Best of BW - Right Angle Weave

l
l
l
l
l
Best of
12
right-angle-weave
lllll
projects
Marta S.
project
puttin on the ritz

Leslee Frumin
technique
:: right-angle weave
See pp. 3536 for helpful

technique information.
Leslees fashion-conscious sister requested this necklace of

pearls and semiprecious stones. She gets tons of compliments
on the piece, but doesnt reveal her source . . . or the fact that her
source made it up in a day with right-angle weave!
More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com
2010 Interweave Press LLC. Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
page 1
1) Right-angle weave. Work a

61-unit chain of right-angle weave:
Unit 1: Use the thread to string 1 pearl
and 1 charlotte four times, leaving a
7' tail to work the clasp and fringe.
Pass through the first 6 beads to
exit the third pearl.
Units 2 and on: String 1 charlotte and
1 pearl three times. String 1 charlotte.
Pass through the last bead of the
previous unit and first 4 beads just
strung, exiting from the second pearl
(Fig. 1). Repeat fifty-nine times.
Materials
Fig. 3: Working the first fringe
4) Finishing. Pass through the
charlotte above the last pearl and

attach the clasp as in Step 2. Secure
the tail threads with 3 or more
half-hitch knots tied between
beads, then trim.F
3 g gold size 13 charlottes

30 amber 96mm top-drilled cubic
zirconia teardrops
244 peach 3mm pearls
1" of fine gold french wire
1 gold 10mm S-clasp with citrine inlay
15' of 6 lb braided beading thread
Tools
Size 12 beading needle

Scissors
Finished size: 16"
Artists Tips
Fig. 1: Units 1 and 2
2) Clasp. Use the tail thread to string

1 charlotte, " of french wire, and one
half of the clasp; pass back through
the charlotte and through the first
pearl. String 1 charlotte and " of
french wire; pass through the clasp
again and back through the charlotte
and the pearl. Tie a knot to secure the
thread, then pass back through
1 charlotte and 1 pearl to exit the bottom pearl toward the necklace (Fig. 2).
Fig. 2: Connecting the first half of the clasp
3) Fringe. String 1 charlotte, 1 pearl,

1 charlotte, 1 teardrop, 1 charlotte,
1 pearl, and 1 charlotte; skip a bottom
pearl and pass through the next bottom
pearl (Fig. 3). Pull snug and tie a halfhitch knot. Repeat entire step twentynine times.
If adjusting the length of this

necklace, it is a good idea to
work from the center of the
thread. Without cutting the
thread, unroll about 2' of
FireLine from the spool.
Thread the needle and start
stitching using right-angle
weave as in Step 1. When the
working end of the thread is
about 12" long, unroll 2'
from the spool, cut the
thread, add a needle to the
new end, and continue to
work the necklace as before.
Check the necklace length in
a mirror. Attach one half of
the clasp and work the fringe.
Recheck the length. Add or
subract units with the 12" tail.
Add fringe as needed and
attach the second half of the
clasp as in Steps 24.
If working with a box clasp,
make sure the necklace is not
twisted when attaching the
second half of the clasp. You
may find it helpful to keep the
clasp closed during stitching
to prevent one of the halves
from accidently getting
attached upside down.
Leslee Frumin, a bead and metal artist

from San Juan Capistrano, California, teaches
off-loom bead weaving and metal/jewelry
techniques. She has been published and won
awards in both areas, and her work is frequently
featured in trade magazines. Her passion for all
the colors and textures made possible by
beads, metals, and stones keeps her excited.
Her motto is so many beads, so little time.
Resources
Check your local bead shop or contact:
Cubic zirconia: Africa Stones (wholesale
only), (626) 962-5800, www.africa stones
.com. Kit for this project: www.leslee
frumin.com.

page 2
project
turquoise couture
J e n n i f e r Va n B e n s c h o t e n
Inspired by high-end
earrings found on the
pages of a fashion
magazine, these
easy-to-make right-angleweave earrings are
the perfect addition to
any fashion-forward
wardrobe.
Artists Tips
To strengthen and stabilize the earrings, weave as much of the extra working
thread as possible into the beadwork before trimming. Be careful not to break
any beadsif it feels tight when you insert the needle into a bead, dont force it.
techniques
:: s ingle- and doubleneedle right-angle

weave

When working with two needles, stash the extra needle to prevent tangling the
thread or losing the needle. If using a padded work surface, weave the needle
into the padding; if working on a hard surface, use a small piece of clear tape to
secure the needle.
This pattern is extremely versatile. Try replacing the turquoise rounds with
3mm gemstone, fire-polished, or crystal rounds, or size 8 seed beads.

page 3
1) Center. Use 5' of conditioned
thread and two-needle right-angle

weave to work the center strip
of the earring:
Row 1, Unit 1: Place one needle on
each end of the thread. Use the
right needle to string {1 size 15
and 1 turquoise round} four times.
Slide the beads to the middle of
the thread and pass the left needle
through the last turquoise round
strung to form a circle.
Row 1, Units 28: Use each needle to string
1 size 15, 1 turquoise round, and
1 size 15. Use the left needle to
string 1 turquoise round; pass the
right needle back through it to
complete the unit. Repeat to make
a strip 8 units long (Fig. 1).
Materials
Fig. 3: Side 1, Row 2, Unit 2
String 1 size 15, 1 turquoise round, 1 size 15, 1 turquoise

round, and 1 size 15; pass through
the top bead of the fifth unit in
Row 1. String 1 size 15 and pass
through the adjacent side bead of
the previous Row 2 unit; weave
through beads to exit from the top
bead of Row 2, Unit 2 (Fig. 4).
Row 2, Unit 3:
String {1 size 15 and 1 turquoise

round} three times and 1 size 15;
pass through the last bead exited to
form 1 unit (Fig. 5a). Weave through
beads to exit from the top bead of the
third unit in Row 1. Work 1 unit as
before (Fig. 5b). Set the needle aside.
Points:
2) Side 1. With the beadwork horizon-
tal and the working threads to the right,

use single-needle right-angle weave to
create one half of the earring:
Row 2, Unit 1: Using the needle that is
currently pointing up, weave through
beads to exit the right side of the top
turquoise round of the seventh unit in
Row 1. String {1 size 15 and 1 turquoise round} three times and 1 size
15; pass through the last turquoise
round exited and the first 6 beads just
added to form 1 unit (Fig. 2).
repeat Side 1 using the other needle.
4) Loop. Weave both needles
String 1 size 15 and pass

through the top turquoise round of
the sixth unit in Row 1. String 1 size
15, 1 turquoise round, 1 size 15,
1 turquoise round, and 1 size 15;
pass through the adjacent side bead
of the previous Row 2 unit and the
first 4 beads of this unit (Fig. 3).
Row 2, Unit 2:
Finished size: 3"
Open the loop of 1 ear wire as you

would a jump ring, attach it to the seedbead loop, and close the ear-wire loop.
5) Repeat Steps 14 for a second earring. F
Jennifer VanBenschoten lives in the
Adirondack Mountains of upstate New York
with her husband, her son, and their critters.
You can see more of her work and purchase
kits on her website, www.vanbeads.com.
Jennifer is the Guide to Beadwork for About.com.
Resources
Fig. 5: Adding the points
3) Side 2. Flip the work over and
Tools
Scissors
2 size 10 beading needles
2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers
Fig. 6: Completing the loop

Fig. 1: Row 1, the center strip
1 g metallic silver size 15 seed beads

104 turquoise 3mm rounds
1 pair of sterling silver ear wires
White size B nylon beading thread
Thread conditioner (optional)
through beads to exit from opposite

ends of the side bead at the start of
Row 1. Use each needle to string 5 size
15s. Use both needles to string 1 turquoise round. Use the left needle to
string 11 size 15s; pass back through
the beads just strung with the right
needle to form a loop. Weave each needle through the beadwork to reinforce
(Fig. 6). Secure the thread and trim.

Turquoise: Beads World, (212) 302-1199,
www.beadsworldusa.com. Ear wires and
Nymo nylon beading thread: Fire
Mountain Gems and Beads, (800)
355-2137, www.firemountaingems.com.
Seed beads: Out On A Whim, (707)
664-8343, www.whimbeads.com.
For a bold look,

use carnelian
3mm rounds
instead of
turquoise.

page 4
option
project
pewter lace
S m a d a r G r o ss m a n
techniques
:: d
ouble-needle
right-angle weave
:: netting
:: brick stitch

Use three different stitches

to weave a lacy, chic bracelet
suitable for holiday wear.
Artists Tips
Use longer bugle beads to create a wider bracelet.
Do not eliminate the B beads if altering the design; they help
protect the thread from the sharp edges of the bugles.

page 5
1) Base. Place a needle at each end of
4' of thread. Use A and 6mm rounds to

work double-needle-right-angle weave:
Unit 1: Use one needle to string 14A
and slide them to the middle of the
thread. String 1A on the right needle
and pass the left needle back
through it; pull tight to form a circle.
Unit 2: Use the right needle to string
5A and one 6mm round; use the left
needle to string 5A. Pass the left
needle back through the 6mm
round; pull tight.
Unit 3: Use the right
needle to string
b
6A; use the left
needle to string
5A. Pass the left
needle back
through the last
1A strung on the
a
right needle; pull
tight (Fig. 1a).
Units 423: Repeat
Units 2 and
3 ten times.
Unit 24: Use each
needle to string 7A;
pass each needle
back through the
Fig. 1: Starting
last 4A strung on
and ending the
base
the opposite
needle (Fig. 1b).
2) Nets. Use the
left needle to string
6A; pass back
through the first 2A
added to the left
side of the previous
unit, forming a net
between the final
2 units (Fig. 2a).
Weave through the
nearest 6mm round
and back through
the final 2A on the
right side of the
following unit.
Repeat, adding
6A between units
and weaving side to
Fig. 2: Adding nets

between units
side (Fig. 2b). Repeat entire step using

the right needle, adding 6A nets to
the empty spaces. Weave each needle
through the end unit so it exits from
the center.
Use the
thread ends
to tie a square
knot (Fig. 3);
secure the
threads
and trim.
Fig. 3: Securing the thread
3) Edging. Begin 4' of thread that
exits from the first A of the first
6A net, toward the beadwork. Work
stacked brick stitch:
Set 1: String 1C, 2B, and 1C; pass under
the thread between the second and
third A in this net and back through
the second C and second B just
strung. Gently pull the thread to
tighten. String 1B and 1C; pass under
the thread between the third and
fourth A in this net and back
through the beads just strung.
Large bridge: String 1A, one 4mm
round, 1A, 1B, and 1C; pass under
the thread between the fourth and
fifth A in this net and back through
the C and B just strung (Fig. 4a).
Set 2: String 1B and 1C; pass under the
thread between the fifth and sixth A
in this net and back through the
beads just strung. String 1B and 1C;
pass under the thread between the
sixth A in this net and the second A
in the base unit. Pass back through
the beads just strung.
Small bridge: String 1A, 1B, and 1C;
pass under the thread between the
second-to-last A in the next base unit
and the first A of the next net. Pass
back through the C and B just strung.
Set 3 and on: String 1B and 1C; pass
under the thread between the first
and second A in this net and back
through the beads just strung.
String 1B and 1C; pass under the
thread between the second and
third A in this net and back through
the beads just strung (Fig. 4b).
Materials
4 g nickel-plated silver size 11 seed beads (A)

