GStar Case Study

DEVELOPINGAN
ENVIRONMENTAL
CORPORATESTRATEGY
CaseStudy:GStarRawand
ResponsibleManagement
AMSTERDAMFASHIONINSTITUTE
INTERNATIONALFASHION&MANAGEMENT
GRADUATIONTHESIS
AUTHOR:RICARDOCAMPOA
PROCESSCOACH:PATRICIABRIEN
PERIOD:OCTOBER07MAY08

DevelopinganEnvironmentalCorporateStrategy
CaseStudy:GStarRawandResponsibleManagement
GraduationThesis
SubmittedtotheAMFIProgrammein
InternationalFashion&Managementas
fulfilmentoftherequirementsforthedegree
ofBachelorofFashionTechnologyatthe
AmsterdamFashionInstitute
May2008
Author
RicardoCampoa
InternationalFashion&Management
Studentnr:199870
Period:October2007May2008
Amsterdam,TheNetherlands
ProcessCoach
PatriciaBrien
MasterofArts(EnglishLiterature)
LecturerinFashionStudies
SecondReader
MirjamGoedkoop
HeadofAMFIDepartmentFashion&
Management
Preface
The reason for this report is a personal newfound awareness about environmental
affects of the fashion industry as a result of the internship at TUBE, a company
concerned with improving accessories design through solutions that respect the
ecologicaldevelopmentoftheplanet.
Todealfirsthandwiththeseconcerns,duringthetimeatTUBE,ledtothedesireof
deepening the knowledge and state of the industry in regards to its increasing
environmental impact, sustainable solutions and how can other companies be
helpedfurther.
Researching for and elaborating this final graduation report was a gratifying and
fulfillingexperience,whichwoulddefinitelynothavebeenpossiblewithoutthehelp,
guidanceandsuggestionsofthefollowing:PatriciaBrien,StuartSu,CamillaEricsson,
Fabrice Justin, Amelia Gois, Paula Pontes, Zsarek Ailer and at last all of those who
participatedontheonlinesurvey.
CONTENTS
1.Introduction.......................................................................................................6
2.EnvironmentalConcerns,IndustryandClimateChange.................9
2.1Changesinclimatebehaviour
2.2Significanceandenvironmentalimpactofclothingindustryanddenimsector
2.3Summary
3.TheFashionIndustryandSustainableBusinessModels.....................................17
3.1Definitionofsustainability
3.2Problemdefinitionforbusinesses
3.3Sustainablebusinessmodels
3.4Summary/Recommendations
4.SustainabilityandConsumerTrends..................................................................24
4.1Evolutionofconsumertrends
4.2Buyingbehaviours
5.EcologicalDesign...............................................................................................26
5.1CradletoCradletheories
5.2Theimportanceofdesigninsustainablebusinessmodels
5.3Designinglegendaryjeansthatremainlegendary
6.ProductionOfNaturalFibres:TheCottonCase..................................................30
6.1Overviewandfacts
6.2Thedenimindustry
6.3Environmentalimpactsofnonorganiccropsvs.organiccrops
6.4Organiccottonandfairtrade
6.5Geneticallymodifiedcrops
6.6Otheralternativefibres
7.InternationalCertifyingOrganizations...............................................................36
7.1.1TheEuropeanUnionandtheFlowerLabel
7.1.2EkoLabel
7.1.3OekoTex100
7.1.4InternationalOrganizationforStandardization
7.1.5OrganicExchange
7.2NonCertifyingOrganizations........................................................................39
7.2.1MVANederland
7.2.2TheCleanClothesCampaign(InterviewwithGeertJanDavelaar)
7.2.3Summary/Recommendations
8.EnvironmentallyResponsibleDenimBrands......................................................43
8.1VFCorporation
8.2LeviStrauss
8.3NudieJeans
8.4Kuyichi
8.5DelForteDenim
8.6Jack&Jones
9.GStarRaw:Adenimstorywithinnovativedesignedge....................................49
9.1History
9.2Marketing
9.3Advertising
9.4Products
9.5Finance
9.6Stores
10.MarketResearch.............................................................................................54
10.1Researchmethodology
10.1.1Secondaryresearch
10.1.2Primaryresearch
10.1.3Hearingitfromthebuyingplace
10.1.4Findings
10.1.5Conclusions
10.1.6Directinterviews
10.1.7Howdoesecoinmainstreambrandshopfloorslooklike?
11.AdvisoryreportforGStarsenvironmentalstrategy.......................................63
11.1Currentenvironmentalefforts
11.2Newstrategyandobjectives
11.3Businessunitandfunctionallevelsolutions
12.Conclusion.......................................................................................................70
References
Bibliography
Appendices
CHAPTER1.INTRODUCTION
Thepurposeofthisthesisistodevelopanenvironmentalcorporatestrategy
usingGStarRawascasestudy.Morespecifically,themainobjectiveofthe
projectistoformulateacorporatestrategythatcanbeusedbyGStartobecome
moreenvironmentallysoundandcomplementitscurrentCorporateSocial
Responsibility(CSR)programme.
Thisstrategywillpresentenvironmentalobjectivesandthebestpracticesto
achievethembysuggestingpracticalstepsandstrategicsolutionsthatcanbe
implementedbyanydenimlabelthatmustintegrateenvironmentaldecisionsin
dailyoperationsandlongtermplanning.
Environmentalimpactsofthefashionindustryaremostrelatedtopolluting
activitiesandtheextensiveuseofresourcesanditisonlyrecentlywiththe
widespreadacceptanceoftheimpactofclimatechangeandglobalwarmingthat
thepublichascometoacknowledgehowindustrialprocessesareinterfering
withecologyinvariousdegreesandeffectiveactionneedstobetaken.
Thegoalofthisreportistounderstandtheenvironmentalimpactoftheindustry
andprovideastrategic/tacticalimplementationplanforjeansbrands,in
particularGStar,toattendtoecologicalconcernsbutremaineconomically
competitive.AsGStar,thereareothermajorindustryplayersthathavenot
compliedwiththerequisiteofenvironmentalsustainabilityandforthose
companiesthisthesisrepresentsavaluableguidelineandreferencepoint.
Thisthesisisalsomeanttoinformstudents,relatedprofessionalsandthe
generalpublicaboutthestateoftheclothingindustryinregardsto
environmentalstewardshipandalsoorganizationsthatprovideassistancein
dealingwithenvironmentalissuesandwhatmeasurescanbetakentomanage
andavoidnegativeimpacts.
Concernswithsocialissuesinthetextileindustryarenotdiscussedaspartofthe
strategicplanaswellasspecificfinancialoutcomesderivingfromthe
implementationofthestrategy.Thethesiswillonlyfocusinintegratingproduct,
planetandprofitasnatureandcommercemustthriveandgrowparallel.
ThedecisiontouseGStarasacasestudyisaresult,asmentionedearlier,froma
lackofacomprehensivecorporateresponsibilityprogrammefocusingonthe
environmentandalsoduetoaccusationsmadebytheCleanClothesCampaign
(CCC),during2006,thatGStarsproducersdonotproperlyrespectlabourlaws
anddonotmeetthebrandsstandards.Theattentionputonthisissuehas
alertedconsumersandthemarketforGStarsperhapsdubiousactionsand
thereforerequiringthebrandtobecomemoretransparentandtalkpublicly
aboutitsbusiness.
Toaccomplishtheaimofthisprojectthefollowingresearchmethodologyis
used:first,deskresearchinbackgroundstudiesandliteraturereviewinorderto
understandthecomplicacieswiththedefinitionofenvironmentalsustainability
intheclothingindustryanddenimsector,alsotheroleoflegislation,non
governmentalorganizations(NGOs)andtheconsumer;andthenempirical
researchisaccomplishedbymeansofconsumerbasedonlinequestionnairesto
recognizenewconsumerattitudestowardsenvironmentalissuesandifitrelates
toshiftsinbuyingbehaviours;shopobservationstoexperiencehoweco
productsarebeingcurrentlymarketedandfinallydirectinterviewswith
professionalswithinthesphereofsustainablefashionwheredifferentissues
regardingthesubjectathandswerediscussed.
Thereforeitisimportanttomentionthattheintentofthisreportisnot
understandandimprovesocialelementsofmanagement,orintegratepeople,
planetandprofit.Nevertheless,itisimpossibletoformulateastrategy
concernedwithenvironmentalimpactwithouttheemergenceofsometypeof
socialbenefit.
Intherealmofsocialconditionsandfairlabourpracticesthereareorganizations
andmultistakeholdersinitiativesthathavestartedtotacklethesocialproblems
andnetworkshavebeencreatedtohelpworkersindifferentpartsoftheworld
tofightfortheirhumanlyrights.Inwhatconcernstheplanetandtheindustrial
damagebeingcausedtoit,theeffortsarebyfarreachingthesameresultsasin
thesocialresponsibilityarea.Maythisthesishelpclarifyfashions
environmentalproblemandstimulateforthedevelopmentofabetterandmore
concernedindustrywithallitssurroundings.
1.2ProblemDefinitionandSubquestions
Developinganenvironmentalcorporatestrategy.
A case study on how G-Star can become greener in its business.
Note: The brand G-Star is only used as an example for any other fashion denim
company that sees the need to care for the environment. This report is meant to help
and guide on establishing an environmental policy.
1. Whyareweconcernedwiththeproblemsofthefashionindustry?
(Chapter2)
2. Whatarethebusinessmodelswecanlookattocleanfashionup?
(Chapter3)
3. WhatconsumerstrendsofnowmustGStarlookatinordertoavoidbeing
pushedbybadPR?
(Chapter4)
4. Whatmodelsofsustainability,indesign,canGStarlookat?
(Chapter5)
5. HowcanGStarusecottondifferently?
(Chapter6)
6. WhoshouldGStarturntowhenmakingtheshift?
(Chapter7)
7. Fashiondenimbrandsarealreadyshiftingpractice,whoshouldGStarlookto
forinspiration?
(Chapter8)
8. HowcanGStardenimstory,withinnovativedesignedge,becomegreener?
(Chapter9)
9. Howdoesecoinmainstreambrandshopfloorslookslike?
(Chapter10)
Eachsubquestionisdiscussedintheendoftherespectivechapterbymeansofa
criticalsummary/recommendations.
CHAPTER2.ENVIRONMENTALCONCERNS,INDUSTRYANDCLIMATE
CHANGE
Whyareweconcernedwiththeproblemsofthefashionindustry?
Thefashionindustryhasseveralundesiredimpactsintheenvironmentandit
hasonlybeenrecentlywiththechangesobservedinclimateandglobalwarming
thattheseimpactshavebeenstronglyobservedandtakenintoaccount.The
extensiveuseofresourcesandmainlypollutionresultingfromdifferent
processesandsystemsinthefashionindustrycannotbutbelinkedwiththe
environmentalchangesobservedtodayandtreatedasoneoverallissue.This
chaptermakestheconnectionbetweenglobalwarmingandindustrialprocesses
andhowtherecentfocusinclimatechangeshasbroughtattentiontofashions
environmentalproblems.
2.1ChangesinClimateBehaviour
TheUnitedNationsIntergovernmentalPanelonClimateChange(IPCC),accepted
astheleadingorganizationontheoverallimpactofclimatechange,assuresthat
theworldmustreversetheincreaseofgreenhouseemissionsintothe
atmosphereby2020toavertfurtherdisastrousenvironmentalconsequences.
Thedestructionoftheplanetsnaturalecosystems,whichworkasanatural
absorberforcarbonemissions,isaugmentingthedischargeofgreenhousegases
intotheatmosphereresultinginunexpectedandirreversiblechangesinclimate
behaviourwitnessedalreadybymany.
InFebruary2007,theIPCCpublishedthefourthassessmentreport,elaborated
by388expertsandscientists,asabenchmarkingreportforpolicymakers.The
summaryisafollowupofthepast6yearsofresearchbytheIPCC,makinguseof
morecomprehensivefindingsandscientificresearchthatledtoabetter
understandingofessentialdata,processesandmodelsimulationregarding
climatechange.ThefourthICCPreportisfocusedonunderstandingthehuman
andalsonaturalfactorsinfluencingclimatechangeandprojectingfuture
estimatesofclimatechange.(IPCC,2007)
TheIPCCdefinesclimatechangeasanyalterationresultingfromnatural
variabilityorhumanactivity.Itistheimpactofhumanactivityonecologythat
theUnitedNationswantsmosttoconveytogovernmentsandconsumers.
Furthermorethereportexcelsinprovinghowchangesintheatmospheric
abundanceofgreenhousegasesandaerosols,insolarradiationandinlandsurface
propertiesaltertheenergybalanceoftheclimatesystem.Thesechangesare
expressedintermsofradiativeforcing,whichisusedtocomparehowarangeof
humanandnaturalfactorsdrivewarmingorcoolinginfluencesonglobalclimate.
(IPCC,2007)
WhenitcomestotheemissionofgreenhousegasestheIPCCexposesthatsince
1975thepresenceofcarbondioxide,methaneandnitrousoxideinthe
atmospherehaveraisedconsiderably,mainlyasaconsequenceofhuman
activity.Theescalatingconcentrationsofcarbondioxideareattributedmainlyto
landusechangeandfossilfuel,whileagricultureisresponsibleforthoseof
methaneandnitrousdioxide.(IPCC,2007)
Figure1showshowatmospheric
concentrationsofgreenhousegasesgofar
beyondpreindustrialvaluesdetermined
fromicecoresspanningmanythousandsof
years.Thelargerpanelsrepresenticecore
dataandthesmallerinsertpanelsthe
concentrationofgasessince1975where
emissionshaveincreasedexaggeratedly
comparingtoicecoredata.
Butthreatscomingfromtheemissionof
greenhousegasesgofarbeyondarisein
temperatures.TheICCPreport(2007)
expressesconcernswiththeincreasingrate
towhichspeciesarebeingextinct,(a
hundredtimesfasterthantherateinthe
fossilperiod);rapidriseofsocalleddead
zones,wheremarinelifenolongercanbe
supported,asaresultofdepletionofoxygen
causedbypollutantsasfertilizersand
currentchangesinbiodiversitybeingthe
fastestinhumanhistory.
InthereportANewSeawrittenbyDr.Rob
Huebert(2008)andcommissionedbythe
WorldWildFundsInternationalArctic
Programme,ananalysisoftheArctics
currentstatepointstotheinevitable
alterationstheEarthissufferingfrom
displacementofclimatesnaturalorder.
Figure1Changesinatmosphericconcentrationsofcarbondioxide,methaneandnitrousoxide.The
datapresentedinthelargerpanelsrepresentstheconcentrationsinthelast10000yearsandthe
insidepanelssince1975.Theatmosphericsamplesareinredandthemeasurementsfromicecore
havedifferentcolorstodistinguishbetweenstudies.(Source:ICCP4thReport,UnitedNations,2007)
TheecologicalalterationsthattheArcticissufferingaresaidtotransform
irreversibly,inaverynearfuture,thehomeofthepolarbearandwalrus(see
Figure2)butalsothelifeof4millionpeoplethatliveinthevicinityoftheArctic
Ocean.TheWWFreport(Huebert,2008)impliesthatglobalwarminghas
instigatedthesealterationsfasterthantheyshouldoccur.Theresultisan
acceleratedmodificationofcrucialconditionsoflifeintheArcticregionsin
followingdecades.
10
The2004ArcticClimateImpactAssessmentandmorerecentclimatestudies
indicatethatthealterationsbeingfeltintheregionareduetoglobalwarming
andaretransformingthefabricoftheentirepolarregion(Huebert,2007).
ItisintheArcticOceanthattemperaturesarerisingmorethaninanyother
regionoftheplanet,whichmeansthaticeismeltinganddisappearing,with
somescientistspredictingthatby2050theregionwillbeicefreeinsummer
(Huebert,2007).
Themostrecentsatellitesstudy
oftheicecoverintheArctichas
founda9%perdecadelossofice,
insteadofthe3%meltrateper
decadethoughttobesincethe
70s.
ThesedevelopmentsintheArctic
regionareanexampleofhow
climatechangeandglobal
warmingrepresentsachainof
Figure2WalrusinArcticicefishingforshellfishon
linkedeventsratherthatisolated theoceanfloor.Inthefuturewiththesingleavailable
ones.Risingtemperatures,caused iceplatformmovingtodeeperanddeeperwater,
walrusmayfacecomplicaciesfeedingtheiryoungs.
bycarbondioxideemissions,melt Source:ANewSea(WWF,2008)
icepacks,whichwillincreasesea
levelsandobstructthenaturalorderandfunctioningofecologicalsystems.
Althoughglobalwarmingwasidentifiedalmostacenturyago,itisonlyvery
recentlywiththerapidriseofthesealevel,erraticweatheranddevastating
disasterslikeHurricaneKatrina,thatbecamepresentineveryonesmindthe
realityofthissituationthatcannotgobyunannounced,itisnotanymoreamere
forecastorprediction,theconsequencesofgreenhousegasemissionsand
worryingincreasesinaveragetemperaturearebecomingvisibleandproving
itselftobeaconcerndifficulttooverlook.
Theconsumerandthepublicingeneralisnow,morethanever,awareofthese
problematicsituationsandcaneasilyunderstandthelinkbetweentheemission
ofgreenhousegasesanderraticclimatealterations.Thecurrentrealityofglobal
warmingandtheneedforinnovativeenvironmentalsolutionsinindustrial
processesanddaytodaylifeisanextensivelyexploredtopicindailymedia.
NGOs,highrankingpoliticalfigures,likeMikhailGorbachevforLouisVuittons
ClimateProject(2008)andevencelebritiesfromdifferentartisticvenues,as
AndreAgassi,CatherineDeneuve,KeithRichardsandLeonardoDiCapriohave
takenastrongpositionindivulgatingthecurrentproblemsandalertingthat
actionsneedstobetakennowinordertoavoidthedetrimentalaffectsof
environmentaldegradationinourecosystems.
Despitedivergingandcontroversialopinionsonthematter,theurgencyofglobal
warmingandtheneedforactionagainstclimatechangehasgainedhuge
momentumin2007.FirstwiththeeyeopenerdocumentaryentitledAn
11
InconvenientTruth,releasedin2006bytheformerVicePresidentAlGore,
whichobtainedanAcademyAwardandmostimportantlytranspiredtosocietya
groupoffactsandscientificreasoningovertheglobalwarmingissue.Secondthe
awardoftheNobelPeacePrizetotheIPCCandconsequentlyMr.Gore,awokein
themindsofgovernments,industriesandthepublic,evenifpoliticaladversaries
dismissedandlabelledtheconclusionsoverclimatechangeasalarmistand
exaggerated,fortheneedofenvironmentalsolutionsandsustainable
managementofindustriesandconsumption,italsomadetheconsumerawareof
howintenseindustrieslikefashionareontheenvironment.
2.2SignificanceandEnvironmentalImpactofClothingIndustryandDenimSector
Sincethepreviousyearhasbeenconcernedwithissuestodowiththe
environment,overlytalkedaboutindebates,mediaandinconferenceswhere
worldleadersmeet,industriesandcompaniesstarttobetakenaccountablefor
havingornotgreensolutionstotheirbusinesspractices.Greenhousegases
emissions,pollutionanduntameduseofresourcesareresponsibleforthe
ecologicalchangesthatarebeingfeltintheplanetandtheyrepresenttheby
productofmanyindustrialsectors,includingapparelanddenim,onwhichthis
thesisisfocused.
Theclothingindustryanddenimsector,duetothegrowingimportanceofglobal
warming,mustlookatitsownecologicalimpactsandwontbeabletoignore
theminthefuture,environmentalissuesarenowbundledtogetherbecauseof
globalwarmingawarenessanditisbecauseofthisthatthefashionindustry
mustchangeinordertobecomeenvironmentallysound.
Butenvironmentalissueshavingbeeninbusinessagendassincethelastdecade,
despitemediasrecentlyhelptoputthemessageacrossmoreeffectivelytothe
public,environmentalmanagementhasbeenanincreasinglyimportantissuein
contemporarybusinessmanagement,policymakingandstrategicplanning
(Schaper,2002).Manymultinationalcompaniesandlargecorporationshave
alreadybeenstimulated,bylegalandpublicpressure,toincorporate
environmentalgoalsintotheircorporatestrategy,topublicizetheiractionsand
tocontributetotheheightenedawarenessamongallbusinessofenvironmental
issues(Kassinis,2001).
Today,morethanbefore,companiesarefacingpressurefromlocalandnational
governmentsandtheincreasinglyenvironmentallyawareconsumer(discussed
inChapter4)todevelopproducts/services/processesthatrespectnatureand
tackleenvironmentalproblems.
Thetextileanddenimsectorareoneofthoseindustriestobeholdaccountable
dueperhapstoitssizeortoitslikenessofnewproducts,deliveredatarecord
time.TheclothingandtextileindustryamountstoaworthoverUS$1Trillion
worldwide,itemploysapproximately26millionpeopleandcontributesto7%of
worldexports(Allwoodetal.,2006).Itconsistsofimportantprofitstocksand
developmentofmanycountriesintheworld,andpartlyofdevelopingcountries.
12
IntheEU,120,000textileandclothingcompaniesemploymorethan2million
workers,accountingfor7%ofthetotalmanufacturingemployeesintheEU
industry(EuropeanCommission,2008).Lookingatthedenimsectorinspecific,
theglobaljeansmarketatUSdollarretailvalueshasincreasedfromUS$50.5bn
toUS$51.6bnsince2004until2007,thisrepresentsagrowthofUS$1.1bn,an
increaseof2.2%overthisthreeyearperiod(Newbery,2007)
Jeansconsumptionperperson,in2007,issaidtohavefallen0.1jeans(from0.28
jeansperyearto0.27)perpersonperyearprimarilyduetostagnatingand
agingpopulationsofWesternEuropeancountries.Furthermore,unitretail
priceshavealsofallenby1.3%,in2007,drivendownwardsbylowcostcountry
sourcingofbothjeansanddenim.(Newbery,2007)
Butinordertounderstandbetterthejeansmarketitisimportanttoobserveits
majorregionalmarkets;Table1showstherelationshipbetweenjeansretail
valuesandpopulation.
Table1JeansRetailMarketandPopulation,2007(Source:Newbery,2007)
Asthetableshowsabove,themainpointstoconsiderarethatin2007,85%of
thejeansretailvaluemarket(1%decreasesince2004)belongstothedeveloped
countrieswith14%oftheworldspopulation,whiletherestoftheworld
registered15%oftheretailvaluemarket(1%risesince2004)with86%ofthe
worldspopulation.(Newbery,2007)
Thesedifferencesbetweenretailspendingandpopulationstillexistbuthave
beendiminishingslowly.Itissaidthatthesedisparitiesrepresentmajor
concernsforthedenimandjeansindustriesasthedevelopingcountriesare
forecasttocounterbalancethegrowthinconsumptioninthefuture,
representinghowglobalizedthejeansmarketisbecoming.
Asanimportantandgrowingindustryintonewmarketsandopportunities,the
apparelanddenimsectorhasbeenresponsiblyforaffectingtheplanetswelfare
almostsincethebeginningoftheindustrialrevolution.Todayitiseasyto
observetheuntamedrelationshipbetweenachievinghigherproductivityandthe
useofresourcesandpollution.Relyingonpowerfulprocessesaslogistical
systems,theproductionofnaturalfibreslikecotton,manufacturinganddying,to
nameafew,theapparelsectorseemstoheavilyparticipateintheshrinkingof
theearthnaturalresourcesandcontributetoundesiredecologicalimpacts.
13

