.!I>e god"'Efflg {oo1
Chapte r 2
SHI RR ING
35
1M l'l!OChine.
fi.14-Hond ~ woff.e or GO<S s'>:mflg, ~Stltcll<d on on
~ gild cell!~ bel\>eet1
SH I RRING
36
The Art of
Manioul atin~?
Fabri c
1118-A band o(honzontol si>lmng at !/1e lop releases {ullnes; Into the
faboc below.Widely spaced row< o[veruw/
garhercd on nbborn
hlSJdc cl1<lfloels ofz;gzagged !/1read. create howontol folds and dropmg or
!h<! fewer edge. To seaJIC the hem/me s,.mg. !/1e channelled nbboo was
bawucd !0 ana!/1er /eng!/1 of ribbofl tod<ed to !he top O( eOCh C/)(lnol('l,
'""""ll
SHIRRING
Chapter 2
SH IRRING
PATTERN
SHIRRING
-fabric automatically shirred with
the gathering foot following a design
of lines that twist and wm back and
forth as they cross the fabric.
PROCEDURES
1. Plan a repenting pat<em of continuous lines thnt move in
NOTES
&
VARIATIONS
38
PATTER N SH IRRING
stitcbing-"nd-gulhcring proceed.
Variations in the spacing and irrcgularilies in the Slitchmg path produce dhersit)' In the relief of mean
dcr shirring. St!lclt length and ten
sion adjustmentS thai modify the
tigbUtessllightness of the gathering
add more dimen>ion. The foot's
gathering action can be manually
reduced by inhibhing the fabric
from movlttg easi ly toward 1he nee
die. To mcreasc fullness, jam 1he
fabric by holding il down with a
finger as it emerges behind the
gathering foot; after''" inch or so
of fabric build> up In b~ck of the
fool. release It and "'pc:u.
Because of 1he densll)' and complexity of the g;othcrcd >thching.
paucrn and meander-shirred fabrics arc reL111vel) StTong and DU)'
not need protection from streSs and
stTain. but if the shin'lng. because
of the pattern. acqmrcs some elas
ticity. s1abllizlng may be required.
13aste a stay to Lhc shirred fabric
"round Lhc oulsklc nnd iuck il m
intervals tO 1he gathered s1 hching.
1~22-The a"'l'l lines o; !he d-...-.,.,n ooaom J'etd sroJMndPM>r auromaoc IIU<her:ng ((or the pottem sec Ftg. 2 12)
~-21-The CllfV<S of dl
tmg ((
PATTERN SHIRRING
Chapter 2
SH IRRING
39
1~21-The sowtooth
PATTERN SHIRRING
on the fObnc. The sqJ.rares. which have an uneven number ofouromadcally gathered llnes. ar~ completed in d:agot1al sequence.
40
Supplementary
Fullness
U F F L
3 Making Ruffles
RUFFLE BASICS ........................ 43
Edge Finishing for Ruffles ........ 43
Plam Cut... .............................++
Pinked ....................................44
Selvedge ................................44
Fringed ..................................44
Fusing .................................... 44
Doubled Fnbric ......................H
Lining ....................................45
Facing .................................... 45
Oinding .................................. 45
Hand-Rolled Hcm .................. 46
Shell Hem .............................. 46
Double-Polcl Hem ...... ............ 46
Flm Hem ................................47
Satin-Stitched Edgi ng ............ 47
Hairline Edging ....................48
Wired Edge ............................48
lettuce Edge .......................... 49
Wavy Edge ............................ '19
Overlocked Edge .................. 49
Rolled Overlocked Edging .... +9
GATHERED SINGLEEDGED
RUFFLE ....................................49
Procedures ................................+9
:-lotcs & Variations .................. 51
Single-shell ruffle .................. 52
layered single edged ruffles . .52
Puffed single-edged ruffle ......52
GATHERED DOUBLE-EDGED
RUFFLE ....................................SS
Procedures ............................... .55
Notes & Variations ..................55
Sprcad-seam or shirred
ruffle ..................................55
Double-shell ruffle ................ 56
Ruflle designs ........................ 56
M~sscd ruffies ........................56
layered double-edged ruffles 57
Pllffed double-edged ruffle .... 57
Tucl<cd rufne ..........................57
H'Cadcd ruffle ........................ 58
PLEATED SINGLE OR
DOUBLE-E DGED RUFFLE ......62
Procedures ................................62
Notes & Variations ..................()3
Box/inverted pleat ruillc ........ 63
R UFFLE B ASICS
EDGE F INlSlfiNG F OR
R UFFr.ES
Pinked Ed go Finlah
ered).
columns.
RUFFLE BASICS
man.ngeable secLions with pcrpenciic\llar cuts. Stirch wi1h r\ llilrrow zigzag across the base of the
into
applicatio n proceeds.
(b)
(a)
Waste
Allowance
(b)
y'VV
v"
'
tered sdtching line to doub.le tbe rufnc s trip (Fig. 3-4). Edge folds can he
sharply creased or, if the rulllc strip
is cut on Lite bias, unpressed and
soflly rolled. After applica1ion , a
doublcd-andgaihered rufne with
un pressed edge-folds may be puffed
by pulling the layers apan.
--~~====]~
(a)
(b)
(a)
:==~-~(b~)----
(cl r v v v v
(d)
(a)
tv;;;;;
Chapter 3
45
:::::
I e: -- ----...~...... .'~~~~~.f.~~~~~J!~~~~~~.
A
Fig. 3-11.
Machill8
stitched shell
hem shaped by
an overedge
stitch with needle-thread ten
sion increased.
Ruffle
Width
Ruffl e
( b)
Width
Item
(a)
( b)
(b)
( c)
RUFFLE BASICS
(a)
Fig. 3-13.
Hemmer
toot.
( b)
(c)
Fig. 314. One-seam flat hems: (a) Straight-stitched when cut with a pinked
odgli. (b) Zigzag-stitched when the edge is straight-cut. (c) Stitched from the
front wi/fl a twin-needle, and (d) trimmed in back next to the stitches.
( d)
(I)
(c)
(b)
Chapter 3
MAKING RUFFLES
~7
Fig. 3-18.
Ruffle strip
finished
:
(a)
(b)
(C)
and neal.
(e)
Fig. 3-16. Satin-stitcned edgings: (a) Sewn directly over the cur edge. (b) Sewn
over an edge trimmed after zigzag-stitched preparation. (c) Sewn over a folded
edge with the waste a/towance trimmed altar satin stitchtng. (d) Sewn over an
edge turned on 8 staystitched fold with the waste allowance trimmed after satin
stitching. (c) Sewn over a tiny, straight-stitched single-told hem that disappears
under the satin-stitched covering.
Fig. 317.
Medium-towide satinstitched edgings lie flat
when sewn
with an
overedge foot.
Fig. 3-19.
Thin wire
enclosed
inside a
hairline
edging.
48
G ATHERED
SINGLE-EDGED
R UFFLE
-a strip of fabric with one long
edge gathered to a shorter target
measurement and attached to flat
fabric. The opposite edge floats in
irregul>r, serpentine folds.
PROCEDURES
Fig. 3-21.
Over/ocked
stitching finishes
the edge of a
ruffle strip.
(b)
Width
_ ~ot~.'!'~g~Aep~c~u_en_S!!.." _ _ 1_
Soam Allowance
------
49
50
- - - - - --
_____..__
...................
( b)
ftbrlc 2
(c)
Chapter 3
MAKING RUFFLES
51
~-~
........... .. ...
(b)
A single-shell ruffle has a gathering edge shaped in a scallop pattern. Gathering straightens out the
cunes, making the gatltercd
slltthingta;,plication line <traightnnd making the floaling edge scalloped to rcllcct the silhouclle o rigi
nail)' cut into the ga<hering edge
( Fig. 3-32). If a single-shell rufnc
is cut from doubled fabric (refer to
" Edge Fi11ishlng for Rufnes" on
page -14) , the shells can be puffed
after application.
- .- (a)
~.
(c)
~
.
52
- -----
---
(b)
edge. After gathering and application. puU the two iayco:s oft he ruf
fle apart to pouf the body or the
ntffie (Fig. 3 -34). Ruffies less than
!" (2.5tm ) wide frustrate :[forts Ill
scpMating the byers. Doubled u ffles of crisp fabric 2" (Snn) wide o r
more puff with the most buormcy;
doubled ntnlcs of soft, limp fabric
hardly puff at all. Tu stabilize the
puff, tack the spreading rufllc fabric
at intervals to each side of the
application scam. For puffings that
stop where the foundation fabric
end, ga1her around the wbulnr
An application of laycretl singleedged ruffles compound> the decorall"e effect of frilly edge>. Two o r
more ruffles, gathered scparatcl~- to
avoid nestled folds at the gathered
stitching, are smckcd one on Lop of
the oLher with gathered edges
matching, and sewn to the foundation as one. Whether the rufnes are
equal or unequal in widtl1, the
lloating edge of the upper ruffic sits
on top of the folds of the ruffic
below, increasing the total elevation
of the fl(),lt ( Fig. 3-33).
c;cam allo,vancc.
y-----..~-------------7
y,.,
14-1 Ruffle; gu.T.-ci (rom Slllp5 cut 200% longer lhon (/10 !Oige< ~
IS r.,;ce rn. .oo:h cf tile ruffle on lop ond
ap~rs len fU!I. The edge (lrnsh. o s1ngf{oltl ilar ,,em .SCIUn-s~tched <Ncr
!he (oi<J, s~(fens ""' edge and ggnifrcnnrly affects dw qor~JI(y of !he ~=
._,
GATHERED SINGLE-EDGED
!tie WROt (bouom) 400% long!!f. Tl~e p111~d edge finiSh doe.,,,
RUFFLES
Chapter 3
MAKING RUFFlES
53
1/1-4-Norrow rv(fles sewn orovnd etrdes and to each socfe of o curved bJa; stnp
~lOre edgc"'rcl>ed app.<a!IOn The PocMi ecJse; of !he ruff1es botdtnng the
~stnp Of'!' S(C!iopeci(he Otf[f.r
Wo!h o machone sntched snell hem.A ho,rlr.e edgong (.noshes !he fll/res
SVffOO,"l(j
/1~5- !Wws of N(f1 chor.grng (rom SJtojl/~she/1 ruff.es 1111.he cemer. to ruffles thot taper OUl in-.stom
(0 0
ng t.he dJdel,
GATHER ED
SINGLE-EDGED
R.U FFLES
<'hed"-.h (I~ (.or""" The~~~.. U'dirrwtn gotr.e<ed (icm o WIP CUI !/vee 011.s the >get
length. """ (111oshed ""lh o laced scoto:;<!d edge
s..
The Art
or
GATHERED
D OUBLE- E DGED
R UFFLE
-
1:>011
PROCEDURES
I Choose an appropriate and effec
ove finish for the floating edges
_ _ - - - - - - -
- -
-- -
---
- --
---
---
_ 1 _
Waste
Allowance
(if n eeded)
Flnl&hed
R uffle
t___ _
Width
__o..?'!':'~~~~~t~~~g-s..?:m__ __ _
Finished
Ruffle
Width
- -
NOTES
&
VARIATIO NS
Waste
- - -
-- - -
Allowance
Fig. 335. Fabric strips cut tor gathered doubleedged ruffles must include mea
surements fo r finished ruffle widths on either side of the centered seamllne,
with measurements added to each floating edge if and as required for the cho
sen edge finish.
Chapte r 3
MAKING RUFFLES
55
..-.._
Fig. 3-39. Narrow. doubleedged ruffle scrolled in a repeating wave
design.
(b)
56
tc Fig. 3-H).
(a)
(b)
Fjg. 3-47.
Tucked ruffle
(a) afler galhtHing; (b) with
its side ruffles
separated
and pinned to
a foundation
prior to eppfi
calion.
SLtched golhering.
I"'"
----------------------------
(d)
or
3-45. Two ways to end a dOubleedped ruffle: (a) Teper the end of the
F'~g.
strip (b) before gathering. (c) After gathering, join the ends of lhe side ruffles
(d) and fan down to foundation level.
_ _ _ ___ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ - 1 -
\Vasto Allowance
(If noodod}
Finletted Side
Rullle Width
~
--- --- -----------------1--
Gathering Soam
Center Aufflo
Width
.S.
- - -- - - - -- -- -- -- - - f - "
Canter Autllo
Width
__
___ ____________ ____ t ____
_
Oethering Seam
~
Finfahcd Side
Ruffle Width
SHmO;:HtmAttOwan~!!.!f M'c.dedi - - - - -
-- - - -- - - -
Waate Allowance
- - =t- - - --, ~~ (llnttdtd)
Chapter 3
MAKING RU FFLES
57
'""""i
Jll-8
SS
1/1-9- Ruffles. fimsh~d wrlh halrlkle edging. opplted rn rows with edges touchi<Jg
(low massed N(fles).
1o-(lt/1)
r..o tONS of
fiom eoc:h
cttw:r. (n2hr) ~ some rv(.
'ies o.pplted In 10'-"'$ so
tho! cqo.
cent ed~ ore {olr.O<J
<4M<Jid (l>jlh mouod rv(
close~
GATHERED
DOUBLE-EDGED
RUFFLES
31" (2an)
swched dpubfe.(olo
hems: wolh hoorllne ecfg.
ong; w1ff> one ed~ ponked
rJr>d one edge selvedRe:
wnh ravelled (r/OJie
Chapte r 3
MAK IN G RU FF LES
lan~et tilon twoce rile "''ll~t lon~tll. (1~(1 to rojlht) Horlnc edged rufllc
60
1/J J5- Unoacochc-rl ruffles ga!hercd 1ntc long. #e>~ble, {lufft cyl n
ders on seams zigzagged atcr suil1g. Far each cyfu1der. tvtO rufile
slftps il1a1 111plcd !he torgct lcngrh we"' galhe,.d m 011e.
111-17-Hcaded ruflle with 0 band orsnmmg sepa'Utl11g d>e neadon~ (rom de rut
11e. The edges .veto {lmsned woth s!!'O.ghtSUtchec:( dooble;olcl hems.
Il-l b-S<Ie n;ftie> ; \.'l " (II Scm) M<Ie jl<Jiled OC>..r>~<1'11 by~ weogltt o{tJ>t rrll45n
111-18-Splot headed ruffle. The gaihered seam allowances o( tile ru/Pcs and the
edgesiJ!Ched wpe with the~r bulk.
Chapter 3
61
P ROCEDURES
pl c;~ti ng arrangement
for the rufllc (Fig. 349). Decide
wheeher the folds will be pressed
or unprc;.scd.
2. Select an edge finish tbat \\;II affect
chc folds at the float agreenbl): or. if
the pleats ore to be pressed an
edge finish chat will a<:ccpt sbatp
cn."lStS (refer co "Edge Finishing
for Ruffies" on page -13).
1 . Choose a
Knife Pleats
Box Pleats
Inverted Pleats
( Top Row Unpressed; Bottom Row Prossed)
......... ---
-- r r- ........ -
62
'r-'
r __
..,..__-__-_-_,_-__- -_,
F ab r l~;
Chapter 3
63
PLEATED SINGLE-EDGED
RUFFLE
64
WJ!h
Ill 26- EI<>boro<e ruffle bw1t q,er a llcodod rofl!c '""( pleated on
nte
Ch pter 3
65
LOUNC
4 Making Flounces
C IRCULAR FLOUNCE .............. 67
Procedures ................................ 67
Notes & Variations ..................70
Spiralcut circular flounce .... 71
Layered circular flounce ........ 72
FLOUNCE
-a circle of fabric with a round
cutout in the center. split open.
straightened out, and seamed to
another piece of fabric along its
inner, sho~est edge. The longo>st
edge floats in waves and folds.
1. A refresher vocabulary:
Circumference- th e distance
around a circle.
PROCEDURES
Procedures ................................ 77
Layered .................. ................ 78
C IRCULAR
Fig. 41 ..Circle divided into three rings of equal depth to demonstrat9 th9 r9la
tionship between the //are at the floating edge and tile radius of the circular
curve that becomes the straightened edge of the flounce.
Chapter 4
67
(a)
Fi nished Edge
Of Flounce
"'
Fig. 43.
(a, b, c) Using
a string compass and a
ruler to draft a
circular flounce
pattern.
(c)
3. To draft a circular flounce patlC.t'tl, establish two measurements, one for the radius of the
centra] circle and a sc.cond for
the depth of tbe flo u nce:
a. Draw the central dn:le using a
compass set to the radius meas urement ((a) in Fig. 4-3).
Adding a measurement for
flounce depth w the radius,
resel I he compass ilnd draw a
second circle outside the ftrsL
((b) i11 F ig. 4-3).
x 3.14 (I
68
Sid e
Opening
Sea m
Allowances
Fig. 4-4. Alter calculating !he number o/ circular flounce pattern pieces a particular application will need, use the diameter of the flounce pattern to plan a
cutting arrangement, and figure how much fabric will be required.
CI RCULAR FLOUNCE
..
0
0
0
cirtles to cut
:'
:
.!
0
0
'0
.'
I
I'
:'
I'
'
'0
''
'
''
(c)
(b)
'0
1
(d)
(e)
( f)
Chapter 4
MAKING FLOUNCES
69
Inside n stam-Matching
edges. baste the Oounce, rigln
side up. to the right side of fabric =I. Whh right sides togemcr. pin bbric ::2 o,er both and
sew through all layers next to
me lx1Sting seam; or lap me
turned edge of fabric " 2 o,er
the scr1m :ollowancc o( the
Oouncc and edgestitch through
all layers (Fig. 4-8) .
I\
- .i 'I .. -- -- i--..----I\
Fabric 2
Fig. 49. (a) Alter machine-basting the flounce over lhe underlying fabric. {b)
encase the edges inside a blnd'mg. (c) Pin a fao'ng over a flounce basted to a
Iabrie extension, sew through aR layers. (d) tum 1he facing 10 the back, and
sllpslilch 10 1116 fabric.
Fabric 11
Fabric #2
abric #1
70
(c)
Fabric M1
NOTES
&
V ARIAT IONS
finishing an edge that contin uousl}' curvc.s :tnd changes grain i.s a
challengc. When selecting an edge
!UU>h. consider ease of application,
compcnibilh)' with the characteristics
of the fobrk, and how the finish \\ill
mflucnce rhe quality of the float
n:fcr to "Edge Finihing for RuJDes"
on page -+3). If both sides of the
flounce "ill be visible when applied.
ll1c appe.1rancc of the back of an edge
Ftg. 4- 12.
Ccntrast the
effect on the floating edge when
the same circular
flounce is applied
(a) in a straight
line, (b) to an
inside curve, (c)
to an outside
curve.
F~g.
Chapter 4
MAKING FLOUNCES
71
.- . ....
~-
....
-. ',
-..
(a)
(c)
*'
~~ Se\ Vll to
and SWl.\)'
There arc two kind> of !icrcd cfr
arlnr jlourru applications. (I) Rows
of flounce ars_ applied to a foundntion with the floatiug edge of the
72
CIRCULA R FLOUNCE
'n"
r.ouoc
CIRCULAR FLOUNCE
ri/3--Cm from
c,fdes w;m a I ..
(2.5cm) mner rorl1u!l.
a flounce tl:ar
Spte<Jd$ lri(O dCCfA
lux<A:JUS (0/ds bol
~r~red wrfh o dot.'b'<:!
(old hem.
Chapter 4
MAKING FLOUNCES
73
CIRCULAR FLOUNCE
74
r -
IV-6-l'NO sp1rol~ut Poonces 2 (Scm) deep. 'M!h a ''IVOI/ECd edge (on>sh. SIJI(Ound
from maxi-
CIRCULAR FLOUNCE
IV-7---fou< OO<II>e-Edged
Chapter 4
75
IV.a-&o,alt appl;coooo
(Old Item.
