Nyungwe
National Park
National Park 1
FOREWORD
Tourism is perceived as a pillar for economic development for Rwanda, and Nyungwe National Park plays an important role in this
sector as primary nature based tourist destination in Rwanda. In the year 2005, Nyungwe was upgraded from a Forest Reserve to a
National Park. This has enabled us to position it as a tourist destination among other conservation benefits that come with a National
Park status.
As a nature based tourist destination, Nyungwe National Park is a paradise for hikers and a network of nature walk trails has been
developed for you. Please enjoy and share your experience with others to encourage more visitors to come to Nyungwe National park.
It is through such visits that the park generates income to support conservation efforts that are aimed at securing the future of this
important resource for future generations.
I would like to thank all those who have tirelessly worked so hard to prepare this guidebook. Special appreciation goes to Destination
Nyungwe Project (DNP) and International Resources Group the prime contractor for championing its development and production as
well as USAID Rwanda for financing the project.
Finally, it is an honour for me to welcome you to Nyungwe National Park.
Foreword is authored by:
Mrs. Rica Rwigamba
Head of Tourism and Conservation
Rwanda Development Board
Acknowledgements
The Rwanda Development Board (RDB) would like to express its thanks to a number of people and organizations that contributed to the
preparation of this guide including: Doreen Bolnick, principal author, who walked most of the trails and developed maps and elevation
profiles; Bruce Bolnick, who hiked with Doreen and took many photographs; Destination Nyungwe Project (DNP) Chief of Party
Ian Munanura; current and former WCS staff Nsengiyumva Barakabuye, Flix Mulindahabi, and Bill Weber; Amy Vedder (UNDP
Technical Advisor on the Protected Areas Biodiversity Project); International Resources Group (IRG) Glen Anderson, Kathryn
Hoeflich, Daniel Lapidus, and Kyung Kim; IRG advisor Peter Nizette; and Eberhart Fischer. RDB would also like to acknowledge the
Nyungwe National Park guides who worked with Doreen, shared their knowledge of the park and the folklore surrounding the park
and its natural resources: Elys Habakwitonda, Vdaste Mpakaniye, Daniel Niyonsaba, Claver Ntoyinkima, Jean Claude Nyirimbabazi,
Japhet Rutonesha, Jean Aim Shumbusho, Jean Aim Sibomana, Jovith Siborurema, Martin Sindikubwabo, and Claude Uwamahoro.
Table of Contents
Introduction
Park Information
Accommodation, including camping
Transportation
Climate
Kinyarwanda greetings
Hiking Nyungwe
Climate
What to bring
Trail conditions
Acclimatization
Trail maps
Elevation profiles
The Trails
East of Uwinka
Bigugu Trail
Congo-Nile Divide Trail
Muzimu Trail
Ngabwe Trail
Rukuzi Trail
Uwinka
Buhoro Trail
Igishigishigi Trail
Imbaraga Trail
Irebero Trail
Umugote Trail
Umuyove Trail
West of Uwinka
Isumo (Waterfall) Trail
Kamiranzovu Marsh Trail (and Orchid Trail)
Karamba Trail
Uwinka Trail
Primate Viewing
Excursions
Gisakura Tea Plantation
OCIR Tea Factory
Banda Community Walk
Birding in Nyungwe
Albertine Rift Endemics found in Nyungwe National Park
Recommended References
Supporting Conservation in Rwanda
6 National Park
Introduction
inventory of fauna and flora, Nyungwe is well worth the trip. Over 130 km of wellconstructed trails invite travelers of all fitness levels to explore Nyungwe, take in the
fresh mountain air and spend time with a few of Nyungwes 13 different primate species.
Introduction 1
The Nyungwe rainforest once extended, in Rwanda, from the Burundi border in the south, to Volcanoes National Park in the north.
In the early 1900s, the loss of forest in the Nyungwe region had already attracted the attention of the German colonial administration
and the area was given Crown Land status. At that time, the northwestern boundary still extended as far as the shores of Lake
Kivu. Meanwhile, by the 1930s, much of Rwandas original rainforest was reduced to isolated patches, due to ever growing demand for
subsistence farming plots and forest resources. Of those forest remnants, Nyungwe was the largest, but was steadily losing ground around
its edges.
In 1933, the Belgian colonial administration declared it a forest reserve, La Foret Naturelle de Nyungwe, while it still covered 1,140
square kilometers. By the 1970s, it was clear that encroachments on the forest were continuing at an alarming rate. During the early
administration of the Rwandan government, and continuing into the 1980s, buffer zones of trees were planted around much of the
perimeter north of the current Huye Rusizi tarmac road. The plantations served as a visible boundary and were meant to lessen the
need for wood from the forest.
In the late 1970s and throughout the 1980s, Nyungwe began to attract the attention of biologists and other conservationists. They were
surprised by the wealth of plant and animal species, some new to science, but also alarmed at the rate of ongoing destruction. Gold
mining, in particular, was responsible for stripping great swaths of forest along streams. Nyungwes status as a reserve still permitted
access to some forest resources, including gold and was inadequate protection from the surrounding communities who sought food,
medicine, building materials, sources of income, land to till, or even a place to settle, right in the forest. The policy of allowing limited
access to forest resources was too difficult to control. Under increasing population pressure, Nyungwe Forest Reserve had lost nearly
15% of its area mostly lower altitude forest to smallholder agriculture, since being declared Crown Land. Two new areas, Pindura and
Karamba, even sprang up to serve the mining community within the reserve.
In 1985, WCS began work to better understand and protect Nyungwe. WCS had already played a major role, in cooperation with
the Rwandan government, to protect the homeland of the gorillas in Volcanoes National Park. Together, at Nyungwe, they formed a
2 Introduction
partnership Projet de Conservation de la Foret de Nyungwe (PCFN), which continues to this day. Long-term research and training
programs were initiated, primate groups habituated for tourism, and trails developed in the Uwinka area with the assistance of the US
Peace Corps. The business centers in the Park at Pindura and Karamba were removed in 1989, and ultimately gold mining was abolished.
In 2004, the entire area of Nyungwe was declared a national park including the two non-contiguous small forests of Cyamudongo, and
Gisakura. Today, the number of visitors is growing steadily and Nyungwes future looks bright. In 2006, USAID began its support for
ecotourism and biodiversity conservation in Nyungwe National Park through its Destination Nyungwe Project (DNP). Continued
to date, the project helped position Nyungwe as a tourism destination by creating additional trails, establishing a new campground,
building a canopy walkway and an interpretation center, and training park guides. DNP also helped create economic incentives for local
communities surrounding the park to help preserve the Parks biodiversity.
Nyungwe is in the westernmost of the two main divisions of the Great Rift Valley, the western section often referred to as the Albertine
Rift. It extends from Lake Albert to Lake Tanganyika. The Rift has many sizeable mountains and huge lakes which drain west into
the Congo River system or east and north into the Nile River system. The Albertine Rift, in addition to having dramatic landscapes,
is noted for its unusually high number of endemic species of fauna and flora. In Nyungwe there are more than 1,000 species of plants
over 200 species of trees and 248 species of orchid and more are being found each year. At least 85 mammal species are found in
Nyungwe including 13 kinds of primates, and nearly 280 species of birds, 10% of which are endemic. Although Nyungwe is at its heart
a rainforest, the biodiversity of the park is even further enriched by other landscapes including swamps, marshes, bamboo thicket, heath
communities, open woodland and many microhabitats.
Introduction 3
Park information
Nyungwe offers visitors over 130 km of beautiful hiking trails
to suit all ages and abilities. In addition to the trails within
the park, the surrounding area boasts two tea factory tours, a
community walk, and a tour to a local village. For all of the
activities within the park including the two isolated forests
of Cyamudongo and Gisakura tourists are accompanied
by very knowledgeable and well-trained guides from the
RDB. Bookings can usually be made on arrival in the park
but, especially in the high season, booking in advance is
recommended.
4 Introduction
Contact information
Rwanda Development Board Reservation Center
Boulevard de la Revolution # 1
PO Box 905
Kigali, Rwanda
Phone : (250) 576514, 573396
Fax: (250) 576515
Email: reservation@rwandatourism.com
Website: www.rwandatourism.com
Kitabi
This is the headquarters for Nyungwe National Park and is located on the left of the Huye Rusizi Road,
just before the main entrance to the park.
