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THE LIBRARIES

Dr, H. Karl

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WALDENSES
PROTESTANT VALLEYS OF PIEDMONT, DAUPHINY,

THE BAN DE LA ROCHE.

WILLIAM BEATTIE,
IIIE

UMV. OF

M.D.

OF THE ROVAL COLL. OF I'HVS. LONDON OK THE HISTOB. INSTITl'TE

THE LATE DUKE OF CLARENCE
AUTHOR OF "SWITZERLAND," "SCOTLAND," "a RESIDENCE IN GERMANY," ETCEDIN.

.MEJIB.

PHYS. TO H. R. H.

ILLUSTRATED BY W.

H.

BARTLETT, ESQ.

AND W. BROCKEDON,

F.R.S.

LONDON:
GEORGE VIRTUE,

26,

IVY LANE, PATERNOSTER ROW.

.M

OCCCXXXVIU.

^31 ^V

R.

CLAY, PaiNTER. BRKAD-STREET-I

from

tnc uinrary of

HIS

MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY

FREDERICK-WILLIAM KING OF PRUSSIA

ETC. ETC. ETC.

THE AUGUST P.\TRON

AND MUNIFICENT BENEFACTOU

or

THE ANCIENT WALDENSES OF PIEDMONT

AND OF THE MORE RECENTLY DECLARED PROTESTANTS OF THE TYROL
fl^is

JBffitorfe

CONTAINING HISTORICAL AND TOPOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES

ROCHE
PROTESTANT VALLEYS OF PIEDMONT, DAUPHINY, AND THE BAN DE LA

^Mmtraten
IS

'.VlTIl

HIS MAJESTY'S GRACIOUS PERMISSION

AND WITH SENTIMENTS OF THE MOST PROFOUND RESPECT

BY THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE.

The Work

here presented to the reader,

is

the fifth of an illustrated series of volumes, which,

under the auspices of public favour, the Author has now happily brought
trations consist of seventy-two liighly finished steel-plate engravings,

on the
is

from the pencil of Mr.

Arnaud

route of Henri

The

Bartlett.

to

The

close.

illus-

from original drawings taken

Tlie scenery of the Valleys of Piedmont

spot, as stated in the Introduction.

and Dauphiny,

was successfully

across the Alps,

explored by Mr. Brockedon in person, for the express object of illustrating that portion of the

work which treats of the Expedition

and Harding have also contributed
on prosperously, from

first

its

and

it

is

only necessary to add, that the pencils of Stanfield

Thus supported,
to the undertaking.
commencement, eighteen months ago, and

translated into the French

lishments

impartiality

and German languages.* All,

many competent judges have commended its

beyond the Alps have fancied

that,

and

Work

the

has gone

will very shortly be

indeed, have admired

if

pictorial

its

embel-

any of our readers

on careful investigation, they detected a party-spirit pervading

is so very unmerited, that it may be

these sketches of the Protestant Waldenses, the imputation

and forgiven.

readily overlooked

The Author
liardy

of the present

enough to appear in

Work

is

no controversialist

so critical a position,

work

for its display, than the pages of a

intercourse with society abroad

becoming deference and respect

in matters of theology

and, had he been

he would undoubtedly have chosen some better vehicle

Wide and varied

so exclusively devoted to the Picturesque.

the personal friendship of enlightened Catholics at

may

for all wliose religious sentiments

differ

from

home

his

and a

own, have

taught him to be uniformly guarded in his language, averse to the fostering of nan-ow-minded
prejudices,

and cautious of drawing hasty or harsh conclusions.

by quoting from long accredited historians

sensitive individual

If,

therefore, he has offended

Catholic

any

he

as well as Protestant

any one. For, if his

views or statements be in strict accordance with the great standard authorities on this subject
as they certainly are
they must be true ; because the trutli of these authorities though often
impugned has never been invalidated.
can only regret that the truth should be of such a nature as to give offence

to

With
by

all

them

respect to the actual condition of the Waldenses, the Author's testimony

who,

like himself,

have visited tliem in their native Valleys.

and expressed a

in their misfortunes,

privileges of their fellow-subjects

liearty desire to see

He has

is

fully corroborated

freely sympathized with

them invested with the

all religious

he has deprecated, in their behalf,

rights

persecution,

and
all

he has dwelt with admiration on their private virtues, their fervent piety, their
exemplary lives, their patriotism, their loyalty, their patient endurance of many privations. But, if
he lias only done this, he has only done what every enlightened Catholic of the present day will
political intolerance;

thank him for having done

who would rejoice to

distinction,

and

leges of the State.

for there are,

he

see the long persecuted

is

willing to believe, thousands professing that creed,

Waldenses

finally

emancipated from the ban of religious

freely admitted, with themselves, to a full participation in all the rights

The

and

extinction of ancient prejudices, the abolition of oppressive edicts,

The French

translation,

by M.

Du

Biiuclas, will be

completed

in

a few days.

privi-

and the

PREFACE.
unbiassed recognition of those rights which all Roman Catholic subjects enjoy under Protestant Governments, is all to which the Waldenses so ardently aspire and an edict to this effect would be hailed
;

Of

as a voice from heaven.

been recent omens

better times there have

looking to their King with unshaken loyalty and confidence, continue

tlieir

.... Precibus si flecteris uUis

Aspice nos hoc tantum ; et, si pietate meremur,
Da deinde aiudlium, Pater, atque hajc omina firma

and the people,

'

earnest prayer

still

^
!

His Sardinian Majesty, Charles Albert as we have repeatedly shown in the work before us
and there can be little doubt that, if their
is very favourably disposed to his Waldensian subjects
emancipation coidd be accomplished by a mere Jiat of the Crown, the line of invidious demar;

which has so long and painfully divided his subjects of the Valleys from those of the Plain,
would be speedily thrown down. His encouiagoment of literature and science his patronage of
the fine arts his promotion of every measure tending to advance the national gloryhis personal
cation,

and many

notice of meritorious individuals,

Waldenses themselves,

who

combine

all

to

particular instances of favour evinced towards the

show that he

at heart a wise

is

and enlightened Sovereign,

His ministers,

desirous that all his faithful subjects should enjoy equal privileges.

is

known

are well

to

be

men

of liberal minds

tempering justice

But, unhappily,

pating in the generous views of their royal Master.

or greatly modified

intentions has been hitherto counteracted

with mercy

too,

and warmly partici-

all

this flow of kindly

in its effects

by a strong under-

cun'ent of bigoted church policy, studious misrepresentation, and popular prejudice.

For

this

however, the inferior clergy must not be exclusively blamed they me but the subordinate instruments of a System, and no more answerable for what they do, than the soldier, who, in strict
:

obedience to his general's order,

is

called to perform

some painful and revolting

service.

It is the

Hierarchy which has so often defeated the kindly intentions of former Sovereigns which has had
and that has so often placed a sword in the
its emissaries in the council, the closet, the confessional

royal hand,

which,

if

left to itself,

would have extended towards the unfortunate Waldenses a

" sceptre of mercy."

Waldenses, but that hope is fixed on a strong basis

on the inflexible justice of their enlightened Sovereign. To him, under Pro\adence, they look
removal of all their hereditary burdens for the final abolition of all political distinctions

There
it rests

for the

is,

in fact,

only one hope

left for the

and from him they implore an act of emancipation. In this they are joined by the prayers of all
good men, among whom there is but one wish namely, that the future line of conduct towards
the Waldenses may illustrate the force and spirit of this ancient maxim

Tros Tyrhisqite mihi millo discrimine agetur !

WILLIAM BEATTIE.
2,

Tenterden Street, H.^nover Square,

December, 1837.

'

A very recent and most pleasing trait of

densian

officer,

who

royal beneficence was evinced by the king in behalf of a

died in garrison at Aoste.

In

this case, his majesty, with

kindred, but settled a pension upon his disconsolate widow.

2.3

ViRG. Mneid,l.iLU.

Wal-

a magnanimous disregard of

ancient precedent, not only granted to the deceased soldier the privilege of a grave

among

his Protestant

We have this anecdote from the best authority.

'

'

TABLE OF CONTENTS.
THE

............

WALDENSES.-Introcluctory

Present State

SITUATION. i;\ri;N
secluili''!

\\:m;mi \ii\i;ii<

r.

,!:o

\-

:-/,.,

,-

...,.,;

m,,:

.'

I;

I',

^,

'

'

'

Elegano

Paget

Sketcli...Profes8ors of Primitivi- Cliristiaiiity...Persecutions...

:-

'

fi

ii.se
,.

liDii...

I'^nce

'

VALLEYS OF LUZERN AND FELICE. Approach...Vniage of St.

John...ValIey of Luzem...
La Tour...The beautiful Octavia ..New Collece...Publie Hospita!...Church...Protestant Service...
Traits uf \'aiuloi>fliaiactcr,..lhr..ii- .\iti(.ii... Mount Van'kliii... Convent of Villar... Tradition...
I'h-I.i
1,'nc
Diabolici! S:;,;i j^, ',1 i',,i
u. .i
i-i
i;:,>l
Sc
r,,ii
r nety... Histotical Recollcctions...
",:
I.
.,:
LaSanc'
i-|iiracy defeated, &c.
7
I.

VALLEYS

iH

orilinaM
I'l-'.'
l''i

'r

1,1

"
I,

>

.....

Pomarn
Maneili.'

>)

Churdi. \
bath ill tl.

.,

..'..

theCoTP,

.1

Encounter

EXlIJ-.s
1:1 ~ M

-Sifi.iHl

ALvi.i,.iits..

St.Foi...l;.-lat
at

I'.iI,.:

..:

'

their Nativ,. liill-.

in desceudiny tinRencontri. wiib tl...

>.

1'

.ili...

Sab-

from

67-

l.ii

n ..unt '^.i^lli^l-...KIlte^-

in

n ni

t.il,,

Hi-t

1.11

-i_iit

lli.ir .M.irrli..,'J'nih^iu

..l

W,n>liii.
h

i.ii

I',_.,:,v,.,;llt,. !;..>to.

-.

K. l._..|.- Snli...

.Nn.tli

...

.... I..

I'lilili..

|'.hi,

.ii

.,

i',-,^, hi...

I'.iKdl..
i..;ii

1,

.:

,:

:,lil

at

.mil

'

r.i

.ulii ol

,..

Force, and cnmnienciment of the March...Firet

'.!.In.. u. li s ill. n. ii,-..A-rciit uf Haute laice...
Ill,
.ri.u.Miil,. i;r...|.tinat
l;,

nil

....

..:

i.

.inuv.iiiia

liilientance...Failure of the PJnterprise...

to return...

tlic'ir

.......

'

,,.,_

11

'
1

..f

'
:

,.:'...

Sai.ii..

.-..d...

..

li,tcat,and Iln|.lisu^nlfnt...Cross-

.,.,

\ :J|,

-..,.(

l,l,,m-L-...Cahin, Kiiifi.laiiiesl...
i-.,.ta.'tors...C'(ilmiel Hci-knith...

II

..

'

iouof BRANDENBiiRG...Another Eft'ort

appointed Commander.. .Account of

li..

uam

.s...

>

:,.r^ i...ii.|.;!ir.l.

...

44

'

.1

ration. ..llar.!-lii|.-

tainment

!,'...:..

,.,,,:

!...i;,

11

..|

la

v:n--,. of

():-M-

'

..

...

|.

I,

III

I:

ir.,

...

(.

Comte de
(Jommuneof Pramol

......

T
.i

of

rations of

',

(,

..

i
.

w
\:

i'

r
1'

'.

IN '.!..
KinK\\'i.
Count.lr W .ii.;!...ii!^. I'm:,
ingthe Aiiis...Arri\al mini
Patronized by Willum ill
Embarkation of the Exil.

RETURN OF THE

,,.

.,

'

<

,,..

...

..

,:

h.,.I'ra-deI-tor... Synod

liiiii

<

I,.

>

I'.

r ....
I

.'i

<

...

-:<-

i!

\i^ii^

-I

iitv, interesting Anecdote.. .ExtraMiliiitsiif .Tanavel.and Pianessa...

'i

,,

I'l

Peruu.r.

'

1'

i'

'

1'

Two

.
,

'

VALLK\

Chuiili

tli..

lii.n.i,..

,*

nf

of

tions

(liii.jou...

and

ti.uk

'.ii.lure

Enemy...

amp...SKir-

VALLEYS OF DAUPHINY. Description...aueyras...Freissinieres...Mont

Genevre...Cesanne...
Brian(,-on... Roman Antic|nities...St. Ambrose... Historical Memoranda. ..The River Durance...State
of theInhahitalits...l)i.Th.iu\s .V.-miint nf flic Inhabitants Hinniihars Kn.-id, Val I,oui.se...FKLIX
,.!''.
:..1.-, in. 111.
i-.'
NEFF...Ui'\"ltin^ ^i.;--.i."
I..I I'... Ii.
n
M
.SirralarWatcr.

Pallon...Cli.iii..

1..I.

St.Veran...Moliin Vars...LaGrave...l'

not

L.\
Labour.. ..:

...Anec.;..

subject

.i

Lammc.rul

1.
\

-11

ill

.
I

.! IT.

-h

ili
:.

\ .d

-.

l-n..,.,

.'

...
I..

'.

i.f

d'l,. ...... \

.il

i.

..i

..

.M

r.

Ehrmann..

Pastor.... Valley

of
\ccount...Champsaur...

,,,,

171200

Sk.tcb of the Life and

-Annals of the Ban
1

1..

1-

:1

il.

...
1;

l.m.:,

\ ..ll.-y

i.

Avalanches...
of theGuil

i'

'

in.,

ii
.

.i

.'

''1

'I

II

i:
I

.1

....

'

1.

\:.

-.

..

i'

'.

:i

|.

ii

.,.

^11.

...Gran(li.ur..tii-~-.
La Chalp. ..Biu.ii.l

BAN DE

fall...PriiniiiM.Si.|.,

I'.

..l.i.ll..n

'i.l

Krviewoftho

.'

'hamois and

n.. d' .nillr...

Appendix

Dncunicnts... Loyalty and I'uty of the W aldi.iisi.s...Uniiiiial Anecdote of the King...

200 21G
Their Co.\FES.sioN OF Faith, as published with the Manifesto, A.D. ll)5o .
.
.
...Historical

N.B. The above Volume will be found to contain

Sketches of History, Statistics, Society and Manners ;
Education, Literature, and Science ; Mineralojiy, Botany, Geology ; Bioyraphical and Characteristic Notices;
Anecdotes and Traditions; Popular,Customs and Amusements : Arts, Agricutture,Produce, and Manufactures ;
vnth much diversified matter ; the results of personal intercourse with the country and people of the Valleys.

%* The

Poetry interspersed in this Volume, unless where otherwise marked,

is

original.

DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.

LIST OF PLATES.

ARTISTS.

BTT.-Bartletl.

BR.-Brockedon.

%.-Stanfield.

H.-Harding.

ToSacePage

Portrait

Map

.Btt.

Col d'Haute Luce

The Col de Bon Homme

of the Valleys

SusA
Turin, and the Plains of Piedjiont
St. Ambrogio, near Susa
Turin, from the Vigne de la Reine
Bridge of the Po

Btt
Btt
Btt
Btt
Btt
Btt
Btt
BtT
Btt
Btt
Btt

The River Dora

Pignerol, from the East
Pl(!NEROL, BY MuONLIGHT
St. John, and Luzern

La Tour, Val-Pelice
La Tour, and Luzern
The Protestant Church, Bobi,Val-Pelice,Btt
.

10

20

22

33
38
44

48

57

59

Br

65

Btt
Btt
Btt

70

73

Ba

78

the Col de Guignevert

and the Col du Pis
Br
.

81

84

67

St.

Martin

Btt

Post of the Vaudois in the Serre-le-Cruel, Btt. 89

Viso, from the Col de Julien
Br
98
Scene in the Val Isere, near Tignes
Br 113
The Lake of Gene\'a and Mont Blanc, from
the Forest of Nyon
Br . 120
Castle of Ivoire
H 123

Monte

Bb

Boege

FiLLi

Thk Lake of Geneva, prom Col

AND THE Mont Mole

The Valley

of Maglan, from Comblou

Gure, Val de Tignes

Br
Bonneval, Valley of the Arc
Br
The Col of the Little Mont Cenis
Br
Head of the Valley of Jaillon
Br
Fort of Exille, Valley of the Dora
Br
Salaeertrann
Br
The Valley of Pragelas, opposite the Col du
Pis, Morning after the Battle
Br
La Traverse, Val Pbagelas
Br
L.4C NOIR, ON THE CoL DE ClAIREE
Br
The Bal.sille during the Attack
Btt
Cesanne, on Mont Genevre
Btt
Approach to BR1AN90N, from Mont Genevre,Btt.
Approach to BRIAN90N, fro.m Mont Dauphin, Btt
Val Queyras, from the Entrance of the Valley
OF Arvieux
Btt
Lake La Roche, Valley of the Durance, Btt
The Approach to Dormilhouse
Btt
Church and School op Felix Neff, DorjiilHousE
Btt.
Mont Dauphin, Champcellas, Val Durance, Btt
Scene in the Pass of the Guil, between Mont
Dauphin and Queyras
Btt
Bridge over the Guil, near Mt. Dauphin, Btt
La Chalpe, and Brunichard
Btt
Chateau Q,ueyraz, Valley of the Guil Btt
.

....

126

....

Veran
Pallons, Val

Btt
Btt

St.

Freissiniere

Mountains of the Ban de la Roche, from the

Cathedral of Strasbourg
Br
ScHiRMECK, Ban de la Roche
Br
FouDAi, Ban de la Roche
Br
.

Br
Br
Br
Br

des Voirons,

Viti,

Cluse, Savoy

Br

....

I'he Balsille, with

Val

Br
Br
Br

Br

Val Isere

Btt

....

Val Angrogna
Pra del Tor, Valley of Angrogne
The Barricade of Pra del Tor
St. Germain, Val Clusone
The Fort of Fenestrelle
Pomaret, Val St. Marti.n
Maneillb, in the Val Germanasca

Sey, or Scez,

Ruins of Fort Mirabouc, V.vl-Pelice

Br
Bobi and Val Pelice
Btt
The Col de la Croix, during a Tourmente,
or Snow-Storm
Btt

Prali,

To face

Migeves, Savoy

Vignette ViLi.AR, Val-Pelice

127
128

129

130

132

St. Joire,

Val

Isere

Br
Br
Br

Pont de la Cret
St. Foi, in the Val Isere
.
op the Vaudois, from the Col
.

The Mountains

de Touilles

Br

THE WALDENSES
VAUDOIS OF PIEDMONT.

" Amatores
singulari

maxime

pacis et tranquillitatis

opens laboribusque maxime

morum

suavitate confirmationeque

dediti."

Camerarius, de

excidio reliq. Valdensium.

" Tributa principi, et sua jura dominis sedulo et summa fide pendebant Dei cultum
morum imiocentia proseferebant."THUANi,Hts<. lib. vi.
:

assiduis precibus, et

INTRODUCTORY SKETCH.
In the great
in its history,

political divisions of Italy,

more prominent than the

every district presents some epoch

which the natives refer to with

rest,

Every section,
exultation, and strangers peruse with interest or advantage.
every community some emphatic
however limited in extent, has its amials
developed,
pagein which the strife of faction or struggles for independence have

But of all
human mind.
passions and
hcen called into action,
nations or provinces, where the noblest virtues have
endured the
and where love of coimtry and zeal for reHgion have alternately
results, these Valleys of
most grievous calamities, or led to the most glorious
forth in
Piedmont a spot scarcely noticed in the maps of Europe stand
From the magnanimous traits, heroic sacrifices, and
brilUant distinction.
it has aU the character of
startling incidents which their history presents,
drama, but of a drama
an ancient epic, aU the materials and variety of a tragic

in their course, the

stamped with the

energies of the

seal of truth.
at

the

As a distinct people, the Waldcnscs became first knowni in history

bishop of
commencement of the ninth century, during the life of Claudius,
primitive
Turin the WicklifTe of his day, and the strenuous advocate of
By tradition, however, carefully handed down through a long
Christianity.

THE WALDENSES.

X
of

line

they trace their

ancestors,

and, in

tlie

apostles.*

the

diocese of Turin,

Down

had maintained

Christianity
this

much

to this time,

revelation,

of the original spirit of

being gradually undermined, innovations crept

in.

men;

Rival altars were

and the primitive worship of the Trinity was

to which oblations were to be offered,

by the introduction of images,

and days 'appointed

to

be kept holy.'

Thus, what enriched the church in

a temporal view, overthrew its gospel purity

;

dawn of

sanctifying influence over the minds of

its

established mider papal sanction,

polluted

ages

first

and offered few distinctive features in religious diswhich coidd excite the jealousy of their neighbours, or the suspicion

of the universal church.

but

the

to

Till this period, however, they had been comprised within

the

cipline

origin

present day, profess the same doctrines which they imbihed from

dispersed the flock in pilgrim-

it

established fines and penance as peace-offerings for sin

altar raised

by the

apostles

Intercessor between

and substituted

'

many

divinities

'

threw down the

for the

one sole

God and man.

Dm-ing the general

Waldenses stood

tide of corruption, however, the

aloof.

Strengthened by the example of their excellent prelate, under whose spiritual

jurisdiction they

carried

who

had enjoyed the blessings of a somid

away by the

force of example, nor ensnared

new and imposing

advocated the

faith,

they were neither

by the seductions of those

They regarded image worship, or

saints, as not only diverting the mind

ritual.

the offerings presented to the relics of

from the sacred channel of devotion, but- as an insult offered to their reason,
degrading to the dignity of christian worship, and in direct opposition to
first principles.

of Scripture

Their rules of

and

by

this

life

its

and doctrine were drawn from the authority

infallible

standard

their

religious

opinions were

framed and exemplified in practice.

Though

sufficiently distinguished

by

their lives

suspected of disaffection towards the chm-ch

glaringly profaned by recent abuses
grity and moral worth for

and conversation

the

pmity

to

.of wliich

be already

had been so

their own peaceable character, and

which they were proverbially distinguished,

tliat inte-

still

screened

them from persecution, and even endeared them to those with whom they had
social intercourse.
Thus practically inculcating peace and good-will, and too
obscure to be made the objects of political resentment, they became the faithful
depositaries of that

the

soil,

and

call

sacred truth, which was one day to strike deep root into

the nations to partake of

its

fruit.

In the mean time,

sanctioned by the innovations of a former Council,f the universal church conSt.

t

Paul and

St.

James are supposed

to

Iconolatria, or the worship of images,

at Nice, a.d. 792.

have been the first messengers of glad tidings in these Valleys,

was first recognised in a council convened by Pope Adrian

INTRODUCTORY SKETCH.
away from

tinned to

fall

referri.

Pomp, and ceremony, and

added to the calendar;

festivals,

early worsliip

and churches, and communities were called by

cities,

and formally dedicated

their names,

In pejus mere ac retro suhlapsa

were multiplied new saints were

evangelical simplicity

its

to

The simpUcity

protection.

their

had degenerated into gorgeous ceremonial; and,

of

in proportion

as corruption invaded the sacred province of the sanctuary, the distinctive features

As

more conspicuous.

of the Waldensian creed became

lamp gathers bright-

ness amidst surromiding darkness, the lustre of their example

and more seen and

and the

them from the

strict

first

though evident to

this,

was not yet suffered

in contact,

rectitude,

But

felt.

all

with

preachers of Christianity, proved their safeguard

trials,

a knowledge of the Scriptures, and extended their colonies

was changed

and the adjoining countries.

and towards the

had long been gathering over

of persecutions.
singled

them out
Their

WTath.

barred from

and thus,

But, at

last,

up

ramifi-

the aspect of affairs

close of the fifteenth century, the

this

youth in

their

by numerous

storm that

devoted people, burst upon them in a series

now

Prejudice and superstition, and the grossest calumnies,

as

reprobate schismatics, against

vented their abhorrence,

its

moral

the Valleys were long the scene of comparative

Their barhes, or theological teachers, trained

cations in Italy

they came

to destroy their peace; the influence of

observance of those precepts which had descended to

though not exempted from

tranquillity.

became more

whom

lives

social

Rome

fuhninated

whom

their fellow-subjects

anathemas, and heaven manifested

its

and property were at the mercy of

uitercourse,

expelled

fi-om

the

De-

inquisitors.

sanctuary,

denounced by

the priesthood, beset with spies, and burdened with imposts, they had no resources but in the purity of their consciences, no refuge but at the altar of

God.
But the

their

fortitude.
state,

fierceness of persecution

seemed only

to increase the measiu'e of tlieir

Althougli open violence and secret treachery, the soldiers of the

and the hired

eradicate their very

assassin, united

name from

to exterminate the proscribed race,

the Valleys

and

although marked as the victims

of indiscriminate massacre, of lawless plunder, of torture, extortion, and famine

their resolution to persevere in the truth i-emained unshaken.

ment

that cruelty could invent, or the sword

in vain

nothing could subvert their

of their natural rights as

of the primitive church
their

homes

desolate,

men

in

faith, or

inflict,

had expended

subdue their courage.

its

members

resistance to those exterminating edicts which

altars with blood, the

fury

In defence

in support of their insulted creed as

and deluged even their

Every punish-

made

Waklenses

exhibited a spectacle of fortitude and endurance that has no parallel in history.

THE WALDENSES.

their enemies

sympathy of Christendom, and betrayed even

attracted the

It

into expressions of admiration.*

by a

them as the
They perished in dungeons, by famine, and
on vehich we shudder to reflect.f When, at last,

preferred exile and confiscation to the favours tendered

They

conditional rewards of perfidy.

series of refined cruelties,

driven from their homes, and exposed to the horrors of an Alpine desert, where

many

expired, and

many sorrowed

over their expiring friends, the remnant were

supported by the consoling thought, that they were exiles and martyi-s,

still

but not apostates

.'

They

felt

also for nothing

under such accumulated misery they

could have upheld them

less

although

felt that,

many had

still

that the time of restoration would yet arrive

They were

forsaken

Of

'

sealed their

leading them onward, and

testimony with their blood, an invisible hand was

persecuted, but not

down, but not destroyed.'

cast

this expatriated

remnant, those

who succeeded

were joyfully received by the Protestant

in effecting their

escape

Germany, and

states of Switzerland,

Holland, where the facts of their oppression and wTongs had long preceded

them, and awakened that fraternal charity which had no place in the hearts
of their countrymen.

Here they were received with open arms, respected

as men, adopted as citizens, honoured as martyrs, imitated as Christians, and,

where the expression of public favour was withheld, cheered and consoled

by

private sympathy.

But the

and sympathy of strangers could not appease the yearnings

hospitality

Nothing could

home.

after

stifle

in the Waldensian exile the

of those Valleys with which were associated

endearing at the paternal hearth.

Neckar, or the
ear

that

is

remembrance

holy in the sanctuary, or

In his dreams by the Aar, the Rhine, the

the waters of his native Pelice or Clusone resounded in his

the living and the dead rose

By day, his
met

Elbe,:):

all

up before him, and

thoughts were absorbed by the past

called

upon him

together, prayers were breathed, and tears mingled, for their native land.

Like the disconsolate Hebrews by the

rivers of Babel, they

wept when they

thought of their native Zion, and invoked heaven for her peace.
true,

is

forms
*

to return.

and wherever two or three were

they had suffered ignominy and persecution in

and here they were at peace

provided

its

most

There,

it

appalling

with the means of industry,

For numerous testimonies to

Baronius, ad Ann.

xii. 127,

this effect, see Reynerus contra Valdenses.

Thuani Historia, lib. xxvii.
Camerarius, and numerous others, which will be quoted in the course of these

pages.
t

" Being destitute, afflicted, tormented

they wandered in deserts and in mountains, and in dens and

of cruel mockings and scourgings yea, moreover, of bonds and imprisonsawn asunder, were tempted, were slain with the sword'." Heb. chap. xi.
Rivera, oa the banks of which they received the rites of hospitality, and established colonies.

caves of the earth

ment.
X

They were

They had trial

stoned, they were

INTRODUCTORY SKETCH.
and enjoying the protection of fraternal governments.
which had v\-itnessed their sufferings, had w-itnessed also

those

Still,

scenes

their happiest hours.

and there, if still one

In these Valleys rested the bones of their ancestors
They
voice survived near their graves, it seemed to implore them to return.
;

reasoned and

felt as exiles

had

suffered as they

that

of

influence

only reason and feel; but as men,

invisible

Power,

on the paternal threshold, they resolved on the

establish their feet at length

fearful

chance of a return to their native

was conducted

who have not

Under the guiding

which was leading them forward, to

can but feebly comprehend.

suffered,

by what miraculous

efforts

soil.

How

this perilous enterprise

a band of eight hundred exiles

pro%'ided with every thing that could hold out

scaled the Alps, conquered at Salabertrand,

ill

any rational prospect of success-

and

finally

achieved the " glorious

recovery" of their valleys, will form the subject of the foUowing pages.
The warm interest which England has so often evinced in behalf of her

" elder brethren," the Waldenses, is gratefully remembered by their descendants

Her generous sympathy, expressed by active benevolence,
of the present day.
has been attended with results on which every Briton may reflect with honest
pride.

Of

the most imequivocal test of practical respirit

had ocular demonstration, and heard the aspirations

this brothei-ly

ligionwe have

lately

and the prayers of a long persecuted church, breathed

England. By the boimty of the state, and the collecbut much stUl depends
tive liberality of individuals, much has been effected
exercise of christian benefor its success on the prospective and continued
For a time, and so long as the French retained possession of the
volence.
abolished, and the Waldenses
countrs', all exclusive religious distinctions were
of gi-ateful hearts,

for the prosperity of

freely admitted to every right

But, with the

Piedmont.

in their favour

was annulled,

and

disqualified

enjoyed by their fellow-subjects of

pri\'ilege

new order of things arose the recent law

and many of the old laws were again put in force.
Peace, a

subjected to severe restrictions

They were
politically

last

charged with exclusive taxations

from holding any command in the army; shut out

civil departments, by which integrity and worth

from every avenue in the

and exposed to numerous petty vexations,

mistaken policy of the government, they were still
to crime, but the penalty
a marked race, suffering not the punishment awarded

might hope

to arrive at distinction

which showed

that, in the

attached to their creed.

Under

dynasty
these circumstances, the events which restored the ancient
and filled Piedmont with loyalty and rejoicing, proved to the

to the throne,

Waldenses the signal of renewed sorrow and degradation.

But

that religion

THE WALDENSES.
had animated and supported

wliicli

was agaki

tliem,

and support.

their solace

under former

They had hoped,

and humiliations,

trials

indeed, that the recorded

proofs of intrepid resistance with which they had opposed the

enemy

at the first

opening of the campaign, and the remembrance of that hereditary loyalty to

which even their princes had borne grateful testimony, would now have been
allowed

plead in

to

favour.

their

God and

their tasks, fearing

to the state
situation the

them

in the

day of

Waldenses remain
It

to the present day,

earnestly hoped,

is

political reckoning,

honouring the king, they devoted those energies

which had rendered them so formidable to

autumn.

last

But

Nevertheless, setting themselves peaceably to

these merits were overlooked.

and

its

In

enemies.

in this condition

however,

that,

before

this

we found

long,

the

Sardinian government, by adopting a more generous and enlightened policy,

remove

will

odious distinctions,

all

to this industrious portion of its

With

may be

justice to itself in doing justice

They embrace

engravings

a rich and striking diversity of subjects

speak for

such

as

expected on the confines of two countries so different in physical

character
leuse,

and do

faithfid subjects.

respect to the scenery of these Valleys, the

themselves.

and

range between the awful solitudes of Fressiniere, or Dormeil-

and the summer valleys of Luzern* and the Po.

auspicious

less

most

the

to

painter

or beautiful than

turesque,

it

But, had nature been

had the scenery been

sublime, or picthe actions alone, of which, for so many
less

is

it has been the theatre, would stamp its bleakest rocks with an
which no mere landscape, however beautiful, could inspire.
The

centuries,
interest

scenery, indeed,
tion

but

it

is

is

well calculated to fascinate the eye and enchant the imagina-

only

when surrounded by

associations that

it

has power to reach

the heart, addressing us, like an intelligent spirit, through the allurements of

The connexion between

beautiful exterior.

records

is

here so peculiarly striking, that

natural

would be

it

scenes and

liistorical

difficult to fix

on any

point of Waldensian landscape which, in the almost incredible series of thirtythree wars, has not been

sepulchre of

its

champions.

the

vantage groimd of religious freedom, or the

" Monemur,

nescio quo pacto, locis ipsis qviibus

eormn quos diligimus aut admiramur, adsunt

vestigia. "f

In the topographical descriptions incorporated with this worlv, the English or French orthography has
been generally substituted for tlie Italian. Something like uniformity seemed desirable in this respect, as
several English writers appear to have adhered to no particular mode of spelling, but to have used both modes
indifferently. If however, it be allowable in English to drop the final vowels in Milano, Turino, and numerous

same rule will sanction the spelling here adopted, and may prevent confusion. The natives
it may be added, change the terminations of their proper names according to the language in
which they write or converse for example, Peyran or Peyrani Pellagrin or Pellegrini.
others, the

themselves,

Cicero de Legibus.

...

\p

SITUATION AND BOUNDARIES.

SITUATION, EXTENT,

AND BOUNDARIES.

" Angustse Valles ubi cunctis exul ab oris

Relij,no stabilem linxerat

The

usque larem." Verenfelsius,

and the theatre of events on which the reader

still

pauses with mingled sj-mpathy

and admiration, are situated on the French and Italian

to a certain extent, the character

great barrier between

wooded

hills,

Their situation has been

who

describes

more savage

to west,

aspect, are softened

which jield a rich territory

defined

them

with

as situated

greater

still

and nearly the same

Perouse,

or St. Martin,

at

Luzern, of which Angrogne

for the plough.

by a native

precision

about twelve Itahan miles

is

Taking the to^vn of Pignerol

a point of survey, the spectator observes fom-

namely: that

diflferent

valleys diverging

of Pragela, or Clusone, towards the

its
is

into

fertile

in the direction opposite, thus occu-

pying a square of twenty-four French leagues.f

before him,

down

on the western confines of Piedmont,

of Brianon and the Italian prodnces

and included between the French frontier

Their extent
of Pignerol, Susa, and Saluzzo.
from east

to that

geography as the Cottian range, or

green pastures, vine-covered slopes, and those

tracts stretching along the rivers,

historian,

and combine,

They belong

Piedmont and Daupliiny, and occupy the space where

these moimtains, lajang aside their

picturesquely

frontiers,

and peculiarities of each.

division of the Alps,* described in ancient

as

lfi95.

Valleys, so long consecrated as the retreat of this primitive community,

further extremity

only a branch

north, with

on the west, the valley of

and on the south, that of Rora,

the least considerable, but most elevated of the four which, collectively, form

the Vallees Vaudoises, or Protestant Valleys of Piedmont.

Till after the conclusion of the late war,

interesting retreats;

for

they had

little

that could allure the fasliionable tourist.

At

few

travellers

to gratify idle

had penetrated these

curiosity,

and nothing

Their glory was in their history.

various intervals, however, an occasional pilgrim left the beaten tract to

\'isit

This range extends between Monte Viso anil Mont Cenis, iilong the Mont Genc\TC, and is so cilled
from kingCottius, who had his residence at Susa, and was distinguislied as the friend of Cajsar and Augustus.

Amm.

Marcellinus has given a minute sketch of the Cottian Alps in his Rer. Gest.ar.

lib.

xv.

c.

10

and

Silius

them in all their real as well as poetical horrors, lib. iii. v. 479. But as the first of these
them with the Roman army, his debcription is graphic and exact.
I'occident du Pi^mont cntrc Brian9onnais et la province dc Pignerol, entre le Marquisat de Susc et

Italicus has painted

authorities passed
t

"

Lc\ir (Jtendue est d'environ

celui de Saluccs, se trouvent ces Valines que les Vaudois ont rendues si cetebres.
douze milles d'ltalic d'orient en Occident, et autant (hi sud au nord ce qui fait a peu pros un quarrtf de vingt" Pepuis Aosle jusqn'ik la
quatre lieues franfaises." Brez. Their position is thus briefly stated by JIu.ston
mer, du cot^ du Pidmont il y a douze vallees, dont celles dcs Vaudois occupent prccisi!mcnt le centre."
:

Liv.

i.

p. 70.

THE WALDENSES.

those scenes of the Waldenses on which history had stamped their achieve-

ments; and thus the people, who on every occasion

justified the hereditary

which they laid claim, became the objects of enlightened charity, and
a new study for the active philanthropist. During the last twenty years these
valleys have become better known: the reports furnished by several of our
virtues to

met with a reception which, independently

distinguished countrymen* have

their other merits,

shows how deeply the peojjle of England

listen to every appeal

and with what avidity they

in the research,

of

feel interested

on behalf

of the Waldenses.

Animated by a kindred

spirit,

and already familiar with the Alpine scenery

which they are embedded, the writer had last year the pleasui-e of carrying
While there, it was his
into eifect a long projected \-isit to the Waldenses.
in

and people

object to collect such information respecting the jjlace

events,

as should

originality,

and bring down the chain of

on which they are foimded, to the present day.

But an essay of this nature,

entitle his observations to

some claim of

on which the highest attaimnents of the

must be expected

fine arts

have been so liberally employed,

to differ materially, in its features

and treatment, from the

many learned and popular works in which the subject has hitherto appeared.
The nimierous scenes for which this christian " Sparta " has been rendered so
remarkable, are here presented, for the

first

time, in a collective shape, and

naturally direct attention to the physical and statistical, as well as to the moral,

condition of the country

circumstances

which must necessarily influence the

and demand a larger share of picturesque description than

would be necessary in a work embracing the more general topics of history.
But although limited in this respect, as well as by the circumscribed nature

literary matter,

of the text, notliing,

it is

hoped, of paramount interest has been omitted.

theological discussion, indeed, has

been intentionally avoided

Much

but no important

has been suppressed or disguised which could illustrate the character of the

fact

people, or aSbrd a faithful picture of their country in

its

past and present con-

In allusion to the past, however, the author has endeavoured to observe a

dition.

middle course

away by the

Among

neither yielding to the strength of early predilections, nor led

force of prejudice.

these, the

Rev. Dr. GiUy

is

The best

wTiters, ancient

entitled to special honour,

and modern

tlis familiar

Catholic

acquaintance

mth

their

wants, unwearied solicitude for their relief, his able and learned vindication of their cause, and his personal

forwarding every object connected with their happiness, have associated him in a peculiar manner
In the same career of active benevothat is most dear to the hearts and hopes of the Waldenses.

efforts in

with

all

lence,

who,

pass in silence another faithful representative of British philanthrophy, Colonel B

campaign which reestablished the tranquillity of Europe, found a new
generous exertion in the Protestant Valleys of Piedmont, where he is emphatically regarded as a

we cannot

after sharing in the last glorious

field of

friend

and a brother.

SCENERY OF PIEDMONT.

Protestant have been consulted; and, without implicitly adopting

the opinions of either, he has endeavoured to reconcile their discordant endence.
Wliere that has failed, as it too often has, the wi-iter has confined his obseras well as

vations to such statements as are grounded on the immutable nature of facts,

which no human testimony can invalidate, and to those ancient

documents of which the authenticity has never been questioned.

liistorical

As a proper accompaniment to the subject thus briefly introduced, we shall

now indulge in a few discui-sive observations on the countries by which the Valleys
immediately surrounded

are

but

more

particularly Piedmont,

they are physically as well as politically connected.

By

form a more clear and correct notion of each

will

and be enabled

bearings,

to

locality,

and

follow the writer through the

of his subject without confusion or obscurity.*

to take the Protestant valleys in detail

which

with

these means, the reader

we

This done,

respective

its

different
shall

stages

proceed

but, passing over their less important

on those which have either some striking place in history,

which the beauty of their natural scenery has given peculiar attractions.

features, fix only

or to

The sketch of Savoy will be incorporated with those scenes representing the
wild and perilous track by which the Waldenses returned from exile under
the intrepid Arnaud, and were reinstated in their native valleys.
The %dews
Dauphiny and of the Ban-de-la-Roche, in Alsace localities with wliich the
recent labours of Felix Neff and the Pastor Oberlin are so closely associated
in

vsdU

complete the work, and furnish the

respecting

men who,

wi-iter

with some interesting materials

in the highest acceptation of that term,

were the bene-

factors of their species.

In

its

natural featm-es and productions, the territory of Piedmont

the most varied within the vast curtain of the Alps

lofty

is

one of

and viewed from those

summits that flank the plain of Turin and the Po, never fails to awaken

mind a degree of surprise and

when seen from any other point of the

in the spectator's

pleasure which

felt

Italian frontier.

variegated

by innumerable towns,

the nobility, extends at his feet.

in all their wild

sublimity,

villages,

and the

is

summer

scarcely to be

vast

plain,

residences

Behind, and above, the Alps soaring

exhibit their glacier summits, their

scathed

of

aloft

and

shapeless masses of granite-here mantled with dark forests, and there rent
into profound chasms, through
to the valley.

group of Alps, relieve

tlie

uniformity of

* This, however, will be rendered e.isy

accompaniment

which the cataract pursues

its

thundering course

Isolated summits, stationed like outposts in advance of the colossal

to this work,

by a

tlie

plain; and, crested here and tjicre

filance at the

newly constructed Map, which forms a valuable

and exhibits every feature of the Valleys

in its relative position.

lU

WALDENSES.

TilE

with the monuments of religious or feudal domination, serve as landmarks in

liistory,

which meet the eye

every direction, and revive the records of their

Over the wide space which intervenes between the

owii particular epochs.*

Apennines, and the more advanced bulwarks of the Alps, numerous rivers pour

and

their copious waters, which, after contributmg to the beauty

fertility of

the

landscape, carry their tribute into the Po.

The etymology

of Piechnont

is

self-evident,

and describes the natm'al position

of the country as extending along the base of the mountains.

tive appellation is

many

comparatively modenr

distinct provinces,

ancient

its

so

called

Po and

from their warlike ensign of a bull

Po and

included between the

the Doria Riparia.

the Tanaro

the

fertile

and

space

But the only provinces to which,

of Piedmont, the present work has any special reference,

prised in the districts of Biella

in the recent

this distinc-

The country between the

the tract now com-

Doria Baltea and the Sesia, was occupied by the Libeti

statistics

But

of Liguria included

of which the Statielli inhabited the eastern portion

the Vagiennij that tract which extends between the

the Tam-ini

name

and

Vercelli.

are those comprised under the political sections of Tui-in, Susa, and Pignerol

and

to these

Of

we

limit the present remarks.

may be

the three regions into which Italy

cHmate,

soil,

and commercial resources, the

and extends along the valley of the Po

characteristic title of

harvests

"the garden of

and unfading

pastui-es;

soil

or

Italy."

where the

the mulberry, amply repay cultivation

exhausting the

first is

tract

divided,

in respect to its

that wliich opens at Susa,

which

vine, the

fully vindicates its

country of luxuriant

It is the

olive, the

walnut, and

and where crop succeeds crop without

becoming deteriorated

in quality.

The wine

of Pied-

mont, though abundant in quantity, has not hitherto been brought to such
perfection as to render

and some

it

an important

article

others, however, are high in price

of commerce;

that of Asti,

and reputation.

The rearing of silk-worms is a department in which the inhabitants of Piedmont -with great encouragement on the part of the landed proprietors have found
much lucrative speculation. Their forests of mulberry trees constitute a certain
annual revenue and from the food thus amply supplied, and to which every
year makes some fresh contribution, silk-wonns are here propagated to an

unlimited amount, and a vast quantity of raw silk prepared for the market, f

*
St.

With the exception of the Superga, the most remarkable of these rock-built palaces is the Convent of
Michael, perched, like an eagle's nest, on a rock, nearly precipitous and overhanging the village of Sant.
The Chateau of Rivoli is also, in point of site, a commanding feature.

Ambrogio.
t

One

of these raw silk manufactories has been very recently introduced at Latour, which promises to be

PKOVINCE OF TURIN.
indeed,

rural industry.

mulberry

is,

AND PRODUCE.

the staple commodity of Piedmont, and

Silk,

of

its

SOIL

is

that

it

11

principal source

tlie

great advantage resulting from the cultivation of the

One

in a soil

thrives

where hardly any other vegetable would.

economy, but confined to

cultivation of rice is another branch of rural

The

natui-ally

localities

allmdal

soil,

marshy, or subject to periodical, inimdations.

of which the plain

is chiefly

The

rich

composed, produces excellent crops of

and hemp, and affords luxuriant pasturage for the breeding of cattle,
in considerable numbers. Turkey wheat is also raised
On the higher grounds which
in great quantities, and of superior quality.
assume the shape of longitudinal or transverse ridges the soil is light, dry, and

wheat,

flax,

which are annually exported

gravelly

and on that account reserved

for the ^dne, which, if

managed with the

France, might be rendered an important agent in extending the

But here, as in most parts of Italy, the mysteries of the ^nnepublic revenue.
On the acclidties, where the grape ceases to
press are still a sealed book.

same

skill as in

flourish,

as already stated, no other profitable crop could be raised,

up the blank, and luxuriates, seemingly, in proportion to
The stem and branches of the tree are not only more
of the soil.

and where,

the mulberry

the sterility

fills

vigorous and healthy, but the leaves are infinitely better in quaUty than those
grown in a humid soil a fact which is known to produce a very sensible difie-

rence in the quality of the silk.*

"Wedged

in

between the Pennine, Grecian, and Cottian Alps, and

natural position under their very shadow

involving

by

its

a certain weight of atmo-

spheric influence, the climate of Piedmont must be necessarily variable. But,

bounded towards the south, by the wavmg chain of the Apennines, and traversed
by numerous rivers and canals, which di-ain the soil of its superabundant
moisture, the evils which might otherwise result fi'om situation are happily neutralised, or at least greatly modified. The torrents constantly discharged by those

inexhaustible reservoirs, the glaciers of the Alps, and which,

if

only impeded for a

day, would transform the magnificent plain, through which they circulate with
hurried
vi\'ifying influence, into a pestilential marsh, are here concentrated and

forward to the Adriatic.f

Thus, dried by the influence of a powerful sun, and

soil is refreshed without

drained by the great natural aqueduct of the Po, the

many advantages to the iniUistrious poinilation ; but how

a question of no slight importance to the rising generation.

attended with
of view

is

it

may

This

operate in a moral point

will

be noticed under

its

proper head.

On the rearing of silk-worms, .ind other topics connected with this important
Comte Dandolo.
reader may peruse irith advantage the treatise on that subject by

It is

calculated that one-third

proportion as to Piedmont

is

more

probably

branch of mdustry, the

rain falls in Italy than in the middle provinces of France.

greater and yet, at times, the drought is severely felt.

still

The

THE WALDENSES.

12

being saturated, and the air purified of

tliose

noxious exhalations which, under

other circmnstances, would accumulate, stagnate, and corrupt every source of

health and enjoyment.

The winter of

this

chmate

is

generally severe

the snow

covers the plain for several successive months.*

wind from the Alps, the cold

.

is

falls early,

and often

During the tramontana, or

The sudden, and

peculiarly searching.

continued, alternations of temperature which attend the vernal equinox,

prejudicial to health,

and a source of considerable annoyance to strangers.

are

But,

on the very frontier of these gigantic Alps, where the causes of atmospheric

phenomena

are in constant operation, and of which the angry breath

to scatter a

bhght over the

last thing to

be expected.

in the opposite

extreme

If the

and

it is

wnter be

smnmer

severe, the

is

is

the

generally

then that the langour and oppression thereby

induced are relieved by the evening breeze from the mountains

which

is sufficient

an equable temperature

fairest vegetation,

a luxury to

who have made summer rambles in the valley of the Po will bear
testimony.
To preserve their vines from the effects of this severe cold,

all

grateful

the proprietors are in the habit of covering

them vdth earth during winter,

and of observing various other precautions respecting the

the cold woidd be destructive, in proportion to

its

fruit trees, to

sudden

which

access, after long

continued heat.
Violent storms of thunder and lightning are the usual announcement of
winter

fact

which, as

it

has often been observed, explains the well-known

passage of Horace,f in which, unless convinced of the

treat the affirmed

The study
the truth

fact,

we should be

connexion between snow and thimder as a 'poetical

of meteorology, however, fully exonerates

of his philosophy.

apt to

licence.'

the poet, and confirms

In the month of August

last year, the wi-iter

was overtaken, by one of those ouragans, or premonitory tempests, between

Pignerol and Turin.
The evening was just closing in, and the effects of the
lightning,

as

it

.succeeding flash

burst from

its

cloudy tabernacle,

truly

appalling.

Every

brought the minutest objects into view, and, by contrast,

rendered the darkness which followed intense.

The thimder, which broke

immediately overhead, and with a commotion that seemed to shake the earth,

On

setting out for Turin, a few years snice, the ivriter left

France with all the usual symptoms of an

had been covered with snow for many weeks, and continued
was cut through a layer of snow several feet
thick.
In the beginning of March, a few days after his arrival in Piedmont, he set out for Genoa, where
again the spring seemed rapidly advancing, and, in its symptoms, formed a striking contrast to what he had
witnessed on the Po.
t " At cum tonantis annus hyhernus Jovis
Imbres nivesque comparat."
early spring; but on his arrival here, the ground
so.

When

he

visited the Superga, the path, in several places,

PROVINCE AND CITY OF TURIN.

was accompanied

^vith rain

The storm

trickling stream into a torrent.

wjis attended, as

13

which, in a quarter of an hour, had transformed every

we afterwards

wth

learnt,

lasted

upwards of three hours, and

and

several distressing accidents

loss

managed his
horses during this difficult passage, were deserving of the highest praise. Though
so near the Po, the fall of liis ancestor, Phaeton,* seemed never once to have
of

The

life.

adroitness and resolution with which our postiUion

crossed his mind.

Of

the magnificent plain of

that powerfully arrest the

feature

puhhc

its

more or

buildings,

cularly

and the elaborate

less distinguished, give it

happy

the

regularity of

and the beauty of

city, it is

style of architecture

by

wliich they are

Doria and the Po,

this natural position

art.

Though

buUt with admirable regularity

exhibits its series of streets and

and commanding

great

plan, the multiplicity of

its

aU

an easy precedence over every other capital

seconded by the embellishments of

populous

richly interspersed with objects

attention

Its situation, at the confluence of the

Europe.

in

The

the city of Turin.

is

Piedmont so

stranger's

squares

parti-

neither an extensive nor

and, in a bird's eye view,

laid

all

is

has been most liberally

down with mathematical

and presenting, in general, the most harmonious proportions, f

The two principal architects employed in its construction, were Guarini

precision,

and Giuvara.
Turin

about a league in circumference,

is

and surrounded by walks and

drives wliich offer a delightful resource for exercise or

the city was strongly defended

securities

by

have at

last given

hundred and

Formerly,

but these warlike

and eighty-four

at right

angles, so

streets

as

to

the

namely, those of Susa, the Po, the Palace, and Porta Nova, are

Po on

change

latter

and

drawi

distribute the city

compartments.

forty-five quartiers, or

architecture, particularly that of the

in all that relates to health

been gainers

It contains thirteen squares

in a sti-aight line, and crossing

into one

amusement.

bastions;

place to the public walks alluded to

wliich the inhabitants have

pleasure.

by ramparts and

The
all

four gates,

of handsome

the east, and the Porta

Nova on

the south, which are cased vrith marble and highly ornamented with statues and
pillars.

To

the stranger, nothing

is

more

striking than the view presented to

he enters by the gate of Susa. The street is of great length, straight

as a line, and in the distance, where it terminates in the Piazza del Castello,

him

as

seems diminished to a point.

The

perspective

is

singularly fine.

Tlie buildings

According to those who explain this fable of the poets, Phaeton was a prince of this countiy, who studied
astronomy, and in whose age the Valley of the Po was parched hy excessive heat,
According to Pliny, Turinthe Augusta Taurinorum was the most ancient city of Liguria.
t

THE WALDENSES.

14

which Kne the

street are all of

an imposing architecture

the house of the private citizen

would pass

It seems, indeed, a street of palaces

Novissima at Genoa,
feature

in these

edifices,

instances,

As

a characteristic

in Europe.

every window
ynth.

defended by projecting

is

seen from the

extremity of the court,

the

taste

in

sculpture or painting

The

a handsome pediment.

entrance consists of a vestibule ornamented with columns and pilasters

work of

edifice.

by the Strada

Venetian shutters, and crowned

jalousies, or

many

and, although surpassed

by any other

is uirrivalled

domestic

and, in

some elegant public

for

street,

calculated

while

generally exhibits

some

the eye.

The

to please

Strada del Po, flanked on each side by lofty arcades, and opening on the bridge,

with the
is

new marble church

in front,

and a

series of hills, sprinkled

a dehghtful promenade, and available at

shelter.

On

whether

with

the theatre of

many dark

an object of curiosity,

is

if

villas,

for shade or

the opposite extremity it terminates in the great square,

the old ducal palace of Savoy

it is

all seasons,

where

not of taste

deeds, and " could a tale unfold"

if it

for

could find

a historian.

immediate but gentle descent towards the Po, and the excellent police

Its

regulations to which

The

it is

subject, render the streets of

salubrity of the air, particularly in

summer,

is

Turin remarkably

clean.

improved and insured by

the excellent custom of opening the sluices every night, so that for several

hours out of the twenty-four, the centre of every street

is

current of water from the Doria, which refreshes the

air,

traversed

by a rapid

sweeps away every

kind of refuse, and serves another important purpose, that of affording an

abundant supply of water in case of

During the greater part of

last

fire.

summer and autumn, when

Genoa, Nice, and Coni, was committing such frightful ravages,

sanitary regulations were

strictly

enforced

the cholera at
this

and other

and to these vigUant measures,

under Providence, Turin and other towns, probably, owed their comparative

exemption from the

many

visitation

of that dreaded pestUence.

Although a great

of the inhabitants, naturally fearful of coming into contact vrith so terrible

an enemy, sought a temporary asylum among the Alps of Savoy and Switzerland,
it is,

nevertheless, highly to the credit of the Turinois, that

and more

influential portion

suggesting measures

example.

few

day

Happily

by

effect

far the greater

actively

employed in

was

their

from cholera was limited to a very

which occurred while the writer was there.

announcement, the

shops were neglected

posts,

and encouraging the timid by

for Turin, the mortality

cases, the first of

after its

remained at their

for the public safety,

visible in every

For the whole

countenance

the

the people talked in melancholy groups under the piazzas

PROVINCE AND CITY OF TURIN.

the churches were crowded

processions

moved from

town presented much the appearance of a

" the
Of

enemy

J5

shrine to shrine

and the

word has passed

city in wliich the

tliat

in the breach."

is

the numerous churches, palaces, theatres, and public institutions with

which Turin

is

no detailed

adorned,

or

enlivened,

profusely benefited,

so

The same apology must

account can be given in the limits of the present work.

be offered for other omissions respecting the state of society, the progress of
science, education,

and various other branches of

statistics,

moral and

political,

but of wliich brief notices will be found interspersed in the body of the work.

late census of the population of Turin makes a return of a hundred and ten

thousand inhabitants

but, calculating the effect of several buildings

gress, this estimate will soon

the left

the

bank of the Po,

new marble church

Monastery on the

a rotimda form, like the Pantheon

accli\-ities,

course of the river to the Adriatic.

from that on the Doria

the Capuchin

are seen to great advantage.

Po

are

drawn up

to the quay,

of boat-building practised here and along

stj'le

in pro-

taken from

the Vigna della Regina, the suburb, and a few villas

hill,

scattered along the coUine, or

half-gondola

now

is

from the bridge, and at a point where

at a short distance

of

of the market-boats that na-vdgate the

the

The View here given

be increased.

is

The bridge or Ponte

an elegant specimen of

and marble, and combining the very

with perfect soUdity of structure.

the right

is

by

art, built entirely

difficult qualities of

On

del Po,

Several

and show
the whole
distinction

of granite

a light and airy span,

seen the

first

house of the

Piazza, and the StradadelPo, terminating, as before stated, in the great square.

Higher up, on the same bank of the

river, are

seen the towers belonging to

the Valentin palace, built, as the inscription informs us,

and dedicated

to the

the course of the river

is

with the isolated siunmit of

at this point is stated at

derable,

and

its

by Christina of France,

" royal amusement" of her sons.*

In the back-ground,

seen terminating in the Alps on the south-west,

Monte Viso on

the

two hundred fathoms

current strong and rapid.

left.
its

The breadth of

depth

is

the

Po

every where consi-

This magnificent river the "

Rex

Flmiorum Eridanus" takes its source about ten or twelve leagues from Turin,
in the recesses of Monte Viso the Vcsidus of poets, and which Virgil has
described as aboimding in pine forests, celebrated for the number and fierceThe Po becomes navigable
ness of the wild boars that frequented them.f
Hie ubi fluviorum Rex, ferocitate deposita placide quiescit, Christina a Francia Subaudise
Cypri regina, tranquillum hoc suum delicium regalibus filiorum otiis dedicavit anno pacato 1G60.
" De montibus altis
f

Actus aper, multos Vesulus quern pinifer aniios

Defendit."

Vmo.

.T.ti. x.

70U.

Ducissii,

THE WALDENSES.

16

and, in a course of three hundred miles, receives

considerably above Turin;

the tribute of thirty rivers

communicates

fertility

washes the vraUs of

and riches to the vast

fifty cities

and tovms * and

;

tract of coimtry

known

the

as

Regio Circumpadana, or Valley of the Po.

number of churches,

In the environs of Tm-in, the

chateaux,
the

is

riches

artificial

But of

strangers.
its

almost unprecedented

both in the history of

the church of the Superga

him

the spot, that

the Virgin would

if

presents from a hundred

to raise the siege,

prosper

The vow was accepted

and the conditions

faithfully

This

performance of a vow

II. in

his

to expel the French, then beleaguering his capital, a

perpetuate his gratitude.f

among

in the style of

its origin,

it

the most remarkable.

is

gorgeous temple was erected by Victor Amadeus

made on

admiration

they contain, are topics of general

all these,

architecture, and in the imposing aspect which

different points,

convents, villas, and

while the prospects they command, and

arms and enable

church should here

the French were compelled

complied with on the part of

The plan was furnished and superintended in its execution

by Don FUippo Giuvara, a native of Messina. The sums expended on this magnificent structure have been immense, and would have buUt, and endowed, a first
the conqueror.

In addition to the vast quantity of precious materials employed,

rate university.

the labour and expense of having them conveyed to their destination on the

The church

top of this steep and isolated summit were enormous.

an octagon dome, supported by eight massy columns,

all

consists of

of difierent and richly

variegated marbles, with chapels of the most elegant design and costly decoration.

To

give any thing like a detailed account of this sumptuous pile

frescoed waUs,

arcades,

proportions

and elaborate

the present work.

by

art

its

when

" jewelled and enamelled

finish,

would

is

rivers are estimated at

its cloisters,

all

by the

superstition of princes,
is

of fine

exceed the prescribed limits of

far

a lesson for

internal features the celebrated chapel of

however,

As a gorgeous monument, showing what may be

fostered

of their subjects, the Superga

This,

altars" J

all

effected

and the mistaken piety

ages,

and resembles in

Lorenzo the Magnificent.

considerably under the estimate given in the following verses

where the

Here
cities

its
is

and

a hundred each.
"

Qua

Eridanus centum Jiuviis comitatus in fequor

Centum urbes
t

Victor

Amadeus

did not begin to redeem his promise

one, ungratefully gave her painted wood

t

On

Fracast. Spph. p. i.
it was not a written
Brockedon-, Excursions, p. 85.

rigat et placidis interim'' undis.-

and

till

nine years after; and as

plaster for marble.

being shown the painting in this church, in which Victor

Amadeus

is

represented addressing himself

to the Virgin, and propitiating her aid by the promise of a splendid temple, Marshall Villars observed, that
the Virgin bore an extreme resemblance to the duchess of Burgundy" La Vierge," dit-il, " reasemble, on ni

pent pas davantage, a

madame

la duchesse

de Bourgogne."

TURIN.
royal

the

CHURCH

OF

SUl'F.Rri A.

]7

where crowned death's heads, and

sepulchre,

richly

emblazoned

surcophagi, announce the precious relics committed to their keeping.

"

Even the

Disguising Death by

storied

um.

magnificence,

its

mortal record traced in gems

Scroll, scutcheon, jewelled crown, and breathing bust

proclaims

As

glittering satire shrine the royal dust

a station for the painter,

situation of this church

is

its

is

!"

and every lover of Nature's magnificence, the

From

unrivalled.

summit the panoramic

its

of the most richly variegated and comprehensive character.

effect

The accom-

panying View embraces the whole chain of Alps, from Monte Viso on the
to

left,

Monte Rosa on

and cupolas in the centre

of

Susa; and a

little

and the Waldenses.

here

shooting

up

and battlements;
glacier crests

of Turin

city

Rivoli in the distance

nearer

The

is

its

its

towers

left,

the

city

of Pignerol

singularly bold and striking

pinnacles,

deep blue evening sky.

are seen the windings of the Po,

spreads

under Mont Cenis, the Pass

and presenting the

dividing into isolated

relief of a

and more to the

outline of the Alps

into colossal groups,

there

on the

The

the right.
;

illusion of towers

and reposing

their

Immediately beneath

confluence with the Doria and Stura, a

vast plain covered with the freshest vegetation,

and animated by innumerable

country houses, whose dazzling whiteness forms a delightful contrast with the
luxuriant foliage in which they are embosomed.

This great landmark of the country, and lasting memorial of

and the passion of

his age,

is

the

first

its

founder

object that meets the traveller as he

But the
commanded

enters the great plain of Piechnont, and the last that disappears.

hill

of the Superga, as Dr. Gilly has well remarked, " would have

the

Its bold
same extensive prospect without the aid of that aspiring dome.
elevation would- of itself have reminded posterity that there stood Prince

Eugene by the
prehended

side of the warlike

duke of Savoy,* when

at a glance the blunders of the

his great

mind com-

French army, and formed a plan

for

but the basilica of Victor Amadeus ought .never to be seen

without raising emotions unfavourable to its founder. It was cemented with
He kept his vow to the
the blood, and washed with the tears, of his people.
their

defeat;

Virgin, and thousands must have been

to

wrtmg from

his subjects to enable

him

do so; but he knew not how to abide by his promises of protection to his

* Eugene and the duke of Savoy first met in a meadow near Carmagnola the one had the interview by
descending from the Tyrolese Alps, and traversing the plains of Lombardy by his victorious troops, and the
other by stealing a march from the recesses at the foot of Monte Viso, where he had been concealed, and
protected by the Vaudois. They ascended the heights of the Superga together: and the transport of the
royal fugitive was so great at hearing Eugene's plan for the relief of his capital, that when he was asked where
:

he would dine, " At Turin ! at Turin

f was

his exulting reply.-GiV/y, p. 52.

THE WALDENSES.

18

faithful Vaudois, although tiiese promises

sacrifices

Taking leave of Turin,

frontier,

we now approach

for the present,

The landscape

at Pignerol.

On

the Waldensian

in a copious and fertilizing stream

up with hamlets,

irrigation,

presents nearly the same features as those akeady

the right are the snow-clad summits of the Alps; on the

Po descends

filled

from iiim by services and

(ira\vn

through the rich and extensive plain which terminates on the west

noticed.

the

were

which deserved the amplest recompense."

and groves of

fruit

The

and mulberry-trees.

hills

The

of Saluzzo on the other.

spacious and

road,

command some

well kept, presents a succession of avenues, which generally

vistas to the
first

gradually merge into the Alps,

terminates in
vines, trained

its

principal

from tree to

is

square,

tree,

The

picturesque and striking.

is

wth

hills

that

avenue, which

lined for several miles with luxuriant

crops of wheat in the intervals, and in the

To

vintage season bending under the weight of the clustered grape.

crowning a gentle swell of the landscape, a large convent

midst of fig-trees and vineyards,

Alps on

view of Pignerol,

an ampliitheatre in the midst of vei-dure, and backed by

rising like

is

richly cidtivated fanns, fields bright and luxuriant with

prominent object at the extremity, or open in agreeable

one hand, and the

left,

whilst the interval

as

if

to

the right,

through the

rises

show how sanctity may prosper

'

although surrounded by temptation.*

The chief feature of Pignerol is the Cathedral, the terrace of which

Within the last year
commands one of the most varied prospects in Italy.
it has undergone numerous repairs and decorations, but chiefly at the hands
of the painter,

who

now

has

generally superseded the sculptor in

tlie

embellish-

ment of the sanctuary and for this good reason, that the operations of the
pencil are much more expeditious than those of the chisel, and wood and
;

canvass cheaper than marble.

This retrenchment has been considered a robbery

of the shrine, and thereby endangering the safety of the state

no

special proofs

of

" celestial disi)leasui-e"

" votive tablets" in the church

is

very great

are

recorded.

some

and the whole well calculated to

" There solemn Capuchin, with cowl and cord,

Doth

of

tolerable finish

and

illustrate the state of religious,

or rather superstitious, feeling in this province.

but hitherto

of them remarkable speci-

mens of the ludicrous and grotesque, but others of very

expression

The number

sorely mortify the stubborn flesh

In vain for him rich viands press the boardIn vain for him the grape is gushing fresh
For well he knows what banquet joys beget,
Where wine abounds, sly Satan spreads his net."
;

PIGNEROL.

CATHEDRAL. NUNNERY.

19

" Here crown, heart, crucifix, and costly braid

Rose

knots, and beads by holy palmer strung

In Calvary's sepulchre, or hallowed shade
Of rich Loretto on its altar hung;
Tablets that may interpret for the tongue

Hopes fondly

Known

The

formerly of great strength,

Citadel,

memory

cherished, dreams to

dear.

but to heaven and the confessor's ear."

now

is

a mass of ruins,

been demolished in compliance with one of the former

cluded between France and Piedmont,
constructed by Louis
curiosity

XIV., the " Man

and speculation

Cathedral, and a

little

is

lower,

in the iron

said to have

the object of

mask"

but to which

commands a

its

fidl

far

much

so

from the

Nunnery, founded by Adelaide

of Savoy in the beginning of the seventh century.

picturesque, and

Not

been imprisoned.

a very ancient

is

having

articles of treaty con-

In a tower of the extensive barracks

The

situation

is

highly

and distant view over the beautiful landscape,

consecrated inmates can never more return.

It

is

a prison

from which death alone can emancipate the captive

" Its threshold, like the gloomy gate of Dis,

Shows other

The

present

the pious

zeal

worlds, but shuts the path to this."

Nunnery was formerly an abbey of monks, who distinguished

of their order by the unrelenting rancour with which they

persecuted the Waldenses

but

its

gentler occupants of the present day,

hoped, practise the dictates of a milder creed.

it is

It is always pleasing to accept

the virtues of the daughter as an atonement for the father's intolerance.

It

would be

difficult to find

to elevate the thoughts,

a scene better calculated to soothe the

and inspire kindly

than that which here engages the spectator.

scape and opens

the

page of history,

spirit,

feelings towards our fellow-creatures,

But,

when he

tiu-ns

from the land-

the beauty of Nature appears as

if

sombred over by the records of human deeds: the stake and the scaffold rise
in melancholy contrast before him, and Pignerol, with all its present air of
tranquillity,

oppressed,

and

all its

natural beauty, seems transformed into a prison for the

and a stronghold

for the oppressor.

It

was the priesthood and

more especial surveil-

garrison of this city that had the Waldenses under their

lance.

Here was the

fortress

from which the government could so readily

dispatch troops into the Valleys for the execution of

its

inhiunan manifestoes;

and here the ministers of the inquisition could hold a convenient tribunal
for disposing of those unhappy prisoners whom the alleged crime of heresy had
Here also, as well as in the capital, an hospital existed
placed in their hands.

and

still

exists,

although with very restricted privileges

for the reception

THE WALDENSES.

ZO

who had been decoyed from

of Waldensian cliildren,

made

the innocent converts to the Catholic faith.

sense, for the infant

their fondest hopes

the

but to the distracted parents

the altar

at

was the

it

to

in

be
one

living sepulchre of

which their name and creed were to be abjured

school where their child, on

whom

they doated, was to be trained in the

language of an apostate, and taught to regard

No

parents,

their

was an asylum, only

It

its

natural ties with abhorrence.

interviews were permitted between parents and children, and the only terms

ever proposed for this effect were on condition that the former should renounce
their creed

for those wily

" shepherds," the priests, naturally inferred, that by

capturing the young of the flock the old must follow

bosom the

love of her offspring

taken in their calculations.

The system,

the wail above the dead," but

among

the parents

it

was stronger than

it

and that

indeed, f)roduced a sorrow " deeper than

does not appear that

had thus cruelly bereaved.

made

it

a single convert

Tlie edict which authorised

this

treatment of the Waldenses was repealed in 1794

the

government found

it

in a mother's

But they were mis-

religion.

expedient to conciliate

its

an

epoch at which

Protestant subjects, by

granting them permission " to see their children," provided " necessary precau-

were taken

tions

at the interview."

the view of obliging

them

It forbade their forcible abduction

to abjure the religion of their parents

with

and ordered

that girls and boys, who, at the respective ages of ten and twelve, presented

themselves
the

voluntarily

at

judges

ecclesiastical

the

asylum,

children

ages were to be restored.

But

should

arrived

the
at

direction

the

of

prescribed

indidgence was the result of political

and not the spontaneous

embarrassment,

be under

who had not

this

dictates

of the

court

or church.

The storm was gathering thick on the frontier, and the ties of nature were
now to be respected, that the well-tried courage of the Vaudois might be made
available in the great collision that

was

to follow.

regard to personal safety

makes us " wondrous kind."

Pignerol

is

the see of an archbishop, the

lation took place in

September, 1824.*

Comte de

Reis,

whose

instal-

During the French occupation, part

* The ceremony is thus graphically sketched by an eye-witness.

" The day (5th of September) was exceedThe large square had been levelled and strewed with sand and soft soil, which the rain soon converted
" The archbishop arrived about five o'clock, and much of the ceremony was evidently
intomud, ankle deep."
abridged.
He was preceded by two dripping trumpeters, and followed by about twenty people on horseback,
" At length the rain abated, the processional forces which had been dispersed
forming a motley cavalry.".
by its violence reassembled, and in sometliing like order proceeded to the church." ..." The halt, the lame,
and the deformed, headed by the verger dressed in a new suit of tawdry, and with a long sword, which puzzled
his legs exceedingly, took the lead.
These were followed by half a dozen squalidtlooUing monks then the
priests of the city and those attached to the cathedral then the archbishop himself, wearing his mitre, beneath
a white canopy, borne by four persons, and riding upon a white horse, caparisoned with white cloth and silver

ing wet.

APPRO \rH TO THE VALLEYS.

of the episcopal revenue was
testant clergy,

appropriated

to

LUZF.RN.

21

maintenance of the Pro-

the

but was again withdrawn on the re-establishment of the old

r^qime.

VALLEYS OF LUZEllN AND FELICE.

In our advance westward, the landscape assumes a new and more imposing

The mountains rise

character.

in abrupt masses

here mantled in dense forests,

and sprinkled with hamlets, or isolated habitations; and there, soaring up in

sterile sublimity, and overlooked in the distance by the glittering pinnacle of

Monte
soil

inten-al

wine,

and

between the

descends

power

its

Along the base of the mountain

Viso.

" corn,
wth

its

oil"

thrive

swell of the

first

frontier, the usual products of the

with undiminished luxuriance.

In the

mountains and Pignerol, the Clusone

copious tribute to the Po, but often leaves fearful endence of

in the disrupture of its bridges

" Sternit agros, steniit

The nearer we approach

and embankments.

s-ita la^ta."

those fastnesses in which, for so

many

centuries, the

"Waldenses have entrenched their faith and freedom, the more we are struck
by the contrast which they offer, compared with the rest of Piedmont; the

more we appreciate those heroic drtues that have left in every defile imperishable records of what they have achieved and suffered and the more we admire
;

that piety and patriotism which counted nothing a sacrifice so long as they were
left to serve

God

in the simplicity of their hearts,

and

to earn a frugal subsist-

Surrounded by powerful nations, in whose

participation, and isolated by their religion, no less than

ence by the labour of their hands.

state policy they

had little

beyond the pale of common sympathy, here they cherished

first kindled by the apostles a flame
which has survived the shock of revolutions, the fall of empires, and descended
with undiminished brightness to the present day. Europe was shaken by
their natural position
in

silent thankfulness that vital flame,

mans houseThis was not in imitation of his Master's humility in cntc.ing Jerusalem. The Ijreat
pe.isantr>-.
;
and the proces.iion was brought up hy a large mob of citizens, and the ncishbourini;
holy water-they had just
entering at the church door, the archbishop sprinkled those nearest to him with
long for us to witness,
too
ceremonies
some
went
through
porch
he
At
the
heaven.
from
purer
received some

bullion.

hold followed

On

in the midst of

pp. 89, 90.

a crowd from whidi we found

it

difficult to extricate

onniUe%r-Brockcdons Eicurtwnt,

THE WALDENSES.

22

the monuItaly was overrun by successive hordes of barbarians

ments of her ancient glory were trampled under foot; the shrieks of the
rival
armies
resounded
oppressed were heard in every city, and the march of

convulsions

science and art gave place to violence and the sword mind
to sea
was every where held in subjection to matter endowments, which confer dignity
on human nature, were brought into degrading contrasts with physical strength
and the whole fabric of society convulsed and degraded during a period which has

from sea

been justly characterised as the dark ages of history. But here, during the long
" a vase in which some
reign of ignorance and superstition that intervened like
precious treasure had been hermetically sealed up"
precious doctrines of revealed truth

enjoyment of

in darkness," continued in the

these Valleys enclosed the

and, while the surrounding nations " sat

When,

its light.

at

length, the

passion for crusades had wasted itself in fruitless expeditions, and the symptoms
" vase" was
of a new morn began to cheer the moral horizon of Europe, the

opened, and from this sequestered corner of the christian vineyard a

evangelists disseminated those

To

faitliful depositaries.

new

race of

"glad tidings" of which they had long been the

their labours in

Bohemia, where their tenets were

first

])romulgated by John Huss and Jerome of Prague, and previously embraced by

WicklifFe,

England

is

indebted for the earliest seeds of the Protestant Church.

" Dift'used, and fostered thus, the glorious ray

Warmed
'Twas

where

it

went, and ripened into day.

theirs to plant in tears the precious shoot,

"Tis ours in peace to reap the promised fruit.

By them

the hulivark of our faith was built

the blood they spilt
In Heaven's high cause they gave all man could

Our church cemented by

And

died

its

In the Valley of Luzern, the

first

Waldensian or Protestant

of St. John, the residence of the moderator

M. Bonjour,

informed on every subject connected with his sacred office

of its important duties,

every

tie

of duty and

happily for the

affection
in the

and

church formerly existing

still

at Chiabas,

been substituted by a handsome

Waldensian

give.

martyrs, that the Truth might live."

whom

vigour of Ufe.

near Angrogne,

village is that

man
he

is

thoroughly

endeared by

The Protestant

and now in

edifice in this village.

temples,, and, being erected

agreeable feature in the landscape.

flock, to

active in the discharge

ruins,

has

It is the best of the

on a considerable eminence, forms an

Overlooking the

village,

and meeting the eye

at a distance, it informs the spectator that here is the first line of

which separates the popish and apostolic chuirches.

The

interior

demarcation
is

of an oval

form, simple, but elegant in arrangement, and crowned by a handsome cupola.

VALLEY OF H'ZF.UN.
It

has two small towers, but

belfries.

probably

now

ol"

LA TOUR.

much

an arcliitccture

however, ought

paratonnerre, or electric conductor,

is

employed,

i2;}

too superficial to he used as

to

be

and

in order to prevent the recurrence of that melan-

summer

choly catastrophe from lightning, which, in the

The

death of several individuals.