ShownbelowinFigure3,aretheenvironmentalandalsosocialimpactsofthe
industryatthegeneralisedstagesofanormalgarment.
Figure3EnvironmentalImpactsofClothingIndustry(Source:www.forumforthefuture.org.uk)
Theoutstandingissuesaretheuseofelevatedamountschemicalsandpesticides
andhighquantityofwaterinharvestingcotton,productionandusageof
garments.TransportationisresponsibleforemissionsofCo2,whichare
inevitablywhetherbyplainorboat.Transportationbyseaisconsideredtobe
lesspollutantthough,astransporting1tonneofgoodsoveradistanceof100km
emits0.7kgofCo2byshipcomparedto158.0kgbyairplane(Defra,2007),
hencesomebrandsadherencetothelatterasanoptiontoreduceemissions.
SocialandalsoeconomicimpactsareconsideredinFigure3,duetothefactthat
adherencetosustainablesolutionsmightalsoresultinfinancialgainsfor
companies,brandsandworkersandhealthbenefitstothosewhoaredirectly
affectedbyfashionscurrentunsustainability(mainlyworkforceduring
manufacturingandproductionprocesses).
Inordertopresentasoundenvironmentalstrategy,thekeyissuesinecological
impactbytheapparelanddenimsectorneedtobeclearlydefined.Themain
concernstoretainare:
CottonProduction
Thetraditionalcottonharvest(10%oftheworldsagriculture)anditsfibre
productionentailtheheavyuseofpesticides(25%oftheworldstotal)(Hamnett,
2007),fertilizersandothernonregulatedsubstancesthatdamagethe
environmentandthehealthofworkers.Butalsothetotallifecycleofcottonthat
demandshighamountsofwaterandenergyandendsupinlandfillor
incineration,isnotsustainablebyfar.Theproductionofcottonanditsimpactis
explainedfurtherinChapter6.
14
UseofChemicals
Thereareseveralchemicals,fertilizerandmaterialsusedindifferentintensive
processeslikebleaching,washinganddyeingthataretoxic,damagesoil
conditions,waterqualityandbiodiversity.
Waterandenergyconsumptioninpretreatmentsandfinishingprocessesand
unprocessedwastegeneratedbyfactoryplantsalsorepresentsacriticalarea.It
issaidthataboutonehalfoftheworldswasteproblemsarerelatedtothe
productionoftextilegoods(McDonough,2002).
AnimalWelfare
Duringtheproductionofwool,leatherandevensilk,animalwelfaremustbe
assuredandregulated.Theproblemsarerelatedtocatching,breeding,
transportationandlivingconditionsofanimalsusedinthefashionindustry.
Transportation
Withcomplexsupplychainsandstepsintheindustry,thetransportationof
fabricsandclothingaroundtheglobebysuppliersandbrands,resultinsoaring
Co2emissionsduemainlytooutsourcedproductionindistantdeveloping
economies.
ClothingMaintenance
Whenconsumerswashanddrygarmentssignificantamountsofwater,
detergentandenergyareused,impactingtheenvironmentwithCo2emissions
andcontributingforclimatechange.Around80%ofgarmentscarbonfootprint,
dependingonthefabric,isgeneratedfromclothingmaintenanceandcare
(Collins,2002).
Disposal
Theendofthelifecycleofagarmentisinmostcaseslandfillsitesorincinerated,
theissuesarewithoilbasedfabricslikepolyesterthattakealongtimeto
decompose.Withtheunprecedentedgrowthoffashionconsumption,numerous
amountsofclothinglaydecomposingcontributingforfashionsgrowingcarbon
footprintandpollution.
Itisdifficulttoseparatetheclothingindustryfromthedenimsectorinregards
toitsenvironmentalimpact.Thekeyissuesabovearegeneralizedforthe
industryasawhole,jeansproductionsalsoentailsthesameproblemsrelatedto
finishingprocesses,washesandaesthetictreatmentsmainlylinkedwiththeuse
ofchemicalsduringproductionandmanyfactoriesthatproducejeansalso
produceothergarmentstyles.
Theprimordialproblemwiththeenvironmentalimpactofthedenimsectorlies
withtheextensivedemandanduseofthecottonfibre,pollutionandwideuseof
resources,butstillallofitsimpactsarecoveredintheissuespresentedand
thosearethepointsthatmustbeanalysedandtakenintoaccountbyapparel,
textileanddenimcompanieswhenconsideringenvironmentalmanagementand
diminishmentofnegativeecologicalimpact.
15
2.3Summary
Asexplainedinthebeginningofthechapter,importantbodiesofresearchlike
theIPCC,otherNGOsandindependentfigureshaveeffectivelyputacrossthe
urgencyofactionthatneedstobetakentocounterbalancetheseecologically
negativeresultsofuncontrolledindustrialmodelsandprocesses.
Tobecomegreenorsustainableisaconceptthatnow,theconsumeridentifies
asadirectapproachtocombatenvironmentaldamage,itdoesnotrepresentthe
sameapprehensionthatflourishedinthebeginningofthe90s,where
environmentalconcernswerebasedonrelativelysmallgroupsofindividuals,
identifiedalmostasantiindustrialandanticapitalistic,pushingproductsthat
werediscreditedduetopoordesignandlackofaestheticvalue.Perhapsthe
messagethenwasnottransmittedeffectivelyortheeffectsofglobalwarming
werenotfeltasvividlyascurrently.
Wearecurrentlyconcernedwiththeproblemsofthefashionindustrybecause
climatechangefocushasbroughtmuchawarenesstofashionsownecological
problems,itisbecauseofthisawarenessthatactionisnecessaryandattention
putoutinindustriesthatareconsideredcritical.Theclothingsectorasbeen
lookedatbecauseitsownprocessescausemuchpollutionandresourceuse.
Societybecameawareofenvironmentalproblemsandfashionhasbeentakenin
thearrayofproblemsandisexpectedtotakeonaproactiveattitude.
16
CHAPTER3.
THEFASHIONINDUSTRYANDSUSTAINABLEBUSINESSMODELS
Whatarethebusinessmodelswecanlookattocleanfashionup?
Asthepreviouschapterillustratedthenecessityofembracingsustainable
solutionsandprocesses,itisimportanttounderstandthedefinitionof
sustainability,itsdifferentinterpretationsandwhatitentails.Thepresent
chapterdiscussesthisdefinitionandalsohowmajorkeyindustryplayershave
takensustainablebusinessmodelsintocorporateroomsandwhatresultshave
beenachieved.Thereareimportantcompaniesandbrandsthataretryingto
pioneertheenvironmentalsustainabilityoffashion,andthosecompaniesare
importantforGStartoobserveandlearnfromthem.
Thosewhohavenotthoughtofenvironmentalmanagementofsomeordercan
nolongerignorethissituation,associalandgovernmentalpressureincreases.
Toembracesustainablesolutionsisaprocessthatgivesrisetosome
complicaciesduethecomplexityandglobalizationofsupplychainsinfashion
industry,provingdifficulttofocusinspecificissuesandarethosecomplicacies
thatthisthesiswantstoalerttobyexposingtheeffectivenessofsustainable
businessmodelssofar.
3.1DefinitionofSustainability
Sustainabilityhasbeentheagendaofindustriesandsomefashioncompaniesfor
sometimenow.Thesearchforsustainabilitythatwasinitiatedinthelate70s
andearly80sisconcernedwiththedifferentproblemsthatarisefromthe
modernindustrialcrisis.Oneofthemostimportantisconsideredtobe:the
depletionofnaturallifesupportsystemstoanalarminglevelandtheincapacity
oftheindustrialsystemtocorrectthisdepletion.Themodernindustrialcrisis
underminesnaturallifesupportsystems,whichleadstothelossofecosystems,
biodiversityandenvironmentalstability.
Theawarenessofthemagnitudeofdestructionhascompelledthecritical
examinationofthedefinition,meaningandconstituentsof'sustainability'.
InthereportentitledSustainableProductionandConsumption:ABusiness
Perspective,publishedin1996,bytheWorldBusinessCouncilforSustainable
Development(WBCSD),sustainableproductionandconsumptionisdefinedas
involvingbusiness,government,communitiesandhouseholdscontributingto
environmentalqualitythroughtheefficientproductionanduseofnatural
resources,theminimizationofwastesandoptimizationofproductsand
services.(WBCSDPolicyStatement,1995)
Thepursuitofsustainabilityinvolvesasearchforaproductionprocessthatis
basedonunderstandingnatureasasystemoflimitsandpossibilities,ofgrowth
andregeneration.Further,thispursuitshouldenhanceandrevitalizelifesupport
systemsinahumanscale.Accordinglysustainabilityisanyprocessthatcanbe
maintainedindeterminatelyandinitsenvironmentalusage,relatestotheability
17
ofsustainingcurrentandfutureecologicalbalance.Neverthelessthedefinitionof
sustainabledevelopmentseemstoencompassmanyfactorsandperspectiveson
environmental,socialandeconomicissues.TheUnitedNationsNGOCommittee
onSustainableDevelopment(UNNGOCSD)acceptstheBrundtlandCommissions
definitionofsustainability,whichwasadoptedbytheRioConference,1992.
Thisdefinitionofsustainability,agreedin1987bytheBrundtlandCommission,
generalizessustainabledevelopmentas:
Developmentthatmeetstheneedsofthepresentwithoutcompromisingthe
abilityoffuturegenerationstomeettheirownneeds".(UNNGOCSD,2008)
Furthermore,the
DeclarationofRioOn
Environmentand
Development,1992
identifiedthat
sustainable
developmentwasa
balanceofthree
dimensions:
environmental
protection,economic
growthandsocial
development.
(UNNGOCSD,2008)
Thediagramonthe
right,adoptedbytheRio
Diagram1ThreeDimensionConceptoftheDeclarationofRioonEnvironment
Conference,1992,
exemplifiesthistheory. andDevelopment(Source:http:www.unngocsd.org)
Asthediagramdemonstratessustainabledevelopmentcanonlybeconsideredif
theprocessiseconomicallyandenvironmentallyfriendlyandwheneveryonein
suchasocietyisensuredalivelihood.Theprocessesareinterconnectedandthe
definitiongoesbeyondsoleenvironmentalconcerns.
3.2ProblemDefinitionforBusinesses
Mostlargefirmsareawareoftheireffectsontheenvironmentandoften
seemtohavetheresourcestoimplementenvironmentalmanagement, which is
definedasmanagementofthoseactivitiesofafirmthathaveorcanhavean
impactontheenvironment(Starkey,1998).However,manysmallerfashion
companiesareoftenunawareofenvironmentalimpactandlacktheresourcesto
implementenvironmentalinitiatives(Biondietal.,2000;deBruijn,2000;
Friedmanetal.,2000),themajorityofwhichseemtohavebeendesignedfor
largecompaniesandlackinformationforthefashionindustryingeneral.
ResearcherssuchasHutchinson(1998),Merritt(1998)andAnglada(2000)
haveshownearlierthatmanycompanyowner/managershaveahighawareness
oftheirroleinenvironmentalremediation,andhaveastrongdesiretoactively
dosomething.However,moststudieshavereportedthatthereisoftenagreat
18
dealofdifferencebetweenthestatedattitudeofowner/managersandtheactual
environmentalperformanceoftheirfirms.
Developingvaguecodesofconductorcollectionsmarketed,asgreenoreco
tendtofurtherconfusetheconsumerandcannotbeconsideredassustainable
developmentoreffortstomanageenvironmentalimpact.Frequently,statements
incodesofconductcannotbeproperlycheckedandarenotexplanatoryenough.
Temporarysolutionsarenotsustainableasfarasfuturelivelihoodsofnatural
systemsanddonoofferthesufficienttransparencytostakeholdersand
consumers.
Furthermore,oftenbusinessesusethetriplebottomlineasatooltointegrate
sustainabilityintobusinessagenda,butfocusingonlyinpeople,environment
andeconomicconcernsmightcreatedifficultiesinpursuingdifferentdesign
opportunitiesthatgobeyondendofpipeinitiatives.
Thus,thefashionindustryrequiresassistanceandguidancetofindwaysto
improveitssustainableenvironmentalperformanceandactivenessandon
whichissuestofocusefforts.Someinitiativeshavebeendevelopedinvolving
governmentassistance,consultantsandenvironmentalorganizations,asaway
tostimulateenvironmentalaction.
Theuseofenvironmentalmanagementsystems(EMS)asISO140001that
provideaframeworkagainstwhichorganizationscanbecertified,isconsidered
toberathereffectiveinstimulatingenvironmentalmanagement.Thistypeof
standardisonlyconcernedwiththeimpactthatarisesfromproductionandnot
thelaterstagesofproductusage.Butotherthanlargefirmswithcomprehensive
plans,explainedlater,notmuchactionhasbeentakenbyothercompaniesto
encourageeffectiveandtransparentimprovementintheirenvironmental
performance.
3.3SustainableBusinessModels
Asmentioned,pressureonbusinessesregardingenvironmentalissueshasbeen
increasing,anditisbecomingclearthatthedemandsplacedonbusinessto
improveenvironmentalpracticeswillcontinuetogrowandhavean
influenceonhowcompaniesoperate(Kassinis,2001;Greenanetal.,1997).
Insteadofviewingthesedemandsasathreat,itisthoughtthatbusinesses
shouldseizetheopportunitytoimprovetheirenvironmentalperformance.It
isanticipatedthatthoseorganizationswhichrespondtothischallenge,will
reaptherewardsofacompetitiveedgeoverrivalswhofailtorecognize
environmentalissues.Hencenotonlyisitethicalforacompanytoimprove
itsenvironmentalperformance,butitmayalsobesoundbusinesspractice
(Greenanetal.,1997).
Asustainablebusinessmodelinthefashionandclothingindustryrequiresthe
inclusionofenvironmentalcriteriaintopurchasingpolicies,efficientproduct
designandthepromotionofamoresustainableconsumptionbyusingeffective
communicationandmarketingaboutproductinformation.
19
ImportantretailersasMarks&SpencerandlifestylesportbrandsasNikehave
pavedthewaytoothercompanieswhenitcometoenvironmentalinitiatives.
Theirstrategyandactionsprovesthatitispossibletostarttotackletheeminent
problemsandgainimportantresultsandadvantages,directlyconnectedwith
diminishingandavoidingfutureenvironmentalimpactsoftheclothingindustry
butalsoobtainingcompetitiveadvantage.
MARKS&SPENCER:5YearsPlanToMakeSustainabilityInThePresentandFuture.
Thecompanywasestablishedinthe
UKin1884,theheadquartersarein
Londonandithas702storesaround
theworldwith75.500employees.
Marks&Spencer(M&S)doesnotonly
sellclothingbutalsocarriesfoodand
homeproducts.Clothingmakesupfor
50%ofthegroupsturnover,set
aroundUSD$15.5bn,whilefoodmakes
upfor45%(Textiles,2007).
Figure4PlanAdisplayatM&Sstores(source:
www.core77.com)
LastJanuary2007,M&Sannounceditsbusinesswideenvironmentalplan.Plan
AasitisnamedissaidtocosttheretailerUSD$390mandwillimpactinthenext
fiveyearsallofitsbusinessoperations.
M&Smadethecommitmentthatby2012itwill(Textiles,2007):
Setimprovedstandardsinethicaltrading
Expandsustainablesourcing
Becomecarbonneutral
Dispatchnowastetolandfill
Helpandguidestaffandconsumersonhowtoliveahealthierlifestyle.
PlanAismadeupof100pointsandguidelinesconcerningfivemajorareas,
climatechange;waste;rawmaterials;fairpartner;andhealthyeating.Theeco
planissupposedtoirreversiblychangethewaythecompanydoesbusiness.
InaninterviewfortheTextilesMagazine(2007),M&SsChiefExecutive,Stuart
Rosehassaidthat,Everybusinessandindividualneedstodotheirbittotackle
theenormouschallengesofclimatechangeandwaste.Whilecontinuingtosell
greatquality,stylishandinnovativeproducts,ourcostumers,employeesand
shareholdersnowexpectustotakeboldstepsanddobusinessdifferentlyand
responsibly.Webelievearesponsiblebusinesscanbeaprofitablebusiness(Rose,
2007).
WithPlanA,M&Siscommittedtoimprovebusinessoperationscombining
sustainablepracticeswithbothpositiveandnegativeaspectsofglobalcorporate
sourcing.Morespecifically,thecommitmentsinthemostrelevantareasare
(Textiles,2007):
20
ClimateChange
AlloperationintheUKandNorthIrelandaretobecarbonneutral,
accomplishedbyreducingenergyuseandmaximisingtheuseof
renewables.M&Sexpects,withthis,tocutCo2emissionsby80%.Since
suppliersandconsumerscausesignificantamountsofemissions,theplan
alsointendstoinformandguidethemtoreducetheircarbonfootprint.
Storeswillbepoweredwithgreenrenewableenergy,makingM&S25%
moreenergyefficient.Thisisalsoaccomplishedbycreatingrenewable
energygeneratedbywastefromM&Sfoodhalls,farmsandfactories.
Carbonoffsettingisonlytobeusedasalastresortandalllorriesareto
runin50%biodiesel.
Waste
Stopsendingwastefromfactories,storesandwarehousestolandfill
Developingalternativewaysforclothingdisposal,asdonation,
compostingandrecycling.
Reductionofpackagingandcarrierbags.Packagingmaterialistobe
sourcedfromsustainableorrecycledsupplies(cardboard,metal,glass)
butstillM&Splanstoreducepackagingby25%.
Restrictionsonpackagingmaterialsandfocusingonmaterialsthatare
easytorecycle,socostumersdonotdisposeofthem.Thisincludesusing
fourtypesofplastic(cornstarchderivedplasticPLA,PP,PETandPE).
WithitM&Shopestouseaclosedloopwheneverpossible.
RawMaterials
Ensuringrawmaterialscomefromsustainablesources
Expandingtheorganiccottonranges,thatstartedwithbabyclothing
Workingwithcottonproducerstoensurethatmorefairtradeandorganic
fibresbecomeavailableeveryyear.
Usingrecycledplastic,likebottles,insteadofoiltoproducepolyesterfor
clothingandhomeproducts.Thefirstproductsinstorearerecycled
fleecetopsformen,saidtobeexpandedtoincludewomensand
childrensfleececlothingandlaterontoincludetrousers,suitsand
furniture.
Assuringanimalwelfarebyonlyusingleatherandwoolderivedfrom
sourcesthatrespectindependentstandards.
Suppliers
Helpingsupplierstoensureethicalandsustainableproductionandto
meetM&Simprovedenvironmentalstandards.
Stimulatinginnovationandhelpsupplierstosecurefundsforinvestment
insustainableproductionprocesses,workforcesandlocalcommunities.
WithPlanA,M&Sistakingboldstepsthattargetenvironmentalimpactbutalso
socialaspectsofitsbusiness,theplangoesbeyondameredevelopmentofaCSR
strategyordepartmentorintroducinganorganiccollection.Thestepsaretaken
toensurethefuturesustainabilityofallitsprocesses,startingatthe
manufacturingandsupplierlevel.ThecommitmentmadebyM&Sforthenext
fiveyearsandbeyond,targetsthecomplexsupplychainandthecompanyknows
thatitisnecessarytoraiseawarenessfromsuppliers,consumersandother
21
brandsbutalsosupplythetoolsinordertoensurethatenvironmental
challengescanbemet.
NIKE:UsingCradletoCradleAsAnInspirationForPolicy.
TheAmericansportsbrandwasoneofthemosttargetedcompaniesinthe90s
concerningCSRpractices,labourconditionsandoverallethicalbusiness
processes.ItcanbesaidthatNikehadtorespondtotheseproblemsinorderto
keepitsmarketshareandbrandvalue,butcertainlytheeffortsmadeinthelast
decadeseemtohavepaidoffandtheactionstakentowardsenvironmentaland
socialconcernscanbelookedatbyothercompaniesinordertoanalysehowa
keyindustryplayertooktheproblemsandturnthemintoadvantages.
NikehasoneofthemostcomprehensiveCSRprogrammesinthefashion
industrywithspecificdepartmentsthatattendtotheentiretyofthecompanys
CSRconcerns.TheCSRprogrammehasextendedbeyondatooltodefine
problemsthatneedsolutionsortobecomelessbad.Nikeseesitscorporate
responsibilityasasourceofinnovationwithinthecompany.Nikesgoalsareto
changetheconditionsinthesupplychain,contractfactoriesandlocal
communitieswherethecompanyoperates.TheareasNikeisfocusedonare
(NikeCSRReport,2006):
1. Reductionofglobalenvironmentalimpactthrusustainableproductand
supplychaininnovation,indirectoperationsandcontractedfactories
2. Improvementofworkingconditionsinthecontractfactories
3. Usingthebrandtogiveaccesstoexcludedcommunitiestothebenefitsof
sport.
Nikesexplorationofsustainabledevelopmentoriginatedwithsmallagroupof
managersanddesignersthatstartedaskingquestionsaboutthelongterm
environmentalimpactsofthecompany.Whilestudyingthepossiblesolutions,
Nikesmanagersanalyseddifferentemergingtheoriesofsustainabilityand
finallybasedtheireffortsonthecradletocradlethinking(explainedfurtherin
Chapter5).Thismeansthatenvironmentalimpactdoesnotrepresentathreat
butanopportunityforinnovationandmodernizationascradletocradle
thinkingconjecturesthatintelligentdesigncaneliminatetheconceptofwaste,
thereforeeradicatingthedivergencebetweennatureandcommerce.
Thecompanysfirststepstoachieveasustainablebusinessmodelweretomake
acommitmentintoecologicallyintelligentdesign.TogetherwithMcDonough
BraungartDesignChemistry(MBCD),Nikestartedmaterialassessmentsinorder
todeterminechemicalcompositionandenvironmentalimpactofmaterialsand
manufacturingprocessesusedintheproductionofathleticshoes.Alistof
positivematerialsthatrespectthecompanysemergingcriteriaforsustainable
designwasthendeveloped.
By2020Nikeaimsto(McDonough,2002):
Eliminatetheconceptofwasteinproductdesign,usingmaterials,energyand
resourcesthatcanbeeasilyrecycled,renewedorreabsorbedbackintonature.
22
Eliminateallsubstancesthatareknownorsuspectedtobeharmfultohuman
healthorthehealthofnaturalsystems.
Closetheloopandtakefullresponsibilityforitsproductsatallstagesand
processlifecycle,includingdisposalbyconsumer.
Nikealsorealizestheenvironmetalimpactofcottonproductionandasa
responseplanstouseaminimumof5%organiccottoninallcottonapparelby
2010.
Nikehaspubliclymadeawareitsefforttowardssustainablemethodsandisone
oftheonlycompaniesusingmultistakeholderpartnershipstoensureapublic
andtransparentstrategythatusesNGOs,activists,andgovernmentstochange
itsbusinessmodel.
HEMA:ADutchExampleofSustainability
TheDutchcompanyisaverypositiveexampleformanybusiness,havinga
strongdesignedgeinitsproductsandvalueformany,thecompanyhasstarted
forafewyearstoincludeorganiccottoninitsbabyclothingandalsoworkon
otherorganiccollectionsforhomeproducts.HemashowshowtheDutchmarket
hasalreadystartedtogogreenandcaresabouttheconsumersdemandforeco
products.
Thestrategyistokeeppricesatthesamelevelofotherproductsandslowly
introducesustainablematerialsinitsdesignandproducts.Hemaclaimstotest
allitsproductsecofriendlinessaccordingtocompanystandardsandmeasures
aretakentodiminishenvironmentalimpact.
Companiessmallorbig,facemanychallengesinelevatingtheirbusinessintoa
moresustainablepractice.Thesolutionsthatarepresentcanbeoverwhelming
asmanymanagersthinkprimarilyofrelatedcostsandhowcomplicatedthe
stepstoreduceorbettereliminateenvironmentalimpactare.Nike,M&Sand
Hemaarepositiveexampleshowtheenvironmentalissuescanbeturnedinto
innovativeandcompetitivesolutionsthatrepresentlongtermbenefits.These
arethebusinessmodelswecanobserveandlearnfrominordertocleanfashion
up.
ItisveryimportantforGStartolookatthebasicmodelsofNike,M&SandHema
totakeinspirationfromandworkoutitsownbestpolicytocleanupfashion.If
DutchcompanieslikeHemahavealreadystartedtogogreenandothersmall
businessesaredoingitthereisnoreasonforGStartoresistthismarket
tendency.ItisadvisableforGStartocarefullyanalyseM&Ss5yearsplanand
developitsownenvironmentalplanwithaspecifictimetargetand
environmentalobjectives.FromNike,GStarmustretainhowthedesignprocess
isanimportantandfundamentalaspecttoinstigatesustainabilityandtobecome
greener.
23
CHAPTER4.SUSTAINABILITYANDCONSUMERTRENDS
GStarwillbepushedbybadPRiftheydonttakeinaccounttheconsumertrends
ofnow.Heretheyarebelow.
Theincreasinglyawareconsumerholdsthepowerofpurchaseandultimately
canpositivelyinfluencethechangesthatareneededintheclothingindustryto
cleanupitsact.Thischapterlooksattheconsumerbehaviourandtrendsand
howthosefactorsrepresentanimportantpushforthefashionindustry.
4.1EvolutionofConsumerTrends
Thefastfashiontrends,observedinthelastyears,whereconsumerslookedfor
stylishclothingatacheappricewithquestionablequalityarecoming
progressivelytoanendasmoreandmoreconsumersareawareofthe
environmentalimpactsoftheclothingindustry.Forthatreasonmanybranded
faceshavealreadyadheredtoleaner,cleanerandgreenerbusinessmodels.
Inthepast,ecologicaltrendsinfashiondidnotsucceedbecauseconsumerswere
notproperlyinformedoftheoptionsandtheproductsthatwerebeingpushed
wereexpensive,lackedindesignqualityandoverallvalue.
Todaythenewconsciousconsumerisaskingnewimportantquestions,the
groupofconsumersthatrepresentedanichemarketbefore,isbecoming
increasinglyimportantinthefashionandclothingindustryanddemandingalot
oftransparency.Withuntamedaccesstoinformationandmanygroupsalerting
fortheenvironmentalconditionsinwhichclothingisproduced,companiescan
nolongerignoreconsumerpressuretobecomesustainable.
Thetrendconscious,demandingconsumerswantchangeintheclothing
industry,environmentalimpactreducedandavailabilityofproductsthatare
innovativeandattendtothoseconcerns.Thecultureoffast/disposablefashion,
aidedbycelebritiesandchainstoreslikePrimarkandH&Misslowlybeing
eradicated.Manyconsumersarenowactivelytryingtogreenifytheirlives,
becausetheyrealizetheproblemswithecologicaldegradationandpollution,
arisefromunsustainableindustrialprocessesinclothingproductionandnot
only.
4.2BuyingBehaviours
Thesaleoforganicproductshassufferedaconsiderableriseinthelasttwoyears
andalsomanynewdevelopmentsinthecarandfoodindustryconfirmhow
conscioustheconsumerisbecomingindifferentindustrialsegments.American
Expresshasperformedastudytounderstandhowtheboominorganicproducts
isdevelopingintheluxurysegment.Inits21stCenturionReport,publishedin
2006,theorganizationconcludesthatconsumersarentjustbuyinganew
product;theyarebuyingawholesetofvalues.Furthermore,thereportexplains
thatluxuryconsumersareinterestedinpursuingahealthylifestylewhile
minimisingtheirecologicalfootprint,infoodhabits,fashion,furnitureand
travelling.Theconsciousconsumerseeksbrandthatshowsustainableconcerns
24
throughoutthesupplychain,whetheristhroughsourcingsustainablematerials,
contributingforthelivelihoodoflocalcommunitiesorensuringdiminishmentof
ecologicalimpacts(AmericanExpress,2006)
Theconsumersultimatelyholdthepowertodrivesustainabilityintofashionas
itishappeningalreadyinotherindustries.Stillpriceisoneofthestrongestkey
differentiator;thenewconsumerisevidentlylookingtopurchasesthatreflecta
newconsumptionattitudeandthatgoesbeyondanyhype.Itrepresentsalong
termtrend,asmorepressureisputonenvironmentaldamage,climatechange
andcarbonemissions.
Thegroupofconsumersthatwanttoknowhowandwheretheirproductsare
producedisgettingbiggerandbigger.Wearenowpastthehype.Youreadaboutit
everywhere.Theconsumerawarenesshastodowithconsumergroupsinvolved,
whichthereismanyconcernedwithethicalandenvironmentalissuesinfashion
andalsotodowiththeeasinessofgettingholdofgoodinformationabout
it(Daavelar,2008).
Forthisprojectanonlinequestionnairewaselaboratedinordertofindoutthe
mostrelevantopinionsconsumershaveregardingfashionsenvironmental
impactanthewillingnesstobuyproductsthatrespectecology.Themost
prominentfindingsoftheresearcharethatconsumersarenowawareof
fashionsecologicalimpactandarestartingtotakenthatintopurchasing
decisions.Themajorityoftherespondents(63.5%)areveryinterestedin
clothingthatisproducedinanenvironmentallyfriendlymannerandwillingto
purchaseit.Answersalsoshowedthatifthedesignandqualityoftheeco
productswerejustifiedtheconsumerwouldalsopaymoreforthataddedvalue.
Theresultsofthequestionnaire,tobefoundinChapter10,reallycometoshow
whycompanieslikeM&S,NikeandHemahavealltakestepstodiminishits
ecologicalfootprint,itisbecausetheconsumerisdemandingitandwillingto
payforagoodquality,designecoproduct.Thegrowingtrendoftheconscious
consumer,observedintheresultofthequestionnaire,isareasonwhyjeans
companiesandotherhavechangedtheirbusinessmodelstogreenerversions,as
presentedintheearlierchaptersofthisproject.
IfGStardoesntobservetheconsumertrendsofnow,theywillsuffereven
worsePRbecausetheconsumerswishesarenotcateredfor.Likethecompanies
mentioned,itisimportantforGStartomovewithwhatishappening,withthe
consumerbaseandattendtotheseneeds.Competitorsaredoingit;consumers
aredemandingit,GStarcanonlybutstartnow.
25
CHAPTER5.ECOLOGICALDESIGN
Whatmodelsofsustainability,indesign,canGStarlookat?
Companieshaveonlytwooptionswhenitcomestotheirfootprintonecology.
Oneistoanalysetheirsituationandtakeaproactiveattitudeconcerning
environmentalstewardshipandtheothertosimplyignorethesituation.For
thosecompaniesthatwantunderstandtheenvironmentalsignificanceof
clothingindustrytherearealreadydesigntheoriesthatcanhelpindeveloping
betterdesignsystems.Thepresentchapterdealswithmodelsofsustainabilityin
design,byanalysingtheCradletoCradledesigntheoryandfurthermorethe
importantroleoffashiondesignersinenvironmentalissues.
5.1CradleToCradleTheories
The25yeardiscussionofenvironmentalissuesfoundedbyRachelCarsons
SilentSpringhascontributedforthedevelopmentofideologiesaboutproduct
designandmaterialsthatwanttocombatalegacyoftoxicmaterialsandcometo
revolutioniseindustrialprocesses.CradletoCradleisanoutofthebox,new
formofthinkingthatlooksattheconceptofwasteasitisinnature:nonexistent.
ForWilliamMcDonoughandMichaelBraungart,theauthors,wastecanonlybut
representandadvantageforproductdesign.
AccordingtoBraungartandMcDonough(2002),productdesignmustbeginwith
acarefulanalysisofhealthfulingredients,whichcanbecontinuouslyused,
reclaimedandreusedinhighqualityproducts.Hence,startingdesignat
molecularlevelisthesolution.Whendesignhappensatthislevel,synthetic
productscanbecreatedastechnicalnutrients,meaningthattheycan,after
disposal,bereturnedtoindustrialsystemswithoutcausinganyharmfuleffects.
Thenaturalmaterials,orfromnaturalingredientscanbeconceivedasbiological
nutrientsandthereforebereturnedtotheearth.
Thesetwoconceptsoftechnicalandbiologicalnutrientsisthemainfoundation
ofcradletocradlethinkingwherewasteequalsfood.Textilescompaniesand
productslikeNikesbiodegradablesoleshave,alreadyappliedthisneweffective
recyclingofthefuture.Itrepresentsanewindustrialphilosophythateliminates
toxicelementsinthematerialsflow,alsobydesigningecologicallysafeproducts
ittriggersaddedvalueandavoidsenvironmentalimpactsandhealthconcerns
forworkers.
5.2TheImportanceOfDesignInSustainableBusinessModels
Foracompanyinpursuitofsustainabledevelopment,ecologicallyintelligent
designoughttohappenatallbusinesslevels,aproductisnotenvironmentally
safeifitcomesfromapollutingfactoryorifitisdistributedthroughwarehouses
whereenergyefficiencyisoverlooked.Managersandindustryprofessionals
mustlookattheywaythesupplychainisstructuredandhowitcanbeimproved,
despiteitscomplexity.Alsoclothingdesigninfashionisoneofthemain
processeswhereattendingtoenvironmentalconcernsandawarenessmuststart.
26
Sustainablebusinessmodelsinfashionhaveascrucialplayersthedesigners.The
roleofthefashiondesignerandalsobuyercannotbeoverlooked,within
developingnewmodels.Theirpowercanhavemorepositiveresultsthen
politicians,businessmanagersandevenenvironmentalactivists.Ifadesigneror
buyeradherestopositiveenvironmentaldesignandproducts,themarketcan
sufferbenevolentalterationsthathaveaneffectonbusinesses(FuadLuke,
2002):
Lessisspentonrawmaterialsandproduction,resultinginbetterprofits
forcompanies.
Consumershavemoreefficient,bettervalueproducts.
Governmentsspendlessonregulatoryenforcement.
Improvedenvironmentandqualityoflife.
Thechoicesadesignerorbuyermakeswhenselectingnewenvironmentally
friendlymaterialsorproducts,haveapowerfuleffectoncompaniesandmarkets,
theyahavebiggerroleinpushingsustainabledevelopmentthantheresponsible
consumerbecausetheproductstheyselectwilleffectthemarketingeneral.
Evenifenvironmentalconcernsareperceivedashypeorshorttermtrend,
designers/buyersthatattendtotheseconcernswillmakeenvironmental
stewardshipanelementarypartofproductionandnotaresponsetoatrendor
hype.
Oncedesigners/buyersareconcernedwiththeenvironmentalimpactoffashion
andmakeitpartoftheirwork,thisisalsolikelytoinfluencemanufacturersand
producerstodevelopenvironmentallyfriendlyproduction.
Figure5OldDesignModel(Source:
Guidelines,Dahl,2002)
Figure6NewDesignModel(Source:
Guidelines,Dahl,2002)
27
Fig.5(OldModel)andFig.6(NewModel)arechartsdevelopedbyEnvironmental
ResourcesManagementandthedesignerLyndaGrose(Dahletal,2002)that
exemplifythecurrentdesignmodelandhowthiscanbetakenfurtherintoanew
designmodel.
Theoldmodelshowsthatdesigners/buyersarenotmakinguseorlookingfor
informationaboutthewaythefabricsandgarmentstheyselectarebeing
produced.Productionisthereforenotincludedintheirfieldofwork.The
designers/buyersonlylookattrendsregardingcolours,fabrics,cutsandsales
possibility(Dahletal,2002).
Inthenewdesignmodel,theawarenessofproductionmethodstakesasmuch
emphasisasshiftsinculturaltrends.Itisthedesignersresponsibilitytotake
theseissuesintoaccountinsustainabledevelopment.Thisnotionof
responsibilityisfundamentalforthenewshiftofencompassingenvironmental
concernsintodesigningandbuying.
5.3DesigningLegendaryJeansThatRemainLegendary.
Theshiftinthedesignmodel,mentionedearlier,isanimportantfactorforthe
successfuldevelopmentofasustainablebusinessmodel.Bystartingawareness
atthedesignlevel,thiscangeneratefurtherdevelopmentsinsustainable
production.Theroleofthefashiondesignerisquiteimportantinthiswhole
process,tochangethemodelinFig.5,itrequiresmuchinformationand
willingness.
Manyfashiondesignerscanfeeloverwhelmedbythescopeofactionneededto
changeasystemonpracticesincetheindustrialrevolution,butitisthedesigner
thathasthepowertotranslatesustainableideologiestogetherwithtrendsand
culturalandeconomicmovementsintonewideasandthereforeproductsthat
last,areattractivetoconsumerandthereforenotdisposedeasily.
Theconfusionthatenvironmentalimpactsinfashioncangeneratecomesfrom
thelackofresourcesandknowledge.Fashiondesignersthatwanttotake
sustainableprinciplesintotheirsketchbooksanddesignplansmayfacehostility
withintheircompaniessincecostisoneofthemaindrivingfactorsandmany
companiesarefinanciallywearyofstartingsustainableprocessesiftheir
competitorshavenot.Butifdesignersunderstandthecurrentsituation,then
disadvantagescanbeturnintoprofitabilityandbetterachievementsatan
environmental,socialandeconomicallevelmakingsustainabilitybecome
integraltogooddesign.Businessescanonlychangewithdesignershelp.Ane.g.
istheBritishdesignerStellaMcCartney,inthehighfashionsegment,that
togetherwiththeFrenchluxurygroupPPR,hassetupasustainablelaboratory
nearParistomanufactureorganicskincareproductsfortheStellaMcCartney
brand.
Therearealreadytoolsinplacethatcanhelpdesignerstomeetthesechallenges.
Manyorganizations,groupsandinstitutions,discussedfurtherinChapter7,can
28
offerguidanceandsupportwhenitcomestooptionsavailableandstepsthatcan
betakenregardingsustainablefibres,chemicalsprocessesandsoon.
GStarsphilosophyhasalwaysberelatedtoRaw,Industrialproductsthat
areconnectedwiththeideasofstrongandlonglastingdesigns,itcanbe
consideredtheessenceofSlowfashion.Thedesignsarerelatedmorewith
styleanddurabilitythantrendsandtransientfashion.ItisimportantforGStar
toincludesustainabilityindesignandtocontinuethislegacyofrawandstrong
products.Designinglegendaryjeansthatarenevergoingoutofstyle,thatremain
legendary.
Gstarmustkeepupdesigningjeanswithemphasisondesign,liketheyhave
doneuntilnow.Goodsustainabledesigns,meansthatjeansarenotoutdated
easilyandthattheconsumerwillkeepthemforlongerandfeelanextravalueto
thepurchaseandthereforethepricecanalsobehigherasitisaproductforthe
consciousconsumerandfromtheSlowfashionmovement.Theproductis
moreaboutstyle,qualityandlessabouttemporaryfashionandtrends
GStarsfashiondesignersandbuyersaresignificantplayersinbringing
sustainabilityintodesignandconsequentlyintothecompanysconceptof
business.GStarneedstothinkabouttheseapproachesofsustainabilityand
modelsinthedesigndepartmentanddesignersmustputforwardtheideologyof
anewsustainabledesignmodel.Thiswillmakethecompanymorethanasimple
jeansbrand,itwilltakethebusinesstoadifferentlevelofachievementandalso
ifawarenessstartswithdesigner/buyers,thiscancreatepressureforproducers
andmanufacturestoattendtoenvironmentalconcernsinproductionprocesses.
Whereastheconsumerhasthepowertodemandenvironmentallyresponsible
products,designershavetheopportunitytopushthesedemandsintothewhole
ofthesupplychain.
29
CHAPTER6.THEPRODUCTIONOFNATURALFIBRES:THECOTTONCASE
Cottonisthebaseofdenim;denimisthebaseofGStar.HowcanGStaruse
cottondifferently?
Chapter6isconcernedwithcotton,whichisbyfarthemostusedfibreinthe
clothinganddenimindustry.Theprolificuseofthisnaturalfibreisresponsible
forthemajorityofundesiredenvironmentalimpactsoftheindustry.This
chapterexposesitsuseinthedenimindustry,howGStarcanoptimizeitsuse,
thedifferencebetweennormal,organic,andgeneticallymodifiedcottoncrops
andotheralternativefibres.
6.1OverviewandFacts
AccordingtoTextilesIntelligenceOutlookInternational(GlobalTrendsinFibre
Prices,ProductionandConsumption)publishedinIssue131,September
October2007,worldfibreproductiongrewby4.3%in2006/07,asaresultfrom
a5.0%increaseinthecottonfibredemand.
WorldCottonBalanceSheet
(Millions of
480-lb. bales)
Production
2002/03
2003/04
2004/05
2005/06
2006/07
2007/08
2007/08
December
January
88.4
95.3
122.1
117.7
122.1
118.8
118.3
143.2
140.7
166.4
175.0
182.2
179.7
179.0
Consumption
98.4
98.1
108.7
116.3
123.6
128.3
128.0
China
29.9
32.0
38.5
45.0
50.0
55.0
55.0
Non-China
68.5
66.1
70.2
71.3
73.6
73.3
73.0
Supply
Table2WorldCottonBalanceSheet
(Source:http://www.cottoninc.com/MarketInformation/MonthlyEconomicLetter/)
Table2,above,showshowtheworldproductionofcottonhasbeenrising
considerablyasaresultofgrowingconsumptioninChina.Whencomparingthe
increaseinconsumptioninChinawithothercountries(NonChina),thegrowth
isfarmoresteadyinChinathelast6years,accountingforariseof25.6millions
of480lb.bales,whereasinothercountriestherewasaconsiderablylowriseof
4.5millionsof480lb.bales,since2002.
ThiscanbeattributedtothegrowingnumberofcompaniesoutsourcingInChina
makingcottonconsumptionlevelsincreasewithoutprecedentsand
consequentlyaugmentingitsenvironmentalimpact.Thesechangesarealso
supposedtoreducethecottonharvestedareaintheUSAby15%
in2008/09.ChinaandUSAremaintheworldsmajorproducersofcotton;while
India,theAfricanFrancZone,AustraliaandBrazilareexpectedtoregister
considerableincreasesincottonproductionforthenextyears.Pakistan,Turkey
andUzbekistanareprojectedtomaintainproductionlevels.(Secretariatofthe
InternationalCottonAdvisoryCommitee,April1,2008).
30
6.2TheDenimIndustry
Thecurrentprogressesinthedenimindustrycontributewidelyforthedemand
ofthecottonfibre.AccordingtotheApparelSearchCompany,denimisarugged
cottontwilltextile.Jeansaremadeofdenim,whichisaconstructionofcotton
fabricmadefromayarndyedwarpandanundyedweftyarn.Traditionallythe
warpisindigodyed,nowinthesyntheticformatsincenaturalbluedyesarerare.
Customarily,processingandfinishingdenimisamultistageprocessconsisting
ofdyeingtomodifytheshadeofthefabric,usingenzymesforafadedlooks,
bleachingtoachievecontrasts,andthentreatingthefabricwithchemicalsor
softeners.Manyofthechemicalsanddyesusedintheproductionofdenimare
believedtohaveanadverseeffectontheenvironmentandthehumanhealthand
useshighamountsofwaterthatremainuntreated.
Naturalfibreslikecottonareusuallybleachedbeforedyed,usingchlorine
containingbleachingaidsthatcontributeforhighchlorinecontentin
wastewater,makingithardtopurify.
6.3EnvironmentalImpactsofNonOrganicCropsvs.OrganicCrops
Companiescommitmenttosustainabledevelopmentmustgobeyondthe
differencesbetweenorganicandconventionalcottonproduction,itrequiresan
analysisofpracticesandoperationsalongthecomplexsupplychain,
nevertheless,itisimportanttograspthedifferencesbetweenthetwowaysof
producingthemostsoughtafterfibreinthefashionindustry.
Conventionalcottonproductionispresentin60countriesandcovers5%ofall
cultivatedland(Step,2008).Thetraditionalproductionusessignificantamounts
ofpesticides,sprayedoverthecropstoprotectit,whichcausesserioushealth
problemstoworkersbecauseoftheirhightoxicityandisresponsibleforsoil
degradation.Inproducingcountriessyntheticinsecticidesareconnectedwith
largescalepoisoningandconsequentlydeathsindevelopingcountries.
AccordingtotheWorldHealthOrganization,20,000peopledieeveryyearof
pesticidepoisoningfromconventionalcottonfarmingandafurther1,000,000
peopleayearsufferfromlongtermpesticidepoisoning(Smith,2000).
Waterconsumptionistheothermajorenvironmentalimpacttogetherwithsoil
degradation.Theactualwaterconsumptionisintherangeof7,000to29,000
litersperkgofcottonfibers.Thisisatleast20timeshigherthantheamountof
waterusedinthesubsequentproductionoftextileproducts(e.g.dyeingand
finishing)(Hamnett,2007).Otherassociatedimpactsareelevatedemissionsof
GHGfromtheuseofchemicalfertilizers,desertification,longterm
contaminationofwatersupplies(Hamnett,2007)andlossofbiodiversity.
Organiccottoncropsaregrownwithoutanyuseofsyntheticfertilizersor
pesticidesanddefoliatedbynaturalmeans.Itusesnaturalpestkillersasbenign
insectsandtrapcrops,todiminishthepresenceofdestructiveinsects.Because
31
ofthis,organiccottonseemstobeacceptedasthemainalternativeto
conventionalcottonbutitstillonlyaccountsforlessthan1%oftheworlds
cottonusageandisatpresentmoreexpensivethanconventionalcotton,butif
demandrisesthismightchangeinthefuture.
Thereismuchdebateaboutthedifferencesingrowingcottonconventionallyand
organically.Organiccropsyieldsareabout14%lowerthanconventionalbut
productioncostsseemstobereducedduetouseoforganicfertilizers(Brown,
2007),stillsomeresearchersdefendthatinordertoharvestthesameamountof
cottonasaconventionalfieldalmosttwicetheamountofwaterisneeded.
TheResearchInstituteofOrganicAgriculture,intheUK,claimstohavefound
significantadvantagesoforganicoverconventionalcottonincottonfarmingin
centralIndia.Thenumberofpestmanagementdaysneededperyearisreduced
byaround40%.Thecostsoffertilizersandpestmanagementweresignificantly
reduced.AnotherstudyconcerningAfricancottonfarmingclaimsthatorganic
cottoncropgrowingimprovesyieldsperacreenhancessoilfertilityand
enhancesfoodsecurity.
Whileconcernswithenvironmentalimpactofconventionalcottonproduction
derivefromtheextensiveuseofpesticides,theuseoforganiccottonismore
beneficentandconsideredtosignificantlyreducethelifecycletoxicityofcotton
products.
6.4OrganicCottonandFairTrade
Itissaidthatfarmerscangetbetterfinancialresultsbyswitchingtoorganic
cottoncrops.Thishappensbecauseofareductionincostsrelatedtoeliminating
theusepesticidesandfertilizersandthereforetheinputcostsnecessaryforthe
production.Nevertheless,forfarmerstoswitchtoorganiccropsmustleavethe
soilrestforthreeyearstobeabletoproducecottonorganically,whichcan
representadropinyields.
Forexample,intheKahramanarasregionofTurkey,switchingtoorganiccotton
productionresultedinadropinyieldfrom3,160to1,500kilosperhectare.But
theyieldgraduallyrecovered,withproductionincreasingto2,750kilosper
hectare.(Step,2008)
Cottonisaveryimportantcropformanydevelopingcountries,alongsidewith
preciousstones,butfarmershavemanyproblemsregardingthecottonbusiness.
Whenconventionalcottonisproducedtheyareentangledwiththedemandsof
brokersthatprovidetheseedsandbuythecotton,whileinorganicproduction
thefarmermighthavebettercontroloftheentireprocessandbetterfinancial
results.
32
6.5GeneticallyModifiedCrops
Geneticallymodified(GM)cottoncropsarecurrentlyproducedintheUSA,China,
India,AustraliaandMexicoandarethethirdmostimportGMcommodity
(Swezey,2006).GMcottonismutatedtoproducethepesticidesneededto
combatthepeststhatattackconventionalcottoncropsandalsotoprovide
herbicidetolerance,whichprotectsthecottonplantagainstherbicidesspraying
andsokillingthenecessaryweedswhileprotectingthecottonplants(Ward,
2007).
ThemostpopulartypesofGMcottonaretheBacillusthuringiensisandthe
RoundupReady(Ward,2002).TheargumentbymanyisthatGMcottonis
capableofreducingpesticideandherbicideuseoncottonplantswhileincreasing
yieldsincomparisonwithconventionalcrops.
HoweverrecentreportssuchasWhobenefitsfromgmcrops?(Friendsofthe
EarthInternational,2008),exposethatundesiredresultshavecomefromthe
utilizationofGMcottonseeds.Itsusehasbeenunabletoprotectagainstother
knownpestsaccountingforthehigheruseofpesticidesanddecreaseinyield.
Concerningherbicides,theGMcottonhasnotsucceededinstoppingherbicide
resistantweedstodevelop,thusincreasingtheuseofherbicides.Itisfairtosay,
asseen,thatGMcropspresentmanyenvironmentaluncertaintiesthatmakesits
useadilemma(Villaretal.,2008)
6.6OtherAlternativeFibres
Inlightoftheharmfulenvironmentalimpactsanduncertaintiesofcottoncrop
growing,someproducersarelookingatalternativefibersthatcanpresent
differentpropertiesandopportunities.Themostwidelyobservedare:
Hemp
Hemphasbeenmostdiscussed,butduetolackofaestheticproperties,beingthe
hemptextilesalwaysbeigeincolor,hasbeenhardfortheconsumertoembrace
it.Hempusesahighlymechanicalprocesstobecomeafiberandthecorrect
infrastructureitneedsisnotdevelopedyet.Despitebeinganeasycroptogrow
organically,hempisfrequentlybleachdyedwiththehelpoftoxiccompounds.
Bamboo
Bambooisanaturalfiberthatgrowsextremelyfast,requiringalmostno
pesticidesorchemicals,butjustasthehempitisfairlyexpensivetoproduceand
becauseofthatdifficulttoacquire.Bamboopresentsmanyobstaclesinthedying
processandshrinksconsiderablywithuse.
PineappleLeaves
Pineappleleavesare100%naturalgrownwithouttheuseofchemicalsbutthe
resultingfabricisnearlyimpossibletodye,uncomfortabletotheskinandlacks
onmalleability.
33