Uwinka
Overlook
This reception center is centrally located within the park and the starting point for many of the Parks
trails. The overlook is accessed from the parking lot by a flight of stairs. The overlook was renovated in
2009-2010 as part of USAIDs Destination Nyungwe Project and includes an interpretation center and
canteen in addition to the reception center.
Gisakura
This reception center lies just outside the western entrance to the park, on the same property as the
Gisakura Guest House & WCS headquarters. Look for the WCS sign on the right approximately 2km from
the park exit.
Accommodations
Nyungwe is rapidly gaining in popularity. A new lodge opened in 2010 and additional accommodations are under development or
planned. Make reservations in advance, especially for June-September and on public holidays.
The Nyungwe Forest Lodge, situated in the Gisakura Tea Plantation, provides a range of hotel room accommodations (www.
mantiscollection.com). There are hotels in three towns within a reasonable drive of the park: Huye (2 hours from Uwinka), Rusizi (1.5
hours from Uwinka), and Nyamagabe (1.5 hours from Uwinka). For information, contact tour operators, or visit the RDB website, www.
rwandatourism.com
Introduction 5
This is probably the most convenient location for campers who plan to hike in the Uwinka area. It has two
secluded campsites with pleasant picnic gazebos, a toilet and a shower. Firewood and water can be supplied
upon request. The canteen sells snacks and soft drinks but campers should arrive with a hearty supply of
food and water.
Wilderness campsites
For the intrepid, outdoorsy traveler or those who want to experience nightfall and early mornings in the park, arrangements can be
made at any tourist reception center to reserve a trail-side campsite and an overnight guide. These campsites are basic, as you would
want them to be in the wilderness. Your guide will help you to arrange firewood but it is advisable to bring your own water on all
overnight treks. Supplies for camping must be provided by the tourist (sleeping bags, tents etc). And youll need to pack in (and out)
your own food and drinks.
Summit of Mt.Bigugu
There is one campsite that can accommodate four people near the summit (2950 m) of Mount Bigugu, Nyungwes highest peak and
home to the parks communications facility. The one-way distance to the summit is 6.6 km. Bring your own water.
6 Introduction
Getting to Nyungwe
Most visitors arrive in the park with tour operators, who tend to have large, comfortable vehicles. If youre driving yourself, set out from
Kigali on the Huye Road heading south for about two hours. Once you approach Huye town center just before you hit the city center,
head west on the Rusizi Road and continue along the winding road another hour and a half before reaching the park headquarters at
Kitabi. Other transport options for getting to Nyungwe include hiring your own car or taxi, hopping in a jam-packed mutatu, or flying
to Kamembe, half an hour from Gisakura by taxi.
Tourists who arrive in the park without their own transportation may get information about public taxis and local buses at the RDB
Reception Centers.
Kitabi-Gisakura Road
The road through the park is open for passage 24 hours day, although a plan is currently underway to close this road at dark. Contact
RDB for the latest update.
Introduction 7
8 Introduction
Hiking Nyungwe
RDB Guides
Experienced park guides accompany visitors on all hikes and excursions, including Nyungwes newest attraction, the canopy walkway
on the Igishigishigi Trail. Guides set a good pace for visitors and make the activities more rewarding with their knowledge of natural
history, conservation, and traditional lore. When making reservations ahead of time, be sure to let the reservation agent know if you
have any special requirements if you are an avid birder, only speak English or need to take the trails at a slower pace so that they can
appropriately match you with your guide.
Climate
Although only a few degrees south of the equator with the sun rising and setting close to 6AM & PM each day, the elevations at
Nyungwe moderate the heat of the sun and it can get surprisingly chilly! Daytime temperatures range from the 40s to mid 70s Fahrenheit
(10 25 Centigrade). Nights are cool and can sometimes dip close to the freezing point. And since its a rainforest, its always damp.
Bring layers of clothing to regulate your temperature and keep you from getting soaked. Raingear should be carried even on the clearest,
sunniest mornings. Some trails are in the open but travelers should always wear sun protection.
There are two rainy seasons, the shorter one is from September to November, and the longer from February to May, but rain can occur
on any day of the year. The driest times of the year are from June to August and from mid-December to mid-January. Although it is easy
Hiking Nyungwe 9
Field guides
For a list of recommended references including nature field guides
see the bibliography near the end of this book.
Trail conditions
Food
There are no grocery shops in or near the park so consider
bringing plenty of trail snacks, or all your food supplies if you plan
to camp. There are well-stocked shops in Kigali, Huye and other
major towns. Some staples like rice and fresh produce can be
purchased in the village of Gisakura.
Water
Water can be purchased in large bottles at the three reception
centers or boiled if you have access to a stove. To be safe, consider
10 Hiking Nyungwe
trails return by the same route, and still others finish some distance away from the original trailhead, where pick-up might be arranged
in advance.
Acclimation
Visitors coming from low altitudes may need time to adjust to the high elevations of Nyungwe, or Rwanda in general. Even the most fit
traveler should not be surprised at being winded by simply climbing a flight of stairs, especially if she has just landed in Kigali.
To acclimate, it is best to start with shorter hikes or those with less altitude gain. Walking very slowly, say at a museum pace, will extend
the length of time one can walk comfortably between rest stops. Tourists traveling to Nyungwe may want to read up on altitude related
illnesses and acclimatization before planning their trip.
Hiking Nyungwe 11
Cy
an
gu
gu
to
Gisakura
Isumo
Trail
Ruzuki Trail
Kamiranzovu Marsh
Kamiranzovu
Trail
Uwinka Trails:
Imbaraga Trail
Umugote Trail
Umuyove Trail
Irebero Trail
Igishigishigi Trail
Buhoro Trail
Uwinka Trail
Pindura Road
Karamba
Trail
Muzimu
Trail
Congo Nile
Divide Trail
Bigugu Trail
Buta
re
Cy
Road
angu
gu
utare
to B
Kitabi
Ngabwe
Trail Hiking Nyungwe
13
14 Hiking Nyungwe
The Trails
he trails in the Park are presented in three geographical groups: trails between Kitabi and Uwinka; trails that begin
at Uwinka; and trails between Uwinka and Gisakura.
East of Uwinka
ost visitors will arrive from Kigali at the eastern entrance to the Park at Kitabi. The trails east of Uwinka feature
ridgeline walking, ascents of Nyungwes highest peaks, and fabulous vistas of deep valleys, mountaintops and
mountain ridges as far as you can see. The trails featured in this section are drier than trails to the west and in
some places, much colder. Most of the forest fires in the past have occurred in this area of the Park and as a result, visitors
pass through extensive areas of post-fire emergent vegetation including ferns, shrubs and pioneer tree species. The gem of the
eastern region of the Park is the recently completed Congo-Nile Divide Trail, a multi-day hike along ridges and mountain
summits, with a spur trail to the source of the White Nile.
East Of Uwinka 15
Bigugu Trail
Distance: 13.2 km round trip to
summit (viewpoint beyond summit
adds 0.3 km each way)
3000
Elevation (m)
2800
2600
2400
Rating: difficult
2200
2000
1800
0.0
1.0
2.0
3.0
4.0
Distance (km)
16 Bigugu Trail
5.0
6.0
6.9
Bigugu Trail 17
The trail begins by climbing steps, and gains 150 m of elevation in the first half-km of steep mountainside.
At this point, a mossy, old roadbed appears which contours around shallow prominences on the long
shoulder of the mountain. This section of trail, being relatively flat and very pretty, provides some of the
most pleasant three km of hiking in the park and is a welcome relief after the steep start. Eventually the
trail leaves the old road for a moderate gradient to the broad, heath-covered dome of the summit. This is
partly occupied by a radio relay station, staffed by RDB which has an important role in keeping trackers,
guides and rangers in touch so that the chimps are tracked and poachers are kept out of the forest.
From the summit, you are rewarded for the climb with a fantastic overview of the whole park. If the
weather behaves, you can see the shimmer of Lake Kivu beckoning in the distance, the hills and islands
of the Democratic Republic of Congo, and the extension of Nyungwes forest in Kabira National Park in
Burundi. If youre lucky, you may even see the proud summits of Volcanoes National Park, home to the
majestic mountain gorilla.
Not too far from the summit there is a bench for a well-deserved picnic, overlooking Banda village, a
peninsula of densely populated and cultivated land, surrounded by buffer zone and park on three sides.
Your guide may even be able to point out his own fields and home. The ridge beyond Banda is Kigogo
Mountain and Gisakura is hidden just on the other side. You may just want to call Bigugu home for the
evening. If so, youll find a campsite just below the summit.
