/

^7

/"?
zTY

""

AND

ART

UNDER

NATURE

ITALIAN

AN

By

M.

J. W.

THOMAS

EDINBURGH:

HAMILTON,

ADAMS,

MDCCCI.II.

SKY.

D.

CONSTABLE
AND

CO., LONDON.

AND

CO.

T.

CONSTABLE.

EDINBURGH

TO

EBB

PRIKTEE

MAJESTY

TO

THE

OF

DUCHESS

VOLUME

THIS

IS

DEDICATED

AS

OF

TlIIIll'TE

II

HAMILTON

M.

J.

M.

D.

AFFECTION

CONTEXTS.

PAGE

Vespers,

197
....

The

Catacombs,

museum

"2()4

of

capitol,

the

207

Bracciano,

211
....

reception

The

is

colonna

the

Vatican

Pictures

paeace,

and

Villas,

The

Miserere.

234

with

Illumination

the

of

Departure

from

Florence,

Leaving

22-1

229

Interview

Visit

Frescoes,

"221

St.

Rome,

Tope,

239

Peter':

243

248

259

to

Fiesole,

26(3

Florence,

269

Bologna,

273

Ferrara,

278

Padua,

282

Venice.

287

AND

ART

NATURE

UNDER

AX

IT

A.M

1.1

SKY

NTRODUCTION.

motives

AJtious

keep

of

change

feelings

with

who

with

still.

home

quiet

Grod

please
read

years,
to

and

the

the

enjoyment

we

for.

that

these

employing

my

them

can

pathize
sym-

valuable

and

our

own

separation
that

are

child

will,

spare

she

the

Yet

dear

days,

new

vividly

more

consequent

cared

her,
of

of

the

or

record

of

share

to

the

marked

recall

to

England

though

spare

record

leaving

is

now.

tenderly
to

of

of

been

experienced
a

sure
plea-

forth

as

so

such

makes

part

thankful

child,

kindly

most

it

just

dear

our

them,

painful

The

either

have

lias

thereby

able

our

peculiar

calling

feelings,

and

scenes

those

be

to

to

during

memorial

past

the

wish

me

that

or

scene,

but

always

possess
if

make

Journal

is

to

me

(.'specially

past,

those

It

tour.

to

to

like

something

present

by

combine

idea,

moments

will

be

that

if

after

in

may,

feel,

from

much

add

of

rest

INTRODUCTION.

leisure

or

in

pleasure
We

embarked

fitted

to

as

seat

who

one

for

is not

were

She

one

her

to

the

of those

with

you
as

precisely

risen

having

the

"

to

exactly

were

writers

have
she

so

gave

both

left

to

this

expedition

to

my

school.

ideas

of that

with

Le

thing

Miss

"

Pere,

generic

having,
a

she

her

as

that

she

John

doubt
while

servants,"
and

other

of

mation
infor-

"

had

great
never

nevertheless

was

press
im-

to

no

pieces

happy, joyous-

every

mother

rather
"

mark

her

been

into

heart

books.

liked,

had

daughter,

thorough

personage

"

other

individual

The
all her

she

as

her

in

Edgeworth

Among
that

pleasing-

leave

carnage,"

worthy

kind.

and

entered

left

her

sat

me

anxiety
to

do

shortly appeared

This

looking girl,

just

"

to

cism
criti-

unmistakable

care

of
come

of

and

with

meets

to

world

Near

evident

an

took

understand

it very

the

considerably

that

able

depicted.

England.

first

viz.,

and

of

clown

that

with

me

bear

She

kind

fortable
com-

bewildering

mutual.

often

so

who

rich

rience
expe-

glided

and

is

passengers

secured

occasions,

amused

world,

and

personal

we

"

conveyance,

through

such

one

the

good-natured

her

what

house,"

me

time

her

my

portly dame,

her

often

as

generally

opposite.

traveller,"though
before

is

as

Antwerp

fellow-passengers, too,

former

quite

far

striking

so

on

people
the

in

being

allusions

"c,

interest

The

daughter.

was

her

to

vessel,

such

in

so

first

somewhat

and

for

myself,

the

doubtless

comfort

Having

One's

of

noble

much.

bustle,

for

share

remarks

of

of

for

mortals

confess,

Thames.

good-natured

looking

of

of

I amused

scene

also, which
a

lot

saying

deck,

the

some

much

must

passes

in

shipping
in

on

the

river,with

the

to

however,
extends,

any

contribute

steamer

seems

as

secure

the

in

"Soho"

The

falls

usually

which,

hereafter

may

Blackwall

at

1845.
so

up

that

way

instruction.

or

September

as

novelty

informed

Bull,
coarse

of
me,

according
and

blunt,

INTRODUCTION.

but

withal

wedding

tour

French

principal

brother

in

maid

kindly.

very

and

close

look

de

compagnons

The

usual

which,
in

down

than

experience
hours'

twenty

constituted

at

have

the

that

the

hours

venerable

round

at

be

Quay

of

amused

at

the

The

approach

any

floating

leave

the

pier

proper

timber

had

vessel.

left

them.

their

escape

Speedily

confusion

these

became

frantic.

For

worse

myself,

getting

was

and

fro,

not

expedite

as

some

our

seemed
matters.

of

of

worthies

doing,

the

Meanwhile,

fever
my

and
of

the

it.
of

or

stand.

As
I

as

was,

confusion
could

not

masses

we

could
venience
incon-

an

passengers
come

deck,

on

quietly, knowing

in

from

be

can

and

After

beheld,

before

prevent

visaed,

these

huge

some

douaniers

passports

albeit

we

to

confounded,
I waited

low,

may

appeared

with

gaze

energetic

and

the

intersect

know,

unremoved,
the

to

fatigued

of

our

of

half-buried,

together
I

of

mouth

they

being

aught

wind.

interesting

which,

being

scene

one.

head

which

did

any

river, we

Antwerp,

lashed

before

the

up

she

Flushing.

which

on

landing,

be

for

This,

purposely

making

to

if
of

deck

banks

water

for

the

on

high

the

panionable-looking
uncom-

history

Antwerp,

plain

most

habitations,

of

the

level

speedily prevailed.

the

town

distance,

the
into

but

not

and

our

and

to

toiling

towers

country,

from

up

of

were

notice

up

came

little

these

personally

made

we

her

who,

sea

more

foreign

poor

weary

other

with

stature,

their

on

lady,
:

except

Blackwall

first

the

her

rough

are

couple

young

no

detail,
from

appearance,

swept

I could

of

the

of the

growing
we

six

or

length,

flatness

of

morning,

on

only

five

in

next

curiosity

some

took

allow,

passage

Scheldt, where,
some

least

will

one

every

if

imposing

accompaniments

as

upon

voyage,
of

at

upon,

sister

attendance

lady
not

married

young

upon
and

bustle
that
that

then
almost

my

band
hus-

rushing

excitement,

long-cherished

to

would
dread

-1

of

INTRODUCTION.

custom-houses

foreign
which

in

that
on

of

some

of the

some

old

an

him

telling

the

if

boxes

my

e'est
and

prepared

fate

being

we

town,

at

sink

struck

with

its wide

our

estimation

in

Antoine"

"St.

is

combined

good

dinner, good

Towards

short

and

stay,
fine

interior

with

The

there.
behind

tomb,

and

relatives.

great

object

high

altar.

the

above,
The

portraits

colouring
Placed

of

Mary,

Virgin
There

is

small

above
chosen
oval

is

is

of

rich,
the

and

St.

and

is

and

picture
brought

the

the

did
hotel.
cellent
ex-

an

best

but

of

and

of
a

here

picture by Vandyke,

the

figure

by

the

on

of
faces
in

his
are

marble

Rubens
which

pure

diately
imme-

number

the

pleasing-

Rubens,

some

is

has

of

inscription

an

It

of

ornaments

of

our

Jacques.

lofty ceiling

tomb

himself

of

desirable

peculiar,

There

the

nor

with

the

Eglise

the

the

to

"

make

carving
and

at

we

charge.

to

gold stars, though

interesting.
the

rich

exrpiisitely finished,

are

white, spangled
effect

The

the

to

traveller's

entertainment

moderate

locked

be

streets;

those

moiselle,
Made-

cleanliness

wayfarer's

forth,

steps

our

church.

old

and

sallied

we

bent

the

dresses

way

house,

with

meets

of

waiting,

evening

comfortable

my

the

reception

our

short,

anticipated,

On

great

packing
re-

In

to

in

than

well-paved

by

one

elements

the

and

most

where

table-d'hote,
seldom

with

in

bien.

me

crisis

grand

foreign ground.

upon

up

tres

to

pleasantly

more

once

as

This

much

myself

lifting

bien,

civilly

was

about.

pulled

"Tres

exert

all belonging

mark.

much

so

over

well

as

The

his

for

were

Antwerp

in

;"'ordering

right gladly

stepped
hotel

fini

be

fixing

and

him,

to

that

to

official,who,

aged

carefully, just peeped

most

is

should

they

the

quite propitiated

unable

manner

perceived

others,

contraband,

and

voyage,

than

the

soon

advances

friendly

nothing

yet

rougher

were

made

had

we

with

fatigued

officers

man,

fared

companions

our

by seeing

relieved

not

was

self
himI

liked,

[NTRODUCTION.

but

struck

other

no

the

Cathedral,

never

before

""i' which

spire

the

delicacy of

its

from

and

the

beauty

and

But

the

this

and

drew

of

affected

as

resignation

with

all this

could

look

object

on

of

the

expression,
have,

he

introduced

has

babe

in

the

her

remarkable

more

who

crone,

the

dead

is
:

in

the

stand

symmetry

and
this

and

the

the

supposed

the
to

stands

be

there

still,

shew

as

the

given
to

though

to

an

the

arrested

that
form

in

also
other

of

two

sorrowful

artist's

her

the

of

calm

power,

with

woman,

perform

next

lifeless

in

upon

look

same

the

face

The

Roman

expression
to

When

the

find.

to

sadness

same

ibly
is indel-

death

holy

Vet

overcome

lovely

as

the

which

limb

and

if

as

touching

imprinted

pale

subdued

noble-looking

is

as

degree,

human

that

and

to

the

was

much

was

glorious picture,

grief

Then,

in

every

on

piece
master-

than

expression,

expects

one

see.

l'Eglise"

great

more

and

to

yet
de

the

power

almost
a

had

feature,

no

of

varied

is

she

moral

is

as

scene.

arms,

grandeur,

pillars

Suisse

Jesus,

attention

there

such

in

of

is itself

But

interest

had

mother's

each

has

parts
my

which

lieh olds.

Marys

other

Jesus.

she

its

posing,
im-

is

interior

Cross."

is

every

feature

every

rivetted

countenance,

of

"

the

There

in

death

the

at

have

to

seems

mar

before

from

it.

upon

truthfulness

which

mother

Descent

appears
of

engraven

of

we

the

hangs

countenance

which

anguish

to

interior

when

which

The

the

the

confessed

gazed

in

expression

for

"

carving

stone

massive

uothing

of

attraction

Rubens,

with

united

to

.justly proud.

The

The

satisfying.

curtain

the

Lace.

weni

we

proportions.

readily

was

so

below,

from

Brussels

with

is

exquisite

simple purity,

its

great

aside

recent

finest

their

of

the

Looking

unencumbered,

and

city

good

like

on

d'ceil is very

coup

alone

tracery,
the

Leaving St. Jacques,

the

anything

saw

the

Od

me.

face.
old

Still

withered

last
in

her

the

offices
very

INTRODUCTION.

dawned

"

out,

is

Rubens's
but

Truly
"

that

this

was

another

of Rubens's

though

some

painting

the

cathedral

solemn

The

all the

celebrated

Laeken,

is

and

the

the

"

speaking

Before

we

of

effect

it

filling

and

The

the
with

de
a

Grande

it,

civil
I

am

now

Place.

the

after

The

give
and

the

gardens
of

the

shewn

writing,

with

following

Palace

expedition
of

Brussels

gaiety

to

the

We

Roy
to

old

the

view

handsome.
Place

and

bloodshed

Malines,

or

of

siege

disastrous

of

flat,
road

The

scene

first
air

an

were

The

quite

head-quarters

seeing

his

on

Brussels.

landlady,

is

famous

Mechlin

and,

in

in

peaceful

once

decided

Flandres,"

the

the

fancy

built

and

the

was

during

Passed

well

for

country

winch

by railway

English-looking.

Gerard

war.

left

of

cup

comfortable,

The

and

to

refreshing

very

are

own.

Boulevards
seem

in which
the

of

after

morning

Berchem.

reached

houses

to

of

Napoleon

we

Hotel

our

manufactory

where

striking.

to

surround

horrors

and

carriages

strange

now

lace

Moscow,

into

of

tage,
advan-

great

fine

the

is

subject

Suisse."

space

Next

rest.

general

which

orchards

room

"

but

specimens

to

saw

the

vast

cultivated,

village

It

Antwerp.

is

and

French

the

to

equal

the

traverses

to

we

enjoyed

hotel,

railway

respect
pretty

and

the

to

lait, retired

uu

every

of

the

fine

are

which

that

through

returned

Brussels.

but

There

is

Mary"

''Bouquet;"

loveliness,

great

much

of

sounds.

We

cafe

have

his

painting

fine

very

to

picture

next

Ascension

called

intelligence of
we

pealing

organ

"

soldier

Roman

has

feeling

The

:"

The

master,

the

to

Cross

feelings.

Rubens's

by

thanks
left

one's

to

the

other.

faces

the

God."

of

chef d'ceuvres,

the

of

of

Son

such

some

caused

the

the

to

fancies

which

Elevation

inferior

repugnant

One

as

her

upon

cry

also,

him.

approaching

of

act

the

large

ale

drove

and,

pretty,
window

morning

city,
to

after

cheerful

looking
visited

the

INTRODUCTION.

Cathedral.
without

beautiful

arc

enchantment

like

through,

brightly
the

on

the

the

old

building
miserable

which

again

people
of

they

the

group

bringing

into

kneeling

were

whole

It

leaves

from

radiance
of

kneeling
and

light
of

not

look

life

the

vast

the

at

infant

truly

was

and

colour

the

and

colours

centre

I could

Virgin

shone

sun

sunset

but

the

chief

cast

now

The

arches.

figures

tinsel

before

and

with

rilled

was

tinting

marble,

time-worn

grey

This

glass

something

imaged

the

and

on,

scene

stained

brilliant

the

the

blood-red.

statue,

now

farther

white

pure

figures,

was

of

the

had

side

one

amidst

gems

yards

window

next

on

few

flowers.
the

like

pillars were

On

reflections

the

and

of

around

cast

effect,

their

in

Yet

windows

but

rich,

very

Antwerp.

tints

varied

the

building,

The

imposing.

and

of

elegance

very

was

|"ile of

massive

elaborate

the

entering

on

is

It

Jesus

painful

sight.
Rhine

The
stood
but

lift

to

before

such

as

tint

is

on

the

peaceful

majestic
blessing
in

as

Byron's
'"

pass

now

at

least

the

looked

and

There

having

can

mind

as

be

no

farewell

poplar

is coloured

it

were

by thy
traced

It
rich
the

on

of

scene

every

its

this

at

the

Rhine,

like

its
few

more

is

one

mellow
nearer,

while

groves,

making

course,

to

all

write

to

hills,

fully appreciate

in

villages, nestling

and

onward

it

possible, still

upon.

studded

I have

moment,

memory.

wood-clad

distant

its

of

page

hitherto

this

if

order,

exquisite description

The

And

in

sweeps

they

behold

vineyards

among

river

to

out, in

lands

meadow

paper

determined

have

scene

not

at

have

We

us

I write

the

going

this

as

from

have

east

and

eyes

again

fix

to

swelling

line

my

beauty.

vividly

and

its banks

beside

glowing
lines

is before

Rhine"

beautiful

the
"

calm
the

waves

that

moment

"

thine,

line."'

mental

sketch

in

these

[NTRODUCTION.

few

I must

words,

On

passing

the

of

some

For

Jologne.

Louvain

At
Ville.

the

liege

the

de

Hotel

passing
itself

lies in

hops

seems

The

line

with

from

out

to

the

amidst

homes.

smiling
and

The

ensued.
miserable

so

it'

the

even

and

was

hissing

(Merman

there

Yet

pushing,

beast.

the

in
elbow

scene

accommodation
Of

dust

and

and

had

prepared.

were

midst

the

of

of

huge

full

which

German,

alternative
with

screaming
an

hour
such

came

with

for

crammed,

women

was

stale

relief

combined

half

Then

few

was

the

was

and

wait

to

lay

tobacco,

men

which

managed

it

Outside

it.

carriages,

and

course

for

these

on

confusion

which

on

riant

refreshing,

out

wretchedly

most

scene

change

of

the

of

we

the

large

spires, looking

look

to

table,

steam-engines,

of

carriages

by
wild

clouds

sun,

had

one

in

remaining

no

the

all

is

weariness

thirst, and

broiling

with

room,

biscuits, was

heat,
there

tiring

we

of

picturesque

peculiarly
to

the

vines.

varied

and

was

noise,

and

forget

soon

whole

little

and

cakes
our

not

it

Venders

At

shall

heat

and

tall

rich

Vesdre,

streams,

with

and

through;

dust

is

It

has
northern

the

slopes, winding

nooks.

pass

of

of

quantity

house

graceful hanging
valley

town

sides

The

each

After

The

the

on

interesting.
un-

beautiful

the

Gothic.

gardens.

here

the

is very

interesting.

village churches,

sheltered

railway

richest

the

to

heat

the

and

of

glimpse

railway

Liege

to

country

and

these

wooded

little

and

cottages,

of

the

in

slow,

scattered

villas

through

passes

champaign,

with

days.

was

becomes

scenery

attached

plantation

places

of

architecture

characteristic

our

caught

by orchards

hills, surrounded

two

notice

and

wrote,

last

The

we

valley,

last

progress

our

ist insufferable.

ahn"

dust

and

took

we

railway

of the

events

Brussels

leaving

where

to

return

almost
a

before

rushing
laid

beard

trate
pros-

like

INTRODUCTION.

The

continued

country

wooded

banks

became

cool

and

We

well.

deal

well

her

had

in

Prussian

examined.

and

were

civil

all

been
is
in

so

he
I

said;

called

the

second

trifle

into

therefore

nut

by

out

is

friends

Bah,

c'est

and

of these
this

bv

man's
wav

bags,

the

station

or

given

civil

very

bien, bien
us

dreaded

hand,
bribe,

\"

but
but

in

the

which
you

porter,
feet

Antwerp

to

all
of

get

free;

us

over.

reward

boxes

of

"

acquiesced

after

douanier,

helped

was

till

not

to

at

ticket, declared

searches

and

where

at

and

gesticulated

ca,

round

Prussian

successful

so

We

ticket,

infallibly deposited

device

giving

of

yourself,

with

the

at

vants
ser-

good.

luggage

your

boxes

your

trunks,

the

of

accommodatingly

together,

things

all

the

ments
arrange-

railing

nine,

The

very

with

were

between

foreign

seem

first

we

matters.

The

room,

number

practised

"

tor

the

after

soon

contrast

luggage

which

of

the

is

Cologne

station

conducting

large

everything

most

She,

longed

It

to

confusion.

or

into

booked

with

of

way

each

on

I made
I

good

mentioned

seven.

Cologne

to

railway

to

The

turn

owTier.

which

about

were

we

surprised

midst,

then

whom

all

got

into

put

booked,

so

shewn

brought.

and

We

regard

the

in

were

as

hustle

no

"

spare

but

Belgian

and

in

with,

met

jects.
sub-

well.

quite

and

me,

French

lived

had

was

various

on

she

1 have

delighted

agreeably

Prussian

whom

Aix-la-Chapelle

search,

not

dear

knew

others

found

carriage

speaking

conversation

it

reached

We

were

and

which

hear

to

things

other

terms

of

the

in

but

German,

same

advanced

evening

lady

the

glassy river, with

the

As

One

deal

good

several

as

on

pools.

then

of

all

pretty,

and

now

refreshing.

Mannheim,

at

as

its

every

shady

and

Amongst

and

extremely

agreeable, evidently

very

has

with

character,

sunny

'.'

was

his

in
our

and

slipped
over,
civilitv.

10

INTRODUCTION.

A
the

cathedral,

our

however

grand

this

cathedral

while

is

internal

magnificent
beauty

in

an

ruin

contributed

is

the

The

The

buttresses,
produce
Some
of

them

in

side

which
these
first

earliest

next

Cologne."
brought

there

and

but

the

presents

of

date

total

in

stupendous
all

around,

the

mind.

discovered
The

1410.

of

great

one

colours

peculiar

disregard

destroys,

tiful.
beau-

upon

also

is

singularly

softness

perspective

in

one's

measure,

of them.
the

visited
The

the

1508,

of

been

recently

splendour
in

gilding

effect

dazzling

productions

appreciation

We

and

choir

The
of

the

finished

when

range

colouring

bears

chapel

pleasing

is

double

are

of

original

executed

north,

yearly

be

the

vision

very

the

have

will

that

is

tion.
comple-

and

out

said

It

has

architecture.

the

Prussia

carry

quaint devices,

and

surprisingly vivid,

are

is

brilliant

paintings

old

very

it
in

and

wondrous

Gothic

height,

the

and

it be

of

windows

great

to

feel

to

remained

having

effect

the

and

noticed.

restoration

its

for

unable

was

of

King

may

Peter's"

one

After

what

Well

hues

rich

the

seen,

architecture

already

contemplated

finished

painted

their

with

present.

realize

to

St.

only part
five

at

towards

are

"

the

be

others

the

sum

architect.

of the

it will

large

which

I for

yet

to

describe

to

its gorgeous

of

centuries,

is difficult

towers

plan

state

for

It
vast

that

interesting

almost

admire

fortable.
com-

very

have

we

any

and

proceeded

we

difficult

most

decorations,

I did

as

the

and

Of

here.

perhaps

allow

all must

its

of interest

object

beds

to

lishment,
estab-

Antwerp

the

breakfast,

after

morning,

large

of

found

and

slept well,

is

It

comforts

little

close

Germanie,

it.

choosing

the

we

the

In
the

for

reason

Hotel

the

to

us

without

but
Brussels

took

omnibus

capital

legend
to

our

"

is,
Lord

Shrine
that
at

of

the

these

were

Bethlehem.

Three

of

Kings

the

magi

The

shrine

who
is

12

INTRODUCTION.

the

board

steamer

immediately
castled

Rhine/'

winding
scene

often

so

Coblentz.

on

leaving

Tli-'

One

which

is

its

romantic

o'er

It

The

road

in

describe

wide

gazing
tales

and
the

on

connected

notice.

The

On

the

the

from

of

view

the

of

the

of

base

the

castle

cannot

of

castle

to

Rheineck

the

in

bend

is

There

objects

the

on

dernach"

is

quarries
beauty

not

of

in the

of

of

stone

scenery

but

after

until

passing
"

near

it

it, is
outline

this

there

you.

"An-

spot.

singular

two

is

where

and

picturesque

for

loblentz"

river,

from

of

remarkable

town,

the

craggy

away

the

height,

foreground,

sweeps

at

of

passing

its bold

than

each

one

of

some

great

after

combination

Rhine

the

old

quaint

it

as

beautiful

more

whole

river

the

is

as

were

which

banks

bright

early

as

without

of

the

banks.

tedious

Rheineck

with

the

view

rock

hotel,

appearance.

pass

Just

grandeur.

"

graceful

of

lovely points

Drachenfels,

the

be

lived

that

so

he

now

along

would

It

two

Nonnenwerth,

is

Romans,

of

decay,"

whilst

it winds

perpendicular

distance

blue

or

one

venerable

in

last

but

of

external

and

here.
the

proud

convent

as

by

road

situation

striking.

stands

laid

in

bnmured,

The

from

interesting

Convent

was

here

grey,

also

arch,

its situation

in

succession

in

revealed,

wooded

bride

of

bowers."

and

the

on

visible

was

moment

the

the

towers

walls

vintage

noble

castle.

were

there

161,

most

down

the

becomes

foundations

a.d.

in

the

were

feudal

frequent

of

"

the

is

picturesque

most

the

minutes

o'er

reading

lift their

vale

betrothed

hermit

lonely

this

looks

Roland's

where

it

when

gins
be-

scenery

few

we

particularly beautiful,
story,

Rolandseek.

haves

green

Looking

to

and

pictured by fancy

Through

Its

In

frowning

"

us,

"

but

Bonn.

before

was

Rhine

real

it.

witli

The

Drachenfels,

of

erag

for

peculiar

no

it

seems

to

13

[NTRODUCTION.

afresh

burst
the

with

day

with

upon

an

excellent

we

dined.

so

In

The

lofty rocks,

calmly
which

We

of

had

hitherto

of

the

to

be

river,

the

suddenly
rocks

castles

rear

mind

back

very

finest

Braubach.

o'clock,

here

scenery

mountains

their

sombre

There

have
is

in
a

narrow

on

the

and

yet
small

it,

Coblentz.
Instead

vineyards,
the

to

and

black

and

water,

barbarous

banks
appear

you

defile;

the

the

"lzenfels, and

beauty

upon

soon

were

hanging

of

against

masses

times

feudal

scenes

shadows

their

and

around

and

softness

into

How

entirely changes.

close

transported
cast

to

such

given

St"

landscape

slopes, smiling meadows,

sunny

which

the

of

character

the

of

Moselle,

nine

at

flowing

Rhine,

Chartreuse.

the

drive

grandest

sparkling

Ehrenbreitstein,

of

features

beautiful

the

morning

next

of

base

evening's

that

losing sight

rapidly

the

at

blue

the

feet

Ehren-

the

magnificent

the

the

ascended

is

Rhine,"

the

situated

forts,

we

as

of

magnificent.

the

is

very

Rhine

enjoyed

started

other

your

view,

the

to

Constantine

of

these

of

more

of

side

one

at

the

joins

intensely

The

and

on,

and

Gibraltar

the

On

The

more

"

the

hreitstein,

height

and

immense.

are

became

Chartreuse,

feature.

size

river.

the

part

Forts

whilst

drove

liacre, and

the

reached

we

certainly;

of

and

commended
re-

ground-floor,

view

town,

been

playing
the

the

the

stale

band

is on

of

hired

we

fortifications,

Alexander.

gigantic

none

through

Passing

extensive

on

landed

write, had

now

however,

with

evening

the

of

Chartreuse.

and

who

brother,

capital

room,

noise

the

all

cool

the

private

Our

is on

It

with

table-d'hote.

have

we

parties.

both

to

which

from

Greant,

dii

Hotel

The

during

Coblentz.

at

us

acquaintance

her

girl and

English

nice

made

had

We

yon.

cipitous
pre-

frowning

sky, carrying
ages.

beheld

was

soon

town

with

One
after

chateau

the

of the

leaving
at

the

14

INTRODUCTION.

water's

side.
and

rock,

this

on

perfect

most

old
seem

of

sweep

their

while

shade,

Just

as

this

we

village

and
castle

the

in

Marksburg,
the

and

fell

light

of

gleam

that

so

all

rock

rugged

with

exquisite pictures,
it

perfect,

next

place

vast

fortress

St.

character.

with

in

force
of

his

sight

with

and

sister

army

is
the

by

increased
is the

Caub

of

the

on

it that

new

his

One

stream.

hand
a

dark

the

spot

burst

1814.
forth

of

those

to

make
The

with.

has

and

who

to

after

ing
leav-

awful

rocky

barriers

the

and

At
the

on

other

rocks,

its bed.

one

in

closing
an

was

to

go

quite

crossed

in

travelling-

then

sunken

into

quite

but

by

It

the

by

mentioned,

were

of

Blucher

year's night,
soldiers

over

narrowness

where

one

extent,

of

itself,

overhung

black

whirlpool,
dashing

ruin

striking

part

old

height

precipitous,

these

are

stream

by

and

the

another

old

was

already

and

edge,

pleasant

our

most

wild

so

water's

meets

great

continues

upon

everything

Goar,

Rheinfels,

see

rocks

bank

formed

to

either

On
one

village
with

of

sides

beneath

part

scenery

the

Goar,

both

rapid,

Goar
The

Wiesbaden.

on

to

St.

"

at

St.

of

is of

It

brother

the

is

interest

had

we

It

moment

glowed

the

dark

it stands.

for

Rheinfels.

of

companions
landed

much

of

the

combination

sometimes

one

Here

ruins.

which

them.

moment

behind

light, save

beneath

leaving

yet

somed
embo-

above

the

to

same

mountains

was

on

the

At

the

on

shoots

sunshine

opposite

shade.

deepest

spire

which

village

nestling

cottages

an

Another

them.

pretty

stretching

bank

wooded

the

upon

walls

scale

brightest

its meadows

upon

"

the

and

could

church

tall

ideal

ivy

white

of

beau

loopholes,

the

Marksburg,

of

very

view

conical-shaped

high

and

into

are

passing,

were

the

brought
There

trees.

is the

It

but

castle

noble

Rhine.

river

the

in

is the

nought

of

foot

its battlements

though

as

the

at

rock

the

on

with

castle,

stands

It

the

Rhine

coming

simultane-

15

INTRODUCTION.

ous

"The

cry,

thai

all

on

fitted

is the
the

Rheinstein

around

beautifully

reaching

of

heights,

terraces

in

carry

up

The

value

that

drop

places
who

man

her

to

sundry

knee

saluer

her

far

from

of

hers.

before
Madame

To

her,

and

my

mother,

as

in return,

We

had

various
her

them
to

when
his

her

the

hand
In

the

and

lending

returned

old

course

met

gentleman

said,

"

remained

with

had

J'ai

of

me

tion
conversa-

about

walking

he

To

kind,

extremely

he

young

assistance, which

subjects.
was

about

as

lady.

of

mother

surprise

kissing

son

ber.
Novem-

well

deal

great

purpose.

pleasing

was

along,

went

those

even

infirm

little

some

we

whilst

old

an

to

shoulders.

until

as

remarkably

who.

la Duchesse."

subject,

to

also

the

for

beginning

this

on

rendered

lady

made

not

forced

and

that

great,

so

successive

their

on

yards
vine-

thought

are

ropes,

baskets

forks

from

| is.

by

is

vintage

discussing

old

in

with

son.

ma

vine-dressers

here

his

officer, saying

veteran

friend

not

soil

he

like

rock,

name

the

see

might

of

its

gives
to

and
stein
Rhein-

Opposite

what

wood

restored

been

strange

It

of rich

which

sometimes

the

the

thing

and

the

as

notice.

masses

has

ledges
The

up

have

to

every

was

of

grapes

dinner,

sitting by

tops

Rhine,

gratify

hooks

after

very

escorting

was

explaining

that

the

happened

seemed

is

information

my

on

It

rocks

long,

very

all

have
well

as

our

residence.

narrow

picked

are

hang
I got

the

these

of

modern

part of

great

castle

wine.

on

the

of

with

rock,

mountain.

the

face

not

should

reverence,

Assmanshausen,

the

to

inaccessible

the

of

This

as

up

Rhine

famous

scale

does

one

river

attracted

next

it.

village

cut

of

object

an

projecting Ledge

and

They

truly

Grermans.

of

castle

behind

to

and

beautiful

and

Buch

ages

the

affection, to
The

bounteous

this

through

stands

Rhine!"

"

wonder
been

the

Rhine

an

with
bent

rhonneur
conversation

so

old
a

his

de

l(i

INTRODUCTION.

little

some

time

Prince

le

Nassau."

de
in

building
Due

Ave

All

saw,

After

"

he

le

belonged
consin

mon

while

C'est

whom

to

c'est

pointed
de

palais

I could

de"

regnant

little

distance, saying,

the

ask,

to

"

palace

magnificent

happened

after,

out

frere

mon

catch

not

le

the

name,

....

from

married

was

that

he

much

that

of

of

Duke

and

as

the

to

evening

air,

myself

view

of

had

six

hours.
at

we

to

to

not

have

heard

its size

Vosges

for

out,

Mountains.

the

In
the

fresh
The

town.

D
is
of

The
is

picked

so

letters

till

Mannheim

to

It

palace.

beauty

there

and

diately
imme-

went

landing,

on

It

situation.

and

laid

much.

so

we

meeting.

our

writing

the

where

place

distinguished

tastefully
the

the

see

that

uninteresting

luggage
find

with

us

the

getting

passage,

the
most

breathe

of

morning

to

in

us

Hesse.

to

and

our

proceeded

me

from

Leaving

once

merely

next

quick

and

de

anything

see

deck

on

We

to

of

Hotel

quiet

is monotonous

Mayence

though

are

and

land

mutual

requested

half-past six,

late

which

imposing

pleasant

was

interesting

and

about

too

about

of

Mayence

to

overwhelmed

remembrance

it

occupied

and

little

teau
cha-

had

We

CI

by moonlight,

above

station,

Prince

out

dinner-time.
in

as

them.

the

some

invited

Duchesse

walked

for

scenery
I

cards

reached

We

le

M.

mother

see

la

Madame

exchange

might

and

frank,

were

had

we

was

manners

they

me

that

There

Biberich,

near

told

his

and

come

and

wishes,

good

he

to

friendly parting.

he

discovered

both

manner

drew

we

Nassau,

had

we

acquaintances,
kindest

As

His

him.

and

world,

sake.

he

that

me

the

in
her

for

about

pleasing

to

woman

people

English

very

announced

charming

unaffected.

the

He

German.

most

all

was

and

there,

the

to

loved

kindly,

of

ignorance

my

at

was

the
very

was

married,

fine

building,

architecture,

grounds
a

very

rose

fine
from

and

is

races
ter-

distant
one

of

17

[NTRODUCTION.

the

flower-beds,
home

's

We

which

Heidelberg,
tea

the

spans

in

readied
and

out,

in

having

my

for

time

the

visited

last

train

half-an-hour.

about
the

crossed

beautiful

behind

immediately

Neckar,

of

memento

as

returned

we

wandered

we

keep

to

to

After
which

bridge

The

Heidelberg.

air

and

balmy

was

we

much

were

in

while

front

the

into

invisible
ends

the

bridge,

solemn

arch
the

of

of

the

it.

above

had

We

glimpse

of

imagine

where

the

We

castle.
beheld.

never

almost

seems

in

reached.

might
over

too

But
reconcile

this

noble

in

amid

be,

might

the

hope

Our

of

fell
the

was

do

beyond

dark

rising

moonlight

nothing

than

more

shadows

of

notwithstanding,

ramble,

the

on

cathedral

getting

still

massive

passed

old

the

the

upon

now

had

we

could

but

castle,

astir
Such

to

speedily
one

and

to
most

the

from

for

even

contrived

carriage

nervous

carriage-road

Looking

our

impatient

morning,

next

impracticable

quadrupeds
not, being

here

come

of

along

the
was

one.

early

were

magnificent
I

roof

sombre

mountains.

pleasant

very

it

old
it

overhanging
a

the

which

many

figures, rising

these

all

cast

there

which

the
clear

the

by

placed

us,

Beyond

through

gateway,
and

walls,

forms.

it,

and

sculptured

the

behind

here

before

of

against

deeper

moonbeams

silvery

their

the

lines

tall

were

the

into

portion

upper

in

The

background

defined

only

Immediately

streets.

of

rendered

gloom,

fine

in,

back.

looking

just rising

was

closed

twilight

on

the

sharply

which

moon,

dim

scene

forms

outline

an

the

as

the

lights running

twinkling

and

which

with

lay

town,

and

with

struck

mountain

wooded

sky,

delicious,

my

open

had

to

much

impressive
B

How

scramble
till
that

perils.

ruin.

The

the
to

steepness
the

two

I know

up

the
the

visit

leading

its

bipeds.

eyes

greater

that

as

bottom

to

confess

to

summit

was

object gained
We

went

all

guide pointed

L8

INTRODUCTION.

the

out

which

the

the

Here

the

the

oldest

of

whose

and

gate

the

of

of

Frederick.

recalled
the

as

marked

triumphal

pillars

twined

of

her

bread

dry

Elector"

her

reply
the

at

and

she

table

had

is part

which

the

of

in the

last

brutality
butt

in

walls

through
from
on

the
my

is

world,

about

the

by

atrocious.

was

this

The
in

the

lovely

terrace, overhanging

memory.

The

do

feet

so

Neckar

"

Let

feast

before

thick.

cellar

below,

and

was

the

to

but

forth

in

the

this

Crown

me

that

rather
of

an

died.

Louis,

destroyed
whose
wine

having

preferred

we

good

largest

grounds.

river, was

flows

built

Chamilly,

tun,

the

its

Elector

It

under

marvel,

at

she

by

were

with

been

accept

famous

woods

it

character,

built

French,

Bacchanalian

the

than

king,

twenty-two

are

of

been

remaining,

tower

bombardment

the

curiosity

of

of

was

have

to

esting
inter-

very

particularly

"

literally to

"

There

of

which

to

have

to

Elector

husband,

parts

seems

ing
build-

Princess

our

flower-garden,

hesitated

is said

Elector

describes

strength

husband

the

grand-daughter,

her

ivy leaves,

as

erection

English

many

own

There

well

as

her

to

marriage.

When

Bohemia,

eat

sculptured

ambition,

Princess.
of

with
her

commemorate

deal

leading

indeed

of the

by

I., and

she

home

ruined

which

for

1612,

of

ture
sculp-

ponderous

The

and

the

and

Burley, reading

at

arch

part

1300,

seen.

in

Princess,
the

finest

date

Scots,) by

when

this

of

is

of James

of

Queen

I remember

memoir

be

erected

Stuart, (daughter

the

in

The

1764.

of

Bavaria.

lightning,

building

both

were

Mary

of

is still to

statue

lies

facade

of

beautiful,

Tower

in

Elizabeth
course,

is

the

house

1549-59,

stroke

castle

part

Rudoph,

the

in

1607,

reigning

Henry,

Octagon
by

finally destroyed

the

architecture

The

occasioned

masses,

Otho

the

rich.

very

of

of

IV.,

of

statues

building

castle.

Frederick

by

ancestral

are

Then

built

part

One

no

dering
wan-

view

vividly impressed
from

its vine-clad

20

INTRODUCTION.

with

and
In

the. other
this

tilings

some

in

Nightingale
truth

more

The

villages,
rained
distant

views.

in

walls

of

every

respect.

below.

the

in

men

looked

under

whose

pilgrimage

our

consult

future

with

him,

engage

during

the

had

cause

we

native
way

of
of

fine.

his

to

weeks

many

regret

Leghorn.
in

There
Basle.

the

public

and

museum

able

of

honour

it

be

travelled
choice

of

is not
The
the

Ave

here

of

the

our

one

so

having
hood
brotherto

that

recorded,

once

never

Pancresi,
visited

be

cloisters

from

saAv,

much

him,

to

ancient
views

landlord

in

Ferdinando

much

pursue

determined

we

with

vet-

the

exceptionable

Accordingly,

first
a

to

fortunate

very

mur
mur-

Our

about

so

the

room

recommend

to

ourselves

we

our

which

of

our

for

sent

on

was

reach.

interesting,
In

he

thought

and

"sights"

are

matter

which

henceforth

Having

jabbering

and

inquire

purpose

Italy.

our

to

we

with

gentle

delightful

to

was

specimen

within

little

auspices

Ave

promising

put

not

the

lishment
estab-

base

the

into

It

at

room

the

horses,

court-yard

depended,

that

of

turesque
pic-

the

perfect

pretty

between

trampling

and

abode

washes

which

large

obscured

is

very

we

poplars.

our

up
This

tall

which

took

contrast

is

on

is

which

there,

of

way,

have

morning

him

comfort

decidedly,
such

the

towards

Lady

there

cultivated

and

groups

we

Rhine,

dingy

the

here

Rois."

We

the

that

in

care

turino,

and

think

Basle,

richly

the

Trois

the

Strasbourg,

at

anxious

to

river,

of

Basle

"Les

Certainly

the

by

part

hotel

enemy.
to

and

but

flat,

at

overhanging

of
of

latter

last

monument

but

vineyards

Arrived

magnificent

balcony

is

surrounded

the

heavily

the

this.

with

flax,

the

Strasbourg

railway,

of

of

me

between

by

of

approach

Abbey,

in

beauty

country

plantations

reminded

Westminster

and

traversed

the

avert

to

of

ten-ace

imagine,

some

in

the

the

dral
cathein

front
of

the

[NTBODUCTION.

Holbein's

of

best

with.
his

He

often

and

not

only
of

of

one

the

letters

from

Next
turino's

we

carriage

was

the

journey

in

by rocky

opening

in

out

the

then,

if

air

they

as

of

the

leaving
our

first

valley
are

darker

castle
and
amid

still

of

lies

plenty

village

gay

of

entered

we

in

closer,

to

the

and

on

pinnacled

of

upon

with
the

where
defile

rises
the

now

of

of

zerland,
Swit-

had

Ave

after
made
The

Klus.

but

the

grey

ruin,

rocks
the

mountains,

rocky

Just

an

gave

time

of

its memories

present.

melled
ena-

points

best

parts

beneath,
side

now

"

and

Some

romantic

one

top

treasures,

scene.

loveliness

imagination

loveliness

the

to

closed

fruit-trees, which,

golden

Waldenburg,

smiling

Falkenstein,

appealing
the

and

romantic

churches

most

on

day's

now

the

to

very

other

and

highly

and

in

himself

this

of

emeralds,

the

indeed

their

with

in

large

really

were

wood
as

vet-

auspiciously

valleys,

Villages

as

we

often

green

apple

were

sweet

and

with

now

halt,

here,

he

and

whole

The

Our

barouche,

that

wild

effect,

preserved.

eight.

secluded

with

much
Several

dawning

and

sweet

for

roads

richness

flowers.

planted

lined

are

Alps

meadows,

wild

The

picture.

laden

of

little

gay
as

think

picturesque

heights, fringed

with
and

the

and

succession

scenery.

to

like
life-

as

with

here

heavy,

morning

spirits rose

is

Melancthon.
are

the

portrait

own

easy

being

is

must

after

soon

without

Almost

looked

and

comfortable

lay through

length,

brilliant

Geneva

to

way

Luther

off

conception,

me

We

produce.

were

A
our

this

and

considerable

convenience

interested

when

even

his

rich,

met

ever

for

painter,

disagreeable.

are

really

of

I have

best

colouring

Basle,

could

of

morning

outset,

our

that

autographs

attentive.

most

in

art

each,

for

enough

liis

subjects,

pictures

as

pleasing

and
of

printer

the

on

me

choice

painting

interest

to

good,

his

first

on

is
his

the

pictures, certainly

is

execution

21

of
as

the
we

past,
were

INTRODUCTION.

in

opens

wider

!" and

Alps

summits.

Every
peculiar
one's

upon

have

that

to

view.

not

them

seen

of

I felt
The
and

country

but

fine

three
descent

to

through

top

of

the

city

bed

of

the

river.

ronne,"

whose

Berne

has

recent,

which

little

for

the

is

indeed.

the

pale

green

the

Alpine

the

city round,
We

bourg

the

our

the

then,
snowy

far

itself,its
their

above

chain

the
of

in
too

dark

its

course,
the

across

"

La

Cou-

but

is

no

by

origin

means

afternoon,

at

that
be

to

hills

it has

it

around

of

waters

and

past

spot,

soaring

to

the

on

winding

rocky

Alps

the

in

platform

Aar

or

flows

and

both

the

the

two

vetturino.

our

on

the

shews

journey
seven"

of

inn,

cathedral

from

river

which

half-past

The

view

sides

incident

recall

to

upon

Aar

thrown

to

ing,
even-

close

river

quiet

known

was

wooded

for

bend

nice

who

well-managed

The

been

stirring

valley

of

tinge

the

of

visit.

to

rush

to

interesting

The

snows

resumed
about

full

itself, but

rapid

"

has

till

and

sudden

well

was

traveller

in

grand

drove

We

it is

by

those

that

road

precipitous

very

hurst

richly

was

the

city.

first

pilgrimage.

my

long

lofty bridge

history

beautiful

feet

with

landlord
a

reach

sation
sen-

such

Soleure

day

skirts

trees

the

myself,

of

next

Alps

particularly striking

formed

For

day

through

you

ravine,

stands.

eventful

their

across

enable

reaching

on

picturesque

promontory,

it.

evening

recollect

could

"

ing
glitter-

soft

the

the

the

Alps
their

will

which

words

no

of

most

deep

in

an

not

then

this

The

resting

them

seen

this, that

avenue

and

miles,

"

into

clouds

comprehend

passed

we

cultivated,

Berne.

has

closing

was

again

country

distance

clear

and

moment

to

deep experience

my

far

snowy

believe

the

"

of

who

one

the

distinct

streaks

delicate

in

were,

up

where

exclaimed,

AY

they

shooting

few

defile

narrow

expanse,

there

peaks
air, a

the

from

emerging

your

liar
pecuamong

which

close

the

sky.

reaching

Fri-

into

distinguish

much

of

23

INTRODUCTION.

work

wonderful

that

the

into

leads

at

and

valley,

the

sky,

beneath,

and

the

but

for

equally

terrestrial

ourselves

moving

this

wondrous
the

on

the

valley,

to

distant

Menai

composed

are

constructed

together

This
of

horses,

from

brought
St.

our

walk,

thence

looked

forcing

ascended

we

its way

down

by

the

green

by

through

channel

rocks

and

succession

to
to

all

on

of

head

the

little
the

refresh
the
the

yard,
churchgraves,

each.

tinuing
Conand

sloping bank,

rapidly descending
deep

the

determine.

stopping

the

at

bound

secures

afternoon

planted

placed

cross

terminated

flowers

but

these

and

wTays

the

latter

former

foot, first visiting

on

with

the

in

length

the

in

where,

onwards

the

support

throughout

us

Denis,

height,

and

initiated

the

this

rival,

principles,

characterized

lovely spot,
wooden

let

length

beautiful

length

laid

wires

across

way

distinguishes

while

iron,

mechanical

strength,

wandered

little

abruptly
torrent

Chatelle

we

"

of

scenery,

of

village

of

upon

day's route,

beautiful

and

of bundles

amount

greatest

of

bars

curve

interminable

which

chains

The

shewed

Standing

half

about

less

its greater

fancied

have

sweeping

which

no

other

and

aspect.
the

seemingly

its

only

solid

which,

fog

from

art

is not

of

are

dense

peculiarity

construction.

its

its

The
of

work

Bridge,

also

in

hiding

space.

springs,

in
from

shining

morning

strange

in

head

whip,

Next

it

which

sight

thus

spheres

another

in

from

the

lost

beautiful

the

an

lies

town

might

we

the

by

and

over

stars

Ferdinando's

accompaniments,
among

terrace

other

like

of

crack

the

twinkling

were

below

the

of

Part

spans

feet,

hundred

two

stars

lights

bridge

was

in

the

bridge

immense

hundred.

nine

as

This

than

more

of

stretch

unbroken
this

of

height

occasioned

darkness, however,
it.

crossing

in

which

Bridge,

Suspension

the

art,

The

town.

peculiar effect
valley

of

of

stones,

grassy
mid
now

slope,
dashinghid

by

24

INTRODUCTION.

the

large

and

brightly
rocks

of

cottages

savage

crags

turn

round

sight

of

"

white

It

was

which

that

few

of

the

part

rocky

mountains

valley,

in

towering

beneath

lay

entranced,

the

if

passed

to

say

into

snow-capped

on

shade
"

mountain.

of

one,

then

and

bright
As

roseate

we

for

long

"

belt

hue

looked,

threw
another

snowy

and

far,

"

gazed

we

utterance,
and

brief

after

the

across

the

rock

over

the

leave

to

for

deep

sky

of

As

too

by

The

loath

Leman

bank

pourtray

some

heaven,

upon

it, soared

radiance

one

on

was

like

toward

almost

hue

to
us

Alps.

it
be

in

yond
Be-

the

realize

though

above

to

of

upon

drawn

placid

them,

night

good

and

thoughts
cast

valley, resting

far

turn

Geneva

seen

hung

as

sublimity

clear

with

and

gradually

sun

calm

in,

it seemed

while,

gigantic mountain,

peak,

it

in

gold,

light poured

mist

close

Then, again,

of

me

opening

an

power

burst

flood

my

it must

had

pen

while

yet

thought

later

very

which

fair.

so

of

I covdd

ere

my

minutes

cloudless,

was

scene

Oh

have

and

on,

now

Lake

time

sudden

of burnished

plain

we

ment.
enjoy-

through

beauteous

little

looked

clouds.

scene

the

some

that

lower

as

"

below.

brought

road

seen

vast

highest peaks

the

truth,

in

was,

above

and

and

paces,

the

there,

like

sunbeams,

evening

mountain

the

Lake

and

hills, lay,

two

towered

far

the

Lake

of

part

and

woods

much

in

awliile

few

with

the

then

landscape

sunny

on

alone

to

between

the

wandered

we

projecting

The

the

on

hanging

and

the

whilst, higher still,black

"

out

the

them

frown

to

with

above,

greensward

along

bank

opposite

brushwood

"

call

of

rich

the

feet, covered

tufted

and

advanced
a

On

many

from

scenes

had

into

peeping

such

Amid

It

for

dancing

now

verge,

sunlight.

the

seemed

its

on

creeping plants

little

the

in

gaily

sloped back

surface

trees

perpendicular

rose

festoons

of

masses

all

its halo
and

wood

moment,
else
on

had
the

another

INTRODUCTION.

and

bright

left

and
wound

miles

of

and

quiet

sight

morning,

truth,

it is
this

o'clock

lake

the

all

the

wearing

After

remarkably
indeed

were

was

an

beautiful.

with

the

looking

man,

delighted

He

and
gave

is

clear
out

the
and

seats

with

in

the

steps leads

manner

peasants
costiune.

with

church,

pidpit,
The

and

minister
manner,

prayer
of

and

sat

the

His

to

Seats

we

the

pronunciation.
psalm

gigantic

admirable

an

old

the

"

service.

whole

fine

looking

picturesque

near

two

and

here

old

tains
moun-

church.

people,

large

had

We

organ.

the

stands

of

of

In

climbing

the

with

flight

in

About

After

lake,

blue

deep

those

reached

hats
It

for

mirror

trees, and

together

entered.

good

voice,

the

broad-brimmed

we

the

shall

reading
its

chestnuts,

of

love

to

sunshine.

Church.

of which

under

beside

the

hill, we

part

After

; and

be

to

this

spots I have

Long

shrine

venerable

centre

gathering

intellectual

musical

in

to

got

I learnt

brilliant

directly opposite.

along

their

such

steep

in

the

in

while

"

all

placed

watched

up

and

since

stood

Protestant

loveliest

Midi

de

platform,

are

the

the

upon

Dent

to

fortunate

of those

and

breeze

several

o'clock.

here.

and

for

side,

loveliness.

spent

passed

grandeur.

stern

seven

one

some

then

most

ever

and

worthy

embosomed

building,
down

is

lane

winding

alone

went

we

for

see

lake

gentle

fittinggem

the

to

in the

rippling

waters

by

went

we

to

have

we

been

at

are

majesty

Sunday

and

either

on

about

we

longed

Nature's

of
the

remember
the

Here
"

of and

cold

ray,

For

heights above,

hotel

comfortable

much

in

having
the

reaching

our

continued

vineyards

Vevav,

parting

colouring

scene

heights

with

September.

so

the

awful

way,

most

Vevay,
heard

exquisite

the

caught

intense

same

entering

before

had

unseen,

the

the

our

hour

the

now

this

moments

away,

"

with

glowed

We

till

summit,

distant

the

was

Scotch

26

INTRODUCTION.

Church
mellow
one

the

Psalms,

was

language,

he

to

reach

the

admired.

all
and

prayer
devotional

the

in

recall

that

Vevay

of

regicide, and

the

and
under

glow,
gold

the

the
from

suspended
its

"

clear

blue

seemed

to

the
oar

But
Of

not

hath
that

beam,

part

which

of
is of

water,

air,

nor

being,

was

"

leaf

nor

and
Creator

all

an

we

lovely

its

while,

death

to

of

The

wing
visible
in

to

After

music

evening

Defence."

the

down

went

hull

is lost,

them
We

exile.

beach.

sense

and

memory

of

distilling drops

be

It

glittering blade.
Where

of

of

Ludlow

noiseless

with

outline

graceful

of

surface

mirror

arms

at

of

the

to

the

on

his

land.

in

of

and

will

own

and

listened

and

especially for

platform

rippling

liquid

the

us,

the

The

Church

sentence

obscurity

and

sat

gently
the

in

with
the

tombs

the

read

from

view

waves

repassed

who

many

solemn

church

our

the

so

an

words.

up

ascend

saw

such

to

see

Often

in

well

as

Scotland,

the

mentioned

here

there

skimming

the

died

in

will

and

to

of

blessing.

prayer

and

manner

people

Broughton,

and

murmuring
bark

his

church,

They

enjoying

shore,

the

as

listen

stood

word

felt

equally

minister

impressive

are

the

I.

the

simple,

to

to

of

was

calculated

faithful

reminded

every

Every

be

was

were

so

was

and

all churches"

Charles

sermon

pronounced

round

again

sometimes

and

"

the

when

pastor

it

these

on

for

pure,

to

sermon

foreign tongue,

peculiarly

and

Scotland,

was

intently

then

home,

dear

own

walked

in

after

and

It

in

well

was

deep

text, which

sermon.

and

delightful, too,

dwelling

psalm

admirable

heart,

others.

foreign land,

hundreds

when

his

the

then,

and

the

congregation,

singing,

out

an

gave

Peculiarly

in

raised

of

hearts

the

given

from

come

the

leading

After

join.

pleasingly

most

sung

organ

to

seemed

was

the

seemed

forcible

my

of

notes

from

one

which

service,

the

quiet
passed
even

the

sunset

of

molten

2S

INTRODUCTION.

makes

It

the

blood

beast

stand

to

"

steps

of

the

his

by

Chillon

"

And
Until

For

of

he

Canton,
beloved

they

to

lives

cast

Grod

long

to

that

could

inflict
with

assented

little

our

were

pray

our

tyranny

spare

way

The

Bex.
for
so

walked

I
such
near

the

almost

in

only

of

valley
the

to

preparations
as

places

the

of

could

and

that

power

his

torture,

of

help

not

should

we

the

by

found

but

that

be

should

we

religion

She

its opponents.

feeling.

apparent

of

ray

tinuing
Con-

passed

we

Which

entered

only

victoiy gained

upon

and

earnestness

The

upon.

these

like

almost

adds

tomb

other

from

us

living

peaceful times,

tortures

much

God

to

efface,

thankful

how

guide

to

death

"

liberated

dwell

to

such

living

sod,

marks

the

on

some

saw

in

years

this

place.

himself

The

little

my

very

face

one

in

"

and

this

mournful

We

horrible

too

are

remarking
our

free.

country

weaiy

long

trod

those

in

only

not

was

by

trace,

were

none

from

the

to

'twas

for

pavement

brothers

two

the

depth

place,

left

recollection, that,

is the

comfort

but

his

and

holy

have

Way

appeal

they

take,

wild

"

cold
!

six

altar

an

steps

if the

melancholy

deeper

floor

very

as

is

prison

Bonnivard

By

death

some

for

man

fellow-men

thy

to

ened
fast-

like

column,

stone

pillar.

which

ring

very

wwn

could

his

Worn,

The

unhappy

sad

thy

stone

he

the

see

huge

very

all that

were

inflicted

was

the

to

the

to

on

pacing

constant

cold

Bonnivard's

to

came

we

run

fellow-creature

Three

onwards

passing

and

hand,

to

for
cast

the

its

did

Rhone.

as

smile,

view,"

windows
tea

isle,

Evening
of

the

giant

our

place
shadow

brought
whilst

room

afforded,
on

me,

us

to

waiting
and
rose

there
the

[NTRODUCTION.

"

mighty
which

often

early

have

scenes

morning,

next

grand

more

At

bridge
This

is at

frontier

the

of

Canton
shew

position

"

Dent
"

the

its

to

and

in

An

the

narrowest

these

stupendous

every

turn.

visible

the

as

it is well

of

the

itself

"

and

Midi"

de

through

the

The

high

twigs.
and

houses

the

top

of

were

the

assuming

desolating

pine
road

into

was

of

effects
in

enormous

by

it.
blocks

that

We
of

crag

walled

in

by

forms

at

are

yet

torrent

of

mud,

from

the

sides

1835,

for

as

tions
fortifica-

Mamice

the

of

far

so

the

are

the

impetuously

It forced

valley.

covered

by

different

forest, snapping

overwhelmed

debris,

the

other

on,

from

descended,

which

termed,

defile

distance

of

precipitous

travelled

we

base

rushes
a

the

wild

strange

project

crowns

of

hours

miles'

few

awful

Dent

castle

mountains,

At

rocks

to

best

very

the

by
the

on

the

bridge

the

the

of

which

river

part

For

side.

either

on

the

old

bed.

and

bold

whose
for

room

markable
re-

and

the
in

duty,

features

side,

one

on

Vaud
on

literally supported

Midi,"

leave

narrow

above,

es"

de

Dent

scarcely
in

Morel

de

frontier

the

peculiar

is

bridge

The

the

kingdom."

de

delayed

were

pay

the

seeing

for

We

and

passports

our

scene.

Vallais.

Canton

the

between

pass.

place, strongly fortified,being

small

is

unlocks

and

the

narrows,

key

golden

wilder
of

on

First

the

bosom

suddenly
"

in

up

rise

sun

became

the

into

got

village.

bathed

when

me

the

little

scenery

arch

whose

over

town

the

The

mind

Having

of.

was

valley

the

Maurice,

St.

another

day.

before

up

the

the

in

by seeing

around

all

penetrated

where

part

one

rewarded

then

we

as

risen

impressions

those

linger

to

imthought

was

breaking

of the

beams

of

one

why,

been

and

peak

snowy

one

was

mountain

heights

stupendous

the

It

knows
dark

that

has

brighter

!"

scarce

one

seem,

and

Midi

de

Dent

29

largest

900
saw,

feet,

like

trees

and

still

limestone

for

passage

fields

lying
of

many

on

30

INTRODUCTION.

tons'

avalanche.

resistless

of

the

Rhone
the

feet, but
a

fine

the

from
last
of

body

summer

spot

lovely

after

exchanging

whose

kindly

reaching

the

evening.

could

not

ere

before

villages

with

fine

roaring
a

huge

Is

it

even

with

route,

en

in

early

the

ankle,

my

in

myself
like

seems

shall

we

and

peasants,

occupy

It

our

given

was

sprained

therefore

again,

the

Sion,

at

point.

spare

again

were

having

and

it

"

have

dream

the

crossed

struck

nests

Close

basin
but

water

of
a

Tourtemagne,

to

to

walk

it

before

rocks

is

from

it
the

larger body

of

Sion
of

at

comes

fall.

water,

inn,

It

is

the

of

the

so

traordinary,
ex-

to

access

little town,

lanes, overhung
and

not

falling

you

In

sight.

in

of

seven.

many

pretty

through

the

by

have
a

off

height

inhabitants

the

romantic

trees, leads
the

how

marvels

side,

bosom
left

situation

mountain's

the

on

the

witnessed

very

off from

were

with

the

where

from

We

Brieg.

to

have

we

in

been

continue

I must

that

so,
have

and

scenes,

waterfall

Sallenche,

out

in

scattered

of

we

d'Or,"

I write

got

we

fruit

Lion

du

this

But

one

passed,

to

eagle's

!"

bien, bien, bonjour

is
in

pitched

with

salutation

It

resting-place,

day

is 280

beautiful

there

even

valley

120.

and

bright

have

not

friendly

him,

particularly

was

than

mid-day

our

had

to

unequalled

day

is

Hotel

is

the

height

Its

the

journey

our

into

more

content

we

they

as

Monday.

Alps

their

Journal

my

Alps

the

many

is not

was

walked

that

Milan,
those

but

Bonjour,

"

up

fancy

mighty

"

time,

descends

spray

well

accompany

bringing
to

could

smile

pleasant

the

Martigny

we

for

tabernacle

fall

the

and

water,

sun.

so

of

part

of

part

ravine.

of

surface

the

on

this

which

black

narrow

in

object

fine

Sallenche,

of

corks

like

floated
A

waterfall

the

was

had

which

weight,

so

in

the

hear
centre

high
most

as

the
of
the

graceful

31

INTRODUCTION.

the

sun's

and

wood

of

plank

our

on

She

back.
in

as

Brieg

to

way

had

caused
rise

and

both

on

rocks

been

after

we

left

some

fears

for

the

we

take

to

pierce

the

akin

detained,

to

night

say
to

how

immense

have

been

It

reached

in

dark

Ferdinando's

days,

even

crossing
often
if

I got

the
up

possible,

early

fate

the
Ave

route
to

were

rooms

with

fortless
com-

feeling

who

some

woidd

first
was

us

dirty gloomy

The

It
the

Not

Brieg,

hamlet, by

mountains.

our

if
a

of

wretched

what

I listened

through

it.

approached

as

and

stones

mountains,

account

this

in

of

rain, giving-

to

street.

that

so

the

prostrate

from

truly

Brieg

narrow

laid

trees

removed

seemed

and

together

piles

dark

scenes

stone,

miles

we

our

on

and

began

side

dress.

of

As

the

day.

to

ascertain,

it

morrow.

special degree,

for

unpropitious

road

Swiss

through

the

of

my

proceeded

mud

mine

word

by

passing

For

and

away,

the

We

despair

to

been

river.

out, amid

next

"Poste,"

in

the

eventful

clouds.

hotel, the

of

Tourtemagne

pointed

were

avalanches

which

up

long

Ferdinando

by

of

sides

and

then

and

swept

heaped

are

Tourtemagne,

now

every

consequent

bridges

left

some

in
a

little

funny

looking

hand

trotted

child,

bring

to

us

passed
a

understand
she

as

her

in

and

be

little

little

brought

girl,and

not

reply

sent

with

her

put

could
in

smiled

we

"

desolation,

the

She

sabots,

o'clock

two

she

smile,

she

wooden

her

At

with

it,is

must

flaxen-haired

little

pretty

that

old,

years

barren

woman

silver, she

no

four

tiling, about

but

French,

with

had

we

those
to

young

rivulet

amid

turn

narrow

in

its greatest

But

thing

looking

across

satisfaction.

entire

with
my

return,

face

my

the

nice

put

was

life-like

only

reaching

to

toddling

little

of

the

colours

thousand

distance.

great

"

whence

from

cottage,

to

cast

before

Just

rocks.

up

is

rays,

with

glittering

spray,

is in situation

charm

the

while

curve,

to

had

weather
cult
diffi-

be
of

part
be

the

32

INTRODUCTION.

Before

had

we

the

Simplon.

The

the

steep
of

door

very

we

very

excellent, everywhere

high

stones

of

at

turning

sweep,

and

horn,

then

It

Calvary.

which

catch

Saltine

that

the

at

al "yss,

fathomless
not

which

we

of

glaciers, far,

the

in

looked

clouds

vapoury

the

seemed
feet
we

The
crosses

This

of

road
the

part

bends

ere

some

round

by

of

wild

the

the
a

of

ice

beauty
valley

lofty bridge
ravine

is

and

of

the

called

subject

the

first

to

Pont

we

with

sight
bright

above

the

at

the

instant.

every

du

very

Upwards

Ganther

"

into

incredible
be

at

torrent

and

snow

opening

could

feelings

How

should

we

mist

which

sky

them.

this

gazing

clear

blue

mid-day

new

forget

the

of

the

be

the

as,

around

pyramids

with

heads,

pierced

hung

that

of

top

we

roaring waters,

shall

Breit-

the

there

to

wide

perpendicular

to

awe

our

they

sun,

Saltine

of

precipice

by

the

below,

kind

called

effect

and

seemed

sound

above

dazzling

slowly crept,

We

Never

far

of

the

us

is

sharp

the

of

to

here

depth

as

shrines

side

we

road

makes

The

parts

mysterious

down.

that

idea,

those

immense

the

only

was

the

white

Saltine.

great

other

hill, on

heightened

bottom.

gave

morning

the

it

and

could

see,

the

over

of the

glimpse

the

masses

densely

so

of

respects,

some

little

approaches

gorge

in

hung

sides,

in

was,

of

string

again

the

overhanging
place

and

the

with

towards

wooded

riage
car-

that

the

and

road

Glytzhorn
of

side

the

of

light

of

each

o'clock

passage

parts

wide,

the

fact, from

surface

Brieg

the

five

the

some

from

leaving

the

by

chapel,

distance

from

away

passing

is

which

after

by

in

at

feet

thirty

yards'

Soon

parapet.

of

few

and

with

anticipated

The

moving.

were

door

commences,

slowly

so

the

slowly dragged

which

hotel,

rain,

long

horses

ascent,

at

no

our

four

the

felt

scarcely

was

commenced

actually

up

there

that

intelligence

joyful

knocked

Ferdinando

daylight

until

Ganther."

avalanches

every

it

33

INTRODUCTION.

winter
to

the

give

this

passing
the

first

It

thus

alone

in

around,

and

of

Not

long

had

sensation
feel

the

of

earth

little world

of

calm

majesty,

such

force

the

remembrance

the

very

power,

lords

mighty
the

little

violet

and

more

than

hidden

this, who

of his

heads,

and
Near

part

of

the

the

is

creatures,

listening
the

who

in

to

fifth

ascent
"

they

who

same

its

leafy

by

nest

watching

ever

faintest

refuge

is the

truly

scene

its

cry

for

wildest
of

the

very

dreary

all

man,
in
with
of

hiding

and

Lord

of
and

loveliness

the
hairs
and
most

to

side

torrent

help
and

one

of

glorious

over

the

numbering

their

kings

gives

gives

comes

those

created

of

sublime

so

the

but
of

is the

above

then

And

King

the

Creator

raised

are

of

Alps,

It

feelings
!

the

overpowering-

"

of the

God
is

monuments,

and

the

the

far

so

that

this

that

and

seem

of

Jungfrau

hills

of

majesty

is

Brieg.

peaks

an

everlasting

thought

footstool

view

What

unchangeable

so

first

among

glimpse.