Catholic church only

is

of 18,S3, caused the

furnished with bells

;*

but their peal serves the double purpose of assembling the two congregations.

To

avoid, however,

as

much

as

possible, all risk of contamination

from the

sounds that issue from the Protestant temple, and to shelter the lambs of their
own fold from the " heretic wolves" on the opposite side, the Catholic party

have erected a strong barricade in front of their sanctuary.

But, in former

would have been composed of bayonets;

so far, therefore,

times, this barricade

has the christian spirit of toleration manifested

progress in the Valleys of

its

I'iedmont.

The Valley

of Luzern, composed of alluvial

soil, is

by

far the richest of those

which the Waldensian Confederacy have any settlements

in

parochial district of St. John

and Au-Fond
and

may

plain,

fertile

comprising the hamlets of

be considered the garden.

and of these, the

Gonin, Blonat,

Peyi-ots,

It consists of a

picturesque

bordered towards the south by verdant meadows, dipping

gradually into the waters of the Pelice, and in every other direction presenting
a rich

melange of

fruit-trees,

vineyards, and corn-fields.

and festooned from tree

])articularly luxuriant,

to tree

at

The vineyards

are

such a height from

the ground as to leave spacious avenues, under shelter of which the oppressive

summer

heat of

is

unfelt, the labours of

gather in the rich wheat harvest.

the

\-ine

husbandry are carried on, and reapers

and mulberry has acquired

its full

expansion

in drooping clusters from the arched berceau

steers are seen at intervals

when the mingled foliage of

when the grapes descend
when the husbandman and his

In the season

through the

trees,

and the sound of happy voices

unites in one universal expression of gladness

such as poetry

itself

The

and lasting impression on the stranger.

fences, are

and gratitude

could hardly exaggerate, and never

kbour of

a picture

make

a vivid

generally lined with fruit-trees of various kinds, but chiefly \vith

He

others.

is

it

public road, the footpaths, and

mulberries, which, for the reasons already stated, the

all

fails to

this

husbandman

feeds the silk-worms with the leaves; and by his

prefers to

own and

the

wonderful insect, pays the lancUord and the heavy taxes of the

state.
*
tlie

The

Protestant temple liaviiig two tnwcrs mlliout

circiimshince has given rise to the following pun

cents) cloches.'*

expected by

readers of Waldensian History.

all

il/M./on, iiv.

i.

p. 45.

An

excellent

iiulls,

"

ami

tlie

SI. .lean

work,

il

Catlinlic churcli

y a

one tower

trois clochers et

deux

the second volume of which

is

teith bell?,

s.ins

(deui

anxiously

THE WALDENSES.

24

As we

advance towards

sceneiy becomes bolder.

right

and

left

La Tour,
Riclily

by which

Luzern, a small Catholic town,

lized.

and contributes, by

the landscape.
tragical

hills rise in

undulating swells to the

in front, the Valley, contracting into a defile, shows at intervals

the rapid course of the Felice,

river,

the capital of the Protestant Valleys, the

wooded

Its

deeds,

to

its

convenf.

it

alternately wasted

is

and

and church, to the picturesque features of

now grass-grown, have been the arena

which we shall advert in a future portion of
streets,

of several
the work.

Between Luzern and the public road, a handsome building has been
foliage in

which

it is

embowered.

little

La Tour,
defile,

now

only deserving of notice as the

so called

little

first

short of a hun-

supplied with. the means of a comfortable subsistence.

Angrogne

and La Tour, over-

Castelluzzo, opens before us.

from the ancient fastness which closed the entrance to

this

and built in an angle formed by the streams of Angrogne and Pelice,

much more remarkable

for

it is

further the road crosses the torrent of

hung by the bold rocks of

is

But

manufactory introduced into the Valleys, and where

dred individuals are

lately

the white walls of which form a pleasing contrast with the dense

erected,

silk

ferti-

conspicuous on the opposite side of the

is

Waldensian history than

for the station it holds in

any peculiarity of situation or scenery.

It

engages the mind, rather than

the eye of the spectator, and awakens associations which, for the interest they

independent of external appearance.

excite, are entirely

famous in the history adverted

of

Mount Vandalin

embowered under
woidd have been

we view

it

tinguished

to, its

in the back-ground, surrounded

sufficient to

inhabitants.

of the Valleys."

The

dismantled by Francis

recommend

it

been

less

by vineyards, orchards, and

as a delightful residence.

La Tour may be

tower, by which
I.,

it

was formerly held

destroyed by Lesdiguieres,

The eminence on which

every other trace of

its

military

it

stood

But when

which have so often

justly considered as the "

at last so completely razed that its very foundations

of question.

it

with the bold rocks

the loftier shadow of walnut, chestnut, and mulberry trees

in connexion with the ennobling virtues

its

But, had

picturesque situation

dis-

Lacedtemon

in subjection,

was

but again rebuilt, and

have almost become a matter

is

still

named

the Fort

but

importance has long disappeared under the

shade of luxuriant vineyards.

During the pestilence of 1630, La Tour was resorted

to

of distinction as an asylum during that fearful visitation.

tliat

by

several families

Amongst

of Solaro retired hither with a daughter, the beautiful Octavia,

offers an affecting episode in the history of the time.

nrtues of her mind and the graces of her person, she was

others,

whose death

Equally admired
literally the

for the

" Rose

EPISODE.

portrait

NEW

and might

of the Valleys,"*

COLLEGE AT LA TOUR.

have served

25

an original

as

for

the

following

" Early in years, and yet more infantine

In figure, nhe had sometliing of sublime
In eyes which sadly shone as seraphs' shine.
All youth, but with an aspect beyond time,
Eadiant and grave as pitying man's decline
Mournful, but mournful of another's crime,

She looked

as if she sat

by Eden's

And grieved for those who

La Tour
In 1593,

has been the scene of

many

door,

could return no more."*

calamities, to

which we

Spanish mercenaries laid a great portion of

the

shall again advert.

it

in ashes, and

continued their pillage with a brutality worthy of the cause in which they had

embarked. t Previously to

this, it

was the scene of indiscriminate massacre, under

the Count de la Trinite, in 1560, but the horrors of which were far exceeded

by

that which took place ninety years later, xmder the atrocious Pianezza.

La Tour

the only place in the Valleys where the inhabitants are allowed

is

the benefit of a classical seminai7.J

liberal education, the

and Lausanne.

the public school of

Amongst other

the higher departments of a

to

Geneva

Trinity,

henceforth be identified with a coUeo-e,

will

and which, we were happy

suitors she attracted the admiration of

opposed to her own.

all

propitious epoch, however, has at length arrived, and

La Tour

Holy

dedicated to the

For

youth of the Waldenses have hitherto resorted

more

For a long time,

desirable in a temporal point of view;

it

to observe in the

one whose religious sentiments were diametrically

met with no encouragement for, however
violence of persecution had suffered little

appears, his attentions

still,

at a period

when the

ab<itement, her union with a Catholic was repugnant to the desire of her family, and could
faint prospect of happiness to herself,

if,

but a very
on a subject the most essential to domestic happiness, unanimity was
oft'er

But many personal accomplishments, many proofs of an ardent attachment, and longlast prev.iileil, and she consented
influenced, perhaps, by the hope of being thus
have their confiscated property restored to her parents, and of becoming the gentle mediatrix

to be overlooked.

continued assiduities, at

enabled to
between Catholic and Protestant.

was also an express condition in the marriage, that she should he at full
liberty to continue the sjime religious course in which she had been educated. But that picture of domestic
happiness to which her virtues and aftertinn so eminently entitled her, was never realized. She could not
listen in sileiue to

the gratuitous

tli.

'.

fis|i,i.

spectator of this, and

,.]:

,_

It

'';,.
,

^Lu-.

liv ,niii.,,,a

Ihi

,1

i.il

,i|,i,1k-i1
eil

to her religion

for

and

her conversion.

its

professors,

Her husband,

and defended both from

it is said, was no calm

r.]'niaehes directed against her, as an ohstmate heretic, succeeded in

some time, and at length exchanged an embittered existence for a

liv., and Dr. Gilly, chap. vii.
nobles damoiselles qu'y ^talent, " jusqu'.\ vouloir couper les doigts &
quelques-unes qui ne pouvaient sitot lour arracher les bagues d'or." Gilles, quoted by Afuslon, liv.
p. 48.
destroj-ing her health.

blessed immortality.
t

lis depouillerent

She drooped

The

for

historian Gilles has recorded this fact, chap,

bnitalement

les

i".

t The

Grammar

School has been long supported by contributions made in Holland.

An excellent
M. Pellecrini an able .ind experienced teacherat La Tour,
presents every facility for acquiring a general and classical education. The terms are exceedingly moderate,
and the method pursued in every way calculated to meet the approbation of parents, and to recommend the
boarding-school, imder the direction of

institution.

To this subject we

shall revert in the course of the work.

course of last

Autumn, was making slow but steady

of this importance has been long a desideratum

Protestant brethren,
restriction

can

who

An

progress.*

and to the

institution

liberality of their

having themselves enjoyed such blessings without

best appreciate their value, the

It is unnecessary to state, that,

Waldenses look

for

without this support, the imited

support.

efforts of the

population would be quite insufficient to accomplish so noble an end, and

feel assured that their appeal will

not be made in vain.

which every friend to religious freedom and enlightened

science,

lower of a kindred church, should willingly contribute a stone

will serve at

manent

once as a noble

blessing

to

those

for

monument

whom

it

expressly

founded.

everj' fol-

and, if so,

of fi-aternal sympathy,
is

we

a structure to

It is

it

and a per-

May

their

and may learning extend her

fondest expectations be crovraed with success!

many

benign influence over those retreats, where, during so

centuries, the

pure light of religion has shone with undiminished lustre.f

Beyond

a very advantageous position,

this, in

by subscriptions

enterprise originated with

in the Valleys in the

the

WiUiam

summer

of 1821

sum of two hundred and

Havuig obtained

butions, the

the public Hospital, founded

This benevolent

Plenderleath, Esq., diu-ing his

;

residence

who, in the following year, transmitted

seventy francs, being part of the sacramental

collection of the English congregation at

object.

is

collected in the various Protestant states.

Rome,

in furtherance of this important

their sovereign's permission to solicit foreign contri-

Waldenses were warmly supported by the king of Prussia, who

authorised a collection to be

made

in the churches of his dominions,

and

contributed one hundred ducats from the privy purse.

In appearance, this hospital

is

an old manorial mansion, enclosed in a garden,

with open balconies, and enjoying a free circulation of

air.

The

establishment

under the direction of Dr. Coucourde, and strongly recommended by the

is

excellent

season

sanitary regulations to which

were

few.

By

the judicious

is

it

subject.

treatment

The

so happily

patients at this

pursued by the

physician and his colleagues in these Valleys, the public health of late years

has materially improved, and the present generation seem exempt from several

it stands in a field, between La Tour and the

and overlooking the Felice, which flows at a few steps distant under.a gentle acclivity,
Learning has seldom found a more pleasing asylum.
t While these sheets were in the press, the author has been favoured with a communication from the
Rev. Dr. Gilly, in which he mentions, " I have lately sent off three cases of books for the College of the
Holy Tnnity at La Tour." Such an example cannot fail to have imitators. Dr. Gilly's devotion to the
We are
best interests of the Vaudois churches, is equally gratifying to them, and honourable to himself
happy to add, that the same distinguished Writer is now engaged in preparing a History of the Waldenses,

The

situation for this institution has been well chosen

villaRe of Marguerite,

richly trellised with vines.

drawn from

original sources.

THE HOSPITAL.
of the physical

to

e\-ils

PROTESTANT

CHURCH SERVICE.

ii

But

which their predecessors were victims.

in reference

to the maladies which chiefly afflicted the inhabitants in past times, the predis-

may be

posing causes

The

climate.

traced to circumstances totally different from those of

prevailing maladies are of an inflammatory character.

The apprehension

of cholera, which, at the time in question, was very fatal

in the neighbouring districts,

whilst the different

science or

had put the whole establishment on the

communes furnished every means

humanity could suggest.

for its prevention

Happily for the Valleys,

epidemic was arrested at the frontier, and the inhabitants

of their usual

health. We

shall revert to this

this

left in

Hospital and

alert,

which

formidable

the enjopnent

its statistics,

in

fiiture page.

On

entering the consulting room, a fine bust of Alexander, late emperor of

Russia,

is

the

first

object that arrests the attention,

and serves

as a grateful

Having been induced

memorial of his munificence to the Waldenses.*

to

apply his hand to the good work, the late emperor entrusted Count Waldbourg
Truchsess with the sum of twelve thousand francs.

was employed

third part of this

sum

complete the purchase of a house and premises for the

to

proposed hospital, and the remainder to build the church at Pomareto.f

The day chosen

for visiting the

Church of La Tour,

at Copies,

was on Sunday,

which, compared with the observance of that day in other parts of the province,

presented a most gratifying

secting

the

accKvities,

contrast.

Through the various avenues,

and opening upon

this venerable

temple,

inter-

the village

population was observed slowly proceeding to the calm celebration of the day of
rest.

The

patriarch with his sons, the matron with her daughters, the master

with his household

all

with that

air of cheerful

and unaffected piety

eminently distinguished the various groups as they passed

salutations,

where the present temple, their noblest monument,

graves of the dead

and,

with

its

vvliich so

met and exchanged

rises over the

green enclosure, might have served as an

original for the well-known " Elegy in a Country Churchyard."

The

interior of the church is plain in design

and execution, and

nothing

offers

that can divert the attention from the solemn and impressive service to which

In acknowledging the liberal donation of the imperial bounty, the late Moderator, in his letter of thanks,
thus expresses himself: " Le pau\Te qui entrera dans notre hopital, dira avec attendrissement Si je suis

en partie a Alexandre ; et accompagnera cet hommage d'un voeu pour votre

en priere dans le temple do Pomaret, en pr^sentant a Dicu son oifrande dira Si j'ai pu
venir dans la maison de TEtemel, Alexandre m'ea a facility la voie ; Seigneur, rends-lui un centuple son
Ainsi, dans le sanctuaire, comme dans la maison de charity. Ton entendra votre nom prononcd avec
bienfait
dans cet

recueilli

majesty!

Le

asile, je le dois

fidele,

gratitude par la gdndration prifsente et par cellcs qui la sui\Tont."

t

In speaking of their distinguished benefactors,

Waldbourg Tnichscss

it

is

due

to the excellent

to record his indefatigable exertions in favour of the

and philanthropic Count

Waldenses.

THE WALDENSES.

28
it

is

It is a tabernacle of

devoted.

which the fastidious

architect,

perhaps,

would be ashamed, but which the humble piety of the Vaudois has invested
with a sanctity which

all

the vain accessories of art could never bestow.

It

corresponds with the simplicity of that primitive worship which they profess,

and needs not the " foreign aid of ornament" to awaken those feelings which
can alone harmonize with the house of prayer,

M.

Peyran, the able and zealous pastor of

La Tour,

in the several divisions

of the sermon, evinced a thorough acquaintance with

persuasive eloquence in

liis

subject,

and that

treatment and exposition, which enlist the hearers

its

on the side of truth, and make curiosity subservient to edification. In a brief

allusion to the pestilence with which the Valleys wei-e then tlireatened, he found
an impressive topic for illustrating the

tenure of existence, and of bringing

frail

home to every bosom the necessity of being " also already."

The service of the day was rendered stiU more interesting by

the ceremony

of baptism which followed, and the affecting address with which the youthful

on the great responsibilities in wliich they had

admonished,

parents were

The young

solemnly engaged.

couple,

who had

thus given their

first

" pledge to

society," were attired in the usual dress of the Valleys ;* but the infant was dis-

tinguished
affection,

by a

had made no

mantlet, and other decorative

richly coloured

which showed that

this domestic festival

was one

for

symptoms of

which the mother

preparation

little

"

While hope, yet

struggling with contending fears,

Displayed the rainbow of her future years

Portrayed her home, her heart, restored to

And

that fair cherub nestling

on her

rest.

breast."

filled up the intcn'als in the day's service, was little indebted

modern composition; but it was a song in which all prejoin with one heart, and in the fine choral swell wliich followed,

The music which

to the science

of

seemed to
showed the vast superiority of the human voice over those instruments which
have too generally usurped its place in the sanctuary. The organ, as employed
sent

own

in our
in use

churches, forms a sublime accompaniment to the sacred melodies

but where the entire congregation, as in the present instance, unites

in one simultaneous act of praise,

it

binations are but feeble substitutes.

The

dress

worn by the Vaudois

country, the society of Friends

in

is

forms a symphony to wliich

Such, at

least,

all

other com-

was the author's impression,

very similar to that used by the excellent community in our

own

mentioning whom, the name of Allen will readily occur to every reader,

as a benefactor of the Waldenses in

its

truest acceptation.

THE VICTIM.

TRAITS

OF VAUDOIS CHARACTER.

29

even when he compared the " Miserere" in St. Peter's, or the late

festival in

Westminster Abbey, with the sabbath-concert in the church of La Tour.

Among
inculcated

the Waldenses, a knowledge and taste for sacred music

is

diligently

and thus, being early instructed in vocal harmony, their psalmody

as correct in sound as it

is

rich in expression.

From

is

the strong resemblance

between the tunes here in use, and those stmg in the Scotch Presbyterian
chm-ch,

it is

not improbable that the

latter, originating here,

were introduced into

Geneva with the Reformation, and thence by Knox and others into Scotland.*
Continuing our progress a little beyond the village of Copies, we observe
two hamlets of Taillaret and Bonet, each occupying one

the

moimtain stream, bordered

vfith

lofty

precipices,

From

village of Ste. Marguerite, into the Pelice.

which

confined, as the melancholy fact

it is

is

side of the Bigliem,

and descending by the

the summit of the rocks by

recorded, a

young Vaudois

girl, to

escape from the brutal hands of her pui'suers, threw herself headlong into the
Instances of the same undaunted

abyss.

the history of those times

was only dear so long as

defile that, in

inhabitants.
fifteen

it

resolution are but too frequent in

but they are worthy of the people to

could be held with honour.f

whom

life

was by the same

February 1561, three bands of assassins rushed dowTi upon the

The

facts are briefly these

Having

hundred men, the enemy made a charge

patriots,

It

wth

received a reinforcement of

such

efiect that the

Vaudois

with the loss of two of their comrades, were constrained to give way and

retreat to a higher position.

Seeing

this,

and thinking the day was already

their

own, the invaders began to celebrate their victory by rejoicings, flourishing of

trumpets, rolling of drums, and tiunultuous shouts of triiunph from the hiU
to the valley,

But these

where the cavalry was waiting to act in concert with the troops.
were premature. After having retired about a stone's cast,
says the historian, " calling upon the Lord their trust, again

rejoicings

the Vaudois,

faced the enemy."

Those who had no muskets had recom-se

to slings,

and,

supplied by the pebbles at their feet, discharged such a hea\'y and continued

hail-shower upon their adversaries, that three several times they

and were as often repulsed.

made an

assault,

In the intervals, and while the enemy were taking

breath to renew the assault, the Vaudois "lifted up their voices to

God

in prayer,

which much surprised the enemy; and, when the charge was renewed,

all

Unless the authiir is much mistaken, the tune to which the psalm w.is chanted on the present occasion
was " The Martyrs," one of the sacred melodies on which time and circumstances have conferred a peculiar

sanctity.

"Qua!, cum pudicitiae sua; vim parantium militum se manibus extricasset, instantibus iisdem, prsecit
pitem e rupe pra-nipta se postremo dedit, ut furentium grassatorum libidinem morle generosa clauderel."
Such is the testimony of the Catholic historian, Thuani, lib. xxvii. Gilles has also recorded a fact of this
.

THE WALDENSES.

30
siimiltaneously invoking the

of valour and resolution."

to all

who could

Supreme Arbiter of the conflict, performed miracles

The women and children eagerly supplied pebbles

use the sling, while the others,

who

to share in the conflict, continued to implore with tears

felt their

own

incapacity

and supplications the aid

Heaven in behalf of their brethren, now struggling in the gap of destruction.

The prayer of the feeble and the helpless was answered for scarcely had the
last assault been given, when a messenger arrived with the joyful announcement
of

that relief
of

was

at hand.

Angrogne hasten

be God,

who hath

and pious
bulletin

'

Courage

to our aid

style of the historian

but

all

so conspicuous

!'

he exclaimed

!'

Such,

"

'

and sword of their enemies.

of dimensions

slightly modified

by

Blessed

indeed from that of the modern

It is

renowned

La Tom-, throws
in

its

Waldensian history

On

and rude

like a vast

its flank,

overhanging the precipice, rises the celebrated rock of Castelluzzo.

and

'

briefly, is the simple

which the persecuted found a temporary respite from

as the natural fortress in

a natural grotto

our brethren

as closely allied in history as in art.

in our approach to

notice.

the people shouted with joy,

difierent

and dignity are

simplicity

Mount Vandelin,

fire

And

courage

sent us this timely succour

shadow upon the scene under

the

!'

art

sufiicient to contain three or four-

forms the cave of " refuge"

to

which the Vaudois

aged, during the sangmnary conflict to which they were exposed.

It

is

and the
divided

and contains one indispensable requisite of a

a good supply of water, but cannot

now be

this,

hundred persons,

retired, at various intervals, with their wives, their children, the sick

into several compartments,

fortress

Within

fort

visited miless at considerable risk,

and by means of a rope-ladder, which an English

traveller

had recently con-

structed for the purpose.

During the calamitous period when the Vaudois were hunted from place to
and " wandered about in dens and caves of the earth," this was their

place,

melancholy prison

but the horrors

of a good conscience,

of which were softened by the testimony

and a thorough conviction

that,

although the sky of

outward prosperity was darkened, the favour of Heaven was not withdrawn.
Tliey beheld " the cloud by day, and the pillar of
like the

Hebrews

fire

by night,"

in the wilderness.
" Here, pent as in a grave, the morning shed

No

welcome light around the sick-man's hed

The barren rock and here, in vain caressed.
The babe drooped withering on its mother's breast.
;

famished with long want

Faint with long watching

And bloodhounds prowling round

Each

Came

that dismal haunt;

shot that rang prophetic from the vale.

like the herald of

some

fearful tale."

that led them,

STRATAGEM.

ViLLAR, the entrance

vignette,

is

CONVENT

OF VILLAR, AND TRADITION.

which the

to

artist

one of the most picturesque

character of

vineyards by which
stages behind,

its

it

terraced gardens piled

encircled, the

is

it

The grotesque

localities in the Valley.

singular position on vsrhich

architecture, the

its

ol

has here represented in a striking

the

built,

is

in successive

two churches, Protestant and Catholic, now rising to the sky

the solemn air of antiquity, and the venerable aspect

in apparent concord,

even the dilapidation

inhabitants,

all

historical events of

at

of

combine

houses, and that air of penury which marks

its

arrest the stranger's attention,

to

which

and

recall

its

those

has been the fertile arena.*

it

The convent of monks, which formerly existed in this place, was destroyed
the commencement of the last century, but has acquired a place in the history
In an assembly of the

of these Valleys from the following circmnstance.

Waldenses, held at Brouisse in 1653,

commit the building

a traitor to their cause, to

and thereby give suSicient cause

The

upon the inhabitants.

sufficient artifice to

was resolved,

it

traitor

in the

pay of the Propaganda, and, having

But when the

latter, assisted

by two others named

Pellene, called an assembly, where the subject was discussed,

His infatuated accomplice, however

his diabolical

purpose

made

by the

officers

community

thousand men, directed

set fire to the convent.

march upon ViUar.

his brethren

source.

This outrage was

at the

cflbrts of

from any participation

head of

five

or six

The consequences which must

have inevitably ensued to the devoted population

prevented by the strenuous

trjiitor in

Vengeance was denounced against

and the Count Tedesco,

his

the

of the Propaganda, and the fact represented to

the duchess regent in the blackest colours.

the whole

was highly cen-

it

resolved to support

a feigned report to the two Pellenes, who, the

same night expelled the monks, and

instantly resented

monks,

vengeance

its

engage the wife of a certain pastor in the conspiracy, gained

over her husband also.

sui-ed.

the instigation of

the government to direct

for

was

at

to the flames, expel the

in the outrage,

were happily

of Villar,

the pastor Leger,

who

and traced

fully vindicated
it

to its proper

But, although this interposition was effectual, for the time, in checking

the open vengeance of the Propaganda, the act was considered a sufficient

apology for

the

infliction

of those calamities which

* Bluston, with a fervour but fidelity of Je3cription wliich renilcrs

native Valleys, describes

it

thus : "

De

him

at

shortly

followed.

once the poet and

toutes les communante's Vaudoises,

ViUar

liistorian

The

of his

est peut-etre la plu.

timidement k travers les arbres sur la cime d'un terrain cboule, qui
montre a nud ses dechii-ures jaunes et grisatres mais si on le prend en face, depuis les prairies de Lanvers,"
V" alors il se montre
(the name given to all that part of the Valley situated on the right bank of the Felice
blanc et chaud des couleurs, comme une petite vUle d'Esp.igneoud'Italie, sousleurciel prodjgue dc lumiere."
pittoresque.

II sc prdsente, d'abord,

Hist, dei Vaudois, par Alexis Mijston, T.D., 1835.

dZ

THE WALDENSES.

injurer rarely forgives

the

injured often

and here the truth of the adage

received further confirmation.

But the pious inmates of the convent, which had thus sufiered by an isolated
act of violence, had long manifested the hostility by which they were actuated
towards the Protestant inhabitants and the follomng trait, as recorded in the
;

Taking advantage of

traditions of the place,* will serve to illustrate the fact.

monks,

their juxta-position to the offensive object, the

it

appears, had diligently

emjjloyed themselves for some time in making a subterraneous passage from

the cells of the convent to the foundations of the Protestant temple.
object in this secret enterprise,

of powder, and thus

as the

was

to construct a mine, introduce a

Their

few casks

most summary method of ridding themselves of a

church and people so obnoxious to their own order

heretics into the air during the time of ser\dce.

blow the whole house

The

and

miners, that there might

be no apprehension of discovery, were only allowed to work during the night

but, in the midst of
their

tliis

security,

and in the prospect of shortly completing

diabolical purpose, the progress

A woman,

unexpected check.

of the pious brotherhood received an

happening to pass near the convent at day -break,

and hearing a deep, intermitting, noise under her

cussions,

feet, as if from successive conwas struck with apprehension of some inexplicable danger threatening

The

the tovra, and hastened to inform the syndic.

magistrate, attended

by a

few others, repaired to the suspected quarter, and there, placing a small piece

money upon

of

a tense drum-head, saw, to their surprise, the coin

quiver at every short

pickaxes under ground.

By

to

The remains

effect.

and

simple but effectual contrivance, the mine

this

was discovered, and that dreadful

lated

sliift

corresponding with the repeated strokes of the

intei-val,

disaster prevented

which

of this monastic tunnel,

it

it

was so well calcuis

said,

are

still

\-isible.

Continuing our progress westward through the villages of Vignes, Cassarots,

All," says Muston, " baptized with blood and witnesses

Gamier, and Pianta, "

of heroic combats,"

we come

to the torrent

serve as the eastern limits to the

De Thou.f

and bridge of the Subiasque, which

commune

of

Bobi

the

Bobiaca Vallis of

This part of the Valley which, on entering ViUar, appears as

almost shut out from the eye, gradually expands into a wide and

meadows, watered by the

covered with

bordered
the
*

all

round by a girdle of

commmie.
Muston, Hist.

Hewn

forests

in the mountains,

river Pelice

and

and

which constitute the natural riches of

and brought down

to depots near the

p. 55.

t Augrtinia Vallis ....

qua-, reflexo

if

fertile basin,

its tributaries,

meridiem versus per Bobiacam Vallem finu,.connectitur,

lib.

xxvii.

COMMUNE OF
road, the timber

is

BOBI.

ROCK

OF BARbND.

33

there exposed for sale, and offers a ready supply for domestic

purposes, of which the hearths and homely architecture of the valley are the
principal sources of

The

The small town and territory of Bobi form

many important events in the history of the Waldenses.

demand.

the combined arena of

picturesque, and even sublime scenery which the environs present,

is

justly

who have penetrated its recesses and few portions of the

Valleys can furnish more striking subjects for the pencil, or more fascinating
The affecting lines, here extracted from
episodes for the poet and historian.

admired by

all

strangers

a manuscript poem, were lately written by one of

now an

exile,

its

most talented sons

and

because talented and devoted to the cause of truth.*

the upper extremity of this Valley, and immediately overlooking the

In

village of Bobi, is

an abrupt gigantic point of rock, which, when closely inspected,

It diNades the two Combes du Pra

seems of almost incalculable proportions.

and Ferriere, and the Col-Julien,

both of which take their
result of

some remarkable convulsion

through which the light

By

Malpretus.

edge of

the

at the confluence of the Pelice

in

remote ages,

freely admitted,

is

the

summit of
is

a long

and Cruel,

this rock, the

cleft,

or fissure,

and in that portion wliich overhangs

cautiously approaching on our hands and knees towards the

and looking do\vn, we discover the Valley at a great depth

it
men and cattle passing and repassing the inha-

this opening,

river

At

rise at this point.

winding through

work in the field, but without hearing a voice or sound so

completely removed is the spectator at this elevation from all that meets the
In midway air, and
ear in the common intercourse and occupations of life.

bitants at their

lightly poised

ravens

him

sail

on wings that in their deep glossy colour resemble arches of

jet,

past from time to time between the earth and the spectator showing

that his position

is

within the territory of the eagle.

This remarkable rock, so well described by Muston, formed one of the strongposts of the Vaudois in the " Rentree" of 1689, as we shall have occasion to
notice in a future page of this work.

It

commands

the entire horizon from the

extremity of the Valley to the banks of the Po.

last rays

approach of night has gradually softened the

"

Calme

abris

Rocs, a la

oil

je re^us le jour

fois autels et

Adieu!

fescarpf 3, et

mon

campagne

liis

fleurie.

creur qui s'iiloigne accable

pleurer dans unc autre patrie

N'oubliez pas votre

U,\y

mausolees,

nos martyrs magnifiques s^jour

Monts

Va

of the sun, as he descends

de nos douces Valines

Ciol d'ltalie,

De

In the evening, when the

rentree be as speed/

fils

exile

and honourable as

t"AtS.

his

exUe wa* sudden and oppressive

THE WALDENSES.

34
behind

this

out-post,

lofty

subdued

and

strength

his

in

and

brilliancy,

surrounded by a thousand cloud-tints of scarlet and purple, that encircle him

like a vast coronet of glowing rose-leaves

with the gorgeous

suiFiised

But

triumph.

it is

then that this colossal rock,

like the victor's glory, is transient; the

magic colouring,

this

appears like a victor in the midst of his

light,

shades of twilight gradually climb the mountain, and at length settle on their
simimits

branch

come

the

forth, the

phenomena of

kindling their

fire-flies,

alternately

lamps, are

seen twinkling on

every

opening and shutting their phosphoric lustre; the stars

" poetry of heaven," and the scene

enriched with

is

all

the

a transalpine twiUght.

"

Night's shadows span the vale

and beaming

With all its host of stars, the tranquil blue

Of ether slumbers. Field and flower are teeming
With summer's balm, and bright with falling dew.
Streams warble melody

the air

is

gleaming

With winged and fiery spangles strange to view

From every leaf electric sparks are glancing
Where,

swift, the fire-flies' twinkling troop are

dancing

And

faithful to the hour as stars that muster

In nightly phalanx round heaven's shining campBeneath yon palm, bright with unborrowed lustre,
The glow-worm kindles her connubial lamp

Love's mimic cynosure

After a survey of

its

scenery, and the associations to which this district of the

Valleys gives immediate

concludes the picture

'."*

rise, it is

thus that the native historian, already quoted,

" Voila quel est Bobi

riche de grandes et profondes

pensees que la nature formale sous ces masses sauvages, de tendres et pieux

sentimens que respirent ces bois

tentures

de prairies

ces retraites

fleuris,

suspendues entre

I'Eternel ouvre sans cesse a nos regards,

simple education de nos aieux!

et

En

tout chez eux etait fraternite.

et

Tel est

dans lequel se

tout dans le

effet,

Ces

parfamees, ces riantes

hauteurs.

les

bois,

monde

ces fleuves,

le

Uvre que

faisait si

est

bien la

harmonic,

ces montagnes,

la

nioindre feuille et le plus petit caillou sont autant de symboles sous lesquels se

mi sens profond que

cachent, pour nous,

1

ame peut

le

langage n'exprime pas, mais que

Malheur a ceux pour qui la nature, comme I'Evangile, n'est

morte
Ce que nous voyons du monde physique, nous revelerait

saisir.

qu'une lettre

it was necessary that some

From
means should be had recourse to for directing the rambler to his sedentary mate. What more beautiful, and
at the same time more efiicient g;uide could possibly have been imagined than this self-lighted hymeneal
torch \See a descriptive poem by the author, entitled " The Heliotrope ; or Pilgrim in pursuit of Health."

the circumstance of the male being a winged insect and the female not,

SCENERY.
ce que nous

eommes dans

comme

supreme,

Among

HISTORICAL

RECOLLECTIONS.

au

la fleur tient

soleil

elle

35

L'ame

I'univers des intelligences.

en re9oit la \ie

\"

other celebrated and beautiful localities in this neighbourhood,

the Grove, or " Bosquet des Courtils."

so

" Grotte-des-fantines"

rises the

At

from

called

The

peopled these romantic solitudes.

split

through the middle, covered with

of small

by gentle

fields rising

of BelsiUe, the

wood

its

being the favourite haunt

mantling

ivy, vines

its

Bteween Courtils

cession of rich

Taking the

of Courtils extends as far as Gorgia

to the village of

meadows waving

Bobi, the interval

like a sea of emerald,

On

on the

is filled

with a suc-

and only divided from one

and masses of dark, whitish,

tops of which the peasant spreads his

level

thrashing-floor, like an eagle's nest

gloomy

directs its foaming

the other side, an undulating soil rises

in the midst of chestnut-trees, old as those of Sicily,

rocks,

ages have

summit, and a row

stages above one another in front.

another by long stripes of willows.

or moss-covered

pjist

immense rock,

grotto consists of an

and romantic ravine, through which the impetuous Subiasque

course.

is

the entrance to this classic spot

of those playful spirits with which the poeti'v and superstition of

name

a I'Etre

tient

on

native

its

Others again, standing,

cliif.

or strewn around in every possible shape and variety, recall " the days of the

Druids,"

when such were chosen

their altars.

for

little

higher up, long

patches of vines are seen scaling the rocks, like troops mounting to the assaidt

of some ancient fortress.

violent

Above

mountain scenery terminates

these, the

commotion by which they have been shaken and dislodged,

subsiding struggles to which our earth has been exposed.

rocks project forward, as

if

ready to

slip

from their base

like towers flanking the embattled walls of

there an open space

breach in

its

occasioned

is

or,

by

some feudal

falling

in the

In some places the

;

in otliers they rise

castle,

rocks, or land-slip

with here and

like

wide

ramparts.

But we return from

to one or

nothing but a chaos of rocky escarpments, indicating the

presents

at least,

this digression,

more of those

identified.

and

shall

now

confine our observations

particular facts in history witli which the

In 1561, having received intelligence that Francis

I.

commune
had died

on the 5th of December preceding, the Waldenses dispatched deputies by way

of Bobi to meet those of the Val-Clusone, then belonging to France, in order
to

renew the ancient league of mutual support which had been so long perpe-

tuated from father to son, between the Valleys of Piedmont and Daupliiny.*
Ills

pour

la religion, afin

de

la

les autres

mutuellement

et

de tout

leiir

pouvoir, en toute occasion do per5<!cutioii

maintenir pure et entiere panni eux aveo toutes ses dependences, scion

aaiste et I'usiige de la vraie Egliac ancienne apostolique, sans prejudice de la fidilit

tivement a sea legitimes superiours." fJi/fes, chap.

xxii.

Afuslmi,

liv.

i.

p.

,58.

I'icrituru

qucchacun dcvoit

respcc-

THE WALDENSES.

36

On

the 21st of January, the deputation, with that of Clusone, ha\'ing returned

in the midst of frightful snow-storms across the Col-Julien, arrived the same

But scarcely was their

when they were surroimded by an anxious and excited

evening at Puy, three quarters of a league from Bobi.

return announced,

crowd, and informed that an edict had just been published, by which

all

the

heads of families were commanded to appear next morning before a council

of war, in order that the government might ascertain " Whether they would,

would

or

attend

not,

They were

mass."

further

their offence in the galleys, or burnt at the stake

certified,

should be

refused to apostatize, and embrace Catholicism,

that

met the deputies

as they

to

aU who
expiate

and that now they had only

Such was the appalhng

the interval of one night left to choose the alternative.

tidings

that

sent

approached their devoted homes and

kindred.

The moment was one

and

step

their first

devotion.

Tliis done,

was impossible

that

demanded great

fortitude

they declared that

To abjure the religion of

that to provide for their

at so inclement a season;

security

by

they resolved to stand on their defence, and,

vidual

present.

if

Under

these circumstances,
to die in support

This magnanimous resolution was seconded by every indiRaising

hands

their

to

heaven, they solemnly engaged to

continue in the exercise of their religious duties, and

own

their fathers

was impracticable

need should be,

following day at mass, as they had been coirunanded

in their

flight,

and that they had no means of protecting so many

families without openly resisting the government.

of their religion.

and prompt decision

was to implore the Divine direction by an act of public

place of worsliip.

morning found them

at their

Tliis

instead of appearing the

to assemble,

they carried into

effect,

as heretofore,

and the next

accustomed devotions in the temple of Bobi.

After service, they proceeded to face the enemy,

whom

this

public act of

disobedience to a despotic edict, had armed with additional vengeance.

strong in the justice of their cause, they met, and drove them
citadel of Villar, which, after a siege

Above Puy, where

this act of

of ten days, was forced to capitulate.

mingled piety and heroism was achieved,

immense

the ruined Castle of Sibaud, planted on an

pastures, on the verge of

It

is

rock, covered with rich

which trees and shrubs mask vnth thick

deep chasm that yawns between.

Doubly

back to the

foliage the

was here that the troops, sent against the

persecuted natives, but imacquainted with the perilous footpaths which led to
the station, were precipitated over the rocks, and perished in their expedition.
It

was here,

too, that, in 1690, the expatriated

the intrepid Arnaud, entered into a solemn

remnant who had returned under

vow

to

be true to one another

LA SARCENA.
surrender and

never to

MIKABOLC.

LAUS.

37

their last drop of blood in defence of tlicir

This solemn engagement pronomiccd, they ratified the

and then descending the heights, prepared for battle.

religion

and liberty!

deed by

iiniting in prayer;

On

expend

to

mountain

this side of the

is

the too famous locality,

named La

Sarcena,

where the persecution of the Waldenses, as narrated by the historian Leger,

was marked by cruelties* the mere narration of which strikes horror into the
was one of the chief posts of defence belonging to the Waldenses.
recorded by Arnaud, was found the journal kept by Peter Reynaudin
during the expedition, and to which tliat of Arnaud is indebted for several
Leaving his academic studies at Bale to share in the
interesting particulars.

heart.

It

Here,

as

perilous enterprise, in which the

band of

exiles

had embarked, Reynaudin had

the happiness to witness their restoration, and was afterwards pastor of Bobi,
his native nllage.

The breakwater,

built here to check those fearful inundations

which have so often deluged the

village hearths, destroyed

the seeds of famine and disease into the valley,

hmnan

is still

from the Felice,

life,

and carried

monument

a noble

of

the foreign sympathy expressed towards the Waldenses, while under the pressure
On the other side of the
of great physical, as well as political sufferings.
torrent,
its hill

at

the end of the

meadows

of Lanvers, the village of

covered with cytisus and blossomed broom.

for the salubrity of its climate,

and producing, in

tants,

wholesome

their

season,

trees,

Laus

village is

and the consequent longevity of

surrounded by magnificent chestnut

It is

The

its

displays

remarkable

inhabitauts.f

older than the oldest inhabi-

no inconsiderable return

to

them

in

fruit:
Cjstaneasque nuces,

mea quas

Amaryllis amabat.

the opposite bank of the river, and nearly facing this hiO, rise others
of a more rugged and precipitous aspect, on the top of which are the traces

On

This
of some ancient place of strength, called by the inhabitants Lou Castel.
here
valley, leading to Ferriere, presents a succession of grotesque rocks,

and there mantled over with moss, shivered by lightning, or scattered aroimd
in blocks of immense size the " fragments of an earlier world."]:

Des femmos dventr^es

et convulsives furent laissefa agonisantes sur Ics neiges, et leiire eiifans jetf s

en

liv. i. p. (12. Leger, reredcution de 1655.

and the other
years ago two matrons died in the course of the same week, one at the age of ninety-three,
'
Tims," says M. Muston, " poor as the village is, the inhabitants live longer and
at one hundred and four.
spontaneous gifts of nature,
perhaps happier than those who spend their days in palaces." They enjoy, as the
peace of mind.
and as the reward of their temperance, what wealth cannot purchasehealth of body, and
* The upper part of the Val Pelice is very wild. The torrent exhibits iteelf in true churac'ter, and oftfrs
spot called La Pauee des MorU, where funerals arc
niilny striking points of view, especially at a romantic

vie par les rochers '.J/uj/on,

t Ten

THE WALDENSES.

S8

Continuing our steps in the same direction, we reach the ruined Fort of
Built by Castrocaro, and reduced, in 1593,

Mirabouc.

by Lesdiguieres, it was
by the Duke of Savoy, who, on his return from the

retaken, three years after,

expedition, received a deputation of Vaudois in the square at Villar, and, in the

presence of his whole court, promised to watch over them, " not only as a

good king, but

The

as a father."

position of this fort

subject which Salvator might

But

the scene of his wildest poem.

is

dreary, but picturesque

have chosen for his pencil, or Schiller

for

neither the mountains of Abruzzi, nor

the recesses of the Black Forest, present any single featm-e to be compared
%vith

Mirabouc, which seems as

could force

but
at

impregnable

itself

stood in gloomy solitude, ban-ing the pas-

if it

Holding a key which no amount of numerical

sage to another world.

by nature

uncommanded,

save

by

commanding

inaccessible heights

and sweep destruction upon liim from

every foe,

the strength of a fortress

is

within the walls, no fortress

it

could fro%vn defiance

it

where treason

In the early part of the revolutionary war, a French detachment

mouth

by a brawling

blocks up the path, and

Mirabouc.

The guns,

pass; and, as the only

traverses

hevra

summons

sent

them

however, were mute

defile,

on

its

which

is

and a steep, dangerous path.

having
almost

At

the

feet perpendicular,

impregnable apex stood the watch-tower of

bristling over its battlements, completely enfiladed the

means of

the

in

torrent,

huge insulated rock, three hundred

of this gorge, a

is

tenable.

passed the Col-de-la-Croix, descended by this narrow

entirely occupied

But

battlements.

its

in the hearts that guard

is

strengtli

every avenue of approach

scaling the rock

the

precipice,

to surrender,

had

garrison
its

was by a succession of
might have

principles

stair-

smiled at

been staunch.

The

the

guns,

the commander, either struck with sudden and groundless

more probable, corrupted' by French gold, pretended that
the place was untenable, and surrendered without sti-iking a blow.
Of the
soldiers under his command, one
the only Vaudois in the fort
protested
against tliis 'cowardly betrayal of his country's honour.
Wlien brought before
terror, or,

what

is

a court-martial, the
officer

eddence of

this gallant individual

found guilty and condemned.

was conclusive, and the

In acknowledgment of his meritorious

accustomed to lialt. Near this is the cascade of Miraliniic, and a few steps farther on, another, called the
Madalena, overhangs the road, and doses the basin of Pra, in which are the last habitations of the Valley.
In the bottom of this immense basin lies concealed the lake of Marconseil, one of the sources of the Pelicc.

On

the right are the Col-de-la-Croix and the Col-de-la- Vitouna, which

communicate with France; and on

may be seen the most horror-striking precipices within tlic circuit

leads into the Val-Guichard, passing to the Alp-de-la-Roussa, and thence to tlie Coldu-Pis and the SeK-Bianca, at the foot of Mount Almanzor.
the left the Col-Baraud, from which
of the Alps.

The road

SURRENDER OF PORT MIRAROUC.

conduct, the Vaudois

soldier

Popular prejudice, however,

promoted.

gj)

was complimented by the

court,

and instantly

ran so high, that, when the sur-

still

render of this important post was announced, the fact was instantly construed

on the part of the Vaudois, although, as

into an act of treachery

on the

single voice protested against

its

else

and

was a

this

:"

if it

the Valleys.

which the grossest

of sanctity

made

in

is

injustice

a melancholy instance of

was masked under an

air

where reason was completely blinded by prejudice, and even murder

assume the garb of merit.

to

Having purposely omitted the

here introduce

it

under

The

Fort Mirabouc.

fact

in our brief notice of

La Tour, we

shall

proper head, as originating in the surrender of

its

\illages

marked

for destruction,

and

St. John, the effective population of

the

frontier.

defenceless

was

it

another " St. Bartholomew"

why

This fact

should be enacted in
fanaticism,

was not he, or some Vaudois,

sufficient reason

modern
itself

was proved

The argument, however, adduced,

surrender.

was that of " the wolf and the lamb

some one

it

only one of that community was in the fort at the time, whose

trial,

were those of La Tour

which had been drained away to protect

Thus, unconscious of danger

and,

where danger threatened the aged and

even

infirm,

had they known,

women and

children,

presented a fitting occasion for the exercise of one of the most cold-blooded
plots ever devised

The

fifteenth

by demons
of

May

for the destruction of innocence.

was the night fixed

various points,

on which their atrocious design was to

convent of Recollets, and

rendezvous

for

the

celebration

of

the

For two days previously, strangers were observed arriving from

and concentrating their strength in the vicinity of those places

dreadful orgies.

many

fall

with exterminating violence.

The

of the houses in Luzern, were the chief points of

and here the conspirators assembled

to the

amount of seven hundred

On the morning of the fifteenth, their design was avowed; the

watchword passed, and already they exulted in the completion of their atrocious
or upwards.

But, in the midst of their anticipated crime, the report reached the ear

purpose.
of the

Roman Catholic

cure of Luzern,

M.

Brianza, at the confessional.

Horror-

struck at the enormity of the guilt to which these fanatics the professors of his

own

faith

had devoted themselves, this good

man, with a zeal and intrepidity

which would have done honour to a Leger, hastened

victims,

and thereby

personal efforts.

defeat,

Messengers arrived at nearly the same instant

the village of St. John.

also a

Roman

took a part.

to warn the unsuspecting

by timely alarm, what he could not check by any

Catholic,

at Latour,

and

conference was instantly held, in which Capt. Odetti,

and equally zealous as Brianza to

foil

the assassins,

This gallant soldier had been solicited to join in the conspiracy.

"

THE WALDENSES.

but shrunk back from the revolting proposal with that indignation which

all

whom the dictates of religion, and the laws of humanity and honour
" No !" said he, " the sword I have liitherto carried, is for the
are dear.
and, if it must be drawn,
defence, not for the destruction of my fellow-citizens
must

feel, to

The blood of the innocent shall

never stain its blade. But tliis is not a moment for quiet deliberation we
must act the mine is ready to explode and those who should defend their
own families, are protecting ours on the frontier. Shame to my infatuated
comitrymen! maniacs, who repay their intrepid defenders, by devoting their
its

edge shaU be turned against the assassin.

to destruction

fanailies

absent

must not

It

be blackened with
to apprize

and doors

tliis

retire the

ye are, to stem the

may be

well

and

ravage the

my body in

indelible stigma

upon

fold while

the gap ere

honour.

its

the shepherd

my

wave

children

But we must hasten

barricade the
and be prepared, few and feeble

ye best may.

as

who wiU

believe such tidings

streets

speedy succour

If

but,

is

comiti-y's annals

pray for instant succour

women and

first

yet,

that

wiU lay

commandant

the

wolves,

be.

as

arrive, all

otherwise, nothing

if

but a miracle can deliver you.

In this state of suspense, messengers followed one another in rapid succession
to

General Godin, who commanded the

Himself a generous Swiss

in vain.

their

supplication:

women and
up by the

" A

he lent only an incredulous ear to

mere panic," he

own

"because, forsooth, a few

said;

children have been frightened into

force of their

But these expresses pleaded

district.

soldier,

fits

by some phantom

called

imaginations, they must needs have their fathers,

No!

and husbands, and brothers to desert their post, and conjure the ghost.

on a frontier have other duties

if it be a case for exorcism, send
" Nay, general," said the messenger, vvdth great solemnity of
for the priest."
"
manner,
it is a
case for exorcism, but one in which physical strength,
soldiers

not spiritual incantation, must

mand

As

be employed.

surely as you hold com-

in this camp, so surely will the Protestant subjects of

\'ictims

sanguinary

to

" Himian nature

the general.
it

unless

on

the

eve

when

Sicilian

Castrocaro

will not hear

it is

actions of gi'eat
to

"True,"

gi-eat

His Majesty

interposition,

fall

or

"Impossible!"

said

much

said the messenger,

men from

on

the eve of St.

Pianezza when De

la

" these are matters which

not youj business to question,

men."

warn

Vespers

when

" Stop," said the general sternly

Trinite "

my business

immediate

not so utterly depraved!"

is

was thought on the eve of the

Bartholomew

your

from Heaven, obviate the catastrophe."

direct miracle

" So

plot,

less

to criticise,

finnly " true;

following pernicious examples.

but

the
it is

In a word,

THE LATE CONSPIRACY.

this

at

moment

liistory of that

when

to the voice

of

continued

Nay,"

the

trembling suspense

the

" does

the

messenger,

of which you yourself are a

furnish

no

instance

of

free citizen

similar

do

the

What had

plots?

of Helvetian liberty,

advocates

the unsuspecting

if on

that dark

band of assassins were ready to sally forth from theiiby the lake of Lucern the magistrate had turned a deaf ear
If on the night of Entlibuch
of
that told him of danger V
the

lurking-place

Brug

Confederacy

Switzerland

annals of
befallen

night

Godin.

await in

thousands

of

lives

tlie

of General

decision

41

'

Rheinfelden

that the danger

is

but

need not multiply instances

only repeat

imminent, and cannot be averted unless by the strong arm

of government."

Godin fixed
design

his eyes steadily

general turned aside, as

the

on the speaker, as

fact.

and those

some

sinister

staggered in his resolution, yet unwilling to betray

if

His humanity, his honour as a

soldier,

his duty to the sovereign,

doubts of which he could not entirely divest himself, were

But how was he

struggling for the mastery.

or even knowledge of the govermnent

illegal

detect

if to

but the Vaudois, meeting his glance with an imflinching look, the

assembling he

and

march without the

to

that, too, against subjects of

the horn- was already at hand

whose

There was no time,

had no authentic information ?

neither, for reconnoitring

all

sanction,

and, before even

its

existence could be proved, the mine might explode.

At

this

moment

critical

the

sixteenth courier arrived.

more emphatic than the

last.

The day was

The same

general, but in terms

of conspiracy and massacre was laid before the

fast

story
still

waning, and a night of

unfeigned terror descending upon the Valleys.

storm, also, which had been collecting for several hows,

with great violence

and, as

if to

now

burst forth

abet the destruction meditated by the hand

of man, struck additional terrors into the hearts of the distracted inhabitants.
" Now," they said, " no assistance can reach us no troops can march under
;

accumulated impediments of storm and darkness! but these are both

favoui-able to those who seek our lives, and the hour is at hand when these
the

hearths must be stained with the blood of our children. Hark, the signal ! the
O that our husbands our sons
vesper bell from the convent of RecoUets
!

our brothers were here!"

Such were the

frantic ejaculations that passed

from

lip to lip.

In every thunder-crash that burst over their heads in every gust that groaned
through the lofty chestnuts they heard the precipitate steps of the murderers,
and, in the checquered lightnings, saw the glance of the assassins' steel Y/hen
!

THE WALDENSES.

42
strongly excited, the

now

plexion; and

mind invested

which hope had maintained against terror was

The hour,
the signal

had passed

The grouping

watch.

own com-

its

frontier, the severe conflict

subsiding into

fast

whom

of

women and

that

expression to

it

in others

power of speech in some, while

are

torpor into

spirits

their

and that inexpressible sense of impending

words, vacant looks,

destruction wliich crushed the

their

who kept

aroimd the sick and aged

children

they could not remove, and would not desert

which the certainty of death had plunged their previously excited

inarticulate

despair.

the assassins were to cross the ri^er had arrived

and the next might see them on the threshold of

This fearful apprehension, too, was strengthened by those

victims.

those

too, at wliich

hues of

evei-y object in the

no tidings arrived from the

that

circumstances on which

they are only to be understood by those

and

those,

it is

it

gave violent

we need not

dwell

hoped, are few

who

have passed so dreadful an ordeal.

Through

this terrible storm,

however, which the diabolical machinations of

man had armed

with tenfold terror, unexpected light burst upon the devoted

messenger, in breathless haste, announced that troops were

inhabitants.

Godin, though

hastening to their aid.

of the responsibilities attached to his

incredulous of the

still

office,

of the Vaudois, had reluctantly consented.

fact,

and aware

yet overcome by the supplications

A detachment was

in a forced march, followed in the track of the last courier.

ordered out, and,

In a few minutes

the Vaudois portion was far ahead of their comrades, and rushed on to the
defence of

all

that

was dearest

to

them.

continued dread of reaching the scene too

encouragement met them in the darkness.

Their
late,

were redoubled by the

efforts

while voices of sujjplication and

The

roads, rendered impassable

the torrents, offered the greatest obstacles to their advance

by

but, with an ardour

that smiled at impossibilities, they plunged into the stream, scaled precipices,

descended ravines, and, bounding fi'om rock to rock, struggled forward vnth a
sj)eed

and determination which nothing could abate. The darkness, imless when

relieved

by the frequent lightnings that flashed around, was intense

the

glare they discovered the familiar landmarks of

fitful

in their progress

doomed Valley before daybreak.

the storm, reached the

spot where

all

had

left

some

ties to

proof that the massacre had taken place.

nor the

to read

murmur

But

of voices struck the ear.

the tidings of death

the

terrific

but in

thus, guided

character to

As they neared

that

hallow the domestic hearth, their hearts

beat quick, and each looked wildly around him as

feet,

home, and

by that very element which gave a more

all

if

he expected to fuid some

was
In

still

this

consummation of

neither the

stillness

their

stir

of

they seemed

worst fears; and

43

THE PLOT DEFEATED.

the arms that were
helplessly

by

their

ah'cacly lifted for the defence of their dearest

may be

This

side.

easily explained;

for

ties,

sank

having been

expected at a different point, thither all who could, had directed their steps
and thus their intrepid, and now ahnost exhausted deliverers were exposed to
a most painful

an instant

in

trial.

But the news " They are come

and a timaultuous welcome

encumbered them with

On

caresses, told

that

all

we need not here

the scene that followed

rators

them

fi-om

they are come

wives and

was yet

dilate.

!"

spread

childi-en,

who

safe

The band

of conspi-

started on their expedition at the sound of the vesper bell

who had

a sound sufficiently ominous

historywere impeded by two causes: the fuiy

Overtaken by the first

of the tempest, and the report of advancing troops.

of these,

On

many

of their accomplices had been unable to reach their destination.

that account the general muster

who were akeady on the

nio-ht, and their own probable
those

fell

number expected, while

by the dreadful aspect of the

short of the

spot, intimidated

rencontre with the troops, hesitated; and, at

length, struck with a guilty panic, abandoned the horrid enterprise, and fled
in every direction.

Much to the honour of the Vaudois, not an arm was lifted against those
who had meditated their destruction although many were now in their power.
To the laws of their country alone they looked for redress. The names of
the conspirators being ascertained, a list, amoimting to eight hundi-ed, with
the necessary evidence, was placed in the hands of the government, but no
General Godin, though not publicly
legal proceedings were ever instituted.

censured for the part he had taken, was privately superseded in his command,
and shortly after dismissed from the service facts which clearly demonstrate

the
their

mifortunate

policy

investigation

feelings of disgust

of a

by which the
plot, to

and abhorrence.

which

existing
it

is

authorities

impossible

to

were actuated in
advert

without

WALDENSES,

VALLEYS OF RORA AND ANGROGNE.

'Un
t

prestige indefinissable airete le voyageur en face de ses vieilles montapies, que

de persecutions

Before taking leave of the Val-Pelice, and crossing the mountain to Rora,
we shall here introduce an anecdote highly illustrative of those practical virtues
which form the distinguishing

features in the

Waldensian character.

While the late revolutionary war spread terror and desolation in the Valleys,
the wounded on both sides were treated with the most exemplary hiunanity by

When the French, after an ineffectual struggle to maintain their

newly acquired ascendency, were compelled to retire before the combined forces
of Russia and Austria, three hundred of their sick and disabled were left in Bobi
and the neighbourhood. To minister to the necessities of such a body of men,

the Vaudois.

even under the most favourable circumstances, would have been ruinous to so
small a community but, when rendered helpless by woimds, or exhausted by
;

sickness,

the burden was doubly oppressive to the inhabitants, whose

hmnanity

exceeded their humble means.

far

whom

assiduously attended, fed, and consoled by the very people

was calculated

to oppress.

of their injuries

others,

Many were

active

For a time, the wounded were

their expedition

incapable of exertion from the nature

though recovering, had only a distant prospect of being

enabled to quit the hospitable roof and join the army.

The

reverses of the

campaign had crippled the resources to which, under more favourable

circmnstances, they would have looked for aid but still, for this wreck of
a great army, an asylum was thrown open in the midst of those who, lately

last

formidable as enemies, were

But the exercise of

now

this charity

as it involved privations

their only friends.

became every day more

It took " the children's bread

to obviate.

difficult, in

and gave

it

to strangers

the horrors of a long winter, rendered doubly miwelcome

of scarcity,

But how
increasing

if

proportion

which the already impoverished natives had no means

;"

and thus

by the prospect

not actual famine, became the subject of daOy conversation.

to better their circumstances

demands upon

how

to extricate themselves

their slender resources

how

from the

to reconcile the dictates

of humanity towards the unfortunate, with the imperative calls of duty towards

45

WALDENSIAN CHARITY.

own families, was a question that weighed heavily on their hearts.

Without a miracle, the " cruise of oil and the barrel of meal " must soon fail,
and the host and his guest prepare to see the gaunt spectre of famine

their

cross the threshold.

The

None

question, though often agitated, remained unanswered.

gest an expedient

remained
" has committed these unfortunate

sacrificing the little that

men

our care

to

Our

become the source of

distress

and by

not appear that

let it

rated from them, by neglecting to evince our gratitude at

gratitude cannot be better e\-inced than in ministering, as
rather the

That we should deviate

Christians,
stalled

God

to satisfy the

exliausted, to

A stranger

'

give us a

of

life

forbid

we have

'

discharge

fathers were strangers in foreign lands,

strangers were consoled and cherished

nay,

we

and, while

of consolation into their wounds,

oil

will not suifer the exercise of a christian virtue to

to us and our families.

" Providence," said they,

for themselves,

the duty of good Samaritans, and pour the

the fate of war

could sug-

by whicli the unhappy prisoners might be supplied, without

fiat

Heaven

of

has

we

we have degenea time when our

liberally stretched out ovu-

whose garner can we apply

hands so long as we had wherewith

for reinforcement

provision to ourselves, can

and without friends

who

It is not a question of profit or loss,

'

That which, even in our richest harvest,

suffice

to aid, or

store is

When we

has arrived, and I have nothing to set before him,'

loaf of bread

care.

from the line of conduct prescribed to us as

But," continued the speaker, " our resources are fore-

in aught

demands of necessity; and now, that our own slender

or death.

whom

do, to those

committed to our

say,

will arise to

but a question

affords

but a scanty

but a short time for three hundred guests;

money

to purchase the necessary supplies,

what

are our prospects?"

"

Our

prospects," said an aged Vaudois, " have been worse.

under circumstances to which our own seem prosperous

hard battles while their shelter was the cave
the fallen chestnuts

or

and continued watchings

all

out fear.

Let us

these himger, and

they endured with

what they had undertaken

events would enable

them

as

faithfidly

remember them that

fathers

many

food the winter berry

An

perform what

are in bonds,

as

thirst,

and

fatigue,

and

cold,

a fuU and entire confidence that

commanded

to support.

believers in his overruling providence,

'

Our

to fight

the scattered ears of corn which they gathered from a

Yet

deep layer of snow.

their

had

duty, the supreme Director of

entire
is

God

casteth

us, as

humble

confidence in

incumbent upon

and calmly abide the

bound with them

suffer adversity, as being ourselves also in the body.'"

residt.

Let us

^and them which

THE WALDENSES.

46

" The burden of which we complain," said a third, " is not to be thrown ofT
but with dishonour, and a dereliction of those sacred duties of which, in our
daily prayers,

we ought
men who
been such

we

all

to pursue,

To know more fully the course

moment exchange situations with the brave

confess the obligation.

let

us for a

claim our sympathy, and then consider, whether our conduct has
as we should have expected from them, under like circumstances."

" No," said another individual present, " we will not alter our line of conduct
the friendless shall ever find us friends, and the voice of humanity an easy

We

who have suifered afflictions, have learned, at least,

Our scanty means, indeed, may be reduced,
even exhausted but, even with this fearful prospect before us, the memory
the bread now given to
a good action will soften the rigour of famine, and

avenue to our hearts.

to

or

of

sympathize with the

afflicted.

from heaven."
the stranger within our gates, bring us a recompense
" But, in another month, when the means of support will have failed, and
ourselves must look to distant provinces for relief, how," inquired a former
how shall we provide for the
speaker, with very pardonable apprehension,"
The wild chestnut and of that only a scanty
helpless of our own community?

we

!"
supply is our only resource
" 1 admit," said Rostaing, " that

all

if

things to the relief of the

we employ

it

of retaining

in a different

to their native country?

it is fully

wounded but

The

incumbent upon us

it will

to minister in

be no diminution of our charity

channel. Why not restore the whole detachment

charity of so doing would be

still

greater than that

them here; and by adopting the former expedient, we should

serve

without incurring ruin to ourselves." All eyes were turned to

the hearty interest he felt in the
the speaker, who, in look and manner, evinced
concern; he was one of those who might have served under the glorious Arnaud.

these brave

men

" Restore them

veyance

!"

wthout

they exclaimed

" but

how ?

wagon

horse, or mule, or

Without any means of con-

How

transport three hundred

?"
" Yes,"
over inhospitable mountains deep snows imminent dangers
resumed the pastor, " we can we must restore them to their own fi-ontier. True,

men

purpose the means that attend upon a great army; but

we have not for this

we have resolution, and, once

resolved, expedients will offer.

Summon

to

the

good cause the strength of the Valley employ every hand in the construction
of litters: on these lay the sick and disabled, well protected from the cold,
;

and our own fortitude will accomplish the

the march.
vrill offer little impediment to

rest.

The

Those already convalescent,

col,

though terrible at

this

Remember
season to the timid, has nothing to appal us in so sacred a duty.
that the God who carried our ancestors across the dreadful Alps, and again

EXTRAORDINARY ENTERPRISE.

47
His

brought them back, will stiU be the watchful guardian of their children.

arm

Resolve,

not weakened that he cannot help.

is

one alternative

and

my

There

but

is

on the manner in which we decide, the lives of many will

A murmur of approbation passed upward to the speaker,

this night

depend."

and then,

in one simultaneous voice, they answered, "

now hastened

Every one

brethren

foi-ward

to

the

We

are resolved

The

enterprise.

!"

languishing

were infonned that they should very shortly behold their native France, and
be received in the forts of Brian9on

but when they perceived no

means

visible

was

for the accomplishment, they relapsed into despondence, thinking that this

only another of the

But, at length,

litters

by which

efforts,

their kind-hearted entertainers sought

minds from the depressing circumstances in which they were

to distract their

placed.

when
warm

many

when

the whole effective population

was assembled,

were brought to every door, with willing hands

covering to protect them, they were

moved

to tears,

whom

journey by invoking blessings upon the place and people, among

Some were borne

experienced more than fraternal sympathy.

men, and others carried on the shoulders of individuals

citated,

by

their

wounds

men

slept in

its

woimded, taking a

look of

everlasting snows which

stages

every

consecrated as

the

march.

abode of good

and the

and

sick

hospitable asylum, turned their faces to those

its

even a

first

who took

alleviate the fatigues of the

sweet seclusion, at length disappeared;

last

by two

while those less incapa-

or weakness, to support the fatigues of the

long

they had

in litters

of the dreary road, walked between their generous guides,

method to cheer their hearts, and

The tranquil valley where Bobi

and

bear,

to

and commenced their

Roman

army, in the pride of

its

conquests,

viewed with dismay.

Well assured of the

they must encomiter,

difficulties

must endure, the Waldenses were prepared

frowning rock, nor the foaming cataract
cipice

arrested their

steps, or

as these awful features of

drew

for

frozen

their looks

Nature flashed at

the hardsliips they

the enterprise.

at this

moment

intervals

upon the

Neither the

into an icy pre-

from the business

in hand.

But

prisoner's eyes,

a sleepy horror crept through his blood, and a death, more dreadful than that

which had spared him on the

every step.

The very

was appalling; the

the
that
is

fitful

murmur
met

huge

of the distant thunder,

his ear.

But

now sounded

which at intervals shook

breeze,

thick crust of snow, the clang of

its

of battle,

field

his

requiem

at

silence of Nature, as occurring in the region of storms,

silence in the

like the silence that attends the

icicles

from the pine

dropping from the rocks, and

scarcely audible, were the only sounds

Alps has usually

its

prospective terrors

mustering of troops for

battle.

it

Every rock

THE WALDENSES.

48
seemed

to conceal

its

ambuscade

and the sky, into which the snowy pinnacles

its freezing influence around

of the Cottian range shot up their ridgy crests, shed

It

the travellers.

difficulty that the

was with the greatest

wounded were enabled

shake off that treacherous slumber, the indulgence of which

to

which overpowered the

feeling

tain of Sci,

by

\'ictorious

is

That

death.

Vaudois in their ascent of the moun-

The rugged

was strongly manifested in the Col-de-la-Croix.

path,

frequent doublings along the verge of precipices, under the shadow of

its

impending rocks, and in many places admitting the travellers only one by one,
presented difficulties to surmount, and dangers to encounter, which only those
who have pursued the same track from Piedmont to Dauphiny, can imagine.

As

the long

in the

file

of wearied peasants each supporting some war-broken guest

manner described

wound

across the western flank,

mass of pines that bristled over an ice-clad precipice, the

fi-ontier

and through a dense

first

glimpse of the

brought animation to their hearts, and a shout of welcome and con-

gratulation passed along the

The

file.

his mutilated limb

wounded waved

with the shout of " Vive

la

sick looked

and

France

the feeble

first

sight of

home.

Patrie

!"

and

There was a charm

several minutes, as if unable to proceed.

a fascination in the

ma

Vive

up to bless the sight the

moved his lips in \mison
they halted for
in the

sound

For, although they had not returned

they bore honourable wounds, and with the rekindling ardour

as conquerors,

of soldiers, talked of those victories that were yet in the lap of futurity

The scene was of a description that vnll never again be seen on the Col-de-laCroix.
At length, when the bugles, answering each other from the forts of
Brian9on, brought the well-known

air

and

its

martial associations to his ear,

the disabled soldier, starting like a war-horse at the sound, stood erect, and
forgetting the cruel fate that

the

note,

had curtailed him of

his fair proportions, caught

and in concord sang the " Glory of war."

All

appeared more

and the word of mutual encouragement passed rapidly from

van to rear. Those who, till now, had remained as if unconscious of all but
the pain they endured, and the dreary scene through which they were passing,
or less inspired

caught the infection, and gave free vent to those feelings known only to him

who

has been pining in hopeless exile.

Wives, and children, and parents, and

brothers, and sisters, and old companions in arms, advanced to

But

meet the wounded.

the changed looks, the emaciated features, and mutilated limbs,

nition often painful

none to reply!

The

made

recog-

while many, to their anxious inquiries after kinsmen, found

Their

bones "lay bleaching in the

soldiers, pointing to their deliverers,

were

fields

of Piedmont."

liberal in their

upon the Vaudois, who they aflirmed had not only given them

encomiums
shelter

and

THE COMMUNE OF RORA.

succour in the hour of greatest need, but had undertaken on their behalf a

journey from which the boldest might have shrunk back appalled. Those, then,
were the people whom prejudice had branded as heretics, anathematized as " a
" If there be," said some,
progeny of Satan," and lo, their works of charity
!

" any merit in good works, here

it is

" But what a

in the highest degree."

should obstinately renounce those catholic principles by

which alone our admiration should be regulated!" This was the language of
fanaticism; yet the general acclamation in which it was drowned made ample

pity that such

men

But the most flattering testimony in their favour was, that Suchet,
struck with admiration of such daring and disinterested conduct in behalf of
" order of the day," in which he
his disabled troops, made it the subject of an
amends.

did justice to their intrepid deliverers.*

The Waldenses, having now accomplished

their faces once

to the snows

more

this

most meritorious work, turned

but, as they slowly retraced their way, the

this act of benevolence might bring destruction upon

The remembrance of a
weighed heavily upon their hearts.
every
o-ood deed, however, was balm to their spirits, and braced them for
consequence that might ensue the proof was at hand.

apprehension that even

families,

their

The government,

instead

humanity, prepared to

visit

of

applauding this

almost

unparalleled

the authors with unmerited severity.

act of

Such an

act,

No it
they affirmed, could not be the spontaneous result of mere charity.
was a convincing proof of disaffection to their natural liege, and of partiality
Their loyalty, however,
to the enemy; and the Vaudois must be punished.
of
was based on a foundation which could not be shaken by any thing short
recorded in their
as loyal subjects, they had the royal testimony
;

facts

and

strength,

this
Prejudice, nevertheless, was strong, and in proportion to
were branded as the avowed
reason was weak, and, for a tune, the Vaudois
and by representaenemies of the state. But, under the protection of Heaven,
own part, and continued intercession on that of their friends,

favour.f

tions

on their

absolved from a charge

proceedings were at length suspended, and the Vaudois
of which not a shadow of probability existed.

The commune

of Rora, to which

we now

direct our steps,

is

justly entitled

So long the asylum of a virtuous

and calamities, and the scene
people, the theatre of their heroic achievements
gifts, it addresses itself in a
on wHch Nature has lavished the most opposite
Shut out from the
history.
particular manner to the readers of Waldensian
embosomed in alps, whose
more fertile districts of the P6 and the Felice, and
to the notice of every reflecting stranger.

The

order

is

dated Chriatmas-Eve, December 24,

UXK

t See

tlie

notice on Rora.

THE WALDENSES.

50
seem

everlasting ramparts

to

deny

means of

all

ingress,

we might

supiiose

had

it

never snifered an interruption to that internal tranquillity with which virtue,

industry, and seclusion, reward their possessors.

now appears
as bright

throws

serenely

the time

its fi-uit

as

the day glides away, and

when every rock

has been

and

foliage,

has echoed to the shouts of a brutal soldiery, and

But these are

Health

succeeded by anotlier

is

over wliich the broad chestnut

the unavailing shrieks of a helpless population

"

But, peaceful as the scene

in its

and now the zephyr brings

breath, and gladness on its wings."
past

The Valley of Rora is the smallest of its confederates, and though far from
fertile by nature, is rendered comparatively so by the labour of its inhabitants.
Rocks, projecting in isolated masses, or strewn in fragments along the surface,
give

it,

at

first

sight,

an aspect of unconquerable

approach, every crevice

every

interval,

sterility
but, on a nearer
where a sprinkling of earth is to be
;

had, bears evidence of assiduous cultivation, and produces something to requite

frugal

its

possessor.

Chestnut-trees of luxuriant growth

and from

these,

acclivities;

prepared, wliich, with the luxury of

daintiest appetite

of

seasons

in

new

scarcity,

might partake of with

spending their smiimer on the

repair with

hills in

life

their

may
Monte

their

to

own mutual

necessities.

is

thither,

families

and

as the

pastoral

cattle.

After

of patriarchal simplicity, they again

descend to the valley as sjanptoms of vrinter set

branches of industiy by which they

bread

Over the higher grounds.

relish.

Nature has spread a rich carpet of vegetation; and

season arrives, the inhabitants

shade the inferior

a wholesome

milk, furnishes a repast wliich the

in,

and there prosecute those

best satisfy the state, and minister

Vise, the Scea Bianca, and

Mount

Frioland,* add their sublime features to those of the minor Alps, and, over-

looking

the valley,

village-capital,

and

character which

and

trees,

and

stamp

its

unchanging magnificence.

scenery with

more

dependent hamlets, are

is

heightened by the grotesque log-buildings, the

torrents,

all

The

or less picturesque

its

through which they emerge, and with the

which they have often to dispute existence in the storms that

visit

rocks,

of

last

these alpine

solitudes.

At

that critical period of his reign,

troops, his capital enduring a siege,

"

when
and

his territory

was overrun by French

his other resources exhausted, Victor

La montagne de Frieland s'^Ieve dans le fond du bassin c'est une des plus hautes de nos Alpes. Dans
mois d'octobre, sur les trois heures de Tapres-midi, on peut y voir, depuis la plaine de St. Jean, le soleil que
sommet sur une surface inelinde, Tilluminant jusqu'a un certain point de sa lumiere on
dirait un phare en plein jour, ou la pointe dore'e d'un immense paratonnerre." ^ui(on, liv. i. p. 44.
:

le

se refracte h son

01

EXPEDITION AGAINST RORA.

Amadeus found

Here he had ocular

only asylum in the fastness of Rora.

his

who now formed

demonstration of the loyalty of his Waldensian subjects,

body-guard, and by their devotion to

dutiful service the sovereign

his

person fully disproved the calumnies

against them.

so industriously circulated

whose

liis

The

family of Durand-Canton, to

was more expressly indebted,

still

preserve

the silver goblet, or drinking cup, presented to their ancestor as a memorial

of the great satisfaction the duke

had experienced while under the protection

" more convincing proof of a thorough good will to this

family," his highness confirmed to them the privilege of using their " garden
a favour which, at that time, must have been regarded
as a burial-ground"

As

of Rora.

still

no mean concession.*

as

During the
the Valleys,

terrible persecution which, in 1655, carried fire

Rora had

full

its

proportion of calamity

but

it

and sword into

called forth one

of those ardent spirits which from time to time relieve, like meteors, the darkness of a troubled night, and exhibit those virtues which are seldom brought
into action but in

moments of

great emergency.

The

individual to

whom we

was a native of Rora, named Janavel, whose genius and intrepidity

After the calamities to which
are the subject of miqualified admiration.
La Tour, Villar, and St. John, had been subjected, under the exterminating
allude

of Pianessa,

violence

Christovel charged with

similar

its

doom was intended

execution.

for

Rora,

and Count

Janavel, however, had narrowly watched

their secret

movements, and, seconded by a small determined band,

had trained

for the purpose,

threw himself into the

was already advancing upon Rora.

defile

whom

he

by which the enemy

Posting himself on a rock, and distributing

comrades so as to act at a moment's notice, he cahnly waited the approach

The latter, persuaded that their ruthless
of Christovel and his myrmidons.
proceedings on the other side of the Pelice had paralyzed aU further resistance,

his

and ensured them an easy entrance to Rora, advanced with little attention to
" These barbets,"j- said they, " have been taught such a lesson within
order.

we shall have not a sword to draw, nor a shot to fire so we

" For myself," said
it leisurely, and keep our strength for the chase."
"
sharp swords and round volleys
another,
I dislike your bloodless victories

these few days, that

may

take

for

me

your quiet shepherd-like expedition

*

"

is

death to a soldier of spirit

!"
.