The lower slopes of Bigugu are a home range for chimpanzees. When theyre busy feeding on their
favorite food trees at the higher elevations, it becomes easier to observe them since the trees diminish in
size with altitude. Not far below the summit, the trail leaves the rainforest for shrub zone on rocky soil.
This vegetation community is also typical of other summits in the park, including Mts Muzimu, Ngabwe
and Ruhindu.
18 Bigugu Trail
East Of Uwinka 19
2900
2800
Elevation (m)
Elevation (m)
2800
2700
2600
2500
2400
2300
0.0
2700
2600
2500
2400
1.0
2.0
3.0
4.0
5.0
6.0
7.0
8.0
9.0
10.0
11.0
12.0
13.0
14.0
Distance (km)
2900
2300
0.0
1.0
2.0
3.0
4.0
5.0
6.0
7.0
8.0
Distance (km)
9.0
10.0
11.0
12.0
13.3
2900
2800
2800
Elevation (m)
Elevation (m)
2900
2700
Rating: Difficult
2600
2500
2400
2700
2600
2500
2400
2300
0.0
1.0
2.0
3.0
4.0
5.0
6.0
7.0
8.0
9.0
10.0
11.0
12.0
13.0
14.0
Distance (km)
2300
0.0
1.0
2.0
3.0
4.0
5.0
6.0
7.0
8.0
9.0
10.0
11.0
12.0
Distance (km)
Elevation (m)
2800
2700
2600
2500
2400
CONGONILE
DIVIDE TRAIL
2300
0.0
1.0
2.0
3.0
4.0
5.0
6.0
7.0
8.0
9.0 10.0
5km
14.0 14.8
Distance (km)
13.3
between the Nile and Congo sides of the divide and includes a short spur to the Source of the White Nile. In several places, hikers
can literally straddle the divide, with one foot in each watershed. The trail crosses dozens of prominences, offering many beautiful views.
Along the way, youll pass through bracken fields, secondary forest, bamboo forest, ericaceous shrub, marsh and primary rainforest. The
many open habitats support a rich variety of birds and colorful wildflowers. The hike includes the panoramic summit of Mount Yahahi,
and the six peaks on Mount Ruhindu, resulting in a cumulative ascent of more than 1765 m. The steeper sections are well graded with
switchbacks but this is a long and arduous trail. Most of the trail is above 2,500 m.
The Congo-Nile Divide Trail involves a multi-day trek and RDB recommends doing it from north to south, with three overnight stops.
This schedule provides a wonderful opportunity to enjoy the serene beauty of the Nyungwe wilderness, while getting plenty of exercise.
For hikers accustomed to long treks, or who are pressed for time, the route can be completed with one or two overnight stops.
The Congo-Nile Divide trailhead is reached on a rough dirt road near the mountain village of Musarara. The first 2 km of the hike
climbs and then descends at a gentle grade, through a buffer zone of pines and acacia. These were planted by the government to
separate areas of cultivation outside the park from the forest within. Hikers may hear the voices of children, coming from high up the
trunks of pine trees, where they harvest dead branches for firewood.
At 2.0 km from the trailhead, the trail enters the park and natural forest vegetation begins, accompanied by a dramatic increase in
birdlife. The non-native pine forest is a desert by comparison. At about 4.5 km from the trailhead, hikers reach the junction with a
spur trail to a small spring in a sedge marsh that has been documented as Kants Source of the White Nile, 2,538 m above sea level.
The spur to the Source is a gentle walk about a 0.6 km round trip from the junction. Camp 1 is about 0.25 km past the junction; hikers
could do the spur on the way to camp, or settle in at camp first and retrace their steps.
Continuing on from Camp 1, the trail follows the divide in a continual series of undulating hills, alternating between regenerating
burn zones with wide-open views, and cool mountain forests draped with epiphytes and tangled lianas. There are many fine views
to enjoy along the way. The more open landscapes once had forest
cover, which was killed off by an enormous dry-season fire in 1997,
apparently set by poachers who were smoking out bee hives to
gather wild honey.
Camp 2, at the base of Mt. Yahahi, is reached at about 8 km from
Camp 1, making this an easy day with plenty to see and a chance to
rest up before hitting the harder parts of the trail.
From Camp 2 the trail ascends the summit Mt Yahahi (2680 m), one
of the highlights of the trip. Youll want to stop here for a long rest
to drink in the extraordinary panoramic views of both watersheds.
The trail then descends the far side of Mt Yahahi and continues
its pattern of climbing and descending numerous minor hills. Some
relief is offered when the trail temporarily coincides with a section
of an old road, which used to connect the districts of Ruzizi and
Musebeya. It is still used by villagers and their cows. Hikers who
prefer to spend just one or two nights in the wild may exit the
Congo-Nile Divide Trail at this point by turning right to Musebeya,
about an hour to the east, where pick-up can be arranged ahead of
time.
When the trail leaves the old road, hikers enter some of the finest
wilderness of the entire trek and very soon after starting on this
24 East Of Uwinka
section, one of the steepest ascents. The trail climbs more than
300 m in 2 km, on a long series of switchbacks, up the nearly 7
km long ridge of Mt. Ruhindu. On the ridge, youll encounter
large communities of small-leaved, ericaceous shrub vegetation,
and a long section of trail dominated by bamboo. The latter is not
encountered on any other trail currently in use in the park. Violetpink jewelweed dominates the ground cover. Camp 3 lies in a deep
col between summits four and five. The main road and southern
trailhead are still 14 km distant, leaving a long hard trek for the last
day on the trail.
The final leg of the trek begins with an ascent of the last two peaks
on Mt. Ruhindu, the highest peak reaching 2888 m. From here
there are stunning views first to the Nile side of the divide, and
then to the Congo side, with the majestic peaks of Mt. Muzimu to
the west, and Mt. Bigugu to the southwest. The hard work is soon
over and the remaining 12 km are gratifyingly mostly down hill.
Hikers weave in and out primary vegetation, secondary forest and
increasing amounts of open bracken savanna with tree skeletons.
Many people believe bracken fern, an indigenous invasive plant
species, impedes forest regeneration, but it is actually a natural part
of a lengthy succession of the forest ecosystem. Pioneer tree species,
are starting to enter the landscape and RDB is making headway by
East Of Uwinka 25
reintroducing certain tree species to the mix. Isolated pockets of moist, shady ground serve as refugia for rainforest herbs and shrubs,
waiting for the original forest to expand again.
The last 7.5 km of trail are very gently graded until you reach the Huye Rusizi Road. Uwinka Tourist Reception Center is about 17 km
to the west.
In historical terms, an even more important feature of the landscape is that the Nyungwe segment of the Congo-Nile divide has an
unpretentious little marsh, from which flows a tiny spring that was documented in 1898 as the long-sought Source of the White Nile.
The Source of the White Nile has been mired in controversy for centuries going back to ancient Egypt, ancient Greece, through the
age of great explorers and occupied legends such as Richard Francis Burton, Dr. David Livingstone and Henry Morton Stanley. In fact,
it was on his journey to find the source of the Nile that Stanley uttered those famous words, Dr. Livingstone, I presume?
It is still under dispute, but in 2006 the Ascend of the Nile Expedition traveled over 7,000km looking for the farthest source of the Nile
only to find it 14km from the marsh Kandt identified. (It is possible to visit the new source at Gisovu by reservation through RDB.)
Walking along this challenging trail gives you a chance to be part of the legend.
muzimu Trail
Distance: 5.2 km (round trip to the
second summit)
Elevation (m)
2800
Rating: moderate
2400
2200
0.0
0.25
0.5
0.75
1.0
1.25
1.5
Distance (km)
28 Muzimu Trail
1.75
2.0
2.25
2.6
Muzimu trail
MUZIMU
TRAIL
At about 0.5 km from the trailhead, there is a spur to the right, with 270-degree views of the forest. At 1.6 km, hikers reach the first
and highest of two summits, with a 360-degree panoramic view of the majestic Nyungwe National Park. The massive Mt. Bigugu is to
Muzimu Trail 29
the south and Mt. Ruhindu, on the Congo-Nile Divide, is to the southeast. Lake Kivu and Idjwi
Island in the DRC are to the northwest.
The trail continues past the first summit, then down to a small, forested mountain pass, followed
by a nearly 50 meter ascent to the second summit. On both summits, the plants are only just
above knee-high and either summit would be an ideal picnic spot in dry weather.