Cl RCU LAR
FLOUNCE
76
CONTROLLED
F LOUNCE
PROCEDURES
I. Cue a target pattern chat dupli
cares 1h< size and shape of the
nren the llountc will cover when
Its npphecl. If one s ide of the
art:a is a mirror imagc or the
ocher side. or if the same contour repeats many times, make a
panern chat includes one compiece scgmcnc of the repeat
(Fig. -+-17}.
4
2. Decide whee her deep folds. modcmce w"es, or slight ripples will
be 11ppropria1e for che floating
edge of the flounce to be developed from the target pauern:
a. li t che location of each fold.
W(WC, or ripple planned for
rhc lloating edge, pencil a
line on the cut-out rarget pattern <hac conncciS the floaclllg edge to the sea.mline and
ind1caces the hang of the fold
((a) in Figs. -+-18, 4-19, and
-+-20).
I ~Il!l
(d)
Fig. 4-19. (8) Target pattern with lines indicating fold locations, (b) slashed and
unequally spread. (c) Final pattern with stitching line, clipping, and graintine
notations. (d) Controlled flounce made from the pal/ern.
Chapter 4
MAKING FLOUNCES
77
(a)
'
.--.. ,-------:
...
78
......~/
NOTES
&
VAR IATIONS
CONTROLLED FLOUNCE
CONTROL L ED FLO U NC E
Chapter 4
79
DET
5 Making Godets
GOOET ........................................81
Procedures ................................ 8 1
"'o tes & Variauons ..................83
Handkcn:hid edge ................83
Mock god<I. ........................... B-1
GoDET
(pronounced go-day'}-a section of
a circle set into a seam or a slash
within a piece of fabric to expand
the floating edge at that place. A
godet develops rolling waves or folds
as it spreads.
P ROCEDURES
I . For each godet. select a point
inside the pattern or the fabric
where the godct will bcgiJl its
spread. The d istance fro m poina
to lower edge equals the length
tl1c godct, and includes a hem
r~llowancc.
''
''
1he
or
'
''
to
or
' '
Fig. 51. (a) Stashllne, or (b) seam opening. into which {c) this segment of a cir
cle, /he godet. \VIII fit. (d) Godet pattern with stitching line, godet point, and
straightgraln markings.
Chapter 5
MAKING GODETS
91
Fig. 5 2.
(a) One side of
s godet pinned
into sn opened
seam (b) and
stitched.
(c) The inserted
godet with
seam
allowances
pressed.
l mo a godct-lcngth slash.
82
GODET
NOTES
~-
--,
Fig. 5-3.
1,
- __
I
1-...J-1'--
(c)
(b)
(a)
(a) Reinforcing
square basted, and
{b) opening machinestitched (c) before
Slashing and puHing
the square to the
back. (d) Pinning
and basting the
seamline beside the
slash to tile godet
seamline on one
side. (e) The inserted
godet with seam
allowances pressed.
&
VARCATIONS
{d)
(e)
(b)
Chapter S
MAKING GODETS
83
..
,'
'
I I
' 't
o
o
\I
'
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
'
'
'-'(b)
(a)
l n~enion
in :'1 s lnc;h is
I 0
"I '0
''
''
mon.~
'' '
',
''
''
''
',
.-.~
;
''
''
''
''
,....
.' ..
. '
'
''
'
''
''
''
''
op611ing.
84
The Art
or
Manipulating Fab r ic
GO DET
"'''m;
... "' "'""' ROIJCIS TWo ;hM1, lfiOflgu.'a RodelS [lank a tall. hal{
~ode '
GODETS
Chapter 5
MAKING GODETS
85
GODETS
VS-Quor.cr-otde godet
wnh 0 I1XJtJded Ill> "'se<ted
86
Systematic
Folding
PL EAT I
6 Pleating
PLEAT BASICS ............................89
Pressing Pleats ................... ... 89
I lemming Flat ami Panial
Pleats ............... ...................90
FLAT PLEATS
Knife Pleats Box Pleats
hwcned Pleats ............ ..........91
Procedures ..................... .. .....!1 1
\lotcs &: Vari3tions ................93
Kih plents .......... .......... ......93
Pleat topstitching ........... ... 9~
Doubled or tripled
pleating ..........................94
Underlays .. ........................94
Perfect Plc:uer ....................94
PARTIAL PLEATS
l!xlcnsion l'leal!i
Set-In Plc:tts .......................... 98
Procedures ............................98
N01es &: Variation$ ................99
PROJECTING PLEATS
Doubled Box Pleats
Single Box Pleats
t hree-Fo ld ~nd Four-Fold
Pinch (French) Pleats
Rollback Pinch Pleats
Pipe Organ Pleats
Rollback C:mridgc Plea1s
Cartridge Pleats ................ .... I03
Procedures for box, pinch.
pipe orgun, and rollback
carrridgc pleats .. ............ ..... . 103
I\mes &: VariatiOil> .............. 106
ACCORDION PLEATS
ll;lnd-formed Accordio n
Pleats
Mini-Accordion Pleating ...... Ill
l'roccdurc;; for hand
fo m>ed accordion pleats .. I II
Notes &: Variations .. .......... .. ll2
Procedures fo r miniaccordion pleati ng .......... .. ll 2
Notes &: Variations ........... ... 113
WRINKLED PLEATING
Droomstlck Pleating
Contortion Pleating ............ 115
Procedures .... .......... ... ....... ..115
Notes &: Variatio ns .......... .... 116
DOUBLE-CONTROLLED
PLEATS .... ............ ..... ... ....... ... 118
PRESSING PLEATS
PLEAT BASICS
PLEAT BASICS
89
f f _[ I r--Ff
.I
Knife
Flat Pleats
Box
I (t
I
Inverted
------
Single Box
--
1--
\ 17
\ 17
Doubled Box
Three-Fold Pinch
'f
Four-Fold Pinch
Projecting
Pleats
Rollback Pinch
v-wr
IF
'
~~
Plpo Organ
~ (\@ ~
Rollback
Cartridge
Cartridge
"1
- !
~;;-.j '
Accordion Pleats
Broomstick Pleats
90
PL~AT
BASICS
been pressure-and-steam-creased,
rum the fabric to the other side and
repeat the process.
for extra setting power. dip the
press cloth into a solution of one
part whhc v;ncgar lo nine parts
water. Usc two press cloths, one
under the pleat.' and one on mp.
To complete an application of
unpru5ed pleats. tug the folds into
an equalized arrangement while
hanging. or arrange the folds while
pinning the edges to a padded
board, <lab pinning imertor folds, if
neetSSM)'. Sctde the arrangement by
steaming with an iron or steamer
moved slowly above the surface of
1he fabric. f\ llow to cool and dry
before moving.
H E,.,IMING FLA.T
&
PARTIAL P LEATS
When pleating lengthy fabric,
the scams that join two pieces of
fabric :ore always s ituated unobmt
sivel)\ Unks> the application and
plem ing arrangcmem make it
unavoidable. never locate joining
scam~ on an outer fold. When
forming n:u pleats. place joining
scams on mncr folds. or centered
behind an lmerted pleat.
(o)
FLAT PLEATS
(a) -
- - . . . L_
'
:
rl
j Placemon1
- . . L_ _ _ _ _:::::""{,..._Lino
._outer
Fold
(b)
PROCEDURES
1. Set a target measurement for the
fabric to match after it is pleated.
(c)
To cope with t he fo ld s o f
edge>tit checl pleacs when hemming
the floatm!\ edge: (1) llcm the fab
ric fma. then edgcstitch the pleats.
(2) Stop edgestildting at least I"
( 2.5cm) above the upper lc\CI o f
the finbhecl hem. Hem the plents.
f inish the cdgcsti tching. beginning
\Vith the needle in the last of the
pr<>'ious cdgestitchcs. Leave about
3" (7 .Smm) of thread at the lo"u
edge o f the hem and uc the bobbin
and ne-edle threads together 10
secure t he stitching. Insert hoth
threau end> into a needle; at the
final stitch, p ush the needle inside
the hem fold and bring it nut halfits-length awar before cuuing the
threads.
Folu and !(team press 1he lw nmed
pleat edge. allowing the fabric to cool
and dry before ruo,ing.
b. The mathematics:
10
the
2 x pteat depth
one pleal undetlold
Chapter 6
PLEATING
;;;-~
;'
i
i
(b)
(a)
(c)
Fig. 6-4. (a) Two box pleats with outer and inner folds edges/itched.
(b) Inverted pleat with release point lowered visibly with edgestilching.
(c) Knife pleats with release points lowered invisibly.
1
I
I
J
I
I
(a)
.___.,.I
I
I
92
(b)
~.,:._-
I
I
I
I
I
I
.....__..
I
I
I
I
I
I
.__:.,o-f-
Fig. 6-5. Removable pleat markings: (a) For knife pleats- unbroken chalk lines
lor outer folds, broken lines lor placement lines. (b) For inverted pleats- long
basting stitches for fold lines, short stitches lor shared placement lines.
FLAT PL EAT S
1, 1,T, I
II
I'
II
I,
It
I
I
II ll
I, I
I
1! I
I II I
II
II II
l,
I,
II
I lI l ;_11
(a)
I..___.
..
d,
tI l
I
I
I
I
Jl ,
Il
l II
I I
ArmngemcniS of Oat pleaiS fcarttre 1he repetitive, ordetl) organization of parallel folds 1bat open
when dis wrbcd. Variatio ns in plea!
depth, in the spadng between
pleats, and in the combining of
knife, box, and inverted pleats are
(b)
I
I
1
= I
tI
t Il
't\
I. J
I I
r-
I
I
I
I
(c)
Fig. 6-6. Forming pleats on the back of the fabric: (a) Knife pleats with fold and
pla cement lines basted together. (b) lnverled pleat centered and pinned after
(c) bas ling the fold lines together and lowering lhe release poinl wilh machine
stitching.
I
I
I
I
I
'
'
i i
I I I
I I I
I
I
I I
I
I I
I I
-'
_I,
'
"
i i
I I
I I
I I
I I
I I
I I
_c
~:
Release
.
'''
Edgestitch ing
Point
'-
y::. . . . . .
arrangements.
Gronpings of knife pleaiS may
be turned ln opposite directions.
Sometimes at11hori1ics define knife
pleats as pleats lis'' (!.Scm) deep
facing in the same direction. and
pleaiS with a depth greater than
W' (1 .5cm) as side pleaK Kilt
ple<1ts arc deep k nife pleats with
undcrfolds that o verlap .
12. Hanel or machine. sew a singlefold Oat hem into the Ooating
edge (refer to "Hemming Flat
and Parlial Plea1s" o n page 90).
Press again. Bind the top edge of
the pleated fabric, or scam it LO
an extension (refer to "Stabilizing
Gathered Stitching" on page 6
for applicable directions) .
Chapter 6
PLEATING
93
. /. ,.. -, ........
.. ... . -- -- ... .
, . '\ _, .. /,. ... ,/ ', ,'
~
' '
graduat ing their size with the smallest on top (Fig. 6-10). Doubled or
tripled pleating adds the bulk of
man)' fabric larers to the top edge.
,, ' ,
.
....
.
"
....
' '
.... ,' .., .... , ', ... ,' ..... _,,. ...
'-.., ,/
,'
,'
,'
/'
'
..:
:
!
I'
.:i'
.
... .
.:
'
.:.
!
;
'
:'
:
'
.
!
ir-l
.'
'
:'
.'
..:
.
0
l0
~~
91
FLAT PLEATS
FLAT PLEATS
'"'I"""
Chaptor 6
PLEATING
95
FLAT PLEATS
96
tJ>c
fOlds trom Side !0 Side "' 0
JOgged. ''"'gular tnannct
FLAT PLEATS
Chaptor 6
PLEAT ING
97
PARTIAL PLEATS
- flat pleatS that open below the
top of the fabric with underfold layering removed above the release
points.There are cwo kinds of partial
pleats:
EXTENSION PLEATS
Set-in 11leats:
(I) Draft a pa11ern for the shape
10 be cut out rom the fabric.
( 2) f'o ld a length o[ paper,
slightly lo nger and much wider
than the cuto ut shape, into an
arrangement of knife. box, or
invened ple:~ts. (3) Posiuon the
cu to u t over the folded pleats;
nace and cut on the outline.
Open and pencil folding guidelines on the pleat insen panem
(Fig. 6-1-1). A'oid locJtmg pleat
underfolds too d ose to the sides
of the c ut<llll when trueing its
shape on the folded pleats.
continue as seams.
SET-IN PLEATS
PROCEDURES
I . Draft pattt'rns for the pleat sections:
Knife or box extension pleats:
Establish the following measurements to use when dcvcJoping
Rolease
Point
Poin t
Speco
Between
Pleat
Depth
Pleats
""
Longth
Of
Pleat
Pleat
Depth
Pleat Pleat
Dtpth Depth
Underlay
(b)
Frg. 6-13. {a) Pattern lor a partial-pleat section. The side extensions are knifeor box-pleat underfotds. (b) Pattern lor an inverted pleat underlay that duplicates a side extension, doubled. Add seam allowances ro final patterns.
98
' - - -..J
Cutout
(b)
:Pleat!
Pleat
=-
: I f- j
I
Pleat ! .Pleat;
~:1._f
I
Pleat Insertion
( 1) Cut as
Release
Frg. 6-14.
(a) Cutout ro
be filled with a
pleated insorlion. (b) Pattern
lor/he pleated
insertion, cut
from folded
paper, thai will
be set Into the
cutout. Add
seam allowances to final
patterns.
(a)
PART IA L PLEATS
"'"'......
,..., / '
,.
Fig. 6-15.
Extension pleat
sections seamad
together, tumad
tofotma box
pleat on the left
and a knife pleat
on the right
!'
!
i
!
! .
..
n.,t.
Set-in pleats:
(I) With a fabric-safe marker,
/
..
..~
!
;
''
!
i
!
Fig. 6-16. Underlay seemad between
two adjoining pleat extensions with
Inver/ad pleat folds centered In front.
NOTES
& VARIATIONS
Chapter 6
PLEATING
99
---...- - ..-- - -
rile sampfe
we~
100
..
'4
'J
f
:a.
t
l
"'
PART l A L PLEATS
..,_,,
The back of
me
Chapter 6
PLEATING
101
VI I 3-
PART I AL P LEATS
.,
VI/ ~1\vo
I 02
PROJECTING
PLEATS
-folds lifted from the surface of the
'>bnc and struCtured at the top. or
"ad. onto rolled arrangements that
5Qnd out from the Iabrie itself.
Below the pleated. self-finished head.nz, the fabric falls in deep. regular,
rounded folds to the floating edge.
PROCEDURES FOR
pectlng pleats:
~d
"'1 folds.
SINGLE BOX PLEATS
Box,
x number of pleats
total ple~ t allowance
target measurement
+ total pleatallowance
Esllmatod Fabric Requirement
Chapter 6
allowances:
a. Make a doubled pleat hca,ling
by tut11inJl lhe top of the fabric to the back; press. The
pleat he:lcling sho uld he at
least hnlf-thc-ple:u-allowance
deep. If needed to brace the
StniClllrc of the particular
pleat. Stiffen the heading "~th
mtcrfacmg.
PLEATI NG
103
Pleal
Allowance
Pleal
Ploat
Allowance
Allowance
"'~\::::,::o~::r.~:f"" : ;:~;:::lee
(a)
Depth
Pleats
Pleats
Primary Seam
base of the plc.tl where the primal)' ~eam ends, or tack the wtdtrfolds to the fabric behind ";th
invisible stitches (F~g. 6-22).
I
(b)
r., i
''
t Primary~
Saom
(a)
#i
Secondary
Seam
or
104
Tho Ar t of
Manl p ~ lati ng
l Primary l
; Seam I'"""
:
l )
Secondary
PlnSoam
(a)
(b)
(d)
Fig. 6-23. To form a three-fold pinch pleat: (a) Establish a pin-seam. (b) Re-fold
Into three pleats and remove the pins. (c) Topslitch across tho base of the
pleating, or (d) hand tack at the x position.
Fabric
PROJECTING PLEATS
Primary
Pleat
Fold
X
(a)
Second
Creases
(b)
(c)
(d)
Ftg. 624. To form 8 /our-fold pinch pleat: (a) Center and flatten the pleat fold.
Crease at the sides. (b) Turn the side cresses Inside to the primary seam,
making four pleats. (c) Topstitchacross 1/Je base of the pleating, or (d) hand
tack at the x position.
'
~ Primary
Seam
I
I
__..-I
Secondary
PinSeam
(a)
I
(b)
Fig. 6-25. To form a rollback pinch pleat: (8) Establish a pin-seam. (b) Re-fold
Into three unequal ploats, and remove the pins. (c) Tack all pleats at the x
position and (d) tack the side folds to tho primary seam at the base of the pleat.
'
Pri mary
Seam
(a)
i~dary
PlnSeam
(b)
Slip
Slip
Stitch
SUtch
(c)
Fig. 6-27. To form a rollback cat1ridge pleat: (B) Establish a secondary p/n
sesm, and (b) stand the pleat whl7e re-fOlding the upper pleat sHowance.
(c) Remove the pins, rolf the surface pleat around to the heading, and
sflpstitch the outer folds beside the primary seam.
Chapter 6
PLEATING
lOS
5.
N OTES
& VARIATIONS
106
3.
4.
PROCEDURES FOR
C ARTRIDGE P LEATS
(For Rollback Canrldge Pleats. refer
to "Procedures on page 103.)
I. Set target mca.surcmcot for the
fabric to match after it is pleated.
Cut a strip of paper as long as
the L..1rgcLmeasurement! or scale
1he t~rgeL measurement dowrl on
graph paper. Divide it into
spaces which li mit the width of
each cart ridge plc2t after smtcruri ng. separated by spaces
bc1wcen the pleats.
2. C.1lculate the amount of fabric
required for the number of car
tridge pleats planned for tbe targel measure:ment:
PROJECT IN G PLEATS
5.
6.
Cl
Space
Botweon
Pleats
\ i :
l\l
.J..f L
.ll'!
::
I
l
.L 1
l 1
Heading
Depth
(b)
I
1
I
-'
I I
(c)
:VOTES
&
VARIATIONS
or
(a)
(b)
(c)
Standard
Continuous
Butted
decorative.
Chaptor 6
PLEAT ING
107
abtJ~e
PROJECTING PLEA T S
108
....
I
'
'
'
't
I
,_
PROJECTING PLEATS
Vl-23- Sof! carrndge pleots sewn co a sray VISJble bch1rld lhe dro[Jed
ammgemcnr o( folds lha1 head cacl> p!eo~
Chaprr 6
PLEAT ING
109
PROJECTING
PLEATS
VI Z.i-!Mled cnrmd~
'a (lan) tNck
01 rite Slltd>ed edRe shu..-;
plcov.~
tile~~
choocter.soc o( U.S
tri()/J!od 0{ OlrocilmmL
II 0
ACCORDION
P LEATS
- fabric folded altemately in and out
with even spaces between the parallel folds, creating projecting pleats
th3t resemble the bellows of an
accordion in action and appearance.
There arc two kinds of accordion
pleats:
....... j ......... ~.- ....... ~. . .... .
HAND-FORMED ACCORDION
PLEATS
(a)
MINI-ACCORDION PLEATING
..
Align
reases
on a smocking pleater.
PROCEDURES FOR
HAND-FORMED
ACCORDION P LEATS
(For Mini-accordion l'lenrlng, refer
to page 112.)