They asked for freedom but the monarch gave

Freedom of conscience, only in the grave

For there alone the heretic transgressor

Might hope to find a refuge from the oppressor."
by which the Protestants of these Valleys were distinguished by their Catholic
neighbours and such as, in the East, is employed by good Mussulmen of the present day to express their
contempt of the Nazarenes, or " Christian dogs" to which the epithet barbet ia equivalent.
t

The

usual term of reproach

;

THE WALDENSES.

52

" Stop there," said a moustache, who caught the

not over

is

and before

there

it is,

last

" the expedition

words,

who may wish he had

one, at least,

is

still

been a shepherd." ..." Coward

retorted the other, fiercely drawing his
spada, " my silence has spared thee a more ignominious end.
Defend thyself
!"

and know, ere thou diest, that I saw the deed! saw thee perpetrate!"
" Well," interrupted the other, calmly, " I suppose thou sawest me deal a
.

few hearty blows, which, perchance, were fatal in the late affi-ay what then ?"
" I did," replied the other, " but these blows fell only on women and children !"
" And thine. Signer Cavalliero, on the aged and defenceless !" .
gallant
.

pair

!"

exclaimed the

"

speaker.

first

Women

and children are

"A

indeed

safe

when such magnanimous heroes bear the duke's commission!" " What,"
inquired another, " have we not full absolution for whatever we are forced to
do in the way of duty ? Are we not bound by religion as well as loyalty to

And what

extirpate this race of barbets ?

do overstep moderation?

does

it signify,

at times, our zeal

if,

and he performs his

say you, Signor Caporello ?" " Nothing,"

Their destruction

decreed,

is

duty best who despatches most. What

replied the corporal " soldiers have no business to think

belongs to their superiors

hardly

mend

late affair,

we

not

our rations

every

to-day?"

man

that department
he added, in a whisper, " to-day's march will

day under Pianessa

is

it."

..."

he added, vnth mock

if,"

we soon

True, their gold

solemnity

"

it

pays so well

obstinacy of heretics, a soldier

swords be made to

"

slay,

and heretics

if it cost

live

to

by

we reqmre its shelter and as

glorious, why, we must act like the
;

little

given up to

be

to

slain,

And why not ?

..."

Giuseppe's the man."

;

this sort of

we must not
warfare

is

and

as for this

'

root up the tree

allow

Take, burn,

even by Pianessa himself, and will this very day, by

give

splendid

fills

we

example of attachment

his

sovereign.

soldiers enjoy the plunder, Christovel

may have

no pockets."

two or
" But,"

slay,

and

Rora, his excellency has sworn not to be outdone in

loyalty,

provided

if

It

gainful as well as

provident chamois-hunter

interposed a former speaker, " our orders are explicit

!'

and

Propaganda and the

the

three of the flock to escape so as to secure sport for the next season."

destroy

blood in the gaining,

his profession.

were iU policy, however, to extirpate the breed

while

is

compensate one for the

better than their creed

is

Now, thanks

may

And why may

But, indeed, I become tender-hearted

forget that in the spending.

the cause

to

In the

fifty scudi.

" Every house in Rora

inquired the other.

trouble of taking

worth

has secured pay for a twelvemonth."

and these barbets have generally something

pillage,

to

but,"

to

its destruction,

that

Well, well
the praise

EXPLOITS OF JANAVEL.Tlius pleasantly discoursing on the business before them, Christovel and his
battalion

three hundred strong had

now reached

a point of the ascent where

a rocky outpost, covered with dense chestnut-trees, runs seemingly across the

and commanding the approach from both

pass, closing the view to the south,

" so

road;

What

ourselves

planted

only wait to bid us welcome."

We

..."

suddenly interruptmg the colloquy

advancing column.
that rolled

down

No enemy

was

Thrown

do

!"

But,

been given up, and they

exclaimed a voice of thunder,

visible

carried death

left

into the

but the volume of curling smoke

and

into utter confusion

by

vanguard were caught between two

his
this

unexpected salutation, the battalion

retraced their steps in terror and precipitation

come up, overthrown by the van

their

men

the rocks, told the direction of the shot, and furnished indu-

bitable evidence that Christovel

in

score of musqueteers

and, before the speaker could finish his

a volley of musketry from right and

sentence,

fires.

on these rocks, might keep an army at bay.

to destruction, all thoughts of defence have

abandoned

!"

to the

fastness impregnable at very small expense.

like

an admirable post of defence

wooded rocks that hung half suspended over

well guarded by nature, these barbets might render their
up

said Moustache, looking

tlie

"

well as from the centre.

as

flanks,

and

all

a dense forest,

retreat to cross

the

rear,

who had not yet

But having

hastening towards Villar.

where

their

haste was necessarily

impeded, the same invisible agents were again upon them, and every tree seemed
to discharge a bullet.

The havoc

thus renewed put Christovel and his band

completely to the rout, and saved Rora from meditated destruction

while

Janavel and his eight co-patriots hastened to concert ftirther measui'es for

its

defence.

The
by a

disgrace which attached to this enterprize Pianessa resolved to retrieve

fresh attempt,

hundred men

and with

to cross the

this

mountain.

view ordered another detachment of

Janavel had employed the interval in devising means for

force

whom

he

coiild

five

Fully aware that such would be the case,

its

muster, however, amomited to only seventeen

defeat.

All the

men eleven

of

were good marksmen, and the others expert slingers; and with these

he resolved to intercept the enemy's progress.

which the

latter

more adopted

had

The nature of

to pass being well suited for

the ground over

ambuscade, Janavel once

and when the enemy had advanced to a certain

front, his diminutive band opened so galling a fii-e

this expedient,

point, so as to expose their

upon them, that they were again di'iven back to their quarters with great loss,
and full of astonishment at the invisible army which had so unaccountably
interrupted their march.

THE WALDENSES.

54

The news

To

of a second defeat was the signal for vengeance.

Pianessa ordered

in

detachments from

all

The

completed his muster, sent them once more on the pass to Rora.
however, had become unpopular
of superstitious terror

among

insure this,

the neighbouring stations, and ha\-ing

service,

two successive defeats had inspired a degree

the troops, which they took

little

pains to conceal.

met by Janavel and his band, and

after a brief and irresolute struggle, again dispersed with shame and discomfiture.
The champion and his conu-ades now began to feel that Heaven was indeed on
Under

impression, they were boldly

this

their side, and that their beloved

Rora

shoiild yet

be spared the dreadiiil

visi-

unhappy neighbours had been doomed. But the oftener the

danger was repulsed, the more formidable it became, and, one detachment
Enraged by so many failures, and piqued
routed, another was sent in its track.
for his own military character, Pianessa renewed the expedition under more
which

tation to

its

It hapfavourable circumstances, and vnth a new and much stronger force.

pened, however, that the point of rendezvous was misunderstood by several of
the detachments, so that only a part of the intended force marched upon Rora.

much encumbered with

This battalion, however, was so

offer

no

effective resistance to the

determined courage of

the sanctity of their altars and hearths.

for

The arm

plunder, that

men who

it

could

fought only

of the mercenary was

cause.

when opposed to that which derived its strength from the justice of its
The rencontre was brief, and soon left Janavel and his band in possession

of the

field.

feeble,

Panic-struck, and abando-ning the plunder of which, during the

preceding days, they had robbed the inhabitants, the whole detachment was

routed and driven upon precipices that flanked an impetuous torrent, where
the only chance left of escape was to lower themselves from the rocks
of cords fastened to the trees

which overhung the abyss.

by means

This forlorn hope

they caught with the eagerness of despair, and, in some instances, with success
but of those who reached the bottom safely, the greater part were either swept
dovm by the roaring torrent that filled the chasm, or, imable to ford it or swim
across,

were reserved

for a

more protracted and miserable

fate.

Others, in their

haste and consternation, dropped at once from the precipices, and were dashed
to pieces

on the rocks.

This victory was followed by another on the same day; for the patriots
having met a fresh detachment on

ment took
this,
its

its

march from

Villar,

and terminated in favour of Rora and

an immediate engageits

champions.

With

however, the brilliant career of Janavel and his companions approached

term

and

place,

its

and the arm that had been

enemy, was destined

to

so undauntedly interposed

be withdrawn.

between Rora

;;

DESTRUCTION OF RORA.

now

Pianessa was

exasperated almost to frenzy by a series of actions

had contracted the imputation of cowardice, or incapacity

whicli his forces

which a handful of peasants had foiled the

in

to concentrate the wliole

up every

pass,

army, and then, by dividing

in

and

a disciplined army.

tactics of

Calling his officers together, he held a council of war, in which

Ijlock

55

it

was resolved

into separate corps,

it

and by a simultaneous movement from every accessible

" In this manner," said they, " we

avenue, secure the destruction of Rora.

pressed by our several divisions, the

favour;

a diversion in our

shall cause

barbets must disti-ibute their band into parties, where their defence can only

be momentary

and a

slight

one point will admit our troops at another

their resistance at

skirmish

at

most afford us ample and speedy revenge."

scheme was loudly applauded, and

it

This

was those only who retained a ^dnd

recollection of the late disasters that gave their reluctant consent to the measure.

The dread
tions

of Janavel and his ambuscade operated powerfully on their imagina-

rocks,

and precipices, and

and the shrieks of their perishing

torrents,

comrades, sobered the demonstration of joy with which the less experienced

But the ardent

hailed their general's proposal.

and

desire of revenge,

tlie

unrestricted license to slay and plunder, gave ascendency to the viler passions,

Thus

and secured unanimity.

and

filling

excited, the divisions again crossed the Pelice,

every avenue through the forests,

made a general movement upon

the devoted Rora.

To meet

this

overwhelming

was compelled to take up

most

accessible

effected, the
little

abandoned

whose only

patriotic efforts

on the

effective

frontier,

fold.

valley of Glenco,
assatdt.

be

general massacre

difficult in the

of

wth

such

and such as had already

Atrocities, to

village,

destruction.

the impetuosity of wolves rushing

as in our
fallen

own country

upon La Tour

which we cannot give utterance, and

for

stained the

followed

which

it

present day to obtain belief, were not only sanctioned

word, but encouraged by the example, of those whose glory

to spare the aged,

This

and meeting

The
to the work
members were now expending their last
consisted of old men, women, and children;

themselves

and on these the infuriated troops feU

upon a

frontier,

in forcing a passage in the opposite direction.

enraged soldiery rushed headlong upon the

resistance,

inhabitants,

mountains which was

and while gallantly defending the weaker part of the

enemy succeeded

the

had rightly surmised,

force, Janavel, as Pianessa

his position in that part of the

it

by

tlie

should have been

and respect the claims of innocence and beauty.

to the voice of Nature,

the

might

But, deaf

and dead to every feeling that could elevate the con-

queror above the beast of prey, supplication was only answered by the sabre

THE WALDENSES.

56

every soldier took upon himself the

of an executioner,

office

hamlet presented the spectacle of a vast scaffold strewn

the devoted

till

and

\vith \'ictims,

streaming with blood.

In a few hours, their dreadful commission executed, the soldiers gave themup to riot and plunder, and over the smoking ruins and blood-stained

selves

hearths of Rora, celebrated their horrible triumph.

few of the inhabitants,

spared from motives of avarice, reserved as evidence, or destined for

who were

When the
the public scaffold, were transported to the prisons of Turin.*
morning sun rose upon the village, not a voice was heard, nor a hearth left
through
which
ashes,
protruded
smouldering
at
standing; but a mass of
intervals the ghastly features of the slain,

carried its appeal to the gates of

But we spare the reader

and forbear to prosecute a picture

heaven.

's

which, unhappily for the honour of

own

may be found

day,

feelings,

human

nature,

is

only such

as,

even in our

too closely imitated in the provinces of a neighbouring

kingdom.

At

epoch of a disastrous history,

this

became of Janavel ?
the

enemy

it

be naturally inquired what

will

Having witnessed the destruction of

in possession of every approach,

his

home and

and nothing more

to

kindred,

defend in the

sohtudes of Rora, he transferred his strength to a fresh point of attack, and

joining another undaimted patriot,

among

the

natural

fastnesses of

named Bartholomew Jayer, took up a

Angrogne.

which kept the enemy in constant apprehension, he drove

guerilla warfare,

in their outjDOsts, cut off their detachments, seized their convoys,

them

in their strongholds,

till

and blockading

became in every sense the avenger of

Supported by Jayer, their united

kinsmen.
in check,

position

Here, engaging in a sort of

efforts

his

murdered

held the licentious troops

at length, the sanguinary edict being withdrawn, they obtained

the peace of 1655.

It is recorded of this intrepid individual, that,

burn

liis

and abjured

his religion,

and children are in

he nobly replied

his hands,

* Janavel's " sister, Marguerita,the

brother.

when Pianessa threatened

to

wife and children at the stake, unless he surrendered himself a prisoner

When Rora

and

if

"

As

to the first condition,

such be God's will he

my

wiie

may accomplish

his

mfe

of Giuseppe Garniero, possessed a spirit worthy of her untlaiinted

was attacked, and while she was exhorting her husband to assist in defending the place

' Do not
be shaken by this,' she exclaimed to her husband,
but endure the cross with patience, and hold out to the end.' Such might almost ennoble guilt, but it hallows
the victim of persecution." Gilly.
Among those whose names occupy an affecting page in the " Martyrology" of this secluded commune,
Giovanni Pallias, and Paolo Clementi, have transmitted to their descendants bright examples of that christian

to the last, she received a shot in her bosom.

'

fortitude

which could blunt the

scaffold into a triumph.

fiercest

pangs of corporeal

suffering,

and transform even the

terrors of the

ANGROGNE.

OLD

CHURCH.

57

threat; but this barbarous act can only affect their bodies, for which their
religion teaches

them not

be over

to

be supported in the hour of

will

If brought to the stake, they

solicitous.

Their faith

trial.

proof against terror, and

is

enables the innocent to look with complacent eye upon what

What was

the guilty.

couldst have no power at aU against me, except

As

to the question of apostasy;

defended with

my

now

once said to Pilate, I

blood ?

were given thee

it

principles unchangeable as the

am

No

The

ready to perish.

He

by shrinking from

and the reader

name on a more
Non
Aut

Thou

Shall

that cause which I

and

I shall never incur

will

To such
not thmk

man

it

too

lived, the

imcom-

the ancients would

much

we have

that

perishable tablet.

ille

pro caris aniicis

patria timidus perire."

Reserving, for the present, what further observations

Rora, we recross the Pelice, and leaving

This mountain

scenery of Angrogne.

'

have so long

word of God ?

in

kept his word, and shortly afterwards died, as he had

inscribed his

the other."

promising champion of religious freedom.

have raised statues

fi-om above.'

terrors of the Inquisition

are mild, compared with the upbraidings of conscience

the one,

terrible only to

shall I abjure those principles I

I desert his cause for the hopes of a renegade

have thus feebly espoused, I

is

say to Pianessa

La Tour on

defile,

with

the

we had

left,

to

make on

enter the romantic

richly variegated features

its

of hanging woods, rustic hamlets, and rushing streams, holds a distinguished

among

place

the historical scenes of the Waldenses.

epochs of their existence as a persecuted people,

their trimnphs

and

sufferings.

its

In

all

the calamitous

recesses have both witnessed

Intrenched among

its

natural fastnesses, they

could watch the hostile movements directed against them, and not unfi-equently
roll

back the tide upon their oppressors.

The

object that

first

awakens particular interest on entering the

defile,

the old Protestant Church of Angrogne, which has been superseded

new

structure at St. John's, already mentioned.

picturesque; but

its

their faith

was

built,

is

lonely and

the pastor and his oppressed

together that word on which

and on which they grounded the

If the fragments of a heathen temple have

aside for the

situation

serene and tranquil solitude acquires a tenfold interest

when viewed in connexion with those times when

met within its walls when they expounded

flock

Its

is

by the

mere indulgence of some

power

to

justice of their cause.

draw the

ciu-ious traveller

classical speculation, the holier influence

THE WALDENSES.

58
which

still

cannot

fail to

if

a voice

clings to this deserted shrine,

still

with which

name

its

recals

cemented by the blood of martyrs,

actuate the stranger with feelings of a higher order.

addressed him from

its

sanctuary

seems as

It

as if the sepulchral tablets

walls are here and there encrusted, brought back the dead.

some feature

Every

in the history of those struggles, out of which, like

gold from the furnace, the Waldenses rose with brighter and more abiding
lustre.

At

trials, in

which

tliis

altar

life

they met in holy communion

and property were

sacrificed

left it to sustain

various

and here again, when the storm

subsided, they returned to the exercise of that worship for which they

had

Here, too, mingling his ashes vnth the obscure members

much.

suffered so

of a kindred worship, the Protestant exile of northern countries rests with his

" elder brethren of the

It requires

south."

when

fiUed

them

to fortitude, patience,

by

and forgiveness; and

and conversation the beauty of

and confirmed by
those divine

effort

of imagination to

There stood the pastor, exhorting

primitive congregation.

its

little

humble temple must have presented

picture to ourselves the scenes which this

his precepts.

illustrating in his

the weight of oppression could be hghtened,

trials.

But,

when

touched upon the immediate dangers which threatened them

which impelled every

leagued for

to
its

ward

member

off

of his flock

from that

destruction

altar,

his voice

to

and disinterested patriot

liis

necessity

stood, the profane

became more emphatic,

God

hands

his eye kindled,

showed that he who

feelings,

thus exhorted them from the pulpit would not desert them in the
the conscientious discharge of

the speaker

the

preserve the worship of

where they

and his manner, rising with the elevation of his

and intrepidity of a

life

example, the persecuted flock stood eagerly listening to

his

maxims by which alone

and the di'ooping heart strengthened for new

immaculate

own

Here, refreshed by his discourse,

field.

With

pastoral duties, he united those of a zealous

and with the mild forbearance of a

saint, the skill

Such were the pastors who once ministered within

soldier.

these walls.

On

the right, a portion of the disjointed floor, hollowed

who have long passed away,

indicates the spot

vows have so often given a deeper interest

by the

steps of those

where the marriage and baptismal

There stood

to the day's solemnity.

the Vaudois bride, in her simple attire, and singleness of heart, consecrating

her days to liim whose name, perhaps, was already registered in the black roll
of the Inquisition
rite,

Here

the

young mother presented her babe

which was to add one more name

was he who should have shared in

transferred to the child?

to the heirs of

this solemnity,

Like hundreds of

for that sacred

redemption.

But where

and whose name was here

his brethren,

he had perished in

PRA-DEL-TOR.

band of military executioners

resisting the

of

Angrogne with

fire

The

and sword.

themselves to

from the time of

who

lasting sanctity,

its

erection

readily

will

are familiar with the history of the place and

confers a peculiar interest on this Vaudois temple

But what

people.

all

the fairest portion

scenes, however, that have transpired

within these walls, and bequeathed to them

suo-o-est

59

who had wasted

it

till

is,

that,

was superseded by the new church, freedom

of conscience was strictly prohibited, and the pastor and his hearers exposed to

Here they took pious coimsel on

when the night of terror had passed

every mark of degradation and violence.

the eve of fresh calamities; and here,

away, they renewed their vows, and invoked the protection of Heaven.

An

object of

deeper interest in the

still

district, is

Here,

the Pra-del-Tor.*

during the darkness which overshadowed the states of Cliristendom, the light
of pure religion was kept burning, in illustration of

its

own motto " Lux lucet

Here the ancient Barbes, or pastors of the Valleys, had their

school of divinity, where the youth were instructed in the sacred duties of the
in tenebris."

ministry, and sent forth into distant countries and provinces to preach

by whicli the

doctrines

This

principles of the Reformation

a deep

ancient sanctuary occupies

encircled

by

lofty rocks,

which appear

their inhabitants a life of holy study

college not a vestige remains

confiscated,

its

and not " one stone

by introducing

their

own form

those

were gradually matured.

secluded hollow in the moimtains,

to shut out the world,

and contemplation.

and

to secure for

But of the

original

professors were scattered, its scanty revenue

left

upon another."

Thinking, perhaps, that,

of worship into a place so sacred in the eyes of

every Vaudois, they might weaken their attachment, and draw over some portion
of the Protestant community to the Catholic church, the benevolent priests

have had a chapel erected on the spot, and consecrated by the bishop of Pignerol.

The measure, however, has not been

followed by the success anticipated.

Had

Ammon in the same place, and called upon the

faith and bum incense upon his altar, their chance

they raised a temple to Jupiter

inhabitants to abandon their

of making proselytes would have been nearly the same.

intolerance
of

little

is

now

happily past

who are
same God, and

importance

glory to the

But the reign of

and, in the eyes of the sincere Christian,

it

is

the founders, or the altars, so long as they ascribe

cease to persecute a dissenting brother.

" C'est 14, que durant les plus fepaisses t^nebres, et Ice plus grandes persecutions, les anciens Barbes ont
encore toujours librement presch^ et conserve le college, ou ils instniisaient ceux qu'ils preparaient au saint
minUtere; d'ou, jusqu'au temps de la Rtfonnation, ils tiraient la plupart des pasteurs qu'ils envoyaient prescher I'Evangile es pays eloigneset d'ou, aussi. Ion envoyait des jeunes gens etudier dans les Vall&s."

Leger, p.

I.

chap.

i.

DU

THE WALDENSES.
" P^risse a jamais I'affreuse politique
Q,ui prt<tend sur les coeurs uii pouvoir despotique

Qui
Qui

veut, le fer en main, convertir les mortela

tlu

sang hft^tique arrose

les autels

un faux zele, ou I'int^ret pour guides,

un Dieu de paix, que par des homicides !"

Et, suivant

Ne

To

sert

return to the Barbes, or pastors of the Waldensian church.

It is related

in one of the manuscripts preserved at Cambridge, that they once assembled

at a sjTiod held in this

neighbourhood to the amoiuit of one hundred and

But the apparent extravagance of

this

number

readily explained,

is

are informed, on the same authority, that they were sent,

into

every part of Europe, to

gospel.

The

by

forty.

when we

turns, as missionaries

brethren, and preach the

\dsit their scattered

countries to which these pious labourers in the vineyard directed

a more particular attention, were Bohemia, the states of Germany, and England
in all of

which the purity of their

and practice brought over many pro-

faith

They paved the way for Wickliffe, John Huss, Jerome of Prague,
and many others, who eagerly embraced their evangelical tenets, and sealed
the testimony with their blood.
If the documents to which we refer may be
and their authority has never been questioned " we must admit,"
relied on
says an able and judicious writer, " the existence of a body of men, who not
selytes.

only preserved, but actively diffused, the true light of the gospel during those

we are too apt to consider it as having been extinguished.

he continues, " the casual work of detached individuals, but

very ages in which

Nor was

this,"

the constant object of succeeding generations, acting in concert, and acknow-

ledging the same ecclesiastical authority.

Sublime, indeed,

is

the picture of

among Alpine snows to protect

that opposed by them, as their

these venerable Christians, assembled in conclave

a doctrine as superior in glorious simplicity to

0W71 native mountains to the gorgeous cupola of St. Peter's."*

The synod, composed

parishes,

of the different pastors and elders, chosen

by

their

and presided over by the moderator, always possessed the chief

authority in the Waldensian

church.

It

took cognizance, not only of

matters, but even of temporal differences and disputes

ecclesiastical

all

which,

in the first instance, were referred to the elders, and from the elders to the

parish consistory,-|-

who appointed

arbitrators for their

could a dispute outlive this process; or

the synod.

Much

Acland, Compend.

of the same admirable practice

and

examination

adjustment.

Seldom

is

kept up in the present day.

p. 80.

of all the elders, and the deacon the elders were only chosen after a
and out of their numher the deacon was elected, whose office was to take charge of,
and account for them to the pastor. But lest this admirable discipline, of which we

t The ConRistoiy was composed

rigid

fijial

then became a question for

if it did, it

distribute the alms,

NOBLE TESTIMONY. PRARISTIN.

These

by the interposition of
harmony by the mild exhortation of the pastor.

grievous law-suits, are here adjusted

to

short distance from Prassuji;,

together, and shaded

Alps; but what gives

cavern which

is

by luxuriant

some remote choulement

result of

it

61

which in other countries would swell into

misunderstandings,

slight

ROCHEPLATE.

and restored

a singular chaos of rocks, grotesquely piled

chestnut-trees.
or land-slip

friends,

It

seems to have bee

common phenomenon

a particular claim to the stranger's notice,

is

the

in the

a spacious

contains, in which, according to tradition, the ancient inha-

it

bitants of these Valleys foimd refuge in times of persecution, and a tranquil spot

from which they were debarred by the spies of

for administering the sacrament,

With

the Inquisition.

respect to the unsullied morals for which the Waldenses

have been so justly celebrated by Catholic as well as Protestant writers, the

annexed is a noble testimony. Often, wliilst the armies of their persecutors

were pouring in upon them, and they were compelled to seek refuge in " dens,
and caves of the earth,"

Catholic neighbours, in order to

their

place

their

daughters beyond the reach of a brutal soldiery, intrusted them to the guardianship of the Waldenses.
likely to

be misled by

De Thou,

himself a Catholic writer, and therefore less

partiality to the

Waldenses,

same frank and

offers the

emphatic record in their behalf.*

The

parochial

commune

of Prarustin

The church

valley of Turina.

lemy

is

the secluded

pleasing associations

Barthe-

and about half a

The

affording a fine aspect, and a soil favourable to the grape,

present a succession of vineyards

wine of superior flavour and

mands is eminently

all

quality.

managed with great

The view which the

St.

care,

and yielding a

rising

groimd com-

beautiful, and, extending over the adjoining plain of Piedmont,

comprises an infinite variety of striking features,

of Bricheras,

lies

rising gi-ound, called St.

Rocheplate, a chapel of ease belonging to the parish.

lesigue distant, is

here,

situated on the ridge of hills extend-

on a

built

name which can awaken no

acclivities

is

and behind which, on the west,

ing in front of Pignerol,

among which

Second, Garsiliana, and IMombron

the

are the villages

latter

supposed to

have formed part of Prarustin at that period of their history when the Waldenses

had colonies

in almost every district of Piedmont.

Besides the great concourse

can here present only an imperfect outline, should be affected bj the caprices or passions incidental to
human nature, its rules were accurately defined and drawn up in the form of eanona, a copy of which is
preserved in the MSS. already quoted, and is thus headed " The Discipline by means of which the Barbes.
:

or Pastors, of the Vaudois have presened the true doctrine, and haie prevented

and corrected disorderly

Acklaso's Compendium of the Hislory of the Vaudois.

" Praecipua Castitatis cura et lionos inter Valdenses; adeo ut vicini, qui alioqui ab eonun religione alieni

living."A>e
*

erant. ut filianim

committerent."

suarum

Thuani,

pudicitiae consulerent,
lib. xxvii.

ii.

p. 19.

vim a

licientioso milite Teriti, eas

Valdensium cura ac

fidsi

THE WALDENSES,

62
of

people

resorted

Vfho

hither

particvJarly

to

the

chmxhes of the Val-

Luzern, as lying more in convenience with lower Piedmont

and who required

the fi'equent preaching of the gospel, the pastors were also obliged to minister
in various

other

places

where the Protestants were numerous.

about from place to place baptising infants, consoling the

the ignorant, and

who were

all

in need.

They had

They went

afflicted, instructing

stated times at which they

repaired to the castles and other residences of the chief nobility, where the sacra-

For a field of
ment of the Lord's Supper was administered from time to time.
number of preachers was insufficient and of the apostolic
barbes who still survived, some, enfeebled by age, had earned an honourable
labour so extensive, the

retirement from

laborious duties of

the

life,

while others were engaged as

missionaries in Calabria, Apulia, and other provinces of Italy.*

This passage

is

remarkable under more than one consideration;

how much

Italy

midgated

and those

nobility

there

it

shows

was disposed at the time in favour of the doctrines thus pro-

to

of the poor barbesf to the castles and manors of the

visits

preach and inculcate the

interesting feature in their character.

who went about from

charms of a mistress

Word

of

God is

not the least

has been said of the troubadom-s,

to castle singing the exploits of heroes, or

castle,
is

Much

it less

engaged in a much more adventurous enterprise, presiding at the solemn

of a proscribed religion

the

interesting to behold those messengers of peace

or prosecuting the

more

rites

distant objects of their sacred

missions in a pilgrimage which could not be performed vrithout personal risk

and habitual privations?

In the month of October, 1560, the Comte de
to invade this frontier

tulate

on

his

own

la Trinite

made preparations

with a powerful army, and force the Waldenses to capi-

As

terms.

soon as the latter were certified of the hostile

measures adopted, and of the numerous levies ordered for the

resolved to

meet the danger with becoming

of those slender resources stiU

accordingly held, in which

be used in order

to defeat

it

firmness,

left at their disposal.

and to

service,

they

avail themselves

Various meetings were

was anxiously debated what expedients were

to

an expedition which threatened their very existence.

* GilleSy chap. viii. Muston, liv. i. This fact is supported by the following testimony from another source.
" In nonnuUis Italia partibus, tarn Spoletanffi provinciee, quam etuun aiiarum circumjacentium regionum
nonnullos ecclesiasticos et mundanos religiosos et seculares utriusque sexus versari, qui novum rilum introducere moliantur."

Bull of Innocent VIII. Muslon, p. 183.

by which the Waldensian pastors were commonly distinguished, is a Piedmontese

and was given in order to conceal their quality in times and places where its open
avowal would have drawn upon them persecution and death, while at the same time it served as a pass-word,
or term of recognition among the scattered members of their own community, to whom the barbes were sent
in frequent pilgrimages. Muslon.
t.

The term

barbe, that

word, signifying uncle

PREPARATIONS FOR BATTLE.

Tlie result was

To

and

his revealed

that

He would

accept no conditions

word

to give themselves seriously to prayer

the impending

avert

63

God

derogatory to the lionour of

and supplication,

that every individual

calamity;

provide himself with such necessaries as the case

demanded

movable property and provisions, their aged and

invalids,

and that

women and

should
their

all

children,

should be carried up into the mountains, and there deposited in some place of
security

till

the approaching struggle

should decide

their

About the

fate.

end of the month the enemy's colunms were put in motion, and the Waldenses
prepared for their reception by observing a day of solemn

The devout

fast.

performance of their religious duties inspired them vdth a courage which

nothing else could supply

and, instead of lamenting their fate as victims, they

already prepared themselves for battle with the confidence of victors.

family the praise of

God was

manner they mutually soothed and encouraged one another.

in this

however, were of opinion that they should not take up arms

mity,

in order to evince

their

respect for

their

and

that,

if

the

till

later it

great

their

must come to
and

their possessions,

plunder without restriction, they might be reduced to famine,

to stand

Several,

the last extre-

and

sovereign,

But reflecting that sooner or

enemy were suffered to ravage

reluctance to shed blood.

this,

In every

expressed in psalms and spiritual hymns; and

it

was resolved

on the defensive, and trusting in God, the witness and protector of

innocence, to resist the

said they, should it

first

hostile inroad to the

happen that we

lift

utmost of their power.

But,

the sword in vain, and that God, in his

inscrutable pro\ddence, has reserved us for

still

greater humiliation and suffering,

then will we bear the chastisement, not only without a murmur, but with a
full

conviction that, although deferred, the day of our deliverance will yet arrive.

The simple and

scene,

is

affecting picture

highly dramatic

which the historian Gilles has given of

and Muston, in

allusion to the

same episode

this

in his

country's annals, closes his observations with the annexed comment.*

Boyer,

who was

intimately acquainted with the character of the

people,

and whose admiration increased in proportion to that acquaintance, exclaims

"

Of

all

the nations that have existed from the earliest ages

time, there

is

to our

own

none, that of the Jews excepted, whose history presents such a

mass of extraordinary occurrences as that of the Waldenses."

dovm

" QAie j'aime ce stylesimple et n!uf,comme celui d"un fvans^liste

But on

qiii ferivait ses

this passage

douleurs.

Jen'ai jamais

s'est rarement renouvelfe.

Ces hymnes de proscrits se retirant avec
montagnes ces touchantes et solennelles ceremonies cette sainte joie de soufFrir pour
le Seigneur; et, en meme temps, ce courage si plein de noblesse et de dignity, dans des simples campagnarda.
N'est-ce pas un tableau unique, admirable ? Jamais Walter Scott, ou Byron, jamais un Homere, eut-il conyu
!"
des scenes plus sublimes que celle d'un peuple entier se preparant a des pers&utions comme a une solennite

pu

lire ce feuillet

Kins une emotion qui

leurs families dans les

THE WALDENSES.

64

Muston

had miracles wrought in

rightly observee, that the Jewish nation

Waldenses have no pretension

favour, whereas the

to

its

any thing preternatural

nothing beyond a series of daring exploits, accomplished by the happiest imion

of hearts, and a fearless devotion to the duties of their religion.

In the month of February, the Waldenses were suddenly attacked in their

by three divisions of the enemy. The first advanced

upon them by the opening from the valley, the second by the mountains of
Pramol, and the third by the heights of Val-St. Martin.* The first division
position at the Pra-del-tor

the second was repulsed at

While Louis de Monteil, who commanded the third, taking
advantage of the pause occasioned by the defeat of the others, was advancing
rapidly across the snow, a Vaudois youth overtook and slew him at the head

advanced slowly, in the midst of conflagrations

the

first

of his

shock.

the troops would have fallen

All

battalion.

Waldenses, had not their minister ordered them to

Him who had

return thanks to

checked the

them

spirit of

given them the victory.

their knees,

In

this

He

and

manner he

then exhorted

and to shed no blood, unless where their own preser-

unavoidable.

it

the hands of the

upon

revenge by awakening that of gratitude.

to spare the flying,

vation rendered

into

fall

In the mean tune, whilst

all this

on the surrounding heights, the old men, women, and children,

was passing
left

at the

During the day, they had

Pra-del-tor, were in a state of agonizing suspense.

heard the sounds of battle every where around them, and knew not what might

be the

In a short time, however, they beheld their fathers, husbands,

result.

and brothers, returning with the trophies of victory

and the same evening the

" Lift your
hill.

voice of public thanksgiving resounded fi-om every vale and

on high

voices

let

your hearts be

given us the victory.

lifted

mighty army was

the spoil, they spake of their ti'iumph

them out

for ever

;'

we

up

Him who

in thankfulness to

set in

array against us

they said in their hearts,

vsdU give their houses to the flame

'

hath

they counted

We will

root

and

their

their wives

The earth trembled

children to the sword; that no remnant may be left.
the trampling of their
at their approach; the brightness of their armour

steeds

the

shouts of the troops

as they hastened to

shed blood;

and the

* During four successive days, charge followed charge, with no other intermission than the time occupied
columns by fresh troops from the rear. Having lost four hundred privates, eight

in relieving the defeated

and two colonels, left on the field, in addition to the wounded, and those who had been interred, the
Count was forced back upon La Tour. His second attempt to reduce this fastness was still more disastrous
captains,

than the preceding. The force now brought against it consisted of Spaniards, who, after witnessing and
suffering a repetition of the catastrophe, broke out into open mutiny, and refused to continue their operations
A complete rout
against a post which they firmly believed was under the defence of supernatural agency
!

wns the consequence, in which the precipices and torrents of Angrogne were
Morland, p. 23o. Hist. Univ- "- i.x.

of their pursuers. ie.9ej-, p. 33

still

more

fatal

than the swords

BARRICADE.

marked

devastation that

upon us from the

PRA-DEL-TOR.
were terrible to behold.

their course,

valley

they burst

65

down from

They rushed

the mountains

they scaled

hemmed us in on all sides. The thunder of battle

opened its mouth; but the God of our fathers was on our side. Lift, then,
your hearts to Him who hath given us the victory !"
snowy precipices

the

Their position

is

they

seen in the Barricade* of the Pra-del-Tor, which served

the twofold purpose of a college and a citadel.

It

was the sacred spot

in

which

they ihibibed the doctrines of their religion, and the natural ramparts on which
they had so often assembled for
shortly before the attack,

Comte de

la Trinite

a Catholic

your arms

be better than ours, then you

that

name

defence.

was here, says Muston,

It

that,

matron thus prophetically addressed the

" Sir," said she, "

religion of those people,

was obliged

its

will

if

our religion be better

be victorious; but,

will sustain a defeat."

if

their

than the
religion

In his retreat, the comte

to pass close to the gulf of Saquet, where, in 1488, a captain of

resolved

Vaudois by storm

much

in the

same way to carry

but having entirely

failed,

this ancient post of

and seeing

his

tJie

army routed, he

terminated his career by throwing himself, vrith severalfof his followers, into
the gulf which

still

records the disaster.

The

associations likely to

arise in

such circumstances could have had nothing to console the comte for such a
more particidarly as he had that very morning declared his resolution
residt

to exterminate the heretics.

The

Angrogne stands

central church of

in the

hamlet of

St.

Lawrence, at the

lower extremity of the valley, and, like that of Serres, a mile higher up, was
constructed about the middle of the sixteenth century.

was only

it

Down

to that epoch,

in the pastors' houses, or in those of private individuals, that religious

meetings were tolerated.

In

this primitive sanctuary the people have,

on more

than one occasion, assembled to take upon themselves the vows of miion and
fraternal concord

existence.
pastors,

to

Here

who were

called

to maintain

a precarious

1532, was held the memorable assembly of Waldensian

upon

to decide respecting certain questions of doctrine

which the Reformation had given fresh importance.

already named,
century,

by which alone they could hope

also, in

is

Prassuyt, the hamlet

remarkable as the place where, at the close of the fifteenth

the duke of

La Barricade

Savoy sent a bishop to hold a conference with the

to

which the accompanying view, drami by Mr. Brockedon, presents a close resemit is fenced in by steep rocks; and at the spot where
flints was thrown uj) to add to the natural
strength of the position, and so contrived that one opening only was left by which the retreating party might
escape to the fastnesses behind it
See GUly's Ej-cursions.

blance

is

a narrow defile upon the side of the torrent

the rocks were supposed to leave too wide a passiige, a strong wall of

THE WALDENSES.

bb

Waldenses, respecting the peace which had been so glaringly violated by the
sanguinary proceedings of Aquapendente, and other agents of the Inquisition.

Of

the rich and romantic scenery of Angrogne, our limits will not permit us

to enter into

any

detail

but when we describe

it

as a picture in miniature of

Switzerland, the reader will form a just conception of

its

general features.

All the ingredients of Alpine landscape, torrents, rocks, precipices, gloomy

ravines,

nance

and

and gushing fountains

verdant

fertility

meadows,

to

forests,

that at once afford shelter and suste-

which the meandering streams carry freshness

and gardens, containing the produce of

fields

clinging to the very precipices,

part of the inhabitants which has purchased the means of

unfavourable circumstances.

Dr. Gilly, and to

liis

But

this

work we have

in the history of the Waldenses,

life

under the most

department has been ably sketched by

pleasui-e in referring oiu" readers.

Descending into the Val-Clusone, by the Vachera

enveloped in forests

different climates,

and evincing that unwearied industry on the

but a hUl much

not
less

we enter the commune of Pramol.

the

Alp celebrated

elevated,

and nearly

Until

year 1573,

tire

the inhabitants of this place formed no part of the Protestant community, but

were converted from the Catholic

remarkable manner, by the

faith in a very

pastor of St. Germain, and at the very time that Bivague, on the other hand,

was employing every possible agent for the conversion or destruction of the
Waldenses.

was in

It

this village, also, that, in 1630, the pastors of the Valleys

assembled during the plague, which at that time was committing fearful ravages
in Piedmont.

The

object of this meeting was to concert measures for arresting,

or at least modifying, the virulence of the scourge

but in their humiane

efforts

and unwearied vigilance to save others, the greater number among themselves
So great was the blank thus occasioned in the
fell victims to the disease.
different parishes,

pastors of

that they

had

Geneva and Lausanne.

to

be supplied by others from among the

ST.

GERMAIN.

THE VALLEY OF

67

ST.

MARTIN;

INCLUDING THOSE OF CLUSONE, PEROUSE, AND PRAGELAS.

The

village of St.

Germain, as seen in the accompanying plate,* occupies

a slight undulation on the right

bank of the Clusone, which here descends in

a copious flood, and in the present day forms the "

Waldenses and
Protestants had

known,

that,

successors

if

their

Catholic neighbours.

Rubicon " between the

In former times,

settlements along the whole valley of Pragelas

lefl

to

the freedom of conscience,

however, the

and

it is

well

a great portion of their

would now adopt the primitive doctrines of the Waldensian church.

But, on this point, the legislative enactments are too explicit to be misunderstood, too strong to be slighted,

and too

terrible in their denunciations to

be

we have already spoken, and may again advert to

St. Germain is advantageously situated in point of soil
it in another place.
and climate. Along the base of the hills by which it is flanked on the west,
But

openly braved.

corn, wine,

and

of this

fruit are

produced in abundance.

same

Tlie

spirit

of industi-y

which distinguishes the communes through which we have just passed,

evinced

under the

like pleasing

sufficient interest to call for

forms;

particular desci-iption.

ever, will repay the stranger for a visit;

records of other days will rise upon his

St.

is

here

but the village presents nothing of

Its

humble temple, how-

and when he quits

memory

its

threshold, the

in renovated freshness.

Germain occupies no inconsiderable portion in the history of those wars,

by a pretended zeal for religion a zeal

the violence of which was excused

which too often impelled

its

blinded votaries to the perpetration of cruelties

which the readers of a more enlightened age attach reluctant credence.

to

One

we may here

instance

introduce in illustration of the fact:

In

the year

1560, the venerable fathers belonging to the adjacent monastery of Pignerol

were exceedingly desirous of getting into their power the worthy pastor of

But

Germain.

St.

risk

to do so

of his acquaintance to betray

*
to

The drawing

Ije

by

force

would have been attended with some

they resorted, therefore, to stratagem, and succeeded in bribing a person

is

him

taken from the Pignerol

si Je

into their hands.

True

to his engagement,

of the river, induding the picturesque wooden bridge, shortly

replaced by another of stone, preparations for which were

making

granite in immediate contact, afford abundant materials for this pur])Ose.

hist

autumn.

Excellent quarries of

THE WALDENSES.
this unprincipled

individual

his story ready concocted,

by some person

man came

one morning upon the pastor,

called

stated that his assistance

At

in distress.

instantly forward

so,

and met the eyes of his

The

guest, the embarrassment of the latter betrayed his guilty purpose.

flashed

upon the pastor

he

preserved his self-command,

still

and unwilling

cessful,

but, seeing the snare into

pectedly in sight

till

act of unusual vigilance, entered

The ambuscade, however, came unex-

his visit.

and with such a prospect before him, the pastor had good

reason to fear the worst.

The

round his head.

the scene;

the

in

same instant a shower of

bullets

report of muskets brought a crowd suddenly to

but when they gathered round their beloved pastor, they found

him already bleeding, and

employed in so base a

Thus circumstanced,

severely wounded.

service,

and headed by

men and women, were

persons of the village,

their Judas,

Some attempt being made

in binding their prisoner.

had

the troops

little difficulty

for his rescue,

several

and conducted to

also captured,

Their houses were piUaged, the inhabitants maltreated,

the fortress of Pignerol.

and the

momentary pause

therefore,

Seizing,

conversation, he betook himself to flight, but the

wliistled

truth

which he had been drawn,

the traitor, tliiidiing his plan quite suc-

by any

to betray himself

on the pretended subject of

good

this appeal to his christian charity, the

but the moment he did

and with

was immediately wanted

fruits of the expedition,

conveyed to the monastery.

says the narrator

Here, kept in

strict

prisoners

and plunder

confinement, the pastor was

exhorted to renounce his heresy forthwith, or abide the worst consequences.

The

exhortation was followed by a

of an ignominious death

but

still

command

were mortified by his rejection of their

nacy

against the church of

Rome, and

imposing silence on the

man

offers

his fortitude they

and to spare

their

own dependents

compelled the miserable individuals

pastor, to bear the faggots that

was led from

;

the

his

fire

dungeon

a speedy

they could

funeral pile to be erected in the square

obsti-

said,

They caused

not convert.

its

of at
a

but, to give the scene greater effect,

the duty of so degrading an

who were

carried

were to consume him.

to the stake,

itself

and bound

off'

office,

along with

they
their

This done, the minister

in the midst of the

combus-

rose fiercely around him, and he died glorying in that he was

monks passed

it is

The monks
termed

method presented

accounted worthy to suffer for the religion of Christ.

the

with the threat

whole conduct in direct defiance of

his

Under such circumstances,

authority.

tibles

command

the dispassionate statement of his faith, a tissue of rebellious sentiments

least

the

the pastor remained unshaken.

In the evening,

when

the pile of ashes for the performance of vespers, the embers,

became suddenly

red, as if again fanned into flame

by

their presence.

GRANITE-QUARRY.

Was

to each tlie awful inquiry

" Where

Nearly opposite the ullage of

to

many

for that

09

St.

is

tliy

brother

Germain,

is

and addressed

?"

the famous granite quarry,

we

employment

It gives

purpose to a great distance.

hands, and at the time

aslies,

for all the chief public buildings in the country,

from which materials are di-awn

and often transported

PEROUSE.

spoke from the glovWng

this the accusing witness that

passed, exhibited a picture of great activity.

Several immense blocks and columns lay ready to be transported to their several
destinations

numerous

chisels

were employed upon others

face of the rock, " black vrith the miner's blast,"

work

of chambers, showed the busy groups employed on the

the colossal pillar from

its

native mass

there

while

the steep

and excavated into a variety

here

separating

mass asunder by

rendiiig that

the power of art, and lowering the huge fragments thus dislodged to the base.

There

hardly, perhaps, a

is

with which

man

more

interesting or convincing proof of the powers

has been invested by modern invention, than the manner in

which these powers are here exercised, and the

to his purpose one of the
is

rent at his touch

phenomena

wliich

tlie

with which he subdues

facility

The

most imtractable substances in nature.

split into

fragments and

his art

made

solid

rock

to exhibit those

ancients would have regarded as the terrible

effects of

lightnmg and thunder, such as they themselves could only accomplish by the
tedious process of

From

manual labour.

we proceed along the spacious

and Piedmont, by the fort of
became the great medium of intercourse between the
time Pignerol remained in possession of Louis XIV.,

this point to the village of

Perouse,

military road communicating between France

Fenestrelle.

This route

two frontiers during the

and the line of march by which the troops under Catinat

uaade their descent into Piedmont.

By

this defile Caesar

effected his expedition into ancient Gaul.

At

exclusively used in the upper Valley as a

mere

Pignerol.

The scenery along

the present
line to

and Lesdiguieres
supposed

is

moment,

to

it is

have

almost

connect the fort with

the river is bold and rugged, particularly on the

right bank, but variegated with patches of cultivation, crowned with straggling
forests,

and enlivened with cottages, wliich appear

natural rocks, which, for so

many

ages, have

as if

mere

projections of the

been the refuge of their inhabitants.

These heights form the modern frontier of the Waldenses to the

from the
Alps.

river's

east, and, rising

channel in beautiful gradation, fade away at last into the Cottian

Numerous

traces of recent

inundations,

bridges swept av/ay, corn fields destroyed, and

embankments broken

damage done

to the road,

do\Mi,

showed

with what impetuosity the lateral torrents rush at times into their principal
channel, the Clusone.

In situations

like this, territory is held

on a very imcer-

THE WALDENSES.

70

Surrounded by so many destructive agents,

tenure.

tain

watched

requires to be

it

exposed to the constant danger of an assault

like a city

for

" While the peasant Bleeps

in a night,

Dreaming

of golden harvests

Down from
His ripened

tlie hills

field

a rushing tempest sweeps

there leaves the dismal blight

Of barren sandploughed
Upon the scene !"

On

up, and piled in heaps

the right of the road, occupying a gentle swell in the acclivity,

handsome

villa,

summer

the

residence of a family of distinction.

lofty

cupola, rising above the building like that of a consecrated edifice, renders

conspicuous in the

The

landscape.

Perouse

village of

is

is

Its

announced by

it

its

church and tower, built on an abrupt, elevated ridge, and commanding the
approach, like a military post of observation.

The soimd

of

bells, as

its

advanced, was a sorrowful attempt at the science of tintinnabuUsm

could have been less inviting
cause was soon explained

upon

satire

all

we

nothing

" sacred melodies."

But the

the metal had been cracked by over-exertion in some

former festival; and now, instead of the fine full-toned bell of other days,

had degenerated,

if

we may

use

so

homely a comparison, into that of a

" pestle-and-mortar harmony."

In former times a strong

upon the adjacent

Valleys.

castle

defended this pass, and kept a jealous eye

Tliis

has been long superseded by other meajis

of security, and the pass more effectually watched by the garrison of Fenestrelle.

This vast fortress closes the extremity of Val-Pragelas, and serves the double

purpose of a military stronghold, and a state prison.

nable

and,

wMe

cognizance of the most humble pedestrian.

tions

impreg-

The

fear of having its fortifica-

committed to paper by any rash peripatetic of the Arts, occasions

vigilance.

strict

crayon and portfolio in hand are almost as fatal to the bearer as

he had arrived to plant a mortar-battery in

if

It is considered

well calculated to arrest the progress of a hostile army, takes

and Val-Pragelas we may again advert

But

its face.

to Fenestrelle

and in the mean time the reader

will

observe a perfect resemblance to that alpine citadel in the accompanying drawing

by Mr.

Bartlett,

whose crayon had the good fortune

to escape the

cannon of

the fort.*

Speaking of the primitive simplicity which characterises the inhabitants of the

romantic valley of St. Martin, a native writerf has the following passage
*

He

strict

was challenged, however,

\>j

the sentinel, and conducted into the presence of the

scrutiny and certain costs paid to the veteran

J. Bresse, Hist, des Vaudois.

who conducted him, allowed

to

: "

Tlie

resume

officer, but, after

his journey.

PROSELYTISM.

ANECDOTE.

authors of poems and romances, in giving

71

enchanting descriptions of pastoral

ilieir

have excited a feeling of deep regret in sensitive minds that the originals
But I can solace those friends
of their pictures are no vi^here to be found.
of innocence and virtue by showing them where they may really find what

life,

they have vainly sought after in other parts of the world

innocence

is

no other than the Valley of

St.

Martin.

and that asylum of

There may be seen

shepherdesses, in every sense of the word, as amiable and interesting as the

continues, " had lived

among them

a lively tint to his portraits

scripts

Estelle and Galatee,"

If the delightful author of

heroines of romance.

and

from nature and truth."

as I have done,

more charming

these the

..."

as being real tran-

Imagine," he adds,

vanity or pretension grace without frivolity

and

he

he might have added many

" virtue vsdthout

amiability without coquetry,

set off by that true modesty which their simple habits inspire and
you have a genuine picture of our Vaudois heroines. Had I been bom a poet,"
he concludes, " these should have formed my theme."

and these

Having spoken in a preceding page of the system of proselytism

by the laws of the country, we annex the following anecdote
of the fact.*

girl,

little

and brought up under

as sanctioned
as illustrative

the daughter of Vaudois parents in this Valley,

their eye

seven years old, had been allowed to

till

She was

associate familiarly with the children of their Catholic neighbours.

tempted, however, says our authority, even at this early age, by various allurements, to renoimce her baptism; and, occasionally, serious arguments took
place on the subject between the priest and those engaged to

of Vaudois children.

The

child

was

clever,

make

converts

and having been well grounded

in the principles of the Vaudois creed, resisted for a long time

her
the solicitations employed to entrap her infant mind, and concealed from
mother the promise which had been extorted from her, " not to divulge any

by her pastor

thing that had been said to her by the priest

length, terrified

by the

and her playmates." But, at

by which they endeavoured

threats of eternal punishment

to accelerate her conversion, she revealed the

whole to her mother.

quarrel

between the opposite parents was the consequence, and the girl was removed
here she
to the house of a pastor at some distance, who was a relation, and
remained for some time in apparent security. At the end of the vintage,
however, a supper was given in the
with the rest of the family.
nate,

field,

and the child permitted

But when the

rural

to enjoy herself

merriment was about

to termi-

and the party to disperse, twenty or thirty armed men suddenly rushed

into the circle, and forcibly carried her

off.

The only explanation

* Histor. Details, p. 73.

ever given

THE WALDENSES.

72

was, that the girl had voluntarily embraced the Catholic faith, and therefore

This armed force,

belonged to other guardians.

as

afterwards appeared,

it

acted luider the sanction of the bishop of Pignerol.

Petitions were presented

by the bereaved parents, but in vain

unread or disregarded, and

was at

informed that

last

it

liis

was not

they remained

seven years afterwards that the father

till

When

daughter was in a convent at Novara.

old

enough, she became a novitiate, subsequently a nun, and was then permitted
to vvrite to her

mother

her

letters,

were not of her o%vn dictation.

however, evinced sufficient evidence that they

In 1805, when she must have been upwards

of twenty years of age, the abbess wrote to say that she had been carried off

by

fever.

But

was suspected she was only removed

it

some

at that time to

other convent, lest she should have been restored by means of the French,

who

were then masters of the country, and the avowed friends of the Waldenses.

The mother was

of

it

without

so

overcome by the bereavement that she could never speak

tears.

It continued to

prey upon her mind,

till

her health being

gradually undermined, she dropt into a consumption, and died soon after her

The unhappy

daughter's untimely fate was announced.

girl,

it

is

stated

by

the same authority, had an advantageous offer of marriage during her novitiate,

from a young Catholic nobleman of good fortune, but on her refusing to accept

him

for her husband,

It

is

no alternative was

left

Catholic clergy, the Vaudois pastors are

for

but to take the

remarkable, that while this system of violence

making a

liable

to the

convert, while the convert himself may,

be brought to the stake.*

is

veil.

resorted to by the

most severe penalties

by the existing

But, in the midst of dangers and

both pastor and proselyte might

laws, (1825,)

sacrifices

which

sin-ink to encounter, it is pleasing to record

such acts of christian intrepidity as the following.

pastor on the right bank

made some healthy impression on the mind of a Catholic

opposite side, and finding him sensibly touched by his exhor-

of the Clusone having

subject on the
tations

from the pulpit, resolved

to profit

by the circumstance, and bring

half converted hearer to a thorough conviction.

for

some time by concert

when

hour of interview

For

this

his

purpose they met

but on the evening, or rather midnight

their

the good intention was expected to reach

accomplishment, and the pastor to add one more name to his

flock,

usual

its

full

a sudden

storm in the Alps had swollen the torrent of the Clusone to such magnitude
that
its

all possibility

channel,

of intercourse was apparently cut

deluged the

neighbouring

fields.

off,

The

and the
pastor,

river, leaving

however,

promised to keep the meeting, and must redeem his pledge at every
.

Gilly.

had
risk.

POMARET.

To

have shrunk back at this

in that Being,

who,

it

critical

PEYRAN.

73

moment, would have belied

might be supposed, had sent

and could deliver his servant who did not

his faith,

this

his confidence

storm for the

sacrifice the sense

trial

of

of duty

to that of personal safety.

Hastening to the spot, he plunged resolutely into the torrent, and for some
time was borne downward with a force which no

could counteract.

skill or effort

But, with a strength sufficient for the struggle, and a courage upheld by a good

he stemmed the surge, and

conscience,

Tliis heroic act, as it

shore.

him

may be

in the estimation of his convert.

"

He

on the forbidden
little

to exalt

could not be otherwise than sincere,"

" who had encountered so much personal hazard

said he,

cerity

at length landed

imagined, contributed not a

to evince

that sin-

nor could he be otherwise than under the special protection of Heaven,

who had

thus cheerfully exposed his

life

in its service,

and escaped destruction."

Before dawn, the confirmation of his neophyte was complete

again commending

liis

and the pastor,

convert to God, and committing himself to the stream,

own hearth by sunrise.*

PoMARET, the first Protestant settlement

reached his

named, probably, from

of the

defile.

by rocky

It is

precipices

its

orchards,

is

in

the Yal-St. Martin,

and so

picturesquely situated at the entrance

washed by the torrent of the Germanasca, and flanked

and \ineyards, which confer a Rhenish character upon

The rugged escarpments which defend it on the north resemble,

the remams of rviined battlements, mantled with vines,

the scene.

on various

points,

sprinkled with patches of cultivation, and thus presenting an aspect of

fertility

The

and desolation.

interest the inquisitive stranger

is

chiefly

village,
;

distinctly

considered,

offers

mixed

little

to

Waldensian controversy,

but, to the readers of

remarkable in modei-n times as the parochial residence of Jean Rodolph

Peyran, late moderator of the Valleys, whose tomb, in the newly enclosed
cemetery,

is

a never-failing object of attraction. +

The adventure recorded, liowever, was scarcely more fonnid.^ble than what is uniformly encountered
during the winter months by several of the Waldensian pastors in the discharge of their ministerial functions^

Take

for

example the communication between Prali and Rodoret, which the worthy pastor has
But of this hereafter.

to

keep up

durinK the whole winter in preaching to his congregations in both places.

The

character of this learned and pious minister is thus expressed on the marble slab, within the porch of
the church, which commemorates his worth and labours.
t

S.

JoH.\NNIS R0DOI.PHI L.

ANNO SALUTIS

S.

M.

PbYR.VNI, qui post VIT..M .ll.ICHVM, NON

SUI,

OMNINO

STUDIO.S.\M, OBIIT

MDCCC.fXIU. JKTAT. SUi. LXXJI, EcCtBSLE VaI.LENSIS

PrESBYTKR ET MODERATOR; LiTERIS

NEQUAOUAM GI.OBIANS NISI IN CKUCE DOM. NOST. J. C. IN PATBUM ET
RELIGIONEM INTE.MERATA FIDE NOTfS; ANIMO ERGA O.MNES BENEVOLnS OPERJBUS INGEND, NON AUTEM
PKiMU.S, FEI.I.X. Nr BEXB.MERENTI, CITI VTVO DEKRANT FKRK OUNIA, DEESSBT KTIAM MORTUO TUMWLUS, HOC
TANDEM POSITO MAHJIORE CURAVIT ALIBNIGENA.

Hl'MANlS KT S.ICRIS APPRIME DOCl'US ;

THE WALDENSES.

74
" 'Stablished

The

in faith,

the interpreter of Heaven,

intrepid advocate of christian trutli

His days, his nights, to holy vigils given,

His age fulfilled the promise of his youth.
" Learned, like Paul, but

like the apostle, poor

Pining in health, with many cares perplexed ;

But, weaned from this dark world's corrupting store.
The Pastor's wealth was treasured in the next."

Peyran was a native of the Valleys of Piedmont, where,

\vith

honour

to

themselves and advantage to the church, both his father and grandfather had
filled

the same important

of Geneva, he returned
retired village.

office.

After completing his studies at the university

home and took upon him

the duties of pastor in this

In addition to these, his literary labours were prosecuted with

unwearied assiduity, in aU of which he discovered a fund of information and

diligence of research

The

which were not surpassed by any writer of his day.

extent and variety of profound topics thus embraced, and in every instance
illustrated

by a mass of

erudition,* are subjects of astonishment to

that the author pursued his studies in this alpine solitude, with

all

who

reflect

none of those

advantages which intercourse with society, extensive libraries, or enlightened

conversation so readily supply.

The worth and

and people with

abilities

whom

of

M. Peyran,

whilst

honourable to the pastors

he was immediately connected, did not escape the notice

of the late governor of the province.

His firm attachment

to the ancient line

of princes of the house of Savoy, evinced his loyalty as a subject; while his
zeal as a learned

and pious divine rendered him a model

for imitation.

On

one occasion, when passing through the north of Italy, Napoleon, so distinguished for his acute perception of character, proposed several questions to

Peyran on the antiquity and exploits of the Waldenscs questions to which

the Moderator was eminently qualified to reply.
The work, edited by the Rev. Thomas Sims'consisting of the Nouvelles Lettres sur les Vaudois, by
Peyran, or Historical Defence of the Waldenses affords ample proof of the indefatigable research, imand conclusive evidence with which the learned Moderator lias illustrated his subject.
These letters, which present so ample a fund of information, were written on the following occasion : During

partial examination,

the time that Napoleon usurped dominion over Italy, Cardinal Pacca having excited his displeasure, that
prelate was confined as a state prisoner in the fortress of Fenestrelle, already mentioned, and within a few
miles of the Moderator's residence at Pomaret. Anxious, during his imprisonment, to obtain correct informaChristians as the Waldenses, a short correspondence
tion respecting the tenets of so remarkable a body of

seems to have taken place between himself and M. Peyran, and led to the Letters, in which the author undertakes a regular historical defence of the ancient body of Christians over whom he presided. 5in.

M.

Sims, Editeur d'une partie de ses ouvrages, et genfreux bienfaiteur de nos Valle'es, qui

tombeau.

Muston,

liv.

i.

PEYRAN. LEGER.-

75

-VILLE SECHE.

After an illness endured with exemplary patience, he closed his earthly

only by
career at the age of seventy-two, and was attended to the grave, not
his

own

Roman

but by a great number of his

flock,

whom he

was endeared by a

spirit

of christian

When

circumstances had often called into exercise.

march through the

valley, threatened to

by prompt and earnest

Catholic neighbours, to

philanthropy wliich

recent

a hostile army, on

its

burn the town of Ferouse, Peyran,

French general, obtained

intercession with the

protection for the place, and thus secured from

its

his

Catholic inhabitants a well-

Son caracmerited tribute of respect and gratitude.* Speaking of Peyran"

" se rapprochait beaucoup de celui du celebre Paul-Louis
tere," says Muston,
Courier.

L'un

et I'autre ecrivains pleins

pamphlets admirables,

et des

des titres les plus simples.

On

Peyran

avait,

celui

de Vigneron.

de verve et

pages couvertes de science,

salt

ils

que Courier ne

comme

lui, cet esprit

une bonte d'ame peu commune.^f

Peyran has been succeeded in the pastoral

auteurs des

d'orig-inalite,

amaient a se qualifier

se donnait jamais

mordant

que

et caustique,

joint a

office

by M.

of Pomaret

Jalla,

whose parish comprises the hamlets of Vivian, Aimar Cerissieres, Faure, About,
Amfou, and Clots. The church is new, and erected, as already mentioned,

by foreign

contributions,

among which was

that of the

Continuing to ascend the valley, the next

observation

is

commune

Emperor Alexander.
deserving of particular

The

Ville Seche, the birth-place of the historian Leger.

village

surrounded by Alpine
occupies an accUvity on the left bank of the Germanasca,
qualities of tlie
scenery, and participating but sparingly in the productive

The vineyards of Pomaret are here succeeded by corn

which, with the track of mountain pastures adjoining, conOf the Leger family several
stitute the prmcipal resources of the inhabitants.
thus records
descendants still inhabit the paternal soil. The historian himself
of the storms
the circumstances which made the hour of his birth a presage
Ville Seiche,"
and persecutions which assailed him in after life. " I was born at

neighbouring valley.

and potatoe

fields,

See the work already named.

.
uof hie conversation, ana once took him in his
Co,.t Crotti, intendant of the province, was very fond
provoked a theological discu-ssion
and having introduced him to the episcopal palace,
officer
military
A
diocese.
the
bishop of
between the Moderator of the Vaudois, and the Roman Catholic
upon the address with which he could discuss most
of high rank and accompUshments, who prided himself
opportunity of enteru.g the lists with
sought
an
and
controversialist,
as
a
topics heard of Peyran's renown
determining to try his strength on ground
him The aged pastor was victor at every tilt. At last, the general,
and science of gunnery. But here, also, he
which he considered entirely his own, introduced the prijiciples
tbat he was more than a match for
candour
great
with
confessed
and
guard,
found Peyran equally upon his
" Excursions," in which the reader will find a rich ftuid of
him-Gillv's " Waldensian Researches,- and
work will not allow us to
and historical, to which the limited nature of our present
.

t The

carriage to Pignerol,

anecdote, personal

advert more fully.

See

also,

" Authentic Details of the Waldenses."

THE

76

-.VALDENSES.

says he, " on the second of February, 1615,* during one of the most tremen-

dous hurricanes ever remembered, and which imroofed the houses and uprooted
the

ti'ees.

which

'

To me

that storm was a presage of the furious shocks and tempests

the prince of the powers of the air 'f was preparing for

and under which

had certainly sunk, had not

my

my

destruction

house been built and

my

hopes firmly established on the Rock of Ages, which neither the winds can shake

On

nor the torrents undermine."

Near the Pont-de-la-Tour,

him.
his

perusing this passage of Leger, the reader

observe an evident allusion to the repeated attempts

\vill

enemies, on

more than one

made

to assassinate

wild pass in our ascent from Pomaret,

occasion,

lay in

ambush

to accomplish the

But, by the mercy of an overruling Providence, Leger was

diabolical design.

delivered from their hands, and reserved as a recording witness of that exter-

minating \'iolence to which his unhappy countrjanen were afterwards exposed.

The Church

M.

of Ville Seche, under the pastoral care of

includes the population of nine or ten adjoining hamlets

Rostaing, sen.,

namely, the communes

of St. Martin, Bovil, and Traverse, on one hand, and those of Fact, Serres,
and' Rioclaret,

During the troubles of 1560, the hamlet of

on the other.

much

Rioclaret was

harassed by

its

feudal

and Bonif.ice de

lords, Charles

Truchet, whose hostility to the Waldenses was evinced by secret machinations

On

and open violence.

one occasion,

while the latter were assembled at

worship, Charles Truchet, heading a strong detachment of armed accomplices,

directed his steps towards the church, in hopes of surprising the congregation,,

and obtaining violent possession of the pastor.

To prevent

he sent on before him certain renegades, who pretended

suspicion, however,

to resort thither

from

but whose instructions were to surround the preacher as

motives of piety,

so as to prevent the possibility of escape.

closely as possible,

This being

accomplished, and while the service of the day was going forward, Truchet
arrived in front of the church.

At

a given signal, one of the traitors, a powerfril

man, threw himself upon the pastor, M. Fran9ois, with the intention of securing

him

as his prisoner

effort,

by the

but the

latter,

who was

and disengaged his arm from the

insult

doubly aggravated

seeing the danger which thus

congregation, though

totallj'

also of robust frame,

traitor's grasp.

Roused

a sudden

to indignation

by the circumstances of time and place

menaced the sacred person of

made such head

and

their minister, the

unarmed, rushed pon the offenders.

of whatever feU in their way, they

made

Laying hold

against those violators of the

sanctuary, that the pastor was speedily rescued, and Truchet and his troops

driven in shame and discomfiture from the scene of their unhallowed enterprise.
'

:,eger,

P. II.

c.

26. p. ,'!.59.-id. 368-9.

+ Ejhesians,

li.

-2.

DEFEAT OF TRUCHET.

SUFFERINGS OF THE. VAUDOIS.

The

77

leader himself, Charles Triichet,* had nearly fallen a victim to the plot

he had so artfully devised.

He

proportions, and completely

armed

was an experienced
;

soldier,

but, in the violence with

tall,

of athletic

which he pushed

a villager, regardless of the death which seemed to await hun,

his adventure,

sprang upon the desperate noble, and, pinning him against the trunk of a

might there have strangled him.

seigneur of the

place,

he was,

by an

act of

ill-merited courtesy, suffered

Far, however, fi-om acknowledging this generous treatment,

to depart.

tree,

But, for the respect due to his quality as

his

hatred of the Waldenses was evinced by renewed persecutions, which were

only suspended by the payment of sixteen liundredf crowiis

to the oppressed

money

and already impoverished

received, than,

Truchet resumed

his

in

families.

an immense sum
But no sooner was the

open violation of the conditions solemnly

former course of unmitigated oppression.

On

ratified,

the second

of April, the same year, he arrived with an army, which he had obtained permission to levy at Nice, and began the work of devastation at the

Ms

route.

lives

by

The

inhabitants, stripped of

flying to the mountains,

only the dreadfid alternative

left

the mountain forests,

derers,

when

first

houses in

their property, could only save their

where many of them, without clothing, had

of falling by the sword,

among

if

they returned,

or,

They were pursued through

and wherever seen were fired upon. The band of plun-

they remained, of perishing

if

all

the snows.

fatigued with the exercise of their sanguinary orders, returned

homes of the fugitives, and there divided the spoil and indulged
Hunted from every hospitable corner of the Valley, and
exposed to the extremes of cold and hunger hardships which were rendered
doubly poignant by agony of mind, and the exhausting effects of that sleej^less
their sufferings were such as
terror which followed them into every recess
to the deserted

in riotous excess.

words cannot give utterance

minister,

to.

and another individual belonging

to the \illage of St. Martin,

having been taken prisoners during this lawless inroad, were conducted before
the

monks

of the abbey of Pignerol, and there burnt at the stake.

the most lively sympathy for the wretched fate of the survivors,
in hiding

among

cause, about four

the mountains, and exhorted

hunched of their friends and

out for that purpose.

by

Moved with
who were still

the pastors to espouse their

relations

from Val-Clusone

set

This detachment was headed by the pastor Martin, who.

* " Charles Tni'set, or Truchet, lord of a Certain town callel Rirclaret, a man of great strength, most daring,
in arms from his very cliildhood, bu! one generally reputed most utout in action."
See Lentul. Neapolitan. Cambridge MSS.
t Muston, i. 25; but. according to others, sixteen thousand crowns. Scipio Lentulus. Gilly, Append. viL

and not only exercised

THE WALDENSES.

lb

like " Moses leading his army of

falling

Hebrews

in the desert," halted at intervals,

and

on his knees in front of his troop, invoked the blessmg of Heaven on

their fraternal enterprise.

Continuing their march, they came at length

The

sight of the depredators.

conflict

The

commenced.

in

force under Truchet,

although strongly posted, and prepared for the attack, were completely routed,*

and the wi-etched inhabitants restored to their desolate hearths.

Maneille, like the hamlet of Ville Seche,

and embosomed in scenery

it

more

we have

the tract through which

behind divides

still

situated on a

mountain

slope,

The chain of mountains

already proceeded.

from the Val-Pragelas.

or white rock, a mountain so

is

alpine in character and productions than

Nearly opposite

named from

its fine

is

the Rocca-Bianca,

white marble, conspicuous

at a great distance.

This country abounds in excellent marble, most of which,

in closeness of grain

and brilliancy of colour,

of Paros, or Carrara

but the great

the possibility of working the quarries to

years, however, the attempt to

in the Valleys, J

oleaginous

comparison with that

transport precludes almost

Within the

advantage.

tliese treasures available,

is

and

feel,

a quarry of

talc,

two

last

has been resumed

and with the prospect of rendering the enterprise

In the same locality

its

make

will bear

difficulty of

successful.

jnerre douce, so called on accoiuit of

friable consistence.

It furnishes, nevertheless, blocks,

extremely compact and durable, out of which the iidiabitants form excellent
kitchen utensils.

it

GiJles,

TrucliL't- !

was

cli. A'li

littk'

\']>

''''
'

',

Muston, liv. i.
torn. ii.
of about six hundred men, on that side of the mountain where
Lome, advanced with his men to the top of a mountain where he
This observed, the latter, pouring out prayers before the Lord

'riiti.uii liist.

M.-isting

III

overlooked tliL ,:..., i; li.iC.i, i.; \, ..l^lu.i: lis.

they had always a uiiiusLer oi the gospel along with them marched courageously towards the enemy,
who, in full anticipation of an easy victory, came down with much apparent mirth to receive them. As soon,
however, as the main body w.'is engaged, six Vaudois slingers, by a passage known only to themselves, gained
immediate possession of the crest of the mountain, which the enemy, believing it to be inaccessible from any
other point, had just abandoned. Thus, taking the invaders on the rear, and rushing domi upon them with
.

for

irresistible

tlie Waldenses became invinmarch toivards the scene of conflict, the

impetuosity, their strength was broken and paralysed, while that of

cible.

At

enemy

instantly fled

this critical
;

moment, the auxiliary

force appearing in full

but the snow at this time being nearly two feet deep, and the defiles intricate and

and part were skughtered by the pursuers. With

respect to Truchet, having had his leg broken in the milie by a stone, he was led in this disabled state between
two of his soldiers but the victors pressing hard upon them, and having received a second womid fiom a
sling, he was deserted by his soldiers, and finally despatched with his own sword by a peasant.
See the work
above quoted also. Append, vii. Gill;/. Cambridge MSS. Vol. P.
i " Si nous avons encore le bonheur que vous honoriez notre pays d'une visite, et comme vous vous inti?ressez
aux particularit^s d'histoire naturelle, nous pourrions visiter ensemble les carrieres de marbre noui^ellement
inises en ceuvre, dans la vallie de St. Martin, et comme notre climat participe par sa nature aux climats chauds,
deceitful, part, of the fugitives fell

headlong over the rocks,

temp^r^s, et froids, on poiu-rait dans les

climats," &c. iic. Extract from
'
plis

Ayant

pris

memes

courses, trouver des plantes appartenantes a ces ditferents

a Letter addressed

to the

Author. Aw/. 1836.

un jour quelques fragmens d'un pared vase

de crlstallisations pentae'driques, noires et bnuies,

comme

qui avail subi Taction

le

pyroxene et

du

feu, je les trouvai

la tourmaline.

Je ne

sais

rem-

pas

ai

M. TRON. THE

MACEL.

BALSILLE.

In a survey of these Valleys, however, no object

mind

recollections in the stranger's

as the Balsille

narrow valley of Macel, and immortalized by the

The approach

the Waldensian exiles.

many

stirrinsj

rock towering up

sufferings

enter a gorge, where there

hai'dly space left

is

For some distance, indeed,

it

is

formed

by nature

the

and triumphs of

to this natural fortress is

rugged and

After descending into the valley by a wild alpine track,

picturesque.

path.

79

calls forth so

we

for constructing a

by planks of timber,

chiefly

similar to those employed, for the like pm-pose, in various parts of Switzerland.

To this portion of the way succeeds

men stationed among the rocks might
from

the valley opens on

pass,

this

Protestant settlement

house presents

a deep wooded

defile,

where a handful of

arrest the progress of an army.

a mountain

hamlet

Emerging

Macel,

another

soon after which the unusual feature of a large handsome

a contrast in this alpine region.

itself as

This

is

the residence

who make annual

every acknowledgment.
Beyond this,

of a gentleman whose hospitality to strangers,

pilgrimages

through this pass, merits

the Balsille

takes possession of the scene, and fiUs the

in

history on which

its

it is

to reflect without emotion.

It consists of a conical

angle where two valleys unite

in the Col-du-Pis

Mount
point,

is

namely,

mass of rocks, rising at the

that of the Germanasca, terminating

Thus

situated, it is of diflicult access

another gratifying monument to the philanthropic exertions

The approach from

of Colonel Beckwith, and other friends of the Waldenses.

presented

very steep, and

difliculties of

when

protected by strong barricades, must have

the most formidable character.

thing very remarkable in

it

from aU but one

that just above the small village of Balsille, where a school has

been lately erected

this village is

incidents

and another, traversed by a torrent which descends from

Guignevert.

which

mind with those marvellous

impossible for the reader of Waldensian heroism

its

The mountain has some-

general appearance, and such as readily distinguishes

It consists of several precipices, rising successively above

fi-om all others.

each other, and fringed with straggling pine-trees.

The

vestiges of

its

intrench-

ments, however, are either very imperfect, or such as can only be detected by

The "

minute inspection.
arrest a

common

their defenders,
Balsille, is

is

imperishable.

and every thing in

The rock

this

form that could

memory,

like that of

called the chateau, or castle of the

occupied by only two or three huts, and commands the narrow Valley

of the Germanasca.

ce phenomene," adds

From

It is

the village, the Col-du-Pis

M. Muston, " se

a une grande chaleur." Liv.

not clastic.

barricades,"

observer, have disappeared; but their

much

softer

i.

p. 23.

is

seen to advantage

and

remarquer dans toutes les pierrea semblables, qui ont t soumisea

Talc nearly resembles mica in appearance ; the plates are flexible, but
; hence its use in the manner described.

fait

than mica, and ?wt fusible

THE WALDENSES.