2 g metallic hematite size 11 seed beads (B)
3 g matte gunmetal 3mm bugle beads (C)
24 metallic hematite 4mm fire-polished rounds
11 metallic hematite 6mm fire-polished rounds
2 sterling silver 5mm jump rings
1 pewter 15mm floral toggle clasp
Smoke 6 lb braided beading thread
Tools

Scissors
2 pairs of chain- or flat-nose pliers
Finished size: 8"
a
b
Fig. 4: Embellishing
the base
Repeat from the large bridge ten times

down the length of the bracelet.
Work a large bridge and Set 2 once
more. Weave through beads to
repeat the entire step down the
other side of the bracelet. Secure the
thread and trim.
4) Clasp. Use jump rings to attach one
half of the clasp to each end unit. F
Smadar Grossman lives in Israel, where

shes been beading and designing jewelry for
three years. Shes a self-taught beadweaver
who finds the discipline challenging but
enjoyable and a great medium for expressing
herself. See more of Smadars work at www
.smadarstreasure.blogspot.com.
Resources
FireLine braided beading thread, jump
rings, similar clasp, and all beads:
Artbeads.com, (866) 715-2323.

page 6
project
earth and sky

Ma r c i a D e C o s t e r
techniques
::
::
::
::
ladder stitch
brick stitch
right-angle weave
picot

Have fun creating lacy bead caps using a variety of seed

beads, crystals, and pearls; then join two together over a
larger bead. The result is a beaded bead dressed up with
sparkle and color. Wear one alone for a solo dazzler or
string with several others for a stunning necklace.
page 7
1) Bead caps. Work each bead cap

separately and join 2 together around
a larger bead:
Round 1: Use 3' of thread and one color
of C to work a strip of ladder stitch
12 beads long. Stitch the first and
last beads together to form a ring.
Round 2: String 3C; pass down through
the next bead in the previous round
and up through the following bead.
Repeat around for a total of 6 picots.
Weave through beads to exit from the
first bead added in this round (Fig. 1).
Repeat around, using either A or B

consistently, for a total of 6 additional picots. Exit from the second
bead added in this round (Fig. 3).
Dont cut the thread.
Fig. 3: Adding picots
Note: If your 16mm beads have wide

holes, use B to work 1 or 2 rounds of
decreasing brick stitch inside Round 1
of each cap (Fig. 4).
Fig. 1:
Finishing
Round 2
*String 3C and pass down

through the third bead of the picot
youre exiting. String 1D and pass
up through the first bead of the
next picot. Repeat from * around for
a total of 6 additional picots with 1D
between each. Weave through beads
to exit from the second bead added
in this round (Fig. 2).
*String 3A (or 3B). Pass

through the Round 3 bead just
exited to work another picot. Weave
through beads to exit from the tip of
the next picot of the previous round.
Round 4:
Tools
Size 12 beading needles

Wire cutters
Crimping pliers
Scissors
Finished Size: 17"
Round 3:
Fig. 2: Working Round 3
Materials
3 g turquoise shiny size 15 seed beads (A)

5 g bronze metallic size 15 charlottes (B)
7 g each size 11 seed beads in
turquoise-lined clear, turquoise matte,
gold metallic, and brown luster (C)
3 g gold metallic size 8 seed beads (D)
42 total 34mm cube, crystal bicone,
and fire-polished round accent beads
in bronze and turquoise
14 dark brown 119mm glass bicones
1 sapphire 14mm crystal rivoli
6 chalcedony or amazonite 1319
1825mm faceted nuggets
7 dark brown 16mm ceramic rounds
26 gold-filled or brass 6mm daisy spacers
2 gold-filled 2mm crimp tubes
24" of .018 beading wire
Fig. 4: Working brick stitch inside Round 1
Repeat Rounds 14 thirteen times for

a total of 7 pairs of matching bead
caps, using different bead colors in
each round so each final beaded bead
is unique. Set aside.
Round 5: Position 2 matching bead
caps on each end of one 16mm
bead so they mirror one another.
*Use one working thread to string
1 accent bead. Pass through the tip
of the matching picot on the
opposite cap. Pass back through the
accent bead and into the tip of the
picot you originally exited. Weave
through the beads to exit from the
tip of the next picot (Fig. 5). Repeat
from * around until the caps are connected. Secure the thread and trim.
Fig. 5: Connecting the caps
For extra embellishment, use

A or B to work 5-unit-long strips of
right-angle weave between the
strips of picots, attaching them to
the D beads of Round 3.
Optional:
2) Bezel. Use 3' of thread to work 1 row
of right-angle weave 19 units long, using

B for the top and bottom and C for the
sides of each unit. Check to see that it
fits snugly around the rivoli, leaving a
1-bead-wide gap for finishing. Weave
a second row using B and C as before.

page 8
Use B to work 1 more round. Use B

and follow a right-angle-weave thread
path to join the row ends (Fig. 6).
Fig. 6: Joining the row ends
Weave through all the top B and pull

tight to form a cup (Fig. 7). Place the
bezel facedown into the cup.
3) Assembly. Use the beading wire

to string 1 crimp tube and 8C. Pass
back through the tube and crimp,
leaving a 1" tail. String {1 bicone,
1 spacer, 1 beaded bead, 1 spacer,
1 bicone, 1 spacer, 1 nugget,
and 1 spacer} six times. String
1 bicone, 1 spacer, 1 beaded
bead, 1 spacer, 1 bicone,
1 crimp tube, and 30C or
enough C to fit snugly
around the bezel. Pass
back through the tube,
snug the beads, and
crimp. Use 1' of thread
to secure the strands
8-bead loop to the
back of the bezel.
Secure the thread
and trim close to
the work. F
Fig. 7: Pulling the beadwork so it cups
Weave through beads to exit from 1B

on the opposite edge of the ring. Use
B to work 1 round of right-angle
weave. Weave through all the top B as
before and pull tight to enclose the
rivoli. Weave through the beads to
exit from 1B on the top of the initial
row. String 1A and pass through the
next B. Repeat around to embellish
the edge of the bezel (Fig. 8). Set aside.
Fig. 8: Embellishing the edge of the bezel
Marcia DeCoster is a beadweaving artist

who enjoys living and working in her art deco
home in Southern California. Right-angle
weave offers many different design options,
which you can find in her new book, Marcia
DeCosters Beaded Opulence: Elegant Jewelry Projects with Right-Angle Weave (Lark
Books, 2009). Visit www.marciadecoster.org
to see Marcias extensive teaching schedule.
To hear more about her travels, read her blog
at www.maddesignsbeads.blogspot.com.
Resources
Swarovski crystal beads and rivoli, seed
beads, spacers, and wire: Out On A
Whim, (800) 232-3111, www.whimbeads
.com. FireLine braided beading thread:
FusionBeads.com, (888) 781-3559.

page 9
project
Strong cubic right-angle-weave tile
gates swing and sway between
beaded posts to form this cleverly
engineered bracelet.
medici gate
Ha n n a h B e n n i n g e r
techniques
:: c ubic and flat

right-angle weave

Artists Tips
It may be easier to learn cubic right-angle weave by practicing with larger beads first.
With cubic right-angle weave, its important to match the color of your thread as
closely as possible to the color of your beads because a lot of thread shows.

page 10
1) Posts. Use A to work cubic rightangle weave, first forming the center of
the post and then the decorative ends:
Cube 1: Leaving an 8" tail, use 3' of
waxed black thread and A to work
3 units of flat right-angle weave. To
work a fourth unit
that connects
Units 1 and 3,
string 1A and pass
down through the
end 1A of Unit 1,
1: Working
then string 1A and Fig.
Units 14 (indicated
pass up through
in blue) and joining
them into one side
the end 1A of
of the first cube
Unit 3. Exit from
(indicated in red)
a bottom 1A; pass
through all the
bottom beads to
form one side of
the cube (Fig. 1).
Fig. 2: Completing
Weave through the the first cube
beads to exit from
a top 1A; pass through all the top
beads, completing the first cube (Fig. 2).
Cube 2: String 3A; pass through the last
A exited in the previous cube and up
through the first 1A just added to
complete the first unit of this cube.
String 2A; pass through the next A at
the top of the previous cube, up
through the nearest 1A of this cubes
first unit, the 2A just strung, and
through the following 1A at the top
of the previous cube. String 2A; pass
down through the nearest 1A of this
cubes second unit, the nearest 1A at
the top of the previous cube, and up
through the first A just added. String
1A; pass down through the nearest
1A of this cubes first
unit, the closest top
1A of the previous
cube, up through
the nearest 1A of
this cubes third
unit, and through Fig. 3: Working
Units 14 of the
the 1A just added.
second cube (indicated in blue) and
Pass through all
passing through
the top beads,
the top beads to
complete the cube
completing the
second cube (Fig. 3). (indicated in red)
Repeat Cube 2 to form a

rectangle 12 cubes
Materials
long. Weave through
5 g matte gunmetal size 15 seed beads (A)
beads to exit from a
5 g opaque mauve size 15 seed beads (B)
3 g silver-lined opal pale lavender size
side 1A of the elev15 seed beads (C)
enth cube.
Size
D nylon beading thread in black
Ends: Use A to form
and lavender
1 cube on the left side
Beeswax
of the eleventh cube;
repeat on the right
Tools
side of the eleventh
Scissors
cube. Secure the
working thread and
Finished size: 7"
trim. Place a needle
on the tail thread
and weave through
beads to exit from
Fig. 4: Adding
a side bead of the
cubes to the sides
second cube. Use A
of the post ends
to form 1 cube on
the left side of the second cube;
repeat on the right side of the
second cube (Fig. 4). Secure the tail
thread and working threads and
Fig. 6: Tile color pattern
trim; set aside.
Rows 36: Work 4 more rows of cubic rightRepeat entire step six times for a total
angle weave, continuing to follow the
of 7 posts.
bead color pattern in Fig. 6. Secure the
thread and trim; set the tile aside.
2) Tiles. Work a flat square of cubic
right-angle weave with a diamond pat- Repeat entire step seven times for a
total of 8 tiles.
tern in the center:
Row 1: Leaving a 4" tail, use 4' of waxed
3) Hinges. Use B to work flat rightlavender thread and B to work a strip
angle-weave loops that will act as
of cubic right-angle weave as in Step 1, hinges joining the tiles to the posts:
but this time make it 8 cubes long. Exit Loop 1: Start 3' of waxed lavender thread
from 1B at the side of the eighth cube.
that exits from the third edge B at
Row 2: Use B to form 1 cube on the top
the top of 1 tile. Use B to work 1 unit
of the final cube of Row 1. Use C to
of right-angle weave off the bead just
form a second cube, incorporating
exited and a second unit off the
the top of the next Row 1 cube and
fourth edge B. Continue working flat
the side of the cube just made as the
right-angle weave to form a strip
bottom and side of this new cube
2 units wide and 5 units long (Fig. 7).
(Fig. 5). Repeat, adding 6 more cubes
across the row, following the bead
color pattern in Fig. 6.
Cubes 312:
Fig. 7: Flat right-
angle-weave strip
Fig. 5: Adding the second cube to Row 2