Among the flowers to be seen along the trail are heaths, blue and yellow Commelina species,
morning glories, wild geraniums, yellow starflowers, dolls powderpuff, yellow Senecio, ground
and epiphytic orchids, a small pink flowered shrub and aromatic everlastings.
The descent of Muzimu can be pure joy. Most of the uphill work on this trail is done, the
traction is excellent and now the grandiose views spread out in front. As hikers re-enter the
buffer zone, footsteps muffled in drifts of pine needles, you may notice how eerily silent and still
the monoculture of the pine plantation is by comparison with the rich diversity of the park.
On the way to or from Muzimu, visitors may travel close to the Kivu lakeshore. In clear
weather, the strikingly handsome peaks of Volcanoes National Park, world famous for it thriving
population of mountain gorillas, can be seen to the north. In the near-distance, you can see the
extent of the tree plantation buffer zone, the long, winding roads that must be negotiated to get
here, and the steep hillside cultivation of mountain villages. Some garden plots are so tilted that
it is a wonder that villagers can hoe, weed, and harvest them, without losing their balance!
30 Muzimu Trail
Muzimu Trail 31
NGABWE Trail
Elevation (m)
2800
Distance: 4.7 km
Estimated time: 3 hours
2600
Rating: moderate
2400
2200
0.0
1.0
32 Ngabwe Trail
2.0
Distance (km)
3.0
4.0
4.7
ENGABWE
TRAIL
There are two main trails leading to the summit and it is recommended that hikers use one to ascend and the other to return, for variety
of scenery. Taking the counter-clockwise route means you hit the steepest section for the descent.
The trail begins 200 m down a short side road, located about 3 km from the park entrance on the Kitabi side. Youll see a water tank on
the right that supplies water to the Kitabi tea factory; the side road continues briefly to the left; and the trail climbs up a ridge between
them.
Ngabwe Trail 33
The forest is mixed, with mature forest species and secondary species. There are also strangler figs, including a particularly welldeveloped one with a waterberry tree as the host or mother tree. While there are fine, gnarled old trees here, you wont see many with
the same tall, straight trunks like those near Uwinka. In general, the eastern part of the park is less biologically rich than the western
side, but theyre both beautiful in their own right. The trail passes in and out of several zones of shrubs on shallow soil and exposed
bedrock.
On an open shoulder to one side of the ridge, the summit comes into view. From here it is easy to see where the darker green forest
vegetation abruptly stops and the heath begins -- the heath community is paler green, more finely textured and shorter. If you enjoy
flowers, dont forget to look up in the trees -- it is somewhat easier to see air plants, birds and primates because the trees here are
much shorter. Monkey species include mountain, blue, and Angolan black and white colobus, the latter is being tracked by a team in
the process of habituating them. Mangabeys and chimpanzees may also be spotted. Black-fronted duikers, a small mammal related to the
antelope, feed on the grasses higher up.
At the summit there are two benches facing different directions, and a camp. The first bench, off to the left, has a sweeping view to
the east, looking out of the park, past the buffer zone of eucalyptus, pine and tea, to villages and their patchwork cultivation plots. The
second bench, one minute further down the trail, looks down over rainforest on the hillside to an area of regenerating forest, which
resembles savanna. It is recovering from the big fire of the 1997 dry season, which may have been set by honey collectors. Burundi is
hidden behind a large distant ridge. Swooping past, between the visitor and the landscape, are red-rumped swallows, which are often
associated with rocky outcrops.
Along the eastern route back, there are several small gaps in the trees for views to the south and east. You meet a trail junction half
way down the mountain and if youre up for it, you can continue on an 8-hour walk to the Kitabi tea plantation, or begin on that trail
but branch off to reach park headquarters instead. At the junction there is also a trail to the left which heads up the mountain to
the summit of Mount Ngabwe and back down through colobus territory and ending in Uwasenkoko. Before reaching the end of the
34 Ngabwe Trail
trail, eucalyptus saplings, with their medicinally aromatic leaves, begin to appear, mixed in with weeds and regenerating indigenous
vegetation. Soon the trail crosses a brook and climbs back up the other side of a small, open valley. An increasing number of invasive
eucalyptus saplings are seen, in addition to pioneer saplings of the umbrella tree. Soon a sand quarry comes into view, ahead. It is on the
far side of the road from the end of the trail, and 1.2 km closer to the main gate than where the hike started. The quarry is a good place
to meet a pick-up vehicle.
Ngabwe Trail 35
RUKUZI Trail
Distance: 9.1 km, one way
Elevation (m)
2600
2400
Rating: Difficult
2200
2000
1800
0.0
1.0
2.0
3.0
4.0
5.0
6.0
7.0
8.0
9.1
Distance (km)
36 Rukuzi Trail
Umuvumu trail
Rangiro Road
Rukuzi trail
500m
Pindura Road
Rukuzi Trail 37
38 Rukuzi Trail
Rukuzi Trail 39
Uwinka Overlook
40 Uwinka Overlook
Uwinka Overlook 41
Uwinka Trails
Network
winka is about halfway between the eastern and western entrances of the Park and the trailhead for several hikes in
Nyungwes spectacular high mountain cloud forest. Uwinka is the highest point on the Huye-Rusizi Road all trails head
downhill along ridges then dip down into luxuriant and moisture-laden valleys. The trails showcase majestic mahogany trees
and other tropical giants, and a vast number of flowering plants including orchids. There are waterfalls along two of the trails, and you
may be lucky enough to see Blue or Mountain monkeys and hear the song of the great blue turaco. In 2010 the Park will unveiled a new
interpretation center in Uwinka Overlook, a must-see stop before or after your hike.
Buhoro Trail
Elevation (m)
2600
Distance: 1.8km
Estimated time: 1 1/2 hours
2400
Rating: easy
Elevation low point: 2386
Elevation high point: 2450
2200
0.0
0.4
0.8
1.2
Distance (km)
44 Buhoro Trail
1.6
1.8
BUHORO
TRAIL
Imbaraga trail
Imbaraga trail
Buhoro Trail 45
46 Buhoro Trail
Buhoro Trail 47
igishigishigi Trail
Distance: 2.1 km, round trip
Elevation (m)
2600
2400
2200
0.0
0.5
1.0
Distance (km)
48 Igishigishigi Trail
1.5
2.0 2.1
Would you like to view the forest from the top of the
trees instead of from the forests floor? Looking for an
exhilarating walk across a series of bridges 30 meters
above the ground? The Igishigishigi Trail is the trail
for you.
The Igishigishigi Trail, named for the majestic giant
tree ferns along the trail, was selected in 2008 as the
site of a canopy walkway. This canopy walkway site
was selected because it could be reached via a short,
relatively easy trail in close proximity to the Uwinka
Overlook. The canopy walkway is situated about
halfway down the Igishigishigi Trail. Hikers leave the
trail and cross three bridges and connect to the trail
across a ravine. The canopy walkway can be planned
as a short 2.1 km roundtrip hike or combined with
the longer Imbaraga or Umuyove Trails.
Umuyove trail
Imbaraga trail
Igishigishigi trail
100m
Imbaraga and
Buhoro trail
Igishigishigi Trail 49
50 Igishigishigi Trail
Igishigishigi Trail 51
52 Igishigishigi Trail
Igishigishigi Trail 53
imbaraga Trail
Distance: 9.8 km round trip
Average time: 6 hours
Elevation (m)
2600
Rating: difficult
2400
2200
2000
1800
0.0
1.0
2.0
3.0
4.0
5.0
Distance (km)
54 54
Imbaraga
Imbaraga
Trail
Trail
6.0
7.0
8.0
9.0
9.8
Are you up for the challenge? The Imbaraga Trail is one of the
premier paths in Nyungwe, but also among its toughest. This
loop trail circumnavigates the head of the Bururi valley, passing
through habitats that range from under-story thickets high on
Uwinka ridge to lush riverine forests 500 meters below. Special
features include great views down and across the Bururi Valley,
some of the finest trees in the park, and four lovely waterfalls.
The Imbaraga Trail should only be attempted by hikers with
enough strength and stamina to manage a long climb up the
western wall of the valley to return to the ridge at over 2400
meters above sea level hence, its kinyarwandan name means
strength. The ascent is continuous for about 2.5 kilometers
and will really get your heart thumping!