80

on the

side of the distant

mountain, a beautiful cascade throws an animated

feature into the landscape.*

After a casual survey of this celebrated Rock, the space appears so confined,

and disproportionate

to the great

brought together for

its

arise in the spectator's

mind

records on this subject are

to

number of

reduction, that

impugn, and impossible to controvert.

vided with

all

amount of

as to the actual

supported by

French and Piedmontese,

troops,

some degree of scepticism

authorities

That

so small a

it

apt to

is

But the

that force.

which

would be rash

body of men,

ill-pro-

that could be considered indispensable for successful resistance,

should so long have held at bay the combined forces of France and Piedmont,

has been treated by some as an extravagant

that a

band of

exiles,

fiction.

But

that they did so

entrenched behind barricades on these rugged escarpments,

not only maintained their post like an impregnable citadel, but often repulsed
the besiegers at the point of the sword, are facts too well established, by the
existing

records of those

their

existence in a

suffering

guard

manner

and privation.

labouring

at

who shared

in the struggles,

to

be shaken by any

Here, during a whole winter, these exiles prolonged

discordant testimony.

wliicli

human

approaches the very extreme of

Sheltered in huts excavated in the rocks

the fortifications

they

mounting

were supported by the scanty

supply of wheat gathered with great difficulty from under deep snow, which was
thus preserved for their support, the unharvested products of the

was often

their only storehouse, and, as they felt

and believed, a

field.

This

special inter-

For, had not winter interrupted

position of Divine Providence in their favour.

the regular process of reaping, the exiles could not have maintained their position

must have fallen victims to famine, disease, or the sword.

But He who provided manna in the desert for the Hebrews, provided a harvest

in the Balsille, but

in winter for the persecuted Waldenses.

In digging the ground around

of war are often discovered

this hardly contested spot,

relics

were so unhappily employed.

broken implements

of that disastrous conflict

But, as

we

more fully in a future portion of the work,

shall

in

which they

have to notice the Balsille

we now proceed

to other features

intimately connected with the subject.

Here,

as

Switzerland,

in

the

mountain

districts,

which

are

exclusively

used for pasture, are termed alps; and here the breeding of cattle and the

produce of the dairy are the principal sources of rural wealth.

* Bresse compares

it

to the Pizevache in tlie Vallais, (See

pitates itself in greater volume.

vista

towards the Col-du-Pis.

That

in the

The Alp of

Switzerland Illustrated ; ) but the

Valley of Macel

is

particularly striking, from

latter preci-

its

closing the

SI

MANEILLE. --rRALI.
Guignevert, wliich immediately borders the gorge of the BalsiDe,

is

of this

Hither, as in other parts of the Valleys, the flocks aaid herds are

description.

conducted as soon as the summer

verdure replaces the snow, and pastured

the sj-mptoms of winter again usurp the scene, and compel

them

by degrees to those sheltered spots which enjoy a longer summer.

During

on these elevated pasture-lands

this period of the year, the scene presented

highly interesting, and exhibits a picture of

till

to descend

human

life

is

which an inhabitant of

the city can hardly imagme.

" Far o'er the steep the chalet glances dim.
Through clouds that gather on the glacier's rim

And here the cataractsin maniac wrath.

And share of foamploughs up its furious path
But, drained from fountains of eternal snow.
to flowers the verdant vale below."

Converts

Rodoret, like Macel, both of which formerly belonged to the parochial district
of JManeille, has

now

those spiritual

all

many and

its

o\to pastor,* and enjoys, in conuiion with

means of instruction

severe sacrifices.

The

for

neighbours,

village is situated in the centre of a small

by Fontaine, another hamlet

valley, closed

its

which the Waldenses have made so

and

in

the opposite direction are

those of Arnauds, Belassa, and a fine cascade, which

M. Muston

resembles that of Tourtemagne, in the road to Brigg, in the Vallais.

observes,

In the

intervening space between the BalsiUe and Rodoret, several villages give an
of cheerfulness to this alpine landscape each with some tradition of former

air

times: but of these,

the limits of our present work

preclude any detailed

account.

The scenery

of the Val-St. Martin changes frequently and rapidly from the

most harsh and rugged aspect

dous

clifis

and

most

to that of the

terrific precipices give

attractive beauty.

Stupen-

place to verdant and flowery spots

and

by the torrent side would bring us out of a deep

of rock, where our feet were bruised by the stones, to a bank of lavender,
green plateau of herby grass, soft as a carpet or to a sunny nook, where

a turn of the mountain path

cleft

or a

the

little

property of corn land

is

cultivated, like the patriarchal inheritances

of the ancient tribes of Israel, by father and son fi-om generation to generation.

The Germanasca, whose waters we have followed, was of the same changing
The deafening roar of its flood almost stunned us in some places
character.
and soon afterwards we came to a deep, still pool, of azui-e blue, where it seemed
*
ot

A;

M.

this time,

Jaila,

jun

however, the church of Rodoret wao vacant

thai o;

Macel was under

tlie

pastoral chaigi'

THE WALDEISSES.

8SJ

resumed

to rest for a while before it

as if

we could be tempted

Humphrey Davy's

impetuous course, and where we

its

felt

to sit for hours with Izaak Walton's Angler, or Sir

hands,

in our

Salraonia,

and there enjoy the repose of

the scene.*

The town

which borders on the French

of Prali,

territory,

is

the

only

remaining settlement in the Val-St. Martin which demands particular notice.

The country through which

the traveller reaches this from Rodoret, presents a

succession of pine-clad

the timber of which is of gigantic proportions, and,

hills,

with better means of transport, would yield a noble revenue to the country.

The

limited

is

around Prali

district

is

little

keen in proportion

Its climate is

to

little

corn

favourable to the labours of agriculture.

to its elevation

chiefly

rye

the produce, consequently,

potatoes,

and the more ordinary

garden vegetables; but milk and honey, the poetical symbols of plenty, are
abundant.^
" Here, in those flowery pastures where the bee.

Alights with every breeze,

and banquets

And summer, in her brief profusion,

On rock and dell the perfume of the

The commune

of Prali has had

former times, the

Valleys.

by

spirit

its full

free

throws
rose."

share in those disasters by which, in

of persecution manifested itself in every district of the

Early in the summer of 1488, with the view of taking the inhabitants
risk of

and avoiding the

surprise,

Catholics descended,

open rencontre, about seven hundred

says Gilles, like a torrent fi-om the north-west frontier,

and swept on towards the small town of Pommiers. Here, however, the
watched their movements, were prepared to give

inhabitants, having narrowly

them

man

wann

reception

and

falling

to record their enterprise.

upon them sword

in hand, left only one

This individual, the standard-bearer of his

escaped during the milee, threw himself into a torrent,

the

channel of which he followed under a mass of snow, not yet melted,

and

party, having

there remained concealed,

retreat,

Gilly,

till

cold and hunger forcing liim from his miserable

he threw himself on the mercy of the people.

This obtained, he was

Waldejis. Research, pp. 496-7.

ofFrent sur leur tronc de petites mousses, en bouquets, d'un jaune dor admidevelopp&s, qui pendent a leurs branches, en tongues barbes de capncin, noires,
prennent toute cette derniere couleur." AfKs(<m, p. 19.
On the descent from the Col-de-Balme Inwards the Vallais in Switzerland, the gigantic pines, with which the
These pendulous mossy tufts are eagerly sought after
precipices are there lined, exhibit similar phenomena.
t

" Ses melezes,

rable.

II

y en a

du

cote

du Julien,

d'autres, plus

grises, et verdatres; lorsqu'elles sontmouille'es, elles

by the chamois, in the depth of ivinter, as the only vegetable product within their reach.
resemblance of this excrescence is very close, and hence its name of " Barbe de Capucin."
J

Gardioles

is

The

beard-like

the village which, by reputation, has the most bees, and the best flavoured honey in the Valleja.

ARNAUD.

THE CHURCH OF PRALI.

suffered to quit

the place without molestation,

and conveyed the important

who promote

violence against others, are not

lesson to his countrymen, that those

unfrequently

00

victims, or

its

..."

Left, but as a very prey to time,

Having no more but thought of what they were
torture them the more, being what they are"
..." So just is God to right the innocent."

To

Among

the heights south of Prali, are the twelve small lakes formed by the

melting of the snows in the surrounding Col-St.-Jidien.

made by

halt

In the church of Guigou they met for the

mountains.

thanks to

and

Prali

was the

first

the exiles in 1689, on their triumphant entry into their native

Him who had

first

time to render united

brought tliem through innumerable

at last planted their feet

trials

and

suflTerings,

tliey

had

their exile, the church

had

on that sacred threshold from which

been expelled by the edge of the sword.

During

been converted into a Catholic chapel, and the simple forms of the Waldensian

The

worsliip replaced

by the show and ceremony of the Romish church.

images of

and the symbols announcing the change which had defaced

saints,

their ancient temple,

had

filled

and

its

their

met the

exiles at the porch.

Another race of worsliippers

sanctuary, where the Waldensian

faith

was now denomiced,

adherents formally proclaimed outlaws to the state, and outcasts from

Entering the venerated temple

the church of Christ.

that

primitive altar

before which their fathers had so long worshipped at the peril of their lives
the exiles employed

some minutes

removing

in

fi-om its place every object that

belonged to the forms and ceremonies of Catholic worship.

Having

thus,

as

they believed, purified the place for the solemn act of thanksgiving about to

commence, the

ser^-ice

began by singing the seventy-fourth psalm, so well

adapted to their circumstances.

After

threshold, so as to be heard distinctly

his station, and, in a

this,

band who had obeyed him

Arnaud, placing a plank on the

by those within and without, there

sermon well suited

and now Ustened

words, as their pastor, with feelings to which

ance.

to his

glowing

no language could give utter-

In the whole course of this daring expedition, during which Arnaud

and his followers were thrown into such varied and dangerous
no epoch so affectmg

is

took,

to the occasion, addressed the heroic

as their captain,

no circumstance that presents

positions, there

materials for so sti-iking

a picture, as this.

Previously

to. the

discharged by
"

M.

time in question, the pastoral duties of Guigou had been

Leidet,*

till,

having been detected in the act of private

He

was taken by an armed band, and conducted before the marquess of Angrogne, near Luzern
where the duke of Savoy was residing at the time and there shut up in a tower of tlie palace. .
Here

in

devotion
his

God under

raising his voice to the praise of

house, for the singing of psalms was an

infallible

was apprehended and carried before the inquisitors

a solitary rock near

proof of heresy

hs

answer for his offence.

to

Questioned on the subject, he avowed, the fact; and, on refusing to abjure his
religion,

was condemned and executed

in 1686, as

an obstinate heretic.

at the fort of St. Michael, near

Luzem,

His death was a noble lesson of christian

fortitude.
" In his calm look, where heaven's pure light was shed.

They saw no fear no recreant symptoms read

Nor passing trait of sordid earth could trace
:

But, in the

jiale

repose that

lit

his face,

There shone that placid light, those tints that lie

Like Hope entranced on summer's evening sky;
That softened radiance which the sunset flings
O'er the fair frame. work of terrestrial things;
That glory which, withdrawn from human eyes.
Sets with the promise of a brighter rise

Nor papal curse, nor torture could control.

Faith on his soul
Spread forth her shadowless her sunny wing.
4nd from the spoiler plucked the dreaded sting."
His mind's deep majesty

Leger,

the

celebrated historian above

church of Prali, with

mentioned,

annexe, Rodoret, and

its

first

was

also

pastor of the

entered on the arduous

duties of his office in September 1639, with an injunction to preach fom- times
a week.

One Sunday,

in the

month of February, while on

his

way

to preach

Rodoret, he was caught in a tourmente, or snow-storm, and suffered so

at

dreadfidly from the elTects of cold, that the most serious apprehensions were

entertained for his recovery.

circumstances,

is

curious,

His own account of the accident, and

its

attendant

and expressed in the following terms.*

he continued for several months, existing on bread and water, so heavily loaded with fetters that he could
not lie down. The monks, who incessantly attacked him on the subject of his religion, determined that

he should either renounce

its

doctrines, or die as

an example

to others

Their arguments and threatened

The auditor Salvay

vengeance, as usual, entirely failed, and the sentence of execution was passed.

pronounced the fatal words, which Leidet heard with marked composure of resignation
On quitting his
prison,
This day,' said he, ' brings me double deliverance it releases my body from captivity, and my
soul from its corporeal prison; it breaks my earthly bands, and gives me an inheritance with the saints
in light
those who, through much tribulation, iidierit the kingdom of heaven.' He mounted the scaffold

'

with a holy joy and invincible resolution, despising alike the pardon offered him on condition of apostasy, and
had surrounded with additional terrors. At the foot of the scaffold, he prayed

that death which his enemies

with such fervour, says the same authority, and with such an expression of calm resignation in his features,
that even those most familiar with such spectacles were deeply affected

by

his language

and manner.

His

words were, ' Into thy hands, O God, I commit my spirit.' Even the monks, who had never left him fi'om
the day of his imprisonment, and were now witnesses of his martyrdom, confessed that he had died like a
saint."
Manuscript Biography of " D.4V1D MoudDn, capitaine vaudois.'"
last

"

Partant tout seul des Prals un dimanche au point du jour pour aller faire le

unelieue d'AUemacme de

la,

comme

I.

preche au Kndorct, a

je traversais la colline (ju'on .appelle la Tracenea, je fus accueilli d'un

yh

5.

-^.^j

COMMUNE OF
The

pastoral duties of Prali are

by M. Peyran, nephew of the

have already adverted.
widely scattered;

The

late

PRALI.

now

AVALANCHE.

85

dischai-ged \vith great zeal

ability

Moderator, to whose invaluable labours we

parish comprises the population of thirteen hamlets

but, in this country, neither distance nor danger can deter

the inhabitants from regular attendance on the ordinances of religion

doubly endeared to them by the recollection of past

sacrifices.

church, which replaced that of Guigou, and in wliich service

a building of very

is

and

humble

exterior,

much

gation to substitute a more durable structure

be the work of foreign contributions.

It is

is still

present

performed,

and requiring consi-

dilapidated,

But the means

derable outlay to afford even a temporary accommodation.

their disposal are far too limited to enable the

a religion

The

at

worthy pastor and his congre-

and

if

such

exposed to

is

all

to

be done,

it

must

those dangers which

climate and situation render so formidable in Alpine cormtries.

The

following account of a melancholy catastrophe, as related to the author,

shows with what imminent danger the communication

long winter in these dreary solitudes.

men

They were

reacliing Prali, their native

strongly ad\dsed not to attempt so dangerous an enterprise,

which, there was too

personal risk.

kept open during the

is

the 11th of March, 1832, eighteen

Pomaret with the intention of

started from

place.

On

much

cause to apprehend, could not be accomplished without

These poor

fellows,

however, were too

safety of their families at Prali to consult their

ovm

much concerned
security,

for the

and, listening

only to the voice of affection which called them home, resolved to confront the
storm.

had continued

It

to

snow

for several days previously, and, fearing that

might overwhelm their huts and families

it

avert the danger, the duty to return

were well acquainted with the road, but,

obliterated,

they were not on the spot to

at this time, all traces of a road

and they proceeded along the

with which their eyes were familiar.

if

became sacred and imperative.

defile,

fiirieux tourbillon lie vent,

were

guided by those landmarks

Various circumstances occurred in succession

which had almost confirmed the worst predictions of their

si

They

que j'en fus longteras roul^ parmi

les iieiges oil

fi-iends at

je perdis

Pomaret:

mon chapeau; mais

m'en ayant prete' un autre je

ne tarda gueres de se
mon chemin arrivfi que je
fus au Rodoret, je d^gelay bien un peu ma pauvre tete aupres du feu, mais cela n'empecha pas que quelques
semaines apres je ne fusse alitte tout a plat, et si rudement travaille' d'une aposteme que tous les medecins

nomm^ la Ville, \in Barbe Z)amrf Guigou

comme ma tete avait este d^tremp^ parmi

arrive'queje fusau village

ancien,

passay outre; cependant

les neiges, elle

trouver garni d'un bonnet de glace, avec laquelle je ne laissay pas de poursuivie

me contassent entre les morts ; mes oreilles itoient si fort enflSes qu'elles avoient
de deux doigts mes machoires estoient si ferme'es, qu'il n'estoit pas possible de m'ouvrir
pouvoir mettre quclcjue cueillerde de bouillon dans la bouclie si bien que pour le faire avec
une canule d' argent, le sieur Laurens mon oncle trouva bon de me rompre une dent macheliere, parce, disjiit-il,
Dieu est tout puissant pour le relever encore, et il auroit encore besoin en tel cas des dents de devant pour

qu'on

piit

consulter ne

I'^paisseur de plus
les

dents pour

precher.

me

Enfin eette aposteme creve'e se poussa hors par les oreilles comme par les seringues,-et j'en
ressuscite."
Leger. Abregee de sa Vie ; from the edition of 1 fi69.

Dieu merci, comme

fus,

Ob

THE WALDENSES.

but ha\'ing thus

far

escaped without injury,

gained courage as they

they

approached home, where their presence was so much needed, and the pleasure

They had

so little expected.

them, wliich,

most

if

however, one or more perilous steps before

still,

once overcome, would place them out of

to be di-eaded

only a few minutes' walk from Prali

proceeded without hesitation.

precipices, the base of

The snow

The

danger.

all

spot

called the biidge of marble, which, in fine weather, is

is

which

is

At

but, apprehending

this

point

the

no actual

risk,

they

path winds along rugged

undermined by a deep and impetuous

torrent.

lay deep to the very brink of the gorge, and required great precau-

newly-formed crust of snow should slip from the

more hardened layer beneath, and carry them down with it into the torrent.
tions, lest, in proceeding, the

To

effect this, the

at the

base, the

velocity

weight of their bodies would have sufficed; and, once loosened

mass from above would precipitate

which no human

effort could

resist.

proposed to make the passage by ascending a

the risk; but the thirteen

who were

itself

Aware

with a force and

of this, some of them

little

higher, and thereby diminish

in advance

oven-uled the proposal, and

continued their progi'ess without further halt or consultation.

still

falling

tliick,

became almost

invisible.

however, and. the flashing of the spray at

steps;

and

in this

The snow was

and so dense a mist covered the surrounding mountains,

that the nearest objects

The rushing of

tlieir feet,

the torrent,

served as guides to their

manner they wound slowly along the slippery brink.

Habi-

tuated from infancy to these dangerous passes, their nerves were not shaken

by ominous anticipations

more

particularly as they could

now

the spot at which their fatigues and anxieties were to terminate;

serving

that

the midst of this apparent security

an

the avalanche, paralysed every heart

well-known signal struck

are lost

current;

!"

and

by pre-

profound silence so indispensable where avalanches are to be

apprehended, they had nearly emerged from the

we

almost descry

liis

ear,

defile.

But, in an instant

in

ice-cold blast, the certain precursor of

The

leader of this devoted band, as the

exclaimed in a voice of despair, " Great God,

The next moment

all

were thrown prostrate by the

resistless

and the avalanche, following with the rapidity of lightning, swept

thirteen of the party into the bed of the torrent, and there, blocking
course, buried

up

its

them under the snowy deluge.*

* This avalanche is said to fall only once every four or five years, and to collect at a great distance up the
mountains. So long as the soft and dusty snow remains attached to the fir-trees, avalanches may begenerally
apprehended in those defiles more particularly subject to this dreadful scourge. Though always to be
dreaded so long as the snow remains soft, they are most so at the commencement of a thaw. When the snow
happens to fall upon the frozen crust of the old layer, it forms lavanges with much greater facility than when
it meets with a thawed surface.
When the higher mountains are covered with recent or continued snow, as
in the disaster here recorded, and when the wind, or some other occurrence, happens to detach some of the
flakes, these very frequently fall along the slope of the rocks, and there, collecting for some time, become of

87

DEATH BY AN AVALANCHE.
111

first

the mean time, the five who had lingered some paces behind, and at the
moment of apprehension had thrown themselves upon their faces,* thereby

by which

their

comrades in advance had been overwhelmed.

When

one had a most remarkable escape.

long, he

tremendous force

to the descending mass, escaped the

offering less resistance

Of

the latter,

the whole party were swept head-

was forced by the weight of snow into a small

crevice,

hollowed in

and there, sheltered from the avalanche, it passed over

him without injury, leaving him a solitary mourner over the tomb of his
companions.
After the survivors had partially recovered from the consternation
the hard under-crust

of the

able to look around them, they perceived at

moment, and were

human hand

distance a

some

projecting through the snow; and, hastening towards

the spot, had the happiness to rescue, but with difficulty, another victim from
the frozen mass.

The

now reduced

survivors,

to seven, out of

who had

the eighteen

started

together in the morning full of health and fortitude, stood for some time gazing

with intense agony on the snow-deluge beneath them, waiting for some further
indications of

life

some voice or sign by which they might have hoped to rescue

yet another of their unhapp}"^ comrades from the grave

hope was

The

left.

stillness of

but not a symptom of

death settled over the spot

and, recalled at

own immediate danger, they consulted for a moment

The safest, and by far the shortest way, was to have

length to a sense of their

how they should

act.

proceeded forward to Prali

but so bewildered were their minds by the awful

catastrophe wliich had just befallen their companions, that they had not resolution to advance and communicate the dreadful tidings, but returned panic-

struck and oppressed on the road to Rodoret and Gardiole villages through

which they had already passed.

Here, their diminished number and exhausted

appearance soon told the melancholy tidmgs.

The alarm

spread,

and every

an immense magnitude before they burst from their perch. These are what are called in the Alps of Savoy
and Switzerland cold lavanges. Beside this, there are the spring and summer avalanches, an account of which
the reader will find in our late worlc of Switzerland Illustrated, French and German editions of which
are

now published.

The approach of an avalanche is uniformly preceded by a dreadful hollow roaring, like that of thunder, and
announced by a stream of frozen air, to which the violent concussion and sudden disrupture of the snowy mass
have given the momentum of a leaden torrent. Thus sui-prised, the resistance of human strength is but as a
straw opposed to the cataract, and the traveller is thrown prostrate in an instant. It has occasionally happened, however, that, by taking advantage of the first intimation, and flying to some protected point, he

has escaped destruction.

The

least noise,

it is

well known,

to observe strict silence.

otf,

As a

is

sufficient to

detach an avalanche, and in dangerous passes

it is

advisable

precaution, the bells carried round the necks of mules used formerly to be taken
any suspected part of the road, and a pistol fired into the air, in order

or stuffed with hay, on approaching

to provoke,

The same

by

concussion, the

precautions are

still

fall

to

the limited district under notice.

SpUighen, the reader

will find

of the avalanche before the travellers exposed themselves to the danger.

be recommended under similar circumstances, though rarely necessary in
In the author's account of the passage of the: French army across the

some curious

fiicts

respecting avalanches.

THE WALDENSES.

8S

limb that could be exerted in the cause of humanity rushed to the fatal spot.

During three days, about sixty men were constantly employed in excavations
snow to recover the bodies of the victims, most of which were found

in the

at a great depth

When

under the surface.

conveyed to Prali, the scene of

and

the whole were extricated

such as has been

that followed was

distress

rarely vntnessed or described, even in this land

where death has been so often

exhibited under the most appalling features.

Wlien the bodies were exposed

and each of the bereaved families came to claim "

to view,

saw before them the

lifeless

parted in health and joy

home had

to

kindred had

untimely

led

them

stifled

sacrifice,

forms of those with

when

warnings

the

their dead,"

all

personal danger

of experience,

they were poignantly

afliicted.

and

that

given

the love of

cause

The shock was

this

for

as severe

was sudden, and threw a sense of desolation over the whole valley;

as it

one had

evei-y

like this,

lost

a relation, a

and

they had so lately

they reflected that a too ardent attachment

undervalue

to

whom

fi-iend,

where the inhabitants are

isolated,

for

In a small community

or acquaintance.

not only by local circumstances,

but by their religious dissent from the world around them, the cords of natural
are

affection

dravm

passion and emotion

closer

friendships

practised in society of wider limits.

cares and sympathies

and

ness,

are

more

cultivated

Here, they

every member of wliich

is

live like

every gentler

one family of mutual

essential to the other's happi-

fi'om which, if but one drop away, the loss

is

Each, like connecting beams in the same structure,

all.

cherished vdth a truth and intensity which are Httle

is

felt

and deplored by

is

mutually depen-

dent on each, soothing, supporting, and encouraging one another.

these circumstances, the reader
into
It

at

which Prali

never

wiU

populous

easily picture in his

was

own mind

now plunged by

Under

the distress

this disastrous event.

had deprived them of what no circumstances could replace, and left a blank
the sacred altar, and at the cheerful hearth, which nothing could supply.

But

in the midst of this awful visitation their religion

martyrs

recalled those noble

scaffold, at the stake

new

trial

who had

martj'rs

it

was

had supported

their resource

in the dungeon,

they

on the

and bore with hereditary strength and resignation

When

of their faith.

the victims

grave

whom

the mournful

this

preparations were completed,

thus perished together, together were committed to one

to their

own

^irtuous affections, and leaving their epitaph in

the heart of every survivor.

The

district

through which we have

now

advanced, formed the principal

scene of operation during that extraordinary campaign by which the heroic

Amaud

and

his followers

re-established

tliemsclves

in

the Valleys.

Prali,

Rodoret, Ville-Seche, Perrero, and Pomaret, have each a place in the history

SERRE-LE-CRUEL.
of their achievements
less associated

Otf

while every remarkable feature in the landscape

But of

with their sufferings and triumphs.

these

we

is

more or
have

shall

occasion to speak more fully in a subsequent portion of the work.

To
Cruel

the tourist

who proceeds

across the Col-de-Julien to Bobi, the Serre-le-

Amaud

celebrated post of

object of peculiar attraction.

It

is

and
a

his victorious

out of the

little

followers wUl be an

common

track,

on the

rugged banks of the Subiasca torrent, but, once attained, all fatigue will be
forgotten, and the stranger feel himself repaid by one of the finest and most
It comprises the entire
extensive \'iews in the whole circuit of the Valleys.
basin of the Val Felice, from the Col-de-la-Croix above Bobi, to Villar ; the
fantastic meanderings of the river the road winding down the rugged flank of Col;

de-Julien
old

Monte Viso

raising

mind back

many

to those

is

historical facts, it invites contemplation,

fearful

but these inaccessible rocks

times

no

when

of the

Every
monumental crest between.
of a bold and impressive character.

its

feature in this extraordinary landscape

Associated with so

La Sarcena another

soaring directly in front, and

Waldensian watch posts

and leads the

the persecuted native had no citadel

consolation

but in his unsullied faith

no

personal security but what he could purchase with the sword.

Ha\-ing now completed the first dinsion of the tour, we shall indulge in a
few miscellaneous observations on the valleys through which we have passed,

and the linng features of their inhabitants.

so

named,

is

Tlie Vachera, or pastoral district

a green alp on the eastern frontier,

on which the sheep and

cattle

belonging to the surrounding communes are sent to graze during the season.*
This branch of rural economy

we have

already mentioned as occupying a

considerable portion of the inhabitants during the

are here watched

summer months.

by a colony of herds, men and shepherds, who pitch

erect cabins along this elevated region, in

which

all

The

cattle

their tents or

the different processes of

the dairy are carried on during their sojourn, and at the close of the season

become a

profitable source of export.

* This annual mipration of the cattle, instinctively impatient as the season advances to reach their alpine
pastures,

is

described in a hjTnn written by the late Moderator.

M.

In a series of others, embracin.?

Bert.

he has happily blended some striking reflections well calculated to

whom they were composed. The following is an extract,
(in double lines) from that in question" L'emigration du Be'tail sur les Alpes,' set to the music of the forty-

familiar subjects

make an

and

local descriptions,

impression on the simple-minded youth for

'

second psalm.
" Pourquoi cette inquietude, qu'on remarque en nos troupeaux
On voit a Icur attitude, qu'ils n'aiment plus le repos

que sans retard

reclament I'avantnge de changer de paturage.

Leur impatient regard

lis

dit a-ssez,

A A

"

Cedoas

THE WALDENSES.

go
During the period of

their

ahode in these isolated regions, the shepherds

by the neighbouring

are visited at stated occasions

tliera that spiritual instruction

pastor,

who

they would otherwise be debarred.

rei^ular place of worship,

thus affords

from which, by situation and distance from any

In this country,

however, where the ordinances of religion are so justly appreciated, and considered so indispensable to the moral health of the community, every provision

made

is

That none may plead ignorance

for exemplifying its precepts.

as

an

excuse for error, or adduce their isolated situation as an apology for the neglect
of religious duties, they are refreshed from time to time by these mmisterial
visitations,

and reminded of

Him who

is

ever present

" In the wide waste as in the city

The

which

scene

Waldenses

fonns

regulations of

these

assemblies

pastoral

moral code.

tlieir

population of the surrounding

on

his

way

present

a novel and most interesting feature

On

to gather

hills.

so

peculiar to

among the

the

salutary

the day appointed for their celebration,

these sacred festivals are hailed with gratitude,

is

full."

and attended by the entire

The announcement

that the worthy pastor

around him once more the scattered children of his

flock, is the signal for every chalet

and every sheltering rock to send forth

its

Some accompany him from the distant valley, others meet him in
ascent, and all assemble roimd him as he reaches the verdant platform

inmates.

the

which he is to address them in the affectionate language of Scripture,

Nothing can be more pleasing to Hie spectator, or more gratifying to these
single-minded people, than the affectionate solicitude with which their minister
fi-om

inquires into

all

their

each, as occasion offers

wants and wishes instructing, consoling, and encouraging

;

but ever directing them, in the midst of

all their

worldly

concerns, to " set their affections on those things that are above."

When

the service of the day

is fairly

simultaneously taken up by every

begun, and the words of the psalm are

member

present, and melodiously prolonged

through the varied changes of the tune, the

effect is

extremely touching.

Cddons tnus u la demande que Tinstinet sail leur dieter;

Notre interet nous commande de ne pas leur resister.
Pour eviter la chaleur, et respirer la fraieheur,
Quittant nos basses campagnes, conduisons-les aux montagnes.
" La, sur ces Alpes lointaines, nos troupeaux s'embelliront,
Et des hei-bes les plus saines, joyeux, ils se nourriront." ....
" Ce changement de pacage doit nous rappeler aussi,

Que

la vie est

un voyage que nous

faisons tons id

K^ayant Hen de pertnanent^ recherchons incessammeni

Cette demeure iterneUe que Dieu promet aufidele."

As

SABBATH

THE

IN

ALPS.

91

the volume of sound swells into chorus, then gradually melts away, and

is again
renewed, the woods and rocks of the " everlasting hills" respond to the anthem,
an in\-isible choir presided over the spot, and lent a holier elevation to

as if

the heart, and a richer modulation to the voice.

At

such an hour, and in the

midst of scenes whose unchanging sublimity exerts at

all

times a powerful

influence over the feelings, the heart S3Tnpathises in a peculiar

the worship and

The

worshipper.

tlie

the voice of inspiration, and

manner with

now

simple music of the psalm seems

that he has heard in the " long

all

drawn

aisles,"

appears faint in comparison with what here greet the stranger in " a Sabbath
the hills."

waving
for

among
The majestic objects themselves seem in an audible voice to speak of
The Alps, the broad and cloudless sky, the flowery sward, the

Creator.

tlieir

forests,

Him whose

frowning precipices,

the

temple

is all

space

an appropriate tabernacle

present

temple not made with

of which every feature proclaims the presence of

its

hands a temple

divine Architect.

Grouped

around their pastor, and eagerly listening to those glad tidings of which he
the depositary,

out

this

some

it is

is

highly gratifying to observe the stillness that reigns through-

piimithe assembly

the

marked emphasis with which each applies

to the case of some one near him.*

particular passage to himself, or

Simple, uncultivated, and even grotesque, as

* This scene of

an alpine Sabbath will no doubt recal to

many

many

may

of this congregation

of our readers the history of past times^

when the persecuted natives of Scotland assembled by stealth in some dreary glen, or moimtain top, to hear
Word of God, and hold communion with their fellow-sutferers. The scene has been admirably depicted
by a native poet, who has done the subject honour, and been honoured by his subject. It is so applicable to
the VValdenses under similar circumstances, that we make no apology for inserting an extract from the poem.
the

..." Long ere the

O'er

hills,

dawn, by devious ways

through woods, o'er dreary wastes, they sought
moors, where rivers there but brooks

The upland

Dispart to different seas.

Fast by such brooks

A shadowy glen

is

Thy persecuted

children, Scotia, foiled

sometimes scooped a plat,

With greensward gay, and flowers that strangers seem
Amid the he.ath-clad wild, that all around
Fatigues the eye. In solitudes like these

A tyrant's and a bigot's bloody

laws.

There, leaning on his spear

Whose gleam in

On

(one of the array

former days had scathed the rose

England's banner, and had powerless struck

infatuate monarch and his wavering host)

The
The

lyart veteran heard the word of God

By Cameron thundered, or by Renwick poured
In gentle stream then rose the song, the loud
Acclaim of praise the wheeling plover ceased
:

Her plaint
And on the

the solitary place was glad.

distant cairns tlie watchman's ear

Caught doubtfully,

at times, the

breeze-bome note.

'

THE WALDENSES.

92

appear to a stranger, they have

Scriptures
virtues
is

of

the
its

taste,

been taught to read and

alJ

reflect

upon the

and under a rude and impoverished exterior, exhibit those

which are too rarely met with

How

in polished society.

practical

superior, then,

humble shepherd of these Alps, who reads liis Bible, and lives in observance
precepts, to the court-bred seigneur, whose chateau is a miracle of good
but from whose conversation and closet the sacred volume

How much

more estimable

is

the sacred guidance of his religion

whose mind
than the man
it

enlightened

is

who

knows the

calm and established in

who

" reason"

who

is

excluded.

resigns himself to

will of his

Master and does

firm belief of Divine Revelation,

its

prides himself on his philosophy

but

who

the simple momitaineer,

on

the exercise of an

too often finds, in the severer trials of

life,

and at the approach of dissolution, that its vaunted maxims sound like mockery
quickening his apprehensions, upbraiding him with
in " the sick man's ear"

the neglect of better studies, and in one short hour prostrating that elaborate

system of human invention on which he had too fondly relied. Pliilosophy, indeed,
is

the friend that attends us in prosperity

that gives zest to our happy hours

away when

that embellishes every walk of

life

we most

Religion, on the contrary, once fully established

require

its

support.

but, like other false friends, falls

movements, enables

in the heart, directs all its

its

possessor to enjoy prosperity

with moderation, and in adversity arms him with invincible fortitude.

former

is

the pride of

that flatters us into a dangerous security

life,

own importance, but seldom permits us

we have leant till the last the latter is

us into a vain sense of our

the

frail

reed on which

never deceives nor deserts

its

life,

and ripens

worship God, or even at the dead

Of night, save when the wintry storm raved fierce,

And thunder-peals compelled the men of blood
The

within their dens

scattered few

By rocks

then dauntlessly

would meet,

in

some deep

dell.

o'er-canopied, to hear the voice

Their faithful pastor's voice. He, by the gleam

Of shaded lightning, oped the sacred Book,
And words of comfort spoke. Over their souls

His accents soothing came

The

heath-fowl wings,

She gathers

in,

By murilerous

Fondly her plumes

They

as to her young

when

at the close of eve

mournful, her brood dispersed

sport,
:

and

that which

at last into a

" But years more gloomy followed and no more

The assembled people dared in face of day

To crouch

to discover

votary, but, like " oil poured on a tem-

humble

pestuous sea," smooths his course through

To

The

betrays

o'er the

remnant spreads

close nestling 'neath her breast.

cherished cower amidst the ourole blooms."

Graha

new

93

IBATH ON THE VACHERA.

But on the influence of this vivifying principle, in

human life, it were here superfluous to enlarge

and happier existence.

every state and condition of

it

was impossible, however, not

impressive an example of

to advert forcibly to the subject, while

mtnessing so

working, and the unaffected piety which the scene

its

before us so beautifully illustrates.

In addressing an assembly like

preacher never loses sight
standard which renders

of.

it

this,

there

His language

is
is

to the

intelligible

one important object which the

formed on that simple scriptural

humblest comprehension.

He

to fix the attention

takes advantage of every circumstance of time and situation,
history, he
If, in closing some elucidation of Bible
and engage the heart.

wishes to enforce the lesson by adding some prominent traits of christian virtue,
example
he has only to quote the pages of their own history. Stimulated by the
force on
of their forefathers, the words of the preacher descend with double
If he pomt
admire.
his hearers, and encourage them to emulate what they
to the surrounding cliffs to the valleys spread out

them to

beneath

the rocks

and caverns from which their ancestors descended to victory, or to which they
with their
fled from the sword of persecution, profound gratitude mingles
will follow.
exultation and where gratitude fills the heart, every good deed
;

to a scene of this description, we natm-aUy observe the

presents to those numerous fetes which, vmder a religious colouring,
amusements which,
are so often the resort of licentious passions, or at least of

While adverting

contrast

if

it

with little time for idle

not criminal, are never conducive to virtue. But
many opportunities for instruction rendered doubly effective

indulgence, and so

" Uving example" of their teachers

by the example handed down, and the
we cannot be surprised that the Waldenses have so long maintained a marked
superiority of morals, and

shown themselves

to

be a people who are " doers

of the word, and not hearers only."

"We might now indulge

to susceptible
last

hymn

minds as

in

much

interesting description such as will occur

the evening closes upon this alpine Sabbath

expires in faint echoes

when

the pastor

lifts

when

the

hands to implore a

his

with pleasing
benediction on his flock, and each retires slowly from the scene,
thoughts

that

take

night, or seated

balm

to its

forefathers,

"

While watching liis flocks by

remembrance of a well-spent day is

possession of the heart.

by the

chalet hearth, the

humble tenant, and encouragement

whose primitive lesson

Frayres, entede una nobia leuzon

Souet deue uelhar erstar en ozon."

still

"

to

walk

sounds in his ear

O my brethren, listen
Tliat tells us

in the

steps of his

to this noble lesson

we ouyht

often

'

to

watch and pray."'

THE WALDENSES.

94

While

this scene passes in

we cannot but revert to

when persecution let

review before us,

the ver}'

aspect which these heights presented

different

we have
here,

had

just pictured,

marshalled under

The epoch

existence.

to

exchange the crook of peace

pastors,

their

we

to which

to

whom

struggle

when assembled under

pastor Leger, the Waldenses were attacked on the Vachera

and

for the sword,

maintain a renewed

allude, is that,

the

slip

ministers of her vengeance, and the ancestors of these simple peasants,

by the Ducal

for

their
force,

which had mustered in gi-eat strength, and confidence of victory but the race
was " not to the swift, nor the battle to the strong." After a struggle of many
;

was changed

hours' duration, their confidence

was the charge with which they were

utter dismay

before

their

at

pursuers, in

into panic;

repulsed,

last

and so impetuous
that

abandonment of

total

they

fled

in

order and

all

Leger himself has depicted the scene in vivid colours, but candidly

discipline.

admits, that, at the earlier period of the onset, the Waldenses had well nigh
fallen into the

For, in spite of their determined courage,

hands of the enemy.

enemy were within a spear's length

when Leger and his adjutant, Colonel Andrion of Geneva,
that all who had no more ammmiition should be instantly employed
while others had orders to cUmb the superincumbent precijiices,

having spent

all

their

powder and

shot, the

of the intrenchment,

gave orders
as

slingers,

and,

by dislodging portions of the rock, discharge them

on the heads of the enemy.

terrible

their

fell like

whole columns.

own

effect of

career, shivered

them

this

in continued avalanches

manceuwe was sudden and

from the summit, and meeting others in

for the rocks being laimched

downward

bound,

The

to pieces,

and thus, augmenting

at every

showers of grape-shot among the enemy, crushing or disabling

But

it

was

still

more

to those

fatal

who, studious of their

among
wood growing from

personal safety, had spread themselves" widely, during the conflict,

the precipices, where, concealed from \'iew by the natural

the crevices, they could take deadly aim at the Waldenses, while the latter

were not aware from whence the shot that galled them proceeded.
as

But

as soon

the showers of rocks began to sweep the precipices, these lurking sharp-

shooters were mostly overwhelmed.

superstition of the day,

them proof,
no charm to
their posts,

wore on

as they believed, against

divert one of

and

The

musket

these rocks

fled in despair.

others

too,

their persons certain

The

from

spell

who, according to the

charms which rendered

bullets, perceiving that they

its

course,

was broken.

at once

had

abandoned

The Waldenses now

springing forward from behind their barricades, each with a broad cutlass* in
* This weapon, with a blade about twenty
by the Waldenses.

inclies long,

and two or three broad, was vnty generally worn

BATTLE OF THE VACHERA.

one hand, and a

on the part of the

loss

assailants,

comprising that of their best

95

whole anny before them.

pistol in the other, drove the

The

even by their own showing, was very great,

officers,

One

and a large body of veterans.

of their

on observing the great number of dead and wounded who were

brought into Luzern, exclaimed, " How is this ? Formerly the wolves used
magistrates,

to devour the dogs

The

wolves."

but the day

now

is

force of this hon-mot

is

the word barbetti, literally dogs, was the

Roman

the Waldenses by their

when

arrived

more apparent

the dogs devour the

where

in the original,'*

common term

of reproach applied to

Catholic neighbours.

In perusing their history, or in observing the existing habits and manners

of the Waldenses, the close resemblance they bear to those of the

" Covenanters," cannot

fail to

Both were the marked objects of persecution

the subject.

who

excite the notice of every one

mising defenders of their religious tenets

and

Scottish

has studied

both were uncompro-

both preferred death in any

shape, to a lax " conformity" with those political edicts which their consciences

Both evinced a

could not recognize but as violations of the law of God.

loyalty,

and performed the duties of loyal

subjects, as soon as the

Both had

relaxed in the cruel measures enforced against them.

in the field, and their martyrs on the scaffold

of the Waldenses

would be easy

it

formists of Scotland.

We

But

may mention, however,

this

to find

the

atrocities perpetrated in

those perpetrated

The

Waldenses.
were,

we

parallels

among

champions

and pastors
the Noncon-

to our present undertaking.

by which one

to jjass lightly over those

endeavoured to annihilate

the other

for

cer-

Scotland under sanction of a Protestant

ministry, were hardly inferior in degree

to

many

their

to the leaders

that in dwelling on the terrible persecutions inflicted

of professing Protestants

tainly

and

would be foreign

on the Waldenses, we are but too apt

set

of

spirit

government

though

much

shorter in duration

by the Catholic government of Piedmont

against

the

who report these facts, so degrading to humanity,

men who had themselves " suffered persecution," and

historians

admit, generally

therefore might have been liable to

some degree of suspicion

but the

facts,

unhappily, are too well attested by opposite authorities to leave the slightest doubt
If

of their authenticity.
tliat

we compare

the darker passages of Scottish history with

of the Waldenses, even at the most calamitous epoch of their sufferings,

shall perceive that the

we

condemnation so freely passed upon the Catholics, may

in our own
recommended more severe

be pronounced with justice against the government then existing

country.

The Proiiaganda could hardly have

* " Altre volte

Leyer, Hist.

li

p. 197,

lupi

mangiavano

quoted

literally.

li

barbetti, ma"l

tempo e Tenuto

clii

li

Barbetti mangiano

li

lupi."

THE WALDENSES.

96
measures

the extirpation of heretics, than were sanctioned by the ministers

for

of Charles the Second against the Presbyterians.*

Before quitting these alpine heights,

it

may

their local boundaries, as well as the varied

command,

if

we here

accessible points

give

the reader

some idea of

and majestic beauties which they

introduce a brief panoramic sketch from one of the highest

the Coumaiit.

In our laborious ascent to

this isolated

summit,

compensated by the ever-varying scene that contracts or dilates

as the path scrambles along the precipices, or meanders through some pastoral
the fatigue

is

have lived," said an eye-witness, " to see those sufferings inflicted by one body of Protestants on the
have lived to see a prince twice, of his own choice, take tlie oath of the Covenants to support religion
I have lived to see that prince turn traitor to his country, and, with
unblushing impiety, order these Covenants to be burnt by the hands of the public executioner. I have seen
him subvert the liberty of my country, both civil and religious; I have seen him erect a bloody inquisition.
The priests, imposed on us by tyranny, instead of wooing us over by the loveliness of religion, have thrown
* "

other

and the fundamental laws of the land

They occupy seats in the sanguinary Council. They stimulate the cruelties of
off the bowels of compassion.
Our property they confiscate our houses they convert into barracks.
Lauderdale, Mackenzie, and York.
They drag free men into chains they bring forward no witnesses of our guilt. They invent new tortures to
convert us. They employ the thumb-screws and bootkbis. If we are silent, they condemn us. If we confess
ourChristian creed, they doom us to the gibbet. If we offer a defence, a judge rises from his seat, and, with a
naked sword, wounds the prisoner.' Not only our sentence, but the manner of our execution, is fixed before
our trial. In'our last moments, they command the kettle-drum to beat one continued roll ;* and when a strong
.

sense of justice extorts a complaint against our barbarous treatment, a military servant of the Council strikes
the dying man* in his last moments. And, as if this s.^n<,'llin.^ry process were too slow in exterminating
)Miit;il M.ldiery upon us upon tis who recalled him
have seen Charles Stuart, the king, let hm-..
II'' Ikh imudered our men, our wives, and our chiland placed the crown on his heail
Clavers (the Viscount Dundee) is our juil-e his diaynons our executioners; and these savages
do still employ the sagacity of blood-hounds to hunt us dowti. My soul sickens at the revolting spectacles.
They have cut in pieces the friends and companions of- my youth. Mackail, Kid, and King,
are no more. Cameron fell bleeding at my side. Hackstone they have butchered. Cargil, my father,

us,

from

;i

exile,

'

dren.

they could not even spare thee

at the feet of his wife

Nor

thee, dear

and crying children.

young Renwick
Brown fell by the bloody Clavers,
my friends, and those in whose veins my blood ran,
!

have seen

ranks on bloody Bothwell, as the golden flowers of the meadow under the scythe of the mower. I have
seen the greedy axe of the inhuman executioner mangle the limbs of my dearest friends. I have seen the
minions of tyranny perform their disgusting service, of transporting from place to place, and suspending, as on
fall in

shambles, the bleeding limbs of our martyrs

have seen the hammer of the barbarians

fix

the severed heads

of my companions on the walls of Edinburgh. I have seen these forms, once dear to my soul as the light of
The frequent butcheries in the field
heaven, become naked and bleached bones under the rain and sun
and on the scaffold have rendered men callous. The ghastly heads and mangled quarters are set up before

the mob.

Mothers and daughters have become so familiarized with the spectacle, that they no longer

start

We

." &c.
them without a shudder
have only to compare the
preceding detail with that of Leger, or any other accredited historian of the Waldenses, to see how nearly
the Presbyterians of the north have approached in every variety of suffering to their Protestant brethren of
the south. The coincidence is so striking, that it seems as if each detail were an abstract from the history

at the sight delicate females pass under

But this was to be expected for the history of one persecution is that of every persecution,
The printed historical documents respecting the Covenanters, as well
numerous MSS. in the possession of private families, would afford materials for an original and most interestFor the reader of Waldensian history, the " Vindication of the Scottish Covenanters," by Dr.
ing work.
M'Crie, and M'Gavin's edition of " The Scots Worthies," with a copious appendix, will be suificient for the
of the other.

since the foundation of Christianity.

as

object stated.
*

Historical facts.

PANORAMA FROM THE CORNAOUT.

To

and sweet herbage.

up at

intervals,

kingdom

the

the right and

marking the

left,

groups of bold, naked rocks shoot

between the vegetable and mineral

gradual lapsing of

life

But

into death
fi-om the

The wide-spread

most imposing grandeur.

for honey-flowers

dilTerent stages

into the sterile regions of snow.

eye

97

where the wild bee and the mountain goat resort

solitude,

that vast treasury of noble

rivers,

of shrub

and plant merging

summit, the panorama

valleys of Italy

of the

is

expand before the

exuberant plains, and magnificent

cities,

with which Hannibal animated his Carthaginians, and which Napoleon pointed
out to his exhausted troops as an irresistible stimulus to renewed exertion.
In the distance, Turin, the " great city of the plain," and its lofty temple of the

Superga, stand forth beautifully defined in the deep blue sky

tlie

former with an

au-

bounded by the horizon

and chateaux; and,

To

of regal magnificence.
;

the vast interval

like a white line

is filled

the latter crowning

the east, the j^rospect

up with

only-

is

cities, tovvnis, villages,

on the extreme verge of the picture, the

Lombard capital of MUan closes the panorama. The fantastic windings of the
Po are seen at intervals glancing in the sun, and carrying beauty and fertility
through

vening

wide domain.

its

distant line

haze points out the

slight

conceal from view the cities and towns with which

hills

Nearer the

Towards the south, a

where the waves of the Mediterranean meet the sky

valleys, the spectator's

that excite his admiration,

but the inter-

it is

bordered.

eye wanders over a rich succession of objects

and awaken many

historical recollections.

Asti,

the birth-place of Alfieri; Saluzzo, from which the Waldenses were so cruelly
expelled

in the sixteenth century; Campillon, Fenil,

belonged to their ancestors; Cavour, and

a

new problem

for the solution of geologists

its
;

Bubiana

all

of which

singular mountain, which

GarsigKana, with

we have

and, finally, the terraced heights of Pignerol, which

its lofty

oflTers

steeple

already described.

Turning our eyes stiU further over the immense chain of Alps forming, so to
speak, the " spinal vertebrae of Europe"
on the right, Monte Viso, and on the

left,

Mont

crests,

The

Cenis, start forth in isolated majesty.

bling a vast colossal obelisk,

soars

from the midst of

icy peaks, and inaccessible ridges

shape and position

like the great

over the sand of the

desert.

all

of these, resem-

tliis

ocean of snowy

surging up in every variety of

pyramid of Egypt

It

first

rising in solitary

would be a vain attempt

grandeur

for those

who

have not actually witnessed the scene, to paint the magnificence with which
this

mountain presents

an

itself

Although considerably

Po.

effect

shows

it

still

to

from almost every point along the course of the

less

in

elevation

more imposing, from the

infinite

advantage,

as

fact

than
of

appearing so
c c

its

Mont

Blanc,

isolated

it

produces

position,

much higher than

which
all

the

;;

THE WALDENSES.

stirrounding Alps.

No

adventurer has hitherto reached

its

summit

is

it

the

Jungfrau of the south.*

After having contemplated these mountains and valleys under the creative

mfluence of a vernal sun, we should see them again when the autumnal blasts
have rifled the forests of their leaves, and when the winter snows have shrouded

Then we

the whole landscape.

change of season

the

perceive the fearful change induced

by the

sudden transition from the glory of an Italian sunshine

to the withering frosts of

Nova Zemba.

are severe in an inverse proportion to the

Here, the flowers of spring and the

The

rigours of a Waldensian winter

warmth and

fruits of

rich profusion of simuiier.

autumn blossom and

fall

com-

in a

paratively brief space, leaving the residue of the year under the dominion of

winter, which, though always tedious in the Alps, varies in duration according
to the

exposure of the valley

degrees of severity.

and even in the same valley

The stonns

to those periodical hurricanes

to

is felt

which these Valleys are

mider different

subject, are similar

which occur along the whole range of Alps

such

we have

already described f as so terrific in their appearance, and destructive

in their efi'ects.
But if the winter here be long and severe, the spring, summer,
as

Monte Viso,

or Mons Vesulus, derives its name from the proverbial and extraordinary view which it comIt is one of the highest of the Alps, and from two small lakes in its fl.ink the " Sovereign Po" takes
Pliny has informed us, that here were the limits of the Ligurii Vagienni" Padus e gremio Vesuli
montis celsissimus in cacumen Alpium elati, finibus Ligurum Vagiennorum, visendo fonte perfluens, con

mands.

its rise.

densque suo cuniculo," &c.

It is very probable that

from Monte Viso Hannibal might have shown Italy to

and founding their speculations on this probability, various commentators have frankly attributed
to this great captain of antiquity the merit of having framed the celebmtetl excavation which runs from east
to west through the flank of this mountain, at an elevation of two thousand four hundred metres above the
level of the Mediten-anean.
The length of this subterranean communication is seventy-two metres, by two
his troops

metres forty-seven contimetres in breadth, and two metres and five decimetres in height, A tradition attributes to Andre, the dauphin, who possessed the marqui^te of Saluzzo in 12-28, the honour of this great work
but of this no historical evidence exists. Louis I., marquess of Saluzzo, lays also claim to the achievement,
and says, that he accomplished it '' ferro, i<pte, et aliis variis ingeniis:' In consequence of this, he was

honoured by several special privileges from the emperor,

probable, however, that Andre and Louis were only the
excavation was accomplished at an epoch very .anterior to
worked the mines in the High Alps long after the Romans
bility,

Fred. III., Charles VII., and Louis XI.

repairers of this
that stated.

The

g-iJlerj',

and that the

Saracens,

who appear

It

is

original

to

have

had retired from the country, were, in all probathe authors of this extraordinary work, while they possessed most of the strong places in the country,

and were

in alliance with the people of Saluzzo.

Francis I., it will be recollected, marched his troops, and
even his artillery, across Monte Viso a vivid picture of which Gaillard has transmitted in the annexed extract
his history. ..." On arriva enfin a une demiere montagne ou Ton vit avec douleur tant de travaux et
La sape et la mine avaient renverse tout ce qu'on avait pu aborder et entamer
mais que pouvaient-elles contre une seule roche vive (Monte Viso), escarpee de tous coth, impenetrable aufer,
presqu'inaccessible mix hommes ?
Navarre, qui I'avait plusieurs fois sondee, commen9ait a ddsespdrer du
succes, lorsque des recherches plus heureuses lui de'couvrirent une veine plus tendre, qu'il suivait avec la
derniere precision le rocher fut entame par le milieu, et I'armee, introduite au bout de huit jours dans le
maiquisat de Saluces (Saluzzo), admira ce que pouvent rindustrie, Paudace, et la perseverance" It appears,
however, that Francis did little more in the present instance than repair and widen the approach to the Gallery.
t See p. 12 in the present Volume also, Switzerland Illustrated, vol. i. " Passage of the Spliigen."

from

tant d'efforts prets a e'chouer.

iAmtu,

MUSIC IN THE VALLEYS.

iJH

and autumn, following each other in quick succession, have

beauty, and

all

the freshness,

which distinguish the Valley of the Po

fertility,

" Ces rives Kcondes

Que

As soon

as the

I'Eridan rapide arrose de ses ondes."

snow melts under the reviving sun, the alpine pastures are

<:overed with the richest vegetation

The

odours.

\Tne

the chestnut forests put forth their leaves,

seen spreading forth

is

the olive, and the mulberry,

fig,

up in myriads, and the whole

iiowers spring

come

impregnated with balsamic

air is

tendrils

its

from tree

forth in their season

to tree

the

the orchards are

covered with various blossoms, and the fields grow green with " the promise
of bread."
" Enfin vous jouissez

et le coeur et les

Cherissent de vos bois

At

this

to the ear

yeux

I'abri delicieux."

joyous season the sound of vocal music comes with soothing harmony
b\it

here

it

is

sympathy with those

a music which has no

Waldensian music

is

always of a sacred character, and accompanied with words

calculated to

awaken and preserve

beneficence,

and the blessings of religion.*

in the heart a grateful sense of the Divine

Often, while wandering through

these romantic defiles, the sound of mingled voices, issuing from

leafy recess, or falling in softened cadence
traveller

Among

rustic

which the peasants of other countries lighten the hours of labour.

lays with

on

his

the

some deep

from some isolated rock, meets the

way, and kindles in his mind a

young females of the community,

spirit

after

of congenial devotion.

attending sermon,

it

is

customary to meet in some retired bower of their native rocks, and there to
chaunt in chorus the hjTims and paraphrases introduced into their form of
public worship.

When we

contrast with these simple and religious exercises,

which they now enjoy in peace, those ages of oppression, rapine, and bloodshed
those days when the sound of an " uplifted voice" was sufficient to conduct the
individual to the scaffold
*

In the LivRE de

Famille a

days,

when

those verdant slopes were stained with

on the history of the Vaudois church

and its religious principles, by the late Moderator, M. Bert a collection of hymns, set to music, is included.
These are all descriptive of the principal occupations of rural life in the Valleys, well calculated to engage the
mind in salutary reflections, and to acknowledge that, as every season is productive of some new bounty on
series of familiar catechetical lessons

the part of Providence, so every season appeals to the heart of

subjects chosen for these

hymns

employments. They

daily

are, "

man

as a

new

source of thankfulness.

The

are such as are most familiar to the inhabitants, being the sum of their
The Vine-dressing ;" " The Labours of the Silk-worm ;" ' Hay-making ;"

Migration of Cattle to the Alps," (already quoted)

The Maiis, or Turkey Wheat ;"
Vintage;" " The Potato-season ;" " Hemp-gathering;" "Seed-time;" "Chestnut-gathering;" and
;

"The

" Walnut-season."

" Corn-harvest ;"

"

THE WALDENSES.

100
the blood of the innocent;

the " morning and the evening sacrifice" were

when

when

frequently interrupted by the sword;

who met in
when

those

prayer could scarcely hope to revisit their homes in peace

stood listening at the porch

on the sword

to buckle

when

when

the house of

lurking spies

the pastor, on closing the Bible, had often

the thunders of the Vatican and the exterminating

" edicts" of their prince denounced them as a prey to destruction; when we

contrast all these horrors with the religious tranquillity, the political freedom

now

in which they

participate, the
"

Waldenses may well exclaim

nobis hsec otia fecit

!"

sensible of these important changes in their favour,

Deeply
they

Deus

now

enjoy, the

Waldenses

and regard their fellow-subjects

as

would

strive to conciliate

men whom

the

Roman

who surround

Catholics

by every means

They

in their power.

and obtain,

it is

hoped,

will thus

under which they

still

Forbearance towards those who

gious but in a political point of view,

interests of society.

If

we

to lead

scruples

from

to our

we

from

this habit will teach

other persecution.

own without

offence,

We

us,

a virtue of the

not merely in a
first

reli-

importance to the

and consideration the opinions

tendency of which

shall acquire a habit, the

us to view with the same forbearance

and

all

differ

burdens or

remnant of the ancient

labour, as a

treat with respect

of our neighbour as to religion,

is

is

exem-

not for themselves,

if

at least for their posterity, the entire abrogation of all those political

church.

the

they are bound to love, and whose good opinion they

plify the true spirit of Christianity,

disqualifications

to

their sovereign, of encoui-agement as patriotic citizens

God, of loyal devotion to

throne

and the blessings

renewed motives of gratitude

will only feel

all

his

other conscientious

us to abstain, not only from religious, but

shall

have learned " to hear opinions opposite

and in a calm and dispassionate

spirit.

We

shall

and not shut our ears to conviction; we

shall believe that we are not

we may on some occasions and important occasions too be
Having acquired this
in error, while our neighbours may be in the right."
salutary habit, this self-diffident spirit, we shall be willing to hear the truth
from whatever source it may come, and be anxious to learn the opinions of

listen,

infallible

that

others in order to judge of the correctness of our own.

of the Reformation were

first

When

the principles

promulgated, the people were told by the Catholics

of those days, that " every sort of vice and depravity would be the necessaryresult of

any change in religious opinions."

But, notwithstanding this fearful

denunciation, the old Reformers went boldly on in their work, and, wherever

heard and received, they made a thorough change in the ancient ceremonial;

RETROSPECTIVE GLANCE.
and yet the reformed communities,

lUl

they were called, did not "

as

fall

into

every sort of vice and depravity," but, on the contrary, they were found to be
quite as moral, good,

kmd, and

who had looked

in expectation of

on,

Those,

virtuous, as the Catholics.

tliercfore,

seeing the prediction verified, were

staggered, and at length suspected and confessed that an absolute conformity

with the doctrines promulgated from the Vatican, was not the best criterion of

moral excellence

that a dissent from the established forms of the Catholic

church did not necessarily imply either dereliction of duty as a citizen, or breach
of allegiance as a subject.

more enlarged;
countries,

As time passed

the mass of the people,

became more enhghtened

on, the field of observation

made

greater allowances were

something

a spirit of mutual toleration became infused into the pubhc mind

like

however,

spirit

their ancestors

and the Protestant the

Catliolic,
;

if

Pignerol, deliberately burnt the

difl'ers

unhappy men

who rushed

But

zealous

whom

King James

Protestant,

witches and wizards," in Scotland.

a sentence of death
evidence

they denounced as heretics.

by an execrable church

drivellers

burnt

the

That King

" anabaptists,

the

suspicion of sorcery was equivalent to

the

no evidence could be adduced.

Youth and beauty,

dreaming votary of superstition and the pitiful

in some distempered fancy
those " weak and silly women," who

imagined themselves in league with the " 'powers of the

of the monarch's indignation.
rigorous

policy,

the Bible-taught Calvin

sentence which was pronounced on the most superficial

or, rather, where

age and decrepitude

just as

in multitudes to

burnt Servetus in Geneva, the very focus of the Reformation.

the

not

from those who, in Smitlifield and

the government of Savoy, instigated

burnt the Waldenses, we cannot forget that Calvin

James

if

not with

hope, are the Catholics of the present age in Piedmont what

were under Emanuel Philibert and Victor Amadeus.

Crusades, so the present generation

if

not,

and at length

The English Protestants of the present

Henry VIII. and Elizabeth

the people of that age differed from their forefathers,

But

examples

like their predecessors in the days of

we would

neither,

terrible

of cordiality, at least with charitable compassion

approbation, at least with forbearance.

day are not

many

persecution had indulged in

till

the Catholic viewed the Protestant,

with a

tlie

became

both in Catholic and in Protestant

inquisition,

at

The

air"

all felt

the weight

council of state was transformed into a

which the sovereign himself presided,

directed

its

proceedings, and piqued himself on being able to detect a " true witch" with

more

certainty than the best of his ministers.

of the Revolution

was

sending

court of Turin against the

While William III. the hero

out subsidies, and remonstrating with the

inhuman treatment of
D D

its

persecuted subjects, the

THE WALDENSES.

102

Waldenses, he was signing those very orders by which his own subjects
inhabitants of Glenco

were

massaci-ed in die dead of night,

the

their helpless

wives and orphans driven to perish in the snow, their habitations reduced to
ashes,

property

their

watchword

confiscated,

and their very names

These are appalling

for extermination.

pronounced

as

of the massacres which from time to time were perpetrated in these Valleys,

must speak in more measured terms of the

the sanction

of William
all

it

" did

God most

and by die act evinced

had

for the

common

as

But

acceptable service."

a religion which

professed

commanded them

persecution," but which they determined to violate

as they

we

court of Turin had

nay, the express command, of the church to extirpate heresy, and

in doing so, believed

principles,

The

instigators.

and when we read

ikcts;

its

ministers

tJie

" abstain from

to

most fundamental

thorough a contempt for the Divine oracles,

dictates of humanity.

We cannot here

follow out

the subject, nor combat the arguments by which some historians have endea-

voured to extenuate such facts, but the facts themselves refute

What

can be more extraordinary, by

way

of contrast, than this

all

arguments.

namely, that

the immortal Henri Arnaud, the minister and colonel of the Waldenses, and

Captain Campbell of Glenlyon, the unliappy instrument of the massacre of

Glenco,* held both commissions under King William

It is

a humiliating

fact, that,

with the light of the Reformation, the darkness

it was but the

its hold of the human mind
The shades of night still lingered in the valleys, and
The old leaven of persecution long continued to affect

of superstition did not abandon

dawn

ripening into day.

obscured

its

progress.

Persecuted by the Catiiolic party, the other

Although openly denouncing the " evil spirit," and

the whole bodj' of the state.

retaliated with persecution.

expediency of such proceeding, as hostile and contradictory to

profession

tiiough delegating

to

God

when

religious

punishment of their

the Protestants

themselves scrupled

enemies, and the redress of their wrongs

not,

tlieir

in their prayers the

occasion offered, to take the sword of justice in their

own hands,

and, in perpetrating a murder, to view themselves as the commissioned agents

of Heaven.

party;

it

Persecution was not exclusively confined to any particular sect or

was the dark

spirit of the age,

sanctioned by the Church ot

deprecated by the Reformers, but, unhappily,

neither discarded

private conversation, nor their public ministry.

Each

concluded that his neighbour must be wrong; and

Rome,

from their

believing himself right,

felt

that so long as that

neighbour was suffered to go unpunished, or unconverted, his own faith was

liable to suspicion, or, at least, that his zeal for " the extirpation of heretics"
* See, for particulars,

Scotland Illustratkd,

vol.

ii.

pp. 79-86.

MORAL AND PHYSICAL CHARACTER.

The

was highly. questionable.

worst in the spirit of conquest.

is

they resolved to destroy

103

spirit of proselytism, therefore,

whom

Those

its

assumed

marked

fessed advocates of religion lamiched into greater excesses than ever

At

the triumphant career of an earthly despot.

knowledge

that

all

agents could not convert,

and, with passions inflamed by opposition, the pro-

by the

length,

of

difl!usion

by the promidgation of those sacred oracles by which they professed

men became more humanized

to regulate their lives, the hearts of

and when

they more clearly comprehended their duty to God, they learnt that of forbear-

" I hold in abhorrence," says a

ance to one another.

"

all

Roman

enmities on accoimt of difference in religion, and

all

Catholic writer,*

by the

those who,

violence of their prejudices, disturb the public repose."

Every one must have observed

who

stations in society, the

we compare

If

Protestants, "

we

we

marked

women

the

distinction of former tunes has almost disappeared.

with the

shall observe the

men

who

are Catholics with those

same appreciable moral

qualities in

sisters, wives.

and

lean with very excusable partiality to

assert; yet the instances are

been cheerfidly

But

citizens."
its

own

So, also,

sacrificed to the public

good

that each party does not

no one

tenets,

numerous on both

are

both

in their public and domestic virtues they are equally

sons, brothers, husbands, fathers,

dices have

who

of England

them equally good mothers, daughters,

shall find

it is

between the Catholic and Protestant

that,

present day live under the same government, and occupy similar

in the

will

pretend to

where hereditary preju-

sides

good

where

men, professing

very opposite views in religion, have coalesced for the successful carrying of
great political measures.

But
been

struggles

of the

in

robust,

so long

which they have

been victims, as well

also

been

victors.

as

field,

or in hunting.

their u:ia3ected hospitality

of mutual relationship

Tlieir frank

and exemplary conduct in

their grateful

justly add, their loyalty

it

has

suffer-

of those arduous

The men

and well made, and improve their physical

occupations in the

may

inhabitants of these Valleys,

bear in their features the expression of their history

ings to which they have

tall,

The

to return from this digression.

said,

gifts

are

generally

by laborious

and manly character

all

the degrees and

recollection of their benefactors, and,

ties

we

and patriotism, and the moderation they observe

in spealdng of their fomier sufferings, are conspicuous features in their moral

character.

Those crimes which require the punislunent of the magistrate are

of very rare occurrence.

"

as

it

The

stranger

may

pass through their country by day

de ce Siecle de iex."Bruxelks, a.d. 1660. A work which is highly

shows that some Roman Catholics, at least, were zealous advocates of religious toleration.

Abrg& de

I'Histoire

gratifying,

10*

/ALDENSES.

or night without the fear of molestation

young women,

as

Roman Catholic
Many of the

the time of

in

neighboui-s to those of their

human
valleys.

is

in all

fact,

the

preferred by their

religion, as maid-servants.

several

its

stages

The hardships

Their fine heads, shaded with

pecuharly striking.

would form studies

their sisters, give

life

a remarkabie
still

In their assemblies, the patriarchal and venerable appear-

ance of the village fathers

silvery locks,

own

is

are

inhabitants in these Valleys reach an advanced age

upwards of ninety.*

men, and

and what

De Vignaux,

for a

Canova

while the matrons, the young

an interesting variety to the picture,

but

life,

such as

it is

to wliich they cheerfully

aiid exliibit

only found in these alpine

submit in earning a scanty sub-

sistence for their families, are such as are but rarely witnessed in other countries.

They

are compelled to raise walls to prevent the earth from being

by the

rains

precipices

no

obliged to break up the

cattle

soil

by manual labour

and women,

can be employed

as well as

account of the steepness of the ground, to carry hay and

The

following

Hospital Report, transmitted

of the state of health in the

1835.

to the

com

along these

men,

forced, on

to a great distance

Author by Dr. Coucourde,

le 23 Mai, 1836.

VaWeys.Dated, Hopital Vawlois,

washed dovm

for
will

convey some idea

BENEFACTORS OF THE WALDENSES.

on

famili es
still,

105

In return for this drudgery, they seldom gain more for their

their backs.

than a

when with

rye,

little

and potatoes.

coarse buckwheat, chestnuts,

we compare

these

the habitual privations to which

But

so

many

of the British subjects, both in Ireland and Scotland, are so often exposed,

an advantage, however, which

a virtue in which they closely resemble

the Waldenses have greatly the advantage

due to their urn-emitting industry

is

their

The spinning of

laborious neighbours, the S^viss.

on a very large

silk

scale

has been recently introduced mto the Valley of Luzern, and, as formerly men-

become a

tioned, promises to

soiu'ce of profitable industry.*

Their language, a patok of French and

sion,

and well suited

The

the interpreter.

Italian, is

remarkably

to those melodies of the heart of

facilities

which

it

soft in expres-

has long been

of education are making daily progress.

In

addition to the college already noticed, schools have been every where established

among

the diiferent commvmes.

In a

favoured ^vith the annexed particulars

letter just received

" During the

Beckwith," the gentleman so often aUuded

to,

from La Tour, we are

last ten years that

Colonel
" has taken up his residence in

our Valleys, he has applied himself ^^ith unwearied zeal and activity to extend
the

means of public education.

or put into thorough repair,

He

AVith this express object he has built anew,f

upwards of eighty schools in the

different villages.

has had printed for the use of the peasantry a translation of the Gospels

and catechism into the patois of the Valleys, with the French version opposite,

them

so as to render

mendation, also,
at

La Tour,

M.

perfectly intelligible to the infant mind.

Pellegrini, an able

At

his

recom-

and experienced teacher, now resident

has undertaken the compilation of a book of arithmetic for the use

of the schools

while Colonel Beckwith

himself

is

engaged in composing a

popular treatise on agricidture^a work which wiU be of great advantage to

the small farmers,

who compose

but very indifferently,

economy now

in use.

two seminaries for

if at all,

the great majority of the population, and are

acquainted with the improved systems of rural

The same gentleman has been

girls,

and of providing

salai'ies for

the means of founding

proper governesses.

has just completed a school-room for the Latin classes, and

is

He

daily encouraging

* The mountains which encircle the Valleys abound in minerals

here are crystals, though not numerous
much iron and three or four gold and silver mines, but not sufficiently rich to pay the working. Game thrives
here in great abundance the highest mountains contain a great number of chamois, which, when full of life,
:

and

at liberty in tlieir native waste, are the

though

still

most

gi-aceful

animals in these alpine regions.

among the number of mountain game; but the

bouguetin was

numerous

lynx, however,

is

race seems

now

taken occasionally, but the instances are more and more

pheasants, coqs-de-bruyere, are also found in their usual haunts.

t

With

tlie

extinct.

Formerly, the
Bears and wolves,

in these districts at the time Leger wTOte his History, have entirely disappeared.

assistance of friends in England,

and other Protest;mt countries.

E E

rare.

The

Hares, foxes, squirrels,

THE WALDENSES,

106

by

his presence, as

he has already done by his pecuniary

new college,* already mentioned."

The Count de Waldbourg Truchsess

completion of

aid, the

the

is

spoken of in terms of well-merited

This excellent nobleman

respect and gratitude.

is

the Prussian ambassador,

now, and for many years past, at the court of Turin.

exertions,

many

when

the public hospital was

first

own active
La Marguerite, f and

Besides his

proposed at

other most important services rendered to the people of these Valleys,

he has lately obtained from the well-known munificence of his sovereign, two

new

bursaries for such of the Waldensian youth as devote themselves to the

sacred duties of the ministry.

men from

In consequence of this patronage, two young

the Valleys have been prosecuting their theological studies in the

Prussian capital for the last two or three years.

Before entering upon the history furnished by Henri Arnaud, namely, the
he has left us of the " glorious recovery of their Valleys" it will be

vivid picture

proper to enumerate a few events which immediately preceded the

This we shall do with

sion of the Waldenses.

written authorities,

strict impartiality,

final

expul-

on the best

and with that brevity which the nature of the present

work demands.

On
their

the revocation of the edict of Nantes, France

homes her own most

faithful subjects of the

after having expelled

reformed church

induce her Piedmontese neighbours to foUow her example.

however, resisted for a time the importunities of Louis

and

that, if

he persisted in refusing to expel the

that office upon himself, and, in return for

French troops;

intimidated

by

liis

Tlie duke of Savoy,

XFV.

by his ambassador that fourteen thousand men were ready

but, being informed

to enforce compliance,

heretics, the

king would take

trouble, garrison the Valleys with

this threat, the

Duke

yielded at once, and, to

preserve his territory from invasion, issued a proclamation by which the

denses were
limits,

commanded

to

from

sought to

demoUsh every Protestant temple within

to baptize their children according to the Catholic

Waltheir

and, publicly

rite,

renouncing their former religion, to show their penitence by a regular attendance

at mass.

To

soften,

if

possible,

the rigour of this

sweeping

edict,

the Waldenses

presented numerous petitions to the Duke, but obtained neither hope nor promise
of the least extenuation in their favour.

See the preceding account at

"

From

the contrary,

the government

two distinguished
manner to the gratitude of the Waldensian church ; and the author who
names and noble deeds of charity in a history of the Valleys, will perform a most
the members of this community."

individuals are entitled in a peculiar

shall

On

f See

supra, pp. 2R, 27.

this brief detail," continues our correspondent, " jou will observe that these
p. 26.

commemorate

acceptable service to

their

THEIR FINAL EXPULSION..

was incensed by thek conscientious

scruples,

Denied access

imsparing severity.

107

and prepared

to visit

them with

to the royal ear as suppliants,

and

stript

of every privilege enjoyed by their fellow-subjects, the Waldenses reluctantly

The memory

prepared to abide the storm.

of " thirty persecutions," which

had been successively directed against them by the machinations of man, neither
shook their confidence in the Divine protection, nor made them despair of their

own

Taking

strength.

measures accordingly, they prepared

their

for

self-

defence, and mustered in such strength that the Duke's forces hesitated to attack

Accepting, therefore, the offer of the French army, then

them single-handed.
on the

frontier,

the latter poured into the Valleys, and, with the celebrated

Catinat* at their head, attacked the Waldenses with great impetuosity.

day, however, terminated
the peasants,

of dragoons.

much

to the disgrace of the French,

Tlie

and the glory of

whose conduct had disabled four regiments of the line, and two
Driven from his position above St. Germain,f M. ViUevieiUe

took refuge in the church, to which Henri Arnaud, advancing with a small

Night, however, favoured their escape, and VillevieiUe,

detachment, laid siege.

with the greater part of his force, rejoined his companions.

day, the Piedmontese troops ha\ing advanced to attack
of Angrogne, were repulsed with loss, and every thing

Waldenses

the following

now promised

for the

not the benefits of victory, at least an honourable capitulation.

if

An unhappy

On

them among the rocks

fatality,

however, defeated these

them the most painful consequences.

prospects,

and entailed upon

spirit of intimidation, it appears,

had

gradually infused itself into their ranks, while jealousy of one another, or distrust
of their means, produced at
their cause.