I Set a target m~urcmenr for the
fabric 10 match after il Is pleated.
Pick a pleat depth wider than 1>1
(1.3cm).
2 eo, er all o r a ponion of the target measurement with a st rip of
paper folded ahemnrcly In and
o ut, equating the dis tance
bctwcc.n folds to plc"l depth.
Spread the pleats equally ..s much
as desired. Measure lite test strip,
and estimate the amount of fabric
required for the pleaung nccordmgly. Add the OCSS.11)' length.
pillS allowances for a heading
tumback and hem, to th< width
required for the plc:~ting. Cut 1be
fabric.
3. I lead the top of the fabric with a
turnbatk and hem the lower
edge of the fabric.
Fig. 633.
Accordion-pleating a length of
fabric: (a) Press
the first creases
in the same
direction over a
paper strip that
trues the creas
es. (b) Matching
adjacent creases, press the
second folds In
between.
(b)
fold~
Slcum
Chopter 6
PLEATING
Ill
II
F.g. 6-34. Accordionp/eat spread
ccntrolled at the top when back
creases are topstitched to a stay.
NOTES
&
VARIATIONS
- l- -
'
112
ACCORDION PlEATS
...!,.
__ _
Fig. 6-36.
Machine-stitchIng a hem into
fabric spread
out after mini
accordion pleat
lng on a smockIng pleater. The
Iabrie will be ropleated after
hemming.
b.
NOTES
& VARIATIONS
Chapter 6
PLEATING
113
ACCORDION PLEATS
2& I ~\~ I{ aa aU
rtla ~ r55 #;
I
"
I,
li
:'
Ii
I
114
T~c Art
WRINKLED
PLEATING
-irregular ridges and grooves set by
bunching and scrunching damp fab
ric. securing it tightly, and letting it
dry. There are two types or wrinkled
pleating:
PROCEDURES
L. Sew~' narr()w hem huo one or
is invohed.
Optional preparation:
Stretching and bunching, roll
the damp. gathered fabric
around itself. Shove it imo 1he
leg or a nylon stocking and
bind m close intervals with
nylon >~ocking snips or cord.
A minute al a time in a
Broomstick ple:ning:
n. Gather the opposite sides of
tltc fabric with large running
sntches. pushing the gathers
together tightly. Very wide.
lengthy fabTic may need lllle
rior rows of gathering :tS well.
b. Wet UlC fabric thorough!): wring
u out, and rollin towelling to
;~boorb c.xcess moistun:.
C hapter 6
PL EATI NG
II S
10
'"Mini-ao;:or
NOTES
& VARIATIONS
wrinkles.
116
WRINKLED PLEATING
WRINKLED PLEATING
'/1.30 Conrornon"pleoted
sqoate o( muslrn
Chapte r 6
PL EATIN G
117
DOU BLECONTROLLED
P LEATS
-pleats confined at both ends. with
folds loose In the center. The stabi
lized pleat arrangements can be
turned In any direction.
PROCEDURES
l. Select a pleat type that sui!$ the
118
1he.se \"3ri31ion.\.
DOUBLE-CON TROLLED
PLEATS
V~JJ.-i<Jl(l> pfecrs
;u~ a< !xJU. ends look
Chapter 6
PL EATI NG
119
V/-34
DOUBLE-CONTROLLED PLEATS
120
...,.Jb-~mentS
D OU BLE-CONTROL L ED PLEATS
Vl-37
ThfH.(old p.nch
Chapter 6
PLEATING
121
D 0 U B LE-CO N TROLLED
PLEATS
1000
122
squares. and
DOUBLE-CONTROLLED
PLEATS
111 J- f>leall {ormecl 011 a Per(ea f>leoW bocke<i w1(h Iron-on IMler
squares. and assemblecll"'r:cl!worksryle m1o o block.
rwo of the squa1t:s. the (o.'d o( occh plea' snagged by o sr rch,
'''" P<J'oe<l bocl< ond to~W ro troe bose of the ploct boh.od.
'0001) cu1 mlo
---
..-.....- r
~ -
s.
Z?
:_
-=
'1143-Neea.eiormecl p/e<IIIOI/Iho<
laol<s l.ke warer nppled by a breeze.
Chapter 6
PLEAT ING
123
--
...
...
MOCKIN
7 Smocking
SMOCKING BASICS ................125
Fabric Required for
Smocking.......................... l25 Using a Smocking Pleater ... . 126
Smocking Embrotdtry
Stitches ..... ....................... 127
O utline ............................ 127
Mock chain ...................... 127
Cable ................................ 127
Do uble cable ............ ........ 127
Wuvc ............ .......... .......... 127
Trellis ...................... .......... 127
Diamond ............... ........... 127
Ho neyco mb ...................... 127
Surface ho nc)comb .......... 128
Vand yke ...... ..... ................. 128
Feather ......... ................... 128
Spoo1 ................................ 128
Cable Flo wcrcucs ............ 128
Managing the SmockingPleated Edge .................... 128
S MOCKING B ASICS
F ABRIC REQUIRED
FOR
SMOCKING
radilional wisdom advises
three to fo ur times the target
width o r the smocking as a
basis fo r cstinlilting the amo unt or
fabric required fo r a smocki ng t>roject. That's a fairly reliable !,'Uide for
thin fab ric prepared fo r Englis h
smocking on a plcatcr o r huml
pleated on do t-picku p sti tches
spaced '!.!'' (6 mm) apart. but inadeq uate when o ther facw rs npply.
125
x. target measurement
Fabric Requtrement
126
USING A SMOCKING
P LEATER
Mmt-accordion pleating is the
foumL1uon for English smocking.
$mocker> have a choice: form the
plea" on rows of gauged hand
stilchrs or use a smocking pleater. a
nifty. handopcra~ed appliance thai
pleats )'Ords of fab ric quickly and
easil)'.
Ph-a1crs have gears thm me.sh
tugether when 1urned. and a long.
s tmigh t row of delicate needles 1hal
51 itch I hrend through t he pleats
forn1ed h)' 1he gears. llasic operation is simple. Thread 1he needles
\\;lh ewing 1hrcad abou1 4"
( I Orm) longer than the length of
1hc fabnc to be plea1ed. Tape the
ends of 1he thread 10 the surface in
lrolll of the plca1cr. ,\ftcr trimming
1he >clvcdges. roll the fabric around
a dowel. Jnsen tl1e dowd inside the
cndpl:ue openings on the plcater.
Stand ing behind 1he plcatcr. mm
tht: handle
10
move
Lhe
fnbric
througlt the gears and o nto 1he need les. When the neNiles fill up with
pleats, Jlll1h the pleuis gcmly onto
the threads. Continue un1il all the
fabric has been plcalcd and pushed
on1o the 1hrcads. CUI the threads
nextlo 1hc needles 10 free the pleated fabric.
Smocking plca~ers produce uniform mini-accordion plca1s. a1 Jcas1
Vo" (3mm) deep, tha1 vaf)' fraction
ally between three-plus to four-plus
pleat for every inch o f fabric,
depending on the manufacturer
of 1he piCIItcr. Also depend ing on
1he manufac turer, the fabric wid t h
n plealcr tu.:ct:pts varies from 5 Yl'~
(Hem) to 11" (30.5cm) . A second
run through the pieater doubles the
wlchh o f the fabric that cao be
pleated. Open and spread the pleated porlion of the fabric on iiS
SMOCKJNG EMBROIDERY
STITCHES
For Engli>h and direct smocking,
embroidery stitches have a funcuonal as well a decoratie purpose.
\Iter the pleating threads have been
removed , the stitches hold the folds
of English smocking together. For
direct smocking. the stitches not
on I) hold the folds together, the)'
crc:ue the folds.
F~g. 77.
Diamond stitch.
(c)
C~apter
SMOCKING
127
F~g.
M ANAGING THE
SMOCKING-PLEATED
EDGE
The mer hod used to finish and
stabilize n smocl<lng-pleated edge
either finuerrs th~ wbes under a
PLEATS
=m
129
SMOCKING BASICS
STANDING PLEATS
llefore smocking the fabric. make a
uny double-fold hem in the edge
next to the final row of stitches.
After smocking. arrange the
hemmed edge over a Oat fabric
extension and tack the groove of
each pleat to the fabric underneath,
continuing the pleat spacing cstab
lishcd by the smocking (Fig. 7- 16).
ENGLISH
SMOCKING
PROCEDURES
iron.
Insert dressmakers carbon
bcoween the fabric and a
paper patlern of the do1s. Use
poino pressure over each doo
to transfer impressions to the
fabric.
(a) ' - - - - - --
- ----'
(b)LWW1
Fig. 7-17. (B) Stencil and (b) sawtoothed template used to mark fabric
with rows of smocking dots.
Chapter 7
SMOCKING
129
- - - -- -+---------- - - - - - -
-==
--
-::::::----------- - - - - .#
------------- - ---
:=----
(a)
___,_._:-_-_.:::::~_:
(a)
- -~
(b)
Ploatlng Profile
(c)
'>
1)/\A/lOOA/"'
VVl/0 vVVV
(d)
Pleating Profile
Ag. 7-18. To prepare dot-marked fabric for pleating, hand sew (a) with dot-pick
up stitching or (c) dot-In dot-out stitching. From identical grids, (b) dot-pickup
produces two times as many shallow tubes as (d) dot-in dot-outwith its deeper
tubes.
4. Hand sew each row of dots with
130
F~bric
ll l
-I
1111 11
ll
--- -- --
II I
l IIl l 111 11
Moe k Chain
b-.
. 1-! -
F;
-I- Surface
Honey comb
Spo ol
-i-'
~-
. ...; -
- -- -- --:;.-
"'
- - - t--
- -
r..- ~ - 1-"
-~-l.~. -
Dia
mo{j
1-T-"F -
c able
-F -
:.: - - -!=
~ ~I'lf - - - - - D., - -
R, -
--
---
- - -'-= -
- - - - -
r-.- -
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - F- -
-- \-
Jt
-
rn- _ .
-1-f-!.-d-1~=114..1-f-1- _ - _ ~+
~ ~ -~tt-f-1- _
~*~~-~~l~H:ot-~~~ - - - - - f~ - - - -e-b:I-.. --'td-'h:t-~l!d-- ~~-:.:;=rJ:!!:l!-
Fig. 720.
Traditional
English smocking pattern with
ornamental
bands devel
oped from com
binerlons of
embroidery
stttches. Note
. - _f-:: -
design.
Chapter 7
SMO CKI NG
131
(a)
- -
- -
- ---
-- - - --- ----.._
- - - - - '
NOTES
- r
& VARIATIONS
Fig. 7-21.
Stitching over
dots marl<ed from
transfer sheets:
(a) Pick up each
dol in a row. (b)
Pick up a dot.
sJ<ip over the
next dot to take a
tiny stitch in the
space between
two dots, skip a
dot to pick up the
next dot, and so
on. Dot-in dot-out
gathering is
another opuon.
berween rows.
132
panem stashed
be/ween the rows
of dots up to the
dots on the top
row. and spread
out equally a/the
cuts to adapt to
curving fabric.
Lf
\
......
\ \ \
(a)
Fig. 7-23.
Experimental doc
grids chat gather into
pleatlngs with unovon
surface textures on
dol-pickup stitching:
(a) Randomly drawn
grid. (b) Unevenly
spaced grid.
(b)
10
Chapter 7
SMOCKING
133
VII 1- ldonoccf lcn2fl's o( (alx1c hand sht.chcd (ollowmg Klenckal dot Qrids: (lop) Sdmple garhercd on dotp>CJ<up sotc/l!ng h~ shotk>w ple<JIS w,u, lhm wbes;
(/Xli(Om) sample gorheo'ed on <lot on <let-out Sl.tc/long
has P'COIS !W/Ct os <I~P wolh broader rubes.
ENGLISH
SMOCKING
wJ aa.s.c Eng'<s/1 ~
wetl<s:d Wlfh tlree-Sirorld .,-!Jro,
dtry f.oss "" a fi>c_.-.doot;n of
mocl! '1<'-p""*'<:ed pleomg
134
VIJ-1 Hooercarnt> smod<.<!g on mac:t>rremode pleabng. cased mro o curve w111t the
help of the pao!M des,gn and steam.
ENGLISH SMOCKING
Ch>pcer 7
SMOCKING
135
ENGLISH SMOCKING
136
V/1-9-&perimenwl.
improvised smockmg
worl<ed on a ground
machine-produCed
plea-.; rexwred wollt
or
a-s
ENGL I SH SMOC K I NG
C hapter 7
SM OC K ING
13 7
DIRECT
SMOCKING
~titchlng. worked
on a grid-based
pattern ol dots. that draws the Iabrie
into structured folds with pulled
thread while creating a decorative
pattern. Direct smocking mimics
English smocking but accomplishes
the effect with one stitching procedure rather thn two.
PROCEDURES
I. Review the procedures for
English smocking that begin on
page 129.
2. On griddcd paper, prepare a dot
pnern to support tbe smocking
embroidery stitches chosen to
Outline
'-lL .:,,
~
J:I
1-t-----.
...
:..._!'~ r
f-
lr
't+'
'11-
;;_
I
-~
1-l--
':"
tc
JIT~
~
.l
Wave
Fig. 7-24.
Direct
smocking
pattern. The
cufVY lines
indicate the
thread direction of the
stitches. Only
the dots are
ma!l<edon
the fabric.
Diamond
t 38
NOTES &VARIATIONS
(a)
(c)
(b)
(d)
Fig. 725. Honeycomb stile/ling interpreted for direct smocking: (a) Pick up dots
2 and I on the needle with two separate, tiny stitches. (b) Draw the dots
toge/ll er on pulled thread. (c) Insert the needle Into the Iabrie at dot2 and bring
It out at dot 3 in the row below. Do not pull dots 2 and 3 together. (d) Pick up
dot 4 and then 3 on the needle and draw dots 4 and 3 together on pulled
thread. Continue moving up or down behveen rows of dots, altematlng between
taut and slack stitches.
tion directs.
5 Pin ll1c finished smocking
around the edges to a padded
surfoce. gently stretching it into
shape. Steam w ith an iron held
above the fab ric, and allow to
cool and dry before mo,-ing.
Chapt er 7
SMOCKING
139
DIRECT SMOCK I NG
140
DIRECT SMOCKING
NORTH AMERICAN
SMOCKING
-a grid-regulAted system of pulled
stitches alternating with slack stitches that invisibly reshapes the fabric
into an intricate composition of
folds.
(a)
3. Following the ><itching path indicated fo1 the pauem, smock row
by t'Ow with stu rdy th read, con
necting pnirs of d ots with pulled
stllches separated by slack, knol
ted stitches (Fig. 7-27). Por the
PROCeDURES
I . Select a paucrn from the diagr:tm$ in r:ig. 7-26. ( Refer to
Fabric Req uired fo r Smocking"
1111 page 125.)
(b)
JE;
~
(c)
. 2'~
A~
/~
(d)
' 1- i_ ,i~i..,_.......i.-i.
- ~
_./ -
----+-
I I I.........-...I
. I- I --
Latllce
L.ozenge
Lotllco Variation #1
2
Lattlco Variation #2
.bJ
c-1: 1- 1: nI
6
.......s-~ --
i7i
n il
---
-
. . . .n
i~l . ..~o
Flower
1.,1
l_
l:=l_ []
Flower Variation
Pulled Stitch
Slack Stitch
Chapter 7
SMOCK ING
141
4. Whh right side up, pin the fi nished smocking around the edges
to a padded surface, su-etching
genLI) while s~n~ightening the
sides. $learn ";th an iron held
just above the smocking. Allow
tO cool and dry before moving.
NORTH AMERICAN
SMOCK I NG
Ylllb-Ait~nacive s!J'Ucwrmg
142
preset1ted by !he
NORTH AMERICAN
SMOCKING
Chapter 7
SMOCKING
143
gQE55=:5555QQ~ QQQQQE55=:
I TALIAN
SMOCKING
== == ~ ~ ~ ~ = ===~~~ ~ = == =~~~
s:
Italian smocking:
CONTOURED ITALIAN
SMOCKING
P ROCEDURES F OR
C ONTOURED I TALIAN
SMOCKING
(a)
~-
--- --- I
i:: i 1 ~~
:_=_ I
'
1 1
1-: I I
___
- - -- -- I I
-~ ~ I: _
I ' -
- ' I -
-I I'
II
II
-
== =
I .
=- - ,. ,. ._.,.. - ... - . . . .
(b)
I
:
I
__
- -- I- I
-
- - i
. ~ . I :: ~ ~ _ l ..
-
- -
. ,. ._ . _
- I . - -
-~--
- -
" -"'
~
' I - ;.
- 1- I - ' - - - ~ 1,...
I I =::' i:;"::l ~' :::: 1 10:-:11:::: _ _ - ~--- ._.-. ~ t.,.....,..,.. -tt"
- . I - - - - t 1 - - - _ ..,
1 I - - 11 '--'
- - I- I -- -- 1 r- - -,
-"'
- ~. -- -- 11
II -- , - -- , ~ - "'
t : - - : l : '' - :: :: - :
_:
. I -
I ' -
=:;
. I - -'
(c)
Fig. 7-29. Throo pallems for contoured flalian smocking. The arrows on the
right indicate where rows of stitching begin. Each short line represents a surface stitch. Stitches move in and out of the spaces between lmes, and they
do not follow a straight path. The large triangles ( ) mark the limits of one
pattem repeat. (Dotted lines are gridline markings, not stitching indications.)
144
- - === =_:
!
==:; .: .: :: .; :; :; :; :; :. : -:
__- -*"
_ ..,
-__ _____ '=" .' t
- -
- -
..! -
ITALIAN SMOCKIN G
PROCEDURES FOR
SHIRRED I TALIA N
SMOCKING
l. Copy one. of the designs in
Fig. 7-30 on gridded paper appropriately scaled for the pleating.
The space. between two dots in a
horizontal row becomes a pleal
fold when the stitch ing is gat.he red .
in a Slc.nci1.
Use an Lshaped ruler to mea~
sure the separatio ns and mark
the dots.
- -
- o--.-..-..- o -o- .
-- ----------------------- - - - - -- ---------
- - - - - :.: 1 1 lo.- - - - - - - - X > - - --- - - - > X X- -- - - - - - >
X .- -- .c---
--->t
"
oc x--- - -- oo;"' ,. lot- - - - -'1(
x x- - - - - x x x
-- >
>
>- - - -)1.
l<
'II
ot
- X
- ---:1(
- - - -)(
Iii
..:-
It
)1'-
---- .
------>
I(
I(
- - -
- X
- X
l"
)II-
- )I( --
x- ----x
x x x-~
--
- -
- - ->< .. .. ----~---.
- -- -- - o: " - - - - -"' - - x - -- - < k <- - K x- - -- - IC
K x------X X x--- JI V
- -- - - - >o:X ---X
'0: II II 1'. - - - - - >o: ll. x X
)I
'It
)( - - - ! (
1'1 )( )(
1(
,.
lil
11 - -K
~- ~
x - - - -K
1(
0(
I(
x -
)(--- ---~
-
- -
>1
- -K
W-k
-- -- ---- -- -- -- ~ -- ---
( a)
..
. --
- - -- - - - - - - -
- --- - - - ----------------- -- - --
--- ------------ --- -------- ---- --------1(
X -----------------
ll---- - - ----- -- - - -
- - -- --k x---------x
-- -----K x--- " - X------- --X-----
----X
- -------X
'II.
l(
-- - X
- -
- lt
lC
x )(
:.e---x
10--- ---
'll
--X X
- - -'1(.