%.6)2/.-%.4!,)-0!#4
Coconut
ISNOTCOMPLETEANDEVENMOREBRANDNAMES SAMEENVIRONMENTALEFFECTSARERELATEDTOTHEPRODUCTION
Coconutuseintheclothingindustryisstillinitsinfancy,thematerialisnot
ARELIKELYTOBEFOUNDATTRADEFAIRSANDWITH
OFALLTYPESOFNATURALFIBRESORALLTYPESOFCHEMICALFIBRES
SUPPLIERS
%ACHTYPEOFFIBREHASITShOWNvENVIRONMENTALIMPACT)NTHIS
widelyproducedmakinganexpensivecommodity.Coconutmaterialsare
SECTIONEXAMPLESWILLBEGIVENOFSOMEOFTHEENVIRONMENTAL
breathableandpresentalightcoconutaroma.
4HEREAREMANYDIFFERENTENVIRONMENTAL
PROBLEMSASSOCIATEDWITHTHEPRODUCTIONOFASELECTIONOF
DIFFICULTIESCONNECTEDWITHTHEMANUFACTURING BOTHNATURALFIBRESANDCHEMICALFIBRES
Itisdifficulttogeneralizetheimpactofalltypesoffiberssincenaturaland
PROCESSOFATEXTILEWHETHERITISBASEDON
chemicalhavedifferentdemandsandhaveallspecificimpactsandnotall
NATURALORARTIFICIALFIBRES)TISBYNOMEANS
)N4ABLEBELOWANUMBEROFENVIRONMENTALEFFECTSCAUSED
connectedwithproductionprocesses.Table3makesadistinctionbetweenthe
ONLYTHEMANUFACTURINGPROCESSOFTHEFABRIC BYTHEPRODUCTIONOFNATURALANDCHEMICALFIBRESARE
WHICHPUTSPRESSUREONTHEENVIRONMENT
DESCRIBED
environmentalimpactsofnaturalandchemicalfibersinordertoclarifythe
WHICHWEINDICATEDABOVEINTHEDESCRIPTION
issues.
OFTHELIFECYCLEOFPOLYESTERANDCOTTON
)NGENERALITCOULDBEARGUEDHOWEVERTHATTHEDIFFERENCE
)TISDIFFICULTTOGENERALISEANDCLAIMTHATTHE
INENVIRONMENTALTERMSBETWEENNATURALFIBRESANDSYNTHETIC
Table3:EnvironmentalimpactofNaturalandChemicalFibres(Source:Guidelines.TheSustainable
SolutionDesignAssociation,2002)
4!",%
%.6)2/.-%.4!,
)-0!#4
.!452%&)"2%3
#(%-)#!,&)"2%3
.!452!,
#OTTON
'2/7).'
&)"2%-!.5&!#452).'
7ATERCONSUMPTION
0ESTICIDES
7ASTEWATER
!IREMISSION
02/$5#4)/./&
&!"2)#3
7ATERCONSUMPTION
7ASTEWATER
0#04E#0
#HLORINEBLEACHING
-ETALCOMPLEXDYES
!LLERGY PROVOKING
DYES
#ARRIER
0ETROL BASEDPRINTING
2%'%.%
2!4%$
39.4(%4)#
&LAXETC
BASTlBRES
7OOLETC
ANIMAL
lBRES
6ISCOSEAND 0OLYESTER
SIMILARlBRES
CELLULOSE
lBRES
0OLYAMIDE
.YLON
!CRYLIC