On

tlie

tliird

first irresolution,

themselves prisoners at discretion.^

this extraordinary

for

is diflicult

to conceive

and, finally, total abandonment of

day they threw down their arms, and surrendered

Authors have in vain attempted to account

conduct under circumstances so higlily favourable.

how men, with such examples

It

of heroic devotion before

them, could thus of a sudden become intimidated into unconditional surrender.

But, as the great Marlborough has justly remarked,
bravery are not equally so at

"

On

peut ^galement

fiiire

de

lui

un

moments

all

general,

un

t See
t "

Histor.

am

Geneva

'

it

in

my power,"

says Dr. Gilly, " to vindicate the conduct of the Vaudois on this

of their extraordinary submission

is

thus solved in a veiy rare Tract, printed at

Tlie Swiss ambassadors persuaded the too confiding Vaudois to throw themselves upon

the generosity of their sovereign, and lay

have described."

un ambassadeur, iin chancelier ct en effet, il

Such was the character pronounced upon Catinat

Documents.

glad to have

The mystery
in 1690.

men of the most undoubted

may be bearded by him

a hero

ministre,

parait en re'unir les qualites sans en exercer les fonctions."

by Laharpe. See " Eloge de Catinat."

occasion.

Excursion, p. 54.

down

their arms.'

They did

so,

and

their treatment

was such as we

THE WALDENSES.

108

who has
terrible

about him

notliing constitutionally heroic

has at times paralyzed

disaster

they surrendered, and a dread of massacre

they might have done so effectually

own

their

if

and a whisper

they continued to resist

favoured

They were immediately

ruin.

arm,

In the case of the Waldenses, a hope of clemency

whole camp.

dispirited a

a presentiment of some

the strongest

been

dungeon, or to make an exhibition on the

if

yet

the Duke, and consummated

by

incarcerated,

liis

teen prisons of Piedmont, where they found, too late, that

better to have died sword in hand, than

and

order, in the thir-

it

would have been

perish by slow disease in the

left to

Shackles are dreadful to

scaffold.

who have assisted in riveting them upon their own limbs; and to the
man who has once submitted to an imputation of cowardice, the upbraidof his owii mind will be more galling than dungeons or fetters
and so

those

brave
ings

in their dismal

We

cannot

cells

enter

the Waldenses thought and

into

details;

but we

may

felt.

on the authority of

state,

Arnaud, that out of the fourteen thousand who were imprisoned, eleven thousand
perished by cold, hunger, disease, and inhumanity.

The Valleys were

quite depopulated; the houses and lands were taken

from their lawful pro-

prietors,

the

and given to strangers.

interposition

of the

At

Protestant

length,

thus

the miserable captives obtained

At

ambassadors then at Turin.

their

urgent remonstrance and entreaty the prisons were thrown open in the begin-

ning of October, and the miserable remnant permitted to see the light but
only on condition that they should immediately leave the country, and embrace
perpetual exile.*

The

order was immediately carried into

was already advancing

in all its terrors

their faces to the Alps,

and commenced

effect.

Winter

and when that famished band turned

their dreary

march towards Mont Cenis,

every furlong was marked by some distracting incident

some new disaster that

diminished their number, and sickened their hearts.

Mothers, to shelter their

infants,

bared their own emaciated forms

to the blast, and,

the lives of their ofEspring, sacrificed their owi.

keep pace with

their strength

The

by seeking

sick

down by the wayside,

who did so seldom rose

their military convoy, lay

by a

little

rest

yet those

to preserve

and aged, unable to

as if to revive

again, but died

The Catholic author above quoted tlius records the circumstances of their former expulsion ;" In the
beginning of 1665, a terrible edict was pasted, by which the Waldenses and their tamilies were ordered to quit
few days. The onjy alternatives were conversion to the Roman Catholic apostolic fiiith,
or the sale of their inheritance to those professing it. This order compelled them, in the depth of winter, to

their Valleys within a

undertake a journey over the Alps through deep snow, the hardships of which might have moved the very rocke
to compassion but compassion was a feeling to which those sent to enforce the order were insensible," &c. &c.

It

is

a most pleading duty to add, that, in several instances, the Catholic

cution of their ungrateful task, were

exiles with all the

moved with

humanity and indulgence

officers

and men charged with the exeand treated the miserable

pity at the scenes they witnessed,

in their power.

CROSSING THE ALPS.

109

with their eyes turned towards their " desolate Zion."

The

them under the circumstances

dred and

fifty

Mont Cenis

described,

Having halted one night

presented a very different road to what

morning was ushered in by

all

Observing

certain danger

strongest,

and the

this,

those

the

five o'clock

Darkness soon overtook

and before sunrise more than one hun-

had perished on the road.

which

to the Alps.

had been ouly

edict

proclaimed that very morning at the gates of the prison, and at

same evenmg the inmates were driven forth

at the foot of

now

does

it

symptoms which usually precede a

to

which

it

the

hiu-ricane.

must expose even the

should they attempt the ascent at that hour, the exiles earnestly

entreated the officer in

command

to be permitted to continue their halt for a

short space longer, or until the hurricane had wasted

had no authority

to grant their prayer

his

march was resumed under the most

snow-storm,

the Alps,

in

di-eary forebodings.*

at all times a

is

The officer, however,

itself.

orders were peremptory

and the

tourmente, or

most dangerous occurrence;

although the experienced

and robust hunter may occasionally weather

terrible force, the feeble are

borne down without remedy, and

the precipices, are buried under the snow.

resembling pouuded

ice,

is

for
its

not swept over

if

During the hurricane, the snow,

like waves of sea-foam

tossed furiously around

carried into the air, and then deposited in deep overwhelming masses along the

In

traveller's path.

in the

its effects,

the snow-storm of the Alps

Great Desert, saturating the

with

air

its

particles,

is

like the sand-storm

and when blowing

in

the face, producing blindness, and blistering the skin.

Overtaken by a hurricane of
strength to abide

Many

its

of them were without

had neither

this description, the miserable exiles

fury, nor covering to shelter

them from

and almost naked

shoes,

its

piercing cold.

emaciated

in body,

The most

depressed in mind, and suffering under the effects of active disease.

afflicting spectacle in this harrowing procession was that of the poor mothers and

their infants

conunon

driven

dictates of

forth

which charity prescribes

been

said,

into the inhospitable desert at a

time

when

the

humanity should have cherished them with those comforts

for

the sick and dying.

" But they might,"

" have apostatized and remained in their

own

it

has

True, but

Valleys."

such indulgence would, in their estimation, have been too dearly purchased.

violation of

conscience can never

lead to

* Aifecting to soften the harshness of the edict, the

permanent comfort

Duke gave an

and they

order for provisions to these exiles on

march through Savoy but no sooner did they pass the Piedmontese frontier, than they were overtaken
by courier upon courier, who, demanding to see the order aUuded to, carried it back with them from the top
Mont Cenis. Thus were they left to perish of liunaer, or to proceed as Heaven might enable
them man had done his worst. " Que se serait jamais imagine," says Aniaud, " que pour t^pargner un peu
depai?i a un Prince, on I'eiit ote a ceux, qui n'avaient point cpnrgne leur sang ei leur vie pour smi service /"
Preface.
their

of the dreary

F F

no

THE WALDENSES.

preferred

death

the discharge of

in

husbands and parents

to

duty

tlieir

the

in

company of

that apostasy could have yielded

all

them

at

their

home.

All traces of the path by which they had ascended were speedily obliterated.

They had now only

the dreadful

alternative

of struggling

along the

brink

of treacherous precipices, or giving themselves up to despair, and making their

One by one

death-bed at once in the snow.

by

their

companions

for the sharp drift,

the feeble dropped off unperceived

which the wind threw incessantly in

their faces, destroyed the faculty of vision; while the features, thus

to

were so disguised that they could hardly be recognised by

it,

familiar

The momentary apprehension

acquaintances.

desperate efforts which

it

most

of death also, and the

required to maintain a precarious footing, suspended

even the faculty of speech, and rendered them alike incapable of

So exhausted were they, that when one

of tendering assistance.

exposed

their

soliciting,
fell,

and

the next

had no power to raise him no power to speak one soothing word but stag!"
gered forward through the storm vvdthout once ejaculating " God deliver thee
Their faculties were benumbed
selfishness,

Others,

to contemplate.

fiery trials at the

and, in their zeal for others, forgetting

this ill-fated

mother

sheet.

It

in the present

personal risk.

all

But neither

counsel,

strength, could avert the disasters of that terrible march.

band of " martyrs and confessors" eighty-six perished in the

still

clasping,

in the

may be

.But here the reader

was

in reference to scenes like

known Ode

embrace of death, her famished offspring

and age and infancy wrapped together in the same

any description of ours must

hand of man, acted

they saw the bodies of these miserable victims stretched on the snow

to her breast

well

his feelings

After the hurricane, when some merchants were crossing the moun-

ascent.
tains,

the

would have shocked

supporting the feeble, encouraging the timid,

instance like guardian angels,

nor courage, nor

it

however, with that happy presence of mind which

had stood the proof of many

Of

imparted to each an appearance of

despair

which, but a few hours previously,

fall far

left to

this as exhibited

in

the previous persecution thnt Milton wrote

Avenge,
Lord thy slaughtered saints, whose bones
Lie scattered on the Alpine mountains cold
Even them who kept thy faith so pure of old.
!

all

our fathers worshipped stocks and stones,

Forget not; in thy book record their groans,

Slain by the bloody Pi^montese, that loUed

Mother and

The

infant

down

the rocks.

vales redoubled to the hiUs,

To Heaven.

own mind

short of the reality.*

When

stern winding-

picture the scene in his

Their moans

and they

Their martyred blood and ashes sow

liis

ARRIVAL IN GENEVA.

About the middle

Ill

of December, the survivors of this miserable band of

but so exhausted,
presented themselves imder the vealls of Geneva
that several of them, " finding the end of their lives in the beginning of their
exiles

liberty,"

the city.

a word
to

dropped dovm and expired between the outer and the inner gates of
Others were so benumbed with cold, that they could not articulate

many and

those the strongest

stooped

towards the earth, unable

hold themselves erect, and staggered from faintness and disease.

Their once

robust limbs shivered under the cold paroxysms of ague, while others, having
entirely lost the use of them, could not raise their hands to accept the proffered
relief.

They had

had reduced

the appearance of

to skeletons,

Now, however,

all

men whom some

and then driven forth

that humanity could suggest,

hood could supply, was brought

to their

terrible siege

and famine

to perish in the desert.

all

that a generous brother-

reUef but the inquiries and recognitions

:

which afterwards took place between those who had arrived

first,

and those who

brought up the sadly diminished rear, were so affecting as to melt the bystanders
to tears.
"

For all had lost some loved, and loving one

fond and faithful heart some friendly handThat now lay bleaching on the alpine snow."
;

Some

Having thus

briefly detailed

the principal facts attending the expulsion of

the Waldenses from Piedmont, and their

shall

now

arrival

on the Swiss

frontier,

we

subject to the period which intervened between that

confine our

event and their re-establishment in the Valleys.

In

this view,

we

shall follow

the narrative of Henri Arnaud, illustrating the places and circumstances therein

mentioned, by such additional notes and authorities as

may

tend to identify the

one and confirm the other.

As
in the

soon as the sun'iving remnant of the Waldenses had reached Geneva,

manner above

stated,

and support which their

and received from

were taken to drive them from

likely to favour,

by

its

excellent citizens that solace

this

temporary asylum.

immediate vicinity to the Savoy

its

demanded, means
Geneva appeared too

state of utter destitution so loudly

to reinstate themselves in their late inheritance

territory,

any attempt

and, therefore, by harbouring

the exiles, would have exposed itself to the charge of connivance.

In the mouth of February, 1687, they had

cantons, where the inhabitants

On

all

The

An

the Italian plains, where

triple tyrant

still

that from these

may

fly

the Babylonian woe."

arrived

in

the Protestant

in offering

them the most

doth sway

may grow

hundredfold, who, having learnt thy

Early

all

ded with one another

way

THE WALDENSES.

112
cordial

retreat

favour,

united with

sympathy,

and the provision thereby secured

Their

service.

for their families, might, if

remembrance of past

could, have soothed the

God

most friendly

the

afflictions,

what they had

could overcome.

they

that

to bless

Him

without

The remembrance

however, neither present comfort nor future prospects

lost,

In the midst of

were exiles

tlieir

any thing

and led them

brought them into a land where they could serve

for having

molestation, and reap the fruits of their labour in peace.

of

principal

was in the canton of Bern, where the public measures adopted in

their

all

all

these motives to thankfulness, they felt

thoughts

and

associations

and

Valleys from which they had been so cruelly expelled

were with the

they secretly, but

firmly, resolved to recover their inheritance.

For the attainment of

Tlie first of these,

without leaders

grand object, they made three distinct

this

made without duly weighing

almost without

arms and

resources, proved an entire failure.

where the governor prevented

The

efforts.

the danger of the experiment,

unprovided with the most ordinary

enterprise was discovered at Lausanne,

their embarking,

and ordered them,

in the

name

of the canton where they had been so hospitably received, to abandon their

They accordingly separated

rash project, and return to their adopted homes.

and again retiring into the

resumed
excited

tlieir

commmies appointed

quiet and industrious occupations.

of the public observation, was

little

mortification

different

among

now

Their

failure,

which had

only a subject of interest or

But, while every restless

themselves.

for their residence,

symptom appeared

have subsided, they were secretly engaged in devising measures for renewing
With this view, they
the enterprise under more auspicious circumstances.

to

selected three
to discover the

men

of tried courage and experience to reconnoitre the country,

most secure paths across the mountains, and where the rivers

might be crossed near

their

themselves with

ingratiate

Valleys, and thereby induce

They were

sources.

the

inhabitants

them

to

particularly

instructed to

immediately bordering upon

the

bake bread, and have a supply ready in

the several stations mentioned, for the use of the expedition.*

Charged with

these important instructions, the spies set out and reached their destination

without accident or interruption.

fortunate

for,

by

On

their return,

however, they were

by night, they were watched with suspicion, and

finally

On

questioned as to the

being charged with this crime, and

answered that their only object was

* It

is

so that

it

to

strictly

purchase lace

apprehended as brigands.

and, as

fact,

much

customary to bake the bread in these Valleya so hard as to give it the oonsiatence of
be preserved for a long time without any diminution of its quality.

may

less

selecting those paths least frequented, and travelling chiefly

they

of that
sea-biscuit,

SECOND ENTERPRISE OF THE EXILES.

was manufactured

article

mere exercise of

in the district, they

were searched, and some sheets of

their persons

writing paper being found, they placed them before the

they contained any secret correspondence

to conununicate

the

of comiction.

By

was

trial

to traffic,

to place in the

This explanation, however, though plausible,

their traffic.

was received with suspicion

113

went from place

heat would render

such

legible,

it

thinking that if

fire,

as sympathetic inks are

used

and prove the easy means

however, nothing was elicited; and the next

them specimens of the lace in which they pretended
question them as to its value.
This artifice proved decisive
this process,

to place before

and

to

one of them having offered six crowns for a piece not worth three,

for

was

at

once concluded

they were not merchants,

that

but spies

and

it

this

opinion being confirmed by those present, the adventurers were thrown into
prison, and their

form

money

confiscated.

but, in a regvdar trial

former declaration

The charge was now brought up

which followed, the accused

and one of them, who had been a pedlar in Languedoc,

stated that he could bring

cularly from Montpelier

good proofs

in his favour

On

and Lunel.

hearing

from that province, parti-

this,

the magistrate sent for

an individual who had often travelled in these parts, and ha\dng

of

all

in legal

stiU persisted in their

his confirmation

that the prisoner had stated, they were dismissed at the end of eight days,

but without any portion of the money being restored to them.*

Thus

released,

where their report was looked

exiles and gave so favourable a

they made good their retreat to Switzerland

for

with intense anxiety by their brother

statement of the country, that

it

was

resolved, in a council held on the occasion,

hazard a second enterprise by way of the great St. Bernard.f

Although
homes and property were now in the hands of strangers, their hopes were
by no means desperate for, by a minute inspection of the roads and by-paths,
it was found that
several of the mountains, formerly deemed impassable,
to

their

presented only such

cause, could readily

were

difficulties

as men, embarked in so good a

Thus determined, active measures

and dangers

surmount or endure.

immediately adopted, and a general rendezvous appointed at Bex,

the Bernese frontier, near St. Maurice.

Here they expected

without causing any public alarm as to their intention

to

but,

on

have mustered
although every

precaution was used, the march conducted by night, and the various parties
arrived by different roads, they could not escape the vigilance of the neigh-

bouring cantons, whose suspicions were confirmed by the sudden disappearance,

from the garrison of Geneva, of sixty exiles who had entered into that

This, however, was afterwards restored in a time and

diate ])erquisite

t for a

it

was now detained.

manner

little

anticipated

by those

Vide ' Fifth Day's March," in the present work,

description of this Pass, see the Authors

Switzerland Illustrated,

vol.

ii.

vol.

for

service.

whose imme-

ii.

pp. 150-1.

THE WALDENSES.

114

by mutual correspondence between Zurich, Bern, and

It is also probable, that,

Geneva, their scheme had already transpired, and that the boat which the exiles

had previously engaged

keep

to

to

meet them with arms

was not suffered

at Villeneuve,*

appointment.

its

Informed of the enterprise now on

foot, the inhabitants of

Savoy and the Vallais

caught the alarm, and kindling their signals along the frontier, placed every

The

thing in a warlike attitude.

bridge of St. Maurice, which forms the key

of the Vallais, was occupied by a strong guard, which

by

unless

crossing the river below

and the exiles

to adopt

felt

in

on

all

it

was impossible

sides,

advance was

their

deliberating on the measures they

mider such trying circumstances, they were invited, in number

between six and seven hundred,

Here M. Torman,

to assemble in the Protestant

the chief magistrate of Aigle,

in

church of Bex.

a pathetic

exhorting them to zeal and patience, pointed out to them vnth

discourse,

much

friendly

the folly and temerity of their persisting in an enterprise which,

solicitude,

having

to avoid,

which the want of boats

once more that a blow to their fondest

While anxiously

hopes was approaching.

were

alternative

Thus hemmed

rendered impracticable.

rendered impossible

an

now become

public, could only terminate in consequences

the afiair in

its

most preju-

Reflecting on this salutary and timely counsel, they saw

dicial to themselves.

true light

and Henri Arnaud, their pastor and captain, taking

advantage of this state of mind, followed up the impression already made, by

addressing them in a lecture from the words of Scripture
flock

.-"

dency.

a text which was peculiarly soothing to them in this

At

" Fear
moment

not, little

of despon-

the conclusion of this address, the exiles, on the invitation of the

generous magistrate, followed him to Aigle, where bread was distributed amongst
them, and the best lodgings in the tovm prepared for their reception.

next took upon himself to entertain

Waldenses, in his own house

M. Arnaud, and

and crowned

this noble line of

ing a loan of two hundred dollars for the use of those

more

distant cantons, and

imlooked

for generosity

conduct by furnish-

who had come from

were unprovided with the means of returning.

on the part of Torman, made them

the harsh treatment they had received on their

He

the principal officers of the

first

feel

arrival

at

more

the

This

sensibly

Vevay, where

an order of the magistrates refused not only to lodge them in the town or
neighbourhood, but

them with
A

strictly

provisions.

conmaanded that no person should dare

One poor widowf

to furnish

alone, in defiance of the prohibition,

the ancient Pennicufas where the Rhone

falls into the lake of Geneva.

and one that can hardly be viewed but as a special dispenfire, some time afterwards, thehouse of the poor iridow here mentioned, though in the very centre of the conflagration, sustained no damage.

It

small
is

toivTi

recorded by Arnaud as a remarkable

sation of Providence, that

when the town

of

fact,

Vevay was nearly destroyed by

FAILURE OF THE ENTERPRISE.

at the risk of having

and

115

her liouse rased to the ground, ventured to supply

them with a few necessaries while they lay encamped in an adjoining meadow.
These rigorous measures, however, were not the result of inhumanity on the
part of the

Vevay

magistrates, but in compliance with positive injunctions fi'om

the Bernese government, which, from political motives, ordered that no

mark

of

encouragement, or of public sympathy, should be exhibited in their favour.

Having thus

entirely failed in their second enterprise, the exiles

were much

disconcerted, and retired from the frontier with feelings of chagrin and disappoint-

Their

ment.

however, had operated against them in another way;

failure,

had roused the government of Savoy into extreme

hastily ordered to the frontier, so as to be ready to act at a

for

it

was

fully believed that the late enterprise

and that the Waldenses, though

it

Troops were

vigilance.

moment's notice

would be succeeded by another,

baffled in the present instance,

would speedily

"With this conviction on his mind, the duke of Savoy

return to the charge.

men each, commanded by the

men of high family and approved

ordered two regiments of infantry, of a thousand

Comte de Berne and

talents, into the

the Marquis de Caudree,

department of Chablais, where they fixed their quarters

To

corps of observation.

these were added several squadrons of horse

with the militia force, previously on duty in

all

the villages* bordering Geneva,

the frontier was literally encumbered with troops.

But

the circumstance which

gave most uneasiness to the Waldenses, was the charge of connivance,

open encouragement, with which

violation of the existing treaty,

it

as n

so that,

not

if

was alleged the authorities of Bern,

had countenanced the

late

in

This

enterprise.

charge, directed against a people whose strict observance of their obligations

as allies

is

proverbial, gave great offence to the cantons

upon the Waldenses

as the cause of that

and they began

But
how anxious they were

fomenting between the duke of Savoy and the citizens of Bern.

little

they deserved these reproaches, and

the good opinion of their powerful ally, the magistrates of

seriously of ordering the

Waldenses to quit the canton.

Zurich, actuated by a similar

spirit,

to

now

show how

to conciliate

Bern began

to think

The government of

convoked an assembly of the Protestant

cantons at Aran, at which the principal

were summoned to appear.

to look

misunderstanding which was

men

In obedience to

belonging to these imhappy exiles

this order,

two of those who had

taken refuge in Bern, with an equal proportion from Bale, Neuchatel, Schaffhausen, and St. Gall,

In this assembly

it

made

was

their appearance at the time

finally

and place appointed.

decided that the Waldenses should quit the Swiss

* St. Julien, Lancy, Tremblierefl, Cheiie, Bellerive all (.onsidcrable villages on the limits of
Geneva.

THE WALDENSES.

lib

But

territory.

prise,

and

as they

panied with an

two months had elapsed since the

as

of the island formed by the lakes of Morat and Neuchatel,

offer

as a distinct residence, the present

mandate was a severe and unexpected blow

In conformity with this

to their hopes.

failure of their last enter-

had been supplied during that interval with provisions, accom-

Brandenburg was next proposed

to

new

them

order in council, the territory of

under the immediate patronage of the sovereign.

To

settle

their objection served only

lingering near the,

still

frontier.

prevent the

consequences which must have resulted to the Swiss

evil

from any similar attempt,

cantons

might

they had not yet abandoned the hope of renewing

the late attempt, and with that view were desirous of

Savoyard

tliey

however, the Waldenses

Tliis,

But

objected to on account of the great distance.

to confirm the suspicion that

where

as a place

tranquillity to

fiiX

a day

it

was deemed expedient

when they should

for

the

public

positively quit the canton.

This

order was accordingly passed, and on the day appointed, the Waldenses, taking
the route to Bern, set out once

more

in search of a

new

On

country.

who

arrival in that city, the cordial reception of the inhabitants,

their

vied with one

another in showing them kindness, fully evinced that, in adopting severe measures
against them, the government was actuated

by

this alternative left in order to preserve the

pubhc peace, and prevent an open

at Bern, the exiles proceeded by

After a brief halt

rupture with Savoy.

water, some to Schaffhausen, others to Zurich

political motives,

and had only

but they were not suffered to

depart empty-handed, the secretary of the town ha\ing orders to distribute

money amongst them

as they

places mentioned, they

On

embarked on the Aar.

had permission

to continue

their arrival at the

on the

favourable opportunity should offer of proceeding farther.

frontier

till

The duchy

of

some

Wir-

temberg, which closely bordered on the canton of Schaffhausen, and abounded

in

pasturage

Valleys

and

vineyards

presented

a settlement in this

new

Frederick Charles,* and

The Duke consented

the

tion during the Thirty Years'

beine

strict

thereby

an inviting aspect.

reminding them of their own native

Witli the hope, therefore, of forming

country, they sent three deputies to wait upon

solicit liis

permission.

Their

suit

was very

Duke

favoui-ably

more readily to this petition, as his territory had lost one-fourth of its populaWar. The measure, however, was by no means popular with his subjects, who,

Lutherans, raised endless objections on the score of religion and

politics, so that the negociations

Several questions were referred to the Universities ; and some idea may be formed
of the want of charity, and the tedious procedure in these matters, by the simple fact, that a " book was
written in the Protestant university of Tubingen on the extreme danger of receiving people who had no con-

proceeded very slowly.

What more could have been expected from the university of Turin ? To one of the
questions sent to the legal faculty at Tubingen, an answer was retured that " The Waldenses could not be

fession of faith."

allowed the free exercise of

thc-ir religion in

any place incorporated with the ducal terntoiy, but might enjoy

PATRONIZED BY WILLIAM
listened to,

and even a grant of land offered them on the part of the Duke, which

they could take immediate possession

to

117

III.

remain in one united fraternity,

But, as the exiles had a strong desire

of.

ground could not be granted

sufficient

the whole colony, and the negotiation was broken

for

Until other arrangements

off.

could be made, however, they were permitted, at their

own

earnest supplication,

strengthened by the intercession of some of the other cantons, to spend the

ensuing winter in the territories of Zurich and Schaffhausen.

In the mean time, liberal contributions were raised for them, both in England

In the latter alone, the collection amounted to ninety-two

and Holland.

thousand crowns, which his serene highness the Prince of Orange

King William

M.

III. of glorious

memory sent

to

de Convenant, with exact economy and discrimination.

these unfortunate exiles were supplied with the

afterwards

be distributed by the hands of

Thus,

for a time,

means of subsistence

but their

present condition was embittered by the uncertainty of their future lot; for,
as yet, they

had no " resting-place," and had

stiU to look for

they might pitch their tents together, and forget,

land of their birth.

if

a country where

they could, the ungrateful

Various projects on this head were from time to time

recommended, discussed, and

to the wilds of America,

rejected.

Among

these,

was a proposed emigration

and the Cape of Good Hope.*

In the midst of these

doubts and perplexities, an invitation from the Elector of Brandenburgf to

settle in his

gracious

dominions, produced a salutary effect upon their minds

offer

representations of those
obstacles

and the

Many, however, on hearing the

the country, were discouraged by the

was immediately accepted.

who had

visited

which distance, and a language and climate

own, threw in the way of their progress.

totally different

from their

This hesitation was viewed by the

Swiss as a proof of obstinacy and over-fastidiousness which ought not to be

that privilege in laads dependent upon the Duke."* " Non de territoris Wirtemburgis sed in terris." Thus,
suspicion following open persecution, the Waldenses were left in a position which could not but detract from
professing brother Protestants, while it gave an almost justifiable air to the violence instituted against them

by the Catholic government of Piedmont.

* In a letter from one of their pastors, named Bilderdeck, and dated Cologne June

3,

1688,

is

the following

says he, " from the Hague, of the 31st ult., informs me that the States-General have
of 39,000 livTes for the transport of the Vaudois to the Cape of Good Hope." It will be
remembered, that, at this time, the Dutch had already settlements in that country, among which, it is propassage.

"

destined the

letter,"

sum

Waldenses would have met with a friendly reception. This proposition, however, was abandoned,
owing, no doubt, to the secret determination which the exiles stiU indulged of reconquering their native
bable, the

Valleys.
t

This noble conduct has been imitated by his descendants on the throne of Prussia, and particularly by the
in a manner to which we have more than once alluded in these

present Sovereign Frederic-William III

volumes.
' Consult " Authentic Details

;"

" History of the

II

German Waldenses."

THE WALDENSES.

118
indulged

and

after several

harangues aud remonstrances,

it

was

finally

decided

that the exiles should enter into a solemn obligation to go to whatever country

recommend

their friends should

by Arnaud,

protested against

as

it

an arbitrary act

In obedience, nevertheless, to

and children, commenced

so doing

in

was highly approved

M. Choudens,

to

them

whom

to

which his assent had been extorted.

about eight hundred men, women,

this authority,

their pilgrimage into

secution of their journey.

escorting

This deed was signed

as their futui-e residence.

and captain, but who, in complying with the order,

their pastor

Germany

every facility was

of,

At Frankfort on

and

as their conduct

given for the

pro-

the Main, they were received by

the elector of Brandenburg had confided the duty of

to Berlin.

Having arrived

with a most gracious reception

fi-om

in this capital, they

were honoured

Serene Highness, whose generous

his

support, and paternal solicitude for the welfare of these destitute strangers,

transmit his

name

this division of the exiles,

and return

to the

wiU

Here, then, we take leave of

to the latest generations.*

main body,

wliich

still

remained in

the united cantons, where their reluctance to adopt the counsel held out exposed

them

to

many

privations,

been welcomed on

first

and alienated the kindly feelings with which they had

setting foot

Finding themselves obliged

way they

on the

soil

of Switzerland.

and provide

to separate,

for their livelihood in the

some were dispersed in the country of the Grisons

taking the opposite direction, settled on the frontiers of Wirtemberg.
party had certain lands assigned them in the Palatinate, where the
best

Philip

the

could,

WiUiam

of Neuburg, took

new and

introduction of

them under

peaceful

his

subjects,

protection

many

third

elector,

and thus, by

Their destiny

and a rational prospect of being able to provide

consoled the poor exiles for the

families,

others,

found amends for the late

ravages committed on his territory by the desolating hand of war.

seemed now fixed

for their

severe tribulations which had

so often put their faith and constancy to the proof.

But

still,

other views and

attachments, of which they could not divest themselves, engaged their minds
in secret, directed their thoughts

ceedings,

homeward, and made them

aspire to a final

In the mean time, whilst peace and industry directed

restoration.

M. Arnaud,

all

their pro-

taking advantage of this halcyon interval, and accompanied

by a Waldensian captain, named Besson, undertook a journey into Holland.

His design in this embassy was to obtain an interview with the prince of Orange

the avowed
*

friend of the exiles

To commemorate

tageous to

Ills

to

coimnunicate their plans, and secure the

this great and important event

so honourable to the prince himself, and so advannew subjects a painting was afterwards engraved by the celebrated Fomeiser, of Bale, and
Arnaud.
first king of Prussia, with a suitable and impressive address

presented to his successor, the

ANOTHER EFFORT TO RETURN.

and that of other

interest of his Highness,

Waldensian cause.

to favour the

mented M. Arnaud
be

to

patient,

In his

not

lose

to

of returning to his

own

influential persons,

last

courage,

of

money

and, by denying

them

all

still

of

Neuburg

obliged them to consult their safety

by

flight.

monument

Hardly had the labours of

much

now raised

to the palatinate

Their recollections of the French

success in Piedmont, two years

encouragement to renew the

where they

conflict here,

The

were so few in number, and placed in the very centre of the war.

and

privileges, therefore,

the

overtures

and, after

of his

the quarrels between the duke of Orleans

army, which they had opposed with so

little

as a

hopes of repose in a strange country, was

new colony commenced, when

and their new sovereign, the prince
the

them

might

greater manifestations of his

preparing to restore them to their own.

before, gave

troop together,

to defray the expenses

people.

That Providence, however, who had preserved them

power

little

however adverse circumstances

him with a sum

mercy, designed these poor wanderers for

silently

who were known

audience, the Prince highly compli-

exhorted liim to keep his

for his zeal,

appear, and then dismissed

119

estates

with which the Elector had invested them, as well as

made to them by the duke of Wirtemberg,* were declined

much deliberation as to the course they were now to pursue, they

resolved to retrace their steps towards Switzerland.

In adopting

this course,

worthy of remark, that they made one important step towards their own
country; and that the French, who had driven them thence, were now the
it

is

unconscious instruments for accelerating their return.

of

God was

when

abundantly manifest.

This

new

calamity,

In

all this,

the finger

which occurred just

the difficulties of settlement had been surmounted, and compelled

them

be gathered by their enemies, so sensibly touched the

hearts of the Swiss, that all past grounds of complaint were forgotten, and the
to leave their crops to

unfortunate exiles received once more with open arras.

Thus unexpectedly restored to the Swiss soil, they were distributed in small
among the Protestant cantons, where they supported themselves by
the labour of their hands, and led honest and exemplary lives.f
"With more
time for reflection, their minds became more and more impressed with the
conviction that they had too long forgotten their home, and that the misfortunes
which had befallen them were intended to admonish them that God would not
colonies

The Duke

offered to give

employment

to

the effective, and to support those

who could not

support

themselves.

t During all the time of their exile, no complaint was made against them for bad conduct, or improper
behaviour, except in one instance, at Zurich, where a Vaudois soldier carried away the gun of his
master,
which, in coming to the knowledge of the chiefs, was immediately restored to the owner.Jrnaud.

THE WALDENSES.

120

appoint them a resting-place, save in

suaded of
to

their

tliis,

hazard their

lives

Fully per-

paternal Valleys.

o\vn

tlieir

minds were soon made up, and they solemnly determined

and

all

they possessed in one last effort to accomplish their

This resolution was strengthened by the spies who had visited the
country more than a twelvemonth before, and reported that the duke of Savoy
had withdrawn his troops from the other side of the mountains ever since the
object.

preceding spring.

The happy and

glorious Revolution in England, also, inspired

them with an invincible resolution not to succumb. In the Prince of Orange,

who had now ascended the English throne, they beheld an august and able
protector, and flattered themselves, that the antipathy which existed between
him and the French king, added to his zeal for the Protestant religion,
and the obligations which he owed to those potentates who had favoured
his

In

advancement to the crown, could not

afforded Louis

XIV.

fail

to

verified

much weighty

too

produce a war with France.

war was soon declared, and

occupation in other quarters to find

movements of a despised remnant of Waldenses.

leisure for watching the

The

were speedily

their conjectures

tliis

present, therefore, appeared an auspicious

mask, and openly declaring themselves.

But

moment

as these

that both their former attempts had failed, chiefly

experience had

made them wary and

;

their plan

for

throwing off the

poor exiles were fully aware

by want of proper

was now

caution,

laid with the greatest

secrecy and precision, in order that the passage through Savoy might not be

shut against them, nor any obstacles thrown in their

way by

the Swiss.

Great

precautions were also taken that no imputation of connivance might attach to

the government of Bern

chiefs, that the

and so

were the measures concerted by their

skilfully

people began their march without knowing whither they were

going, or the immediate object in which they were to embark.

dezvous was

tlie

forest of

Nyon, well adapted

for that purpose.

remain concealed, with the means of supplying themselves

The point of renHere they could

vsdth provisions

fi-om

the neighbouring towns, and have ready access to the lake of Geneva, on which

they could embark at night without

much

fear of detection.

the majority having abeady arrived, they

to join

them

fi-om the Grisons

much
The Spanish

now waited only

At

this

rendezvous

for those

who were

and Wirtemberg, but who, having a longer march

This, unhappily, was too soon

before them, ran

greater risk of discovery.

realized.

envoy, Cassati, observing some suspicious movements in

the country, apprised the

duke of Savoy's minister, Comte de Govon, who

on minutely investigating the

Uri, and took them prisoners,

affair,

to the

discovered these unfortunate people near

number

including several strangers, who, although no

of one hundred and twenty-two,

way concerned

in the plot, shared

EMBARKATION OF THE EXILES.

Their money, amounting to

the fete of their companions.

was

In their progress tlirough the Catholic

and maltreated.

they

that of Fribourg

Here one of

rehgion.

much

to

districts

particularly

on account of

insult

bitter

Bastie, a physician,

their nimiber,

was

left

half

consequence of the blows he had received, the marks of which he bore

d^'ad in

on

were exposed

hundred crowns,

five

and their persons cruelly insulted

seized, their property given to pillage,

their

121

At

his person during the rest of his days.

length, after a long

and painful

journey over the Alps, they were thrown into the prisons of Turin.*

But taking
where

brethren were

Wearied out with expectation of

own

of their

we

leave of these for the present,

unfortunate

their

return to the forest of Nyon,

waiting

their appearance,

vain

in

for

their

arrival.

and in constant apprehension

retreat being discovered, they resolved to cross the lake without

further delay.

Indeed, no time was

now

to

be

for it

lost;

was whispered in

the neighbourhood that people had been seen lurking in the woods. This report,

contrary to expectation,

among

proved of service to them

for,

wagers being laid

the inhabitants that the exiles were engaged in some

curiosity induced

said they

many

new

enterprise,

persons to proceed in boats to those places where

had assembled. But the

curiosity thus

it was
awakened served a most important

purpose, and one which the exiles could not regard but as a direct interposition

from Heaven in their favour.

The

boats which had conveyed these people to

the suspected quarters, were pressed into temporary

these,

amounting

small,

and imsuitable

When

ation.

Tour,

to ten,

ser\'ice

by the

for the occasion

and with

though

they prepared immediate embarknow assuming the name of M. de

for

aU was ready, M. Arnaud,

la

offered up a prayer in the midst of

his devoted followers for their success,

the scene of embarkation commenced, and the

same evening of Friday, the ] 6th

of August, between the hours of ten and eleven, the

the blue waters of the

flotilla

was gliding across

Leman.
commencement, that

It is proper to observe, while recording this propitious

the

exiles

and four others which they had previously hired

previous day having been

solemnized as a public

fast

Protestant states of Switzerland, the inhabitants were too

their devotional exercises to observe

throughout the

much absorbed in
To this

what was passing around them.

the exiles were indebted for the uninterrupted leisure with which they were
suffered

pleted

M.
*

to quit the

Swiss shore.

Prangin, son of the late

Here they languished

of whom,

Their measures, however, were not com-

without one act of treachery,

it is

for several

months

singular to observe, were

history of Daniel

M.

and that of

Baltasar,

tlie

basest

description.

who had purchased some property

in great misery, losing in the interval four of their

named

number,

all

Daniel, a coincidence which led their brethren to remark the

and the three other Hebrews, who were thrown

into the fiery furnace.

Rentree.

THE WALDENSES.

122

Nyon, being attracted

close to the village of

the scene,

no sooner

them joining

M. Arnaud and

belield

all

othci-s

by

curiosity to

on their knees, and heard

he posted

in prayer, than, like another Judas,

divulged to the French minister

many

like

his people

Geneva, and

off to

he had heard and witnessed.

This done,

the latter started immediately for Lyons, and there ordered a squadron of horse
to intercept the exiles in their progress through Savoy.

But

The

the scene of embarkation.

to return to

the boats part company,

it

and although a

performed without accident

had only the happy

contact with eighteen of their brethren,

a boat from Geneva.

who were proceeding

for

them on the Swiss

side,

tion to see but three return, the others having deserted

off the

money which had been

expected services.

judging

it

which made

of bringing

effect

them

in

them

in

to join

But, after landing, and sending back the boats for their

companions who were waiting

and carried

was happily

trip

first

light breeze sprang up,

For

they had the mortifica-

them

cruel disappointment there

this

in the

hour of need,

paid the owners in advance for their

highly advisable to proceed with

all

was no remedy; and

expedition from a place that

could not be without danger, they were compelled to abandon two hundred of
their fellow exiles on the shore of Switzerland.

Besides

this,

discouragement to see the three boats that had remained

several very efficient

men, but who objected

they had the great

with

faithful, return

to proceed further in the enterprise

They learned, also, with much regret, that

who had left Lausanne the night previously, had been arrested on
way, and when released and suffered to proceed, found themselves too late

unless they were properly armed.

certain parties
their

We

to take a share in the enterprise.

need not here enter into any minute

explanation of the motives by which the boatmen above mentioned were induced
to

commit an act of such

Savoy, had the

jjlot

heartless treachery

the fear of losing their lives in

been discovered, or of being subjected

to

their return

home, appears

to

so dishonest

and dastardly.

Before quitting the subject, there

well deserves commemoration.

punishment on

have influenced their minds in adopting a policy

private individual,

is

one

named Signat

fact

which

refugee

from Toimeins, in Guienne, and for some time settled as a boatman at Nyon
ha\dng offered to convey the exiles across without remuneration,

performed his promise

bid them farewell, the

zealously

but, having disembarked with his friends in order to

men

left in

the boat, taking advantage of the circumstance,

immediately plied their oars, and

in vain that he called after

them

left their
;

master to

shift for himself.

It

was

his orders to return only accelerated their

speed in the opposite direction, and he found himself at once robbed of his
property, and abandoned to great personal danger.

He

durst not return

home

HENRI ARNAUD,
by land,

123

caught by the Savoyards, the attempt might have cost him his

for, if

Sympathising with him in

life.

embarrassment, the exiles exhorted him

this painful

not to mourn over the loss of his boat,

for,

seeing that he had incurred this

misfortime in serving them, they were bound to indemnify him.

With

this

intention they proposed that, if he would join his fortune with theirs, they

would give him in

an excellent house

lieu of a small boat,

an

offer

which he

immediately accepted, and enrolled himself vnth the other members of the
enterprise.

But

became of the
tlie

as

little

may

our readers

band of

naturally feel

patriots after landing

country of their implacable enemies

The

in detail.
Ivoire,

sword

some
on

desire to

know what

this prohibited

shore

we proceed to narrate their adventures

point at which they disembarked was between Nernier and

towns of the Chablais

district

and from

this

they resolved to march,

in hand, for the recovery of their native Valleys,

their desecrated temples.

The numerous

and the restoration of

acts of valour to wliich this glorious

aim gave birth, and the labpurs and hardships to which the actors voluntarily
submitted in order to accomplish

and duration,

that, to narrate

this great object, are so unparalleled in

them more

clearly

measure

and circumstantially, we

shall

faithfully detail the events of every day, as they occuiTed during the march.

In compliment

to his great personal merit,

council,

the

following

all

to the successful

which he had been the chief in command

issue of that perilous enterprise of

and

but above

history

has been generally attributed to

Henry

Arnaud, afterward surnaraed the Great. This, however, as regards the authorship,
The title or expression on which the presumption was founded,
is incorrect.
namely, "

La

glorieuse rentree, &c. par

Henri Arnaud," applies

to his having

had the direction of the expedition, rather than to his having written the history
of it. The title of the work seems clearly to imply a " diary " of the expedition,
as

it

was conducted

not written, though, very probably, revised and corrected

by Arnaud.

From

unavoidable.

Caesar,

own achievements

various expressions

and other celebrated

in

the narrative, this conclusion

writers,

in the third person, but that

it

is

is

true, have related their

Arnaud

did not so,

may be

concluded from the narrative containing such sentences as the following:

" Ce zele et fameux conducteur" expressions which, it is probable, he

would never have employed

in speaking of himself.

But, without resting the

on any conjectures of our own, we shall quote the opinion of the late
In this extraordinary
M. Bert,* Moderator of the Waldensian churches.
enterprise, Arnaud acted in the double, and apparently irreconcileable, capacity

fact

" Cette histoire," says he,

Grand

Mais I'&rivain

"

est atlribuie a

doit avoir etc

ou

Henri Arnaud, que les Vaudois ont depuis sumomm^ le

Montoux, coUegue et compagnon d'oeuvre du pasteur

le pasteur

124

THE WALDENSES.

of commander-in-chief and

minister of

the

and ministerial duties with an ardour and

gospel

fidelity

performing

his

military

which have never been sur-

After having brought his commission to a successfid termination, and

passed.

replanted, so to speak, his band of exiles in their native VaUeys, he received

the brevet-rank of colonel from the duke of Savoy

a conciliatory policy and the

command

who

had now adopted

of a regiment from King "William III.

of England.

When

the

Waldenses had

their ancient

condition of sending one thousand

was named

The

command by

to the

men

possessions restored to

to ravage the

French

frontier,

them on

Arnaud

the duke of Marlborough and Prince Eugene.

plan of attack from Piedmont was formed, and after reconnoitering Turin,

mentioned in the beginning of the present work,) Eugene led his army
through the passes of Savoy into France, wliile Marlborough continued in the

(as

The Waldenses, under Arnaud, were placed on the outposts

and when a sufficient body of troops had been drawn off
from the Rhine to oppose the attack from Piedmont, Eugene rapidly withdrew
by way of the Tyrol, leaving Arnaud to mask his retreat, and by frequent
Netherlands.

of Eugene's army

attacks from the mountains at different points, to detain the French troops

This object was effected ^vith so much success, that the allied
army had again united in the Low Countries before Eugene's absence fr-om
Savoy was known
and thus Arnaud materially contributed to the victories of
Hochstett and Blenheim. But notwithstanding this important service, the duke
in the south.

of Savoy listened to those

Waldenses to

rebellion,

who

asserted that

Arnaud wished "

The

and the formation of a republic."

he was only acting as senior pastor in

defence, that

and arranging

settling their differences,

the rebuilding of their houses and division of their property

to excite tlie

duties which
were rendered doubly perplexing by the return of many supposed to be
dead, but who had only remained in exile till the prospect of quiet possession

invited their retiurn

and he

was

fled in disguise,

crossing the Alps,

by the
Arnaud, ou

of no avail.

P. Bert, p. 42.

high price was set upon his head,

the Valleys.*

Once more

he sought an asylum in Germany, where he was received

duke of Wirtemberg,

le

never more to return to

and finished

his

brilliant

career in religious

proposant Rejiiauflin, qui fut depuis pasteur dans les Vallfes."ie Livre de Famille, par
Geneva, 1830. Reynaudin published at Basle, in 1695, his " Dissertatio Historica Theologica

de Waldensibus," in which he has left evidence of much talent and diligent research.
See " Authentic Details of the Waldenses;" " Life
of Henry Arnaud," p. 248; in which is a curious
inventory of his effects after his decease, by which it appears that he still retained his patrimonial property at

La

Tour, which, with every thing else that he possessed, amounted to 2520
his first marriage, survived him.

Three sons and two daughters, children by

florins,

equal to about 2267. lO*.

peace*

tomb

RETURN OF THE EXILES.

125

though not in woiidlj' prosperity at the venerable age of eighty.

His

is

to

still

be seen in the village church of Schonbrun, near Durmenz, a

Waldensian colony, with the following epitaph

" Valdensium Pedamontanoram pastor, nee non

Militum

venerandus ac strenuus

prffifectus,

Henricus Arnal-d sub hoc tumulo jacet.

Cemis

hie Arnold! cineres

sed gesta, labore?,

Infractumque animum, pingere nemo potest.

Millia in Allophilorum Jessides militat unus,

Unus

et

AUophilum

castra

ducemque quatit."
A.D. M.DCC.XXI.

Obiit VIII. Septemb. et Sepultus est

It reflects additional lustre

by pressing

invitations

to reside at their courts,

obscure village, where

on the memory of Arnaud,

from William

III.,

that, although

he could

by

edify

his

instruction,

example, share the privations, and direct the labours of that

was just beginning

honoured

Queen Anne, and Prince Eugene,

he preferred the exercise of his pastoral duties in an

to take root in

new

the

and the population reduced, by a long

soil.

fortify

little

The church

by

his

colony which

now

is

a ruin,

series of hardships, political changes,

and

emigration, to twenty or thirty small families.

which, it is hoped, may be generally acceptable

we now proceed to the work in question The Return of the
Waldenses from Exile, and the glorious Recovery of their native

With

this brief introduction,

to the reader,

Valleys.
Having now,

company with fourteen

in

others, effected a safe landing

Arnaud

eastern or Savoy side of the lake of Geneva,

on the

took instant measures for

the general security, by planting trusty sentinels at every accessible point.

done, he had the

men drawn up

in martial order as they stepped ashore,

Tliis

and

when the full complement had arrived they were formed into a corps, of which
Captam Bourgeois, of Neuchatel, had he arrived, was to have taken the command. But the cause why he was missing at the general rendezvous, will be
This corps, or maia body of the exiles, was subcUvided into

explained hereafter.

nineteen companies,! six of which were composed of strangers, abnost exclusively

* His colleague Montoux,

who had

also

been obliged to quit the Valleyp, was pastor of another snial

which, for the sake
it was here, probably, that the work
name of Arnaud was composed.

colony; and having easy intercourse with Arnaud,

of recommendation to public attention, bore the

Commune

Angrogne furnished three companies, under the command of Captains

Laurent Butfa, Etienne Frasche, and Michel Bertin that of St. Jean formed two companies, under
Captains Bellinn and Besson
Latour, one company under Captain Jean Frasche: Villar, one ditto
Prarustin, one
under Captain Paul Pellene Bobi, two companies, under Captains Martinat and Blondon
company, under Captain Daniel Odin St. Germain and Pramol, one company, under Captain Robert

t Of

these the

of

Macel, one company, under Captain Philip Tronc Poulat

K K

Prali,

one company, under Captain Peivot.

THE WALDENSES.

126

from Dauphiny and Languedoc, and the other

thirteen of native Waldenses.

Besides these, there were different parties, who, objecting to this classification,

Thus the entire

main body, and the

were formed into a volunteer company.

in three divisions

van-guard, the

^the

manner of regidar troops

an

who might be

was marshalled

rear-guard, after the

an-angement which they

In addition to Arnaud,

the order of march.

force

observed in

strictly

styled their patriarch,

M. Chyon, late of
M. Montoux, of Prajelas, who

the Exiles had also in their ranks two ministers of the gospel,

the church of Pont at Royans, in Dauphiny, and

was formerly minister of the church

at

Chambons,

in his native valley, and,

of the French church at Coire, in the Grisons, where he had

lastly,

family, that

he might share the fortunes of

Every tliuig being now provided for

the blessing of

Heaven upon

their

left lus

his brother exiles.

their personal safety, they solemnly

enterprise;

after

mvoked

which M. Chyon, the

minister above-named, proceeded forward to the nearest village, in the hope

But a Savoyard horseman, who had observed what was

gave the alarm, and Chyon being taken prisoner

of finding a guide.
passing

on

the

was conducted

lake,

to

Chamberry, where he remained a prisoner

concluded between

who had

Duke of Savoy and his

alarm now advanced towards

the

spread the

hand; but when Arnaud, attended by the

receive

to

Sieui-

till

exiles with pistol in

the

Turel and six privates, went

him, such was his agility in wheeling round and retracing Ids

steps, that although

a musket shot was fired after him,

it

fell

short of the

mark, and he escaped.

Apprehending from

was becoming general,

and that not a moment was now to be

officers

peace was

The horseman

subjects.

were sent fonvard with twelve

this circumstance that the

fusileers to

alarm

lost,

some

Ivoire,* in order to

make

the inhabitants lay aside theu- arms, and suffer the Waldenses to proceed

route without molestation.

their

Understanding from

case of refusal, their lives and property

the

summons was complied with;

spread

to
this

the

alarm

wovdd have been

fatal

to

would be consigned

but, in the

by kindhng

their

mean

time,

beacon-fires.

chilcU'en, for

With

this explanation,

whose

acts

and an

message
to fire

that,

on
in

and sword,

they had contrived

The consequences of

them, as involving an act of gross duplicity,

had they not succeeded in persuading the Waldenses

some

this

they were
offer

not to be

that the

that

it

was done by

considered responsible.

commandant of

the village and

These formed the native force. The six otlier companies were commanded by Captains Martin, Privat,
liucas', Turel, Tonfrede, and Chien.
* A small town on the lake, opposite Nyon, in the district of Chablais, and betnecn which and the village
of

Nemier

the disembarkation took place.

FIRST day's march.

an

them

of the customs should serve

officer

looked, and

all

by three

substituted

hostages, the

the guides were

Waldenses were studious

resistance.

They now continued

advance

to witness

much were
they

up

feelings

to

under

this,

the army,

with the

officers,

To

ai'ms.

excited,

demand any such

that they

coidd not

be with you!" while the cure of

refreshment,

their

Shortly after

without interruption,

and

the unusual spectacle of an armed corps on

their

passed " God

cellar for

also very soon set at liberty,

imder

such

that the peasantry and their cures flocked to the way-

excellent discipline,
side

and

to avoid every appearance of hostility unless

where they met with open

to

After

sent back,

and two gentlemen

castellan of Nernier,

named De Coudree and De Fora, but who were

as the

the offence was over-

being thus settled the Waldenses began their march.

more than half a league, however,

little

127

as guides,

its

help

Tilli

and would not accept of

march.

So

exclaiming as

threw open his

any

compensation.
Savoyard gentlemen, mounted and well armed, rode
and being challenged by the van-guard, desii-ed to speak
four

from
tliis

whom

they demanded their authority for thus marching

the Waldenses replied, that

authority, and besides

design they had taken

up arms.

it

was

was not

their province to

sufficiently well

known with what

it

Highly piqued by

uncompromising

this

commanded them to surrender.

had the word escaped them, when the main body made its

answer, they assumed an air of authority, and

But

scarcely

appearance,

and, instantly changing

who attended them

peasants

to

fall

theii-

tone,

the

cavaliers

ordered the

back, and would themselves have

made a

hasty retreat had they not been ordered to dismount and march as prisoners
at the

head of the advanced column.

This was done as a proper recompense for

the insolence with wliich they "

commanded" the soldiers to lay down their arms.

Ha^-ing now ascended a rising ground, where about two hundi-ed armed

peasants were descried near a forest, a detachment was immediately sent in

pursuit of them, wliile the main

should

have

concealed

body cautiously reconnoitred the wood,

an ambuscade.

M.

Gropel,

lest it

quarter-master to his

Royal Highness, and the Sieur Mouche,

castellan of

these

and having broken their arms and

peasants,

offered

little

resistance;

Boege,* who commanded

chums, the Waldenses took some of them as guides, but with this underthat if found unfaithful they should be hung up on the nearest

standing,
tree.

One

of the two leaders above-named they also carried along with them,

in order that

he might bear testimony to the quiet and orderly manner in

which the ai-my was conducted.

On

arri^dng at his house,

Boege, a small town between the Voirons and Bonne, and

commanding the

which lay

in the

valley of that name.

THE

128

immediate

line of

-tt-ALDENSES.

march, this gentleman pressed them to halt for refreshment

hut as they entertained some suspicion of his good

to proceed, they declined

the

and were desirous

faith,

Apprehensive, however, that the

invitation.

whole country would now be up in arms against them, they adopted the expe-

making the gentleman write the following note:

dient of

Waldenses having arrived here,

us

" A large

body of

number of two thousand,* have requested

accompany them, that we may have ocular demonstration of

to

we do hereby

conduct, which
for

to the

you

assure

whatever they take, 'and ask nothing but a free passage.

therefore to sound no alarum

by beU, nor beat of drum, and to dismiss your people,

arms." This letter, which was signed by

now under

should there be any

the gentleman and

their

They pay
We pray you

perfectly regular.

is

was forwarded

several others,

to the

town of Viu, where

produced the most favourable change in the public mind, so much

it

now

that the people along the route

tiling that

could be wished

should abstain from

In

for.

fact,

appearance

all

orders had been issued that the peasants

of

liostility,

and furnish the

travellers

with horses, mules, and waggons for the transport of the baggage,
wliich
tliey

were so promptly executed, that in the

had to

was

pass, every thing

always some

charged
his

liis

delinquent;

musket

at

so

in

much

in as

But

preceded by a government courier.

different villages

soldiers,

of

all

through which

readiness as if they had been

as in the best disciplined

the present instance a

one of the

so,

vied with one another in supplying every

army

there

is

peasant having dis-

missed him, and throwing away

arms attempted to escape, but was pursued and captured by his intended

victim.

In another instance, a soldier

taken to fhght with

arms

in

fired

hands.

his

upon and shot

Among

the

who had

a peasant,
flying,

one

of

the

Benedictine monks, called hermits of the Voirons,-|- was taken prisoner with a

dagger under his cassock, but whose influence contributed

As

quiet passage.

night came

on

they halted

much

near Viu, J

to

secure a

where, having

purchased refreshments of bread and wine, they set at liberty one of the

gentlemen hostages, who could

*

ruse,

resistance.

for

by magnifying

This fact

Hai,iie,) torn.

iii.

is

ill

support the fatigue of walking.

their force in the eyes of the people,

recorded by contemporary writers.

Here, after

they diminished the chance of

See " Nouveau Voyage

d'ltalie," (printed at

the

p. 72.

t Their convent was near the summit

of the Voirons, where, surrounded with woods, the remains are

" Ce
observes

still

seen.
Describing the place, Saussure
couvent ^tait habits par des B(?nedictins, qui
semblaient avoir ^te places la pour expier, par leur ennui et leurs souffrances, la vie trop sensuelle que Ton
reproche aux riches communautfe de cet ordre. Une Madone en vene'ration dans la pays sous le nomme de
:

Notre-Dame-des- Voirons, 6tait I'objet de leur culte et la cause de leur s^jour dans ce lieu
sauvage." This Madonna was afterwards transferred to a new shrine in the town of Annecy.
t Viu-la-Ville, another small town on the route, presents in the present day a very pleasing
its white houses are seen contrasted with the rich verdure which surrounds them.

si

froid et

effect,

si

when

SECOND day's march.

their halt

prolonging

until the inhabitants of Viii,

had been allowed

addi-essed,

taken up arms,

entered

they

the town

at

whom

to

withdraw,

to

dusk,

the

till

the letter was

in

they bad

case

and having partaken of

They had

an unclouded moon.

proceeded balf a league, however,

sky became

overcast,

scarcely

and they

the hostages address another letter to tbe bourg of St. Joyrc,

which they had to

crowds of

tlie

their march.

but welcomed by

not only without opposition,

place

inhabitants,

The

through

This done, they continued their march, and in half

pass.

an hour entered the

to

time

sufficient

refreshment, again set out under

made

19

who had

left

Waldenses on

their houses to see our

magistrates, at the same time, caused a hogshead of wine

be brought out into the

street,

and

left

at

the discretion of the soldiers.

some partook, but others abstained, from a suspicion that it might be

drugged with some poisonous ingredient. After crossing a few shehdng ridges,

Of

tliis

they came

about michiight to a

little

eminence,

named Carman, where they

halted; and, although the rain was falling, resolved to wait

order to recruit their strength by a

little

sleep after

till

daybreak, in

the hard day's march,

Marni,* which

they were

and be in better condition to

pass the bridge of

apprehensive had been cut

Here, takuig as hostages two brothers, named

off.

Georges, they set at liberty those

tenninated their

first

who had accompanied them

fi-om

Thus

Boege.

day's adventures.

Next day being Sunday, the seventeenth of August, they found the bridge
Marni in good repair, and crossing without opposition, entered a pleasant little
valley, but deserted by the peasantry, where they gathered some fruit by the
About ten o'clock in the forenoon they had arrived near Cluse,f a
way.
of

considerable walled town, situated

As soon

necessary to pass.

on the river Arve, through which

as they approached, the

it

was

armed inhabitants were

seen hning the trenches, while the peasants, in descending from the mountains

made it resound to the abuse with which they loaded the Waldenses.
The latter, nevertheless, in spite of the heavy rain which greatly incommoded them, advanced to within gunshot of the walls with a determination
above,

to cut themselves a passage, should the

of resistance.

M.

populace persist in their present show

de Fora, aware of this resolution, and hearing

it

whispered by

the soldiers that, in the event of contesting the point with the people,
*

Or Marigny,

a small village, but in a very picturesque situation on the Giffre,

it

would

now spanned by a

fine

stone bridge.

t Cluse

contains about two thousand inhabitants, and completely blocks up the pass; the mountains on

either side just opening sufficiently to allow

iKinks forms the town.

front,

four

The houses

supported by lofty

hundred

feet

pillars,

a channel

for the river,

and a

single street running along its

are in the ancient style of the country, with heavy wooden galleries in
It stands nearly
little traffic of the place is carried on.

under which the

above the lake of Geneva.

L L

THE WALDENSES.

130
be expedient
his

own

the

in

first

became alarmed

place to dispatch the hostages,

This being readily granted, he represented to them in his letter the

the town.

danger to which they were rashly exposing themselves, by denying a

whom

passage to people against

M.

this letter to

made

M.

de Lochen

aU

terms of capitulation.

persons of distinction

Of

fi'ee

the

all

Just as they were carrying

were

these gentlemen the

M.

de la

leaving the

two were

first

and at their request the third was sent back with an

detained,

in

de la Rochette de la Croix, the Chevalier des Rides,

Charbonniere and
to offer

not a complaint had been

had abeady passed.

places through which they

town

for

and begged permission to write to the principal inhabitants of

safety,

of the

officer

Waldenses, who, on being questioned on his entering the town as to their

authority for marching, sternly rephed that " it was on the point of their swords."
This was sufficient to convince his interrogators that the

affair

was serious;

and, therefore, witliout further hesitation, the passage, was thrown open, with

the simple

condition that they would pass straight through, and pay for such

These terms being

proNisions as were furnished to them.

the

ratified,

was resumed, and the inhabitants having ranged themselves on either

street, so as to

defiled

form an avenue from one gate

through the centre.

Amaud, however,

sentinels at the gate, took care to station

to ensure

the better
his

M.

to the

march

side of the

Waldenses

other, the

observing that there was no

one at that by which they entered,

good behaviour on the part of the inhabitants, while

ow^l troops were defiling in the

manner

While thus engaged,

described.

de la Rochette came up to imite some of the

officers

to

dine with hun,

but the latter having excused themselves, and drawn him insensibly out of
the town, then told him that they expected in half an hour, at latest, to be
fiu-nished with five measures of
this

he wrote immediately to his

of wine and as

much bread

wine and
father,

five quintals

of bread.

On

hearing

who, within the time stated, sent a tun

many partook; but

much delay, rolled the
great disappointment of some who would gladly
For the wine and bread thus furnished, Arnaud

as

was necessary.

Of

these

others observing that the good cheer occasioned too

cask into the river, to the

have quenched their

paid

five

thirst.

louis-d'or, with

which the inhabitants appeared quite

satisfied;

but

just as the refreshment ended, several children were observed running in the
direction of Sallenche, and, suspecting that

it

approaching, they were compelled to return.

motion,

De

la

Rochette and Des Rides wished

attending mass; but

pany could not

it

was

at present

signified to

was

what was

to give notice of

When

the

to retire,

army was

again in

under the pretext of

them that the pleasure of

their

com-

be dispensed with, and they reluctantly joined in the

SECOND day's march.

march.

At

Des Rides's

131

same time, some suspicion being excited on observing that

the

had

valet

also

mixed

De

were found vipon him, which

magistrates of Sallenclie.

in the troop,
la

he was searched, when

letters

Rochette, the father, had written to the

In these, the

were exhorted

to take

arms,

under the positive assm-ance that whilst they attacked the Waldenses in

front,

tlieir

would not

friends at Cluse

latter

them

to charge

fail

the

in

In

rear.

full

but firmly resolved to make a spirited

expectation, therefore, of an assault,

defence, the exiles continued to defile through a long narrow valley, bordered with

mountain precipices,* from which a few hands might have hurled fragments
of rock suflicient

as to

leave only a precarious footing,

along the brink.

castle of

About

for

it

could

soften,

his cure

to

enhance the

swollen by the rains

be

could not

came

called

road,

to the village

and

Maglan, where the peasants, though under arms, contented themselves

with remaining quiet spectators of the march.

To

much

the centre of this defile they

place, loaded the officers with civilities,

tiiey

But

have annihilated a whole army.

to

danger of the pass, the Arve was at this time so

make was

him

to desire

however, as

was directed

to continue their route

much
to

M. De Loche,

seigneur of the

but for which the only aclaiowledgment

to take his place

with the other hostages.

as possible the shock occasioned

accompany him.

The

without any apparent regularity,

form no correct estimate of their number.

by

this

order,

were now permitted

troops

so that spies

might

This was the more necessary, as

on the opposite bank of the river a horseman was observed proceeding at

full

speed on the way to Sallenche,f to announce, as they supposed, the arrival of

the Waldenses.
large
it.

liie

wooden

To

reach this town

it

was necessary

to gain possession of a

bridge, flanked with houses, and about ten minutes' walk

from

It was at this point that in the following year Lieut.-Colonel Mallet, at

head of a single battalion of Protestants, arrested

commanded a small army.

Having now advanced to within

M. de

St.

Ruth, who

a hundred paces of the bridge, and concluding

* The de61e here mentioned is thus accurately described by Saussure : " Souvent les rochers qui la
bordent sont tailMs a pic, a une grande hauteur, et surplombent meme quelquefois sur la route; le voyapeur
^tonn6 n'avance qu'avec une espece de crainte, et il doute s'il )ui sera possible de trouver une issue autravers de ces rochers.
L'Arve qui dans quelques endroits parait avoir de peine assez de place pour elle
seule, semble aussi vouloir lui disputer le chemin ; elle vient se jeter impe'tueusement centre lui, comme

pour I'empecher de remonter a sa source." But, continues the same author " Elle n'ofFre pas seulement
des tableaux flu genre terrible on en voit d'infiniment doux et agreables; des belles fontaines, des cascades,
des petits r^duits situe's au pied de quelque roc escarpe, ou, au bord de la riviere tapisses d'une belle
:

verdure, et ombrage's par de beaux arbres."

small market town of Savoy, well

travellers going

known

as

commanding a

from Geneva to Chamoimi usually spend the night.

is referred to " Switzerland Illustrated.'"

neighbourhood, the reader

view of Mont Blanc, and where

For a description of the town and

iine

1,32

THE WALDENSES.

tliat

the passage would be sharply contested, the officers distributed their

which was placed

into platoons, one of

amounted

as a

twenty persons of distinction, private gentlemen as well

to at least

for the

as ecclesiastics,) and,

purpose rather of intimidation than with any

intention of carrying the order into execution, were told to

death in case the Savoyards should

were forming and taking up

attended by six

privates,

put every

man

to

In the mean time, while the troops

fire.

their positions to attack the bridge, three captains,

to make the formal demand of a free

way they met six of the principal inha-

were sent

On

passage through the town.

their

on horseback, who, the instant they were seen, dismounted and took

bitants

to their heels

one,

men

guard over the hostages (who now

whom

but the former giving them ready chase, succeeded in capturing

they brought back with them, and the others, seeing their comrade

a prisoner, returned also, and came directly forward to the Waldenses.

names were
Chatellain,

De

Messrs.

De

CarniUon,

Cartan,

and the Sieurs de Bergerat and

now held M. Cartan

Amour.

St.

At

Their

Fontaine,

chief magistrate,

the conference

passage which they demanded, being

stated that the

question of too great importance to

be decided by themselves,

it

necessary to hold a council, in order to deliberate on the measure.

became

To

this

proposal the officers consented, allowing the magistrates half an hour to come

but accompanied with

to a decision,

tliis

threat that at the expiration of that

time they would certamly take the bridge by storm.

The

half hom: had elapsed

but just as they were about to put their threat in execution, the gentlemen
returned, saying that the time allowed

them

for so important a decision wiis

too short, and, perceiving that the officers were not in a

humour

to wait

till

they should receive an augmentation to their present strength, were on the

point of returning home.

and causing the Sieurs

invited

them

in

relished,

little

"Waldenses, however, were of a different mind,

Amour and

company with one of the

evident,

other hostages

into

the town, to

which they were placed.

might have carried the bridge without waiting

but as they were determined, in the true christian

human blood

as

This com-

they begged that one of them might be sent

to the inhabitants the danger in

is

Fontaine to dismount, most politely

their places vnth the rest of the hostages.

to take

pliment being

The
St.

much

spirit, to

The

represent

"Waldenses,

it

for all these parleys;

spare the effusion of

their own
when its employment might be indispensably necessary,
make a fresh attempt, by allowing the two hostages to act

as possible,

and to adopt the policy of reserving

strength for occasions

they were willing to

as proposed,

bad.

and on condition that they should bring back an answer, good or

But instead of an answer, the Waldenses heard the alarum

bell in full

TllUlD

133

DAY

peal, and, instead of tlio two envoys returning, saw six hundred armed men
Finding that they must now clear
taking up a position near the bridge.

themselves a passage at the point of the sword, the Waldenses were formed
two of which advanced to the assault. But at the

into several small divisions,

same instant four Capucliin

friars

were seen

charity encouraged the belief that such soldiers

and

to approach;

came

as

christiaix

in quest of peace, rather

than war, they were honourably received. Deputed as plenipotentiaries from

the town, they offered a free passage on condition that the hostages and their
should be released, on receiving in their place two of the principal
The proposal of thus surrendermg hostages of distinction, who,

horses

inhabitants.

from the mere dread of hazarding their own lives, caused all arms to be thrown
seemed at first rather prejudicial to the "Waldenses.

aside wherever they passed,

But

reflecting,

on the other hand, that two others were

exchange, and that

many more were

to

be received in

likely to fall into their hands, they agreed

On nearer scrutiny, however, it proved that the two

to accept the terms.
hostages brought from the town, and said to be syndics, were only two miserable
Indignant at the base deindividuals, of no note or consideration whatever.
ception thus practised upon him,

Arnaud stepped up

hastily to the Capuchins,

but they, guessing by his expression that he meant to have them seized, took
The
secured.
tlie hint, and scampered off so nimbly that only two were
others tucked

up

their cassocks,

their limbs to such

and used

The two who had been

that they escaped.

captured,

good pm-pose,

now demanded why they

were detained contrary to the law of nations, which holds sacred the personal
liberty of those
for

answer,

who

that

it

bear the articles of capitulation.

was

for

To

this they received

having, to the disgrace of their order and the

character to which they laid claim, deceived the Waldenses, and been guilty
of a shameless falsehood in wishing to foist the miller upon them as a syndic

Having thus answered

of the place.

and here
service

on

it

must be named

all

occasions.

their remonstrance, the astonished friars

in

company of the other hostages;

their credit,

that they proved of the greatest

and placed

were enrolled in the number,

to

Whenever

the question of a free passage was started,

and prayers were always effectual with

which more than ever astonished the Waldenses
at the influence and authority which these good fathers possessed over the

their remonstrances, their intercessions,

diose

who

disputed

it

fact

minds of those belonging to their own

religion.

The

reader,

however, will

judge for himself, wiiether the zeal they manifested in the cause arose fr'om
the personal alarm under which they were constantly sufl'ering, or emanated

from the purity of christian motives.

THE WALDENSES.

134

But

to return to the question of capitulation; the act

which we have just

recorded having rendered the terms null, a detachment was marched forward,

and passed the bridge without opposition, but which they had taken the
precaution to line with forty soldiers, the better to ensure the main body in
its

When

march.

were drawn up

the troops had safely reached the opposite bank, they

all

line

in

about

of battle,

twenty

to

fire,

but on the contrary

flames,

whom

dreading
sent

lest their

had been threatened

as

many wide

and

where

was agreed to pass the night, in order to

it

detours

roads,

civility

therefore,

arrived at a village

for

the hedges,

made no attempt

town should be given to the

through,

from which they were now suffering

latter

back with much

The Waldenses,

they had taken prisoners.

after

yards from

The

behind which the inhabitants were entrenched.

two

soldiers

passed quietly

named Cablau,

relieve the severe fatigue

beside the wretched state of the

they had been exposed to a heavy rain during the whole day, and

finding nothing to eat, nor drink, nor fire to dry their clothes, the repose for

which they had longed was very

for it

was doubtless

the]

But drenched

indifferent.

these poor wanderers had good reason to bless

God

as

that the rain

they were,

had

fallen;

very cause that had spared them a hot pursuit, which

they had fully expected during the whole day.

"With these particulars

we

conclude the report of the second

Although, in resuming their march the following morning, Monday, the nineteenth, the Waldenses were not interrupted

by any

hostile

measures or projects

from the people of Cluse, Maglan, or SaUenche, they were nevertheless much
disconcerted,

Aware of
a

not alarmed,

if

future route;

for

the

had

they

on hearing the danger and

this

difficulties

of their

day two most savage mountains to

cross.

danger they had to encounter, they took care to purchase

good supply of wine at a village through which they passed in the course

of the morning.

On

which they employed

mustered,

them

it

afresh.

preparing to

as

set

out they caused

more portable than drums,

was judged expedient

to

discharge

to

the two trumpets,

be sounded, and having

their

fire-arms

and load

This done, they began their march under a slight rain, and passed

through several small

villages, quite deserted, as far as a

bourg named Migeves,

where the inhabitants were in arms; but as they offered no

Passing
resistance the march continued without causmg any disturbance.
or Beaufort,

onward, they reached the height of the mountain, where, finding several deserted
cabins, they took advantage of these for a httle
rain.

Here

also

on both

sides

the cattle sent to pasture in

rest

were some of those

summer

are

and shelter from the

reduits, or pens,

where

housed, and the business of the

FOURTH day's MARCH.

dairy carried on.

But the milk and cheese

would not so much

as touch

l'3

left in the chalets, the

Their hostages, however,

began

Waldenses

suited for such an ex-

ill

to express their astonishment that troops,

ample of

practical abstinence,

who had

the power to take whatever they requii'ed, should continue to march

with so

much

self-denial

soldiers to take a supply

offence to

who

adding, that in point of victuals

wherever they could find

it

which the herdsmen had

left their

rules of strict discipline,

milk, bread, and cheese,

their

chalets,

added to the

all

conspired to infringe

and encouraged them

to help tnemselves to

actual hunger from which the troops were suffering,

upon the

men
own example, and

This encouragement, or rather reproach, on the part of

any one.

professed an interest in the property of the country, their

the abandonment

was usual among

without giving necessary

it,

to whatever eatables they could lay

and, in short,

hands on, but wliich they would have gladly paid

for

had there been any

of the owners fomid to receive the money.

Thus recruited

in strength

and

spirits,

they began the ascent of the second

mountain, named Haute Luce, the very aspect of which

fact at all times a

most formidable undertakingj

pleased

in persuading

difficulty

God

terrific.

It

is

in

moment,

the rains, covered with snow, and enveloped in so dense a

when deluged by

astonishment at the circumstance, the troops

fog, that the guide, expressing his

had no

is

especially so at this

him

that these were

to conceal his faithful servants

length, after excessive fatigue,

much more

the clouds by which

from the eyes of their enemies.

easily

it

At

imagined than described, they

reached the srmimit of the pass, where, finding an empty grange, they took

some milk and a few other

to

be made in the

trifles

vicinity,

in the

way of

food.

Then

ordering search

a few peasants were brought to rectify the mis-

take of the guide, who, believing himself in the clouds, had lost aU knowledge
of the pass.

It

was soon observed, however, that the new guides, not from
and, no doubt, to give the Savoyards time

ignorance, but a malicious design

led
and cut the throats of the Waldenses in these horrible defiles
them by the most circuitous and dangerous paths, till Arnaud, threatening to
to arrive

have them hanged, imless they acquitted themselves with

check to these treacherous manoeuvres. But,

of this diminished flock
those

who sought

knew

so well

to betray him,

the courage of his followers,

how

if

fideliu)',

put a salutary

the zealous and renowned leader*

to strike terror into the hearts of

he knew also how to exalt and rekindle

who now

felt as if

doomed

to sink

under their

necessary to remind the reader of what we have already stated in the preface; namelyytltat
Arnaud doea not here speak of himself; for, although the history of this expedition has been generally
ascribed to him, the w-riter was either the pastor Montoux, already mentioned, or the probationer
Reynaudin, who was afterwards pastor in the Valk-ys.
It

may be

THE WALDENSES.