Figure 7

page 11
Getting Started
with Cubic RAW
If youre familiar with flat right-angle weave (RAW), youre ready for cubic RAW. Imagine a
childs block with six sides. Each side is made up of a unit of 4 beads sewn in RAW. Beginning
with 3 units of flat RAW, you will join the sides into a tube using common beads, and do the
same to the top and bottom, forming a six-sided cubic unit of 12 beads.
B o n n ie B r o o k s
1) Use 3' of thread to
string beads 14 in
alternating colors as
shown, leaving a 6" tail.
Tie a knot and pass through Fig. A
Beads 1 and 2 (Fig. A).
7) To join the 4 beads of
the same color on this side

of the cube into a unit, pass
through Beads 8, 7, 1, and
12 (Fig. G).
13) Turn the cube to
Fig. G
8) Pass through Beads 8
2) String Beads 57
in alternating colors
as shown. Pass
through Bead 2 from
the previous unit and
Beads 5 and 6 (Fig. B).
and 7 again and exit Bead 2

(Fig. H).
14) Repeat Steps 913 to continue
making a strip.
9) Begin the second
Fig. B
3) String
Beads 810
in alternating
colors as
Fig. C
shown. Pass
through Beads 6, 8, and
9 from the previous unit (Fig. C).
4) Stitch these
3 units into a
tube by stringing
Bead 11 and
passing through
Bead 4 of the first
unit. String Bead
Fig. D
12 and pass
through Bead 9 of the third unit. Continue to pass through Bead 11 (Fig. D).
5) Hold the cube so that
the side with Bead 11 (the
bead that the thread is exiting) faces you. To join
Fig. E
the 4 beads of the same
color into a unit, pass through
Beads 3, 5, 10, and 11 (Fig. E).
6) Pass through Bead 4
on the corner and Bead
12 on the opposite side of
the cube (Fig. F).
Fig. H
the other side. Pass

4
through Beads 18, 19,
3, and 13. Continue to
pass through Bead 18
Fig. M
and then through
Bead 17 on the corner (Fig. M).
Fig. F
cube by stringing
Beads 1315 in alternating colors as shown.
Notice this unit shares
Bead 2 with the first
Fig. I
cube. Pass through
Bead 2 and then
through Beads 13 and 14 again (Fig. I).
10) String
Beads 1618
in alternating
colors as
shown. Pass
Fig. J
through Bead 14
again to make Unit 2 of the second cube.
Pass through beads 16 and 17 again (Fig. J).
11) String Bead
19 and pass
through Bead 4
of the first cube.
String Bead 20
and pass through
Beads 17, 19, 4,
and 20 (Fig. K).
Fig. K
12) Turn the cube so
that Bead 20 faces

4
you. Pass through
Beads 1, 15, and 16.
Continue to pass
Fig. L
through Beads 20, 1,
and 15 again and exit
Bead 14 on the corner (Fig. L).

page 12
Wrap the strip around 1 post.

Right-angle-weave a sixth unit that
attaches to the other side of the
same 2 cubes the strip originated
from (Fig. 8).
Post:
Fig. 8: Looping and connecting a flat rightangle-weave strip around a post
Weave through the beads

along the top of the tile to exit from
the seventh edge B. Form another
strip as before, wrap it around the
post, and secure it to the other side
of the same 2 cubes the strip
originated from (Fig. 9a).
Loop 3: Weave through beads across the
body of the tile and exit from the
first edge B at the bottom of the tile.
Form a strip as before, wrap it
around a second post, and secure it
to the other side of the same 2 cubes
the strip originated from (Fig. 9b).
Loop 2:
Weave through beads along

the bottom of the tile to exit the fifth
edge B. Form a strip as before, wrap
it around the post just added, and
secure it to the other side of the same
2 cubes the strip originated from
(Fig. 9c). Secure the thread and trim.
Repeat entire step to connect the
remaining tiles and posts in the
same manner. Note: The ends of the
bracelet should be free of loops.
Loop 4:
4) Clasp. Use cubic right-angle

weave to work a beaded toggle clasp:
Clasp loop: Start 3' of waxed lavender
thread that exits from the top of the
second cube on the long edge of the
bracelets first tile. Use B to work a
strip of cubic right-angle weave
1 cube wide and 4 cubes long.
Weave through beads to exit from
the right side of the last cube
stitched; use B to work a strip of
cubic right-angle weave 1 cube
wide and 5 cubes long. Weave
through beads to exit from the
bottom of the last cube stitched;
use B to work a strip of cubic rightangle weave 1 cube wide and 2 units
long. Form a final cube that incorporates and attaches to the seventh
cube on the long edge of the bracelets first tile (Fig. 10). Secure the
thread and trim.
Clasp-bar post: Repeat Step 1 to form a
post, but this time make it only
10 cubes long. The cubes that form
the decorative ends will attach to
the second and ninth cubes.
Fig. 10: Working the clasp loop

Clasp-bar connection: Start
3' of waxed
black thread that exits from the top of
the fourth cube on the long edge of
the bracelets eighth tile. Use A to
form a strip 2 cubes wide and 3 cubes
long. Form a fourth cube that incorporates and attaches to the center
2 cubes of the clasp-bar post (Fig. 11).
Secure the thread and trim. F
Fig. 11: Connecting the clasp-bar post

Hannah Benninger has been fascinated
by beads since childhood. She wishes she
had more free time to execute her many
beady ideas.
Resources
Mauve seed beads: Turtle Island Beads,
(608) 356-8823, www.turtleislandbeads
.com. Nymo nylon beading thread and all
other beads: FusionBeads.com, (888)
781-3559.
Fig. 9: Tile-loop positions
Love beadwork projects?

get 24 more!
Enhance your skills and your jewelry collection with
these stunning designs in two of beaders favorite stitches:
herringbone and peyote.
Download your copies at interweavestore.com

page 13
modern art cuff
project
k at e m c k i n n o n
The cleverly engineered,

removable rams horn
clasp used in this stunning
double-layered bracelet gives
the design an unexpected
versatilitysince the closure
isnt stitched to the beadwork,
the inner layer doesnt bunch up.
techniques
:: square stitch


page 14
1) Gray strip. Work a large strip of

right-angle weave for the inside layer
of the cuff:
Row 1, Unit 1: Use 3' of size D thread to
string {2B and 1A} four times, leaving a 4" tail. Pass through the beads
again to form a circle, exiting from
the first 2B strung.
Row 1, Units 28: String 2B, 1A, 2B, 1A,
and 2B. Pass through the last 2B
exited on the previous unit and
through the 2B/1A/2B just added
(Fig. 1); repeat to form a strip 8 units
wide. Exit from the second B added
to the final unit.
Row 2, Units 48: Repeat Row 2, Units 2
and 3, to work a total of 8 units. Exit

from the top 2B of the final unit.
Rows 3 and on: Repeat Row 2 to work a
strip of right-angle weave long
enough to reach the wrist circumference, minus 2".
Embellishment: Weave through beads to
exit from the intersection of 4 units
at the corner of the strip. String
1 sequin and 1E; pass back through
the sequin and through the next
beads on the strip to exit from the
intersection of the next set of 4 units
along the strips long edge (Fig. 4).
Repeat to add sequin fringes down
the edge of the strip. Secure the
thread and trim.
Materials
4 g silver-lined gray size 15 charlottes (A)

5 g silver-lined gray luster size 11 seed
beads (B)
5 g matte silver-lined amber size 11 seed
beads (C)
3 g matte metallic copper size 11 seed
beads (D)
1 g purple luster size 11 seed beads (E)
4550 copper iris 6mm textured sequins
1 sterling silver 2330mm rams horn clasp
Gray size D and O nylon beading threads
Beeswax or thread conditioner (optional)
Tools
Scissors
Finished size: 7"

b
Fig. 1: Working Units 1 and 2 of Row 1
String 2B, 1A, 2B, 1A, and

2B; pass through the last 2B exited
from the previous unit, through the
beads just added, and the next edge
2B of Row 1 (Fig. 2).
Row 2, Unit 1:
Fig. 5: Square-stitching the copper band
2) Amber strip. Repeat Step 1, this
Fig. 2: Starting Row 2
String 2B, 1A, and 2B;

pass through the side 2B of the previous unit, the last 2B exited in
Row 1, and the first 2B just added.
Row 2, Unit 3: String 2B, 1A, and 2B;
pass through the next edge 2B on
Row 1, the side 2B of the previous
unit, the 2B/1A/2B just added, and
the next edge 2B of Row 1 (Fig. 3).
Row 2, Unit 2:
Fig. 3: Working Units 2 and 3 of Row 2
time using C instead of B and forming

the strip so its 6 units wide instead
of 8 units. Work the embellishment
fringes as before, randomly placing
them in the center 4" of the strip and
sometimes using D instead of E.
3) Ends. Connect the strips with
square-stitched bands:
Copper bands: Start 3' of size O thread
that exits toward the edge from the
bottom 2C of the amber rightangle-weave strips first unit formed
in Step 2. String 2D, pass through
the last 2C exited and the 2D just
added, and string 1A (Fig. 5a). String
2D, pass through the next 2D from
the previous row and the 2D just
added, and string 1A (Fig. 5b); repeat
to the end of the strip, omitting the
final 1A. Pass through the row just

