THE

W E AV E R ’ S
STUDIO

DOUBLEWEAVE

JENNIFER
MOORE
 setting up
the warp
We all evolve our own systems of warping a loom
based on what we were taught, what type of loom we
have, what we weave, and our own preferences. There
is no right or wrong way to warp a loom, as long as
the warp ends up correctly threaded and sleyed, without
tangles or twists, under perfectly even tension.
Here is the system that works for me. Follow this in its
entirety, pick and choose parts that you like, or use your
own system. These instructions are specific for the 4-shaft
sampler, but also serve as general instructions for any
doubleweave warp.
yarn considerations
Since we will be weaving two layers of cloth at the same
time, the total sett will be twice what it would be for a
single layer. This means that we will be winding on a very
dense warp, and that the warp will be closely sett in the
reed. It’s particularly important to get good clean sheds
in doubleweave because we don’t want to accidentally
tie warp threads from one layer into the other layer, so we
will be weaving under a tight tension.
Warp yarn can be any type of fiber—wool, cotton, linen,
2 D O U B L E W E A V E
silk, whatever you like—but it must be very strong and fairly
smooth. If you can break the yarn easily with your hands, it
is probably not strong enough for a doubleweave warp.
The samples in this book use 5/2 pearl cotton for the
warp yarn. Pearl cotton is strong and smooth, is readily
available in a wide range of colors, and is priced afford-
ably. The 5/2 size is a comfortable scale to work with,
easy to see for threading and pick-up work, and allows
us to clearly differentiate between our layers.
warp planning
For a basic two-layered cloth in which the warp mate-
rial is the same for each layer (aside from the color), the
amount of yarn needed for a single layer is the same
amount needed for the second layer.
Using 5/2 pearl cotton, we will work with a set of 16
epi for each layer, for a total of 32 epi. In calculating the
length of your warp, add in your usual loom waste and
take-up and shrinkage appropriate for the yarn. For the
4-shaft sampler, a 3-yard warp is ample. We will have
144 warp ends in each layer, or a total of 288 warp ends
for our 9" (23 cm) wide sampler.
 1 2 3

4 5 6

winding the warp
Once you know how many warp
ends you need for each layer and
the length of your warp, you are
ready to start winding the warp.
Wind a guide thread for the length
of the warp and attach it to your
warping board or warping reel.
Have a cone of yarn ready for each
of the two layers. Put the ends of
your two colors together and attach
them with a slip knot to the end
peg opposite the end where you
have your cross (figure 1).
Wind the two threads together,
keeping a finger between the two
threads to keep them from twisting
together (figure 2). This means that
you will have a pair of threads, a
light and a dark, in each section
of the cross (figure 3). You need
only to count the number of warp
threads for a single layer since you
are winding the two together as
one. Rather than counting the total
number of warp threads, I count the
number of threads in a 1" (2.5 cm)
section, and then tie each of these
groups tightly into a bundle at the
top end peg. This way you only have
to count up to 16 for each group
(figure 4). Tie off your cross and
make choke ties in the usual way
(figure 5). Cut the ends of your warp
at the opposite end peg from your
cross (figure 6). When chaining the
warp to remove it from the warping
board or reel, alternate using your
left and right hands to pull each
section through the loop to avoid
adding extra twists to your warp.