136

At

accumulated hardships.

this

stage of their

every difficulty had

march,

been increased by the almost insupportable fatigue of forcing a passage cut

out of the solid rock, in ascending and descending, as

if

by a

ladder,

twenty persons might with ease have repulsed twenty thousand.

one knows

difficult, as everj^

to

climb a steep mountain,

it is, to

it is

If

often

where
be

it

more

so

descend it; and, in the present instance, the descent was only accomplished

downwards

as if

from a precipice, and with no better light to direct his

him by the whiteness of the snow.

course than was afforded

their arduous task
St. Nicholas

on his back, and thus

sitting posture, or

by each individual placing himself in a

sliding

was accomplished, and they arrived

In

late in

this

manner

the night

de Verose, a parish consisting only of a few shepherds' huts.

a place so dark and deep as to resemble an abyss, cold and desolate,

in

at

Here,
the

exhausted wanderers were compelled to halt for the night, but wthout being
able to find even sufficient

wood

Thus

to light a fire.

they had no choice but to unroof the huts for fuel

brought upon themselves another

for one evil,

painfully circumstanced,

and by thus seeking a remedy

for they

were thereby deprived

of shelter, and exposed to the injurious effects of the rain, which continued

throughout the night.

On

Thus ended

the third day's march.

the following morning, in consequence of their impatience to quit this

wretched

bivouac

before

daylight,

two very unpleasant accidents occurred.

The first happened to captain Meyer, a Waldensian, and good soldier, who was
wounded in both thighs by a musket shot, which had been accidentally discharged in the obscurity. The second evil arose from a report in circulation
hundred Savoyards had insinuated themselves into the ranks, and

that two

were only waiting a favourable

and place for commencing the attack.

time

Full of this apprehension, one of the soldiers mistaking the Sieur Bailiff

refugee

who had

expedition

for

relinquished

the butt end of his musket;

pray

which

proved

fatal

his

establishment

one of those imaginary

he
for

did,

spies,

Lausanne

at

and had not the captain implored

kneeling

down

the

the

for time to

would certainly have

mistake

the soldier had already stabbed

to join

him a heavy blow with

struck

him with the bayonet, but

It was here, also,

which, happily, penetrated no further than his waistcoat.

that

Chien,

captain of

heartened by the

one of

incessant

the

fatigue,

six

foreign

companies,

against which,

becoming

apparently,

his

dis-

delicate

constitution could not longer bear up, took occasion to desert, taking with

him a very

As

fine

horse from

among

six others left in the

same

the morning advanced, with the snow knee-deep,

an incessant

rain, the troops

place.

and marching under

began to climb one of the steepest ridges of a

M<

FOURTH DAYS MARCH.

*
In the previous year,
mountain, well knowi as the Col de Bonne-homnie.
occasioned by their former attempt,
for fear of the Waldenses, and on the alarm
wrell built, and entrenchments, with
as already mentioned, several small forts,
embrasures, had been constructed on this pass, besides ambuscades, in positions

so advantageous, that thurty persons

might have not only stopped

With

but entirely defeated them.

these recollections,

their progress,

therefore,

the troops

But thanlcs
advanced, in momentary expectation of a sanguinary engagement.
remnant of the faithful, so ordered
to the Eternal, who, ever present with this
it,

these elegant

that they foimd

finaUy

entrenchments quite empty, without even

wearied with so long keeping watch to no purpose, they had

a circumstance which the travellers gratefully
abandoned the post

a sentinel

for,

acknowledged on the

spot,

by

raising their united voices to

God

in thanksgiving.

After continuing the descent for a long time, and always in the snow, they came
of wine to refresh themselves
at last to a few houses, where they bought a cask
were too slow in coming
as they passed; but observing that those of the rear-guard
Finding, however, that they
up, tliey halted in a small village to wait for them.
did not make their appearance, they adopted the expedient of discharging a

few musket shots, which produced the desired effect; for those in the rear
concluding by this signal that the van was already engaged, abandoned the
wine, and came forward with

all

diligence to support their comrades.

Being now in the Valley, and following the banks of the Isere, it became often
necessary to cross that river, which, by its serpentine course, cuts through the
road at short distances. As this defile (in a valley extremely narrow, and now
almost entirely inundated by the river which had overflowed its banks) appeared
dangerous, and particularly so as they here expected to meet with resistance, they
marched for some time in single file, that is, two and two. This apprehension

was

far

from groundless

for they soon descried

on the top of a

a multitude of peasantry, who, either with their muskets, or

by

rising

ground

stones, of

which

they had abundance at hand, might have rendered the passage extremely difficult
in a place so hemmed in; and, sooth to say, fully resolved as they were to

Waldenses expected

force their way, the

They were very

to

have paid dearly for the passage.

agreeably surprised, however, when, contrary to

all

hope, these

The most elevated pass over the mountain of that name west of Mont Blanc, ten or eleven leagues from
Chamouni, and between eight and nine from Sallenche. It derives its name fiom the philanthropic individual who first built a temporary refuge in this frightful desert for the protection of human life. It is the
scene of numerous disasters and among the more recent, is that to which two English gentlemen, of great
;

virtues and accomplishments, fell untimely victims.

It

is

only those wlio have visited

tliis

pass that can rislitly

The col
estimate the difficulties and dangers to which the Waldenses were here exposed.
"
"
a lipii-'ht of " 530 feet above the sea. See also Bkockedon's Passes" and Ex;:ursions."

N N

is

computed

at

THE WALDENSES.

much

people did not so

as even

assume a

their presence did not intimidate our

hostile attitude

way

speed to their village, where, thinking that the better

new

their

guests,

observing that

for,

band of champions, they

retired with aU

to strike terror into

to spread the general alarm, they sounded the tocsin,

was

and

the next minute nothing was heard but a horrible jangling of bells from every
This, however, did not prevent their reacliing the bridge

steeple in the valley.

they were in search

crossed with

of,

but which, on close inspection, they found entu-ely

huge beams, barricaded with

and guarded by armed peasants

some

trees interlaced

upon one another,

carrying muskets, some scythes, pitch-

But no sooner had the

Comte de Val Isere,
seigneui- of the Valley and "gentleman of the chamber" to her royal highness
Madame, came to parley, or rather to concede the passage, while the peasants
took again upon themselves the trouble of clearing the bridge a task to which
even Monsieur le Cure also lent his hand. This accomplished, and fearing lest
they should be burnt, as had been threatened, they withdrew into their village,
forks,

and other implements of a similar

Waldenses made arrangements

for

description.

the attack, than the

distant about a
le

Comte,

after

musket

shot,

on the opposite side of the

As

river.

for

Monsieur

having acquitted himself of his embassy, he set off at fuU gallop,

so great

was

as they

saw any person of distinction within reach, usually addressed Arnaud

his fear of being associated with the other hostages,

with " There's

a fine bird for our cage

!"

And

third at liberty on account of his advanced age,

in this

two

who, as soon

cage, after setting a

were put

priests

to sing.

After having passed tlirough the small town of Sey without causing any
order

although

inhabitants

to

it

had been very clamorous with

arms,

and although the

the seigneur, above-named, was shut

hard by.

Here they purchased

up

its

travellers

bells,

dis-

had summoned the

were perfectly aware that

in the chateau

they pitched their camp

much

provisions as they wished,

fi-om the

town

as

with bread at two sous a pound, except Arnaud, who, of his own accord, paid at
the rate of three sous

and in such abundance was

of the inhabitants came to purchase

it

back from the

it

furnished, that several

soldiers.

Thus, then, in

camp near Sey, the Waldenses rested from their fourth day's march.
On Wednesday the twenty-first, the march began before day-break, but

their

the villages through which they passed in the Val-Isere were deserted.
theless,

they found one

man who kept

his ground,

all

Never-

and being shut up in

his

The time having

now arrived for a short halt, they rested near a small bourg named St. Foi,
which had not been deserted like the others, so that for money they had bread,
house, sold bread to the soldiers from the top of the gallery.

wine, and meat, without the least disturbance

for

the officers had provided

DAY

riFTII

MARCH.

139

against such an occurrence by plantini^ trusty sentinels

all

They were

round.

not only pleased, but surprised, with their flattering reception in this place
for

many gentlemen, attended by numbers

them very

the Waldenses, and accosting

they

felt

them

in seeing

of the inhabitants, came out to meet

expressed the pleasure which

civilly,

extolled their resolution in trying to recover their

native country, and, in short, intreated that they would spend the night with

them, for which they would make ample provision by kiOing fresh meat, baking
bread, and distributing wine to the troops.

All these fine promises were so

engaging as insensibly to stop the progress of the troops, who, to their ruin,

might have suffered themselves

to

be persuaded, had not Arnaud, who was then

and come forward

in the rear-guard, observed their hesitation,

The

oflicers

men

of the place, he paid no attention to

having recapitulated the friendly

it

offers
;

made

to

to learn the cause.

them by the

gentle-

maxim

always

but, holding for a

when coming from an enemy, he caused

to distrust civiHties

the troops to

proceed on their march, and these plausible flatterers to join them; for there
could be no doubt

that,

in

the midst of

a valley very closely

hemmed

in betv/een

easy to guard

passage

it

for,

for the

Waldenses

interruption, however, and arrived at Villar-Rougy,

emerging from

this frightful gorge, they

who were making

place in their route was Eutigne, a village situated in a

now

their escape.

and gave them chase; but one of the

behind, was wounded.

The next
encircled

by

soldiers, a

detachment was ordered out,

Frenchman, who had remained

In the evening they encamped near a

Laval, and passed the night in a

fetch such provisions as they

meadow, keeping up a

were in need

of,

large

village,

fire,

and here,

named

and going to

fi'om the deserted houses.

chief person in the village entertained the officers

The

for the fu'st time,

been eight days and nights almost without drinking, eating, or

Arnaud, and Montoux,

after supper,

little plain,

quite deserted, the inhabitants having escaped to the heights,

where they showed themselves under arms.

after ha^ing

steps.

where the

saw a great many peasants, who,

abandoning their houses, retreated to the other side of the river.

mountains, but

over

have forced a

to

on the contrary, they would have been compelled to retrace their

van-guard captured a priest, and some peasants,

sleeping,

tliickly

was intersected by passages very

by removing the beams from over the river by which it
defile

would have been impossible

They met with no

On

promised, the

things

Quitting St. Foi, they next entered

two mountains, and covered

This

with forest trees of lofty growth.

was watered,

the fine

all

destruction of their guests was meditated.

his colleague,

enjoyed three hours' repose

Never

in the whole course of their

with the luxury of a bed.

experience were refreshment and rest more acceptable.

THE

110

On

V.

ALDENSES.

the following morning, Thursday, the twenty-second, being the sixth day of

their march, they passed through the

bourg of Tigne, where they caused the money

which had been taken from the two men, as formerly mentioned, to be restored.

The

inhabitants, indeed, were right glad to be let off so easily ; for they were very

But

apprehensive of being punished in another way.

as

some of the hostages

were here permitted to return home, and others made their escape
doubt by some of the guards

whom

they had bribed

the

favoured no
took the pre-

officers

With this new

arrangement they began to ascend the mountain of Maurienne, Mount Tisseran
IMount
chat is,
Iseran which gives name to the river Isere. Here, a young man,
caution to supply the deficiency by two priests and an avocat.

whom

they pressed

mto

the service, broke the

musket given him

to carry against

a rock, and escaped along the bank and channel of a torrent, where he was thrice
fired

upon, the third shot from a pistol taking

effect

and wounding him.

After

having thus proceeded for some time, the troops were brought to a halt in order
to separate the companies,

and appoint additional

This arrangement

officers.

now entered upon a very difficult road, in the midst of

with much cattle and where the shepherds, who had not fled,

being completed, they

alpine pasturage,

regaled the soldiers with the produce of their dairy, informing them at the same
time, that they

country,

for

would have great

that,

they

if

difficulty in obtaining

had not hitherto

would now be disputed by a large body of

for

them

at the foot of

Mont

been

soldiers,

an entrance into their

opposed,

who were

passage

their

resolutely waiting

Cenis.

This was news which, instead of alarming our exiles, tended only to inflame their
hearts; for,

knowing that the

whose glory they were

a passage wherever
inspiring

result of their

arms must depend on

to fight, they felt assured that

man had endeavoured

to shut

it

God

He would

alone, for

open

against them.

for

them

Full of this

hope, they boldly descended the said mountain of Maurienne,

and

Bonne

Val.-

crossing the territory of that name, arrived in the small village of

Here the cure was

although a peasant

obligingly officious in pressing the officers to drink

who

was complied with.

and,

refused to act as guide was well punished, every

Continuing the route, they marched straight

a bourg so called, where

according

to a prejudice they

existed the most mischievous rabble under heaven.

In

demand
upon Besas,

had imbibed

fact,

when

there

they arrived,

they found that the people, far from wishing to escape, manifested the greatest
arrogance, proceeding even to threats, and thereby compelling the Waldenses
to

punish their insolence by taking away some of their mules, seizing the
the castellan,

and

were bound together.

On

persons- of the cure,

mortification,

six peasants,

who, to increase their

quitting this town, they crossed the

SEVENTH DAYS MARCH.

and bivouacked near a

river

little

141

deserted hamlet, where they lay exposed to

Here ended the sixth day's journey.

march the following morning Friday, the twenty-third they
passed through Laime-Villard, where they took as hostages the cure, and some
but, when they began to ascend Mont Cenis, finding the priest
peasants

rain during the whole night.

Resuming

their

too old and heavy to climb so high, they sent

When

him back.

they had

reached the summit of the pass, and recollected that not far from thence there
was an office belonging to the general post, they concluded that intelligence of

would thus be forwarded

their arrival

against so fatal an occurrence, a few

As they were

horses they could find.

sent forward,

returning with their booty

only seized in order to guarantee the general safety

they

fell

which

they laid hands upon them, and on examining the

consisted of baggage belonging to Cardinal Angelo Ranuzzi, who,

occa-

found that

fi:eight,

been residing as Pope's nuncio,

was

in with several

Tempted by the favourable

laden mules, proceeding along the road.

sion,

To guard, therefore,
who seized all the

in all directions.

men were

on

it

his return

had dispatched

from France, where he had

baggage by Mont Cenis, while he himself took another road to Rome in order
to be present at the conclave, then assembled, by which Alexander VIII.

was raised
ever

latter,

begged the

it,

who

did not intend

In

should be restored.

more

friends.

expedition

If,

declare

it

them wrong, gave

this they. acted

readily on those

they gave out that

cular

who had

with so

possession of the plunder to restore

any thing was really

therefore,

save

that,

the directors of this

lost,

the loss of a watch of singular invention, on

till

it

was too

it

and that even of

late to restore it to the

muleteers.

declare also, in the face of the whole world, that they have never seen

any of the papers belonging to the said

reached him at Fano
took

sincerity, that, to

belonged to certain merchants of Geneva, their parti-

they were uninformed

They

The

orders that every

strict

much

the model of that of Strasburg, they had no knowledge of

this

complain of

and never permitting a vwong to be committed

strict discipline,

against any one

prevail the

to

officers to enforce restitution of the property.

scrupulous in hazarding the reputation which they enjoyed of

keeping up a

tiling

The muleteers having come

papal throne.

to the

this outrage,

his

it

letters

for granted that all

would be

lost, or,

he then was, and of which he had been bishop

the memoirs of his nunciature, all the minutes of his

what was worse,

fall

into the hands of people

not hesitate to take advantage of their contents.

heart, that

it

who, when the inteUigence

cardinal,

where

may be

said to

have cost him. his

He
life,

took

it,

who would
much to

in fact, so

by destroying his hopes of

reaching the pontificate, a dignity for which in truth he was better qualified than
o o

THE WALDENSES.

142

any other,
iiir

as

much on account
and

interests of princes,

nevertheless, that

death, has done

little

much

of his shining qualities, united with the imposing

on that of his intimate knowledge of the

as

of a great prelate,

his long familiarity with court

baseness of

maxims.

mind which betrayed

to tarnish the glory of his eminence.

true,

even at his

itself,

In

political

It is

fact, if all

France

was astonished 'at the spectacle he exhibited in shedding tears, when he was
closely watched, on the subject of disputes which had arisen between his most
Christian

Majesty and Pope Innocent XI. we cannot be surprised

weakness, when, even on his death-bed,

'

O,

mie carte

le

Much

O,

le

mie

carte

!"

it

O,

papers

my papers

has been published on the loss of these " lamented papers

other things,

it

at his

he repeatedly ejaculated,

said,

is

my

and among

;"

has been said that the duke of Savoy, having purchased them

from the Waldenses, had forwarded them to the French court, which thereby

Ranuzzi and

discovering an intrigue between Cardinal

the prisons of Vincennes.

give themselves

little

several ecclesiastics at

had ten of them committed

Soissons, Beauvais, Abbeville, and other places,

But, however the truth

may

be, the

uneasiness respecting the fate of these papers

readily foresee that all that has been said or invented of

had one malicious aim

to

Waldenses need
but, as they

them may well have

in view, namely, to blacken their conduct in the affair,

they again repeat that they never once saw nor handled them, and therefore could

not have sold them, as stated publicly.

As

for the watch,

have come latterly into the hands of the pastor Montoux,

which was said to

it

was taken from

him \vith all his baggage by the soldiers of his Royal Highness, when he was
made prisoner, as we shall hereafter have occasion to state.
After restitution of the property here mentioned, the sufferings endured by
the Waldenses in their passage of the great and
imagination.

little

Having arrived with incredible pain

Mont

Cenis, surpass all

at the latter, they

found in

the chalets, or cattle-sheds, several peasants armed with halberts and iron-pointed
staves,

but who immediately took to their heels.

of whom had received a

a

little

wound on

the head.

On

bread and wine, with which they made

unfortunately lost their way.

Two, however, were taken, one

looking round, the troops found

and passing onward, most

free,

This they attributed to a malicious design on the

part of the guide, or to the dense fog which had

come

with which the whole scene was enveloped a

full foot

had

to descend the

on, added to the fresh snow,

deep.

As

it

was, they

mountain of Tourliers, in a way that much more resembled

a precipice than a path.

many, no longer able

To crown

their misery, night having set in

to support the fatigue

upon them,

and exhaustion by which they

were overcome, remained behind, detached from the

mam

body, and separated

EIGHTH DAYS MARCH.

14yJ

from each other among the woods, where they spent a miserable niglit. The
main body, in the mean time, having made good their descent into the Valley
of the Jaillon, there fomid some dry wood, their only comfort, and making
fire, warmed and dried themselves in this wet and half famished condition.

On

the following morning, the twenty-fourth day of the month, and eighth

of their march, they had the happiness to rejoin their companions at break of
day, after which

With

was resolved

it

this intention,

to take the direction of

Chaumont, above Susa.

having dispatched some soldiers to reconnoitre, they learned

that a great nmnber of peasants had assembled on the mountain, supported by

from the garrison of Exilles, who were incessantly employed

French

soldiers

hurling

down fragments of

very confined, and the course of the river Jaillon very rapid,
this

was a place where destruction was unavoidable.

reinforced the van-guard with one hundred

to advance

within

having

paces of the enemy, sent forward, as they had hitherto done, a

was given

Captam Paul

to

To

escort of soldiers.

Tliis

commission, in the present

Pellene, of the Villar company, with an

these were added two cures from the

hostages, thinking that they might facilitate negotiations.

they escaped

number of the

But, instead of

this,

and, at their instigation also, the captain was arrested, bound, and

fastened by ropes, as well as his soldiers

the strength of

Samson

Hereupon discharging

one only excepted, who,

hawng found

in his locks, by which they had seized him, escaped.

their

musquetry and grenades, and throwing and

rolling

enemy compelled

the vanguard

back so as to shelter themselves behind the rocks, and at

last to defile

stones from the top of this advantageous post, the

through a chestnut forest on the

some passed by wading

on the trunk of a
It

was evident that

men, they hesitated not an instant

herald to open a treaty for a free passage.

to fall

it

Nevertheless,

with indomitable courage; and, as soon as they found themselves

fifty

instance,

in

rock, so that the passage of the valley being naturally

right, covering the

across with all their clothes

tree in the midst of briers,

but

banks of the

river,

which

and accoutrements, and others

all

with very great difiiculty

was here that the Sieur Caffarel of Bobi was made prisoner by the dragoons,

after receiving

a woimd on the stomach from a blow, which one of his own

him for one of the enemy, had aimed at him and, indeed,
more likely, as he was at present in the vmiform of a soldier
whom he had killed. Those who had passed the Jaillon, seeing that they were
people, mistaking

the mistake was the

not pursued, retraced their steps, and having effected a junction with their
comrades, thought

it

most admable

to try to regain possession of the heights;

as they clearly foresaw, that, unless they did so, they

must run imminent

risk

of being cooped up in a deep gorge, completely surrounded by inaccessible rocks.

THE WALDENSES.

'I4-1'

In order to regain the heights,

employing

it

was necessary

the hands as

often on all-fours

to climb, or rather to scramble,

much

as the feet

with

incredible

of which one cannot better judge than by reflecting on the despair

difficulty,

of the hostages, who, being horror-struck at marching in this manner, begged

that they might suffer instant death rather than be compelled to endure such

But

unspeakable terror and fatigue.

point,

at length, the

if,

was only in a confusion which

it

cost

Waldenses gained

them very dear

many

for

their

of their

people remained behind dispersed in the woods, and amongst others, were captains

Lucas and Privat, of the foreign companies, of

To

been heard.

whom

nothing has ever since

the loss of these officers they had also to add that of two able

surgeons, one of whom, named John Malanet, having with several others

remained concealed in the hollow of a rock, there continued duiing four days
without any other sustenance than water, wliich he had to fetch in the nighttime from a place about a hundred paces off

and conducted, along with

hand and

his

At

length he was taken prisoner,

companions in misery, to Susa, and thence bound

foot, to the prisons of the

Senate of Turin, where they

within this territory were thrown into the prisons of Savoy

those

who were

all

and, on the contrary,

unfortunately arrested within the French territory, were con-

ducted to Grenoble, and thence to the galleys, where those, on

has not yet had pity, remain to this day, although

Among

have been tendered.

whom

these innocent and unfortunate men,

the

Muston of St. John, Val-Luzern

and who, by his mishaken constancy and

martyrdom, deserves to have a share in

death

exchange or ransom

offers of

included the Sieur

named

remained,

Those who were taken prisoners

shut up in the dimgeons, for nine months.

is

to

be

other surgeon above-

fortitude diuing so long a

this history.

This defeat, which weakened their small band, and cost them much property,

and many brave men,

Waldenses

had

for they

this

did not, however,

his marvellous designs.

damp

comfortmg conviction on

neither by strength, nor ability, nor the

Cheered up by

this reflection,

the

courage of

the

their minds, that it is

number of men,

that

God

executes

and resolving to reascend

the mountain of Touliers, they continued sounding the trumpet for a very long
time, in order to give

they were.

many

But

theii-

bewildered companions a signal of the place where

after halting

of their people were

two

still

full

hours,

missing, they

it

was concluded

must proceed,

should be again drawn together to dispute the passage.

that,

although

lest fresh

Thus

troops

resolved, they

began their march with so much precipitation, that poor. Meinier from Rodoret,

who had been wounded by one

asleep

upon a

rock,

of his

own

people, and from exliaustion fallen

was abandoned with only the consolation of some

victuals

EIGHTH DAY

MARCH.

145

Availing themselves of present circumstances, two hostages

left

near him.

also

found means to escape

them

one of which took

When

was retaken.

and, although several muskets were fired after

effect

and wounded or

killed a priest

neither of them

had gained the summit of the Touliers, they

they

observed, notwithstanding a thick fog which prevailed at the time, about two

hundred armed men, marching to the beat of drum, and forming two or three
At sight of these, the Waldenses made an intrepid advance, when
divisions.
they received

a,

letter

from the commandant, by which they were given to under-

mean

stand that he did not

their road a little higher,

them

in this case to give

to

position,

his

force

march

to obstruct their

provided they would take

where the passage was free and

openand

even offered

But if, on the contrary, they were resolved

he demanded eight hours for deliberation on what
provisions.

should be done.

Although the Waldenses were

it

fully

aware that they ought not

who was commandant

faith in this officer,

more expedient

of the fort of Exilles,

where

to accept a passage

it

to

Very

they judged

was open, and offered

than to incur the hazard of forcing one which was well guarded
continued their march towards the right.

put too much

still

to

them,

and therefore

shortly afterwards, however, they

perceived that they were softly followed, through favour of night, by the very
troops of the station which they

the Waldenses that

it

had just left. This manoeuvre

was a plot

to

sufficiently apprised

engage them between two

fires, as

soon as

they should express any intention of forcing the bridge over the Dora at SalaberThis,

trann.

must be owned, would have been an

it

infallible

method

to exter-

minate a handful of men, already harassed and dejected by incessant hardship

and

fatigue.

On

this suspicion, a

message was sent

acted so contrary to their parole?

To which

intention whatever of violating their

word

to

demand, why these troops

they replied, that they had no

and then showed signs of

retiring,

which the Waldenses thinking they did in good earnest, continued their march

by long

cross-roads

and woods, keeping always in very

from time to time.

As

they were

now approaching

from Salabertrann, they inquired of a peasant

provisions for

money?

To

this

all

The

last

words, pronounced with as

fail to

desire,

if

they could there have any

he replied very coolly

you

you

and halting

" Go

on; they will

and are now preparing a warm supper

give

that

close order,

a village about a league

much

for you."

frankness as indifference, did not

convey a hint that they contained some mysterious danger that threatened

the Waldenses.

The

latter, nevertheless,

the peasants of the said village to fetch

after a

without being disconcerted, ordered

tliem wine,

which they did; and

few moments' relaxation, the march was resumed.

Being now within

THE WALDENSES.

146
half a league of

as thirty-six camp-fires,

A quarter

stationed.

many

bridge, tliey descried in the depth of the valley as

tlie

which proved to demonstration that troops were there

of an hour thereafter, the vanguard

ambus-

into an

fell

cade, but which, contented with one volley, hastily retired, leaving five dead.

Taking

up

now

it

for certain that they

must come

to blows, prayer

was offered

and, having sent right and left to discover whether there were any more

ambuscades, marched close up to the bridge.

on the opposite side, called out, " Qui vive

The enemy, who were intrenched

To which the Waldenses very

?"

sincerely answered, " Friends, provided they are suffered to pass on."

former, wishing no friends on these conditions, began to call aloud

!"

them

kill

and

action to the word,

suiting the

But the

" Kill them

poured in a volley of

musketry, which continued a fuU quarter of an hour, and employed two

But, as Arnaud at the very commencement

thousand bullets at each discharge.

had given the word

for all to lie flat

on their

grown grey

in arms, confessed that he

But what was

little effect.

Captain

man was wounded

one

faces, only

whereupon, one of the hostages, a gentleman of Savoy, who had

in the neck

Mondon

still

had never seen so

more remarkable was,

terrible a fire take so

that

of Bobi, a valiant and generous officer

Arnaud

still

himself,

living at the

time this account was written with two of the exiles, not only confronted,

but even repulsed on the spot, two companies which were about to charge the

Waldenses in the

Finding themselves now exposed between two

rear.

the latter saw the necessity of risking

their

In this resolution, some began to shout

This was not the fact
that,

all

" Courage!

the bridge

throwing themselves with desperation upon

they

it

some

with drawn sabres,

first

charge,

so closely, as to set fire to their doublets with the shot,

the hair.

gained!"

stormed the post, and rushing headlong,

attacked and carried the entrenchments at the

them by

is

but the words so animated the hearts of the soldiers,

others with fixed bayonets

enemy

fires,

without losing a moment.

Never was

tliere

known

and pursued the

and even

to seize

a charge so overpowering.

The

Waldensian sabre shivered in pieces the swords of the French, and caused terror
by the fire which it struck from their musket-barrels, of which the enemy could

now make no

use, unless to

ward

oflT

the blows of the victors.

In a word, the victory was so brilUant and complete, that the marquess de
Larrey, who had the command, and was dangerously wounded in the hand,
exclaimed with the usual French oath, " Est-il possible que je perde le combat

Is
et mon honneur ;"
And then, seeing that

qui peut

!"

it

possible that I thus lose the battle

the fate of the day was irretrievable,

and

my

honour

added" Sauve

After which, retreating with several of his wounded

officers,

he was

EIGHTH DAY
carried to Brian9on

the road for

the

Embrun

enemy were

MARCH.

147

but thinking himself not out of danger even there, he took

in a litter.

The

had lasted nearly two hours, when

conflict

so completely routed, that

many

of them, becoming mixed with

the Waldenses, and thinking thus to escape, were put to the sword.

whenever the

victors,

who had

for their

watchword,

'

Angrogne,"

Besides,

called out

" Qui

vive?" those of the enemy, wishing to counterfeit the word, answered simply

" Grogne
men.

!"

so that this

In short, the

word alone

field

more than two hundred

cost their lives to

of battle was covered with slain.

Several of the

enemy's companies were reduced to seven or eight men, and these without an
All the baggage, generally, and

officer.

hands of the victors

and when the

the military stores,

all

moon

into the

fell

not an enemy was to be

rose,

seen.
Arnaud, who still passed as Monsieur de la Tour, now called all his little
band around him, and having caused thirteen military chests which they found
to

be broken open, and such of the booty as they could not carry

into the

river,

he ordered every one

cartridge as he required; after which he

which caused such a

made them

At

when every man throwing

much

might easily

the same time he ordered the trumpets to sound

made

his hat into the air,

resound with

it

exclamation, " Thanks be rendered to the Eternal of armies,

us the victory over aU our enemies

" Graces

!"

handful of people vanquish two thousand

joyous

this

who hath given

soient rendues a I'Eternel des

armees, qui nous a donne la victoire sur tous nos ennemis

!"

What

who could be brought

together

all

appears so incredible, that, to gain implicit belief,

it

should

it

since,

by

The thing

ought to have been seen

must be conceived that the hand of God not only fought with the

Waldenses, but even blinded their enemies. For, had the

seem possible that the French,

art of war,

the

all

these, too, exclusive of the troops

already mentioned as hanging upon the rear of the Waldenses

or, rather, it

mere

hundred men, well entrenched

five

including fifteen companies of regular troops, eleven of militia, with

peasants

ball-

what remained,

set fire to

terrible explosion in the mountains, that it

be heard at Brian9on.*

be thrown

to

supply himself with as

to

would have neglected

so doing, they

fact

so clear-sighted

been otherwise,

and so

how

skilful in the

which was only of wood

would have cut short the progress of the Waldenses

Besides, the river was swollen so

to destroy the bridge,

much

at the time, that

any attempt

to ford it

in that state must have been attended with destruction.

If

we ought

be no

thus justly to be surprised at so glorious a victory,

less so at the small loss

to only ten or twelve

we ought

to

on the part of the Waldenses, which amounted

wounded, and fourteen or

fifteen killed,

one half of

Brian9on, distant from Salabertrann a1)out eight or ten hours' walk.

whom

THE WALDENSES.

148
fell

by the

list

of killed

fire
;

of their

own

Of

rear-guard.

the hostages, one cure was in the

but of thirty-nine, the previous amount of their number,

la

all

M. de
monk

escaped during the conflict except six, namely, the Chevalier des Rides,

Charbonnierej the two Capuchins taken at Sallenche, a priest, and the

of the Voirons.

Although, after an action such as

sity for repose

seeing

tliat for

intermission, almost without eating,

hensive lest the

enemy should

this,

the victors felt

more than ever the neces-

three days they had continued to march without

and drinking only water

collect reinforcements, it

still,

being appre-

was thought advisable

to

get over the ground, and employ the remainder of this glorious night, aided
by a favourable moon, in climbing the mountain of Sci, in the direction of

This was effected with great

Pragelas.

difficulty

drowsiness and fatigue, were constantly dropping

for the people,

down

overcome with

at every corner of the field

and no doubt many more would have been lost than really were, had not tlie rearguard taken special care to rouse and drive before them all those whom they
found asleep or lying on the ground. Thus ended this ever -memorable day.

The

following morning, being

Sunday the

twenty-fifth,

and ninth of

their march,

they found themselves at day-break on the top of the said mountain of Sci now
where they halted for those who had not yet come up. As soon as
called Saou

they arrived,

the whole remaining force, and having directed

Arnaud assembled

their attention to the fact, that

their native

mountains,

surmounted, as

if

from

this point

they could descry the tops of

he exhorted them to bless God,

by miracle,

so

many and great

that,

He

difficulties,

after

having

already permitted

to behold something of the country for which they longed so much!

This he made the subject of a prayer, delivered on the spot, which greatly
Having offered up this their
revived and strengthened every desponding heart.

them

morning thanksgiving
and,

of

La

God, they descended

to

passing the

after

river

Clusone,

halted

into the Valley

opposite

Traverse, where, in spite of a refusal from those

united with them in the bonds of the

same

religion,

compelled to fuinish them with provisions for money.

the

happiness

to

ascertain

that,

in the

previous

the

of Pragelas;

village

church

who had once been

the inhabitants

Here,

action, they

also,

were

they had

had only

lost

own number, whilst the enemy had left on the field twelve
with many other oflilcers, and about six hundred rank and file. It

fourteen of their
captains,

was here confirmed,

Embrun

also,

that Larrey had been carried in a litter as far as

but, with this, they

six of their

the foot of

had

also the mortifying intelligence that thirty-

own men, who had been taken near Jaillon, and eighty
Mount Sci, had been marched in chains to Grenoble.

others at

TENTH DAYS MARCH.

149

Altliough to-day was Sunday, no mass was celebrated in

Pragelas

much more

of their personal safety than of

had betaken themselves

to flight, as

well as the

their duty,

placing himself at

Waldensian

its

soldiers

CathoUcs of

head, captured, as the grand achievement of the day, four

who had

lost their

way

in the woods,

favourable treatment from him, counselled

he had a mind

him not

who, thinking to secure

to advance farther, unless

Taking alarm at these words, and in hopes

be cut in pieces.

to

him from the danger

that the four soldiers could protect

he promised them that no mischief should happen

was he out of danger, than he marched

to

Roman

These the son of the Castellan had formed into a company; and

the place.

fallen,

the valley of

all

for the priests, thinking

off these

poor

into

which he bad

to them. But,

men

no sooner

to Grenoble, there

be included among the other prisoners.

About three

o'clock in the afternoon, whilst they

for the Valley of St. Martin,

some dragoons,

observed approaching along the Valley

Waldenses

Thus

far

steadily advancing to

were prepaiing

to start

in the direction of Cestrieres, were

but the instant that they espied the

meet them, they wheeled about and

retreated.

unmolested, the Waldenses passed the night in the hamlet of Jussaiid,

the highest on the Col-du-Pis, where they had to pay very dear for provisions

and these so inadequate to their

necessities, that

they were obliged to upbraid

the inhabitants for their inhimianity, so different to what should have resulted

from the ancient bond of union between them.*

themgelves by saying, that were
smallest matter,

was some truth

priest,

it

would bring

came

But the people excused

them in the

that they had assisted

inevitable ruin

for it soon after

known

it

upon

their heads.

to the ears of the

In

this there

Waldenses that the

having come into the church to fetch away the coimnunion service, said

to the peasants, that if they did not take all the

Waldenses

whom

lay their hands on, they deserved to be burnt in their houses.

they could

Here close the

adventiu:es of the ninth day.

On

the following day,

on account of the rain

discovered below

Monday

the twenty-sixth,

Champ Bouchar,

at the foot of the pass,

Highness's troops regularly drawn out.

which Arnaud

prayers

they set out rather late

and, having reached the bottom of the Col-du-Pis,

ments, which marched in columns,

The Savoyards,

the two
seeing

detachments hastened forwai-d, dispatched an

* Tliese

first

formed

and

thi-ee

along the slopes,

up

then,

detach-

the third

the resolution with which these

officer to signify their

were formerly members of the Waldensian communion.

Q Q

Royal

his

to offer

pronounced aloud with profound devotion

in order to gain possession of the col above mentioned,

along the valley.

some of

Hereupon they halted

wish to come

THE WALDENSES.

150

But, observing that

to a parley.

would not

tliey

listen to liim, the officer

The Wal-

sufBciently strong in their position to have disputed the entrance.

denses would willingly have given them chase

so

by a thick

down

fog,

they only fired

but as they were prevented doing

tliree shots after

They then descended

man.

its

them, each of wliich brought

to the alp,

or

pasture-lands, of the

Col-du-Pis, when, halting near one of the chalets below Seras,

herdsmen make

saw eight of

their cheese, they

who was

arrive, besides another

took

thek baggage behind them, although

to ilight with his entire force, leaving all

his

Making

already inside.

where the

Royal Highness's guards

all

haste to the spot,

they captured six out of the number, who, after being examined and exhorted

commend

to

themselves to

God

that they asked in Piedinontese

From

this place the

however, they so

(which,

how

Waldenses carried

was

it

understood,

little

be done) were put to death.*

to

off the shepherds,

and about sis hundred

sheep, but of which the greater portion was afterwards restored for a consi-

After these transactions, they resumed their march so

deration in money.

very

they were overtaken by night, and a heavy

late, that

fall

of rain, so that

they were obliged to descend by torch-light one of the worst roads imaginable

came

tiU they

to

an unroofed cattle-shed, situated above the Col-Damian, near

which they spent the night

small

not

in repose, but in di-ying their clothes at

which they succeeded in kindling.

fires,

Thus concluded

the

tenth

day's enterprise.

Next

day, Tuesday the twenty-seventh, they reached the BalsUle, the nearest

Here they were surprised

village in the Val-St.-Martin.

their

that

comrades had deserted and what

;

was

it

which

it

that as

eflfected at

had

it

cost

may

in this village,

13

laboiu:

twenty of

their desertion

set fh-ni foot in the

and anxiety to reach.

is,

country
But, be

had been very apprehensive of meeting an armed force

and found not one individual, they were glad to

way they

which some ate with a

could.

little

For

this

rest

and

refi-esh

purpose a few sheep were

bread ; others without that luxury, because

the people of Pragelas had refused to

It

to find that

most extraordinary in

when they had

them such mispeakable

as they

themselves in the best

killed,

the very time

is

sell

impossible to read these passages without pain.

them any.

While thus engaged

Hitherto, those of the Waldenses

in

who had been

They had been pillaged,

thrown into dungeons, and sent to the galleys, but they had not been put to the sword. The case, it will be
allowed, does not admit of a parallel. The government had prisons for the prisoners; but the Waldenses,
captured in the present straggle, had been spared the pain of capital punishment

the more prisoners they took,

retain

them

and

more shackled they became in their operations. They could not

own lives were thereby exposed to additional jeopardy. One
remainedto shed the blood of the prisoners, in order to provide for
This the reader will find more fully explained in the words of this Narrative,

if

spared, the

if set at liberty, their

dreadful alternative, therefore, only

their

own

pp. 154-5.

personal security.


:;

TWELFTH

day's MARCH.

151

frugal mess, a soldier on the out-look having discovered a body of men

advancing by the Col-du-Pis, called " To arms !" The detachment, obser\diig this
tlieir

movement, but mistaking the Waldenses

for

by means of a handkerchief, that they

signals
his

some of their own people, made

also were troops in the senice of

They accordingly advanced without

Royal Highness.

and being

hesitation,

surrounded, were taken and disanned, and proved to be militia of Cavours, fortysix in number,

who had been

Pass of the Col-du-Pis.

sent with a sergeant at their head, to guard the

Having deliberated upon them

in a council of war,

held in the adjoining meadow, they were exhorted to pray to God, and then,

being led two and two to the bridge of the BalsiUe, were there put to death,

and their bodies thrown into the

from the Waldensian
like

After

manner.

faith,

Two

torrent.

peasants,

who had

apostatised

being taken at the same time, were despatched in

the troops quitted the Balsille rather late, in order

tliis,

to pass the night at Macel,

where they found bread and pro^asions which the

peasants had not had time to conceal under ground.

Next

Wednesday the twenty-eighth being the twelfth of their march

now rapidly advancing to the last point of their career, set out
Having reached the summit of the intervening ridge, they formed

day,

the Waldenses,
for Prali.

into two divisions, one of which crossing the mountain, directed

its

march upon

Rodoret, whilst the other defiled through the valley and hamlet of Fontaines.

The

object of this manoeuvi-e

in the place

was

to ascertain

whether any soldiers were stationed

but finding only a few Savoyards, these they put to the sword

and learning that the marquess de

of the ducal force

stationed

who had advanced by way

set fire to a chapel,

to

Parelle, the lieutenant-general in

guard the Col-de-Clapier

was

command

at Perrier, those

of Rodoret rejoined their friends at Prali, where they

which had been built since their expulsion, three years before.

Here, ha\'ing found to their great satisfaction the old temple of Guigou
serviceable, they took advantage of the circumstance,
(as already stated in

our sketch of Prali) performed the

They removed every thing from

ship.

and

still

witliin its sacred walls

first

act of public wor-

Romish
Arnaud then moimted on a
he might be heard distinctly by those

the sanctuary that savoured of

worship, and sang the seventy-fourth psalm.*

bench, placed in the door-way

so that

without, as well as those within, the walls

and,

after the

hundred and twenty-

ninth psalmf had been sung, preached in exposition of the verses.

"

God, why hast thou

cast us off for ever?

why

pasture ? Remember thy congregation which thou hast purchased of old," &c.
t " Many a time have they afflicted me from my youth, may Israel now say.

.yet

The ploughers ploughed upon my back, they made long their furrows.
he hath cut asunder the cords of the wicked," &c.
against me.

It cannot

doth thine anger smoke against the sheep of thy

have they not prevailed

The Lord is righteous

THE WALDENSES

52

but strike every one as a most remarkable

of divine service after their return

was

fact, tbat this

the

celebration

first

performed in the very temple

Leidet* had expounded the gospel, and from which he was dragged to

vs'here

seal his

testimony on the scaffold at S. Michel, near Luzern.

On

the following day,

August the twenty-ninth,

Arnaud had

after

offered

up

prayers, they again set out with the intention of passing the Col-Julien, so as to

descend into the Valley of Luzern.

On arriving near Ferrouillarie, where they met

a war-horse straying at large, they rightly concluded that

great distance
his escape,

and soon

was put

After advancing a

to death.

tlie

enemy was

who, on attempting

after fell in vrith a peasant,

at

no

make

they descried a

little farther,

sergeant of the Duke's guard, with a peasant for his guide

to

who, as soon as

he came within had of the officer in advance, called out, " Are you the marquess
" Yes !" replied the officer, in Piedmontese
whereupon the
de Parelle ?"
;

sergeant coming forward was

same

in expectation of the

accordingly, that he

made

prisoner, his guide put to death,

he knew.

fate, offered to disclose all

He

"

had been dispatched into the Val-St.-Martin,

condition of the Waldenses

that he belonged to the enemy's van

and he,

confessed,

to learn the
;

that there

were two hundred of the royal guards well entrenched, and watching them on
the Col-Julien and that seventeen days had already elapsed since the regiment
;

left

Nice on

its

route for the Valleys

themselves had begun their march.

was

divided, as usual,

that
At

is,

three days before even the exiles

this intelligence, the

mto three battahons

the

Waldensian force

holding to the right, the

first

left, and the third, being the principal

Having reached the highest point of the
much inclined to make a short halt to recover from

division,

second to the

keeping along

the centre.

forest, the right division

felt

their fatigue

spied out by one of the enemy's sentinels, they

post before

the

troops

should

arrive

to

made

dispute

important object, they had not a minute too

but, being

instant haste to carry the

To

it.

much

for

accomplish

the

this

enemy havmg

resolved to do the same, pressed in fi'om every pomt, and only lost the manoeuvTe

by the merest

trifle.

When

they saw that the Waldenses had gained their point,

they made a hasty retreat, favoured by a very dense fog, and bawling out in their

" Come on, come on, you

foolish bravado,

devil's

imps

we have

seized every

!"
adding, by way of rhodoand our force outnumbers three thousand
montade, " Tell Monsieur le Chevalier to take good care of his post !" And at

post,

every step which the Waldenses

would have burst

or I will fire

made towards them,

his lungs with vociferating,

I will fire !"

the sentinel seemed as if he

" Qui vive?

qui vive?" " Speak,

such was the

But not one shot was discharged

* See pages 83, 84 of the present work.

FIFTEENTH DAY's MARCH.

which they were

terror with

coming

where they thought themselves

the very entrenchments,

in

153

inflamed with the desire ot

length,

Waldenses took the glorious resolution of attacking

to close quarters, the

these hraggarts

At

seized.

Seeing that this was really intended, and that they were

so perfectly secure.

going to be invested on

them

grace, lea%'ing behind

enemy made

sides, the

all

of musketry, for about half an hour

all

a few

awkward

discharges

and then abandoned their post with

their provisions,

dis-

ammunition, and baggage, not

even excepting the rich unifonn of the commandant.

This exploit cost the exiles only one man, Joshua !Mandan, of Luzern, a very
brave soldier,

who expired the following day of his wounds, and was buried at
The enemy now fled with so much terror and precipi-

Pausettes, under a rock.

tation to the convent of Villar, that they did not even adopt the precaution of

giving the alarm, either to those at Serre-le-Cruel, under the Aiguille, or at Bobi.

The

named

Col-Julien being thus won, the victors pushed on as far as a place

Les Passarelles de

Julien,

where they captured and instantly put

to death

thirty-one of the fugitives, besides three horses, one of which was that of the

commandant, with

rain, a circumstance

this,

they passed the

made very uncomfortable by

to release his

of escaping, by sliding and rolling

following day, Friday

the

hands from the cords, found also those

dowi

mountain.

to the base of the

thirtieth,

the weather becoming

fine,

Waldenses started with the dawn, and spent the whole day in giving chase
enemy, who, always flying
But,

of Bobi.
retreat

much

the

which favoured the escape of the sergeant above mentioned,

who, having found means

The

After

his pistols still in the holsters.

night under the Aiguille, where they were

still

as the

former advanced, withdi-ew at

the

to the

last into the

town

apprehensive of being again attacked, they continued their

farther,

which being observed by the Waldenses, the

proper to indulge in a

little

relaxation,

and

latter

thought

purpose chose to halt at

for this

Sibau, a hamlet consisting of five or six chalets, with cattle-sheds, and within

musket-shot of Bobi.

The next

day, the last of August, they separated into two bands, one of wliich

ascended the highest part of the C6tes-de-Mendron, and the other proceeded
along the flank.
posts,

The

latter

was descried at once by some of the enemy's out-

who, like the others, taking instant

that they
defeat

would

this

intention,

the Waldenses

but, being observed, the

utmost consternation
denses,

who

flight,

gave the Waldenses to understand

trust for safety rather to their heels than their swords.

made a

rapid

enemy ventured only one

to Bobi,

where they were

movement

in

To

advance;

discharge, then fled in the

closely

entered in triumph, and there slew as

pursued by the Wal-

many

of the fugitives as

:;

THE WALDENSES.

154'

they could lay hands on while the inhabitants of the town, leaving every thing to
;

the conauerors, fled across the bridge without waiting to exchange a single shot.

And

here

must be admitted, to the great discredit of the Waldenses, that,

the enemy, tlie greater number amused themselves in

it

instead of pursuing

The

ransacking and plundering the town.

other division, which had marched

through the woods, observed a more exemplary conduct, and brought in twelve
soldiers, or armed peasants, ten of whom were condemned by court-martial, and
dispatched.

One

of the twelve,

named John Gras, with

his daughter-in-law

and

was allowed to escape, because aWaldensian captain made intercession for

them, saying, that " if they had never done the cause any good, neither had they
ever done it any harm." The reader must not be shocked that the Waldenses put
his father,

who fell into their

They had no prisons to

thus to death the prisoners

reason for so doing.

having themselves occasion for

to

guard them

whilst,

hands, as they had a powerful state

confine

them

and, in their march,

their strength, they could not afford

all

to discharge

hands

them, would have been to publish their

movements, their small amount of strength, and, in

short, every circumstance

on which the success of their enterprise depended. They learnt to their cost
the effect of relaxing from a maxim so imperative for, by having spared the two
Gras and his father^the ill-timed pardon became
individuals above mentioned
;

liighly prejudicial

to their

But the wrong which

cause.

occasioned, met, nevertheless, with

The next day being Sunday,

its

the

first

of September, and sixteenth of the

enterprise, the troops remained in their quarters

M. Montoux,

the only colleague of

between two rocks, stood upon

it,

these two ingrates

just reward not long after.

M. Arnaud,

at

Bobi and Sibaud, where

placing the door of a house

and delivered a very impressive sermon on

the words of our blessed Saviour, from the following text of St. Luke's Gospel

" The law and the prophets were until John

God

is

preached, and every

man

since that time, the

presseth into

it."

kingdom of

After sermon,

they

all

first

of which was

the oath of fidelity (already alluded to in this work) and which

Arnaud read

remained together in order

to fi-ame certain regulations

aloud in the formulary here annexed.*

As soon

the

as the reading

every man, stretching forth his hand to heaven, took the oath

was concluded,

after

which they

* Form of the oath. " God, by his divine grace, having happily led us back into the heritage of our
by the completion of that enterprise
which the Lord of hosts has hitherto conducted in our favour; We, the pastors, captains, and other officers,
swear in the presence of Almighty God, and at the peril of our souls, to observe union and order amongst us
never willingly to disunite nor separate so long as God shall grant us lifenot although we should be so
miserable as to be reduced to three or four never to temporize or treat with our enemies of France, nop- those
of Piedmont, without the participation of our whole council of war ; and to put together tlie booty which we
forefathers, there to re-establish the pure service of our holy religion,

SEVENTEENTH DAY's MARCH.

made a

list

155

of the booty, then in possession of the officers and men, appointing'

four treasurers and two secretaries, the same as in the state of actual war.

They

also appointed a major,

and sub-major, with permission

to exchange their companies, provided they could

doing.

They then concluded

and concealing

the day by taking

for the soldiers

show proper reasons

down

under a heap of stones, where the enemy found

it

fur so

the bell from the church,

it

some time

when they began to fortify Bobi.

Next day, Monday, the second of September, they assembled in the adjoinina
meadow, and thence, after prayer, set forward to make an attack upon Villar
afterwards

At

Pianta they formed two detachments, the largest of which kept along the

highway, and the other the heights above the vineyards, so as to make their
But here they committed a great oversight
attack from the side of Rosparo.
to La Combe, where they escaped with
who had repaired thither in the design of

by taking the wounded and baggage

great difficulty from the enemy,

them

carrying

Those who guarded the passage no sooner observed the

off.

Waldenses, than they

towards the

fled

Combe

were in Villar took shelter in the convent.

town, the Waldenses set

But the heavy

greatly

fire

annoying

fire to several

houses in order to guard against surprise.

of musketry which the

Arnaud adopted

them,

hogsheads and tubs to be rolled into the

for those

who were

who

of Val-Guichard, while those

Finding themselves thus masters of the

enemy kept up from

the

streets,

expedient

the convent

causing

of

large

which served as a breastwork

pressing forward to the convent.

Many, with whom

this

contrivance succeeded, entered the neighbouring houses, from which, by means

made in the walls, they directed their shot against those who were
upon them from the belfry. The loss on the part of the Waldenses
amounted to oifly three men, one of whom was the Sieur Turin, a Swiss, very much
of loop-holes

firing

regretted, as well for his being personally a gallant soldier, as for his being on all

occasions

prompt and

skilful in

drawing up the troops in order of

battle.

He

belonged to the volunteer company, formed on the second of August, and was
now, or may have, to be applied to the wants of our people, or eases of emergency. And we, soUlier,
Bwear this day before God to obey the orders of all our officers and vow fidelity to them with all our hearts,
even to the last drop of our blood also, to give up to their care the prisoners and bootj', to be disposed of
as they shall judge fit. And in order to more perfect regulation, it is forbidden, under heavy penalties, to any
liave

officer or soldier to search

an enemy, dead, wounded, or a prisoner, during or

after battle

but for which

office

proper persons shall be appointed. The officers are enjoined to take care that the soldiers keep their arras
and ammunition in order ; and, above all, to chastise severely all who shall profanely swear, or blaspheme.
And to render union, which is the soul of our affairs, inviolable among us, we, the officers, swear fidelity to
officers; solemnly engaging, moreover, to our Lord and Saviour Jesus
lies, our brethren from the thraldom of the cruel Babylon, and with them to
and maintain his kingdom unto death. And by this oath we will abide all our lives."

GUI soldiers, and we soldiers to our

Christ, to rescue, as far as in us
re-establish

WALDENSES.

TH12

156
killed in,consequence of

him

rolled before

hanng ventured

too far from beliind a cask, which he

purpose above stated.

for the

Having now learnt from the prisoners that the besieged had no provisions
whatever, but rightly judging that,

storm the convent, the

it

effort

would

if

cost

they persisted in their determination to

them many

up the blockade

advisable merely to keep

till

lives,

This resolution being approved, they adopted every precaution

to surrender.

to cut off all supplies; and, in fact, having discovered a

mules, escorted by a company of soldiers,

and completely routing the

fugitives,

deemed

the Waldenses

famine should compel the inmates

however, ten

escort, seized the

men and

resolute

fifty

convoy of fourteen

men

convoy without

drummer were

flew to the spot,

Of

difficulty.

the

taken, and the fourteen mules,

with their freight of bread and wine, divided among the companies; after
which, for their greater security, they posted a corps-de-garde at Rospard, and
sentinels

so

watch and intercept any reinforcement that might

who very soon

besieged,

perceived

that

strengthened the hearts of the besiegers, had very

now

almost reduced to the last morsel

hand.

But here they met with

own
in

at Pertuzel, to

The

arrive.

themselves obliged to

retreat

made

the convoy, which

much

enfeebled their

a desperate sortie, sword

so hot a reception, that they soon found

once more within the convent

which

step

they performed with such precipitation, as to drag off by the heels the dead

body of
left in

On

their

commandant, the Baron de Chouate, whose hat and wig were

the street.

the following day, the third of September, the sentinel at Pertuzel fired

several

shots as signals that a reinforcement was

But

approaching.

as the

Waldenses, at the same time, observed that those of the convent had escaped,
and were passing the river to take refuge in the woods, they pursued them and
killed several,

drawing

but without any

off their

the Marquess de Parelle

had used

all

loss

on their own

side.

This pursuit, however, by

strength, favoured the entrance of the reinforcement under

:

for,

although those of the Waldenses,

still

possible diligence to reach the bridge of Rosparo, and,

in Villar,

when

there,

had kept up a heavy fire, still they were unable to arrest the enemy's progress.
Several of Parelle's companies had already taken possession of the lower end of the
valley, so as to surround and shut in those of the Waldenses who were engaged
in action at the bridge,

of quality.

and there killed many of the enemy, including an

Considering, therefore, the superior

number of

the

enemy

officer

com-

posed of dragoons, the royal guards, and other veteran troops and finding
themselves, besides, divided into two bodies, without the power of effecting a
junction

owing to the

enemy's having occupied the intermediate gi-ound

the

TWENTIETH DAy's MARCH.

157

Waldenses resolved not to proceed farther at so rash a venture

to spare their diminutive force,

abandoned

in various directions

met,

as if

by

miracle,

As

ceeded to the Alps of Angrogne.

men
Mount

at

Arnaud,

to

The main body then returned

Villar.

and the others, amounting to about eighty

to Bobi,

but, desirous

all

having escaped

Vandelin,

and pro-

thrice giving himself

after

for lost, and thrice xmiting in prayers witt the six soldiers who remained
with him, he at length rejoined those who had assembled on the mountain.

up

Montoux,

his colleague,

had a

different fate

for,

being captured by the peasants

of Cruzel, he was sent to the prison of Turin, where he remained in durance

the conclusion of peace with the duke of Savoy.

till

Next

day, the fourth of September, the

had encamped
a

at a

main body of the Waldenses, who

hamlet named Dupuy, on the heights above Bobi, dispatched

reinforcement to Arnaud at his post in the mountains of Angrogne,

that he might be in a condition to give battle to the

neighbourhood.

In the

mean

enemy quartered

so

in that

time, the remaining force proceeded, with the sick

and wounded, to take up a position among the granges of the Serre-le-Cruel.

On

the fifth day of the month, being the twentieth of their march, the above-

named detachment, now

wth

sent

intelligence

as soon as

he possibly could with

descried two
to escape,

men

received three

at Infernet,

men whom Arnaud had

from Angrogne, and a promise that he would join them

safety.

At break

sergeant, accompanied

of day the advanced guard

by a peasant, who, on attempting

was shot ; but the sergeant, being taken

to the

camp, confessed, on

examination, that he had been dispatched from Perrier, where he

and

fifty

men,

for

whom

he came to purchase tobacco.

He

left

one hundred

added, that, at the foot

of the adjoining mountain, a quarter of a league from the camp, near a hamlet,
there were eleven mules, ten
veal,

mutton,

of

them laden

and other provisions

Having furnished

vrith tents,

and the other with

the whole in charge of only two men.

this information, the sergeant

was put

to

death

and Arnaud,

proceeded direct to the foot of the mountain.

Here they found the mules deserted by their drivers, who had taken flight;
and, destroying all, except that with the provisions, they burnt the seventeen

in

person, with

six

bales of tents with

soldiers,

which they were laden, and then made a hearty meal of the
had great need. When their repast was

pro\nsions, of which, in truth, they

finished,

the

and while ascending the moiuitain, they found a load of grenades which
and taking from thence as much powder as they

enemy had abandoned

were in want

of,

dispatched vnth fifteen

base of the

they scattered the rest

men

among

the rocks.

to reconnoitre the

mountain; and observing in

his

captain was then

enemy's force encamped at the

\vay

four

soldiers,

who were

THE WALDENSES.

158

retreat to the convent of

of the motmtain,

lest,

they were intercepted, and obliged to

the enemy,

proceeding right towards

At

Angrogne.

length, having reconnoitred both sides

on account of the dense

might

fog, they

into

fall

some

ambuscade, they began the ascent, and, after two hours' march, found a barrel
of wine, which came very opportunely to hand for a detachment of twenty;

who had been

nine men,

returned with

own hunger.
Next day,
first

sent to forage in the direction of Angrogne, had

only one chestnut

loaf,

quite

insufficient

to

allay even their

the sixth of the month, and twenty-first of the expedition, their

who were

capture consisted of two armed fugitives,

put to death.

On

interrogated and then

who escaped
command

arriving in the village, they espied two peasants,

But the

almost naked, and might have easily been shot.

officer in

of the party had given strict orders not to kill any person of this place, but,

on the contrary, to bring before him

all

who

could be captured, in order that

they might be dealt with according to circumstances

extremely apprehensive
Protestant brethren,

lest

for

they should unwittingly have

who might

still

the Waldenses were

shot

be found in these parts.

any of their

In

fact,

it

was

but an instant after that they met a woman, who, in the previous war, had
lent powerful succour to those
religion

who had

risen in defence of their country

and

but having been afterwards married to a Savoyard, she had sufiered

herself to be persuaded to change, or rather to appear to change, her religion.

Yet

still,

looking upon the Waldenses as her brethren, she

now gave them twenty-

four loaves, weighing four or five pounds each, with a promise to serve
to the utmost of her ability

went
them.

on account

She even

so far as to hint, that, if she obtained quarter for her husband,

one of the two peasants suffered

to escape,

them

so privately,

by the government.

whenever she could do

of the rigorous proliibitions recently enforced

who was

she would bring him to join

After being told that she had nothing to fear for her husband, she was

suffered to depart.

The men composing

discovered,

this

detachment now observing that the enemy had

and were endeavouring

bread towards the Vachere Alp.

to surround them, retired hastily with their

Here they found

three of the enemy's soldiers,

one of whom, attempting to escape, was stopped short by a musket bullet,

which, throwing him prostrate upon the earth, sent his
into Charon's boat.*

The two

spirit

by a

single

bound

others were taken and bound, and observed

* This classical pleasantry, so unseasonable,

and which would have been

so particularly

unbecoming

in

a minister of peace, is another presumptive proof that Amaud could not have written this journal, (see
the former note,) which " was drawn up from notes taken by those who had the chief direction of the aifairs it
relates." iien^ree, page 130.

TWENTY-FIRST DAY's MARCH.

159

very frankly that they had approached the camp of the Barbets, which, according
to

them,

consisted of only fifty persons

confessed that, on the

then, as if desirous to please, they

summit of the mountain, they had four

To

sentinels.

these the Waldenses marched directly forward, and called out that they were

a detachment from the Marquess de Parelle.

this,

came down

full sixty

suspecting, or observing the ruse, escaped

remained firm

in so

Two

of the sentmels, on hearing

paces towards the "Waldenses, but then, suddenly

Had

by favour of a thick fog.

it was by

could have easily disputed the passage of this detachment, which,

they

rocks, they

advantageous a position, covered as

now

finding

where they lodged the two prisoners, and

where the bread wliich they had brought with them, added to some -u-ine and
rice furnished by others, was distributed.
The two prisoners ha\'ing been

no

obstacle, returned to the camp,

interrogated, one of them, a sergeant, was put to death

other was an able surgeon, of

whom

suffered greatly, from having only an apothecary,

with piroper

skill, his life

but, finding that the

there was great need for the

who

wounded who

could not treat them

was spared on condition that he should do good and

faithful service in his art.

After having refi-eshed themselves with a very scanty meal, they sent another

detachment towards Damian in search of provisions.

two men who

Meeting on

way

their

and would not stop when ordered, they were shot; but
the village, the detachment retraced its steps with empty

fled,

finding nothing in

hands and increased hunger.

But, on reaching the camp, they had the comfort

company with another detachment of two hundred men from Bobi,

who had come to reinforce M. Arnaud.
The latter, desirous of retiu-ning
thanks to God on the instant for this happy event, lifted up his voice in prayer
in the midst of them
but this duty he was compelled to abridge, for the enemy
were observed making exertions to render themselves masters of a position above
the mountain of La Vachere.
Deeming it advisable, therefore, not to allow
them such an advantage, they sent forward a detachment, which acted with

to enter

it in

so

much promptitude and decision, that it not only carried the post
who were within fifty 'paces of them, but slew

teeth of the enemy,

than a hundred of their men, without incurring any loss whatever

pelling

them

rocks.

The same

to seek their safety

in the very
also
;

by thi-owing themselves under cover of the

had set

out several days before, and duruig the last two had not tasted food.

it

not to give.

less

day, the Waldenses received a detachment which

bread was given to each

had

no

and com-

man

After

a morsel

this,

Some

about the size of a walnut, for they

with hearts overflowing with zeal to God, who

gave them power to act with such fortitude, they flew to take part in a sharp

THE WALDENSES.

160

engagement

at

Mont

Here they

Cervin, which lasted seven houi-s.

lost

only three

men, namely, James Robert, Michael Gardion, John Rostaing, and the Sieur
The enemy had many killed;
Bailli, who was left wounded by the way.

among

others, six officers, one of

soldiers

who

mist

fell

in the action

commg on was

whom was M,

Dutry, but the exact number of

which only terminated

not ascertained.

to spare, did not wish to fire, as the

consequence of a thick

in

The Waldenses, having no ammunition

enemy did, but when they could see their

Besides, liaving nothing to eat, nor even to drink, unless by fetching

object.

through the enemy's

fire,

that, eventually, they

to retire

from a distance of

must be forced

five

hundred paces, and fearing

deemed

to give in, they

it

most expedient

especially while the fog continued to favour their retreat.

This they

performed with so much expedition and good order, that the enemy
probably, amounted to six hundred
till

remained quite unconscious of their

the Waldenses were a league distant in a

named Turina.

Here

their only

little

who,

retreat,

hamlet among the rocks,

banquet was raw cabbages,

to kindle a fire for fear of being discovered

it

also,

as they

were afraid

by the enemy, who, not daring

advance farther, had encamped within a quarter of a league of them.

to

Thus

terminated the twenty-first day's enterprise.

Next morning, September the

Perrier, but

one

by places so

false step

was

difiRcult,

sufficient to cause destruction.

their precautions to save the

vent

its falling

seventh, they retreated in the dii-ection of

and so intersected by

friglitful precipices,

that

Here, notwithstanding

all

sumpter mule above mentioned, they could not pre-

over a precipice, where

it

was

lost.

hamlets on their way, but could find nothing to

They passed through

eat,

different

except what grew upon the

Having reached Fayet, situated on a small eminence about a musket-

trees.

shot from Perrier, they found that the one hundred and fifty men, as reported,

were
flight,

there.

The

inhabitants seeing the "Waldenses advance, sought safety in

and abandoned the

soldiers,

who,

them, took refuge in the convent.

had a mind

now much weakened by

broken down, and that

many

fortified

second volley discharged at

to storm the place, but an opposite opinion prevailed,

ration that they were

of so

after the

portion of the Waldensian detachment

people

it

would be a step of extreme rashness

in an

attack

upon troops entrenched

with bastions, and which, independently of

was protected by a height, named

la

on conside-

long fasting, that the bridge was

its

to risk the lives

in a convent well

advantageous situation,

Croix de I'Escasse.

Seeing, in fine, that

nothing more could be done, they ascended to Le Crouzet, where, in order to

appease

the keen

gnawings of hunger, and recover a

little

strength,

prepared some cabbage broth, mixed with pease and leeks, without

salt,

they
fat,

TWENTY-THIRD DAV's MARCH.

or any seasoning whatever

but which they

and then dispatched eight men

to

to

Prah

to ascertain if the

make search for provisions.

The two following days were passed

161

ate, nevertheless,

manner

the

in

with good appetite,

enemy was

there,

lierc described

and

One

of the eight scouts above mentioned, having reported that the Waldenses might

advance to Prali without danger, they went thither accordingly on the eighth
of September.
Here, being hard pressed by hunger, they fell to gi'inding corn
with

all

baked bread, and, seeing the occasion very favourable

diligence,

for

recovering from the effects of fatigue and fasting, thought proper to remain there

two days, while they sent parties

whatever wheat

detachments

to forage in the villages around,

remained in the open

still

two companies

After

fields.

taking the road to Bobi

this,

and bring away

they formed two

with one of which, that

of Michael Bertin, Arnaud, after having administered the sacrament to those

of the Val-St.-lNIartin, set out to perform the same duty to those in the Valley

at Bobi,

as
in

he much feared that the wounded, who might

But

must be

of Luzern.

mentioned prisoner, whose

sional service.

had

left in

be found

still

need of a good surgeon, he took along with him the abovelife

Being anxious,

had been spared

also,

in consideration of his profes-

wounded whom they

men to make inquiries after them,
coimtry who had volunteered to join the

respecting some of the

the Val-Pragelas, they sent three

who brought away

five individuals

of the

Waldenses, and also a soldier of Lower Daupliiny, who had been there
This party drove

off,

left

on their return, one hundred and eighty sheep,

wounded.
of which,

all

except eleven which belonged to Dr. Perron, were the property of John Passegonet.
consul of the commonalty of Pragelas,
in the last persecution.

a rigid persecutor,

him,

all

was

lost.

retribution in one

now

sent a small

was but

It

way

who had

revolted against the Waldenses

Perron, wh.o had also turned against them and become

sum

of

money

to

just, indeed, that these

or other for their perfidy

redeem the
two

spoil

traitors

for they

but,

should

for

make

had both acted

as

guides to the French troops, consisting of two hundred dragoons and four hundred

who had arrived the previous morning near the field of Bouchas, where
Arnaud, only the day before, had offered up an affecting prayer before entering
the Valley of Luzern and where, had the French arrived only two hours sooner,

infantry,

they must have entrapped the Waldenses.

But, although so well guided, and

in sufficient strength to have proceeded boldly in quest of their enemies, these

troops durst not advance a step further, and contented themselves by showing
their valour in plundering the village of Jaussaud, in the Val-Pragelas
as

an excuse

for this outrage, that the

there spent the night.

alleging

Waldenses, on entering the Valley, had

In extenuation of

T T

tliis

offence, the inhabitants eagerly

THE WALDENSES.

162

pleaded their inability to resist such guests, and their having no choice but to

The

submit: but nothing could stop the pillage.

took pleasure in thus aggravating their
densiaii soldiers,

who,

after being

distress,

wounded

evil-minded consul,

These

lurking-places.

strict search,

off to Brian9on,

having partially recovered of their wounds, to Grenoble.

the perfidious

who from

consul,

remain long unpuinshed

in

human

blood, he

ledge

that, if his fall

for,

from

fell

had well nigh broken

his

On

But God

tlie

was not quite

to tlie

and thence,

did not suffer

a brother had changed to a persecutor, to

on the same day in which he became a

trafficker

wHch

top of a staircase to the bottom, by

neck, and was

from heaven, and ought at

them up

discovered twelve more in their

were sent

ill-fated victims

had

in the action at Salabertrann,

here concealed themselves among the bushes, he dehvered

French, who, on making a more

also,

and discovering three Wal-

in truth so seriously hurt, as to

he

acknow-

like that of Saul, it was, nevertheless, a reproof

least to serve

him

as a

solemn warning.

who had been sent

away some arms which had been taken from the enemy
observed, on their return, a great smoke spreading over

the tenth of September, a detachment of Waldenses,

to the Balsille to bring

and concealed
that the

there,

On

the valley.

ascending a height to ascertain the cause,

enemy was burning

all

they discovered

the villages about Perrier, and, as this was a

symptom of his retreat, eighty men were ordered to watch his movements.
But such was the severity of the weather that most of them, unable to brave its
inclemency, were compelled either to halt by the way, or return to the camp. Of
the more resolute, however, fifteen succeeded in reaching Perrier, where they found
that the enemy had broken up his camp, and left only a guard, which, dechning
to

measure ground with

Perrier as victors, our

their formidable visitors, took to flight.

little

band was astonished

could desert a post so strongly

fortified

Thus, entering

but they found that the hostile

occupants had taken good care to burn every thing in the neighbourhood.
their

who

at the cowardice of those

example, and to the eternal disgrace of those

who had

After

suffered fifteen

men

to take possession of such a post, the victors set fire to the church, the convent,

and then

to

the houses;

after which,

seeing that

it

was already

late,

they

enterprise,

they

returned to their quarters at Prali and Rodoret.

The

follo\ving

day,

Wednesday, the twenty-sixth of

tlie

formed another detachment, which proceeded to the bridge of Pomaret, or

Macel, where the enemy had a corps-de-garde.

who had

halted at the bridge of Raut, a

fort in order to take

some peasants

little

whom

Twelve Waldensian

above Macel, marched

soldiers,
tip to

the

they caught sight of: of these they

killed one, and, taking prisoner another well

known

as

an apostate, descended

TWENTY-SEVENTH DAY's MARCH.

signals for

tlie

others to advance, and being answered

were in the vineyards

163

Here, observing the said corps-de-garde, they made

to the bridge of Macel.

they

marched

by

fifteen

for the rest

straight forward to the station.

soldiers, instantly taking to their heels, left the post to the victors,

them

four of

including

the apostate

and

But the

who

killed

took two men, two women, and

This detachment was well inclined to advance

three children, prisoners.

but

the two prisoners, having informed them that French troops were constantly

on the march towards Pragelas, with orders to attack the Waldenses,

judged advisable to return with

all

its

main body would require

first

discovered, had called out that

it

strength.

As

the two prisoners,

was their wish to surrender

the troop, which he gladly accepted

shoidd

make himself useful

men were

this,

when
joined

were only deluded brethren, and had never been

persecutors, spared their lives, but on this condition, that one of

time, four

was

speed to Prali, where, in case of an attack,

the

to the consideration that they

it

all

them should

and that the other, on being

to the cause in the best

way he

could.

join

liberated,

In the mean

sent forward to Pragelas, to ascertain whether the report

respecting the enemy's advance was correct, after which the detachment returned
for the night to Prali

Next

and Rodoret.

day, the four spies returned from Pragelas with a confirmation that the

king's troops,

Pragelas

on

their

march from Cazal and Pignerol, had ascended the Val-

but, after having

encamped three days

at the bridge of Salabertrann,

with a force of eight thousand, had suddenly broken up and retired from this
point

on hearing a report that Cazal was invested by the

cheering intelligence was

scarcely

made known

to

Spaniards.

the Waldenses,

expresses arrived fi-om their friends in the Val-Luzern, entreating their

diate co-operation against the
infantry,

On

had driven back one of

This

when two
imme-

enemy, who, with a strong body of horse and

their detachments,

and taken possession of Bobi.

receipt of this alarming dispatch, a council of

war decided on ordering a

detachment to proceed in the direction of Angrogne, and compel the enemy to

evacuate Bobi.
Eighty men were accordingly dispatched on this service, and
passed the early part of the night on the moimtain of Lazara.
Starting four hours before dawn, they contmued their

and

at sunrise

came within

march by moonlight,

sight of Pignerol, near the convent of

Angrogne.

Here they halted, and sent forward two scouts, who reported that none of
the enemy were in sight but, at the same time, the captain espied seven or eight
They now offered ujj their
peasants entering a grange which belonged to him.
;

morning prayers

and then, under the apprehension that they formed part of an

ambuscade, sent thirty

men

in pursuit of the peasants.

Favoured by a thick

THE WALDENSES.

164

morning

fog,

who

others

they gained close upon tliem without being perceived

They were

whole to escape.

closely pursued,

but two

however, and three of them

two women* who were among those who

killed, as well as

and thus enabled the

lay concealed above them, gave the alarm,

By

fled.

some, the

pursuit was continued to the very walls of the convent, where a few shots were
fired

without

They then withdrew

eflect.

to join their comrades,

who, in the

had captured a man and woman, who informed them that three hundred
men had arrived the preceding day at the convent, and that a body of cavalry
This intelligence decided them not to
was now stationed at St. Germain.
proceed further and having put the prisoners to death, they sent to the others an

interval,

On

invitation to join them.

which they

their

way, they

fell in

with a mule and two

asses,

and took prisoners two young women, who, since the

killed,

Having rejoined

persecution, had changed their religion.

their

last

friends, they

discovered a peasant in a small hamlet somewhat above them, to which they

advanced, after stripping the leaves from their hats so as to pass for troops of

Having reached the

Savoy.

were

as tall

prisoners,

spot, the peasant

and his three sons

two of whom

the father, and the third of the age of fifteen

as

and put

to death

after

which they proceeded

were

made

to the granges of the

Pra-del-Tor, and there took up their quarters for the night.

The

following day, the two

detachment, according to

Luzern,

who

lay

its

young women were

On

encamped above Bobi.

they were met by four

soldiers,

return to Angrogne, and,

their

who came with

if possible,

burn

upon, measures were instantly taken for

observed on the mountain a body of

now made

at liberty;

set

when

the

instructions, proceeded to join those in the Val-

all

its

march towards

point,

This being resolved

the villages.

execution

at least five

this

instructions on their part to

when, suddenly, they

hundred of the enemy.

a bold struggle to be the first to gain the

summit

They

but the enemy

observing their design, and having the advantage in point of distance, succeeded
in the

manoeuvre

while the Waldenses, wheeling to the

of a post hard by, in spite of a heavy

battle continued during a full hour,

been attended with much greater

* This, and similar

fire

left,

took possession

poured in upon them.

Here the

and would have lasted much longer, and

loss,

had not a

fog, rain,

and the approach of

have been usually suppressed by the translators of the Hentree, whilst the atrocities committed on the other hand have been detailed without reserve.
It is our duty, however, as historians,
" Nothing to extenuate, nor set down aught in malice." It was only the strong principle of self-preservation
which impelled them to such acts. Besides, as Arnaud has himself observed, it " was never proposed to defend
every act of the Waldenses for, however venerable and ancient their name, they were not exempted from the
common frailty of men ;" and felt that, if justified in theirattempt to recover the possessions from which they
had been so barbarously expelled, tliey were justified in employing every means at their disposal. The word
was, " Slay, or be slain ;" and one prisoner suffered to escape, would have " returned with a legion."
facts,

THIRTIETH DAYS MARCH.

compelled the enemy to retreat with some

niglit,

165

The Waldenses then

loss.

retired to the huts of Infernet, where, finding no firewood, they were

compelled to unroof the sheds for fuel; and having stationed three men on

the outlook, and to ascertain in what direction the troops had gone, they learnt
that they had retraced their steps.