page 15
a
t
e
d
il
Fig. 4: Stitching the fringe embellishment
stitched to reinforce it. Continue

working rows of square stitch, adding 2D over 2D and adding 1A
between each stitch, to form a band
17 rows long. Do not trim the
thread. Repeat entire step to form a
second copper band at the other
end of the amber strip.
Connection: With the embellished side of
the gray strip faceup and the embellished side of the amber strip facedown,
connect the final row of the copper
band to one short end of the gray strip
using a square-stitch thread path and
Artists tips
If altering the size of this
cuff, remember that it has
two layers and will need to
be longer than a simply
strung piece. For example,
Kate makes her own strung
pieces 6 to 6" long, but
in this piece, she needs the
finished cuff to measure
about 7" long. Add or
subtract a bit from each of
the copper bands as you
are finishing the piece.
making sure the band is centered side to

side. Weave through all the copperband rows again to reinforce; secure
the thread and trim. Repeat this entire
section using the other end of the copper strip and the free end of the gray
strip to end up with a long circular
band; do not trim the thread.
Loops: Fold the copper band with the
thread attached in half so the first and
seventeenth square-stitched rows
meet. Note: One half of the clasp will
go through this loop, so test to make

sure the copper strip will rest on top of
the gray strip and that all of the
sequins will face up once stitched. Use
a square-stitched thread path to join
the rows and secure the loop (Fig. 6).
Repeat the square-stitched thread
path to reinforce; secure the thread
and trim. To wear, slide one half of the
clasp into the loop just formed and
attach the other half to the fold of the
other copper band. F
Kate squares up the units of

the strips, if necessary, by
gently pushing a graduated
square bezel mandrel into
each cell. Dont have a
bezel mandrel? Just pick up
a piece of square brass tubing from the hardware store
in a diameter slightly smaller
than the holes and wiggle it
around in each cell.
Experiment with patterns and
color fades in your beadwork.
Even subtle changes, such
as the use of differentcolored beads that anchor
the sequins, can be exciting.
Fig. 6: Stitching one of the

copper bands into a loop
For subtle shimmer, add sequins between the

layers of beadwork as Kate did on the blue-andorange cuff below.
kate mckinnon is a writer, metalsmith, and

bead engineer who lives and works in her hometown of Tucson, Arizona. She is fascinated by the
quest to make things stronger, simpler, and more
flexible. Kate is the author of Sculptural Metal
Clay and Jewelry Architect (Interweave, 2010).
Resources
Seed beads: Janes Fiber & Beads, (888)
497-2665, www.janesfiberandbeads.com,
or BeadFX, Toronto, www.beadfx.com.
Nymo nylon beading thread: Fire Mountain
Gems and Beads, (800) 355-2137, www
.firemountaingems.com. Rams horn clasp:
Kate McKinnon Designs, www.katemc
kinnon.com. Sequins: Gail Crosman Moore,
www.gailcrosmanmoore.com.

page 16
1) Bezel. Thread one needle on each
project
end of 3' of thread to work a doubleneedle right-angle-weave bezel:

Round 1, Unit 1: Use the right needle
to string 3A, 1B, 2A, and 1B;
slide them to the center of the
thread. Pass the left needle back
through the last B strung to
form a right-angleweave unit (Fig. 1).
celestial sparkle
m ay b r i s e b o i s
Round 1, Units 211:
Stitch seven ultrasparkly

components and connect
them to create a bracelet
fit for a goddess.
Use the right neeFig. 1: Working

dle to string 2A and
Unit 1
1B; use the left
needle to string
3A. Pass the left
needle through the
last B strung to
form a unit (Fig. 2).
Repeat nine times Fig. 2: Units 1
and 2 of Round 1
to form a tight
right-angle-weave strip 11 units long.
Note: The work will curve, which
will aid in adding the rivoli later.
Round 1, Unit 12: Use the right needle to
string 2A; use the left needle to string
3A. Cross the needles through the
first B strung in Unit 1 to form a ring.
Weave through beads so the needles
exit the 3-seed-bead side of Unit 1
from opposite directions (Fig. 3).
Fig. 3: Completing Round 1
Note: This group of side beads is

hereafter called an edge set.
Round 2, Unit 1: Use the right needle to
string 1B; use the left needle to
string 1B and 2A. Pass the left
needle down through the B on the
right and continue through the
previous rounds next edge set.
Round 2, Units 211: Use the right needle
to string 1B; use the left needle to
string 2A. Pass the left needle down
through the B just strung and continue through the previous rounds
next edge set (Fig. 4). Repeat around
to add a total of 11 units.
technique
:: double-needle rightangle weave


page 17
Fig. 4: Starting
Round 2
Use the left needle to

string 2A. Pass the right needle up
through the first B added in this
round and back through the 2A just
strung to complete the round, but
dont pull tight (Fig. 5).
Round 2, Unit 12:
Fig. 5: Completing Round 2
Skip the next 3-bead edge set of the

first bezel and pass through the following one. String 3A, 1B, and 3A (Fig. 7a).
Pass back through the next edge set of
the second bezel, pass through the
6mm round, the skipped edge set of
the first bezel, the first set of beads
added in this step, and the next four
3-bead edge sets of the second bezel to
complete the figure-eight connection
(Fig. 7b). Repeat to connect all the
bezels in a row. Exit from a 3-bead
edge set at the end of the bracelet.
Materials
2 g size 15 seed beads (A)

180 olivine AB 3mm crystal bicones (B)
6 ruby 6mm crystal rounds
7 crystal vitrail medium 14mm foiled
crystal rivolis
1 sterling silver 12mm round box clasp
with garnet cubic zirconia inlay
4 brass 5mm jump rings
Tools
Scissors
Finished size: 7"

Insert 1 rivoli facedown so the
rivolis back is toward the loose
thread. Squeeze the rivoli into place
between the bicones. Once it is
properly seated, tighten the last
stitch from Round 2, Unit 12. Weave
one needle through the 2-bead edge
sets at the back of the rivoli; repeat
with the other needle in the opposite direction, tightening the back
of the bezel. When the needles
meet, tie a square knot (Fig. 6).
Rivoli:
o
opti
b
Fig. 7: Connecting 2 bezeled rivolis
3) Clasp. String 6A; pass through
Fig. 6: Tighten-
ing the back to

secure the rivoli
Weave through beads to the front

of the rivoli and repeat this section
to tighten the front of the bezel.
Secure the thread and trim. Set the
bezeled rivoli aside.
Repeat entire step six times to create
a total of 7 bezeled rivolis.
the next edge set at the end of the

bracelet to form a loop. String 5A;
pass through the sixth seed bead
previously strung and back through
the last edge set exited in Step 2 to
form a second loop. Repeat the thread
path to reinforce; secure the thread
and trim. Use 2 jump rings to attach
one half of the clasp, connecting a
ring to each seed-bead loop (Fig. 8).
Repeat entire step at the other end of the
bracelet using the other half of the clasp. F
Easy Earring Ensemble

For perfectly coordinated earrings, repeat
Step 1 to make 1 bezeled rivoli, stitch 1 wireguard (or seed-bead loop) to one 3-bead edge
set, and attach 1 ear wire to the wireguard/
beaded loop. Repeat for a second earring,
and voil.
may brisebois started beading in 2001.

Visit her website at www.beadifulgifts.com.
Resources
Clasp: A Grain of Sand, (704) 660-3125,
www.agrainofsand.com. Swarovski
crystals, FireLine braided beading thread,
and all other beads and findings: BEADiful,
(678) 455-7858, www.beadifulgifts.com.
2) Connections. Attach 5' of
thread to one of the bezels, leaving a

20" tail and exiting through a 3-bead
edge set. String 3A, 1B, and 3A; pass
through a 3-bead edge set of a second
bezel. String one 6mm crystal round.
Fig. 8: Attaching one half of the clasp

page 18
project
pharaohs
daughter
The rich texture and smart shaping of

this crenulated collar are achieved by
using graduated sizes of seed beads and
gathering a strip of right-angle weave
into a ruffle.
techniques
:: peyote stitch
:: fringe


page 19
1) Rib 1. Use 3' of doubled thread,

seed beads, and right-angle weave to
work the first rib:
Row 1, Unit 1: String 1A and 3B; tie a
knot to form a tight circle and pass
through the first 2 beads.
Row 1, Unit 2: String 2B and 1A; pass
through the last B exited from the
previous unit and the 2B just added.
Row 1, Unit 3: String 1A and 2B; pass
through the last B exited from the
previous unit and the 1A and first B
just added.
Row 1, Units 48: Repeat Units 2 and 3
until you have a strip 8 units wide.
the A added in the final unit (Fig. 1).
Work across the row with 3C in

each unit.
Row 5: Work across the row with
1C/1B/1C in each unit.
Row 6: Work across the row with
1B/1A/1B in each unit (Fig. 4).
Row 4:
Rib 2
Rib 1
Materials
8 g olive matte size 15 seed beads (A)

6 berry AB size 15 seed beads
10 g bronze metallic size 11 seed beads (B)
23 g olive matte AB size 8 seed beads (C)
31 olivine AB2x 3mm crystal bicones
6 volcano 4mm crystal sequins
30 bronze 3mm fire-polished rounds
2 gold-filled 68mm magnetic clasps
Tools
Scissors
Finished size: 16"
Fig. 4: Ribs 1 and 2
3) Ribs 310. Repeat Rib 2 eight more
Fig. 1: Working Row 1, Rib 1
Work across Row 1 using 3A in

each unit (Fig. 2).
times.
Row 2:
Fig. 2: Row 2 of Rib 1
Fig. 7: Working a 2-unit decrease in Rib 17
Work the ribs as before but

make a 1-unit decrease in Row 3 of
each rib for a total of 10 (Fig. 8), 9,
and 8 units respectively.
Ribs 2022:
4) Increasing ribs. Work the ribs
as before, making increases at the beginning of Row 1:

