design icons

PLUS:
Exclusives from
the Biennale des
Antiquaires

Suzanne Belperron
Lydia Courteille
Frank Gehry
Pesavento

style diva
Nicole Kidman
and her jewels

63 Holiday
December 2012 February 2013

Sparkling
kling giftft ideas,
ideas,
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brilliant
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ellery
ry
& festive
stive
tive
ve collections
collections
tions

Glam

Reine de Naples Collection

in every woman is a queen

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SIGN IN

Something Bold
Something

OUR REGULAR
READERS WILL
NOTICE OUR NEW
MASTHEAD LOGO, A
NEW COVER FEEL,
DIFFERENT AND
MORE ELEGANT
PAPER, AND A
FRESHER, TIGHTER
LOOK ON ITS
EDITORIAL PAGES.

f there ever was a case for life moving in

circles, it must be the very magazine you
are now holding in your hands. When we
launched Solitaire in 2002, we did so with the
conviction that Asias jewellery industry not
only had come of age, but that it needed a
strong voice on the international stage. With the enthusiastic support
of readers and advertisers alike, the title and its licensed edition in
Indonesia grew exponentially and became a total success.
So much so that eventually we realised that the finite resources
we as independent publishers had at our disposal were insufficient to
grow the title much further. Our conclusion at the time was to sell it
to a first-class international publisher, which could bring the brand to
promising markets in other parts of the world. We found just such a
media house in Edipresse, the owners of the iconic Tatler magazines,
and they took on Solitaire from July 2008 onwards.
Yet, as the saying goes: Life is what happens while you are
making other plans. So when Lehman Brothers went bankrupt just
one month after the handover of Solitaire, all good intentions and
business plans were voided by events unfolding on the international
financial stage. The jewellery industry along with all other facets
of the luxury business went through a brutal contraction, and
business for jewellery magazines evaporated almost overnight. A
significant number of them folded, especially in the US and Europe,
and only due to the determination and tireless efforts of Edipresse
Solitaire was able to survive.
In the end though, everyone with an interest and financial or
emotional stake in this magazine realised that jewellery being such a
very specific and unique industry, it would be better for the magazine
if it were to return to its founders. And with this first redesigned
issue you are reading now, it has done so. Our regular readers will
notice our new masthead logo, a new cover feel, different and more
elegant paper, and a fresher, tighter look on its editorial pages. Overall
though, the tried and tested formula of celebrating humanitys second
oldest profession remains at the centre of all our efforts.
All of us at Solitaire and its sister publications Jetgala and Palace
thank you for your interest and goodwill. We are very grateful.
Rainer Sigel
Publisher

New

CONTENT

34

ontents
8

SIGN IN

Something Bold, Something New

14

TEAM

16

BOUTIQUE

New & Exclusive

FACETS

60

38

34

RED CARPET TRENDS

Hot rocks, cool parties

38

TEMPTING TRANSFORMERS

Jewels with the power of metamorphosis

44

OF STYLE AND SKILL

Mother-of-pearl makes complications

easy on the eye
48

CROWNING GLORY

Hair jewellery gets top billing

54

DIAL DELIGHT

Finding art in the face of time

60

THE NATURE OF TIME

Jewelled watches inspired by flora

and fauna
62

WISHING WELL

The perfect gifts for every lady in your life

64

WHITE KNIGHTS

Snowy dials to match that wintry feeling

72

CROWNING METAL

Silvers style renaissance

74

SET ON TIME

Celebrating 200 years of the first

wristwatch

10

FRANCK MULLER BOUTIQUE SINGAPORE 01-07 ION ORCHARD (65) 6509 3380 B1-19 THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS (65) 6634 8825 MELBOURNE 119 COLLINS STREET (613) 9650 0288 JAKARTA PLAZA
INDONESIA (6221) 310 7608 BANGKOK SIAM PARAGON (662) 610 9423 AUTHORISED RETAILERS SINGAPORE SINCERE FINE WATCHES TAKASHIMAYA S.C. (65) 6733 0618 SCOTTS SQUARE (65) 6636 0600
THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS (65) 6634 9782 SUNTEC CITY (65) 6337 5150 VIVOCITY (65) 6278 1698 SINCERE HAUTE HORLOGERIE HILTON SINGAPORE (65) 6738 9971 WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND
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CONTENT