Next day, being the thirtieth of their enterprise, the detachment was still
unable to join their friends of Luzern, but effected a union with the main body
at Villeseche, in

the

the Val-St.-Martin, where they had taken their station for

But the people of Val-Pragelas, who possessed

sake of the \-intage.

considerable vineyards there,

having sent to treat with them, received permission to gather the grapes on payment of a hundred crowns, which they

The Waldenses now formed two detachments the

brouglit accordingly.

first

of which, composed of one hundred and sixteen men, advanced to reconnoitre an

outpost near St. Germain, and give chase to the corps-de-garde formed by the
peasants at Girbaud, so as to prevent being annoyed while engaged in making

wine and gathering chestnuts.

Here they arrived at an early hour and, having

caught sight of them, made towards the spot, while they were amusing themselves

in shooting at a target.
hit the

were

One

of the

number having

that very instant fired and

mark, was exceedingly elated by his success and little thinking who
" Ah what a fine shot that would have been, had
;

his listeners, exclaimed,

a Vaudois been there

He

had hardly spoken the sentence when the detachment rushed do\vn upon them. But so precipitate was their flight, followed by

all

!"

the peasants of the neighbouring villages, that, happily for them, they passed

the bridge of Pinache, and then broke

being continued.

had

no design

sheer

feint,

or

it

down, in apprehension of the pursuit

This, however, was quite unnecessary

to

violate

the

territory

some impenetrable

molesting the Waldenses.

On

of

cause,

their return

France,

appeared

from

to

for the

which,

detachment

whether

from

have no intention of

this expedition, the detach-

ment set fire to several houses in the hamlets through which they passed,
where they took prisoners two Piedmontese women. Retui'ning to Villeseche,
along the upper ridge of the vineyards belonging to Val-Pragelas, they found
a supply of wine in a cabin, with which they refreshed themselves; and as
their

two female prisoners appeared

to fancy the liquor, they

had the pleasure

of seeing with what aversion they drank these unpalatable toasts the healths of
" William the Third !"' the " Elector of Brandenburgh," the " Duke of Schonberg," and " Prosperity to the Protestant States of Germany."

The

other detachment, which

had descended on the

side of Perouse,

taken prisoners a considerable number of men, women, and

u u

childi-en,

of

had

whom

THE WALDENSES.

166
all

who

themselves subjects of France, were

declared

principal capture

Marquess de

and was then put

other,

to death

traitors

was compelled

by way of recompense.

day, and a great concourse of people in the town,

infinite pleasure to the spectators, that it

ordered the execution of some harhets.

it

was

their

guides to the

as

These were taken to the station-house

Parelle.

where a gibbet being erected, one of the

But

released.

was that of two renegades, who had served

at

Perouse,

to execute the

This being the

But

as soon as the truth

became known,

the joy on the occasion was instantly converted into distress and terror
all

merchants,

the

country in every

On

fair

with

at first concluded,

was the Marquess de Parelle who had

and those who had come

to attend the

fair,

and

fled to

the

dii-ection.

the sixteenth, leaving Pragelas, and marching

all

the Col-de-la-Buff'u, and set fire to Villeseche, which the

night, Parelle passed

Waldenses had aban-

start on their way to

But while they were concertwhere it was easy to have secured

doned the evening preceding, in order to gain two hours'

the Col, where they

felt it their

duty to attack him.

ing measures for surprising him at this point,

the victory, a message arrived from another small detachment, to say, that,
the others would join them, they would attack the marquess without

though none of the

advice,

best,

was adopted

but, while endeavouring to

the junction proposed, they discovered that the

Clusone, retired into the Val-Perouse,

enemy had passed

and was encamped

at

if

This

fail.

eflTect

the river

Pomaret, fiom

wliich he dispatched several companies to fortify themselves at Rioclaret, and

on the summit of La Zarra, or Scea.

Here, on observing that the Waldenses

now

(who, for several days past had been masters of the Val-St. -Martin) were

busily engaged in thrashing the corn which they had gathered from the fields,
so as to
to

be able to form a gi-anary at Rodoret, they sent forward some peasants

burn

effort

own

to

all

the wheat in the vicinity of Rioclaret and Payet, and used every

harass

views.

But,

and interrupt them in an operation

as

the "Waldenses had

so prejudicial

to

their

taken the precaution to establish a

flying camp, formed of volunteers, the enemy was completely

foiled

in

his

manoeuvres.

In the neighbourhood of Pomaret frequent skirmishes took place, in one of

which, wliilst a Waldensian,

whom

named Jean Bonnet, was

struggling with a soldier

he had brought to the ground, another came up, and making a stroke

at the latter,

we must

had the misfortune

to

wound

his comrade.

observe, was so vigilant and effective in

its

But

the flying camp,

operations, that

it

captured

some valuable convoys, so that every thing now went on prosperously with the
Waldenses, who had laid in a plentiful store of wheat, wine, apples, walnuts, and

'

THIRTY-FIRST DAY
and were

cliestnuts,

MARCH.

167

But, at the same time, they

living, comparatively, in Iuxiut.

were much mortified by the treachery of Turel, captain of one of the six auxiliary companies,

who, without any cause of

dissatisfaction

unless

become desperate,

idea that the aifairs of the Waldenses were

it

were an

or that he felt

himself no longer in a capacity to bear up under such continual fatigue

his plans for desertion with so

He

intention existed.
Balsille, giving it

much

started under pretence of going with a detachment to the

out that he would proceed theiice into the Val-Pragelas, there

and open those means of intercourse

to collect information, to encourage traffic,

much

of which they stood so

he

His scheme being highly applauded,

in need.

out with the best wishes of his comi-ades.

set

laid

that not the least suspicion of his

skill,

Shortly after,

however,

information was received that the knave had deserted along with the Serjeant,
his brother, a corporal, a cousin,

and two

soldiers of his

company.

abandoned the Waldenses merely from a dread of death

have been otherwise than glorious in such a cause

he

which

Embrun, he was taken

was broken

scaffold, or rather

alive

mortification of seeing himself the

around him

Many

twelve

of

whom

Grenoble,

to

on

most

tlie

not

For, having been

and there perished on a

wheel, with the last overwhelming

pitiable of all the

were hanged on his

others, according to the lots they

he

if

soon after found one

of the most ignominious and terrible that could be inflicted.

arrested at

But

could

right,

wretched companions

and six on

his left.

had drawn, were condenmed

to

the

galleys, or enrolled in the king's service.

Here

closes the journal of thirty-one days,*

set foot in Savoy,

exiles first

which had now elapsed since the

and during which they had encountered every

description of difficulty and privation, but for which they were

now recompensed

To the preceding route, as described in the Renlree, we append the following notes kindly furnished by
Mr. Brockedon, who, in the course of last summer, succeeded in tracing, step by step, the route of the
Waldenses from the lake of Geneva to their own Valleys.

Page 136, line 11." This," says Mr. Brockedon, " is an error.
St. Nicolas de Verose is a beautiful
on the mountain side above Bionna}', in the Val-Montjoy, and far down the valley, below where the
Vaudois descended. The difficult Pass is that of the Portetta, above the chalets of Barme, at the foot of the
Bon-homme. It is most correctly described in the narrative, but mis-named."
Versoy (p. 1.37, line 21). " Here they followed the banks of the Versoy notlsere. They did not get into
village,

the Val-Isere until just before they reached Scez (Sey ).

The Versoy

flows into the Iscre between St. Maurice

and Scez."

Page 139." Arrived

'

at Villar Rougy.'

Here

is

an error

ViUar Rougy

the Isere, opposite St. Foi, and lower dovra rather than tip the valley.

The

is

situated on the left

villages

bank of
meant were probably La

Tuille, or Bonere, both church villages."

Page

The

40, line

2." The mention of Tigne here, and Eutigne

order of the villages

is

St. Foi,

La Tuille, Bonere,

with a

in the preceding paragraph, I

little plain.

cannot reconcile.

Tigne, in a plain, the chief town

Laval, the highest church village at the foot of the Iserar."

Page

142, 4th

linefrom the bottom. "They descended by theCoL-DE-CL.viREE, the ViEwheregiven, to the

Valley of Jaillon, and when driven to reascend the

Claire'e,

passed by the Col-de-Touille to Salabertrann.

THE WALDENSES.

loo

by finding that they had

at last a firm footing in that

had been expelled with such glaring inhumanity and

They had

still

before them, however,

country from which they

injustice.*

a winter of unparalleled

suffering.

Their operations in the Valley of Luzern, their defence of the Balsille during
three attacks from the combined forces of France and Piedmont, furnish such

a mass of evidence in their favoiu', and present such a

list

of ennobling virtues,

that few readers can peruse the narrative without having this conviction forced

upon his mind, that " no

men

could have done and suffered the things which

they did and suffered, unless Grod had been with them."f

We

have already, however, in presenting to our readers

this simple narrative,

exceeded the limits assigned to a work in which the historical department

only employed in subservience

is

We

to the picturesque.

hasten, therefore,

new field but, before quitting these Valleys, we conclude with a brief
summary of the Waldenses from the " times of trial," to which our last pages have
to a

With

respect to Bourgeois, who, as before stated,

expedition to the Valleys, a very few words will

was

suffice.

to

have taken command of the Waldenses

in their

After hearing of the partial success of the enter-

he collected and headed a body of adventurers, about a thousand strong but of which only a small
portion were exiles and entered the Savoy territory with the intention of following in the traces of the previous expedition. The plan entirely failed. At the end of a week after disembarkation, general confusion
was followed by entire abandonment of the enterprise. They then hurried back to the lake of Geneva, where,
had the government not granted them boats to transport them across, they must all have fallen victims to the
prise,

vengeance of the Savoyards. The duke's anger was so much incensed against his allies of Bern for their
supposed assistance in the invasion of his territory, that, in order to appease him, the governor had Bourgeois

on a charge of rebellion, and having found him guilty, he was beheaded on the gates of Nyon.
attention, to use the concluding words of the Narrative, has been directed to events scarcely to be
but as the Waldenses did at the time, so must every reflecting reader now, attribute them to the
overruling providence of God. Was the victory ofSalabertrann less than miraculous, where eight hundred men
most of whom had never before handled a musket routed more than three times their o^vn amount of regular
troops, and killed six hundred, with a loss on tlieir own side of only fifteen ?
Who, but God, and God only,
tried
f

Our

imagined

could have inspired a handful of destitute men with the determination of recovering their native Valleys,
sword in hand, in defiance of their own prince, in opposition to the king of France then the terror of
Europe and under the direction of Arnaud, a man of peace, ignorant of arms or of war, who, after escaping the

pursuit of those

who sought

to deliver

him

conducted his flock by the most perilous

replanted them in their inheritance? And was it not

to the flames at Constjince,

most appalling dangers, and at last

Divine Providence which, contrary to the ordinary course of nature, so preserved the grain upon the earth
summer ? Thus,
Is it contheir Canaan, as if rejoiced to receive back her children, presented them with a supernatural gift.
ceivable that, without Divine aid, three hundred and sixty-seven Waldenses, confined in the rock of the
Balsille for six months, existing on vegetables, water, and a scanty allowance of bread, and lodging, like
corpses in holes under ground, should repulse and drive into disgraceful flight ten thousand French, and
twelve thousand Piedmontese ? When, at last, enraged at the desperate opposition of a mere handful of men,
route, through the

that the Waldenses gathered the harvest in the depth of winter instead of the height of

the French brought executioners, and mules laden with ropes, to offer up the Waldenses on gibbets as a
sacrifice of

thanksgiving

to whom were they indebted for their escape,

but to

God

This conclusion only

Omnipotent delivered them, gave them victory, supported them when

when destitute and finally inspired their prince to reinstate them
.Thanks, then, to the King of
in their heritage, that they might restore true devotion in the churches.
kings, who, in selecting the Waldenses as the instruments of such wonders, appears to have sanctioned their La Rentree.
religion as that in which he would be served, honoured, and obeyed, by all the redeemed.

can be drawn

in all their battles the

faint-hearted, supplied

them

witli necessaries

CONCLUSION OF PEACE.

\Ql)

been devoted, down to the present day.

fully the picture

To the reader who woukl .study more

which their defence of the Balsille has transmitted to us, we
work by Aclaud.*

cordially reconnneud the well-known

At

last,

spread joy,

the declaration of war against France was confirmed news whicb

among the remaining Waldenses for the herald that proclaimed
;

war with France, proclaimed freedom to the Waldenses. The duke of Savoy,
who had experienced in the late campaign the invincible spirit of his Waldensian
subjects, was now anxious to
men whom no bribe could

secure their services, and plant the frontier with

no privations discourage, and no force

seduce,

subdue.

Among

the

first

tokens of restoration to their prince's favour, was the return

of four captives from the prisons of Turin in excliange for

From

this

time their prospects became every day more cheering

M. De Vignaux.
;

for intelligence

reached them that the duke had given his assurance, not only of liberty of
conscience, but of permission for their pastors to preach even at Turin.
After

which they gave ample proof of the loyalty which this happy
change in their favour had excited, a circumstance occurred which elicited from
several exploits, in

A party

the sovereign himself a frank and full declaration of their rights.

of

Waldenses having captured a French courier with despatches. Baron Palavicino,

commander of the duke's

troops,

Arnaud, Odin, and Friquet,

in

"

to his

the most gracious manner,

You

have only one

we have been

foes,

God and one

me, I in like manner will

you

shall

felt at

leader

whom

prince

the time

after

receiving

by
them

serve

but

them

To

faithfully.

Hitherto

strangers alone our mis-

your duty, you expose your lives for

expose mine for you and while I have a morsel of
;

if,

as is

have your share."*

course, greatly increased

keenly

royal highness, who,

addressed them in these memorable words:

henceforth let us be friends.

fortunes are to be attributed

bread,

directed that they should be presented

by the

The energy of

irritation

these expressions was, of

against France which the

and the desire of binding

duke so

to his interests the intrepid

he now addressed, but who, after serving the occasion, was

length to take his place

at

among

" Tlie broken tools which tyrants cast away."

Tlic conduct of the

*

Waldenses

in the

war which now ensued between France

From

the statements of those wlio had the best opportunities of acquiring correct information it
would
appear that the force brought against the Balsille in the last attack, amounted to twelve thousand troops of
the line, and fourteen hundred peasants.

t Vous

Dieu et qu'im prince h servir; servez Dieu et votre prince en toute conscience.
de vos malheurs. M.iis, si vous faites votre devoir, je ferai le mien et aussi longun morceau de pain, vous en aurez votre part.

n'avez qu'un

D'autres ont

eU

la cause

tems que

j'aurai

X X

THE WALDENSES.

170

and

tlie

Confederates, elicited the higliest apjDrobation from tliose in

while Prince Eugene himself took occasion to

By

in his disi^atches.

acknowledged
in

the impartial testimony of accredited writers, they are

having contributed very essentially to several important victories

as

Piedmont, which

mark

the striking

command,
make honourable mention of them

finally

compelled the French to evacuate the territory.

To

of confidence TOth which, in his adversity, their sovereign

honoured his Protestant subjects,

About two years before

we have

already alluded.*

his abdication in 1728, this prince,

who had expe-

rienced and expressed the highest opinion of the fidelity of his Waldensian
subjects, directed the governor of Pignerol to administer to

allegiance, with a promise

their Valleys.

on

new

those

all

who had not been born

Protestants, who, at the invitation of their prince, were

how

settled in the

powerfully they had wielded them in his service, and the edict was

carried into effect.

Driven from the habitations which they had so well earned,

unhappy wanderers

Wirtemberg, where
bers

now

But, having no farther occasion for their swords, his royal highness

Valleys.

these

within

These amounted to a very considerable number; for the

the recovery of their Valleys, had been joined by many foreign

frontier.

Waldenses, after

forgot

in

But, at the same time an order was issued to restrict their

country to certain hmits, and to banish

the

them the oath of

and religious toleration

his part of security

set out in search of a

their descendants

It

dispatched after

them

Mont

new country

in the territory of

though in very reduced num-

was on

that

inadvertently stated in a former page,f

bread was wrested from them on

exist,

still

and impoverished circumstances.

this occasion

and

not, as

an order on the commissariat for

Cenis by government couriers,

who were

for that purpose.

During the reign of Napoleon,

and

as already observed,

the "Waldenses enjoyed

of their fellow-subjects;

but with the

restoration at the close of the war, the sun of their prosperity

was darkened,

all

the

political

rights

liberties

the strong line of demarcation was again

and those

civil restrictions

and reestablished by royal authority. J

It is

much

for his refuge,

drawn between Catholic and Protestant,

which now weigh so heavily upon them, sanctioned

To

to be regretted that the silver tankard which the

this,

Duke

however,
left a3

we have

already

a token of having chosen Eora

and the family of a Waldensian peasant as the guardians of their sovereign's

life,

has been

lost, See Dr. Gilly's Wold. Researches.

bottom of page 109, and Preface to " La Rentrfe."

X For a particular account of the present political condition of the Waldenses, the reader is referred to
This author, so highly distinguished for his
Dr. Gilly's admirable work " Waldensian Researches."
learning and philanthropy, is one of the best and ablest advocates that Providence ever raised up in behalf of
a suffering people. By his example, others have been stimulated to a hearty cooperation in the same cause*
were
first prompted to the good work by a perusal
and two of the most devoted benefactors of the Waldenses

t See Note

at the

PAYS-DE-NEFF.

VALLEYS OF DAUPHINY.

171

adverted in the early part of the work, and shall not detain the reader by a
mere repetition of facts. But as an able and zealous advocate of the Waldenses

has justly observed, "

tant powers

who

it

is

insisted

matter of regret,

on

if

not of censure, that the Protes-

this restoration for the benefit of the sovereign,

should have insisted on nothing for the benefit of his people.

powers take upon themselves

to dispose of nations, they

for the interests of those disposed of.

was that

Wlien great

make themselves

trustees

Shamefully indeed, in this instance,

trust discharged."

Fair land, on which the lamp of heaven hath shone

With that bright lustre, which the hallowed Dove,
Descending from the Son's eternal throne.
Shed with the tidings of the Father's love !
Land, where Religion sanctifies the grove.

Smiles o'er the vale, and triumphs on the

Lifting the sufferer to the realms above

hill.

Thy lowliest home, thy mountain's meanest

The soul with themes for deep reflection fill.

rill.

'Tia here the pastor's voice, the Word of God,

In sweet companionship, at every hearth.
Lighten and cheer the pilgrim on his road
'Tis here the martyr's dust, the patriot's worth.

Have hallowed every

Inspired

rood of native earth

what their pure faith alone inspires

strength which, like

yon

Alps,

when storms rush

forth.

Defies the blast, as their immortal sires

Defied of yore the inquisitorial

firea.

MS.

VALLEYS OF DAUPHINY.
"We now take leave of Piedmont, and crossing tlie Mont-Genevre, enter
upon that portion of Dauphiny, which, from having been the scene of Felix
Neff's regenerating labours in the cause of true religion, has been emphatically

the Pays de Neff, or Valleys of Queyras and Freissinieres.

Of these
Val-Queyras communicates directly with the "Waldenses of Piedmont, by the

named

of his works.

the

new

form

Dr. Gilly has just returned from the Valleys, where he was invited to assist at the
opening of
La Tour, already mentioned, which, having risen mainly under his own fostering hand, will

college at

his noblest

monument.

THE WALDENSES.

172

Col-de-la-Croix, and extends from the base of

Monte Viso on

Mont Dauphin on

whole course of the

It comprises the

the north.

the south, to
river Guil,

with the lateral glens which follow the course of the mountain torrents, and

The western

forms the eastern quarter of the section of Arvieux.*

of the section consists of the Valley of Freissinieres,f and

its

quarter

hamlets, Chancellas,

Pallon, Violins, Minsas, and Dormeilleuse, or Dormilhouse, which occupy the

banks of the Biaise, a tributary torrent of the Dui-ance, and of the commune
But,
of Champsaur, separated from Freissinieres by a mountain and glacier.

between the

valleys of

Freissinieres, there

Piedmont, already described, and those of Queyras and

this

is

difference

the former, says Dr. Gilly, are for the

most part smiling with verdure and foliage, the latter are dark and sterile.
In each, alp rises above alp; and piles of rock, appalling in aspect, block up

many of the defUes, and forbid any further advance

The Piedmontese Valleys, on the other hand, form

to the boldest adventurer.

a garden, with deserts, as

were, in view: some of them, indeed, are barren and repulsive, but these

it

are exceptions.

On

the tottering

cliffs,

in the alpine retreats of the

the contrary,

testants, fertility is the exception,

and barrenness the common

French Pro-

aspect.

There,

the sombre and frowning rocks, which, from their fatiguing

continuity, look like

a mournful

veil whicli is

never to be raised

and the tremen-

dous abysses, and the comfortless cottages, and the ever-present dangers from
proclaim that this is a land which man
avalanches, and thick mists, and clouds

never would have chosen, even for his hiding-place,

unless fi-om the direst

necessity.

To

arrive at these Valleys,

Fenestrelles, Sestrieres

^ve

proceed by the great military road through

and Cesanne, over Mont Genevre, the Mons Janus of

antiquity, and that part of the Cottian Alps which, from time immemorial, has
been a channel of communication between France and Italy. It is now the
great thoroughfare betwixt Piedmont and Daupliiny, and, in its admirably

constructed route, adds another trophy to the reign of Napoleon.

elevated than the passes of

the

same

skill,

and forms,

Mont
in

Cenis and the Simplon,

every respect,
commune

a fitting

Though

less

managed with
companion for these
it is

its hamlets La Chalp and

BaUNiCHARn and in the commune of Molines, and its hamlets San Veran, Pierre Grosse, and FousiLLARDE. They have a church at Arvieux, one at St. Veran, and another at Fousillarde, as will be seen.

The Protestant

families dwell principally in the

of Arvieux, and

t In the Val-Freissinieres, there are two Protestant churches, one at Violin*, another at Dormeilleuse,
and, in the commune of Champsaur, a third at St. Laurent. Besides these two principal groups of Protestant villages, there are two outlying branches of the section, that of
or twenty from Ar\'ieux

and

that of

lestre (Guil-extra) or thirty-three miles

Parish.

La Grave, beyond
from

tlie

Vars eight

miles south of Guillestre,

Brianfon, and twenty one miles north of Guil-

minister's residence

See Dr. GiiLv's " Extent of Neff's

MONT GENEVRE.
The

unparalleled undertakings.

sand

feet,

English measure

CESAXNE.

highest part of the route

173
is

only about six thou-

a considerable advantage, when compared with the

which may be added, the additional recom-

other great passes of the Alps;

to

mendation of being protected

in some measure from the violence of the north

This magnificent route was commenced in the year 1802, under the
immediate direction of Ladoucette, prefect of the High Alps. Eighteen com-

wind.

munes around Brian5on, joined by the soldiers of the garrison, set actively to
work and to them is owing the rapid completion of an enterprise which has
added one more lasting monument to that extraordinary era.
In order to
;

perpetuate the opening of the

new

thoroughfare between Italy

and Spain

route, which the

" Route

government named the great

d'Espagne en Italie" the

authorities of the department caused a lofty obelisk to be erected on the fi-ontier

between Piedmont and France. Under the first stone was deposited a
leaden box, the material of which had lain buried during fourteen centuries
in the plain of Mons Seleucus and in this were enclosed the various documents
line

commencement, completion, and opening of the route. To o-ive

to this ceremony all possible tclat, a brilliant fete was celebrated on the occasion, and a medal* struck in commemoration of the event. The obelisk is twenty
relating to the

metres in height, in a severe style, and skilfully executed. At its base it was
intended to have united the waters of the Durance, and the Dora Riparia, both of
which have their sources near the same spot on the Genevre the latter directing
;

its

course to the Po, and the former to the Rhone.

stance,

In allusion to

this circum-

the opposite characters and destination of these two risers

expressed in the following lines

'

Adieu, done,

ma

sffiur la

Durance

Nous nous se'parons sur ce mont

Toi, tu vas ravager la France,
Je

When

(GenevTe.)

vais fdconder le Pie'mont."

the Austro-Sardinian

pains to destroy

are well

army crossed the Genevref

in 1815, they

were at

the inscriptions on this obelisk, which had been composed

by the institute of France, and cut at Turin on slabs of black marble from
all

The medallion on one side bnre the head of Napoleon, encircled

with these words " A Napoleon
Bonaparte, I'empereur et le heros des Fraiifuis ;" and on the reverse, " Le Monl-Genevre ouvert
22 perm.
(i.e. 12th April, 1804); surrounded by "J. C. F. Ladoucette, Prifet, au
nam du departemenl des
Ilautes Alpes."
:

an. VII."

t On

army from Italy, five hundred of the latter repulsed three thousand SarMont Genevie. In 1814, when the great routes by Mont Cenis and the Simplon
army, the French government kept up its intercourse with Italy by this route
exclusively and, in the following year, Grcnier marched into France by the Genevre, with an army of forty
thousand men
For a full description of Mont Genevre, see Brockedons classical work, " Passes
OF THE Ai.rs;" to which will shortly be added, " The Minor Passes."
the retreat of the French

dinian troops on the plain of

were cut

oft'
;

by the

allied

Y Y

THE WALDENSES.

171

On

Como.

the side of the mountain, a fountain was also erected of the same

material as the obelisk, with an abundant supply of the finest water

but here,
been effaced by some zealous legitimist, lest " some
as Mr. Brockeden observes, " should bless the name of
;

too, the inscription has

traveller,"

thirsty

Napoleon."

The

Mont Genevre from Cesanne

ascent of

and then terminates

Here the dauphin, Humbert

the

hospice

first

but

this

II.,*

continues for about three miles,

on the summit, where the bourg

in a small plain

who took

the

title

situated.

is

of Prince of Brianjon, built

having long fallen into ruin, permission was granted

under the late empire, for constructing a monastery of Trappists, which, unfor-

was abandoned in consequence of political changes. It still continued

be served, however, by individuals belonging to various monastic orders

tunately,
to

more confided

and, in 1831, was once

present director, whose duty

to the

management of Abbe Blanc, the

who arrives, and iifford

to receive every traveller

is

such relief as the circumstances of his guest

may

The buikUng

require.

in

is

very tolerable condition, and affords humble but extensive accommodation for

Although exceedingly cold

the reception of travellers.

bourg

in winter, this

is

inhabited throughout the year.

Briangon, according to Pliny, was founded by a colony of Greeks

been expelled from

attributed

their settlements near the lake of

foundation to Brennus.

its

place; and as such

noticed by

is

remote period have been discovered

Roman

such

who had

while others have

earliest date a fortified

garrison.f

Various

as bas-reliefs,

the

name

of

relics of that

and medals of the

Ambrose had halted vi'hen the

emperor Valens, whom he was on his way to baptize at Vienne

emperors.

death of the
in

was from the

Ammianus MarceUinus, under

Virgantia Castellum, the station of a

Roman

It

Como

It

was in

this fortress that St.

Dauphiny, was announced to

liim.

It appears,

that BrigantiumJ was an

exception to the general destruction which marked the route of barbarian armies,
as

the

no mention
fall

of the

is

made

of

Roman

formidable ramparts, were

was only with

its

own

its

having suffered in any of their irruptions.

empire, the natural strength of

still

suflicient to

maintain

its

its

position,

On

and

independence; and

its
it

free consent that this alpine republic submitted to the

* All the ancient documents respecting

Mont Genevre were unfortunately

destroyed in

17113,

wlien the

was burnt by Victor Amadeus, in his expedition against Brianfon.

' Built on a
Castle of Brian9on is thus described in the Liber Compendii Antiquorum, a.d. 1339.
very lofty mountain, with a vast donjon tower, the whole one hundred and twenty fathoms in length, fortified
with twenty walls. In the centre of the Rreat keep, is a st|uare tower, twelve fathoms in height, twenty-four
in circuit, and three in thickness being, moreover, surrounded by the Durance and the mountain.''
village

t The

t 3ri(/anlinm

Ficitm, Strabo.

Brignnlion, Ptolemy.

Brignnlio, Atticus.

&

.K

.1

BRIAN90N. FKEISSINILRES.
standard formerly bore the device " Petite
PIEDMONT.

Daupliins.

Small
At

Its

war of that period.

ing century

It suffered

we have

in which, as

is

Alps were

feet, is

is

preserved this ancient

still

Conjugi"

Many

in

other

to the

flashing

and sixty-eight

up

feet.

the chief fortress of the French Alps, and the key to Piedmont.

Embrun

Until the forts were built in 172.2, the

had

Tlie arch, forming

Durance are seen

through the dark ravine, at a depth of one hundi'ed

BRIAN90N

In the present day,

communicates by means

thrown from one precipice

and, far below, the foaming waters of the

it

very bold undertaking.

hundred and twenty

a span of one

disasters in the follow-

and military documents

lost.

protected by seven forts, with which

of a bridge, constructed in 1730

other

Brianon was partly burnt in the

by two similar

stated, all the civil

relating to the history of the Cottian

the town

grand renom."

but great in renown.

in size,

the close of the sixteenth century,

religious

175

ville,

inscription:

was then demolished,

gate, whieli

"

Corneliffi

Saloninte

Augustas

honour, probably, of the wife of Gallienus, mother of Saloninus.

relics

antiquity of the

and

place,

have been found

inscriptions

and

its

all

corroborating the

occupation by the troops of

Rome

which

now in the museum at Gap. Brian9on has had the honour to produce
many persons who have reached high distinction in various departments of the
are

but

state,

whom

The population

the limits of the present

at present

amounts

to

work

will not suffer us to particularize.*

about three thousand; the streets are

straight, slightly inclining to the river,

and enlivened with fountains.

houses are built in the modern taste.

The

Ou

Most of
is

the

the church.

we foUow the course of the Durance, and proceed to

The Durance, of which so frightful a picture f has been drawn

leaving Brian^on,

Freissiniere.

Voltiire, in his history of

difftet,

chief architectural object

Louis XV., has recorded the magnanimous and devoted conduct of M. D'Au-

lieutenant of the fortress of Briani;on, who, after the defeat at ExiUes in 1747, sold his plate to assist

the hospitals in furnishing relief to the necessities of the wounded.

cause of humanity than her husband

sonal cares

and

in the discharge

anxieties,

His

wife,

no

less

soldiers'

Ductoris vexavit

iter

namque Alpibus

ortus

Avulsas omos, et adesi fragmina mentis

sonitu volvens, fertur latrantibus undis

Cum

translato

mutat

fallacia eursii,

Non

perditi fidus, patulis non puppibus aequus

Et tunc, imbre recens fuso, correpta sub armis.
Corpora nnilta virum spumanti vertice torquens

Immersit fundo

hiceris

deformia membris."
A'i7.

all per-

wounds, and died, we lament to add,

of her pious office.

t " Jamque Tricastinis intendit finibus agmen
.fam faciles campos, jam rura Vocuntia carpit.
Turbidus hie truncis, saxisque Dri'ENtia Itetum

Ac vada

devoted to the sacred

although in hourly expectation of becoming a motherforgot

and with her own hands dressed the

/to/, lib.

iii.

v.4il(;.

THE WALDENSES.

176
in the passage of

takes

its rise

Hannibal, divides the territory of Briancon into equal parts,

on the

Gene\Te, and

col of the

Dru-ance from the abundance of

supposed to derive

is

Much

waters.

its

name

its

has been effected in modern

times to check the inundations to which this torrent gave

By

rise.

the genius

and unremitting labour of public spirited individuals, and the sanction of government, a vast quantity of useful land has been reclaimed from

Embankments have been

devastations.

its

raised, canals dug, the cliaimel deepened,

and innumer-

able methods employed to confine the torrent, which, from having

been for

ages the most dreadful scourge of these valleys, has been comparatively tamed

down

making " the green herb

to the purposes of irrigation,

where

to spring,"

formerly deposited masses of gravel and debris.

it

Of

these regions, says

all

and wild.
ably poor.

They

wear during the day.

Of

rough stone, with

They

lie

its

is

the most repulsive

inhabitants most lament-

no linen in use, either

same clothes which they

sleep in the

the seven villages which they inhabit, the houses are

and cemented with mud.

flat roofs,

the people and their cattle live together

from

Freissiniere

are clothed in sheep-skins, and have

garments or their beds.

for their

built of

De Thou, Val

and unproductive, and

Its soil is sterile

In these hovels

when they apprehend an

and,

concealed themselves, and secure their cattle in the other.

chiefly

on milk and venison, and pass their days in tending their

are skilful

marksmen, and seldom miss

They

subsist

cattle.

They
Happy

either the chamois or the bear.

in these their scanty resources, they are

all

attack

one corner of which they

their enemies, they often take refuge in caves, in

equally poor; but they have no

mendicants among them, and, contented among themselves, very seldom form
either

friendships

or connexions

misery and uncouth appearance.

with others.
It

is

being uncultivated in their morals.

able to express themselves very legibly

as

much

to sing

In

all

this

state of squalid

surprising that these people are far from

They almost

all

understand Latin, and are

in writing.

They understand,

also,

of French as enables them to read their Bibles in that language, and

psalms

nor would you easily find a boy among them who,

questioned as to the religious opinions which they hold in

if

he were

common with

the

Waldenses, would not be able to give from memory a reasonable account of

them.

an

They pay

article

taxes most scrupulously; and the duty of doing this forms

of their confession of

making payment, they

faith.

If they are prevented

lay apart the proper sum, and,

by

civil

wars from

on the return of peace,

take care to settle with the king's tax-gatherers.

Such

is

the account given of this people by the Catholic historian

Thuani Historia, Ub.

xxvii.

De Thou*

in

PAYS-DE-NEFF.

177

-VAL-LOUISE.

the sixteenth century, and such was their condition in the nineteenth,

Neff took up

his abode

amongst them, and devoted

when FeHx

moral and

his life to their

social

The same author's description of the local position of the inha" As we proceed," says he, " towards
bitants is laid down with equal precision.
the east from Embrun,* capital of the maritime Alps, and have travelled about
advancement.

Valley of Queyras branches off towards the right, and that of

five leagues, the

Freissinieres (Vallis Fraxinaria) towards the

of the ancient town of

Ramaf

are

still

Between these two, the ruins

left.

From

conspicuous.

theuce, on the other

mountain ridge, a narrow pass is hewn out of the rock by dint of

human labour, and opens a way across some difficult and rugged country, which
In the direction towards Brianyon,
is still called by the natives, Hdnnihars Road.
side of the

there

another valley opening to the

is

who gave

it

his

own name

which he had so cruelly

lation of Val-Pute,

inflicted

which

it

called Louise,

left,

moment

in

upon

it,

from Louis XIL,

of compunction for

the

injuries

instead of the contumelious appel-

had received in contempt

for the rehgion of its

inhabitants.''^

of

In this alpine wilderness, so feelingly depicted by Dr. Gilly in his memoir

FeUx Neff, dwell those primitive Christians, miraculously preserved through

innumerable persecutions, and justly considered as the lineal and unmixed

To Val-Louise, the valley
descendants of the first converts to the true faith.
just mentioned,

we

briefly revert

on our way to

Freissinieres, with

which the

more expressly connected. Val-Louise, or Valley of Gyronde, so

called from the torrent Gy, was the theatre of one of the most revolting massacres
ever recorded in history, and which is corroborated in all its worst featui-es by
work

in

hand

is

"

the concurrent testimony of both Catholic and Protestant writers.

When

king's lieutenant," says Perrin, " arrived with his troops in this Valley,

of the inhabitants were to be fomid

had

for they

on the high mountains, carrying with them their

little

they could transport thither for the support of

life.

retreat, the lieutenant ordered a great quantity of

the

none

all retired into the caverns

ones,

and

all

the provisions

Ha-sdng discovered their

wood

to

be piled up at the

mouth of the entrance to these caverns, and set on fire, in order to burn or
smoke them out. During the appalling scene which followed, some of the unhappy
victims, in attempting to escape

from the flames, were thrust through with the

by which we are now conducting the reader.

St.-Palude d'Embrun
de passage et de relai au compte du gouvernement remain
dans le sixieme siecle. Au douzieme, la Durance emportait une telle partie du territoire
Enfin dans le treiziSme, cette riviere ruina
de Rame que presque tous les habitants sen ^loignerent.
entierement la bourgade, oil il ne teste plus que Ics debris de la paroisse et le vieux chateau des dauphins.
*

That

Rama

is,

in the direction opposite to that

Stait

y consacra une

un

lieu

eglise

Ladoucette^ p. 350.

t Thuan.

Hist, lib.xxvii.

Gillv's " Neff,"

p. 81.

Lib.

i.

c. 3,

and Gilly,

p. 90.

Ilautes Alpes, 40.

THE WALDENSES.

178

sword; others threw tliemselves headlong on the rocks below; and many weie
After this awful scene had closed, and when search was made in

smothered.

the caverns, four hundred infants were found stifled in the arms of their dead

mothers
their

It is fully believed that three thousand persons

inhuman

were thus

by

sacrificed

In a word, the whole community was exterminated

persecutors.

from that time forward, the valley was peopled with new inhabitants,

so that,

among whom none

To

of the primitive race ever established themselves."

we annex

preceding account,

the

following,

from a

late Catholic

the

writer of

" In 1487," says he, " a great number of religious

acknowledged veracity.*

dissenters lay concealed, with provisions sufficient for

two years, in the spacious

cavern of Alle-froide, or Pelvoux, a mountain in Val-Pute, which the snows

and precipices by which

however,

it is

means of ropes

The wretched

to the

mouth

and four himdred

soldiers

of the cave, where their

victims were either stifled with

murdered without

Here,

surrounded appeared to render inaccessible.

they were discovered

smoke

distinction of age or sex, or,

were lowered by

work of murder began.

in the recesses of the cave,

throwing themselves headlong

The place of the massacre is

La Baume des Vaudois ;" and the

in despair-, perished at the foot of the rocks.

memory

in

itself,

its

of the horrid deed, called "

" Chapelue," because the hats of the victims were there

projecting shrubs.

circumstances, are

still

left

hanging

to

Traces of other habitations, resorted to under similar

" Jetons un voile epais," says our author,
observable.

" sur cet exces de barbaric; rappelons plutot que Louis XII, ayant

Vaudois

still,

rock

Us sont meilleurs chrctiens que nous

dit des

repeupler ce canton, auquel

fit

donna le nom de Val-Louise."jLa Roche, and crossing the Durance by

la reconnaissance puhlique

After passing through

bridge, the ascent to the Val-Freissinieres begins.

abruptly from the river, that, at

ticable

mode

first sight,

there

is

no appearance of any prac-

of advancing; but the eye presently discerns a shepherd's path,

which creeps up the mountain in an oblique direction.

rugged ground
of thunder.

a long timber

steep acclivity rises so

to a defile,

On

Tliis leads over

some

through which a rocky torrent rushes with the noise

each side of these wild waters, which roar and fling their spray

about in clouds, there are groups of cottages, and an alpine bridge, with a
These, with the back-ground of rocks, form as complete a
cascade above it.
picture of mountain
village to

life as

the imagination can require.

be noticed hereafter

* Ladoucette, late Prefect of the

+ Tins Valley has

and

This

Pallon the
is

High Alps.

the honour of being the birth-place of Peter de Brays, so well

history.

" Noff" for the

J See GiLLV's

is

the torrent called the RimasseJ (Biaisse)

full description.

known

in

Waldensian

LA ROCHE.
the

gmde

is

Minsas

The next

the valley.

to

Freissiiiieres

I-REISSINIERES.

DOKWILIIOUSE.

village,

at

is

Violins

is

two miles farther

and then comes the toilsome, rough, and clambering route of three

Between the two

miles to Dormilhouse.
lovely fertile vale,

villages

named, " there

first

and

fruit-trees.

But

soon changes.

this cheerful prospect

After passing through IMinsas, the face of the country

is

and producing

enclosed on each side by steep mountains,

several kinds of grain

perfectly savage and

is

Blocks of stone, detached from the overhanging rocks, strew the

appalluig.

ground, and threaten to impede

all

fuilher progress.

Here and there some

ness are fewer and fewer.

bespeali the poor resources of the inhabitants

this desert;

vulture's

league,

of a

the distance

and about another league farther up

179

and the occasional track of the

wing overhead,

The Valley

who

tell

are

its

The

signs of productive-

thin patches of rye, or oats,

who have been

wolt,

driven up into

and the heavy

flap

of the

proper natives."*

of Freissinieres begins at the col of the same name, and joins the

Valley of the Durance at a considerable elevation above the ancient town of

Wliile the latter town existed, the Durance washed

Rama, abeady mentioned.

the base of the mountains opposite, as various circumstances

The

valley consists of a sandy clay

bination which, in some

climate.

sen'e to prove.

some time a gradual

It begins in a plain, continues for

then rapidly descends.

still

mixed with calcareous substance

parts, favours the ordinary productions of

The

chief village

is

Freissinieres,

a com-

an alpine

declivity,

and

place anciently

frequented by the Saracens, and near which gold has been found.

Dormilhouse, second to the former, and foimded originally by

literally perched upon a rock, full two hundred metres in
perpendicular height.
The only way to this sanctuary is by a narrow footpath,

The

tillage of

the Lombards,

is

winding along frightful precipices, which the traveller contemplates with feelings
of surprise and astonishment.
cipitates

About the middle of the mountain,

with thundering noise over the

itself

traveller's

head,

a river pre-

who

is

only

preserved from being drenched, by passing within the arch described by the

water as

it

bounds from the rock, twelve hundred

feet

above him.

This the

reader will perfectly comprehend by reference to the annexed engra\dng.

body of water, which

falls

like

The

a curtain between the spectator's eye and the

It was through these chilling scenes that Neff made his pastoral visitation on the last day of January, in
the very depth of its dreary winter. But, amidst the freezing blasts which met him, and the frowning aspect
of external nature, " he had that ivithin him which warmed his heart and animated his spirits as he peneHis
trated through the pathless snows of tlie defile, and crossed the raw gusty summit that lay in his way.

was a labour of love he was on his wiy to preach that Word, of which the ancient fathers ot Dormeilleuse
had been the depositaries for ages, when France rejected it and to trim the lamp which had here been left
when the rest of the land was overwhelmed in darkness." Gi%, Memoirs of Neff, p. 134.
;

burning,

THE WALDENSES.
presents the appearance of a vast cloud saturated with rain, through

light,

which the dazzling hues of the rainbow are seen dancing before his eyes. Across
the snowy sheet of water which covers the mountain's side, he looks in vain for

He

the road which he had pursued.

by the

abyss, scooped out

foam, and vanishing

force of

among

its

only sees the river plunging

own

many

spend their days in peace.

catch a glimpse

by some pleasing,

so apparently exempted from

whom

most of

inliabitants,

we

painful, relieved

In this alpine solitude-

those violent passions which agitate and

hundred

into an

the rocks.

of those rude habitations with which so

recollections are associated.

down

then boiling along covered with

length the dreary precincts of Dormilhouse open, and

At

all

fall,

The

afflict

the external world

about two

are entire strangers to every other country,

river,

which forms the magnificent cascade just

noticed, waters their little fields ;* and, in a small plain, covered during seven

months of

tlie

year with snow, supplies the occasional luxury of a dish of trout.

The

only crops which ripen in this frozen region, are rye, and a

both

of inferior quality,

and almost

unfit for use.

species of fniit-tree, yield a few kitchen roots

and homely

for the coarse

articles of

little

wheat,

Their gardens, void of every

and vegetables

and a

Httle

hemp

Pine-trees, the remnants

domestic use.

of primeval forests, are the only trees which afford them shade during the heat
of summer, supply fuel during the long di-eary winters in vvMch they are shut

up

in their valleys,

of the mountains,
their

numerous

facturing from

and timber

tlie

for their

Along the

rude habitations.

flanks

tops of which are covered with eternal snow, they feed

flocks, living

the wool

on

flesh

and the produce of the

a coarse cloth,

primitive village, the use of keys and bolts

inhabitants savour of another age

and

all

which serves
is

unknown.

daii-y,

and manu-

apparel.

In this

The manners

of the

for

property rests securely under the

safeguard of upright principle.

The following extract ficim the French work of M. LaJoucette, shows how much was accomplished by
Neff, to soften the natural sterility of the place, aud improve their condition, as well as to ameliorate and
expand the minds and intellects of the people. This testimony in favour of the excellent pastor is particiJarly
" En 1823," says the
Viduable, as coming from one who did not at all participate in his religious sentiments.
prefect, " on n'^tait plus en usage d'an-oser la prairie de Dormilhouse dont les anciens canaux avaient e'te
combles par les ravins et les avalanches quelques particuliers s'opposaient a leur retablissement. Neff
convoque les habitans, se met a leur t^te les uns creusent a plus d'une toise, au travers des lits rocailleux des
plusieurs torrens les autres fleveiit des digues de huit pieds de hauteur en deux ou trois jours des canaux
abondans viennent fertiliser la prairie. La mine ouvre un passage a travers le roc granitique on construit
de profonds aqueducs; I'eau accourt et alimente trois foutaines publiques. II est dou.v" concludes this
impartial writer, " il est doux de parler de la s'wces de cet homme modesle dont le nam doit vivre a jamais daiis
la Vallee reconnaissante."
For a more fuU account of this, the reader is again referred to " Gilly's Memoir,"
;

chap.

xi.

Hist, d Italic,

tome

iv.

Fautin De-io loarjs.

Topo^Taphie des Hautes Alpes.

Taris, 1G^4.

^'CS

zO^aO

^'

APPROACH TO DORMILHOUSE.

The rock on which Dormilhouse

finest

stands

is

181

abiiost inaccessible even in the

months of the year.

difficult,

fi-om

path in

its

the

There is but one approach to it, and that is always

steepness of the ascent, and the slippery nature
of the

narrowest part, where, as stated,

In winter

cascade.

it

wretched village

is

it

is

continually watered by a

must be doubly hazardous, because

Of

accumulation of ice.*

the habitable spots,

all

the most repulsive.

perhaps,

Here Natui'e

is

it

then leaves' an
in Europe, this

stern

and

terrible,

without offering any boon but that of personal security fi-om the fiiry
of the
oppressor to invite man to make it his resting-place.
When the sun

shines

brightest, the side of the

level, is

covered with snow

mountain opposite to Dormilhouse, and on the same

and the traveller, in search of new scenes to gi-atify
;

his taste for the sublime or the beautiful, finds nothing to

repay liim for his

pilgrimage, but the satisfaction of planting his foot on that soil

which has been
hallowed as the asylum of Christians, " of whom the world was
not

worthy."

The
is,

spot which they and their descendants have chosen for their
last stronghold

indeed, a very citadel of strength.f

The

of fascination.
rock.

village

is

It is not like Forsyth's

a wall."

But the eye wanders in vain for any point

not built on the summit or on the shelf of the
description of Cortona A picture hung upon

It does not stand forth in bold reUef,

intruder as he approaches.

and then

it

It is not even seen

disappoints expectation

by

its

mean

and
till

fling defiance

the upper pass

upon the
is

cleared,

disclosure of a few poor huts,

detached fi-om each other, without any one building as an object

of attraction,
or any strongly

marked

there any view which

it

feature to give a character to the scene.

commands to make up for this

Thus the eye has no enjoyment

Neither

defect in itself;

is

all is

cold, forlorn, cheerless.

in gazing on the dark
waste; but the imagination roves with holy transport over wilds which
have
sheltered the brave and the good from the storm of man's oppression a thousand

times more to be dreaded than that of the elements.

spell

But
him

thrown over the mind

for

it is

Hence the

irresistible

a place of fearful and singular interest.

great must have been the love which filled the pastor's bosom, to make
prefer this worse than wilderness this concentration of man's wretchedness
still,

to all the other

hamlets of his parish. J

He

tiurned fi-om the inviting Arvieux,

* Yet, along this perilous road, Neff thus describes a party of his flock descending
from Dormilhouse at
" At ten o'clock," says he, " most of my hearers retired those who had come from the greatest
distance having brought wisps of straw with them, which they lighted to guide them through the snow.

midnight

Some

stopped

till

midnight

we then took a

slight repast,

league to return home, set out with pine-torches, indifferent

What a picture
t

Gilly,

Mem.

Felix Neff.

Ibid. ch.

vi.

3 A

and two of them, who had three-quarters of a

to the ice and snow which lay on their path P'

"

THE WALDENSES.

18^

and the

affectionate hospitality of St.

make

Vars, to

chief residence

his

Veran, and the magnificent grandeur of

in

and gloomy Dormilhouse,

the bleak

because there his services appeared to be most required; because there he

had every thing

life

was a

creatures,

to teach,

sacrifice

and

to

But

even to the planting of a potato.*

he lived

be a labourer

for

his

in the service

of his Redeemer.

-j-

A few extracts

from Neff's journal will exhibit the pastor's own sketch of the place
milliouse
six

is

whole

nothing else than to be useful to his fellow-

celebrated for the resistance which

its

hundred years, have opposed to the church of Rome.

They

" Dor-

more than

inhabitants, for

are of the

unmixed race of the ancient Waldenses of Dauphiny, a distinct branch of the

primitive church of Gaul, and never bowed a knee before an idol, even when all
The ruins of the walls
the Protestants of Val-Queyras dissembled their faith.
remain, which they built to protect them against surprise.

and

forts still

owe

their preservation in part to the nature of their country,

inaccessible, being

The population

defended by a natural

fortification of glaciers

of the village consists of forty families,

all

which

is

They
almost

and wild rocks.

Protestants."

"

The

aspect of this desert," continues Neff, " both terrible and sublime, which served
as the

asylum of truth when almost

lection of the faithful martyrs of old

to read the Bible in secret,

difficult to describe.".
visits

and when, in

his

soul, and to inspire

they retired

it

and

with sentiments

Henry Laget paid them some

them that ' they would see his

some years since

last address,

he told

using one of those beautiful figures of

seemed
a gust of wind had
with which their dialect abounds

no more,'

speech

." It is

the world lay in darkness the recol-

to worship the Father of Light in spirit

every thing tends to elevate my

in truth

face

and

all

the deep caverns into which

'

it

seemed,' said they

'

as if

it

extinguished the torch which was to light us in our passage by night across
the precipice

On

the

!'

morning of Tuesday, February

of Dormilhouse.

mountain side at
were tapestried.

Owing

3,

Neff preached

in

the church

to the magnificent cascades, before mentioned, the

this season was a sheet of ice, with which all the rocks also
" In the morning before sermon," he continues, " I took some

young men with me, and we cut

steps in the ice with our hatchets, to render

the passage less dangerous, so that our friends from the lower hamlets might

mount

to

Dormilhouse with

less fear of accident.

There was a large congre-

* " NefF voulut propager la culture des pommes-de-terre ; et pour joindre Texemple au pr^cepte il en avait
dans son jardin dA'rvieux. II allait dans les champs de Freissinieres montrer sa mdthode, qui plusieurs ont
adopts, et qui, chaque ann^e, s'etend comme n'Stant pas bornde a la trop courte carriere de Texcellent pasteur,
qui mettait toujours au premier rang les pi-(?dications, les visites et les travaux de son ministere."
+ Gitty, Mem. Neff, chap. vi. p. 138.

Ladoucetle.

CHURCH AND SCHOOL.

DORMILIIOUSE.

In the afternoon I catecliised in a stable, or

gatioii.

from below remained

my

night,

all

18.1

Several people

cattle-slied.

and therefore I took the opportunity of pursuing

and the next day was spent in like manner."
;

instructions in the evening

Thursday morning was devoted

to similar exercises of devotion

and then he descended towards the lower

elder catechumens,

who

shall close this picture

and instruction

with about a dozen of his

him

persisted in accompanying

might be present at the lecture

We

valley,

to Minsas, that they

there.

wth

the following extracts, which show, on the

" Thanks
testimony of NeiF himself, the horrors of a winter in Dormilhouse.
to the generosity of my friends," he writes, " our little school
{see the engraving)

all

now

is

floored and glazed.

The benches and

seats are finished

and while

the other schools in this country are held in damp, dark stables, where the

scholars

are stifled with smoke, and interrupted

by the babble of people and

the noise of the cattle, and are obliged to be constantly quarrelling with the kids

and fowls

in defence of their copy-books, or shifting their position to avoid the

drippings from the roof,

am

we have

here a comfortable and well-wanned apartment.

again," he continues, " conducting a school* for the education of those

it will be to educate others, and who now consist of about
men from the diiferent villages. "We are buried in snow more
deep.
At this moment a terrible hurricane is raging, which

whose business
twenty young
than four feet

We

dashes the snow about in clouds.

know not when my

and have been

sides,

all

Sunday evening, our

home

after the

Had

taken place one

into a very

this region.f

midst of

also

The avalanches

narrow

defile,

moment

and

fell

it

must have swept one of

and have thus destroyed the flower of the

But the Eternal, who

rules over the waves of the sea,

peril.

The

villages,"

liis

children

in the

he adds, " are every where menaced wdth

.On several occasions lately, I

have seen even our calm and

In

daring Alpines express their anxiety on this head.

One

between two groups of people.

sooner or later,

the waves of ice and snow, and protects

impending danger.

de

threaten us on

and many of the inhabitants, were returning

the parties into the abyss below,

commands

especially about Dormilhouse.

sermon at Violins, when they very narrowly escaped an avalanche.

down

youth of

thick,

falling

students,

It rolled
this

can hardly put a foot out of door, and

letter will reach you.

fact,

there are very few

" Neff ouvrit et dirigea lui-meme une ^cole, oil il donnait quatorze ou quinze-keures de le90ns par jour,
mauvaise saison, sur la lecture, recritviro, I'iirithmetique, la geogvaphie, le chant sacre, et aux plus

la

avanc^s, sur la ge'ometrie et la physique."

Ladoucelle, p. 340.

NeiT's Letters. Previously to this, NefF had himself narrowly escaped.

avalanche, he traversed a debris of rock, wliere his foot slipped, and

effects

were long

felt.

lie

To

avoid the danger of an

sprained his knee so badly, that the

THE WALDENSES.

184

habitations in these parts which are not liable to be swept

away

for there is not

a spot in this narrow corner of the Valley which can be considered absolutely

But, terrible as their situation

safe.

accessible,

We

Val-Louise."

now

it

they owe their religion, and,

been more secure and

their country

exterminated,

been

have

would

they

to

is,

Had

perhaps, their physical existence.

the

like

inhabitants

of

retrace our steps to the Guil.

Pallon was in ancient times a mandement, comprehending the parishes of

and La Roche, the co-seigneurs of which resided in

Freissinieres, Chancellas,

a tower, built on an uninhabitable part of the mountain.

and where the rocks

to

tlie

is

men might

thrown up

On

camp without

pitch their

is

more

fertile
is,

is

La

an army of ten or

The

difficulty.

bridge

than the rest of the valley, and even

" Here,"
is less piety here."

that there

who have

a good ear, and love music.

always an advantage to a minister to find such aid

that

"

Ville-\ieille,"

this plain

very romantic, and the rocks behind form a tremendous back-ground.

" Pallon," says Neff, "

This

" Cite

such as

L'Eguille," etc.

produces wine. The consequence

he adds, " are some young women

me

the village,

preserve the distinctive names given on that occasion

Le Chateau," "

twelve tliousand
of Pallon

still

fortifications

different

Citadelle," "

situated on the

is

From

ascend to the plain where Mareschal Catinat pitched his camp,

may

the traveller

It

which traverses the Val-Freissinieres.

Biaisse, the stream

we may hope

for

It is

and experience has taught

some degree of success when we have

in perfect accordance with the generally received opinion

help."

tliis

and in every

age religion has been cultivated by vocal and instrumental harmony.

Chancellas

is

situated

ground, along which

has a lake called

produces only a

its

Lac

little

between two mountains, and masked by some rising

territory extends,

Trouble,

rye, barley, oats,

passing along the road, the

new

and whence

it

from the niuddiness of

village

surrounded with meadows and orchards.

derives its name.

It

The

soil

its

water.

and vines of inferior quality.

Wliile

church produces an agreeable

Reotier, planted

upon a

effect,

lofty rock,

with a rapid descent to the Durance, yields nearly the same productions.*

La Roche,
is

so called

from the naked rocks against which the

village

is

built,

but a limited commune, partly occupied by a lake, which furnishes some

fish,

chiefly carp.

At

this village,

* " Chancellas," says Dr. Gilly, "

government has reconstructed the bridge

a lovely village at the entrance of the Val-Freissinieres, where the

mountains form a splendid panorama, whose vine-clad sides stretch on one side down to the Durance, and
where the little hamlets, divided by ravines and torrents, are seen rising out of forests of tall larch-trees.
This village was often the scene of triumph to Neff and his converts and the priests of that parish had the
mortification to see many of their flock fall away from them, and become proselytes to the powerful reasonis

ing of

tlie

Swigs preacher.

CHANCELLAS.

LA

The only

over the Durance.

ROCHE.

MONT

DAUPHIN.

185

thing, however, likelj- to interest the stranger,

is

the wild serrated chain of rocks, rising like tapering, obelisks defined in the dark

blue sky, and again reflected in the lake beneath.

It is altogether a striking

scene.

Mont Dauphin and

the Col de Vars* in the distance form magnificent features

This Valley commences at the confluence of the Durance and

in the landscape.

the Guil, and presents a succession of grand and imposing scenery.

fications of

fortress covers

lofty

Valleys, and on the Italian side

It is entirely

considered as one of the keys to France.

is

to the

It

The

This

individuals.

The

was only in 1753 that Mont

rank of a town, and united with

comprised within the walls of the

about four hundred

forti-

rock at the junction of the two rivers, commands four

barracks will accommodate about ten battalions.

Dauphin was raised

The

the celebrated Vauban, in 1694.

Mont Dauphin were begun by

the parish of Ej'gliers.

fortress,

-vvitli

a population of

district is peculiarly rich in walnut-trees

of immense size, more particularly one superb specimen which attracts the special

The

notice of the traveller as he ascends to the citadel.

plateau of the fort was

in former times called Mille-Vents, as expressive of the thousand winds to

it

Whoever he

who

be, says Ladoucette,

has a mind to witness a storm in

Mont Dauphin, and

fury and terror, should take his station at

it

which

was exposed.

bursts

its

cloudy barrier, striking the rocks

succession of echoes,

before

the

them the rocks and

all its

see the lightning, as

hear the thunder rolling away in a

winds blustering and roaring, as

firm-built walls of the citadel,

if

they would sweep

see the deluge of rain

converting the streets into canals, covering the esplanade and parade ground, and

thence rushing
It is at

terror

such a

down to
moment

and destruction

trees, covering their

swell the united torrents of the

Dmrance and the Guil.

as this that those rivers appear in

bearing

aU

their attributes of

along with them the roofs of cottages, uprooted

banks with the

spoil,

and

filling the valley

with the thunder

of their course.
Tlie Valley of the Guil, or Val-Queyras, contains a population of about eight

thousand.

It

is

traversed by the public road winding along the banks of the

impetuous Guil, which takes

between

Mont

originates.

through which they flow.

The

rise

near the famous subterranean passagef

Mont Viso on

the

first

Owing

furthest wit-post, to the south, of

ravaging, the latter fertilizing, the countries

to its great descent

NefTs

Po
Po perform

the south, where the

But, like the Dora and the Durance, the Guil and the

the most opposite functions

its

Crisso on the north, and

vr.st

pnrish.

in many places a succession

See

in a

former part of this work, p.

96.

THE WALDENSES.

186
of rapids

the Guil cannot be rendered of any service

mere channel through which timber may be

floated

to the country, unk-ss as a

down

to the Valley.

In the centre of the valley or pass of the Guil, the river appears struggling on
in the gloom of a continued gulf, flanked by walls of tremendous rocks, and

On

fringed with vsdld pines clinging to the dripping crevices of the rocks.

quit-

ting the hamlet of Veyer, which looks like an oasis in this Thebiiide, the gorge

commences the traveller passes under a rock which raises its threatening canopy
between him and the light. From this rock the fragments which are continually
;

but particularly after

falling,

render the pass imminently dangerous.

rain,

whole range of Alpine scenery, rich as

it is

In the

wonders of nature, there

in the

is

nothing, says Dr. Gilly, more terribly sublime than the pass of the Guil.

traveller would be amply repaid in visiting this region for the sole purpose of

exploring a
frontier,

which, in

defile,

and

is

Dauphin, and at the other by the

ravine

walk

defile,
;

by the strong works of Mont

Chateau-Queyras, whose guns sweep

fortress of

For several miles the waters of the Guil occupy the whole breadth

the pass.

of the

one of the keys to France, on the Italian

fact, is

therefore guarded at one end

which

is

more

like a chasm, or a vast rent in the mountain, than a

and the path, which

side

by

side, is

in

hewn out

some places

These

them look

that the soaring pinnacles which crown

masonry on the summit of a cathedral.

admit of more than two to

will not

of the rocks.

rise to

such a giddy height,

like the fine points of carved

Meantime, the projecting masses that

overhang the wayfarer's head are more stupendous and more menacing than the

Many

imagination can conceive.

what, and to be ready to
"

fall

Quos super
Imminet

of these seem to be hanging by you

know

atra silex

jam jam

lapsura, cadentique

assimilis."

these blocks have been so suspended for centuries, and

But perhaps

continue for centuries to come.

frequently rolling

down

and

Be

as the

that as

it

threatens to sweep you into the torrent below,

may

so

may, enormous firagments are

wind roars thi-ough the gloomy

you wonder what

it

is

defile,

and

that holds

together the terrible suspensions, and prevents your being crushed by their

Much

not

at the least concussion.

fall.

has been related of the peril of traversing a mountain path with a precipice

yawning beneath your

through a

feet

defile like this,

hundreds of
as this pass

feet of

is,

but, in fact, there

when you

is

no danger equal to a journey

are at the bottom of the alpine gulf, with

crumbling rock above your head.

and though at other times

it

Yet, terribly magnificent

must have made a powerful impres-

sion on Neff's mind, his journal does not contain a

word

either of its grandeur

THE
or

its terrors.

it

is

He

GUIL.

CHATEAU-QUEYRAS. ARVIEUX.
way through

forced his

it

187

in the middle of January,

notoriously unsafe to attempt the passage.

Travellers

lose

when

their

lives

here almost every year; but Neff's anxiety to enter upon his pastoral duty

was the strongest feeling that moved him, and,

thought of nothing but the

Of
idea

pass,

in such localities,

The

menacing the

pinnacles,

rolling

down

utter solitude

a sleepy horror through

opposite

where

On

" terribly grand

rocks shattered

;"

with their debris, which

is

incessantly

pines blackening the sunless course of the

all

defile

the

path insecure

conspiring to appal the traveller, and " send

his

blood

!"

At

a wooden bridge

the

the narrow path descends into the dismal gorge,

jxjculiarly savage,

is

traveller

bring the

by Mr. Baitlett are strongly charac-

through the depths of the

torrent, sullenly roaring

who can

only the talented artist

is

gigantic

the slopes

and precipitous
forth

it

points selected

of the pass, which he describes as

teristic

in the pass of the Guil, he

which was now before him.*

the accompanying drawings will convey the best and clearest

this
for,

scene into actual view.

into

field of usefulness

and even sublime.

issuing out of the depths of this defile,

Chateau-Queyras

\ie\v

the scene

built

on a

lofty projecting

and backed by the barrier wall of

alps,

cliflT

the frowning battlements of

on the edge of the torrent,

which towers like a biilwark of

ice

between the dominions of France and the king of Sardinia

present a picture

of the most striking magnificence.

to give

to

the

In the far distance are the snowy peaks of

scene.

dazzling white;
the simplest

Every thing combines

and,

in the fore-ground,

an interest

Mont

Viso, of

the rustic aqueducts, composed

manner of wooden troughs, supported on

lofty scaflTolding,

in

and

crossing and recrossing the narrow valley, wliich form a striking contrast between

the durability of the works of God's hands, the everlasting mountains, and the
perishable devices of men.

About a mUe and a

conducts to Arvieux;f

The

half from Chateau-Queyras, a rough road on the left

and here a

different prospect opens

signs of cultivation and of man's presence increase

snug looking cottages please the eye.

Here,

also,

is

Memoir of

for, in this glen,

as in all the others

vales

and

the Protestant church;

but the minister's residence, with that of the majority of

up the Valley

to the traveller.

some pretty

Ijis

flock, is

higher

where the remains of the

Neff.

t The natives uf Arvieux iire almost all Roman Catholics

those of La, Chalp and Brunichard are for the
m03t part Protestants. There were eighteen families in the latter, and eight In the former, who waited on
NetTs ministrj- and two families in a small hamlet between Arvieux and Chateau-Que^Tas were converted
from the Romish to the Protestant faith, hy the force of his reasoning and the consistency of his holy
;

life.Cillp.

THE WALDENSES.

188
primitive Christians

still

exist

as

in the Val-Freissinieres,

of Molines, Grosse Pierre, and Fousillarde

crept

by

up

Neff,

those

they are

to the furthest habitable pait of

at

is

who

La

directed

him

he

thither,

calls it

building, without any tiling to disting-uish

says Dr. Gilly,

The

it.

Chalp, a small hamlet beyond

was when

it

saw

it

but

pastoral dwelling occupied

but, following the custom of

Arvieux
it

and in the commune

invariably found to have

in his journals.

white front

its

but there was an

It

such,

a low

of cheerfulness

air

and standing in a warm sunny

in its situation, facing the south,

is

at least,

spot,

which

contrasted strongly with the dismal hovels of Dormilhouse, where he afterwards

spent most of the winter months.

It

was on Friday the 16th of January, 1824, continues

his able biographer, that

NefT established himself at La Chalp as the pastor of the section of Arvieux.

On

the

Monday

following,

we

find

him a second time within four days encoun-

tering the fearful pass of the Guil, and on the evening of the

twenty miles from Ai'vieux

his little flock at Vars,

after

Vars on the Tuesday and part of Wednesday, organizing

for

mutual instruction during his absence.

same week he was again

Saturday, in spite of a

fall

La

remained at
associations

little

On Thursday and

at his post at Arvieux,

catechising the children, and

same day looking

He

Friday in the

Chalp, and Brunichard,

making himself acquainted with his people. On

of snow and a storm of wind which swept the

Valley, he directed his steps towards St. Veran, that he might take the earliest

opportunity of administering the public Sunday service in the church, which

was
his

situated in the farthest western

boundaiy of his parish, twelve miles from

head quarters.

La

Neff's successor in the pastoral office of Arvieux, or rather

M. Ehrmann, an

excellent and

communicated by Mr.

particulars,

whom we

zealous pastor, of
Bartlett,

who had

very lately the pleasure

commenced, and the good man invited

his English

guest to share in the hospitalities of his humble cottage, which, from

been the residence of the pious NefT, presents to the pilgrim

attractions of a shijne.

duced
but

me

my

to his wife

" We went up

stairs into his best

host was very contented

and

ceremony, and we were speedily seated

I

cheerful.

its

having

the sanctifying

room, where he intro-

Running
;

to

the

and what pleased

stove,

he

his wife assisted without

at a plain frugal repast.

found the worthy pastor open-hearted,

without a shade of affectation

all

Every thing betokened narrow circumstances,

and mother.

put the finishing hand to the preparations for dinner

versation,

is

Meeting him on the way

of spending some time under his hospitable roof.

to Arvieux, an acquaintance

Chalp,

subjoin a few

sincere,

me much,

In his con-

and

religious,

not in the least

.fuhllshcd for

LA CHALP.

BRUNICHARD. REUNION.

loif

embarrassed in thus exhibiting to a stranger the poverty of his dwelling, which

was soon
papers

The spare and homely

of his welcome.
room was strongly contrasted with the number of books and

lost sight of in the heartiness

furniture of the

the

intellectual furniture with

" After dinner, he invited

me

to

which

was stored.

it

accompany him

to the afternoon

About

Brunichard, the highest hamlet in the Valley.

brought us to the straggling miserable hovels of which

One

composed.

tive Christians is

of these

we

door, a close foetid odour almost stifled me.

into

this little nest of primi-

entered

seemed

It

and, on opening the

as if

we were plunging
" Never mind

Cimmerian darkness, and I involuntarily shrunk back.

little

further

few steps"

we proceeded, my

the arm,

mulated manure and

litter.

my

said

meeting at

half an hour's walk

reverend conductor

me by

and, taking

feet sinking at every step into a sub-stratum of accu-

Here

the tinkling of bells and the breathing of cattle

soon explained the character of -the habitation; and presently

my

eyes becoming

and mangers occupied

more accustomed
by the cattle. At the extremity, a Rembrandt-like picture presented itself;
the half light struggled through a narrow smoke-blackened aperture upon the
to the light, I fairly discovered the stalls

squalid inhabitants of this hovel, grouped in a circle, and occupied in spimiing.

Their beds, .like berths in a ship's cabin, were ranged on either side; and I

was surprised

As

to observe that the ornamental details

soon as we became mutually

visible, the pastor,

were very tolerably carved.

who observed

the surprise

my

of the inmates on seeing a stranger, explained to them the object of

and proposed that we should

presently

adjourned.

all

meet

in a neighbouring cottage, to

visit,

which we
to be

Here the scene was one too remarkable ever

forgotten."

" The cottage chosen for the meeting, or reunion as it

is

called, presented nearly

the same features as the others, but was rather lighter.

towards the window

of honour, on broken stools, around him

the

The

pastor advanced

men occupied a few seats

peasants entered in groups, the men

Mr. Bartlett and some of the

eldest

ranging themselves on one side, and the females on the other, the latter bringing
in their

hands their

distaffs,

which they continued to ply

till

the

commencement

of the service, while the cattle, as in the other cottage, occupied the back ground
of this striking picture of alpine

life

and primitive worship." " I glanced

says Mr. Bartlett, " along the double

face divine
spirit.

;'

One

file,

but could discover

little

my

of the

'

eye,"

human

the majority were squalid in dress, vacant in look, and dejected in

or two of the youngest seemed

fulness of youth, as yet

still

to possess a little of the cheer-

unquenched by the hardness of

as a race, they appeared very inferior to the

their condition

Waldenses of Piedmont."

but,

THE WALDENSES.

190
All being

own

now

in their places, the pastor gave out a

hymn, and with

his

the most indifferent spectator there would

To

voice pitched the tune.

have been something touching in hearing the praise of God ascending from
It was solemn and that solemnity
the depths of this alpine wilderness.

was increased by
melody

associations, the

There was

shadows of former days.

little

but, in the tremulous voices of the aged, blending with the clearer
offspring, there

and softer notes of their

" Their
ordinary music.

was something beyond the power of

of labour and privation their youth, with

life

its

gleams of joy and love, hopes and fears their obscure graves their immortahty
all seemed to find a voice and expression, and to blend into something of

The hymn
undefined melancholy and yet not joyless, like their condition.
being concluded, the pastor selected a portion of Scripture, and gave it to one
He next offered up an extemporary prayer, and then
of the elders to read.
addressed his hearers in a short forcible exhortation.

many

such, but never listened to a

The

practical, address.

extremely touching.
slowly, again to

style

This

each as need might be.

ring every thing in

familiar, and, at the conclusion,

life

of

and industry which

toil

pastor,

who

is

only interrupted

inquired affection-

and troubles of the inmates, and advised and comforted

In

tlieir

have heard and read

and at the same time

gathering together of God's people departed

by the intervals of prayer and of needful rest."

Mr. Bartlett went into several cottages with the
ately into the little concerns

evangelical,

was simple and

little

resume that

more

all this

he had a peculiar and happy manner

refer-

earthly lot to the dispensations of an all-wise and

over-ruUng Providence, and ever inculcating by liis conversation and manner the
which he was called to preach. In the evening, several of these

principles

primitive villagers dropped in

at the

their inquiries.

he

"The

still

country, were particular in

love

spoke in

its

is

here embalmed

oiu- traveller,

humble chamber once occupied by that

as if

visit their

The memory of Neff and his labours of

" and as I lay down to sleep," says

in faithful hearts

and finding that his

pastor's fireside,

guest was an English traveller come to

" in the

faithful servant of the gospel,

I felt

solitude."

following morning, the pastor

made preparation

to start for St. Veran,

where he was to preach, and I gladly embraced the opportunity thus offered
His equipments for the journey were these : over his
to accompany him.
every-day
us

with

suit,

he wore a blouse

similar

to that

worn by farm-servants among

a large bag slung over his shoulder, containing his sacerdotal apparel,

and a supply of

New

Testaments and religious

tracts.

small bundle to carry, he immediately took hold of

it,

Seeing that I had a

and,

in spite of

my

^--rv"

THE PASTOR.

CHATEAU-QUEYRAS.

VEKAN.

ST.

arguments that each should bear his own burden, dropt

19]

into his sack, slung

it

the whole over his shoulder, and after taking an affectionate leave of his wife

and mother, turned round, and away we went.

The day was

with occasional showers, with intervals of sunshine

companion being hale and cheerful,

my

but

cloudy, attended

worthy guide and

his conversation shortened the

talked much, as will be readily supposed, of Felix Neff, whose

are so closely associated with

robust as he was on his

excessive fatigue of

plan

worthy man

that of

many

tigable,

the field of labour,

'

What

years of pleasing and useful labour before me.'

calls

'

economizing his strength,' would, nevertheless, exhaust

prime of

others, even in the

and that zeal

life

and health.

accompanied with unremitting

is

came

in sight of

large tree growing near the road side.

we

Neff,

at last, a victim to

'

to a
'

fell,

But such,' said my friend, is not my

my strength without neglecting my duty, and trust

mind and body.

many

that I have yet

this

every feature in these alpine recesses.

first arrival in

endeavour to economize

We

way.

and labours

life

my

Chateau-Queyras,* the pastor directed

'

His zeal

is

indefa-

When we

activity.

particular attention

Respecting this

tree,'

said he,

have a popular tradition in the country, that, during the persecution of

the Protestants

would never

it

freedom would put forth

certainly

the tree

is

nation

may be

it

its

flourish

but at the commencement of their

This prediction

buds."

apparently realized

observed, that the government of Louis Philippe

favourable to religious freedom than that of Charles

that every succeeding reign will evince

of toleration.

is

on the eve of being crowned with leafy honours.

May

new

X.

traits of the

Chateau-Queyras, but

may

it

put forth

A short way before

its

its

leaves in

shadow

same ennobling

spirit

its

season,

and the

free

and

!"

arriving at Molines,t

a huge fragment of primeval rock, with the

its

for

much more

and we sincerely trust

Leaving the Valley of the Guil, they commenced ascending the

consequence of

In expla-

the breath of persecution never again blast the tree of

the virtuous rejoice and be glad under

of St. Veran.

is

name

lateral

Ehrmann

VaUey

pointed out

of Neff attached to

it,

in

having been generally used by him as a short resting-station

during those laborious journeys through his vast mountainous parish, which he
After passing the village of Molines, they entered

could only perform on foot.

another, the next to St. Veran, and were cordially received in the house of a
One

of the finest views of Chateau-Queyras

is

obtained at the extremity of the town, in the direction

of Abries,

t The commune of Molines

which the church and presbytery

stand isolated in the plain, watered by the river. On the south, crowning a mountain, is seen the chape! of
Near this remarkably hmpid fountain takes its rise in the tufu
St. Simon, femous as a place of pilgrimage.
rock.
The valley is rich in meadow and pasture lands. The inhabitants are cliiefly Protestants.
consists of several hamlets, in the midst of

THE WALDENSES.

192
family well

known

some cows

in the back

it

was much lighter and better swept; and several hand-

ground showed that the proprietor was a man of substance.

His family were evidently more

Adonis of

this wilderness,

was anxious

civilized than

tlieii-

neighbours.

His son, the

and a well-informed youth, circumstances considered,

information

obtain

to

On

Scripture.

Here, although the house was of the same

to the pastor.

construction as the others,

this subject

especially

on subjects connected with

Mr. Bartlett talked with him of

his travels in Svria

and the Holy Land, with which he appeared much gratified.