They

above

largest

first

precipice

feet

the

the

The

of

Below

and

power

torrents,

snowy

those

on

their

his

our

wandering

furious

glittering

Monch.

one

gaze

had

walked

above

face

3920

the

mountains

and

the

and

we

the

and

infinite

all his

this

previously

of the

ends

and

Alps

long,

be

companions

in

for

which

then

to

on

living
cut

feet

feeling

new

After

Beresal,

for

and

us,

as

procured

we

milk,

trees, rocks

only

passing

it is to

and

Mountains

pine

95

Aletsch,

we

strange

and

rested,

so

fury.

reaches

zig-zags

many

of bread

passage

Jungfrau,

of

glacier

horses

our

Bernese

Breithorn,

the

their

to

fully prepared

of

goats

after

by

place.

Schalbet,

glorious

the

such

artificial

or

that

to

forests

few

which

me

to

was

and

gallery

had

possible

as

breakfast
air

peculiarly constructed,

road

Here

second

mountain

on.

the

bridge,

therefore

resistance

refuge.

ourselves
keen

little

as

is

bridge

most

of

significant
intheir

tion.
protecsavage

magnificence.

INTRODUCTION.

The

pine

flowers

lovely Alpine
rocks

rocks

finds

longer

no

the

even

black

with

the

snows

piled

above

of

storms

in

eternal

their

stiffened

and

course,

with

abyss,
roaring

and

majesty

of

solid

and

mountain's

again

brow

dark
vain

the

for

when

for

upwards,

into
A

beautiful

and

second

below

feet.

your

galleries

that

Alps
bosom

Simplon

is
you

the

travellers

the

noble

tremble

It

is after

the
from

the

cold

you

and
of

in

ing
openit

well

and

but

An

silver

may
;

overhead

and
in

broken

becomes

and

while

whole
to

crevices

behind,

Brei

the

range
enclose

the

the

these

of

the

nese
Ber-

in

their

sides

in

awe

with

morning

Several

thorn.

stream

of

whilst, bright
to

and

very

last

you

their

on

forth

standing

of

rushing

the

and

waters,

through

seem

glaciers give

Jungfrau
us,

of

They

you

and

masonry,

sheet

of

the

passing

view

into

their

joined

with

to

finest

on

down

sound

same

"

look

of

dashing

further

the

climbs

and

spray.

obtained.

frowns

colours

many
rise

seem

is

the

through

cause.

light

water

which

the

gallery

walls

cavern

arch,

feathery

and

light

of

torrent

of

verge

very

around

the

glacier galleries

the

see

you

the

save

cavern,

for

and

fury

but

man

the

fathomable
un-

rocks,

here

of

built

is

strange

opposite

come

is

immense

around
a

"

you

looking
wide

gives light

length

at

resistless

torrent,

waters

look

you

with

celebrated

an

roaring

the

on

partly

enter

of

time

the

excavated,

You

sound

some

is here

It

arched.

strongly

foaming

almost

an

disappears

now

"

arrested

amid

trace

hangs

now

spans

No

precipices

reached, partly

are

Nature

with

side

every

Nought

way.

itself,which
fearful

those

rock,

of

and

forth,

the
but

nothing

below,

"

surging

headlong

power

road

wondrous
one

their

on

rest

torrents

bursting

cataracts

plunging

into

"

glaciers on

"

requires

mountains

ages

"

their

it

around

bloom

longer

no

soil

little

the
the
sun,

experienced
wonder

at

36

to

INTRODUCTION.

walk

Three

Simplon,

where

thought

excellent)

again,

how

it

Italians
of

the

said

continue

most

so

on

other

that

the

Ponte

Alto,

barred

by

nearly

impetuous
ourselves

in

rock,

and

not

huge

mass.

merely

lodgements
the

to

We

impossible
rising
height

the

got

conceive

to

each

on

little

the

in

the

bold

dark
arch

Not

its
out

to

see

stripe
gulf
of

the

the

rock

washes
it

of

as

blue

walls

sky

below

seen

the

white

and

the

being

the

and

spot,

so

waterfall

of

certainly

it is

The

giddy
above
of
and

rocks

and

terrific

the

torrent

"

black

pended
sus-

necessary

this

"

bridge

and

day

gangs

from

foam

solid

through

out

grandeur.
to

the

the

the

found

we

until

better,

by

for

room

miners

it,is

impressive

straight

in

the

approaches

hollowed

working

the

times

At

through

forty yards

spray

more

side

"

roaring

that

of

at

completely

leave

cut

it,

road

crossed

which

to

but

pierce

face

effected

long,

edge,

is

rocks

the

along.

amazement

our

men,

to

the

to

road

Frascinone.

100

months

were

its

along
took

It

ropes

feet

600

grandest

fall

seems

granite,

To

the

Doveria

scarcely

as

man

able
insurmount-

them

moment

of

side

escape

cavern

eighteen
by

close

to

the

block

opposite

stream

for

way

of

overhang

pass

it

Gondo,

perpendicular

you

of

torrent

immense
the

as

the

part

power

of

one

from

water

carnage

the

or

step, till they

of

of

apparently

Black

Alps.

drops

the

such

found

soon

wonderful

art

any

out

road,

Gorge

is considered

every

foaming

an

to

the

the
of

side
the

night,

pass

at

where

the

This
in

spot

so

through

narrow

completely,
the

road

savage
and

deepen

how

as

most

the

we

setting

marvellous

the

reached

we

conceive

to

this

performed

when

difficulties.
and

have

to

but

On

prematurely,

very

of

which

way.

horses.

the

constructing

in

impossible

could

rested

wonder

that,

work

seemed

and

the

by

inn

and

village

"

"

were

is the

top

(on chamois,

"

to

was

"

the

dined

we

began

from

miles

the

fall
water-

yawning

37

INTRODUCTION.

mouth

of

the

altogether

form

aumber

zig-zags

of

the

turns

side

to

for

are

side,

step of the

Isella,
reached

horses

visited

and

line

new

dreary

is

find

At
a

fine

of

mulberry

trees

from

to

the

dark

its

dark

their

told
It
of

of

was

the

too

reached

road

hang

from

by

up

amid

the

had

Val
to

skies
of

in

refreshing

distant

view

any
we

of
to

of
out

and

while

white

churches

with

air

setting

ourselves

all
"

Italy

often

so

feet

by

and

excitement

scene

our

sun

entered
the

that

with

maize,

balmy

after

at

for

festoons

crown

had

its features
find

of

soft

we

the

over

drapery,

glorious

felt that

by
and

graceful

vines
a

time

Chesnut

flowery

the

tains.
moun-

exchanged

are

pendant

trellised

again

Dovedro

conies

drooping

most

were

Val

Fields

d'Ossola, spread

glad

last

the

road.

we

distinguish

Eight

with

radiance
and

for

tion
desola-

begin

cultivation.

hang

of

air

bare

left

of

though

hitherto

indeed,

vines

the

to

pines

solitude

the

and

drive,

We

day.

it.

the

clime,

delicious

dark

and

over

spires pointing

described,
was

the

leaves

another
a

change,

luxuriant

and

the

we

we

bridges,

and

;
the

is crossed

tree, clothing them

peeping

lighted

all

line

green

tall

The

efface

the

and

passing

storms

severe

away

gorge

clothe

to

desolation,

clusters

cottages

this

high,

d'Ossola.

loveliness, richness,

can

Doveria

feet

The

swept

were

of

end

the

Grandeur,

tree

road,

false

After

destruction.

utter

rest, and

ninety

Val
!

scene

the

Crevola

bridge

entered

the

of

At

place

with

spot

that

Custom-house,

pass.

finished, nothing

now

around.
to

savage

nervous,

close,

Sardinian

from

somewhat
so

way

swung

them.

over

you

its

on

carriage

feel

to

emerged,

equalled.

downward

precipices

the

is

just

anywhere,

the

not

are

where

part

if

as

plunge

must

this

great

there

and

had

we

road

and

impossible

another

1839

sharp

was

village

the

conduct

very
it

whence

rarely,

scene

here

every

from

cavern,

the
in

time
the

it

but
we

town

38

of

INTRODUCTION.

d'Ossola, though

Domo

this

first

our

figs

bunches

of

were

in
in

it

its

their

boats,

with

richly

wooded
the

and

Ferdinando's

quite

noisy,
by
of

the

and

to

dirty, and

calm

beautiful

see

the

we

and

forms,

and,

nearer,

as

indeed,

the

by

actual

Very

but

means

so

of

Isola

beauty

to

not

did
that

we

Baveno,

and

out

had
it

the

was

picturesque
is

Madre
the

poor

wander
it

base

give

for
I

as

for

damp

too

much

are

going

it

seeing
expected

proved

tractive.
at-

more

remainder

which

on

being

intended

much

stupid horse,

to

Vevay,

from

care

perform

at

hang
over-

all round

wooded

Bella,"

vines

is

uncomfortable,

mountains

Isola

little

of

at

of

It

usual, owing

hasten

to

We

did

rest

bought

landscape.

any

slowly

day's journey, owing

being

we

moreover,

it is not

The

from

"

celebrated

glad

the

spectres.

exceedingly

was

were

the

to

had

he

inn

to

the

blue

and

terraces

than

longer

lovely lake.

and

richness

peculiar

The

up.

and

of

up

quiet beauty

like

though

heavenly

stillness

stopped

which

horse,

new

knocked

We

and

the

not

such

Maggiore,
lighting

glide by

edge,

detained

were

is

with

It cleared

ones.

softness

upon

having

wet

the

glassy

very

out

however,

in

two

wanted

colour

shore.

we

I confess

Italy,

look

to

been

peculiar

of

lovely Lago

awnings,

the

to

it

more

white

pebbly

borders,

is

is

had

the

The

there

but

Leman,

its

there

that

proofs

comforted,

were

between

for

charms,

pleasing.

very

waking

on

we

see

skies

bright

We

to

us

Still

sun.

the

fortunate

for

all

of

intermediate

day

and

pears,

sides.

surprised

how

peaches,

"

fast
break-

and

tea

agreeable

most

sunny

morning.

time

bright
in

of

land

wet

favourable

ripeness

at

by

excepting,

always

both

presented

and

impression

thought

not

fresh

inns

Italian

charmed

we

were

"

somewhat

decidedly

up

with

this

was

the

bursting
grapes

in

now

With
I

fruit

means

no

of

specimen
delicious

the

however,

by

of
more

the

39

INTRODUCTION.

road

tired

than

sulky

the

by

was

fine

where

we

colossal

statue

of

behind

itself

being

fourth
the

is

nose

however,
and

where

vetturino

Italy

confess,
to

he

but

the

and

leaves

different

us

places

those

all that

of

flowers

and

in

positive enjoyment
one's

book,

of

the

or

but

mind

there
the

chesnuts, only

opening

the

road

from

one

the

dreamily

excited

powerfully
part

half

or

trivial

was

past.

enlivened

just

in

comfort

before

of

repose
to

and

by

the

reaching

the

in

for

sight
Sesto

of

and

of

hand

wanting

fresh
re-

made
tribute
con-

was

read

to

had

so

particular
draw
with-

to

present
of

poplars
in

vineyards
Calende

nor

to

there

this

avenues

the

which
at

use.

drying

quietly

scenes

straight

at

the

daily

themselves,

able

the

in

bags

journey,

long

certainly

nothing
Long,

in

being

recall

pleasurable

Having

fragrance.

which., though
one's

to

and

sweetness

fruit

in

however,

memorials
thus

of

baskets

our

promised

pressing
as

at

even

I must,

were

sive
mas-

I asked

several

gathered

the

good,

rather

for

visited,

we

of

had

if

steps,

many

articles

various

we

so

tempted,

not

and

were

up

needful

which

inside

Italy.

hung

was

interest

arrangements
much

be

days

the

of

their

with

and

the

followed,

to

wet

all

flowers

bouquets

were

this

that

effect

he

statue

made

very

tempo"

bel

allows

were

and

Books, work,

"

is

sky

the
had

were

The

high

he

ascending

day

occasional

which

in

carriage,

of

account.

wet

arranged

had

me.

We

on

"

us

and

marvellous

feet

forty

head,

clear

the

was

these

that

his

the

hardly

the

in

Another

distance.

of

the

stands

It

Near

Alps.

is

night,

whole

different

snowy

told

fatigue

with

against

figure

the

the

as

thousand

the

of

arm-chair

the

satisfied

were

some

time

one

undergo

to

saw

Ferdinando

comfortable

we

pedestal

it,

regret

Borromeo.

on

feet.

at

and

for

Carlo

town,

sixty

not

background

St.

the

person

side,

stopped

Arona,

ridge

could

we

water's

the

ami

views,

but

is

every
must

40

INTRODUCTION.

of

seeming
to

pour

officers, the

custom-house
of

specimens

with

off

us

took

these

left

than
own

inn
of

but

pace,

post

or

moving
He

vain.

but

not

as

house

we

the

passed,

coming

out

of

managed
miles,

him,
to

indeed

patience

we

fell

going
eveiy

seemed

keep
until

kind

the

of
the

but

The

all

it

could
his
possible
im-

was

cially
espe-

opposite

every

journey

there.
and

heavily laden,

had

lumbering
We

of

been

and

grey,

in

forehead

which

spirit

spirit

sight of Milan.

but

exhausted,

diligence

slowly.

revive

behind

within

with

very

other
to

just

in

all

was

accents

Milan,

its

end

to

his
every

in

his

reach

backing

to

determined

our

on,

after

suppose,

if

as

when

took

now

cient
insuffi-

At

!"

since

should

he

commiserated

truly

annoyance,
we

the

After

short.

striking

we

choosing

exclamations,

the

when

creatine

consequently

and

shared

calculate

length,

night

wonderful

here

whistled

cavallo

desespoir,

and

grey.

exclaimed,
un

nified
dig-

franc

only

not

smile, although

fully

and

miserably

stopping

cavallo

au

most

to

At

in

cause

distress, and

Un

quite

was

indulging

and

"

entreaty,

Surly

scientifically.

to, Ferclinando

came

we

and

Austrian

it, who

horse

we

first

obstinate

more

minutes

ten

where

Ferclinando

he

passports

took

the

became

refractory

every

bag

sun

tedious

and

with.

quite

power

the

ever,

the

accompanied

country

locomotive

our

us

being

on

urge

lad

his

of

airs

with

carpet

to

Italian

good-humoured
mellifluous

into

horse

additional

an

street

met

the

town,

notwithstanding

they

peep

the

had

we

little

ground
fore-

brilliancy

managed

dirty

latter

gentry

they looked,

as

let

in

and

light

clumsily

dark

whiteness,

pure

the

stupid

hour

an

its

all

the

beyond

rose

in

in

crossed

half

detained

were

it

Calende,

Sesto

It

plain

upon

We

us.

to

Rosa.

Monte
wooded

the

to

denied

ferry

of

view

glorious

rivalry,
flogged

Ferdinando

vehicle
at

last

for

some

reached

41

INTRODUCTION.

the

which

the

ends

dark

too

was

to

do

than

After

look-out

from

the

shadows

the

of

luggage,

very

my

minutes

twenty
which

flags

finds

one

for

the

Croce

so

di

Malta,"

of

half

position
such

often

in

cities,

which

which

the

had

bay

at

town

been

we

highly

lines

as

the

horses'

at

of

if

along

recommended.

about

pavement

two

stopped

not,

or

In

having

for

between

of

window,

one

smooth

bowl

they

over

entering

them

assist

articles

on

Italian

paving

of

as

dark

and

smaller

that

rolling

the

depredators.

no

were

Corso,

of

wait

good

the

out

kept

drove

keep

to

in

the

We

then

and

lie

It

outline.

through

to

some

Pace."

advantage

trees

alarming

ordinary

after

long

Not

passing

leaned

wheels,

with

railway,

in

valiantly

we

the

there,

take

of

encountered

certainly

we

police

of

avenue

disposing

whether

and

the

Napoleon,

della

Arco

passports,

gentlemen
fine

in

passengers

by

windows

light-fingered

many

with

of

arch

distinguish

minutes

warned

being

fine

"

the

on.

"

road,

more

the

under

park,

Simplon

few

detained

were

city

the

to

entrance

on

the

feet.

hotel

44

softness

their

the

to

all their

Italian

an

the

in

flower

the

top

has

been

that

with

Arrived

view,

as

as

well

may
on

bounded

"

Breithorn,"

Cenis;"
and
of

revel

on

in

the

the

of

St.

the

city

turret,

of

the

next

stretched

Rosa,"
"

position

the

in

the

and

"dim

elevate

forth

the

And
edifice

veil

religious

mind,

!
its
seems

light"

as

what
The

far

distance,

to

It

name.

well

live

to

as

shall

say

feeling produced

impressive
hang

solemnizes

of

range

thoughts might

the
the

by

now,

grandeur,
misty

whilst

Piedmont,
called

glorious

its solemn

overpowering.

pillars, a

of

memory.

of this

vastness,

valleys

over

eye

the

the

in

Mont

"Spliigen,"
The

on

the

Lombard}',

Bernard,"
and

far

Spread

Monte

Tyrol.

rested

work,
glance,

the

the

"

Alps,

case
stair-

spiral

and

slowly passing

it

conducts

tracery

of

that

beauty

plains

G-othard,"

and

plains,

associations

expand

to

interior

of

of

of

"

then

scene

out

to

steps

top

the

Great

Mediterranean

the

Apennines
and

cultivated

richly

"

ascending

truly magnificent.

chain

"St.

on

roof,

the

are

eye,

leaf

involuntary

an

the

single

every

marble

many

mountains

pointed

was

of

round

approach,

you

open

is

the

right,

the

and

outpouring

upon

Blanc,"

the

these

Venice

the

by

Mont

to

more

beyond

the

side

one

on

round

dazzling

gallery

before

map,

of

consist

supposed,

be

blue

These

cast

the

upon
the

at

clear

hundred

with

least,

at

dread,

nervous

below.

out,

I,

the

two

of

flight

lofty turret,

in

part,

the

fully

retain

yet

out

is, however,

It

upper

these, standing

nearer

every

Cathedral.

the

which

through

be.

lavished.

inside

of

realizes

one

of

The

finish
to

which
"

walked

We

stands.

is found

roof

the

to

the

exquisite

and

it

which

of

and

newer

lightness against

magical.

is

the

statues

effect

ethereal

and

sky,

area

more

The

whiteness.

purity

of

and

pinnacles

fretted

"

snowy

NATURE

brilliancy

dazzling

the

portions

"

AND

ART

silence,
around
every

was

libly
indeof

the

by

its

is almost

the

massy
feature.

UNDER

Standing
around

roof,
of

colossal

in

emotion

kindred

sympathy
of

Jews

looked

the

"beauty

yet,

who

would

pomp

and

heart

""randeur

the

is

hath
of

are

east
:

in

whole

the

mosaics

within.

and

massive,

contrast

ear,

which

feelings
the

on

at

It

the

was

the

the

richest

varied

hue

with

sweet,

It

this

soft,

whisper
hour

of

seemed
softest
vespers,

than

all
fane

glorious

the

vivid
low

to

of

rise

music
the

our

and

round

gloom

and

statues

bronze,

stole

with

to

ones

colouring.
tone

the

upper

blue,

marble

that

the

crimson,
on

of

tear

in

three

the

well

clouds,"

the

windows

The

with

not

gorgeous

mysterious harmony

moment.

and

most

Temple"

we

on

the

despised

not

Do

gigantic pulpits

again

in

roof,

The

silence,

seemed

vaulted

pillar.

in

with

casting

the

while

colour,

gemmed

and

moving

raised

golden

are

of

beauty

of

God,

contrite

the

Jews,

came

such

to

same

acceptable

more

earth."

that

He

sitteth

heavens,"

the

ever

"

when

beauty

of

glory

the

Zion"

whole

their

because

who

sacrifice

the

and
art

scarlet

is

Lord

earthly beauty

Him

to

Mount

visible

true

Him,

feel

these

that

of the

of

that

penitent

range

of

to

appropriate

so

the

the

which

the

freshness

glory

on

of

feelings

direction

none

stood

of

me.

wont

were

remember

was

and

"joy

worshipped

circumstance

throne

of

to

who

have

whose

human

well

Him

the

over

with

hack,

which

midst

the

by

remember

to
"

the

well-nigh

rejected

and

in
not

built

Temple

holiness,"

we

thus

who

of

came

pride

their

consciousness

God

prophet-king

Temple

that

even

do

scene,

enthusiastic

their

on

feeling,"

living

radiance

with

aisles

vast

thoughts

my

that

and

old

they

And

bore

to

the

of

temple

vaulted

the

to

gem-like

the

the

elevated

pillars,a calm,

standing

of

through

then

windows,

the

upwards

colouring,"

intense

the

on

J-"'

SKY.

looking

and

choir,

the

near

ITALIAN

AN

dark

While
the

upon
solemnized

sweep
each
of

along
massive

twilight

46

shadowy

deepened,

faint

through

light

walked

we

form

be

might

melted

bright,

torches

the

the

tall

columns

shadows

toned

voice

keys,

the

lingered

it

the

had

chanted

there

during

the

the

the

far

aisles.

words

of

departure
twilight

the

hour.

and

distance,

for

brief

to

deepening
after,

who

see

moment

and

the

priests

strange

moment

all

stillness,
suddenly

ear,

was

the

till

us

broke

the

that

silence

was

heard

we

the

but

marble,
A

one

scenes,

It

resting

by.

some

around

upon

as

then

and.

of

It

bell

longand

now

such

of

sculptured

passed
few

for

the

torch-light
and

when

signal

in

along

of

shadow

died

appeared

hue

pecidiar

the

deepened

had

passed

every

deep-toned

echoes

light

ruddy

bearing

on

last

its

when

and

away.

the

cast

pavement,

imagination.
darkness

the

The

around.

to

step,

read

and

utmost

and

only

or

seen,

heard

my

felt,

shadows

the

have

surpassed

noiseless

all

marble

the

darkly

was

by.

stealing
reality

with

SKY.

on

served

across

onwards

kneeling

rested

windows

the

ITALIAN

AN

majesty

columns

the

of

shadows

UNDER

NATURE

AND

AKT

low-

clanking

like

us

of

had

must

with

it

own

considerable

disap-

was

the

through

passed

pointment

"'

GALLERY.

BRERA

THE

few

first

the

of

rooms

expected

Brera

be

may

raised

them

satisfy

when

this

and

small

is

well

the

possible

every

first

The

Mary

priest

between

who

of

to

came

and

and

the

had

contains

but

their

which
are

and

celebrated

joins

hands

pictures

look

to

here

on

with

placed
?

with

each

opposite
their

few

Joseph

bears

It

favour

the

this

In

owners.

many

stand

seventh

the

Sposalizio."
met

to

admire,

eyes

position
"

has

and

date,

learned

yet

entering

to

he-

afterwards

turn

light

these

almost

was

by

Raphael's

was

Joseph
them

could

in

not

might

and

pictures,

two

having

deserves,

for

advantage

name

own

highly

too

nothing

saw

ended

octagon,

masters.

were

had

was

beside

aught

his

is

It

room.

first

Italian

the

Indeed

which

that

disappointment

my

taste

my

appreciate

is

fully.

fear

to

this
my

expectations

it

had

many

my

certain

ginning

that

with

of

to

Milan.

at

charmed

he

to

introduction

It

Gallery

other,
is

the

in

it

ture,
pichigh-

the

act

48

of

the

putting
is

left

their

In

of

But

according

"

the

it is in

the

these

dwelt
subdued

which

that
""

which

Abraham

carried
venerable

regret

first-born

"

before

What
tale

have

condemned
the

on

and

mingled

the
"

she

dares

contrast

of

the
to

dark

bond-woman

"

is

mother

figure

Hagar
there

away

child

remain

longer

proud

is written

her

that

Oh,

turning

and

not

yet his

and

in

Oh,

what

concentrated

human

row
sor-

duty

and,

"

into

the

though

as

father's

yet

heart
may

face

anguish

some

her

on

there

haughty
a

he
heir

be

not

dawning

the

his

child,

perhaps

and

be

not

Ishmael

"

is

this

Abraham's

his

shall

whilst

of

and

glance

kindle,

eyes

of

say

with

part

of

sense

prophetic

prayer,

Sarah

poor

stern

name

of

for

an

Guercino

at

expression

the

the

fervent

in

his

Look

picture

shall

scene,

tenderness

Hagar,

is not

any

as

gives

even

touching

she

well

as

famous

cannot

power

free-woman,"

the

woe

emotions,

son

the

was

Hagar."

look

see

what

; and

though

which

And

It

forth

her,

It

steps.

dignified yet

as

figure.

justice.

that

for

towards

too,

of

whole

turned

pity

the

Thee

and

triumph,

do

that

The

forth

relenting

can

at

not

of

son

breathes

the

truth

such

you

saying,
the

to

the

expression

struggling against

all

to

Do

heart,

melancholy

before

of

flight

elevation,

be

to

acceptance.

shine

picture

of

knew

its

"

"

son,

future.
were

she

next

by

figure

superior

look

could

away

and

is

Mary

the

of

criticisms
Who

painting.

of

beauty

dismissing

the

patience

live

that

charm

"

with

face

blossomed

of

some

ing
break-

are

has

sign

and

description

to

his

legend,

figure

almost

indescribable

his, which

Mary's

right

they

as

and

future

and

the

lovers,

lofty Temple

and

the

holds

to

too, there

on

Joseph

On

Joseph's

on

the

softness

with

been

bride.

is

background

tender

to

while

the

and

have

to

of

finger

lovely maidens,

wands,

lily

NATURE

the

on

supposed

men,

into

ring

group

young

AND

ART

is

step.

is hers

speaks

UNDER

in
in

lineament.

every
tied

ml

life
does
melt

which

eyes,

for

ns

heart

the

and

hand,

and

the

"And

it be

can

is

no

next

gaze

of

has

and

read

banished

in

the

so

banish

her

her

turning

as,

She

earnest

wilt

see

of

could

those

thou

her

lips.

appeal

that

of

matter

of his

"

her

wander

to

be

what

moment,

takes

depths

to

she

more

agony,

she

"

departs,

it

for

the

breath

the

on

woman's

word,

spoken

feels

pale face,

the

her

into

she

need

no

doubt

into

on

is

say,

The

pride conqueringone

hangs

to

?"
look

you

that

that

as

seem

ever

that

there

look

you

41)

SKY.

ITAI.TAX

know

her

to

speak

not

As

you

eves,

death

or

AN'

fate

woman's
out
with-

away
child

the

by

wilderness

of

Beer-

sheba."
In

eleventh

the

It

beauty.
Catherine

in

heaven,

From
Maria

find

the

requires
that

this

Leonardo

such

torture

the
very
:

he

exalted

head
is

Saint

expressed

tranquillity

of

to

objects,

ferocious

men

this

splendid

"

distinct

examination
said

reported

to

that
to

to

have
D

have
made

Leonardo

mournful

creation

of

figures is

the

existed

ever

the

Even

Santa
tudinous
Multi-

by

really

fresco

wall.

most

Supper

was

of

of

Cenacolo."

masterly
four

or

"

Last

It

Church

the

to

tins

one.

of

this

was

confidence

and

surrounding

famous

made

three

the

all

drove

is the

discoloured

closest

of

submission

presence

we

every

of

of

one

and

portrayed.

wreck

that

and

power

Martyrdom

trust

of

the

Brera

to

utter

tell

to

full, deep

or

have

outline

Lord,

and

engravings

mere

our

sublime

Palazzo

an

soiled

the

unconscious

familiar

now

patient

where

such

remains

and

Grazie,

Vinci

the
"

meek

wonderfully

delle

The

with

of
all

subject

great

"

seemingly

are

of

picture

"

raised

instruments

da

the

countenance

eyes

these

agonizing

an

but

the

the

is

is another

room

can

been
the

genius.
all

that

on

the
of

countenance

yet be
it.

trace

to

left

It

recognised,
is

singular

unfinished

following

remark

by

50

to

ART

his

NATURE

AND

UNDER

Ludovico

patron,

"

Mora,

il

ITALIAN

AN

SKY.

gli

Ancor

due

mancava

"

da

teste

in

terra,

gli

now

In

addition

plaster

was

not

experimented

of

black

what

the

In

and

the

red

finished

the

this

chalk,

the

befell

this

head

whole

and

of

Leonardo

ing.
paint-

which

picture

assists

must

have

the

fresco

is

been.

French

supposed

our

forming

Italy,
painted

was

of

in

one

other

in

proved

design

and

churches

which

is

there

it

when

the

masterpiece

composition

Brera

in

time

in

quartered

some

Yet

which

at

prepared,

on

work.

mischances

kind

same

properly

other

grazie

any

the

which

on

celeste

incarnata."

than

frequently

were

the

in

to

the

of

treasures

his

divinita,

cercare

immaginazione

bellezza,

quella

quella

voleva

non

nella

pensare

distinguished

more

soldiers

die

tanto

in

essere

quale

della

concepire,

poter

dovebbe

Christo,

poteva

non

paresse

che

is

di

quella

fare,

to

the

have

ruin

Lord's

of

head

an

idea

AKT

""-

with

compromising
the

on

them

of

said

it

with

covered
Giovanni

colours,

formed
to

It

above.

and
is

but

attraction
and

The

relief

in

in

leaving
to

particularly

The
"

in
of

Augustine.

everything

most

pleasing

On

are

(the

is
very

like

Fathers

told, the
with

the

little

exquisite

lite

is
in

an

the

to

we

soon

striking,
which

are

the

in

the

often

as

best
found

possible,

vast

in

great

and

dering
wan-

themselves
we

not

hastened

cavern,

to

dark

and

fortresses, supported

of

general

chapel,

moment

our

occasion

for

of

appellation,

proper

This

this

gallery

recollections

though

even

the
One

streets,

we

speedily

as

interior

contrast

the

circumstances,

of

is rather

there, though

visiting.

brilliantlylighted
St.

hotel

cathedrals,

pulpits

beautiful

and

the

were

no

rooms

termes,"

we

have

Some

Certosa

town

entering

lavished

amusement

the

the

are

stealing along

being

our

great

to

brightest

the

from

you

From

on

such

The

gloomy.

afforded

be

to

seems

and

ficent
magni-

most

in

of

tomb

unexpectedly.

watching

entrance

the

our

worth

Domo.

colossal

in

indeed,

away

who

us.

dirty.

them

on

painted,

ceases

accommodation

place

and

saw,

church.

splendid

monk,

conducted

Pavia.

narrow

deceived,

reached
all

this

admirably

who

man

also

literally

The

costly materials"

most

mysteriously

unquestionably
old

the

start, coming

one

is,representing

silence,

the

of

ornament

make

frescoes

he

founder,

kind.

every

altar.

high

being

extreme,

by

even

see,

the

was

profane

not

not

Foliage, flowers, birds, fruit, all

and

everywhere

of

stones

the

Galeazzo,

I could

the

handkerchief

might

friend,
in

gorgeous

precious

it is.

there

was

foot

only part

complaisant

my

by putting

sacrilegious
The

NATURE

conscience,

my

its contact

device

in

that

stones,

by

any

his

AND

is

gloom
the

astonishing
workmanship.

believe,) representing,

Church.

the

by

and

In

heaviness,

magnificent

tomb

combination
There

rich

are

of
the

UNDER

Gothic

richest

elaborate

producing
whole

of

effect

an

four

of

tine

tint

of

statue

in

this

The

all.

coffin

I could

There
that

pleased
is

hang

me

the

absence

of

to

whom

we

happened

tomb,

took

turned

from

not

only

the

best

shewed

same

thing.

same

class

specimen
We

in
of

were

Po

for

light

by

country

to

through

of
a

for

the

the

see

with

us

manship.
work-

elaborate

which

in

Italians

us

for

tattered

boy,

when

and

we

instantly pointed

so

myself

required

long,

to

boy

give

he
out

the

observed

repeatedly

being

the

find

to

but

to

stance
in-

paintings.

remained

imagined

all

an

had

have

one

they
here

where

directions

only

but

poor-looking

we

country,

betimes

fine

beneath

been

noticed

accompany

We
as

own

off

ninety

to

you

church,

light

paintings,

each.

taste

The

where

the

his

lies

mounted
sur-

interested.

this

in

taste

apply

to

smiled

our

man

the

greatly

sacristan,

chapel
us

is

"

been

himself

the

and

have

details

Crespi.

the

upon

hundred

could

rich

innate

In

by

again

enables

disadvantageous.

of

laid.

are

pictures

by

sort

extended

surrounded

"

celebrated

the

good

exceedingly

of the

bones

have

"

and

two

that

that

at

would

is

which

canopy

gilded grating

wish

three

are

of

his

looking

which

robes,

The

It

marble,

"

lint

not

his

statues

body

which

He

the

in

and

tomb.
in

stood

we

The

Sienna

of
on

"

Augustine

splendid

silver

conceive.

perfectly unique.

as

tomb

graceful figures.

figures

marble,

purest

to

basement

the

by pinnacles

river

The

me

designed

"

the

difficult

is

struck

tomb

stories.

mellow

numerous

as

it

weeping

all

cars

in

and

beauty,

of

"

rich

bas-reliefs

triumphal

"

which

the

of

design

consists

and

taste

53

SKY.

pinnacles,

processions

"

with

and

arches

funeral

figures

ITALIAN

AX

of

the

such

!
the

bridge.
which

following
There
we

was

passed

morning,
little
;

to

crossing
interest

consequently

us

the
iu

gave

f"4

ART

myself

up

book

before

the

to

and

the

which

and

that

small

somewhat

toned

and

excessive

and

the
The

old

found

to

discovery
they

The

are.

Fine

hills
the

by

which

road

pleasing

in

the

as

The

we

encountered
ascent

is not

to

At

the

long,

those

and

was

after

down

the

in

that

chants,

well

less

with

first

much

be

The

give

to

"

things

as

beautiful

beyond

Novi.

strangely

marked

strata

of

chesnut
of

monotony
on

steep

trees,

the

additional

an

branch

less

set

however

to

one

and

were

people
better

we

than

inviting
which

butter,

avenues

took

and

exhausted,

and

reconciling

and

we

afternoon,

dirty, close,

very

heat

the

deepIt

solemn

the

nothing

shady

Konco
here

had

rocks

long

fine

notes.

sit

to

dral,
cathe-

place,

style.

in

becomes

and

the
a

"

the

mid-day

degree,

all

the

and

assists

distance,

contrast

day's journey.

coidd

bread

greatly

side,

to

"

evidently

road

went

sweet

tired

primitive

civil, and

very

much

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the

most

to

oppressive

Nothing

the

listen

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milk,

in

us

were

inn

our

sion,
occa-

organ.

very

degree.
and

that

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only

coffee

before

continued

the

noisy

of

notes

was

organ

journey,

and

this

distance

the

ordinary

no

morning's

om

reached

we

in

cathedral,

pealing
heat

when

of

peculiarly

some

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in

the

we

others.
on

course

hear

to

what

over

of

knew

of

flowers

dried

comfort

see

we

we

time

refreshing

heat

large quiet

in

with

instrument,

to

sorry

dinner

just

were

soothing

the

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with

carriage,

the

talking

have

interesting

comfortable

"

Italy,"

As
less

experience

which

Voghera,

resting-] dace.
and

not

of

arranging

the

in

Milan.

at

our

interfered

were

of

of

quiet

of

Travels

repose

accumulate,

reading

we

town

the

of

day

to

"

heat, however,
so

francs

amusements

day

seen,

the

"

Cooper's

three

enjoy

then,

varied
from

have

for

greatly

and

now

scenery

of

enjoyment

purchased

said,

NATURE

AND

of
than

the
the

"

previous

horse,

Apennines.
descent

no

UNDEB

opposite side,

on

account

which

the

nervous"

more

in

hut,

have

we

everything
ever

touched

pair

of

real

So

met

man

other

old

marvelled

"he

exclaimed,

down

my

vowing

certainly

had

by

old

without

friend,

vengeance

underwent

no

however,

sheets

the
to

been

much

simply

means

he

was

another
and

of

sure

the

that

overhauling

them
the
look

to

at

more.

any

linen-

were

such

articles

us,

my

adversary
To

and
I

discomfited

terrible

were

of

word.

of

him

see

they

had

silenced,

rest

any

shewed

and

that."

the

old

"

we

against

not

at

had

we

we

with

the

to

could

to

chosen

if

the

nand.)
Ferdi-

and

case,

us,

full

more

of

gentlemanly

why

not

was

double

speak

to

amused

had

contra-

were

unwilling,

to

even

official;hut

me

his

stated

had

excellent

civil

hut

one

pay

they

really imagined

no

or

triumph

in

carriage

our

we

was

satisfaction,

thanks

out

douanier

they

replying

my

made

politely inquired

man

that

and

consequence

the

whether

merchants,

replace

such

which

The

on

have

turn,

of

were

them

before.

there

and

for

Our

though

man,

douanier

my

them,

advised

he

no

over-zealous

this

gli lenzuoli," exhibiting

I, in

they

the

should

I
"

on

cheek

do

them

journey.

I went,

The

me.

new.

mark

for

stairs

up

forth

why

to

and

so,

moment

quite

could

he

1 did

refuse.

such

in

us

would

declared

leave

first rude

seized

despair,

in

almost

was

the

particular,

and

either

must

we

fear, fruitlessly, when

to

master.

hold

to

what

did

began

us

in

man,

Simplon
tered
encoun-

which

desk,

my

carpet-bag,

our

value.

value

utmost

in

sheets

Nothing

even

One

the

of

quite

w;is

annoyance

frontier,

with.

in

opened,

before.

informing

their

fallen
be

must

Sardinian

the

at

the

from

pleasant.

turns.

descending

when

recovered

not

morning

douanier

hand,

1 had

i'ar from

very

sudden

and

than

even

BKY.

times

at

was

sharp

so

fact,

that

the

of

ITALIAN

AN

the
in

finite
in-

my

desired

expressed
official

to

my
went

tilings, which
consequence.

56

ART

the

However,
window

old

within

bounds

after

though
free

long
At
in

from

of

the

to

Genoa

approach
full

of

the

trellised

These

pillars.
rich

ornaments

from

which

there

which

the

each

At
with

the

the
foot

their
of

end

the

three

rock.

Splendid

houses

convey

narrow,

"

was

the

from

delighted

Albergo

and

of

It

obliging

of

of

the

Genoa,

the

very
Our

the

is built

rocks

various

city

forts

by

the

hotel,
were

form

of

some

parts,
ram-

piers,

is

most

we

quite

the

which

the

time

with

Su-

gardens.

from

while
sun

la

particularly fine,

feet

noon-day

the

noble

two

are

is

of

and

terraced

One

one

heights,

with
and

in

magnificent

in the

nearly

of

gloom

rooms

their

"Genoa

principal streets,

good

and

appropriate

road,

hundred

even

stone

craggy

turning

on

both.

the

idea

with

landlord.

when

palaces

four

hue

glare

dTtalia,"

for

crescent-shaped

and

the

speak,

crowned

with

gay

no

with

of

side

spring.

mountains

light-houses terminating
between

view

gardens

of

tier,

above

and

upon

being

sides

rising

afford

jut

eminences

lower
and

traveller,

and

ranges

peculiar
to

so

one,

which

upon
at

crescent,

of

the

greets

bursts

perba"

something

blue
The

either

on

upon

tier

to

seem

preparing

declivities

abrupt

is

Villas,

in

out

the

and

bay

shrubs,

beautifully

sometimes

they

pointed

me.

supported
placed

contrast

approach,

scene

often

are

Altogether,
this

vines

so

scenery

distinguishable.

were

flowering

and

being

the

Apennines,

beautiful

its

soon

in

rence,
occur-

score.

Ferdinando

greatly delighted

trees

with

road,

the

to

Mediterranean

orange

this

him

kept

disagreeable

fortunate

very

the

from

this

and

on

grand.

and

was

been

came

very

Genoa,

it

him

on

eye

trunk,

my

annoyance

again

becoming

expanse

had

we

least

we

distance

opened

his

Altogether

all

the

Amierotti

parts

the

he

little.

had

gentleman

when

above,

NATURE

AND

most

solid

though

shade

they

grateful.
reached

the

attentive

charming,

but

UNDER

al

smh

height

so

intense,

at

the

and

before

of

the

and

gold

the

pictures,

silk

its

wished

to

aisles,

where

but

told

should

opened

until
were

door

this

just about
I

advanced
his

to

perceived

him

eyes,

exclamation

be

to

towards
and

the

door

there

large
turn

down

back,

when

at

of

horror.

His

at

table

whom

of

the

instantly starting

through

we

sound
up,

sudden

of

uttered
motion

tell
a

stood,

we

followed
tatingly
unhesiit.

Not

still

advanced,

empty,

and

we

partially opened

writing.
in

were

ing
Conclud-

search,
he

footsteps
a

the

himself

was

terminate

was

could

We

we

vain

of

one

he

which

passage,

one,
this

mine

in

where

dark
to

no

hall

he

from

long

ficence
magni-

and

if

effect

shining,

not

sacristan.

seemed

sitting

the

meeting

sacristan
him

that

find

stone

monk

replied
far

the

least

in

In

beautiful.

of

church,

the

ings
paint-

looked

him

not

which
and

ease,
to

came

we

door

the

He

passing

and

directions,

to

this

mass

are

kind

We

asking

him,

Cena."

at

of

colour.

was

priest walking

accost

pointing
I

me

"

in

was

sun

the

church,

tea

not.

and

frames,

striking.

very

heard

to

the

was

stranger,

is

in

round,

setting

to

one

are

perfectly

is not

It

mind

Observing

ventured

finding

had

see.

the

which

out

from

they

are

go

talk

every

down

all

golden

glorious.

it

painting

his

kind

look

wherever

least,

at

It is

of

tie

to

people

church.

windows

by

was

even

return

may

panels,

massive

the

and

marl

ground

on

than

satisfies

that

still,of

in

curtains

less

nothing

the

distance
set

are

of crimson

of this

golden

lighted

that

at

windows

me

is

arranged

Well

gorgeous

in

set

which

which,

was

and

lapis-lazuliis

dome,

The

blue

We

again.

magnificence

heaf

large airy apartments,

L'Annunziata,"

nest

our

extraordinary

roof, and

he

to

up

the

However,

them.

to

"

of

66

have

to

climbing

church

going

Bright

tbr

of

and

65

glad

were

expense
see

the

wr

Nos.

57

BKY.

ITALIAN

AN

most

raised

vehement

completely

startled

58

and

me,
known
his

where

stood

for

screams,

At

threw

efforts

the

sacred

taken
in

the

ludicrous

however,

was

seemed

had

wish

no

we

proved

the

be

to

painting

we

heard

in
of

many
first
own

because

sought.

that

this

mind
I

;
am

am

thus

"

only speak

of

and,

moreover,

bid.

once

to

form

of

the

the

old

impression
I

overheard

can

never

own

small

the

out

much

was

seem

sumptuous
preabout

opinion
but

masters,

they

who

disappointed,

almost

my

however,

pointed

sometimes

may

I
the

man

Procaccino

by

all
say,

to

us

and

yet

after

exceedingly

was

venturing
works

aisles,

He

and

must

by

took

He

Supper"

Last

afraid

the
I

famous

these

place,

of

one

had

celebrated.

individual.

said

church,

accompanied

to

When

search

the

my

entered.

church.

our

to

distress,

particulars,

leaving

strangers,

him

directions

us

though,

"

had

express

had

we

further

any
were

we

of

behind

corner

having

As

party

saw

dark

prosecute

to

given

the

into

laugh

hearty

humbly

to

of

before,

His

these

fairly

belonging

described.

had

all

unconsciously

caused

which

at

learned

us

saw

sacristan.

missing

door

than

and

most

priest

he

enjoyed

we

over

when

he

when

so

the

by

pacified

more

that

mediate
im-

my

appearance

mind,

only

Signora"

and

appeared

have

could

had

ever

of

La

effect

sudden

had

"

monastery

the

at

none

him

sacristan

the

the

excitement

subject,

fact,

and

wholly

so

frantic

soothing

of

presence

real,

so

the

In

manner

informing

regret,

was

all

him

from

seek

probably

where

woman,

words,

his

make

to

violent,

so

repeated

more

horror

his

oft

upon

precincts

and

church,

light

explanation.

at

the

entered

of

became

at

gaze

the

produced

retreat

my

only

attempting

tliem

call

cannot

length

degree

some

vain

in

was,

could

we

NATURE

gesticulation

indeed

surprise.

with

His

request,

our

unintelligible,

act

AND

ART

make

admire

in
on

the
my

anything

party discussing

various

("0

ART

aspect, without

that

distinguishes them,
whilst

narrowness,

one's
"

Brignole

the
the

the

ornaments

are

are

enormous,

opening

At

which

first

flight

you

we

floor, where

it

to

was

shew

into
in

the

but

passed

on

pleased
Here
a

were

into

the

The

me.

the

are

Marchioness

idea

new

him

am

painted point-lace
most

those

powerful
three

expression.

third, of
of
in

Charles

of

and,

grand

First,

almost

ashamed

Here,
;

pictures with
second

and

and

indeed,
I could

their
room,

rich

"La

saw

Guides

One,
of

had

good

picturesque
of

faces
with

the

same

beautifully
in

him

the

me

; gave

the

have

stood

deep

colouring

State,"

and

Prirnavera."

with

quainted.
ac-

Sabines,"

four

child

add,

ments,
apart-

another,

painter.

to

the

beheld.

other

first

very

room,

La

ever

and

once

well

and

"

mind

own

my

the

aspect

The

this

at

us

the

of

his

made

this

called

father

the

became

horseback

on

to

of

Rape

Vandykes

Marquis

and

connected

portraits
cast,

the
;

completely

splendid

up

the

came

is here

is

room

the

business

led

with
"

The

picture,

next

most

of

hall.

of

man

who

struck

hall,

top

go

old

which

whilst

palaces

whose

afterwards

we

fine

to

arrangement

much

great

the

person

summons,

which

singular

flight of steps.
At

pleasant

Marchese,

not

massive

the

unexpected

with

We

our

the

Castello, a

portrait

deal

of

one

Valerio

by

to

answer

has

marble

desired

find

Palazzo

of these

doors

statues.

were

palace.

somewhat

"

and

The

immense

and

fine

are

this,

as

bright crimson,

an

wide

weather

It

The

upon

should

we

bed-room

order,

to

bell,

the

in

appearance

once

these
a

rang

of

marble.

at

such

increased.

being

the

injured by

entered.

we

which

splendour

scarcely

in

greatly

walls

pass
of

second

is

effect

first

of white

landing

every

is

was

outside,

through

massive

unquestionably,

Rosso"

appearance

the

comfort

personal

the

diminishing

all

at

NATUBE

AND

an

hour
and

contains

and

new

before
noble
one

of

UNDER

the

It

(Jiiido.
one

or

buyers

ami

most.

It

aiv

is

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to

calm

while

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what

one

than

rather

passed

taste,

my

questioning

Vandyke,

is

Our

of

one

face

Lord's

yet

with.

met

"Render
(

things

be

dignity
the

two

the

scene

than
the

It is

Jews.

portrayed

of

cunning

and
a

the

artful

picture

to

believe

yourself present.

picture

on

more

with

regard

me

to

Abraham

Brera

particularize
only add.

Ouercino

dismissing

"

will

resembles

the

of

more

that

was

the

calm

think

the

that

which

already

delighted

with

spoke,

the

this

to

appointing
dis-

noble

of

expression

realize

painting,

and

effect

this

felt

of

strongly

so

spoken

any

in

have

Nothing

till you

it is

than

more

"

majesty

upon

collection

seen.

lie

between

that

by

Caesar's, and

obsequious

Ihmar.

to

The

we

questioners.

dwell

have

"

have

words

are

contrast

yet

almost

the

with

his

forget

till you

"

thus

;"

which,

anything

of

which

things

(bid's

are

in

expression,

it than

of

reminded

the

deep

Jesus,

ideal

once

admirable

more

of

at

was

that

the
can

one's

to

and

Tribute-Money,"'

heavenly

most

not

was

L'Autunno,"

perfect pictures

most

paintings.

the

on

terror

express

feel.

these

the

feeling

human

LTnvemo,"

all

not

becoming

people

"

ject
sub-

lias

figure

of

in

pictures

of

the

Lord's

would

the

but

master,

the

they

Lord

the

Caesar

unto

the

toil

of

colouring

the

much

"

our

wears

nearly approaching

is too

room,

finest

Pharisees

this

the

noticed

one

only expression

the

fourth

the

Our

conceives

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are

the

There

with

the

to

on

of

There

upon.

banishing

was

countenances

struck

particularly

look

"

conceived.

used.

to

finely executed

ridings

is

St.

"Saviour

Temple

very

which

he

anger;

the

badly

dignity

the

Sebastian, by

"

painful

; but

wonted

me

words

solemn
and

Guercinos

undoubtedly

all

be

to

Gl

BKY.

subject

same

as

Belters from

seemed
the

life-like

so

two

is

possesses

the

of

pictures

niaiiv

ITALIAN

AN

of

other.
one

in
I

not
can-

but

room,

all. except

the

one

by

62

ART

Paul

"

Veronese

Judith

revolted
withheld

be

not

six

or

confused

the

in

but

by

painting
the

with
had

idea

my

From
on

Asp

the

of

rich

crimson

the

air

tired

"

to

believe,

rank

the

"

"

the

in

the

of

of

Sybils

of

is

my

out

with

its

scenting
the

palace
now

the

and

at

fancy.

and

doors

"

in

its

is

for

whole

Here

length

all

their

step

some

tapestry

we

first

saw

laden
the

real

combine
It

"

this

is

to

said

at

to

believe

copies

Guercino

new

leries.
gal-

gilded panels
the

quite

can

of

the

which,

literally

the

where

tables

and

we

"

know

of

pieces

that

bas-reliefs

the

reflect

one

so

"

splendour.

and

were

Garibaldi,"

"

francs,

every

numerous

by choosing

Serra"

which

Domenichino

the

walked

palaces,

looked

pictures,

more

or

ceilings

scarcely

you

beautiful

two

We

till

bewildering

million

famous

realized.

visit,but

admiration

Palazzo

The

lapis-lazuli

saloon

noticed

before

Adelaide,

Brignole Kosso,"

mirrors

the

times,

"

Cleopatra

and

eye

nificent
mag-

ever

we

"

cost

oleander,

next

"Durazza,"

the

things.

marbles

begins

struck

should

our

on

of

to

saloon

thousand

this

palace

which

appreciate

to

instead

next

precious

varied

"

opposite

decide

to

calls

the

vary

The
with

by

queen

Queen-Dowager

our

unable

Serra,"

Palazzo

by

difficult

it

really

resolved

Immediately

got

of

proud

delighting

alike

picture-galleries we

and

this

beautiful

the

head

College.

and

palaces

trees, and

occupied

found

We

of

five

my

that

not

coidd

through

arrested

truly princely

fragrance.

Jesuits'

the

this

blossoms,

was

and

was

I know

regal beauty

orange

with

room

Arm."

of

balcony

groves

which

the

ached

eyes

favourite, Guercino,

my

her

on

of

twelfth

walked

We

till my

succession,

Holofernes,"

admiration

one's

execution.

the

of

head

subject, though

from
in

rooms

its

by

the

holding

"

which

NATURE

AND

room

make
have
it.

from

I
the

Rome.

unrivalled

street

feature

in

the

generally

used

the

scene

white

of

of

numbers
veils

luxuriant

and

rich

of

that

allow
I

rather
I

indeed,

girls, with

with

portal

and

admirable

of

one

or

another

of

de

Later

of

the

St.

Porta,"

painting.

is

Certainly
could

As

not

desire.

seems

spirit !

of
I

I cannot

of

be

to

the

mingled
intering
stand-

seen

massive

some

The

and

chann

as

endless
with

contrasting

"

monks

to

realized.

heads,

palaces.

regimentals

saw

mind,

my

to

the

picturesque

their

were

princely

priests
this

of

There

is

no

our

hear

taste

and

novel

of

as

nothing

those

words,

St.

part
are

pleased

doubtless

when

is all

shake
"

The

me.

but

perfection.

countenance

Jesus,

perhaps

and

Stephen

can

Lord

fine

uncommon

of

in the

earthly
"

whole
finished

was

veiy

ideas

my

holy tranquillity

Martyrdom

appreciation

due

realizes

St. Ste-

The

magnificent

and

the

portion
it is

that

one

it is

of

Romano.

small

expression

other
Lord

Giulio

"

Church

the

to

picture

only

tells

that

and

famous

but

of

want

carriage

and

of art

figure

to

But
of

work

trust, such

almost
"

the

see

picture

the

confiding

to

by Raphael

only betray
it

say

in

on

grapes

attire

took

we

single glance

is

pictures

contributed

by Raphael,

designed

shall

day

Stephen,

by him.

alike

been

yet

foreground

gay

sombre

all

pride

scene.

the

in

della

was

the

have

flowers,

the

"

charite,

striking

fano

bright

an

enlivening

and

of

form

costume

rich

women

appearance

drawing

to

of

sceurs

whole

The

arrow

younger

beauty

as

variety

silver

The

the

be

of

the

by

figures graceful, though

baskets

tastefully
so

their

say

head

to

seems

effect

picturesque.

the

with

Italian

continually

was

of

group

of

ideas

my

should

their

of

the

truth,

highly

hack

sometimes

pretty, and

mostly

were

is

which

hair,

in

and,

workmanship.

Genoese

beautiful

of

and

poor,

the

at

G3

SKY.

figures

fastened

plaits

and

heard

veiled

these

usually

are

often

I had

of which

veils

ITALIAN

AN

UNDER

"

and

receive
face

neither

one

and

one

my
pression
ex-

is what

64

ART

there

is

itself

is

the

casting

men

short,

celebrated

cathedral

enjoyed

we

the

It

with

was

regret

morning,

next

that

have

would
at

the

excitement

absolutely

objects

been

fatigue
By

however,
visit

ing
even-

of

arches

all

is very

the

from

breeze

attractive

very

necessary.

and

the

range

bay

and

city

of

;
that

fine

makes

sea

the

object

one

should

we

what

which

places

and

contrived

was

previous

to

those

see

the

possessed

Ave

prolong

not

management

generally

much

seeing

our

but

Genoa

leaving

travelling, beyond

little

we

those

for

stay prevented

it desirable

and

arrangement,

the

gave

ing
concern-

upon

preparations

made
short

rendered

heart

had

kind
In

erected

refreshing

we

our

as

of

view

Eome,

at

immense

an

velled
tra-

promenade.

evening

favourite

of

top

and

having

who,

useful

very

storehouses,

the

and

wall,

the

to

on

arrangements.

the

on

The

quays.

this

from

walk

apparently

buildings,
along

domestic

divers

and

of

passed

agreeable

winters

many

In

went

most

Boston,

for

good.

and

back,

two

the

disappointed

was

closed,

met

from

lived

and

doors

information

practical

much

lodgings

it

deal,

walked

we

ladies

means

in

of

figures

any

whole

the

table-d'hote

great

as

We

finding

American

intelligent

that

say,

The

by

not

are

work.

but

the

At

hotel.

us

fairly

may

this

with
the

stones

which

introduced,

outrage

then,

And,

subject.

Father

the

unpardonable

an

and

scene

God

of

figure

such

for

liked

have

should

NATURE

AND

greatest

interest.
On

the

passing
of

summit
view

road

The

Levante."

we

entered

fearlessly assert,

I may

believe

after

Genoa

leaving

the
of

of

overhanging

Genoa,

with

the

world

its

the

city,

"

the

and

is

ships,

drive,

di

Riviera
ascend

to

the

from

and
there

mountains
harbour

immediately

almost

begins

environs

in

loveliest

the

upon

its

first

cent
magnifitowers,

CINDER

of

sides

spires, with

and

domes,

looked

the

hills

back

Mediterranean,
lovelier

again

And

upon

us,

such

help

cannot

with

trees,

and

dark

leaves

green

cypresses

like

beautiful

in

mind

with

and

there

coral,

of

this
the

of
the

while
but

flow

gently,
bold

precipices,

as

and
the

the

berries

sweet

roses

minute

the

from

from

finishing

beach

on

his

tiful
beau-

vineyards

giving

with
and

the

palms

which

though

whispering

rugged

shores, overhung

hidden

breakers

sweet

underneath

one's

Claude

on

sea-shore.

the
the
Here

like

bunches

little nook

every

succeeds

of

everywhere

appear

of

in

luxuriance

the

their

stone-pine,

scenes

aloe, and

arbutus

lovely bay

pebbly

Italian

fig

associations,

tree, and

; and

greatest

blossom

One
a

of

and

its associations

and

rise

olive

pomegranates

from

the

which

rich

the

in

tropical

to

groves,

above

so

brightest

wisdom

lemon

one

has

"

and

more

opened

what

Lord

to

see

the

are

blessed

our

to

ruptly
hills, ab-

scriptural

sword-like

grow

rocks

the

landscape.
still,with

have

fig

as

and

still

of

There

tree

fruit

golden

as

the

suited

from

lovely landscapes

Indian

or

orange

of

of

more

spires towering

Hedges

ledges

all

tall

the

very

of

and

but
itself,

Lorraine.
cactus

beauty

with

heavenly

festoons

each

to

sides

and

of

blue

likely

idea

an

seem

of

the
memory

were

of

covered

times

lessons
and

casting garlands
grace

the

to

and

description, though

The

sweet

our

scenes

profusion.

many

mind

parables

added

richest

the

or

here

upon

on

convey

are

that

shrubs

their

one's

carrying

new

to

coast,

out

the

dotting

stopped

and

baffle

tiying

the

We

seen,

enjoyment.

to

in

grow

ever

indeed

do

and

had

houses

panorama

proceeded

we

intense

vegetation

that

we

least

sloping

climes

as

as

at

such

given

than

yet

it.

city below,

impressing

perhaps

white

of

surround

proud

65

SKY.

thousands

which

the

on

ITALIAN

AN

and
"

the

features

grander

another,
the
music
with

waves

dark

only

soft

some

to

seem

others

again,

rocks
revealed

and

by

GO

the
the

brink,

in

tainted

could

power
with

have

where

and

continual

till

stopped

we

side

of

still

already

breathed

just

side

of

the

leading

and

kindly

which
the
basket.

path

pretty
child

young

tendrils

and

offered

us

came

some

incident

around

pleased

only

not

notes.

village inn,

the

As

bright
to

me,

wards
on-

sat

we

black

eyes,

and,

us,

freshly

them

among

walked

we

heads.

up

opposite

scattered

with

gathered

tastefully arranged

twisted

pic-

joyous

to

us

as

with

woman,

out

chiming.

led

our

over

hand,

had

it.

varied

this

villages

hills

the

by

she

The

the

its

were

which

with

before

air, too,

churches

the

on

opened
of

reached

we

hung

grapes

gracefulness,

with

simple

of

situated

forth

of

mountain

acacias

The

pouring

the

the

panorama

paradise

ascended

we

on

when

stony

each
of

little

grapes

leaves,

Woods,

crowned

rest,

to

little

clusters

Such

of

bells

mountain.

the

vineyards,

down

as

o'clock

twelve

climbed

We

enjoyed

all is

enjoying

this

of

gay

where

part, of

grove

human

other

seem

through

so

gardens,

and

beautifully
a

seemed

but

fragrance,

all around

and

with

ever

gaily

how

harmony
sea

steep

very

looked

never

in

and

most

magnificently.

more

was

inn

bank,

view

turesqueness

It

little

flowers,

went

we

climbing

wooded

the

Here

at

the
so

ness,
loveli-

sometimes

terraced

The

as

very

the

blue,

marvel

of

troubled

the

bright

the

there.

earth

Onward

after

once

and

sky

holiday

beauty,

at

in

stand

there,
seems

from

out

one

it

them

placed

strike

decorations,
bright,

that

peeping

statues

and

the

villages,with

and

houses

here

mountains

the

on

light, is

swell

over

calm

its

in

away

The

scattered

gables,

reflection

its

dazzling

Mediterranean.

beautiful

hierh

of

flood

the

by

pine hangs

hardy

far

Stretching

till lost

the

urged

waves,

vainly seeking

below.

waters

receding

while

though

as

the

them

upon

sea

of

foam

angry

NATURE

AND

ART

large

on

so

and

to

as

in

figs
vine
form

such

68

ART

of

pression

simple

1 confess

mo,

often
value

for

the

is in

security

and

the

for

triumphant
it

his

of

of

and

may

kind-

the

both

us

might

The

of

Gulf

for

remarkable

so

position,
Italy,

that

Nap"

had

mined
deter-

stations

naval

great

he

hope

or

some

say

in

welfare.

through

the

for

natural

career

one

which

was

respect

to

interested

crescent,

advantage

make

to

wishes
of

I tried

solicitude

little

very
;

much

anxious

form

every

his

in

best

our

felt

Saviour."

my

and

him,

to

"For

greatly,

me

Church

his

use

We
his

whilst

man.

Spezzia

leon,

of.

and

evincing

of

of

struck

God

my

remarks,

be

might

excite

to

his

at

think

hearted
well

sins

ceremonies

tilings which
sometimes

which

reverence

my

surprised

NATURE

AM"

of

i-

his

empire.
It

was

and

ramble,
The

to

of

and

of

hue

the

the

leaf

olive
white

almost

which

was

of

brilliancy

the
of

battlements
the

history

past

Spezzia
of
the

have

once

of

though

not

owner

certain

degree

any

vetturino

ordinary
those

in

who
of

select
the

distance

fault

travelling
this

mode

carriage
in

and

given

of

in

of

but

is

It

travelling

time,

of

to

also

to
to

the

of

the

mind

to

sojourn

at

cies
spe-

previously,
Ferdinando,

the

for

with
take

of

system

customary

contract

only

to

from

with

his, but

not

the

with

Italy.

horses

remains

arising
met

the

on

colouring

pleasant

our

twice

or

and

back

arrangement

our

"

the

drawback,

some

peculiar

forth, added
are

these
shades

the

to

gorgeous

carry

But

The

me.

land.

along

green,

shew

for

and

sea

all

fig

the

castle, wdiich

result

natural

the

with

place.

to

bluish

There

the

we

annoyance

side

of

hour.

without

not

was

tint

on

charm

new

time

in

were

we

sunset

great

to

old

of

of

beginning

sunset

the

is

mingling

"

Autumn

halo

dark
one

on

again

foliage was

rich

"

other

tint

the

the

and

golden

and

course

from

green,

evening,

see

of

variety

shores,
of

delicious

the

them

provide

them

UNDRB

and

board
As

often

is too

do

in

comfort

of

(In1

and

was

the

question

the

by

Ferdinando

declare

This

giving

to

coolness

think

i1

requisite

in

instantly

in

where

changed

our

it
and

comfortable

this

plan

to

least
:

"

in

every

This
as

him

way,

hut

into

is
in

which

assertions

Ferdinando,
It

for
not

was

clarations
de-

nay,

he

not

form

of

did

apology

different

last

ment
aparttime

we

reached

we

Ferdinando

solely

and

former

the
as

to

modation.
accom-

guard

the

very

was

soon

This

any
a

with

services.

own

to

way

and

paying

all

through

the

allowed

favour.

forgotten

go

was

proper

for

our

which

with

first engagement

entirely
his

way

in

were

led

at

appearance,

annoyed

horses,

the

bestowed

strongest
sent

wre

matter

landlord

"

horn,

the

the

but

the

the

master,
pay-

was

apartment

disengaged,

one

settled

see

wretched

who

our

on

to

before,

once

for

were

we

for

being

pay

we

asking

be

time

mistake
aide

to

to

pices.
aus-

usually

and

as

evil

such

the

occasion,

disregarding

of

excuse,

were

the

to

and

only

instantly

laughable

or

look

one

the

was

however,

test
de-

unfortunate

once

to

the

the

at

readiness

have

on

was

any

cannol

power,

comfort

without

his

time,

ushered,

were

of

amount

in

own

answered

and

landlord,

to

this

on

they

who

under

by

us

employer'*

their

Ferdinando

to

tion
tempta-

individual

that

discovered

we

ere

asked

the

and

to

in

themselves

but

was

the

vetturinos,

establishment

annoyance

any

of

honesty

his

from

worthy

our

of

expense

the

amount.

contract, the

finding

time

accommodation;

seem

the

at

stipulated

landlords

their

best

who

of

the

the

some

for

prevent

it

bind

revenge

enters

made:

that

for

any

for

profits

lull

who
It

we

journey

hotels, generally speaking,

traveller

after

in

again,

system,

settled

case

much

too

their

choice

the

thing cheaply

and

question;

had

the

the
is

obtain

od

Lodging

69

BKY.