Rib 11: Repeat the bead pattern for
Rib 2 but work a 1-unit increase at
the end of Row 1 so the rib is 9 units
wide (Fig. 5).
Repeat Row 2.
Fig. 8: Working a 1-unit decrease in Rib 20
Row 4: Work across the row using 3B
in each unit.
Row 5: Work across the row using 3C
6) Remaining ribs. Work the rein each unit.
maining ribs as before:
Fig. 5: Working a 1-unit increase to begin Rib 11
Row 6: Work across the row using 1C
Ribs 2330: Repeat Rib 2 eight more
(side)/1B (top)/1C (side) in each unit. Ribs 12 and 13: Repeat Rib 11, increastimes.
Row 7: Work across the row using
Rib 31: Repeat Rib 2; work 1 more row
ing by 1 more unit in each rib so
1B/1A/1B in each unit (Fig. 3).
using 3A in each unit and 1 more
Rib 12 is 10 units wide and Rib 13
row using 3B in each unit.
is 11 units wide.
Ribs 1416: Work the ribs as before but
make 2-unit increases in Row 1 of
Artists Tip
Row 3:
Fig. 3: Completing Rib 1
2) Rib 2. Continue working right-angle
weave using beads in the following

order to create the second rib:
Rows 1 and 2: Work across the row with
3A in each unit.
Row 3: Work across the row with 3B in
each unit.
Fig. 6: Working a 2-unit increase to begin Rib 14
5) Decreasing ribs. Work the ribs

as before, making decreases in Row 3:
Ribs 1719: Work the ribs as before but
make a 2-unit decrease in Row 3 of
It is quite easy to decrease

accidentally when changing
bead sizes in right-angle
weave. Thus, it is helpful to
count the number of units at
the end of each row to confirm
the correct number before
moving on to the next row.

page 20
7) Clasps. Securely sew the clasp
halves to the ends of the necklace,

one between Units 2 and 3 and one
between Units 6 and 7 (Fig. 9). Secure
the thread and trim. Set the collar aside.
Slide the tube over the clasps

attached to Rib 31. Arrange the tube
so the sequins face up and the
tubes edge nearest the beadwork
touches Row 3. Securely stitch the
edge at the back of the tube to the
back of the necklace. Secure the
thread and trim.
Assembly:
necklace. Repeat from *, pulling

gently after each addition to cause the
beadwork to ruffle, until you reach
the final rib (Fig. 11). Even the thread
tension to form a smooth curve.
Secure the thread and trim. F
Fig. 11: Gathering the beadwork into a ruffle
Fig. 9: Attaching the clasps
8) Clasp cover. Use 3' of doubled
thread to create a beaded tube:

Tube: Peyote-stitch a strip 10 beads
wide and 48 rows long using 1B in each
stitch. Fold the tube so the first and last
rows interlock. Weave the beads
together to zip the strip into a tube.
Fringe: Weave through beads to exit
toward the beadwork, from a center
B on the tube. *String 1 sequin and
1 berry size 15; pass back through
the sequin and the next center B on
the tube (Fig. 10). Repeat five times
to add a total of 6 sequins.
Fig. 10: Embellishing the clasp cover
9) Final shaping. Start a 2' dou-
bled thread that exits from the first

side C of Rib 1 on the inside of the collar. *String 1 bicone and pass through
the next side C on the inside of the
necklace. String 1B, 1 fire-polished
round, and 1B; pass through the next
ribs first side C on the inside of the
marcia decoster is a bead artist, beadweaving instructor, and author of Marcia

DeCoster's Beaded Opulence: Elegant Jewelry Projects with Right-Angle Weave (Lark
Books, 2009). She lives in San Diego and considers her job perfect: sharing her knowledge
with others, meeting interesting beaders, and
playing with beads. Visit Marcia's website,
www.marciadecoster.com or read her blog at
www.maddesignsbeads.blogspot.com.
Artists Tip
hen adding the clasps,
W
make sure you have matching
magnets opposite one another.
Resources
FireLine braided beading thread and all
beads and findings: The Beading Frenzy,
(650) 347-2323, www.thebeadingfrenzy.com.

page 21
project
terracita
bracelet
Every year, Marcia travels

to the quiet coastal town of
Manzanillo, Mexico, loaded
down with design inspiration and beads. In December
2004, she brought with her a
book containing Frank Hess
designed costume jewelry from
the 1950s. A bracelet designed
with rose monte-studded
medallions caught her eye and
inspired her to create similar
shapes encrusted with crystals
and fire-polished beads and
joined end to end.
technique


page 22
1) Medallion base.
Use 4' of thread to string 16B;

tie a knot with the tail thread to
form a circle. Pass through the first
2 beads to begin the first round of
circular right-angle weave:
Unit 1: String 8B; pass through the last
2 beads passed through and the
first 2B just strung (Fig. 1).
Round 1:
thread direction for each unit.

String 4B; pass down through
the first 2 beads of the first unit,
back through 2 beads of the circle,
through the last 2 beads of the
previous unit and the first 2 beads
Unit 8:
Materials
10 g bronze luster size 15 seed beads (A)
15 g olivine gold luster size 11 seed
beads (B)
5 g green luster size 11 seed beads (C)
24 olivine AB 4mm crystal bicones
72 black 4mm fire-polished rounds
96 green mottled 42mm nailheads
1 gold 68mm magnetic clasp*
Beading thread in color to match beads
Tools
Scissors
Finished Size: 8"

Fig. 4: Finishing Round 1
Fig. 1: Working Unit 1
String 6B; pass back through

the next 2 beads of the circle, up
through the last 2 beads of the
previous unit, through the 6 beads
just strung and the next 2 beads of
the circle (Fig. 2).
Unit 2:
just strung (Fig. 4).

Round 2: String 7B and pass through
the last 2 beads passed through and
2) Embellishment. Cover the

base net with accent and seed beads:
Filling: Pass through a pair of beads
between 2 units in the second
round. String 1 nailhead and pass
through the next pair of beads
(Fig. 7). Continue around to add a
nailhead to each unit in Round 2,
then repeat to add a 4mm bead to
each unit in Round 1.
Fig. 5: Starting Round 2

Fig. 2: Stitching Unit 1
String 6B and pass through the

last 2 beads of the previous unit,
the last 2 beads of the circle, and
the first 2 beads just strung (Fig. 3).
Unit 3:
the first 2 beads just strung (Fig. 5).

Continue working right-angle
weave, stringing 5B and passing
through 2 beads of the previous
round in alternating directions
for each unit; string 3B to complete
the sixteenth unit (Fig. 6).
Fig. 7: Filling the Units of Round 2
Exit from a bead between

Rounds 1 and 2. String 3A and pass
through the next 2 beads; continue
around for a total of 16 picots (Fig. 8).
Center: Exit from a bead in the foundation circle. String 1 bicone, skip
2 beads, and pass through the
following 2 beads; repeat three times
to add 4 bicones to the center of
Picots:
Fig. 3: Working Unit 3
Repeat Units 2 and 3,

stringing 6B and alternating the
Units 4-7:
Fig. 6:
Finishing
Round 2

page 23
3) Connections. Work 2 right-
Fig. 8: Adding picots
the medallion. Pass through the

first bicone, string 1A, and pass
through the next bicone; continue
around (Fig. 9). Pass through the
angle-weave units along the edge of a

medallion, using 2 of the edge beads
and 6C to form the first unit. Work
2 more units using C beads, passing
through edge beads of a second
medallion, to make a 4-unit connection (Fig. 10). Embellish each unit with
a nailhead as before, then weave
through all the beads to reinforce the
connection. Pass through beads to
the opposite edge, and repeat to
connect the next medallion.
Fig. 11: Attaching the clasp
marcia decoster is a bead artist, beadweaving instructor, and author of Marcia DeCosters Beaded Opulence: Elegant Jewelry
Projects with Right-Angle Weave (Lark Books,
2009). She lives in San Diego and considers
her job perfect: sharing her knowledge with
others, meeting interesting beaders, and
Resources
Fig. 9: Working the center
bicones and seed beads several

times to reinforce. Weave through
beads to exit from the outer edge
of the last round. Pass through all
the edge beads, pulling the thread
tight to snug the beads together
and shape the medallion; pass
through the beads again to
reinforce, then set aside.
Repeat Steps 12 for a total of
6 medallions.
Fig. 10: The right-angle-weave connections
4) Clasp. Using C beads, work a

Swarovski crystals and seed beads: Out
On A Whim, (800) 232-3111, whimbeads
.com. Nailheads: Creative Castle, (805)
499-1377, www.creativecastle.com.
4-unit strip at the end of the bracelet,

opposite from the last connection.
Work a fifth unit and attach one half of
the clasp (Fig. 11). Weave through
beads several times to reinforce,
secure the thread, and trim. Attach
the other half of the clasp to the
underside of the first medallion near
the center of beads. F

page 24
project
egyptian collar
S h e ll e y N y ba k k e
This mighty necklaces multilayer

right-angle-weave rectangles are
woven separately and then
connected with loops of beads.
technique


page 25
1) Rectangle. Use seed and cube
beads to work a 3-layer rectangle with

right-angle weave:
Layer 1: Use 6' of thread and seed
beads to work a right-angle-weave
rectangle 9 units long and 4 rows
wide. Weave through beads to exit
toward the work from the bead that
connects the last 2 units made (Fig. 1a).
Layer 2 (vertical beads): String 1 seed
bead and pass through the next
Layer 1 vertical seed bead; pull the
thread tight until the bead clicks
into place. Repeat to add a total of
3 seed beads. Weave through the
next 2 Layer 1 beads to begin the
next row (Fig. 1b). Repeat this row
seven times to add a total of 24 beads.
the end of this layer (Fig. 3a). String

1 seed bead; pass through the next
Layer 2 horizontal bead. Pull tight
so the bead clicks into place. Repeat
down the strip to add a total of
6 seed beads. Weave through the
next 2 Layer 2 beads to begin the
next row (Fig. 3b). Repeat this step
to add a total of 12 beads.
a
Tools
b
a
Fig. 3: Layer 3 horizontal beads indicated in purple
Materials
100 g raw brass size 11 metal seed beads

1 turquoise 46mm rondelle
691 raw brass 2.5mm metal cornerless cubes
1 raw brass 5mm dimpled round
1 brass 1717.5mm dragonfly link
2 brass 18mm square links
1 brass 1" head pin
1 brass 1" eye pin
3 brass 5mm 18-gauge jump rings
1 brass 813mm lobster clasp
4" of brass 69mm etched oval chain
Use cubes to work off

the beads already added in this
layer for a total of 7 right-angleweave units (Fig. 4). Secure the
thread and trim. Set aside.
Scissors
Size 10 needle
Wire cutters
Chain-nose pliers
Round-nose pliers
Finished size: 19"
(adjustable to 21")
Layer 3 (cubes):
Fig. 1: Layer 2 vertical beads indicated in orange
Use seed beads

to work off the Layer 2 vertical beads
to complete 21 right-angle-weave
units, adding a total of 28 beads (Fig. 2).
Layer 2 (horizontal beads):
last one exited on the first rectangle