From Uwinka Overlook, follow the trail to the BuhoroImbaraga junction and turn right and continue to the junction
with the Igishigishigi Trail. If you follow the Igishigishigi Trail
which forks left from the main trail, you will add the canopy
walkway experience to your hike. Or, you can continue to the
next junction and turn left.
Umuyove trail
Rangiro Road
Igishigishigi trail
Imbaraga trail
Uwinka trail
Irebero trail
500m
Umugote trail
This segment of the trail has four benches for resting or simply
taking in the wonderful and changing views. While relaxing,
Imbaraga Trail 55
dominated by rampant growth of a creeper, Sericostachys scandens, which used to be eaten by elephant and buffalo, but is now growing
with diminished biological control. Colobus monkeys will sometimes descend from the trees to eat it.
Before you know it, you hit the third waterfall. This is the best of the lot a superb series of cascades fanning down angular bedrock
steps to a small crescent pool, surrounded by lush vegetation. The best view of the full formation is from the trail just beyond the cleared
sites formerly used as campsites. From the base of the fall though, youll probably only see the bottom section, which is about 15 meters
high.
After crossing the Bururi River, the trail immediately begins to climb the side of a deep, narrow ravine, on a long series of switchbacks to
the top of the Uwinka ridge, passing a fourth scenic waterfall. On the ascent there are six benches use them! They give you a perfect
excuse to stop without having to admit to being winded and a few great views of the forest to boot. The last bench is located at the
junction with the Uwinka Trail, on the right.
Just after that junction, the trail reaches the top of the ridge, where it continues to climb at a gentle gradient to a junction with the far
end of the Irebero Trail. From that point, the Imbaraga Trail contours around the Bururi River side of the Uwinka ridge on a fairly level
path that coincides with the northern section of the Irebero Trail and the Buhoro Trail. Soon you are at the junction where you began
your hike, and the short but not so gentle climb to Uwinka.
Imbaraga Trail 57
irebero Trail
Elevation (m)
2600
Rating: moderate
2400
58 Irebero Trail
1.0
2.0
Distance (km)
3.0
3.6
This moderate length trail loops around one of the two highest
summits on the Uwinka ridge. It has the highest altitude viewpoints
of any trail in the Uwinka trail network and overlooks the park and
beyond from both sides of the ridge. To the south, youll gaze all the
way across the Rwandan border to the first ridge of Burundi, about 15
km away, as the crow flies. On the northwestern side, youll see Idjwi
Island in Lake Kivu, 30 km distant. In fact, the name Irebero means
place to observe from and that definitely describes the paths many
viewpoints that invite you to pass the time taking in the beauty of
Rwanda.
Imbaraga trail
700m
Like all trails in the area, there are large rainforest trees, wildflowers
and good birding. Handsome francolins are commonly sighted here.
Visitors fresh from low altitudes might choose this trail as their
introductory hike.
Irebero trail
Umugote trail
Imbaraga trail
There are several options for starting the hike. (Refer to the map of
the Imbaraga Trail to see how the whole Uwinka network of trails
interconnect) Hikers may park at Uwinka overlook, meet the guide,
and walk to the Irebero Trail either by road or by taking the Imbaraga
Trail spur down to the main Imbaraga Trail. Walking by road from
Reception to Irebero Trailhead # 1 makes the round trip hike 4.6 km.
Taking the Imbaraga Trail spur makes the total round trip 5.4 km long.
Umugote trail
Irebero Trail 59
Well take you on a loop beginning and ending at Irebero Trailhead # 1. The trail sets off from the road and quickly reaches the Imbaraga
Trail, with which it will coincide for about 2 km. This segment of the hike is on the north side of Uwinka ridge, which overlooks the
beautiful Bururi Valley and beyond to the DRC. The trail contours through pleasant forest and the air is full of bird song, with tree frogs
chiming in. Listen for turacos and even to the sounds of small insect life. In David Livingstones account of his travels in Africa he says,
In the quietest parts of the forest there is heard a faint but distinct hum, which tells of insect joy. One may see many whisking about
in the clear sunshine in patches among the green glancing leaves; but there are invisible myriads working with never-tiring mandibles
on leaves, and stalks, and beneath the soil. They are all brimful of enjoyment. Indeed, the universality of organic life may be called a
mantle of happy existence encircling the world... (Livingstone, David. Missionary Travels and Researches in South Africa). Some of
this mantle of happy existence may seep into receptive visitors to the lush rainforests of Nyungwe.
When the Irebero Trail turns left from the Imbaraga Trail, it starts to cross over to the southern side of Uwinka ridge. In minutes, at the
next junction, youll hit Umugote Trail junction on the right. Those who stay faithful to the Irebero Trail will soon be rewarded with a
gorgeous view across the hills of the southwestern side of the park and beyond to Burundi.
Much of the higher sections of the trail are characterized by dense thicket in the undergrowth. One of the special shrubs of the Irebero
Trail is the relatively rare and strongly aromatic Mimulopsis arborescens. The flowers are white or cream colored with violet-brown nectar
guides and can be seen in mass bloom only once every eight years or so. Youll also find it around Kamiranzovu Marsh. Also on this trail,
in season, you may see the strange, red, tubular flowers of mistletoes, fallen from parasitic shrubs in the tall trees. Catch a glimpse of it up
in the high branches and lean over to surprise your hiking partner with a quick kiss!
Although youre almost done, there is a clearing with another dazzling view of Lake Kivu. Stop here to soak in the sights and mentally
plan for a canoe trip across the lake later on in the week. At the road, turn right and bird-watch along your kilometer walk back to
the reception at Uwinka if no vehicle is there to pick you up.
60 Irebero Trail
umugote Trail
Upper Umugote Trail
Rating: Moderate
Elevation low point: 2350 m
Elevation high point: 2460 m
Cumulative gain: 218 m
Upper Umugote
Elevation (m)
2600
2400
2200
0.0
1.0
2.0
Distance (km)
62 Umugote Trail
3.0
3.6
Umugote Trail 63
ridge, Rugazi Mountain. Immediately beyond those peaks, there is a steep descent to a broad valley, which contains the second largest
marsh in the park.
The Umugote Trail has three junctions with the main road. Trailhead 1 is used as a starting point for the purpose of this description.
Taking this route, you leave some of the altitude gain for your return trip along the main road; this saves a little of your energy since the
road has an easy gradient. As soon as you take a few steps down the path from the road, the first fine landscape comes into view. In the
foreground, there is a Hagenia abyssinica tree, easily recognized by the old brown leaves which seem to remain on the tree longer than
you would think necessary. However, this is a secondary species. Pretty quickly, youll enter pristine rainforest with the usual wide variety
of trees found throughout the Uwinka trail system. Some of the special specimens of this trail include impressive strangler figs. When in
fruit, these trees attract primates, birds and other wildlife.
There is a good chance of seeing monkeys, on the Umugote Trail, especially blue or mountain. If you keep still, some primates will
actually move closer to investigate their human visitors. You may notice some of their narrow paths disappearing into the bush. Other
mammals sometimes seen along this stretch of trail include bushpigs and duikers. Listen for cicadas, crickets, tree frogs, birds and other
primates. Watch the swirling flights of butterflies, brightly colored or camouflaged to blend right into the forest itself.
Birders love this trail for the wide array of species that inhabit this part of the forest and are easily visible from many of the intersects
with the main road. Some guides say there is a 95% chance of seeing a great blue turaco. You may also see red-collared mountain
babblers, a mountain buzzard, handsome francolins, crowned eagles, and, if youre patient and can wait about 30 minutes, yourre nearly
guaranteed to see a purple-breasted sunbird. Listen for blue-headed sunbirds, mountain orioles and the ever-present chesnut-throated
apalis, which sounds a little like a telephone.
The many clearings on this trail, compared to those on the other side of the ridge, provide more sunlit space for flowers to bloom. Soon
after starting on the trail there is a dense bank of begonias by the trail, thriving effortlessly, without a gardener in attendance. Look up
64 Umugote Trail
into the trees for flowers too. Using binoculars, youll spot
orchids, ferns and other epiphytes. One of the more showy
species found on this trail is Canarina eminii a cousin
of the Canary Island bellflower - with large orange bellshaped flowers; you may spot these on the ground or up
in the trees quite unusual behavior for a flower of this
type. Some of the more spectacular tree species on this
trail include waterberry, welcome trees, Tabernamontana
johnstonii, Casiopurea ruwenzoriensis, and East African
yellowwood. Your guide will tell you about their traditional
uses as food, medicine, and in crafts and magic. Speaking
of big thingsif earthworms are any indicator of soil
health, visitors will be impressed by Nyungwes giants.