ITALIAN

AN

his

Leg

ended,
carriage

only

far

reality cheaper,

we

and

more

since

70

paid

we

so

who

was

be

thousand

return

our

night

little

of

lamp

of

horrid

into
I

which

felt

did

in

in

took

refuge

in

of

It

that

of

all
with

The
up

some

Marble
the

last

daylight.

amazement

dignity
the

was

kind

in

his

assistance

of

Mountains

mid-day

peaks.

of

the

and

six

the

recounted

my

injured

innocence

exclaimed,

who

person

had

ever

at

window

the

morning

tually
ac-

horrors

the

by

day.

foes

of

sit

and

when

ascents,

shone
We

last

in

the

was

I at

Yet

sturdy

two

of

sun

rive

think
to

was

the

relentless

my

landlord

experience,
that

anything

seen

house."

steep

very

resource

of

fatigues

to

now

for

excitement

reading,

was

even

of

first

that

say,
I

creep

the

were

some

away

nervous

and

pages

me

My

the

Madame
the

makes

for

looked
and

the

the

them
there

minutes.

wile

oil

the

even

sleeping,

few

to

calm
them

when

upon

in

the
side
bed-

Literally, they
of

swarm

in

but

bed,

was

my

precipitated

hope

hoping

and

believed

night.

watching

book,

hours,

all

by

perfect

had

it

lighted

placed

reality !

up

dishonest.

say

drowned

into

irritation

by

leapt
time

gave

is

discovered

vetturino

when

been

animals

dire

produced

I be

had

and

of,

it

truly

may

it

Ferdinando,

positively

place,

getting

the

of

well

the

not

gambols
on

fever

Shall

which

unwary

dozens

irritation

oil

qualms

waking

first

bloodthirsty

perfect

weary

the

previously,

anticipate

not

there

olive

their

sundry

In

little

if

Spezzia,

at

as

where

worse

indifferent,

hour

an

comfort

our

if

and

think

to

reason

for

rooms

memorable

accommodation

every

times

and

to

about

had

anxious

really

NATURE

inferior

very

we

careless

utterly
To

one

so

must

for

higher
with

was

"

AND

ART

oxen

where

Carrara.
with

looked

we

The

with

no

in

came

heat

dazzling
up.

required

was

was

brightness
small

drag

to

sight

of

intense,
on

interest

the
to

us

the
and

tering
glitthese

UNDER

in

quarries, opened
have

whence

well

are

tired, and

it.

attempt

with
the

little

inn,

after
pure
very

and

beautiful

well

executed,

streets,

saw

colossal

statue

mountain

to

had

taken

cicerone
in

with

of

studio.

little

town

sides

of

the

town.

Following

middle

of

the

fantastic

all

its

possible

pale

leaves,

as

around

take
It

of

stiffness

in

for
as

some

olive

vanishes,
artist.
of

profusion,

the
as

it
I

mementos

We
a

ramble

of

one

some

flowers
that

on

the
in

it

becomes

it

lers,
rol-

delighted
when

the

reached

ourselves

wild

It

place

surrounds

was

the

wooden

for

gathered

bright

for

to

it.

assumes

and

the

from

more

which

trees.

of

it, and

upon

found

we

poor,

miles.

saw

time

range

olive

an

we

in

very

three

drawing

path,

the

about

of

were

destined

eight

Santa

with

statues

way

How

one

its

along

oxen

mountain

zig-zag

studies

of

Pietra

which

well

moved

was

pairs
of

least

at

to

boast

to

down

to

us

least

plenty

on

where

ever,
how-

studios.

marble

of

it

bring

to

wood

forms

youthful

distance

the
a

large

best

bloomed

days

twenty-four

pretty

one

town,

of

horseback,

on

took
at

us

there

placed

the

were

passing

block

it would

us

artist's

the

the

the

eight

In

art.

man

there

for

met,

he

of

much

wretched

"

We

the

Some

The

seen.

enough

of

tains
moun-

both

rest

and

little

tiful
beau-

question

be

to

five

or

course

these

prepared

is !

enormous

an

of

told

of

works

as

we

of

but

the

little

something

four

of

were

of

seems

marble

the

we

travellers,

through

many

had

we

sides,

so

portion.

our

who
to

got

went

inferior

and

to

cleanliness, though

to

We

all.

else

got

we

fell

studios
we

outline

it out

put

cicerone,

where

attention

more

food

various

shew

heat

mountain
of

visit,but

Unfortunately

civil

of

the

The

art.

anything

worthy

uneatable

and

room

and

excessive

the

of

materials

costly

unlike

and

SKY.

parts

the

genius

peculiar,

quarries

to

of

ITALIAN*

various

proceeded

creations
is

AN

the
with

is old
of

the

of

the

which

pleasant

ART

ramble.

The

impatient

with

and

noon,
of

group
One

but

the

the
be

finer

or

thus

The

tint

rich

of

yellow,
Italian

an

the

marked

of

met

for
I

is

the

spread

know

multitude
beautiful.
numberless

the

of

not

of

with

The

that

probably
is

there

sharp

which
is

tout

of

that

to

faces

certainly

all
of

the

from

the

shadow

is

the

deep
of

the
I

because

at

Milan

justice.
form,
facade

one

the

Baptistery,
;

was

gentleman

its

in

this

Perhaps

fine

ing
colour-

column

me

very

by

transparency.

ensemble,

in

stantly
in-

ings
build-

the

out

it greater

confusion

become

effulgence

airy

beauty

done

has

caused

heard

having

habitations.

shade

effect

dark

their

which

little

in

can

by

full

which

times

the

have
such

nile
Campa-

beauty
and

standing

dream

angles,

facade

columns,

the

of

my

the

Nothing

the

disappointed.

was

consequence

I should

the

wall

effect

by

more

other

at

the

itself

it

light

arches

brightness

along

on

compare
this

of

smooth

parts

in

apart

the

ordinary

most

so

Sometimes

building

cathedral

in

the

still

more

produced

remarkable

and

vary

all

more

very
while

eye

line

more

the

one

Santo.
effect

which,

still

seems

the

the
is

partly

from

marble.

by

column

the

apart

columns

the

of

dwell

the

surrounded,

are

shade

than

rnarble,

were

"

imposing

and

from

"

Campo

and

place.

Quite

Cathedral

the

group

famous

the

this

these.

like

the

the

numberless

edifices

the

to

as

arrived

We

interest
such

associated

of

search

such

and

sun,

strikes

in

childish

so

days.

situation

"

singly
of

Pisa,"

were

we

almost

rising immediately

the

more

standing

almost

noble

Baptistery

"

give

for
and

of

school-room

which

stands

turf,

Tower

for

betimes,

with

longed

proceeded

once

that

town,

off

us

Leaning

wish

chosen

generally

green

at

and

buildings

cannot

from

"

the

see

saw

Pisa.

recollections

early

about

reach

to

eagerness

morning

next

to

NATURE

AND

but

we

But
Yet

such

only

is

with

there

its
is

UNDER

confusion
which

and

I cannot
with

satisfied

recorded
I

specimen.

remark

by

roof
a

self

arches

is

cathedral)

gilt

but

small

so

striking,

though

soothing

after

usually

space

filled

by

great

antiquity.

but

church

In

silver, also
Two

the

picture

which

by

the

opinion
them

out

chapel

Andrea
does

of
of
del

indeed

the

Sarto
enrich

I admired
this

means

no

left

result

odious

for

altar

much.
cathedral

the

of

are

them

with

here

is

which

an

is

without,

the

of
of

;
cristan
Sa-

the

ornaments
is

Eve

stained

the

whispered,
chief

and

richly

window

think

in

eye

by

has

eastern

L'Annunziata
Adam

The

with

is

one

I
be

must

as

marble.

mosaics,

Notwithstanding,

walls

The

are

which

of

forest

very

brilliant

very

brilliancy

sun,

delicious

truly

marble.

they

gold-grounded

bas-relief

figures by

of

occupied

gigantic

pointed

of

of

majesty

compartments
are

me

terrace

unaccustomed

my

dimness

very

white

themselves

in

flood

heterodox

this

into

let

light pervading
by

and

please

windows

the

is

of

noon-day

the
it

Carrara

blue

divided

that

the

and

this

The

ornaments.

glass,

The

flat,

marble,

supported

are

striped,

does

of

glare

on

the

to

cool, soft, subdued

Parian

are

neither

(and

the

from

aisles
of

much

is

meed

general,

placed

quainted
ac-

this

small

in

being

its

thereby

the

in

pillars

the

above

adding

Five

Corinthian

of

better

which

the

exterior

golden-coloured

the

one's

for

the

on

has
I wish

become
of

may

Beckford

cathedral.

have

not

am

I well

Mr.

very

measure

some

and

be,

architecture

of

effect

steps,

interior.

the

in

shall

style

Passing

on

find

when

bestowed

its appearance.

to

it

this

of

generally

admire.

to

taste, since

my

admiration

admirable

the

in

proportions

the

it should

thus

lie

to

atone

have

reflected

that

the

To

ascended

sufficiently

to

with

comprehend

great

return

praise

about

fault

his

could

irregularity

myself

the

suspect

SKY,

ITALIAN

AN

chased

Serpent.
the

But
is

St.

74

A^nes

the

by

have

hut

we

perpendicular
that

much
the

side

which

to

One

of

which

tower,
thus

The

with

and

interior

with

white

and

Baptistery,
the

Campo

Santo.

the

Campo

Santo

attempting

without
celebrated
similar

cemetery

places

which

was

Land

in

place

of

12C0.

fairy-like

by
Slender

tracery

all

of

of

the

rich

this

whole

the

where

Italy,

has

Archbishop
pillars

filling up

of

name

in

us

for

the

effect,
most
to

all

to

enclose

the

earth

Ubaldo

from

the

Holy

white
the

its

the

spend

general
is

cellence.
ex-

to

left

It

pure

great

hurried

the

given

built

was

time

either

details.

any

It

the

in

it, taking

is of

afford

should

one

and

of

much

so

lapis-lazuli

pulpit

little

In

cupola.

could

we

being

our

variegated

with

the

spend

examine

interment.

brought

of

hells

causing

basso-relievos

was

through

in

12,000

enormous

The

carving.

to

regret

to

ore

Campanile.

security

ornamented

with

walk

merely

or

delicate

glance

is

Bet

strange

building

exquisitely

wished

we

at

sound.

ornamented

as

fall.

reverberation

pillars supporting

hurried

that

weighs

these

so

under

and

side, and

to

close

the

it

of

weight

circular

most

marble,

week

is

the

side

the

font

power

more

from

in

rung

the

indeed,

"

its

"

from

oolite fancy

cause

depth

the

Corinthian
is

agates,

still

swung

Baptistery

marble,

Avas

immense

support

vibrate

to

shew

can

bells

tremendous

to

violently

fabric

the

has

tending

tone,

of

might

other

leans

expected

could

could

Campanile

the
It

liness
love-

some

approaching

one

wind

of

is

bells

and

pounds,

chime

tine

these

of

on

; for

painting.

to

had

nervous

leans

breath

left, the

we

it

hasten

to

than

quite

her

examine

to

its appearance

more

felt

the

time

more

in

of

perfect purity

around

obliged

were

even

moment

any

had

startling

even

The
halo

have

to

paintings,
strange,

cast

to

wished

NATURE

master.

same

seems

most

AND

ART

marble,

arches

they

with

the

support.

76

ART

with

merit

told

him

request

lie

visit

his

to

of

manage
when
small

in

small

the

his

to

classic

silver

large
with

small

no

like

more

couple,

trussed

his

father

visit

this

that
think

often

shall

witnessed

people

in
at

she

was

with

happy
interest

Italy,

sunny

the

of

and

looking

visit

venerable
group.
wife

young

she

immediately
to

should

belong

home
of

but

to

me.

scene

serve

some

nie,

when

little

the

to

family

seems

he

with

months

pretty

which

the

four

the

again

that

when

of

mournful

away

gracefulness

pretty

nation,

going

was

all,

somewhat

looked

in

exhibited

being

sixteen,

head,

fashion,

completed

them

which

presented

the

babe

human

mother,

gratify

to

She

with

added,

and

husband

her

than

clean,

than

She

little

merry

and

for

taste

on

plaits.

extraordinary

their

chicken

seemed

particularly.
heard

in

bed-room

more

low

very

ground-

hair, arranged

beautiful

the

reached

Ferdinando

girl, not

the

see

beautifully
of

pay

surprised

the

was

pride

here,

to

we

on

rooms,

degree

and

through

up

streets

vegetable shop

young

satisfaction,

bundled

old,

general

bodkin

several

neat

to

me

agreeably

was

special

my

little curious

and

previously

conduct

to

nut

evident

eyes

so

at

was

evinced

quite

manner

and

Everything

With

black

bright

very

behind.

me,

Livorno,"

evening

and

two

prepared.

wife

with

fruit

arrangements

not

was

had

traversing

and

front,

parlour,

and

My

with

He

cottage,

After

house,

floor

Italian

an

did.

child.

and

wile

the

in

back

came

"

in

was

Rome.

to

us

convey

home

his

us

to

NATURE

AND

our

own

W
.

Next
the

douaniers,

called
strict
fastened

it

morning

"

plomb"

who
the

wras

came

lead

balls

to

search

upon

saw

all

each,

the

for

prepare

trunks,

our

After

luggage.

investigation they

to

necessary

boxes

squeezing

civil

and
and

locked,
the

balls

visit

from
is

what
not

very

and

then

flat

with

Nl"Ki;

We
a

which

instrument

an

had

to

great

left

it

road

Era

at

was

day
but

inn,
town

had

we

Boccaccio.

be

might

able

Finding

the
to

escape

black,
to

and

and

fine,

the

and

mosaic
and

red

tessellated
shaded

the

roof

represented

Beccafumi,

dark
with

so

gray

great

representing

fine

ment
monu-

unaccountable
lost

were

or

that

early,

Ave

It

and

is

Figures
finest
Eve

piece

of

The

interior,
ordinary
and

and

leaving

stained

the
the

we

figures

stars.

of
not

interior

of

beautifully

but

the

peculiar

window

attraction

this

alternate

the

gold

our

in

most

carvings

with

kind.

white.

is

of

pillarsof
rich

made

finest

built

effect

studded

common,
into

the
;

less
comfort-

and

me

circular

its

Adam

and

gladly

seen

the

greatest

taste

poet

Italian

we

clustered

is

of

the

gloomy

to

with

blue,

the

unrivalled

pavement
from

The

is
is

yet

marble,

end

poor

very

This

Sienna

the

appeared

adorned

each

At

vineyards.

monument

afforded,

have

eye.

pavement

quite

it

white

and

capitals

foliage.

glass,

we

unaccustomed

an

are

cathedral

architecture

of

style

the

The

people.

some

reach

in

us

town

"

by

Bianca,"

cathedral.

detain

the

best

to

its fine

to

of

church,

the

and

anxious

visit

to

nothing

inn

tomb

were

some

but

memory,

the

We

destroyed.

the

resting-place

it is

residence

in

buried
his

to

both

negligence

the

The

carriage.

civil

dinner

through

years

was

erected

walk

more

L'Autriche

very

to

once

first

"

at

and

Poggibonsi

some

He

slept

we

house,

nice

for

was

night

reached

we

Our

been

previously

the

us

arrival

our

ourselves

friend

old

interesting.

comfortable

tolerably

next

that

and

had

dogana.

it cleared

awaited

find

to

the

of
but

horses

and

our

particularly

not

was

seal

ceremony,

home

returning
in

the

Ferdinando

carriage

settled

comfortably

SKY.

for this

journey.

the
like

was

ITALIAN

imprinted

francs

our

where

Pisa,

at

of

part

left

ten

pay

AN

softly

scenes

are

saw

was

the

Garden

by

78

ai;t

of

Eden

the

after

Fall.

is boarded
the

although

effect,

but

costly ornaments,
kept

are

soft,

so

kind

I could

of the

Before

returning

which

of

church

the

"

of

determination

this

multitude
kittens

anything

Constantine

in

other

Francesco

of

times

popular

The

those

following

utterly
grass,

of

devoid
not

else

under

the

result

our

"

after

than

with

forms,

impress

to

by recording

it.

the

like

more

not

and

wonderful

horrible

I wish

to

way

almost

wretches,

but

picture

was

more

little

see

was

of

Baptism

Vanni.

the

with

areas

open

Republic,

were

gates

thirty-eight only
journey

interest,
of

it is not
over

as

be

can

;
the

neither
whole

in

used

for

of

Sienna

nine

grow

is it rock
district

ancient

Not

still

are

dreary,

as

in

and

games

remain.

now

imagined.

will

Mangia,

the

which,

truly

was

kind,

any

Delia

its lofty tower,

The

day's

clay spread

the

antique

found

we

struggling

memory

my

large

of

shrub

Soil, indeed,

burnt

of

amusements.

though

so

by Spagnoletti,

Pubblico,
of

remarkable,

of

by

one

flourishing

soil.

St. Jerome

Palazzo

stands

of

to

anything

see

anything
on

anxious

hunting

go

looking

revolting

so

with

pleased

The

than

rats

or

found

the

and

;"

mass

deformed

of

saw

examining

marble,

was

deal,

to

confused

of

great

again
did

ever

century.

inn,

brilliant

celebrated

the

saw

Greek

Agostino

Never
dark

St.

never

pictures !"

the

to

heard

had

in

in

hour

an

Ave

thirteenth

the

in

also

Graces,

Three

foundations

spent

and

which

in

The

anything

opened

carving

library,

Missals.

surpass

injures

be

can

its rich

the

to

on

ment
pave-

course,

parts

for

illuminated

have

Here

exquisite designs.
group

passed

yet gorgeous,

and

that

is remarkable

we

of

it, which,

managed

so

exquisitely

most

colours,
this

it is

wonderful

this

of

great part

preserve

Chigi Chapel

The

n]".

A
to

over

NATUKE

ani"

and
blade

this

wretched

but

far

as

species
the

eye

UNDER

It

reach.

can

have

thus

the

over

wandered
are

least,

at

on

long heavy
"

wind

and

it looked

one's

and

black

all

around.

the

The

through
would

hearth,
for
and
the
down

of

be

the

here

suggesting
logs

some

singing
bright
some

on

of

storm

!"

In

the

it.

flickering
curtains

How
the

cheering

wood

soon

we

There
of
over

is
a

the

scene

wood
the

as

from

had

always
fire

windows,

of

to

fire,

lively

and
and

go

we

horizon
for
it

back,

spied

sending

blaze

drawn

away,

storm
thunder-

and

when

met

haunt

something
;

far

fitting

sitting-room

idea

about.

the

turned

Italy

that

fearfully grand
large

in

visionary

spread

with

look

the

up

long
Verily

of

to

inn

The

the

tales

spite

desolate

bandits

out

was

looked
and

;
"

mind,

my

in

so

rolled

country

small

rooms.

wilderness

cloud

tinued
con-

Again

on

travellers'

off,dreary

of

for

not

went

monotonous

whole

if

early,
I

solitary

up

empty

of

wind,

masses

genius

ghosts,

far

not

barren

heavy

very

passed

gaze

of

gusts

height

half

yet

was

to

we

troops,
is

road

dismally through

recollections

It

the

or

Climbing
my

childish

associated

terrors,

for

in

night's quarters.

our

moaning

abode

an

high

as

towns,

Guirico,

miles,

grapes

these

frightfully steep.

stone-floored

large

like

which

and

The
San

some

for

of

follow

and

standing

stopped

we

is

after

you,

d'Orcia,"

howling

was

passages,

are

Scala

There

plain.

it

where

feast

of

most

at

covered
dis-

we

clusters

coins.

and

ascent,

drag brings

La

small

eminence,

rocky

called

for

wearisome

and

in

as

walk

delicious

creatures,

scrambling

and

begging

The

to

us

inhabitants,

wretched-looking

most

town

inviting

Buon-

at

cultivation,

of

signs

more

must

dined

usual

our

luxuriantly.

grew

The

We

country.

During
with

hedges,

on.

whole

road

devastation

volcanic

some

town.

country

vine,

hung

the

waste

7'J

SKY.

ITALIAN

if

as

small

the

seems

laid

convento,

AN

crackling
cheerful
I

had
a

in
let
table

so

ART

close

in

round

even

in

that

of

parts

again

forgotten

all

tremendous

which
of

thunder

succeeded

thunder-storm

and

do

continuation

of

to

the

barren

through

the

deep

day

basalt

as

night

and

long
the

on

Ghino

di

Rigo,

awful

had

passed
still

became

where

we

to

A
bad

first
the

to

steep

told

inn

us,

piastre
with

fare,

to

Here
benefit

easily

which

and

to

settled

uncivil
we

the
host

are

more

tain,
moun-

Castle
the

at

stream,

the
ten

but

the

and

francs'

times

tier
fronworth

potent

ever

We

hostess,
accustomed.

of

arrived

Papal

business.

of

valley

shortly after,

our

us,

the

on

"

to

an

rapid

Centino

Ponte

at

raftered

ruined

leads

descent

large

black

up

is the

cone,

through

pass

ceased

time

bad

the

higher

all

grandfather

my

its

of

and

there,

by

and

masses

Eadicofani,

with

Still

custom-house.

and

of

of

very

little

passare

assistance
the

summit

and

described

witches,

passages."

dark

miserable

lascia

for

Huge

here

next

us

Radicofani,

of

passed
inn

the

Ferdinando

as

station

is

brought

Formone.

tossed
We

abode

Tacco.

the

of

been

it

very

impassable,
the

ravine

road

mountain

volcanic

house:

fitting

roofs

for

it

the

dreary

same

obliterated.

straggling
"

the

have

to

seem

vegetation

of

and

sank,

shake.

to

more

When

remember.

not

house

and

crash

terrible

the

flame,

quiet.
A

at

of

came

lurid

had

there

by

instantly

hours,

some

completely

wind

the

away,

for

fireside,

when

storm,

foundation

very

peal

the

and

room,

the

caused

circumstances

the

of

accompanied

wind,

whole

the

tions
descrip-

graphic

the

from

warmth

for

fears

of

ing,
refresh-

doubly

them.

genial

my

blast

lighted

Peal

the

comfort

home

seemed

tea

interesting

more

of

grandfather's

my

perused

about

look

was

Our

room.

fancied

enjoying

Thus

dreary

these

which

in

fire, there

the

I almost

and

NATURE

AND

in

met

tion
addiNot

UNDER

after

long
and

cut

most

doctor

it after

by throwing

cascades

dash
built

town,
Lake

of

into

on

hill

lofty hills,covered

the

ruins,
of

the

fissures

them

not

and,

be

hidden

for

amid

in

its

not

been

able

scourge

it

all

so

tliing almost

thought
centre

of

plague

was

the

of

in

its

lake.

vicinity after

fertile

and

beautiful

fearful

to

shrouded

and
in

been

in

and
we

It

heavy
could

it !
F

is

sunset,

district.

and

no

No
for

fancy

There

of

labourer

is

labourers
has

one

terrible
is

but

hovered
the

deed
in-

soine-

calamity

fancy,

that

and

adequate

the

tills invisible

vapour

of

malaria

the

lake.

be

seen,

treacherous

told

the

be

sound

no

"

even

were

and

dwelling

vegetation,

might

portions

profusion

human

assigned
a

stranger

effects.

dark

lake,

of

geology

tiful
beau-

stillness

utter

it, not

We

by

lights, proving

waters

of

to

are

this

Bolseno

Lago

ever

the

reached

has

its

Not

upon

form.

the

night

of

the

Etruscan

are

amidst

luxuriance

fatal

most

in

save

we

this

appears,

in

invisible

hour

examine

to

sail

beauty

remain

dare

reason,

The

seen

the

at

this

of

Very

with

feeling

strange

around

"

But

next

flowers, caverns

at

surrounded

Valsinium,

wild

twinkling

habitations.

shores

of

city

among

mentions,

reigns

the

ancient

the

first view

There

valley.

more

numberless

summit.

sides,which

loveliness, a

voices
to

the

mountain

human

be

loneliness

the

once

is

shores,

their

to

pillars strewed
the

Nature's

on

of

Beckford
to

wood

and

the

picturesque

into

remains

in

Mr.

as

with

wood

Lorenzo

obtained

we

humane,

wound

road,

San

ceeded
pro-

than

the

fine

the

below.

its

descent

Corinthian

line

whence

with

of

fell

Ferdinando

upon

sight

trees

ravine

road

horses

our

national

more

the

of

one

whereupon

the

81

SKY.

place,

manner

from

olive

Bolseno,

is

welcomed

and

cork,

terribly

dust

dry

gladly

oak,

ill-starred

its knees
to

We

this

leaving

ITALIAN

AN

"

we

tainly
cer-

over

the

spiritof

the

82

ART

The

picturesque

from

the

tea,

with

was

as

of

It

own.

as

reach

Yiterbo

suited

the

afternoon

at

the

character
who

those
We

got

slowly

winding

Ave

looked

all

around,

hiding
fall

the
the

or

walk

The
the

the

lay

in

the

could

was

not

either

shrunk

subtle

beauty

in

all

at

least,

else,

he

have
of

but

like

from
on

the

bosom

of

of

the

with

the

road,
still

and

sunshine
within

dark
with

spoils,

flowers

wild

encased

contest

on

rested

radiant

the

scene

as

curtain,

that
the

the

side

lay

own

the

diamonds

bright

the

by

were

we

was

They
of

which

as

gathering

beams.

rising

lake

lovely

now

hills, permitted

the

the

in

movements

scattered

banks

mist,

of

part
We

had

of

had

thousands

wooded

morning

Very

his

the

as

the

late,

or

early

morning,

early

sun

beneath
on

this,

so

shortening

even

regards

the

mist

bright

early,

Ferdinando

class, who,

ascent.

dewy

off

arrive

to

In

as

before.

not

set

and

and

there,

starting early

"

see,

his

been

were

mercy.

in

steep

up

tops

on

place

at

fondness

mountains.

day,

their

enamelled

while

the

far

which

"

to

tyrants

glittered

lingering
which

being

to

on.

they

as

so

out,

of

they

excellent

desirous

were

generality

of
are

we

to

night's quarters.

our

from

wished

we

if

rest,

Our

wishes,

our

found

we

what

inquired

it had

and

us,

on

Marchioness

that

room

time.

good

meet

what

best

differed

to

the

Amid
rested

eye

and

had

they

After

hook.

my

expected,

fancy

refreshed

in

me,

Marquis

as

and

clean

windows.

handwriting.

to
to

rest

ready

mid-day

the

interest

an

night's

always

was

pleasant

good

to

's

for

The

name,

occupied, and,
was

lent

certainly

interest

no

the

traveller's

the

distance

little

some

from

up

"

and

dear

had

they

our

as

in

,"

rooms

of

hand

view

took

wont,

is at

prettily situated,

very

exquisite

names

well-known

Bolseno

inn

an

my

strange

many

The

lake.

nicely kept,

of

town

NATURE

Nl"

the

genius
the

waters

orb
!

of
of

84

ART

with

wood.

volcanic

of

been

In

the

centre

in

tombs

of

wand

proud
the

chariot

the
a

passes
he

of

world

broken

along

nation

and,

!"

his

and

and

of

the
:

believe,

whole

panse
ex-

the

of

arches

shew

the

sound

Yet

bowed

the

fair

sons

thousands

amidst

so

in
I

giant
looked

the

Cresar

mighty
he

saw

"

laurels, he
is

that

scene

kings

add

are

there

west,

"

leads

for

stayed,

bright

in the

of
the

waters,

went

with

and

car

trophies

many

he

the

on

approaches

the

the

magic
phant
Trium-

high,

forth

with

The

World

of

dome

as

onwards

of

and

temples,

on

the

of

longed

so

plains.

Captive

island

of

connected

glory, prisoners
the

had

we

those

eagle's flight

heads.

of

for

"

crowned

even

conqueror's

theatre

! and

"

horizon

sky, rising

arise

triumph

fresh

now

of

nines,
Apen-

the

stupendous

waved

sped

the

the

events

people

Emperor

as

in

recollection.

my

multitude

troops
feet

and

eagles

the

arch

the

hearts

splendour

the

assembled

veteran

is at

"

Rome

warriors

"

City

beneath

his

by

towTers,

clear

was

to

anew

on

the

upon

haughty

the

side

object

the

and

associations

seemed

victories

of

the

City,"

there

rushed

passed

conquered

back

every

flood

Seven-Hilled

voices

plain,

against

out

Yes,

rolled

thousand

the

interest

Eternal

all.

fancy

banners

plain

vast

numbers,

history

hosts

is,

glittering

"

world's

the

"

standing

it what

upon

that

the

one

ocean

"

above

majesty

Monterosi,

of

view

on

world-wide

of

countless

Peter's

cloudless

the

by

of

the

upon

what

enjoyed

bounded

us,

silver, lay

has

look

of

heights

the

arc

Etruscan

an

eruptions.

its

by

we

and

other

that

years.

St.

of

girdle

much

to

the

on

Vico

of

extinct

an

around.
before

out

and

clear

country

Spread

di

of

crater

traditions

are

which

of

rarely obtained,

the

overwhelmed

Lago

summit

be

to

there

been

beyond

the

like

and

have

to

little

from

supposed

mountain,

city, said
A

is

It

NATURE

AND

the
are

to

the

from

sometime

AN

I'NDKK

esteemed
the

too

world

won

when

of

"

glorious

with
all

away

solitary tenement,
the

or

wretched

tender

herbage,

and

scanty

what

reared

purpose

tell.

this

And

That
with

night
miserable

stage

from

inn

to

scarce

little

horses,

the

imperial

city.

hole,

last

! it

waters

of

tombs.

lines

came

passed
and

be

seen

vine-dresser,
the

among

passing

traveller

ancient

tower,

for

refuse

to

stones

this

the

"

at

Ronciglione

crowded

with

flowing
As
to

we

my
"

Whose
Titus'

La

"

the

to

way

dirty town,

poor

the

people, being

the

first

Storta,"

passed

beneath

recollection,
arch

or

or

wre

"

had
ere

yellow
wilderness

noble

meets

No;

rest

"

nuns

archway,

of

Time!"

was

from

entering

of

me,

'tis that

to

Tiber,"

"

pillar

Trajan's?

where

the

on

through

here

departure

our

pilgrimage

our

look

day's journey

next

hastened

we

in

to

strange

was

"

and

pause

"

its

quest,
con-

throughout

restrained,

be

miserable

Oh

the

Rome.

impatience

Our

have

feed

some

Rome

to

of

may

crumbling

world

the

spent

we

of

of

all

din

ragged

the

visions

Stillness

which

from

blackened

entrance

of

mistress

proud

once

lie

mother

became

there

the

goats

fragment

is the

the

were.

and
for

away

the

lone

the

war,

that

Here

few

start

ruined

the

perchance

or

of

reign

shall

the

circumstance,

habitation

meet

"

present
of

things

her.

around

reign

desolation

the

and

the

among

now

"

Eternal"

thought,

of

tumult

pomp

shall

"

and

The

their

all

"

till

they

now

ages

ruins

of

chain

away,

sadly prominent.

more

future

fitly named

this

faded

past

in

shore,

And

mure.

who

chaos

very

With

nations."

dead

the

dust

in

prostrate

crowd

but

seemed

no

its

to

conqueror

him

offer

captive

who

she

the

tempt

could

the

with

mingle

to

mean

85

SKY.

ITALIAN

to

the
the

cross

and

Byron's

In

of

the- midst

wend

our

only

"

Hotel

de

though

the

not

that

cutting

rest, in

journey

much
do

thankfulness

that

Rome.

to

return

that

beheld

Here,
dinando,
south

alas

as

it

he

attentive

place
We

of

and

the

secure

did

he

had

man

to

shorter

civil,

tune

but

for

also, having
could

not

to

in

first

and

us

fort
com-

regret,

with

whom
fully.
faith-

us

family

take

four

right

personal

serve

with

could

it

mutual

with

Fer-

farther

go
feel

not

of

Naples
he

my

trusty

"voitmier"

the

there,

St.

proposed

our

did

parted

care

return

with

amount

greater

to

so

of

which

on

we

sum

to

both

our

arrangements

give

what

yet

remembered.

part

to

from

come

day
be

to

We

long

our

borne

it until

defer

one

for

of

we

possible, surpassed

the

his

except

attendance.

anxious
in

suit

not

engagement,

an

was

less, and

to

charges

many

This

as

did

season,

his

from

made

I shall

obliged

were

which

and

day

impressions

my

if

nay,

is

was

one

has

of

any

equalled,

but

expected.

Nevertheless,

we

give merely

and

been

glorious temple

that

at

it

imaginings.

ardent

most

have

us

that

waiting

purpose

save

it

is

and

fatigue

upon

sible
impos-

evening,

term,

and

fortable
com-

so

was

following

and

tell

to

could

than

not

Peter's,

to

beginning

better

the

of

Piazza

city,
it

It

same

The

excitement

the

as

that

"

the

found

we

we

liberty.

at

the

mistake.

the

back.

us

acceptation

every

were

for

cause

sent

to,

go

little

set

entering

to

piastre

of

corner

on

to

regret
for

out

soon

needed,

greatly

not

going
wind

east

therefore

to

speedily
the

at

intended

we

did

we

resist

to

one

stands

had

we

thanks

were

"

hand

at

and

form,

Russie

quite

reminiscences

but

;"

dogana

the

la

NATURE

interesting

"

the

through

delPopolo,"

of

these

to

way

went

The

we

AND

ART

m.

us

horses.

any

degree

on

Tuesday

for

and

much

He

supply

was

the

Ferdinando.
left

Rome

about

eight

o'clock

morning

UNDER

had

and
our

mi

road

the
cnlers

ancient

of
road.

owe

memorable

during

our

of

Apostle;

who

he

contrast

"

of

prisoner

of

tame

hold

must

remain

amid

those

high

passed
tidings

of

darkness
saints
heart

Lord,"
About

who

within

in
of

hour

when

gates

of

the
the

joy"

in

the

which
four

hours'

be

to

first

of

shadow

issue

travelling

the

and

Apostle

to

bringing
were

which
voice

majesty

with

him

then

"sitting

in

in

preparing,

"glad

"

the

brought

way

triumph
us

the

"

wondrous

that

on

Gentiles

the

death," strengthening
and

the

Nazarene

many
the

tell

to

Word

of

throne

who

many

day

more

Rome,

empire,
one

no

this

of

earth,

despised
Eternal

that

the

household,"

heathen
shall

of

around

the

of

records
shall

time

Caesar's
the

the

in

stand

great
and

follower

humble

the

of

mighty

these

city,
from

ceased

have

as

what

me

approach

shall

men

of

conquests

till

bless

will

yet when

and

fort
com-

Oh,

before

humble

the

was

the

imperial

the

splendour

visionary

in

with

when,

courage."

into

entry

holy

the

and

to

as

the

by

sympathy,

took

St.

of

feelings

same

him

this

to

Taverns"

their

and

God

triumphant

place

of

steps
foot-

the

is

trodden

welcome

to

days

narrative

the

Three

been

the

interest

simple

once

"

proof

thanked

the

of

Rome

Monterosi,

and

path

it

an

with

the

at

this

the

weary

entrance

from

passed

heights

shall

meeting

he

to

had

the

the

from

told,

which

along

came

derived

are

the

his

"

brethren

to

passage

the

Rome

journey

dwells

one

recollections

the

un

deep

so

read

not

here

mind

imparts
did

before

Never

Paul's

which

man

is

interest

since

repaired,

it

But

empire.

history supplies the

which

we

much

even

passes

probably

has

It

Mars

which

through

Way.

of

Temple

feelings of excited

Appian

scarcely

the

and

Giovanni,

is with

It

celebrated

changed,

the

of

the

on

little

Naples.

to

Coliseum
San

Porta

the

to

way

the

of

glimpse

SKY.

ITALIAN

AN

of
Albano.

the

in
the

very

of

the

Cross.
This

ART

with
Ik

uses

of

time

it without

Though

had

we

exertions

our

which

the

and

the

reach

of

the

still in

its

deep

breeze

gentle

Around

its

their

of

flowers

the

blossom,

swarmed

in

Cisterna,

night
Tone

by
the
a

quarter

the

Treponte,

the

minutes

branches

frequently

using

the

esque
pictur-

after

leaving

myrtle

and

these

flies which

ting
get-

fragrant

covered
fans

as

with
for

we

"

every

"

their

with

carriage,

them

little

eminences

laden

myrtle,

from

out

of

among
of

of

multitude

afternoon

carriage.

somewhat
;

almost

stopping

few

several

gathered

annoyed

resist

not

is

air

to

grow

The

shrubberies

through

beneath.

rocky

time,

some

to

wooded

waters,

additions

great

blast,

the

on

brushwood.
on

lie

answered

hue, peeping

situated

the

winter

ripple

its

you

to

depths

by

as

seems

the

stood

we

every

For

till

for

wralk

to

tangled

are

passes

could

Scarce
as

of

are

and

or

washed

scene.

arbutus,
I

starry

were

the

road

and

lake,

of

the

Nemi

and

storm

transparent

the

among

the

fragrance.

trees.

the

wild

Alicia

out,

into

us

lovely

beauty

daphne

recess.

almost

overhanging

Albano,

summer

fanned

It

in

extinct

an

beautiful,

bosom.

sun,

basin

of

as

glad

broiling

deep

crater

well

as

unruffled

and

leafy bowers,

towns

singular

shores,

of

profusion

that

looked

and

banks,

is

dark

upon

the

calm

effect

the

finding-

gentlemen.

The

help

always

these

under

rewarded.

evidently

its

down

below

is

lies,

the

and

volcano,
look

lake

in

are

of

hill

steep

amply

were

we

services

the
a

and

the

the

By

succeeded

we

rounded
sur-

for

rest

Albano.

Lago

and

ground,

mid-day

guide,

with

climb

to

the

of

dispense

can

Our

directions,

assistance

the

we

visit

to

rising

on

citron.

confused

rather

sundry

of

groves
us

gave

when

situated

beautifully

is

town

NATURE

AND

leaving

and

gloomy
it

occupying

at

six
the

comfortless

next

site

of

inn,

morning,

and

Appii

Forum,

was

our

passing
men-

UNDER

tioned
entered
are,

the

by

in many

"

water

in

VI.

there,
the

if

place,
time

some

with

in

arrival

at

victim

the

above

away

and

Naples,

of

the

effect

of

on

few

side

by
vents
prein

resting

terrible

seemed

ascribed

of

to

was

gentleman

the

crossing

the

along

us

plains

malaria

delicate,

the

shady

marshes

too

his

on

he

fell

to

of

whole.

the

for

heat
our

At

building,

part

one

place,

strange

high parts

was

usual

{ire

some

so

of

and

House
the

little

Indian
and

the

pice
preci-

For

particularly

rock,

adds

to

ruins

of

could

we

cutting

fig form

Etruscan

intense,

walk.

of

town

fortress, merely

and

cactus

There

the

place

this

little

impregnable
of

extent

situation.

striking

an

yards

The

rock.

their

end,

miles.

above

The

one

interest, but
a

the

into

there.

and

palm-tree,

for

proved,
im-

exaggerated.

previously

and

rock

converted

addition
here

bold

and

house,

fine

seek

being

and

perfection

danger

attack

an

twenty-five

appropriate hangings

much

with

rising ground

about

been

the

seized

was

occupies

has

by

day,

of

around;

undeceived.

acquainted,

The

sunshine

the

the

least

at

sadly

too

was

all

Terracina
rises

all

the
of

prised
sur-

several

either

on

with

think

to

of

carried

little

so

unfounded,

not

first

in

being

trees,

by

barrenness

horses

trot,

stagnant

its effects.

to

At

and

the

full

at

from

raised

state

trees

the

little

inclined

later

whom

late

road

almost

of
of

certainly

up

gradually

present

avenue

spirited

plains

was

its

to

they

marshes.

taken

road

bad

we

whole, agreeably

far-famed
been

the

sensible

so

level

green
I

and

The

four

our

and

the

on

VII.

being

as

smooth

has

finally brought

and

one

short,

draining

found

growing

the

on

was,
these

successively,

till

reeds

through

after

Desolate

hut

yet

of

task

Popes

Pius

seen

passing

Herculean
the

be

89

shortly

we

marshes.

parts nothing

to

are

Pontine

SKY.

ITALIAN

historian,

sacred

the

on

AX

few

moments

only

1)0

ART

stum

we

the

mi

town

the

overhangs

Papal
road

is

excellent,
Way.

gemmed

with

mantle

of

purple

The

on

salt

passing

the

Neapolitan

having

at

the

pains

to

the

fact.

the

said

had

we

the

paid
of

for

fascia

and,

town,
services

disagreeable

on

sea,

looking

Fondi

to

approaching

beautiful.

with

is
a

water's

in

edifice, which

Cicero,

side

whose

custom-house

di

Graeta

assassination

the

garden

It is erected
said

little

to

and

the

other

are

more

with

lake

been

testify

himself

behind
in

own

the

before
of

mercy

from

and
to

us

his

of

amined
ex-

A
so

frontier,

the

at

cast

town.

disappeared

his
most

officials.
had

we

The

sloping

have

been

the

near

this

place

the

of

favourite

an

we

shore,

it

from

foundations

the

the

which

to

upon

down

upon

into

out

hotel

close

town,

surpassingly

jutting

bay.

drive

delightful

becomes

scenery

promontory

of

orange

is

the

latter

of

us

of

perched

quietly

of

outskirts

delicious

edge.

Mola

upon

one

the

set

the

Built

it forms

drove

had

flowers

on

the

all

errand

some

rocks,

pestiferous

site

officials

the

steep

kinds,

the

at

had

required, leaving

were

From

who

had

accordingly,

the

the

of

witness,

to

search,

The
of

passports

came

passare

one

carriage, probably

we

the

Way.

where

once

annoying

taking

Our

been

by

of the

barrier

side,

have

to

very

the

where

precipice

foundation

ing
seem-

begins.

different

rugged

many

after

water,

Fondi

over

and

sea.

beautiful

of

too,

so

actually

foundations
side

of

variety

the

the

one

on

Heaths,

which

kingdom

on

bordered

washes

sea

Shortly

constructed

heat
Outside

of LantuLe.

pass

Neapolitan

endless

myrtle.

side.

still

an

of

the

over

the

is

into

the

hotel.

rock,

it almost

and

It

shrubs

our

watch

the

to

enormous

an

I felt

there

even

return

to

road, pushing

end,

States

Appian

of

under

keep jealous

to

but

obliged

was

drove

we

NATURE

rocky shore,

overpowering,
the

AND

to

the

ancient
villa

is commemorated

of

92

straight

which

avenue,

met

picturesque

and

coloured

But
did

in

turn

the

the

once

The

looking

than

in

and

white

pure

from

either
the

out

skies

and

twilight

busy

and

bewildering

lamps,

reflected

repassing

and

passing

in

jewellery

palaces, piazzas,

the
hurried

most

had

the

"

Hotel

of

Italian

the

that

it

her

again.

was

des

faithful

with
Our

real
tea

we

ere

we

On

mirrors
of

of

people

carriages

cries

and

hither

voices

and

had

fountains,
reached

at

which

we

length

the

with

the

cities.

For

received

were

we

Madame

years

many

attendant

of

gratification
was

ing
even-

Toledo.

crowds

human

and

Etrangers,"

kindness.

cordial
been

that

the

"

churches,

told

liveliest

and

gayest
At

all

past,

of

of

drew

many-coloured

The

rapid driving

Babel-confusion

the

thither,

the
"

from

or

and

glittering

from

crimson,

gone

the

with

windows.

the

of

street

of

upwards,

on

glory

us

column

beneath,

well-nigh

was

to

rich

passed
the

away

parent
trans-

nearer

to

crater

we

the

curled

almost

the

again

and

again

it

as

illuminated

shops,

dazzling

side

sparkling

died

rapidly

short

either

and

Rapidly

sun.

the

the

entered

and

setting

of

unheeded.

against

point

for

instant

same

much

highest

and

view,

the

at

relief

ascended, glowed
fire

Vesuvius.

full

seem

its

slowly,

rose

reflected

Naples,

to

near

the

orna-

anxiously

so

comparatively

was

to

From

was.

it

as

the

of

rays

which

as

them,

into

length

beautiful

distinct

so

it

often

grapes,

first sight of

us,

in

out

smoke

spreading

it at

before

front

reality

to

the

for

out

stood

sky,

attend

Custom-house,

dingy

mountain

of

we

handkerchiefs

red

gay

baskets

to

brought

tiresome

its

reared

time

little

road

in

peasants,

Capua,

beyond

becomes

road

flowers.

bright

keep

we

of

groups

had

we

the

shirts, earning

with

mented

NATURE

AND

ART

one

very

for

dear

to

forward

I looked

prepared

Ungaro

us

in

to

me,

so

seeing

delightful

UNDER

the

all
to

home,

of

look

think

not

by

the

After

weeks

long

indeed

child, great

dear

good
far

of

accounts

away.

indeed

lately,

the

and

comfortable
after

hotel,

in

fore,
there-

England.

happiness

and

now

order

subject

of

was

occupied
bly
admira-

this

of

so

room,

have

we

our

receive

to

large airy

of

friends

holes

unceasing

an

one

heard

we

valued

bed,

cleanliness
was

since

in

Ungaro

from

letters

our

miserable

the

extreme

conducted

of

all

where

when

so

thankful

of

and

feeling

desolate

more

elapsed
our

was

her,

most

luxury

had

that

strangers

quite cheered,

still

packet

large

been

large city

were

and

welcome,

hands

my

in

we

"

kindly

our

into

put

individual

single

of

kind

and

journey,

long

so

evening,

the

such

after

had

we

generally

is

there

arriving, especially in
knows

that

comforts, wearing

English

many

refreshing

most

grateful

more

it.

with

furnished

apartment

93

SKY.

ITALIAN

AN

remark

and

gratulation.

passed

We
once

in

more

since

us

the

having

and

early,

in

the

as

forthwith

and

early

single
My

rather

after

but

had

melancholy
fatigues.

is

and

cool

it is the

it

the

lodgings,
there

possessions

faces

extremely

to

of

removed

we

our

of Naples

found

we

vouchsafed

in search

Lucia,

migrate

to

precaution

few

part

November

for health

month

first

This

been

had

ourselves

of winter

months

hither

Chiaja,

settled

gratefully

Britain.

Santa

28,

on

abode.

residence,

come

the

last fixed

pleasant

most

at

which

of

and

worship,

busily employed

us

saw

of

place

shores

the

ourselves

pleasure, finding

mercies

many

left

we

morning

Next

English

an

acknowledging
to

with

quiet Sunday

the
and

east, and

agreeable
of all who

wisdom

quarter

warmer

necessary

in

to

of

after

adopt

elapsed.

days'
by
But

an

experience
illness
let

me

of

which

Naples
followed

gratefully

was

my

acknowledge

rendered

long

tinued
con-

that

it

04

ART

proved
I

to

and

daily.

This,

before

AN

SKY.

ITALIAN

sunshine.

the

sensible

be

of

feeling

moving

UNDER

It

elasticity

to

of

the

the

in

of

beauty

extreme

the

atmosphere

the

delightful
living

merely

seemed

and

succeeded,
the

of

effects

enjoyment,

physical

breathing,
added

of

long-

not

was

began

climate.

NATURE

cloud

only

before

clear

AND

increase

to

the

the
scenery

"

interest

exciting

of

"

the

around

everywhere

objects

and,

ns

above

all,

the

fest
mani-

"

to

reason

our

steps

health,

my

congratulate

to

husband's

in

improvement

Naples.

ourselves

that

had
we

ns

gave

been

led

every

to

turn

VISIT

TO

POMPEII.

morning

bright

for

day

did

eagerly

anticipate

with

scarcely

that

pleasure,
sit

railway

the

in

association

strange

So

Pompeii.

this

with

to

could

patience

which

carriage

visit

projected

our

favourable

of

promise

gave

of

"

the

with

present

the

thither.

conveyed

past

us

"

In

Pompeii

was

imagination,

it

strangely

(how

for

it

deepest

myself.

length

At

interest

to

have

of

my

had

stopped

we

Pompeii

the

sounds!)

fate

wish

lingering

many

tragic

the

of

subject

and

behold

to

recollections

earliest

my

at

but

Station;

"

"

on

entering

fully

mile

and

road

the

broiling,

gate

step

brought

road,

and

passing

thrown

for

few

sight

in

out

little

yards,

by

half

from

but

the

Winding
sudden
a

stood

before

that

save

from

the

earth

by

turn,

was

high

cotton-fields,
of

heaps

excavators.

gateway

off

were

day

nothing,

and

vineyards

enormous

we

arched
an

feel

Turning

reached
way

we

us

The

ruins.

could

nearer.

through

the

the

told

us

of

who

guide

dusty,

every

came

found

we

the

and

we

and

side

ashes

of

walking

us.

these

on

the

It
was

96

"

AKT

Gate

"

Herculaneum

of

NATURE

AND

the

Tombs
After

that

into

first

just

are

the

in

Diomede

used

where

feeling

of

of

the

to

Several
of

seats, where
the

of the

affairs
and

sat

dreams

of

future

where
hour

with

sea

taken

whilst

plains,

The

rosy

and

clouds

the

with

skeletons

of

present
a

mother

we

mented
orna-

pondered

the

fond

played
of

broad

glowing

hues

by

breath

the

passed

past

"

child

were

found

on

one

of

these

the
on

blending

!
and

its

in
from

We

groves.

the

at

placid

themselves

every

feet,*

and

mirrored

gazed

bright

her

at

on

mother

Pompeii,

the

on

side

there

and

olive

and
as

he

the

either

on

its varied

wafted

vineyards,

the

and
which

was

away

out

of

child, dreaming

daughters

looked

coasts,

fragrance

melting

strangely

and

ed

whilst

greatness

sat

eve,

the

joyous-heart

sons

its delicious

centuries

of

from

bosom,
rich

the

once

"

sweet

her

sage,
pas-

ashes

and

once

"

With

and

sat

where

Commonwealth,

upon

here

the

vaulted

the

;
her

on

seen.

rise

senators

grave

ridors
cor-

against

gloomy

with

of

golden

jewels

be

where

discovered

crushed

monuments

Tombs,"

once

gazed
his

the

and

of

the

building

skeleton

were

number

left

by

subterranean

is still to

we

the

Diomede,

form

rooms

mosaics

and

hand

one

skeletons

of

horror

next

Street

wife

earliest

The

the

gate

In

the

of her

mark

deposited.
"

this

the

came

were

other.

from

the

been

shuddering

and

the

supposed

have

to

person

in

guide

is surrounded

the
in

strange

was

177G.

the
!

onr

paintings

At

key

the

that

and

garden

cellars, seventeen

as

them,

of

wall,

coins

and

ornaments

dead

The

with

villa

with

pillars.

found,

was

the

of

Dead

followed

we

1771

originally,

were

Corinthian

of

mind,

between

realize

to

Diomede,

principal apartments.

colonnade

one

of

Pompeii,

they

the

Street

City of the

the

moments

on

House
at

as

few

crowded

the

disentombed

Pompeii,

on

for

standing

ideas

new

looked

We

!"'

"

the

to

entrance

"

seats.

UNDER

"The

(welcome,)

silent

that

of

vividly

found

here.

in

fact

by

the

cups

weights

and

place

visited

we

large

oil

domestic
these

of

traces

with

oppressed

in

the

picture, such

past

look

did
we

we

and

wonder

at

realize

that

living,

but

of

the

which

their

the

awe

all is not

so

that

spirit that
!

Again

we

seems

It

that
us,

has

wandered

on,
the

in
";

the

was

details

and

is

Amid
feels

when

came

over

the

jects
ob-

almost

begin

to

tells of the
cold

they

as

we

we

clay

the

frames

they did;
first

and

not

speak
bodily

at

of

dim

It

us.

departed

marble

fluids

buildings.

Everything

is but

and

there

me

and

as

wine

little

same

even

over

animated

inscription,hewn

the

our

with

such

It is not
to

the

where

existence, one

busy

familiar,

it

what

used
of

to

these

think

wake,

steals

life itself is gone

the

the

and

much

discovered,

were

but

reveals

with

places

shop,

following

holding

public

and

is

marks

corn

all around.

stand

mostly

are

"

dead

We

were

baking-house

for

all

grander

history

as

drink, sleep

around

behold,

on

occupy

eat

in

female

Custom-House,"

why,

of

drinks,

grinding

knew

reality

acid

for

around,
the

Vestals

soap,

and

which

Still

amphora?"

the

toilets

Naples

breathing, moving,

shadowy
we

of

impressive

inure

than

life

in

for

scarcely

looked

circular

"

the

manufacture

"

fittest

of

counter.

room,

seemed

the

the

use

hand-mills

far

something

of

succession,

several

found.

House

still in

the

where

shop,

were

in

and

oven,

girls'

its marble

measures

for

young

chief
Still

remembrance

sold, with

upon

ear

"Salve,"

inlaid.

and

cafe, where

were

glasses

or

the

to

ancient

of

Romans,

guide,

"

Close

sort

of

the

entered

touching

articles

and

ornaments

We

the

came

were

by

word

of the

door-sill

letters

unheard

desolation.

the

Eere

the

on

the

day

welcome

scene

and

the

as

all !

is

97

SKY.

ITALIAN

Vestals."

mosaic,

in

distinct

as

the

of

House

AN

form

it is the
to

the

the

we

city

house

door,

as

is

US

ART

the

of

house

noble

of

into

we

this

richest

principal

to

is

laid

were

inhabitants

music

of

many

to

their

into

houses,

places
should

have

been
thev

is

doors
felt

to

fro

for

every

this

species
as

ceUs,

inasmuch

apartments,
must

In

the

of

inner

but

as

struck

in
covered,
dis-

ments
apartrous
nume-

in

these

singularly
be

the

presence
All

of

are

these

of

use

their

designate

one

of

"Peristyle."

from

the

least

traces

some

hours
At

which

the

ment
apart-

couches

while.

In

off

luxuriously

therein.

bed-rooms,

sleeping
think

of

obviate

or

lead

inclined

as

and

to

again

termed

used

to

This

prolonged

the

observed,

colonnade

square

them

the

while

marble

thus

often

explained.

attendance,

be

are.

best

passing

other

fact,

as

in

their

found

be

to

gods.

Tablinum,"

paintings,

and

arrangements,

passage

narrow

or

be

to

slaves

the

"

dining-room.

delighting

household

are

raised

hall, is

Impluvium."

is the

and

or

cushions

the

"

the

In

family.

the

which

opening
recesses,

adorns

hall

possess

during

also

seem

in

frescoes

to

soft

reclined

way

open

found

the

lares," or

the

to

Triclinium,"

generally

these

room,

"

the

of

"

the

surrounded

two

are

called

rain-water,

finest

end

and

"Aresti-

doors

are

which

pavement

entrance

and

hall

ladies

both

rich

the

generally

the

at

drawing-room,

our

is

room

this

the

to

for

mosaics,

feasting

of

the

by

passage,

"Atrium,"

usually placed

the

answering

this

sides

tessellated

were

Opposite

on

the

reservoir

square

this

the

told,

are

the

of

Near

called

sleeping apartments

devoted,

used

small

the

time

same

larger, though

even

dwellings

enter, by

From

small

centre

of

the

giving

In

Sallust.

at

name

perhaps

kind

the

hall

will

of

house

tants
inhabi-

the

yet

"

the

is

You

columns.

into

it,

which

Romans.

liulmn,"

by

of

Pansa,

specimens

are

is

whilst

hewn

houses,

you

"

description

sitiiic

the

tells

lived,

of

iii most

case

NATURE

AM"

the

rooms

larger
court

in

which,
they

must

comfortless

with

the

Km

it

represents

who

reading

is

of

of

group

the

mi

in

Formerly,

in mosaic

just beyond

of

piece

from

removed

of

bygone

wandered

which

niches

and

in

the

mosaic

to

this

form

favourite

mid-day
still
to

days

the
more

recruited
visited
of

an

fare,
the

adjoining

me

of

of

water

vividly
strength

next

oblong

the

the

than
we

street

has

They

are

with

"

It
made

fa

realize

me

However

ever.

resumed

our

public buildings
with

of

and

grapes,

the
but

cy.

the

may

interesting
the

town.

marble,

and

of

luxury
to

my

old

rest,
nary
ordiwell

it seemed
of former

scenes

that

the

nation
imagi-

down

from

be

might

the
"

which
the

sat

we

water

some

per-

cushioned

on

and

figs

in

richly ornamented,

elegance
spot

public

statues

pavement,

cool

the

remain

noblest

stucco,

with

drank

shape, paved

one

beauty

to

softly

so

with

the

this

baths.
tasted

to

relics

associations

baths

once

extreme

ourselves
we

been

visit

after

exquisite effect,enable

In

resort.

provided

having

and

ground
with

fine

interesting

the

cold

tilled
with

idea

an

individual

wide

and

covered

shew

designs

this

things,

Naples.

from

seats

once

yet
white

pure

mere

hot

bronze

walls

but

dog.

painted

was

adorned.

of

across

"

the

the

of

is

them.

went

the

well-known

attractive
once

interest

the

aspect,

art, and

they
and

marble

themselves

walls

scenes

wre

of

pression
ex-

listeners

beware

at

man.

varied

valuable

doubly

surrounds

white

preservation

other

one

the

caution

of

works

deeper

house

The

baths.

far

this

From

the

the

are

fierce

very

rendered

naturally

one

fect

is

enter,

Museum

of

of

each

you

many

the

collection

acquire

they

in

words

objects isolated,

longer

no

The

;i

Canem,"

with
to

through

manuscript.

Cave

these

has,

ages,

around

out

with

dog

hence

beautiful

that

"

of

mosaic,

mosaic

circle

door-sill,as

characters

huge

;i

RE

in

figures

brought

interest

admirable.

NATL'

from

them

to

AND

UT

be,

labours,
The

with
and

Forum

supported

is

by

UNDER

double

of columns.

row

the

righl

Beyond

the

this

adorned

interest

the

which

I sis

niches

Parian

marble,

bronze

which

people.
of

is

stairs

by

himself
We

of

the

columns

of

steps

its

is

wheels

are

visibly

worn

trod

we

It

along

down

rising

tones

and

Corso

the

to

the

on

the
the

veil
cealed
con-

statue,

goddess!
to

of

the

the

local

interest

the

Theatre.

of

city's

columns
now

is

It

ago

part

lie

They

pavement

raised

the

revealed

upon

years

classic

The

came

the

superstitious

moment

finished

proaching
ap-

as

sible
impospointed
Deep

the

tread

and

in

of

"

footpaths,

these

seats,
are

of

from

altar.

the

on,

the

at

thousand

indented

building

strong

no

object

noble

all
But

each

two

proceeded

we

has

feet

touched

of

Orus.

delivered

behind

employed
be

to

stand

fluted

on

mystic

and
this

lips

where,

it,

were

of

steps

worshippers

passing

been

had

and

ascended

marble
and

silent

in

stood

seven

to

on

there

pomegranate,

on

deluded

look

peculiar

Statues

hence

from

priest

fane,

the

close

of

the

and

the

destined

notice

to

tracks

from

workmen

last

were

as

the

never

"

cut

which

public buildings

destruction,

they

rent,

ruined

the

left

one

been

spoke

as

to

now

the

crowd,

swayed

strange

has

mystery

and

long

and

ture
struc-

The

possesses

Elevated

and

the

place,

sacred
so

It

kept

and

of Yenus.

majestic

goddess.

altar,
Isis

of

statues

this
oracles

the

dead

columns.

with

building.

while

and

Temple

Corinthian

their

the

on

still

of justice,

court

to

was

of the

remains

ornamented

are

the

and

preservation,

good

around

railing of

is in

of old

as

cold

was

twenty-eight

walls

pedestals, the

else

Basilica, or

consecrated

was

the

all

]n|

SKY.

shone

sun

graceful

with

of

Temple

the

are

ITALIAN

The

but

glittering pillars,
On

AN

as

of

one

perfect
music

that

as

will

theatre

its

above

another;

though

occupied

ever

again

swell

pillars,its doors,
its
the

vaulted

night

within

its

sages:
pas-

before.

walls,

102

ami

the

wake

life,for

of

city

to

the

third

of

the

the

silence

does,

maddening

created

soon

the

before

of

the

which

that
whose

and

the

sleeps

its

starlight

the

still

Oh

the

doomed

might

bloody

its
games
From

in

music

to

city

to

"

so

all

while

night

parts

this

as

sleep

to

the

multitudes

witnessed

they

pour

in
in

the
:

more,

pering
whis-

freshness!

cool
in

sweetness

the

save

spot

horsemen,

sleep

seemed

assembling
very

breaks

spray,

fancy

my

moonbeam

breath

steeped

have
no

its

theatre
Amphi-

vast

fountain's
in

again

Then

behold

the

bathed

flowers

it woke

often

of

less
cloud-

how

pale

scarce

calmly
pedestals.

the

the

night,

How

beyond

of

lessly
breath-

How

marble

of

as

those

terrible

the

their

from

well

resembled

from

form

the

Gomorrah,

city.

waves

and

too, of

as

and

security.

shadow

murmur

the

Flood,

their

giant

columns,

waking!

no

way

ere

bine

The

deeper

such

not

down

dark

the

save

knows

retrace

sat.

the

marble

scene,

soft

that

its

on

look

skies.

part

in

sat

ing
even-

thought,

the

of

eve

its

luxurious,

unconscious

repose

forms

vaulted
lies

the

as

The

and

peculiarly

so

the

on

pillared, streets

softly ripple

resting

fate

of

busy,

was

the

Sodom

devoted

one

We

past.

gay,

by

serenely still,on

sculptured

How

the

on

the

me,

destruction

whose

How

city.

before

seemed

world's

of

the

on

rose

was

stirring,exciting,

fancy

My

picture

vivid

than

witnessed!

has

once

more

presenting,

the

to

around.

sun

closed

sins

this

last

Pompeii,

dissipated
eve

it

scenes,

itself

for

contrast

buried

This

whole;

the

the

not

excavated.

of

silently looted

and

down,

the

great

so

that

stream

death

of

of

site

the

supposed

is

been

yet

of

the

Ley sleep

the

much
It

has

town

in

eloquence

softest

thousands

listening

over

way

interesting parts

almost

the

our

Amphitheatre.

most

utter

of

of

voice

No

all. lies locked

and

""ue

NATURE

forth.

enthusiasm

resumed

We

the

echoes

their

call

again

AND

ART

for

wherein

to

the
we

pedestrians,

of

office

is

tier

filled,

tier

above

hushed

dark

the

above

rises

sound

is

cry

below.

caverns

the

heard:

lion's

voices

of

the

proclaims
A

hush

breathless

deep

multitudes

horror

is

arena

the

on

the

came

pared
pre-

sembled
as-

picture

in

description

touching

the

turned

trumpets

spell

vividly

Too

!
.

of

like

lay

of

the

din

Another

roar!

gladiators;

the

of

approach

is

eye

flourish

"

seats

The

every

the

is

It

hinn

multitude

all

The

circle.

charmed

robes

jewels

gorgeous

countless

wild

strange

their

the

into

stream

"

"

to

with

their

in

senators

women

living

103

SKY.

attire

holiday

gay

high-born

as

sweep

are

their

in

peasants

ITALIAN

AN

UNDER

Childe

Harold

of

the

"

dying
idea

came

the

among

living

creature

freshness

the

then',

ourselves

save

the

of

song

tearful

it"

unbroken

silence

the

through

lizard,

of

the

bird

breathed

alone

nature

from

noiseless

the

glanced

turned

and

sighed

breeze

walls

solitude

wild

The

me

upon

arches,

the

startlingly

and

here.

acted

seemed

gladiator

mined

the

not

came

of

life

"

the

in

and

quiet
eye

rested

against

that

blighted

it

the

the

on

and

sounds,

mysterious
out

stillness

the

the

was

this

fair

warm

Angel

scene.

vines

green

dark

still

and

fearful

smoking
sky,

bright
of

waved

Death

mountain,

as

that

though
had

summit,
to

passed

in
"

whilst

around;

fiery

only

with

its

standing
remind

over

one

and

VESUVIUS.