ontents

56

INTERVIEW
30

A GOOD LIFE

Nicole Kidman
56

CABINET OF CURIOSITIES

Lydia Courteille
76

THE RULE BREAKER

Delfina Delettrez
DESIGN
40

TECHNO CRAFT

Powerful Pesavento

50

50

LIQUID ARCHITECTURE

Frank Gehrys jewelled creations

66

PRECIOUS PORTRAITS

Jewellery that tells a story with porcelain

68

LADY MYSTERY

The life and works of Suzanne Belperron

100

BESPOKE TREASURES

Exploring Jakartas jewellery scene

REVIEW
80

PALACE OF DREAMS

From the Biennale des Antiquaires

86

GRAND GEOMETRY

Bulgaris Biennale debut

KNOWLEDGE
88

COLOURED DIAMONDS

Rock solid assets

92

80

CONCH PEARLS

Precious imposter
STYLE
94

FESTIVE FINERY

Jewelled inspirations for the holidays

106

CHARMED PERFECTION

Bold jewels and timepiece essentials

117

ATELIER

120

GALAS

Sparkling Soires
130

STAR GEMS

A Quarterly Forecast
132

RING GUIDE

134

JEWELLERY SHOW DIARY

136

JEWEL BOX

Dress to Impress
12

COLLECTION LIBELLULE

LALIQUE BOUTIQUE @ ORCHARD MANDARIN GALLERY

Mandarin Gallery

t
4ingapore
t
5




t
&

crystal@lalique.com.sg

TEAM

CONTENT
EDITOR Emilie Yabut-Razon
MASTHEAD & TEMPLATES Sylvia Weimer / Spacelabdesign Sydney
BUSINESS EDITOR Rainer Sigel
EDITOR Katrina Balmaceda
ASSISTANT EDITOR Sandy Tan
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Charmaine Tai
CONTRIBUTORS
Aniko Navai, Charlene Co, Lisa-Ann Lee, Melissa Pearce, Olive Cuenca,
Y-Jean Mun-Del Salle
COMPANY
PUBLISHER Rainer Sigel
MANAGING DIRECTOR Michelle Tay
SENIOR MANAGER, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Jaime Lim
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT EXECUTIVES Shirleen Low, Kelly Li
CIRCULATION & PRODUCTION MANAGER Caroline Rayney
OFFICE MANAGER Winnie Lim
MARKETING ASSISTANT Anne Goh

Passion for jewellery runs in Aniko Navais family.

Her grandmother had a collection of European Art
Deco diamonds, and her mother accessorised her
haute couture Dior gowns with custom-made pieces
by Cartier. Throw in her Hollywood connections, and
youve got the perfect jewellery correspondent to the
stars. In this issue, she shares a recent interview with
superstar Nicole Kidman.

CONTACT
120 Lower Delta Road #13-11
Cendex Centre, Singapore 169208
T: +65 6273 0620
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EMAILS
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WEBSITES
MAGAZINES www.solitairemagazine.com | www.jetgala.com
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DIGITAL EDITIONS & DOWNLOADS www.digital.solitaire.com
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SOLITAIRE is published quarterly and circulated throughout the
Asia-Pacific. Opinions expressed are those of the contributors and not
necessarily endorsed by the Publisher.
COPYRIGHT NOTICE
All rights, including copyright, in the content of this publication are
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are not permitted to copy, broadcast, download, store in any medium,
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TRADEMARK NOTICE
The masthead logo SOLITAIRE is a Registered Trademark of Oriental
Publishing Pte Ltd, Singapore. All rights are cumulatively reserved
by Oriental Publishing Pte Ltd, Singapore. Their protection will be
pursued to the full extent of the law.
Printed by KHL Printing Co, Singapore
MICA(P)144/09/2012
PHOTO CREDITS
COVER Photography: Brendan Zhang
Stylist: Furqan Saini
Hair & Makeup: Andrea Claire
Jewellery: Petite Fleur watch and earrings in white gold with diamonds,
Breguet
ATELIER OPENER Image courtesy of Piaget

www.orientalmediagroup.com

14

In this issue, Sydney-based writer Melissa Pearce

talks to Frank Gehry. Aside from covering the movers
and shakers of the industry, Melissa equally enjoys
profiling emerging design talent and iconic brands.
She also writes travel and lifestyle features beyond
the jewellery box. Melissa is restless by nature and
will journey far for a good meal.