- - -- <
:J(
, _
)(
X -
: . t -)(
)I
' l C -'11.
x ) t -- - - - 'IC
--
l!f-- lC--x xx- xx - -X X X- -x- - x
'll
"
1t ,..__.,. 11.
IC ! ( - - -It It - -x K
- x l'; )( -1( x- -x 1'.
l C -1( X 1C- -x X x -
)II
>
x - - - -> x x- - x
)I(
-- .
- ----------- --
----- ------ -,.__---
------><----.
- - - - -
)(
)C
)(
J(
" ' - - - -
- -
- - - - -- ) (
)(
{b)
- -- --------.- - - -- -------- - ,- - - -- -- -
----- -- -- ------------)It,. - ---- - -------,.
)(
x- -K
- - -)( )( Ji-J(--x )x1-------x--- - - - - --- -->-x
x >--
- - x - - x x- - x x- -
x
.11. x- - x " , . _.
- x "'- x x 11. ~ -.. , _ , _ .
x ,c. ~)( )( w ,c - - "A ,. ,.__,
-
- --
- lt
)(
)(
l ( -l(
J(
)(
~
X
It
)I
)(
)(
X-
)1.
- - - -
. _ . ,_
)C.---)1
1t 11.
-
~t-x
)(
)(
- - -
)( - -
l t - -'11:-- )(
- - - - x x
- :.;
- X
)(
"
<------- -
- --
-- -- ~- -- --')1.
M - --
- - -
x- - x x x- - x x - -
l(
'It
1(
)(
I(
I(
)( - - --
)1(- - x x ><-- -
. x - -- - ----- - - -
--x
- -
- -- - -
- --
"
- -- -- - x x '><- ---- - - -- - - - - -- -x
'II
)(
- - -- - --
11. ~ ----
)I
lt
)(
)t--- -- -- -- -- ~
K-- - - x
>- -- -- -- -- )( )(
-- -----
- -- ---- --------- --
--- )11( 1)(C-J<----- ------- ---------
---
------
-- - --- ><-- -- --
- ---
<
)I
- ----------------------'
- - - - --x x >----- - 1 -. x--- ---
-
- -
- -
- -
'II' lC-
-"
- X
Jl )(
X-
- -
- -
- -
- -
- - -X
>- - )(
)<
~ --
--
(c)
Chapter 7
SMOCKING
145
x:-
---
b. For the second and all interior rows. pick up every other
dot with a tiny stitch, but
(litcmalc the dots picl~ed up for
a(ljtlwtt rows. Carry the nee
die and thread behind each
grouping or x-mar ked dots
(Fig. 7-31).
c. l'ick up each dot in the final
row witb a Liny stitch.
4. Grasping the ends of the lhreads
IWOb)'two, push the fabric into
itsc!C on the stitched thread.
gathering it into lightly massed
ple:us. Gather from one side to the
center, then the other side to
rhe center. To secure the pleating, tie the ends or the threads
together in pairs and rrim.
146
orr.
ITALIAN SM OCKING
secure.
After stitching but before gadhering, sonk or wash out the dot markings for shirred designs and iron
the fabric. Where appropriate to the
application. tic the threads to
secure the gathering- but don't
trim rhe ends. The shirred smocking can be undone for future laundering :ond ironing, and re-pleated
I TAL I AN
SMOCKING
Chptcr 7
SMOCKING
147
CKI
8 Tucking
TUCK BASICS ..........................149
l:ixtondlug the Tucking
Fnhric ..............................149
Srams coinciding whh
tuck, ............................ 1~9
Sc.un.> perpendicular to
tucks ......................... - 150
STANDARD TUCKS
Pin Tuck< Spaced Tucks
Bhnd Tucks
Gmtluatctl Tucks
Centered Tucks
Doubled-and-Centered
Tuck>
Tnpcrl Tucks.. .................... ! 50
l'roccdurcs ...... .. ..... .. ..... ...... 151
Notes & va,iations ........... ... l53
Designer tucks ................ 15~
Cro)s Lucking .................. 154
Random tucldng ..............154
Mock pin tucking ............ 154
CURVED TUCKS ......................160
Procedures ..........................160
Notes & Variarions.. .. .. ........ 160
SHELL TUCKS ........... .. ... .. ........ 162
Procedure> ..........................162
Note> & Variations .............. 162
CONTOU RED TUC KS ..............163
Proced ures .......................... I 63
Notes & Varintio ns .......... ....164
Keyhole tucks ..................164
S:uin-stilched comourcd
tuck, ............................164
SLASHED TUCKS
Shark's T<eth
Smp-fnngcd Tucks .............. l67
Procedures .......................... 167
Note. & Variations .............. l 67
Ruvclll-d-fringe t:ucks ...... 168
T UCK B ASICS
E XTENDING THE
T UCKING FABRIC
TUCK BASICS
149
STANDARD
T UCKS
-parallel folds pulled up from the
surface of the Iabrie and held by
stitching from one end to the other.
Standard tuck seams are straight and
sewn at an equal or slanted distance
from the folded edge through two
layers or fabric. There are seven basic
types or stnndard tucks:
.
.
:
l
PIN TUCKS
i I
(a)
(b)
Fig. 82. (a) Tucking continued across previous seams. (b) Tucking pieced
together after sewing the tucks.
SEAMS PERPENDICULAR
TO TUCKS
After sewing two pieces of fabric
together, fold and sew the tucks
across the joining ~am . u nless
there's a compeiHng reason to Luck
r.m and join later ( Fig. 8 2).
1\tcklng fi rs t and j oining later
chnnge.s 1he vertical tucking pat
tern when both pieces or fabric
were rucked with differem arrangementS. or when mismatching identically tucked pieces is intentional.
Matching idcntic-~Uy tucked pieces
with Onlcky precision has a decorative pu~ when the fabric changes,
or when the int:ru!tion of horizontal
scamUnes is a designer choice.
When finished rucks are pressed
Ont, nttaching an extension to Lhc
I SO
- ..
.......................
..................- ..
- .- ..............
-tucks with two folds made by centering each tuck over its seam.
Fig. 83.
Zigzag top stitching that
a ttaches
tucked fabric
with p roject
ing folds to
an extension.
.................. .
......_.. ..
-~
D OUBLED-A N D-CENTERED
TUCKS
En d of TUCK BASICS
..
iI
''
laroet meuurement
Jwidlh +viSible space]
llumber ol Tucks
II
Pin
lUCk width X 3
Iabrie required lor one tuck
Spacod
x number oltucks
.l
i'
I
I
! !
i
:
!
Blind
-- --- -
x number ollucks
visible space
! i
i I
I
I'
'
ii
tolal visiblespace
Fabric Fltqulremenl
Graduated
--
--
i
i
,~
i
i
i
I
I
II
:
I'
:
I
.
:'
'
I
iI
I i
Formula 1:2:
a. Establish measurements for
the width of a tuck ( the space
between tuck scam and mck
fold) and the seom space
between rwo adjacent tuck
senmlines (Fig. 85).
Tapered
larget measurement
+ saam space
PROCEDURES
I. Estimate the amount offabnc
required for tucking that u;ll
match a target measuremenL
Apply o ne of the follouing
methods:
UNEQUAL DESIGNS
Formula I'll:
a. Establish measurements for
r.he widrh of a tuck ( r.he space
between ruck seam and tuck
fold) and the vislblt spact
between one tuck and the
next ( Fig. 8-5).
number of Tucks
x number or tucks
(btloreloldlng
+ after lolding)
'
:
x tatoet menurement
Fabric Fitquemenl
UNLFORM DESIGNS
For uniform designs. use formula :1 '" formula 112.
r-1 ~!
!.
'
:~
,_
- ~ -o'!?~~p
i:
i:
-:
~:
Chapter 8
Tuck
Width
TUCK ING
151
I
I
I
I
I
I
.-
bl
~Tuck
1
,- 1-,
I
Width
I.,
fabric.
b. Indicate slitching lines in the
ent markongs (another color,
longer basting Slitchcs, or
narrow masking tape beside
each scam li uc). Mark the
stitching line to the lclt of the
fold lln~~thc line visible on
I
I
I
I 52
I
I
I
Fol d Lin e ./
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
~:
Seamlines
......---c-.,
I
I I
I
I
i
I
. I
''
I'
I
I
I
'
li
I
I
.I
!
l ..;
I'
'
I'
I
~
;-
.l..
.i
- :.
.i
1 -
STANDARD T UCKS
--
!'
'
.
.
'
i'
Fig. 8 - 10.
Centered tucks
(a) after seaming; (b) pressed
with fofd lines
centered over
seamlines.
l:
.
l- --- --
+-
(a I
--
---
NOTES
---~---
(b)
& VARIATIONS
For doublcd~and-<:cntcred
tucks, center the fold line o"er
___.,. ___
Seams
"->1
I
I
/'I
Primary
Seam
I
I
1":
Secondary
Seam
(a)
(b)
(c)
Rg 8-11 Doubled-and-centered tucks: (a) After sewing, and (b) press~d "'(ith the
fotd tin11 i:entered over botll seams. (c) Stabilized with decoratfllo topslltchmg.
Chapter 8
TUCKING
153
tucks.
Fig. 8 13, Fabric re-shaped with tucks stitched parallel to me folds, and the
space between folds greater at one edge than the other.
IS~
STANDARD TUCKS
... .......... ._
L:....... '-'
STANDARD TUCKS
Chapter 8
TUCKING
ISS
WI-~J.ond.coweted t..OO ~
wth dose "Bl"l!i"le down the cenre
Vlfl-7- Tapered rud::s \Wth seams that sfan[ In the some 6rcct1011.
STANDARD TUCKS
VIII-9---0osgner W<king
that c:ommsu dusters of
p1n rucks wilh
tucks
'"'*'
I 56
STANDARD TUCKS
Chapter 8
TUCKING
157
STANDARD TUCKS
YJII /5- Freely smelted w:rh o twn nee<d<. mock p;n tucks
a;rve ooa cross and appe<1r ro w<!OVC 0\'tt and under.
I S8
--
r-
.-
II
l-.1
-t
;;
IIi
II
["
i'- ~
81
I'
....
='
~
I .c."
I'
I.
\I~
!ill
......
I
'-.--
~l
---:::e:
.. -
"
~~-_.:.
" '"!'
llJ
._~
ll
"'
I....
i'-
- -~
...,
I.
~~
,~
=
"""
':
I~
I'
...,
-o:. _ _ ___ .-
...
...
'" ;
-~
f:l'
~-
--
-~-
I
t :=.
-,
V//1./7- Tu<kod (abric cut Into swps and reassembled to s~r the
l,nes of the (o.lds.
Chapter 8
TUCK ING
159
C URVED TUCKS
PROCEDURES
I. Review t he procedures for
Sumdurd Tucks th at begin on
page 150.
2. Plan an arrangement orcurved
tuck~ that confo nns to th e circulnr shaping o f the fabric. To
ac.:cotnmodatc tht tucks, add lwo
times the width of each tuck to
the length or radius of the fabric
when cutting. If the fabric is cut
in segmems, scam the segments
together before tuckina
0 '
..
of nn iron.
. . ..... .
. ..... ...
. .. " - ..
______ __...
...
- .. . . . .
.. .
...... :::::;:
..- ....:::. ...
( b)
160
CURV ED TUC KS
CURVED TUCKS
Vili-19- TIe
(lJC~prodoced
Note: Pro<edures
SHELL TUCKS
overed,ge stitch.
Chapter 8
TUCK ING
161
SHELL TUCKS
-<Iarrow tucks with shell-like, scalloped edges shaped with thread carried over the folds at regular intervals and pulled taut. Shell rucks can
be sewn by hand or machine.
PROCEDURES
Fig. 8 -18.
Shell tucking
shaped by
machine with
a light
over edge
stitch.
ltJCI< by hand:
(B) Sew with running
stitches. Stop at a
pre-set point. draw
the needle out in
back and bring it
over the fold to the
front.
(b) Push tho needle
through the base of
the iuck to the back,
and pull the thread
to crumple the tuck.
Bring the needle torward again and
resume sewing to
tho next crush-point.
162
(a)
(b)
SHELL TUCKS
4. Contour Lhc edge> of lhc tucksa. Turning the fabric to lhe bad.
connect the sctssor-nip fold
Fa~
(a)
(b)
a straight line of c:balk. disapJ>l'llring pen, or thread basting. Fold each tuck on the
hne ( the right side of the labric will be ir~ide), pin or
baste, and crease the fold
ligluly with an iron.
Fig. EJ-20.
Contoured-tuck pat
terns: (a & b) With
cutouts separated
by intact portions of
the tuck fold.
(c) Contoured to
reshape /he edge
completely. Patterns
do not include seam
allowances.
(c)
press.
CONTOURED
TUCKS
-spaced or blind tucks wider than
112" ( 1.3cm) with folded edges that
have been reshaped to curve and
angle.
PROCEDURES
I. Re'~~w 1he procedures for
Standard Tucks that begin on
page 150.
3.
Tuck
Seamllna--...:
.-:
!..........
..---------
t... ______
l
Fig. 821. Tuck contoured with seams
stitched on traced outlines. To pre
pare for turning right side out, seg
ments inside seams are removed
and corners clipped.
5. Pin or baste. and 1hen sew each
lUck by machine or by hand, followong 1hc marked seamline.
Chapter 8
TUCKI NG
163
N OTES
&
VARIATIONS
Combine diffcrem contouring pattems. When blind tucks are contoured. note that tuck seamlincs
"~II show unlc,s the amount of
oerlop is tncreascd to compensate
for the dci>Lh of the contouring.
K<yholc lucks. which look as if
openings "ere cut through a top
layer of fabric to expose another
layer underneath , are acmally pairs
of idcntk:tlly cont oured tucks that
meet in the center. Since keyholes
rc.quirc two tucks joined in the
m iddle, the mcasmcments for each
(a)
I
I
I
I
I
I
0
0
0
I
0
ing.
0
0
(b)
164
Viii-23- SP<Xed
wcks with saw<ootb,
saiJns!llched edges.
CONTOURED
TUCKS
Chapter 8
T UCK IN G
165
CONTOURED TUCKS
or
06C
between l>glOg<OI>loured ~
c
I
V/1~27-Keyhole
166
SLASHED T UCKS
SHARK'S TEETH
PROCEDURES
I. Rt\1cw the procedures for
Standard Tucks lhat ))(,gin on
page ISO.
2. Plan, mark, and sew a succession
of >paced or blind tucks !nn
( l.3cm) wide or wider into
appropriate fabric.
3. To make s hark's teeth:
n. With b bric-safe d isappearing
pctl o t cltal k, l1mrk the front
of each tuck with slash lines
between and perpeuclicular to
th~ fold and seam of the tuck.
Space the lines two times the
\\1dth of the tuck apart. mark
ing at le.~s1 two slash lines per
tuck {two si.1Shes make one
sharks tooth. lhrct slashes
make two shark's teeth. fou r
.... ................. ..
::::::::::::::::::::.1
Fig. 826. Cutting Into a tuck with
uniform, closely spaced snips to ere
ate fringe.
lO
itnd I he seam.
b. Smp each luck closely. cutting
NOTES
&
V ARIATIONS
or
(a)
( b)
(c)
Fig. 825. To make shark's teeth: (a) Space slashes two-times-tuck-width apart.
(b) Turn the edges of adjacent slashes to make angled folds. (c) Zigzag stitch
fo catch the edges.
Chapter 8
T U CK IN G
167
168
SLASHED T UCKS
SLASHED TUCKS
e<Jch t1JCk
Chapter 8
T U C K ING
169
SLASHED TUCKS
170
C ROSS-5 TITCHED
T UCKS
\
-<~~ck
UN DULATING TUCKS
(o)
(b)
(c)
PROCEDURES
L. Rc,'icw 1hc procedures for
Smndard Tucks !hat begin on
page 150.
..............................___
'
!
--------.------...
..
------....
.
~-----
I
... - -~-
Chapter 8
TUC KING
171
CROSS-STITCHED TUCKS
172
Fig. 833.
Bubble tucks:
(a) Crushed
under pulled
over-the-tuck
sUiches.
(b) With folds
tacked
together and
anchored to
the tuck
seam underneath.
CROSS-TACKED
TUCKS
-centered wcks with folds handstitched together at intervals. There
are two kinds of cross-tacked tucks:
BUBBLE TUCKS
(b)
CABLED TUCKS
PROCEDURES
l. Review the procedures for
Standard Tucks that begin on
page 150.
2. Stitch a succession of centered
tucks into a length o f fabric.
3. Mark 1he surface of each mck
with spaced tacking poims using
pins," fab ric-safe disappearing
pen , or chalk. Test for spacing
nrst, appl)'ing th e sde.ctcd technique 10 a scmp o f lucking . Wi1h
needle and thread. tack th e
oppo>ilc folds or the tudnogetb.er a1 the marked points:
NOTES
& VARIATIONS
n,.,
or
3
4
(D)
(b)
6 5
4
(c)
6 5
6 5
Chapter 8
TUC KIN G
173
{r
:f
CROSS-TACK ED
T U CKS
i .
~
r
n~
tt
:1
'i
~~-
'1
I
174
f:,
1
1';
j:
'
~-
1
'[
I
:I
'
:
i
r-
-~
can be d on e inconspicuous!)'.
backstitch or stitch in place to
!><:Cure the seam. Hand se" 1ng
ma)' be ~asier tha!l !Wiclune
sewing for crossrucked pattern<
P ART IALLY
SEAMED TUCKS
- t ucks stitched with sca ms that are
deliberately incomplete. There a re
two typ es o f partially seamed t ucks:
RELEASED TUCKS
PROCEDURES
t-\
}:\
\ .1 \) \} } 7 \.
j~{)
.'~
t \ \./t\\.{t\S-<1\\./
'
>:<
?:"\.
)=\
~$
)\
).\
N OTES &
X)\ I \ <;.J!\ ;\ -J
CO{
'
\ -J
'
'
'
VARlATIONS
or
(b)
Chapter 8
T UCK ING
175
PART I ALLY
SEAMED TUCKS
VfJ1.4(~Pamr.eJ rocks tn
the tlKks srop..
where
1?6
PARTIALLY
SEAMED TUCKS
C hapter 8
T UCKIN G
177
SEAMLESS TUCKS
-wcks formed and secured with
hand stitches at separated points
along their length. There are two
kinds of seamless tucks:
CLUSTER TUCKS
TIED TUCKS
~uotors :ll
-\----.....-
PROCEDURES FOR
TIED TUCKS
PROCEDURES FoR
CLUSTER T UCKS
1. Plan the numhcr of mcks in a
Back
Fold Dots
I=
I=
1(a)
rcqtHrcmcnt:
SpaeeBotween
Clusters
--~
.\
(b)
178
NOTES
&
VARIATIONS
(b)
(a)
(c)
(d)
Fig. 837. Examples of gridbased tied-tuck patterns: (a) Identical rows of dots
shape vertical tucks when pairs of dots are tied together. (b, c, d) Rows of dots
with staggered spacing and changes in the direction of dots to be lied together
release folds that restructure the fabric Into nontucklike formations.
Chapter 8
TUCK ING
i 79
SEAMLESS
TUCKS
V/li-1 5-Bcn~
'
I
I
V/11~16-Reversed clllsl<r n:cks.
180
SEAMLESS TUCKS
VIII-4~Samptes
used; (abwe left) see (a) a()(! (cj); (above righi) sec (b}; (below left}
see (c): (below right) see (c/).
Chapte r 8
TUCKING
18 1
SEAMLESS TUCKS
18 2
PATTERN
TUCKING
--fland-stit~hed pin tucking that
dlmensionalizes designs with rurving
and angular as well as straight lines.