!&4%242%!4-%.4
&).)3(
&ORMALDEHYDE
&LAMERETARDANTS
3IGNIlCANTLYRELEVANTENVIRONMENTALIMPACTBYTHElBREINQUESTION
0ARTLYRELEVANT
.OTRELEVANT

4HECATEGORYOFBASTlBRESINCLUDESRAMIEJUTEANDHEMPFOREXAMPLE

)NCLUDINGAMONGSTOTHERSACETATETRIACETATECUPROLYOCELLANDMODAL
Manyissueshavetobetakeninaccountbydesignersandcompaniesinthe
selectionbetweennaturalandchemicalfibers.Themaindifferencecanbe
attributedtothefactthatchemicalfibersuseresourcesintheoilformatthatare
nonrenewable,notinthecaseofviscose,whichisextractedfromwood.

34
Inconclusion,bothnaturalandchemicalfiberspresentenvironmentalimpacts
thatderivedfromthewholeofthefiberlifecycle.Toanalyzetheimpactofthe
productionofanyfiberisnecessarytolookathowmuchwaterconsumption,
chemicalandpesticidesareused,thetypeofchemicalused,lookatthelocalflora
andhowwasteisgeneratedanddisposed.
Whenitcomestotheenvironmentalimpactofconventionalcotton,asTable3
shows,thechoiceoforganicovernonorganiccropscanminimizetheuseof
pesticidesandtoxicchemicalsthatcontributeinlargeforthedepletionof
naturalsystems.Eveniftheproductionorganicallygrowncottonisin
development,companiescanalleviatetheecologicaleffectsofcottongarmentsif
theychoosefor100%organicallygrowncotton,withouttheuseofdefoliants
beforecottonpickingandsolventsduringthewettreatment.
GStarmuststartnowtouseapercentageoforganiccottononallofitsproducts.
Thecompanyhastorealizetheeffectsofconventionalcottonproductionand
startincorporatingaminimumamountoforganiccotton,likeHema,H&M,Levis
andWranglerarealreadydoingit.
GStarsfabricisdenimand,asthechapterexplains,thereliesmany
environmentalproblemsduetocottonproduction,thecompanyhasbeen
announcingsince2007,inTextiliaMagazine,aboutpossibleecojeansbutthose
promiseshavenotcomeacross.TheadviseisforGStartooptimizetheuseof
cottonbylookingatthepossibilitiesofusingorganiccottonthreadandcertain
amountsoforganiccottoninitsclothingassoonaspossible.Fortheirraw,
industrialandlonglastingdesigns,maybe100%organiccottonjeanswouldnt
bethemostappropriate,butthecompanymustnowstartintroducingasmall
amountoforganiccottononallofitsapparelinordertogaincompetitiveedge
andtackleenvironmentalissues.
35
CHAPTER7.INTERNATIONALCERTIFYINGORGANIZATIONS
WhoshouldGStarturntowhenmakingtheshift?
ForGStartoundergoaprocessoflookingatthecompanyscurrentprocessesin
ordertoattendtoenvironmentalconcerns,thiscannotonlybedoneinternally.
Designers,buyersandproducersmustbeinvolvedwithexternalorganizations,
activistsandconsumergroupstodiscussenvironmentalconcernsandprospects.
Therearealreadyorganizationsthatcreateawareness,offersupport,labeling
and/orcertificationforsustainablebusinessesandproducts.Thischaptergives
anoverviewoftheleadingorganizationandlabelingschemesandwhichones
aresuitableforhelpingGStarsshift.
7.1.1EuropeanUnionandtheFlowerLabel
TheflowerlogoisEUscertificatefortextileproductsthat
haveareducedenvironmentalimpactcomparedwith
productsusingstandardproduction.ThemaingoaloftheEU
floweristoinformconsumersaboutproductsthatattendto
environmentalaffectsandprovidedirectandreliable
informationaboutthistypeofproducts.Furthermore,thegoal
oftheEUwiththislogoistoinstigatesupplyanddemandof
environmentallyfriendlyproducts(EuropeanCommission,
2008).
Whocanusethelabel?
Allproducersandimporterswhoselltheirproductsinthememberstatesofthe
EuropeanUnion,Liechtenstein,NorwayandIcelandcanusethelabel.
Criteria
Theforemostenvironmentalissuesareanalysedintheentiretyoftheproducts
lifecyclestagesandtakeninaccount.Requirementsarebasedonthereduction
ofwastewaterpollution,GHGemission,toxicityofmaterialsandmaintenance
propertiesoftheproducts,thisforthecaseoftextiles.Regardingproductionof
textilestherearenoconditionforittobeorganic.Everythreeyearsnewcriteria
isstipulated,requiringproductstoberesubmittedagainstnewcriteria
(EuropeanCommission,2008).
Costs
Theinitialcostofthelabelissetinaccordancewiththecompanysturnover,
makingitfairforallbrandstoobtainit.Alsoafeeischargedeverytimetheres
applicationforcompliancewithnewcriteria(everythirdyear).
"TheEUEcolabelisessentialinfacilitatingconsumers'sustainablechoices
favouringthemoresustainablesegmentofproductsandservicesonthemarket."
TheSwedishConsumers'Association(Sweden)
36
7.1.2TheEKOlabel
TheEKOSustainableTextilequalitysymbolistheNetherlandsscertificationfor
textilesproducts(yarns,fibres,materialsandclothes)thatrespectsustainable
production.Thelabelisawarded,bytheControlUnion
Certifications,(formerlySkalInternational),for
organicproductiononlywhenitmeetsEU
requirementsandregulationandistheonlylabelthat
alsoattendstoworkingconditions.
Theschemeisdesignedtoguaranteesustainable
textileproductionandpromotedevelopedin
collaborationwithindustryprofessionals,
environmentalorganisationsandconsumergroups.
Thestandardaimstoreliablycertifytheconsumerofanorganictextilefromthe
veryfirststepoftheprocess.Thelabelonlyappliesfortextilesmadeofnatural
fibresproducedinaccordancewithEUstandards(ControlUnion,2008).
Whocanusethelabel?
Anyproducer,companyorbrandthatmeetstherequirementsforsustainable
textileproducts,fromnaturalfibres,accordingtoEuropeanstandardoforganic
productionstipulatedbyEECRegulation2092/91,orNOPregulations(Control
Union,2008).
Criteria
Thecriteriaforthelabelaredevelopedwiththeintenttoobtainasmuch
environmentalgainaspossible.TheEKOlabelcertificationusesGOTS(Global
OrganicTextileStandard)thatestablishestheguidelinestoensuretheorganic
statusoftextiles,frommanufacturingtolabelling,notonlyenvironmentallybut
alsosocially.Furthermore,alsoincludesthecompanysinternalenvironmental
conditions,namelyenvironmentalmanagementsystems,wastewaterdischarge
andworkingconditionsalongthesupplychain(ControlUnion,2008).
Costs
Costsforthislabellingschemearenotpublicized.
7.1.3OekoTex100
Thecertificateassessesandmonitorsanyharmfulsubstancespresentwithin
processedtextilesintendedtocomeincontactwiththeconsumer,the
permissiblevaluesarestipulatedwhetherthetextileisincontactwithskinor
not.Thislabelisonlyconcernedwithstandardsfor
thereadytosellproductandiscurrentlythe
strictestandmostdifficultcertificationtoobtain.
Despitebeinganinternationalprogramme,ismost
commonlyknowninEurope.Thelabelstillneeds
todevelopawarenesswiththeconsumersandto
becomebetterrecognized.
37
Themaingoalofthelabelistoinformconsumersoftextilesthatdonotposea
riskforhumanhealthandtheschemeisparticularlydemandingwhenitcomes
tobabyproducts.
OekoTexstrictstandardsalsoapplytotheenvironmentallysoundproduction
anddisposalphaseoftextiles,asinairquality,wasteandwatermanagementand
recyclableproperties.
7.1.4InternationalOrganizationforStandardization(ISO)
TheISOoffersinternationalstandardsforbusinesses,governmentandsociety.
TheISO14000groupsareconcernedwithenvironmentalmanagementandoffer
manycertificationsinthefieldofenvironmentalmanagement.Therearetwo
mainstandardstoobserve,theISO14001:2004andtheISO14004:2004.
ISO14001:2004
Thisstandardstipulatestheconditionsforanenvironmentalmanagement
system(EMS)whichcanbeobtainedbyanyorganizationregardlessofitssizeor
businessscope.Itismeanttohelpidentifyandmanageenvironmentalimpactsof
businesses,productsorservices,butdoesntprovideconcretetargetsof
environmentalperformance.Itsconcernistoprovideaframeworkfor
environmentalpolicy,bygivinggeneralizedrequirementsforanEMS(ISO,
2008).
ISO14004:2004
Thisstandardismeanttoprovideguidanceinimplementing,developingand
improvinganEMSanditsconformitywithothermanagementsystems.AsISO
14001:2004itisalsomeantforanyorganization,regardlessoflocation,sizeor
scope(ISO,2008).
Bothcertificationscanposecertainchallengesforsmallandmediumsized
enterprises(SMEs)duringimplementation,butaccordingtoISOsexperience,
theprocesscanbedonesuccessfullyandmanybenefitsregardingbusinessand
environmentalperformanceresultfromtheimplementationofanEMS.Inorder
tohelpcompaniesovercomethechallengesandobtainthemaximumbenefits,
ISOoffersguidanceandconsultantsforEMSimplementationproceduresatan
extracost(ISO,2008).
!""#$
7.1.5OrganicExchange(OE)
TheOEisagloballyrecognizedcharitableorganization,originatedintheUSA,
concernedwithpromotingorganicfarming,speciallycotton,andinforming
consumersofproductsthathavebeenorganicallyproducedorthatcontaina
certainamountoforganicallyproducedcomponentsthroughtwocertification
Organic Exchange Blended Standard
programmes,asfollow:
OEBlendedStandard
Thislabellingcanbeusedforgarments,whichcontaina
blendofconventionalwithaminimumof5%organiccotton
fibres.Italsoallowspublicizingtheamountoforganiccotton
38
Written by Anne Gillespie with the
advice and input of:
Terry Young, Organic Exchange
fibreused,makingclaimsclearerintheeyesoftheconsumer.(ControlUnion,
2008)
Organic Exchange 100 Standard
OE100Standard
Companiesandbrandscanusethislabelforfabricsandfinished
productsmadeof100%organicallygrowncotton.Itis
concernedwiththewholeprocessofproductionbutthe
labellingmaincoalistobridgethegapexistinginthe
certificationof100%organicfibres.
ThelabellingprogrammesofferedbyOEallowsfortheuseofthelogos,which
helpsconsumersbetteridentifyorganicgarmentsandalsocompaniestoraise
theirprivatestandards.Thelabellingcanandshouldbeusedtohaveabetter
- Terry Young, Organic Exchange
controlandtraceabilityovertheirsuppliersandproducers.Itencourages
- Hong Lee, Control Union
- Marcus Brugel, IMO
organicfarmingandmakessuretheorganiccottonusedonlycomesfrom
- Mark Prose, Control Union
- Marty Mesh, Quality Certification
certifiedfarmers(ControlUnion,2008).
Services
- Mecki Naschke, IMO
- Rainer Baechi, IMO

- Ramkrishnan Balasubramanian,
Quality Certification Services
H&Miscurrentlyoneoftheholdersofthiscertification.Thecompanyhas
- Sam Welsch, Onecert
includedorganicallygrowncotton(around5%)incertainbabyandchildren's
garmentssince2004.UntilnowtheSwedishorganizationhasusedmorethan
80tonnesoforganiccottonaccordingtoOE,PartofH&Ms2007collectionwas
madewith100%organiccotton.Duringthesameyearthecompanyreportedly
used600tonnesoforganiccotton.
CHAPTER7.2NonCertifyingOrganizations
Alongwithcertificationsandlabellingschemes,brandscanalsooptasfirst
approachtounderstandtheproblemswithCSRandenvironmentalconcerns,to
haveadialoguewithNGOsandotherorganizationsthatprovideadviceand
clarifyconcernsinfashionssocialandenvironmentaldimensions.Herethe
focusisexclusivelyonDutchorganizationsasGStarisalsoaDutchbrand.The
mainfindingsoftheinterviewwithGeertJanDavelaar(Amsterdam,21stMarch,
2008),projectcoordinatorfortheCleanClothesCampaign,arealsohere
presented.
7.2.1MVONederland
MVO(Maatschappelijkverantwoordondernemen)isaDutchgovernmentally
fundedorganization,whichishelpingGStaralleviatingtheproblemsthat
derivedfromaccusationsregardingsuppliersdubioussocialconditions.Touse
MVOwasthelabelsfirstefforttoaclearerCSRpolicyalongwithanincreased
assertivenessinitsCodeofConductregardingenvironmentalandsocial
concerns,assuringthatcompliancetoGStarsinternalstandardsmustbemetby
allitsmanufactures.
TheorganizationsmainconcernsaretodivulgateCSRprovideassistancein
social,environmental,andalsoeconomicissuestoSMEs.Itoffersacentreof
39
expertiseincorporateresponsibilityissuesthattrytoimprovethepoliciesof
companiesandalertsthatCSRextendstothewholeofthesupplychain,
AccordingtoMVO(2007)CSRisprocesswherebyacompanyassumes
responsibility,acrossitsentiresupplychain,forthesocial,ecologicalandeconomic
consequencesofthecompanysactivities,reportsontheseconsequences,and
constructivelyengageswithstakeholders.
RegardingenvironmentalimpactstheMVOsCSRFrameofReference(2007)
saysthat:
Businesseshavearesponsibilityregardingenvironmentalimpactsof
theiractivities.
Effortsshouldbemadetominimizethesenegativeimpacts
Transparencytostakeholdersandcorrectreportingofactivitiesand
impactsareessential.
Citizenshavearighttodecisionandparticipationinenvironmental
matters,asstipulatedbythe1998UNECEAarhusConvention.
FurthermoretheMVOalsostatesthatforanyCSRstrategytobeimplemented,a
substantialoperationalaspectcannotbeoverlooked,theMultistakeholder
approach.Thisiswhenalltherelevantstakeholdersareidentifiedandbrought
intotheboardroomforawarenessprocessesanddiscussionoveropposing
views.AllstakeholdersshouldbeinvolvedindevelopingaCSRpolicy,
implementingitandfurthermoreverifyingtheresultsofsuchpolicies.
AnotherrelevantoperationalaspectismakingsurethatCSRprogrammesare
implementedallalongthesupplychain,thisisthesupplychainapproach,
enforcingCSRstandardsinproductionandalongtheentiretyofthesupplychain
andtakingresponsibilityforimplementation.
ThisshouldbeoneofGStarsmainconcernsandconstituteacoreconceptin
CSRstrategy.Itisimportanttotakepreventiveactionregardingenvironmental
issuesandaccountforresponsiblemanagementinalloperations.
7.2.2TheCleanClothesCampaign(CCC)(InterviewwithGeertJanDavelaar)
TheCCCistheorganizationresponsibleforalertingthepublicaboutGStars
standardsnotbeingrespectedbysuppliers(seeFig.7below).CCCisaNGO
concernedwithsocialstandardsinthefashionindustry.AsGeertJan
Davelaar(2008)explainedinapersonalinterviewforthisthesis:
CCCstartedintheendofthe80sduetoproblemswithfactorieswhereC&Awas
sourcing.Activistsandwomensgroupsdidanactionandrealizedthattherewere
bigproblemsintheclothingindustryingeneral.Theresultwasacampaign
organizationfocusedincutmaketrim(CMT)processes.ThatishowCCCwas
born.
Mainlybecausethispartoftheindustryissocomplexandsowewanttofocusin
labourconditionsinthoseprocesses.
40