(this completes the top half of the
loop). String 4 seed beads, 1 cube, and
4 seed beads; pass up through the last
bead exited on the first rectangle to
form an oval loop, connecting the rectangles (this completes the bottom half
of the loop). Weave through beads
to exit down through the next
Layer 1 horizontal side bead on
the long side of the first rectangle
(Fig. 5).
Fig. 4: Adding the Layer 3 cubes
Repeat entire step twelve times for a

total of 13 rectangles.
Fig. 2: Layer 2 horizontal beads indicated in green
Weave through
beads to exit toward the work from
a horizontal bead left of center at
Layer 3 (seed beads):
2) connecting Loops. Connect

the rectangles with loops of seed and
cube beads:
Loop 1: Start 6' of thread that exits
up through 1 rectangles top right
horizontal bead on the long side.
String 4 seed beads, 1 cube, and 4 seed
beads; pass down through the bead on
a second rectangle that mirrors the
Fig. 5: Connecting 2 rectangles
Repeat the stringing sequence

from Loop 1 to connect the second
side beads of the 2 rectangles.
Loop 2:

page 26
For this and the following loops,

be sure that the top half of the loop
remains above the bottom half of
the prior loop (the loop halves will
begin to stack). Weave through
beads to exit from the rectangles
third side bead.
Loops 3 and 4: Connect the 2 rectangles
as before, stringing 4 seed beads,
2 cubes, and 4 seed beads for the
front and back halves of the loop.
the first rectangles next side bead.
Loops 5 and 6: Repeat as before, stringing 4 seed beads, 3 cubes, and
4 seed beads for each half of the loop.
Loops 7 and 8: Repeat as before, stringing 4 seed beads, 4 cubes, and
4 seed beads for each half of the loop.
Loop 9: Repeat as before, stringing
4 seed beads, 5 cubes, and 4 seed
beads for each half of the loop.
Repeat entire step five times to
connect a total of 7 rectangles.
Connect 3 rectangles to one end of
the necklace, replacing the 4 seed
bead/cube/4 seed bead sequences
with 6 seed bead/cube/6 seed bead
sequences; repeat to add 3 rectangles
at the other end of the necklace in the
same manner.
3) End loops. Form seed-bead
loops to connect the ends of the

necklace to the square links: Start
6' of thread so it exits up through the
middle Layer 1 horizontal bead on the
long side of one end of the necklace.
String 14 seed beads and 1 square link

and pass through the last rectangle
bead exited. Weave through beads to
exit down through the next Layer 1
horizontal side bead (Fig. 6). String
14 seed beads; pass through the square
link in the same direction as before
and down through the rectangle bead
last exited. Weave through beads to
exit up through the next Layer 1 horizontal side bead. Repeat entire step
down the side using 1618 seed beads
instead of 14 for the last 2 loops.
Weave through beads to repeat the
loop sequence on the other half of the
same rectangle, making sure all the
loops lie in the same direction. Secure
the thread and trim.
Repeat entire step on the other end of
the necklace to attach the remaining
square link.
4) Clasp. Add an embellished
extender chain and clasp to the links:
Extender: Use 1 jump ring to connect
2" of chain to 1 of the square links.
Chain embellishment: Use the eye pin to
string the rondelle and 5mm round;
form a wrapped loop that attaches to
the free end of the previous chain.
Open the eye-pin loop as you would a
jump ring and string the head end of
the dragonfly link; close the loop. Use
the head pin to string 1 seed bead;
form a simple loop that connects to
the tail end of the dragonfly link (Fig. 7).
Artists Tip
For added sparkle, replace the
cornerless cubes with 3mm
crystal bicones or rounds. To
avoid thread breakage when
working with crystals, switch
to a double strand of 10 lb
braided beading thread and a
size 12 needle.
Shelley Nybakke owns The Bead Parlor in
Bloomington, Illinois, where she also teaches
a variety of classes. She has the wonderful
privilege of traveling and teaching workshops
around the country. She thinks a day without
beads is hardly ever worth getting out of bed for.
Resources
beads and findings: The Bead Parlor,
(309) 827-7708, www.thebeadparlor.com.
Fig. 7: Embellishing the clasp chain
Use a jump ring to connect the

clasp to one end of 7/8" of chain.
Use the remaining jump ring to
connect the free end of the previous
chain to the remaining square link. F
Clasp:
Fig. 6: Attaching one end to 1 link

page 27
project
starshine jewel
S c a r l e t t la n s o n
techniqueS
:: tubular right-angle
weave
:: tubular peyote stitch
:: ladder stitch
:: h erringbone stitch
variation
:: picot
:: fringe
:: spot stitch

This stunning and versatile

accessory features an
otherworldly fancy stone
framed with crystals and a
dramatic flash of labradorite
accents. The piece is woven with an
embellished version of herringbone stitch and
closed with a matching embroidered silk ribbon.
page 28
1) Bezel. Use 3' of thread and tight
tension to work tubular right-angle

weave and peyote stitch, creating a
bezel for the fancy stone:
Round 1: Use C to stitch a strip of rightangle weave 23 units long and 1
unit high. Connect the first and last
units by stringing 1C and passing
down through the end 1C of Unit 1.
String 1C and pass up through the
end 1C of Unit 23 and the first 1C
strung for this unit (Fig. 1). Pull tight
to draw the strip into a ring.
2) Embellishment. Work rounds

of simple fringe off the bezel:
Round 1 (fringe): String 1 sand opal
bicone and 1C; pass back through
the bicone to form a fringe. Pass
through the next bottom 1C in the
round (Fig. 4). Repeat around to add
Fig. 4: Adding the first

round of fringe
Fig. 1: Stitching Round 1 into a ring
String 1B and pass

through the next 1C at the edge of
the ring; repeat, peyote-stitching
around, to add a total of 24B (Fig. 2).
Bottom, Round 2:
Fig. 2: Working Round 2 at the bottom of the

bezel
Work around in peyote

stitch with 1A in each stitch. Weave
through beads to exit from 1C at
the other edge of Round 1.
Top, Round 2: Work around in rightangle weave using A, pausing a
quarter of the way around to set the
fancy stone, faceup, into the beadwork (Fig. 3). Continue working
Bottom, Round 3:
a total of 24 fringes. Weave through

Round 1 of the bezel to exit a horizontal C, toward the bottom of the
bezel.
Round 2 (fringe): Pass through the next
2 C of the right-angle weave unit to
the right. String 1A, 1 purple haze
bicone, and 1A; pass back through
the bicone, string 1A, and pass down
through the nearest horizontal C to
the left in Round 1 of the bezel to
form a fringe. Pass through the next
2 C of the current right-angle weave
unit. String 1A, 1 purple haze bicone,
and 1A; pass back through the bicone,
string 1A. Pass down through the
nearest horizontal C to the right to
form another fringe. Repeat around
to add a total of 24 fringes (Fig. 5).
Weave through beads to exit the
bezel from 1C, at the top of Round 1.
Fig. 3: Working Round 2 at the top of the

bezel
right-angle weave with A, pulling

the beadwork tight against the
fancy stone with each stitch and
connecting the first and last units
as in Round 1. Weave through
the round again to tighten and
reinforce, closing any gaps so the
fancy stone is firmly seated. Weave
through beads to exit 1C at the
bottom of Round 1.
Fig. 5: Working the second round of fringe
String 1 rondelle and pass

through the next top 1C of the
bezels Round 1. Repeat to add a
total of 24 rondelles. Secure the
thread and trim. Set the bezel aside.
Round 3:
Materials
3 g palladium size 15 seed beads (A)

10 g matte metallic silver green iris
size 11 seed beads (B)
3 g metallic silver green iris size 11
seed beads (C)
2 g transparent silver size 11 seed
beads (D)
24 clear purple haze 3mm crystal
bicones
44 light rose satin 4mm crystal bicones
69 sand opal 4mm crystal bicones
1 clear starlight 1825mm crystal oval
fancy stone
93 labradorite 31.52mm faceted
rondelles
2 labradorite 6mm faceted briolettes
13" of brown 4mm silk cord
Tools

Scissors
Finished size: 1 7"

Artists Tips
Experiment with different
colors and textures of cord,
such as suede or velvet. You
can also switch the cords to
match your outfit.
Cull your beads before
working Round 3 of Step 2
to choose 24 of the
skinniest rondelles (about
1.5mm thick) for the bezels
gemstone embellishment
row (its unwise to force a
too-thick stone into this
round). If you find that these
skinnier rondelles have holes
too small to pass through,
remove your needle and
thread the bead without it
(you wont be passing
through these rondelles
again, so you wont need to
worry about getting a second
thread to pass through).

page 29
3) Long band. Leaving a 12" tail,

use 3' of thread and modified
herringbone stitch to work the
long half of the bracelet band:
Base: Work a strip of ladder stitch 2B
high and 9B long, leaving an 8" tail.
Exit up through the last 1B added.
Row 1: String 1B, 1A, and 1B; skip
1 base B and pass down through
the next 2 base Bs and up through
the following 2B. Repeat across the
row to form 3 picots. Step up for the
next row by looping under the
thread between the bottom base
beads, passing up through the last
2 base Bs exited, and through the
final bead added in this row (Fig. 6).
Fig. 6: Finishing
Row 1 of the
long band
String 1B, pass through the previous rows nearest A, string 1B, and
pass down through the next B of
the previous row; string 1C and
pass up through the next B in the
previous row. Repeat across the
row. To complete the row, pass
down through the first B added in
the previous row. String 1 sand opal
bicone and 1D; pass back through
the bicone and up through the final
B added in this row (Fig. 7).
Row 2:
one side of Round 3 at the back of the

bezel; keep the band centered (Fig. 10).
Fig. 8: Adding
fringe at the
end of Row 3
rose instead of 1 sand opal bicone.