These worms are half a meter long and as thick as a mans
finger!
When the trail reaches the road, a right turn takes hikers
0.7 km back to the starting point. Alternatively hikers can
turn left on the road, walk along it for 130 m and cross the road to a third Umugote trailhead. This short spur of the Umugote Trail
ascends steeply to a junction with the Irebero Trail. If youre feeling ambitious, turn right onto the Irebero Trail to go higher up on the
same side of the mountain. From the Irebero Trail, youll get some of the same views but from a higher elevation. Alternatively, for those
who like to see what is just around the next corner, walk ahead a few minutes to the junction of the Imbaraga Trail to see what lies on
the opposite side of the Uwinka ridge.
Umugote Trail 65
umuyove Trail
Distance 5.5 m (including
Imbaraga Trail spur)
Elevation (m)
2600
2400
Rating: Moderate
2200
High: 2450
2000
Low: 2120
1800
1.0
2.0
3.0
Distance (km)
66 Umuyove Trail
4.0
5.0
5.5
Imbaraga trail
Rangiro Road
Umuyove trail
Imbaraga and
Umuyove trail
300m
Imbaraga and
Igishigishigi trail
Igishigishigi trail
Imbaraga and
From Uwinka Overlook, follow the trail to the BuhoroBuhoro trail
Imbaraga junction and turn right and continue to the
junction with the Igishigishigi Trail. You will immediately be
surrounded by the serenity of lush, green rainforest and the
pleasant sound of birds, tree frogs and crickets. Many of the trails here are cut into the hillside, providing hikers with chance to peer
into all levels of the forest, from flowering herbs on the forest floor, to thickets of lichen draped lianas and shrubs, to epiphytes, taking
advantage of giant trees for sunlight. If you follow the Igishigishigi Trail which forks left from the main trail, you will add the canopy
walkway experience to your hike. Or, you can continue to the next junction and turn left.
Umuyove Trail 67
The main Imbaraga Trail is reached about 400 m along with the junction of the Buhoro Trail. The Igishigishigi Trail joins from the left
after another 50 m. (Refer to the map of the Imbaraga Trail to see the layout of the whole Uwinka Trial System.) Since most of the
Uwinka interconnect, there are numerous possibilities for variations of the routes given in this book.
At 800m along the path, the Umuyove Trail comes in from the right, while to the left it coincides with the Igishigishigi and Imbaraga
Trails. The Umuyove circuit can be done in either direction but is commonly done clockwise.
Hikers continue to descend the ridge and the trail only gets more beautiful as you venture onwards. Some sections of the path are
covered in moss or carpeted with flowers fallen from the canopy. Impatiens, begonias and numerous other flowers line the sides of the
trail. Here youll find the classic, textbook inventory of rainforest trees of Nyungwe. Your guide will know the names of most of them and
will impart upon you the traditional uses or lore.
The trail continues descending to a steep-sided, narrow valley full of giant tree ferns. At the bottom of the trail, a 12 m high waterfall
spills over a nearly vertical wall of glistening, black rock. Large-flowered, magenta jewelweeds thrive in the moist, sunny clearing.
Now that the easy part is over, youll immediately ascend the other side of the V-shaped valley. After about 0.35 km, the Imbaraga Trail
branches off to the left and Umuyove Trail goes right, continuing up the side of a ridge.
The ascent is gradual, and relieved by several short down hill or flat sections. There are six more benches for resting. The Umuyove
Trail is short enough that hikers are encouraged to indulge themselves in the luxury walking at a comfortable pace, slow enough to
absorb the amazing beauty of Africas finest mid-altitude montane rainforest. Consider taking a minute to remain still and silent. Listen
for cicadas, crickets, tree frogs, birds and the gurgle of the stream below. Watch leaves in the canopy flutter soundlessly. Enjoy the spots
of color of impatiens, begonias, mistletoes and numerous other flowers against the deep, rich greens. Using your binoculars, search
for orchids and other air plants high up in the canopy. Note the amazing variety of ferns, from small grass-like fronds to the lacy
fronds of giant tree ferns found at the bottom of the valley. Although huge trees are a big attraction for this trail, the little things can
68 Umuyove Trail
West of Uwinka
Trails to the west of Uwinka display a potpourri of Nyungwe landscapes, including the Parks highest
waterfall, largest body of water, and the most spectacular display of orchids. Hikers will experience striking
changes in landscapes, whether wandering through tea plantation into dense, tropical forest on the way
to Kamiranzovu Falls or dropping down from the high Afro-montane forest into the Kamiranzovu Marsh.
Birding opportunities abound, especially for those early risers and late afternoon hikers.
70 West Of Uwinka
West Of Uwinka 71
ISUMO Trail
Distance: 10.6 km (if longest
combination of routes is taken
round trip)
Elevation (m)
1950
1900
1850
Rating: moderate
1800
1750
1700
1650
1600
0.0
0.5
1.0
1.5
2.0
2.5
3.0
3.5
Distance (km)
72 Isumo Trail
4.0
4.5
5.0 5.3
Isumo Trail 73
But the ultimate goal at the end of the trail is Nyungwes biggest waterfall and the inspiration for the trails name isumo is waterfall
in kinyarwanda. At roughly 17 m in height, it is even more impressive for the force with which it shoots through a narrow gap into a
stunning amphitheater, lined with fluttering fronds of ferns, flowers and lianas, all thriving in the mist zone of the fall. There are caves in
the overhanging cliffs, and a rainbow in the spray on sunny days. Three km to the east, and 100 m higher in elevation, lies the bottom of
the thirteen square kilometer Kamiranzovu Marsh, which drains over the rim of this water-carved canyon.
You may enjoy the fall from two main vantage points depending upon how wet you want to get. The first is at the end of a short spur,
which leads to a picnic bench overlooking the fall at 50 meters distance. Small trees partially obscure the view. The fall itself can be
reached by descending to the wild river below and then clambering over wet rocks to a large boulder in the middle of the amphitheatre.
From here, youll be thrillingly close to the bottom of the fall, where it thunders down, full blast, nearly at your feet. Watch your footing
on the wet surface as you gaze upward. The water in the fall and the river rushing toward Lake Kivu has a tea-colored tint due to the
tannin content in the waters of the marsh. While youre there, dont forget to look down too. You may be startled by dark brown crabs
scuttling around the dark wet rocks, looking like they have lost their way from the sea. Mist keeps the bench permanently wet but you
will want to stay here for a while to enjoy the awesome beauty and power of this one very special place in the heart of Africa.
Hikers may save 3.2 km round trip by starting at Car Park 1, or 4 km round trip, starting at Car Park 2. The latter is accessible only in
4X4 vehicles and even these can get in trouble if the hard packed, clayey surface is wet. There are two entrances to the forest. Starting
at Entrance 2 saves another 0.25 km. Consider varying your entrance and exit routes. If you like orchids, be sure to include Car Park 2
on your route, even if you do not park there. Look in the scraggly, old jacaranda trees for some of the best views of epiphytic orchids in
the park --right at eye level.
74 Isumo Trail
Isumo Trail 75
kamiranzovu Trail
Elevation (m)
2200
Rating: Moderate
2000
1800
1.0
2.0
3.0
Distance (km)
76 Kamiranzovu Trail
4.0
5.0
5.9
Uwinka trail
Kamiranzovu trail
Kamiranzovu Trail 77
There are two Kamiranzovu trailheads off the main road, 0.7 km
apart. Starting at trailhead 2, to the east, reduces the altitude gain by
about 37 m, unless you plan to do a complete loop. This route also
has a long, lovely descent to the marsh, with fine views. Setting off
from trailhead 1 means you reach the marsh very quickly. If you want
a shorter version of the trip, start at trailhead 1 and explore only the
section of trail bordering the marsh or to view marsh birdlife or plant
life, then return to the road. From trailhead 1 to the far end of the
Orchid loop and back would be about 4 km round trip. Hikers who
do the full Kamiranzovu Trail, but bypass the Orchid Loop, will save
about 0.5 km. For the end of the hike, visitors can arrange a pick-up
at either trailhead or walk back along the road to a parked vehicle at
either end of the loop.
Two of the endemic Albertine Rift bird species found by the marsh are
Grauers Rush Warbler and the Albertine owlet. For the latter, you can
arrange a special trip to the marsh at night, with one of the guides who has a recording of its call. Although not always seen, the owlet
can usually be heard.