EachcountrywithitsCCCcampaignfunctionsindependentlybutstilltheyall
cometogetherwiththehelpoftheInternationalSecretariatinAmsterdam.The
DutchCCCiscurrentlynotspecificallyinvolvedwithenvironmentalimpactsof
thefashionindustry,becauseitfeelsthatitdoesnthaveyetthenecessary
knowledgetodoso.IntheUK,thelocalCCChasmademanyeffortsintoputting
environmentalissuesintheagenda.
ConcerningCSRpoliciesandimplementationsitwasstatedintheinterview,by
Mr.Daavelar(2008)that:
OneofthemostimportantCSRissuesistransparency.Thereshouldalwaysbea
dialoguebetweenall
thestakeholders
involvedwiththe
company,insociety.
Eachstakeholdercan
learn,evolveandtake
thingsfurther,which
isacrucialaspectof
CSR.Thereistheneed
totalkaboutwhatis
importantforyouas
CCC,asacompany,as
anenvironmental
organizationor
labourgroup.These
groupsneed
somethingfromeach
otherandthatisvery
Figure7CCCActionagainstGStar,UK2006(Source:CCCSolidarity
important.
ActionBrochure,2007)
Attendingtotheissues,reallydependonthecompanyandhowserioustheytake
thesubjects[...]therearenewcompaniesbasedonlyonethicalideologiesandthere
aresomethatneedCSRasaPRtool,whichisfineinaway.Companiesinthe
fashionbusinessshouldbeawarethatconsumersandgroupswillaskquestions
aboutthethingstheysaytheyaredoingandwhattheyarereallymakinghappen.
TheprojectMr.Daavelariscoordinatoroftriestoraiseawarenesswith
importantfutureindustryplayers,fashionstudentsthatwillbecomedesigners
andmanagers;itistherewhereunderstandingofthecurrentproblemsinthe
industrymustbeexercised.
Whenaskedaboutothernoncertifyingbodies,Mr.Daavelar(2008)expressed
someconcern:OrganizationslikeMadeBY,makealotopromisesbuthaveno
clearresults.Theyshouldshowtheconsumerwhattheirconcernsare;
transparency,labourconditionsortheenvironment,butnotpresenttheissueasif
everythingisokay.Concerningbrands,theyshouldmaketheconsumerawareof
theproblems,statewhattheyaredoingandsay:Wearenotthereyet.
41
Itisbestforcompaniesandbrandstosaytheyaredoingthebesttheycan,instead
ofsayingthattheyarethebestethicalcompanyinthemarket,becausethereisno
furthertransparency.
(Pleaserefertoappendixforthefullinterview)
ItisadvisedforGStartobecomememberoftheOrganicExchangeandobtain,
tostartwith,theOEBlendedStandardcertification.Thisisthebestoption,ata
beginningstage,becauseitallowstouseconventionalcottonwithaminimumof
5%organiccottonandtopublicizeitinthelabelling.
TheOEshouldhelpGStarindevelopingjeansthatarestillindustrial,long
lastingdesignsbutthatstartincorporatingorganiccottoninthebestway,
withoutaffectingthecompanysdesignprinciples.Untilnowthecompanyhas
notobtainedanykindofcertification,itisimportanttodoso.
Secondly,GStarmustobtaintheISO14001:2004standardbecauseitsoneofthe
mosteffectivestandardstohelpinthemanagementofenvironmentalimpactsof
businessesandproducts.BeingbackedupbythisstandardmeansthatGStar
willbeawareofthegeneralrequisitesforanEMSandwillbeabletoobtaina
certification.FurthermoretheISOcanhelpintheimplementationandgeneral
problemsthatoccurfromit.ISOisaworldknownorganizationandGStarwill
onlybutbenefit,ifassociatedwithit.
Lastly,GStarmustdevelopabetterrelationshipwiththeCCCinHolland,not
onlybecauseofpastproblems,butalsobecausetheorganizationcanhelpGStar
tobecomemoretransparentandawareoftheroleofstakeholdersinfashion
companies.Withgooddialogueandcommunication,GStarcanpositivelylearn
fromthisorganization,howitsownbusinesscanbeimprovedandwhatNGOs,
likeCCC,expectfrombrandsandcanhelpbrandswith.
42
CHAPTER8:ENVIRONMENTALLYRESPONSIBLEBRANDS
Fashiondenimbrandsarealreadyshiftingpractice,whoshouldGStarlooktofor
inspiration?
AccordingtotheCBI(2007)reportondenim,theleadingdenimbrandsin
EuropeandrestoftheworldareLeviStrauss,LeeandWrangler.TheAmerican
brandsdominatethemarketandcompetewithothermajordenimplayersfor
marketshare.ThischapteranalysesthelabelsthatcompetewithGStar,what
measuresarethesecompaniestakingregardingenvironmentalconcernsand
whatcanGStarlearnfromthem.
8.1VFCorporation
TheVFCorporation(VanityFair)isanAmericanclothingconglomeratewith
differentlifestylebrandsandoneoftheoldestapparelsuppliers.Themost
importantlabelsunderitsumbrellaareLeeandWrangler,whichtogetherwith
Levisareconsideredtobetheonlythreegenuineglobaljeansbrand(Newbery,
2007).VFCorporationisspecializedinjeansmakingwithovera100yearsof
experienceintheindustry.
VFintotal(LeeandWrangler,plussmallerbrandsas7forAllMankind,which
havebeenacquiredrecently)has19%ofthetotalUSmarket.IntheU.K
Wranglerhas6%ofthetotalmarketandaround19%ofthebrandedmarket;
andLeehasonly5%ofthetotalmarket,whichisabout12%ofthebranded
market.(Newbery,2007)VFhadin2006areportedlyturnoverofEUR4.1bn.
(Newbery,2007).
Inthecompanyscodeofconductunderpublicresponsibilitythereisareference
totheorganizationsenvironmentalconcerns.Itisstatedthatthecompanywill
manageitsbusinessinwaysthataresensitivetotheenvironment()willcomply
withallenvironmental,healthandsafetylawsandwillinternallyestablishand
complywithitsownstrictstandardsestablishedonbehalfofthewellbeingofour
associatesandthecommunitiesinwhichtheCompanyoperates.(VFCodeof
BusinessConduct,2008)Furthermorethereisnospecificinformationabout
actionorstrategiestakentoensurethattheenvironmentorcommunitieswhere
VFbrandsoperateareprotected.
WranglerOrganics:NaturalProcesses
Wranglerintroducedin2007aspecialcollectionthatuses100%certified
organicdenimcottonincooperationwithItalianlaundries,whichresultedinthe
developmentofnaturalprocessescreatinguniquefinishings.Thecottonisdyed
withahigherthannormalpercentageofnaturalindigodye(40%opposedtothe
regular812%).Thismeanscastlevelswithnochemicalorsyntheticfinishing
techniques(Wrangler,PressRelease,2007).
Thejeansbrandstatesthatiscommittedtotheuseofnaturalfibresandold
worldfabricsthroughoutthewholecollectionandtheWranglerOrganics
collectionwasthefirststeptoensurethisfurther.Wranglerannouncedtheuse
43
oforganicmaterials,mainlycotton,andnaturaldyesandwashesinthemajority
ofits2007collections(Wrangler,PressRelease,2007).
DespiteannouncementsbybothWranglerandLee,onlythefirstispublicly
makingeffortstoproducejeanswiththeobjectiveofdiminishingenvironmental
impact.
8.2LeviStrauss:KeepingTheNastiesOut
Thefirstorganicdenimcollectionbythecompany,calledLevisNatural,was
releasedin1991afterexperimentswithrecycleddenimandorganiccotton.But
itwasnotuntil2006thatLevismadeaneweffortinorganicapparel.Levis
Ecodenimisthefirst100%organiccottonjeanreleasedin2007.Levisplans
aretoincorporatethenatural,insecticidefreecottonfibreinmostofitslines.
ControlUnionCertificationscertifiedthejeanasanEKOSustainableTextile
(Mesa,2007).
LevisEcodenimlineisidentifiedbyanembroideredlowercaseeinsidethe
jeansfrontpocketorbottomrightleganduses100%certifiedorganiccotton,
washedwithnaturalsubstancessuchaspotatostarchandmimosaflower.The
packagingisinrecycledpaperandusessoybasedink.Furthermorethedesign
teamdevelopednaturaldyesandbuttonsandzippersfromrecycledmetal
(Mesa,2007).
LevisEcowasdevelopedunderthesupervisionofControlUnionCertification
andthebrandclaimsthemodeltobetheresultofLevisresearchonconsumer
needs,whichshowedthattherewasagrowinginterestinsustainability,ethical
styleandinknowingtheeffectsofthebrandontheenvironment(Blanchard,
2007).
In1995Leviswasoneofthefirstglobalapparelcompanytoimplementstrict
guidelinesonwastewaterusagetobemetbysuppliers,laundriesandfinishing
companies.ARestrictedSubstanceListwasthenimplemented,consideredtobe
anindustryleadingdocumentthatensuresenvironmentallyresponsible
production.
LevisalsorecognizestheeffectsofemittingCo2andothergreenhousegases
intotheatmosphereandbecamepartoftheWorldResourcesInstitutesGreen
PowerGroupCaliforniaaffiliatesasanattempttolearnhowtogetherwithother
concernedcompanies,thebrandcanreduceemissionsfromitsoperations.
Levisiscommittedtodevelopaglobalenvironmentalstrategyandthefollowing
stepshavebeentakeinthatrespect(LeviStrauss&Co,2008):
Anassessmentofproductsenvironmentalimpactfromcotton
productiontoproductdisposal.Mainlyfocusinginairemissions,waste
productionandwaterusage.
44
Validationstudytoverifydataprovidedbycontractorsinorderto
improvetheGlobalEffluentGuidelinesandtomakeitmoreeffectiveat
supplierlevel
Inventoryofgreenhousegasemissionsforowned/leasedandoperated
facilities(headquarters,distributioncentres,retailspaces,salesoffices,
etc.)StartingintheAmericas,withintentionstosetglobalemission
reductiontargets,forallregionswithbrandoperations.
DevelopmentofFacilitiesEnvironmentalImpacttoacknowledgethe
overallenvironmentalimpactsofworldwideLevisfacilities.
Theorganizationimpliesthatiscommittedtofirstgatheralltherelevantdataso
anextendedenvironmentalstrategycanbedeveloped,withspecifictargetsand
objectives,toattendstakeholdersconcerns.
8.3NudieJeans:DontWashToKeepJeansLonger
TheSwedishjeanslabelclaimstobeantifashionstatingintheirwebsiteand
bookletTheNakedTruthAboutDenim,offeredwitheachjeanspairsold,that
theyareatruejeansbrandnotpushingshorttermtrends.
ThelabelspecializesinjeansandtshirtsanditwasonlyinMay2007,thatthe
companyopeneditsfirstretailspace,inhometownStockholm.Considereda
premiumbrandwithpricesrangingfromEuro100400,itisonlyrecentlythat
Nudiefeltthenecessitytoventureintoitsowncontrolledretail,plansforthe
nextfiveyearsaretoopenup10storesandanundisclosednumberofoutletsin
GermanyandJapan.(Newbery,2007)
Nudieisperceivedafrontrunnerinenvironmentalconcernswithactions
towardsdenimproductionthatresultsinexemplarycorporatesocial
responsibility.ThecompanysCodeofConductisbasedontheimportanceof
protectingtheenvironmentandpopulationandthecomplianceofsuppliersand
subsuppliers.Nudieclaimsthattheirconsumerisinterestedinhowproducts
aremanufacturedandtheeffortsthebrandmakestodiminishsocialand
environmentalimpacts.
Thecompanysambitionhasleadtodevelopmentsonwashes,treatments,
labellingandaftercaretocombatthesocialandecologicaleffectsofthegarment
industry.Inordertoobtainchemicalfreeprocessesandrespectecological
proceduresstartingatyarnproduction,Nudiesorganiccottonisspun,dyed,
wovenandfinishedusingpotatostarchandprereducedindigo(Nudie,2007).
Theirdenimproducersdevelop100%organiccottonandalsoblendedyarn
wheretheorganiccottonisblendedinintonormalproduction.Nudieclaimsthat
everystepoftheproductionfollowsdetailedandaccuraterulesinordertomake
itorganiccotton(Nudie,2007)andthatallsuppliersareobligedtocomplywith
environmentallegislationandsusceptibletounannouncedinspections.(Nudie,
CodeofConduct,2007)
45
Thebrandmainlyusesunwashedorrawdenimandadvisestheconsumerto
onlywashthejeansafter6monthsofusetoachievebestaestheticresults(after
careoftheproductisresponsibleforthemostenvironmentaldamageduetothe
prolificuseofwater,detergents,energy)
8.4Kuyichi:FairTradeAndAShiftToOrganicCotton
TheDutchfairtradeinitiativecalledSolidariadstartedKuyichiin2001,using
OroBlancofairtradecottonfromPeru.Thecompanysmaineffortgoalisto
offerorganiccottonandfairtradejeanswearmanufacturedinapure,organic
andfairtradedmanner.Fromallenvironmentalconsciousjeansmakers,Kuyichi
istheonethatoffersthemoststylesandwasheswitharetailpriceunderthe
80Eur(Mesa,2007).
Kuyichisaysitcurrentlyusesorganiccottonin7080%ofallcollectionsandthe
goalistowork100%withorganiccottoninthefuture.Thedesignsare
consideredtobecomfortableandwearableinapricerangeslightlylowerthan
itsotherecocompetitors.
Thebrandisdedicatedtosupportorganicfarming,improvebiodiversity,soil
qualityandoverallenvironmentalqualityforcottonfarmers.
MadeBytogetherwithKuyichihelpstoimprovesustainabilityandadds
transparencytotheproductionsystem.ThelabelhashelpedKuyichiinthe
responsiblesourcingofcottonandtoestablishSA80000certifiedsupply
factories.
Kuyichiviewsitselfasthefirstlabelwithorganicstoallyfairtradeand
environmentallyawareproductionbuttherearenofurtherreferencetospecific
strategiesorbenchmarkingstudiesthatcanshowresultsofthebrandsefforts
onreducingenvironmentalimpact.
8.5DelForteDenim:FashionandEcoFriendlyDesign
TierradelForteisthedesignerbehindDelForteDenim,apremiumdenim
companymadeinUSAwith100%organiccottonthatstartedin2005.After
beginninghercareerandvisitinganumberofgarmentfactories,thedesigner
realizedthenecessitytocreateanecoconsciousdenimline.
DelForteDenimaimsattheecochicwomanwhoistransformingthefaceof
fashion(DelForte,2008)andisbestlovedbycelebritiesduetoitscurvy
designs.DelForteregardsitselfaspartofamajortrendthatunitesluxurywith
ethicalproduction.
ThegreenerdenimthatDelForteisdevotedtoachieveisentirelymadeof
100%organiccottongrown,milled,cutandsewnallintheU.S.Thecompanyis
linkedwithTheSustainableCottonProject(SCP),whichconcentratesonthe
productionanduseofcottonandcreateslinksbetweengrowersofcertified
organicallygrowncottonwithmanufactures,consumersandnewmarkets(Del
Forte,2008).SCPmainobjectiveistocreateacleanerproductionofcottonby
46
providingfarmerswithinformationandstrategiesaboutbioagricultural
methods.DelForteDenimsupportsSCPfinanciallybydonatinganundisclosed
partofthecompanysearnings.
OtherenvironmentalinitiativeDelFortehastakenistheProjectReJEANeration,
anattempttodiminishtheeffectsofdenimdisposal.Whenconsumersareready
topartfromtheirDelFortejeans,thebrandwillrecycledtheuseddeniminto
newdesignsandpresentstheconsumerwiththeopportunitytohave10%off
thenextpurchaseordonatethe10%toSCP(DelForte,2007).FurthermoreDel
Forteensurestheuseofecofriendlyproductsandserviceswheneverpossible;
highqualityrecycledpaper,vegetablebasedinkandcarbonneutralwebhosting.
8.6Jack&Jones:TheDemocratizationofEcoDesign
BestselleristhefamilyownedDanishholdingthatacquiredJack&Jonesin1990.
Thebrandoffersdenimandcasualmenswear,toayoungandurbantarget
groupof1830years.Jack&Joneswantstobeconsideredasaprominent
producerofdenimproductsandmakethemavailabletoawidermarket.
JJEcoistheecoconsciouscollectiondevelopedbyJackandJonesin2007.The
brandclaimswiththiscollectionitsobjectiveistomakesustainableecofashion
accessibletoeveryone,sothelineisavailableat600Europeanstoresandwitha
lowerpricethanotherorganicbrands,butslightlyhigherthanthenormalJack&
Jonespricetag(Jack&Jones,2007).
Thedesignteamcreatedsolutionsinregardtowashes,treatmentsandother
details.Thecollectionisproducedwith100%certifiedorganiccottonbyEKO
butalsofairtraded,certifiedbytheFAIRTRADEandismainlycomposedbyt
shirts,jeansandsweatshirts.
Thejeans,astherestofthecollection,areproducedwiththebiggest
considerationtotheenvironment,assuresJack&Jones.Eachstylecomeswith
organicdetails;buttonsaremadewithcoconutshells,backlabelsmadeofreal
leatherandinsteadofrivets,strongstitchingisused.Furthermoreallthethread
usedisorganiccottonthread.Jeanstreatmentsarealsoorganic,toobtaina
roughordirtylook,bark,woodandrootsareused.Thewashesareaccomplished
withcleanwaterandnaturalstones.
Intshirtsandsweatshirts,printsaremadeusingwaterbaseddyesornatural
oilsandalsosewnwithorganiccottonthread.Theconsumercanidentifythe
collectionbyasmallgreendotpresentinallstyles.Jack&Jonesmaintains
intentionstorepeattheecocollectioninthefollowingyears(Jack&Jones,2007)
andpridesitselfinbeingoneofthefirstbrandstostartaconsistentlyorganic
andfairtradedcertifiedcollection(Jack&Jones,2007).
Bestsellerscodeofconductonenvironmentalprotectionsuggeststhatthe
suppliershallpromoteenvironmentallyfriendlyproductionanddevelopa
systemforenvironmentalmanagement.Furthermore,thatsystemisexpectedto
bevisibleassoonasoneentersthepremisesofthefactorybutthereisno
furtherreferencetowhichsystemisinuse.
47
ThebrandspresentedareagoodexampleforGStartolookatandtake
inspirationfromwhendevelopingitsownenvironmentalpolicyandmarketing
ecoproducts.GStarmusttakeinallofwhatotherfashiondenimbrandsare
doingandgiveanown,focusedapproach.Thatapproachshouldencompassthe
principlesoftheGStarbrandandestablishasecureplaceforthebrandwithin
themarketplaceofecodenimbrands.UsingtheidealsofRaw,whichconnect
withpurityandsalvage,GStarmustventureintodevelopingitsownindustrial
denimdesignalsoorganic.
Combiningtheideaofroughandpurearewithinthebrandguidelinesandanew
typeofdenimthatusesorganiccottonwithstrongdesignelements,willkeepG
Starwithintheinnovatorsgroupofbrandsandoffersomethingtrulyunique,
newandecoconscioustoitsconsumer.
48
CHAPTER9.GStarRaw:ADenimStoryWithInnovativeDesignEdge
9.1History
HowcanGStardenimstory,withinnovativedesignedge,
becomegreener?
GStarstartedin1989whenitwasknownasGapstarandtodayisconsidered
tobeatrendyDutchdenimbrandthatsincethebeginningofthe90sassociates
itselfwiththemotto:Noimage,justtheproduct.Gstartriestodistanceitself
fromtrendsbyexpressinganinterestfordenimthatgoesbeyondhypesor
seasonaltrends,insteadtheirphilosophyistoalwaysoffertheconsumera
productthathasanexcellentprice/qualityrelationship(Hospes,2007).
In1991,GStarscurrentdirectorJosvanTillburghiredPierreMorisetasthe
companysheaddesignerand3yearslater,afterstartingtoimporttoAustria
andFrance,Gapstar,becauseofAmericancompanyGAP,becameGStar.
MorrisetistheresponsibleforGstarsfirsticonicjeansmodel,Elwood.
Elwoodwasinspiredinrainwetmotorcyclepantsanditwasfirstreleasedin
1996.GStarsElwoodmodeldidnotcatchthemarketsattentionuntillateron.
Itwasanunexpectedjeansmodelusingrawdenim,rarelyusedatthetime,and
featuredadesignshiftfromthetraditionaljeansbeingproducedduringthemid
90s.Leavingbehindthelightwashingsand5pocketsconsistency,GStars
Elwoodbroughtnewfeaturesasthe3dimensionalleg,thebuttstitching,the
seamintheupperlegandthekneepad(Hospes,2007).
ElwoodispartofGStarsdenimhistoryandhavenowbeensoldoversixmillion
timesworldwide(Dartmaanetal,2006),thisjeansmodelwasrevisitedin2006
tocelebrateits10thanniversaryandasmallcollectionnamedElwood10was
launched.
TodayGStarisviewedasaninnovative,cuttingedgedenimbrandusingraw
materialslikesalvagedenimandrawdenim,newcutsandwashes.GStarmade
itsnamewithitsrawdenimandthatphilosophyofstrong,industrialdenimand
designiswhatmadethecompanyboom.TheDutchfashiondenimbrandaspires
inthefuturetobecomethenewLevis(Hospes,2007).
9.2Marketing
JusttheproductisthesloganthatdictatesGStarsmarketingapproachand
companygoalssincethebrandsestablishment.Thisphilosophyofputtingthe
productinthelimelightofthecompanysactionsisexpressedinallmarketing
effortsandbrandcommunications.
ThereisnotstorytellingmarketingatGStars,theproductsspeakby
themselvesandthisideologyispresentinthetotalityofGStarsworldasshop
interiors,anytypeofadvertisementorpromotionalcampaignandfashion
shows.Furthermoreitisthecompanysinternalmarketingandgraphicsteam
49
thatisresponsibleformakingsuretheproductalwaystakesthecentrestage
(Hospes,2007).
9.3Advertising
GStaradvertisesinmostofthewellknownfashionpublicationsandalso
throughenvironmentalandprintcampaignsseenthroughoutmajorcitiesinthe
world(seefig.8and9),thosearethetwomostusedmediumsforthecompanys
marketingcommunication.
Theadvertisementshavetheproductasonly
concern,themodelsusedareneverthecentral
pointofthecampaigns,insteadtheyare
presentedaspropsfortheclothing,therewas
nofacialexpressionordirectcontactwiththe
observer,untilrecentlyandcampaignsare
alwaysshotinstudio.Onecansaythatthe
clothingisintendedtoconveyallthenecessary
messages.
Figure8GStarAdvertisement,
Amsterdam(Source:Author'sown,
2008)
Figure9GStarAdvertisement,Amsterdam(Source:Author'sown,2007)
50
9.4Products
Withthephilosophyproductoverimage,thecompanybecamebestknownby
itscontinuousrenewalonproductlines,innovativecuts,fitsandwashes.GStar
RawDenimcollectionfirstintroducedin1996isbelievedtobethemost
importantandinfluentialcontributionofthecompanyforthedevelopmentof
theglobaljeansmarket(Dartmaanetal,2006),Inthesameyearthemodel
Elwoodwasreleasedbutbothdidnotpredictthesuccessthebrandhastoday,it
tookperseverancefromGStar.Rawdenim,whichisoptimallyprocessedinthe
weavingstage,wasthecompanysresponsetomarketsneedforinnovativeand
functionalproducts,butittookawhiletocatchon.
9.5Finance
GStarsdirectorYostvanTillburgclaimsthatthecompanysgoalisnotto
becomeamultinationalbrandthatwillagglomerateotherbrands,butrather
stayloyaltotheirlovefordenimandtokeeponmakingjeanswithinnovation
andpassion(Hospes,2007).
Gstarisconsideredaglobalcompanywith100monobrandshopsandwithits
headquarterslocatedinAmsterdam.In2003vanTillbugperformedan
independentmanagementbuyoutfromthegroupSeconandGStarbecamefully
independent.
HOWBIGISGSTAR?
Thereasonstobecomeindependentas
explainedbyTillburgaremainlybecausethe
Turnover:
companyalreadyownedaccounting,
2006:470Millioneuro
warehousingandpurchasingapartfromSecon,
2005:332Millioneuro
amanagementbuyoutwasthereforefacilitated
PointsofSale:
andrepresentedastrategicstepforthebrand
4.900pointsofsalein51lands,
(Hospes,2007).
fromwhichmorethan100are
GStarmonobrandshops(end
Thecompanyhas28offices,80showroomsand
of2007)
nearlyaround600employeesworldwide.G
Showrooms:
Starsgrowthstrategyhasbeenplannedstepby
80showroomsand28offices
step.Plansaredeveloped3yearsahead,in
worldwide
generalinthefirstyearisexpecteda40%
growth,theseconda10%growthandthirdan
Employees
8.5%growthrespectively.Theproductsaresold
600employeesworldwide(30
inaround60countriesandtheannualturnover
nationalities),fromwhichmore
than300areinThe
issaidtoreach500million(Dartmaanetal,
Netherlands
2006).
(Source:Adaptedfromthearticle:G
Star:VandepoldertotNY,Elsewier,
January,2008)
GStarisconsideredtobeaninnovativebrandinregardstofashionandstyling
butalsobecauseoffinishingandnewmaterials.Whencomparedwithother
51
OUTERWEAR
THE EU MARKET FOR DENIM JEANS
brands,GStar,astable4showsbelow,isintheinnovatorssegmentwith
mediumprocess.Table4exposesGStarsmaincompetitors,pricelevelsand
fashionacceptance.
Table 1.2 Major players in the jeans industry
Fashion
acceptance
Innovators
Trendsetters
Trend
followers
Late adopters
M&F Girbaud
Von Dutch
True Religion
Blue Blood
Nudie
Edun
Seven for all

mankind
J Brand
DKNY jeans
Armani jeans
Diesel
G-Star
Levi Red Premium
Replay
Only
Guess
Pepe
Miss Sixty
Dockers
Mustang
Edwin
Levi Strauss
Lee Jeans
Wrangler
Cheap Monday
Dr Denim
&D (H&M)
MNG (Mango)
TRFC (Zara)
Cars Jeans
Gap
Jinglers (C&A)
Tesco
Matalan
Zeeman
Price
High
! 80-200+
Medium
!50-120
Low
!20-60
--
--
No brand names
In the highest segments, difference can be made by:

