Anda di halaman 1dari 1

**

International Herald Tribune


14 Friday, February 11, 2005 FASHION
Is 40 the new 30? Stars redefine age

ANNA SUI
Photos by Christopher Moore/Andrew Thomas

A touch of light By Jessica Michault


Continued from Page 13
celebrity celebration is on the
vampy high heels and
with a Veronica Lake cur-
tain of hair. Tiny cape
sleeves suggested the
1940s and gave a sophisti-
A horizon for Sarah Jessica
Parker, Linda Evangelista,
Elizabeth Hurley, Brooke
Shields, Gong Li, and Diane Lane.
And this is one party invitation
perience? This wealthy group of wom-
en will not easily part with their hard-
earned disposable income on a one sea-
cated, silver screen allure which none of these glamorous women son wonder or flight of fancy.
to the dresses in black or can refuse: Their 40th birthday. With most of the top fashion design-
the season’s favorite teal The big four-O is hitting a generation ers well ensconced in the over 40 age
blue. Mouret is now off to of beauties who are set to become role bracket, what works for the growing
the Oscars, hoping to re- models for what used to be called ‘‘gray’’ market is already familiar terri-
peat his success in dress- middle age. It may still be the moment tory. Therefore, to a certain extent,
ing Scarlett Johansson at to turn a svelte tanned back on the fashion designers will continue to cre-
the Golden Globes. miniskirt. But the old ideas about ate collections as they have always
Fellow Brit Matthew spreading waistlines, desiccated skin, done, building looks that they could see
Williamson has also and matronly clothes have been ban- themselves or their close friends wear-
raised his game since ished by the gym and the spa — and by ing.
showing in New York and a new dynamic attitude. ‘‘I have always been about designing Matthew Peyton/Getty Images; Jean Baptiste Lacroix/WireImage.com; Evan Agostini/Getty Images; Rusty
his collection this week As Diane Von Furstenberg, inventor for women,’’ says Donna Karan, whose Russell/Getty Images; photodesk@splashnews.com; Edu Nividhia-PHOTOlink.org; Carlo Allegri/Getty Images