Amid the ridges of the pin tu~king,
paccern-tu~ked fabric shifts between
smooth and puckery.
PROCEDURES
-___
/ ". .,/
(,
,.
ti'./
'
'\
\
I.
J
\
'
'
- __ ,., ,
(a)
(b)
ovcrca.~t
NOTES
&
VARIATIONS
Chapter 8
TUCKING
183
PATTERN TUCKING
V/11-52- Sho'low <1/frcost svtc~rng il'J~rnes o sprftll des1gn W!!h twJSty.C<Jgcd p.n wcki11g
184
Filled Reliefs
PA
FOUR
CORD N
9 Cording
-
CORDING BASKS
CORDS FOR CORDING
CO~D IN G BASICS
187
HAND-SEWN
CORDED
Q UILTING
- two layers of fa bric covering cords
conflnod w ithin stitched channels. a
combination that e mbosses an inter
lacing design into the surface fabric.
Allover
Desi gn
P ROCEDURES
I. Draft a full-size pattern for a
design that uses, as the linear
de,;ce. two parallel. evenly
spaced lines. The lines cleOnc
c hannds tha t follow curving,
a ngular. em wilting pnths thm
Border
Designs
Medallion
Designs
marking substance.
Bflste the inner lining to Lhe
surface fabric.
intrrrupLion.
188
the cord. As lhe cording readj usts, the toils and loops
rcucat inside the cham>els.
10
6. Line tl>e corded des ign. If needed, tncl< the outer lining to the
innc.~l' lining inconspicuously at
intervals. Cover the edges with
blndlng or sew to an extension
fabric, triuuni ng bulky cords
from the seam allowances if the)'
interfere.
Lining
Lining ---
"tgz
' '(dJPJJ~"r7.:;::--::------,
Lining ~-:
/ .... \- \
~-.
..... ...... -\ \
. .
: ...
. ..
'', I \
'
::
... :'
., ..
'
: o :o
/ . "
'
:' o:'
'
.~
- ~- l ... . - -- - ~ .
::
\\'
'
: :
, .
::
'
'
.,,.
'.
........
'.
'
'( 'r
\
~ \
<
',
.\.... ,~~.
:/
'
("
::
,' :
'(.
\
', .
.t t
~ ~
-- -- -- -- --'lll -- (c)
(a)
Fig. 92. Cording with cable cord: (a) Poke and wi ggle the needle into and out
of the inner lining. (b) At sharp turns. push the needle out, re-Insert into the
same hole and move forward. (c) Leave short tails where channels begin and
end, and tiny loops at re-direction points.
Chapter 9
CORDING
189
NOTES
& VARIATIONS
tl
(I
...----
or corcl or ynm
190
L..-- - --1
---,
__ .....:--- ...
';,>-~_,...
(a)
-.....
- -
. . ,r.< \
\J I
... '<."
........
'
- __,' ,'
....__,
'
...
__ .... -
, ,
'~,...~v~,
- - ...
I I
, - ... ' "
'~ "
),
'- 1 I
," , ....... __ ~
..,<._,' ... _ __ __
__ , .,.,
(b)
'
I
Cut the cord where a channel segment bcgms :md ends. Maintain an
even channel width throughouL
Adjust backstitching lengths around
curves~
-4
(a)
(b)
Chapter 9
CORDING
I 91
HAND-SEW N
CORDED
QUILTING
IX- I ROJMmg>Otchec!
cable-corded de>ign
IX-2-Dvpl.ca:e
des~g:ts \..1lh
chant>eJs rurr.ogstJl.c:hed on Ule le{i
and bod<st.tcr.ed
on 111 ngfot.
192
IX-3 Rcrer5cS~<~eo{the
nn>ong-S!>Idled ~
shtM"'i !lie ends (Jrt(/ loops
oftlw: rol>c<Otd (l"tt
Chapter 9
C ORDING
193
MACHINE- SEWN
CORD ED
Q UILTING
twO layers of fabric covering cords
confined within stitched channels. a
PROCEDURES
I. l'l'cpa,c u s uiped design com;>o~~d of >Lraight, wavy, or ang led
hands using equidistant double
lines as the linear device. The
most practical designs for
machme-,;e,"' corded quihing
ha\C parallel double-line channels
thnt t\\ ISland tum, thar touch
but don) cross. and that continue
unm1cm1plcd b)' stops and reSHlrb where sewing lhrcad must
be ~cured (Fig. 9-8). The safe
nels ns well.
Fig. 98. Continuous-line designs for machine sewing: (a, b, c) Designs with
parallel, uninterrupted channels. (d) Design for solid cording with segmenled
channels. To stitch. sew the straight lines first. then the stepped lines that angle
down and across, and oversew portions of the stralgh/ lines.
194
..
l. .
'
'
.
' '
:
' .
:
'
'
'
'
'
' ''
''
'
'
':
:
''
'
'
''' I''
:
'
!
'
Twin-needle rord1n!i! outlines ro\\ channel; "' th 1 ""''S <md>ing in front and mtrrt..~ ~tli.Chm!:
in bock. Select a finn cord that lib
between 1hc t\\~n nctdles. ti5C a
prcs~r fool \\ilh a groovein the 00,.,_
and choose 1hin fabric that wmp.
the cord eiiSily (Fig, 9-11).
.Iii I~
i
LWISI S
rhat sl1ow
1hrough
or
Surface
Fabric
(a)
lining
Surface
(b)
Fabric~
Lining
Fig. 910. Profile diagram illustrates the dilleronco In surface elevation between
(a) cord insened after sewing the channels and (b) cord lnsened while sewmg.
Chapter 9
CORD ING
195
(fig. 9-13).
(b)
(a)
196
Fig. 9-13.
(a) Zigzagstitched cord with
floaters that
break !reo from
the stitching.
(b) Short lengths
of satlnstltched
cable cord with
both ends free
and untwisted.
IX-7- 1\vo SIZes ofcable core/ ughriy enca~d as dre SO<lm$ wen;> str!ciJerl
""''*
MACHINE-SEWN
CORDED QUILTING
Chapter 9
CORDING
197
MACH IN E-SEWN
CORDED QU I LT I NG
.' ,..
f '~
...
198
SURFACE
C ORDING
-parallel tubular casings, raised and
stitched into the fabric like tucks,
that round o ut over the fo undation
when filled with cord.
P ROCEDURES
l. Decide how much fabric to allow
for a tubular c<ts-ing fo r the
selected cord ( rdcr to "Cords for
Cording" on page l87). Pin the
1!
I ;
(a)
!t
Fig. 9-15.
(a) Fabric
prepared for
sewing cord
into tubular
casings.
(b) Machine
stitching a
cord into a
pinned fold.
(b)
I
Fig. 9 - 14. Testing the fit of a tubular
casing a round a cord lo set the fabric
a llowance.
Chapter 9
CORDING
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
,.,---....., ..,..--...,..
~
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I It
--,
r--;;;:..
~''
''
'
I'
I
I
I
'''
''
(a)
''
'
(b)
I
I
..
:'
'
;'
'
:'
'
'
'
''
:'
'
:
''
'''
'
'
'
'
''
I'
''
'
'
:'
'
;'
''
'
'
"
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
F~g. 917.
(a) Fabric
marked wi!h
seamlines
for tucks to
be corded
alter sewing.
(b) Sewing
the casings
be/ore
Inserting
cord inside
the tubes.
ric with cording >paces and separations, sew the ends of the fabric
together, m;uching the markings.
Stitch-and-<:ord each tube in one operation, butting the encb of the cord
"here they meet, or sew the tubular
casmg> and leave an ope11ing in each
seam for cord insertion afterwards.
Unlike hand->cwn 'md machine
sewn corded quilling, s urface-corded c hannel~ manage cords or tmy
diameter (refer to "Cords for
Cording" on page I87). Patterns are
LimiLcd 10 strnlght rows varied wiLh
cording that differs In size.
Covered cortb Lhat arc separated
from 1he fabric can be curved and
coiled during application. Dctru:lted
cordi11g is m.-.de from strips of bi.'lS-<:IIt
t1bric wide enough to be folded
lengthwise around the selected cord
(fig. 9-18). The cord IS machme
stitched inside the cJSing witll"
zipper or cording foot.
Stralghtgraln
200
Th e A rt of M anipulat-ing Fabric
SURFAC E CO RDI N G
.r
..
..
''
.'
..:
_,
(a)
(b)
Fig. 9-22.
Corded
tubing in
process.
ready to
be turned
right side
out over
]I
lheoord
thai
extends
from the
endollhe
bias strip.
Chapter 9
CORDING
201
SURFACE CORDING
202
SURFACE CORDING
"''""'"cc''"'ed
IX I~ <mbell<shcd 'Mih
cOtde<J ubir>g opptJ"' o ser<les>gn ant/ f<1lle<1 Mill
o dou!ie rrm o( ppong/1~.
Chapcer 9
C ORD IN G
203
QU ILTI N
10 Quilting
QUILTING BASICS .................. 205
Tr:msfening Designs .............. 205
Tracing meo hods .................. 205
Baoomg .................................. 206
Tile Doubled-Binding Edge
finish .................................. 207
joining Modular Unios ............ 208
Concealed COIIIlCCLions ........ lOil
Taped connections .............. 208
Stripped connecoions .......... 208
HANl) QUILTING .................... 209
Procedures .............................. 209
Notes & Variations ................ 213
Stabsoitched quiloing ............ 213
Backslitchcd qui lting .......... 213
Envelope edge ......................2H
Flat hand quilting ................ 214
T)ing ..................................21-1
lining-binding ....................214
MACHINE QUILTl NG ........ .. .... 2.17
Procedures ..............................217
:-.Iotts & Variations ................ 221
Art quilting ..........................222
Openwork nnni-mo<lulcs ....222
Tabs ..................................223
Pressed quohmg .................. 223
columns.
QUlLTING B ASICS
T RANSFERRING DESIGNS
and quihcd or machine
quilted, Lhc type of design.
the size of Lhe 10p. and the
quilling procedure are considerations
when deciding whetlocr to copy the
dcsi~:n onto tl1e fabric before the top
is basted to the batting and lining, or
aftcrwnrds, jusL prior lO quilling.
Copy before hasting when intricate
allover de.signs cross large areas of the
surface. when the smnll size the rop
mflkes it easy to trace the lines beforehand. or whctl the top/batting/lining
will be hand quilted in a frame.
localized designs involving repeated
shapes ma)' be marked as quilling
pro<:ecds. Improvised panems
rtquire linlc or no mar~;ng at all.
Mark lines on the righL side of
the top after the fabric has been
pressed smooth. Immobilize Lhe
fabric to prevent it from moving
during tracing. Use a fabric-safe
substance that marks fine lines,
barcl) distinct enough to see when
stitching, durable enough to last
untiltbC)' arc quilted. and preferably coverable by the stitching. If
the lines will be ,,;sible after quilting, they must he completely
removable by brushing. erasing.
washing, or an) other mclhod compaLiblc with the quihed textile.
Chemicals in the marldng substance should do no harm in the
(uLurc. To avoid lllll>leasanc surprises.
,,r
TRACING METHODS
Pladng the design underneath
the wp. use a light box 10 cxpo;.c
the lines LhaL need Lracing. lf Lhc
top is small, dayhght shining
through window glass will reveal
Lhe design to be traced.
Place dressmaker's carbon
between the design and tl>c top.
Trace over the lines of the design
with a tracing whei:l or :m tonply
ballpoint pen.
Heat pres..~ w nuloma1ict~lly lntnS
fer a fresh photocopy of the
clcsign to the top (the Image will
be reversed) or, using a traotsfcr
pencil. trace the design onto
paper and heat press the transfrr
copy of the design onto the fabric.
Make a perforated sLcnciI b)'
machine se,'<ing \vith a large necclle and no thread over the lmes
of Lhe design traced onto light
cardboard or acetate. Pounc< the
design onto Lhe Lop by forcing '
harmless powder. such as connnmon or talc, through the punctures: or dcinc the dc.ogn "lth
dots marked on the top through
the holes.
Place a commercial or hand-cut
sloned stcnd l made from sofL
plasnc on tbe top ill1d draw Unes.
guided br the channeled openings, to reproduce tl1e design
Tape n)lon net o'er the design-onpaper and Lrace tlw design on the
nylon filaments with an indcUble
pen. Pinning the net to the fabric.
follow Lhe indications on tl1c netting to mark the top with a broken
line that describes cloe design.
QU ILTING BASICS
205
206
B AITING
Batting is manufnctured. from
llal\lral or synthetic fi ber. whitlt
have been minglcd t.ogct her, S[>read
o ul into sheets, and lreated to
udhcre. For stahilil)' and dural>ili ty,
or
QU ILTING BASICS
..
Straightgrain
/, _/I
Strt to /
cut
I I
I 1
I A
(~}
T ti D OUBLE-BlNDlNG
EDGE FINISH
Binding frames a quilted textile
with a smooth, narrm\; protective
edging. A doubled binding also
incrcas<s the firm ness and durability of the edge.
If the qui lted text ile is rectangulnr or square, wltc kngtlt and wicltlt
rncasu,cmrnts across cl1e centc,. to
estimate the amount of binding
required. and to cut the bin dtog for each side. Pre-measured
binding bilscd on cemer measurementS equalizes opposi1e sides.
\\1th the quilted textile smoothed
to
binding l1t comtrs. Turn tlll binding <.1\'cr the edges to the lining side
of the CjUtltctlt cxt ile. Blindstitch
the !ready folded edge of the binding to the lining. concealing the
machlne-~'vn cam under the fold
( Fig. 10-2). A doubled bindmg
should feel .lS thick all the way to
its edge as the bod)' of the quilted
ICXtiiC.
To bind entirely by machine, sew
the bmdmgto the lining side of the
q uilt. turn the folded edge to tltc
fro m , and cdgcstitch through all
layer~ 10 srrure.
Perpendicular
Guideline
out llat. use a tape ro measure curving edges for binding length.
To bind straigh 1 edges, cut binding strips nn the s traight of the fabric, piecing the s trips together as
needed ( tefer to Fig. 3-23 on page
XX), nr cu1 continuous straigJn.
gram binding (Fig. 10-1). for edges
that cttrve, cut the strips on the bias
(rder to Fig. 3-H o n page XX and
Fig. 9-18 on page XXX). The width
of a doubled-binding strip equals
four times the "idth of the finished
bmdmg in (rom, plus tWO scam
nllo" anccs. Finidtcd binding width
equals tht stam <rllowancc around tlat
edge o) tltc t{uiltr<ltop at tlte lenst,
m11l <my lwuiug rltm extends beyond
rite rrl,~c to fill a widrr /Jindiug 111 tltc
Chapr I 0
QUILTING
107
} OINCNG MODULAR
U NITS
.. .
.
....
Module 12"
.
.
. .
Lining
'
.. . '
.
'
''
''
..
'
CONCEALED CONI\TECTTONS
'
'
/
'
'
/
/
''
Fig. 10-4. Taped connection: Sew two modules together. Cover the
seam allowances with blindstitched tape.
TAPED CONNECTIONS
Cut a strip of lining fabric four
seam-allowances wide and as long
as the modules to be joined. From
the strip, make a tape with the seam
allowances on each side pressed
underneath. With right sides facing,
sew the edges of two modules
together, stitching thmugh all layers.
Picking apart any quilting seams, cut
the baiting o ut of the seam
allowances and trim the li ning
seam allownnces by half. Spread
Mod lo 12
STRIPPED CONNECTIONS
Cut two strips. one for tl1c wp and
o ne for the lining, each as v.-idc as
the desired spread plus two scam
allowances, ami as long as the modules 10 be j oined. Sandwich the
edg" of one module between the
two strips, right sides facing, and
st!w through all layers. With right
sides together, sew the strip of top
fabric 10 the second module. Spread
both modules out to the sides of
the connecUilg strip. Cut a lcogtlt
of bouing wide enough to fill in the
gap behind the top strip; hand sew
the edges o the balling to the abutting seam allowances witlt large,
loose s titches. Smooth the lining
s trip over the senm allowances and
Module #1
Lining
:Modute. l1
L!nln.g
.: .:
208
A~
Lining strip
r,
Module 12
Lining
............ ..
Module 112
Lining
Fig. 105. Stripped connection: (a) Join modules to strips, leaving one edge of
the lining strip loose. (b) Fill the space behind !he top strip with batting tacked
to the seam allowances. (c) Hand sew the folded edge of the lining strip to the
adjoining module.
HAND Q UILTING
- lines of running stitches designed
to adom and secure an impressionable tOp fabric to the soft batting and
lining l.hat are layered underneath.
PROCEDURES
1. Develop a design that will cover
I he full cxtenl
the fabric wilh
lines to be inscribed with running
stitches. The stitched Unes mus1
be close enough to merge the
thl'ee layers of top, batting, and
lini ng into a single, stable textile
(refer lO "Batting" on page 206}.
Contrast in the direction, spacing,
and density of the Unes exploits
1he bas-relief potential of padded
fabric. The simplest quilling
design is an allover pallern wilh
or \\1thoUI a border. Complex
quilling designs combine:
or
Fig. 106.
Hand quilling
designs:
(a) Traditional
figurative
motifs.
(b) Echo quilting and
(c) stippling
are specialty
fillers that
Ioree surrounded motifs
to stand our
from closely
quilted back
grounds.
(b)
(c)
Chapt<r I 0
QUI LT ING
209
r . ... .. . ,
_ ...... ,..... .,
- -- .,
1
~ - r - 1
r - -- - .. - .,
:
~ - - - -!
!
I
:
r
I
- - - ~ - r - ~ - - -- - ~- r - -- - - ~ 1
, I
:
I
---~
l- -,- J
,- T '"'I
r ----- ..
.- - - - -- - ~
,...
- -- ~ - ~-.- - -- ~ - ~ - ~ - - -~ - 1 1
r- _.
,-- - -- .- - ,
'
: - ;- "'
I
2 10
The Art
o(
dirCCLS.
3. Cut the batting and lining sligh tly larger than the top. II the top
H A ND Q UI LT IN G
- r - t- - t- - 11
- ~- - ~- - ~-
r -, - r-
1- - 1- - 1-
I
-~ -
r - r- - r- - ~ - -, - -, - "1
r--r--r - 1- -,--,- ., 1
.!-- I I I I I
1--r - . ,'!. . - 1 --t--J-;
I
I
I
I
I
l I
L- ~ - L -I _ ...J _ ..J_ ..J
L _I _ L - I - ..J - ..J I
I
I
I
I
I
L - L_I_.J _ ...J
1
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
_j
(o) _ __
- til~--
(:-~StM
L_ __ L _ I _ .J_
1
I
I
I
I
(a)
(c )
..
,.
,. ,. ,.
,j.r
'J
,.
<"
<"
....
....
....
.I ,.. ,.
I ,.
... ,..
,. ,.
,. ....
I" ,. ...
1 ....
,..
,.
.... ....
)
,. .,.
....
. .. ..
"'
...
"
I r
.r r
.I
....
,..
(c).,~
(c) An alternative to burled knots uti
lizes thread 36" (91.5cm) long. Use
half the thread to quill in one direc
tlon; use the other half to quilt in
another direction.
.r r
'
"'
Chapter I 0
Q UILTING
2 11
(a)
(b)
(b)
(c)
(c)
(d)
(d)
( f)
212
HAND QUILTING
Chapter 10
QU ILTING
213
2 14
F~brlc
(a)
<! .. ~
C! ''?