Only a small section of trail actually reaches the very marsh itself, and two stretches of boardwalk let the hiker enter with dry feet
getting out with dry feet is the challenge! The wooden-planked walkways are slimy, so walk with care. Wetlands in general are especially
rich in organic life and visitors will find here a contrast to the thickets and rainforest higher up on the trail. One of the boardwalks spans
a corner of the marsh where visitors can view a great variety of wetland vegetation at close range. There are flowering herbs, shrubs,
small trees, orchids, grasses, ferns, mosses and giant lycopods. Soon after stepping on the boardwalk, and in season, one can see the
78 Kamiranzovu Trail
Kamiranzovu Trail 79
Elevation (m)
kaRamba Trail
Distance: 4 km round trip
2400
2200
Rating: easy
2000
1800
0.0
0.4
0.8
1.2
Distance (km)
80 Karamba Trail
1.6
2.0
200m
Karamba trail
The hike begins by an army camp and, except for the final
brief climb to a knoll with a view, follows an abandoned
road, which still appears on old maps. The first few hundred
meters of trail are in very early stages of forest regeneration.
The pebbly trail, made up of sparkly quartz, is a nice change
from slippery trails elsewhere at Nyungwe but it doesnt
drain well and becomes a mini stream in the rainy season.
Half a kilometer into your trip, in the midst of the
environmental disturbance, youll be startled to find a large,
Karamba Trail 81
82 Karamba Trail
standing appears to have been blasted out of the mountainside. It is much rockier than most of the other trails at similar altitude in the
park. Returning to the viewpoint sign, the trail climbs a few short switchbacks through a small patch of forest to the summit. Alongside
the trail are the pretty heart-shaped leaves of the white-flowered Cincinnobotrys oreophila, a true rainforest flower. Even these very small
pockets of remaining forest harbor the seeds and plants of the stock needed to replenish the rainforest.
The small summit looks back down the trail, to a deep valley in the middle ground and beyond, to many layers of overlapping ridges.
There is a viewing bench with a narrow table where you can sit for a light snack or a full picnic. While resting on the summit, listen for
blue monkeys and turacos or watch for the red flash of a turacos wings. Early risers, and especially birders, may want to arrange to come
here with flashlights before dawn one morning, to watch the sunrise over the hills, and to listen to the morning chorus and other diurnal
species come to life.
Karamba Trail 83
uwinka Trail
Elevation (m)
2600
2400
2200
0.0
84 Uwinka Trail
1.0
2.0
Distance (km)
3.0
3.6
Umuyove trail
Uwinka trail
Imbaraga trail
Kamiranzovu trail
Butare Cyangugu Road
700m
Umugote trail
This 17.8 km trail is usually done as a one-way trek. Hikers may set off from Uwinka Tourist Reception Center or from one of the
nearby trailheads along the Huye Rusizi Road. For the purpose of this narrative, the hike begins at the Ireboro Trailhead 2. Starting at
Reception would add another 0.8 km of walking along the road, or a much longer distance by way of the Imbaraga Trail spur.
Uwinka Trail 85
After a little over a kilometer there is a lovely clearing with a view across the park to Burundi. Moments after the junction with the
Umogote Trail, having crossed the ridge, hikers turn left onto the Imbaraga Trail. Youll spill back onto the Uwinka Trail after one more
kilometer. At this spot there is a bench overlooking the rainforest, and a small section of the road where the trail began. Reception is
hidden to the left. The trail contours down hill, with the Uwinka Ridge on the left. Soon, there is a good view of several villages outside
the park, including Banda, and beyond lies Lake Kivu and Idjwi Island in the DRC. Not too much farther down the trail, there is a
bench overlooking Cyurugeyo Ridge. The name is derived from the sheep said to graze there at one time. Inka, in the name Uwinka,
refers to the cattle, which used to find salt here.
The trail soon passes between Uwinka Ridge and Cyurugeyo. For the first time hikers will be on the Kamiranzovu side of the mountain.
For the next several kilometers, the forest is mainly closed, with few views, but here youll really begin to feel like youre in the rainforest.
The trail contours along the sides of several minor ridges, sometimes passing between small prominences, but remaining mostly in forest.
In the rainforest around Uwinka, there are some amazing examples of massive trees leaning out precariously over steep mountainside.
Its amazing that they have the root system to support such tests of gravity! Along this trail there is one that seems to have grown just
one kilo too heavy, and now lies across the trail. Just after stooping to pass under it, look right, at a magnificent welcome tree tall and
straight and with branches that curve up almost at 45-degree angles, as if conducting a symphony.
At the next bench, which requires several meters of ascent off the trail, youll catch a glimpse of Nyanzoga Mtn. Continuing down the
trail, the first view of Kamiranzovu Marsh appears. It is obscured a little, by saplings and larger trees, but Kamiranzovu Marsh is on the
left and there will be tantalizing glimpses of it now and then before the better views appear. The remainder of the path only grows in
beauty, all the way back to the road, and hikers should probably congratulate themselves on a fine choice of trail.
Not far beyond this last bench, there is a dead Carapa grandiflora tree on the right, which looks like it has been clawed or chewed at its
base. Angolan black and white colobus and blue monkeys use it for medicine. Research shows that this tree may contain medicinally
86 Uwinka Trail
Uwinka Trail 87
While looking at the vegetation, listen for the guttural cat-like call of blue monkeys and for other primate voices, tree frogs, mountain
orioles, white-headed wood-hoopoes, the three turacos, Narinas trogon, and the amazing seven voices of the mountain boubou.
The next bench has the highest altitude (2369 m) and affords a good view of the marsh although there will be even lovelier views ahead,
but from lower down. At the far point northwest on the hike, the trail bends around left to continue down the ridge. Soon, through the
trees, you will see the pretty Uwinka Waterfall. The trail crosses a small bridge over a narrow stream for a better view. The fall, about 7
m in height, spills down a cliff, separating into two narrow cascades a third of the way down. Impatiens, ferns, moss and tree ferns thrive
in the moist air around it. There is a picnic bench to the right of the fall.
The trail now continues wandering in and out of much smaller, minor ravines with crossing logs over little rivulets. Hikers will see
increasing numbers of an endemic, glossy, yellow-flowered begonia. The red succulent flowers strewn on the trail are from the welcome
tree. About 2 km beyond the waterfall, youll finally reach the most spectacular view of Kamiranzovu Marsh. Turunga Ridge lies on the
far side. In the foreground there is an impressive, deep ravine, making this viewpoint especially good for photography on a clear, sunny
day.
At the junction with Kamiranzovu Trail, a left turn returns to the main road at Kamiranzovu Marsh Trailhead 2, in about 2 km. Hikers
who feel energetic or ambitious may want to turn right, to explore the edge of the marsh, which will otherwise not be reached on
this trip. Including the Orchid Loop, this would add less than 1 km to the hike, and exit at Kamiranzovu Marsh Trailhead 2. See the
Kamiranzovu Marsh Trail description for more details.
88 Uwinka Trail
Uwinka Trail 89
Primate Viewing
Cyamudongo - Chimpanzees
Distance, altitude gain and estimated time will depend on where the chimpanzees are located. The roundtrip walk for the purpose of
this guide was 4.2 km, with a total altitude gain of about 240 m. This represented roughly an hour of walking and three hours of looking
through treetops mainly at chimps, monkeys and birds.
Elevation at parking lot: 2033 m
Typical low elevation may be 1670 m
Typical high elevation would not much above the level of the parking lot (2033 m), at 2100
Bring binoculars, rain gear, water, and snacks. A walking stick will be provided. Optional: notebook or sketchbook.
If monkeys are fascinating to watch then chimpanzees are riveting. There is something eerily familiar about them. Thus, the
Cyamudongo forest is one of Nyungwes top attractions for tourists from all over the world.
Two groups of chimpanzees are being habituated at Nyungwe National Park; one at Uwinka, and one at Cyamudongo (pronounced
Cha-mu-dongo). The latter is a recent annex to the park about an hours drive from the Gisakura Reception. Located outside the main
boundaries of Nyungwe, this forest is a 4 square km fragment of rainforest, which had survived because it was too steep for cultivation.