Row 5: Repeat Row 3, using As in place
of the rondelles and using 1 light
rose instead of the sand opal bicone.
Rows 669: Repeat Rows 25 sixteen times.
Row 70: Repeat Row 3.
Rows 7174: Repeat Rows 4, 5, 2, and 3,
in that order, omitting the bicone
fringes. Make the step-ups for each
row by looping between threads.
Secure the working thread and trim;
do not trim the tail thread. Set the long
band aside.
Buttonholes: Leaving a 6" tail, use 2' of
thread to work a new piece of beadwork by repeating the base row and
Rows 1 and 2 of this step, omitting
the bicone. Repeat Row 3, but instead
of adding new rondelles, stitch into
the matching rondelles of the long
bands Row 71; omit the bicone. Stitch
1B into the gap on the outer left edge
of the band; weave the tail thread
through beads to stitch 1B to the
outer right side of the band (Fig. 9).
Weave the working and tail threads
through the beadwork around the
buttonholes to reinforce; secure the
threads and trim.
the long band to

one side of the
bezel
4) Short band. Create a band as before:

Band: Repeat the base row and Rows 114
(ending on a repeat of Row 3) of Step 3

to create a band 1" long; set aside.
Buttonholes: Leaving a 6" tail, use 2' of
thread to work a new piece of beadwork by repeating the base row and
Rows 16 of Step 3, but switch the
specified bicone colors (use light
rose for sand opal, and vice versa).
Repeat Row 3 of Step 3, stitching
into the rondelles of the 1" bands
Row 14 to create buttonholes.
Weave through the edge beads and
add the light-rose fringe necessary
to continue the pattern down the
sides of the band. Weave through
the beadwork around the buttonholes to reinforce; secure the
threads and trim.
Attachment: Use the short-bands tail
thread to attach its base row to the
opposite side of the bezel, stitching
through Round 3 and keeping the
band centered as before.
5) Cord. Tie a knot at the end of 3' of
Fig. 7: Working Row 2 of the long band
String 1B, 1 rondelle, and 1B;

pass down through the next 1B, the
adjacent 1C, and up through the
next 1B. Repeat once. For the final
stitch, string 1B, 1 rondelle, and 1B;
pass down through the next 2B.
String 1 sand opal bicone and 1D;
pass back through the bicone and
up through the final 1B added in
this row (Fig. 8).
Row 4: Repeat Row 2, passing through rondelles instead of As and using 1 light
Fig. 10: Stitching
thread, leaving a 10" tail. Stitch into

the cord " from one end at the seam.
String 1A, stitch into the cord right
next to the last stitch, and exit " farther down the seam (Fig. 11); repeat
down the length of the seam, leaving
" of bare cord at the end.
Row 3:
Fig. 9: Creating buttonholes
Use the long bands tail

thread to securely stitch the B at the
end of the base row to 7 of the As on
Attachment:
Fig. 11:
Spotstitching
the cord

page 30
String 10A, wrap the beads around

the cord, and pass through them
again to create a ring; pull tight. Work
6 rounds of tubular peyote stitch
using 1A in each stitch. Trim any
excess cord so it is flush with the end
of the tube. Stitch into the cord and
exit from the end. String 1 briolette;
pass back into the cord end and into
the peyote-stitched tube; repeat the
thread path to reinforce. Weave
through the tube beads to exit from
the last round. Work 2 more rounds
Ends:
of tubular peyote stitch using 1A in

each stitch so the beadwork frames
the base of the briolette. Secure the
thread and trim. Use the tail thread to
finish the opposite end of the cord in
the same manner.
Assembly: Overlap the ends of the
bracelet so the short band covers
the long band, with the buttonholes
aligned. Weave one cord end up
through one hole and the other
cord end up through the second
hole. Tie a bow to secure. F
Artists Tip
Scarlett Lanson has discovered many

new and ingenious ways to stitch with seed
beads. Her creative uses of crystals, gemstones, and pearls in tandem with woven
beadwork make her designs stand out. She
intends to publish an inspirational book for
beaders and run her own bead store in the
future. Visit her website at www.thebeaders
muse.com and contact her at scarlatte424@
yahoo.com.
Resources
his design is absolutely stunning as a choker. Simply create a

T
longer embellished cord, thread all of the buttonholes, and tie
the ends together at the back. Wear the focal off to the side for
a glamorous and fashionable look.

Kits, including Swarovski crystal bicones
and fancy stone (#4120), FireLine braided
beading thread, and all other beads and
findings: Scarlett Lanson, scarlatte424@
yahoo.com, www.thebeadersmuse.com.
Pump Up Your Peyote Stitch

Join artist and author Melinda Barta in 6 watch-and-learn lessons as she
shows you step by step how to create jewelry with one of seed-beaders'
favorite stitches.
Master flat, circular, and tubular peyote basics and learn how to step them up a notch with
advanced variations and embellishments to add texture, trim, and more!
Order your copy today to:
Get started the right way with a comprehensive tools and materials overview.
Learn must-know odd- and even-count stitches and shaping techniques.
Create pieces even faster with two-drop techniques for quick stitching.
Have even more fun with seed beads with 5 easy embellishments.
Discover the formula for creating your own one-of-a-kind patterns.
And more!
Watch a Sneak Peek Today at interweavestore.com/PeyoteDVD

page 31
project
ellipse
necklace
This elegant necklace

draws visual power from
the strong geometry in its
curved and layered rightangle-weave pendant.
techniqueS
:: r ight-angle
weave
:: peyote stitch
:: picot
:: ladder stitch


page 32
Materials
P e n d ant
1) Square. Use E to work a right-
angle-weave square (Fig. 1a) that will

a
later be turned and used as the
pendants central diamond:
Side 1: Use 5' of thread to stitch a strip
of right-angle weave 9 units long
and 3 rows wide.
b
Side 2: Work 3 units and turn. Work
back and forth on these 3 units for a
total of 6 short rows (you will now
have an L-shaped 9-by-9 unit).
Side 3: Weave through beads to exit
the inside edge of the final row of
c
Side 2 and work a new row of 3 units.
Work back and forth on these 3 units
for a total of 6 short rows (you will
Fig. 1: Working the central square and first ellipse
now have a U-shaped 9-by-9 unit).
Side 4: Weave through beads to exit
the corresponding 3 edge beads of
the inside edge of the final row of
the adjacent side of the square.
Side 3 and work 3 units. Work one
Repeat entire step on the opposite
more 3-unit row. Join the last row
corner of the square to create an upper
of Side 4 to the beads of Side 1 to
ellipse. Secure the thread and trim.
complete the square.
Set the blue pendant layer aside.
Repeat Steps 1 and 2, this time using
2) Ellipses. Working off opposite
C instead of A, and F instead of E to
corners of the square, use E and A to
make the bronze pendant layer.
work 2 right-angle-weave ellipses:
Side 1, Row 1: Weave through beads to
3) Layers and edges. Use G and
exit the third edge bead from a
right-angle weave to join the layers
corner. Use 3E to work the first unit. along their outside edges (each unit
Moving toward the corner, weave a
will consist of 1E, 1G, 1F, and 1G).
second unit using 1E for the bottom Work 1 row of right-angle weave
bead and 1A for the side bead. On
using E along the entire outside edge
the third unit, use 1A for both the
of the blue layer. Note: To work the
bottom and side beads (Fig. 1b).
Side 1, Rows 211: Work 3 units across
in the same bead-size pattern as
Row 1. The work will curve.
Side 1, Rows 12 and 13: Work 3 units across
using all E. Weave through beads to
exit the inside edge bead of Row 13.
Side 2, Row 1: Work 1 unit of 3E.
Moving toward the center of the
curve, stitch a second unit using 1E
for the top bead and 1A for the side
bead. On the third unit, use 1A for
both the top and side beads (Fig. 1c).
Side 2, Rows 29: Work 3 units across in
the same bead-size pattern as
Fig. 2: Working the extra row of E and
Side 2, Row 1. Join the final row to
the point increase
12 metallic gold size 15 seed beads

1 g blue metallic size 15 seed beads (A)
2 g dark bronze size 15 seed beads (B)
1 g bronze size 15 hex-cut beads (C)
1 g silver-lined orange size 15 seed
beads (D)
5 g blue metallic size 11 seed beads (E)
3 g dark bronze size 11 seed beads (F)
1 g light brown AB size 11 seed beads (G)
1 g reddish bronze size 11 cylinder
beads (H)
12 topaz AB 4mm crystal sequins
Tools
Scissors
Finished size: 25"
(with 1
5" pendan t)
corners, add an additional unit of

right-angle weave using 3E (Fig. 2).
4) Bail. Start 3' of new thread that exits
from the outside edge of the third unit

left of the tip on the blue layers upper
ellipse. Repeat Rows 111 of Step 2,
using E along the outside as before and
C (instead of A) along the inside edge
(Fig. 3). Fold the strip in half and join the
Fig. 3: First half of the bail
last row to the same blue layers edge

beads that are attached to the first row.
Repeat on the other side of the blue
layers upper ellipse to make a second
bail to mirror the first.

page 33
artists Tip
To increase your speed,
choose a manageable thread
length no longer than about
5'. Thread longer than this will
actually slow you down. The
time it takes to weave in a new
thread is minimal compared to
the extra pulls of thread, plus
the time spent to overcome
possible tangles.
5) Embellishment line. Weave
through beads to exit from an inside C

at the tip of the bronze layer. String 1D;
pass through the side 1C of the next
rows adjacent unit. Repeat to create an
orange line along the inside edge of the
ellipse (Fig. 4a), continuing through the
outside edge of the square (Fig. 4b), into
Fig. 4: Embellishing the bronze layer
the corresponding B of the next ellipse,

and up the other side of the square.
Secure the thread and trim.
N e ck lac e
6) Beaded beads. Use sequins,
cylinder beads, and seed beads to

peyote-stitch a beaded bead (Fig. 5):
Tube: Use 4' of thread to peyote-stitch
a rectangle 9H wide and 28 rows
long. Zip the ends together to form
a tube. Weave through beads to exit
1H at the tubes edge.
Fig. 5: Beaded bead
String 3E; pass down

through the next edge
bead and up through the
following. Repeat around
to add a total of 7 picots.
Repeat to add picots along the
other edge of the tube. Weave
through beads to exit 1H at the
midpoint of the tube.
Sequins: String 1 sequin and
1 metallic gold size 15; pass back
through the sequin and through
the next 1H. Weave through beads
to exit 1H four rows away; repeat to
add a total of 6 sequins. Weave
through beads to exit from an H
edge bead.
Rim: Ladder-stitch a strip of 20D.
Position the strip along the edge
around the tube and stitch the first
and last beads together to form a
ring. Sew through the strip and the
tube edge every few beads to tack
the strip in place. Repeat on the
other end of the tube. Do not cut
the thread.
Repeat entire step for a second
beaded bead.
Picots:
7) Rope. Work a tubular right-angleweave rope 5 units around and 25"

long, using 1E for both the top and
bottom and 1B for the sides of each unit.
Before joining the ends together, use the
rope to string 1 beaded bead, the bail,
and 1 beaded bead. Use the working
thread from the beaded beads to sew
them into place on the rope, 1" from
each side of the bail. F
artists Tips
Although it is never our intent,
occasionally a favorite piece
may require repair. In preparation for this possibility, Marcia
always fills a ziplock bag with a
few of each bead used in the
design and labels it with the
project name. These bags live in
her to repair drawer should
she ever need to utilize their
contents.
Marcia finds she is often inspired
to create a palette for a design
before shes ready to bead it.
She fills a small pencil box with
the chosen beads, labels the intended project, and places it in
her to be beaded pile.
marcia decoster is a bead artist, beadweaving instructor, and author of Marcia DeCosters Beaded Opulence: Elegant Jewelry
Projects with Right-Angle Weave (Lark Books,
2009). She lives in San Diego and considers
her job perfect: sharing her knowledge with
others, meeting interesting beaders, and
Resources
Check your local bead store or contact:
other beads and findings: The Beading
Frenzy, (650) 347-2323, www.thebeading
frenzy.com.

page 34
techniques
Ladder stitch
Square stitch
R i g h t- A n g l e W e a v e
For single-needle
right-angle weave ,
To decrease within a row, string 1 bead and

skip a loop of thread on the previous row, passing under the second loop and back through
the bead.
To increase within a row, work two stitches in
the same loop on the previous row.
Begin by stringing a row of beads.