November

lgt

close

made

that

mountain,

that

the

to

fell

with

of

wonder

terrible

and

of

top

acquaintance

),."

S*

been

really

have

we

184-3.

Vesuvius

the

burning
childhood,

one's

of

destroyer

cities,

"p
whose

and

had

visits

did

and

enable

not

_s-j^
as

or

has

but

another

to

how

of

as

object,

an

this

at

One

now.

it

is

to

convey

impression

sublime

the

nature,

it

impossible

the

reads

one

heart,

the

of

fear,

made

imagination,

"

of
"

with

all

which

have

this,

makes

strange
feel

you

experienced

ever

The

and
awe,

task

fatigue

of

are

in

it

yet

of

is

There

intellect.

the

and

moral

whole

feel

to

years.

unsatisfactory,

realize

to

wonder

not

idea

adequate

an

the

upon

it

experience

to

do

maturer

were

fully

excited

descriptions

mountain

me

scene.

this

to

in

the

that

often

so

imagination

felt

always

has

history

the

appalled

of

aj^f

eventful

irresistible

in

yourself
before.

concerned,

at

Vesuvius,
is

lighter

in

it

so

than

far

with

was

as

had

and

ultation
ex-

along
system,

unlike

least

of

yet

nervous

upon

circumstances

So

and

curiosity
the

effect

physical

ascending

mingling

the

any

you

me.

difficulty

anticipated.

ART

been

Having
of

fool

him

he

and

up
much

said

of

rejoice

that

clamorous

the

village.
procured

attendants,

with

with

gay

heads,

by
first

The

half

the

Beneath

there,
buried

the

of
in

on

once

and

whose
that

the

which
rung

hot

with

that

city

busy

streets,

their

rugged
covered

wastes

late

season

above

our

somewhat

were

from

the

pered
tem-

mountain.

calculated

what

we

had

and

on

which

hollow
whose
the

sistingcon-

ascent

and

was

over

among

our

sky

trod,

we

once

blue

well

with

to

with

mules,

this

was

way

can

animals,

at

us

rate

any

approached

we

even

met

he

from

open

rays

than

reason

of

across

deep

harmony

feet

Herculaneum,
and

breeze

animals'

palaces,

and

every

tortuous

make

than

as

and

and

more

at

by

is at

one

steps

us

broom,

sun,

mile

lava

led

flowers.

fresh

the

of

commenced

vineyards

bright

associations

forth

gay

lovely

and

and

Spanish

brambles,

instead

ponies

to

he

number

active

route

through

had

our

sometimes

attentive

is

we

competent

The

Resina.

mule-path,

waylaid

is generally

strangers

which

and

him,

mounted

we

with

which

he

us

hours,

experienced,

dread

He

adventure
on

unwilling

not

class

small

of

equally

from

who

set

told

exceedingly

agreement,

his

he

twenty-four

more

chosen

had

we

the

Having

of

wild

of

mountain

the

himself

for

his

by

many

the

doubtless

the

tales

for

him

bargain

abide

to

life

found

with

attempt

satisfied

in

though

better

would

his

twice
We

and

somewhat

be

down

of

iron

before

expedition.

this

on

with

connected

spend

to

oftener.

obliging,

guide

of

father

his

was

the

village at

establishmenl

the

as

"

class, full

his

of

interest

said

he

may

now

traveller's

specimen

thrilling

and

is

who

Resina,

to

105

SKY.

ITALIAN

to

proceeded

we

Salvatore,

good

AN

by railway

mountain,

well-known

"

UNDER

conveyed

named

man

is

the

NATURE

AND

in

t^" call

prospect.
here

sound,

gorgeous
mountain

lay

and
the

temples,
poured

106

ART

death

ruin

and

hundred
toil

above

beauty

knew

of

three-quarters
the

Hermitage,

the

used

as

constantly
character

for

we

which

spreading

torrent,
houses

and
the

desolation

The

this

vast

only

its

imagine
its

with

all

This

it

in

their

fantastic

required

half

wreaths

Hermitage

projecting

from

the

ravine

either

cross.

sweep
down

for

on

of

the

from

if

so

to

airy

site

rest

for

inclined,

the

in

by
a

with

on

it is safe

risk

few

the

suddenly

rusty

bread

and
and

to

fruit

iron,

retained.

promontory
a

deep

from

the

being

Here

earthquake.

minutes,

pools,
whirl-

having

of

that

journeying

all times

at

considerable
the

dark

and

can

then

and

all

elevated

an

of

its mad

toilsome

and

and

appearance

river

rocks,

mountain,

that

so

lava, though
its

travellers

side,

slow

stands
of

side

of

the

into

second

nothing

us

agitated shapes

and

hour

an

the

wildness

eddies,

moment,

one

for

mighty

projecting

lava,

unbroken

lofty mountain,

boiling

round

changed,

and

of

overwhelming

all describe
a

changed
sea

savage

before

fancy

of

its

tossing billows,

The

to

side

rapid coursings

arrested,

is to

lava
the

down

rushing

extent

of

Here

one

burying

The

at

can

in

breadth,

lay

hundreds

completely

and

now

the

mountain.

summit
in

dirty pothouse,

very

by

about

reality what

stupendous

Grecco.

one

way

expanse

the

that

scene

the

that

burning

del

in

Ave

is called

what

once

and

mile

and

Torre

the

of

surpass.
of

of

town

to

of

than

for

path

rendezvous

of

from

out

more

and

margin

vineyards,

us

suddenly

descended

1822

above

desolation

this

sight

descending

scene

the

upon

in

and

the

in

the

sunshine

glad

and

gloom

came

resting-place

of

came

we

nothing

now

the

following

distance

ascending

the

time

hour,

some

the

After

an

implies,

name

with

eighteen

still baffles

grasp

did

strangely

contrast

though

now,

its iron

away,

How

below

reign

to

passed

relax.

to

man

And

single night.

have

years

of

and

in

NATURE

AND

toppled

it is usual

refresh

selves,
them-

clamorously

1UN

A.RT

in

up
heat
of

peculiar

the

of

volcano

mountain

directed

to

of

the
time

one

this

and

and
stood
It

is

sides

filled

one

part

and

stones.

of

more

The

the

such

basin

broken

frightful

the
of

the

and

the

we

all

the

unearthly

crater, and

mass,

an

observed

vortices

had

and
the
white

in

All

darkness.
surface
and

of

tins

vapoury

in

dated
consoliThere

it
it

around
and

wreaths

the

projected

and

of

dark

huge

above

one

indeed

as

come,

the

filled

acres,

hue

had

eruption

boiling.

the

the
"

arrested
of

even

entered

others

at

though

blackness
fluid

several

sand

attributed

lava

piled

action

violent

of horror
across

of

sometimes

as

black

in

and

loose

had

the

and

area

deep

unrelieved

regions

very

cones

still in

while

covers

forming

spiral

in

hard

same

billows,

sometimes

upwards

though

It

edge.

tumultuous
other

the

The

all, and

Ave

which

at

one

twelve

other.

with

which

at

mountain.

height,

imagination

side

top, and

or

presents

space

my

the

the

in

Hercu-

the

the

brim

the

that

exertion,

thousand
to

of

Out

and

at

of

unequal
as

wide

the

and

through,

the

to

On

crater,

broken

last

the

grandeur

gloomy

of the

and

at

probably,

arrived

the

is evidently

cone.

crater

two

which

breathless

verge

high

ravine

Pompeii

apparently

as

of

rest

spectacle.

lowest

nearly

and

were,

mountain,

minutes'

recent

broken

are

up

ancient

outermost

one

basin

this

the

space,

from

yards
of

of

verge

we

most

anticipation, we

circular

hollow

hundred

to

the

upon

the

forty-five

about

less breathless

not

poured,

was

the

unbroken

an

caldron

devastated

After

laneum.

formed

gloomy

which

ruin

have

to

the

of

crater

law

attention

This

Somma.

Monte

usual

separates

which

on

the

by

the

our

up
which

ravine,

principal

and

seems

vast

fiery

called

occasioned

reversing

way

viz.,that

Vesuvius,

old

half

basin-like

commonly

lower,

thus

and

About

large

probably

below,

above,

1 ireezes.

peaks

great

from

way

NATURE

AND

is

here,

has,
the

as

from
sides

ing
undulatof

smoke

UNDER

curling

from

up

traced

is

what

rises

about

cone

half

that

of

perpetually

that

it is

order
of

to

by

within

fall

These

safe

violence

considerable

we

was

heated
it in

feet,

parts

many

In

us.

realizes

fearfully

the

underneath.

one

afoot
this

the
in

power

as

speedily
frail

fiery

crust

column

partially

continued

jet

sound

rumbling
it

the

were

about
that

to

holds

of

that

impatient

burst
it

extinguished

for

itself

confined.
for

an

of

seemed

you

volcano
life

my

about

From

lava.

to

of

freer

instant,

the

from

mighty

through

vent,
feels

panied
accom-

come

some

One

to

when

me

flame,

angry

voice

supports

aperture

block

living

and

over

an

if

cracked

of

creep

to

the

vividly

dread

the

I felt

overhanging

an

that

sensation

attention

my

all

slumbers

any

dread

the

to

ous
sulphur-

one

space

that

is

on

recollect

under

hollow

beneath,

tread

you

called

fact,

hot

shrink

and
hot

So

suffocation

speedy

this

spot,

cracked

lava.

of

stream

produce

awful

mysterious

the

forth

to

the

but

guides

issued

fissures, a

traversing

cannot

width,

by
far

where

I
with

of

crust

abyss,

compare

the

the

curl

In

the

over

to

so

of which

uncomfortable

shoes

our

stones.

several

of

five

its base.

on

field

quite

was

of

soles

While

inhaled.

hollow-sounding
over

it

sufficient

up,

guides,

our

of

cone,

were

we

forth

rolls

the

to

whilst

of

perhaps

hot

of

close

place

form

and

red

explosions,

crater,

intervals

at

these

intervening

that

crossing

rushed

closely

the

the

causing

air

and

of

surface

even

under

that

took

old

this

sides

did,

yellow

the

base,

and

the

on

in

of

ashes

we

as

crossed, carefully following

and

the

of

the

summit

range

view

nearer

of the

be

to

vivid

of

crater,

at

of

stand,

to

basin

interrupted

smoke,

limited

vast

the

explosions

quite
get

of

volume

streaks

active

From

everywhere

are

by

wide

yards

height.

minutes

ten

or

in

and

living

hundred

this

of

middle

the

now

surface

sombre

the

About

sulphur.

the

1(1'.)

SKY.

fissures, which

narrow

athwart

ITALIAN

AX

that
eye

were

might

!I0

ART

down

explore

fire beneath

of

world

shrink:

and

bade

the

at

It

sound

that

seemed

compared
apt

more

and

violent

red

hot

into
hundred

the

from

the

black

muddy
in

fact,

thrown

and
how

of

than

the

while

we

there,

thinner

or

exhalations
We

ness.

and

to

meet

owing

retracing

remarkable
more

were

were

the

crush

to

size

are

and

seen

jected
pro-

of

three

the

in

to

and

as

to

the

wholesome

our

the

substance
it is said

ascend

to

the

easy

top,

to

done

outer

verge,

with

pace
breeze

the

sensation
to

the
wafted

plosions.
ex-

passed

we

lava-crust, where
for

safety
the

of

see

The

explosions.

frequency

produce

quicken

hot

of

indicate.

be

elsewhere,
to

surface

Of

to

not

the

the

and

formed.

it is not

great

more

seem

these

it could

than

potent

by

the

still

though

would

but

from

but

are

red

to

some

around,

one,

enough

steps

hollow

glad
sweet

to

our

porous
so

of

injured
that

it,

ashes

masses

their

being

confessed, however,

immense

an

only

state, the

fiery crater,

guide

through

saw

foolhardy

escape

On

much

height

falls

the

smoking

apparently

are

were

often

succeeds,

not

steam,

which
which

and

slimy

into

can

the

to

rapidly

sound

of

ashes

accompanies

water

into

lighter

down

they

hot

sufficient

travellers
look

and

former

rise

think

noise

hissing

evidently
that

vapour

formed.

much

are

Some

in

is

out

they

is

substance

itself

cone

the

shower

explosion

rumbling

bursting

selves
our-

projecting force, notwithstanding

contrary,

of

with

I should

stones

the

of

some

The

the

to

appearance

this,

air,

feet,

theories

of

quantity

stationed

level,

our

artillery,but

shudder

one

hollow

forth,

the

wondrous

magnificent

burst

be

short

and

beneath

far
then

of

firing

reached

usual, by

as

would

vast

and

made

cone,

comparison

steam-boiler.
then

volcanic

the

thought

had

we

begin

to

cone,

the

to

very

preceded,

was

top of the

the

as

of the

base

place.

The

into

deep

passage,

!
Just

took

to

gloomy

its

NATURE

AND

it

was

sulphurous
of
outer

faint-

edge,

upwards

UNDER

the

from

of heaven

blackness

objects

what

had

been

we

peculiar gladness,

own

stretched

beneath

that

that

its

least, by
Nothing
of

reach,

villages,
and

whose

the

it

is

uplands,

the

woods

autumn,

and

seemed,

with

sun

indeed

must

we

light

and

states

of

immediate
white

see,

in

Baise,
haze

we

calm

and

of

as

Misenum,

distance

form, resting

if to

loveliness
of

like

this
forth

in

the

on

coast,
the

and

the
birds

her

of

snowy

of

the

the

bay

in

soft

in

the

every
the

her

seemed

the

of
on

that

the

In

city

of

of

varying

Beyond,

itself

plumage

the
that

syren

away

vessels

the

effect

magic

promontories

finally losing

of

of

remark

landscapes

bosom.

classic

thousands

to

blue

and

tints

light

climate

sweeping

of

through

"

the

gay

hills

the

the

the

its

and

most

yellow

occasion

lovely

encircle

the

radiance

lay regal Naples,

round

curves

in
call

the

conceive,

the

as

towns

of

disperse

had

we

far

evergreen

several

richer

can

which

atmosphere

outline

graceful

have

Felice."

countless
in

at

picturesque

luxuriant

to

were,

other

physically

and

showing

and

ere

extended

sleep

it

often

foreground

arms

On

still

as

colouring,
the

them.

were

How

atmosphere.

deep

mellower

yet

the

and

the

on

Gampagna

contrasts

pect
pros-

blue

Stretching

with

whiteness

around

groves

orange

surface.

with

manner

"

richness

interspersed

dazzling

happy

varied

wide-spreading

The

characterized,
"

its

lay

glorious

hand,

appellation

the

and

one

well

so

Italian

exceed

its

the

all

sunshine,

afford.

can

on

plain,

truly

can

can

eye

world

Mediterranean

magnificent

objects

the

of
the

to

In

golden

beautiful

most

here

was

very

region

contemplating
and

the

from

contrast

brilliancy,
the

us

perhaps

sparkling

to

And

sand
thou-

seemed

return

our

with

laden

delight,

of

welcoming

horror.

and
and

sights

itself

which,

and

sensations

and

1 1 I

SKY.

ITALIAN

lovely plain beneath,

perfumes
breath

AN

turesque
picand

Puteoli,
ethereal
size

water.

and
all
"

1 12

ART

combine
which

the

Every

has
The

the

off,by

set

yielded

the

as

direction
and

to

one's

headlong

else

of

degree

use

pleasure

and

the

remainder
breaks

of
the

bear

its

the

proceeding,

Basselas-like

to

frantic, headlong

gesticulation

of

straining

to

clenched

shouting,

leaping,

al

the

and

behind

bonnets
the

of

shoulders,

and

half

and

in

engaged

most

the

this

lunatic-like

all

of ladies'

strings
coat-

laughing,

"

helplessly
most

of

foolish,

"

cracking

sex,

the

of

picture

tween
be-

breath

giant strides, streaming

sterner

to

poetical part

with

precipitated

anon

forms

the

the

completely

breezy fluttering

"

ward,
for-

something

onlooker,
but

feet

seems

one

is the

an

some

does

sand

strength

involuntary,

legs

teeth

is

thing
any-

of

the

air

we

casting

than

body

actually

to

of

and

the

pendicular
per-

all done

act

throw

sank

which

have

the

yielding

are

"

tails, and

others'

and

hair,

left

be

"

arms

of

This

But

in
ust

no

nearly

as

wisdom

to

Avhile

one.

who

the

pace

dishevelled

dresses,

and

pleasant

adventure.

of

sensation
;

is

exhilarating

The

to

was

feet

precipice

but

soft

fresh

those

who
like

act

has

The

flying

It
manner

more

impetus

The

endure, decidedly

the

guides,

One

work.

and

which

step.

it is the

truth,

wings.

skating

in

stupendous

downward

the

there

The

was

too.

shock.
on

you

from

in

yet,

wont,

iu

experienced

where

the

the

deep

sublime

place

ascent.

of

of

Vesuvius.

sand,

under
of

place

according
self

loose

only

the
have

must

from
a

continue

from

step

one

to

us

but

impossible,

elevate.

descent

is

long

and

every

conducted

which

and

deep,

usual

but

will

is but

this

and

cinders,

or

detail

soothe

to

there

the

made

which

impress

power

guides

lava

in

scene

knows

one

ridiculous

who

delightful

with

memory,

the

form

to

NATURE

AND

on

each

unmingled

(surdity.
We

arrived
"

scarcely

credible

as

it

seemed

on

looking

UNDER

eight minutes,

in

upwards

"

the

remounted

bottom,
awaiting

Here

took

we

and

made

well

for.

In

delicious
clothe

ride
the

and

having

fertile

We
that

days

had

in

of
man,

the

of

terror

spent
lives

our

Him
and

still
other

and

in
We

evening,

thus

reached

with

does

of

where

his

returned

and

the

that

to

and

richly

Resina,

Salvatore

Station,

had

we

closely

our

had

which

contrast

strange

of

exertions

vineyards

soon

Railway

evening,

his

the

of the
has

limbs

weary

interesting and
with

whose
one

our

most

hand

beauty,

spreads
from

lessons

"

laid

we

teeming

one

whose
of

as

of the

one

solemnity,
grace

the

forlorn

and

contents

our

as

mountain

rise

the

out

tage.
Hermi-

men,
about

Naples.

to

felt that
we

of

the

small

room

the

at

dutifully

were

regained

meal

cool

bargain

our

the

to

groves

the

beauty

discharged

nightfall

the

grandeur.

savage

proceeded

Ave

of

part

time

of

such

the

through

lower
of

extreme

dark

us

that

hermit, spread

any

provision basket,
prepared

short

perfect safety,

in
animals

possession

certainly for

enough

in

] I .',

SKY.

and

patient

and

descent,

our

ITALIAN'

AN

lessons

awful
formed

of

power,
alike

long-suffering
for

destruction.

his

enjoyment,

to

repose,

memorable

deep

pressive
im-

and

yet wondrous
these
mercy
and

objects
to

sinful

restrains

BAIjE.

classic

been

traffic

is

different

of

in

the

this

excursion,

intending

to

The

islands

to

country
chose

we

of

Capri,

which

which

by

the

north

new

road

road

the

ordinary
of

unknown

hills

and

from

old

Grotto

some

of

drive

view

the

The

at

the

the

by

return

the

road

Government,

up

through

range

from

Naples

that

the

horses

This

by

coast.

constructed

underneath

antiquity

and

little

Posilippo.

opening

the

passes

tunnel

gigantic

of

of

on

Pozzuoli,

conducted,

winding

constructed

sake

points

and

still

the

comfortable

spirited

the

shores

recently

for

the

tween
be-

lippo,
Posi-

period

which

separates
As

west.

in

the

neighbourhood.

with

us

along

the

by

its

visit

to

and

Vesuvius,

to

Baia3

and

rapidly

us

Naples

of

carriage,

took

principally

the

furnished

roomy

the

with

haunts

Ungaro

passes

expedition

our

arranged

we

has

after

clays

few

is

going

to

usual

Baia?,

Grotto.

Nisida,

Procida,

Ischia

one

after

"

another

came

into

like

view

clouds

floating

of

the

most

"

beautiful

lilac,

resting

on

an

element

whose

colour

and

trans-

i L6

ART

imagine
the

it.

around

the

day

the

Our

Sybil.

in

luridly
better

preparation

Sybil,

than

this

haunts.

There

groped

onwards,

flaring

of

the

render

it

more

features

of

and

up

cheerfid

sunny

on

Styx,

the

guides,

as

travellers

to

is

evidently

and

then

misty

they

though

we

wreaths

Charon's
but

came

of

is

smoke,

the

crust

other

many

water,

contrast

is the

Lake
to

again.

the

The
over

some

whilst

pointed
of

of

volcanic

rocky
the

this

fire.

felt

of

with
went

we

or

out

fabled

by

the

conducting

neighbourhood
Every

whence

fissure,
air

is

flowers.

gay

Lucrinus,

daily practice
whole

fringe

Morto,

shrul

Avernus,

Mare

and

along

way

with

to

the

on

air

pure

led

confidently

as

in

ferry.

upon

of

the

only

hue

pallid

we

which

sufficient

lavender,
and

side

one

were

thin

and

sheet

of which

situation

on

as

steep declivities,between

pleasing

At

Acheron.

Lake

to

aspect,

darkness,

sweet

the

mysterious

horrible

of

too, is suffocating

and

little

glared

peculiarly

the

larkspur,

picturesque

Cuniean

oracles
her

to

cast

smell

anterrhhmm,

Passing

to

arbutus,

myrtle, tamarind,

cyclamen,

and

down

came

conceive

not

impression

breathe

to

donkeys,

our

of

The

all

we

me

an

around.

footpath,

narrow

made

oppressive,

were

Mounting

of

torches

to

the

which

the

to

passage

blackness

the

fly

not

they

of

could

assent

something
in

those

right glad

One

subterranean

was

once

groundless

moment

torches

lighted

credulous

for

belief

could

Grotto

the

to

darkness.

heavy

the

come

it

birds

that

to

exhalations.

came

carried

the

proved

eyes

(.lead the

down

we

guides
the

our

of its noisome

its shores

by

has

birds/' as

events,)

all

at

influence

Passing

of

they dropped

it, that

within

"without

said

are

characteristic

last

evidence

the

present

across

this

that

vapours

of

stillness

death-like

the

by

pestilential

From

existed, (though
in

the

signifying

Avernus,

name

suggested

been

itself,and

lake

hang

have

to

NATURE

AND

now

issued

oppressive

and

QNDEB

After

heavy.
path,

we

rocks,

and

add
with

revealing

the

to

gathered

round

both

style

absurd,

novel
coidd

we

object,

Again

we

we

were

not

long

prevail

induced

to

enter

S^"

and

on

yielded

to

it is to
of

at

"

?"

the

Lucullus.
for

the

Vy
He

"

de

however,

was,

the

is
of

an

indignant

the

near

humiliating

of

surprise

indulgence

he

his

fleet

when

expressed

our

of

cells,

see

no

you

every-

admiration
the

reservoir, constructed
for

Our

man

innermost

the

ruins

cruelty

beings

How

with

Cento

human

heart

satisfied

better

"

having

the

vy

ground
under-

our

which

into

den

money,

enormous

water

the

penetrate

Mirabile,"

Piscina

supply

to

pay

you

It

by

us

refusal

positive

our

ting

amused

lead

will

to

other

and

Nero's

of

nothing

these

regret

months

cruelty

atrocious

passions

uncontrolled

adding,

of

the

guide

for

party.

our

of the

of

think

To

truly
gained

that

into

to

subterranean

horrors

us

persuasion.

places, perhaps

witness

worthy

cause

in
and

had

stifling

victims

doses,

joined

descent

the

few

least

declared

additional

which
well

might

such

occupying

the

bestow

laughing

at

the
a

and

shrewd

horrible

talking,

so

and

had

attending

in

curiosity or

trifle

scenes

and

large

and

they

encounter

verily

cells

or

confined,

were

to

us

regions, and
Camerette,"

for
"

each

sensations

disagreeable

them,

resist

to

withal

yet

them

at

them

both

place, though
should

annoying,

gave

in

administered

scpiare

sketch,

to

us

laden

flat

and

induce

to

To

bay.

Italian

stopped

laughing

us,

and

than

ourselves

at

and

Avas

of

paintings

high

asses

the

wearing

persuasion

Flattery, too,

grant.

their

of

means

eveiy

driving

peasants,

which

the

of

peeps

the

of

termination

Baia3, lying between

women

"

familiar.

so

women

more

the

us,

the

at

loveliest
of

party

1 |

SKY.

to

the

with

one

using

of

handkerchiefs,

white

the

met

road

one

picture,

sticks,

make

the

upon

ITALIAN

scramble

regular

came

AN

anchored

Villa

by
in

of

Nero
the

118

ART

is

It

bay.
and

it

fancy

one

the
the

the

Piscina

Mirabile,
the

of

locality

broiling

the

so-called

Elysian

wilderness, yet elysian certainly,

view
feast

of

it in

had

carriage

been

and

besieged,
grey-haired
the
had

in

face

the

to

rush

general

with

the

ready

to

which

shout

he

daunted,
lost

treasure,

of
still

means

the

contrived

Adding

of

with

By

prevailing.

few

in

him

tear

this

basket
to

ready

secure

His

us

had
scatter

goodly

drove

we

of

were

from

the

It

and

they

as

prize
in

our

their

off
most

the

set

piece
at

but,

full

sure

of

remaining

them,

amongst
for

my

speed,

unpleasant

him,

upon
;

thing
no-

his

to

again
tents
con-

though

little
as

for

tingled

ears

second, pointing

whole

in

signal

seized

was

handsome

the

was

up

succeeded

whose

and

me,

forth

we

the

biscuit

gave

had

who

rogue,

side

to

we

description,

possessor,

my

time

grani,

ridding

moment

piteous look, yet seemingly

awaited

side, where

one

irresistible.

pieces.
by

groves

carriage.

burst

was

orange

the

the

fortunate

the

on

the

from

change

in

lisping urchin, clambering

near

proved

while

the

wheel

the

smile

saucy

of

In

exquisite

sheltered

outer

baffles

as

black-eyed

of

top

to

the

to

tangled

eyes,

the

to

us

prepared

! what

us.

troop

sides

and

hand

and

of

ing
Leav-

most

our

which,

Alas

meet

screeching hag

my

gaining

such

in

cottage

to

sent

by

wheels

very

the

now

being

breath

side.

through

feasted

most

was

brought

the

as

the

sun.

walk

far

was

sweet

one

on

mid-day

"

we

cottage,

the

inhale

passing

on

this

shade

Fields,

as

kind

neighbouring

closed

which

On

so.

substantial

could

we

sun,

it

more

of

arcade

us

make

could

the

graceful

clothes

and

deep

minutes'

few

cool

of

heat

The

green,

make

well

might

ground.

loveliest

festoons, while

after

refreshing

under

arches,

and

pillars, piers,

imagination

of

carpet

with

arches

of

of

cathedral

rude

forms

celandine
rude

effort

slight

very

labyrinth

perfect

NATURE

AND

the

rogue.

only

propinquity

UNDER

Baiae

At

the

underneath
the

are

the

that

the

the

into

Arrived
of

each

are

had

justice

brief

forth

followed

that
moment

the

darker

hues

rose

half
in

ourselves

the

watched

we

thousand

shade

the

the

each

still

floor

allow
able

we

were

the

time

we

admitted

the

to

of

pavement,

our

took

guide, gladly
up

passed
sur-

that

the

and

we

pendous
stu-

have

columns

Scarcely

described,

this

building

any

seeing, for, by

dismissing

carriage, giving

silence

twilight

I have

let

and

our

of

enjoyment

drive.

delicious
In

the

worth

of

it must

cover

marble.

was

and

which

power

magnificent

remains

cipollina,

mud

the

almost

without

cooked.

were

to

vastly

heats

pail

dors
corri-

so

boiling

they

three

the
of

rarest

what

fatigue,

in

the

how

of

and

all that

to

through

excessive
seats

of

is

into

design

piece

water

sea-

seen,

got

solid

one

the

wherever
be

and

shafts

The

put

went

long

steps

were

we

Baths,

which

the

what

shew

of

off

Even

to

size, beauty,

days.

modern

do

suffices

eud

shew

Pozzuoli,

Serapis.

Nero's

two

minutes

two

and

especially, is

are

from

advance

eggs

in

and

the

steam

To

four

or

at

Jupiter

in

to

the

scarce

can

more

edifice

it to

one

water,

once

Temple

stand

At

of

Temples

prodigious,

Mercury

Villa.

springs,

three

springs,

down

his

of

Pozzuoli

quite breathless.

becoming
of

of

nuns

that

is

size

and

Baia3

boiling

passages

in

designs,

Between

great.

very

the

of

beauty

the

of

remains

Their

Diana.

and

Ill)

SKY.

ITALIAN

interesting

the

Mercury,

Venus,
the

visited

we

AN

her

late

when

this

only enhanced

we

over

beauty,

and

the
as

wonders

it is both

the

golden

another

and

then

the
of

Grotto
the

by day

vast

and

sky,

of
shone

moon

reign.

of

and

moment

the
her

resumed

For

day.

the

on

water

light,
night

of

short

the

and

sunset,

deepened

the

on

through

passed

dimly lighted

sinking
purple

slept

victorious

glorious

It

Posilippo,

and

night,

gloomy
with

was

but
sage,
pas-

lamps,

L20

at

ART

greatly

recesses

in
believe

creation

of

Tomb

another

the

buried

the

its

roof

lofty

was

devoutly
the

of

race

its

into

Beckford,

Mr.

Cim-

of

what

the

soothes

rather

coining

down
into

perspective
end,

passing
inverted

and

it

of

the

in
the

repassing,

mere

speck

of

ear,

objects

of

seen

human

town

which

mind.

In
the

near

and

light

grey

is

busy

the

long

figures
like

whence

aperture

The

Grotto.

rate
elabo-

nothing

or

the
the

of

side

diminutive
seemed

from

over

an

from

on

you

hanging

little

terrace,
hum

path

rather

art

musing

through

of

perly
pro-

length

at

once

murmur

the

gloomy

terminates

little
The

disturbs

dark

telescope.

is

softened

peeped,

we

style

what

Naples.
a

than

which

across

Above

with

falls

below

steps,

in

more

narrow

trees

been

have

to

or

when

and
chesnut

and

bay

resting-place

little

he

whether

and,

fitting

visited

we

garden,

tomb

precipice,

though

views

best

hanging

the

appears

tell.

to

of

find

you

monument,
remains

seems

eminence

rocky

Grotto,

not,
of

the

this

of

spot,

kind

up

the

upon

sequestered

surrounds

top,

ruins

or

zig-zag

you

reach

there

vineyard,

is

entrance

sweet

poet.

great

leads

the
is

It

day.
really

was

far

of

looked
its

mysterious

which

Virgil,

above

immediately

one

the

of

where

with

inclined,

felt

subterranean

enjoyment

as

upwards

and

the

and

this

The

the

the

it

mereans

for

hand,

darkness,

in

imagination

SKY.

of

origin

impressions

either

on

lost

to

awful

ITALIAN

AN

unknown

the

helps

and

strange

UNDEB

The

intervals.

long

mail

NATURE

AND

solemn
at

the

far

beings,

through

an

HERCULANEUM.

.""S^"

the

British

Court,

of

well

pretty

proposed

around,

Though
this

anticipated,

as

fast

But

of

flight
the

looked

even

remainder

Pompeii,

an

air

and

feeling

of

immense

walls

yet

gloomy

our

in

extent

at

first

us

all

culaneum.
Her-

to

way

than

sight

that

so

when

reached

much

desolation

almost

of

pressive
im-

had

the

of

lava

with

fear,

still

holding

dimensions,
is,

struck

had

cavated
ex-

unknown

There

so

on

actually

awe,

of

accompany

we

steps,

was

not

principal

brightening

confess

must

Pompeii.
I

of

city

at

what

Herculaneum,

at

of

than

greater

the

at

is

city

Pompeii.

one

the

larger

selves
our-

Herculaneum,
to

Portici,

considerably

buildings,
which

through

its

usual

as

irksome

made

so

see

day

disentombed

the

descended

beautiful

passed

we

and

to

about

the

with

wished

to

Neapolitan

without

custode,

Temple,

wander

to

acquainted

next

we

the

Mr.

the

at

Pompeii

of

attendance

thither.

of

permission

streets

details,

kindness

representative

obtained

the

and

the

through

aving,

it

with

and

seemed

to

the

ruin

absence

about

was

me,

in

of

the

122

A.RT

houses

seem

beings

though
of

scenes

of

the

century
the

commenced
of

which

the

the

and

ground,

yet

with

filled

of

sounds

the
music

unrivalled
and
of

very

Balbi

else

of

the

of

works

devastation
had

given

and

past,

with

surface
which

bronzes

from
from

by

yet
the

mountain

was

the

bled
assem-

deemed

now

here

found

niches

more

the

heard

were

those

to

once

equestrian

the

sular
con-

of

were

are

steps

strange

were

which

noble

returned

wrought
me.

art

the

the

was

once

we

galleries

reached

It

more

of

flight

thousands

The
taken

By

place

where

of

statues

theatre.

the

where

mirth,

were

the

of

rays,

Museum.

Certainly

theatre.

terrific

bright

awe,

we

below

midst

city

uppermost

stage.

feet

very

glorious

family

memorials
the

the

and

to

the

and

the

the

the

that

spot

mysterious

down
of

this

of

buried

descending,

Still

Magnificent

removed
the

in

still

some

eighty-seven

sun's

those

amid

into

orchestra,

self

one's

this

proceeded

last

building.

seats,
know

at

us

of

or

remarkable

in

discovery

living,

circles,

most

was

sensation

we

it

it

Pompeii,

at

domestic

The

the

to

into

descent

brought

around

led

torches

many

theatre

With

ago.

of

by

felt

often

pleasure.

the

which

I
midst

the

and
is

sunk

was

into

finds

one

inhabited

been

whereas

business

Herculaneum

light

ourselves

that

barriers,

and

disclosed,

partially

having

ever

SKY.

ITALIAN

so

are

gloomy

intruding

was

actual

well

than

their

their

like

They

by

realize

to

acting

part

in

AN

UNDER

streets.

shut

so

difficult

as

the

and

NATUBE

AND

statues

this

around
dark

nean
subterra-

fearful

idea
than

of

thing
any-

124

ART

shore

the foot of richly-wooded

at

amid

for

retreats

of

the

shadeless

the

upon

be

the

boats,

desired

in

gentlemen

sketch,

which

The

little
cliffs

lofty

The

by

the

above

"

times,
north
and

di
for

to

the

coast.

is

The

rocks,

and

occasions

foam,

which,

unbroken

orange

at

and

once

in

it

in

line

of

one

struck

feature

the

extent

called

and

the

modern
the

on

the

upon

sea

the

the

of

peculiar

groves

in

streak

singular

one

side,

calmest

numberless

from

the

this

and

bold
tations,
inden-

sparkling

rocks

in

from

appearance

of

the

and

the

weather

upon

white

yet,

sea-level,

precipice all along

their

out

opposite

above

into

way

it, is

arches,

bounded

shores, breaking

most

us,

far

rocky

of

to

sheltering mountains,

west,

swell, which

little

is

shortly

opening

of

ancient

of

is

road

large plain

It

and

impetuously

has

lemon

both

situated,

these

floating

was

that

south

continually

line,
There

which

so

from

rushing

of

of

verge

bottom

the

on

scene.

the

tier

level

fruitfulness.

heaving

long

absent

never

famed,

sunny

abruptly

terminating

the

verge

the

double

sunlit

ravine

on

take

to

it,the

at

amphitheatre

an

plains

most

with

the

teeming

by

opens,

unlike

on

east

rushes

reaching

Sorrento,"
its

and

which

of

everything

which

on

vast

light

prevailed

that

of

Passing
of

the

of

we

situated

boldly

side

lofty bridge
Oh

feature

sea.

the

down

ourselves

Piano

is

the

that
in

view

combination

short

minutes

each

Vico

torrent

few

the

was

glowing

picturesque

sketch,

months,

lowly

in

cious
deli-

be

must

summer

and

peasants,

recall

of

other.

found

we

us

overhanging

Bay.

spanned

allow

town

the

of

groups

might

winds

the

the

So

soft

so

town

in

embowered

villas

"se

the

Naples.

characteristic

to

afterwards

of

tempting

so

Th"

coolness,

promontory,

water,

lateen-sailed

and

streets

hills.
above

terraces

repose

projecting

to

the

on

groves

from

NATURE

AND

an

tance.
dis-

favoured

plain

richness

of

the

"

their

abundant

produce

in

every

of

stage

progress,

the

meets

every

spaces,

they

the

In

soil, were

be

to

and

sturdy

independence,

and

friends

amid

all

Nature

finest

for

beauties
lies
as

than

with

the

direction
to

the

discomfiture
Nor

enjoyment.
its

appreciate
on

the

In
to

us,

large

we

the
"

hand,
des

Hotel

forgot

orange

glimpse

of

them

idea
here

the

of
and

these

Sirenes,"

which

quite overhanging

it.

Our

the

cheerful

sea

at

and

and

in

from

less

feet

high.

walls,

but

green

passages
in

every

lanes,,
and

neighbourhood

recommended

stands

the

tains
moun-

other.

Ungaro

roses

the

it to

the

on

close

so

never

this

considerable

pretty

way

view, temper,

It

with

such

The

abominable

traveller's

sea-shore

of

side,

there

of

through

long dreary

by escaping
the

hand

fourteen

or

I have

midst

either

on

home

ment
disappoint-

provoking

with

surrounded

groves,

were

the

sojourner

save

or

in

disappointment.

our

and

rooms

of
the

can

delights,

one

only

is intersected

Piano

total

the

the

of

strong

of

passing

drives

these

are

in

grievous
and

this

oak

that

by

carriages passing,

is this

Neither

the

twelve

of

the

now

profusion

walls

often

and

of
limbs

And

Sorrento,

with

suggesting

weeds,

cellar.

rich

two

dismal

and

dark,
slimy

eight,

or

in

scarce

of

the

not

thoughts

suggesting

One

lanes,

sunk

granate,
pome-

offspring

gnarled

strangers.

Piano.

open

more

there

and

specimens

mention

with

admit

to

seven

Damp,

to

miles,

along deep
scarcely

the

of

part

and

must

wall

every

and

luxuriant

their

approaching

on

glossy foliage

parts

here

noble

cast

around,

and

golden

"

the

of

land

loveliness

feels

one

the

thrusting

the

on

while

forth

England,

dwelt

the

to

vine, olive, walnut,

the

seen

Old

higher

amid

objects

pleasing

dark

their

with

acacia

and

blossom

fragrant

the

well

contrast

| J.",

SKY.

enclosure, overhanging

every

crevice.

ITALIAN

will,

you

chesnut,

fruitful

from

in

eye

filling

least

AN

where

Turn

fruit.

UNDER

in

and

of

one

gay

flowers,

height
whole

the

above

expanse

of

L26

AKT

and

sea

land,

dashed

the

upon

stood.

As

ordered

dinner

and

as

and

mountains.

saddle

lady's
to

of

friends

good

our

speed

of
but

motion,

way

this

search

of

breezy

hundred

The

became

day

little

rine,

while

I got

that

seemed

by
it

as

no

greeted

her

Away

donkey.
smooth

or

In

contrast.

rain

few

On

turning
re-

Zucche-

went

on

road

learned

one

Mr.

minutes

not

was

mount

until

easy,

wild

Agata.

we

the

cent.
magnifi-

as

to

in

go
to

of

top
was

St.

turn

little

us

but

to

route

took

her

the

to

us

good

to

the

on,

dismounted

overcast,

our

unpleasant.

not

lay

peculiar

most

Stopping

which

which

was

recklessly

we

brought

again

means

by

so

view

of

rode,

behind.

bridlepath,

prospect

upon

I
dashed

we

close

yards

steeds,

animal

rushing

pace

some

us

The

gallop

and

seen

steps.

than

Zucche-

astonished

have

they

stone

rather

continued

we

the

of

have

would

the

in

spirited

called

him,

on

and

donkeys

handsome

guides

put

could

home,

point

the

think

It

they kept

as

hill,and

anticipated,

to

turns.

flight

certain

few

to

been

extraordinary

right.

having

merrily

right

the

we

hotel,

Agata,

St.

to

sea

which

mounted

we

remarkably
which

deep

on

the

in

matters

excursion

an

one

active

balcony

return,

our

were

leaps

the

on

shouting

up

at

short

laughed

guides

by

long

up

succession

ride

on

upon

ponies

determined

"We

off

set

The

arranged

ready

things, especially

rine.

full

had

the

and

us,

the

below

directly

we

be

to

before

side, lay

rocks

soon

ponies,

little

either

on

NATURE

AND

E
,

who

which,

even

after
Such

upwards
the
up,
his

we

out

to

turn

of

of

R
the

the

to

such

scrambling

mountain

adopted

stirrups.

And

wise

Scarcely

had

cessible.
inac-

and

commenced,

at

place

up

perfectly

path

our

now

torrent,
the

right,

seemed

experience,

certainly progressed

Mr.

where

past

our

sliding,

bed

narrow

feet

directed

first,was

was

this

he

done

lay

in

dried

season

precaution

yet

of

taking

so

before

ONDEB

the

that

evident

it became

light

of

for

tins

they lay

down

both

Mr.

it

As

have

must

the
mount

to

the

of

damage
again,

ground

safe

not

strength

have

not

and

their

rather

riders

superbcs

anes

toilsome

part

view,

After

of

the

and

"

after

the

way

wind

became

he

piercingly

places,

they

as

themselves

drag

it

of the
"

had,

cloud

cold

that

indeed,

for

repaid

black

heavy

with

ascent

master

little

were

powers

experience,

our

steeds

all,we

own

the

to

us

animal

our

steep

of the

epithet
what

about

inquired

we

the

recall

to

these

sufficient

Certainly,

nately
fortu-

stupid

afterwards,

into

suppleness

or

to

trust

learned

donkeys

up.

amusing

when

had

take

to

reclining

persuaded

guides
my

feet,
rocks.

jagged

ankle, though

continuing

We

ponies.

to

being

his

donkey's

brought

and

sure-footed

it is

agreed

of

up

sharp

The

slight.

apart,

danger

drawn

my

sprained

first step

was

climbing,

the

it

so

escape,

but
the

but

the

against

them,

to

Joking

in

previously

not

me

was

riders.

in

tute,
substi-

agreeable

time

one

altogether

not

occasioning

propensity

to

he

crushed

been

I did

was,

had

be

their

at

were

themselves

its fair-weather

as

might

to

so

and

This

means

and

hurt

seriously
they

no

considered

least

at

or

L27

SKY.

ITALIAN

donkeys

our

torrent,

certainly by

but

AN

Ah

hotel
!

the

des
last

this

the

obscured

at

was

height

we

reached.
hastened

We

accomplished,

been
shelter

our

the
rain

steep

the

us

gave
for

in

house
best

in

process
ceased
and

of

the

and

long,

slippery,
enjoying

for

so

of

had,

in

and
that

variety

most

rain

forth
of

good

the
tumble

the

took

oranges

watching

engaged.

was

paths

party

were

walked,

down.

had

woman

with
with

ourselves
she

civil

A
us

way
We

on.

came

presenting

the

of

Agata.

which
set

we

much

St.

amused

we

silk-spinning

ere

heavy

village
she

room

refreshment,

of

storm

before

but

descend,

to

As

The
very
sionally
occa-

soon

L28

A.RT

it
as

he

though

knew

miii]

told

after

the

ere

weather

The

started

early
within

the

"re

Naples

got

on

into

early

our

hour,

an

on

f"

was

possibility
the

in

first

the

the

took

shew

to

me

cautiously

as

wished

and

the

then

the
on

willing
of

stairs

closed

blazed

fatigues

who

as

his

biped

proceed.

sketches,

were

we

should

SKY.

Zuccherine,

the

and

evening

cheerily

which

was

it,

several

completed
fire,

all

pleasant

most

ITALIAN

on

down

about

AN

little

got

stepping

they

how

(anions

I
so,

famously,

down

UNDER

do

to

sate

was

NATURE

AM"

to

we

day.

drew

round
a

hearth,

allow

and

and

that

wood-

tale

many

needful

was

repose

day.

dull

to

return

seeing

railway
afternoon.

us

anything
train

at

the

Naples.

accompanying
of

in

cloudy

and

all

morning,
heavy

the

more.

Castellamare,

so

rain

we

came

and

way,

venting
preWe

there-

reaching

D'AGNANO

LAGO

AND

assembled

THE

Year's

New

on

SOLFATARA.

Day

and

bright

as

"

and

glorious

one

as

shone

ever

little

a
"

the

to

excellent

in

party,

accompanying

son

lent

kindly

the

her

us

and

us,

expedition

an

and

d'Agnano

Lago
C

Mrs.

for

spirits,

Mr.

Solfatara.

her

carriage,

clerical

a
,

friend

of

and

The

hills,

thickly

these

Lucullus,

who

the

explore
!)

taste

of

whose

pages

Pisa,

ruins

lake

to

was

adorned

another,

the

In

with

del

thick

of

picture
the

the

by

fish.

of

belonged

to

canal

still

We

the

of

leaning

did

not

antiquarian

Cane,

red

of

one

for

mysterious

swelling

side

recollections

same

representing

low

sea

(alas

Grotto

the

among

acquisitions.

were

the

d'Agnano.

which

for

being

Lago

the

the

reservoir

villa,

see

ranks

with

turned

we

with

villa,

lake

the

of

circled

Baias

to

long

the

at

On

of

road

ere

brushwood.

this

the

but

is

water

remains

curious

more

wonders

literary

of

connected

making

beautiful

ourselves

with

the

are

traceable,

sheet

all

us

found

covered

hills

to

soon

little

The

's.

familiar

was

off,

account

earliest

my

book,

whose

Tower

Grotto

of

del

130

ART

the

At

".

like

drowned

on

shut

hole

the

them

by forcing

the

by

however,

We,

being

little

saw

than
The

cave.

we

were

would

taken

and

The

liquid.

heavy

gas,

smoke

the

inches
rested

another

assented;
hand

my

sensation
of

effect

guide

then

was

consequence

by smelling

sal

drinking

which

the

did,

exquisitely
from

ammoniac,

Grotto

of

pecting
sus-

throat,

effervescing

still
too

if

me

directed,

and

lower

quickly,
sensation

painful
which

upon

immediately

mouth

but

the

course

as

face,

descend

me

of

glass

as

asked

down

my

of

this

man

my

in

made

motion,

same

towards

it in

and
and
duced
pro-

reality

here

proceeds.
Having
the

carriage,

again
servdc.es

the
of

and

high
a

civil

passing
road

to

looking

of

worthy

everything

seen

through
Baiaa.
man.

wild

we

pretty

Pozzuoli,

At
and

notice,

sensible

stratum

floor

From

stooping

and

with

feelings

gas,

Though

champagne.

in

the

The

by.

was

extinguished

lies

effect.

dogs

fed

are

invisible

the

upon

close

of

glass

injured

instant

the

to

which

their

upon

even

the

own

they

which

not

insensible

over

an

deep

extraordinary

an

the

like

exactly

into

stimulating

sharp

in

waving

gently

re} "eat

joke,

torches

to

have

to

lighted

eighteen

animals

tenderness,

all is

dogs

distaste

I must

our

satisfaction

miserable

hut

door;

poor

vivid

flourishing

my

gas.

when

the

the

the

by

is

looking

it made

very

overcome

noxious

of

way

water, producing

the

coidd

that

fact,

plunged

more

felt

book

inhale

to

dainty, by

some

not

red

Two

depicted

dog,

reality

it. to

positively disappointed

explained

on

The

shews

also

however,

exhibition, viz.,rendering

proposed

seemed

the

in

picture

who

man

is

wretched

was.

door.

wooden

the

accompanied

it

as

imagination.

my
with

in

of

form

Such

there

recollect

stiffened

cat.

impression

entrance,
the

holding

man

NATURE

AND

we

returned

lane,

reached

engaged

looking

to

the

donkey,

132

ART

moment

one

time

than

Some
in

crystals
This

and

supposed

to

he

report

when

these

This

volcano

such

seem

either, if

the

light

than

while
that

fatal

once

of

devoid

the

being

taste

of

devoid

them.

of

which
with

and

is

by

even

the

of

the

upon

the
of

even

their

works
to

of

the

the

being

human
For

art

With

observed
of

semblance

finding

instance,

on

an

in

have
more

these

parts

assertion,
within

buried

lying

of

some

era

for the

the

"

the

devotion.

most

solemn

of
for
the

Naples

and

though

not

former

are

churches

gaudy

there,

outward

even

stranger

distinguishing features;
as

to

not

date

Solfatara

beauties

natural

attractive.

Church,

does

Solfatara.

the

upon

any

viz.,that

the

is still

name,

hefore

there

us,

ground

that

hut

comparative

discoveries

good

ordinary

Whether

as

ascribed

are

generally greatly disappointed,

was

any

neighbourhood

latter, assuredly

striking

more

told

there

that

more

than

environs

guides

the

mon
Com-

dangerous.

active

say,
the

relics

range

dwelt

1 have
its

the

to

is

Vesuvius.

fixing

what

city, unknown

for

connected

any
believe

some

the

in

in

distant,

considered

heen

observed

of

its

quiescent

have

Pulse

its action.
shewrs

he

it is difficult

ground

miles'

in

latter

considered

to

heen

not

or

excavations

remote

had

retained

"

the

fifteen

may

thought

except

to

more

it

ere

home,

called

Solfatara

mountain

had

case

the

he

may

is
or

the

when

is also

we

brought

that

says,

sufficient

any

took

we

crater

with

connected

cease,

the

little

radiance,

which

twelve

though

appearance
he

had

we

slight degree.

life,Vesuvius

of

signs

ever,"

sparkling

nearly extinguished
;"

late

their

few, however,
a

Vesuvius

this

for

gone

admire

to

vanished.
the

then

seen,

NATURE

AND

in

and

finery

Avhile
seem

the
to

attraction

bad

nies
ceremo-

to

me

I cannot

occasion

Naples

be

conceive
in
of

any

of

Neapo-

UNDER

litau
far

as

this

famous

the

with

his

who
the

been

the

without

themselves,
of

Many

jabbering,

yet

were

the

short,

far

as

enable

and

of

the

lower

little

be

indeed

deluded
this

their

the

little

I should

mark

patron
among

either

the
In

judging
the

may

tans
Neapoli-

reason

their

of

reverence.

of

some

for

ranks

that

say

from

have,

even

grimacing,

from

with

regarded

classes

respect

and

to

opinion,

an

the

of

slight opportunities

very

whether

obtain

to

man
gentle-

seriousness.

seem

be

to

our

form

to

us

very

as

here

from

protection,

like

would

while

laughing,

anything

priests

people,

common

continued

joining

doubt

us

ness
wit-

not

appearance

enough

anxiety

absurd

most

could

around,

self-deceived

are

or

in

make

to

he

Gennaro,

St.

the

that

heard

we

present,

approbation,

saint,

but

of

but

knelt

professing great

people, though
of

who

crowd

themselves

priests

blood

without

curiosity;

had

the

Finding

ceremony

admiring

gratify

of

ascertain, nothing

exhibited.

was

L33

SKY.

ITALIAN

liquefying

could

we

as

charlatanry

not

the

observance,

AN

other,

or

priests

their

or

Church.
But

to

little

pass

which,

region,

of
the

In
of

of

the
the

and

gauzelike

Vice

of

passed

which

I admit

notice

me

the

outdoor

by

over

di

St.

few

myself
works

of

of

this

attractions
who

any

Severo,

the

near

remarkable

by

fair

work
"

palaces

Modesty,

enter, let

on

appreciate

be

to

in

ait

bright

the

ductions
pro-

genius.

Capella

the

subject

whatever
be

cannot

to

competent

Naples,

one

from

feminine

art, but

undeceived."

Toledo,

character.
veiled

Corradini,

texture

beautiful
The

the

The

in
idea

is

to

distinctly
it is not

itself.

attached

pieces

first

head

are

veil

chapel

three

are

from

features
of

small

The

represented

is

foot,

of

of

while

yet

by

through

curious

second

is
the

ture
sculp-

statue

visible

only

to

as

termed

figure

of

L3

ART

free

to

female
and

himself

figure standing

much

with

with

the

stamped

sculptor
I

of

almost

what

there

that

now

hastily
after
the

jot

to

Theatre

The

of
of

equal
stern

her

the

infant
little

the

her

and
in

at

afar
her

sympathy

have

her
"

feel

that
the

It

matters

that

woman's

her

life

excited

stood

before
of

that
and

Nero.

line

of

is

piece
master-

that

pathos

very
could

even

fancy

cruel

that

decree

ferocious
sealed

was

when

not

they

which

his

doom

hour

are,

the

of

the

from

I could

learnt

famous

the

are

the

this.

as

In

forget.

to

face,

paintings

And

four, which

every

the

interest

mother

with

knowledge

sees

with

in

my

compelled

or

as

the

of

just

she

arms

forth

expressed

one

of

brought

they

as

visits.

beyond

am

Sculpture

Agrippina,

sculpture

to

to

likely

called

the

are

such

once

off

of

least

noble

but

time,

family,

moves

few

son,

revealed.

undone.

wholly

three

lineaments
It

matron

unnatural

features,

many

objects

it

of

Balbi

interest

the

of

on

impressions

far

so

some

am

Gallery

despair

nay,

power

Roman

causing
dim

the

sculpture.

picture

of

those

figure

in

as

the

I made

last

the

names

nerveless
well

as

for

it

deep

reclining

extended

some

numberless

foolishly left

of

of the

deep

form,

the

to

Herculaneum

none

half

the

seemed

of

statues

of

me

it

but

the

division

equestrian

which

precisely

all, are
second

to

seen

down

down

Museum,

that

have

peculiar,

plainly

are

written

time

assembled,

Sense,

is alike

which

cloth, through

death,

Good

Lord

our

having

justice

do

to

the

at

of

third

of

ing
is endeavour-

Martino.

not

in

saw

The

of

he

Genius

figure

linen

San

was

hours

powers

him.
:

which

the

he

net, in which

strong

from

of

impress

regret
I

of

often

in

Imt

near

of

aid

affecting

more

bier, covered

The

the

by

NATURE

meshes

hopelessly entangled,

seems

the

in

struggling

man

AND

of

nature

while

;
"

he
one

lay

has

history.

helpless
had
She

but
is

UNDER

there
the

by

the
in

finest

of

shall

admire

fully

satisfied.

colossal

is

group

but

it is not

of

cursory

glance,

I must

Etruscan

among

the

articles

in

the

classic
domestic

minds

men's

admired

exceedingly.

bracelets, rings,
have

peians

to

jewels

and

with
taste

been

galleries

lady

any

shall

of

by

to

in

even

this
those

among
the

fair

female

the

especially

neither

Pomof

love

century,
of

it ?

say

when

generally

nineteenth

the

I venture

"

shewed

which

fully possessed

as

as

advantage

the

picture department,

secondary

one,

Columbus,

by

the

brow

with

Irving,

in

interest

pleased

was

and

the

in
two

drawn

touching

misfortunes

with

"

of

this

is

eye

the

by

the

details

of

noble

connected

with

him.

Corregffios,

the

Madonna

all

as

portrait

thoughtful,

character

which

which,

The

Parmegiano.
calm

the

many

The

the

monest
com-

purer

In

and

of

linger

of

spent

the

more

not

must

brooches,

and

ornaments

the

this

time

lamps

in

be

of

The

any

brought

well

of

beautiful,

now.

But

tell

by

collection

even

to

the

of

Even

might

many,

seem

use,

than

portion

of

forms

be

splendid

treasures

Days

not

it

exquisite

miscellaneous

and

perception

fascinating

admire.
the

by

pass

is

rival

hope

I shall

or

underrate

not

much

not

embued

most

I would

yet

Farnese

Toro

Herculaneum.

them:

and

taste,

Florence,

of

one

the

Praxiteles,

beautiful,

very
at

kind

vases,

and

Pompeii

from

the

die

to

thought

of

Venus

Venus

though

means,

bronzes,

The

far-famed

The

which

Aristides,

an

the

more

condemned

anguish,

unquestionably

is

135

SKY.

gallery.

Medici,

the

bore

busts

the

mother's

she

whom

son

Among
the

with

mother

ITALIAN

AN

of

clear

di

in

ing
keep-

Washington

long-tried

patience

the

deepest

excite

man

ing,
penetrat-

face
of

is

Christopher

and

whole

hand
the

collection,

Coniglia,

and

tin-

136

ART

of

Marriage
"

earliest

da

Vinci,

style

is

one

softness

of

Raphael's

and

purity
St.

The

me.

number

well

subject,

lovely

remarkable.

the

Domenichino's

known.

so

completes
interested

tender

the

of

full

SKY.

ITALIAN

are

Saviour,

Infant

and

Madonna

is

is

AN

well

Catherine,

St.

Custode"

Angelo

UNDER

NATURE

AMi

of

the

John,
pictures

The

treated.

early

ings,
painthis

which

for

by
which

Leonardo

cularly
parti-

P^ESTUM.

of

xe

the

long

,,(

of

objects
the

been

Many

obstacles

almost

given

beautiful

offered

for

the

The

day

after

them,

friends

thither.

and

beautiful,

proceeded

we

had

opportunity

an

and

seeing

some

bright
o'clock

and

ever

unexpectedly,

dawned

eight

of

hope

has

me

Passtum.

way,

accompanying

my

of

the

in

up

quite

to

ruins

came

when,

interest

deepest

shortly

the

to

railway.

;""
far

As

"Jv

passed

familiar,

was

Nocera

At

we

new.

to

take

thence

is

Cava

and

deep

Cava

the

full

view

of

the

was

not

carnage

The

It

after.

long

of

town

destroyed

was

rich

is

From

beautiful.

and

very

situated

with

glorious

Nocera

Paestum.

to

rebuilt

town,

we

engaged

very

country

which

to

ancient.

is

of

glimpses

one

the

old

thence

and

day

next

encircled

ravines,

for

prepared

and

the

quaint

The

outline.

when

La

from

railway,

partially

and

to

the

through

country

but

Nuceria,

Hannibal,

by

left

Salerno,

formerly

Nocera,

La

to

us

the

"Pompeii,

as

hanging

among
of

mountains

the

deep

Bay

of

form

and

every
blue

which

scene

woods,

Salerno

here

there,

and

sea

the

bursts

upon
is

revealed.

eye

It

138

was

softened
so

lovely.

"Bella

to

describe

thee

for

even

The

and

starting

this,

neglecting

fresh

of

and

which

through

trees

in

nine

o'clock

had

to

were

the

much

so

confess

to

the

of

But

if

reality
more

the

fallen

had

us

the

in

their

smallest

the

brushwood

with

when

passing
of

we

majestic
the

five

was

o'clock.

fine

scenery

the

But

the
chain

of

the

of

and

very

of

the

the

it

moment

to

arrived,

beauty.

The

nearest

of

tured;
pic-

and

the

overgrown.
that

perhaps
and

must

had

own

was

actually

is

had

from

and

plain,

which

is that

them

road,

we

soon

Temples.

sight

By

which

stream,

imagination

anticipation,

Temples,

and

imagined

ferry,

first

than

imposing

of

from

same

flatness

short

of

of

vive,

anywhere.

rapid

of

the

for

compelled

impressed

before
and

of

the

from

probably
luxuriance

beauty

my

picturesque clumps

kind
view

always

beautiful

Silarius,

catch

the

see

of

morning

Temples.
and

proposed
fear

by

in

missioned
com-

was

we

qui

carriage
to

been

primitive

it less

thought

the

expected

that

sea,

have

as

The

soundly.

the

the

on

the

Hotel,

little

was

much

slopes,

would

enough

near

heard

wooded

most

morning,

having

he

Vittoria

sketches.

my

dawned,

to

reached

by

cross

in

passing,

Paestum

plains
we

sleep

daylight

the

the

too

were

were

of

mountains,

we

as

we

attraction

only
of

and

clear,

of
next

far
to

back

give

can

the

at

certainly

was

anticipation

surprised,

was

as

is

attempt

every

memory

away

party

There

early.

very

full

the

which

of loveliness.

several

completed

arouse

hut

scenes

quickly

passed

evening

to

too

those

lilac

does

utterly

and

gradually

which

peculiar deep

how

and

sky, earth,

colour,

Nothing

fail!

moment

Salerno,

Italia!''

clear

stood

sunset:

rose

that

into

darkened

and

of

hues

richest

the

outlines

distant

brilliant

with

flushed

sea

the

against

NATURE

The

lovely evening.

distinct

AND

ART

they
to

the

the

all the
stood

road,

Ceres, supposed

to

140

ART

rabble,

that

uttered

another

not

"

non

"

There

was

beat

of

some

repeated
go

them

Just
round
the

so

and

not

my

intensely

did

in

I doubt

it

of

that

every

of

the

tangled

the

occupation

its

the

over

filling

the

millions

and

have

"

vine

mingled

with

nions
compa-

and

party,

down

with

creating

hour

in

altars

I sat
I

raised,
of

life

of

shadow

the

of

times
with

there

"

the

saw

fair

busy

streets

the

enlivening

brightest,
the

scene

the

"

when

leading

associations
As

these

mingle

to

"

even

shadow

dark
the

tomb

!
"

"

it

as

and

away,

dust,

realizes

since

who,

passed

the

mind,

around

scenes

awe,

an

the

on

life.

after

Generation

been.

peace.

Sitting

insensibly

them

beings,

Temples,

in

us

the

spent

rests, with

now

familiar

with

human

never

and

fallen

But

of

myself

has

untrained

pictured

mind

of

had
gone

the

look,

my

ramble.

amused

ages,

the

take

which

rest

influence

"

solitude.

passes

mighty

palaces,

the

who

gave

and

rapidly

turn
to

parture.
de-

our

past.

an

eye

once

brake

witli

silent

the

that

city

felt

quietly

me.

solitary

one

bygone

which

on

beings

they

has

the

not

steadily

before

deer

on

would

off, leaving

I left

but

distance

success,

did

wild-looking

they

of

some

my

pedestal,

pictures
not

and

now

at

that

enjoy

marble

plains

objects

pleased

dream

to

herd

themselves

took

sketch-book,

mind

deserted

at

heart

something
a

electrical.

those

if

ur

from

scrap

was

bandits

that

seen

off, stopping

broken

my

lately

my

of

eyes

all have

not

"

that

farther,

step

effect

say

cordially congratulated

Taking

not

but

has

one

little

The

adding,

should,

troop
a

also

on

as

run

whole

was

probably

they

now,

anything

flashing

declaration,

my

away

the

I met

as

have

I will

and

single

grano."

un

pause

cpiicker

men,

should

word,

basket

our

advanced

who

one

NATURE

AND

and
"

the

the
are

millions

us

generation
yet

of

creation
to

each

and

as

these

though

has

come

rolling

age

UNDER

it

as

wonderful

other

as

grass

passeth
it

no

to

it and

over

for

more

Very

seats

the

finished

hostelry,
the

crowded

brown

limbs

most

knee

and

square
hair

for

the

the
wind

knoweth

skirts

the

upon

appeared,

from

The

their

dresses

they

would

from

braids

as

have
dark
for

the

generally
the

to

tatters

handkerchiefs

underneath

smooth

of

eyes,

eyes

in

hung

little

group

were

their

scarlet

or

the

the

women

contents

faces, large flashing

dress.

around

about

sketch

to

our

banquet-hall,

pictures

white

in

able

spread

lay

remaining

appearance

of

head,

the

What

in

either

bound

be

to

guerilla

striking

which

beggars

summons

Neptune

memorable

them

us

had

of

troop

I found
of

Temple

this

obey

to

pedestals

in

picturesque

short
all

broken

longed

fine

and

the

among

round

very

the

superb

like

thereof

which

basket,

our

repast

their

part

of

whole

How

with

no

Scripture

are

place

length obliged

at

the

divided

and

made,

days

it

as

left

of

flourisheth
the

and

gone,

was

our

the

basket.

they

he

links,

have

words

his

man

so

turf, within
of

summoned

we

field

contents

some

Having

green

were

for

the

that

defying

to

as

and

stern

sole

their

ever."

of

the

on

the

it is

unwillingly

partake

out

of

flower

beside

do

for

their

alone

away,

forcibly
"As

remembrance,

to

come

all

it found

as

"

over

How

in

Time

by

even

Augustus

stand

entirely passed

so

behind

trace

Caesar

they

triumphed

ages

Temples

of

days

unscathed

has

with

these

there

brotherhood

which

were,

the

antiquity,

solitary
power

in

Visited

141

SKY.