was another step for- of the seductive and ageless wrap dress arrival 20 years ago on the fashion Stars turning 40 are serving as role models for a new set of women who have
ward. Once known for his puts it: ‘‘Being 40 today is what 30 use scene transformed the working wom- discarded the notion of middle age. Clockwise from left, Elizabeth Hurley, Gong Li,
Bohemian de luxe clothes to be, and 50 is the new 40.’’ an’s wardrobe. ‘‘It is not about losing Brooke Shields, Shania Twain, Monica Bellucci, Linda Evangelista and Teri Hatcher.
with colorful Indian em- A milestone birthday is a time to the sexy and sensuality, but about gain-
broideries, Williamson’s take stock of life achievements — not ing sophistication,’’ she says.
subtle new decoration in- just personal style. But significantly, Another reason there won’t be any
cluded cashmere knits many of the stars who turn 40 this year radical changes in the way top fashion
with sewn-on jewel ef- built their careers by taking advantage houses put together a collection is they
fects — a major trend in of a fashion moment. don’t see a need to woo a 40-year-old
New York — skirts There is Parker’s ‘‘Sex and the City’’ woman who already know which de-
shaped with flat pleats obsession with Manolo Blahnik shoes, signers she looks good in. It is the 20-
and bands of ribbon shap- VIVIENNE TAM Hurley and her safety-pin Versace and 30-something fashion novice that
ing dresses that gown, Shields’s commitment to her designers are looking to bring into the
shimmered with silk and brocade. Anna Sui’s merriment is contagious. Calvin Klein jeans, and Evangelista’s fold, creating new lifetime customers.
After Marc Jacobs’ experimentation As the models pranced out with foxy evergreen modeling career. But now, ‘‘By 40 we know what works for our
with ballooning volumes in his signa- fur hats, multi-colored hose and doll- riding on the coattails of the baby body type,’’ says Lois Joy Johnson, fash-
ture collection, he deflated his Marc like dresses, the designer captured a boomer generation (people born be- ion director at More, a glossy magazine
line, showing how an egg-shaped skirt kooky cuteness. But within the riot of tween 1945 and 1964), these iconic fash- for women over 40. ‘‘We have learned
could work in denim under a small color — dominated by everyone’s fa- ion celebrities and their contemporar- about personal style, it is more about
jacket and a wide skirt as a patchwork vorite teal green — Sui played some ies will be taking on a new appreciating yourself and less about
mini-crinoline with lace petticoats. artful games with proportions. She responsibility. They will become high persecuting yourself.’’
Links to street style included Punk raised the waist on dresses that were profile emissaries for how society While women over 40 might be bet-
plaids and ripped hose. romantic when patterned with butter- defines what getting older looks like ter in tune with what clothing works
Janet Jackson, turning her back on flies or chic in tweed with a metallic and, more importantly, be role models for them, they are also breaking all the
her ‘‘wardrobe malfunction’’ at last twinkle. The artful mix of hot trends on how best to dress the part. age appropriate fashion rules set out by
year’s Super Bowl, was front row at Bill from Cossack fur hats, through jeweled The telltale signs of a shift in outlook their predecessors. Women are no
Blass. In her camel coat, roll-neck cardigans and mohair plaids made the are already showing up in Hollywood. longer letting society dictate what they
sweater and jeans, the singer seemed upbeat show swing. The overwhelming success, both in rat- can wear, and clothes that once identi-
right at home in the spirit of the design- Vivienne Tam celebrated the ings and awards, of the new prime time fied one generation from the next have
er Michael Vollbracht. He had loosened Chinese new year of the rooster with a dramedy ‘‘Desperate Housewives,’’ fallen by the wayside.
up the masculine tailoring in pin- collection intriguingly entitled: ‘‘A about a group of 40-something suburb- ‘‘We are seeing that everything is be-
stripes, houndstooth and window-pane night at the Beijing opera with Greta an housewives, is just one example of ing postponed: kids, marriage, adult
checks and added lacquered lamé sur- Garbo.’’ That meant silver-screen hair- the power this aging generation is life and old age.’’ says Dr. David Metz,
faces for that ray of light. dos, lean pencil skirts that hobbled the weldi ng. co-author with Michael Underwood of
Carlos Miele is a designer-decorator knees and puff-sleeved blouses above Add to this the greenlighting of ‘‘Older, Richer, Fitter,’’ a user’s guide on
— not least because of the patchwork high-rise waists. Among these literate shows like ‘‘Fat Actress’’ starring how to market to the gray generation.
handwork he brings from Brazil — along translations of the theme, such as an Kristie Alley (54) and ‘‘Comeback’’ As each passing year pushes the end state of mind’’ seems to gain credence
with a merry band drumming on the operatic printed velvet coat, the collec- starring Lisa Kudrow (41) about a one- point of middle age farther away, a new by the minute.
runway. But Miele’s collections, once a tion contained key pieces: the cardigan time sitcom star trying to resuscitate vocabulary is taking shape. For Joy Johnson this comes as no sur-
celebration of color, pattern and steamy edged with gilt jewels; empire waist- her career, reveal a trend celebrating Metz sees the future as a more age- prise: ‘‘Women over 40 have never
body exposure, are getting more re- lines; the fashionable teal blue; and sat- grown-up actors and their television- less society, where ‘‘a person’s capabili- looked so incredible. We work out, we
fined. Shades were surprisingly sludgy in or sequin sparkle to light up next viewing counterparts. ties, goals and lifestyle will define watch our diet, we take care of our skin
— river water green and muddy mauve wi nter. If 40 is the new 30, how will design- people more that any number.’’ And — we look hot!’’
— and knitwear covered the torso above ers handle this fashion-savvy demo- with the technical advances made over
chiffon skirts. What was lost in Latin Suzy Menkes is the fashion editor of graphic, which has at least 20 years’ the last decade to help slow or mask the Jessica Michault is on the staff of the
pizazz was gained in elegance. the International Herald Tribune. worth of in-the-trenches shopping ex- aging process, the old adage ‘‘age is a International Herald Tribune.

Anda mungkin juga menyukai