S e t t i n g U p T h e W a r p 3
mix and match
hot pads or placemats
As we’ve seen, a wealth of possibilities
exists for exploring doubleweave with
just one threading and one tie-up on four
shafts. But we don’t need to stop there! We
can broaden our horizons even further by
making changes with our threading or our
use of color, or both.
equipment
4-shaft loom with 9" (23 cm)
weaving width for hot pads, or with
15" (38 cm) weaving width for
placemats
8-dent reed
2 or more shuttles
yarns
4 different colors of 5/2 pearl cotton.
The amount will depend on which
project you are weaving, and how
many hot pads or placemats you wish
to weave.
additional materials
Quilt batting or polyfill stuffing
finished dimensions
total warp ends
288 for hot pads (72 of each color) Hot pads:
480 for placemats (120 of each color) 81⁄2" x 83⁄4"
(21.5 x 22 cm)
length of warp
Allow 12" (30.5 cm) for each hot pad, Placemats:
plus 30" (76 cm) loom waste 131⁄2" x 18–19"
Allow 24" (61 cm) for each placemat, (34.5 x 45.5—48.5 cm)
plus 30" (76 cm) loom waste after machine washing in cold
water and machine drying,
warp spacing plus fringe if desired.
32 epi (16 per layer), 4/dent in an
8-dent reed. Hot pads will be 9"
(23 cm) wide in the reed, and
placemats will be 15" (38 cm) wide
in the reed.
dimensions on loom
Hot pads: 9" x 101⁄2" (23 x 26.5 cm)
Placemats: 15” x 20–21"
(38 x 51—53.5 cm)
5
 threading
instructions
Choose four different colors of 5/2 pearl cotton. Wind a
warp to the appropriate length for your project. Wind all
four colors together, keeping a finger between each of
your colors as you wind, or use a warping paddle. Wind
72 ends of each color for the hot pads, or wind 120 ends
of each color for the placemats.
You may choose to thread according to either the straight-
draw threading or the 4-color block rotation. You might
also like to try weaving several pieces with the straight-
draw threading and then cut off what you have woven
and re-thread your warp according to the block rotation
for several more pieces. If you do this, allow about 12"
(30.5 cm) extra warp length for cutting off and re-tying.
Assign letters A–D to your four colors, in any order that
you wish.
6 D O U B L E W E A V E
threading with
the straight draw
Your warp threads will come four at a time in your cross,
one of each color. Thread in a straight draw according
to the color sequence that you have established for the
entire width of your warp.
threading with
the 4-color block rotation
For the hot pads, thread each threading block six times,
for a total of 24 warp ends (11⁄2" [3.8 cm] wide blocks)
before moving on to the next threading block.
For the placemats, thread each threading block ten times,
for a total of 40 warp ends (21⁄2" [6.5 cm] wide blocks)
before moving on to the next threading block.
Sley 4 threads per dent in an 8-dent reed (one thread of
each color).
To weave the hot pads: Weave either with one shuttle
in tubular fashion or with two shuttles of different colors.
Start both shuttles from the left and interlock wefts at the
selvedges by placing the second shuttle closer to the
reed.
Weave a total of seven treadling blocks for 11⁄2" (3.8 cm)
each. These may be any treadling blocks that you wish,
in any order. Just be sure you are not duplicating sheds
on either layer when switching from one treadling block
to another.
galler y

Galle r y 7

table of contents
Introduction
The Basics of Doubleweave
Setting Up the Warp
4-Shaft Sampler and Techniques
Doubleweave Pick-up
More 4-Shaft Possibilities
8H Possibilities
Beyond 8H
Finishing
Gallery
explore
the infinite possibilities of
doubleweave
Doubleweave is the art of weaving two layers of cloth at the same time, one
above the other on the loom, to create beautiful cloth that is reversible yet unique on
each side. Using pick-up techniques and clever color mixing, patterns emerge that are
different but complementary on each side. Weavers who have unlocked the keys to
doubleweave can create not only beautiful and functional cloth, but pieces that are
two or more times as wide as the loom, and even sculptural pieces.
readers will learn:
The basics of doubleweave techniques, shown in
detailed step-by-step photography
Tips and tricks to setting up the warp
Specialty techniques taught through detailed process
photography and a wealth of swatches demonstrating
different effects.
Techniques are shown for 4-shaft and 8-shaft looms. The weaving effects covered
include lace, tubular weave, pick-up, color mixing, and more. Detailed instructions for
a sampler and other projects help the reader to master doubleweave techniques and
develop infinite variations in their own weaving.
about the author
Jennifer Moore is widely known for her luminous color gradations and distinctive
designs that are at once both balanced and dynamic. For the past twenty years,
Jennifer’s weaving has been exhibited and has won awards in the United States and
abroad. Her work has been published in numerous magazines and in the Fiberarts
Design series. Jennifer holds a Master of Fine Arts in weaving from the University of
Oregon. She maintains a studio in Santa Fe, New Mexico, and travels throughout the
world giving lectures and workshops in weaving and design.
Paperback, 81⁄2 x 9, 144 pages
150 photos
ISBN 978-1-59668-179-8
$26.95
Available July 2010