! Fashion designers, offering separate jeans collections (often in combination with casual
collections) like Armani Jeans (Armani), DKNY Jeans (Donna Karan). The styling of these
9.6Stores:
jeans is often based on the standard jeans and far from innovative.
! Designers, such as Marith & Francois Girbaud and Von Dutch, are innovative in aspects
GStarcontinuestoopenmoreGStarstoresinkeycitiesthroughouttheworld.
like styling and fashion but also in materials including fabrics and finishing.
! Brands like True Religion, Blue Blood and Seven for all man kind are less innovative. They
TheinterioroftheGStarstoresisdirectlyconnectedwiththebrandsdriving
offer (generally spoken) basic jeans but with special fitting, such as push-up bottom or
designideals:rough,stylish,pure,andfunctional(seefig10,below).
unique finishing such as hand-sanded vintage washings. These brands give the consumer
the idea of an exclusive tailored and customized product.

Table4GStarandCompetitors(Source:CBIReportTheEUMarketforDenimJeans,2007)
Theinteriorusesonlynaturalmaterialssuchaswoodandleatherwithconcrete
andsteelshowcasingtheclothinginitspuredesignformandalsoenablesthe
All important retail channels have private label jeans in their assortment, using another brand
to underline the special character of the denim collection. Most popular are: &Denim by
Hennes & Mauritz, Fishbone by New Yorker, Jinglers by C&A, MNG jeans by Mango, Gapjeans
by Gap, Moto by Topshop and TRFC by Zara.
Production
The manufacture of denim jeans has been moved to a large degree out of the EU to low wage
countries, partly through the growth of traditional imports and partly through the initiatives of
EU manufacturers in transferring the location of their production, or parts of it, in order to
remain competitive. The trend in the market towards greater individualisation of products and
the need for quick response to fast-changing demand and fashion have, however, led to some
output being maintained in the EU.
Table 1.3 Production of denim jeans in the EU, 2002-2005*)
2002
2004
mln
mln
! mln
! mln
units
units
Italy
64.6
1,089.6
58.9
929.8
Spain
20.3
309.0
13.8
259.3
Portugal
4.9
78.8
4.7
77.3
Figure10GStarStoreFront,Barcelona
Romania
14.4
72.9
16.4
54.4
UK
11.4
168.9
6.5
89.1
(Source:www.fashionoffice.org/.../2006/gstar92006.jpg)
France
1.0
30.6
0.9
27.7
Greece
0.6
9.4
0.7
14.7
Germany
1.2
19.1
0.8
10.3
2005
mln
! mln
units
54.1
861.5
9.4
151.8
4.9
81.4
20.2
76.3
0.3
36.8
0.6
22.8
0.6
12.7
0.5
7.4
52
Source: CBI Market Information Database URL: www.cbi.eu Contact: marketinfo@cbi.eu www.cbi.eu/disclaimer
consumerstoidentifystronglywiththebrandandbecomefamiliarwiththe
overallstyle;accessibleluxurystreetwearandmasterfullycrafteddenim.
AsthebiggestdenimbrandinTheNetherlands,GStar,withitsstrongdesign
edge,mustbecomegreenerbyechoingthatdesignedgeinproductsthatareeco
friendly.Havinginmindtheconceptofraw,functionalandstrongdenim,GStar
ishastomaketherawdenimalsoorganic,togiveitadifferentinnovativeedge.
GStarneedstotakestepsindevelopingjeansandclothingthatpresentthesame
quality,innovationbutareasgreenaspossible.
Theuseofaminimumamountoforganiccotton,certifiedbytheOEBlended
Standard,theuseoforganiccottonthread,reinforcedstitchinginsteadofmetal
rivetsandotherecofriendlyhaberdasherylikerecycledzippersandtheuseof
ecofriendlypackagingandlabellingfromrecycledpaperaresimpleandeffective
stepsforGStartobecomegreenerandpreserveitsstrongdesignprinciples.As
innovationisthekeyforthebrand,aGStarecoproductwouldberawand
innovative,alwayssurprisingtheconsumer,withstyleandtimelessnessto
becomeaclassic.GStarmuststepuptoitsnameanddevelopjeansthatareas
innovative,stronganddurableastheyareenvironmentallyfriendly.Onlythen
thecompanywillbecomemorethanafashiondenimbrandandriseaboveits
competitorsthatareslowlygatheringpaceintheecoconsciousconsumertrend
exposedbythedeskandmarketresearch.
53
Chapter10.MarketResearch
10.1ResearchMethodology
10.1.1SecondaryResearch
Thesecondaryresearchisundertakenthroughtonarrowdownonamore
specifictopicwithmorepracticalmeaningsanddeeperthinkingforfurther
research.
DeskResearch
Torecap,theaimoftheresearchistodevelopanenvironmentalstrategytobe
usedbyfashionanddenimcompaniesbyintegratingecologicalconcernsinto
businessmodelsandconsequentlyastrategyformulation.
Deskresearchisaccomplishedbybackgroundstudiesandliteraturereviewin
ordertounderstandthecomplicacieswiththedefinitionofenvironmental
sustainabilityintheclothingindustryanddenimsector,alsotheroleof
legislation,nongovernmentalorganizations(NGOs)andtheconsumer.Asthe
researchareacoversawiderangeofrelevanttopics,articulationofan
appropriateresearchenvironmentandoriginaltriggersoftheresearchis
necessary.Thefirstchaptersdisclosethegeneralpictureoftheresearch
backgroundandhelpunderstandthestateofthefashionindustryinregardto
environmentalstewardship.
Oncemore,inordertogainprofoundknowledgeandinformationoftherelevant
areaoftheresearch,extensivereadinghelpedtodefinespecificsubjects,
problems,developedtheoriesandkeyplayers.Bystudyingtheliteratureby
accreditedscholarsandresearchers,thereasonableimportanceoftheresearch
andtofindouttheapplicationpotentialofthestrategythatisgeneratedatthe
endcouldbeconfirmed.
10.1.2PrimaryResearch
Thepurposeoftheprimaryresearchistounderstandmarkettrendsand
characteristicsandgatherconsumeropinionsregardingtheenvironmental
impactoffashion.
Duringthefieldresearch,primarydatawascollectedbymeansofonlinesurveys,
individualinterviewswithrelatedfashionprofessionalsandobservationin
shopswhereecoproductsarebeingmarketed.
Thegoalofthefieldresearchistoproducequantifiableinsightsintoconsumer
behavior,buyingattitudesandtogainbetterunderstandingofthemarket,
identifychanges,gainaunderstandingofconsumeropinionsandneedsandto
improvemarketawareness,byusingastructuredapproachandasampleof
people,inthecaseoftheonlinequestionnaires.
10.1.3HearingItFromTheBuyingPlace
Despitebeingaquantitativeresearch,thegoaloftheonlinesurveyisfocusedin
attitudes,values,opinionsandmotivationsoftheconsumer.Andalsotofurther
understandconsumerlifestyle.Theonlinesurveyisaneffectiveapproachtoget
54
theinformationwithinthetimelimitsandthefindingsarevaluableforfurther
discussionasithasthepowertobeusedasstrongevidencetoexplainthetopic
athandsandtoanalyzethepossiblesolutions.
QuestionnaireDesign
Thefirstquestionsofthequestionnaireaimatunderstandingparticipants
lifestyle,clothingexpenditure,importancegiventothecountryoforigin,
willingnesstobuyecoproductsandawarenessofecologicalproblems.The
secondhalfoftheonlinesurveyisdirectedatGStarconsumersandtheir
opinionofthebrandandthereasonstobuyGStarproducts;intotalthereare20
questions.Thequestionsaredesignedinareasonableorder,withsimple
languageandforthoseparticipantsthatdontknowGStar,thequestionnaire
designedallowedtocompletethesurveybutskipthoseparticularquestions.
(Pleaserefertoappendixforthecompletequestionnairetranscript).
10.1.4Findings
TheonlinesurveywasmadeavailablefromNovember2007untilMarch2008,
throughwww.surveymonkey.com.Aspecificlinkwassentthatallowed
respondentstoclickandcompletetheentirequestionnaireinnolongerthan5
minutes.Atfirsttherespondentswereselectedfromtheauthorsowncontact
databaseandafteritwassenttofashionstudentsfromtheAMFIandalsoposted
inwww.hyves.nl,inspecificGStarfangroups,someofthemhavingmorethan
20.000members.Thiswasdonesothatacomprehensivesamplecouldbe
obtained.
Atotalof85peopleaccessedthelinkandcompletedthequestionnaire;50.6%
maleand49.4%female.Themajorityoftherespondentsareagedbetween18
25(30.6%)and2530(23.5%).
Gender
49.40
%
Age
Male
50.60
%
Female
40>
3540
3035
2530
1825
<18
0.0% 10.0% 20.0% 30.0% 40.0%
Concerningoccupation,56.5%oftherespondentsareemployedwhile44.7%
arestudentsand10.6%haveotheroccupations.Noneoftherespondentsare
unemployed.Thefavoritehobbiesandactivitiesaremusic(51.8%),followedby
usingtheInternet(42.4%)andgoingout/clubbing(38.8%).Insecondplace
comereadingbooks(36.5%),sportsactivities(35.3%)andshopping(32.9%).
Readingfashionmagazines(21.2%)andspendingtimewithfamily(21.2%)
comeinlast.ItisimportanttomentionthatInternet,inallagegroups,ishaving
abiggerimportancethananyotheractivity.Hence,Internetshouldbe
55
consideredasanincreasinglyimportantmediumformarketingand
communication,inthiscasemorethanfashionmagazines.
Clothingexpenditureisasfollow:
MonthlyClothingExpenditure
200eur>
150200eur
100150eur
50100eur
050eur
0.0% 5.0% 10.0% 15.0% 20.0% 25.0% 30.0% 35.0%
Whenshoppingforclothingonly4.8%oftherespondentssaythatitisimportant
forthemtoknowwheretheirclothingcomesfromandhowisproduced.83.3%
oftherespondentsattributeimportancetodesign/fitfollowedbyquality
(53.6%)andprice(46.4%).However32.9%oftherespondentssaytheyare
interestedinknowingwhichcountrytheirclothingcomesfrombutthatdoesnt
constituteanimportantpurchasingfactor.
Themajorityoftherespondents(63.5%)isawareoforganicfabricslikecotton
andseemsveryinterestedinclothingthatisproducedinanenvironmentally
friendlymanner.
Interestinecofriendly
producedclothing
Awarenessoforganic
cotton
36.50
%
11.80
%
Yes
Yes
63.50
%
No
88.20
%
No
Whenaskediftheyarewillingtopaymoreforclothingproducedinaplanet
friendlyway,62.4%oftherespondentssaidyeswhiletherest(37.6%)arenot
willingtodoso.Theresearchshowsthattheinterestinecofriendlyclothingand
theawarenessofitsexistenceisquiterelevantandgainingmomentum.This
seemsnotyettobeinfluencingthedecisionsonclothingpurchasesasonly4.8%
thinksabouthowtheirclothingisproducedwhenshopping,butitshowsthat
theconsumerisawarethatthereareoptionsandtheyarewillingtospendabit
moreiftheyknowtheclothingattendstoecologicalconcerns.
Themajoritydoesntownecofriendlygarmentsbut35.8%answeredtheydid
own,apercentageexpectedtobemuchloweratthebeginningoftheresearch.It
showsthattheinterestedinecologyandfashionisslowlybecomingmore
56
importantasarelevantpartoftheconsumersarealreadytakinginaccount
environmentalaspectswhenbuyingnewgarments.
Regardingenvironmentalissuesandresponsibilityforenvironmentaldamage
thefollowingchartillustratestheresponsesobtained.
Itisinterestingtoobserve
thattheconsumer
attributesalmostthe
sameresponsibilitytothe
differentpartiesinvolved.
Consumer/Public
Theresponsesshowthat
30.90%
33.30%
theconsumersees
Governments/
ecologicalproblemsasa
PolicyMakers
concernofeveryoneand
Companies/
notonlyofgovernments
Brands
35.80%
orbigcorporations.
Thisshowsthatalsothey
arewillingtomakeeffortstochangethecurrentwaysandiftherightoptionsare
offeredtheywillembarkonhelpingthefashionindustrytodiminishits
environmentalfootprint.
ResponsibilityRegarding
EnvironmentalDamage
Butwhenaskedaboutorganizationsthathelpbrandstoproduceinbetterways,
only27.2%answeredthattheyknowsuchorganizations,whichcomestoshow
thatifabrandisconnectedwithacertifyinglabelororganization,better
communicationofthatlabelandwhatitstandsformustbeachievedtoputthe
messagemoreefficientlyacross.
ThelastsectionofthequestionnairefocusedonGStarshowsthat81.5%ofthe
respondentsknowthebrand,butonlyabout50%knowwherethebrandcomes
from.The66respondentsthatknowthebrandhaveheardofitmainlyin
magazines(42.5%),windowdisplays(33.8%)andoutdoorads(28.8%)and
theyansweredthatthemainreasonsforchoosingGStararedesign/fit(28.8%)
followedbyquality(12.5%),trends(11.3%)andpricecomesatlastwith1.3%.
HerewhatcanbeconcludedisthatforabrandlikeGStaritsimportantto
communicatewithitsconsumersthroughgoodmagazineandoutdoor
advertisingandtokeeponpresentinginnovativeproductswithgooddesignand
competitiveedge.Price,accordingtotherespondents,seemnottobethemost
importantfactorwhenbuyingGclothing,showingthatifanhypotheticaleco
collectionwastobedeveloped,theconsumerwouldbewillingtopaymoreifits
qualityanddesignwasjustifiable.
10.1.5Conclusions
Fromthequestionnaireresultsandanalysisitiseasilyidentifiablethatnumber
ofconsumersawareofenvironmentallyfriendlyfibersandclothingisnotaslow
aswouldbeexpected.Thepublicingeneralfeelsthattheyarealsoresponsible
fortheproblemsoftheenvironmentandifgiventherightoptionstheyare
willingtobuyandspendmoreonclothingthatattendstoecologicalconcerns.
57
Whattheconsumerisnotawareisoflabelsandcertificationsthatgiveclothing
brandsitsecologicalfactor,andthathastobetakeninaccountwhenacompany
wantstouseabodylikeMVONederlandtohelpinbringsustainabilitytothe
boardroom.Morecommunicationeffortsarethereforenecessary,theconsumer
needstobewellinformedofwhatthoseorganizationsareinvolvedwithand
howtheyhelpsbrandsinbeingabetterworldcitizen.
WithbrandslikeGStar,thathavebecomewellknownandtheconsumersare
loyalbecauseofitsestheticvalue,fitandquality,makingeffortstousemore
organiccotton,wouldbeokayeveniftheaveragepriceofthegarmentmustgo
higher,theconsumerseemstobewillingtopaymoreforagoodqualityproduct
thatisproducedinabetterwayfortheenvironment,becauseitaddsadifferent
valuetoitspurchase.
10.1.6DirectInterviews
Aspartoftheprimaryresearchtwodifferentprofessionalswereinterviewed.
ThefirstwasPaulaPontes,founderandheaddesigneroftheDutchbrand
TUBE,wheretheauthorwasaninternfor6months,whichproducesdifferent
typesoffashionbagsusingonlymaterialsthathavebeendiscardedbydifferent
industriesandthatotherwisewouldgotolandfilland/orpollutethe
environment.
ThedirectinterviewoccurredattheTUBEdesignatelierinEnschede,wherethe
brandislocated,onthe15thofMarch2008.Forthefulltranscriptofthe
interviewpleaserefertoappendix.
ThemainfindingsoftheinterviewwithMrs.PontesisthattheInternethasa
growingimportanceinthedivulgationofsustainablebrandsandthatthat
mediumhashelpedthebranddivulgateitsphilosophyandpromoteitsproducts.
ManyconsumersthatareinterestedinthosetypesofproductusetheInternetas
mainmediumtogatherknowledgeandinformationaboutsustainablebrands
andavailableproducts.
Furthermorethedesignerexposeshowdifficultitisforasmall,handmadelabel
tobesustainableinitsprocesses,mainlybecauseofthelackoftheright
sustainablematerialsandlackofinvestmentonthosematerials.
Whenaskedaboutifconsumerswereawareoftheimpactofclothingproduction
ontheenvironment,thedesignersharedthatithasbecome,inthelast10years,
veryimportantinpurchasingdecisions,thisisbecauseoflegislation,that
demandslabellingtobemorecomprehensiveandalsothefactthattheconsumer
isstartingtoaskmorequestionsaboutthehumanandenvironmentalconditions
ofclothingproductionprocesses.Theconsumerisverycuriousofwhathe\she
buysandthisinterestandsearchforawarenessisincreasingmorethanever.
Concerningotherbrandsandtheireffortstobecomesustainable,theresponse
wasthatthereislotofworktobedoneandmanybrandsareonlyinterestedin
financialwellbeing.Forafashioncompany,lowproducingcostsmeanshigh
salesandprofitsandthatmodelisdifficulttoleavebehind.Butother
58
developments,likeglobalwarmingandpollution,aremakingawarenessof
fashionsenvironmentalwaysafactorinthedecisionmakingprocess.
Fromtheinterview,canbeconcludedthatthedesignersees,sincethebeginning
ofhersustainablebrand,manychangesoccurringandthattheconsumeris
increasinglyinterestedindeeplyknowinghowtheclothingthatisavailable
cameofexistence.Theproblemsarethelackofinvestmentinsustainablefabrics
andinecologicaldesignandtherawmaterialsusedthatareextremelypolluting
fortheenvironment.
Thesecondperformedinterview,whichhasalreadybeendiscussedChapter
7.2.2,withGeertJanDavelaar,projectmanagerfortheDutchCCC,wasadvised
bythisprojectsprocesscoach,PatriciaBrien,inordertohaveanoverviewof
howthisNGOishandlinghumanconcernsinthefashionindustryandhow
brandsandthegeneralpublicisrespondingtoitsefforts.
TheinterviewhelpedtoclarifythepositionofactivistsandMSIintackling
ethicalconcernsintheindustry.Despitenotbeingdirectlyinvolvedwith
environmentalconcerns,theCCCishopinginthefuturetomakemoreeffortsin
thatdirection.
ForcertainfashioncompaniesabodyliketheCCC,canrepresentathreat
becauseoftheawarenesstheycreateinconsumergroupsandsocietyingeneral.
Insteadofregardingthistypeoforganizationsasintimidating,brandslikeGStar
shouldworkcloselytogetherwiththistypeofstakeholdersinordertohave
betterknowledgeoftheconcernsandproblemsregardinghumanand
environmentalconditionsofthefashionindustry.Formanymanagers,mainlyat
seniorlevel,bringingsuchactivistgroupsorstakeholdercanberegardedasa
menace,butwithdialogueandmutualefforts,itcanonlyrepresentgainsinthe
longterm.
GStarhastopromotedialoguewithconsumergroups,NGOs,producers,
supplierssothattogetherbettersolutionsandtransparencycanbeachieved,
whichcanonlybutpleasestakeholdersandinvestors.
10.1.7HowDoesEcoInMainstreamShopFloorsLooksLike?
Tounderstandhowbrandsthathavereleasedcollectionspromotedasecological
orenvironmentallyfriendlyaremarketingtheirproductsandhowtheconsumer
isrespondingtothosecollections,shopobservationsfeltnecessary,sothata
betterunderstandingofthemarketsresponsetosuchproductscouldbe
achieved.
ThethreestoresthatwerevisitedareJack&Jones,LevisandH&M.Allofthem
locatedinAmsterdamsKaalverstraat,themainshoppingareainthecity.
59
Jack&JonesShop
Thecompanyreleasedin2007thefirstecocollectionwith
planstodosothefollowingyear,which
isavailableinstoresnowandcertified
bytheGOTSwiththeEKOSustainable
TextileCertificationandthe
Fairtrade/MaxHavelaarcertification.
Thegarmentsweredisplayedinaseparatesectionofthe
shopwithspecificbannersandvisualmaterialtalkingaboutthebenefitsofthe
collectionandmoreinformationwasmadeavailablethroughabrochurethat
explainedwhythebrandstartedthiscollectionandalsohowtheconsumercould
indentifytheecogarments.Thisseemsratherunnecessary,sincespecific
merchandisestandwasbuiltforthiscollectionandwashardtomiss.
Manyoftheshoppersinthestorewouldstopbythestandandlookatthe
garmentsbutonlyasmallamountofthemgrabbedthebrochureandreaditin
theshop.Atthetimeoftheobservation,onlyonesaleofanecoproductwas
witnessed,duringaperiodof30minutes.Someoftheshopperspassedbythe
collectionwithoutgivingitmuchimportanceorifitcaughttheirattention
seemedtobebecauseofaparticulardesignorprint.
Whenoneoftheshopperswasaskedifhewouldratherbuytheecocollection
becauseitwasbetterfortheplanetinsteadofthenormalgarments,theanswer
was:OnlyifithasanicedesignandIreallylikeit,butIwouldnotjustbuyit
becauseitsgoodfortheenvironment.
TheimpressionthecollectiongivesisthatJack&Jonesisonlytryingtoattendto
anothertrendinfashion,inthiscasethegreentrendandthecompanys
environmentaleffortsseemstostopthere.
LevisShop
VisitingtheLevisshopwasmainlybecauseofthereleaseof
thefirstcertifiedecojeans
modelcertifiedbyControl
Union,withtheEKO
SustainableTextileStandard.
Therewasnoreferenceinthe
shopaboutthisproductandittookawhileuntilit
couldbefound.Evenafteraskingthesales
assistant,whowasnotawareofthismodeland
muchlooking,theLevisEcojeanwasfound,only
identifiablebyagreenLevislabelsimilartothe
traditionalredoneintherightbackpocketofthe
garmentandataginformingabouttheuseof
certifiedorganiccotton(seeFig.11)
Whatiscuriousisthatthestaffcouldnotgiveany Figure11Levi'secojeanstag
(Source:Author'sown,2007)
informationaboutthisgarmentandwas
60
completelyunawareofitsexistence,whichleavestoconcludethatLevis
environmentaleffortshavenotreachedthroughtheentirestaff.Forabrandlike
Levis,adifferentapproachwasexpected.Thestaffmustmewellinformedabout
thebrandsproductsandmustalsobeabletoexplaintoshoppersaboutit.
H&MShop
DuringthevisittoH&M,theeffortsthecompanyisdoinginregardstotheuseof
moreorganiccottoninitscollectionscouldbeobserved.Theproductsthatare
ecoorthatuseorganiccottonispresentinmanyareasanditfeelsthatisnota
marketingattemptbutatrueefforttoincludemorealternativefibres.
Organic Exchange
Blended Standard
Inthechildrensdepartmentthemajorityoftheclothingismadewithorganic
cotton,inotherareasmanygarmentscanbeeseenwithan
organiccottontag,notoverlyshown,ratherdiscreet.The
OrganicExchangewiththeOEBlendedStandardcertifiesH&Ms
ecofriendlygarments.
Manyoftheshopperswerepurchasingorganicgarmentsandin
everyrackthereweregarmentsthatusecertainamountsoforganiccotton.Itfelt
thatH&Mwasrathertryingtoeducatetheconsumerbypresentingsomany
garmentswithorganiccotton.ForH&Mloyalcostumersseemtobedifficultto
Terry Young, Organic Exchange
Francis Blake, Soil Association
avoidtheecogarments,sincesomanyareoffered.Since2007,thepercentageof
Hong Lee, Control Union
Marcus Brugel, IMO
organiccottonusedbyH&Mhasraisedconsiderableandthatcanbeseeninthe
Mark Prose, Control Union
Marty Mesh, Quality Certification Services
Rainer Baechi, IMO
shops.
Ramkrishnan Balasubramanian, Quality
Certification Services
Simone Hueber, IMO

