Learn HDR in Photoshop, Colins HDR

photography tutorial
I originally wrote this tutorial for Photoshop CS3, in the years since then, Photoshop has gotten a couple
of big upgrades in the HDR area, and we are now at Photoshop CC. I have also learned a great deal
more about the subject, so I decided it was time for an update. This tutorial will work for all versions,
including CS6 and HDR in Photoshop CC. In CC Camera Raw was added as an option, more about that
soon.

What is HDR and why do we need it?

I n this tutorial we will take a look at HDR photography. HDRI (High Dynamic Range Imaging) was
originally used in 3D and is now in full force in photography. Basically its the process of taking multiple
exposures and merging them together into a single 32 bit image. Let me explain:
Watch the HDR Intro video that explains what HDR is

A camera is capable of capturing a limited amount of tones in a single photo (we call this dynamic Range,
the range of tones that can hold detail between pure black and pure white). Typically we sacrifice
elements in a photo when we set the cameras exposure. We meter for the most important part of the
scene. For example lets look at the series of images I shot at the Bradburry building in Los Angeles. The
center image is a typical exposure, showing an average metering to produce the most detail possible.
Notice that the detail outside the door is lost because its too bright. Also the detail on the stair rail is lost
because its too dark. When you are at the location, you are able to see all these detail with your eye, this
is because the human eye can see a larger range of tones than the camera can capture on the sensor or
film in a single photograph.

The solution is to take more than one photograph and bracket the photos. Shoot a normal exposure
(center image), then under-expose (left) to capture the highlights outside the windows and over-expose
(right) to capture shadow detail. Finally, merge these photos together to produce a single image with a
larger range of tones that can now show all the details in the shadows and highlights.
This tutorial will show you how to complete this process with the minimum fuss.

Tips for photographing HDR

First we need to capture our source images with our camera. Technically you will need to shoot a
minimum of 2 photos with different exposure settings to create a HDR. I personally get good results from
3 shots. I like to over expose and under expose by 2 stops each. I know this is a bigger bracket than
some people are comfortable with, but for the type of HDR images I like to create (cityscapes), this works
great. If youre shooting people, you may want to reduce this to single stops.
Sometimes you need to capture more than 3 exposures. It really depends on how much contrast is in
your scene. For the example of the Bradburry building, I captured a series of Photographs inside a dark
building in Los Angeles with a sunny day outside a glass window. I needed 7 photots with 2 stops apart in
order to capture the entire dynamic range of that scene. You might be able to capture a lower contrast
enviroment such as a foggy day in a single frame. But once again, for the majority of HDR photography 3
shots are usually perfect. I set the camera for Auto Exposure Bracket and 2 stops + and -. Make sure that
you only change the shutter speed. If you change the aperture, the depth of field will also change,

producing unwanted blurring in your final composite. Use a tripod if you can, otherwise support yourself
on a wall or solid object to reduce movement between frames.
Note: For real HDR, you shouldnt use a single raw image and exposure it several times as some people
suggest. This is unnecessary, as you can use the Shadow and Highlight recovery and adjustment brush
in Camera Raw or Lightroom to bring out the same amount of detail in the photo. Also there has been
misinformation circulating, using the term Single Image HDR. This is known as pseudo-HDR. You cant
get HDR (HIGH Dynamic Range) from a single SDR (STANDARD dynamic Range) photo. Its like
single speaker stereo, the digital informaition just isnt there. You can apply a tone-mapped effect to a
single image for a grungy feel. Its psudo HDR, but not to be confused with true HDR.
For more details see the full 4.5 hour video HDR and Photoshop

HDR in Photoshop tutorial

Step 1
Start with 3 images. One normal exposure, the second underexposed and the third overexposed. In this
case I used 2 stop bracketing. As I shoot a lot of city scapes I can get away with 2 stops, because Im
mainly shooting flat surfaces and banding and posterization isnt such a problem. If your shooting rounded
and curved surfaces you will want to lower your bracketing to get smoother gradients, although there is a
lot of overlap already in the tones as a decent DSLR camera can capture around 11 Stops of exposure.
I set the bracketing on my camera to 2 stops. Then I set the shooting mode to burst. When I hold the
shutter down, 3 photos will be captured. I shoot in the RAW format for the widest possible dynamic range.
You can still create HDR if your camera doesnt support RAW, but bear in mind a jpg is only an 8-bit file.
Make sure you shoot in Aperture Priority or in Manual. You want to bracket the exposure time, not the
Aperture. If you change the aperture, the depth of field wont be consistent and youll get blurring. Also
avoid any moving subjects in the photo or youll get ghosting where something is only in one frame and
will appear very strange in the final. If you look at the three image that I used here, the middle image has
a lot of detail. However, the details in the shadows are lost in the boats and the city lights are too bright
and lose detail information. The left image is under exposed to pick up the details in the highlights such as
the buildings in the background. The right hand photo is over exposed by 2 stops to pick up the detail in
the shadows, such as the hulls of the boats and water reflections.