? . <?
y
(e)
HAND QUILTING
X-1 ~>'6"'
-ed ~~>ifh
X-2--&nlrng-;nu:hec/ design
Chapter 10
QUILTING
215
"""*'..s
X-J-~,.., otcu1ar
emphasutd "'"' bod<stittt~
~ seL .n o (eld o(11J111W1i-SI~c/>ed ho quillng.lns>de, the
_ , 10 the kit IS qtlllted wl!h 0 ll'rd-boscd OOmond potlert\
!he W1i'ldow to lhe t'Jt.l- "'th on mpttr.is<d dranood par<em
t-
1:.
"'\\,
l ''
"
'
\:
.-
.,.
..
Embroidcry-tross ues
used to qUJir rh;ck bomng.
X-4
,..
j
"
\
I
,,
II
'
2 16
"'
"
.!
MACHINE
Q UILTIN G
twO layers of fab ric with batting in
between held together with
machine-sewn seams that follow a
decorative pattern. The seams
impress lines of continuous thread
into the padded surface.
-
PROCEDURES
1. C rcntc a linclu' design that will
e nhance the padded surface
when in.s nibed "ith srhching by
rnocltinc. Continu ous lines that
start and stop at the edg es, and
lines that describe or fill "1th a
minimum of internal stops and
Fig. 1020. Border designs: (a, ~- c) Machineguided quitting. (d, e) Freemot,on qw/1/ng.
2. em fabric
3. Cut tht batting and linmg slightly larger than the top. 1f the top
is big (e.g., oduh bed-covering
si:t), cm the baumg and lining
-1" ( I Ocm) larger all a round; fo r
smaller tops, n:duce the increase
accordingly.
tO
Chapter 10
toActhe r:
or
QU ILTING
2 17
(b)
(c)
Fig. 1021. Designs fortree-molion quilting: (a) Flgurstive motifs for stitch
tracing without stops and re-stat1s e/sewhem. The flower on a stem with
leaves is the most forgiving to stitch because irregularity Is built into the
design. (b) Improvised meander stitching for finer. (c) Echo-quilted spiral
and heart shape. with improvis ed meander-stitching filler.
As an alternative. use a frame
as large
2 18
MA CH IN E QUI LT IN G
EvenFeed
Walki ng
Foot
Straight
Stitch
Presser
Foot
Zigzag
Presser
Foot
Open-Toe
Presser
Foot
the quilting
design for the easiest
approach: As an example,
quilt centralized pallern
lines first to stabilize the
busted top/baningllining
aml divide it into secrions.
(3) Analyze
4 2
Fig. 10-25. Ernest B. Haight, a pioneer machine quitter. developed a
soquentlal-line system of quilting that
kHPS the bulk of the toplbattingAining to the left of the presser foot
Outline a diagonal gnd with lines that
converge at the ooter edge. Start
qvilting at arrow I. At the end of line
Ill, swivet the fabric until line #2,
which angles off to the left, is in
stitching position. Quilt line #2. AI the
end, swivel to the felt to quilt line #3.
Repeat until there's no line to the left
to quill. Start over again at arrow 2,
following the same "quilt to the letr'
path. The number of paths to follow
before all lines are quilled varies with
the size and shape of the rectangle.
Darning
Spring
B igfoot
Darning
Foot
Fig. I 0-27. For free-motion quilting,
machine attachments that hold the
fabric down while the stitch Is formed.
Spring
Needle
(b)
Chapter I0
QUI LTING
21 9
tn{u::hinc.
1naintain maneuverability.
(-t) When quilting activity
progresses beyond the tlat,
taut space contro lled b y
the fingers. or if the fabric
begins to jump up and
down with the needle,
stop with the needle
down, reposition the
hands, and start again.
220
.'
- -.
(b)
- ,..
Fig. IQ-29. (a) Large toplbartingllin-
NOTES
cohesiveness.
(a)
&
VARIATIONS
" Te.~ and "pr.ctice" are the golden rules of machine qutlring. On a
sqwre of IOI)/bauinljlining prepared
for thai purpose. test the operating
condition or the machine. the size of
the needle, 1hc 1cnslon selling. the
length and :oppc:onmtc of the sti1ch
in front and back, and the >l!cngtb
and vlsunl cm1ttihu1ion of the thread.
lest different presser feet. Allow
atnplc practice time for frce-motton
quilting. Machine-guided quilting
requires less pmctice because it
resembles plain muc.hinc sewing.
Chapter I 0
QU ILT ING
22 1
222
( c)
( d)
cd
(c)
(d)
(a)
(e)
(b)
ITIIIID
(I)
Fig. /D-34. (a) Designs for tabbed coostiUCtions. {b) Sewing and quilling a
tab before application to a foundation. The seam allowance at the top of the
tabs is either (c) tumed inside while hand stitching, (d) enclosed under topstitching, (e) caught into seams, or (f) covered with zigzag stitching.
Chapt e r 10
Q UILTING
223
(4) Place lOp strip I'J over the second top stri p and lining strip :IJ
O\'Cr the second lining strip, and
sew the four fabric strips and bat
ting together. (5) Open. press, and
repeat the procedure until the
de>ign is complete. Note that. "1th
the exception of the stnps 1hat
s t>trt the: construction. all s trips
of haui ng arc cut to the finished
width plus o ne scam <>llowance
on ly ( Fig. l 036) .
Fig. 1035. Pressed quilting sewn to a banlngR/ning foundation: (a) Strips of top
fabric affange<J diagonaRy. (b) Finished mocJula before trimming. (c) "Logs" of
top fabric arranged around a central square. (d) Finished "'og cabin" module.
224
MACHINE QUILTING
sutched and
mach,ne-guldfd_
Chpter 10
QUILT I NG
225
MACHINE
QUILTING
X- IQ
A chon of
--Ofk~
226
~bands.r,.,
MACHINE QUILTING
Chapter I 0
QUILTING
227
01
STUFFI
11 Stuffing
STUFFING BASICS .................. 229
Stuffing ..................................229
Procedures ..............................251
STUFFI NG B ASICS
STUFFI NG
tuffing is both a noun and a
verb. As a noun, stuffing is a
loose. soft, airy accumulation
of natural or sr nthctic fibers. 1t is
used to !ill up containers of fabric.
'2"2 9
STUFFED
Q UILTING
layers of fabric faste ned
together w ith a stitched design containing enclosed shapes that are
heighte ned with stuffing.
-tWO
(c)
Afterwards, stu ffi ng can be TCclistribu tcd to fi II o ut mino r d ep ressio ns pre\>iously overlooked , or to
p u ll stuffing into points o r corners
th ai need attcmion. Usc th e lip of a
Slltrdy needle ins.:ned inside the
PROCEDURES
l . Dr:tft n destgn with lines that
include enclosed spaces appropriate for emphasis with stuffing
(Fig. 11-2).
2. With a fi ne-line, fabric->afc marker, 1mcc a faim bm distinct copy
of the design o nto 1he right side
of fablic that h as been c ut to size
(d)
<.. ........:"!
:::~:::.)'~
:---......_.:
........-"'\
:
......... .;'
.....'\
~~
<:.:...::.~
./
-..)\
c::.-.-~::>~
(~
,:
.......-'\
(.>l
.... 1
(f)
230
N OTES
&
Oullil1es
VARIATIONS
lh<ll are
hand-sewn with
Rg. 113.
Stuffing a
design, outlined with
running
stitches.
through
sBrs cut into
the lining.
Chapter II
ST UFFING
231
232
STUFFED QUILTING
(b)
...
, ,
('
'~.:a"'
c(.
(f'
(c)
(d)
Ptg. 117. (a) Design for layered stuffed quUting with areas numbered In
adVancing order. (b) Circles in layer #I stitched and stuffed whi/9 stitching.
(c) Layer /12, when stuffed, pushes layer Ill forward. (d) After stuffing, layer 1!3
recedes behind previous /ayets.
Chapter II
STU FF ING
233
iJ
X~l-~c:hed borde<
~ lhu! .ndu<los a loop} ro.
~1-Su,.ght-lol>e ~ stm<gtw
234
..,
..
......
'
"' ~.
X/4-/ltver-sM stuffed qoJolong oud:ned wolh """''8 sorches (fir;m tho U>P} around Clilll<JtS
of i<Ju:x (oom. around cutouts o(bcwng, and atO<;nd a {tit ctJrout for tho cononuoos booier
STUFFED QUILTING
Chaptor I I
STUFFI NG
235
STUFFED
APPLIQUE
-fabric cutoutS stitched to a foundation with stuffing inserted
b~tweon tho layers.
P ROCEDURES
:tppliqut!s.
....
(c)
....-
...-
~
(d)
._
Fig. 11-8. Designs forstuffed applique have enclosed shapes to cut out andreapply with sluffing underneath.
Th~
Art
or Manipulating
(I)
...---' (b)
236
.0 .-" -.
Fab ric
(I)
Fig. 11-11.
(8) Bllnastitch/ng an applique threaeloasteel to the tounelation. In front, tiny
tacking stitches straeldle the fold. In oack, tile stitching lllfeael moves fonvard.
(b)
T
I
..........
(D) Lsc/Cier stitching an applique pin-lulsteel to the lounelation. In front, the nee
die takes tiny sritches through the fold, alternating with tiny stitches through the
founelation. In oack, lac/Cier stitching looks like running stitches.
(c)
(d)
~~
roundanon.
vv
10
(b)
(c)
Fig. 1112. Options lor machine applique: (a) Satin stitch with an open-toe
embroielery loot. (b) Stitch with a narrow zigzag. (c) Hemstitch. Use an embroi
dory loot if the zigzag loot hampers visibility.
Chapter I I
STUFF IN G
237
N OTES
&
VARIATIONS
238
ST UF FED A PPLIQUE
\{
!
(a)
-W
/-........
_..-....
/
r
.'
I\
/
/ \__::,..._;_
.
:
\
I
':>--1'
( b)
(c)
When machine S<!Wing, stan stackmg the "Ppliques rom rhe top:
( t) Stitch the smallest applique w
a medium-sized applique and s mff
the sm:dlest upplique; (2) sritch the
med ium-sized applique to the
largest applique and stuff the meditlln-slzcd applique: (3) stitch the
largest applique to the foundation,
ond s tuff it. The order of assembly
is optional for hand-sewn stacks:
either Start at the top, as for
machine se";ng, or stan at the base
and proceed upward to the smallest
appliqu~. stuffing through openings
in the sutching. 'lote that stacks of
more than three layers tend to
enlarge too much at the base, ending as a pillow that bulges below
the level of the fou ndation as much
:'1.5
Chapter II
STUFF ING
239
STUFFED APPLIQUE
240
STUFFED APPLIQUE
STUFFED APPLIQUE
X~l~~t<i
Chapter II
STUFFING
241
E LEVATED
APPLIQuE
-small fabric shapes, supported
from the foundatio n by gathering, that stuff into softly rounded forms with pucker y
sides.
that it
gathering:
GUSSET-ELEVATED APPLIQUE
PROCEDURES
I . Derelop an applique design \\ith
elements that are comp.1tiblc with
heightened relief. Simplify the
contours of the shapes selected
for elevatio n (Fig. lt-19) . Cut
apnrt a copy of the design to isolate the dements that will be clc
vatcd with gathering or a g usset.
With a gusset:
Fig. 1120. TWo shapes enlarged all
around to create pattems for gatherelevated applique. The concave edge
of the lower shape was slashed-and
spread to expand the gathering
length of that edge.
With a gusset:
A Measure all around the shape
10 be elevated.
Sogment
242
Gusset
ELEVATED APPLIQUE
Elevated Line
Fig. 11-23. Drafting a gusset that elevates three sides of a shape with four sides.
The gusset is divided into segments, each one matching one of the three sides
In length. The edges of the slashed and spread shape Intended for elevation
11ave been re-drawn to smooth out.
~-
(a)
Applique
'"~
Fig. tt-26. (a) Applique to be elevated with gathering on one curvy side.
(b) Applique slashed and spread,
and curved out at the slashed edge
with a line that echoes the origfnaf
cantour. Th" pattern was drafted on
the fold."
or l\11 applique:
With gathering:
a. Slash the applique. cutting
Straight across &om the
edge(s) to bt ek\'atcd to the
oppoSite side. stopping Yi"
( 1.5mm) from the opposite
edge
b. Fan Olll the cuts to e>:pand
the sidc(s) to be elevated by a
lotul amount equal 10 the.
desired elevation.
With a gusset:
a. Ornw IWO parallel lines, each
:ts long ns 1he measurement of
the slde(s) to be elevate<l. and
as wide apart as the desired
height of the cle\'alion. Taper
the cle,ated line into the
basdine at each end.
\\"tth a gusset:
a. Draw two parallel lines, each
as long as tlte measurement of
one of the sides designated for
eleva (ion, and as \\1de apan as
the desired height of the elevation. Taper tht elevated line
into the baseline at each end.
Chapter II
STUFFING
1~3
c.
Gusset-elevated applic;ues:
a. l'reparc a gusset that tlevates
nil sides or an applique by
stilchlng 1he ends 1ogether
oudines.
Ftg. 1128. Patterns lor a gather-elevated applique with match point indications. The applique's outline is its
fold ond stitching line.
Fig. 11-30. To applique a hand-gathered edge with /Jtindstitching, distribute the gathers evenly and tack each
furrow to tho foundation. Remove the
visible gathering thread wl>en finished.
Gusset-elevated appliques:
Trace applique 3nd gusset oullincs on1o the wrong side of the
fabric (oplional: 1race the seamJones as well). CUI out on the
9. Sew the ele,aled appliqu~ 10
1he foundauon:
244
GathCI'dcvatcd appliques:
ELEVATED APPLIQU E
NOTES
&
VARIATIONS
Chapter I I
STUF FING
245
~ 01
ELEVATED APPLIQUE
X~ I 3-Peccd dcs,gn wrlh scleaed rnangulor
elemeni.S e'ewllcd on one Side v11rh golhenng.
246
...
=-
<
>
I<
b..
I<
>
H ALF-ROUNDS
- long. slender strips of fabric
stitched side by side co a fo undation
with scuffing enclosed between the
layers and seams.
PROCEDURES
L. Crcalc an nrrangcmcnL of narrow
bar~ that are parallel, imerrupted, overlapping, or skewed. Add
uiungular and tapered ekments,
and unstuffed areas, for ' "'riety
and contTaSt (Fig. ll-33).
Number the pariS to indicate the
sequence of application (the next
hnU-rowtd applied cover5 the
seam allowance of the pre,iously
applied half-round, or halfrounds). Enlarge the design to
actual size.
,.....,..... .
3
5
"'"~;.:.::
:
~
.......
: I~ N
\.
12 \.
9
10
1
(a)
7
13
l:
! ...:
.
L,_j.J..:i . .:... .....
t--r-!_ : :
'\:._............................. /!:
! '\. ...........................,-/ ~
c.... :-,.;................... /.J......:
indicate seamlines;
(b)
Chapter I I
STUF FING
247
.........,,~;........'+
! ..........l
II'
#1
' 2
._:::
.:~~-vL.
I I l ,,
12
13
':~
. .... ,.
l
,,
(d)
12
#3
248
(a)
(c) Sow on~ edge of strip 113 over the edge of strip 112 and the other ed e to
'f'.~Sfound~tron. (d) Ease fullness at the ends of the strips into the basti~g seam
,e, ew tnangutar half-round lf4 in place.
i!e?:
. :#'~
l j, !
. ...__ i~' ,,.J .:,:.
,, -.... . ' .
. . . . .. ...
:
!
"'ll>T
(a)
II
HA LF- ROUND S
::
~ --
allowance.
NOTES
&
VARIATIONS
v,
Unstuffed
Channel
Unoluffod
Channel
nstuffed
Channel
Unstuffad
Channel
Chopter I I
STUFFING
249
X~ 16-An oppllcalion
HALF-ROUNDS
aJl>n
~ ~ed ~ hcl(-<oun<!s
ond r-"> sides uns~uffed.
250
I
I
:I
I
l
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
I
c:xtcnsion:
L....
r(a)
(b)
Fig. 114 0. (a) Pattern for a group of rolls with arrows connecting seamlines
that will be sewn together. (b) Sewing pin-matched seamllnes together.
CONNECTED
ROLLS
- long. plump, stuffed cylinders that
sit In parallel rows on to p of the fabric in the background, from which
they are construct ed like rucks.
PROCEDURES
1. Set a clian1eter larger than 'A"
i. ~--:::--. ~ :
~-.
,I
~::- ,: .:
(a)
S:,-o:::A;; ;: ;!,
I
casing~
(c)
Chaptr I I
STU FF IN G
25 1
!'
![:
1:
(f
~i
i
I
I'
'
i
,:ll
~:.___.__.==
-=-=~
(a)
_ .....-----<:::_
(b)
cious cur\'CS.
'1:'
lfl:
j l:
\1
I'
(I)
CONNECTED RO LLS
I''
I
( b)
252
CONNECTED ROL S
Chapter I I
STUFFING
253
(a)
(b)
Fig. 11-45. Shapes with straight and curving sides arranged into designs for lit
tie pillows: (a) Joined into a solid unit. (b) Connected with open spaces as pan
of the design.
(Fig. 11-48).
LITTLE PILLOWS
-plumped, geometr ic fonns cue
from doubled fabric, sewn around.
turned, and stuffed. Fitted together
Into n planned ar rangement, an
assembly of little pillows is self-lined
and reversible.
PROCEDURES
Shape
Enlargement
Pattern
(a)
Fig. 1147. Round and oval patterns for little pillows: (a)
Enlarge lor estimated height. (b) Patterns without seam
allowances, with stuffing openings marked.
254
LITTLE PILLOWS
...,.......
'
,'
''
''
.'
..
... r7"'"
,
......,
..
''
:'
~o. ........ _ __ ._ .. ~J
\..,......
\
\
'
'
'\
'
/'
'yl
:., ,/
/''\
'
.:
I
,'
..,!_.. ___ _
~-
(b)
(8)
(b)
''I .,
t
.f
,,J
-~
I'
(I)
(c)
Fig. 1151. Open attachments for little pillow arrangements (a & b) String ties.
(c) Faggolting. (d) Ribbon ties. (e) Whlpstitching at contact points. (f) Tabs that
start with curved projections added to each side of the pillow pattern.
Chapter I I
STUF FING
255
(a)
(c):---- - - - -
N OTES
& VARIATIONS
cumbersome.
When devising pancrns fo r
shnpe. wil h sides thm are dramatically different in size (elongated
rectangles, triangles, and ovals),
enlarge as usual. but reduce the
enlargement of che shon sides and
add the amount eliminated from
che shon sides to tlte enlargement
of che long sides (Fig. ll-52).
Two little pillow variations:
(I) Afcer turning che casing but
~BB
L....L.......Jt.........;<>=-\ \
(a)
Lining
c)
( b)
;J "-.. Lining
(d)
Fig. 11-53. (a) Design for li!tle pi/lows with p~ekholes. (b) Pattern with seam
allowance around the outs1de and peekhole m the center. (c) Peekhole prepered when the front and lining are stitched together. (d) Sewmg the edges of
lwo pil/ows-withpeekholes together.
256
T he A rt of Manipulating Fabric
L ITTLE PI LLOWS
Fig. 1154. Pillows with sides concaved by too much stu/fed eleva/ion
In the center are difficult to sew into a
closed constroctlon.
..
LITTLE PI L L OWS
l ~
"I
1
)(1,25--f'lutr.p t,O:ows v.'<h sas fii(Jt cur-co lft,OO'd
b<Me lhE porrem was- enlarged (or esMIO~
~ Oes'ii"S !DpSilld!ed on !1-,e re11er l'l!d.oa! rh<>
Chapter II
STUFFI NG
257
B ISCUITS
-<ushiooy mounds of fabric elevated
from smaD. squared foundations that
are sewn together. Pleats caught into
the seams tha t edge each biscuit make
room for the suppo r tive stuffing.