90 Primate Viewing
Primate Viewing 91
into thick, tangled undergrowth and tall trees, with butterflies floating around in the warm moist air. Hikers will want to keep both
hands free to negotiate the steep hillside and tangle of shrubs and vines. The birdlife is especially concentrated here with calls of
turacos, hornbills, emerald cuckoo, black cuckoo (with a call that sounds remarkably like Hello, Georgie!), mona monkeys, mountain
monkeys, guenons, insects, and tree frogs. One should not be surprised to hear cows and humans at the edge of the small forest. There
are wafts of perfumed flowers, and although one may see few in bloom along the trail and few at eye level, fallen flowers on the path
testify to their more abundant presence in the sunnier canopy above. The serene atmosphere alone is worth the trip.
Use your eyes, ears, and nose to try to detect signs of chimps such as leafy branches bent around into a sleeping nest, the peculiar spicy
scent of primate dung, the varied loud calls they make or the sound of something heavy leaping or rattling branches in the tree tops.
Hearing their loud pant-hoot is thrilling. Sometimes, as visitors near a chimp and keep quite still, it may come closer to investigate
them, or even leap into the trees above them, showering the visitors with leaves, flowers, fruit and bark fragments. If you do see a chimp
or group of them, your experience will be enhanced if you learn a little about some of their more conspicuous behaviors in advance.
With chimp viewing over, the need for silence ends and the guide will give hikers a natural history interpretation as they return to the
parking area. Not long before the parking lot is back in sight, the trail passes through several particularly handsome buttressed trees
called, Newtonia buchananii.
After moving around on foot through the intensely species-rich diversity of the remnant Cyamudongo Forest, it is interesting to ponder
that the once equally species-rich land surrounding it has been reduced mainly to two species, tea shrubs from China (Camellia sinensis),
assorted species of eucalyptus trees from Australia (needed to fuel the furnaces and dry the tea).
92 Primate Viewing
Primate Viewing 93
forest and is responsible for protecting them. You may wander around the forest only to find the colobus and the odd mona are up in the
pine trees along the driveway near your vehicle.
A central trail bisects the forest, with three minor side trails off to the right and one to the left. Each of these goes back up and out to
different points on the gently graded plantation tracks running the length of each side of the forest valley. The inner forest trails are
slippery and relatively steep, with some steps knee high. Go slowly if you are feeling the altitude. Mercifully, the steep sections are only
minutes long. A single rest bench can be found in the middle of the forest.
If the colobus are at home, the tracker will direct the guide to a particular forest access trail. If the colobus are not around, you can enjoy
a short stroll in the forest or, even better, a pleasant walk along the perimeter, plantation roads, especially to the right of the forest and
at the far end of that section. At that point the plantation track veers right. On a clear day there is a beautiful view of dramatically hilly
countryside all the way to Lake Kivu and the DRC. Because the perimeter road gets lots of sun, there are many species of wildflowers
here not found in the rest of the forest. Among them are bright blue Brillantasia, rich pink Dissotis, and wild ginger. Impatiens, begonias
and a variety of shrubs are found in the lower storey. The forest margin is also a good place for birding.
On the map you may notice a small path at the far end of the forest. This is used mainly by the tracker and is not maintained for tourists.
If you do walk down part of this trail from the right side of the forest, you will literally be rubbing elbows with tea shrubs on your right
and rainforest shrubs on your left. The trail deteriorates quickly at the bottom of the valley, crosses a rather narrow concrete bulkhead
and climbs back out the other side through a patch of juvenile eucalyptus.
94 Primate Viewing
like the flowers in the rain forest. It is very picturesque, and the darker green mountains of Nyungwe in the background add drama. If
you have not done the Kamiranzovu Waterfall Trail, which starts in a tea plantation, be sure to do the tea plantation walk at Gisakura
or Kitabi, and then visit the tea factory. The plantation landscapes with the park or Lake Kivu in the background provide breathtaking
views. If you are staying at Gisakura Guest House, it is recommended that you return through the tea plantation rather than by road.
The views will be worth the extra exercise.
As one nears the factory, the pleasant scent of steaming tea greets the visitor. The facility is quite impressive in size and the process is
fascinating. Through most stages, the leaves are out in the open, so you can watch them being transformed from fresh green leaves to
dark brown tea. The leaves must go through several treatments before being pulverized, fermented, and dried (out of view). The dried,
coarse tealeaf fragments are then ground into increasingly fine particles, which are magically sorted by what appears to be a vibration
action, into different grades. The guide will demonstrate the interesting art of tea tasting
Birding at Nyungwe
A visit to Nyungwe National Park provides excellent opportunities to see a
variety of fascinating birds along the forest paths, including quite a few of the
regional endemic species. Even hikers with only a passing interest in birdlife
will be amazed by a sighting of the great blue turaco, and will be enchanted by
the tiny but vividly colorful Regal Sunbird, which is very common in the park.
Many birds are difficult to see in the high forest canopy or in thickets and yet
still enhance the pleasure of a hike in Nyungwe with their remarkable songs.
Conspicuous songs include the rapid twittering of many sunbird species, the lowpitched chuk-cherook of the Rwenzori turaco, and the ringing telephone song
of the chesnut-throated apalis.
For more serious birders, the Nyungwe trails are especially attractive because
they are home to over two dozen species that are endemic to the Albertine Rift
(the western side of the Great Rift Valley) in central Africa. Several sunbirds,
Ruwenzori turacos and many other species are unique to the African montane
forest habitat. In total, 278 species have been recorded in the park. A full
checklist should be available by request at RDB Headquarters. While all the
trails are good for birding, several in particular are often selected because they
are more open or have access to forest margins, including Karamba and Bigugu
Trails. Rangiro Road and even the main road through the park are also good
Birding At Nyungwe 99
locations because they are open. A number of the parks endemics can
be seen on these roadsides.
Unless you are a world-class expert on African avifauna, you will have
to rely on a park guide to help spot and identify the forest birds. Some
of the guides have very impressive expertise on birdlife in the park and
can identify birds by ear and know the scientific names. More guides
are being trained. Bird walks can be booked in advance at RDB.
The northern hemisphere winter is an especially good time for birding,
when migrant birds from Europe arrive.
Regal Sunbird
Common
Blue-headed Sunbird
Common
Rockefellers Sunbird
Very rare
Purple-breasted Sunbird
Common
Dusky Crimson-wing
Fairly Common
Shelleys Crimson-wing
Uncommon
Handsome Francolin
Common
Short-tailed Warbler
Uncommon
Stripe-breasted Tit
Common
10
Gauers Warbler
11
12
Common
13
Rwenzori Turaco
Common
14
Rwenzori Batis
Common
15
16
Collared Apalis
Common
17
Common
18
Kungwe Apalis
Uncommon
19
Common
20
Red-throated Alethe
Uncommon
21
Strange Weaver
Common
22
Uncommon
23
Uncommon
24
Dwarf Honeyguide
Uncommon
25
Albertein Owlet
Uncommon
26
Rwenzori Nightjar
102 B
Uirding
winka A
Trail
t Nyungwe
Recommended References
Dowsett, R.J., Editor. Survey of the Fauna and Flora of Nyungwe Forest, Rwanda. Tauraco Research Report # 3. Tauraco Press,1990
Fischer, E., & Killmann, D. Illustrated Field Guide to the Plants of Nyungwe National Park, Rwanda. In the series: Flora and Fauna of
Rwanda 1. ORTPN and Koblenz-University, 2008.
Lovett, J.C., C.K. Ruffo, R.E. Gereau & J.R.D. Taplin. Field Guide to the Moist Forest Trees of Tanzania. Society for Environmental
Exploration, London, 2006. Although this book is for neighboring Tanzania, some of the species and many of the genera will be the
same.
Offutt, Katherine, Compiler. Nyungwe National Park Guide. Nyungwe Forest Conservation Project. Indispensable guide to the history,
natural history and conservation of the park.
Stevenson, Terry and John Fanshawe. Birds of East Africa: Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda, Rwanda, Burundi. Princeton University Press,
2006.
Troupin, G. Flore du Rwanda. Musee Royal de LAfrique Central, 1978+. This is a beautifully illustrated (pen and ink) flora of several
volumes, long out of print, but worth getting, secondhand, for the serious botanist.
Weber, Bill, and Amy Vedder. In the Kingdom of the Gorillas. Simon & Schuster, New York, 2001. This book is a pleasure to read and
details the history of conservation in Rwanda, including at Nyungwe. The main focus is on gorillas and Volcanoes National Park.
Weber, Wm, et al. African Rainforest Ecology and Conservation: an Interdisciplinary Perspective. Yale University Press, 2001