Step 2
Time to merge the photos together into a single 32 bit image.
Choose File>Automate >Merge to HDR Pro. This works on Photoshop CS2 CS6 (CS2 Doesnt have
auto align and its called Merge to HDR on versions older than CS5). Choose either images or folder. I
organize each set of photos in its own folder so I used the folder option. Select your photos to merge.
Turn on Auto Align in Photoshop CS3+. Click OK. (Photoshop uses Auto-align technology that even
allows you to create HDR without the use of a tripod!)

Step 3
Your images will now be merged into a single photo. You can turn off individual photos by un checking
their boxes on the left filmstrip. If you get some blurring caused by camera shake in the longest exposure,
you may want to turn off that photo. If there is ghosting because of movement, click the box: Remove
Ghosts.
(When the mode is at 16 or 8 bit you will see settings like this, if 32 bit is selected, it will look like step 4)

Step 4
The merged result is a floating-point 32 bit image. Change the mode to 32 bit. You can view the available
tones by sliding the White Point slider. Note, this slider doesnt change the image, it is there for you to
examine the range of tones, because a monitor is incapable of displaying all the tonal detail in a 32-bit file
all at once.

Note: In Photoshop CC there is a new option. Complete Toning in Adobe Camera Raw This option
isnt in CS6. If you are on Photoshop CS6 and lower, jump to step 5 right now.
If you are on CC and the Complete Toning.. button is turned on, you wont be able to move the slider.
Click the option off and you will be able to move the slider and continue with the rest of the tutorial just like
in
CS6.
However, when the option is turned on, you will be able to use Camera Raw for the Tone Mapping instead
of the HDR Pro settings. In this case, skip to step 8b.

However, I recommend learning both methods as they each have merit. The HDR Pro tone mapping (step
5+) will give you more control and enable you to create a surreal effect as well as powerful HDR controls.
ACR (Camera Raw) has the advantage of being able to do very realistic HDR tonemapping without too
much effort.

Step 5
You could do your tonemapping right now if you like, but I like to save a 32bit negative. Click OK to merge
the photos into a 32 bit image. Now is a good time to save your file. Save as a psd, tif or open EXR.
If you are working with 3D and are wanting HDRI for IBL lighting, enviroments etc, save as open EXR as
Maya and other 3D packages recognize this format. (you are finished here, photographers read on).
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Step 6
In order to use the photos, youll need to convert them to 16 or 8 bit images. When we convert them we
will create what I call interpretations of the photo. The reason I say this is because we have unlimited
ways we can make the photo look. While we have this huge dynamic range available in 32 bit, we will no
longer have those options after conversion. Always work from the saved 32 bit version, and then convert

and save versions (personal interpretations). Avoid overwriting the 32 bit image, its our master and we
may want to go back to it many times.
Choose Image>Mode>16 bit (or 8 bit). Now we get to play with some fun options. Youre now at the tone
mapping part of the process. This is were all the creativity can ooze.
(If you want to make the adjustments without converting, choose view>32 Bit Preview Options. You can
use several of Photoshops tools in the Image>Adjustments menu. The most important of these is the
Exposure control)
Youll see an HDR Toning Dialog box (HDR Conversion for versions before CS5). Exposure and Gamma
is the default option. Best way to approach this? Set the gamma first, then adjust the exposure to suit. If
you want an image with lots of contrast, lower the gamma. For less contrast raise the gamma. Finally,
adjust the exposure to get the desired brightness. If you want more control, read on otherwise press OK
to convert.

Step 7
Change the Method to Local Adaption. (There are 4 available methods, but these are the only 2 with user
input).
With local Adaption, you get some advanced Tone Mapping sliders and you can adjust the curves. The
use of curves is optional as they allow you to fine tune the other settings. Set these like you would
normally work in curves, but dont be afraid to clip the histogram a little. You can clip because youre
working with a larger dynamic range than youre used to. Bring out the detail in the image, but dont forget
to put some shadow in there or it will look washed out and fake.