ITALIAN

left

has

passed onwards,

them

AN

which

their

gathered

or

put

in

long
knots

behind.
While

standing
borne

was

knew
off

not

the

not

;
more

but

ere

beaten

to

far
me

long,

from
the

on

as

the

track,

breeze,

came

to

such

grance
fra-

delicious

whence

crossing

was

Temple,

proceeding

part
a

of

the

plain

quantity

of

14-2

ART

violets,
shed
far

that

of

me

in

scene

woods

the

moment

with

hack

brought

yet

was

childhood,

my

distinctness

strange

Stoke

at

hue

reflected

their

"

indeed,

away

at

reminding

around,

all

SKY.

ITALIAN

that

Line,

darkly

purely,

so

AN

UNDER

NATURE

AND

swelling-

the

Park,

"

hanks

hyacinth

wild

since

ISever,

of

wished

to

The

carriage

promised

reward,

handfuls

of

their

remembrance

have

left

stood

sky,

evening

o'clock,

and

excursion

root

head

prize.

greatly

live

with

the

carriage

drive

and

one

retired

to

of

the

the

Amalfi.

by

the

the
and

long

crimson

glorious

most

to

them

purposely

were

our

Temples
will

vividly
after

shall

are.

Yittoria,

early

of

among

watched

long,

lighted

was

we

and

memory

they

where

land

which

The

soon.

claimants

eager

indistinct

more

my

too

off, showering

coins

in

but

the

by

and

more

reached

We

seen.

in

up

homeward

Our

day's

the

up

"

ever

drove

we

small

became

they

as

those

recall

terra-cotta

came

surrounded
and

the
I

provided.

shall

departure

our

again

was

little

How

taking

small

beheld

whilst

me,

"

for

hour

with

the

around.

have

next

mind

my

discover,

to

which

would

of

all

PaBStum,

of

to

blue

colour

these,

on

that

associations

away

loveliest

plains

scene

as

antique

fide

the

their

carry

the

deep

the

looked

last

in

spot

the

of

fortunate

so

was

bona

this

all

with

woods
I

time

dreamed

then

mantle

the

like

anything
I

cast

when

spring,

in

Wood

Barn

of

in

rest,

Salerno,
to

fit

sunsets

soon

ourselves

hues
I

of
have

after
for

the

yet

eight
next

AMALFI.

the

gain

shone

sun

brightly

through

rode

""

wound

our

the

in

jT

It

feel

me

the

by
which

together

so

What

that

to

as

form

of

the

softly

sweeping

whole

circle,
circuit

is

whose

relief

behold

sunny
into

is

the

of

the

which

the

the

maritime

peaks
clear

blue

earth

and

blended

day,
creative

it

of

and

conceive.

can

Salerno

Salerno

is

background
branch

in

lieved
re-

from

is,

indentations,

latter,

the

ether,

of

far

as

to

devices.

rival,

innumerable

of

obliged

of

Bay

to

completely

acknowledged

the

cliffs.

own

most

ere

the

shores,

promontories

Apennines,
dazzling

it

sloping

unbroken

almost

which

the

as

distinguishes
of

its

delicious

such

scene

to

beauty

that

on

actually

must

Naples,

of

times

is

witching

and

cut

enough

at

however,

awe,

and

there,

principally

instead

the

soft

imagination

poetic

of

was

mule

my

feeling

Every

leave

and

away,

footpath

precipitous

and

giddy,

and

perpendicular

then

we

Salerno,

narrow

almost

and

now

look

sky,

of

of

streets

along

way

face

was

make

the

as

us

upon

and

grand,

one

of

nearly
the

inland,
distinct

that

gigantic
in

tower

and

sharp

144

ART

in

outline

abruptly

down

come

if within

as

sleeping

waters

el ill's of

the

detached

the

the

the

wins

the

of

works

God.

peculiar

how

feature

every
is

of

land, air,

of

ocean,
vault

whose

and

makes

cheek

breathe.

of
and
one

with

There
such

visible

can

of

but

briefly
you

light

are

effects
even

and

though

indeed

favoured

in

the

depth

You

look

idea

nothing

may

sandy

of
You
be

beech

of

cold
look

or

does

in

the

the

be

days,

and

into
and

the

storm

around
but
swampy

masses

are

with
the
of

plain

the

which
and
and

of the

day,

especially

sky,

upon

with

live

more

they

of

plains,

heart,
to

hours

are

bosom

breeze

even

the

depths

light

the

gladdens

see

but

gentle

may

not

and

of

and

ordinary

them

shade

winter

charm

spiritual

upon

climate

up

seen

One
is

the

in

it

happiness

this

almost

mountains

wing,

of

the

felt

downy

brilliancy.

direction,

varying

these

light

profoundest

each

nature

the
from

back

of

seen

reflected

seasons,

absent.

connect

with

vies

what

feel

one

when

gives

poetry

the

fans

blue

above

surface

truth

but

whose

mere

veil

sense

every

softness

that

of

produce

to

grandeur

"

there

water

or

of
this

admire

to

landscape.

what

produced,

is there, enchanting

heaven's

the

of

this

effect

colouring
a

how

which

pearly

as

magical

throw

to

effect
an

that
the

seems

well

feel, as

ever

shores

which

effect

elements

and

one

them,

of

and

of

pardoned,

all

over

idea

piled

at

heavens,

yet

calm

volcanic

the

be

may

subdued

"

over

this

is

There

atmosphere,
beauty

ever

love

to

these

to

is

the

And

scene.

there
heart

scale

to

of

and

looking

fable

the

one

bases,

in

ancient

rocks

up

give

their

feels

one

the

fancied

sublimity

that

of

absurdity

is

region

that

so

round

barrier

They

from

branches

nearer

circle

with

forms.

lifted

Their

and

sea,

lovely bay,

fantastic

another

mile.

the

upon

this

most

giants piling

and

half

mountains

against
easily

of

NATURE

AND

rarely
and

seldom

such

flood

landscape,

flinty
in

and

rock

another,

in
or

UNDEli

of

world
is

nature

here

will

be

this

region

found

farther

or

care

thousandfold.
in

such

In

well

of

day

January

and

not

lessened

in

grateful

wild-flowers

in

bathed

of

all

hovering

them

rich

they

may

to

need.

with
if

as

realize

to

This

air,

feared

to

cut

time

to

visit

and
the

as

difficulty was
and

lovely
brilliant

and

gay

no

skies

mellow

and

Nature

stormy

winter,

as

around,

be

here

might

winter

the

to

violets, primroses,

them,

over

seems

summer

of

profusion

without

sunshine, balmy

light

England's

blooming

butterflies
of

that

scarcely

in

cast

to

cheek

to

that

northern

ploughed

returns

profuse

accustomed

us,

of

brightest
by

she

yet

climate

lively landscape,
best

for

it

was

melancholy

and

which

rest

but

earth

so

"

are

tree, and

nothing

seems

exertions

but

the

difficult

How

there

it,

have

orange

bountiful

the

throughout

husbandman

expressed
they

the

and

culture,

climate
for

call

vine

soil

has

luxuriant

and

the

the

of

has

parts

many

Indeed

fields

idea

poetic

own

the

fertilityof

The

of earth

rich

of

part

no

handful

tony
mono-

nor

truly

something

The

is marvellous.

seed, plant

barrenness

there

flourish.

their

barrenness

Wherever

rock,

sunbeams."

the

the

of

neither

of

accused.

be

to

literally,as
by

them

by

shelf

on

third, yet

suggested

can

fallen

in

water

NO

SKY.

ITALIAN

AN

breath

paralyzing
short

their

the

Grotto

holiday

existence.

and

Capuchins,

The

in

the

on

weather
a

until

mist
we

La

thick

and

began

to

interest,returning

the

that

here
had

scarcely

could

descend

we

the

on

day

to

see

other

sudden
cross

each
side.

small

delicious

of

the

beautiful

with

of
the

to

was

silvery light

even

and

It

the

closed

beneath

dinner.

to

we

proved

we

of

Luna,"

lie felt

may
so

places

sea-shore,

morning

next

the

"

evening,

moonlight
stroll

other

called

locanda,

in

Amain

reached

We

the

moon.

changes

the

mountains

other's
Now

in

mules,
and

then

146

ART

came

we

of

with

them

cleared,
laughing

the

of

Many

wound

hair

the

"

we

the

and

however,

"

Naples.

in

to

keep

the

one

Xocera

in

step
time

seat,

and

for

the

as

we

evening

ceeded,
promake

to

occasi*

to

in

"n

epiite

us

it

surefooted

the

any

caused

performed

of

more

as

so

turns

We

gether
Alto-

than

beauty

much

the

to

realized

descent,

one's

sides.

false

so

sharp

as

precipitous

The

Italy.

steep,

difficulty

without

reaching

rode,

seen

shudder

tverhang

and

their

jacket.

district,

Italian

or

again,

reaching

loose

grace

yet

some

nervous

many

to

of

matter

scarcely
blue

statue,

then

And

mountain

tremendously

became

it

of

idea

have

peasantry

head.

women,

preconceived

graceful,

antique

some

bright

this

in

of

petticoat

or

snowy

the

my

scarlet

white

and

that

and

water-vessels.

particularly

as

day

chatting

women,

me

the

around

the
as

classic-shaped

struck

like

up

plaits

costume:

strange
knee,

rolled

rich

in

their

girls

young

dark

their

filled

they

as

many

which,

and

men

and

situated;

around

both

grouped

SKY.

ITALIAN

beautifully

fountains,

pretty

were

AN

hamlets

little

upon

UNDER

NATURE

AND

safety,
animals

train

to

148

ART

well-known

the
noises

had

form

of

neighbourhood

generally

the

ilcano.

It

vt

the

On

when
had

burst

the

edge

to

in

remain

for

mountain

itself
it.

upon
a

Our

distant

proved,
gloomy
Our

prospect,

the

no

from

which

had

we

to

reason

not

volcano

to

regret

of

the

fog

all

Monday
day
in

hung

the

from

sake

of

but

to

enjoyed,
As

the

lowering

the

of

top

delay

for

itself.

the

lend

which

not

previously

the

and

propitious

while

at

was

enveloped

was

brooked

went

we

and

to

on

thick

time

plan

morning

view,

over

daylight,

come

horizon

however,

as

solely

had

we

event

sky

and

weather.

view

of the

thing,

capacious
drive
an

of

consisted

party

half

invisible

especially

better

in

is,the

that

lava

way

Our

considered

usually

"

was

devoirs

our

pay

is

of

friends,

with

The

the

alert,

No

our

should

scene.

the

on

its

Monday.

night

the

impatience,

cause,

with

is

eagerly

mountain.

summit

veil,greatly interrupting

misty

the

the
of

to

visiting Vesuvius,

such

reach

what

promise

the

following

the

to

grandeur

not

of

of

out

stream

the

as

up,

were

making

Naples,

next

pinnacle

darkness

the

till

additional
did

time

January,

31st

communicating
for

party

start

in

lost

arranging

the

down

be

side

the

we

fully

and

movements,

dried

that

in

wells

breaking

the

then

supposed

Saturday,

on

and

be

the

have

to

before

also, rumbling
of

some

said

were

further
on

forth

to

was

well

for

Then

tree.

internally, and

immediately

may

that

NATURE

pine

Resina

case

watch

told,

of

heard

been

AND

of

the

we

carriage
about

and

four

half-past

previous expedition,
the

and

all, and,
fresh

the

preferred

hour, following

through

the

country,

all

in

six

outside

arriving

the

taking

of
at

From

twelve.

vineyards,

air,

the

for
and
Sir

sake

the

0
after

thence

arrangement

same

the
as

bridle-path
being;

shorter

enjoyment

Resina

of

to

;s

sant
plea-

we

started

as

on

the
and

our

mitage
Hermore

UNDER

than

picturesque
proceeded
smoke

some

down

observed

quite

be

on

above

the

Cavalli,"

from

the

and

rattling

dislodged

those

lower

end
a

heat

of

red
could
up

to

see

the

fire

was

of

it.

sky

in

cataract

the

over

snake

edge

does

on

the

above
"

deliberately

victims

so

beneath.

the

The

or

ing
bound-

pieces

not

covered

to

the
the

looking

motion

the

glowingwith

over

actual

deep

summit,
from

torrent

like
from
is

we

below

stupendous

forth

cautiously

of

was

large crater,

crawling

hear

opposite

that

looking

one

of

it

smoke,

both

on

overwhelmed

approached
here

our

lava, hissing

came

often

of

endangered

we

and

On
as

"

it

as

that

way

Even

enveloped

the

of

its

cheers

when,

of

body

of

name

fifth

plainly

sending huge

stream,

obscured.

was

shoot

in

platform

the

very

cinders,

surface, though

and

against

hissing, fiery
upon

tance
dis-

it

good-humoured

of

afterwards

smoking

the

slowly lipping

down

declivity

view

cinders

the

that

level

given

could

we

loose

the

About

progress

Soon

nearer

upon

floating

we

scoriaa

what

accomplished,

occasionally

below.
this

the

been

upwards,

and

steep

of

obtain

of

at

for

us

upon

way.

had

the

among

the

little

the

this,

but

been

amid

toilsome

downward

them,

down

the

vapour-like smoke,

prepared

has

started

point

slow

see

towards

around

before,

which

our

looking

and

mist

of

envelop

fragments

and

us,

little

as

to

we

on

this

and

pausing

red

animals,

our

guides,

ascent

loose

skirts

to

looking

already

inspection.

Hermitage,

di

and

indistinct,

nearer

the

Sala

to

the

the

the

to

had

continued

the

from

which

had

we

attention

below

In

above

When

our

lava,

which

steep

distinguishable

Leaving

of

the

drew

visible

among

of

was

be

mountain.

movement

sides

all
to

the

carriage-road.

descending

cloud

149

SKY.

guides

to

as

of

of

the

upon

far

so

part

upper

the
the

mantle

vapoury

"

from

ITALIAN

winding

way,

rising

come

the

AN

huge,

its

lair

peculiarly

L50

ART

steady

slow,

and

which

cinders

ice

of

summit,

feet

twelve

the

found
heaved
of

the

the

beneath

our

and

outer

feet,
and

stationed,

and

After

yards.
the

bivouacked

this

After
not

on

this

amid
As

the

long try

occasion
which

drew

and

on,

the

dispersing
beautiful

and

the

we

time

did.
had

we

evening

obscure,

patience
we

the

takes

event

of
And

of

grand
waited,

the

the

was

was

lava
above

and

description.

volcano

itself

had

visions,
proset.
sun-

does

darkness,
the
the

to

rendered
upon

there
of

found

we

lava,

twilight

advantage

an

fiery tinge
beyond

it

now

round

until

for

long

few

and

hours

Italian

who

darkness

reflection
a

those

heat

up

basket-stores

an

we

running

upon,

remaining

almost

went

we

the

tread

our

place,

ascended
the

to

producing

beguile

to

hot

too

lava

within

here,
from

winding

which

on

intolerable

distance

not

comfortably,

mound

space

throes

circuit

we

and

moving

edge, sending

almost

some

was

wherewith

the

over

breathing

at

spot

surface

the

where

little

to

verge

poured

making

the

round

swept

atmosphere

sulphuric

it

after

where,

tending
ex-

up,

recent

the

came

or

and

slowly

space,

irregularities,on

verge,

the

ten

centre,

broken

from

this

the

the

Instead

stood,

in

elevated,

Across

in

visit.

we

crater

greatly

beneath.

its chasms

towards

active

On

river.

lava, lying

which

on

of

ments
by frag-

change

hard

irregular piles, evidently

volcano

among

edge

surface

half-frozen

loose

kind

caused

former

of

the

with

that

our

platform

the

of

considerable

since

the
of

cone

whole

into

were

level

is most

descent

progress,

in

crater

than

the

to

found

its

movement

its

other

eaeli

large

lower

the

resembling

we

comparatively

of

angle

attend

somewhat

of the

appearance
the

the
from

or

hnrstling

the

reaching

of

impede

sound,

trinkling

where

even

accompanied,

and

abrirpt,

NATURE

AND

it

by
the

all

been

fog

scene.

doubly

misty

sphere,
atmo-

around,

Hitherto,

as

was

during

peculiarly

UNDER

quiet

and

much

so

had

that

arrived

before

and

we

six

At

we

for

the

whole

with

and

fiery

of

one

fury, sending

up

of

night
smoke

the

of

messengers,
around

the

of

likely
a

to

be

lifetime.

forget
little

the

the

of

of

the

in

cone

and

sensations

again

the

this

moment

of
fear

forth

called

or

nervous

and

the
in

brilliant
fall

curve,

The
the

feelings
as

degree

same

"

And

apprehension,

Can

yet

"

scene,

such

arose,
!"

by

collects

terrible.

the

idea

black

splendour,

excitement,
in

deep

These

indeed

in
and

parabolic

the

pause

dark

of

at

stones

usually

shower

with

subdued

and

the

top.

graceful

other

increase

and

hour

extraordinary

seldom

of

this

beautiful

were

Again

black

more

the

to

to

into

times

tion,
admira-

each

blood-red

feet

mountain

sides

the

of

of

position

our

then

feet,

traced

we

up

tinued
con-

at

it seemed

space,

volleys

at

describing

mingling

it

masses

breathless

times

hundred

after

in

our

jagged

succeeding
At

of

atmosphere

an

stood

we

yet

the

but

into

to

sprang

Taking

throes

rendered

fascination,

awe,

burst

degree,

source.

six

or

about

position

our

more

resting-place by

the

intolerable

roaring

which

much

mingling

despair.

act

beginning

over

through

breathing

volcano,

clouds

murky

and

five

sky,

the

and

minutes.

for
its

meteors

We

crater,

two

or

though

dazzling

evening.

convulsive

little,as

who

by seeing

and

our

the

an

the

its

from

seemed

fearful

below

watching
intervals

its

to

immediately

in

us

rewarded

lethargy,

difficulty

great

stifling to

stream

made

abundantly

which

lava, scarcely half-cooled,

pungent

off

so

"

party

themselves

startled

were

outburst,

stumbling

and

Salvatore

temporary

occurring

explosions.

o'clock

series

took

friend

off this

tremendous

disappointment,

indeed

were

151

SKY.

slight explosion

one

good

magnificent

most

ITALIAN

actually

us

our

throw

speedily

feared

we

from

wisely,

and

only

"

hint

inactive,

AN

are

during
we

there

though

ever

was

sur-

L52

AUT

in

of

ness

the

air,

to

that

say

at

what

find

little

on

On

one

side

from

this

of

the

us,

of

mound

but

fierce

furnace

about

six

world

of

the

below

from

evident
the

surface

red

fire

inches
one's
be

yet

step, that

believed.

foot

of

from

slowly
likened

lava,

at

firm

and

so

without

and

quietly,
that

winding

of

with

thick

motion

honey,

its deliberate

proof,

its

but

the

had

the

this

actual

already

been

that

seamed

could

few

yards

forth,
inaptly

not

dee]), red, glowing

over

the

and

oozed

consistency

to

scarcely

mound
for

way

two

resistance

source,

irresistible

the

which
than

the

fact

how
and

more

feels

to

foot

through

invisible

and

mysterious

the

not

between

been
a

of

be

might

opening,

chasms

and

metal-like

though

cone,
have

must

and

depth

awful

this

volcanic

what

the

this

this

passed,

somewhere

From

the

to

visible

of

appalling

between

Indeed

had

Ave

little

of

heart

the

of

of

not

"

that

feet

ten

fire,
the

to

crater.

or

aperture

edges

rents

stood

the

"

interposed

it treads.

of

next

we

as

eight

fire, like

not

ragged

crust

which

often

and

the

is

of

cavern

This

was

innumerable

the
over

was

at

which

over

It

the

is

slight

abyss

into

position

especially
mouth

depth

"

terrors

and

its

such

above

heated.

in diameter

feet

in

volcano

not

directly

times

seven

discover, by looking
thin

and

mound,

presumptuous

were

the

the

near

earth

and

perfect uncertainty

this

feel

to

earth

the

clear, quivering, glowing

of

flame,

place

lava

looked

eye

from

be

made

were

it

than

whom

heaven

of

powers

vast-

more

"

to

spectators

what

in

or

We

to

Him

the

and

scene,

of

Yet

We

spirit corresponding

witnessed,

such.

caused

the

we

will

His

always

moment,

of

the

all

danger

no

must

vent.

of

presence

yea

of

is

there

danger

"

the

of

water,

there

elevation

operation

ministers

the

but

are

and

have

sublimity

whose

power

fire

an

the

realization

ordinary
and

with

degree

some

of

rather

conscious

were

well

might

that

by objects

rounded

NATURE

AND

river

the

of

black

UNDER

surface

rugged

of

forms

creeping
far

into

the

the
the

over

the

red

of

the

earth.

whole

thick

this

molten

lava,

Liquid

metal

short

its vivid

glare.

and

light

the
from

will

as

approached
the

quite

availed

party
best

roast

to

the

little
"

apple,

who

darkness

in

the

the

found

of

in

leaning

around

on

sky,

these

on

their

fire.

very

seen

attitudes

long

swarthy

in

We

lava, they
of

our

did
to

his

plete
com-

movements

led

and

assisted

light

to

of

ends

of

steps,
foot-

our

the
in

tain
moun-

the

deep
indeed

the

light,
flickering torch-

the

little
or

and

eminences

grouped

glare

ruddy

visages

heat

picturesque

staves,

the

can

great

necessary

upon

white

One

another

artillery

Strangely
men,

awful

One

too

torches

the

but

wild,

the

cautious

our

pine

while

it visible

the

to

heat

its
into

rose

danger.

implicitly

were

flaming

the

their

in

fiery chasm,

some

upwards

we

indeed,

various

the

course,

it

as

cigar,

the

colouring

holding

liquid

light

to

intervals.

figures

standing

thrown

Of

needed,

of

around,

it

but

bore

flashing

was

were

of

it, and

the

falls

overpowering

provided,

were

crackling surface,

guides,

our

of

touching

himself

the

as

iron-

an

from

strange,

of

it,yet

imagination.

lava

edge

of

and

slightest apparent

we

operation.

the

over

the

to

the

bowels

rendering

course,
it

glowing-

rose

tint

ruddy

"

and

of

vapour

it,

down

tion,
descrip-

the

idea

an

"

No

furnace

the

from
rich

running

which

an

from

lending

the

before

even

fresh

white

affecting

without

staves, with

flamed

and

the

near

permit,

intense

its downward

powerfully

approach

thin

deep

the

plained,
ex-

mountain,
down,

of

conveys

reflected

distance,

great

character,

1 "y

marked

darkness,

that

then

below.

from

already

as

the

world

it issues

as

with

wreaths

ascending

idea

an

only thing

the

"

the

of
and

edge,'

flowing

is the

surface,

summit

of

give

can

crater, which,

table

darkness

foundry,
of

old

large

L53

SKY.

ITALIAN

precipitous

painting

no

AN

of

strange

ther
toge-

the

fire

dresses.

1""4

ART

At

times, too,
air,

simple

would

those

around

with

verse

musical

most

of

then

and

each

conclude

them

of

one

NATURE

AND

would
of

hurst

the

start

of

characterize

marvellous

scene

it

those

the

of

notes

catch

one

which

choruses,

first

old

up,

and

wild

and

native

airs

Italy.
After

daylight
Our

had

departed,

descent

cone,

slow

was

different

very

former
and

below,
ride

the

into

fell
this

the

now

us

at

last

awaited

of

and

in

bid

and

much

our

to

this

the

Our

allusion
Dr.

naming

occupy

journey

place

from

in

our

Xaples

and

perilous
where

Eesina,

to

of

deprived

these

lower

however,
the

the

regions

all

the

more

comfort

that

its

society

as

latter,

Rome

valued

of

prospect

scenery,

grateful
to

of

allowing
who,

kind

and

man,

; and

the

by

Hermitage,

that

the

To

Strange,

our

prudent

whose

without

torches,

the

beautiful

there.

hazardous

only

with

when
it

friends

many

darkness

Naples.

at

rendered

enjoyment

medical
ever

air

least,

rooms

the

relieved

little

our

discovered

most

the

great

on

carriage-road

the

at

its

Xaples,

passing

of

rain

arrived,
in

setting
to

climate,

even

February

winds

adieu

to

safer

mountain,

pleasant

our

length

spring

to

retrospect

"

us

safety

but

begun

the

exhausted
in

amid
and

gloom,

comfortless, contrasting,

in

agreeably

longer

it had

heat

chilly

At

the

time

artificial

will

of

conducted

path

surrounding

the

of

length

at

slow

return.

executed

keepers
a

after

of

side

we

Having

after

and

the

flight

their

hours

some

ourselves

down

mad

and

mounted,

we

through

felt

the

from

horses

our

flickering light

By

cautious

and

for

bethought

we

expedition by daylight.
aroused

we

the

enjoying

we

should

enchanting

had

added

I cannot
the

myself
skilful

cold

and

Christian

so

make

fication
gratienced
experi-

friend,

remembrance.
I

shall

always

recall

L56

ART

appendage

to

of

drawers

supposed,

win

Truly
these

sleep.

glad
proved

At

moved

with

who

were

to

we

be,

and

offered

to

accordingly

civilly

very

last

of

one

it

pity

is

the

to

be

"

and

house,

SKY.

ITALIAN

Rome.

and

down

to

AN

ns,

and

appearance,

in

heard

water

the

DNDER

house

every

came

of

nan

NATURE

AND

obtain

speedily

in

us

such

forgot

and

by

conducted

even

search

of

the

go

to

her

made

by

our

rooms.

accommodation

our

fatigues

as

in

sound

ROME.

illlS^ip'pil

HE

shone

sun

BFr^wjT

"f

brightly

tlie

one

following
of

important

most

the

season

the

on

Carnival

festive

that

Rome

at

day,

How

often

"

have

these

how

words

indefinite

the

shrink

well

from

mine

it

have

".
as

amid

written

she

arrival,

affectionate

best
very

shortly
M

answered

possible
joined
introduced

to

went

we

I)

for

and

long

ere

me

to

her

fantastic

strange

and

the

entering
inform

to

the

Corso.

giving

person,

page,
equi-

of

us

afternoon

most

she
came

's

position

us,

In

Rome.

to

in

unexpected

character,

morning

truly

and

the

on

note

my

welcome

and

us,

the

in

early

least

at

for

masque,

ourselves

we

than

far

success

new

me,"

dress,

found

which

Having

for

of

as

tion
descrip-

eloquent

and,

entirely

to

every

full

much

more

scene

kind

task,

without

be

whole

of

medley

our

could

the

was

the

essayed

forth

more

pens

myself,

concerns

nothing
than

many

and

eyes,

called

attempting
far

my

they

ideas

may

of

before

passed

balconies,

seeing

which

everything.
of

their

many

cousin.

Prince

in

were

He

the

himself

acquaintances.
F

a
,

very

158

unaffected

pleasing

with

great

thing.

Prince

entering

person,

the

into

NATURE

AND

AKT

of

spirit

the

apparent

joyment
en-

the

0
,

of

representative
friend

of

Princesse
and

with

course

with

armed
bonbons

found

soon

is

but

in

reality
does

Severely
these

merciless

whence
not

they
to

pelters,

the

and

in

rude

The

double

in

and

comfits,
lime.
full

but

of

from

balcony,

determined

only

throw

to

very

lantly
gal-

showers

of

were

consequence

we

with

We

kind,

pretty

carriage

beneath

well

amusement

covered
a

which

called

energy.

in

from

sundry

are

and

into

then,

great

what

passing

sport

bonbons,

and

encountering

in

or

with

fire

can

return

bouquets

suffer

one

forth

roses,

hard

perfectly

peas,

street, than

by wire-masks,

of

while

carriage, passing

set

necessary.

handfuls

throw

to

and

protected

absolutely

were

many

being

ladies

we

the

We

violets

of

bouquets

in

more

situated.

well

however

the

completely

more

of

length

whole

great

good-humoured

Corso,

enter

far

and

accompanied

the

to

sees

one

the

throughout

balcony,

friends

bis

round

giro

some

of

as

scene,

on

in

while

families,

by

one

every

After

Borghese

I went

the

of

fun.

Italian

old

's,enlivened

and

raillery

the

of

one

treated.

Slowly

thrown

bouquets

them.

among
succession

step

of

the

flowers

line

most

absurd

and

bonbons,

my

suspended

my

best

bow

his

hat

as

and
a

bag,

for

beautiful

sugared

from

it.

this

best

my

trophy.
which

chevalier"

preux

erst

For

bouquet

Another
had

held

I,

cigars

of

the

me

; but

he

the
time

day,
with

and
little

returned

course,

latter

me

upon

olden

bonbon,

the

threw

the

in

as

with

me

speech,

giving

stood

and

came

articles

pretty

after

mask,

"

himself

really

several

had

carriages, we

of

and

us,

carriage, making

presenting

Turkish

the

to

One

of

declaring

trinkets

in

following

fastened

prettily worked
of these

unfemi-

in

UNDER

nine

luxuries

he

with

place

bad

AX

assiduously

bonbons.

contadini

in

the

The

districts,

exhibition.

They
with

and

quite

crowd

the

fair

many

The

style.

most

the

even

Then

there
with

damsels,

hands

Or
round

to

decorated
with

colours

below

flying

were

and

hurrahs,

darkened

in

with

five

and

this

of

rows

the

the

varied

of

the

never-ceasing

"

of

floral

bedlam-like

missiles.
appearance

In

you

short,
of

the

the

Corso

gaily

tiers,crowded

in

hurdygurdies,

where

guise.
dis-

gestures

were

side

bouquets

of

laughter,
of

with

the

fiore

!" of

renew

that

far
the

your

extraordinary

during

monious
har-

Italian

of

screaming

might

very

of

kind

Ecco

the

The

shouts

of

you

whose

their

seats.

tinkling

telling

but

and

showers

Mingling

were

by elegant

either

on

the

sound

all

baboons.

Above

direction, amid

every

friendly greetings.

bouquet-venders,

most

audience.

double

nay,

closely pressing

with

musical

supply

with

and

voice

while

be

to

betrayed

animated

forms,

different

hats,

group

four

yet there

in

driven

discord

bagpipes,
more

fair

and

seemed

features

whose

that

thousands

carriages

balconies,

lined

was

times

at

and

in

donkeys,

amid

everywhere

were

upon

plexions
com-

splendid

and

lovely

eyes

dresses,

the

shepherdess

admiring

an

windows

bright

street

that

arrest

and

their

of

beauty

the

olive

faces

as

bears,

came

improvvisatore,

fail

of

dominoes

sunburnt

we

of

cars,

ringlets
and

again

some

never

air

long

brown

large

animals,

triumphal

were

scarlet

some

of

black

clear

ideas

saw

masks

Spaniards,

of

rich

the

and

brilliant
and

England

grotesque

heads

hair

cast

old

the

women,

Campagna

their

their

supplied

interesting part

from

Friars, Turks,

seen.

the

preconceived

women.

girl

of

the

magnificent

most

beautiful

raven

with

my

Italian

the

of

was

realizing

of

beauty

their

well

contrasting

of

joyous,

so

it,and

most

looked

gladness

divested

dress

were

L59

SKY.

groups

picturesque

surrounding

dancing

ITALIAN

memo-

and

L60

ART

rable

day

be

to

into

certainly thought,
could
than

more

the

the

of

the

without

so

other

devices,

that

earth,

after

lean

dangle
are

terrified, to

all

pleasure

their

The

cloud
their

speed,

heard

with

forward

to

whole

pass
!

of

to

There
this

of

and

leaving

"

withdraw,
is

part

the

last

very

the

the

utmost,

they

on

which
ing
rush-

surface

of

the

by

the
with

past

were

with

temerity
moment

to

themselves
had

something
of

sundry

distant

multitude.

vast

that

the

tracked

way

and

heard,

they

"

balls,

crowd

was

ploughed

dust,

the

horror,
the

tramp

that

receding
of

approaching

lives

distant

told

spiked

On,

dense

this

been

to

to

horses

or

I had

them.

at

from

this

by

the

through

cannon-balls
a

looking

speed,

iy

themselves

exert

in

way

them.

of

they

sides, and

crowded

much

by sharp

of

whirlwind

Barber

tortured

their

at

like

before,

slowly

crowd

full

at

it

from

ride

still looks

the

moments

sadly

are

commotion

animals

few

animals

raising

and
We

but

of

fired

the

expected

enjoyed

is

away

follows

not

gance
extrava-

one

gun

again

I had
race

such

no

street

back

and

Although

dragoons

whole

them.
the

clear

to

which

horse-race,

to

as

headlong

their

dash

before

whiz

which

they

clearing

opened

roar

beings,

I lost

came,

Corso,

spectacle,

hung

as

the

sunset

witness

and

time.

it, that

mounted

the

the

poor

of

troop

the

assuredly

gaiety,

childish,

At

whilst

riders

the

that

and

is

go

and

witnessed

there.

of

two

or

spirit for

wearying

to

into

entered

too,

individual

mirth,

then,

for

way

part

so

and

and

minute

the

when

human

make

did

centre

carriages
with

before
be

Capitol,

down

its

be

excitement,

gravest

of

only
I

The

good-humour,

something

it must

only seen,

nor

"

the

defy

national

that

enter

seeD

conceived.

all

at

infectious.
all

be

must

NATURE

AND

cost

grating

spectacle.

the

least
to

In

the

see

only
at

which

many
frantic

instant

two

in

persons

the

feelings

former

days

in
the

UNDER

had

race

been

be

to

substituted,

themselves

they

still

are

161

SKY.

and

Jews,

barbarous

the

inflicted, by

by

run

ITALIAN

AN

though

compelled

take

to

costly prizes for

the

have

home

implied, though

indignity

providing

horses

now

to

longer

no

of

owners

the

winner.
in

Even

the

streets

and

Case,
infinite
I

not

extinguish

in

triumph

whole

the

of

of

with
the

the

Carnival,

nice

very

di

Piazza
them

to

remove

in

lodgings

one

le

Capo

night,

same

had

we

Spagna,

the

of

to

our

Cries
the

of

long-successful

conspicuous

above

were

being

able

of

huge

broom,

to

was

the

extinguished

noise

great
and

torches,

and

favour,

till

heat,

not

frequent

to

showers

some

and

lessly
merci-

were

capture,

in

the

story

without

our

this

performed
and

speak

laughter

over

lights,

triumph.

of

made

those

our

that

crowded,

were

others

out

Conceived

be

triumph

which

with

in

encased

lights, we

of

several

sweeping
the

return

of

with

bespangled

roars

"

the

and

bewilderment

balconies

number

and

continually

which

with

the

from
D

Our

torches,

moccolo,"
or

window,

every

can

the

din,

exclaims
moccolo

them

Nothing

Senza

At

and

wax,

Senza

of

many

discomfited,

opponent

attacked.

lights,

"

"

looked,

you

the

of

he

flaring

were

way

confusion,
!

effected,

the

vours
endea-

person
of

degree.

lanterns.

paper

the

This

of

scene

torch

lighted

to

houses,
each

each

individual,

brilliant

was

closing

which

own

dancing, waving

expense

however,

his

"

around

in

luckless

the

the

silence

neighbour's.

below

surpass

reigned

in

over

Moccoletti,"

coloured

various

feat,

to

roofs

street

myriads

last

from

his

d'ceil

on

being

leading

confusion

meet

burning

to

coup

the

to

"

keep

to

at

enough

pass

the

to

even

the

satisfaction.

must

The

of

able

were

Carnival,

to

midst

fortunate

been
of

the

I, tired

of

the

of

incited

at

of

smell
wax.

!"-!

ART

li'l't rather

house.

scene

The

distractions

holiday

visitors

quiet

task

of

into

antiquities

to

which

from

districts, and

sobered

the

hum

of

crowds

of

in

the

Capitol,
class

to

one

idea

an

pleasant

Rome.

of

enables

into

down
the

Tower

form

to

the

over,

interest

the

to

go

of

the

to

distant

commenced

we

the

Corso.

the

citizens

objects

first

indeed

the

being

Lent,

various

view

left

the

and

of

advised

panoramic

had

of

except

seen

contrast

heard

We

Carnival

dispersed,

be

to

was

back

the

at

street

sudden

we

the

of

observance

were

the

after

visiting the

We

being

carriage;

Long

side

just quitted.

multitude

the

NATURE

to

human

the

had

we

the

not

with

servants

walking

earlier,

Here

AND

of

their

the

relative

situations.
It

was

admirable

an

excitement
lead
the

back
once

friend

Of

or

When
moments

the

the

of

Here

the

with

bell

in

able
pleasur-

steps which

steep

close

passed

we

that

for

Her

new-born

and

many

itself

trunk

carrying

its

"

to

it

me

character,

drawn

"

tree

forth

Leaf,

"

solemn
vibrate

reign,

tones,
with

alas,

brief!"

too

this

career

"

heart

To

people's ehief,

with

his

during

noble

beside

"

thou,

Numa

whose

let it be,
the

and

champion,

deeds.

the
puts

garland

mighty

beautifully

! while

withered

long
a

is thus

of Romans

occasions

and

Eienzi,

of

days

thy tomb

forum's

times

people,

Freedom's

loud

of

Capitol,

of

The

many

causing

the

stirring

! last

Even

rung

Tower.

and

purpose,

ascent

the

to

of

Rienzi

"

On

the

"

at

the

of

bell

mind

spoke

of

top

large

the

as

the

to

the

began

we

for

day

heard
response

bell

deep-toned
by

ear.

every

of

triumph

terror.

we

ere

reached
we

could

the

platform
lix

upon

of
any

the

Tower,

individual

it

was

some

object,

the

1('"4

Jupiter

Capitolimis

Saturn

the

fragments
Roman

of

"

of

Yes

immortal

in

the

that

amid

and

glow,

accents

the

"

is

grass,

The

dren
chil-

where

The

factions

still the

broken

Forum.

below,

silenced

of

years

of

of

Temple
amid

alone

space

tangled

the

of

centre

open

the

thousand

columns

lonely

fellows

playing

There

the

its

Forum
are

the
"

single pillar, standing

one

"

NATURE

AND

ANT

Forum!"

sleep

breathes

air

eloquent

there
"

Cicero!"
To

"

the

the

left

is

Golden

where

all

that
of

House
the

now

remains

vanished

the

the

Nero,"

untrained

of

Palace

of

Caesars,

the

"

vine

and

tall

reeds

of

pomp

in

grow

wild

luxuriance.
From

this

marked.

Tower

The

covered

vineyards

the

Tiber."

Over

Basilica

of

Ccelian.
and

the

St.

the

made

Basilica

point, Monte

and

Moving
Coliseum

by

the

to

hath
from

another
in

gigantic ruins,

to

the

Palatine,

rests

the

of

the
is

its summit

very

of
of

The

Pope,

magnificent

Baths

Maggiore.

the

"Yellow

boundary

the

by

Yiminal
of

the
the

on

of

Palace

by

marking

Bock,
imagine

to

more

"

view

have

yet
or

the

Titus
is

Quirinal
its

on

highest

difficult

to

tinguish,
dis-

it lies between

platform,
"

reared

marvels

one

of

what

from

the

And

Borne,

beneath

yet

whether,

cleared."

modern

death

the
ruin

been

but

immediately
the

of

quarter

and

plundered,

ancient

Tarpeian

eye

Palace

flatness

distinctly

the

Esquiline.

comes

been

washed

Maria

The

Walls, palaces, streets,

its

the

the

of

indicated

vast

stands

ruins

base

is

Santa

Cavallo.

from

Quirinal

its

Lateran,

of

conspicuous

the

and

Esquiline

it

be

can

"

Coliseum,

John

The

which

on

Aventine,

"

hills"

seven

Capitoline

with

Csesars

"

the

the

traitors

is

then,

the
a

ruin

!"
of

material

indeed,

"

it

turning

ere

pointed

Capitol.

mighty

out

It

precipitated

the

is difficult
over

it,

UNDER

when
a

looks

one

; but

garden

lessened

the

by

How

at

doubtless

the

piling

of

its

Not

far

my

"solitary trumpet,"

Hymn

he

was

the

of

of

Liberty

rises

the

May

which

Once

1347,

old

out,

Look

up

Bright

is crowned

Rome

vale

from

and

the

of

wave

Vision, what

Pale

From
Like

wind

form

shadowy
in

the

as

"

shroud

The

dead

And

the

gloom

And

the

trembling

All

hail

man's

to

the

of

Soul

Its

on

the

armed

Its

presence

looks

world
of

"

giant ghost
of

the

Lo,

"

the

when

midst

deeps

sweeps

wind

awful
the

on

mighty

blow.

tempests

"

host

"

limbs

"

daylight
aghast
Past

dims"

"

!
Hail!

All

much
bited
exhi-

of
in

chanting

grave

Thou

art

It

though

roused

hence

brave.

deathless

dark

Time's

Like

stands

and

"

laurelled

each

dust

as

sound

renowned"

Jubilate

It

the

while

Jubilate

Sing

and

vast

Rienzi

around

throne"

seven-hilled
more

around.

yet with

first

by

Capitol,

exult

mountains

her

On

sky,

Let

greatly

the

its walls

them

the

to

ruins

Church,

Rome,

20th

on

overhanging
been

the

into

upon

assembled

on

they poured

streams

it

allegorical picture
too,

the

from

unpretending
for

have

may

fir

feet

all beside.

over

an

few

distance,

Peter's,

eyes,

Here,

but

height

this

pre-eminence

in

the

people.

St.

of

off stands

of interest

of

rubbish

at

even

Dome

asserting

up

],;.-,

SKY.

ITALIAN

elevation

an

sublime,

wondrous

AN

hail!

the
the
vast

the

LG6

ART

AND

As

speak

we

clouded

its

As

The

bud

cresl

thai

sun

from

up

takes

"

laurel

the

breathes,

It

moves,

wreaths
:

leaps

Shadow

Tt
"

SKY,

ITALIAN

AN"

hollo!

we

as

"

From

UNDER

NATURE

of

the
anus

and

shape,

the

night,
takes

gloom

light.

Hail!

The

Soul

To

In

Hath

its

ancienl

the

hearts

of

Its

with

the

And

the

right

rejoice

the

cell

strong,

arc

day

voipe,

earth

oppressed

the

Through

the

proud

is

Wherever

reign

prophet's

of

ends

Wherever

Rome

resume

Bid

again

Past,

home

to

come

Fame,

the

of

hail!

All

by
dim

wrong

"

"

shines

where

captive

the

pines
"

Go

with

forth,
tell

Ami

to

the

sound,

trumpet's

nations

round
"

On

hills

the

which

heroes

the

trod
"

In

shrines

the

the

of

saints

of

God
"

In

the

Cffisars'

halls,

and

the

prison

martyrs'

"

That

the

slumber

That

the

reign

And

earth

feels

is

of

the

the

and

broke,

Goth

tread

and

of

the

the

the

Sleeper
Vandal

arisen

is

o'er

Roman

)nce

more

VATICAN

THE

STATUARY

evening,

ne

turned

torchlight

bility

[W

that

of

his

peculiar

of

art

the

proba-

Romans
ployed
em-

which

the

they

wish

friends

which

the

heightening

kindly

his

con-

and

days,
of

the

beauty

statuary,

former

usual

for

to

mode

Albano,

the

on

in

works

With

Palazzo

gives

this

those

the

at

versation

'A

TORCHLIGHT.

BY

were

to

proud.

so

procure

within

his

of

effect

joyment
en-

any

reach,

A^

immediately

Ji/r

'.)

its

heard

of

speak

the

in

by

torchlight.

of

this,

Rome,

advantage,

well

as

as

was

the

of

alone

an

of

the

time

lost

was

securing

the

first

torches

give.

had
no

the

sculptors
the

to

enjoyment

our

can

in

and

to

pleasure

great

No

one

placing

Vatican,

gratification

party

the

with

him.

enhance

to

as

forming
to

was

through

artist

explanations

it

Macdonald,

direct

to

as

It

preparations,

Mr.

of

him

except

of

idea

accompany

needful

services

the

at

to

enjoying

making

friendly
then

treasures

him

chance

in

evening

some

admire

caught

by

M-

's
"

best

such

cousin,

"

"

Prince

Lord

and

Lady

Madame
,

Lord

a
,

very

lovely

Russian,

Lady
,

and

Lord

de

1(18

AKT

of

were

the

NATURE

AND

with

and

party;

the

usual

of

amount

attendants
with

which

the

entered

particulars

of

of

Leaving,

what

is called

division

of

the

and

of

which

forms

merely

note

the

of

The

first

crown

of

the

taken

by

at

the

Florence

follow

of

wife

Yeii.

known,

in

other

of

I had

the

early
in

Neither

gallery

so

that

that

statue

or

ticularly
par-

The
when

matured

Drusus,

at

was

the

in

great

feature
of

celebrated

statue

mother

of

the

that

so

bought

of

Emperor.
and

expression

and

him

Emperor,

and

statue

one

brought

this

Albano,

forty

it is

represents

of

celebrated

he
of

strongly

and

with

toga,

marble,

bust

found

was

the
beside

Parian

Another

age.

in

Close

Augustus,

young

twelve,

"Demosthenes,"

Antonia,

of

grave.

Tiberius,

at

likenesses

the

sepulchral

"Chiara-Monti."

bust

of

statue

nobleman.

undoubted

being

the

the

of

only

simplicity, and

Museo

there

found

the

executed

was

each
latter

age

and

busts

of

years

English

an

three

leaves,

it is of

sixteen

about

the

to

their

beyond

division

sitting

beautiful
;

in

on

first

now

occasions

records

the

the

could

other

on

to

passed

ancient

of

and

forms

We

lost

be

once

which

these

hope

at

that

me.

oak

most

Ostia

from

was

Raphael,

collection

time

here

attracted

of

touching

second

down

Stanze

among

to

much

give

we

should

though

them

reference

hours

we

any

not

those

Bramante.

this

record

to

I would

yet

pictures,

monuments,

many

and

large assemblage.

trying

Lapidaria,

of

pleasure

constant

could

famous

corridor

with

Christians,

the

Galleria

through

inscriptions
lingered

the

the

walk

rapidly

retracing

the

in

task

place

everything, together

pretty

arduous

course,

galleries containing
to

numbered

wondrous

mentally

for

required

are

we

an

on

that

of

power

me.

Italy

torchbearers,

I have

the

in

him

there

are

All

former.

found

Germanicus,

at

semble
re-

the

character;

two

at

Then
Frascati

Claudius,

UNDER

The

Livia.

and

wonderful

perfection;
the

by

me,

finest

found

Medica/'

marble,

the

as

it.

behind

that

it

opinion,

mine

worthily
which

notices
of

interest

on

should

like
in

And,
long

which

the

to

of

cabinets,

cannot

the

to

they

the

on

these
the

to

Antinous,
senses

of

the
its

energetic,

might

learn

that

great

After
the
with

from

it

skill

has

looking

group
a

in

force

I could
a

the
which

even

placed

believe

art.

they

are

cabinet,

finished

even

beauty.

placing

loveliness

strikes
own

; and

that
of

the

dictated

its

of

is, indeed

estimate

cabinet

next

have

were

second

it

truer

The

must

but

the

well

the

upon

mens
speci-

sion
pleasing impres-

any

Beautiful

form

portico,

master-pieces

to

me

and

they

and

turned

made

open

it

Belvedere.

choicest

the

Antinous.

graceful

an

with

producing

the
that

Perseus

that

the

are

many

only

help thinking

I therefore

me

statues.

startled

life-like

are

the

Canova

of

than

objects

di

the

contain

first, is

comparison

mind.

contains

seems

wish

incapable

and

Domenichino

It

which

I looked

as

by

Canova.

Doubtless

which

is surrounded

the

here, challenging

on

there

In

contrary

"

court

Cortile

spent

sculpture.

Boxers, by

Boxers,

heterodox

traversed

by

pass

the

at

stop

left

be

not

brief

slowly

wholly

must

half-hour

This

small

light

judgment
So

the

of

numberless

we

an

the

cast

however

the

on

tures
sculp-

convey

must

fragment.

fell, as

eye

to

as

to

Minerva

those

can

matured

bestow

and

the

held

more

"

transparency

remark,

this

can

name,

return.

four

been

truth,

to

with

alone

galleries, that

immense

of

one

in

out

seemed

the

Apollonius

but

requires

is

the

so

of

cannot

it

as

description

with

torso

wrought

seen"

This

were

appreciate

to

have

nor

struck

famous
I

surpassed,
I

copy

was

though

is

statue

flambeaux

The

unnamed,
the

figure

Esquiline.

neither

idea.

adequate

the

on

is

this

it

yet

draped

which

of

of

drapery

\C,"j

SKY.

ITALIAN

AN

upon

power

of
of
the

could

have

scarce

it.

As

the

human
felt

if

as

folds

of

those

hideous

the

in

of
of

struck

of

They
the
in

father
the

than

called

emotions,

alone

stands
divert

the

apart

from

unconsciously

he

descend

thought

it

with

instinct
is

on

"

in

if

appear,

air

Here

form

meet

for

life
and

be

mien,

of

such

an

senseless
in

must

deem
evinced
be

thing

And

in

of

what

form

were

realize

to

attitude,

so

the

figure

marble

ideal

arose,

messenger

can

to

somewhat

as,

childhood

bright

he

kind

any

perfection

and

the

to

There

something

angel.

elastic

father.

left,

felt,

of

move,

seemed

cold,
so

very

the

to

positively painful

of

thought

and

again

once

earth

look

angel

an

"

would

that

on

has

the

any

had

the

at

skill

Belvedere

how

know

scarce

rest, I looked

the

would

How

one

ornament

no

of
In

refer

the

we

Apollo

the

statue,

attention.

Almost

beauty.

of

that

the

group

mind,

ever.

of

Could

from

the

remark

statues.

the

than

those

so

must

change

by

other

no

the

beauty

men

these

forth

elevated

pure,

to

of

arrangement

enchanting

more

miniature

Again,

giant.

with

There

doubtless

judge.

compared

as

but

boys,

not

are

sons

for

and

which

to

the

impression

perhaps

more

qualified

unlock

ago

the

ever

imperfection

better

tightening

upon

lose
for

on

years

the

upon

to

grows

never

afterwards,
an

the

of

sympathy.

the

now

nearer

which

idea

spectacle

look

to

it.

upon

of

resist

hundreds

struggling

recalled

proportions

no

"

should

group

far

to

were

lest

agony

others

straining

horrible

the

this

moment,

they

away

forms

long

serpent,

than

turned

thinking

arms,

thrown

that

save

continue

not

those

of

something
I

could

when

appalling

the

feeling

every

motionless

light

strong

for

prepared

move

stood

all

though

as

arrested

one

embrace

and

seemed

been

we

the

by

"

agony

helplessness

is

it

mind

spell,

revealed

was

spoke

one

fatal

irresistible

one

Laocoon

No
of

by

the

had

produced,

80

ethereal

apparently

so

\12

ART

of

sense

moral

that

genius

gift

often

old

of

that
led

been

the

have

translations

some

instances

could

genius

by
which

those

gifted

higher

the

or

open,

poets,

as

and

liar
pecu-

poems

least,

streams,

purer

several

at

honoured
dis-

was

with

and

well

as

the

works,

Giver

of

sculptors,

of

their

lately,

and

taste

than

while

that

sources

of

sense

beauty

them.

yield

shall

transcribe

rivalled

author

highest

name

it

lived,

whose

but

date,

the

even

whose

one

later

comparatively

Angelo

to

adored,

ward
out-

instances,

many
on

the

in

too

the

their

of

faithful

rapture

Yet

painters

enjoyment

and

with

correspond

so

in

SKY.

with

look

with

met

shew,

had

men

who

ITALIAN

beauty

fear,

to

forgotten

Italian
to

seem

it

deified

pleasure,

AN

semblance

is

Sad

and

the

create

ourselves

wras

tJNDEB

intellectual

and

like

NATURE

could

form

even

AND

true,

and

genius
them

among

is

fame
Michael

all,
"

Buonarotti.

"

Now
I-.

all

And

do

Which
Melt

into

That

fabled

are

The

tir^r

what

When
On

lofty

we

Him

is

ye

certain,
does

have

whose

tales

arms

of

and

brood,

queen,

keen

!
"

the

of

withstood.

must

love,

empty
death

the

last

be

what

nigh

Cross,

does

and

were

dread.

"

love

been,

good.

or

how

two-fold

Sculpture
seen

has

"

most

if

now,

feel

now

and

seen,

course

fancy's

my

idol

an

needed

joys,
ye

dreams,

is

port

their

if bad

flood

tempestuous

that

tried,

Art

air, and
I

view

what

he

of

what

What

Ah

those
made

in

answer

work

life's

through

lull

must

every

Now

bark

and

Bteered,

Whore

Ye

frail

my

fixed

there

Painting
our

prove

eye-

outspread

at

!"

"

has

PETER'S.

ST.

pronounce

glorious

must

of

purpose
successive

the

visit

and

to

pretend

distance,
In

has

and
may

we

true

most

step

as

its

by

familiar

some

take

the

of

for

here

mind

to

it

with

in

are

tain.
moun-

usually

example,
of

height

and

these

It

correctness.

carried

out

then,

with

proportions

itself,

or

of

whatever

object

the

of
eye

first
of

the
measurer

is

the

the

"

entrance

one

entrance,
and

But

actual

and

are

proportion

exactness.

the

of

length,

tolerable

com-

space

or

door

breadth,

proportions

take

the

to

by

For

be

the

plicable
ap-

details

of

for

way

plain

various

the

faultless

has

of

width

will

these

and

size

the

that

parts

also

the

though

as

vast

only

judge

to

vast-

measurements

The

is

and

accordingly

beautiful

the

height

felt

too

measurement.

granted

comprehend

have

and

edifices.

does

one

architectural

that

in

rules

magnitude

buildings,

idea

some

real

other

each

us

upon

becoming

were

for

At

has

we

the

raised

was

worship."

until

by

ordinary

estimated

of

its

it

master

to

,j

it

beauty,

of

idea

mind

'

religious

"

Peter's

ever

grown

ness

''

that

temple

the

;M

St.

Gibbon

might

ell

the

174

ART

from

starts

has

previously

deceived.

side

the

the

they

represent

of

yet

infancy,

more

through

all

in

yet the

or

yet

the

feet

it

high

the

of the
docs

not,

on

produce
might
once

strikes
I

that

the

is

ordinary
no

peculiar

the

smell

is

stranger
in

till

and
or

the

of

spires

of

in

the

vastness

of

the

dampness

materials

deception

of

the

which

of

which

the

confined

"

and

Unlike
there

air, nor

composed

at

assists

space

atmosphere.

it is

one

which

largest dimensions,
or

least,

at

which

and
of

itself

edifice

greatness

Peter's,

St.

as

"

peculiarity, however,

one

of

stand

visits

repeated

and

ninety-two

This
the

the

at

more,

you

that

fact

after

freeness

halls

which

altar

ordinary

an

is

feeling

realizing

feeling
of

the

of

Baldacchino

church
for

size

his

in

building

being

on

the

high

as

pavement

minds,

purity

churches

unpleasant

the

accounts

There

think,

greatly,

this

of

exquisite

the

the

one

any

the

magnificent

and

over

the

to

overwhelming

expect.

enter

appears

common

many

that

you

occur

of

our

readily

eye

dome,

of

holds

rich

so

life,and

than

is the

there

the

surmounts

level
of

many

As

never

which

cross

as

under

And

figures

Luke

gilt, of

bronze

structure

would

above

of

least

at

larger

St.

Again,

they

compartment

little

which

pen

feet.

Peter.

St.
this

end,

pulpit

half

directly

of

tomb

the

canopy,

workmanship,

further

of

glance,

which

men

are

lowest

very

each

limbs, representing

There

the

look

below,

and

Baldacchino

round

first

them

found

ordinary

details.

marble
on

children,

we

three

white

the

at

one

((instantly

Water"

chubby

their

than

mosaic,

length

exact

is five

hand,

with

and

from

which,

of

inspection

near

wondrous

its

size

the

Holy

doubted,

never

is

eye

of

"

of

ordinary

massive

Evangelists
dome,

the

instance

basins

the

on

high,

feet

seven

and

the

entrance,

were

that

architecture,

anything

beyond

far

so

well-known

supporting

near

that

in

seen

In

cherubs

stupendous,

bo

;uv

"

NATURE

AND

is
any
All

(\I"KK

is too

distant

has

climate,

so

close

heated.

never

there

is

and

or

sudden

no

what

be

may

within

this

the

We

the

from
a

laden

houses,

and
to

have

and

by

lighted,

understood
account

and

up

more

of

firmament

to

seem

has

pated,
antici-

had

we

Peter's
formed

indeed,

is the

only

of

true

of

one

its

the

most

gentle

of

do

with

the

fields

immense
the

ascent,

in

of

American
that

he

this

world

lead,

"

upon

the
their

ance
appear-

dwelling-

fountain

of

complete

cation,
domesti-

higher

Cooper
with

water

sphere,
As

recalled,

seized

horses

Arrived

with

passage

that

below.

we

author
was

the

ascent

of

symptoms

residence

for

somewhat

materials,

easily

constructed

burdens.

who,

not

ness,
steep-

walk

you

road,

an

presents

workmen,

laborious

enough

their

buildings,

interminable,

but

paved

so

other

and

permanent

the

ordinary

their
;

wide

scene

of

from

staircase

with

heaps

to

in

as

than
of

down

village

flowing,

what
of

summer,

atmosphere

St.
be

can

broad

and

waggon,

go

as

stifling

upwards

nothing
the

matter

or

than

of

not,

number

implements,

constantly

space

which

No

seasons

steps, apparently

actual

little

its

senses.

more

idea

do

you

principal roof, the

of

the

presents,

common

dark

/, well

constantly
the

of

agreeably

cordon
ot*

place,

flights

and

the

softened

summit

of

spectacles.

first

much

ascent

that

almost

chilly, and

disturb.

beneath

to

Peter's

atmosphere,

winter

and

the

to

its

splendour,

subdued

St.

never

without,

and

adequate

This

extraordinary

and

the

any

magnitude.

so

golden

ascent

an

which

by

mount

and

experience,

on

that

In

beauty,

grateful soothing

same

found

way

of

change,

no

ever

world

in
can

temperature

of

immensity

very

currents

or

it is

calm

"

interior

own

the

stillness

the

colours

glowing
know

From

draughts

The

its

17")

SKY.

this.
of

speak,

soothing

for

open
to

ITALIAN

AX

and

seem

versed
tra-

we

quite

says,

in

the

idea

his

of

17i*)

having
the

horse

three
from

one

hundred

about

arise.

The

fine

little

mountain

proportions,

only

be

only

be

judged

which

is

the

extent

the

base

from

to

of

The

broad

had

of

the

of
to

kind.

feeling

around,

on

of

by

us

and

interior
is

that

Church,

all, except

at

the

dullest
for

the
the

it

me

overwhelming
the

naturally expanding,

eye
"

half

railed

is

gallery

to

Not

one

powerful

of

deep

magnitude,
rested

growing

and

for

larger

as

awe

and

strongest
there

high

but

is

stantial
sub-

the

pendous
stu-

unexpectedly
impression
and

of

solemnity,

everything

though

moment,

is

It

up.

gallery,

that

and

fall

suddenly
a

way

the

try

broad,

possibility of

inclined

interior.

imagination.

was

of

the
series

long

About

the

this.

reach

to

upon

think,

produce

than

passages

dome.

itself,bursting

With

plain

climb.

round

this,

farther

leaden

doorway

runs

inevitably

which

can

side, prevents

seen

no

narrow

the

of

position

spectacle

some

the

every

being

can

dome
the

inside

on

still to

and

summit

upon,

must

the

encases)

outer

ornament,

perfect,

that

below

had

steps,

railing prevents

one,

the

the

traverse

slightest danger,

upon

and

they
like

centre

of

size

continues

ascent

we

of

affect

and

; but

distance.

the

the

from

church

absolutely

me

of

itself

would

the

not

height

the

to

plain

are

architecture,

stretches

dome

ushered

and

moment

the

roof

to

opens

nerves,

the

flights

cicerone

which

which

mountain

leads

plane,

Its

which

these

in

double,

pavement

therefore

short

is

the

outer

of

rises

(which

one

road

architectural

it

it

large

indeed,

; as,

from

the

to

this

From

ones,

Eaeli

to

that

inner

seen

above

plain.
seem

here

of

considerable

We

which

besides

the

of

only

for

rise

which

the

from

and

side

feet.

that

insignificant beside

are

two

proportioned

dome

it!"

upon

below,

thirty-six

and

NATURE

gallop

immediately

very

to

domes

seen

be

AND

ART

were

larger

even

preterwhile

UNDER

until

gazed,

one

bewilderment
which

massive

cord.

from
here

found

fitted

like

be

to

delicate

gigantic features, the

you

strangely,

words

look

can

dim

to

be

reversed

for

seemed

hundreds

of

search

to

could

they
seemed
this

of

foot

the

Lantern.

glimpse

the

upon

the

as

of

of

such

the
is to

we

dizzy, reeling
maddening,

octagonal-shaped

it

idea

of

room,
HI

and

of

leaping
about

this

gallery

dome,

but

over

from

From

the

I could

ere

these

sees

inside

vacancy

had

eye

though
yet

it

some

the

and

of
at

it, called

surmounts

could

be

sand
thou-

were

area.

another

and,

here

specks

one

whole

that

gallery

marble,

neck

horrible

abyss

an

of

diminutive

conical-shaped

is almost

than

objects below,

below, yet

pavement

top

this

of

shewed

There

very

The

below.

suggest
little

the

what

then

glance

mountain

hundred.

ascent

at

For

wonder

least, must

at

the

From

plunges,

of

upon

oh,

gaze

of

from

four

portion

stage

next

the

is

; but

first

appearance

field

circumference,

smaller

soon

across

but

position
the

height,

down

itself

fix

limbs

greatness

steadier

distinctly recognised

moving

point,

eye

and

be

the

the

on

the

coarsely

glare

to

steadily

more

which

huge

fascinated

yet

but

with

down

pictures, are

marble,

and

space

at

was

to

of

gallery

faces,

seem

like

grandeur.

as

looking

people

for

of

judge by

of

I looked
It

deception

like

than

feet

Yet

and

and

while

looked

indistinctness,

to

more

and

now.

beauty
the

I believe

genii

shuddering,

of

and

of

one

the

side

of

depicted

round

opposite

cubes

and

pain

gulf,

softly-shaded

large

forms

over,

scene

think

space

of

very

leant

and

even

of

the

describe

can

that

like
I

moment

one

and

roughly coloured,

and

dim

figures, forms,

composed
and

together

the

on

of

one

vast

ran

mosaic

The

almost

across

balustrade

look

below

became

looked

177

SKY.

ITALIAN

sensation

We

the

slender

the

AX

cast

into

hasty

one

which

the

imagine, might
!

fourteen

The
feet

Lantern
wide

at

178

ART

the
wooden

ladder

which

above

ine.

inside

of

power

there

the
Lantern
the

and

world

shew

to

that

its

the

the

refreshing,

chain

picturesque
of

portion
of

scene

Nearer,

which

is

classic

to

tell,in

the

wanderer
fallen

me

he

as

mighty

to
!

one

feet, lies spread

the

and

and

impressive

shew

it,

They

say
;

but

the
that
as

look

then,

city

itself

vanity
to

well

book

of

earth,

moralize

might

on

one

in

strange

attempt

every

the

it

to

wears,

sad

moral

every
of

but

is read

printed
that

is
to

trite
read

ever

eloquently

truly,

any

the

genius.

where

she

wherein

Kome

but
varied

literally beneath

all

to

history,

would

Kome

and

the

save

immortal

the

her,

and

side, stretches

face

than

characters

stirring

view,

world's

every

the

not

in

"

of

stretched

"

"

the

some

distant

moment

herself

upon

And

of

horizon,

Campagna,

Nature

memorials

remnants

more

melancholy

comes

outside

challenge

bounds

on

of

joying
en-

thoughts

well

haunt

miles

though

past,

was

long

Mediterranean,

of

mournfulness

calm

the

the

the

solemn

mountains

or

and

but

as

for

of

the

part of the

eveiy

landmark

miles

softly undulating,
seems

of

fable,

for

but

may

sparkle

"

and

future,

catches

eye

blue

in

In

equal.

where

south,

of

present,

the

one.

which,

but

to

metal,

surpassed, indeed, by

associations

the

of

be

may

into

owing

stood

encircles

picturesque,

and
of

which

an

space

heated

We

again.

gallery

and

shadows

undefined

the

the

striking objects

down

way

of

but

for

even

by

ball,

feet

of

little

on

the

people,

air

is

then

several

smell

stifling

wholesome

my

memories

in

with

side

of

rod

or

dozen

the

of

beautiful

mere

interest,

hold

view

;
"

in

easily

from

view

and

stalk

and

find

scrambled,

upright,

sun,

to

one

narrow

enough

not

was

we

On

top.

stood

would
the

glad speedily

the

and

stepped
It

the

the

to

which

staircase,up

iron

the

tapering

and

bottom,

NATURE

AND

one's
Home's

in

plainer
could

page

rests

and
some

the

upon

it !

place
common-

tale

of

180

AND

ART

of

victims

fitting
beasts,

NATURE

the

furnish

to

for

chosen

citizens

according
the

the

the

own

of

inhabitants

the

in

earth

weak

that

not,

of

things
things

are

to

of

bring

to

The

Lord

of

heaven,

hath

He

wild

her

doeth

and

chosen

the

the

the

world

world

hath

despised

and

regale

to

armies

the

of

ferocity

"

truly,

Yes,

among

foolish

the
or

spectacle

SKY,

ITALIAN

fire,

arena

will

His

to

AN

cross,

holidays

on

CTDER

nought

confound

to

to

God

things

confound

chosen,
that

the

the

yea,

arc"

strong
and

wise,

things

and

the

things

and

that
are

BURYING-GROUND.