Insteadofintensivelymarketingitsecoproducts,thegarmentsarealldisplayed
togetherandthereisnoinstorereferencesaboutH&Menvironmentaleffortsor
collections.Theseproductsarejustnaturallyofferedanditsuptotheconsumer
tolookforthemortodiscoverwhattheyboughtduringorafterthepurchase.
Oneoftheshopperssharedthatsheisveryhappytoseethatsuchabigcompany
asH&Missellingorganiccottongarmentsandthatthepriceisthesameasother
clothingintheH&Mstore.Shealsostatedthatrecentlyshepreferstobuy
clothingwithorganiccottonbecauseofadocumentaryshesawintheBBC,about
theproblemswithpesticidesintraditionalcottonproduction,whichshewas
unawareofbefore.
!""#$
Mainstreambrandshavealreadyintheirshopfloorsecoproductsandeach
brandshopvisitedisdoingthemarketinginitsownphilosophyandtransmitting
itsownparticularmessage.DoingtheshopsobservationprovedthatGStar
shouldalreadyhavestartedwiththeirownecocontributionforthemarket.But
sinceithasnot,thecompanycannowanalyzewhatandhowotherbrandsare
doinganddoitbetterintheGStarstyle.
Fromtheshopobservations,itisimportantforGStartoinformthestaffatall
storessellingGStarproductsabouttheseecoproducts,whocertifiesit,whatis
thestorybehindandwhatcharacteristicsitpresents.Thestaffmustbeableto
completelyelucidatetheconsumerabouttheproductanditsparticularities.
61
Secondlyanyecocollectionmustbewellidentifiablebymeansofpostersand
brochures,withthecertificationobtainedexplicitlyshowedandexplained,
furthermoretheecoproductsshouldbepartofastrongdenimmessage,thatties
GStarraw,functionalstylewithecofriendlinessandattentionforthe
environment.Shoppingbags,tagsandotherpackagingmaterialgivenatthe
momentofsaleshouldallbeenvironmentallyfriendly.
FromtheobservationdoneatH&M,itsclearthatasmallamountoforganic
cottonshouldbeofferedinallgarmentswheneverpossible,thiswouldbeforgar
tshirtsandsweatshirtsmainly.Notnecessarilybackedupbyextensive
promotionlikedenimoughttobe,butjustpresentedasblendedyarn,sothe
consumerbecomesevenmorefamiliarwithGStaruseoforganiccotton.
62
CHAPTER11.AdvisoryReportforGStarsEnvironmentalStrategy
ThischapterpresentstheconclusionsinformofanadvisoryreportforGStarto
improveitscurrentstrategyregardingenvironmentalattributes.Notonlyitcan
beusedbyGStarbutalsobyanotherothercompanythatseeksguidancein
improvingitscurrentactivitiesinregardtotheenvironment.
11.1CurrentEnvironmentalEfforts
AccordingtoPorter(1985),astrategyinafirmisthepatternofmajorobjectives,
purposes,orgoalsandessentialpoliciesandplansforachievingthosegoals,
statedinsuchawayastodefinewhatbusinessthecompanyisinoristobein
andthekindofcompanyitisoristobe.
Astrongstrategystatementisimportant,todefineprioritiesandalsotoprovide
asenseofunionwithinthebusinessanddirectiontowardswhicheveryoneinit
canworkfor.Itmustsummarizetheintentionsofthecompanyandbringsall
employeesworkingforthesameobjective.
Atthecorporatelevel,GStarsenvironmentalstrategyshouldunifyallits
businessactivitiestobeinlinewiththesameoverallgoal,toassessandtake
actionregardingnegativeandpositiveenvironmentalimpactsofallactivities.A
possiblestrategystatement,basedonthedefinitionofsustainability,wouldbeto
reconciletheeconomicgrowthofthecompanywithcaringforcommunityand
protectionfortheenvironment.
Itisnotpracticalforanycompanytoattendtoallimpactssimultaneously;
prioritiesmustbeestablishedbasedoninputsfromexternalandinternal
shareholders.Whileinastrategyofgrowth,itisfundamentalforGStartobe
abletosellmoreproductswhilekeepinginmindenvironmentalprotection.
SummaryofGStarscurrentenvironmentalefforts:
AssociationwithMVONederland.
Establishmentofamoreassertivecodeofconductalertingforthebrands
environmentalandsocialstandards.
EffortsindevelopingarathercomprehensiveCSRprogram.
Possibleproblemsfromcurrentstrategy:
Poortransparencyandtraceability.
Lackoftrustfromconsumerandshareholders.
Negativebrandimageduetolackofeffortsonenvironmentalandsocial
concerns.
Employeescannotworktowardsanoverallstrategicenvironmentalgoal
ifthisisnotspecified.
Complexsupplychain,difficulttocontrolbecauseofmanyproducersin
developingcountries,whereisalsocomplicatedtoaccountforecological
concerns.
63
11.2NewStrategyandObjectives
TodevelopmentastrategicplanGStarmustfocusesintheareasthathavethe
mostpotentialforimprovementandalsothatrepresentmostenvironmental
impact.Butasmentionedbeforeitwouldbeunrealistictotrytoattaintoall
environmentalimpactsinitsstrategy.Thesuggestedareastoactiononare:
Efficientenergyuse:
Worktowardsfindingsolutionstoreducecarbonfootprintand
environmentalrisksposedbyclimatechangeandsetanintensiveinterim
goaltoreducefootprintlikeM&Shasdonewithits5yearplan.
Useonlyelectricityfromalternativerenewableenergysourcesand
establishrenewableenergyrequirements,fore.g.windpower,
phototermalsolarpowerandphotovoltaicsolarpower,inheadquarters,
offices,showrooms,logisticalcentersandstores.
Buildefficientnewbuildingswithbetterlightningsystemsthatcan,long
term,reduceenergycostsorwellinsulateoradaptoldbuildings.Its
advisedtoreplaceincandescentbulbswithCFLbulbs(possibletoachieve
25%energyusereduction)overaperiodof12monthsintheAmsterdam
headquarters,the100GStarstores,the80showroomsandthe28offices
worldwide.Afterthatperiod,warehousesanddistributioncentersbulbs
shouldalsobereplacedoveraperiodof12months.
Logistics: AllvehiclesinthefleetthatprovidesservicestoGStarmustbe
requiredtocomplywiththeEURO5standardoftheEuropean
Commission.ThisisthehighestrequirementintermsofNitrousOxides,
Hydrocarbons,CarbonMonoxide,particlesandsmoke,anditissetto
becomemandatoryforallvehiclesregisteredfromOctober2009.Inother
words,incomplementingtheserequirements,GStarcanbemorethan
twoyearsahead.
Inheadquarters,allofficesandwhereexisting,printersshouldbe
replacedbytheToshibaTecBSX8Rprinterthatcanwipe
environmentallyfriendlypapercleanandreuseitupto500times.Carbon
dioxideemissionsarelessthanasixthcomparedofthoseofnormal
printers.Thiscanbeachievedoveraperiodof2years.
Shops:Developsustainablestoresbyfittingnew
lightingequipmentlikeCFLbulbs,offersustainable
awarenesscoursesandmaterialtostaffanduseonly
packaging,tagsandbagsthatareFSCorPEFC
certified,bothareinternationalstandardsthat
guaranteethatpaperisusedinsustainablemanner.
(Moreinfoatwww.fsc.org)
64
Adoptionofgreenbuildingdesign:
Makeallstores,headquartersandfacilitiesbasedonsustainabledesign
andconstructionstandardsanddeveloprespectivecriteria.
Createsmallerbuildingsthatcostlesstoheatandcoolandconstruction
methodssuitedtotheclimateandsiteinordertodiminishcostsin
heatingandcooling
Whenwoodisuseditshouldbelimitedtoharvestnumber
Forheadquarters,allshowrooms,storesandofficebuildingsGStarmust
obtaintheISO15392:2008,whichisthestandardforenvironmentally,
andsociallysustainableconstruction.Itmakessurebuildingsdonot
affecttheenvironmentanditisbasedontheconceptofsustainable
developmentasitappliestothelifecycleofbuildingsandother
constructionworks,fromtheirinceptiontotheendoflife(ISO,2008).
Improvedwasteandwatermanagement:
Exhaustivemonitoringandanalysisofwastemanagementactivitiesto
understandcriticalareasanddevelopcriteria.
Reducewastebyreusingmaterialsandrecyclingefforts:cardboard,
plasticandfabricwasteshouldbeseparatedatsourceandreused.This
shouldbedoneso100%ofthiswasteistobeused.
Othertypesofwastesuchasoil,batteriesorflorescentmattermust
receivespecialattentionfromcertifiedpersonnelwhodestroysthem.
Store:wastemanagementinvolvingtheselectivecollection,byauthorized
managers,ofcardboard,plastic,coathangers,securitytagsandoffice
waste.
Sustainableproductdesignandpackaging:
Designandpackagingmustrespectsustainablematerials,eliminationof
harmfulcomponentsandreuseofmaterialsandbecertified:all
packaging,tagsandlabeling,includingstorebagsshouldbeFSCorPEFC
certified.
Plasticsbagsusedmustbemadefrombiodegradablematter
Prioritizingthereuseandrecyclingofcardboardboxes,coathangersand
officewaste,throughasystemwherebytheyarereturnedtoalogistical
center.
65
Uselessmetalonstudsandrivets,byadoptingtechniqueslikereinforced
stitching,recycledmetalorconsiderweldingseemselectronicallyint
shirts.
Eradicaterestrictedsubstancesandchemicalsduringyarntreatments
andjeansfinishingsbyadoptingnewecologicalproceduresand
substanceslikeprereducedindigo,potatostarchandmimosaflower.
Useorganiccottonthreadandaminimumamountoforganiccottoninall
jeansandtherestofthecollection.
Consumptionofenergyduringmaintenance
byconsumermustbetakeninaccount,use
labelingtoinformconsumerofbenefitsof
washingat30degrees.AsthetagfromM&S
(seefig.12)GStarlabelingmusttellthe
consumerthatthebenefitsofwashingat30
degreeswhennotdirty.
GStarseffortsforsustainablegrowthshouldfocus
Figure12M&Swashinglabel
intheareasmentionedabove.Allactivitiesofthe
(Source:marksandspencer.com)
companymuststrivetoimplementsustainable
solutionsintheseareasandallemployeesmustbe
awareoftheirroleintheentiretyofthestrategicplan.Forthisitisimportantto
havewelldefinedstrategicobjectivesandtoestablishaformalframework
aroundtheseinordertocontroloperations.
Suggestionsfornewstrategyobjectives:
Bettertransparency,traceabilityandaccountabilityalongthesupply
chain.
Reviewallprocessesincurrentbusinessmodelandevaluatepractices
andoperationsimpacts.
Attainforsustainabledevelopmentinallactivitiesaligningwithsource
materialsandsuppliersthatarealsogoodcorporatecitizens.
Createenvironmentalawarenessatdesign,supplier,staffandconsumer
level.
Ensuringbusinesspartners/suppliersapplythesamecompanystandards
regardingsustainabledevelopment.
Improveproductsanditsenvironmentalimpactthroughinnovation.
Takeresponsibilityforproductstotallifecycle.
Createawarenessofenvironmentalimpactsatallstagesofproductlife
Establishbettercompanyimagewithmoretransparencyforconsumers
andinternalandexternalstakeholders.
Incorporateenvironmentalconcernsinitsmissionstatementand
philosophyofthebrand.
66
11.3BusinessUnitandFunctionalLevelSolutions
Atthebusinessunitlevel,GStarshouldtakestrategicactionbyestablishingan
environmentalplanthatcantacklethreatscomingfromcompetitors,changesin
legislation,economicandsocialcyclesaswellasconsumerchanges.Thisshould
beacomprehensiveplan,withconcretetargetsforaspecifiedperiodoftime.
WiththisinmindisalsoadvisableforGStartodesignandimplementitsown
EMSandacquireanISO14001certification,attendingtotheareasthatpresent
mostpossibilityforimprovementandthecompanysnecessitiesandconcrete
possibilitiesforaction.Environmentalinitiativesmustbeprofitableand
representcompetitorsadvantage;itshouldconstituteaprowgrowthstrategic
effort.
Atfunctionallevel,wheremostofthepracticalsolutionsneedtobe
implemented,thesuggestionsaretheactionsdiscussedinpoint11.2andin
addition:
Developconsistentapproachforassessingandcommunicating
environmentalattributesandbettermetricsonimpactsbyadoptingISO
standardsongreenbuildingandenvironmentalmanagementreferred
earlier.
AdoptionofaMSIapproach,wheretheconcernsofothergroupsnot
belongingtoGStar,canbeidentifiedandincorporatedintothestrategic
planning.ItisadvisedtodevelopbetterrelationshipwithCCCinHolland.
Createenvironmentaltrainingandplanningforallemployees,designers
andproducers,sothatstafflevelsareworkingtowardthesamegoaland
awarenessisgeneratedregardingsustainabledevelopment.Through
trainingprograms,brochuresandbookletsonsustainabilityforallGStar
staff
Createbettertransparencyinbusinessactionandtraceabilityofproducts
alongthesupplychain.Publicizingallcompanyactionsandefforts,which
arebeingmadetowardsenvironmentalstewardship,likearestricted
substancelist,canachievethisgoal.Itisadvisedtopublisheffortsinthe
environmentalcontextbyaddinginformationtowww.GStar.comor
createaspecificindependentpageonlyconcernedwithcommunicating
effortsregardingecoconcerns,policies,plansandresults.
Stimulatedialoguewithfactoryworkers,farmers,owners,designersand
3rdpartyauditorstoprovidegreatertransparencyfromfactoriesand
manufacturingpartnersthatcreateproductstotheendofproducts
lifespan.
Worktogetherwithcertifiedorganiccottonproducerstostimulatethe
useoforganiccottoninGStarcollections,thedevelopmentoforganically
67
producedfibersandparticipateonanddevelopsustainablecommunity
projects.
Implementacomprehensiveandrealisticcodeforsuppliers,informingof
brandstandardstoberespected.
Putsamefocusinmarketingasinproduction.
ReportingaccordingtotheUNreportingguidelines,theG3,which
specifiesguidelinesforenvironmentalreportinganddiminishfuture
accountabilityissues.
SWOTAnalysisforGStarEnvironmentalPlan
Strengths
Highbrandaware
Loyalcostumers
Innovativeproducts
AssociationwithMVO
Managementownscompany
MemberoftheOrganicCotton
Exchange
Opportunities
AdoptMSIapproach
Usewebsitetopublicize
actionsandefforts
regardingenvironme
Buildenergyefticientstores
Embracenewtechnologies
andimproveproducts
havinginmindecological
issues
Raiseawarenesswithstaff
anddesigners
Weaknesses
Toomanysuppliersandlack
ofcontrol
Complexsupplychain
Lackoftransparency
Noassociationwith
stakeholders
Noenvironmentalstrategy
Badpressandcourtcase
regardingsuppliers'human
conditions
PoorCSRprogramme
Threats
Competitorshavealready
startedwithenvironmetal
plan
Legislationisbecoming
harderoncompanies
regardingtheenvironmental
issues
Shiftinconsumerbehaviour
Costoftechnologyand
investment
68
Inconclusion,environmentalinitiativesshouldnotbetakentoprotectthebrand,
butrathertoenhanceit.GStarsstrategicactionsmustidentifyopportunitiesfor
improvingitssustainableperformanceandwhenthisisdonepubliclyand
awarenessisgeneratedinallbusinesslevels,itbringstransparencyandclears
divergingopinionsfromstakeholdersandNGOs.
NowisthetimeforGStartoestablishaformalframeworkaroundits
environmentalpractices,whileremainingeconomicallyviable.Thiscanbe
achievedwithgoodResearch&Developmentandinnovativeproductsthat
maintainthebrandscompetitivenessedgeanddesignphilosophywhilekeeping
thetriplebottomlinePeople,Planet,Profitinmindandnotonly,attentionto
innovationanddesignmustalwaysbepresent.GStarsenvironmentalplancan
startbyanysmallmeasurethatthecompanycantakeassoonaspossible.It
wouldberatherunrealisticforGStartoadoptallthesuggestionsmentioned
previously,butifthecompanystartsnowwithsmallstepslikeintroducinga
minimumamountofcottoninitscollectionsanduselessmetalonrivetsor
recycledzippersisalreadyhalfwaytobecomesustainable.
GStarenvironmentalplansmustencompasstheconceptofslowfashion,the
designprinciplesofCradletoCradleandthetypeofstrategicvisionadoptedby
M&SintheirPlanAIfGStaranalysesthiselementsandmodels,theycan
developitsownplanwithitsownidentity.
AlsoifGStarworkswiththerightgroups,likeOEandCCC,theprocessof
becomingsustainablewillbefacilitatedandGStarcanimplementsustainable
practicesintheirownstyle.Asdesignissuchacentralelementforthebrand,
actiontowardssustainabilityshouldstartthereandthenmovetoproduction
processesandsoon.
69
Chapter12.Conclusion
Thecurrentproblemsofthefashionindustrygofarbeyondasearchforanew
clothingstyleorbetterleadtimes.Withsomuchattentionbeingputon
environmentalproblems,theextremeuseofresourcesandthepollutionthat
resultsfromclothingmanufacturingprocesses,isnowmorethaneverregarded
asacriticalsituationthatmustbelookedatandeffectiveactiontaken.
Fashionbrandsandcompaniescanbepartoftheproblemorthesolution,itcan
seemoverwhelmingforanyenterprisetocommittoanalysetheproblemsand
developaplanthatjustmightstarttacklingsomeofthenegativeaffectsbeing
experiencedfromclothingproduction,butthisdoesnotmeanitisnotpossible.
Theconsumerhasslowlybecomingmoreconsciousandinquisitiveaboutthe
productsthatareavailableinthemarketandinwhichconditionstheseproducts
havebeenmanufactured.GStarmustseethisasanopportunityandregard
environmentalmanagementwiththesameenthusiasmandeffortasanyother
technologicaldevelopmentandinnovationandstartnowcaringforthe
environment.
Whenproblemsareregardedasopportunitiescompaniescannotbutexcelinits
competitiveedge.Theorganizationsthathavetakensomestepsinregardsto
environmentalstewardshipwillinthefuturehaveacertainadvantage,sinceits
businessmodelshavealreadytakendifferentshapesandhaveintegrated
environmentalconcerns,inregardstothosethatstillseenatureasanendless
providerofresources.
Agoodcorporatecitizenwillchoosesustainabilityovershorttermprofitsand
willnotexploititssupplychainwithoutconsiderationforecological,orsocial,
standards.
Withtherightgroups,activistsandNGOs,anycompanycancommenceto
analyseandprioritizewhatcanbedoneandwhatmustbedone.Itisnotan
individualorprivatetask,caringfortheenvironmentisresponsibilityof
everyoneanditcanonlybedoneifgovernments,companiesandthepublicin
general,joineffortsandstartnow.
70