Edge

Glow

Once your happy with the curve, adjust the radius and strength sliders to make sure there are no halos in
the photo. (Badly converted HDR images have a glow around the areas of contrast.) The radius controls
the mask blur while the strength decides how strong to apply the effect.
Tone
and
Detail
Gamma: This is where you control the contrast. Extremes are washed out or super punchy.
Exposure:
Controls
Detail:This sharpens or softens the appearance.

the

overall

brightness.

Advanced
Shadow:
Highlight:

Opens
Recovers

up
details
detail
in

in
the

darkest
brightest

parts
areas

of
of

the
the

photograph.
photograph.

Vibrance: This makes the photo more colorful without over saturating areas that are already colorful. (Its
smart).
Saturation: Increases or decreases the overall amount of color. Be careful not to over saturate the colors
as a rule. (Of course all rules can be broken on occasion).
Click ok to convert.

Step 8
Here we have a merged image from HDR. Photoshop is great for producing very realistic HDR images.

Step 8b
HDR, Lightroom and Camera RAW, (Photoshop CC)
A new development in the latest release of Lightroom. 4.2+ and Camera Raw in Photoshop CC, is the
ability to work with 32 bit images. This is wonderful because you can use the adjustment brush to fine
tune areas of the photograph while working in a 32 bit enviroment. The image below shows the result of
working with the adjustment brush in Lightroom. Notice how I was able to craft the image. (The same is

possible

In

step

with

4,

ACR).

we

are

Read

in

the

on

Merge

for

to

HDR

instructions

Dialog

box.

1. Choose 32 bit from the Mode dropdown menu if it is in 8 or 16 bit mode.

2. Turn on the Complete Toning in Adobe Camera Raw button. The button at the lower right will change
from OK, to Tone in ACR.
3. Click the Tone in ACR button. THe image will now open in Camera Raw. You can perform all the usual
adjustments that you would do in Camera Raw, with the luxury of working on a 32 bit HDR image which
has much more availible detail in the highlights and shadows.(Take advantage of the shadow and
highlight sliders). See ACR Tutorial here
4. Click ok when Finished.
5. The image will still be in 32-bit mode. If you want to do further tonemapping, you can jump back to step
5 of this tutorial and work on your photo with the advanced tone mapping tools in Photoshop. Yes, you
can double tone map an image with great results.
If you are happy with the current results and finished working on the tonal adjustments of the image, you
just need to convert to 8 or 16 bit and finish off like you noramally would on a regular LDR (Low Dynamic

Range) image. Choose Image>Mode> 8 or 16 bit. The tone mapping options will pop up, to keep the
appearance exactly as it was in Camera Raw, choose Exposure and Gamma as the Method. Set the
Exposure to 0 and the gamma to 1. Click ok and your image is done. Congratulations. (I know there is a
lot to it, my 4.5 hour DVD makes it very easy to understand).
Note: If you cant get the HDR Toning tools to open in Photoshop CC thats because of a preference
seting. Choose your preferences>File Handling. There is an option that says Use Adobe Camera Raw to
Convert Ducuments from 32 bit to 16/8 bit If this is on, when you choose File>Mode you will see Camera
Raw. If the Option is Off, Photoshop will use the standard HDR Toning options.

Lightroom
(More info and free video on editing HDR in Lightroom and/or ACR)
In order to work with a 32 bit file in Lightoom, you must do the following.

1. Merge to HDR as mentioned earlier in this

tutorial.
2. Save as 32 bit file, be careful to save as a TIF, it will only work with a Tiff.
3. Import back into Lightroom
4. Use the adjustments as you would normally, but enjoy a lot more control and larger range of tones than
before.

Step 9

If your desiring a more surreal result there are different plug-ins that you can use. My favorite is
Photomatix pro from HDRsoft. You can just get the tone mapping plug in for Photoshop which works
great.
Use the coupon code photoshopcafe to save 15% on Photomatix plugin and Photomatix pro
Using photomatix tone mapping plugin allows you to get highly detailed textures in your photographs. You
merge in Photoshop as shown in this tutorial. Then choose Filter>Photomatix to apply tone mapping.
Convert and save as normal.

Step 10
This image shows an image after tone mapping using Photomatix pro.

Step 11
Here you can see comparisons between a single image, subtle Photoshop HDR and a radical Photomatix
effect Whatever result your after, hopefully this tutorial has helped demystify the HDR process.