PROCEDURES
(a)
1. Draw a square, adding scam allowances, for the base of the biscuit.
Increasing the me of th.! IXl5t by the
tstimated height of the biscuit w!~G~
stttffed, draw an enlarged square,
including tbe seam allownnces. For
tlte bismit pattcm. For example: For
a biscuir l" (2.5cm) high, enlarge
a base 3" (7.5cm) square to a 4"
(IOcm) square. for a biscuit W'
(1.3cm) high, enlarge a 3" (7.5cm)
base to 3 11" (9cm). ~1ark a ccmcr
point on each stele of the base and
biscuit sqt~~rt!S, and CUI OUI the
paucrns (Fig. ll-55).
--(a)
!
j
----------
Base
Biscuit
... _-----
!
'
. .......... -. .-I
(b)
r-~--------- -~
- - - ---- ~
(b)
.
l
'
biscuits to basos
with inverted pleats
(a) Pin as shOvm,
making an inverted
pleat with both out
side folds meeting In
the center.
(b) Biscuit alter
stitching, with an
opening tor stuffing.
~-----
258
II
BI SCU ITS
t
(a)
MultJpte
1Biscuit!
Base
1
I
Mult i ple
Biscuit
Top
1
-
(c)
(b)
Fig. 1159. To quick-sew a I>/Ock of biscuits (a) Base and top patterns combin
ing multiple biscuits, with pteat tocations marked on seamlines. (b) Top and
base stitched together In one direction with inverted pleats at marked locations;
(c) slilched in /he opposite direction. Seams are stitched as numbered.
Chapter II
STUFF ING
259
B I SCUITS
XJ.l7- TfCJ<$noool
constn..cLIOn o( DI$CUIG
260
BISCUI T S
P...
~os conre<edlrl5lde
of
the lll<H-S<>Mge S<)JOra.
Chapter II
STUFFIN G
26 1
P EAKS AND
VALLEYS
,--
>>
r.._,
~&
<"'-r---,<"'r-~
.._, -
~c....k'
("
Fig. 11-61.
Designs for peaks
and valieys:
(a) With rows ol
squares Introduced for variety.
(b) With squares
needed to main
tain a level con
struction. (c) With
large triangles of
ffat fabric separat
ing triangles com
posed of peaks
and vaJteys.
<;~
v
~~
<-, <""' r- . _,
~ 'f'.,
'1\v
',.., 0,.
v
<, r- <""' "t") /1 1./ /'"\ IZ
' rx>
k-' .._, r- <1'1 1.:1 '\J ('..,
<"' ..... r- c"
-r;:
~~0,./1
~
( a)
(b)
'\j ( )
(c)
P ROCEDURES
I. Create a design of adjoining tqui-
'
'''
''
'
(a)
(b)
...
Baso
Poak
'
'
'
'' -------------''
o
'I
(o;J
Rg. 1162. (a) With a compass set to the measurement of one side of 1119
peak's triangular base, draft a triangle with throe equal sides. (b) Using the
same measurement, draft a square for the peak. (c) Patterns with seam
allowances, and circles ( ) to mark the corners.
(a)
Fig. 11-63. (a) Draft a square base for a peak. (b) Using a protractor, draft a
pentagcn for the peak with sides that match tho sides of the square.
(c) Pallems with seam allowances, and circles ( J to mark the comers.
262
(c)
Rg. 11-64. (a) Sow one side of the peak to one side of the base. (b) Match and
sew the next side, and (c) the next, leaving tho extra side of the peak as an
open fold at the corner.
'
...I . ............... -..... .. . ..............--- !
~
(a)
(b)
Fig. 11-66. (a) Peaks sewn together with open folds on the outside. (b) Folds
topslltched to the sides of rhe peaks alter stulfing.
NOTES
&
VARIATIONS
tion.
Chapter I I
STU FF ING
263
PEAKS
AND
VALLEYS
XI-]/
Meda...an of
X~Jl-&7Uer
rite
264
n~n~
peoo<S.
Structured
Surfaces
RT
12 Using Darts
DART BASICS .......................... 267
Securing Dan Scams .............. 267
SINGLE-POINTED DART ........ 268
Procedures .............................. 268
l'otcs & Variations ................ 271
Dans conven ed to seams .... 272
Surface dans ....................... . 272
Relc;~scd darts ............. ...... ...272
DOUBLE-PO INTED DART ........275
Procedures .............................. 275
Notes & Variat iOlb ................ 275
Dart pattcrn.s ........................ 276
Dart i mj>rm~sations ....... ..... 276
D ART B ASICS
t1
dan on the
stitch length.
DART BASICS
267
S I NGLE- POINTED
D ART
- V-marked segment of fabric folded in half and stitched from the
mouth of the V. which is always at
the fabric's edge, to the vanishing
point of the V, where the fab ric elevates or dips.
(b)
PROCEDURES
L
or
(C)
the 11m pattern where the elevation (or depth) will culminate at
the end. or apex, of the dan.
Connect the point to the edge of
the pattern with a line that indicues che location and length of
the dan.
a. For a s ingle dan: (1) Excend
..
''
'
\.
''
\,
.\
268
..
.
l,
Fig. 12-1.
Single-pointed
diJrts.
SIN G LE-POINT ED DA RT
(a)
(b)
r----1
(c)
(e)
'
...
..:
.'::'
(b)
Chapter 12
US IN G DART S
269
Orlgincll Silhouette
Enlargement
270
Fig. 12-7. Dart with seamlines drafted to curve inwerd or outward relative to straight guidelines (also refer
to Fig. 123).
Silhouette
Enlargement
or
Fig. 128. Pattern with darts that equalize the circumference of the enlarged cir
cle with the circumference of the sllhouette circle, segment by segment (A to 8
equals C to D; D to becomes the base of the dart). In comb/Mtlon. the numbel, length , and cuNatu/8 of the darts shapes the nat pattern into a dome or
bowl.
Chapter 12
USIN G C ART S
271
(a)
Fig. 129.
(a) Pattern vtth
comer darts
connected wirh
seamlines.
{b) Three-piece
pattern with
conrours adjust
ed to match
when sewing.
After testing, add
seam allowances
to the pstrerns.
( b)
I
--""""'-(a)
(c)
(d )
Fig. 1210. Surface darts: (a) Felled to one side. (b) Adjusted on the pattern for
matchmg edges at the base. (c) Cenrered over the dart sr;1am. (d) Conosllapod
pro,ectlng dart hemmed at the base.
272
SINGLE-POINTED DART
XII-1- Squores of
SIJ(fet>e<i muslin
ele.ore<! by darts
1.1" (2r:m) - 0( die ed;le. Four
darts (upper le[l)
e/Nne to f'q.
(4cm): -.!h ~
darts (upper
Ch
XJI.,I SI'I/1Ctl<d
""""" /OI'nS
~1010Ut>-
OOCM1S (the
ongrnal rxnrem
snafl6) thor
COIIltOl r/'ltJt
contouts ot liW!
edges,
Chapter 12
USIN G DARTS
273
SINGLE-POINTED DART
o
+
Th e A rt of Monipulating Fabric
D OUBLE-POINTED
D ART
-a diamond-shaped segment of fabric folded in half lengthwise and
sewn from tip to tip. Double-pointed
darts structure internillly, raising or
P ROCEDURES
Re,;ew "Single-pointed Dan on
page 268, particularlr the slashand-spread procedures.
NOTES
& VARIATIONS
''
''
,/"
'
I'
'
'
''
'
!
'
'
'
'
(b)
''
',
'
'
I'
''
''
''
'''
(0)
',
..
Chapter 12
USING DARTS
275
or hmall,
(a)
(c)
(d)
276
DOUBLE.-POINTED DART
accu rnulare.
With dan pa11crns and iJ.nprovisations, folds on the surface become
figurative design clements more
conspicuous, sometimes, than the
sculpted fabric that ttnderlies the
folds. Thread ends left to dangle
after knoHing add a feather)' flourish over the top.
XII-I 0-{ie(l) Musl:n srnp worh o ro.v o( ldenl!<ol dans As rhe clopped
dor.s roper our. rhe ever~.,denmg {obnc {oils '"'" so~ folds lk a
DOUBLE-POINTED DART
oswy.
Chapter I 2
USING DARTS
277
+
DOUBLE-POINTED
DART
Xlf-12-(top) Darts rhat cross .each adler and (bottom) cross d1e li/>S o( othm do11s
change the con{oJ1Urotion o(fi>rms groanded or d1e edges wrth Single poontccl duou. Bodo
eamples arc seamed ro sroys.
278
+-+
~~
+ t.
XII-IS Musi.n SlflKtured !0 loOk 1/<e marshmallows In 0 box
In F;g 12 13 (or the pclltem).
(see (b)
XII-I <r Re~rse side o( ~horo XI~ I 5 w,rh poaks ""'"ad of hollows
bfw,teen the ups o( rhe darts.
DOUBLE-POINTED DART
n.,
Chapter 12
USING DARTS
279
'
DOUBLE-POINTED DART
280
Mixed
Manipulations
to
invent.
13 Combinations
TECHNIQUE
V ARIATIONS
o certc.'l?d
band of ploon ~
Chapter 13
CO MBINAT IONS
283
XI/I 3 SHIRRED SURFACE CO.~DING (CORDED SHIRRED TUO:S)--COt<ls mserred and Sblc/led m
one opcrooon, and bobb1n-ihroad garhered as thr! cosmg fabnc wos garhetcd CNCt lhc cord.
,b_
.I.l'"'
t!:'l.
~
\trnb.
.,.
~
SHEllS -(left) Gtad""1ed oval (l<ITU>ms. (r~hr) Foi<IO<Itn hal{'""'
ga-thered unoJ suatght. gtod~a!Cd shet:s ate lll:)em;d n .!>t"(1m~. Cftftlt1~cJ mlo
a large ffCN.ter-15: dn:Je. and toUcd lii'I!O tftte.e bud like shrJJ)t-~ S~lt!f') bort~r
(]11 oppltqued band and sruffOO s'lcl.~ border lh<> sample
XJI~5
Xlll-1 GAFHRD CORDED TUBING Trgnt- and loose{llvng COS!Mg.S BOthered OVCr C:Ofd) wh,1Te IIJtfllfl_g fight $1de OtiC.
wbmg
284
sh.mng.
XW 7 BALL GATHERING-(top) Two "'"'"pies o{ spaced be# gathcnng (pll(f garhenng stuffed) mclude (olds tn :he o"'ro/1 design
(botwm) 1i"1> examples of massed ba~ gothenoli wid> very dosoly
spaced bells Qlr\ing one oi the scmples
Chapter I 3
CO MB INATIONS
285
r...,
286
TECHNIQUE VARIATIONS
Chapter 13
COMBINAT IONS
287
CREATIVE COMBINATIONS
XIII I 3 E/e-.ea form Cll!ISUIJCifd jrom a Clfdc o( moJ1hn tNe<
bot~ podded ~ shaped ,~Iii '"' ~ pootred d<wrs suf(n
'"""""" "'lh ~ a"d rnodrU!e <!'""""'& alld (in.sJ>od ""rh
g<J:hercd popong and o ruffled bale
wirh an """eJope-sry1
XIR- 16 Olg<moc-Jool<ing {omu /ormed lh ~~ed den; con>e:ted""" sean<. SlUffed and ped W'fO 0 h i/l.,....i C<JMn.COO(l.
288
CREATIVE COMBINATIONS
of gothcr~ieolru!d oppi<JU"
Chapter 13
COMBINATIONS
289
Xl/1.21 (irom me <op) Cabled tuck M!h ba''s """"'" mode opcnJ
(aids. sn 1>-!Mi<d ruff.e, band ofpleolS formed on 1he P,r(cct
Pte<~ret. and o battmg-pa<fded machi:ic-quJu:d cuff.
290
--
--
rm
.....t
Chapter 13
COM BINATIONS
291
XIII 26 Coosvuction of I" (I Ocm) SQI)(lteS vcnovsty pouemed 1vo1/t pe.klloles. sw/fed
and h~i!d mompulat1ons, and o wcwlt.ring poeh of opposite-edge galhering.
Xrtl-28 R.,..,.,..,;e<J
292
X/1130 The
flower'S:. .SE)en
made (rom coiled
double~
""" 0
ruflle-s
rrM~ecJ.fmllo
,._.w'tfO
W1lh
/W from
Jl"lheted dorls Loose ~
Jeoo.-.s, oxk-pou~
cone.,.,.,.
Xllr3, T/11T)e-
~~~~~;;;;;~;;~;;$-'
drne0<101 buflc
floral w1th
compoSirlon
o 'IOrety ofmofllpulorecl
rechfllqtJes: Dou~ec/
JU{fles. sngle edged ruffle. yo
Chapter 13
193
Xlll 33 MfJfl;rpufaoons integrated mro absrroa conscruCOOns: oftflre(s and tactA~ texttJf.es. Elld1 sur(or.e WtJ~ brtit
ove,. a lO(>IbrJtllnglltnlng (OOndar(on. w1rh rhc StlrchifiR r.hor secures the mrJJll(lUfations incorporml!d rnto lhe qutiiJn~
294
T he An
o(
Appendix
HAND S'fiTCI-LES .................... 295
GLOSSARY ................................298
SELECTED BIB UOGRAP~lY .... 300
Books ..................................300
Article> ................. .................301
COSTU~I E EXHlBlTlOl\S ....... .303
E:--ID!~OTE ............. ................... 303
HAND STITCHES
~ \.!:
B ACKSTITCI-1
-Strong, versatile hand stitch used
where firm sewing is required for
structural seams, for mending breaks
in machine-stitched seams, and for
hand quilting. Bad<stitches are also
used to secure sewing thread at the
beginning. replacing a knot in the end
of the thread, and at the end of a
row of stitching, Work backstitching
from right to left (reverse all directions if left-handed). Bring a threaded
needle up to the surface: Insert the
needle back Into the fabric Vs"
(3mm) to the right of the emerging
thread. For an eve n backstitch,
make a stitch V.." (6mm) long underneath and bring the needle out Vi"
(3mm) in front of the emerging
thread. For all succeeding stitches.
insert the needle into the needle
hole ending the previous stitch and
bring it OUt \lo'' (Jmm) in fronL Even
backstitching looks like straight
machine stitching ((a) in Fig.A I ).The
half backstitch looks like running
stitches. Making a stitch Yi'' ( 1.3cm)
long undeneath, bring the needle
out V<'' (6mm) In fro nt of the emerg
ing thread. Insert the needle into the
fabric \11" (3mm) to the right of the
emerging thread and bring it out V.."
(6mm) in front ((b) in Fig.A-1). For
( a)
( b)
(c)
stitches.
BASTING
- Temporary hand stitching that
holds fabric layers together in the
desired alignment until permanent
stitching is In place. Baste from r ight
to left (reverse all directions if left
handed). Fo r even basting, make
Appendix
HAND ST IT CH ES
2~5
(8)
,....;
~.!"
" )~
----1~
~/
~-
(b)
B LINDSTTTCH
- Scrong. inconspicuous hand stitch
used to applique a folded edge co
the right side of another piece of
fabric. Blindsdtching is worked from
right to left (reverse all directions if
left-handed). Bring the needle up
underneath the folded edge of the
applique. through two or three
threads of the applique's fold. and
pull out the thread. Insert the needle
Into the foundatio n fabric directly In
front of the emerging thread at the
edge of the fold: bring it out under
the applique's fold V." (3mm) ahead.
catching two or three threads of the
fold In the stitCh After four or five
stitches. pull the thread taut ((a) in
Fig.ll-11 on page 237).
CATCHSTITCH
- Flexible hand stitch minimally visi
ble In front, used to fasten pinked or
taped single-fold hems, to secure the
edges of facings. and to hold seam
allowances Oat against linings. Work
fro1n left to right (reverse all directions If left-handed) on the wrong
side of the fabric. Bring the needle
up through the fabric layer on the
top. burying the knot between the
layers. Moving forward at an angle.
alternate between a backstitch in the
fabric underneath and a backstitch in
the edge of the fabric layer on wp.
Catch one or <Wo threads of the
fabric underlayer in each stitch; make
296
L ADDER STITOI
-Concealed hand stitch used to
dose stuffing openings left in seams,
and to attach the folded edges of
appliques to foundation fabric. Ladder
stitching is worked from right to left
(reverse all directions if left-handed).
To c:lose openings in seams. bring
the thread out through the fold on
one of the abutting edges. Crossing
directly over tO the opposite edge.
take a stitch V." (3mm) long inside
the fold. Moving straight across. take a
stitch V." (3mm) long inside the
opposite fold. After five or six stitches
in opposite folds, pull the thread taut
((a) in Flg.A-4).
(b)
O VERCAST STITCH
- Slanting hand stitch used to prevent cut edges from ravelling. to fell
I
Fig. A5. Overcast stitch.
OVERHAND STITCH
SLIPSTITCH
TATWR TACl<S
/
Fig. A-6. Overhand stitch.
R UNNING 5TTTCH
- Basic hand-sewing stitch used for
construction when seams will not be
stressed, for gathering and shirr ing,
and for quilting. It is also used to
applique, copstitch, and hem with visible, decorative thread; and to sew
tucks when softness is desirable.
5TABSTITCH
- Hand stitch accomplished with
two actions: (I) Push the noodle
down and draw it all the way out of
the fabric. (1) Push the needle back
up to the surface and draw it all the
way out of the fabric. Stabstitching is
used when tacking and quilting.
TACKJJ~G
WHIP 5TITCH1NG
stitching.
tact points.
Appendix
HAND ST ITCHES
297
GLOSSARY
APPLIQIJE
- (I) Sm>ller, shaped cucouc of fubric applied to a larger expanse of
fabric. {2) To attach a small cutout ol
Iabrie to foundation Iabrie with hand
or machine stitching.
BIAS
-Direction that slants diago nally
across woven Iabrie. The true bias
moves at a 45-degree angle to the
crossgrain and lengchgrain of the
weave. The bias of woven fu bric is
stretchable.
BODKll\'
- Slender, blunted tool with a large
eye or a tweezer grip, designed to
draw tape. ribbon. string. cord, or
elastic through a casing.
CROSSGRAIN
-Direction of the welt yams or
threads that span woven fabrics
from selvedge to selvedge.The
crossgrain Is more adaptable than
the lengthgrain of the fabric.
EASE
- To match two unequal edges, one
slightly longer than the other. and
sew together smoothly by catching a
tiny bit of fullness from the longer
edge into each stitch,
EDGESTITCH
- To machine stitch through alllayeos
V.6" ( I.Smm) from a folded edge or
seamline with the Iabrie right side up.
FABRIC-SAFE M ARKER
- Tool, device, or substance used to
indicate seamllnes, fold lines. match
points, positions. and trace o utlines,
that does not deface the visible surlace of the Iabrie in any permanent
manner. Always test !he permanent
removability o( o substance on d1e
intended fabric before using. Markers
include: (I) Pins and lightly pressed
folds. (2) Scissor nips and notches in
seam allowances. (3) Basting and tailor tacks. (4) Blackboard chalk. chalk
298
pencils, chalk wheels. and chalk linco's. (5) Air-erasable and watererasable marklng pens with flne-line.
felt-tip points. (6) Colored pencils
especially manufactured lo r usc o n
Iabrie. o r atlst's pencils recommended as safe lor fobric (e.g.. pencils
made by Berol), with a sharpener co
m~intain a point, and appropriate
erasers. (7) Mechanical pencil with
hard lead, or an artist's hard-lead
drawing pencil sharpened co a pin
point, with a white, fa boic eraser or
H EM A LLOWANCE
G HAIN
- The weave of woven Iabrie. Fabric
is on grain when the crossgrain and
lengchgrain yarns or threads interlace at a 90-degree angle. II the fabric is off g rain, tug it across the bias
to restore the crossgrainllengthgrain
to a 90-degree relationship. Iron
with steam to set the corrected
alignment.
