Anda di halaman 1dari 6

Amelia

doll tunic

Kristin Maw 2013

Amelias tunic is knit seamlessly, from the top down, in DK weight


yarn. It can button up the back to look like a pullover, or up the front
as a cardigan. The tunic can be made with long or short sleeves and
can be easily resized to fit different types and sizes of dolls.

YARN:

OTHER SUPPLIES:

DK weight yarn (less than 50 grams is needed).

-stitch markers
-darning needle
-4 small buttons

The gray tunic on the front is made from


Sandnesgarn Perfect and the blue cardigan is
made from Debbie Bliss Cashmerino DK.
The texture and drape of the 2 different yarns
make the finished garments look quite different,
even though the same basic pattern was used.

NEEDLES:
4mm needles, or whatever size you require for
the proper gauge. You may use straight needles
or a circular needle to knit the shoulders and
body. The sleeves are knit with double pointed
needles, 2 circular needles or magic loop.

SIZE:
The tunic is shown on a 35cm (14) doll. The
finished circumference at the armpit is 26cm
(10.5) when buttoned.
You can easily make smaller or larger tunics by
using different needles and/or yarn to fit dolls of
various sizes. Because the tunic is knit from the
top down, it is also simple to check sizing as you
go, and add or subtract increase rows as
required.

The body and the shoulders of the tunic are knit


back and forth and the sleeves are knit in the
round.

GAUGE:
22 stitches over 10cm (4 inches).

Kristin Maw 2013

KNITTING STARTS AT THE NECK:


* You have the choice of 2 different neck bands:
k1p1 ribbing (shown on the blue tunic), or seed
stitch (shown on the grey tunic). Choose
whichever you prefer. The k1p1 ribbing is a bit
more elastic. Row 2 is the only row that
changes.
1. Row 1: Cast on 38 stitches using long tail
cast on.
2. Row 2: Choose 1:
(k1p1 RIBBING OPTION): (k1p1) to
end, placing stitch markers after the 7th,
8th, 13th, 14th, 24th, 25th, 30th and 31st
stitches.
-OR-

9. Row 15: (PURL ROW)


10. Row 16: (INCREASE ROW) (you will now
have 94 stitches).
11. Row 17: (PURL ROW), removing all stitch
markers as you go.
*The increases for the shoulder shaping are
now complete. If you are unsure of the fit, put
all of the stitches on waste yarn and put the
tunic over your dolls shoulders. If it seems
too small, continue with a few more
INCREASE and PURL rows until you are
satisfied. Make sure you end with a PURL
row.

Figure 1 - Increases Complete

(SEED STITCH OPTION): (p1k1) to


end, placing stitch markers after the 7th,
8th, 13th, 14th, 24th, 25th, 30th and 31st
stitches.
*See Figure 2 on page 6 for diagram showing set
up of stitch markers.
3. Row 3: k1; p1; yo; p2tog; (k1p1) to end of
row (this row creates the first buttonhole).
4. Row 4: (INCREASE ROW): (p1k1)x2; k
to first marker; m1r; sm; k1; sm; m1L; k to
third marker; m1R; sm; k1; sm; m1L; k to
5th marker; m1r; sm; k1; sm; m1L; k to 7th
marker; m1r; sm; k1; sm; m1L; k until 4
stitches left on needle; (p1k1)x2 (46
stitches).
5. Row 5: (PURL ROW): (k1p1)x2; p to last
4 stitches; (k1p1)x2
6. Rows 6 to 12: Repeat the INCREASE and
PURL rows as set out for rows 4 and 5 (at
the end of row 12 you will have 78 stitches).
7. Row 13: (BUTTONHOLE ROW): k1, p1,
yo, p2tog; purl to last 4 stitches; (k1p1)x2
8. Row 14: (INCREASE ROW)
Kristin Maw 2013

