DO's
Touch something metallic before you handle anything hardware related. You don't
want any static buildup to discharge onto your fragile motherboard. When installing
in the case, plug in the PSU and leave the switch off to ground the case as well.
Align the CPU, PSU, RAM, Cooler, and everything else the right way. (If you have 2
sticks of RAM and there's 4 slots it doesn't mean they go next to each other. Make
sure they're in the right slots)
Use about the size of a grain of rice for your thermal paste (or half a pea size) in
the center of the CPU before applying the heatsink.
Put on the I/O panel before the motherboard.
Screw in the "stand-offs" or mounts before installing the motherboard in the case.
(These prevent shorts aka fires!)
Don't forget to flip the switch of the PSU to "on" when finished installing.
Remove standoffs that you're not using. The extra ones can short out circuits on
the underside of the board. You can also scratch the traces and permanently ruin
the motherboard.
Verify if your video card requires two separate power cables or not and that you
have the correct cables coming from your PSU.
Read motherboard manual for front io connector help. (power, reset, hdd status,
etc)
Always put the SSD on a 6 Gb/s port, and always use the chipset-native ports (on
the Intel or AMD controller) first. Don't use the marvel/aftermarket sata controllers
unless you absolutely need to.
With some CPU coolers it's wise to install the mounting bracket BEFORE installing
the mobo in the case because the heatsink mount sometimes has to be installed
UNDER the MOBO.
Plan out your airflow before installing your fans into your case. Usually there's an
exhaust on the back, and and an intake on the front. Therefore, your CPU cooler
should blow toward the back of the case.
Build your PC out of the case before you build it in the case, and start with the
minimum - mobo, 1 stick of ram, processor and GPU - then build it up from there.
This will save you a ton of headache if one of your parts is defective. Most build it on
top of the motherboard box or some insulating surface.
Make sure a big aftermarket CPU cooler will fit if you buy or are using high-profile
(tall) RAM.
Mistakes
Don't overspend! You probably won't need a 1000W PSU, $300 mobo, or even SLI.
Don't cheap out on PSU's. It can be the most important part in a build.
Don't buy a PSU with a 220/110V switch. It means it won't have Power Factor
Correction too! If you do have one make sure it's set to 110V if you're in the USA.
Buying a case too large for their needs. Unless you're planning on many HDD's
and a super overclocking watercooling unit, don't do it.
Installing too many fans. A few large fans can move as much air as speedy, loud
small ones.
Not planning ahead. GPU's/PSU's/Coolers can all conflict in some way if you don't
plan and read ahead.
Slowly collecting parts. What if one of the parts that is sitting there idly is
defective and the 30-day return / replacement is now obsolete?
often 3-pin. Fancier motherboards may have 4-pin case fan headers, but these are
backwards compatible.
Those tabs on the IO shield should not actually go inside any ports/jacks. They
should also not be bent off as they act as grounding agents. The main one to look
out for is the one near the LAN port.
Some CPU's are meant for overclocking, some aren't. Usually a 'k' means it's
unlocked and overclockable.
Make sure the monitor is on the right input
Buying an Optical Drive is usually not needed anymore. Everything can be done
with a flash drive these days. The only thing you might use a DVD drive for on a
new computer is installing the LAN driver but even then Window 8 should find it for
you. Therefore, it's handy to have a laptop or backup computer when going the nonoptical drive route.
When removing a PCI-Express or SATA cable, be sure to disengage the card with
the unlocking-mechanism attached to the mobo
Backup obviously before reformatting.
SSD's if you can afford them are amazing.
Most people are just find with on-board audio these days.