I RON
- To use an iron with forward and
backward. gliding movements,
removing wrinkles ~nd smooching
the surfuce of the fabric.
FACING
- Fabric seamed to a cue edge and
turned to the back in o rder to finish
the edge with a fold. Facings also
function as scays.A decorative
facing is turned to the front.
F INGER P RESS
-To flatten and open a short seam
allowance during the construction
F LUTE
-To applique an edge hand-gathered on even running stitches in
such a manner that the grooves
between folds. each anchored with a
stitch, are regular and distinct.
FOUNDATION
-Base Iabrie to which manipulated
elements and appliques are sewn.
Foundation Iabrie is visible between
and around tho applied clements.
GLOSSARY
L E 'GTHGRAI
- Direction of the warp yarns o r
threads that parallel the selvedges in
woven fabrics. The lengthgrain is
stronger and firmer than the crossgrain ol the Iabrie.
LmJNG
- Fabric that underloes the surface
fubrk and matches it in size and
shape. A lining conceals and protects
consuuction decalls. functions as a
NEEDLE M ODELLING
- Hand stitching using pulled thread
to create dimpled or extended
indentations in a stuffed surface. To
make one stitch or :1 series, use the
NIPS
STABILIZE
S TAYSTITCHING
NOTCHES
STABILIZER
PIN MATCII
PRESS
PRESS
QUILT-AS- You-Go
- Method of quilting that staots by
subdividing large top/batting/lining
projects into smaller segments which
are quilted one at a time before
assembly into the whole. Also called
"lap quilting," "apartment quilting,''
and, in this book, "modular quilting:
R UCHE, R UCHING
-closely gathered or finely pleated
strip of Iabrie applied as trim.ln contempor.lry lash ion writing. often
used as a synonym for any form of
gathering or shirring.
S EAM ALLOWANCE
- Space between the cut edge and
the seamline.After sewing two edges
together, scam allowances are
pressed ope~urned in opposite
directions, or closed-turned In the
so.me direction.
SELVEDGES
-Lengthgrain edges of woven Iabrie,
loom-finished to poevent unoavelllng.
STITCH-IN-THE-DITCI 1
STAY
STRAIGHT-GRAIN
S TRAIGHT OF THE
FABRJC
-lengthgrain of woven Iabrie. which
is indicated on patterns by a long,
double-pointed arrow.
S UFFOLK PUFFS
- English term lor a form of patch
work composed of circles gathered
into smaller circles. In America and
in this book, Suffolk puffs arc called
yo-yos.
Appendix
GLOSSARY
299
T EMPLATE
SELECTED
BIBUOGRAPY
1969.
Cunnmgton, C. Willett. Eng/ish 1\omcnl
BOOKS
TOPSTITCH
-To sew one or more rows parallel
to an edge or seam on the right s ide
of the fab ric through all layers, using
plain or decorative hand or machine
stitching.
UNDERSTrrCH
- To straight stitch by m achine
through a facing and all seam
allowances, but noc through the surface fabric. V.6" (I.Smm) from the
seam. Understitching prevents a facIng from rolling co the front at the
edge.
W ADDING
'fhr An 'if 5.1rwing. The Edilors of TimeLife Uooks. 16 vols. New York, NY:
Ti me Life ijool;.,, 1976.
C:nn, Roberta. Couhrn; The A1t of Finr
Scwhrg. t>onlnnd, OR: l'almc:.r/Pic.sch
Assoclote>. I 993.
Carroll , Allct. 11 GOO</IIousc/:ecping
Nttdlecrafl l'ncycloped!a. Sandusky, Oh
Stanford House. 19-17.
Caulfcild, S. r: A.. and S.watd, lll:mche
C. Encydopt'dla uf \'icrorian Xudlrwork~
2 \'OIS. ~t\\ York. J\Tf Dover
300
BIBLIOGRAPH Y
fO)S.
I)(IJ
ltJ "-'
1tnlJil,
, fur~'
\;U
'""''"t
'
(ot'\'.l1
l'fc.''' 1\)
'ltllkttWI(l.
r11 ,
Lll>ttc CA C &t
ttmorc Bordm
T Pubh<htng, 199}
Quthtng ~lttth Fl
1987
tnt,
~P'"'< lO..r
I Mallei) Pre->,
Pre.. 1985.
\'tCtO tan fa.s~lons and Costumes from
IQQJ
\1,-veh, Ltnoo F Tex~urc >+ith '/r.xnles.
<.hrr<rpt>n. Lo\ ,.,1f. published by the
authvr. 1991
ARIIC/ I~
v: 1 1NY BooJnt.J
\\'orld
Cchlum(Nt\\ .or~.
llOOh I ~80; onj\tnaliy pubi<>hl b)
ChJrl<' xrtbntr\ Sons. 1978
--~ -
t "\1\ll't
c,uc<J N<~:' ~~~~~"""'\t>l.
n\ikhtnr-m,a~t -'
~1lf<h'l>rlll:>~\ PI'
l.)ul!n;. Judith
>+
"('ud1 ~':;.!!'
-.uh ~~Nn""
'"'
~}
"''"'
ht II I If ~.til
y,,, ~ N r t
/lllwtiUI III,K
\lufhlltX ~~ \\
IIILIOGIIAI'MY
)01
.uu.l r.1hm
11\.lUIJ'UbUon
rr n
'~
- - - - - "\1.\mpul.HIUJ: f .1hm
-\m(u<u"
t..~,.lrn
lO!W) pp
\ttl \ l ('-pnng
2~ lO.
l~
Uuncl)ul)
hrd
l<iH7)
1'1'
102
~O~l
fh
/ \rt
of Martlpulotlrtl Iabrie
C:l:ure clothing
Connccuon .. Vanauon~ on a s.tam ...
lhtud.< Vol c22 (Apr/May 1989)
rr H-29
sh.;mk... Droll. tong Li'\'e
\Vnnkks! Add ttxture and shape to tht
BIBliOGRAPHY
und <luhnl\
Hand Qurlung
Choa>mg a frame. a Hoop. or On<'>
Lap. Qullttrs ~""sittrtr. \'ol H2
(!<lay 1991): p . S2-S3
~-=---:-- "lund Quolttng. Ahoot
( <.
t \lE
E:\HIB noNs
mlr'"d to the muS<'ums m
''" ell' th.u ha,c textile and
"'""nunc: collections. I can'l
unagor h." mg done this book
",, ~. 111 .teccss 10 such primary
..~ntrcc moucrial. ln particular, again
,oml ):"'" th~ striking exhibitions
,11 1 hc-.l~ m~ulutions gave 1ne inform.llion. wnfication. and the inspir.uwn to persevere:
ENDNOTE
ach ol the san.p~es
~raphcd lor this~
Alter pr::~dg" lor the catnerav.as
w
or SttaJni
ere Stretched and
ng, samples
pmned to a bat
txttnsively
1
or arranged an~ :&padded board,
a neutral back !Splayed against
lor all this pre::~~- ~he purpose
each manipulat d n. To show
advantage for ~-k surface to best
with the light a~d e
to te\eal
and-whue photo s h ow of blackIts apparent on tf:'t~The speckalto unbleached muslin c are natur-
:;;ran
Work-in-progress on this reference came to a halt when I realtzed that t! 1 continued on to the
end of the outline 1 orioinall
o
y proposed the stze of the manuscript
would scnously alarm my patient
pubhshcr. Robbie noticed that
prairie points weren't included
in the text. They were pan of the
chapters that would have followed
t f I hadn't decided to stop after covering the classic techniques, an
appropnate and sufficient focus for
one book. The rest could wait lor
another time.
Even so. letting go was difficult.
There's alway one more sample
that could be made, not to mcnuon
that naggmg questton. Have 1
overlooked something? Constrocuon dctaol. variation, tip?" I tinkered through the final proofreading. Out. eventually, the author has
to say rnough" and give it ove~ to
the reader. Now it's your turn. 1d
hke to know what you discover.
here's no such
mvcnt . and crca1e. T
.
thing~> the last word about mantp1. that's 11 unnl
ulaung fabnc. on>
ENDNOTE
JO]
Index
II .,,.1
lurtIWIIIH
slitchcd luck>
biOih
balling. 206--7
cord> for cordmg. 187
double-btndtng edge finish. 207.
215(2)
edge fini;hing for rumes. 43-'19
ex1cndmg 1he lucking fabric,
149-150
fabric required for smocking. 125-6
b.,,._
furrowing*,
J04
bowlitd
'""'II'"'
l'i'l, 2hl(l0)
hlhul
ltlt
c
cabled lucks Stt undtr cross-tacked
luCk>
canndgc plcaiS. See under projecting
pleats
cetucred tucks. Ste under standard
tucks
circular Oounce. 67-76
delituuon, 67
double-edged. 72. 75(7), 76(8,9)
edge r.n.,.hmg. 71
Oared fullness, 67-68. 70. 71,
73(1.2,3)
layered, 72. H(5), 76(9)
pattern dmfnng, 68
sptral-cut, 71-72, 75(6)
s1abilmn~:. 69-70.71, 73(1,2,3),
74(45)
Zl>l
r.
ll<hcd ~ h 171-72
r.cd 171, 172(36, }1), 291(2-f)
mmon 171
ulJIIng. 71 172('1-i.l, ,31),
l'Jl(ll>), 2931 29)
uurrrg (,hm
/)
a.,.
U>l> 1!0
de 'tA n piHJII. 2/)/)
,.rruhlrpmnrrd drr , 27$-80
W'C UfHIJI,. ddt1 'K'.. In\,
1111~
JA7
Jl'lrotrd d, ,. . 261!-H
''"''""rl
I 1'1, 140(Ji)
tf,.fmuum J JH
fr>o,J I II!, 122(311,}9 ,40), 123(41),
lHW I 7)
hmdlctrcbod, 8>-M
poimaldoru
dnped applknloas
OJIPO'Ik-edge ~ 16,
18(13,14)
shirring. 32, 37(18,.ZO)
lngk edge gathmng. 10, 13(')
ooft can rldge pla15, 107, 109(23)
34(8),2&1{3)
on nrllks Su edge frnislung for
ruffla
salln-<ttKhtd. 164,
E
echo quilling. Sa hand quilting
definition, 242
289(17)
embroidry stllch,.
S<t smockrng tmbrotdery <ucch<>
English smockmg. 129-37
definmon. 129
cmbrodenng. 1-32, 133. 134(3)
txperimenul. 133, 137(9.10)
rntenor, 133. 137( II)
mock, 133
pleaung, lund, 129-30, 132. 133.
134(1), 13S(5), 136(7).
137(10,11)
pleating. m<elunrcal , 129, 130.
ru..
JeliUCC edge, 49
Jlmng. 45, 75(7). 298
ovcrloc:ktd edg<, 49. '9( IO)
pinked. 43, H. 53(1), 59CII.I2).
6'1(19). 65(24), 73(1,2)
pJJn CUI. 44
rolled uvrrlockcd cclgrng, 49
atln-U~<htd edging, 47-48. 53(2),
16~23)
.....Is. 2&1{5)
oh!mng. 37(18)
Sec also blndrng
137(9)
gllcred >UtchmJ.:
5'1(4). 75(6)
Index
dellnltlon, 55
dt~lgn!t, nllovcr and scrolled. 56,
59(11)
doublc-.hcll, 56, 60(13)
headed. 58, 61(17,18)
lAyered. 57, 60(14.15), 6 1(18).
65(26)
"''""d. high, 56. 59(10.12), 60(13),
293(30,31)
maed. low, 56, 58(9), 290(22)
puffed. 57. 60(14)
sccunng the ends, 57
>pread-scam or shirred, 55. 60(14).
61(17)
tucked, 57, 60{14)
Sec aIS<> double-pomttd dans
... m..-hu\i:,
O..t pltot,, <ll-97
;)no\~C'mcnh, f'\2, Ot, Ql
2-27
all-sides, 21- 27
descropuon. 2
rurrowing . 9, 21
methods. 3-6
opposue edge, 16-20
Ingle edge. 10-15
>tabtlizing, 6-9
G
gallotred corded 1ubong. 284(4)
f!O(l4,J,), lii(J6),l'10ClO,ll)
I
lOG
gode\S, 80-86
defimtion. 81
de>enpuon, 80
H
Haight. Ernest B., 219
half-rounds, 247-50
definouon, 247
construction, 247-49, 250(16,17,18)
raised strippong. 249
handkerchief edge. 83-84
hand quilung, 209-16
back.<titched, 213, 216(3), 225(7).
295
basting !he layers together, 210- II ,
214
definiuon, 209
echo, 206, 209, 210, 2 16(3)
envelope edge, 214, 222, 226( 10),
227(11)
Oat, 214, 235(6)
methods, 212-13
liningbinding. 214
running-stitched. 211-12, 213,
215(1,2), 216(3)
stabstitched, 2 n. 297
stipple, 209,210, 215(2)
t)ng, 214, 216(-1)
See aIS<> hand-sewn corded qualung;
stuffed quilting: trapunto
hand-sewn corded qmlung. 188-93
defimuon. 188
single-fabric cording, 191, l93(-t,5)
stitching and cordmg. 188-90, 191,
192(1,2), 193(3)
stnng-guided yam cordtng, 190
trnpunto, 191,232, 234(1)
J
ntttrUPicd
t\l('ks.
Su undt'r P.'nlally..
~.1med tuck.~
K
kcvhole tucks
5 under contoured tuek5
"'" pi~!>. 93
~nu< pie><>. Su undu Rat pleatS
I~
196(6), 197(8),
198(10)
- 1~. 195.
cording wltile
dellninoa. 1~
floaters. 195 196 197(9) 198(10 12)
SUtgle-fabnc. IWIR--.u.' 195
198(11)
19(16,17,18), 24(14).290(19)
292(26)
p
partial pleats. 96-102
definition, 98
drafting pon<rll>. 98
txtcnsoon, 98-99. 100, 100(10),
101(11.12). 102(13)
SCItn, 98. 99. 102(11,15)
uo<krlays, 98, Q9, 101(12). 102(13)
Set also flat pleats. lowm:d ulease
m-.d applications
double-edged dmdar n
76(8)
l>UDC<S,
72
points
dtl'mition. 175
tnterrupted, 175,177(13,41)
released, 175. 176(10,41,12)
M
machine quilting. 217-27
art quilting. 222, 226(8.9). 294(33)
basung the layers together, 217-18,
221
modular quilting
envelope edge finish. 214, 222,
226(10), 227(11)
227(12.13)
291(25)
226(10)
m~nder,
227(11)
dc6nition. 38
desgn CJ<amples. 38. 39(21,22.13),
40(24.25)
meander, 38,10(26). 289(18).
290(22)
dcfimtion. 217
envelope edge. 214, 222. 226(10),
218, 226(8,9)
modular, 221. 227(12, 13)
openwork mtm-modules. 222-23.
226(10)
N
needle-Conned pleating. 118. 123(43)
Index
307
1>2-M
.A\uomaueally fomled wuh the naffier,
(>), M(l9,20)
box/uwenrd. 63. 65(24,25)
dcfinauon. 62
headC'd and !aye~. 63. M(25,26)
>preadst"am 63. 6S(2))
ty~
descnptton, 88
double-comrolird', 118-23
fl:u. 91- 97
hemmmg n.u and pani.el, 90-91
panoal. 98-102
pressmg, 89-90
profiles, 90
projccung, 10.3-10
wnnkled. 115-17
quihmg. 20<1-27
batung, 206-i
descnptton. 204
double-bmdmg edge fimsh, 207.
215(2)
hand'. 209-16
joan1ng modular unilS. 208-9.
227(12.13)
mach me. 217-27
~nsferring designs. 205-6
Su aL<o handsewn corded quilLing:
shell apphcallons
hem fimsh lor ruffies. 46, 5'1(4)
rufnes. 52. 54(5). 56, 60(13)
tucks, 161(20.21). 161-62
shells, 284(5)
Stuffed quilting
rcleasrd tucks.
shirring, 28-40
automaticall)' gathered, 31, 33(4),
35(9,12)
5
sau,..ge:.. Stt undtr btscuits
S<am allowance finishmg, 69
conrrolled pluts
puffed apphCJtlon~
nnd 41CCb~orfes
binder foot, 45
zmn.
308
gathering foot. 5, 38
hemmer rool. 47
open-roe embroidery loot, 219, 2)7
ovcredge foot, 48
pm-ruek loor,ltvegrooved, 154
rurner. 5. 63
spring needle, 219
smnghtStllch foot, 219
ror tucking. 152-53, 154
twin needle, 154, 195
walking foor. 219
zig-zag foor. 219
zig-z;~g foot, grooved b..e, 195, 2J7
"""''"~ fom,
lllgfoot, 219
d11rnlng 'J>rlng, 2 J 9
g:uhering, 10-15
I>'"<
~
,-vnoour<d. 10-11. 14(6)
ctdanit1on, 10
dr.opc<l. 10. 13(5)
fullness. 3. 10. 12(1,2). 13(3,4)
, ,vcd. 11. 12, H(7,8). 15(10,11).
1
..til~
19(16)
d:uts
.inglcpoimed dans, 268-74
con,.crtcd to scams, 272, 2 74(5),
288( 15.16)
clefimtton, 268
doubl<daad<tnetrocl IIICb, ~
152.153. I 56(6)
graduated, 150-~1. 155(f)
gratnlme d<vtanono, 154 , l59(l 6)
Dlock pin, 154, l~H,I5)
pon, 1~0-51. 155(1), 1~13)
random,l54, 157(12)
spaced,I'!0-51, 155(2), 290(19),
291(25)
tapered, 150-51, 152, 15~54
156(7,8), 159(16)
ns.
Index
309
<tllfft1\l:. 22~
apphq\lt, HI>--! I
bl'-C'\UI\. 2S8-()l
clCY-1flA cu1 opc-n'"&S 230
connwtd rolls', 2SI-S3
dC'"oCnpuon. 228
u
under!). 9'1, 98. 99. 101(12), 102(13)
undulaung 1udcs
Set undtt cro,s.-smdttd tucks
w
welting. Stt undtr surface cording.
piping ond welting
wrinkled pleaclng, 115-17
hmom<tlck, 11 ~. 116. 11 i(29),
289(17)
contortion. 115. 116, 1 17(30)
defnlition. 115
T
tabs. 221. 227(11)
t~pered
ticned applications
corcular nounccs. 72. 76(10)
ruffits. 51. 53(3)
crossscilched, 171-72
CrO>SUICked, 173-74
curved, 160-61
descnpuon, 148
'tamIus, 178-82
shell. 161-62
tlashed, 167-70
6ctnd~rd, 150..,9
lJO
311
Colette Wolff lives dndi works In Nel"' \tprk City, whet~,-(1pr studl9$ ol the Cos}Ume
Institute otthe MetropOlitan MtJseUm q} Art Inspired this book, She Is o well-known
and highly regorded quilt artist ond do/lmakei whose articles on sewing. quilting
ond dollmoking ore revered for'fhelr metiCulous. ln<Jepfh research.
S29.95
S37.50 In Conodo
ISB N 0-80198496 - 3
ifi i