PROTESTANT

THE

April

called

ai"v

take

to

Burying-Ground.

imperishable

most

the

sheltered

nook

hill

fall

flowers

fill

China-rose

the

to

gate

of

feeling

of

our

some

upper

end,

such

sadness

who

one

own

has

familiar

associations

the

in

that

to

of

to

sweet

that

may

sunbeams

of

at

leaving

the

in

truly
least

one

soften

as

feels

the

lovely

it

me

gave
is.

remains

far

the

want

pang.

There

land,

the

and

sweet

earthly

foreign

tall

from

It

spot

us,

countless

something

this

see

monuments

desolation.

of

wards
to-

and

of

has

little

looking

marble

growth
around

thought

homes,

is

leads

the

luxuriant

nothing

life

made

It

many

pleasure
the

antiquity,

avenue

overhead,

the

of

and

slopes,
An

of

of

one

The

perfume.

stillness

but

melancholy

its

arching

The

it,

with

and

by

in

soothing

and

is

almost

shrubs.

fragrant

air

trees,

hidden

half

are

the

Testaccio.

upon

Aventine

Mount

Monte

bright

and

warm

to

declivity

gentle

little

spot,

Cestus.

between

called

close

Cams

on

Rome,

lovely

monuments

of

pyramid

is

and

walls,

the

beyond

small

It

Protestant

the

to

me

3.

from

of

Here,

L82

I felt that
about

such

each
in

even

separate

the

I read

of

many

lily,with

the

the

riding

her

waters

horse

with

her

some

months

is

river

of

Tiber, by

the

ground

We

sat

the

of

"

his

Thy

footsteps
like
of

light

A
And

an

flowers

fire

Pavilioning

the

dust

This

refuge

for

his

Like

flame

field

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is

spread

pitched,

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him

on

"

heaven's

in

we

lose,

snlilime,

plann'd

who
doth

marble

which

stand

scarce

beneath,

and
band

newer

smile,
with

Time

brand.

wedge

memory,
to

which

on

their

camp

of

death,

extinguished

of

are

breath.

in

part

wrote

"

spread

was

drowned

dead

dull

fell

grave

that

upper

is

it

tins

himself

Keats

Tiber,

and

Shelley

graves

While

swollen,

is

the

poet

her

backing,

also

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of

the

and

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In

the

hoary

of him

transformed

idol

Near

was

the

along

with

pyramid

and

access,

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round,

upon

"ed

of

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green

smile,

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slow

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lead

of

slope

;i

walls

like

shall

fate

large

brother-poet,

spot

to

the

in

instantly,

English

our

English
erected

and

boat.

read

laughing

gray

And

of

and

the

spirit of

s,

broken

spirits.

interest.

with

marble

young

banks

found

was

of

friend

The

Where,

the

and

here,

the

sank

body

regarded

ashes

life and

unusually

She

upsetting

the

down

death

sad

unmanageable,

her

friends

our

time

the

pride

of

on

is

monument

the

was

friends

into

which

look
friends

their

one

it of

whose

girl, full

became

the

the

She

On

the

Bathurst,"

suddenly

another

brother

sought

at

two, with

beautiful.

for

before

eared-fur

remembering

or

of

the

one

beneath

amiable

were

is

of

told

inscribed

party

that

slab.

lovely,

There

case.

simply

Rosa

marble

with

whose

"

of

the

land.

very

name

remembrance

be

NATURE

epitaphs

buried.

girl lately

family,

the

are

AND

grave

stranger's

monuments,

upon

might

ART

of

laid.
on

UNDER

Here

The

To

have

Its

charge

"

with

graves

are

all

too

which

sorrow

183

SKY.

yet

as

young

consign 'd

each."

to

in

Miss

ITALIAN

the

outgrown

shone

day

when,

These

pause.

AN

all the

and

heat

and

brightness
M

of

off

set

we

in

one

June,

on

long

drive

first

going

and

dedicated

Marcellus.
the

to

Her

pile, though

The

gigantic

walls

perhaps

the
of

power

though

in

stoppage

vineyard

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Way.
with

dei

cro'

the

was

at

far

from
the

at

the

of

Tomb
the

the

the

marking

history

which

It

of

this

adorned,
the

famous
funereal

Gate,
the

was

of

ground,

"

and

be

to

of
kind

Our

seen,

noble

race,

the

of

splendour

drama
to

of
his

the

on

life

them
which
was

fathers.

this

closed,

"
"

and

fine

here,

are

spot

on

quiet

then
very

Sepol-

inscriptions,

which

scenes

and

portico

virtues

high-souled

many

of

buried

that

in

muse

stirring

many

some

to

family

the

Appian

dress, lighted

The

interior.

the
of

pleasing

of

gathered

into

This

guide,

picturesque

most

the

inscription

Tomb.

the

members

is

and
the

in

way

and

lives

pomp
when

the

different

quite legible.

the

Scipios.

beginning

reading

entered

girl

Italian
led

of

wealth

Coliseum,

Antique

after

and

Scipioni,"

and

Orsiui

labyrinth
of

of

the

the

Palace

acres

monument

enormous

of

perfect

added

ground-story.

the

several

except

an

"

tapers,

great

out

seats,

dark-eyed

the

not

got

stone

are

young

proportionally interesting.

means

third

Our

Rome,

the

beyond

ruins

stupendous

most

no

just

the
"

still

gustus,
Au-

by

portico,

vicinity

occupy

arches, covering

and

ancient

by

the

by

is

It

built

son,

magnificent

which

These

next.

came

Octavia's

shelter.

disfigured

Caracalla,

of

to

of

place

Marcellus,

of

sister

gave

dirty shops

Baths

Caesars,

is

as

the

his

he

greatly

and

Theatre

to

name

Theatre,

palace,

the

to

rendered

to

place
the

recall
has

body

the
nessed
wit-

of

the

1X4

ART

We
of

next

went

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like

the

holes

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about

oblong

said

to

and

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colours

hence

From

blocks

huge

both
white

marble.

nothing

give
of

lady

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of

the

tomb, by
"

lines

those

What

was

What

treasure

But

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who

Tomh'd
Whither
Thus
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tower

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in

wealthiest

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Roman's

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frieze

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the

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died

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wife.

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cave

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tion
imagina-

interest

woman's

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know,

death

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dead,

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stray

life

"

Within

hid

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lady

the

yet greater

so

cornice
lias-reliefs

caught

Harold

locked,

and

greatest

Metellse, is legible, but

either

strength?

the

with

mystery

Childe

with

Cecilia
formed

strength,

together

The

of

Tomb

and

ornamented

conjecture

would
much

so

palace ?

fitted

thrown

of

and

It is

The

and

size

This

has

niches

Circus

the

to

311.

is

view

immense

dead.'"'

the

discovered.

smooth,

good

insight

who

poet,

wall

inscription, Cecilia?

the

sepulchral

eye.

former

any

is

saw

Augustus

us

sixty feet,

cement.

the

The

to

the

of

without

rich,

very

of

travertine,

of

and

precision,

date

it, forms

tower

the

outer

to

had

we

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Metella.

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enamel

pleasing

most

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remarkably

is

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flowers

bright

The

the

Arabesques.

brought

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we

of

of

that

bears

fifty.

each

with

minutes

one

these

time

niches,

placed

were

of

Tomb

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little

The

above

painted

hundred

turf

the

Inside,

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space,

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dead.

the

to

of

rows

specimen

perfect

most

fifteen

be

is

ten

"

vast

in

the

of

belonged

the

Romulus,

the

inscriptions

interior

of

drive

from

good

the

The

Tiberius.

ashes

very

have

to

called

so

far from

not

pigeon-house,

and

it

prove

this

is

the

be

to

monuments,

of

It

held

supposed

of

NATURE

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to

Scipios.

AND

pride."

the

UNDEK

this

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to

with

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ilex,

all

between

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grassy

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of

of

ivy

of

their

the

and

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graceful

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from

tall

with

gushing

fountain,

sunbeams

deeper
genius

lay

the

place

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we

out

wild
took
from

wert

flowers
trod
the

upon
rich

thou

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surpass

the

art

or

"

anything

heritage:

upon

its

now

the

ing
flickermoment

in, reclining

still

poet

early

remaining,

say

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the

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wert,

thought,

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of

and

;
as

farther

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fell

play

to

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in

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figure

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than

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the

lavish

small-leafed

stole

anon

refreshing grotto,

shadow,
of

and

festoons

nymph
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to

diamond

bright

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cultivated

breeze,

spray

the

the

ideal

that

dewy

the

more

ever

cool

the

beneath

became

green

this

in

gemmed

quivered

emerald

fresh

so

these

more

in

interest

such

bequeathed

the

of

story

path

of

the

by
seem

the

the

Mount."

than

before

bend

The

one

hidden

this,

shade
to

else.

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like

the

all

"

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almost

spot

other

each

of

riant
luxu-

contrast

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to

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it

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flowers

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in

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sionally
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the

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striking

itself

base

loveliness

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poetic

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gracefully

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summer

sweetest

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and

and

the

other

garden.
to

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to

hills

brought

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smooth
grove,

the

of

branches

singular

the

drive

pleasant

one

"

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whose

which

ruins

of

manner.

formed

laughing

Egeria,

L85

SKY.

ITALIAN

Campagna,

surface

trees

and

ground,

the
of

The

picturesque

most

of

Fountain

imaginable.

of

side

AN

their

creation."

sweet

ever

deep

mignonette

saw.

blue

mingled

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eyes
its

step

peeping
refined

isr,

ART

sweetness

with

its

purity

snowy

the

bright,

the

cicada"

as

From

The

this

in

it

the

"

the

church,

rising

reached

we

the

and

wafted

It

the

was

beautiful

yet

falling

the

on

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chimes

ear,

"

breeze

singing

circling

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touching

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out

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tains.
moun-

hangs

gates

rung

as

admiration

that

beauty

seemed

Ere

and

of

its

expanse

Maria,"

Ave

upon

pipe

with

with

haze

pensive

hour.

evening

shrill

again

Campagna

melancholy

and

that

and

looked

we

on

soft

wide

was

ground

wearies

never

The

perched

or

clear

gay

wing.

on

grass,

with

so

past.

we

higher

the

that

tree,

the

flowers

the

shady

some

quickness

the

butterflies

among

wandered

welcome

us

them

concealed

of

branch

think

to

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might

crimson

with

darting

of

anemones

deepest

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everywhere

thither
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variety

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of

Star

endless

brightest

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in

SKY.

ITALIAN

orchis

the

"

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fragrance

hither

thought

UNDER

delicate

most

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their

from

line,

every

NATURE

AND

the

from

gentle

city,

every

night-

them.

fitting
both

close

in

to

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day
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full
so

in

Art.

of

the

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of

188

The
is

AND

ART

truly

beautiful

finished

Highly

of
estimated
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side

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the
Of

the

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both

in

the

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in

yet
pletely
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might

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face

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them,
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Church
the

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in

in

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columns,

tradition

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with
A

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are

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pillar
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cen-

ornaments

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Divine

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broken
have

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sympathy.

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old

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cloisters,which

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position

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satisfying.

doubt,

earthly

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to

all

touching

interest

beautiful.

and

of

It

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Bernini's

unutterably
of

Lord.

Peter's, although

think

cannot

the

of

treatment

no

far

consists
our

at

in

wTas

out

marble

are

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St.

of

it

is cut

group
and

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features,

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the

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phagus,
sarco-

Pantheon.

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grace

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workmanship,

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"

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Angelo,

respect

consolation

out,

and

the

niches,

marble,

the

of

from

The

dead

the

this

Virgin's

upon

be

porphyry

that

below,

disappointed

admired.

in

the

over

of

Michael

subject by

while

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magnificence

simple

purest

expression

form

exceedingly

even

"

parency
trans-

which

whole,

taken

sculpture.

very

bending

inanimate

was

its

vaulted

only representation

the

cost

celebrated

placed

are

from

Virgin Mary

in

the

wanting

the

XII.,

particularly,

gloomy

single

is

Chapel

interesting piece

the

description

not

much

so

Clement

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figures

me

little

most

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every

their

are

and

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with

it

most

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pleased
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of

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On

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taste

the

prevents

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precious

gems,

exquisite

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that

marble

of

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nave

of

collection

superl)

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ornament

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NATURE

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UNDER

and

Jerusalem,
Temple

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portico,

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stairs

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for

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in

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of

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Lord,

our

taken

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with

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porphyry

this

In

11, 1347

badges
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in

the

foot

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newed.
re-

however
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Son

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Basilica

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God

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ami
crowns.

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contained

indeed
the

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rite
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age

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Rienzi

night

knighthood,

symbolical

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Santa,"

Luke,

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of

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recall,

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at

Baptistery

Vatican)

to

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poor

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when

immense
the

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are

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tioned
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and

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away

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far-famed

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ascending

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Saviour

tradition

actually

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is the

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veil

Basilica

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marble

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to
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SKY.

thus

judgment-hall.

upon

interest

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twain.

the

said,

tread

in

rent

consists

staircase

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have

to

ITALIAN

AN

of

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night

himself
in

to

of

with
Church

PICTURE

GALLERIES.

have

days

ome

systematic
v'~

must

own

enjoyments;

the

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fatiguing

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with

even

think

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it

is

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when

it

as

I
may,

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to

different

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must

heads,
is

enjoyment
how

see

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lections,
recol-

arrange

under

amount

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them

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it

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and

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historical

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pen,

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picture

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blank

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Raphael,
As

year.

pourtray,

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must

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to

them.

of

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those

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outline

with

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can

own

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love

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colours

Gallery

Borghese
I

first

least,

all
my

my

Raphael's

describe.

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with

even

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have

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what

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of

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painted
with

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Christ,"
by

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him

great

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when

artist,

AND

ART

which

on

Saviour

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sees

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him

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loved."
left

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Last

as

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is

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three

the

picture

which

have

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is

come

immediately
; yet

this

he

whom

she

tomb,"
his

less
life-

for

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much

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to

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Scarcely

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and

John,
of

together

loved,"
loving

that

defined.

Peter,

of

filling up

picture,

gathering

"

these
whom

the

two

for

much

had
of

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truthful

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different,

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after

pleasure

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time

same

Capitol,

more

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touching,
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eyes,

of
so

the

She

innocent.

"

wild,

so

as

lustrous

finer

of

I looked

two

same

yet

are

this

of

face

fairer.
"

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her

naming
the

younger,

into

I fancied
"

the

beauty
is

degree

In

bearing

one

The

different.

Capitol,

of

ture
Scrip-

same

kind.

another

speak

indeed

and

more

the

of

not

Sacred

the

like

anything

me

from

one

should

it

perhaps

taken

the

after

me,

that

subject

gave

though
at

fascinated

most

expressions strangely

their

her

must

in

name

In

in
all

as

adds

other

no

pleasure,

this, I

is

"

whole.
The

of

of

farewell

imagined

the

Jesus

whom

forgiven them,"

been

in

the

described

himself

Lord

our

in

grief

whilst

disciple

the

"

him

intense

Magdalene,

Mary

near

that

Jesus
falls

and

painter

with

is the

touching

less

the

along

go

stood

the

now

of

sorrow,

natural

so

by

story

but

cannot

own

body

Lord.

her

sacred

the

her

lifeless

his

at

But

mother

the

She

disciple

earliest

remained.

away,

to

way

the

to

and

cross

life

borne

as

There

the

while

is

her

anguish.

had

received

objects

first

his

She

and

agony,

bequeathed
at

him

body
time

He

as

care

the

mother's

tomb."

new

dying

of

one

sepulchre,

"

191

SKY.

irresistibly appealed

are

the

the

to

the

in

his

through

tender

borne

laid

be

to

is

dwells,

mind

the

ITALIAN

Perhaps

passions depicted.

the

by

AN

sympathies

spectators' personal

the
to

UNDER

NATURE

depths
in

the

cave

of

192

ART

which

boars

mystic

jewels, lier

whilst

her

But

beauty,

her

that

picture

dwell
of

garish light
There
the

is

by Titian,

in

shoulder.

and

why

the

fishes

the

distance.

those

equanimity.

it is

it

other

:" to

her

liness,
loneIt
in

not

were

not

it

is
the

so

such

to

here,

of

presentation
re-

well,

the

over

"

St.

thony
An-

"

mortal,

him.

of

vice

with
at

smile
in

the

great

It

versa

Meanwhile

saint's

the

respectful

picture

subject

perched

around

keep

excite

is

other

positively ludicrous.

marvellous

glorious creations,

The

drapery

instead

such

dignity

side

impressed

with

that

the

is

to

colour-

allegorical

and

inclined

artist.

it is

sky,

by

an

looking

designed

discussing

on

the

above

the

Master.

there

much

patience

of

red
of

passed

;"

devoid

this

me

the

occasion

rather
no

is

with

picture

in

Diana

of

worthy

sky

wholly

Love,"

other

green

an

seem

people gravely
with

have

forgive

Profane

Fishes

evidently

and

it

commonplace

not, upon

eloquence,

in

night,

be

figures sitting

reflected

sea

whole,

the

the

with

are

with

seeks

superstition.

not

Chase

noted

to

must

distinguish

female

most

rock,

like

white,

preaching
saint,

she

though

she

solemn

The

and

another

yet

as

colouring

In

And

could

"

Sacred
two

looks

which

usually

"

clothed

childlike

as

sublimity

vain

still and

the

others

which

purity

is

but

fond

stars,

methinks

There

Cumean

the

day.

brilliant, but

and

upon

in

by Domenichino,

iii"- is

The

her

of

she

as

almost

her

the

truth

is

gaze.

in

on

two

are

one

one

It

youth,

to

girl, with

brow;

cavern,

Sybil

her

on

white

high

vaulted

is the

questioning

seem

content.

her

that

she

timid

thoughtful

earnest

in
a

fair

this

eyes

yet

not

were

for

Yes

flashing

her

robes,

through

oracles.

torches

of

light

tinted

many

echoed

her

Cave.

the

name,

voice

forth

gave

her

NATURE

AND

as

this.

but

same

trial

to

I
see

room

of

my

UNDER

I have
of

cabinet,

my

for
to

be

for

there

is

yet

is most

of

tint

the

despair

from

its

rich

those

lustreless

sad

its

one

pathos

and

can

the

Beatrice

possessing peculiar

attraction

The

and

charm

noble

which

with

Roman,

was

with

veneration

of the
On
wrote

the
very

the
to

Last

the

I
of

for

Sciarra,

the

choice

pictures,

but

striking
There

is,

hair

partially

has
not

folds

faded

yet

with

strongly
It

of

pen

this

is

dening
sad-

standing
notwith-

on,

so

turned

to

Bulwer
to

of
has

increase
this

; at

room

more

viz.,one

me,

contemplated

for

hour

yet

Cenci.

any

beside
a

the

portrait

Cola

Rienzi.

invested
the

this

kind

authentic

of

sentation
repre-

Tribunes.
of

of another

Palazzo

of

the

dwell

in

looks

needed

scarce

which

morning
fix

the

Fornarina
and

coarse,

delicate

refined

its effect

its interest.

admire

rate, it is somewhat

designed

attire,in

more

to

which

if

more

no

would

mouth

more

has

the

wish

no

expected.

Avhich

likely

gentleness,

even

her

weep

I had

of

there

not

despair,

of her

contrasts

which

and

is

which

gleam

is

the

Moreover,

though

and

whole

is

the

have

from

golden

eyes

round

lot, which

in the

drapery

much

not

need

loveliness.

expression

an

of

beauty

mere

respect

might

one

tresses, only

picture,

this

proceed

one

it

seen

its

and

others,

Little

shading

is

her

to

the

while

possessing

of confinement

There

white

escaped,

as

surpassing

it in

carelessness

heavy

all

of

niches

Borghese

by

once

not

the

look

wan

blank

I did

in

from

more

utter

an

of

one

submission

the

too,

not

successful.

patient
than

is

the

pourtray

yet it is

and

greenish

detracts
to

it

the

Guido.

face, since

that

on

forgotten

speak,

of

in

"

dwell

to

me

famed

Cenci

the

time

pass

Berberini,

of Kome

marvels

long

too

therefore

and

Palazzo

the

to

almost

spent

L93

SKY.

ITALIAN

AN

our

calling

small

sight-seeing days,
with

to

gallery, containing
few

very
N

inferior

ones.

take
not

Many

us

to

only
of

194

them

well

are

their

doubt

that

artistic
a

Vanity,"
her

over

half

holds

is

just
her

attracted

me

splendid
from,
have
the

though

styles.

another

lovely
female

tale

one's

hand

the

soft

This

face,

over

pictures

the

strongly

collar

it ; but

there

of

is

disagreeable by

to

draw

very

no

is

face

which

she

the

to

as

cloak
in

or

Guido,

Player,

The

it is

and
to

weave

to

tempts
it.

their

Guide's

Violin

moral

of

off

set

of

detail,

any

in

perfect

so

Magdalen

poetry

is

Leonardo

seem

are

velvet

and
next

"

that

sort

of

picture

faithfulness

to

its

subject.

cheating," by Caravaggio,
is made

of

The

the

lovely

Titian

defined.

either

finished,

character

need

to

with

especially

somehow

to

fied
digni-

and

the

peculiar

known

former,

conceived, differing

that

of the

said

be

with

well

be

Vinci,

beckons

attired,
with

other, they

may

which
fur

the

spirit

and

She

figures
can

surpassing,

each

noble

magnificent

female
as

the

wonderfully
A

colouring

of

too

its

da

looking-glass

small

rich.

These

from

picture
:

of

gaily

the

the

beauty
is

by Raphael,

into

figures

expression.

is all most

of

beauties

not

Leonardo

of

self-satisfied

in

scarcely

different

not

no

ings
engrav-

enters

half

you,

half

It

noticed.

several

of

fronting

one

piece

just

ideal

in

is

appreciating

particularly

open

peculiarly
:

in

also

female

clear

hand.

colouring

he

hut

has

reflected

seen

with

art

cultivated

two

mischievous,

in

the

there

easily given

more

from

produced

Moreover,

picture

head,
a

who

sister,

has

are

marvellous

profile, with

she

heen

to

heart.

own

my

and

veil

smile

have

done

justice

more

case.

painting,

that

is

Modesty

her

that

and

correct

of

after

Here

had

visiting galleries of

taste

beauty

way

with

have

the

pictures

some

NATURE

others.

his

is

copies

generally

enjoy greatly

only

in

the

is

but
than

in

than

and

known,

merits

them,

"

A.ND

AliT

pass
blers
Gam-

which

196

defile,

lonely
its

the

eyrie,

trable

and

have

with

its

an

awe

hermit,

had
a

living

or

sympathy

with

its

of

Salvator

robbers'

at

Kosa's

loneliness

with

landscapes,

and

desolation,

stern

bandits,

he

Truly
is

and

once

introduces

generally

that

impene-

eaves

traveller.

all

round

deep

you

at

he

wandering

the

before

puts

as

whirling

or

glades,

impression

SKY.

eagle

elements,

looking

especially

of

of

he

In

nature.

the

mysterious

These

ITALIAN

AN

torrent,

strife

and

always

almost

or

rushing

the

recesses.

power

UNDER

NATURE

tear

forest,

hidden

AND

AKT

and

must

wild.

have

VESPERS.

had

have

while

quite
mind

think

do

there

as

todes

closed

and

with

that

is,

to

an

got

the

principal

minutes

the

were

to

wait

ecclesiastics

entered

waiting

here,
with

while

whom

had

of

pressing
for

rather

not

friend

she

to

would

at

coachman,
noticed.

from

gates

great

against
As

in

She

farthest

eagerly

sent

was

approach

previously
aisles

the

and,

late.

the

admittance.

my

agreed

performed,

The

Peter's.

and

closed,

usual

were

it

ing
accomplish-

Peter's

directed

one

St.

into

we

having

entrance

and

multitude

feared

and

small

entrance

itself

the

stood

is

cus-

certain

We

St.

at

every

service

thronged,

me,

here,

out

chapel

of

at

up

evening

the

which

reassured

drew

We

he

hour

early

smilingly
he

in

side-chapel,

this

on

of

sure

Vespers

the

hut

not,

to

of

even

occasions.

these

cicerone

contrives

harriers

know

it.

record

she

always

am

on

to

that

knowing
the

wish

together

go

her

what

doors,

will

such

How

the

through

was

and

to-day,

it,

never

penetrate

of

full

is

my

adventure

an

her

acquainted,

Ave

of

the

them,

had

card

to

turned

few

one

1','S

ART

from

the

altar.

in

tins

part

and

confusion

away

high

reigned

bustle

the

voice

whose

diie

of

fell

of

the

on

glance

the

had

with

them

There

is,to

only

unlock

to

power

thence

the

these

neither

of

immediately
meeting
mutual

this

pleasure

Meanwhile,

we

renewal

whom

But

past.

on

almost
for

hour

an

with

intercourse.

our

answered

been
had

forth

anticipating

had

been

made

beautifully,

not

bring

came

of

it

such

has

presence

parted,

application
to

in

valued

hastily fixing

day,

Italian

speaks

who

and

Monsignore

the

by

person,

linger

be

the

of

shared

had

and

of

met,

hours

enjoyment

very

"

her

up
we

more

may

enough,

who

memory,

to

unexpected

friend's

my

of

me,

following

the

who
whose

but

time

now

recall

to

on

had

us

peculiar

at

saw

bygone

once

tall

looking

since

"

associations

endeared

scenes

and

away

both

us

one

chambers

"

was

friends,

and

friend,

the

from

to

with

meeting

personal

as

word

actually present

intense

an

me,

familiar

observed

One

"

all

denly
sud-

pleasant

stood,

mutual

dear

it with

distinguished

passed

familiar

that

recognition lighted

had

years

once

seemed

us,

unlooked-for

an

long

gaiety

light-hearted

of

smile

solitude

yet

they

deceived.

bright

objects

of

arm

the

left, when

and

round,

where

to

heen

not

though

and

scenes

advanced

and

the

I had

hours

sunny

towards

contrasting

unheard,

looking

on

and

and

which

long

"

Eagerly

hastily

"Augusta!"
face

ear

my

graceful figure leaning

man.

that

in

silence

edifice,

vast

alone

on

the

on

recalled

days

sauntered

musing

tune

earlier

and

crowd,
was

NATURE

AND

in

addressed.
known

our

desire

and,

to

as

soon

requested
the
we

square
were

secure

as

us

to

favourable
had

been

pillars

standing,

in
so

the

side

enjoying

introduced,

him.

follow

for

place

He
of

unexpectedly

opened

the

me,

Monsignore
a

building,
to

music

the

that

in

door
close
I

was

to

one

where
almost

of

AN

UNDER

startled.
discovered

and

of

recollections

rising
through

Here

enough

call

to

for

After

well
the

best

very

that

also, though
remained

We
arrival

thrown

indeed,

Cardinals

in

and

the

open

on

with

beyond

me

our

that
which
filled
In

the

chapel

one

of

the

around

looked

from

distance

her

been

drank

in

for

seeing

occasion.
the

the

before

of

It

lasted

sitting

standing,

or

melodious
of

clouds

not

Little

service.

the

was,

congratulate

feeling

the

doors

in.

to

this

as

in

seated

this

reason

white

the

amid

so

sounds,
that

incense

which

pauses

whom

and

me,

in

me,

lovely

I had

have

floated

long

ere

where

notes

surprise,

rushed

Yet

few

first

could

ears

my

the

cared

I have

should

had

we

service

the

hour, watching

an

crowd

eager

fortune.

good

ourselves

half

inner

add

canonicals,

full

and

rush,

terrible

of

the

of

on

consequence

upwards

here

the

of

of little

was

cials
offihim.

for

I may

and

the

ourselves

found

long-

follow
at

degree

some

hearing,

for

position

to

us

chamber.
ante-

not

of

One

ourselves

shortly

we

but

patience.

small

preparations

with

was

to

the

many

with

moments,

found

we

with

us,

I followed

desired

where

satisfaction, that

as

were

It

made.

being

were

of
and

passage,

chapel,

the

to

few

exercise

any

dark

another

entrance

for

of

part

upon

leading

passage

approached,

presently

closed

tales,

mysterious

waited

we

completely

so

have

could

scrutiny

minutest

noiselessly

vaulted

narrow

it

as

the

199

SKY.

it seemed

opening,

any

pillar

stone

think

scarcely

ITALIAN

the

face

very

paler

should

midst

of

than

for

occurred,
see

the
with

ever

first

the

standing

at

crowd,

but

time
some

dear

fatigue

mingled

and

place
the
this

emotion.
for

crowd,

an

instantly

instant,
I insisted

arrangement

and
on

whispered
edging

completed,

myself

taking
ere

to

once

my

keep

to

by degrees

again

through

Scarcely

seat.
we

were

my

was

each

Ill lit

ART

absorbed
seemed
and

sweeping
And

sound.
it

the

music

and

it

seemed
it

free, clear,
the

beyond

spirit

very

its

was

Never

and

scarcely

and

when

of those

thronged
contrast

looking

old

by

her

one,

spite

strength

His

too.

of

poverty.
once

he

the

on

Indeed

observed

him,

resumed,

which

other
of

other

had

no

and
that

already

so

of

less

upon

brighter
it

was

enchained

but
a

face

be

of

when
own

feeble

girl
noble
sorrow

in

than

the

its
of

that

doubt
After

days.

was

young

care

and

my

his

bare, yet

decent

only

in

venerable

was

might

him

and

He

not

almost

and

look

it

persons

snow.

His

in

crowded

place,

leaned,

and

time,

could

noticed

as

he

side.

faded

spoke

none

known

which

expected,

awakened

by

insufficient,had

though

neatness,

had

the

white

as

on

it

ravages

apparel,

scrupulous

staff

found

have

lent

hair

with

around

were

standing

sorbed
ab-

so

densely

attracted

was

beautiful,

fashionable

and

every
I

them,

to

partly supported

and

the

choir.

time

strongly

in

me

thus

the

little

so,

the

and

most

who

did
so

well-dressed
seat

man,

would

be

to

was

in

tin's

those

at

away

silvery notes

voices

all

casually

the

was

wild,

"

like

alone,

again

been

glanced

many

every

striking

limbs

have

floated

was

wliich

"

one

cany

it

other

had

pressed against

the

Amid

spot.
who

who

all

interest

my

then

of that

tone

length

at

certainly, that
one

above

to

and

beautiful.

were

as

me

greatest

it

soft

Now

Again

to

there

Sometimes

place.

I lose

and

earth,

distinct

did

all

of

even

once

where

the

seeming

of

dreams

as

echo.

sweet

own

high,

on

confines

power

clear

rose

soared

of

its

hut

soul

veiy

forth.

shadow

spheres might

with

filled

my

such

ever

came

were

reached

voice

"

the

of

low,

single voice,

one

was

arch

and
that

this

not

was

which

bursts

full

till aisle

along,

it

yet

the

self
it-

building

mighty

The

melody.

with

tremble

to

anon

No

witching

the

in

NATURE

AND

first
voice

attention,

UNDER

that

ho

hands.

the

again
ever

press

which
I

the

breathed
that

life

cheeks

of

labour

and

the

slight figure
leaned

eagerly
thus
he

she

his

fixed

too

unconsciously
the

I not

the

this

more

once

"

space

Yet

around
calm

and

As

of

music

as

incident

its

still,kindled

wafted

watched

the
it

voice

were

by

the

of

tales

had
tion
affec-

portions
to

forth.

But

thrilling
the

glow

now

so

of

of
the

colouring

but

all

cheeks.

through

face,

and

tender

called

that

echoes

as

and

face

tears,

furrowed

and

girl

look

big

intermediate

had

was

the

deep

impulse

gave

more

the

the

man,

touching

many

such

to

old

tall

pale

what

his

down

Once,

caused

the

on

of
not

was

gallery,

And

gazed,

how

any

once

he

rolled

moments,

were

and

form.

tale

it

"

faded

both.

the

to

man,

told

singers
the

thus

the

that

of

something

whether

aged

repose

the

and

that

affected

front

same

seemed,

unexpected

came.

heart

the

of

him

colour

discovered

in

srirl,

gentle

for

this

looking intently

the

heard

the

with
in

the

fitting adjuncts

scarcely

thoughts

and

that

few

next

service, only

change

it

of

tinged

position
to

on

was

as

woven,
!

the

chapel

sweetness

powerfully

whispered

affection

During

thus

nearer

eyes

and

frame

I marvelled

frame

and

long

forward,

revealed,

devoted

and

stand

to

feeble

the

care

voice.

countenance

which
in

anxious

that

heard.

as

and

man,

power

Ere

change

some

that

eyes,

girl,whose

music

her

in

the

the

sorrow.

the

when

between

into
to

old

of

endeavoured

of

well

as

seen,

trembling

whole

he

eagerly

else, his

tone

his

ear,

portion

the

unrivalled

even

light

gave

alone

its

be

in

interest

indeed

was

and

his

faintest

the

on

all

upon

and

narrow

could

divided

intense

same

the

interested

appeared

first

fell

to

beautiful

bowed

energy,

choir

much

was

who

the

how

the

and

201

SKY.

head

sweetness

nearer

alone

his

moment

life

to

ITALIAN

matter

and

surpassing

awoke
to

No

closed,
But

of

one

it

moved.

was

seemed

ear

AN

every
vast

pale

thought

202

A.RT

which

filled each

look

of

the

old
it

sympathy,
on

voice
the

melted
tall

him

elosc

within
he

the

my

the

efface

the

since
the

this

ahout

mental

than
The
in

while

from

tale

any
father

lived

son

to

them

had

and

the

have

brought

ruin

their

all, and

were

knew

none

whence

no

had

sooner

taken

to

their

being
were

his

of

of

on

feared

to

should

But

have

that

proves

ing
affect-

deeply

their

and

helpless

all

and

were

noble-looking
received

into

preparatory
among

that

gone

youth
the

exercises
chosen

evil

which

sung

hour,
often

so

lost

concerned, they

sight

nor

could

sought
of

St.

the

on

lost

who

choir

he

an

neglected

acquaintances

voice

doubtless

had

! in

outbreaks

His

and

home,

had

family,

sister.

alas

But,

on

united

pride,

fair

own

children

two

and

and

delight

political

they

place

his

father

Italy.

cast

his

me!"

touch

more

happy

desolation

and

whither
the

in

those

Former

came

previous

idol

airs

of

seemed

per

almost

which

be

may

with

and

were

eve,

one

pitiless world.

life

real

as

lingered

both.

one

hand

fiction.

been

native

during

of

of

it is

his

jinito

rude

some

drawn

story ; and

the

moonlit

I had

They

was

lest

beheld

sigh

words

now

son,

well-born,

was

infancy
many

of

luxury.

the

on

real

pathos

and

poetry

and

picture

their

learned

even

and

murmur,

The

and

man

whilst
u

was

"

him

heart,

it

hushed

placing

sadly spoken

them

father

old

heard

place,
of his

those

hear

to

the

that

looked.

was

then

girl,

depths

tell how

and

young

from
very

seem

"

inquire

the

of

the

fixed

responsive

tell

thus

whisper
to

moment,

with

to

he

son

I turned

withdrew

from

ear,

for

eyes

only

the

again

lighted

last, softest

gone.

caught

imagination

an

the

was

scarcely

can

he

"

arm

slowly

vivid

and

were

eyes

no

might

away,

his

breathed
I

needed

figure

uttered,

whose

man,

it

loved,

he

note

NATURE

AND

of

them

any

Peter's.

than

tell

instruction

completed,
band,

cold

his

But
and

he

exqui-

THE

CATACOMBS.

to

ccording

for

me,

day

one

friends

some

arrangement

an

the

obtained

the

until

usually,

which

within

foot

set

attaching
this

laid,

since

two

tomb.

opened
had

one

in

been

the

placed

sacred

only

instances,
Several

beside

various

at

times
we

them,

still

were

for

enter,

with

entombed

of

Catholics

tyrs,
mar-

suffered
are

the

course

in

interest

such
a

where

places

looked

the

with

had

they

the

into

we

red

to

remains

greater

saw

tion
por-

We

yet

the

Of

least,

and

great

relics

good

far

the

saw

discovered

as

precincts.

was

not

allowed

but

none

remains

these

to

but

removed,

been

we

burial-

removed.

been

designate

to

tholic
Ca-

these

consequently,

been

the

Koman

of

been

lately

not

and

supposed

are

have

to

bodies

the

Dr.

person,

one

which,

had

Scottish

visit

to

had

who

the

very

only

from

bodies

the

Protestants

only

them,

and

up,
of

had

which

with

influential

permission

places

opened

of

and

and

acquaintance

head

College,

Catacombs.

their

Through

Grant,

accompanied

the

to

made

kindly

very

little

what

phials
is

as

case

been

freshly
which

supposed.

those

by

the

I am,
of

cause

the

In
came

to

that

none

of

places

where

could
of

whose

the

whose

trial
chosen

that

the

either

in

of

be

alone

ruthless

to

thus

fury
four

or

these

with

whole

occasionally

once

earthly
was

the

it not
the

faith

where

rest

of

grave,
A

and
a

tears

and

very

pomp,

purchased
from

sting

at

Dr.

that

by
king

step

every

calling

Grant,

martyr's resting-place,
the

beyond

thoughts

beyond

the

even

palm-branch

expressive

renewed

pleasures,

evidenced

carried

scene.

thy

might
in

sign

of

the

tomb,

its

the

feel

not

inheritance

was

the
at

interests,

take

can

out

darkness

above

unless

three

covered

and

place,

the

power

name

look,

its

before

stopped

and

with

compared

friends

had

bitter

the

were

and

who

seen.

all

there

to

came

we

tomb,

from

clay

mortality,

and

very

the

even

and

the

into

those

of

passages.

penetrating

skulls

and

those

of

vaulted

advance,

we

purport

several,

little

very

the

with

side, entirely

earth

emblem

heaven

slain

received

narrow

Sometimes

such

last

learn

succession

himself

senseless

in

the

of

such

walls,

permission

thus

when

stand

and

sorrowing
and

times

him, pointed

gloom

bones

not

whose

guide

round
one

in

promises

terrors,

us

the

to

in

the

it, to

over

in

us

the

along

After

on

were

The

"

dead.

splendour,

Him

God

beyond

the

providing

persecutors.

nothingness
and

of

saints

way

of

awful

remains

skeletons
Who

Each

guide

secured

some

without

silence

there

mouldering

of

in

shelves

or

it.

were

relentless

tiers

the

of

of

likelihood

inscription

enter

the

the

concealed,

blood

an

something

buried

been

with

give

wax-taper,

abodes

the

vineyard,

to

to

was

the

205

SKY.

ITALIAN

determine

be

door

were

There

of

of

proceeded

we

AN

truth.

low

UNDEB

to

to

centre

authorized

long

able

better

than

point

NATURE

AND

ART

which
and

triumph

Was

was

it not
the

dimmed

strengthened,
is

now

their

fiery
the
that

eye,

into
por-

200

ART

tiun

of

think

to

NATURE

AM)

UNDER

them

there,

them

that

"

"

which

given

are

for

and

the

their

upon

Laml

for

"

Dr.

Grant

opened

directed

which

probably

when

the

they

those
the

sun

light."

amid

the

Dr.

Grant

It

legibly

engraved,

strange

either

at

the

spoke

in

Rome

upon
courage

the

was

time
!

tomb,
and

God,

of

and

gold
"

crying,

vation
Salthe

unto

"

Flavins

it

to

or

very

In

an

constancy

places,
then

emblem
to

words

shortly

many

own

this

and

to

that

where

light,

neither

God

doth

these

little

give

mind
re-

them

lamps,

and

affection

slab

sometimes

roughly,

was

but

carissimus."

Filius

read

no

of

marks
marble

one

"

"

it.

regard

ever

notice

to

of

one

when

Even

recesses,

Lord

it

laid,

comfort,

need

tomb,

were

there."

weep

they

each

them

to

of

formed

lighted

have

these

of

roughly

beside

gloomy

the

several

little

speak

each

us

shall

to

and

for

from

dear

are,

gave

"

How

of

crowns

throne,

may

to

dark

On

recorded.

robes,"

Word

with

placed

grave

moon,

relic

found

been

those

now

touching

was

seemed

these

nor

martyrs,

who

the

spirits

interesting

an

the

"

the

upon

white

hands,"

take

have

"

to

blessed

for

their

to

where

vessel

one,

held,"

friends

spot

came

earthen

little

the

to

those

visited

they

of

seems

by

they

guide

the

sepulchres

lamp,

slain

sitteth

"the

in

were

in

SKY.

"

ever

ITALIAN

clothed

palms

who

God,

our

"

and

heads,

to

that

testimony

AN

in

traced,
after

crosses

which

St.

Paul

were

it

all

probability,

yet
the

needed

lived

only

and
mark

Christian

MUSEUM

OF

THE

Museum

he

of

of

relics

and

and

the

from

of

the

liaria,

we

noble

Aurelius,
it

stands

now

and

as

as

well

the

observes

one

the

as

bold

which

with

Michael

of

of

is

art

tins

in

sole

bronze
;

figure,

emperor's

the

cus
Mar-

where

Angelo

the

Angelo

Way,

statue

statue

of

Mil-

Appian

Michael

of

attitude

all

foot

Columna

the

relic

dignity

free

of

the

at

the

equestrian

ancient

an

and

by

precious

of

specimen

Lionesses

equestrian

placed

of

out

quarters.

milestone

the

to

came

treasury

gathered

art,

steps,

first

rich
a

Basalt

central

or

of

all

the

is

Capitol

works

ages

Passing

CAPITOL.

it

regarded

ation
admir-

the

horse,

is

easily

understood.

the

First,

the

stand

must

to

more

Wolf

Bronze

be

of

treasures

among

noticed

of

as

an

here

antiquity
the

Capitol,
of

object

assembled,
though

tainly
cer-

than

curiosity

of

beauty.
Among

at

with

the

interest,

busts,
said

is

to

one

be

of

Michael

sculptured

Angelo
by

himself.

which

The

looked

head

208

ART

is of

bronze,

colour
eye

and

of

such

statue, in Nero

found

in

Hadrian's
In

called

the

which

surpasses
turn

its

crowned

with

exquisite

In

exceed

The

steal

interest

But

for

Eienzi,

that

visits

first

him,

of his

sound

of

when

his

the

visions

of

of

Capitol,

it in

same

at

this

name,
the

day
the

is

Villa
phagus
sarco-

On

one

passion

to

as

soldier, belonging
from

Amazon

an

her

causes

her

still to

despair beginning

hopeless

which

power

gives

had

he

as

on

the

of

power

the
were

them

Capitol.

to

on

realized,

most

in

ties
localibeside

stood
which
had

bore

followed

"

freedom,
fancied

had
as

of

different

Church

people,

even

was

It

had

the

Roman
led

apart

thought

the

out

history.

looked
the

freedom,

"

to

attractions
associations.

traced

eventful

Bell

Great

the

and

which

earliest

already

his

imagination,

the

there

possessed

and

poetical appeal

in

life

saw.

Mercury,

mythology.

of

with

champion

house,

the

at

sculpture,

dragging

with

Capitol

with

of

in

quaries.
by anti-

Vatican, though

adorns

courage

is

Centaurs

two

of

bo

group.

I had

one

ever

pourtrayed
the

to

full

treasures

noble

here

ruins

of

the

art

I admired

valued

found

ancient

is

captor,
is

of

so

kind

army,

the

me

connected

his

the

to

its classic

the

of

also

Winckelmann,

from

figures,

in

of

it.

Museum

which

halls

of

her

her,

over

liveliest

my

the

mingling

with

the

by

bas-reliefs

group

struggle

from

made
of

one

also

palm

of

and

of

think,

to

greatly

was

that

leaves,

conquering

horse.

to

the

anything

the

to

yield
lotus

with
is

beauty

collection

Albani.

side

in

works

because

are

mixture

unaccustomed

inclined

am

which

in

the

to

Esculapius,

now

This

beautiful

than

villa

same

Antinous,

must

of

Villa,

this

rather

Antico,

marble.

several

beauty,

mixture

white

strange

are

their

yet

of

appears

there

though

composed,
spite

bust

material

and

the

and

NATURE

AND

he

might

at

the

him,
have

UNDER

the

trod

and

which

here

now

before

of

the

his

wondrous

fall

he

in

idol

and

the

form

is not
that

all present
are

to

his

spirit, ere

no

pen

tale

of

that

from

his

have

the
of

its

hall

the

looks

that

forgotten

those

is

not

sleep

The

away.

of

features

who

and

objects
sinks

darkness
has

already

anguish.
o

is

told

of

upon

it,

sight

thought
it

and

must

hibits
ex-

lay
It

furrows

withdrawn

softening
down

the

death

His

sadness

pression
im-

him

see

around.

quiet

the

an

which
to

is

power

by

nature

He

is the

carrying

Scarce

the

now

It

longed

though
marks

of

is made

to

only

wherein

wondrous

on

admiration.

it

been."

power

"

all circumstances

death's

fellow-

from

thoughts

"

scenes

his

they

entered

eye

even

"

their

now

seen.

faithfulness

is

far

beloved

save

is

which

agony

feeling

wandering

summer

instance

place.

sleep

to

brow

the

the

stars

disappears

physical suffering

find

bodily

displayed

neither

but

meteor

where

trace

an

marvellous

down

lights in
no

What

the

transient

what

cruel

was

"

like those

"

anticipation

mere

can

him

brilliant

here

saw

his

upon

Eienzi

the

flitting,leave

is

laws

'which

also

pasian,
Ves-

nobles

lion

justice

only

the

like

beyond

of

vain

the

look

he,

Or

of

even

asked

was

Gladiator.

that

which

at

of

purposed

witnessed

spent

was

haughty

could

scarce

glory dazzles, falls,and

eager

far

alas

and,
I

the

bourhood
neigh-

table

own

here, too,

Whose

sculpture

mind

in

reign

That

of

And

his

to

the

youth

celebrated
of

explained

pride,

His

"

dying

model

spot

asked

citizens,and

With

the

Capitol

their

the

in

Palace,

humble

his

was

209

SKY.

Colonna

the

me

people.

only

ITALIAN

of

triumph,

The

window

of

as

government,

power

of

much

which,

on

and

halls

marble
of

AN

well
fare-

mental
and

subduing
him
touch

But

that

210

ART

"

He

UNDER

NATURE

AND

heard

but

it,

AN

heeded

he

his

not

eyes

"

with

Were

KM

I!,

his

heart,

away.

was

the

of

qoI

far

that

and

life

he

lost,

where

rude

his

There

his
were

their

There

by

hut

the

Danube

barbarians

all

young'

he,

mother

Dacian

was

Butcher'd

prize

nor

But

"

to

SKY.

ITALIAN"

make
a

Roman

holiday."

lay,

at

play

their

sire,

212

ART

amusing
forth

hear

to

the

other.

For

the

amusement,
one

be

upset.

Still

far

Bracciano
the

of

Gothic

The

site

has

been

malaria,

silence
of

creature

wreaths

of

festoons

seemed
who

vietims

the

by

ivy,

of

the

by

recalling

both

deck

to

It

agent

of

death,

whose

is

whose

plete
com-

of

tombs

made

are

the

instance

reminded

and

of

graceful

striking

shores

the

luxuriant

most

the

there

Bolsena,

the

name

to

told

road

if

and

it

to

some

this

was

wild

bare

me

desolate

track

and

time,

wrild

district,
heathery

laughed

we

resemblance

be

may

dreary
a

many

for

Indeed,
him

such

"

traverses

"

me

Scotland.
and

designed

situation

skeletons

but

briars,

tangled

on

single living-

the

by

older.

in
a

nothing

"

it,and

The

Not

hidden

and

unseen

Galera,

dignified

in

half

vines,

this

seen,

it

period

scourge.

Be}*ond

moor

be

the

generations

awful

something

the

centimes

nuns.

around.

perished

Lake

same

is

though

as

of

lovely

the

wild

have

power

there

veiy

in

surrounding

many

in

now

and

above

which

two

for

deserted

outlines

gaunt

than

must

Not

built

are

at

and

driving,

Galera,

houses

wralls

more

it is

is to

kind

any

its

The

desolation

and

their

houses,

of

and

of

century,

that

so

with

carriage

danger.

town

of

are

utterly

romantic,

very

deserted

family.

dwellings,

of

the

Orsini

actual

no

thirteenth

the

account

of

the

the

careful

with

and

Many

of

some

is

of

the

to

the

Arrone.

style

belonged

is

against

one

dispensed

believed

was

us

have

broke

anon

positively frightful

there

us,

dashed

could

became

soon

persevered,

we

guide

and

ever

jolt

part,

Prince

even

to

valley

it

that

tremendous

own

for

daylight
from

as

my

occasion

on

NATURE

exclamations

involuntarily,

the

A.ND

to

his

at

beloved

"Caledonia
]

iraises

had

stern

of

and

Bracciano,

discovered

during

wild"
the
a

that

had

such

attractions

wondrous
hunt

lent

which

had

led

energy

of
him

to

which
into

his
he
its

UNDEK

vicinity.
it

Farther

seemed,

no

beautiful

the

in

was

he

not

the

base

were

that

The

fancy

lake,

to

of

which

the

of

relief
and

of

in

turn

the

for

out

that

rose

hold

cluster

at

worst

In

stood

and

even

at

low

the

road
all

moment

long

roads

peculiarly

one

it back

it

as

did,

feudal

to

the

drive,

bjr

which

calculated
so

we

and

seize

to

much
and

ages,

softness

exquisite

As

ripple
shade

basin

characteristics
the

saw

its

on

excite

to

the

at

same

loveliness

castle

contains
of

rocks.

Komans,
Etruscan

It
and

haze

which

it

first, it

of

this

hung

the

fine

of

an

is
to

and

city, Sabate,

only

of

be

to

derived
to

the
that

have

to

more

placid,

darkened

water,

which

boldness

said

and

overhanging
sheet

supposed
have

and

castle,

the

clear

was

the

appeared

over

crater, while

extinct

an

but

circumference,

or

of

vicinity

glassy surface,

picturesque variety

volcanic
the

misty
we

immediate
in

miles

of the

which

the

is in

the

parts.

deep

ancient

castle.

building

lake,

was

the

of

from

more,

without

all

the

combining,

twenty-five

distant

the

could

eminence,

distinguish

to

and

landscape

much

is about

huge

kind

it

scene.

The

the

of

pile

rewarded

carrying

"

so

of

were

imagination,

Italian

be

that

Bracciano.

whole

the

feudal

this

able

country,

reached

time,

the

commanding

very

of

huge

sight

we

uninteresting

the

the

length, however,

of

scene

as

from

ever

intelligence

tolerably large village.

in

us

agreed

soon

forming

brought

on

the

sky

we

houses

on

battlements

frowning

had

At

welcome

finer

as

only,

not

yet

far

as

expect.

the

certainly

distance,

some

against
its

but

to

proclaimed

and

led

were

went,

we

easily imagined.

At
the

we

party

sight

still

Bracciano,

nearer

213

SKY.

ITALIAN

farther

and

scenery

of

some

AN

by
The

trees.

presents

its shores

all

have

usually belongLacus
name

been

Sabatinus
from

the

submerged

214

ART

the

by

volcano

lake

So

stands.

steep

the

second,

rather

or

Few

make

things

On

therefore

and

jump

to

led

the

the

first

smaller

could

that

from
in

visit

Italy.

this

rock

lofty towers,
of

edifice

is

terraces,

of

from

never

colour,

each

built

and

Gothic

before
and

seen

doubtless

fitted
such

the

water

to

separate

volcanic

windows
a

are

building
this

sombre

first

and

in

good

formed

of

hue

dwelling

surprised
pleasure
other

place

of

would

some

weave.

almost

part

"

rising abruptly

four

stone,

Nothing

scene

he

winding
the

reached,

more

any

as

the

which

not

was

the

lake

every

feudal

rocky eminence,

next

stationary

castle.

almost
for

matter,

already

derived

well

rise from

black

of

had
from

the

the

communication,

than

side

with

and

romance,

on

itself, the

perpendicularly

have

stoiy

1 "uilding stands

"f the

means

seems

of

and

terrace.

Four

stair, and

secret

The

whole

sides.
its

battlements,

preservation.
stones

increases

the

in

entrance

the

ideas
;

Scott

was

up.
of

When

had

around

one's

it

same.

we

Bracciano

castle

it

Truly

wild, mysterious
The

realize

serious

vaulted

which

Walter

Sir

to

the

to

court

than

the

it

power

up

poor

danger

of

been

the

gave

the

when

do

to

immediately

times

learn,

to

have

had

part

for

they

want

or

moment

large

one

feudal

and

seized

walked

we

perfectly

more

obstinacy

it

carriage

our

ere

which

first

so,

than

it woidd

help

alighted,

from

to

and

out,

had

one

gladly

fell

nervous

from

occasion

this

do

to

almost

and

more

me

carriage rolling back,

horses.

unable

the

wind

to

of

top

drag

to

more

began

the

after

refused

were

hard,

struggled

animals

and

on

that

road,

horses

the

as

and

sterner

eminence

the

was

its existence

of

approached,

we

steep

accomplished,

been

as

tremendously

the

time

moment

every

grandeur

magnificent

the

indeed.

assumed

castle

that

so

distant

be

must

The

up

the

of

water

NATURE

AND

of
the

so

black
solemn

CJNDER

It

looks

of

the

strength.
In
or

effect

imposing

and

spite

less

that

should
of

stores

first
le

M.

bad,

seemed
and

afford

to

children,

visitors.
called
the

It

clay.

the

dined

in

three

old

of

entertainment.

hall, once

summoned

to

be

more"

This

little

which
of

had

we

the

far

too,

wTere

was

not

The

distance.

peculiarly
a

now

and

day,
favourable

for

now

the
of

state

such

sky,

hiding

on

but

of

were

country.

immediately
to

that

by

of

barrenness

the

atmosphere
There

prospect.
fitfnl

different
them

the

glittering sheet

the

relieved

radiance

passing

revealing,

the

Italian

unclouded

bright

sun-light, casting
landscape,

entirely

below,

out

we

promised

opposite

with

mirth

towers

part

side

the

in

among

range

the

of

wishes,

settled,

the

from

lutely
abso-

the

which

vast

the

on

together

approached,

spread

water

over

beauty

castle, especially

the

around

luxuriant

and

richness

extending

"

views

earlier

one's

guide

our

had

be

with

passages,

The

the

point

as

narrow

confusing.

really magnificent,
The

damsel

of

we

would

it resound

make

as

assembling

momentous

endless

stairs, and

not

to

women,

proceedings

every
for

and

unwonted

that

meet

hour

the

as

the

returning

To

was

little,D

settled

in

dark.

picturesque

winding

the

the

o'clock, and,

was

roads

named

was

it

us,

the

better, as

ourselves

twelve

patched
dis-

scene

men,

at

on

the

baskets,

sundry

stare

deliberate

to

before

gloomy
an

state

time

impassable

half-past

recruited

just half-past

was

of

abundance
we

of

council

to

attack

The

various

to

assembled

had

we

the

more

providently

advance.

amusement

had

who

in

round

gathered

infinite

After

hours

all

we

and

had

"

dread.

dissenting voice,

kitchen,

of

and

I believe

the

whom

impregnable

darkness

which

to

three

all

we

as

and

carried, without

was

adjourn

or

of

deeds

ideas

Cuisinier,

two

some

not

it

in,

215

SKY.

size, height,

for

place

romantic

indulged

we

its

of

ITALIAN

AN

from

gleams

parts

of

view,

of
the
with

216

ART

when

afterwards,
forgot

of

the

the

the

while

air,

of

through

them,

fro.

In

the

from

the

sombre

children

of

when

there
as

1 (ranches

left
fu]
which

all
vet

came

the

the

again

from

one

little,

we

the

silent

Any

sound

"The

to

first lie

when

Wind,

Through

the

Wanting

my

rose

region,

waste

voice,

memory

ami

felt

suddenly

and

to

lines

of

fault
"

earth

lie

wooed

wandering
the

several

volatile
trees

from
to

kind

give

to
him

kind,
one.

of

row,
sor-

the

murmur,

that

at

intervals,

through

abroad

himself

less
motion-

sigh

I do

Descended
Where,

at

"

went

those

something

distant

those

in

"

stood

save

as

up

"

like

loves

appreciate

will

occurred

naturally

who

one

and

to

lake

abound,
impart

in

burst

the

passed

dying

and,

pines,

here

moment,

of

landscape

the

creeping

waters

almost

sound,

flame

were

hushed,

was

for

awaking
tall

soothing

All

soft

low

the

in

flitting

always

the

from

heavily

lurid

pencil.

gateway,

clouds

which

his

for

seen

which

trees

was

foreground

of

the

with

It

place.

hung

and

point

character

narrow

were

lay

to

in

the

flashes

us

pine

air.

wind,
of

of

of sternness

breezeless

the

lowering

forest

the

and

melancholy
the

along

chosen
in

out

then

dark

the

and

of

figmes

front

in

stillness

in

walk

the

building

human

distance,

west

of

rolled

and

and

leaden

of

our

much

have

right

smoke

now

every

of

the

to

volumes

whence

for

view

so

was

would

Kosa
mass

caverns

the

associations

Salvator

mysterious

with

objects

and

black, frowning

The

hour

an

out

extended

and

struck
of

nature

which

scene

though

sphere
atmo-

lake.

assemblage

whole

shone

the

in

weight

eoniing storm,

again

sun

particularly

was

here,

the

of

apprehensions,

our

margin

fears

suggested

tliat

seemed

There

variety.

never-ending

NATURE

AND

sorrowT-

Taylor's,

UNDEK

AN

ITALIAN

SKY.

Lastly, the
Did

he
voice

mild

Where

It
had

had

invested

From

paths
a

to

flowers

lake

earlier

spring,
of

and

little

hurled

glen

of

its

fruit-trees

month

of

but

whilst

still

forced

donkeys

some

could

however,

of,

use

was

help

of

already

place,

so

the
that

long

with

past

was

and

nearly

huge

till

the

had

rain,

short

one

as

the

in

lake

violets

and

we

were

but

sit

best

as

one

this,

Upon

to

stirrup

only

we

could

make

dinner

when

we

muleteer.
hour

named

even

then

five

o'clock

Meanwhile

saddle.

managing

sands
thou-

the

and

wearied,

man's

of

orchard

wandered.
the

The

Judas-

and

reached

to

masses

garden

English
we

of

fury.

leaves,
an

began

assist

to

and

shores, gathering

we

acting

Castle,
it

it

the

in

hue

bright

perfect

where

wood,

its winter

was

as

mounted,

we

the

reached

for
that

"

It
we

and

in

on

its

far

sent

rocks

without

walked

how

turns

Prince

bloom,

flower,

were

by
with

might,

wild

found,

be

full

lingering by

first

its mite

laurustinus, ilex,

flowers

We

remember

to

myrtle,

shady

over

crossing

now

contribute

the

on

torrent

lilac

in

May.

lovely

of

iron-

loveliest

wildest,
"

to

in

length

at

which

the

as

side,

every

onwards

the

with

soon

the

wandering

by

lovely

the

many

on

put

as

we

reached.

was

perfume

caverns

romance,

through

already

trees

the

the

to

go

dispelled

were,

on

reached

we

with

tree

they

down

Large

beauty.

be

then, again, climbing

"

stone,

would

now

had

trees

first
that

flowing

"

her

in

ocean-cave

knew

strayed

below,

the

should

we

brook

lowly deep,

welcoming

we

breathing

pebbly

drew

horn."

was

fact

we

"

the

the

in

this

little

of

them,

which

foundry,

memorial

though

observed,

we

rested

that

proposed

was

he

he

he

her

soft, and

constant,

so

there

That

from

solicit, and

Pine

for
further
before

delay
we

sat

took
down.

218

ART

Rapidly

the

passed

but

dark,

how

only

from

As

that

well

for

which

about

half

an

done,

moved

we

passed

when

pitchy

dark

of

would

wind,

We

had

and

efforts

what
to

us,

proved

to

be

]~"laced,it

lights.

by

us

we

saw

it

as

In

the

with

moments

the

vain

us

as

in

dismay

and

the
D

and
it

barouche

ran

at

of

its

up

to

tell

it

as

nearer,
better
our

great

long,

ere

and

"

ing
look-

distance

some

two

else

mine
deter-

found

shouts,

rain

than

storm

to

cook,

but

be

to

most

it drew

we

and

the

hope,

the

the

loud

position

of

as

of

following

the

all

to

star

directed,

sundry

came

of

difficult

char-a-banc

The

bandits

by

were

was

security against

while

by

last

distance,

the

for

wind,

appeared
few

in

passed

little

in

At

It

torrents,

heads,

added

but

ness
black-

hurricane

perfect

true,

in

was

clouds.

unless

them.

done.

out

seem,

for

is

kindle

lamp

vehicle

advantage

upset,

the

would

The

back,

shone

was

and

the

rain

had

it

plight truly

thunderstorm

it

be

to

time

horses'

pretty

This

hour

but

heavy

their

see

road

us

to

was

seemed

to

with

the

stoppage,

passed,

the

uninhabited

moor,

presently

torches

persevering

borne

further

impassable

and

not

this

night,

came

in

"

black

almost

own.

inch

an

wild

closed

could

they

of

men
gentle-

tolerably

half

By

wore

lamps.

another

the

arranged

was

first

the

quickly

down

now

the

lighting

darkness

blacker

and

stir

an

And

declared

not

the

in
be

went,

came

had

twilight

it

we

called.

was

road

carriage, the

On

scarcely

fortable,
com-

would

closed

thought
be-

we

means

that

continued,

of

ere

no

then

but

halt

only by

blacker

the

purpose

short

storm.

post-boys

in

the

not

the

second

still

hour;

by

was

travelling by

barouche.

again,

on

succeeded,

whilst

for

anxious

occupy

the

made

was

of

o'clock

six

was

was.

rain

the

in

following

it

how

should

laches

we

it

idea

knowing

long delayed.

we

late

the

at

NATURE

and

time,

ourselves
not

AND

twinkling
us

that

220

the

n'allez
"

kind,

eh

voir

pas
he

!"

serais

M.

le M

"

replied,

"

je

qui

ce

"

?"

Eh

With

quoi

Lien

! et

with

rejoined

Filippo,

?"

est

en

Madame,

mouille."

tout

SKY.

ITALIAN

AN

suggested,""

quietly

vous

I'NDER

NATURE

AM)

ART

assurement

little

too

est

vous

pensez

que

only

inimitable

an

bon

pourquoi

severity,

further

expecting

not

yet

and
"

answered,

le

when

nothing
of

mais

Ah,

lui

manteau,

mien,

the

myself

effect
and

grumbling

proceeded

towards

the

place,

lonsr

but

looked

rain
the

on

descend
the

produced
his

seat

he

and

length

at

which

stoppages
died

storm

we

had

away,
and

night,

quiet

that

upon

approaching.

the

and

deep

it

Bracciano"

was

the

ceased,

it

tion
perfec-

not

from
"

it

all

'thankfulness,

with

did

This

it.

is

sively
exces-

such

juxtaposition,

enumerate

the

last

if he

as

It

took

soon

which

in

"

carriage,

at

himself

raise

carriage, just
to

out

learned,

we

to

of

ment
accompani-

missing

that

hear

emphatic

very

bon

un

Though

laughing

Filippo,

something,

the

at

from

slowly

tedious

be

would

stars

the

should

in

seemed

took

about

the

Notwithstanding,

out

"inferno"

It

manner.

refrain

him

causing

of

without

the

le M

instantly, M.

chiffons

en

voice,

Monsieur

inform

to

c'est
and

to

he

volumes,
il

related,

selfishness.

cool

le

spoke

chalance,
non-

anxious

and

scarcely possible
of

M.

voyez,

the

scene,

itself

in

pour

simply

annoyed,
was

which

shrug

indescribable

With

delay.

ere

reached

La

Storta.
the

There
and

smooth

little

broken
roads
than

more

Lady

dropped

carriage
relieved
hour

an

us

we

Prince

exchanged,

was

from

all

entered

and

respective abodes,

gladly
o'clock

I
in

alighted
the

at

my

morning.

horses

discomforts.
and

Koine,

Mr.