" The tone of conversation," says the former, " between the pastor and
family gained

my

hearty admiration

culated to serve the noblest end

faith,

so cordial

and imafFected, and so well

cal-

namely, that of strengthening each other in the

enforcing by familiar admonition the public lessons of his ministry, well

timed, affectionately delivered, and cordially received.

thought

I, to

the

is

diflerent

is

kept up in our own country, where the pastoral

too often an irksome duty to the one, and

We tasted

How

different cheeses, the

rye-bread of the country

the

unwelcome to the other

^isit is

produce of the family dairy, with the hard

only bread which crowns the harvest of these

This was our frugal collation after very considerable fatigue,

Valleys.

tliis,

and distant formality with which the intercourse between

stiff

pastor and people

"

this

which temperance and motmtain

air

but

rendered more delicious than the banquet

of three courses to an epicure of the Palais-royal."

They now
dark pines,

started for St. Veran,*

still

lonely,

wolves by which

and in their way passed through a

forest of

and which, in the depth of winter, ovraig to the troops of

it is infested,

is

as dangerous as it is dreary.

One December

evening, just before entering St. Veran, and close to a small shrine near the path,

a yomig

man was

attacked by several of these ferocious animals, which had been

hovering round him for some time.

terminate in his favour

and kept

till

the

still

tlie first

paused, as
spring.

if

It

fall

likely to

an unresisting victim,

The hungry prowlers approached

he distinctly saw their glaring eyes, white tusks, and

sure prelude of an attack.

advance, and equally so to retreat

but

Such a rencounter was by no means

but he was resolved not to

an outlook as he could.

as strict

nearer and nearer,

bristling collars

from a sort

It

was impossible

for

him

to

had now formed a hedge round him,

of irresolution which of the troop should make
;

for they

was a moment of suspense that might have appalled the

its name from a pious bishop of antiquity, who held the see of Cavaillon.
Agreeahl.v
Embrun, this holy man had driven away from the fountain of Vaucluse a
which had become the terror of the country ; but having afterwards died on the mountain of
Qucyras, the saint caused a chapel to be erected on the spot. See also Topog. des Hautcs Alpes, p. 6'2.

* St. Veran derives

to the history of the diocese of

terrible dragon,

He

heart.

his friends

;"

and

ATTACK OF WOLVES.

VERAN.

ST.

stoutest

shouted with

193

but

strength,

his

all

was " a

it

was the only weapon he had

his alpine staff

to repulse them.

For a minute or two he managed to keep the ferocious savages at

strength was fast failing

he

had suffered severe

far cry to

bay but

his

and must shortly

lacerations,

have been torn to pieces, had not a party from the village rushed to his rescue.

They reached him

terrible conflict

home

just in time to save his

upon

his- mind, that it

in a state of frantic

In winter,

recovered.

customary to place

it is

wolves, and then to

but such was the

from which,

terror,

when

life

effect

of this

deprived him of reason, and he was taken

the inhabitants are

it

is

said,

he has never wholly

much exposed

to similar attacks,

the doors of the houses, to serve as a bait to the

offal at

upon them from the windows.

fire

Although not absolutely

so dreary as Dormilhouse,

St.Veran

is

nevertheless far

from being a cheerful abode; even Milton himself could hardly have conjured
up an " allegro" from the scenery and images in this neighbourhood. Mr. B. was
located in Neff's room, in the little auherge which the pastor insisted on giving

up

Next

to him.

day, service was performed in the small chapel,

comfort and edification of

their

worthy pastor

aa-e

this primitive flock, to

like

strengthening them for the

the

precious

of

trials

" we returned down the valley together

bid

him

"

life.

whom

the great

soothing their irritations,

oil,

On Monday,"

He

farewell jvith a feeling of sincere regret.

and

concludes Mr. Bartlett,

but at Villevieille

to

the cordial exhortations of

was compelled

to

was a conscientious pains-

taking minister, if ever there was one, 'zealous in season and out of season,'
affectionate,

liardy
St.

laborious, practical,

Veran

in fact,

it is

is

men

less

important sense, a

the highest, and also the most pious village in the Val-Queyras

said to

is

eaten.

be the most elevated *

Mountain of

in relation to the

bread

and I may add, in a

mountaineer and cheerful companion."

St.

in

Europe

Veran, that

it

and

is

it is

a provincial saying,

the highest spot at which

There are about twenty-three Protestant families here.

are intelligent, well read in Scripture, and very anxious

spiritual subjects.

their

own

lives in

Thej' are the descendants of those

converse on

menf who

used to put

jeopardy by receiving the fugitive Waldensian pastors,

they were obliged to

fly

from persecution

in their

own

valleys,

journey by the pass of Monte Viso, or the Col-de-la-Croix,

tliis

remote

village.

It

is

so secluded, so fenced in

* " La piu alta ou I'i mendgent Pan."

du niveau de la mer, est peut-etre
donnerdnt aucune signe de vegetation, en
t GiUy, Mem. Neff, p. 127.

dessus

Mem. Neff,
commune

la

16,06."

p. 124.

when

and when a day's

brought them

by rock and mountain

to

barriers,

" S. Veran, qui se trouve a 2,094 metres au-

la I)lu3 e'leve'e

Ladoucitli'.

The

to

de I'Europe

les melezes, dit-on, n'y

THE WALDENSES.

194-

that

up

hour there

to this

Thus

ever passed.

is

situated,

not a road approaching

over which a wheel has

it,

on the very outskirts of human society, and

distance from its vices, refinements, and luxuries,

at a

natives rarely quit their

its

and strangers have no attraction

to guide

them

own haunts

to settle elsewhere,

to a corner,

where none of the comforts, and very few of the conveniences

Dr. Gilly's

life,

\-isit,

of

only one Englishman had

have yet been introduced.

found his way to St. Veran * and when the former entered
Till

it,

in

company

\vith

Mrs. Gilly, the sight of a female, dressed entirely in linen, was a phenomenon so
new to those simple peasants, whose garments are never any thing but woollen,
that Pizarro and his mail-clad companions were not greater objects of curiosity
to the Peruvians than they

were to these mountaineers.

round them, and examined

first

" The

women

gathered

one part of Mrs. Gilly's dress, and then another,

with an inquisitiveness and admiration which were sufficiently amusing. There

were no symptoms of actual want among the inhabitants, but every thing indicates
that the necessaries of life are far from abundant either in St. Veran or the contiguous hamlets of Pierre Grosse and Fousillarde

and that great abstinence

at

them against the long

times, and moderation always, are required to discipline

winters, and the scanty supply of food, which result from the climate and soil

of a region

much

beast, than of

better adapted to the habits of the bird of prey, and the wild

Veran is a garden, a scene of delights, when comHere the houses are built like log-houses, of rough
one above the other, and composed of several stories, which have

But

man.

St.

pared with Dormilhouse.

pine-trees, laid

a singularly pleasing look, not unlike the chalets of Switzerland, but loftier
and much more picturesque. On the ground-floor the family dwell unthreshed
;

corn and hay occupy the

first story,

and the second

is

given up to grain and to

stores of bread-cakes and cheeses, ranged on frame-work suspended from the roof.
But at Dormilhouse,f the huts are wretched constructions of stone and mud,

comfort, and cleanliness, seem to be utterly excluded.

not a virtue which distinguishes any of the people in these
mountains and with such a nice sense of moral perception, and with such strict
attention to the duties of religion, it is astonishing that they have not yet learned

from which fresh

air,

Cleanliness, indeed,

is

is the birth-place of Jacques Aymar, the first who ]

by means of " Jacob's divining rod or wand," made of a forked branch
discussion in the seventeenth, and even in the eighteenth century.
Aymar affirmed, that by this marvellous wand he could also detect criminals and that in 1692, he pursued
\See Hautes Ai.pes.
an assassin forty-five leagues by land, and thirty by sea, to make the experiment
of Dormeilleuse Ladoucette
respect to this more general orthography Dormilhouse, instead

* St. Veran,

it

may be

observed en passant,

discover wells, minerals, treasures, &c.,

of green hazel', and which led to so

much

t With
makes the
(maison)

I'Allemand liauss et I'Anglais Iwuse

following observation, (p. 504 .)" Dormilhouse nous rappelle
Chivousse, Touillouse, la
peut-etre cette ftymologie s'appliquerait-elle a Chanousse, Bramousse,

Freyssinouze, &c."

CHAMPSAUR.

VARS. LA

to practise those ablutions in their persons

to health as to comfort.

The same

among

for

the better provided,

and small proprietors,

few

articles,

peasants alike,

as necessary

prevails

even

of the earth,

tillers

Money

is

more corn than

raise

among a
own demands. The

necessarily very scarce

will

meet

their

they rear are driven far before they can be sold, and the return

cattle that
\rill

and habitations, which are

all

the best of whom puts his hand to the spade and hoe with

who can seldom

in coin

195

inattention, in this respect,

they are

the same alacrity as the poorest.

people

GRAVE.

barely pay the taxes, and purchase those indispensable household

and implements of husbandry, of which they stand in need."

even the ordinary resources, scanty as they are,

the poor native

is

fail

them

and

Oftentimes

for this reason

frequently obliged, like the swallow, to migrate* during the

long winter, to leave his barren rocks in search of subsistence, where the climate
is

more favourable

wants of

to the

human

nature, in the same

Savoyards resort to France, and the Tyrolese to

We

must now

but

it is

still

further identified.

satisfactory to

of every reader
deficiency

may

who

know

feels

St.

and labours of Felix

;

that

an interest in the subject, and will amply supply every

Laurent, Champsaui-, Orcieres, Vars,

rated from the others, and

leagues,

life

Our remarks, however, can only be desultory

Dr. Gilly's " Memoirs of Neff" are in the hands

or omission which the picturesque character of the

occasion.

are

all

as the

and imperfect sketch with a few general obser-

close our brief

vations on the scenery of other locaUties with which the

Neff are

manner

Italy.

all

witnesses

present work

La Grave,

each

sepa-

from the pastor's residence, by a distance of many

of

that

indefatigable

zeal

and activity which so

eminently distinguished Neff in the discharge of his pastoral duties, the arduous
nature of which can only be imagined by those

The

difiiculties

who have been on

the spot.

he had to overcome, the personal dangers he had to encounter,

and the exhaustion which naturally resulted from

from one extremity of

his parish to the other,

his long

and fatiguing journeys

were matter of astonishment to

" Les traditions nous apprennent deux faits interessana du

moyen-Sge sur les cantons du Queyraz et du

Les barbares avaient ext^rmin^ les habitans du premier, ou les bergers de Provence menaient
en t^.
Trois d'entre eux s"y fixerent et se partagereiit la vall(fe ou ils
e'leverent une sorte de monument pres d' Aiguilles, pour leur servir de separation et de limites ils dresserent
des conventions qui peuvent etre regard^es comme sages. L'hiver les enfans allerent revoirle ber^eau patemel,

D<?voluy.

libi-ement paitre leurs troupeaux

et leurs descendans, par des Emigrations regulieres chercherent k am^liorer leur sort.

Le nombre des voyageurs

(de Hautes Alpes) est plutot en raison de leurs besoins que de la rigueur des hivers.
4.319."

Each of whom, on an

average,

is

En

1807-8

il

sVleva a

home with him about 212 francs, as the gain

The facts are interesting, and will be found

calculated to bring

the various callings in which they have been employed.

of
in

Ladoucette, pp. 436 433. With respect to D^voluy, above named, it is so wild and sterile, that the late juge de
paix, during a residence of forty years, had only once Iieard the note of the nightingale.
In orplian families,

the sons habitually resign their whole patrimony to their

then set out themselves to seek fortune

in

other parts.

sisters, in

order that they

Hautes Alps.

may

obtain husbands, and

THE WALDENSES.

igg

the robust natives, and to himself

blank which

now

is

elevate the hearts

became the proximate cause of that

so keenly felt and deplored.

He

and minds of his hearers to the great Source of Life

with his dying breath confirmed the sublime lessons he had taught.
of his preaching and exhortation was every where manifest.

by

illumined

indifference

and

his clear

were comforted

won

spiritual

only lived in order to

over to the truth.

Even

to reflection
at

effect

The ignorant were

faithful exposition of the Scriptui-es

lukewarm were roused

the

and

The

the mourners

and even

levity

Champsaur, where at

first

and
the

people were particularly addicted to worldly pursuits and pleasures, he effected a

Although the Protestants are here but a small proportion,

striking reformation.*

example has a most salutary effect upon the rest of the population. "Ah,"
who had heard Neff for the first time, " if this man came often among

their

said one,

would be long ere our innkeepers got rich." In his intercourse with liis
Roman-cathohc brethren, NefF never spoke disrespectfully of them or their
on the contrary, he was forward to place even their errors in the best
religion
us, it

light

" and when they themselves were inclined to give reins to their displeasure,"

says Dr. Gilly, " his meekness took the sting out of their indignation." f Various
instances occur in his

life

to

show how much he was respected, even by those

from whose numbers he was making frequent converts.

To the village of Pallon we have already adverted a few pages back, but again
refer to

it

"

interest.
spirits at

we have
visited
tglise,

for the sake of the following extract

It

my

was

arrival,

stated,

which gives it so much additional

" I first met with Neff, who, full of

at Pallon," says Captain Cotton,

proposed climbing to the caverns, which, in former times, as

were used both

as places of refuge

and of worship.

Among

others

by us under the guidance of a native, was one still called the glesia or
from which the prayers of the people, obliged to retire out of the reach

of their oppressors, had often ascended to the throne of mercy.

It is

now but

small place, owing to a slide of the rock, and opens on the crest of a frightful
he observes " I found tlie zeal of the people increased, and their manners
and proud of their riches, their strength, their beauty, they are not insensible
Dancing has disappeared gaming and drunkenness, which had passed into a
proverb among them, have sensibly diminished and one seldom hears any of those sanguinary quarrels once

On

his visit to this hamlet,

improved.

Worldly

as they are,

to the voice of the Gospel.

so frequent in this valley."

t

who

" While Neff was in France, he accidentally found himself in the company of a Roman-catholic cure
did not know him. Their route lay towards the same place and, as they journeyed together, their conOur pastor, with his usual good sense and right feeling, spoke fervently on
;

versation took a religious turn.

the faith and duties of a minister of the gospel, but he did not drop in a single word which could offend the
prejudices or rouse the suspicions of his companion, who was gradually moved to take a deep interest in the
of a spiritual life which were opened before him. They came to a Roman-catholic church, and
unknown counsellor to enter the sanctuary and implore God's blessing on their converNeff readily complied they breathed their silent prayers together before the altar, and parted, without
the curd being aware of any difference in their religious opinions." Gilly's Memoir of Neff. Appendix.

new views

the cur^ invited his

sation.

CIIAMPSAUR.

CAVERNS AT PALLON.

The guide

precipice.

fearlessly entered

it,

although the rugged rock afforded

by, and

we

ourselves squeezed through another

scarce a handbreadth to hold

opening.

it

do not know," continues

this writer,

" that I ever

the power of

felt

more strongly than when Neff and another who accompanied us

association

chanted Te

Deum

in that wild temple in

sentative of the persecuted race.

of this

197

which the guide appeared the repre-

Guillestre,

which so often occurs in descriptions

was a barony of the empire, giving

district,

of Prince to the

title

arch-

bishop of Embrun."*

We

shall

now recapitulate

passed, with reference to the

still

a few of those

Most of

observed at births, marriages, and deaths.

confined to the Roman-cathoHc population.

relations

through which we have just

localities,

manners and peculiar customs of the inhabitants,

At

the baptismal rites,

and intimate friends within reach, are expected

as

these, however, are

by

to attend

the

all

invitation.

In coming out of the church, the cortege makes a circuit of the different streets

and lanes of the

The godfather and godmother, each with a

village.

certain air

of mystery, present gifts to the accoucMe, sometimes in money, sometimes in

articles for personal or

On first coming

domestic use.

father takes care to scatter a handful of

there waiting
stances
fail
is

but, should he be

may appear

to warrant,

money among

more parsimonious

he

is

out of the church, the godthe poor, and the childi-en

in this act than his circum-

followed by a crowd of young imps,

not to vent their wit and raillery at his expense.

in love

choice

of,

"When

a young

and wishes to be married, a &iend of the young woman's family

and with him he proceeds

In the valley of Champsaur, this

received, the lover

prolong the

'

made

to her parents to enter into negociations.

generally takes place on a Saturday.

If well

and his friend return on the same day of the week following, and

visit till a late

listening to the

visit

is

who
man

hour.

The lovers have then an opportunity

pleasantest things in the world

;'

of saying and

while the parents and the mutual

friend are busily engaged in talking over and arranging the future prospects of

the

happy couple.

They

to the greater or lesser

are then served with houilUe for supper

young lady mixes with the

plate of soup, presented

is

and, according

by her own hand

she marks the degree of influence he has gained over her heart.

nature grated cheese

quantity of grated cheese, fromage raspS,

which the

to the lover,

In cases of

considered in these mountains as a love-philter.

suit is declined, the girl slips into the

this

If the

pocket of her admirer a few grains of oats

I II 1 500 it was raised to the rank of city, and twenty-three years later was besieged by the Huguenots. In
1692 it was taken by the duke of Savoy, after six days siege, the garrison having been compelled to surrender
by want of provisions. It is the birth-place of General Albert, a distinguished officer under Napoleon, who
died a few years ago, and of whom many gallant, doings and clever sayings are recorded.

THE WALDENSES.

198

hence the phrase, " Avoir re9u I'avoine,"

signifies to

have met with a decided

But should the infatuated youth still persist m his addresses, the hardhearted wench signifies her last emphatic rejection by turning all the black embers
refusal

on the hearth toward his side of the fire the meaning of which he cannot possibly
mistake, and

saves a vast deal of

it

young woman

is

to

argument on both

be married out of her native

Again,

sides.

when

young men take up

village, the

arms, pass several days at the inn, and compel the bridegroom to defray
expenses.

When

through several
table

spread,

is

At

partake.

the bride and bridegroom, on their

villages, the

and on

young people are

all

way home, have

all

to pass

out of doors to receive them

and confectionary, of which they must both

this are liqueurs

times, however, the matrimonial progress through the villages has

been interrupted by sanguinary quarrels among the young men, who have been
known to carry off the bride, and thereby compel the bridegroom to pay a large
ransom. But our limits do not permit us to enlarge on these marriage adventures.

With

respect to the burial of the dead, previously to 1789

it

was the custom

at

Briangon to inter persons of distinction in a large vault under the church, and

in

tombs which were called

even before the

vital

put a stop to by

still

There the dead were shuffled into their

coffins,

This revolting practice was happily

subsided.

Ladoucette, the prefet in 1806.

When

dead are

the

laid

no longer the custom to place in their hands a prayer-book,

but at Chantemerle, and several other places,
adliered to in the Gers

out in shrouds,
as

M.

vases.

warmth had

it is

they dispense with

coffins,

and throw the bodies at once into the

At La

fosse.

Grave, where the earth cannot be opened during the long vdnter, their dead
bodies are suspended in the garrets, or from the roof of the house,

when a grave can be dug

of final separation

temporary

asylum

it

relics

with her tears.

is

as the Highlanders

for here the

sit

down

to a feast

all

rice,

communes.

carried to the grave, and the

terminated in the house of the defunct, by a true bacchanalian

is

in the

rites.

same

In Val-

wheaten bread called ponhpo, but no

This, however, varies according to the different

is

the friends and

much

were wont to celebrate their funeral

places a large leathern case of wine

mourning

its

widow

of her husband, without tenderly embracing and

After the ceremony of interment,

Queyras, they use on these occasions

animal food.

the spring,

borne from

to be

is

often painful and afflicting

neighbours return to the house and

manner

till

In the valley of Arvieux, the scene

-when the frozen corpse thus preserved

to its final

never quits the beloved

bathing

for their reception.

In some

ceremony

fete, in

which

succeeded by mirth, and mirth by temporary madness.*

* In Argentiere, all those who have attended a funeral \i9ually find tables spread around the grave ; that
intended for the cur^and the family of the deceased, is even placed across the grave. In this situation tliey

CAVERNS AT FALLON. -CHAMPSAUR.

Of

dark superstitions which, even in the present day, distort the intellect

tlie

and actuate the hearts and

instances
traits

Two

199

but we hasten

we might

lives of the people,

to relieve the

cite

almost numberless

sombre picture by one of those ennobling

of character wliich so often distinguish the peasants of the High Alps.

mountaineers of the Genevre, finding a poor soldier extended on the snow

him with all speed to the hospice. The worthy monks

upon the almost expiring -idctim every possible care and after a little

in a dying state, carried

lavished

the highest reward that could recompense such humane and

that of seeing him open eyes and return to and consciousness.

time had their reward

pious minds

his

life

Delighted with the success of their charitable

efforts,

they pressed some money

upon the two peasants, in testimony of their satisfaction. But " No," said one of
them, " no, my reverend father, keep that for the relief of those who so frequently
depend

for life

on your sympathy.

we now feel

sure

in having

For us

to accept

money would

spoil the plea-

performed our duty." Another anecdote, more intimately

connected with the present work, e\-inces the spirit of mutual forbearance manifested on points of religion. " I have often been deeply affected," says the venerable
ex-prefet of this department, " on learning that on the eve of national fetes,

solemnly resolved to extinguish

all

it

was

old prejudices and party animosities, and I

have generally found that these resolutions were religiously adhered

to."

In a

country peopled almost exclusively by shepherds and agriculturists, whose manners

are naturally mild and pacific, the necessity of peace and mutual forbearance

imperiously

This

felt.

spirit

is

of toleration, particularly imder the liberal govern-

ment of Napoleon, has been often manifested in those communes, where the
population is composed of Catholics and Protestants. The latter, it is well known,
venerate at Orcieres and Vars the

from

all

mutual

attempts at prosely tism.

intelligence

memory
"

On

of the ancient cures, and abstain

one solitary occasion only, the good

which subsisted among the mixed inhabitants of Andeux,

on the point of being seriously interrupted.

v.as

An

ill-directed zeal

on the part

of the Catholics had induced them to erect a cross in the hamlet of Brunichard

the inhabitants of which, as already observed, are Protestants

the walls of the

little

No

temple."

and

to destroy

sooner was this made known, than with that

noble spirit which distinguished his administration, Ladoucette flew to the spot
the ferment instantly subsided

rebuild the walls

forgiveness,

those most active in the demolition, offered to

the Protestants extended to

and from

them the hand of friendship and

feelings of delicacy offered to defray the expense.

Since

that time they have lived together as friends.

and when the repast is over, the nearest relation rising up, proposes the health of their beloved friend,
the defunct, at which every one repeats, " a la sante du pnuvre mort," and drains his glass to the unearthly
toast.
For numerous other customs and peculiarities, see Mmtrs des Hautes Alpes.
dine

200

THE WALDENSES.

BAN DE LA ROCHE,
OR,

"pays d'oBERLIN," ALSACE.

compagnes voila
I'homme de Died qui les eclaire.'et I'homrae d'etat qui les calme. Simple comme eux, pauvre
avec eux, parce que son n&essaire devient leur patrimoine, il les ^lete au-dessus de I'empire
du temps, pour ne leur laisser ni le d&ir de ses trompeuses promesses, ni les regrets de ses
A sa voix d'autres cieux, d'autres tr^sors s'ouvrent poui eux a sa voix
fragiles felicites
ils courent en foule aux pieds de ce Dieu qui compte leurs larmes, ce Dieu leur eternel
he'ritage, qui doit les venger de cette exhe'rddation civile a laquelle une Providence qu'on
Dociles a la voix paternelle qui les rassemble, qui
leur apprend a be'nir, les a devouft

Le

pasteur

. .

ce ministre rele'giie dans la poussiere, et I'obscuritd des

La

les ranime, ils tolerent, ils portent, ils oublient tout

de

I'art, le

Having now completed our

nature, I'amiti^, les ressources

L'Abbi De Boismont.

ministre de la religion seul remplace tout.

brief survey of the mountains of Dauphiny, vre

With

proceed by a natural transition to those of the Vosges.*

labours of Ncff are indelibly associated

with the

Oberlin have been long and forcibly identified

latter, those

so

much

the

first,

the

of the patriarch

so as to

communicate

to these respective districts the characteristic appellation of the Pays-d'Oberlin,

and the Pays-de-NefF.

lives of these

By

all

who have made

themselves acquainted with the

two great benefactors of their race,

was the great model which NefF proposed

his pastoral duties

among

to follow in that track

when he

the dreary solitudes of Dauphiny.

well as spiritual exertions, the pastor of the

Dormilhouse and Arvieux

must be evident that Oberlin

it

for imitation,

Ban de

la

where Neff showed himself

first

undertook

In his temporal as

Roche was emulated

in

in all things well disposed

which Oberlin had so happily opened up, and pursued

for

half a century with unprecedented success.

The Ban

de la

Roche consists of two parishes, Rothau and Waldbach, and

forms part of the western branch of the Haut-Champ, a lofty isolated range of
mountains, separated from the eastern side of the chain of the Vosges by a deep

and long
first

Both parishes extend along the flank of the Haut Champ, the

valley.

at an elevation of thirteen hundred,

above the level of the sea.

and the

latter at eighteen liundred feet

The canton embraces

thousand French acres, almost the half of which

rest divided into

plough and pasture lands.

The

is

a territory of about nine

covered with wood, and the

climate and temperature vary

according to the elevation and exposure of each particular

of Rothau gives
Jura, and

is

it

district.

The

elevation

a climate corresponding with that of Geneva, and part of the

called the

warm

region.

* Histnry of the Vosges.

Memoir

Waldbach, being considerably higher,

of Oberlin.

Visit to

Waldbach.

WALDBACH.

BAN DE LA ROCHE.
enjoys what

may be

Warsaw and Wilna.

of

generally not

it is

till

The
the

to tlie

thermometer

and snow commence in September, and

fogs, rain,

months of

201

and answers

called a temperate climate,

May

when

or June,

the wind blows from

Here the sudden melting of the snow

the south, that the latter begins to melt.

attended with the same disastrous effects which so often carry destruction into

is

The

the valleys of Switzerland.

cultivated

which amounts

soil,

seventeen hundred acres, producing rye, oats, and potatoes,

perhaps

to

is alluvial,

formed

by the debris washed down from the rocks and accumulated in the

valleys

The produce of

below.

time of harvest, varies

this little canton, as well as the

according to the elevation of the several communes; and even in these there
are three degrees of fertiUty, arising from the particular elevation in respect of

The low grounds,

each.

season and products

the sides, and the summit have each their particular

but from the highest so unprofitable

" the wife can carry home in her apron

state of nature,

on

its

life,

and almost inaccessible

scanty and precarious produce.

the cultivation, that

this

mown

ceived.

Not only

destitute of all the comforts of

No

humanizing influence had yet manifested

spirit

itself in this desolate region,

of the inhabitants was as obscure and cheerless as their

length, the light of religion began to dissipate this moral darkness

the natives from their intellectual torpor, and

by

it

happy transformation was accomplished under the

who was appointed to the church of Waldbach. In
tion continued to prosper

Oberlin, to

can elevate
families

now

till

the year 1767,

whom, xmder Providence,

man

to

instructing their minds, and

pastoral care of

its

This

Stouber,
civilisa-

devolved upon his successor,

the country

is

all

indebted for

all

that

Instead of the fourscore

half-famished

more than seven times that number,

M.

hands the work of

his
it

happiness and independence.

which formerly constituted

contains

when

soil.

roused

emplojnng their hands, infused a new existence into the place and people.

M.

in a

country was in a

Fourscore families could hardly subsist

but hungry and almost naked, their misery and ignorance can hardly be con-

and the

At

is

the hay her husband has

all

In the reign of Louis XV., the whole of

long morning."

population, the

of

whom

live

district

humbly but

happily by the exertions of agriculture and manufacture, uniting intelligence

with industry, and piety with pleasure.*

Descended

fi-om a learned family of Strasburg,

and educated

at the university

of that city, so justly celebrated as one of the great continental seats of learning,

M. Oberlin brought to the Ban de

an ardent desire to devote
religion, to the temporal,
* " Bail

de

la

all his

and

Roche and

la

Roche extensive

practical knowledge, with

attainments in science, in pliilosophy, and in

spiritual happiness of his parishioners.

its

Benefactor."

AVilks.

3f

" Memoirs of Oberlin.'

At

the

first

OQ2

THE WALDENSES.

glance which he threw over the mountains, destined to be the

he perceived

ministerial labours,

opposed their removal.

and

social intercourse

and the

their necessities,

scene of his

which

diiSculties

His flock were alike destitute of the means of mental

they spoke a rude patois, the medium of no information
;

they had neither roads to traverse their villages, nor to approach their canton
and their prejudices were as inveterate as their ignorance. Few of the people
;

could read they had a poor and scanty soil neither implements nor tools no
and
manure, no knowledge of the management of land, or the nature of plants
added to this, a feudality more fatal than sterile soil and inauspicious climate,
;

and irritated their spirits. A law-suit had continued for

more than eighty years between the feudal proprietors and the people, for the
fettered, compressed,

right of the forests which covered the greater part of the mountains.

And

while

the morals of the wood-cutters were corrupted, and habits of chicanery and contention uiduced, their industry was discouraged

But

small possessions.

whom

by the uncertain tenure of

their

Oberlin, confiding in the power and mercy of that Being

he served, was determined

with

to grapple

all

these evils, and he has

triumphed.* " Friend of the plough and of human happiness," says a French
nobleman, " quit for a moment the banks of the Seine, ascend with me one
of the steepest mountains of the Vosges,

and

with me behold the Ban de

venture to assure you of an ample recompense for your fatigue.

I have

M. Jean

Frederic Oberlin.

race merits the gratitude and veneration of

human

am

I to present to

M.

Oberlin

not a

all

but a whole

life

sesses in her

lence that

imagination

At

bosom
is

tliis

itself

the period

good men

How

the inhabitants of a

delightful to France to

man achieve for the

know that she pos-

How

consoling to benevo-

so rare an instance of goodness

not the dream of philosophy, but reality and

can add no embellishment

fact,

to

when Oberlin entered upon

his

Herculean task

little

room ready

modation which the place afforded

though greatly

le

Comte

to fall

and even

jjrede-

parish.

down, was the only accom-

this, as well as

the masters, was

the lucid description communicated by Mr. Wilks, in his " Ban de la Roche."
de Neuf Cliateau, in his address to " The Royal Agi-icultural Society of Paris."

* Such, in part,

M.

which

!"-j-

by the pious labours, the industry, zeal and judgment of his

Stouber there was not one school-house in the five communes of his

miserable hut, with one

and most happy

among

facilitated

cessor,

in the person of

one enlightened

What may not

happiness of a whole people

services

consecrated to the diffusion of the

purest knowledge, and the blessings of agriculture,

wild and savage country.

During

Such a benefactor of the

you an opportunity of acknowledging,

single act,

been acquainted with the invaluable

more than half a century,

rendered to this canton by

Roche,

la
.

is

AVALDBACH.
hired at the lowest tender,

great radical

e\'il

he succeeded

tors

and

for each

his

own

but in

and there

crowd in

to

man

not follow this excellent

shall

now

in

liis

all

the youth of the

commune, engaged

a school-house in every village, with able instruc-

large

rooms

them, and paid their salaries out of

for

Every Sunday, the

very limited means.

cliildren of

recited religious lessons which they

presented to their pastor,

and other devices

whom they loved

as a

had committed

common father,

to

memory

coloured drawings,

and received from him suitable ex-

illustrative of their studies,

hortations, accompanied either

each vUlage, by

and inspiring melody the hymns

rotation, assembled in the church, sang with soft

;

We

\illage.

unremitting exertions to remedy this

In conjiuiction with his wife, he formed also governesses

diligent pupils.

they had learnt

203

SCHOOLS.

in every thing else to v/hich he set his hand,

this, as

is

OBERLIn's

by approbation or

reproof. Exertions so novel,

and

so successful, induced his benevolent friends at Strasburg to increase their contributions.

library

was formed for the use of the chikben

indigenous plants was arranged

ments were procured

an

electrical

a collection of

machine and mathematical instru-

education was at once dignified and facilitated

and the

whole organized, mider the pastor's own direction, with a particular adaptation
to

moral uses, formed altogetlier a beautiful and perfect system.

range o

liis

religion,

and which gave them a

The

circular

plans united in securing for the children an education founded in

which they were destined.

and benevolence

All

taste for the. pastoral

however, did not

this,

and agricultural

life

to

satisfy the pastor's zeal

and, stiU further to promote the temporal welfare of his flock,

he established an Agricultural Society, composed of the best informed members

of his

own congregation, and joined by

To facilitate the progress of

friends.

struct, repair,

the neighbouring pastors and

agriculture, his first object

some of his

was

con-

to

In a country where rocks hanging on the

and widen the roads.

steep sides of a chain of mountains, and torrents pouring from their summits,
are

incessantly

causing

the

land-slips,

making and preservation

of

roads

require the most fatiguing exertions, and an expense far beyond the resources

of the poor and isolated.

gave a

new

character,

To

this slavish

by putting

his

employment, therefore, M. Oberlin

own hand

to the

work, and selecting for

himself and his faithful valet the most difficult and dangerous spots.*

convenience of his poor parishioners,

who were

in

For the

want of every agricultural

implement, and without the means to purchase, he opened a warehouse, sold

every article
*

The

at,

or even under prime cost, and gave the purchasers credit tiU their

who on

the Sabbath pointed out to them "the narrow way that leads to life," exhorted them
" not to be weary in well-doing," and reminded them of " the rest that remaineth for the people of God," was
seen on the Monday, with a pic-kaxe on his slioulder, marching at the head of two lumdred of his floel;, with an
pastor,

energy that braved danger and despised fatigue.

See the author above quoted.

Sec worl; abo\-e

cited.

THE WALDENSES.

204

He

payments came round.

opened, at vast labour and personal hazard, a com-

munication with the great road

Ban de

la

Roche found

to Strasburg,

by which means the productions

the industry of the mountaineers was to be exerted.

own expense youths

at his

of the

a market, and those commodities were imported on which

He

next, by apprenticing

of suitable talents in the adjacent towns, introduced

trades into the parish, which

had previously neither wheelwrights, masons, smiths

The domestic

architecture underwent, in like manner, a speedy im-

nor glaziers.

provement

so that the cottages

now present

a neat and cheerful appearance, and,

in their internal arrangements, evince every attention to comfort

and

cleanliness.

Until Oberlin settled in Waldbach, the wild apple was the only fruit

To remedy

in the valley.

this defect,

he commenced horticulture in

garden, and being successful, his parishioners followed his example

known
own

his

a taste for

planting was diffused, and the art of grafting, which he taught the people himself,

The improvement of the breed of cattle, the

generally practised.
management of manure, the cultivation of natural and artificial
growth of potatoes, the raising of

flax,

were

all

increase

and

grasses,

the

successively introduced, and

prospered under the direction of this extraordinary man.

Durmg

kingdom

the Revolution, which plunged the

into misery

and

distress,

Oberlin, like the rest of the clergy, was deprived of his scanty income.

Soon

commencement, an attempt was made by the heads of the parish to raise

after its

an equivalent

but although they went from house to house, the collection,

during two successive years, amounted only to about fifteen hundred francs,
which constituted nearly his whole revenue during that time for he received no
" My people," he used to say, " are born, baptized, married, and buried,
fees.
;

free of

expense so

far, at least, as their

of terror," which followed, the

Ban

peace in the midst of war and carnage.

dicted tlrroughout France ;
talents,

pastor

de la

is

concerned."

Roche alone seemed

When

when almost aU

During the " reign

to

be an asylum of

every kind of worship was inter-

the clergy of Alsace,

men

of learning,

and property, were thrown into prison, Oberlin was suffered to continue

his pious labours without molestation.

individuals,

some of high

creeds to his own,*

although at his

whom

own

His house became the retreat of numerous

rank, others of very different political and religious

terror

had driven from

their

homes. In favour of these,

personal risk, he exercised the most christian hospitaHty.-|-

' "
I once," says a gentleman who was then residing at Waldbach, " saw a chief agent of the Revolution
house and in that atmosphere he seemed to have lost his sanguinary disposition, and to have
exchanged the fierceness of the tiger for the gentleness of the lamb.' Memoirs 0/ Oberlin.
+ To explain this apparent inconsistency between his trivial emolument, the support of his large

in Oberlin's

family, and the hospitality thus exercised,

tion having

been committed to

education, to the purposes above

we may

his charge,

named

observe, that the children of several foreigners of distinc-

he devoted a great portion of the money, received

for their

BAN DE LA ROCHE.
would be a delightful task

It

FOUDAI.

to follow this

205

good man step by

step, to point

out the successive laboiu-s in wliich he engaged, and in which he triumphed

but as
far

would be a deviation from the plan of our present work, and would

this

exceed our hmits, we must close our sketch with a few miscellaneous

observations.

excellent

On

pastor

perusing the annals of the

traces

reminded of those ancient

forcibly

Ban de

every circumstance of

Roche, in which

la

its

and progress, we are

rise

its

which, under the wisdom and example

states,

of their legislators and magistrates, became the admiration of surrounding nations.

But the remarkable

difference

the former rose progressively

between these and the Ban de

whereas the

century, under one single incumbency

Roche,

this

It is

unprecedented

that Oberlin was supported in

by the

visible

command

all his difficulties,

He

such

him

Protestant

this,

want and ignorance, and

" In a
is

word ever

strengthened in

all his

in

the Divine

God and

under-

aid

and

his labours

the welfare of

was not

effected

its

produce

it

He

were incessant

intellectual refinement,!

was

in the face of the

in the religious

by the colony of which he

an eminent but

liberal

Koman

is

and

found them immersed

till

he had raised them

which are their characteristic

attentive to the happiness of his flock in this world, and in that which

universally beloved

Eveque de Blois

la

and Catholic* have united in bearing

in the variety and abundance of

to that moral elevation

Ban de

had, metaphorically, that " faith

intellectual life infused into the hearts of the people.f

Oberlin

that

to the natural conclusion

perfect confidence

But the wonderful change he

testimony.

in

is,

over the minds of his parishioners, that, to him, notliing was

To

fellow-men.

country

Roche,

the inspiring energies of Oberlin

impracticable which promised to advance the glory of

his

la

fi*om a semi-barbarous

which, in the survey of the

hand of Providence.

which can remove mountains"

such entire

under

fact,

the stranger with amazement, and leads

fills

takings,

emerged

that of prosperity and refinement within the brief space of half a

state into

himself.

latter

is

to

come,

the friend and the father." Gregoire, ancien

Catholic.

t " The pleasure," says M. le Grand, " of living in the midst of this little colony, whose manners are
and whose minds are enlightened by the instructions which they receive from their earliest infancy,
compensates for every privation attending a residence in this mountainous seclusion from the rest of the
softened,

world."

The

ribbon manufactory at Foudai

one of the illustrations to this Workbelongs to the excellent

who was an intimate friend of Oberlin, and a zealous cooperator in every measure
Ban de la Koche. His establishment here has been attended with
The welfare of the community has been the ruling object of this family, and their philan-

individual above named,

calculated to promote the industry of the

the best results.

thropic exertions are gratefully appreciated.

J The poor and secluded population of the Ban de la Roche enjoy security, comforts, and advantages, of
which thousands who inhabit large and populous cities are entirely destitute. Surrounded by institutions
created and directed by him alone, not one of his pastoral duties was neglected.
His zeal and activitj- were
unlimited. To visit the sick, to console the dying, he would climb the steepest mountains, and take his way
through pathless snows and after the arduous duties of the day, the night was often spent in travelling to
Stra.sbourg, that no day might be lost to the interests of his beloved parish! Memoir.
;

3 G

THE WALDENSES.

206
features at this

moment.

One

of the most important of

all

Oberlin's achieve-

ments, was the part he took in settling the long-protracted litigation, already

These obstinate

alluded to, between the inhabitants and their feudal superiors.

opponents were brought to concede through his friend,

of the

Lower Rhine

M.

de Lezay, prefect

a satisfactory arrangement was accomphshed, and a final

termination put to fourscore years of animosity and discord.

At

the desire

of the prefect, the mayors of the different towns, composing the deputation,

presented to

M. Oberlin

pen with which M. de Lezay had signed

the

solemn treaty, and begged him to suspend

To

beneficence and christian charity.

that the day on which that

it

this

tlie

in his study as a trophy of habitual

Oberlin modestly acceded, observing,

pen had been used was one of the happiest of

place, opposite the cross of the Legion of

The pen is still in its

presented to him by Louis XVIIL, and these, along with

life.

his

Honour

the prize-medal voted to

Oberlin by the Agricultural Society of Paris, are the gratifying testimonials of

The personal anecdotes are all in charachis public services and private virtues.
ter with his

works

works

lively faith of

which evince that

the fruit, and of which every hour of his

life

afforded

some

which they were

practical illustration.

His usual motto was " Tout au Sauveur '."all for Christ the advancement of
his delight, and the great moving spring of all his earthly
;

whose kingdom was

" Oh," said he to his parishioners" oh, puissiez-vous oublier

!"
celui de Jesus-Christ que je vous ai annonce

labours.

nom,

et

mon

ne retenir que

In his personal appearance, Oberlin was above the middle size, athletic in his
youth, of prepossessing manners and address, and fascinating those around
him by the charms of his conversation, the originality of his mind, and the
occasional sparklings of a chastened wit.
to bear

upon one point the

associated.

Even

spiritual

All his faculties, however, were brought

improvement of

at the age of fourscore,

he was

still

all

with

whom

he met or

prepossessing still vigorous

mind and spirit delighting in his parishfull of fervent charity. " I never,"
who was some time a visitor in his family" I never knew
so well what the grace of courtesy was till I saw this remarkable man."
At length the period of his earthly labours approached. On Sunday, the 8th

in

says an English lady

of

May,

1826, he was attacked with shiverings and faintings, which indicated the
During the intervals of consciousness, the ruling passion

approach of dissolution.
of his

life

was strongly manifested

in the fervent

language of piety and affectionate

who surrounded his bed. He lingered

Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday and on Thursday forenoon, about

resignation with which he adcbessed those

during the

eleven o'clock,
eighty-six.

entered

upon

his

immortal inheritance, at the mature age of

THE BAN DE LA ROCHE.

We
bell

need not enlarge upon the sorrow which

conveyed the tidings through the distant

was strong and universal

common

father and friend,

207
every heart,

when the deathThe expression of grief

villages.

was the mourning of one great family

who, for sixty years, had watched over their
it

and now preceded them

interests,

filled

in that journey for

which he had

for their
spiritual

so faithfully

prepared their steps.

His funeral was attended by a vast concourse of smcere

mourners, among whom were several Roman Catholic priests, dressed
in their

who took

canonicals,

theii-

seats

among

the

evidently participated in the general grief.

now

Foudai,*

is

ment" of

this excellent

his

is

a place of daily pilgrimage.

But if we ask

in

consistory,

and

the churchyard of

for the " public

monu-

man, our answer

is, that the whole Ban de la Roche

who visits that enlightened spot we need
" Judi /Circumspice J" Hear his character from the
lips of the

monument

only say,

members of the
His tomb,

and

to the stranger

people; see his labours on every object around,

" Such praise be

his, in

whose lamented end

A province mourns a father and a friend

He found our soil by labour unsubdued.

Even as our fathers left it, stem and rude

He tamed the torrent fertilized the sand
.

And joined a province to its parent land

Recurrent Famine from her holds he chased.
And. left a garden, what he found a waste."

"We now return to take a short review of our subject, with a brief notice of such
of the engravings as could not be conveniently introduced while
relating the
enterprise in which the

Waldenses engaged for the recovery of their Valleys.

In following the steps of Arnaud and his intrepid associates, we have made it our

object to dwell rather on the eve7its of their march, than to indulge in local
descrip-

The

tion.

named

in

particular scenes through

the Rentree

are

which they passed some of which are only

more

or less interesting, not merely as the

striking features of Savoyard landscape, but as exhibiting those particular localities

all

through which the exiles effected a passage, or where they made a temporary
The march, as already stated, commenced on the Savoy border of the

halt.

The View here given of Foudai,

(p. 205,) exhibits the line of road at which Oberlin laboured with his
hands, (p. 203,) and of which the State has since availed itself, in order to complete the
post-road from
Strasbourg to Epinal. Since the opening of these Valleys by the means here mentioned, cotton
manufac-

own

have arisen at Schirmeck (the View of which is given at p. 203) Rothau, and various other hamlets
and the Ban de la Roche now teems with an active, moral, and industrious population. 1837.
tories

THE M'ALDENSES.

XVO

lake of Geneva, between the small towns of Ivoire and Nernier

of the illustrations here to be noticed,

is

that of

village the exiles halted at the close of the first day,

some refreshments, again

set out

more

original Rentree,

fully stated in the

by moonlight to

we

and the

Viu and the Mole.

first

Near

this

and having partaken of

But

St. Joire.*

shall quote,

this

being

under each head,

the passages in question, altering only in a few particulars their

now

obsolete

orthography.
St.

Joire where the Waldenses were so hospitably entertained,f

of the letter before mentioned

is

in

consequence

a beautiful situation, finely secluded amongst

a congeries of alpine summits, with a picturesque chateau, flanked with turrets,

in the fore-ground,

The Pont de

and overlooking the village church and

la Cret,

crested Alps filling

valley.

overhung by gigantic masses of granite, with

up the back-ground,

a scene of which

is

it

The

even impossible, to convey any adequate description in words.

estimate

its

component

arch

the

the

savage barrier

The

arch,

is

glacier-

difficult,

way

best

or
to

features, is to observe the proportion they bear to the

only vestige of art by which

man

has endeavoured to

here interposed between the regions of

life

surmount

and death.

though spanning the torrent at a great height, and built with such

strength and solidity as to withstand the combined shock of winds and cataracts,

dwindles into a mere speck imder the shadow of those stupendous blocks which

Nature, in some convulsive agony, has hurled from their original bed on the
adjoining

discovered

clifis.

The

natural inhabitants of this dismal gorge

by observing the group

in the fore-ground,

an instrument of the old Inquisition

like

herd, the lammergheyer,

is

in

which

this scourge of the

pursues and captures his victims,

described in " Switzerland Illustrated."

readily

torturing an ill-fated chamois that

The manner

has fallen into his inexorable talons.

may be

where the alpine vulture

The two

we have

already

opposite extremes of fierceness

and timidity cannot be better exemplified than in the instinct and habits of
these two denizens of the

High Alps

the chamois, conscious of

its

own weakness,

seeks protection by herding with the flock; the other, solitary and rapacious,

* "

la nuit, on s'arreta pres de Viii, villette du Faucigny, d'oii on se fit apporter du pain, et du
un de8 gentilhommes ne pouvant plus marcher, on le renvoya. Apres avoir ainsi fait
le temps aux habitans de Viii oil s'e'tait addressee la lettre (ante, page 128) dese retirer, au
cas qu'ils fnssent sur les armes on y entra, entre nuit et jour, et y ayant refraichi, on en partit deux lieures
apres au clair de la lune. Mais apres une demie heure de marche, le temps s'e'tant obscurci, on fit e'crire aux

I'entree

de

vin en payant; et

pour doniier

halte,

otages une autre billet pour le bourg de St. Joire,

oil l"on

devait bientot passer." /?mi:rce, p.

b%

S3.

.."Le bourg de St. Joire, oil Ton devait bientot passer; en effet on yarriva demie heure apres, sans oppoau contraire, tout le monde sortait en foule pour voir nos Vaudois, et meme les magistrats firent metti e
Un tonueau de vin dans le milieu de la rue, a discretion des soldats quelques-uns en burent, et quelques
autres n'en voulurent seulement pas gouter, de peur qu'il ne fut empoisonn^. Apres qu'on eut passe' quelques
planches, on arriva a une petite mont(?e oii Ton fit halte en rase campagne." Opus cilut. 53.
f-

sition

PONT DE LA CRET.

S.-FOI. TIGNES.

and relying on his own strength, singles out

to precipice,

becoming blind with

till,

209
from precipice

his victim, follows it

terror, it is hurled into the

chasm, and

the vulture descends to the quiet possession of his capture.

On

St. Foi, in the Val-Isere, presents a scene exclusively alpine.

the right,

a deep ravine, flanked by granite precipices, forms the channel of the Isere; and,
seen between this and the village spire, a cluster of snowy pyramids rises up in

bold relief in the back-ground, conferring an air of grandeur and desolation on

St. Foi is another " oasis in the desert," where spring, sumthe whole scene.

mer, and autumn, pass away in rapid succession, and a dreary winter prevails with
interruption.

little

snare which was here laid for the Waldenses was happily

The

defeated by that caution, vigilance, and penetration, which so eminently qualified

Arnaud

for the

command

to (page 130) we

The

of this enterprise.

particulars previously adverted

subjoin in the words of the Narrative.*

in character than the scenery

Nothing can be more wild and alpine

encloses the river Isere.

The specimen here

route, is situated near the hamlet of Tignes

which

selected as an illustration of the

and

it

would be

difficult to

point

out a scene where the fury of contending elements and their desolating effects

thrown into more striking combination.

are

This

alluded to as the frightful gorgef through which

is

most probably the point

Arnaud and his companions

a place named Laval, Arnaud

Fiu-ther up the Valley, at

to force their way.
and Montoux, after having passed eight days without sleep, and ahnost without
meat or drink, enjoyed the luxury of a supper, and three hours of undisturbed

had

Tignes,

repose.

it will

be remembered,

is

the village where the messengers had

been imprisoned and plundered of their money when reconnoitring

*

point

"

Le temps

abandonnd

^tant venu de faire halte, on se reposa pres d'un petit bourg

Ainsi, en payant,

on en

tira

du

pain,

du

vin, et

de

la

this frontier

nomme' Sainte Foi, qui

n'e'tait

viande sans qu'il y arrival le moindre

On ftit meme surpris en cet

desordre, ce que les officiers previnrent en mettant partout de bonnes gardes.

endroit de la maniere obUgeante dont on y fut re'^u, car plusieurs messieurs, avec quantity de peuples, vinrent
au-devant de nos Vaudois, et les abordant fort civilement, marquaient de la joie de les voir, louaient leur
dessein de chercher a rentrer dans leur patrie, et enfin les priaient de passer la nuit chez eux, qu'ils voulaient

du pain, faire tuer des betes, et donner du vin pour refraichir les troupes. Toutes ces belles paroles
engageantes insensiblement nos gens, qui peut-etre auraient bien pii, a leur malheur, se laisser persuader, si
M. Arnaud, qui i?tait alors de I'arriere-garde, s'aper9evant qu'on ne marchait pas, ne se fiit avance' pour en
savoir la raison. Les officiers lui ayant fait re'cit des offres honnetes que les messieurs de la ville faisaient, il n'y

faire cuire

aucune attention et ayant pour maxime de se dc'fier toujours des caresses affecte'es de I'ennemi, il fit
marcher non-seulement les troupes, mais, avec elles, messieurs les flatteurs, comme des gens qui, sans doute.
avaient en viie de les perilre au milieu de tous les hietis gu'ils leur prometlaienl." Rentrie, p. 76, 77.
t " Ce vallon ^tait entrecoup^ de pas fort faciles a garder; car en otant les poutres qui etaient sur la petite
.En sortant de cet
riviere (torrent) qui I'arrosait, il aurait H& impossible a nos gens de forcer le passage.
affreux vallon .... on vint ensuite a Eutigne (Tignes), village situe dans une petite plaine entoure'e de monfit

On n'y trouva personne, les habitans s'e'tant sauve's sur le haut des montagnes, ou ils se faisaient voir
arm^s. On fit un de'tachement qui leur donna la chassc, cependant un Franfais qui ftait demeure' derriere
fiit bless^.
Sur le soir on alia camper pri-s dun village nomme' Laval," he.
tagnes.

3h

J
:

THE WALDENSES.

210
in the previous year,*

and which

The View we have

to refund.

tlie

Waldenses now compelled the inhabitants

already given at p. 113 of this work.

The Val-Isere,f so frequently mentioned in this work, and known also luider
name of Combe de Savoie, presents throughout its whole extent a succession
of magnificent scenery.
The road to Italy, by way of the Tarentaise and the
Little St. Bernard, is carried along the right bank of the Isere, from its opening
the

Montmeiian

at

to the very walls of Conflans,

The

of Moutiers.

de

la

Porte

the

in the Valley

latter
for,

where

renowned

for

enters the arrondissement

and

St.

Jean

wines, which are considered the best

its

although the summits of the mountains are covered with

and west, are often enriched with

eternal snow, their bases, opening to the south

vineyards

it

villages that follow in succession, are Arbin,

so that the scene, as in every other part of the Savoj' Alps, presents

in one picture the two extremes of fertility

The Valley

of the Jaillon

is

desolation.

and,

which here opposed their march, Arnaud and

in

surmounting the

his

companions achieved what appears, to

difficulties

and

one of the most remarkable in Piedmont

men

in their circumstances, little short

Nothing but the most indomitable courage, cherished and upheld

of a miracle.

by an unshaken confidence

in the Divine protection, could ever have led a

of famished and half-armed

to incur

band

such dangers, and encounter such

the savage nature of the pass and the combined strength of the

difficulties, as

enemy here

men

But these have been already noticed in a former

we need only enrich the statement by an extract
namely, the "most memorable" of the Thirty Days' March.

presented.

portion of the work, and

from the

original,

* " Jeudi, 7bre. 22, on traversa le bourg de Tigne, ou on

avoir

&

pris

Jojirnee, p. 79.
is

fit rendre I'argent que nous avons ci-dessus dit

aux deux hommes que nos Vaudois avaient envoys par avance pour ^pier le pays." Smeme

With

respect to the topographical division of the villages in this route of march, the reader

referred to Mr. Brockedon's Notes, page 167 of this work.

t Of Bonne Val, through which Amaud continued

his march, little is said beyond the quotation annexed

descendirent courageusement la dite montagne de Maurienne, et traversant le territoire du meme nom,
un petit village appelle Bonne Val, ou le Cur^ s'empressa fort a faire boire les officiers, ct
quoiqu'un paysant qui ne voulait point marcher y eiit Ae bien battu, on obtint pourtant tout ce que Ton

"
ils

lis

passerent dans

dema.nia.."Rentree, Sixieme Journie.

t ..." On apprit

qu'il

avail sur le haut de la

montagne un grand nombre de paysans

et des soldats

franyais de la garnison cTEx-iUes, lesquels roulaient sans cesse de grands quartiers de rochers, de sorte que

du Vallon, e'tant deja naturellement fort ^troit, et le Jaillon fort rapide, on vit bien que c't'tait un
cndroit a p^rir. Cependant ayant renforce I'avant-garde de cent hommes, on ne laissait pas d'avancer avec
un courage intrdpide; et quand on se vit a cinquante pas de I'ennemi, on envoya comme on I'a ci-devant
pratique, pour traiter du passage." Rentree, p. 89. [The result of this disastrous day has been already given
in its proper place, p. 143.
But, adds the same author,] " Cette de'route, qui affaiblissait ce petit troupeau, et
qui lui couta beaucoup de butin et de braves gens, n'affaiblit pourtant point le cffiur de nos Vaudois car,
console's de savoir que c'est ni par la force, ni par I'addresse, ni par le nombre des hommes, que Dieu execute
ses merveilleux desseins, ils se rassurerent, et ayant pris la resolution de remonter la montagne de Tourlier
(Touille) on aonna fort long-temps de la trompette, pour donner aux egards un signal de Tendroit oii I'on
le passage

^tait."

Ibid. p. 92.

VAL-ISERE.

The Col de

Toiiille

tlie

JAILLON. COL

DE TOUILLE.

Tourlier of the Rentrie

211

commands the whole outline

of those mountains towards which the Waldenses were here

through an accumulation of perils and

difficulties.

sensation

which sprang up in their hearts, when the bulwarks of their native Valleys
burst
this

upon

their sight,

may be more

first

From

imagined than described.

easily

on

struggling

But the cheering

point they could individualize the very peaks under whose shadow they

had spent
shelter

their infancy

and youth

in the days of persecution

whose caves

in

whose

in

they had tasted the consolations of religion

domestic

and

affections,

the recovery

for

their fathers

united

had found

and vine-covered slopes

forests

in the sweet interchange of

now exposing

of which they were

themselves to every danger, hardship, and privation, which could

afflict

the body

or depress the mind.

But now, with

that blest landscape in their view,

No fears could daunt them, and no foes subdue.

A voice still whispered in their ear Advance
Lo, Heaven restores you your inheritance

Beneath yon mountains, where the sun goes down.

sires have bled, and martyrs won their crown
henceforth, at their hearths, and on their tomb,
Peace shall preside the olive-branch shall bloom
And they *ho now lay watch to shed your blood.
Shall own at last one Cause one Brotherhood

Your

But

APPENDIX.
As examples

of the christian spirit of loyalty with which the Waldenses regard their

legitimate Sovereign, and of the grateful

manner

in

which they treasure up the remem-

brance of every mark of the royal favour, we quote the following passages from the

Catechism now
authority

taught in their schools, and which, on that account,

for they are not a people

who would have

they themselves did not firmly believe and

be read as

it is

feel.

We

is

the best of

their children instructed in

take the original, so that

it

all

what

may

tauglit.

" Nos anciens historiens ayant ete persecutes eux-mfemes, leurs recits respirent et
inspirent la haine contre les persecuteurs.
Aujourd'hui, le souvenir des memes faits
(persecutions) doit rendre plus sensibles la difference des epoques, et porter les Vaudois,

non-seulement k se

feliciter et

abenir Dieu de changement des choses, mais aussi aetre

et a ne voir dans ses mitres sitjels Catholiques Romains,

plus devoues encore a leur roi,

que des freres qui

les

ont traites mal, ce

7>ial

forciment,

et

aiment

a laquelle

et qtt'ils

ne venait pas
il

doivent aimer." Pref.

d'eitx,

vii.

" Si nos Princes nous

mais d'une cause majeure qui

leur eut ete impossible de resister."

viii.

les

entrainait

" Si les Vaudois du

THE WALDENSES.

212
Piemont ont

"

Chaque

fois

que nos Souverains,

Edit defavorable Ton

vit toujours,
les

ment soumis aux

ment,

par

le

la reaction

Dues de

d'tme influence

Savoie, daignerent

ou que

Due Charles

les arreter.".

." II

avait ete surprise, ou que

brave, moral, et dont I'unique tort etait de perseverer dans

lois, fidele,

avait herite de ses peres." Pp. 23, 24.

il

1534, on les poursuivit de nouveau

I'an

Dues

la religion des

avaient contraints, malgre eux, de maltraiter cepeuple notoire-

Foi Evangelique, dont

" Vers

les

apologies que leurs sujets Vaudois leur presenterent a la suite de quelque

les

des raisons politiques

la

que par

ete exposes a des persecutions, ce n'a ete

etrangere." 23.

ecouter

comme

heretiques."

..." Heureuse-

qui ne se pretait qu'avec repugnance a ces violences finit

compta avec raison sur la bravoure et la fidelite de ses sujets
III,

Vaudois, pour s'opposer au Monarque Fran^ais, (Fran9ois I,) leur ennemi declare." 26-7.
" Emakuel-Philibert, ainsi que la Duchesse (sreur de Henri II de France) fut
d'ahord tres favorable aux Vaudois." 28. " Des que le Due apprit I'affreuse tiotivelle des
massacres de la Saint- Barthelemy,

en eut horreur

il

que d'innocentes victimes de la haine

"
et

Charles-Emanuel

pour recompenser leurs

" Puis

Victor-Amedee

reconnut
utiles

I,

son

Vaudois, ne laissa pas de renouveler

Emanuel

merac

imita

II

la

a.

ne vit plus dans

et d'accueillir leurs

il

les

son

ennemis des

les

privileges des habitans des Vallees

et

confirma leurs anciens privileges." 32.

quoique obsede successivement par

son pere

Reformes,

les

II defendit a Castrocaro toute

ceux de recevoir

valeur et la fidelite de ses sujets Vaudois

services,

fils,

; et

de Vambition

et

Vaudois, et permit meme

malheureux freres de France persecutes." 31-2.

violence envers ses sujets

Charles-

par des edits que son

ai'eul,

equite

naturelle lui inspirait." 34.

XIV

" 1686. Louis

Amedee

II

Fran9ais etait

'

si

en chassant

les

protestants de son royaume, invita le

I'imiter envers ses sujets

prononce,

q\i'i?iviter le

des Vallees.'

comprendre (aux representation des L. Cant. Evang. de

sans remede,
" 1694.

et

Due VieioR-

L'ascendant du Monarque

La cour

due, c'etait lui ordonner.

de Turin
le

mal

qu'on nefaisait en Piemont qu'obeir aux ordres de Versailles' "

37.

Le Due Victor-Amedee

incorpora

la Suisse),

que

'

fit

etait

Vaudois (exiles) dans ses propres

par son Edit il declara

les

troupes, les assurant de sa bienveillance et de sa protection:

avoir persecutes, que farce quit

franchement ne

les

etrangere." 41

(See

meme

sa capitale,

Vaudois, qui

a7ite, p.

169, the original words).

Le Due Victor-Amedee

lui servirent,

propres yeux combien

en quelque

ils lui

sort,

y
.

avait ete force

."

II retira

par une Puissance

Comme les Fran^ais assiegeaient

pendant quelque temps chez

de gardes du corps:

il

les

put done voir de ses

etaient devoues, et 6taient prets a verser leur sang pour

son service." 44. (See this incident fully related, p. 51.)

" 1730. La Cour de France reclamait I'expulsion des Protestans Fran^ais, qui s'etaient
refugies dans les Vallees, et

avantageux a

la

le

cour de Turin

Pupe Clement XII

'

si

elle

menacjait de revoquer un concordat

ne sevissait contre

les relaps et les

renegats

:'

en

que potir satisfaire aux deux Puissances le Roi VieTOR-AMEDEE II promulga

TEdit qui occasionna de nouveaux bannissemens." 48. [It is in this manner that these

sorte

truly loyal subjects inculcate the firm belief that their sovereigns

them, unless from some unavoidable necessity.]

" De 1792 a 1798. S. A. R. Le Due d'Aoste (depuis

le

have never persecuted

Roi, Victor-Emanuel) habita

THE CREED OF THE 'WALDENSES.

quelque temps paimi
Pere,

'

de

[This fact

sa satisfaction et sa royale bienveillaiwe.' " 50.

lew temoigner piibliquement

is

213

Vaudois, et fut nieme charge par S. 31. Viclor-Amedee II, son

les

who have charged

a sufficient answei- to those

the Waldenses with encou-

raging revolutionary principles.]

" Les evenements arrives en Piemont en 1821,

attestent la moralite et la fidelite

parmi eux un ministre

et la tranquillite

du caractere des Vaudois.

dont jouira

les Vallees,

que trouva

L'asile sur

dans ces circonstances critiques, et Vamour que leur

d'etat,

M. feu Victor-Emanuel, sont des teinoignages flatteurs qui n'auront pas

peu contribue a incliner le Roi Charles-Felix a leur etre aussi favorable." 52. Our
limits prevent us from enlarging on this subject
and we have only to add, that the

portait S.

kindness of his present Majesty,

decessors.

And

this

we

trust

is

Charles Albert,*
the sure

has exceeded that of

omen of happier days

for the

pre-

all his

Waldenses.

THE CONFESSION OF FAITH.

(FESSION DE FOI DES EGLISES

Nous CROYONS,
I.

Qu'il y a

un

seul

Dieu, qui

une Essence

est

spirituelle, eternelle,

toute

infinie,

un mot, toute parfaite et qu'il y a Trois

Personnes en cette seule et simple Essence, le Pere, le Fils, et le Saint-Esprit.
II. Que ce Dieu s'est manifests aux hommes par ses oeuvres, tant de la Creation que
sage, toute misericordieuse, et toute juste; en

de

Providence, et par sa Parole revelee au

la

sortes, puis redigee

par ecrit dans

III. Qu'il faut recevoir,

comme

les

les livres

de

1'

oracles en diverses

nous recevons, cette Sainte Ecriture pour Divine et

Canonique, c'est-a-dire pour regie de notre

pleinement dans

commencement par

Livres qu'on appelle I'Ecriture-Sainte.

Ancien

et

foi et

de notre

Testament doivent etre compris seulement

que dans I'Ancien

que Dieu a comniis a

les livres

Judaique, et qu'elle a toujours approuves ou reconnus pour divins, assavoir

Livres de Moise, Josue,

les

Psaumes,

Juges, Ruth, le

I.

Croniques ou Paralipomenes,

et II. des

le I.

les

les

et II.
le I.

de Samuel,

quatre grands Prophetes, et

les

douze

et

dans

I'Eglise
les

cinq

le I. et II. des Rois,

d'Esdras, Nehemie, Esther, Job,

Proverbes de Salomon, I'Ecclesiaste,

petits

contenue

vie, et qu'elle est

du Nouveau Testament

le

le

Cantique des Cantiques,

Nouveau Testament,

les

les

quatre

Evangiles, les Actes des Apotres, les quatorze Epitres de Saint Paul, une de Saint

Jaques, deux de Saint Pierre, trois de Saint Jean, une de Saint Jude, et I'Apocalypse.
I'V.

Que nous

reconnoisons la divinite de ces Livres sacres, non-seulement par

very recent and most pleasing trait of royal beneficence was evinced by the King in behalf of a

densian

officer,

who

died in garrison at Aorte.

le

Wal-

In this case, his majesty, with a magnanimous disregard of

ancient precedent, not only granted to the deceased soldier the privilege of a grave
kindred, but settled a pension upon his disconsolate widow.

among

his Protestant

CONFESSION DE FOI

gl4
temoignage de

mais principalement par I'eternelle

I'Eglise,

doctrine qui y est contenue

par I'excellence, la sublimite et

du Saint-Esprit, qui nous

et par I'operation

et indubitable verite

de lumiere celeste qui 6clatent dans I'Ecriture,

cette viande par la saveur divine qu'elle

V.

Que Dieu

fait

de

la ma.jest6 toute divine

la

qui

reeevoir avec deference le

y paroit
temoignage que I'Eglise nous en rend, qui ouvre nous yeux pour decouvrir
;

et rectifie notre

les

rayons

gout pour discerner

a.

toutes choses de rien, par sa Volonte toute libre, et par la

fait

puissance de sa Parole.

VI. Qu'il

conduit et gouverne toutes par sa Providence, ordonnant et adressaut

les

tout ce qui arrive au monde, sans qu'il soit pourtant ni auteur ni cause du mal que les

creatures font, ou que la coulpe lui en puisse ou doive en aucune fa^on etre iniputee.

Que

VII.

Anges ayant

les

ete crees purs et saints,

y en a qui sont tombes dans une

effet de la

il

corruption et perdition irreparable, mais que les autres ont persevere par un

bonje Divine qui

VIII.

les

a soutenus et confirmes.

Que Thomme

qui avoit ete cree pur et saint, a I'image de Dieu, s'est prive,

par sa faute, de cet etat bienheureux, donnant ses assentiments aux discours captieux

du Demon.

Que

IX.

I'homrae a perdu, par sa transgression, la justice et la saintete qu'il avoit

revues, encourant, avec I'indignation de

de celui qui a I'empire de

est

devenu serf

et esclave

Dieu,

mort, assavoir

la

le

mort

la

Daible

et la captivite sous la puissance

a ce point que son franc arbitre

du peche, tellement que de nature tous

les

hommes,

et Juifs et

Gentils, sont enfans d'ire (ou de colere), tous morts en leurs fautes et peches, et par

consequent

un bon mouveraent pour le salut, ni nieme former

Gr^ce toutes leurs imaginations et pensees n'etant que

incapables d'pvoir

aucune bonne pensee sans

la

mal en tout temps.

X.

Que

toute la posterite

de corruption,
de leur mere,
XI.

d'Adam

tombee dans

et

d'oii vient le

Que Dieu

retire

la

nom

coupable en

est

meme

lui

de sa desobeissance, infectee

calamite, jusqu'aux petits enfans des le ventre

de peche originel.

de cette corruption

condamnation

et

par sa misericorde en son Fils J6sus-Christ, y laissant

les

personnes qu'il a elues

les autres

par un droit irreproch-

able de sa liberte et justice.

XII.
le seul

Que

Jesus-Christ ayant ete ordonne de Dieu, en son decret eternel, pour etre

Sauveur

et I'unique

Chef de son Corps qui

propre sang dans Taccomplissement des temps,

et

est I'Eglise,
lui

ofFre et

il

I'a

rachetee par son

communique

tous ses

benefices par I'Evangile.

XIII. Qu'il y a deux natures en Jesus-Christ, la divine et I'humaine, vraiment en

meme personne, sans confusion, sans division, sans separation, sans changement

une

chaque nature gardant

ses proprietes distinctes, et

homme, tout ensemble.

XIV. Que Dieu a tant aime

que Jesus-Christ

est vrai

Dieu

et

vrai

le

monde

qu'il

son obeissance tres-parfaite,

nommement par

maudite de

les victoires qu'il

la croix, et

par

a donne son Fils pour nous sauver par

celle qu'il a

montree en souffrant

a remportees sur

le

Diable,

le

la

mort

peche, et

la mort.

XV. Que

Jesus-Christ ayant

fait I'entiere

expiation de nos peches par son sacrifice

DES EGLISES VAUDOISES DU PIEMONT.

trt's-parfait,

une

ibis offert

pretexte que ce

XVI. Que
de

ne peut ni ne doit etre reitere sous quelque

il

soit.

Seigneur Jesus nous ayant pleinement reconcilies a

le

la croix, c'est

XVIII. Que

par

le

sang

lui.

XVII. Que nous avons union avec Jesus-Christ,

et

communion

promesses de vie qui nous sont

la foi qui s'appuie sur les

a ses benefices par

en son Evangile.

faites

du Saint-Esprit qui
Dieu, pour s'appliquer

cette foi vient de I'operation gracieuse et efficace

eclaire nos ames, et les porte a s'appuyer sur la misericorde de

le

Dieu

par son seul merite et non par nos oeuvres que nous somraes absous

devant

et justifies

en la croix,

215

merite de Jesus-Christ.

XIX. Que Jesus-Christ

est

notre

vrai

et

unique Mediateur, non-seulement de

redemption, mais aussi d'intercession, et que, par ses merites et sa mediation, nous

avons acces au Pere, pour I'invoquer avec

soit

la sainte confiance d'etre

besoin d'avoir recours a aucun autre Intercesseur que

XX. Que comnie Dieu nous promet

exauces, sans qu'il

lui.

regeneration en Jesus-Christ, ceux qui sont

la

unis a lui par une vive foi doivent s'adonner et s'adonnent en effet aux bonnes oeuvres.

XXI. Que les bonnes oeuvres sont

Royaume des Cieux sans les

si

venir au

necessaires

aux fideles qu'ils ne peuvent parque Dieu les a preparees afin

faire, etant vrai

que nous y cheminions qu'ainsi nous devons fuir les vices, et nous adonner aux vertus
Chretiennes, employant les jeunes et tous les autres moyens qui peuvent nous servir a
:

une chose
de

si

sainte.

XXII. Que bien nos oeuvres ne puissant pas m6riter, notre Seigneur ne laisse pas
les recompenser de la vie eternelle, par une continuation misericordieuse de sa

grace, et en vertu de la Constance imrauable des promesses qu'il nous en

XXIII. Que ceux qui possedent

oeuvres, doivent etre consideres

dans toutes

les belles actions

peut prier qu'un seul

XXIV. Que Dieu

qu'elle n'a

de leur vie

Dieu par

de leur

foi et

fait.

de leurs bonnes

saints et glorifies, loues par leurs vertus, imites

mais non adores ni invpqus, puisqu'on ne

Jesus-Christ.

s'est recueilli

une Eglise dans

qu'un seul chef et fondement qui

XXV. Que
avant la

la vie eternelle ensuite

comme

le

monde pour

le salut

des honimes.

est Jesus-Christ.

compagnie des Fideles, qui ayant ete 61us de Dieu

fondation du monde, et appeles par une sainte vocation, s'unissent pour
cette Eglise est la

suivre la parole de

XXVI. Que

Dieu, croyant ce

cette Eglise

qu'il

nous y enseigne, et vivant en sa crainte.

ne peut defaiblir ou etre aneantie, mais qu'elle doit etre

perpetuelle.

XXVII. Que tous s'y doivent ranger, et

XXVIII. Que Dieu ne nous y instruit
plus

il

communion.

pas seulement par sa Parole, mais que de

pour coramuniquer a

nous unir a Jesus-Christ,

et

deux communs a tous

merabres de

Bapteme

XXIX.
et

se tenir dans sa

a institue des sacremens pour les joindre a cette Parole,

les

1'

comme

ses benefices

Eglise sous le

des

moyens pour
en a que

et qu'il n'y

Nouveau Testament,

assavoir

le

et la Saint-Cene.

Qu'il a institu6 celui du

Bapteme pour un temoignage de notre adoption,

que nous y sommes lav^s de nos peches au sang de Jesus-Christ

saintete de vie.

et

renouveles en

CONFESSION DE FOI DES EGLISES VAUDOISES.

216

XXX.

Qu'il a institue celui de la Saiiite-Cene ou Eucharistie,

notre ftme, afiu que, par une vraie et vive

(bi,

par

la

pour

la

nourriture de

vertu incomprehensible du Saint-

Esprit, mangeant eftectivement sa chair, et buvant son sang, et nous unissant tresetroitement et inseparableraent a Christ, en lui et par lui nous ayons la vie spirituelle
et eternelle.

XXXI.
bonne

Qu'il est neeessaire

vie par

ceux qui en ont

I'Eglise ait des pasteurs juges bien instruits et de

que

le droit, tant

pour precher

la Parole

de

Dieu que pour

administrer les sacremens, et veiller sur le Troupeau de Jesus-Christ, suivant les regies

d'une bonne et sainte discipline, conjointement avec

les

Anciens

et les Diacres, selon la

pratique de I'Eglise Ancienne.

XXXII. Que Dieu

que

les

a etabli les rois et les magistrats

la conduits des peuples, et

peuples leur doivent etre sujets et obeissans en vertu de cet ordre, non-seule-

ment pour

I'ire,

mais pour

Parole de Dieu, qui est

XXXIII.
le

pour

Decalogue,

Etpour

le

la conscience,

Roi des

comme

en toutes

rois et le

Enfin, qu'il faut recevoir le

les

choses qui sont conformes a la

Seigneur des seigneurs.

Symbole des Apotres, I'Oraison Dorainicale

et

pieces fondamentales, de notre croyance et de nos devotions.

plus ample declaration de notre croyance, nous reiterons

ici la

protestation que

I'an 1603, assavoir que nous consentons a la sainte doctrine avec

Reformees de France, d'Angleterre, des Pays-Bas, d'Allemagne, de
Suisse, de Boheme, de Pologne, de Hongrie, et autres, ainsi qu'elle est exprimee en
Et proleur confession d'Augsbourg, selon la declaration qu'en a donnee I'Auteur.

nous times imprimer

toutes les Eglises

mettons d'y pers6verer,

Dieu

aidant, inviolablement en la vie et en la raort, etant prets

de sceller cette verite eternelle de Dieu de notre propre sang, comme I'ont fait nos
predecesseurs, depuis le temps des Apotres, particulierement en ces derniers siecles.Et pourtant nous prions bien humbleinent toutes les Eglises Evangeliques et Protestantes
tenir, nonobstant notre pauvrete et petitesse, pour vrais membres du corps
et de nous continuer
mystique de Jesus-Christ, souffrant pour son saint nom
I'assistance de leurs prieres envers Dieu, et tous les autres bons offices de leur charite
comme nous les avons deja abondamment experimentes, dont nous les remercions avec

de nous

toute I'humilite qui nous est possible, et supplions de tout notre coeur le Seigneur qu'il
en soit lui-meme le Remunerateur, versant sur elles les plus precieuses benedictions de
sa grace et de sa gloire, et en cette vie et en celle qui est a venir.

r,

rUINTEK, EBEAD-STRKET-HILL

Amen.

BRITTLE DO NOT

PHOTOCOPY

^
'^'^
0 ao

30UND
APR 2

1982