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77
AppendixAInterviewwithGeertJan,CleanClothesCampaign.
InterviewwithGeertJanDavelaar,CCCheadquartersAmsterdam,21stMarch2008.
HowdidtheCCCstarted?
CCCstartedintheendofthe80sduetoproblemswithfactorieswhereC&Awas
sourcing.Activistsandwomensgroupsdidanactionandrealizedthattherewere
bigproblemsintheclothingindustryingeneral.Theresultwasacampaign
organizationfocusedincutmaketrim(CMT)processes.ThatishowCCCwasborn.
Currentlythereare13campaignsin12Europeancountries.Apartfromthese,we
haveanetworkof200organizationsinproducingcountriescomposedofwomens
groups,labourrightsgroupsandmanyothers.
Asanetworkorganization,thesegroupsprovidealltheinformation.CCCdoesnt
visitcountriesanymore;thegrassrootsorganizationsdoalltheworkinthe
developingcountries.
WhyfocusingonlyintheCMTprocesses?
Mainlybecausethispartoftheindustryissocomplexandsowewanttofocusin
labourconditionsinthoseprocesses.OtherCCCmightbeinterestedinaspectslike
environmentandhavethelibertytodoso;eachcampaignisindependentinits
interests.
HowdoestheCCCfunction?
EachCCCfunctionsindependentlyineachcountry,theInternationalSecretariatisin
HollandandtheDutchSecretariatcoordinatesthefundingandbigprojects.Ifthe
CCCinSpainisworkinginthesamesubjectastheFinishCCC,thesecretariatbrings
themtogether.
Atfactorylevel,whenweknowaEuropeanbrandissourcingfromsuppliersthat
haveproblems,wesendthecompanylettersalertingtothesituationuntilthey
respondortheyaction.Wealsocheckonthesocialauditingthatareperformed,
becausenotallauditorsworkthesameway,sometakeanhour(definitelynot
enough)andotherstwoweekstoperformanaudit.Wemakesuretheresultsthey
presentarecorrect
Whatisyourfunctionwithinthecampaign?
Imcurrentlyinvolvedinaprojectwithstudentsfromfashioncolleges,3yearsandin
4differentcountries;UK,Austria,PolandandintheNetherlands.IntheNetherlands
wefocusesonstudentsthatwillbethenextbigplayersinfashion.Wetrytomake
themawareofthepositiveandnegativeaspectsofthefashionindustryandwhat
theycandowhenworkingforabrandorclothingcompany.Basically,tomakethings
better,amoreethical,cleanandfairindustry.ThisyearthereisanexplosionfCSR
withstudents,theyaregettinginterestedbutIfeelalotoftutorsareCSRsick
becauseitsallsovague.Whatwewantwithstudentsistomakethemawareofthe
problems,engageandgivethemthenecessarytoolstoworktowardssolutionsin
theirfuturecarriers.
Whythedecisiontostartthisproject?
WewereinvolvedinaDutchprojectcalledModeBewust,4yearsagoandwith
FashioninganEthicalIndustryintheUK,sowedecidedtodevelopawhole
Europeanproject.
Doyoualsodoawarenessworkwithfashiondesigners?
78
Wewouldliketoincludethem,butfashiondesignersaremoreinterestedinfabrics
thaninlabourconditions.Westillneedtofindawaytoincludelabourconditionsin
designprocesses.Designersshouldbeawarethatiftheygetanormalfabricinthree
weeksandanembroideredfabricalsointhreeweeks,somethingiswrongwiththe
labourconditionsinthatfactory.
Howarecompanies,asGStar,respondingtoyouractions?Aretheyrespondingto
thehypeormakingatrueeffort?
Itreallydependsonthecompany.TheGStarcaseisverycomplexandeverything
thepublicneedstoknowaboutGStarisinourwebsite.Becauseofthecourtcase
wehadwiththebrand,thissubjectisverydelicate.
OneofthemostimportantCSRissuesistransparency.Thereshouldalwaysbea
dialoguebetweenallthestakeholdersinvolvedwiththecompany,insociety.Each
stakeholdercanlearn,evolveandtakethingsfurther,whichisacrucialaspectof
CSR.ThereistheneedtotalkaboutwhatisimportantforyouasCCC,asacompany,
asanenvironmentalorganizationorlabourgroup.Thesegroupsneedsomething
fromeachotherandthatisveryimportant.
Attendingtotheissues,reallydependonthecompanyandhowserioustheytake
thesubjects.Manycompaniesuseorganiccottonasaquickfixandthensaywecare
fortheenvironmentbecausewesell2organictshirts,ifyouthenlookatthe
companyitisonly1%ofthewholecollection,itmeansnothing.CCCwantstosee
thebigcompanieschangingthis;theyholdthepowertogetseriousandactivewith
theseissues.
Areyoucallingforarevolutioninfashion?
Itcouldbearevolution,butmanyeffortsinlabourconditionshavestartedlongago,
manycompaniesandgroupsarealreadyworkingpassionatelyonthissubject.
Andwhy?
Therearemanyfactors,therearenewcompaniesbasedonlyonethicalideologies
andtherearesomethatneedCSRasaPRtool,whichisfineinaway.Companiesin
thefashionbusinessshouldbeawarethatconsumersandgroupswillaskquestions
aboutthethingstheysaytheyaredoingandwhattheyarereallymakinghappen.
Whatabouttheroleoflegislation?
Duringthe90sbecauseofalotopressurefromgroupsaboutclothingproduction,
companiesstartedtoimplementcodesofconduct.Thereareinternationalnormsby
theUN,writtendownbytheInternationalLabourOrganization(ILO),whichspecify
humanrightsforeveryone.Whatcompaniesdidwastoadaptcertainaspectsofthe
ILOconventionandmadetheirowncodeofconduct.Brandsandcompaniesthought
theywouldbeokay,butthenconsumergroupsaskedforauditsofthecodesof
conduct,theywantedtoknowwhochecksifthecodeswerebeingrespectedand
putinpractice.
Fore.g.,inChinaifacompanyhasacodeofconductsayingthatpeoplearefreeto
organizethemselvesintoanunion,howisthissupposetohappenifinChina,unions
areillegal?Thecodeofconductgoesagainstlocallawsandmakesthewholeissue
evenmorecomplex.Whatarecompaniesreallydoingforworkerstohavetheirsay?
Howistheroleoftheconsumerchanging?
Thegroupofconsumersthatwanttoknowhowandwheretheirproductsare
producedisgettingbiggerandbigger.Wearenowpastthehype.Youreadaboutit
everywhere.
79
Theconsumerawarenesshastodowithconsumergroupsinvolved,whichthereare
manyconcernedwithethicalandenvironmentalissuesinfashionandalsowiththe
easinessofgettingholdofgoodinformationaboutit.
Andbrands?
OneofthemainconcernsforCCCisbrands,likeKuyichi,thatpromisealotbut
deliversnothing,becausewecantcheckwhattheyarereallydoing.Kuyichionly
wantstosourcefromfactorieswiththeISO8000certification,butin2006,their
factorylosttheircertificationandsuddenlytherewere0%fairlabour
practices/rightsintheyearlyreport.
Thesupplychainisverydifficulttocontrol,injeansproductiontherearealmost50
differentstepstocoverandthatiscomplicated,reasonwhycompaniesshouldwork
togetherlikeNike.Nikeisinvolvedinagoodmultistakeholderinitiative(MSI).That
wasreallynecessarybecausealloftheproblemstheyfacedinthepast.NowNike
haswholedepartmentsinvolvedwithenvironmentalandsocialissuesandisreally
doingsomeprogresses.
Whataresustainablesolutionsforenvironmental/socialissuesinfashion?
MSIisoneofthepracticalsolutionsatthismomentbutwearenotthereatall.Its
stillverycomplexbutweseethingsarestartingtochange.InChinathingschange
rapidly,nowcompaniessourcefromtheinteriorofChinawhereischeaperand
thosecompaniesevensourcefromcheapercountrieslikePhilippinesand
Bangladesh.Thereisaconstantmovementofsourcingcompanies.
Whatconcernsyouhavewithfashionsenvironmentalimpact?
Weareconcernedwithit,butwedonthaveenoughknowledgetocoverthatnext
tolabourconditionsinHolland,otherinternationalCCCmightworkonthesubject
becausetheyworkautonomously.Theresanoverallstrategybutactionsaretaken
atlocallevel.
WhatresultsisCCCobtaining?
In20years,theCCChasgrownawarenessatthegeneralpubliclevel.Many
companiesarenowworkingontheirCSR,adoptingtransparentcodesofconduct
andpublicizingthem.Therearealsomanysmallethicalbrandscomingupthatpush
biggercompaniesontheethicaldirection.Onafactorylevel,weseethatvisual
conditions(fireexit,cleanworkwear,masks)areimprovingalot.
Howaboutproblemswithjeansproduction?
Theproblemsarethesameinallfactories,becausemanyfactoriesproducealltypes
ofgarmentsnotonlyjeans.Environmentalimpactofjeansisbiggerthough,because
thedyesusedarenotecological.
Whatisyouropinionaboutorganizationsthatgiveoutcertifications(European
Union,OekoTex100,TheEKOLabel,etc)?
Theyarenopartnersofoursandwearenotinvolvedwithorganizationsthathelp,
labelorcertifyonenvironmentalissues.Whatweknowisthatnoncertifying
organizationslikeMadeBY,makealotopromisesbuthavenoclearresults.They
shouldshowtheconsumerwhattheirconcernis,transparency,labourconditionsor
theenvironmentbutnotpresenttheissueasifeverythingisokay.Companies
shouldmaketheconsumerawareoftheproblems,statewhattheyaredoingand
say,wearenotthereyet.
Itisbestforcompaniesandbrandstosaytheyaredoingthebesttheycan,instead
ofsayingthattheyarethebestethicalcompanyinthemarket,becausethereisno
furthertransparency.
80
AppendixBInterviewwithPaulaPontes
InterviewwithPaulaPontes,founderandheaddesigneroftheDutchbrandTUBE,
whichproducesdifferenttypesoffashionbagsusingonlymaterialsthathavebeen
discardedbydifferentindustriesandthatotherwisewouldgotolandfilland/or
pollutetheenvironment.
ThedirectinterviewoccurredattheTUBEdesignatelierinEnschede,wherethe
brandislocated,onthe15thofMarch2008.
Howdidyoustartyourlabel?
IstartedTUBErightaftergraduatingfromtheArnhemKunstInstitutein1997.For
mygraduationcatwalkshow,IwantedtoenrichmycollectionsoIdesignedacouple
ofmensbagsusingbicycleinnertiresanditwasaninstantsuccess.Intheshow
therewerepresentimportantbuyersandshopownersthatbecameveryinterested
andthefirstorderswerein.
WhatstheresponsetoTUBEproducts?
Theconsumerisveryinterestedinourproductandinourphilosophy.We
participateinmanyexpositionsandpresentationsanduntilnowtheresponsehas
beenverygood.Also,wecannotunderestimatethepowerofInternet,ithashelped
alottoexposetheproductsandithasbroughtdifferentclientsfromvariouspartsof
theworld.RightnowweareinnegotiationswithabuyerfromJapan.
Butbecauseweareasmalllabelandmuchoftheproductionisdoneinhouse,the
entireprocessfromconcepttoproductionisverytimeconsumingandsometimesis
difficulttobuildupstockanddeliverordersasfastasclientswouldlike.Thebagswe
produceareeachuniqueandhandmade;wearenotinterestedinmassproduction
ortobecomeoverlycommercial.
WhoisTUBEstargetgroupandhowimportantispriceasapurchasingfactor?
Ourtargetgroupgoesinhandwithitspurchasingpower.WhenIfirststartedIwas
interestedindesigningfortheyoung,trendyandurban,butthatspecificgroupcant
affordaoneofakindaccessory.Iquicklyunderstoodthatourtargetgroupismuch
older,averagebetween30to55yearsofageandoftenthetrendyworking
cosmopolitanswhoareinterestedinfashion,artandgoingtogalleriesand
museums.OnlyinTokyo,thepeopleinterestedinourproductarequiteyoung.
Howdoyoufindyourmaterials?
InthebeginningIsimplecalledafactorythatIknewhadmaterialstobediscarded
andthatIcouldusetomakebags,likevinylbillboardsandotherindustrialwaste.I
foundveryinterestingthingsinthegarbage.LateronIdecidedtoplacecontainersin
thefactoriesthatwereappealingtomesotheycoulddumpthematerialsthere.
Howawareistheconsumerabouttheimpactoffashionontheenvironment?
Itsnow,morethanever,goingintherightway.Allstartedwiththecorrectlabelling
ofgarmentsimposedbylegislation.Nowtheconsumerisveryinterestedinknowing
howtheproductspurchasedareproduced,inwhathumanandenvironmental
conditionsandwhere.
81
Howworrieddoyouthinkotherfashionbrandsarewiththeeffecttheyhavein
theplanet?
TheresstillalongwaytogoIthink.Brandsaremainlyinterestedinmakingmoney
andthecheaperyouproducethemoremoneyyoumake.Butawarenessof
environmentalconcernsstartstobeaphilosophyorstrategyforbusiness.Some
brandsarealreadyusingasPRormarketingstrategybecausetheresaremore
consumersinterestednowaboutitthaninthepast.Thebiofoodmovementis
growingverystrong;maybethefashionindustryisstartingabittoolate.
Canecodesignbemassproduced?
Nodoubtaboutit.Itsonlyaquestionoffindingtherightinvestors.
Whatarefashionsmainproblemsoftoday?
Mainly,theproductionofrawmaterialshaveabigimpactontheenvironmentandis
extremelypollutingandwestillremaindependentonproductionfromdeveloping
countries,whereproductsarecheapandacceptabletechnically.Theproblemisthat
inthosedevelopingcountrieshumanorenvironmentalconditionsarenotaccounted
for.ButtodaytheconsumerknowsthatwhathappensinChinesefactories,theway
workersareexploredandhowtheresnoconcernabouttheenvironment.Andthis
meansthattheresroomforchange.Hopefully!
82
AppendixCOnlinequestionnaire
1. Fashion & Environment Survey
Thank you for participating in this research.The duration of the survey is approximately 4 minutes.
* 1. What's your age?

j
k
l
m
n
<18
j
k
l
m
n
18-25
j
k
l
m
n
25-30
j
k
l
m
n
30-35
j
k
l
m
n
35-40
j
k
l
m
n
40>
* 2. Gender:
j
k
l
m
n
Male
j
k
l
m
n
Female
* 3. Occupation:
c
d
e
f
g
Student
c
d
e
f
g
Employed
c
d
e
f
g
Unemployed
c
d
e
f
g
Other
* 4. Choose 3 of your favorite hobbies/leisure activities.

c
d
e
f
g
Read books
c
d
e
f
g
Sport
c
d
e
f
g
Read fashion magazines
c
d
e
f
g
Internet
c
d
e
f
g
Shopping
c
d
e
f
g
Music
c
d
e
f
g
Going out/clubbing
c
d
e
f
g
Family
c
d
e
f
g
Other (gardening, sleeping)
* 5. How much do you spend on clothes monthly?

j
k
l
m
n
0-50 euro
j
k
l
m
n
50-100 euro
j
k
l
m
n
100-150 euro
j
k
l
m
n
150-200 euro
j
k
l
m
n
200 euro>
* 6. What's most important for you when shopping for clothing?(maximum 3)

c
d
e
f
g
Fabric
c
d
e
f
g
How/where is made
c
d
e
f
g
Brand philosophy
c
d
e
f
g
To feel sexy
c
d
e
f
g
Necessity
c
d
e
f
g
Quality
c
d
e
f
g
Price
c
d
e
f
g
Design/fit
* 7. Do you look for which country your clothes are made in?
j
k
l
m
n
No
j
k
l
m
n
Yes
83
* 8. Do you read tags, labels and washing instructions when buying new clothes?
j
k
l
m
n
No
j
k
l
m
n
yes
* 9. Have you heard of organic cotton?

j
k
l
m
n
No
j
k
l
m
n
Yes
* 10. Are you interested in clothing that is produced in a planet friendly way?
j
k
l
m
n
No
j
k
l
m
n
Yes
* 11. Are you willing to pay more for clothes made of organic cotton
or produced in a planet friendly way?
j
k
l
m
n
No
j
k
l
m
n
Yes
* 12. Do you own eco-friendly garments?

j
k
l
m
n
No
j
k
l
m
n
Yes
* 13. What do you do with your unwanted/old clothes?(maximum 2)

c
d
e
f
g
Give away (friends, charity)
c
d
e
f
g
Recycle
c
d
e
f
g
Trash
c
d
e
f
g
Sell
c
d
e
f
g
Keep them
* 14. Are you familiar with CO2 emissions?

j
k
l
m
n
No
j
k
l
m
n
Yes
* 15. Who should take most responsibility for environmental damage?

j
k
l
m
n
Consumer/Public
j
k
l
m
n
Government/Policy makers
j
k
l
m
n
Companies/Brands
* 16. Do you know organizations that help brands producing in better ways for the
planet or workers?
c
d
e
f
g
No
c
d
e
f
g
Yes
if possible name one:
* 17. Do you know the G-STAR brand?

j
k
l
m
n
No
j
k
l
m
n
Yes
84
* 18. Where have you heard of G-STAR?

c
d
e
f
g
TV
c
d
e
f
g
Outdoor ads
c
d
e
f
g
Magazines
c
d
e
f
g
Window displays
c
d
e
f
g
Internet
c
d
e
f
g
Other
c
d
e
f
g
Not applicable
* 19. What is the reason for choosing G-STAR?

j
k
l
m
n
Trends
j
k
l
m
n
Quality
j
k
l
m
n
Unique lifestyle
j
k
l
m
n
Strong brand
j
k
l
m
n
Design/fit
j
k
l
m
n
Advertising
j
k
l
m
n
Price
j
k
l
m
n
Not applicable
20. Where is G-STAR from?
85
AppendixDOnlinequestionnairefullresults
Fashion & Environment Survey

1. What's your age?
Response
Percent
Response
Count
<18
16.5%
14
18-25
30.6%
26
25-30
23.5%
20
30-35
12.9%
11
35-40
8.2%
40>
8.2%
answered question
85
skipped question
Response
Percent
Response
Count
Male
50.6%
43
Female
49.4%
42
answered question
85
skipped question
Response
Percent
Response
Count
Student
44.7%
38
Employed
56.5%
48
Unemployed
0.0%
Other
10.6%
answered question
85
skipped question
2. Gender:
3. Occupation:
86
Page 1

4. Choose 3 of your favorite hobbies/leisure activities.
Response
Percent
Response
Count
Read books
36.5%
31
Sport
35.3%
30
Read fashion magazines
21.2%
18
Internet
42.4%
36
Shopping
32.9%
28
Music
51.8%
44
Going out/clubbing
38.8%
33
Family
21.2%
18
Other (gardening, sleeping)
20.0%
17
answered question
85
skipped question
Response
Response
Percent
Count
5. How much do you spend on clothes monthly?
0-50 euro
22.4%
19
50-100 euro
32.9%
28
100-150 euro
24.7%
21
150-200 euro
11.8%
10
200 euro>
8.2%
answered question
85
skipped question
Page 2
87
6. What's most important for you when shopping for clothing?(maximum 3)

Response
Response
Percent
Count
Fabric
21.4%
18
How/where is made
4.8%
Brand philosophy
15.5%
13
To feel sexy
29.8%
25
Necessity
7.1%
Quality
53.6%
45
Price
46.4%
39
Design/fit
83.3%
70
answered question
84
skipped question
Response
Response
Percent
Count
7. Do you look for which country your clothes are made in?
No
67.1%
57
Yes
32.9%
28
answered question
85
skipped question
Response
Percent
Response
Count
No
40.0%
34
yes
60.0%
51
answered question
85
skipped question
Response
Percent
Response
Count
No
36.5%
31
Yes
63.5%
54
answered question
85
skipped question
8. Do you read tags, labels and washing instructions when buying new clothes?
9. Have you heard of organic cotton?
Page 3
88
10. Are you interested in clothing that is produced in a planet friendly way?
Response
Percent
Response
Count
No
11.8%
10
Yes
88.2%
75
answered question
85
skipped question
11. Are you willing to pay more for clothes made of organic cotton or produced in a planet friendly way?
Response
Percent
Response
Count
No
37.6%
32
Yes
62.4%
53
answered question
85
skipped question
Response
Percent
Response
Count
No
64.2%
52
Yes
35.8%
29
answered question
81
skipped question
Response
Response
Percent
Count
12. Do you own eco-friendly garments?
13. What do you do with your unwanted/old clothes?(maximum 2)
Give away (friends, charity)
91.4%
74
Recycle
18.5%
15
Trash
18.5%
15
Sell
9.9%
Keep them
19.8%
16
answered question
81
skipped question
Page 4
89
14. Are you familiar with CO2 emissions?

Response
Percent
Response
Count
No
40.7%
33
Yes
59.3%
48
answered question
81
skipped question
Response
Percent
Response
Count
Consumer/Public
30.9%
25
Government/Policy makers
35.8%
29
Companies/Brands
33.3%
27
answered question
81
skipped question
15. Who should take most responsibility for environmental damage?
16. Do you know organizations that help brands producing in better ways for the planet or workers?
Response
Percent
Response
Count
No
72.8%
59
Yes
27.2%
22
if possible name one:
18
answered question
81
skipped question
Response
Percent
Response
Count
No
18.5%
15
Yes
81.5%
66
answered question
81
skipped question
17. Do you know the G-STAR brand?
Page 5
90
18. Where have you heard of G-STAR?

Response
Percent
Response
Count
TV
10.0%
Outdoor ads
28.8%
23
Magazines
42.5%
34
Window displays
33.8%
27
Internet
20.0%
16
Other
33.8%
27
Not applicable
25.0%
20
answered question
80
skipped question
Response
Percent
Response
Count
Trends
11.3%
Quality
12.5%
10
Unique lifestyle
2.5%
Strong brand
6.3%
Design/fit
28.8%
23
Advertising
2.5%
Price
1.3%
Not applicable
35.0%
28
answered question
80
skipped question
19. What is the reason for choosing G-STAR?
20. Where is G-STAR from?

Response
Count
56
answered question
56
skipped question
29
Page 6
91

GStar Case Study

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DEVELOPINGAN

4HECATEGORYOFBASTlBRESINCLUDESRAMIE JUTEANDHEMP FOREXAMPLE

- Rainer Baechi, IMO

Seven for all

In the highest segments, difference can be made by:

the idea of an exclusive tailored and customized product.

Simone Hueber, IMO

* 1. What's your age?

* 4. Choose 3 of your favorite hobbies/leisure activities.

Read fashion magazines

Other (gardening, sleeping)

* 5. How much do you spend on clothes monthly?

* 6. What's most important for you when shopping for clothing?(maximum 3)

* 9. Have you heard of organic cotton?

2. Fashion & Environment Survey

* 12. Do you own eco-friendly garments?

* 13. What do you do with your unwanted/old clothes?(maximum 2)

Give away (friends, charity)

* 14. Are you familiar with CO2 emissions?

* 15. Who should take most responsibility for environmental damage?

if possible name one:

* 17. Do you know the G-STAR brand?

3. Fashion & Environment Survey

* 18. Where have you heard of G-STAR?

* 19. What is the reason for choosing G-STAR?

20. Where is G-STAR from?

Fashion & Environment Survey

Read fashion magazines

Other (gardening, sleeping)

5. How much do you spend on clothes monthly?

6. What's most important for you when shopping for clothing?(maximum 3)

9. Have you heard of organic cotton?

12. Do you own eco-friendly garments?

13. What do you do with your unwanted/old clothes?(maximum 2)

Give away (friends, charity)

14. Are you familiar with CO2 emissions?

15. Who should take most responsibility for environmental damage?

if possible name one:

17. Do you know the G-STAR brand?

18. Where have you heard of G-STAR?

19. What is the reason for choosing G-STAR?

20. Where is G-STAR from?

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4HECATEGORYOFBASTlBRESINCLUDESRAMIEJUTEANDHEMPFOREXAMPLE