In

having

at
,

their

our

fresh

and

we

own.

drove

to

It

was

Capo

le

between

Case,
one

where
and

most

two

RECEPTION

THE

IN

's

hkough

castle,
"

grand
in

given
had

relative

nearest

for

T'

The

first

families

is

in

Rome

diamonds,

and

in

hall

relation

of

honours

beauty,
I

to

had

to

near

the

give,
agreed

as

we

to

of

for

as

Cardinal

elect.

then

the

of

the

the

entertainments,

the

all

Cardinal.

noble

full

dress,

array

like.

the

most

Princess

lovely

Cardinal,

brilliant

so

possesses

the

her

on

the

which

by

seeing,

in

new

anticipated,
chaperone

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who

family,

customary

magnificent,

and,

evening,

of

introducing

Moreover,

Rome.

is

series

in

to

Colonna7

that

dignity

it

Palace,

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the

occasion,

the

fortunate

ourselves

thought

splendid

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nial
baro-

Palazzo

the

member

present,

are

orders,

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an

the

usually

noble

to

give

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in

occasions,

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cli

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also

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received

raised

of

the

of

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way

reception"

been

is

the

possessor

we

honour

just

the

by

and

Braceiano,

with

acquaintance

who

Torlonia,

PALACE.

COLONNA

to

was

well-known

finish

perfect
and

lonia,
Tor-

the

do

and

grace

to

the

whole.

and
,

222

ART

The

leading

street

lighted

were

the

suite

of

third

in

rooms

and

plaits of
her

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the

waist

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at

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graceful movement,

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diamonds

her

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few

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magic

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at

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and

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rows

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than

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upon

wax-lights

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hundred

marbles,

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With

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the

the

itself, upwards

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riant
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were

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tiara

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appearance.

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perform-

were

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festive

vast

evening.

court

attendants

more

in the

common

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behind.

hair

and

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whilst

brow,

music

numerous

the

number.

her

military

the

diamonds

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the

stairs

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marble

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Princess

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announce

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o'clock

eight

palace,

wearing

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and

about

the

to

and

up,

whole

Ascending

palaces,

for them

called

accordingly

NATURE

AND

along

polished

UNDEK

Several

the

of

other

those

also

AN

ITALIAN

SKY.

Princesses

of

the

wore

Princess

Borghese

and

fine,

tastefully

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out

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the

several

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in

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which

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wonderful

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it

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jects
ob-

and

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there

with

fidelity
around,

of

gallery

some

struck

was

of

gems

lights

collection,

with

perfect.

in

pictures

cabinet
was

represented
the

for,

care

the

countless

these

it.

adorn

to

others

the

indeed

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fine

worn

wearer,

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saw

means

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fitly

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colouring,

that

amid

costume,

as

of

these

to

dresses,

nationality

radiance

spoken,
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in

as

have

the

Hungarian

the

or

gay

the

though

were

rank

and

beneath

and

official

of

brought

when

and

conspicuous,

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splendour

was

of

richness

lights

gems,

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monds
dia-

particularly

were

innumerable

sparkling
and

noblemen,

marking
effect,

the

variety

extraordinary

by

of

refulgence

added

were

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arranged.

splendid

very

almost

as

really

a^gffi"

memorandum

already

avixg

in

the

Vatican,
refer

shall

but

at

go

once

to

that

each

paintings,

five

this

must

the

of

production
well

the

death

and

excite

picture

the

as

Master.

illustrious

relate

Very

Raphael.

by

Transfiguration,
interest

can

fame.

world-wide
a

The

peculiar

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Statuary

"

1st,

;"V

it.

to

contains

possessing

last

the

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again

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FRESCOES.

AND

PICTURES

VATICAN

THE

which

circumstances

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connected

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spirit

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Italy,
The

artist

in

painting
in

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hung

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art

to

"

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its

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lasl

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on

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en

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body

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poet
in

nature.

as

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changed

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lav

burial.

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scenes

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his

previous

funeral,

of

the

ART

AND

Then

NATURE

those

on

And

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for ages

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burst

AN

ITALIAN

divine, thai

forms

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would

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UNDER

forth

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were

moved,

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and

breathed,

lived

all

loudest

225

SKY.

lamentations.''

Rogers.

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the

figure

centre

the

though

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essence

sun,"

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his

of the

with

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is

figures

lad

is

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as

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and

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gence
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light."

with

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as

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seem

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face

white
"

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beautiful

most

represented

whose

became

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heavenly

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represented.
draws

the

to

One

with

possessed

down

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sufferings.

and

has

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sorrows

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painter

compartment

all its

father

of

raiment
two

Saviour.

powerfully

glory

the

is

picture

the

of

admirably

are

the
of the

Disciples,who

three

The

is that

light, so
visible

vision,

of

pencil

and

figures
the

division

upper

of

the

evil

an

disciples

again

to

nent
promi-

most

spirit, whom
if

see

earth

to

they

his

can

cure

him.

2d,

could

description
the

lies

in

the

countenances

indeed,

di
do

no

to

justice,

for

"

exquisite expression
of

I think
of

realization

the

the

and

of

the

the

of

the

well-nigh

must

heavenly beauty

elaborate

most

charm

of

the

picture

softness

and

gentleness

and

Virgin,

latter

pure

which

Foligno,

attendant

be

the

Angel

perfect

most

wrought

ever

in

by

the

pencil.
3c? and
the

was

by
and

To

Virgin.

possessed
called

The

4th,

But

the

5th,

forth

may

masterpiece.

of

interest.

by

Domenichino.
well

neither

me,

any

of

subject

This
the
The

is

Bolognese
scene

is

these

two

however

them,
again

"

The

my

boast

evidently
p

Coronation

fine

paintings,

as

of St.
his
of

chef

Jerome,"
d'eeuvre

producing

supposed

of

admiration

wannest

Communion

undoubtedly
school

is the

to

be

in

such

;
a

Syria;

22G

the

Arab

St.

Jerome,

attendant

and

emotions

fixed

in

as

her

pressing

the

constitute
the

of

Stanze
of

following
or

the

to

describe

the

of

men

It

represents

of

the

various

flight of steps

and

their

doctrines.

4.

at

to

days,

of

of

raises

stretches

the

I liked

your

their

philosophy,

standing
Plato
his

distant
in

points
hand

the

"

this

centre,

the

as

with
earth.

della
the

Philosophy,
impossible

only

tion
men-

admirable,

most

of

all

the

characteristics.
the

their

figures

tions
produc-

Philosophy."

persons

with

four

with

is

assembled

upwards

towards

3.

shall

so

individual
are

the

Camera

It

the

eye

and

the

best
of

long

finest

"

with

more

by

by

cup.

the

Poetry

each,

large hall, wherein

schools

2.

the

painted

are

conception

once

those

gorgeous

called

Jurisprudence.

one

whole

the

is

which

beauties
the

of

tion,
addi-

worn

on,

Vatican,

there

Theology
;

separate

Aristotle

Plato

Aristotle

1.
"

particularly
is

of

in

But,

bearing

some

First

walls

of Athens

presents

famous

of the

is

peculiarly

most

passed

gaze

who

Dalmatica

Bishop

contain

Master.

four

and

Ave

part

These

subjects

only
it

Gallery
that

richest

each,

his

what

are

the

of

saint

picture.

in

St.

is

The

with

female

and

attitudes

this

the

beside

to

great

School

more

but

stands

the

Segnatura,

Not

especially

Raphael.

this

the

possesses

corridors,

spacious

the

hand

of

altar

Church.

kneels

"

Picture

the

of

and

reverence

Greek

who

thin

excellence

high

who

From

Ins

remarkable

Deacon

and

the

at

of

and

youth

Father,

upon

whole

colouring,
the

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the

land.

elements,

the

countenances

of

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consecrated
of

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expression

robes

the

those

the

on

the

and

lowly

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the

in
in

in

it with

identify

age

with

administers

depicted

well

with

him,

clothed

Ephraim,

Lion

the

out

over

he

as

NATURE

feebly kneeling

is

bending

love,

and

worn

emaciated,

as

AND

AKT

leaders
A

disciples.
and

if

you

behold

disputing

uplifted
At

each

on

arm

side

"22X

ART

indeed.

NATURE

AND

The

3.

UNDER

of

Fall

Man,

his

and

SKY.

ITALIAN

AN

froni

Expulsion

dise.
Para-

"

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is

Tree

twined

round

though

as

is

Eve

close

the

the

In

this

sin

and

of

union

the

Angel

the

two

punishment

its

of

the

with

the

moments,

of

sword

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to

seem

we

Deluge

once.

"

wonderful

but

picture,
the

other

however,

his

least

at

"

the

the

Last

most

be

ceiling.

fresco

the

He

seven

of

end

for

Clement

marvellous

art,

Paid

in

in

finished

III.

It

the

variety

"

form

attitude

and

the

countless

among

But

its

like

description

extent

intricacy

and

out

of

the

of

arrangement

question.

of

wall,

and

VII.,
of

must,

commenced

Angelo

pontificate

the

work

extraordinary

it

began

during

years,

Michael

as,

on

figures
render

it

deed,
in-

described,

celebrated

famous

which

Judgment,"

sixtieth

in

this

to

name

year.

it

of

parts

are

elaborate

too

of

though

scene,

4.

at

pair,

figure

The
on.

part

Serpent

guilty

the

going

another

the

centre,

towards

is

hovers

Serpent,
In

what

the

in

bends

and

in

lovely.

most

stands

stem,

triumph

to

to

Knowledge

the

vengeance.

see

of

contains.

anything

is
a

of

VILLAS.

"^jM"

is

lovely

ow

the

sweet

the

rich

of

stolen

think

to

of

dyes

the

of

Rome

rather

with

its

the

surprise.

sweet

decks

pillars,

city

with

me

autumn,

fallen

ancient

on

it

which

the

palaces,

has

wont

was

with

how

and

spring-time,

beauty

young

towers

It

fresh

crumbling

ruined

-"'

this

beneath

the

glory,

evanescent

"

here

fit

so

type

mournful

its

tones

"

C"C

like

lighted
the

had

and
a

for

gay

glow

the

on

the

in

wintry
of

dreamt

adornment

about

garlanded

with

tresses

feathery

with

crimson

the

It

her

see

the

or

pale,

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mourner.

it,

flush,

health,

now

"

now

and

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with

rich
a

clothed

Campagna
broken

festoons

of

of

"

wide

the

think

to
"

fading

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celandine,

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as

of

arches

of
sprays

of

but

the

the

over

of

attire

holiday
hung

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of

garb

Rome

chill

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the

with

cheek

face

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aqueducts

light

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seems

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shrouded

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up

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"

breeze

sighing

and

its

the

vine,
half

the

mouldering
and

several

tombs

with

fringed

concealed

by

the

230

ART

luxuriance

clustering
is

the

past
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should

the

of

green

branehes

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bending

olive

its old

grey

bright

spring,

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the

forest,

tint

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the

grand

round

while

and

each

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mellow

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"

to

But
and

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on

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upon

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for

alone
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far

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quivering
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hyacinth,

celandine

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"

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into

that

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foliage

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lavish

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wealth

ruby-coloured
the

of

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that

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sisters

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found.

mosses

are

of

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the

press,

blue

clime.

on

be

to

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revealing

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of

amid
to

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blue

of

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beauty

alone

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pering
tema

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light,

"

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turf,

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landscapes

spring's

fairy feet

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"

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the

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now

its mountain

on

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with

stern

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circling

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the

trees

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her

wooed

the

sport,

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distant

scattered

trembling,
spray,

the

of

pines,

age

amethyst

that

light

beauty

in

through

from

like
upon

as

village

houses

white

round

other

off Alban

far

smile,

form

poetic

the

green
old

gnarled

foliage around,

between

emerald

rough

graceful

harmonizing

contrast

the

wear

the

pink

shining

hue, which,

of

and

colours,

the

in
and

hoary

gaiety

and

sea,

seemed

the

sobers

glaring

neutral

and

of

dark

fantastic

of

fruitful

trunk

their

shadow,

own

The

the

with

variety

own

Italy's

knotted

all

sky

its

where

pale spectres

garments.

tamarind

ilex,

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over

of

one

"

and

into

these

fairest

the

the

and

twisted

willow,

of

though,

as

sight.

their

on

leaves

that

of

out

all put

cork

leafy drapery,

behoved

hidden

be

polished

and

stems

the

life, it

have

trees

of

of

redolent

all

NATURE

AND

as

of loveliness
anemones,

pearl-like daisies, the

tiny

branch

forget-me-not

an

alike
"

emerald
dear

in

UNDER

all

lands

all

Veaetian
carolled

too

that
such

on

me,

wonderfully
the

aerial

of

them.

Such

airy style, with

colours,

above

fresco-painting
In

the

casino
of

it is the
and

airy figure,

flowers

the

on

with

all

of

earth

those

diffused
Even
that

heard

of

the

to

rarest

this

fair

here,
hours

of

those

all

and
amid

-Another

with

that

beautiful

Guido.

In

truth

with

the

the

and

face

sky, scattering

azure

of

pliant gracefulness

glowing

the

glad

motion,
sunshine

lingering yet

dew-drops

their

of

sweetness

to

each
with

associated

passed

these

scenes

such

lovely day

me

have
as

of

breath

childish
and

art

her
many

whose
of

while

my

home

childhood's

in

That

eye

now

was

once

brightest

!
was

spent

at

the

with

interest

beauty

which

on

first

entranced

mother's,

my

from

me

since

on

I listened

object

to

came

rolled

it awoke

treasures

who

have

often

description
its

whisper

years

sweet

those

faint

How

gardens,

were

its

nothing

youthful, joyous

the

fancy

Long

was

and

land,

building,
rested,

the

can

that

powers

its

of

which

is
of

upon

fresh, so

painting.

voice

produce
re-

air.

gone

this

pencil

richness

Palace

Her

"

lingered there,

are

reflect

to

art, with

an

blue

"Aurora"

floats

one

the

as

days

the

failing flowers,

upon

those

"

below,
so

pleased
of

one

the

gorgeous

peculiar

deep

painting

she

early morning,

upon

of

as

yet

Rospigliosi

spring

around

"

the

poetry

very

such

scious
con-

give.

can

of

personification

that

soft

It

almost

fitly does

so

how

though

as

upon

seem

needed

the

of

all,

sky,

clime

look

rentine
Flo-

birds,

holidays

and

which

Italian

an

joy,

happiest
stand

did

never

gladsome

their

for

dew-drops

as

the

of

frescoes

graceful

but

fulness

beautiful

tints

And

this, to

as

the

mosaic-work

Nature's

were

day

the

231

SKY.

association,

such

equal
in

these

ITALIAN

and

forming

"

or

they

remembrance

to

diamonds,

AN

Villa

Ludovisi.

2-V2

ART

is

It

difficult

very

it is all

course

admission

gaiu

to

the

NATURE

AND

after.

sought

more

this

to

and

Villa,

of
had

however,
,

carte^blanche

than

The

once.

with

chief

is

the

should

be

The

torch.

the

Ludovisi
for

to

be

Juno.

sculpture

in

all

combination,

The

tressed

and

me

as

that

own

the

Porta
was

his

fitting

casket

he

Arcade
"

pillars of
laid

the

it

own

rarest

and

for

is

of

the

better

in

called,
opens
with

with

an

but

but

known
ration
admi-

placed

as

is

of

supported
upon
fountains

but

not

portions
pro-

effect.
in

the

hood
neighbourthe

beyond

way

The

design
it to

acknowledge

sculpture

collecting.

beautiful

colossal

Albani.
but

im-

grace,
the

those

little

and

majesty

could

villas

exception.

an

of

an

Cardinal

gems

marbles,

out, ornamented

of

cannot

one

lifetime

the
It

by

so

and

and

such

heighten

built

is

she

much

calm

of

grandeur

Albani.

was

spent
as

the

and

entirely

to

as

mingling

expression

attractive

is

rank

softness

happy

and

more

most

Rome

Salara,

which

size

still

the

Perhaps

and

the

head,

feel

not

must

feminine

moral

very

tend

of

in

colossal

countenance,

with

rare

very

sublime

the

that

in

this

but

dignity,

commanding

be

around

fresco,

proportions by corresponding

ordinary

to

the

statues

scale, unless

But

beautiful,

fine

I do

general,

me

Guido.

of

noble

very

pleased

youth

very

is

immense

so

on

personified by

several

sant,
plea-

which

from

car,

contains

In

down

brought

vastness

It

one.

and

this

In

after, that

not

more

parterres.

undoubtedly

is

Gallery

only

name

It

before,

seen

is

went

which

wood,

triumphal

shady

are

"Aurora."

Daybreak

Sculpture

shall

in

represented

it

formal

and

stiff

that

so

to

olive

an

is Guercino's

extinguished

as

usual

flowers.

strewing

belonging

through

attraction

goddess

admittance,

gardens

walks

than

better

for

order

it

contains,

The

by
garden
and

Portico,

and
or

twenty-eight
most

terraces,

fully
tastegay

UNDER

with

rich

while

fame.

Two

of

is of

these

Here

solid

is also

in

the

celebrated

with

rapture

with

tapestries

Nobile

from

known
the

One

other

the

of

jasper.
ingly
exceedof

Marriage

of

one

long

the

six

finest

is

distinguished

adds

crown

The

to

Gallery
of

Parnassus

Hadrian's
of
in

this

views
flowers

and

towers

the

plain,

the

But

the

is

of

itself

Raphael

latter

hung

in

of

round

the

Galleria

"Antinous"

the

which

and

and

Villa.

in

the
the

purple

of

finish

its

rivals.

lotus
of

the

leaves,

this

leafy

more

sun,
clad

rests

on

the

the

the

one

mountains,

of
lightful
de-

foreground

city,
hand

on

are

deserving
wanting

over

upon

chiefly

These

there

are

the

walls

latter

less

or

is

The

beautiful.

Looking
eye

ceiling

fresco.

mosaics,

Nor

windows.

fountains,

wreath

beautiful

objects

charming

both

On

exceedingly

many

distant

magnificent.
Mengs,

the

by

beauty

whole.

bas-reliefs

very

in

exquisite

and

grace

glittering
and

hall

designs.

the

freshness

from

and

Praxiteles, spoken

adorns

surpassing

from

Villa,

the

of

collection

as

with

ornamented

few

the

named

the

perhaps

Sauroctonos

"

It

of

be

to

well

rendered
of

as

choice

"

already

notice

is said

Flemish

of

gem

have

which

it

upon

so

rooms.

the

marble,

Winckelmann,

by

is the

from

bas-relief

Apollo

are

white

them

lower

vases.

most

ornament

the

antique

and

arranged
are

of

hue,

every

world.

The

and

the

by

all

into

and

of

and

beauty

passes

alabaster,

Thetis,

and

one

of

statues,

placed,

extreme

sarcophagus

precious
Peleus

of

which

through

gallery

columns,

nearly

statuary,

columns

flowers

advantage,

greatest

in

figures

of

suitably

the

to

and

roses

semicircle

233

SKY.

ITALIAN

of

Arcade,

each
and

groups
to

it is

splendid

shew

to

luxuriance

beyond

this

In

AX

the

its domes

and
other.

on

THE

is

MISERERE.

of

matter

unable

monies

-s'--.

of

had

in

them

by

they

the

realize,

as

throw

*-

of

X.

this

the

heard

listened

the

manifest

secure

however,

longer

allow
my
of

the

music

overpowering

to

accessaries

memorial

some

most

object

Now,

no

ous
peril-

can,

dazzling

must

one

ings
feel-

ever

to.

connected

dramatic

that

effect,
the

light,

the

is

Week,
fully

was

exciting
and

scene,

services

of

prepared

music

be

ceremony.

of

But

the

truly

Church,
with

find

to

would

character

the

managed

power
and

solemn

Holy

of

simple

the

with

the

during

especially

the

to

decided

their

the

our

very

worship.

deluded

the

by

is

by

Miserere,

try

forth

Everything

that

but

silent,

be

to

called

of

and

gorgeous

is

it

enthusiastic,

we

pen

to

the

over

have

that

which

have

impression

description

mere

al
Cere-

during

general

no

fascination

mind

the

which

witnessing
The

the

been

many

Church,
of

have

of

of

Romish

Rome.

on

that

me

record

opportunities

sojourn
left

keep

to

to

regret

greatly

such

here

also,

indebted

accompaniments
it

is,

above

and

236

ART

"

culled

Tenebrse."

The

of fifteen, is placed
where

Virgin,
each

chanted,

psalm
I

have

the

service

been

of

this

concluded,

none

high

remained.

the

over

gilded

white

of

devotion,

hallowed
was

the
of

note

deepening

of

wounded
seek

all
earth

rest

rose

the

notes

hymn

each

and

times
a

most

when

taken

"

forming
that

peculiar

It

in

their

ever

voices
manner,

come

turn,

of

strangest,

in

die

then

long

wild
and
knew

one

the

very

from

some

wings

by

distance,
and

producing

dropped

one

fuller

still, as

tones,
semi-

chords, minors,
of

sounds

from
kind

can

of

medley

conceived

part

ing
unit-

crossing,

sweetest

to

to

"

one

heart

and

viewless

combination

seemed

scenes

"

forth

to

so

voices, clear, steady,

variety

human

which

though

as

on

that

indistinctness

interchanging,

and

first

by others, louder,

all the

the

to

appeared

blending,
in

the

breathed

several

up

compass

the

the

porting
sup-

disenchants.

silence

away

richly

with

noonday

'Twas

one

fervent

such

over

it seemed

been

these

other,

harmony
were

of

on

the

that
iduce

swell

were

of

Amid

flitting

were

while

went

with

had

and

"

air

or

sympathy

fuller

prolonged

off,the

or

and

around,

plaintiveness
heart,

for

then

in

Miserere

and

twilight,

breathless

"

"

essence

glare

its

softened

cast

to

serves

When

with

rapt

and

his

by

projections,

in

softly, tremblingly,

"

from

whence

carved

of

solitary

Chapel,

the

cal,
symboli-

"

agony.

save

mysterious

ruder

pause

of

gloom

and

of

Saviour

last

lights,

filled

Chapel
conclusion

the

of
his

and

number

extinguished

The

soft

the

ear,
the

of

the

now

that

brief

upon

wailing

1"r"

was

spell, which

There

hour

arches,

imagination,

the

is

the

the

At

spiritlike figures,

atmosphere,

excites

the
of

fretted

those

incensed

not

altar,

ceiling,

attitudes

broke

in

side

the

desertion

the

and

was

in

altar

these

of

disciples

friends

lights, to

is conducted.

one

told,

of

pyramid

behind

the

NATURE

AND

There

each
of

pressive
ex-

soft

other
and

UNDER

discord

melancholy
of

key
carried

wo

some

of

heart

others

of

cry

all had

each

the

of

shade

every

the

And

in

of

sinner

humbled

it must

medium

of

language

"

the
if

that

ever,

inspired

holy

been

found

deep
the

sin,
"

its

before
sin
any
to

is

dark

bright

ray

the

before

unjustifying
Judge,

"

verge

of

of

not

hope

heart

the

view

of

despair
thy Holy
and

"

Cast

Spirit

comfort

between

the

seemed

to

swept,

it must

be

felt

me."

breaking

with

has
this

contrite

spirit
and

incapacity

away
And

through

of

convicted

driving

not

me

me,

forth

music

Justice

of
"

breathed

and

the

give

transgression,

from

could

Jehovah,

of

my

Divine

Mness

thus

Israel

wounded

fear,

"

It

prayer,

self-condemnation

me;"

clear

grief,

words

can

and

of

acknowledge

"

before
the

such

changing

the

any

harp,

throne

to

of

abasement

his

of

of

speak

of

Minstrel

chords

the

fitlyadapted

take

presence,

Monarch

the

In

to

consists

principally

thoughts

ever

good,
the

since

touch,

these

The

Miserere"

mony,
har-

fifty-first Psalm

"

which

into

sorrow.

communion

the

God

his

and

of

soothing

penitential

that

be

as

and

of

than

intense

more

universal

that

there

seemed

of

variety

characteristic

and

each

long

flow

and

profoundest

but

feeling,

pathos

what
of

meaning
the

settled

the

mourning

tide

rich

in

suddenly,

blend

softly

full

one

self-abasement,

heart,

utter.

of

depth

"

humility,

in

calm

each

word

would

suffering, they

;
"

then

of

ground

common

some

eloquence

roof

and

some

confession

or

vaulted

spirit

speechless

broken

prayer

the

rate
sepa-

grief
of

mingled

anguish

mental

till united

other,

mood,

and

individual

in

own

sorrowing

monotone

itself

its

on

each

own

the

roimd

out

were

low

uttering

echoing

pain

in

like
a

and

found

sympathy

the

disburdening

rising

shrill
if

though

as

it

by its

forth

sighing

running

as

"

:2:;7

SKY.

ITALIAN

note

absorbed

and

away

"

eacli

plaintiveness

though

as

AN

my
for

almost

from
then
from

thy
the
the

2:58

ART

redeeming
0

God

"

devotion

infinite

concludes

with

thou

build

the

to

gladness

this

of

walls

thy

Jerusalem

It

be,
and

beats

the

and

turned

all

was

music

thrilling

last

its

had

note

sympathy
died

faculties,
left

the

spot.

and

ere

It

was

Make

to

me

pleasure

cold

and

unto

strange

heart

that

after

moments

some

recall

sigh,

he

must

this

to

and

could

with

triumph,

"

suffused,
!

"

listen

can

eyes

away,

spell-bound
and

without

in

quicker

who

indeed,

unsusceptible

and

affecting

powerfully

deeply,

wonderful

good

bring

to

joyful

spirit

in

despise."

not

and

of

burst

drooping

cies
mer-

length

varied

one

good

do
;

the

and

upon

tender

wilt

at

power

mercy

thy

thou

has

tear

away

and

Have

of

heart

love

restored

joy

Zion

"

multitude

contrite

the

of

know

the

to

an

wipe

SKY.

and

of

confidence

and

ITALIAN

and

hymn

AN

reconciled

Father

broken

theme

balm,

UNDER

according

"A

This

of

love

me,

NATURE

AND

almost

absorbed
my
of

relief,

had

they

It

the

as

ceremonies

the

Abbe

much

in

sing
posses-

influential

most

one

the

Vatican,

suffered

however,

of

of

had

Week"

Pope

aged

of

chance

no

Holy

fortunate,

were

good-will

the

at

persons

We

fatigue.
the

the

two

audience.

an

was

"

the

of

and

commenced,

there

Pope,

chaperone

obtain

could

we

when

the

to

thought

generally

was

this,

from

if

ladies,

young

\/

afterwards

shortly

agreed

with

interview

an

companying
ac-

my
the

friends

our

with

interfered

having

ircumstances

POPE.

THE

WITH

INTERVIEW

who

only

not

""

"

the

arranged
accompanied

veil

black
a

the

When

we

at

and

orders

head

were

stopped

of

dresses,

at

the

the

first

by

the

flight
several

to

staircase

genius
of

steps,

gentlemen,

the

Bernini.

door

who

Vatican,
the

called

of

that

head-dress.

entrance

famous

of

hint

and

appropriate

most

up

received
we

the

monument

the

himself

but

request,

our

black

wear

the

conducted

noble

to

deemed

was

carriage

were

Regia,

at

us.

received

We

interview

desired

Scala

Stopping
opened,

was

ushered

us

240

ART

along

where

gallery

In

such

had

we

close

crimson

hood

which
of

mark

wearer

the

of

chair
and

the

of

state

however,

We

kindly, and,

of

his

advanced

it

as

but

my

language,
took

to

most

was

no

in

I
ing
stand-

was

of

the

stood, leaving

the

carpet

save

which

he

it.

on

few

to

somewhat

He

of

inkstand
a

small

furniture

front

The

cabinet

be
of

in

Our

stood,
walls,

pictures

of

to

if

they

so

answer

conversation

that

us

it
of

with

are

being

names

was

advanced,

we

received

enjoyed

addressed

he

renewal

obliged

rather

especially

Italian,

recent

the

he

as

He

private reception,

friends.
and

times

three

solemnity.

told

way,

him,
but

were

personal

speaks

never

There

courtesy
due

was

quiet

near

he

with

all

We
this

where

silver

to

with

ceremony.

just

canopy,

was

with

value.

and

did

in

with

directed

we

laches

the

ornamented

were

were

which

beneath
table

beauty

great

down

uncovered.

room

small

laid

was

cloak

characterized

and

velvet,

material,

was

intelligence.

crimson

of

with

before, nothing

more

"

He

prince,

head

face

His

crown.

than

XVI.

loose

his

I said

expression,

heavy

of

almost

tapestry,

such

some

Upon
as

of

pieces

Gregory

kind

Here

and

sovereign

but,

triple

canopy

of

or

and

back.

the

the

disengaged.

was

tedious,

of

cashmere

benevolence
a

he

into

garb,

Raphael.

Pope

than

arm,

the

the

presence

monk

velvet

material

rest

he

at

of

by

say

same

any

hung
crimson

beneath

or

one

with

and

should

on

of

several

at

the

cartoons

scarcely

white

of

vest

badge

skull-cap

full,

like

more

fitting

could

into

fantastic

until

glanced

even

dressed

was

wait

delay

summoned

were

far-famed

to

their

in

guards

the

are

place

1 "efore

we

Swiss

requested

were

we

of

line

NATURE

AND

little

upon

of

by

repeated,

awful,

rather

himself.

form

introduced

individually.

queries.

very

seeing English

acquaintance

his

us

with

we

He
sidering
con-

that

Fortunately,
He

asked

UNDER

me,

however,

what

the

Miserere

which

questioned

it

as

so,

with

opinion

he

manner,

would

long

he

as

old

Poor

lived

no

In

he

As

addressed

signal

turning

each

to

we

withdrew,

he

retired

keep

as

small

We

of

him

energetic

most

that

adding,

terra"

Papal

States, yet

how

short

from

that

railways
that

of

span

his

he

date

was

the

the

few

for

hidden

who

bowed

by

very

few

by,

and

graciously,

and

tapestry

rosary,

we

blessed

with

interview

my

by

his

anecdote

than

discretion, left England

infinite

way

an

fixed

sought
of

then

interesting

and

in

presumption

of

view,

obtained

which

at

he

true.

and

the

went

conversion

"

interview

an

him

overwhelming

which

concerning

believe

to

reason

object

presented

him.

zeal

by

and

holiness,

good

She

each

were

have

one

Meanwhile

round.

of

more

stood

steps.

some

the

moments

which

Pope.
and,

In

eye

my

foot, which

left

rather

with

Rome,

the

reception-room,

of

companions,

my

told

full

more

door
turn

memento

Pontiff,

him,

the

attendants

backwards

the

the

successively,

us

alabaster

were

lady,
to

of

permitted.

on

kiss.

to

of

one

to

to

slipper

walking

leaving

with

this

of

allowed

On

to

through

were

words

privileged

are

made

we

done

"sotto

month

one

few

embroidered

the

on

"faithful"
he

be

thought

than

less

the

railway

expression

railways

was

should

little

In

the

had

glad

more

fell

he
into

one

he

man

life remained.

not

the

named

was

of

dislike

introduced

be

and

day

performed

characteristic

when

not

favoured.

his

previous

had

we

of

Peter's, and

St.
the

like.

most

were

we

doubted

speedily

such

the

declared

he

though

as

which

how

travelling,

forth

of

Rome,

and

24]

SKY.

performed

home

of

modes

called

of

been

my

England,

other

among

ITALIAN

thought
had

of

me

from

journey

AN

once,
must

put
be

with
before

guilty

in

242

himself

setting
He

listened

thank

not

and

ask

you

if

of

foundation

the

became

meekness

and

But

is

decided

me,

humble

not

which,

as

that

myself

right

yourself
well

have

you

is

of

not

to

Popery

holiness,
!

to

so

was

that

be

must

difficult

to

of

possessed

said,

lady
his

be

me

mission

the

if

to

sinner,

allow

this,
and

one,

be

to

said

romantic

forbearance

convert

It

the

myself

having-

shews

Christianity."

added,"

was

knowing

and

undertaken

humility,

true

do

"I

said,
Believe

behalf.

my
I

that

spirit

own

now

in

then

and

time,

zeal

Christendom.

passes

feeling

have

of

teacher

some

life

my

your

for

SKY.

ITALIAN"

infallible

your

forgiveness.

asking

you

for

God,

my

that

what

of

the

calmly.

madam,

day

before

her

to

you.

as

up

AN

UNDER

NATURE

AND

AKT

believe

melted

she

the

by
herself

-\

ART

and

pomp

into

instil

not

And
between

the

is

that

of

educated

too

of the

the

these

among

Roman

poor

Christianized

them.

seeing

witnessed
goes
with
twelve
the

hall

bis

pushing

from

fruitlessness

off

the
and
of

continue

outer

again,
such
to

of

in

Home,

which

to

represent,

of

during

attempts

Cceita,

seated
with

for

the
the

became
towards

of

The

some

of

body
as

densely

desperately
could

mass

obvious,

tering
minis-

and

hundreds

ceremony,

I
in

Pope

appetite

table.

human

the

sion
admis-

places

the

Englishmen,
of

all

on

spectacle

himself,

at

ing,
rush-

place

when

hearty

the

frantic

the

forget

and

from

result

favourable

most

very

strength

sides

struggle

tion
propor-

takes

girding

the

to

the

large

the

that

the

of

principally

as

mingling.

enlightened

more

upon

soon

pilgrims

poor

together

Again

hands

crowded,

was

not

form

the

own

wedged

it.

shall

ings
feel-

partly

and

the

to

are

professes
a

better

remarkable

tickets, orders, "c,

ceremonies,

through

it

it must

secure

celebration

twenty

or

to

the

at

that

even

"

and

as

is

community

importuning

different

the

person

courteous;

they

there

consequent

and

them,

among

for

and

disregard

Week,

fancy

excitement

scrambling,

to

Italians,

concourse,

higher

whom

most

public

frequently

Catholics,

nation.

over-wrought

hands

is
"

among

forget

to

the

indecent

Easter

the

fellow-countrymen,

sight-loving English

somewhat

appears

people

the

all, during
of

of

of

contrast

often

is

conduct

supposed

and

the

truth

in

times

own

found,

rudeness,

habits

and

our

be

to

be

to

are

overbearing

is

could

drilling

occasions,

The
such

at

of

many

it

alone

Above

that

these

on

marked.

orders,

where

Italy,

for

lower

of

invariably gentle, good-humoured,

almost

while
in

the

of

painfully

and

peculiarly

nations,

two

lifetime

saying,

help

cannot

whole

Englishmen.

sturdy

our

here

even

which

ceremony,

NATURE

AND

long
did

obi ect

make

after

those

the

est
farth-

of attraction.

UNDER

which

AX

fortunately, being

thus

saved

from

Pope,
fiercest

and

labouring

execrations

had

that

some

were

our

on

would

civilisation

my

escape

at

in

probably

"

their

to

groans,

the

swaying

learn

to

but

And

these

superior enlightenment

the

the

made

multitude

in

scene

ceremony

obstreperous

repeat

that

exhaustion,

injuries.

religious

before

disgust,

forth

bodily

severe

Catholic

and

borne
over-

Yells,

from

surprised

terror

exhibiting

countrymen,

and

with

received

all.

.1

only

was

have

speedily

and

was

fainted

only

not

platform,

incessantly

nor

21

strong

which

burst

throng

had

rushed

SKY.

supper-table, pilgrims

and

several

raised

violence

ITALIAN

other

some

place.
The

other

any

during
of

evening

its

the
and

and

where

For

had

is
of

first part

of

the

of innumerable

stupendous

silvery light,
beautiful

on

vision
have

eyes

mind,
of

so

fancied

the

dream
that

effect
for
not

so

some

the

was

over

out,
and

in

moment,
much

Or,

when

great

and
was

of

drew

already dusk,
This

every

portion

lines

of

proportion

more

to

the

edifice,and

twilight disappeared,
became

and

commenced.

disposed
trace

for

favourable

early,

It

had

to

as

securing

side.

ment
Govern-

fortunately

was

of

the
This

annually,

down

illumination

of

expense

facade

either

on

As
the

the

the

the

feature, ornament,

every

close

of

building,

advanced,
To

drove

we

lamps,

architecture.

evening

view

colonnade

of

for

St. Peter's.

evening

purpose

than

more

reserved

occasions

The

the

the

at

other

two

piazza,

full

provided

people.

great

of the

the

I could

or

the

the

we

curve

brilliant

one

of

within

the

which

Illumination

is

delicious.

consists
of

incomparably

that

was

the

close,

and

gratification

up

enjoyed

Easter,

exhibition

this

on

place

"

magnificent

calm

which

spectacle

of
and

it s
tin-

like.
fairy-

more

leave

reality

pale

the
as

steadily gazing

pression
im-

of
at

the

it,

clustering constellation,

246

in

nearly

For

hours

two

the

of

oi'

human

voices

of

breathless
vibrated

stroke

lain]is,

around

each

and

dome
that

of

as

glorious

structure

The

from

city,

every

object,

and

When

Hill,

of

be

at

every

all

seen,

we

which

had

ascended

completely

spot,
we

The

passed

the

distinct
to

the

overlooks

as

human

the

lofty

the

shower

forth

bridge
out

the

Castle

of

beings,

the

into
in

St.

river,

clustered

spectacle might
light
of

terrace

city,

seemed

piazza

stood

gorgeous

highest

the

margin

the

the

light

the

of

mass

in

of

crystal

along,

huge

whence

of

dark

the

unearthly

to

crossed

and

along

the

the

invisible

from

and

drops

of

as

in

and
over

with

the

of

up

gigantic

ran,

down

playing

thousands

point
were

looked

wonted

houses

gaunt

countenances

together
best

tall

as

light.

steady

the

Angelo,

the

the

drove

strong

the

of

instead

the

spnmetry

glare

around,

influence

we

As

ruddy

fountains

of

fire, against

matchless

statues

great

fiery

the

living sparks

the

tall

leapt

gunpowder,

glowing
the

With

the

them,

catch

of

background,

heavens

to

lines

in

of

silvery

capital,

sky above,

sombre

train

ignited

an

colonnade.

the

into

ness
stillsecond

those

of

pinnacle

very

the
the

ere

and

column,

the

to

up

hum

busy

gallery, cornice,

each

Along

the

magician,

unseen

an

bourhood
neigh-

the

into

one

of

groups

in

almost

each

window,

cupola,

pencilling

upon

of

the

in

instant

and

observing

by

or

nine,

one

beside

ear,

each

towered

swiftness

agent,

touch

the

pediment,

cross

anticipation

golden brilliancy

of

flame

in

the

on

by

as

hushed

was

ment
enjoy-

occasionally

clocks

of

stroke

first

earth.

to

untiring

ourselves

the

As

us.

the

sounded

the

delight

and

around

people

common

in

acquaintances,

passing

admiration

of

ecstasies

heaven

from

amusing

scene,

with

fallen

continued

we

novel

by conversing
the

beauty, had

of

form

unbroken

NATURE

AND

ART

the

of
the

noonday.
Pincian

appearance

of

UNDER

the

illumination

that

sufficient

we

view,

nearer

stood

now

and

not

the

dazzling

of

the

solid

material

the

skeleton

was

of

Until

effect

mosaics,

the

with

to

but

the

and

was

of

the

last

not

few

produced

fortunate

the

pageantry

altar,
enough

the

can

to

beheld

structed
con-

high

altar,

witness.

annual

of

and

some

light

cross

of

the

covered

and

bright

and

inside

gorgeous

Papal
in

this

on

the

from

aisles,
of

hid

now

building.

accidents

columns,

the

elaborately

was,

gilding

fantastic

and

high

the

on

with

we

s,

The

lamps.

new

there

the

completely

Peter

of

over

its

which

on

with

but

what

suspended

brilliant

strange

the

light
years

was

immediately

thus

St.

illumination

interior

of

of

lines

point

themselves,

of

the

and

together

that

on

comprehended,

visible,

so

closely

edifice

be

distance,

edifice,

framework

imposing
from

The

all

enables

the

the

whole

lights

vivid

of

From

the

it

distance

can

detail.

from

Peter's

beset

the

vastness

countless

far-retiring

the

among

was

the

thousands

the

only

proportions

dome,

with

of

an

gigantic

great

in

which

proportions

effect.

those

within

occasion,
of

only

peculiar

most

houses

their

from

St.

of

The

striking.

more

view

while

the

fully

which

colonnade,
on

in

take

to

eye

still

the

approach,

241

SKY.

possible,

and

streets

of

side

public

ITALIAN

clear

to

of

labyrinth

the

if

was,

is

elevation

AN

splendour
coloured

and

shade

arches,

together

procession,

moving

degree

imagine,

hex

the

time

our

departure,

for

could

do

all

by

enhanced

the

tionate
affec-

whose
upon

months,

those

look

back

the

well

as

as

our

from

family,

her

and

Lady

also,

"

it

these

Our

sad

was

to

sever.

however,

arrangements,

evening

it

came

and

of

with

intercourse

pleasant

of

interest

pleasure.

friendship

endeared

intensely

deep

cousins,

during

unmingled

The

greatly

dear

regret.

more

ever

did.

was

my

kindness,

The

of

feeling

one

any

itself

of

society

prevent

that

homewards

turned

be

to

now

than

place

fixed

been

thought

the

even

think

Rome

enjoyed

with

not

were

not

had

near

altogether
I

the

which

drew

steps

our

ROME.

FROM

DEPARTURE

and

then

trust

myself

That

loved

often

admired

Mr.

walked

farewell

dwell

on

is
one

together

fairer
a

Fontane

Quattro
of

the

and

parting

in
now

the

part

exchanged,

was

to

at

spent

was

we

which

land

the

and

completed,

were

than

us,

may

proved

dear

with

parted.
has

home

way

last

our

that

not

last.

have
we

ART

NATURE

AM)

Once

UNDER

the

more

carriage

....

to

infinite

our

dinando

and

bade

with

him

street,
speak

occasional
his

of

with

Ferdinando

asked

of

mixture

et

he

Well,
and

his
I

first

about
in

night

at

first

start,

the

horses

compared

with

Right
far

"

less
a

side

merrily

of

was.

when

curious

in addressing
morta"

sei

!"

cavalli

it

as

could

certainly
of

give

the

of

Not

best,

and
the

we

the
were

better
five

keep

most

comfortable
un-

greatly

now

accommodation
o'clock
for

then

prostrate

the

on

slightest warning

"

had

ditch
we

gage
lugroad.

lo ! in

collision
in

our

little

long hill, when

a

we

while

competitors

words,

next

travellers

having

we

in

numerous

By

ami

and

corner.

starting early

other

fresh,

among

its accustomed

our

we

down

ourselves

article,ourselves

did

our

settled

more

securing

of

write

can

jerk,

road

he

at

of the

rattling

tremendous
the

of

many
we

than

time

the

petite

perdre,

he

face

In

Castellana,

inn

any

being

were

pleased than

strongest,

Civita

successfully

very

hope

povera

counselled

view

the

and

the

infant.

; each

poor

before

off;

were

renewing

once

we

night's resting-place.

next

our

of

naturally

at

spent

possible

astir, with

were

find

Ferdinando

if

morning,

say,

places

to

quarters;
over-crowded.

in

la

very

He

Rome,

illustration

to

old

the

was

future.

the

in

voulu

the

as

might

we

usually employed

mieux

the

in

seeming

number,

The

this

grief

was

goods

our

the

of
as

bien

professional

most

sincerity

little

Madama,

Ah,

select

to

the

was

"

j'aurai

seemed

and
he

that

his gladsome

over

Italian

him

meanwhile,

less

we

passed

Ante

and

replied,

were

shade

Case,

Fer-

friend

met

for

wait

to

so

nor

young

French

moi"

pour

He

his

for

us,

and

us

le

chance

his

take

to

Capo

at

had

arrangements

our

employment,

engagement

Poor

call

door, and,

good

our

we

the

at

was

was

previously

him

gladly agreed

most

weeks

Some

its driver

satisfaction,

249

SKY.

ITALIAN

AN

of

crash
at

the

what

250

coming,

was

till I found

the

falling on
of

us

managed

looked

we

Ins

hand,

saints

safe

were

Ave

unable

what

wheels

and

with

the

far

strewed

disorder

dire

in

of broken

hopeless

as

and

to

fall, and

luckless

team

turn

of

out

their

of

stubborn

of

the

was,
axles

of

cause

way,

drivers.

that

if the

not

The
our

waggon,

our

which

first result
wheels
and

were

the

we

huge

of their

caught
second,

was

absolutely
tardy

what

the

free.

all,

"

upon

lay

"

ments
this, fragevidences

apparently
serious

or

to

what

be

seen

by

refused

to

endeavours

clumsy
I have

in

be-

dragged

unaccommodating
by

selves
them-

rain, too,

waggon

somewhat

two

"c.

from

were,

There

had

in spite of the

of

The

his

get

other

apart

where

and

contained,

to

scene

as,

"

mules,

and

wood,

sought.

disaster

had

Add

conceived

be

to

myself

prided

beheld

idea

an

should

assistance

direction
the

had

be

that

the

"c,

books,

carriage

misfortune

well

could

we

of

with

trying

ground.

certainly

we

helpless

and

personal injury,
o-an

the

upon

glass, splinters

destruction,

of

had

of

him

amusing

were

and

the

all

which

of

arrangement

"

them,

cushions,

than

more

with

advised

distance,

some

other,

carpet-bags,

tell

first.

to

each

kicking

seemed

it

and

at

attached

pole

trunks,

Boxes,

do

winch

horses,

the

catching

fusion
con-

perfectly bewildered,

but

should

he

of

calendar

to

us

bye

forehead

his
whole

upon

beseeching

again

uninjured,

and

tell

to

front

and

help him,

to

calling

frantically

now

and

by
scene

striking

Ferdinando,

what

neither

investigating

out, and

then,

; and

from

that

of

ourselves

scrambled
also

me

on

the
been

himself

keep

ascertain

to

bethink

extract

to

had

who
to

sufficed

to

next

position.

actual

our

the

hurt,

was

contrived

instant

One

me.

of

uppermost,

now

come,

window

side

mud!

the

in

planted

side

through

protruding

had

what

distinctly comprehend

feet

my

carriage, and
at

did

nor

NATURE

AND

ART

stinacy
ob-

ing
project-

described.

252

unfenced
the

bank

by

of the

side

The

of

news

of

offers

tolerably comfortable,

and

little

romantic

rocky

town,

repaid

us

amid

which

dells

for

well

be

rooms

very

remain

to

ramble

and

ravines

picturesque

resolved

we

and

quiet afternoon,

were.

we

the

But

could

damage

finding

and

hours,

twenty-four

in

those

by
Narni.

at

chief

the

that

friendly

made

inn

it,

over

many

were

the

of

room

and

us,

it

there,

thrown

been

Term'

to

Ferdinando

from

ascertaining

clean

public

the

in

have

preceded

on

us

happened

accident

from

abruptly

sunk

kind,

should

we

disaster

our

conveying

assembled

repaired

that

the

had

and

inevitable

appeared

of any

parapet

or

road

NATURE

AND

ART

where

the

larly
singu-

surround

this

unlooked-for

the

detention.

is still

arches

white

the

above

it is noble

entire,

without

marble,

hills

Narni

is

and

and

the

was

rough

of

of

passage

the

One

of

blocks

of

ruin.

in

the

bridge joined

This

is

Augustus

even

composed

cement.

river,

of

bridge

magnificent

the

of

attraction

chief
the

of

remains

The

lofty

Flaminian

the

Way.
The
all

carriage

anticipated

at

Terni

in

late

the
every
autumn

the
the

green

very

in

richer

landscape.

on

of

wood

weather

first

the

full

beauty
And

ripe

"

to

now

her

loveliness,

and

meadow,

the

and

profusion,

every
we

Italy

fruit

every

nate
fortuto

was

hanging
tints

mellow

light

beheld

with
while

respect

through

arrive
ingly
exceed-

Very

with

journey

to

is

delicious.

wanderings

our

thither

road

and

the
mantle
tree

at

ture
depar-

our

unwilling

were

was

had

we

of

allow

to

whole

The

vintage

clustering

spring-time
alike

the

of

giving

glowing

Our

year.

midst

side

in

been

the

of

season

the

we

as

than

sooner

use

early enough

day.

and

we

not

morning,

the

beautiful,
have

yet

second

the

till

fit for

made

was

shade
fair
of
and

land

the
in
on

of
in
in

softest
flower

UNDER

seemed

is

lovely

and

climate
fade

where

that

fresh

the

burning

Amid

lied

where

light

for

and
At

branch

within

short

dashes

over

bottom

of

its

first

since

reaching
fallen

is

for

something
sweep,

arrowy

speeding
which
next

the

on

enhances
appear.

to

the
the

Arrived

having

Cadute

at

made

we

hired

anticipation

agreeable
delle

Marmore,"

for

the

the

the

road

mile

and

the

Nar,

other

plan

divides

half, to

whence

from

the

the

ascent.

the

town

of

Valley

about

place

the

from

hamlet,

carriage

river

the

the

the

Velnio

leading

to

the

recommended,

most

leading
in

comes

still,and

the

resistless
which

with
verge
effect

of

their
of

the

the

for

as

those

rapid
in

wild

uproar

leap
in

hits

waters

has

husbanding

hurrying

tremendous

the

itself

if

determination

wooded
until

stream

the

on

the

to

of

roar

smooth,

crisis, flows

coming

long ascent,

sight;

of

nothing

ear,

the

of

top

spot, though

this
the

at

pathway

narrow

of

ing's
morn-

first.

Deep,

visible.

energies

There

on

that

of

by.

continued

one

adopted

road

little

hours

distant

miles

precipice

We

the

from

of

been

yet

it to

cause

night, and,

"

the

hill

of

upper

where

moment

long

soon

inn,

through

the

rocky

tall.

the

followed

bank,

lasts, in

comfortable

the

mountain

distance

the

Alighting
we

so

it

sweet

Terni.

is

miles

small

the

chose

and

five

ascending

of

passes

three

nearly

in

oft;
at

Falls

them

to

Papigno,

one

sun

few

over

set

about

are

leading

road

the

as

falls

These

remaining

afternoon

an

known

better

while

pleasantly

tolerably

carriage,

spending

and

swiftly

for

open

fair,the

and

found

we

arrangements

of

the

of

rays

singularly

And

verdure,

young

fresh

so

scenes

journey

existence.

wither.

and

Terni,

253

SKY.

ITALIAN

joyous

into

waking

AN

that
waters

"

current

less,
noiseare

something
which

they

254

ART

the

by

of

orders

side

open

broad

The

before

rock

jutting

stand

in

that

not

sublime

mighty

of

mass

that

it

has

long

generations

yet

unborn

"

The

idea

did

we

of

Psalmist

the

around

look

waters

than

I know

not

the

himself
the
able
every

mournful
with

the

who
is

than

heaves

it

and

the

such

its

sound

of

ness
consciousever

ever,

when

continue,

so

upon

"

eddies

boiling

of

lie in

really

wait

Lord

the

The

contemplation

there

The

custodes,
at

every

what

to

seems

in

strength

of

Lord

when

the

is great

long

the

upon

is

high

on

and

by
and

yet
mind
or

enough

it

caused
the

has

by

innumer-

beset
is

to

calling

personage,

annoyance

turn,
And

intolerable.

of

words

grandest

is

but

garrulous

place.

provoking,

and

glory

the

waters."

most

the

is

"

stood
a

he

what

for

the

scene,

which

in

in

sublimity

that

amid

the

many

tiresome

these

it is

is

There

voice

we

of

of

custode

hand,

gaze

mightiest

of

long

patience

beggars

with

with

glory thundereth.

noise

how

of

buzzing

it

see

which

sight

will

and

themselves,

The

of

the

the

exhaust

"

God

mightier

the

which
you

sounding,

dashing,

illustrate

to

power
the

is

what

for

Almighty

the

together

"

waters

suggested

whereby

nature,

water

unconsciously,

"

of

abyss,

carries
as

power

shall

many

almost

and

fall, rushes

its

vapour,

it.

voice

the

into

Nature

centuries,

for

as

in

thus

been

in

of

view

it.

resistless

falling

of
the

from

impressive

white

of

around

downwards,

even

cloud

anything

of

impress

and

literally overhangs,

upon

vast

fall,

unbroken

yet

guide-book)

projecting piece

most

and, looking

majestically

rolls
I know

sheet,

the

says

upper

the

tar

on

the

of

by

you,

yon

disappearing
and

is

transparent

close

down

middle

tins

of

(so

stands

Napoleon,

the

rock, opposite

erected

building,

wooden

small

NATURE

AND

on

you

even

more

been

filled

beautiful,

to

have

UNDER

again

turn

to

upon

desire

longing

and

cataract,

observation,
proceeded

climb

to

from

the

fall,

Here

found

we

led

by

to

well

her

apron
the

from

wish

It

in

late

was

carriage

ended

an

have

evening

waiting

excursion

ere

dashes.

having

of

the

stream,

My

donkey

more

with,

which

did

quite

me,

my

met

yet

zealously

reached

the

back

us

than

more

of

are

she

fill

much

as

bajoceh

i than

village

where

share.

we

take

to

which

her

upon

it

petrifactions

rather

of

and

not

to

side

discovered

I had

appeared

and

us,

soon

Most

to

which

banks

who

of

whole

brushwood.

obtain

to

fallen

the

was

it

as

oblige, as

to

the

beautiful

flowers.

both, and,

otherwise

would

the

with

and

which

the

like

almost

included

the

peasant,

flowers
of

erected

into

the

down,

opposite

awaiting

down

ilex

Italian

specimens

themselves

of

some

possess

as

ride

groves

pretty

donkeys

and

of

points

bower

ravine

wooded

pleasant

tangled

through

desire

the

little

side

way

the

on

which

the

various

little

eminence

view

guides

had

mounted,

was

of

and

stream

another

enjoyed

we

the

craved.

they
at

charitable

any

which

press

from

more

was

the

from

human

often

so

from

bajocelt i

regie

en

rocky

it

precipitous path

crossed

we

valley, where,

terrace,

as

it

seen

spots,

than

them,

of

objects

very

that

the

the

descended

Having

the

them

gave

we

of

quit

be

to

that

feeling,

these

at

as,

wretched

fear, however,

you

misery

and

degradation

such

witness

and

255

SKY.

ITALIAN

AN

Terni

to

realized

and

long

our

so

ished
cher-

expectation.
The

which

Somma,

Monte
thousand

feet

above

wild

stern

in

and

Terni

of

but

Spoleto,

took

day's journey

next

the
with

rises,
the

level

of

its

fine

again
old

the
on

the

up

the

at

its character
descent

us

highest

leaving

towards
fortress

the
and

scenery

the

fertile

becomes

plains

picturesque
vast

four

nearly

pass,

The

sea.

of

ascent

steep

of

town

aqueduct,

is

256

rich

beautiful.

and

and
Torre

bridge

ancient

according
battle

of

sweet

evening,

stands

in

than
I have

by

deep

felt

stopped

soft

and

visit

the

has

given

lore

has

refreshed,

after

tin-

of

could

to

school

Umbrian
from

his

which

beautiful

greater

I know

haps
perwhen

not

fatiguing

than

day,

The

spend

least

at

painting

city

of

of

his

time

there.

and

colouring
in

the

earlier

had

we

is the

and

centre

known

called

so

Raphael,

of

master

the

as

Perugino,
the

was

Galleries

Narni,

Perugia

was

He

Picture
at

famed,

master

great

adoption.

soft

e'er

v"a"

detention

our

day

wave

visit the

to

deservedly

Its
his

sweetest

nymph."

for

but

traced, especially

spiritual expression
perhaps

ami

may

works

purer

of

gifted pupil.
the

In

Cathedral

Baroccio, which,

pleased
""

here

me

Baptism

together

in

one,

of
for

San

many

Lorenzo

were

of

by

two
"

Christ;""

is
found

years,

Vatican.

the

of

treasures

the

little

though,

of

much

of river

very

school.
the

and

be

spare

Perugia,

the

the
of

light

temple

which

and

stood,
with-

and

after

interest

living crystal thai

most

haunt

The

proposed

hot

This

of

Of

at

little

an

serves

spans.

glowing

imparted.

"

We

it

Hannibal,

to

delle

now

Romans,

of

stream

Harold

the

attack

to

and

which
of

early,

Aqueduct

arches,

ravine

the

By

Clitumnus

more

The

noble

ten

the

Livy,

classic

even

Spoleto

reach

to

there.

"Spoletum"

we

Childe

draught

the

to

the

glad

hours

of

Thrasymene.

near

allusion

were

NATURE

the

was

"We

range

across

city

AND

four

or

of

consists

as

three

spend

to

ART

But

by
a

Pinturricchio

the

masterpiece
place

pictures

Perugino,
series

the

of
most

the
six

of

amid

which

the
most

"Nativity,"
pictures

exquisite

and

framed

Madonna

[JNDEB

and

with

Child,

earliest

works,
is

named

as

the

reading,

so

book.

It

almost

every

Jnst
Arco

is

and

Leaving

view
There

be

lies

the

amid
the

left

real

the

enclose

by

the

little

mounted

general,
suspected
fast

remains
"

the

of
The

of

town

when

he

no

danger,
in

interest
upon

the
does
the

Tower

valley

is

well

so

and

was

midst

very

banks

of

each
the
R

little

the

that
the

Roman

little
that

plain,
he

With

army.

rivulet

hills

placed

was

the

day

ginian."
Cartha-

than

unconscious

these

this

Gualandro

that
in

to

woody

the

which

hostile
of

to

outlet

concealed,

of
in

take

other

wholly

yet

horse-soldiers,

called

the

position

name,

as

the

Hannibal

near

his

up

of

no

Passignano,

its

rendered

are

tower,

ascent.

entertained

his

reached,

leaving

took

one

old

an

however,

and

There

concealed

the

additional

wearisome

be

is

suppose.

summit,

can

it

than

date

requires

banks,

battle.

Hannibal

that

recalling, by

its

the

at

Augustus,

doubt

the

doubt

of

field

ambuscade,

locked

standing

not

of

to

hill

repays

from

look

to

Arch
no

its

the

upon

differs

ran

one

Thrasymene,

completely,

one

From

on

and

earlier

steep

fought

around,

When

and

haps
per-

with.

the

far

rendering

looking

hastily

lead

well

of

which

people

of

is

leave

style

sented
repre-

countenance

met

called

would

which

because

interesting

to

also

long

battle

last

is

down,

the

also

I have

tedious.

Lake

of

The

Virgin

cast

picture,

ready,

was

seen

the

being

kind

it bears

very

memorable

the

little

consequently

is

to

hillocks

by

lovely

and

Perugia,

and

is

more

Child

the

the

are

eyes

The

Vecchia,

inscription

horses,

the

Raphael's

Stafia.

which

expression

its construction

Roman

and

of

carriage

Via

Etruscan,

this

very

other

della

though

the

the

as

that

striking.

more

in

of

one

"

Madonna

picture,

interested

and

angels,

the

as

round

serious
yet

known
"

257

SKY.

ITALIAN

attendant

two

small

AN

details,

aptly

and

called

was

ling
thrilwhile
the

258

"

wail

the

those

from

the

air

the

subtle

gathered

around

the

it

made,

into

Florence.

The

to

us

as

night

in

the

and

for

the

"

quiet,

extravagant

beautiful

the

Quattro

day,

next

few

"

days'

well

We

went

resolving
sojourn

we

there

to

the

purposed

haste

we

fair

recommended

situated,

lodgings
making.

ere

and

for

accordingly
take

1504

entered

and

highly

was

hotel,

all

Saturday

d'Arno,

Val

comfortable

charges.

With

of

in

born

was

the

in

house

the

else.

Nazioni

field.

the

evening

"stream

the

for

look

clasp

over

Petrarch

the

with

tenacious

its

from

anything
in

late

fill

to

not

Roman,

bridge

trophy

which

despair

and

dwelt.

little

to

visit

to

was

descended

as

in

Orto,"

were

we

off

was

seemed

which

fastened

remembered

unable

but

it

we

del

Sobborgo

of

stones

bore

and

Arezzo,

At

"

rough

It

panic-strickeD

hopelessly

most

had

that

ivy

some

blood,"

thoughts

my

the

shame

conquered

the

was

invader,

of

with

it

of

cry

wiles,

Carthaginian

by

Yes

Hie

of

scene

conquest,

sympathy

my

legions,

invincible

once

entangled

and

excited

thousands,

dying

the

of

of

glory

conqueror,

chief

the

was

the

not

was

that

the

of

it

confess

slaughter,

SKY.

ITALIAN

AN

supposed,

is

it

where,

Saiiguinetto,"

laurels

UNDER

NATURE

AND

ART

on

not

that

day,
Mon-

completely

So

make

the

mind,

with

few

than

which

of

These

reached.
of

old

the

he

of

of the

masters

the

much,

unbroken

series, fromCassar

found

generally

different
with

is

Of

is

Opposite,

then

the

on

infantine

his

dark

stop] ted

for

Michael

Angelo,
reading

work

ever

it

he

but,

have

is

there

legible

of

as

seen

tures.
fea-

sinister

and

characters

that

on

and

one

on

awakened

the

child,

delicate

first,

had

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26]

SKY.

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262

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263

SKY.

ITALIAN

AN

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204

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26H

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270

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from

be

Florence,

crowded,
a

push

to

natural

but

in

menon
pheno-

visit.

to

on

to

there

where

anxious

were

agreed

day's journey
likely

Mala,

had

we

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we

secured
done

at

the
so,

mined
deter-

once

services

for

the

of

path

UNDEK

only rugged

not

was

than

anticipated,

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first

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circular

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not

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dark

seems

no

spot

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tell

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imaginative,

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better

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scenery
and

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ready

than

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much

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barren

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retraced

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our

probably,
have

should

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for

vegetable

on

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Mala,

stop

reasons

danced
as

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impression

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there

eye,

gloamiri

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we

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Covigliajo.

little

too

and
now

wooded
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still

variety,

the

of

"

courtesy

deep

dark

good

lay

till

Tuscan

notwithstanding

"

all

flames

morning

far

the

in

stood

of

the

me

on

accommodation

with

building,

with

inn

next

mountains,

but

was

crowded

more

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from

exuding

elfish

the

towards

steps

we

as

hillside, watching
charmed

give

grand

fiery spot

they

why

would

the

should

flames

most

and

uninstructed

reason

no

this

and

flame,

is

of

nothing

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"

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surface

lambent

of

is

It

stones,

mysterious,

the

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gases

imbedded

here

matter

the

of

scientific

of

us

is

when

the

alcohol.

there

greater

dusk

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appearance

those

much

loose

tongues

to

easy

legno."

with

blazing

the

means

was

di

across.

little

side.

why
in

continually

in

in

Fuoco

covered

is much

mountain's
reason

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though

and

no

getting quite

feet

like

supernatural,

the

the

twelve

or

yet there

terrible,

of

by

village

was

ground,

motion

singular spectacle
and

it

numberless

up

and

colour

in

of

ten

shoot

this

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than

more

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in

came

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from

271

SKY.

difficult,but

and

distance

The

distinguish.

ITALIAN

AN

for

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that

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to

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Dogana
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inward
met

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interesting,

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of

waste

Filigare,

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purpose,
on

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ravines,

Lojano

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territory.

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becomes

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with
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they
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"2~-2

AND

\KT

NATURE

requiring

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of

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reach,

Adriatic,

like

visible

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wide

the

winding

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of

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also

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protection
would

one

the

city

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houses

populous

most

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is

the

the

storms

city

ancient

flourishing

and

to

heat

of

streets,

of

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three

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others

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old

and

heavy.

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hotel,

part

streets

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regards

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shops
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than

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each

affording

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liarity
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on

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archway

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must

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streets,

the

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conveniently

the

are

from

gleam

stands

handsome

from

very

the

where

drove

the

to

the

river

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they

suppose

of

parts

and

observes

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grateful

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wide

only

not

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below

out

occasional

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of

spread

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( 'lunch.

stranger

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side,

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its

entering
the

of

of

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capital

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plains,

Savenna.

states

Ou

horizon

fertile

and

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on

chain

streak

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light,

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exceedingly

arc

can

eye

the

Alps

skv.

upon

of

points
far

Stretching

ITALIAN

drags

various

striking.
distant

AN

additional

from

here,

views

UNDEB

more

public

galleries.
Thanks

at

eleven

to

Pietra

o'clock

the

Mala,
in

of

arrangement

the

we

were

morning,

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enabled

thus

previous
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securing

night's

arrive

long

soon

day.

ters
quarafter

BOLOGNA.

of

the

glory

and

pupils

they

greatest
the

called

Caracci,

in

painter

second

in

the

new

for

Of

world

the

the

these,

who

the

teenth
six-

entirely

produced.