JOINING THE BODY AND SEPARATING


THE SLEEVES:
12. Row 18: (p1k1)x2; (kfb; k2)x3; kfb; k1; put
the next 19 stitches on a piece of waste yarn;
k1; (kfb; k2)x8; k1; put the next 19 stitches on
a piece of waste yarn; (kfb; k2)x3; kfb; k1;
(p1k1)x2 (You will now have 72 stitches on
the needle. The stitches on waste yarn will be
used later for the sleeves).
13. Row 19: (PURL ROW): (k1p1)x2; p to last
4 stitches; (k1p1)x2
14. Row 20: (KNIT ROW): (p1k1)x2; k to last
4 stitches; (p1k1)x2
15. Row 21: (PURL ROW)
16. Row 22: (KNIT ROW)
17. Row 23: (BUTTONHOLE ROW): k1, p1,
yo, p2tog; purl to last 4 stitches; (k1p1)x2
18. Rows 24 to 32: Repeat the KNIT and
PURL rows as set out for rows 20 and 21.
19. Row 33: (BUTTONHOLE ROW): k1, p1,
yo, p2tog; purl to last 4 stitches; (k1p1)x2
20. Row 34: (KNIT ROW)
21. Row 35: (PURL ROW)
22. Row 36: (KNIT ROW)
*If you would like a longer tunic, continue
knitting a few more PURL and KNIT rows
until you are satisfied. Add buttonhole rows
as required and make sure you end with a
KNIT row.
23. Row 37:
24. Row 38:
25. Row 39:
26. Row 40:
27. Cast off.

(k1p1) to end
(p1k1) to end
(k1p1) to end
(p1k1) to end

LONG SLEEVES:

1. Round 1: Starting at the middle of the


underarm, pick up 2 stitches; k across the 19
stitches on waste yarn; pick up 2 more stitches
under the arm (you will have 23 stitches on
the needles and are back at the beginning of
the round). Join to knit in the round.
2. Rounds 2 to 10: k
*If you would like longer sleeves, add more
knit rounds here.
3. Round 11: k21; k2tog (you will now have 22
stitches on the needles).
4. Round 12: (k1p1)x11
5. Round 13: (p1k1)x11
6. Round 14: (k1p1)x11
7. Cast off
8. Repeat for second sleeve.
SHORT SLEEVES:
*Use double pointed needles, 2 circular needles
or magic loop.
1. Round 1: Starting at the middle of underarm,
pick up 2 stitches; [(p1k1)x4; p1; k2tog;
(p1k1)x4] across the 19 stitches on waste
yarn; pick up 2 more stitches under the arm
(you will have 22 stitches on the needles and
are back at the beginning of the round). Join
to knit in the round.
2. Round 2: k2tog; (p1k1)x9; p2tog (you will
have 20 stitches on the needles).
3. Cast off. If the doll has large hands, you may
want to do a sewn cast off for a more elastic
edge.
4. Repeat for second sleeve.
FINISHING UP

*Use double pointed needles, 2 circular needles


or magic loop.

Weave in all yarn ends and sew on the buttons.


You are done!

Kristin Maw 2013

Kristin Maw 2013

Figure 2 - Set up for Row 2


O = stitch

I = stitch marker
OOOOOOO I O I OOOOO I O I OOOOOOOOOO I O I OOOOO I O I OOOOOOO

TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS


K or k = knit
k2tog = decrease 1 by knitting 2 stitches together
kfb = increase by knitting into the front then into the back of the stitch
m1r = increase using make 1 to the right
m1L = increase using make 1 to the left
P or p = purl
p2tog = decrease 1 by purling 2 stitches together
sm = slip marker
NOTE: There are excellent tutorials on Knitty.com for the different increases, decreases and sewn cast
off.

You may not reproduce this pattern, in whole or in part, or distribute copies in any
format, or sell it. You may not put the pattern on a website where it can be downloaded
by others. You may sell your finished item or a doll wearing the finished item, provided
that Kristin Maw of Jaybird Finnigan is referenced in the listing as the creator of the
pattern.

Kristin Maw 2013