For the second
row, string 2 beads,
pass through the
sec ond-to-l ast
bead of the first
row, and through
the second bead just strung. Continue by stringing 1 bead, passing through the third-to-last
bead of the first row, and through the bead just
strung. Repeat this looping technique to the end
of the row.
For circular square stitch, string the first
round of beads and
pass through them
again to form a
circle. Start a new
round by stringing 2 beads; pass
through the last
bead of the first
round and through
the 2 beads just strung. Repeat all around,
passing through the next bead of the previous
round for each 2 new beads strung. At the end
of the round, pass through the whole round
again to tighten the beads. Start a new round
by stringing 2 beads; pass through the last
bead of the previous round and through the
2 beads just strung. String 1 bead and pass
through the next bead of the previous round
and the bead just strung. Repeat around,
stitching 1 or 2 beads to each bead of the previous round, adjusting the count as necessary
to keep the work flat.
Fringe
Netting (single thread)
String 2 beads and pass through them again.

String 1 bead. Pass through the last stitched
bead and the one just strung. Repeat, adding
1 bead at a time and working in a figure-eight
pattern. Use this stitch to make strings of beads
or as the foundation for brick and herringbone
stitches.
Brick stitch
Begin by creating a foundation row in ladder

stitch. String 2 beads and pass under the closest
exposed loop of the foundation row and back
through the second bead. String 1 bead and pass
under the next exposed loop and back through
the bead just strung; repeat.
Exit from your foundation

row of beads or fabric. String
a length of beads plus 1 bead.
Skipping the last bead, pass
back through all the beads
just strung to create a fringe
leg. Pass back into the foundation row or fabric.
Stringing
Stringing is a technique in which you use

beading wire, needle and thread, or other material to gather beads into a strand.
Begin by stringing a base row of 13 beads. String

5 beads and pass back through the fifth bead from
the end of the base row. String another 5 beads,
skip 3 beads of the base row, and pass back
through the next; repeat to the end of the row. To
turn, pass back through the last 3 beads (one leg of
the last net). String 5 beads, pass back through the
center bead of the next net and continue.
R i g h t- A n g l e W e av e
( D o u bl e N e e d l e )
Start
D
A
To begin double-needle right-angle weave,

use one needle on each end of the thread to
string 3 beads to the center of the thread. *Use
one needle to string 1 bead, then pass the other
needle back through it. String 1 bead on each
needle, then repeat from * to form a chain of
right-angle units (A).
To turn at the end of the row, use the left needle to string 3 beads, then cross the right needle
back through the last bead strung (B). Use the
right needle to string 3 beads, then cross the left
needle back through the last bead strung (C). To
continue the row, use the right needle to string
2 beads; pass the left needle through the next
bead on the previous row and back through the
last bead strung (D).

page 35
string 4 beads and

C
pass through the first
3 beads again to form
D
the first unit (A). For
the rest of the row,
A
string 3 beads, pass
through the last bead
passed through in the previous unit, and the first
2 just strung; the thread path will resemble a figure eight, alternating directions with each unit.
To begin the next row, pass through beads to exit
the side bead of the last unit. String 3 beads, pass
through the last bead passed through, and the
first bead just strung (B). *String 2 beads, pass
back through the next edge bead of the previous
row, the last bead passed through in the previous
unit, and the last 2 beads just strung (C). Pass
through the next edge bead of the previous row,
string 2 beads, pass through the last bead of the
previous unit, the edge bead just passed through,
and the first bead just strung (D). Repeat from *
to complete the row, then begin a new row as
before.
techniques
F l at p e y o t e s t i t c h
One-drop peyote stitch begins by stringing an

even number of beads to create the first two rows.
Begin the third row by stringing 1 bead and passing through the second-to-last bead of the previous rows. String another bead and pass through
the fourth-to-last bead of the previous rows. Continue adding 1 bead at a time, passing over every
other bead of the previous rows.
H e rr i n g b o n e S t i t c h
Tubul a r Pe yote S titch
Begin with a foundation row of evencount ladder stitch. String 2 beads, pass
down through the second-to-last bead in
the ladder, and up through the next bead.
String 2 beads, pass down the next bead
and then up through the following. Repeat
to the end of the row. To end the row, pass
back through the last bead strung. To begin
the next row, string 2 beads and pass down
through the second-to-last bead of the
previous row and up through the following
bead. Repeat, stringing 2 beads per stitch
and passing down then up through 2 beads
of the previous row. The 2-bead stitch
will cause the beads to angle up in each
column, like a herringbone fabric.
String an even number of beads and

make a foundation circle by passing through
them two more times, exiting from the
first bead strung. String 1 bead and pass
through the third bead of the foundation
circle. String 1 bead and pass through the
fifth bead of the foundation circle. Continue
adding 1 bead at a time, skipping over 1
bead of the first round, until you have added
half the number of beads of the first round.
Exit from the first bead of the second round.
String 1 bead, pass through the second
bead added in the second round, and pull
thread tight. String 1 bead and pass through
the third bead added in the second round.
Continue around, filling in the spaces 1
bead at a time. Exit from the first bead
added in each round.
Two-drop peyote stitch is worked the same as

above, but with 2 beads at a time instead of 1.
TENSION B EAD
A tension bead (or stopper bead)

holds your work in place. To make
one, string a bead larger than those
you are working with, then pass through the bead
one or more times, making sure not to split your
thread. The bead will be able to slide along but will
still provide tension to work against when youre
beading the first two rows.
picot
F i n i s h i n g a n d S ta r t i n g
New Threads
Tie off your old thread when its about 4" long
by making a simple knot between beads. Pass
through a few beads and pull tight to hide the
knot. Weave through a few more beads and
trim the thread close to the work. Start the new
thread by tying a knot between beads and weaving through a few beads. Pull tight to hide the
knot. Weave through several beads until you
reach the place to resume beading.
To make a picot, string three (A) or five (B)

beads and weave into the next high bead. This
sequence is woven into the gaps of edge beading
to create a lacy effect and is sometimes used to
transition to decreasing stitches.
A
Pa s s T h r o u g h v s
Pa s s B a c k T h r o u g h
Pass through means to move your needle in

the same direction that the beads have been
strung. Pass back through means to move your
needle in the opposite direction.

page 36

Best of BW - Right Angle Weave

Diunggah oleh

Informasi Dokumen

Hak Cipta

Format Tersedia

Bagikan dokumen Ini

Bagikan atau Tanam Dokumen

Opsi Berbagi

Apakah menurut Anda dokumen ini bermanfaat?

Apakah konten ini tidak pantas?

Hak Cipta:

Format Tersedia

Best of BW - Right Angle Weave

Diunggah oleh

Hak Cipta:

Format Tersedia

l

puttin on the ritz

See pp. 3536 for helpful

Leslees fashion-conscious sister requested this necklace of

1) Right-angle weave. Work a

Fig. 3: Working the first fringe

4) Finishing. Pass through the

charlotte above the last pearl and

3 g gold size 13 charlottes

Size 12 beading needle

Finished size: 16"

Fig. 1: Units 1 and 2

2) Clasp. Use the tail thread to string

Fig. 2: Connecting the first half of the clasp

3) Fringe. String 1 charlotte, 1 pearl,

If adjusting the length of this

Leslee Frumin, a bead and metal artist

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com

:: s ingle- and doubleneedle right-angle

See pp. 3536 for helpful

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com

1) Center. Use 5' of conditioned

thread and two-needle right-angle

Fig. 3: Side 1, Row 2, Unit 2

String 1 size 15, 1 turquoise round, 1 size 15, 1 turquoise

String {1 size 15 and 1 turquoise

2) Side 1. With the beadwork horizon-

tal and the working threads to the right,

repeat Side 1 using the other needle.

4) Loop. Weave both needles

String 1 size 15 and pass

Finished size: 3"

Open the loop of 1 ear wire as you

3) Side 2. Flip the work over and

Fig. 2: Side 1, Row 2, Unit 1

Fig. 6: Completing the loop

Fig. 4: Side 1, Row 2, Unit 3

1 g metallic silver size 15 seed beads

through beads to exit from opposite

Check your local bead shop or contact:

For a bold look,

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com

See pp. 3536 for helpful

Use three different stitches

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com

1) Base. Place a needle at each end of

4' of thread. Use A and 6mm rounds to

Fig. 2: Adding nets

side (Fig. 2b). Repeat entire step using

4 g nickel-plated silver size 11 seed beads (A)

2 size 10 beading needles

Finished size: 8"

Repeat from the large bridge ten times

half of the clasp to each end unit. F

Smadar Grossman lives in Israel, where

More wonderful beadwork projects are available at interweavestore.com

earth and sky

See pp. 3536 for helpful

Have fun creating lacy bead caps using a variety of seed

1) Bead caps. Work each bead cap

Repeat around, using either A or B

Fig. 3: Adding picots

Note: If your 16mm beads have wide

*String 3C and pass down

If adjusting the length of this

:: s ingle- and doubleneedle right-angle

:: c ubic and flat