Domenichino,

was

greatest

remarkable

were

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over

its

an

and

illustrious

of

period

the

constellation

introduced

painting,

of

one

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the

who

century,

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the

with

began

of

boasts

genius.

epochs,

is

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brightest

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celebrated,

most

"'

School

Bolognese

he

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second

only

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in

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cino,
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arranged,
works

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of

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Arte

consisting

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is

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this

of

and

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directed

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collection,

the

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placed

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school.

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steps

our

chiefly

artists

is

appreciated

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various

him

to

thoroughly

Guido,

we

Accademia

be

to

of

pupil

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mirably
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school.

great

measure

chronologically.
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painting,

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where

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single
subject

instance

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in

physical

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suffering,

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look

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dis-

27

ART

gusl
is

admirable, yet

Martyr
thai

at

rivets

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in

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the

viz., the

It

cipal
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the

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characterizes
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upon
she

bodily suffering

consolation

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all

figures,

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eye

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forget

heavenly

in

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scholars,

has

Santa

delineation,
tints.

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visit

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single

page

"The
"

for

been

added
I

likeness

stantly
in-

was

with

only

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bears

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for

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one

to

this,
them

the

dreamy

suggest

the

Sibyl"

I
;

hour
mental

they
in

unfold.
the

several

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filling up
"Abraham

Borghese

was

softness
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of

these

there

some

half

it

powerful

think

whereas
of

which

"

seldom

the

pictures

Vatican

before

the

away

transparent

or

very

accords

the

beauty

even

in

bears

in

and

sense

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stood

their

of

recall

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which

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all

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to

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those
I

execution,

instance,

"

gorgeousness

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in

me

and

from

and

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unless

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and

to

Bologna,

to

Cecilia.

the

affect
many

perception

intense

pictures

belong

extraordinary

are

When

described.
an

properly

countenance,

and

Gallery,

Sciarra

considered

some

Vatican.

the

subject, certainly

pleasing impression;

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by

noted

have

"

the

admiration,

the

own

find

me.

degrees.

warmest

more

"

pictures, equally powerful

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beautiful

to

the

in

this

but

beauty,

artist

Kosario,"

her

of

with

dear

this

Raphael's

of

gem

most

the

while,

which

productions

expressive

musing,

attention

Jerome

St.

struck

which

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del

treasures

precious

their

expression

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"Madonna

even

surpass

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the

the

masterpiece

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down,

must

distracting

you

of

number

vast

Domenichino.

by

her.

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by

the

gaze,

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elevated

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in

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one.

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Agnes,"

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large picture containing

;i

lias

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the
"

NATURE

AND

are

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of

history
ing
dismiss-

Palace,

are

276

ART

from

before

the

hands

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her

by
he

take

cruel

wild

has
of

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one

itself
more

another

at

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flown!

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long

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her
is

form

in

brought

enough

hair

nearly
;

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all

scious
uncon-

the

shock

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distinct

her

eyes

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vivid,

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tragedy,
rise

all

memory,

up

agony

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this

city

remark

latter.

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as

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I

anew.

up

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us

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the

portion

first

of

was

the

palates
mouthful

"

lap,

it !

Bologna

the

"

"

yet

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her

on

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hope

to

more

over

from

the

unsophisticated

enough

still
"

lies

are

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and

ordered

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ere

that

whose

and

feeling, hope,

"

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the

upon

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back

probably

was

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lies

calm

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thrust

no

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was

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throne

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at

looked

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despair

her

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sausages."

for

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Beckford

Mr.

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whom

phase

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and

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pitiless

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could

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on

"

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as

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NATURE

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ment.
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smell
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than
we

UNDER

changed

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of

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and

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till

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our

street,

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the

for

sound

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light

place

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the

strong

returned,

performers

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to

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pleasing

more

hotel.

retired

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the

time

raw-

wearied

out,

us

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of

tempted

with

of

combination

room

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stiletto.

delight,

evening
deep

how

vile

the

contrasted

remarked

we

music

The

the

from

moonlight

SKY.

ITALIAN

sent

disgrace

were.

we

gleaming

our

in

brilliant

though
of

garlic

and

meat

and

plates,

our

AX

to

near

of

doors,

windows

to

open

midnight

the

sweet

FERRARA.

).

between

country

he

remarkable

certainly

for

also

natural

beauty

of

levels

of

the

the

parallel

with

myriads

of

exert

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within

of

and

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of

most

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streets

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and
gay,
We

Ferrara.

traveller;

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could

have

lungs.
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ously
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sound

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peopled

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of

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and

compass

side,

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the

numbers,
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harshness,
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and

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rows

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morning
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supposed

voices

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miles

the

their

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for

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with

them,

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by

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in

of

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eye.

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markable
re-

of

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those

distance

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one

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stretch

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stiff

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shade,

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with

plain,

tantalizing

of

as

want

interest

to

lines

straight

total

is

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fertility,

its

for

Ferrara

and

Bologna

noticed,
the
grass

the

passed
but

in

now-

several

growing

ART

luxuriantly
between

the

on

the

to

Royal

You

drive

which

"

Mori,"
the

under

but

few

once

"

believe

surrounded

dingy,

We

arch

apartments
now

far

and

visible.

time-worn

court

innumerable

noble,

while

description

Tre

279

SKY.

ITALIAN

any

spacious

are

and

elegant

of

inn,

into

gateway,

corridors, off

AN

pavement,

vehicles

principal

Palace.

immense

UNDER

untrodden

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were

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NATURE

AND

of

by

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open

less
doubt-

once

"

comfortless,

and

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time

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but

glance

them.

The

exterior

by

not

and

beautifully

the
is

the

of

Life

the
We
the

object

great
Tasso's
St. Anna

is

removed
fact

of

different

popular

this

to

this

other

out

authorities
tradition

the

two

but

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have

the

door

venerated

as

of

the
he

cage

given

points

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to

Tasso's

this

as

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the

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poet's

finement.
con-

immured

was

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out

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to

on

city

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after

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place

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contiguous

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ancient

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little

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this
A

the

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for

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churches,

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Ferrara.

curiosity

madman

alleged

the

pointed

In
an

of

prison,

"

of

of

none

I could

surmounted

subjects.

in

Virgin
of

Madonna

visited

sacred

imposing

divided

the

of

any

which

gable

fine

of

fore
there-

of

an

circular

representing

"

the

is

with

very

other

and
of

statue

miraculous

are

preserved

Christ,

colossal

porch

and

opinion

front

pointed

place

architecture

The

in

the

nothing

School

edifice, with

portions,

equal

do

Ferrarese

own

my

Gothic

admire.

terminating
On

even

peculiarities of

three

pinnacle.
been

is

means

into

each,

give

in

could

we

the

of

found

be

to

are

to

with

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very

specimens

Cathedral

any

towers

still

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few

unable

am

was

the

at

that

Painting,
I

here

which
it.

as

he
As

to

was

the

imprisonment,
opinions
such

and

but
in

280

A.RT

these

the

cases,

hand

the

on

honoured

Another

of

Maria

Santa

which

and

romance

of

forsook

he

this

too

his

own

literary

meet

it

in

give

fell

in

brities
cele-

long

not

much

form

He

came

but

dedicated,

with

ago,

of

sonnet

for

me,

was

ing.
feel-

devotional

in

of

study

atmosphere

apparent

translated

habited
in-

long

the

surprised

as

the

Near

1533.

first

is

genius

was

pursuing

was

well

so

which

congenial

in,

as

with
the

he

more

pleased

to

of

of

sons

Ferrara.

died

purpose

the

for

which

prepared

uot

with

other

house
he

wdiich

to

in

the

which

the

poetry.

poet,

of

joyment,
en-

own

by being

spot,

Italy's

interest

in

and

profession

"

his

mar

written

those

among

stands

for

university
the

law

to

the
is

cell,and

special

by Ariosto,
the

of

name

name

with

recalled

('lunch

to

the

not

there.

also

are

also

Byron's

of

wall

wisely

interest

the

lessen

sceptical.

learnedly

does

Btranger

and

NATURE

AXh

which

noted

it

down.

"

shall

How

If while

heart

My
Do

Though
Eternal

Erring

Is

Ferrara

Italy,
to

the

from

even

of mine

pardon

the

nor

good

?
send.

help deny
went

have

mine

from

eyes

evil

been

smit

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offenders, being penitent,

ours

drag

to

them

Themselves

resisting, Lord

was

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one

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with

call,

rescue

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that

Whence

long!

so

spare

glorious

associated

eh

darkness,

With
To

rod,

high,

on

all, Thy

power

every

ascend,

liberty contend

knowest

wln"

seat

deliverance

Thy

that

against

Thou

Tin-

to

for

lips

my

lifeless prayer

and

Mercies,

of

Father

fold

my

work

of

its past,

decided
the
did

the

is Thine

pit,
alone."

places peculiarly interesting

those

given

from

encouragement

Reformation.
we

forget

Nor
one

whose

and

in

impulse

among

giant

those
mind

UNDER

energies

powerful

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of

those

than

Calvin

found

under

the

Louis

XII.,

under

the

who

for

of

admittance

at

and

is

Ferrara
both

ages

in

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follow

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to

from

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route

fertile

of

level

level

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of

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dark

those

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unsympathizing

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connected

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of

alike

were

and

for

the

gated
congre-

bold

is

the

and

commerce

confess,

morning

city

of

and
I

the

lifeless

Monselice

country.

generations,

we,

lay through

Ferrara

Wealth,

court

adieu,

bid

bygone

with

history.

intellectual

Nor

and

remarkable

town

glory

melancholy

from

and

during

her.

example,
this

the

interest

were,

the

but

departed

has

political

nobility

and

genius,

of

the

to

sorry
after

our

past.
monotonous

same

prettily

picturesque

situated

little

position

of

"

its

Castle

for

swarms

in

its

"

much

of

place

In

ing
frown-

its

community

deeds

walls,

it,

stern

the

the

with

the

perpetrated.

often

been

have

tell,

its

around

ripple

which

with

beneath

and

fortress,

gloomy

which,

some

of

doors

around

command.

despotic

of

that

save

connexion

all

from

tyrant,

faith

drawbridge,

the

iron-clenched

moat

like

of

daughter

Protestant

cross

Palace,

isolated,

town,

to

the

dark

deep

1535,

Reformer.

us

Ducal

the

to

great

induce

ancient

or

the

the

not

did

battlements,
midst

of

of

lienee,

convert

ends

John

months

some

Duchesse

herself

was

higher

refinement.

or

during

the

far

to

wisdom
hero

of

instructions

Castle,

huge

world's

protection

thunder

and

consecrated

asylum

an

281

SKY.

ITALIAN

were

this

curiosity

Our

AN

its

an

upon
of

vipers

neighbourhood.

overhanging
winch

infest

rock,
every

and
bank

remarkable
and

ruined

also
wall

PADUA.

another

fter

meadows

through

drive

monotonous

and

intersected

level

with

canals,

swamps
arrived

we

day,

city,

having

and

the

upon

The

of

irregular

and

the

learned

of

most

from

them.

the
many

which

open
the

that

ground

bestow

to

and

the

peculiar

villas

ancient

make

to

hours

the

in

early

yet

three

or

of

are

waste

streets

two

forth

environs

spaces

Being

curiosities

sallied

we

Padua.

at

occur

among
here

straggling

seem

Co

and

there

without

definite

any
of

appearance
than

extent

partially
the

it

The

stretching
walls

city

Padova

is

large

else

or

totally
of

extent

be

of

one

swept

of

much

larger

that

has

Beyond

away.

uncultivated

and

the

been

of

closed
unen-

English

side.
away

and

mi

every

fortifications

lint

shew

Porte"

ruins

to

the

gives

appearance

which

somewhat

ruins

la

to

the

and

having

dilapidated

"

attained

there

land,

doums,

has

This

plan.

designed

originally

destroyed,

houses

remain,

city

was

few

some

that

not

are

the

towers

once

misapplied.

little

now

and

proud

more

gateways

appellation

than

still

of

28

ART

that
to

these

in

railway

(lie venerable

old

Grothic, and
The
i;i

the

ceiling,
the

It i 'is,

the

in

of

would
and

small,

mystical

strange

walls.

The

and

latter

though

by

lame

of

damage

some

of
At

Livy,

restore

the

block

The

the

born

at

called

to

public

held

chief

as

is what

;
less

not

cause

of
served
pre-

occasioned

these

paintings

with

cations,
personifi-

the

is called

claim

as

Abano.

Moral

Lapis

the

native

Opposite

Virtues,

during

to

as

the

Monument

of

Vituperii,

required,

ignominy,

on

their

this

certain

territory,

is

which

of

the

sal tie

insolvent

time,

condition

on

art, in

Padua,

to

which

sit

they

cleared.

attraction

erected

hall

the

formerly

were

he

of

astrology,
of

Giotto

character

have

might

compartments,

Paduans

the

stone

exposed

the

the

wonderfully

prevailing subjects
and

of

original

antique

that

upon

upon

marred,

been

pressive
im-

an

and

work

the

these

cast

painted

by

have

casualties

astronomy

of

of

top

been
of

and

being

windows

chamber,

and

and

beauty

to

to

hundred

The

the

than

open

almost

one

sufficient

been

of

comparison,

devices

them

is

Seasons.

whom

debtors

miglit

with

and

with

mixed

immense,

more.

damaged

are

evident,

The

even

is

down

in

lofty

have

respect

imposing.

roof,

are

echoing

and

to

the

repeated

some

the

having

church

to

destruction.

in
and

them

still most

connected

are

of

itself, yet

amid
their

said

the

length

light

vast

figures

are

attempts

are

many

the

in

at

afford

just

and

hall

less

guessed

through

gloom
the

be

quaint

reach

the

feet

being

style

of
which

of

hundred

; while

once

of

last

this

The

covers.

concave

in

greatly pleased

were

at

extremities

three

breadth

very

the

proportions

measurements

arc

effect

rather

The

little short

it

yield

to

We

which

general

or

have

station

hall

lower

floor.

feet

it should

days

many

NATURE

AND

within

to

the

the

lover

ancient

of

Roman

is

amphitheatre

little

"

as

UNDER

its

is

It

of

the

decorated

the

especial
of

many

the

them

The

ideas

lived

the

do

to

hasty

that

several

from

Last

in

feel

always

the
the

such

that
the

welcoming

the

here

just

of

Book

subjects
of

the

in

idea

general

be

artist's

"white

robes,"

is

our

taken

seems

removed
and

proper

could

Lord,

our

in

even

the
I

in

representation

above

space

paintings

Far

pencil,

of

figure

their

the

Revelations.

to

to

days

and

which

of

was

devote

time

is

who

require

powerfully,

entrance

scenes

latter

to

if
of

from

and

the

the

his

of

by Dante,

time

even

me

the

of

it woidd

account

struck
Over

province

acknowledge

detailed

them.

at

fact,

were

adopted

Bible,

while

little

unable,

them

Judgment,

legitimate

in

pencil

composition

artist

Giotto,
so

who

many

the

his

frescoes

the

that

to

had

am

any

of

expressions
I

give

to

glance

the

We

the

account

which

Titian,

from

it is said

chapel, which,

allow,

it, though

taken

are

with

work.

in

Arena."

on

These
of

copies

suggested

were

justice to,

would

delight

house

the

wonderful

and

and

same

in

engaged

as

books

with

its interior.

and

della

Chapel,"

frescoes

of

subjects

depicted

in

this

studies

as

apocryphal

and

whole

"Annunziata

Giotto's

elaborate

admiration

works.

own

and

beautiful

the

"

called

285

SKY.

of the

Chapel

"

usually, however,

has

of

the

Wears

name

ITALIAN

AN

but

not

receiving

and

grand

very

and

solemn.
The

general

divided

into
from

the

beautiful,
series

second

life of
and

paintings

The

three.

traditions
and

of

series

first

the

legends.
in

both

contains

the

outline

life
of

has

grievously injured,

fresh

and

perfect.

The

many
but

Resurrection

of

of

however,
and

of the
in

are

tical
ecclesiasvery

ing
touchThe

This,
and

figures
these

Lazarus,

is

dents
inci-

execution.

others
of

chapel
and

from

Lord.

our

the

scenes

principally

conception

and

been

"

sides

contains

Some,

colouring

even

series

Virgin

the

on

in

the

groups,
are

which

quite
forms

286

ART

the

division,

ninth
the

of

body

bands

and

cerements

of

Saviour

brought

thus

the

history

of

The

his

be

other

description,
kinds,
On

so

but

the

leaving
at

of

the

ordered

sending

enjoy,
all

hand,
other
the

out

Station,

at

could

we

in

our

events,

not

that

the

catch
his

and

the

return,
not

of

dolce
little

are

of

any

derneath
un-

various

of

them.

to

the

to

the

train

to

to

of

Padua,
which

starting
of

idea

all

back

for

fixed

hour

down

need.

two

interesting-

figures

far' niente,
in

by

less

afternoon

horses

burial,

compartments

back

drove

and

carriage,
to

faithfulness,

Hurrying

the

of

and

the

and

Jesus,

its

position
com-

Giotto's

all

of

for

abandon

to

churches.

time

stood

had

finest

body

the

scenes

represents

the

examine

found

we

which

other

of

ear

of

the

symbolical
to

cold

magnificently

of

subjects

stay

avc

that

of

majesty

countenances

are

and

chapel

Ferdinando
till

force

containing

allegories

"

"

close

any

series,

all

mother
the

to

There

performances.

dull

the

awe-struck

continuation

the

receive
in

the

master-piece

of

to

calm

considered

is

given

the

the

me

this,

the

unrivalled,

this

Of

some,

about

are

is

Cross

expression

who

to

series

affliction

deep

characteristic

to

seemed

the

by

even

of

were,

life, with

into

by,

voice

it

as

him,

Btanding

Lord.

from

act,

wit

around

grave

The

composition.

awaking

and

whose

our

indeed,

thought

the

third

"

disciples

of

to

The

Deposition

works.

death

responded,

out.

the

from

of

SKY.

fine

the

in

figures

himself,

lias

deatli

the

ITALIAN

AN

remarkably

man,

fetters

countenances

the

is

entombed

oft* the

casting

UNDER

NATURE

A.\l"

seeing

hotel,

we

Railway
Venice
there
the

;
to

latter,

VENICE.

the

'( es

idea

train

In

Venice

to

AVhat

however,

impatience,

our

unpoetical

an

we

were

little

disposed

took

gladly

'

the

and

the

gave

me

the

were

quite
both

The

hung
with

to

after

refreshing,
in

thick

down

gladness,

her

and

of

neck

almost

and

the

to

other

several

disagreeable

gesticulations,
side

of

the

riage.
car-

child-like

perfect
affected

her

at

me

coarse,
violent

the

to

Italian,

manner

and

forward
ance,
appear-

manner

masses

and

with

glances
hand

sundry

cross

simplicity

sweet

lady-like

her

voices

loud

excuse

Her

of

ingress

their

an

kissed

one

in

was

carriage

admiring

my

had

little

with

Italians,

with

was

dren
chil-

mother,

same

pleasing,

we

loveliest

her

the

as

carriage,

the

with

of

gentle,

delighted

when

times,

division

latter,

seemed

of
one

who,

seen,

second

The

child,

have

and

advance.

rapid

our

with

it

comfortable

anticipated

fascinated

quite

in

seats

our

with

quarrel

to

dress,

silky

her

made

black

soft,

one

so

usual

hair

sweet,

merry

in

children

curled

naturally,

dark

to

abroad.

beaming

eyes,
look

and

and

at,
"

yet

ART

their

thoiightfulness, when

earnesl

less

not

beautiful.

whom

I tried

history

to

and

present

told

the

glory departed
the

can

of
of

days

the

of

the

which

Napoleon's
but

and

shortly
We

out.

conducts

the

rose

Adriatic."

and

few

her

on

conversing,

at

were,

railroad
while

asked

the

about

domes

moment,

beyond,

"

very

minutes

and

little

and

stood

on

arranged

about

of

conduct
is

anything

such

wanton

their

and

her

ments,
orna-

and

the

us

to

bid

of

the

the
to
one

the

water,

"Bride

adieu

verge

from

sea

from

out

of

which

viaduct

the

look

and

place

raised

across

took

the

pression
im-

the

rapidly advanced,

minarets

had

the

power,

literally rising

of

justified.

miles

time

of

take

on

two

more

child,

be

to

me

with

sacrilegious despoiling

had

we

the

proceedings

treasures

ground

in

spoke

there,

of

abuse

art, such

any

friend

my

fair

campaign

their

and

complicated

Certainly,

their

of

is

pomp

she

Venice.

Italy gives

of

as

how

existed

the

to

of

galleries

thus

the

mainland,

works

that

up

is exciting

her

the

past

institutions, expressing

regard

frequent

surely

Meanwhile,
very

of

even

cannot

in

during
Such

churches

and

with

of

Venetian,

customs

whole

the

favourable.

of

they occupied

army,

destruction

Councils
a

Alas!
what

of

cruelty

in

feelings

when

French,

old

their

overthrow

its

lighted

from

days

of

"

was

with

also,

face

apart

and

natural

her

strongly

the

mother

pride.

bygone

smile,

to

of Venice

of

yet,

injustice,

was

as

the

whole

days

these

in

memorable

two

enthusiasm

its

regret

tyranny,

with

her

And

now.

one

However,

most

of

imagination

splendour,
system

; and

state

ceased

spoke

We

something

me

Bhe

pleased

was

converse.

Bhe

to

NATURE

AM'

of

the

terminus.
the

mother

the

of

"

broad

canals.

Having
the

numerous

boatmen

who

passports,
offered

and

their

settled

with

services, we

one

of

stepped,

UNDER

for

the

quite

first

the

realize
of

absence

ordinary

being

use

has

Kogers

traveller

all

hue,)"

done

such

on

of

There
The

is
sea

ami

'lings

No

the

to

of

to

her

Invincible
As

to

And

the

"

our

first

Still

glowing

found

but

the

of

the

most

lies

with

of

in

wretched

the

we

the

priate
appro-

the

miliar
unfa-

sea,

in

in

dream.

dome.

sky,

at

hues

of

shattered

Russia

run

apartments

o'er."

in

ourselves

finding

by

Owing
that

them,

art,

enhanced
rooms.

"

had

them

pride,

had

Time

richest

not

of

and

entering

the

Eastern

within

wealth

getting

Empress

to

went

azure

an

though

were

pen

beautiful

merchant-kings

delight

our

graphic

fro,

o'er

many

than

more

some,

the

though

all

of

and

acceptable

stately portico

along

in

poetry

weed

sea

and

to

as

by

many

residence

impressions

we

arrival

the

fronts

of

spite

In

pile

many

the

streets.

salt

land

streets

ranged

statues

The

of

palaces.

path

"

and

in

narrow

the

silently

"

The

As

the

the

her

up

Mosque-like,

"f old

the

the

first

sea

floating city," steering

smoothly

By

the

footsteps

from

ami

gliding

The

in

her

of

gates

with

in

on

(those

awnings

ever

on

and

no

is

vance,"
ad-

"

marble

men,

as

their

place.

embodied

broad,

flowing

trade

Lead

So

in

and

think

glorious city

reclines

one

keeping

sensations
:

The

them.

appearance"

strange

Venice

is

Ebbing
"

what

own

precincts

"

this

occasions,

lines, one's

which

on

in

of

vessels

swift, noiseless, gliding

black,

is

with

forms

funereal

painted

associated

mystery

dark

graceful little

one

the

seats,

the

even

sombre

same

of

luxurious

and

"

These

ideas

motion,"

289

SKY.

gondola.

romantic

felt

all

the

sofa,

into

time,

ITALIAN

AN

very

seemed

the
to

Venice,
culty
diffi-

extreme

the

day,
taken.

expected

every
For

place
two

290

ART

hours
to

hotel

stands
less

are

the

front

mi

As

the

soon

Alas,

arrived.

one

of

of the

had

landed

we

which

different

the

make

may

only

the

town.

buildings,
impression

the

of

recall

the

entire

ideal,

Ducal

the

prisons

national

of

cupolas

mosaics,

Marco,

San

vivid
tin.1

green,

purple, yellow,
gilt

constitute

the

of

bronze
a

all

of

The

the

over

magic

transparent
the

central

splendour

state,

religion,
trated
concen-

domes
and

antique

richest

Doge,

of

here

pinnacles

of

her

officers

are

"

the

eve

national

of

frescoes,

almost

horses
vision

token

to

seems

Palace

columns

and

powerful

The

glittering

of

the

the

high

it

as

different

the

before

glance.

one

of

place

her

dering,
wan-

pictures

Marco

San

power

splendid

work,

portal,

every

the

colours

gothic

celebrated

to

of

within

brought

the

and

the

is that

scene

lessen

can

we

sages,
pas-

some

thousand

Piazza

The

national

and

rather

or

position

certain,

"

dignity,
and

and

criminals

her

abated,

after

as

had

between

us,

What

mansions

the

Chapel,
of

led

speak, of Venice.

to

so

little

communication

form

history,

post-office.

expected

streets,

Familiar

am

letters
a

narrow

land

reality.

whole

the

the

bitant
exor-

tage
advan-

took

the

to

had

heat

stranger

nothing,

of

Marco.

the

which

the

paid

course,

sent

These

San

with

one

look

that

canals

and

of

we

none

the

the

Piazza

upon

of

the

as

rooms
back-

its

others

of

Luggage,

strangers,

some

of

well,

was

even

gloomy

narrow

our

intense

form

and

Bianco,

city.

the

parts
to

bursts

of

Leone

far it

So

forced

were

we

the

those

than

the

disappointment

through

dull.

gondolier, who,

the

of

in

Canal,

into

Alter

walked

Grand

drear)'

arrival

sad

the

interior

as

the

rather

and

demands
of

hut

dark

"

intersecl

hack-room

lasl

till al

inn,

to

with

comfortable

tolerably

to

inn

ourselves

content

this

from

glided

we

NATURE

AM'

and

golden
fretted

marbles-

white,
arch

quite

of

the
the

incon-

292

A.RT

After

lined

with

from

the

gold,

the

of

mosaics

feels

one

admire

least

at

familiarized

it

interesting

inclined

more

to

the

with

its

seen

the

then
the

Strasbourg,

at

"

dome

recalling
and

and

the

have

often

Byzantine
Vain

be

would

which

objects

on

shore

marble

with
and
in

stone,

with

of Prophets

anon

executed
to

famous

from

by

Acre

alike

the
for

Gothic

the

work

Venetian

famous

the

mention

Evangelists
;

d'Oro,

Pala

splendour

strange

of

as

of

St.

inscriptions,
of

and

"

which
the

Mark's.

variety
a

many

now

rivalled
un-

such

endless

from

at

the

this

in

the

Trophies

and

Donio

splendour

gorgeous

bearing Syrian

tablets

Gothic

Peter's,

awe,

"

Cologne,

at

to

exhibited

falls.

eye

Antwerp,

admiration

the

have

the

St.

of

describe

to

I find

Sienna,

turn

allegorical representations,

1 omit

must

attempt

the

purple porphyry

and

its

the

admire

to

noble

of

of

each,

architecture

of

style

the

and

sensation

the

by

Pisa

to

No

of

of

majesty

mingles

excited

be

work

fully

Europe,

cathedrals

beauty

of

peculiar

experienced,

but

cannot

edifices

it is

becoming

magnificence

dream-like

haps
per-

magnificence.

solemnity

building.

unfamiliar

and

stupendous

feelings

after

fairy tracery

and

the

does

various

"

palladian

the

Milan,

the

on

grandeur

height

than

one

Bui

in

else

wonder

mosque-like

the

of

mingling

imposing

"

pile

with

beginning

to

extent

back

look

to

anything

unlike

rich, yet

that

interior

being

its

Bhowy.

too

the

of

idea

exceedingly

is

is not

sees

one

"

more

effect

light, it

totally

so

the

Cathedral.

the

entered

we

conveys

the

time

first

It is

think

Piazza,

while

of Btrong

the

appreciated,
1

the

and

absence

is not

it

that

round

walking

gilt ground

The

NATURE

ANI"

and

Pagan

of

distant
spersed
inter-

ology,
myth-

figures wrought

in

bronze,

goldsmiths
made

at

silver,
;

nor

nople,
Constanti-

its decorations

and

great antiquity.
We

did

not

stay

long,

as

we

were

impatient

to

enjoy

the

UNDER

of

delights
this

occasion,

impossible

rippling

tiny

the

noiseless

fanned

water

each

us

locality
the

of

abode

Foscari,

Lord

right,

We

attraction.
and
of

the

spent

It

assumed

sides,

tables

surrounded

ladies

and

gentlemen

determined

too,

the

of

one

for

those

full

though

only
that

balmy

Next

at

happy
for

the

morning,

at

his

letter

in

of

sent

we

enjoyed

to

delicious,
felt

air
till

Piazza

the

in

We,

possession

very

the

of

both

seats,

then

was

were

coffee.

taking

and

May,

arches

and

soft

so

the
and
and

o'clock,

ten

of

in

down

groups

ices

and

It

music.

where

surrounding

luxuries,

remained

we

its

week

second

to

expected
Venice.

military

the

returned

then

the

of

with

seasonable

most

band

Venetians

tables,

little

enjoying

were

be

to

chairs,

with

little

on,

ance.
appear-

and

the

of

the

period

characteristic

front

in

and

the

water,

later

up

to

object
the

this

the

went

upon

at

of

"

fresh

some

walking

people

he

so

hours

peculiarly

with

the

At

centre.

to

one

Piazza, which,

the

crowded

was

and

the

left,

the

"

three

than

more

to

had

day

bringing

oar

days,

to

on,

post-office;)

the

the

returned

then

the

of

strokes

few

farther

Palace,"

Byron's

other

in

out

this,

"

Palazzo

the

there,

families

mightiest

Correr, (now

Palazzo
each

the

of

pointing

attached,

was

Falieri,"

Marino

Doge

one

interest

the

from

air

gondolier, meanwhile,
an

through

darted

fresh

cool

able
enjoy-

more

we

It

city.

the

kind

the

which

the

while

which

to

of

with

rapidity

our

"

of

on

found

soon

we

thoroughfare

anything

waves,
;

gondola,

open

great

imagine

Choosing,

Canal.

Grand

or

the

into

to

the

than

the

on

barchetta

gliding

ourselves
is

evening

an

~',:"

SKY.

ITALIAN'

AN

and

hotel.

breakfast,

to

telling

Mr.

from

received,

we

our

of

us

great joy,

being

his

He

meeting
luggage,

joined
indeed
and

us

it

He

was.

securing

after,

immediately

almost

room

lost
in

time

no

the

Leone

in

and

sending
Bianco.

20

ART

Ere

long

since

had

we

homeward

our

Germany,

visiting,

of

towns

There

either

Lut,

The

is rich
to

i
"

the

the
of
of

his

though,

at

the

is

the

Fisherman

olden

Piazza

times,
as

and

of

by
witli

it

was

and

the

St.

satisfied

the

to

Gentile

is

Bellini, of

procession,
1496,

is

with

question

to

however

more,
"

Piazza

in

the

the

Marco

San

as

Old

The

found

interesting,

together

into

thrown

Ring

the

very

unpleasing,

Bordone,

the

"The

the

at

room

much

by Paris

Doge

horrible

the

Mark,

no

me

want

of, by

thought

energy

leave

and

Immediately

it is very

and

power

seems

subject being

the
"

by

donna
Ma-

by Raphael,

with

struck

only

the

colours

given

highly

very

lightness

others.

very

Slave

painting,

in

of

and

are

what

of

want

Altogether,

that

the

Virgin,

around

partakes

many

execution,

the

the

drapery

admirably

so

countenances,
One

view,

of

of

figures below,

large,

and

Venetian

presenting
A

that

to

Assumption

around

of

picture,

is

one

time,

force

to

as

Belle

far-famed

it inferior

the

it too

but

execution."

merit.

its great

ancient

the

to

this

of

here

light

picture

same

is

the

of

Foligno,

and

attitudes

gondola

thought

group

is

suspended

moment

the

heavy

first

At

deliverance

in

is

Titian's,

reality of

Lido."

whole

di

Tintoretto.

inferior

the

aerial, which

Madonna

opposite

the

of

figure

something

in

the

splendid,

and

The

grace.

celestial

colouring

fault

the

me

in

went

picture

of

grandeur

impressive.

Southern

the

Rhine,

the

paintings

line

The

Titian.

solemn

all

we

celebrated

Virgin, by

through

on

us

Bologna.

or

most

and

to

way

collection,

as

accompany

Wurtzburg.

and

many

Florence

The

the

arc

should

Tyrol,

the

our

o'clock

eleven

school;

on

Nuremberg

About
Arte.

by

mute

he

and

interests

mutual

many

that

arranged

adventures

mutual

our

over

and

Scotland,

in

had

friends, but

only talked

not

parted

we

MATURE

ANH

shewing

costume

of

UNDER

the

period

ground

we

daughter

the

with

it

still

were

of

in

of her

was

the

Belfry

the

Empress,

of

Campanile.

the

here

into

and

and

dark

the

turning

my

then

much

in

wall, managed

the

look

it without

from

advantage
would

not

from

and

the

and

first,we

posed
supwith

regal grandeur

time

those

on

of the

to

it,

see

bird's-eye

veins,
the

main

it is

We

devoted

could
this

clay

reluctantly
Having

found

the

obliged
W

repaired

have

Doge's

at
to

the

the

of

retrace

the

Cortile

out

this

of

elevated

lingered

part,

every

like

conspicuous

always

position is,
enable

to

one

palaces, churches,

different

our

view

complete

canals, which,

being

Palace

great

the

so

one

bring

various

much

can

particularly favourable

rays

too

which

I
situations.^

give

advantage

not

to

close

very

enjoying

can

is

Canal

Grand

willingly
to

missed

the

one

position

avoided

one

any
a

such

in

I do

morning

sufficiently, yet
the

nervousness"

other

Another

artery.

down

parapet

that

high

of
as

none

The

so

have

shews

well.

is

horizontal

the

as

it ; the

distinguish

"c.

suffer

The

view

intersect

top

account

city.

look

to

carefully

but

This

tower.

is

it

continuous

inner

an

awful

very

sensation

since

by

the

to

direction, and, by keeping

on

the

who

any

round

most

that

get

ascended

mounted

we

beneath

at

Campanile,

the
idea

to

gallery

to

and

well

eyes

by steps

deep

the

were

At

us.

woman,

greatly impressed

step,

First,

there,

surrounds

to

lore-

Olga,

beautiful

very

by

were

her

Mr.

early morning,

open

that

elose

and
of

dignity

is

as

the

Princess

the

Gallery,

Russia,

of

suite, passing

plane,

This

the

her

inclined

an

which

manner.

In

to

with

figures

in

Emperor

commanding

the

animated

the

-"''

SKY.

is filled.

While

came

in

ITALIAN

AN

while,

but

Galleries,

several

and

having

steps.

rendezvous,

place

of

of the

Palazzo.

we

mediately
im-

beautiful

290

A.RT

fountain
with

the

lions'

Scala

The

together.

leads

mouths,

As

it would

full

account

which

"La

of

the

numberless

Sala

notice.

delle

Quattro

Porte

The
in

which

the
is

national

and

into

of

Paul

of

this

Here

there

sat

with

lives

and

at

the

down

on

power

unconscious
how
are

dread

to

of

associations

and

fearful

tell the

would

the

hall,

an

instant

Oh,

be

its revelations

if that

with

lifeless

word

the

Vet

more

smaller,

after
Dieci.

depended
standing

are

they

as

were

faded

it endowed

it had

frame

were

dei

fancied

of which

mind

to

soon

Sala

"

longed
pro-

These

and

worn

tragedies

connected

bring

apparently just

cushions
for

were

chairs

very

original

speakers

others

lightest

The

morocco

of those,

witness

whose

on

Senato

its

Republic.

the

fine

del

the

but

bassadors,
Am-

some

of
for

shudder,

hall,

foreign

much

from

pointed.
disap-

this

Sala

not

different

thousands.

crimson

one

thrilling
the

tribunal

end

upper

could

with

alike

discussions

haughty

entered,

liberty of

the

used,

as

the

sat

the

last

forth,

when

"

very

well-known

with

The

few

from

adorned

contained

or

received

tribune

hour

like

name

all

opens

retaining

once

only

were

council

used

pleasing associations,and
railed

we

The

remain.

now

Titian's

Veronese.

from

midnight

days

is

dimensions,

candlesticks

the

glorious

his

arrangement.

the

even

the

noble

greatly,

me

character
nay,

of

paintings

interested

and

Doge

terrible

the

once

can

which

presence-chamber

finest

the

give anythingI

however,

blend

to

of

remarkable,

especial

which,

made

apertures

rooms,

of

with

been

to

themselves

in

were

diversified

most

were

the

is struck

one

constructed

only

quite impracticable

Fede;"

and

have

be

pictures deserving
the

which

the

where

d'Oro,

and

court,

which

Giganti,

Scala
of

but

either

In

with

dei

the

to

the

architecture

and

ornament

marble,

of

centre

perfeci harmony

of

If

m\

the

occupies

NATURE

AN1"

had

been

the

language,
terrible

the

"

Hall

still
of

UNDER

In

old.
or

of

reign

terror

"

Sala
its

took
and

seventy-four

that

it has

the

of

Consecrated

is said

of

Sword

to

buildings,
and

arches

in

hastily

more

various

by Palma,

"

The

Crusaders,"

led

the
on

powerful

Siege

picture,

And

as

lie was,

and

liis

blind
"

Stand

forth,

There

did

Though
For

in

wan

his

he

that

In
in

put

eyes

displaying
stand
his

prayers

on

erect

cheeks,
he

had

"

Passing

the

Rogers

Can

of
:

the

"

year,

did

Dandolo

"

his

the

crown

invincible
and
been

wet

cross.

with

weeping

many
much

subject

of

Constantinople

porch,

hundredth

the

beneath

Dandolo.
think

of

from

Bassano, Palma,

of

not

the

perspective

is admirable.

Conquest

pen

out

the

by

temple

his

delivering

arrested

and

on

particularly

figures placed

venerable

the

by
"

( "ld

the

of

One

interesting

Veronese,

and

by

on

drawn

portrait

Paul

particularly

was

animated

this

of

"

painted

was

while

situations,
by

several

over

Tintoretto,

one,

other

is most

Marco

it.

ever

Pope

It

groups

employed,

largest
I

first

the

adopt

to

think,

Eepublic

among
was

"The

Doge."
San

as

paintings

the

of

length.

Bassano's,

of the

and

in

feet

the

The

canvas

the

be

Mr.

regretted,

prosperity

earliest

to

Piazza

the

Museum.

which

the

being

one

being

scene

of the

look

in

oil-painting

with

be

interesting

are

passage,

fifty-four feet long,

and
to

and

of

as

are

communicated.

room

is

into

being seventy-four

pleased

by

It

of

relics

no

narrow

outside

hundred

and

school

is the

magnificent

power

however,

Venetian

canvas,

and

is

with

floor,which

and

Mouth

wide.

these, by Tintoretto,

the

Lion's

converted

commemorating

the

roof

one

feet

been

specimens

the

This

"Ten."

the
and

walls, however,

measurement,

yet remain,

ornament,

Consiglio"

del

of

that

any

the

which

throat, with

The

save

its side

of

one

of

297

SKY.

ITALIAN

beside

close

is destitute

apartment
its

is

which

Three,"

AN

tears,
;

yet

one

more

298

ART

Ami

With

thoBe

the

On

leaving

the

Churches

Salute, partly

of

quiet

half

Giovanni

greatly

is

the

in

of

brilliancy
once

Before

Palace,

Titians.

is the

well

Perhaps
as

evening

coffee, recruited
and

animated

presence

Of

the

of
actual

for

fortunate
of

the

after

than

Yenice

Empress
trial of

"

were

we

in
of

speed

her

in

else

the

between

the

eyes,

zest

An

ices

and

done,
most

(anal.

spectacle

It
this

gallery,

have

Grand

days.
owed

ments
orna-

her

of

could

witnessing

we

one

the

fatigue.

renewed
on

the

this

to

refreshment

palmy

Kussia

of

bodily

anything

regatta

two

lovely.

very

with

with

and

though

justice

the

enjoying

day

do

to

There

overestimate;

beauty

are

out

gondola,

next

characteristic

able

the

to

me

Dolce,

to

own

face,

worn

metre

me

scene

Singularly

me

prepared

her

very

are

enthusiastically

rare

her

see

ments
monu-

pictures.

Carlo

speaks

The

to

The

church,

of

lovely

the

tedious.

collection

eclipses
of

rejoiced

accompanied

Cyprus.

utterly
in

be

this

scarcely possible

hardly

were

spent

would

Byron

expression

was

in

very

almost

we

truth

in

of

Queen

the

as

it is

wears

buried

its

for

orna-

by

heightened

in Yenice.

Lord

which

she

as

famed

which

of

Ariosto,

other

Mr.

others,

among

are

description

any

returning.

Manfrini
saw.

who

San

of

exuberance

which

rare

very

refreshment

style, differing

is

windows,

are

Doges,

but

numerous,

an

which

the

effect

Maria

thither.

way

the

from

Its

painted

and

more,

to

the

our

nexi

Santa

the

Yeneto-Gothic

grandeur

Cathedral.

and

obtaining
on

proceed

to

Paolo,

gondola

!'"

agreed

we

of

peculiar

its solemn

in

ment

in

of rest

and

sake

wepl

hearts,

need

Palace,

for the

the

in

in their

Giovanni

hour

people

have

limhs

aged

Doge's

della
a

Baying

"

of San

the

and

pilgrims

admiration,

Surely

"

to

the

now

NATURE

ANH

was

to

so

the

gratification.

competing

gondolas

300

AKT

evening

it

of

enchantment

the

bright

sunset

of

glow

it

and

the

were,

just

crimson

as

still,indeed,

that

cold

float

to

the

enhance
followed.

than

tenderly

with

friendly

shade

once

of

beauty,

words

even

that

in

seemed

to

and

Strange,
those
San

indeed,

moonlit
Marco

Vet

not

awaken

imagination's

edifices

shone

lamps,
upon.

in

real

forth

colours

of

Every part

of

"

hour

sound

life

its
that

and
its

the

all

less

calculated

most

vivid

variecl
those

as

but

vast

looked

dealt

more

the

few

was

to

her

effects
the

were

upon

soft

of

and

us,

there

something

from

was

light

the

all

that

blend

with

play,

the

but
that

witching

the

illumination

brilliant

did

decay

refused

transition

it

that

accompaniments,

associations

beneath

as

ruin

not

beneath

Perhaps

that

Dark

bride, casting

"

the
to

the

and

was

waters,

havoc

it

commonplace

more

Adriatic

harsh

too

to

the

know

spell

scene

belong

light

of

seemed

evening

not

ruder

The

whisper

was

alone

spoke.

we

mellow

of

which

moonlight

the

was

or

of

touch,

suited

"

Yet

flood

tint

buildings

magic

rude

hour

the

ourselves

in

surface

gold;

twilight

vast

caught,

farewell

us,

the

east

burnished

around

that

Time's

alone

short

as

city.

and

queen.

glorious

glory

sky,

night's gentle

leaden

beneath

fallen

that

gloomy

the

Italian

its

waters

Perhaps

o'er

gorgeous

were

of

ever.

the

melancholy

and

their

Speedily,

fair

more

of

hues

like

of

of

radiant

domes

Lagunes,

dreams

our

sea

and

those

seemed

loveliness

over

into

reign

upon

wide

shone

the

it laded

twilight,

grey

an

and

on

ere

even

towers

ray,

briefly the

and

and

tallest

entered

we

but

seemed

the

parting

lingered,

delays

far

beauty

all

the

First,

lighted

ever

later,

surpassing,

Venice!

as

golden

minutes

lew

as

realizing, nay,

was

NATURE

ANIi

the
as

of

mosaic

buildings,

in
scene

those
many

stillness
the

of

Piazza
there

to

gorgeous
thousand

tints

they

shone

every

arch,

every

UNDEB

was

meteors

flashed
shed
in

inspiriting
the
and

square
of

passed

the
away

with

marked

window,

fireworks,

AX

honour

and

of

in

and

T.

CONSTAKJ.K,

fair

of

of

different

in
their

spectacle
Venice.

TO

Jill!

every

added

END.

PKISTEH

To

was

placed

in

light

around.

Empress,

gorgeous

evening

coloured
devices

enjoyment

THE

KIIINBl'KGn

and

bands

the

last

of

radiance

the

from

beautiful
our

sky,

dazzling

music,
;

the

in

lines

30]

SKY.

ITALIAN

V.\.U..-

delicious

around,

brilliant
in

kind
this
the

mination,
illumost

parts

of

strains,
quickly

R.

H.

The

Duke

The

Duchess

Sir

Miss

THE

OF

DUCHESS

KENT.

GLOSTER.

Palace,

Hamilton

Bart.,

Orde,

OF

DUCHESS

Hamilton,

of

John

H.

R.

Hamilton,

of

THE

H.

QUEEN.

THE

MAJESTY

HER

H.

SUBSCRIBERS.

OF

LIST

Lochgilphead

Kilniory,

Orde,
.....

The

Gumming,

Dr.

Rev.

Beckford,

Miss

Middleton,

Mrs.

Barwell,

The

Marquess

The

Marchioness

Stoneham

Russell

Earl

of

Isle

Castle,

Wight,
Castle,

Cholmondeley,
Hampstead,

End,

West

of

Cholmondely

Cholmondely,
of

of

The

Countess

of

Hall,

Sandon

Harrowby,
Harrowby,

ViUiers

Mrs.

The

Viscount

The

Viscountess

The

Lady

The

Marchioness

Mrs.

of

Orde,

The

Harley

Hants,

Cottage,

Dent,

Marquess

Charles

Avon

Esq.,

Dent,
Villiers

London,

Southampton

House,

The

Sq.,

Do.

Cowes

Miles,

Place,

Montague

7,

South

Mrs.

Mrs.

Esq.,

Fosbery,

V.

George

Northumberland,

Nunnekirk,

Esq.,
Canning,

10,

London,

Street,

Chapel

Huntly,

Grosvenor

Square,

Canning,
Stuart

de

Rothesay,

of

Waterford,

Maxwell,

of

Portrack,

Dumfries,

Loti

Cheshire,

Miss

Davidson,

Miss

H.

Davidson,

Miss

E.

Davidson,

Mrs.

Sperling,

SUBSCRIBERS.

OF

LIST

.....

......

......

Harvie

......

Esq., King

Farquhar,
Daniel

Rev.

St.

Street,

London,

James',

Camberwell,

Moore,

....

Duchess

The
Admiral

of

Dowager

Petersfield, Hants,

Lodge,

Ashford

Hawker,

Do

"Williams,

Lady
Miss

Hope,

Do

Mrs.

Boyles,

Do

Hope,

Rear-Admiral
Miss
Sir

London,

Square,

Grosvenor

Beaufort,

Hawker,

Lady

Dowager

Knighton,

Seymour,

Mrs
Rev.

Richard

Mrs.

Collins

The

Bart.,

Knighton,

William

Seymour,
Poore,
of

Duke
Duchess

The

Park

Somerset,
of

London,

Lane,

Somerset,
.....

Arcedeckne,

Mrs.

Duchess

The

Senior,

Dent,

Mrs.

M'Kinnon,

Robert

Sir

Grey,

Street,

London,

House,

Fair, London,

May

Esq., Twyford,

Honorable

Lady

Bedford,

Hertford

London,

Chesterfield

Do.

Trotter,

The

of

Dowager

Mrs.

Square,

Grosvenor

1,

George

....

Grey,

Bart.,

Eaton

Place,

London,

.......

The

Marquess

The

Marchioness

of

Abercorn,

House,

Chesterfield

London,

Abercorn,

of

....

The

Lady

The

Lady

The

Countess

The

Earl

Mrs.

Ducic,

Jermyn,

Borthwick,

The

Earl

The

Lady

The

Henry

of

.....

Belgrave

Square,

London,

......

Gcorgefield,

Langholm,

......

Selkirk,

William

Dowager

....

Russell,

Borthwick,

Colonel

Russell,

Wriothesley

Lady

St.

Mary's

Fitzroy,
Bloomfield,

Isle, Kirkcudbright,
....

Kingscote

Park,

Gloucestershire,

OF

LIST

SUBSCRIBERS.

No.

Large.

Kennaway,

Lady
The

Honorable

Mrs.

J.

Mrs.

G.

The
The

Escot

Lady

Elizabeth

The
Mrs.

Sargent,

Rev.

T.

Honorable

Mrs.

The

Honorable

and

The

Dean

The

Palace,

Oxford,

Sunningdale,

Parsonage,
Harris,
H.

Rev.

Lyttleton,

Chertsey,

Barclay,

Mrs.

George

Barclay,

Mrs.

Robert

Barclay,

Do.

Esq.

Hoare,
William

Mrs.

Esq., Southampton,

Hoare,

William

Hoare,

Do.

Do.

Smellie, Langholm,

Mr.

Wigram,

Captain

Orde,

Leonard

Mrs.

Baillie,

Mrs.

Stewart,

Miss

M.

Miss

C.

Mi^s

Honeyman.

5, Maitland

Mrs.

Thompson,

Carmichael,

Miss

Stewart,

Miss

C.

9, Donne

Terrace,

9, Doune

Waddilove,

Bart.,

Musgrave,

Musgrave,

John's

East

Lanark,

End,

....

Waddilove,

Dyott,

Edinburgh,

Street,

Carlisle,

Brayton,

Lawson.

Miss

Lady

Tally, Gatehouse,

Stewart,

George

Lawson,

Sir

Northumberland,

Hall,

Shoreston

Rev.

Lady

Do.

Berkeley,

Gurney

Joseph

Mary

Lady

London,

Asaph,

St.

Cuddesden

Mrs.

St.

Place,

Teddington

Arbuthnot,

Mrs.

Miss

Cottage,

Do.

The

of

Park

Bushy
Grosvenor

37,

Fosbery,

V.

London,

Orde,

Oxford,

of

0
0

Tunbridge,

Place,

Small.

....

Cornwall,

Bishop

Gloucestershire,

Phipps,

Lepel

Allan

Mary,

House,

Grosvenor

37,

Lady

Rev.

Hadlow

Gordon,

Wilder,

Ottery,

Copies.

Kingscote, Kingscote,

Mrs.

E.

St.

of

Terrace,
Eden

....

Torquay,

Wood

Ladies'

Edinburgh,

Society.

Edinburgh,

Hall,

Penrith,

SUBSCRIBERS.

OF

LIST

No.

of

Large.

The

Lady

Harriet

The

Hon.

Mrs.

Arthur

The

Hon.

Miss

Waldegrave,

E.

W.,

The

Lady

Carnegie,

Miss

Carnegie,

Rev.

David

Miss

Lecount,

Mrs.

The

South

The

Honorable

Mrs.

The

Earl

The

Countess

Mrs.

Grey,
F.

Lady

Dowager

Castle

Green

Miss

Owen,

de

Cooper,

de

o
i

Place, London,

II

London,

Square,

Grosvenor

Cork,

{)

Hall,

York,

0
.

0
.

Dorset,

Blandford,

0
.

House,
Portman

Clifton,

Square,

...

London,

Villeneuve,

Dorchester,

.....

Carnegie,

Dynevor

6, Chester

Hippesley,

Lady

Boroughbridge,

Villeneuve,

Elizabeth

The

7, Seamore

Camp

Pinney,

Countess

Countess

Mrs.

D.

Count

The

Place, London,

Hill, Boroughbridge,

Thornhill,

Miss

Hammerton

Boucher,

Mrs.

Mrs.

The

Barnard,

Spcllow

The

.....

Huntingfield,

Empson,

Charles

"

Calthorpe,

Mrs.

Mrs.

Bandon,

Ridley,

Robert

Somerset,

Eaton

14,

Grey,

Lady

Bandon,

Rev.

.....

Noel, Teeston,

The

Somerset,

Wincanton,

Lady

Honorahle

......

Honorahle

The

Rutland,

London,

Leamington,

Brewham,

Wharncliffe,

Frank

Yeovil, Somerset,

The

Mrs.

Eastment,
Lady

......

Lyon,

Thomas

....

House,

Dynevor

Mead,

Mrs.

Square,

Grey,

Countess

Dowager

Park, London,

Oakham,

Normanton,

19, Cavendish

Bentinck,

Miss

hy

London,

Street, London,

Brook

Upper

London,

Eegent

Small.

Gardens,

Square,

4, Park

Heatheote,

Lady

Honorahle

The

Park

Hyde

Kinnaird,

30,

Square,

19, Cavendish

Bentinck,

Seymour,

Hugh

Mrs.

Rectory, Dorset,

Thornford

Dampier,

E.

Charles

Eev.

Copies.

of

Anne

Scott, Church

Square,

House,

Leamington,
.

London,
.

Rosebery,

Tuffnell,

House,
Arlington

The

Countess

of

Zetland,

The

Countess

of

Clanwiiliam,

The

Countess

Bruce,

78, Pall

Street, London,

Mall, London,

Mrs.

Scott,

Mrs.

Thomas

Buccleuch

The

Marchioness

The

Countess

The

Lord

Marquess

The

Duke

Grenfell,

Charles

Craven,
.

Molyneux,
Esq.,

Grenfell,

Miss

The

Molyneux,
Eglintoun,

of

Countess

Esq.,

Harington,

Robert

Castle,

Langholm,

Hamilton,

Hamilton

Mrs.

Eglintoun

Esq., Brighton,

Hamilton.

Hamilton

Esq., Westerker,

Fairbairn,

James

Mrs.

"

Louisa

Lady

The

West

Grange,

Edinburgh,

Harington,

Friend,

Worsley,

Rev.

Dr.

Mrs.

Worsley,

The

Lady

Esq., Auchincruive,

Oswald,

Alexander

Oswald,

Louisa

Westerkirk

Parish

Library,
.

Tcddington,

Mrs.

Benson,

Mrs.

Hamilton

Mrs.

Fillcul, Jersey,

Mrs.

Frederick

Mrs.

Newnham,

Mrs.

Dclmar

Forsyth,

Clifton,

E.

Wilkinson,

Bristol,

Wills,

Guildford,

Thompson,
Esq.,
.

E.

Crompton,

Dr.

Roscoe,

Dr.

Parish,

Mrs.

London,

Park,

Regent's

Terrace,

of

Katherine

Lady

The

Cambridge

House,

Castle, Rutland,

Belvoir

Dowager

Countess

Lansdowne

Lansdowne,

of

Langholm,

Langholm,

Westerhall,

Penny,

Hall,

Esq., Mosspeebles,

of Rutland,

D.

The

Brougham

Borthwick,

The

Miss

Seafield,

Brougham.

Borthwick,

Mrs.

Langholm,

Hopsrig,

Breadalbane,

of
of

Alexander

Langholm,

Place,

Borthwick,

SUBSCRIBERS.

OF

LIST

.T. Wilson

Esq.,

Croker,

Ayr,

London

SUBSCRIBERS.

OF

LIST

No.

Large.
Mrs.

Harford,

Miss

Young,

The

Castle,

Bristol,

Cholmondeley,

II

Cowell,
Lord

The

Lady

Colbourne,
Colbourne,

(I

Buxton,

Lady

Small.

II

Cowell,

The

Copies.

(I

Riversdale,

Henry

Lady

Colonel
Mrs.

Blaize

of

Mrs.

Fox

Chawner,

(I

Mtss

Fox

Chawner.

Mrs.

Nicholson,

Miss

Nicholson,

Mrs.

Stepney

Brock,

Captain
The

Fitzgerald,

Miss

Glyn,

Miss

Amelia

Lodge,

Culver

shop-St

at

ford,

0
(I
.

Ramerscalles,

Ingilby, Eipley

Amcotts

Miss

Brodie,

Mrs.

A.

P.

Castle

Thompson,

Esq.,

Alexander

Cowan,

The

Lady

Georgina

The

Honorable

Mrs.

Herbert,

The

Honorable

Mrs.

Coventry,

Colonel

Hadham,

Great

Glyn,

Macdonald,

Lady

Bath,

Ruthven,

Lady

Miss

Wishaw,

Belhaven,

Lady

Miss

The

Cowell,

Bathurst,

Belgrave

Squai

e,

London,

0
0

Philip Dundas,
of

Kennet,

Mrs.

Bruce

Mrs.

Speirs, Eldcrslie,

II

Miss

Speirs, Polinont,

II

Miss

Murray,

of

Callender,

Mr.

Forbes

The

Lady

Charlotte

The

Lady

Abercrombie,

The

Honourable

Mrs.

Horsman,

Mrs.

Archer

II

Dundas,

Captain

Houbhm,

Airthrey
Murray,

Castle,

St

ling.

srr.sri;ii;Ki:s.

of

list

No.

Large.

Milliken,

Miss

Wright,

Mrs.

James

Hope,

Miss

Buller

Elpliinstone, Carberry,

Wardie

The

Marmaduke

Mrs.

Stewart

Mrs.

Ewart,

Mrs.

Johnstone,

0
.

Carlsgill, Langholm,

o
0

Terregles, Dumfries,

(I

Gladstone,

Dumfries,

Cowhill,

The

Marquess

Maxwell,

Mrs.

Alexander

The

Honorable

Bank,

Allan

of

Cathcart,

M'Adam

Mrs.

Stuart

Voeux,

De

Sophia

Lady

Miss

Esq., Langholm,

Coigivy,

de

Duchess

Broomholm,

of

Esq.

Stevenson,

The

Lady

Georgefield,

sen.,

Maxwell,

George

The

Thomond,

of

Walker,

....

Walker,

Miss

through

Friend,

The

Lord

Arthur

Hervay,

The

Lady

Arthur

Hervay,

Mrs.

Bax,

Miss

Brotherton,

Ickworth,

Bury

St.

Edmond,

Garden,

Bobert
Mrs.

Turner,

Miss

Turner,

The
In

Esq.
....

....

Est).,

Clarke,

Joseph

Codrington,

Georgina

Lady

Dodington,

Chippenham,

of

memory

The

Viscount

The

Lady

Dupplin,
Dupplin,

Blanche

of

The

Duke

The

Duchess

Beaufort,
of

L.

Mrs.

James

Mrs.

John

Badminton,

Gloucester,

Beaufort,

Dampier,

John

Esq.,

Parsons,
Wood,

Drayton-Langport,

Inmvood

Lodge,

Dorset,
.

The

Marquess

of

"

Small.

Lodge,

Maxwell,

Mrs.

'"]'."

(I

Granville,

Countess

"

ii

Do.

Little, Esq.,

James

Edinburgh,

Square,

37, Charlotte

.Miss

""f

Worcester.

OF

LIST

SUBSCRIBERS.

No.

Large.
The

Marchioness

The

Earl

The

Countess

Worcester,

SmalL

Howe,
Rothesay,

The

Earl

The

Countess

of

Kinnoul,

The

Countess

of

Morton,

The

Duchess

Sir

of

Copies.

Howe,

Douglas,

Mrs.

'

of

of

of

Athole,

Lond

Place

Cadosran

Somerset

Granville

Lady

Miss

Horta,

de

Madame

London

Argyle,

The

Duke

The

Countess

The

Lady

T.

The

Lord

Elcho,

The

Lady

Caroline

of

C.

Mrs.

Maxwell

John

Clark

of

Dr.

The

Earl

of

Earl

of

Shelburne,

The

Earl

of

Derby,

The

Countess

The

Rev.

of

James

Mrs.

Spencer

Miss

Smith,

Friend,

Friend,

Mrs.

St.

Esq., Regent

James'

orth.

Park,

Square,

Admiral
Do.

Esq.,

Dundas,

Lon

ilun

0
II

Beddington,

Smith,

through

Henry

Derby,
Hamilton,

Bonar,

Hall

Hamilton,

William

Jardine

Hall, Sawbridgew

Hyde

Roden,

Applegarth,

The

James

Bait.,

Lockhart,

Mrs.

Dalswinton,

of

Dunbar,

Gibson

John

Spedduck,

Jardine,

Rev.

Carruchan,

Leny

The

Bilholm

Edinburgh,

William

Courtcnay

Aytoun,

Sir

Lond

Mrs.

M'Alpine

Hill,

Charteris,

Esq.,

of

Camden

Hopetoun,

Wilson,

John

0
1

Somerset,
of

0
0

Sartorius,

Lady

J.

\\ "Test-End-House

Sartorius, Bart.,

George

The

Kinnoul,

Hawker,

Croy don,

SUBSCRIBERS.

OF

LIST

No.
Lanre.

The

Duke

of

The

Lady

Catherine

Devonshire,

Devonshire

London

House,

of

Copies.
Small.

Cavendish,

II

Mrs.

Power,

I)

Mrs.

Winfield,

Earl

The

William

Lady

Sir

Michael

Esq.,

Ramsay,

The

Cardigan,

of

The

Countess

of

Pembroke,

The

Countess

of

Dunmore,

The

Rev.

The

Charles

Rev.

Baron

de

Mrs.

Thomas

Mrs.

Collins, Clifton

Mrs.

Collins

Reynes,

Wood,

Viscountess

The

Marchioness

of

Kildare,

The

Marchioness

of

Stafford,

Blantyre,

Mrs.

Bridges,

Henstridge

Mrs.

Fennell,

Castle

Dr.

Rev.
J.

Esq., Kirby

Zeals,

Wincanton,

Mrs.

Stirling, Linlathen,

Miss

Lennox,

Miss

Cathcart,

Sir

Edward

Lennox

Lady

Castle,

Grey,
Lytton,

Bulwer

Mrs.

Davies,

Dumfries,

Mrs.

Howat,

Dumfries,

Mrs.

Leycester,

Mrs.

Charles

Toft-Hall,

Cowan,

Hall,

Do.,

Thompson,

Lewis,

Dowager

Somerset,

Mitchell,

Mrs.

The

Dorset,

Vicarage,

Gary,

Thompson,

Misses

House

Sutherland

Sutherland,

through
Bart.,

Cheshire

Valleyfield,

Douglas

Walker,

The

The

of

Tuyll,

Duchess

Richard

Marchioness

Langholm,

The

The

0
0

Baden,

M.D.,

Carlyle, Esq.

of

Dumfries,

Langholm,

Watson,

Library,

Langholm
William

of

Marie

Princess

the

H.

London

Park

Dunmore

Hutton,

Square,

Street, London,

Grafton

I)

Esq., Dumfries,

Harkness,

Robert
H.

Currie

John

Bart., Belgrave

Stewart,

Shaw

Renfrewshire,

Pollock,

Maxwell,

Matilda

Mrs.

Harington,

LIST

OF

SUBSCE1BER8.

No.

of

Large.
.Miss

Hamilton,

Mrs.

C.

-Mrs.

Matheson,

Mrs.

Halliday,

Mrs.

Taylor,

Bennett,

Captain
Mrs.
A.

C.

A.

Carruthers

Skirving,

The

Robertson,

Lady

of

Mary

Mrs.

Johnstone,

Mrs.

Maxwell

Dormont,
of

Esq.

Edinburgh,

Croyes,

Monck,
....

of

Munshes,

Herries, Esq.
Miss

of

Spotts,

Burnet,
....

William

Cunningham,

Miss

Young,

Mrs.

Robert

Two

Friends,

Sheriff
The

through

Mrs.

Gilbert,

Trotter, Dumfries,
Dr.

Cotton,

Mrs.

C.

Mrs.
31

Mr.

"Wilson,
through

Mrs.

James

Davies,

Southampt
Do.

Herring,

Do.

Do.

James

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Crabb,

Aubrey,

Mr.

Crabb,

Do.

Hutchins,

Mrs.

Ayrshire,

Rothesay,

Miss

.Mrs.

House,

Taylor,

Rev.

is.

Esq., Logan

Adkins,
Taylor

Messrs.

Dore,

Forbes

and

Marshall,

Mr.

Dowman,

Do.

Do.

Mr.

Cooksey,

Do.

Do.

Mr.

Sharland,

Do.

Do.

Mrs.

F.,

Do.

Do.

Mrs.

Dashper,

Do.

Do.

Mr.

Lancaster,

Do.

Do.

Mr.

Caplen,

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Do.

Messrs.
A

Friend,

Mrs.
The

Lury,

Allen,
Rev.

Wm.

Orger,

Copies.
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