In this issue, Lisa-Ann Lee traces the story and

unforgettable designs of Suzanne Belperron. Apart
from exploring trends in the jewellery industry, she
also writes about interior design, the arts and luxury.
Her work has appeared in business and lifestyle
publications in Asia.

A freelance journalist and editorial consultant who

has lived on three different continents, Y-Jean MunDel Salle is no stranger to change. A peripatetic
lifestyle such as hers allows her to move easily among
cultures and come face-to-face with inspirational
individuals in pursuit of excellence. She finds joy
and solace in writing and contributes regularly to
regional and international titles, shining a spotlight
in particular on art, architecture, design, horology
and jewellery.

Hong Kong Shanghai New York

by appointment only: Tel: +852 2191 9282 info@scarselli-asia.com

www.scarselli-asia.com

BOUTIQUE

Sea of
GOLD
Australian jeweller Linneys
presents its latest collection, created
from South Sea pearls, burnished
gold and diamonds. The South
Sea gold pearl earrings feature a
pair of cultured pearls and a mix of
diamonds in a flower design, while
the Diamond Cuff is studded with
74 round brilliant-cut diamonds
set along a polished concave of
textured cross sections.
www.linneys.com.au

Full Circle

When the late Nicolas G. Hayek bought

the 1794 Breguet No. 5 pocket watch a few
years ago, he set his watchmakers to the
task of reproducing the timepiece using
the techniques of older days. Breguet
accomplished this by taking apart the original
movement down to the tiniest screw and
photographing the parts. The succesful
replica is now on sale and on tour around
selected Asian cities.. www.breguet.com

Snake

Bites

To celebrate the coming Chinese New Year, Roberto Coin has

designed a unique piece using the cobra, a symbol of sacredness
and wisdom. The bangle coils round the arm. Blue sapphires,
colourless and black diamonds form the skin of the snake, while
rubies make up the eyes. www.en.robertocoin.com

Degem introduces toi et moi, a collection of coloured

gemstone rings that come in pairs, designed so that both
rings can be worn at the same time or separately, as a sign
of friendship or family ties. The rings come in white, rose
and yellow gold, and a variety of gems, including rubies,
diamonds, beryl and aquamarine.
www.degemdiamond.com.sg

lion in the snow

Chanels new jewellery watch collection, Mademoiselle Priv, opens the door to the
intimate world of Gabrielle Chanel, showcasing cherished symbols she loved to
have around her. In the Montre Constellation Du Lion watch, stars and a majestic lion
are ablaze in a blue translucent enamel dial, with grain- and invisible-set diamonds.
The white-gold case also features snow-set diamonds. www.chanel.com

16

Jewelmer Tropics Collection

BOUTIQUE

CABLE
ZSAR

David Yurmans son and now creative hand at

the jewellery house, Evan Yurman has released
the brands first high jewellery collection, which
features one-of-a-kind pieces with tourmalines,
black opal, rubellites, and pav diamonds. Both
the Emerald and Diamond Earrings and Rubellite
and Colour Change Garnet Pave Mosaic Cuffs
are one-off pieces with the brands signature
cable pattern base. The earrings are an unusual
set with a platinum inlay and mother-of-pearl
backing, while the cuff uses 17 uniquely shaped
Madagascar rubellites.
www.davidyurman.com

LUXE
& lacquer

Los Angeles-based jeweller Azature has

created the worlds most expensive nail
polish, the Azature Black Diamond,
containing 267 carats of black
diamonds. Black, in traditional
Chinese culture, is colour reserved
for royalty. Only one bottle of this
luxurious lacquer has been produced
and is going for USD250,000. The
fancy shade will also be available in
more wallet-friendly versions, with just
one black diamond per bottle. www.
azature.com

Cartier introduces its line-up of evening

bags for the party season. Available in satin,
goatskin, red lacquer, python skin or crocodile
skin, these exclusive clutches have clasps
encrusted with diamonds and cabochons of
cornelian, onyx and chrysoprase. The purses
are hand-woven using silver thread and silk to
create a glistening spider web effect, or dyed
in silver or gold hues. www.cartier.com

Night Pride
Light
Safari
David Moatisi of Botswana recently
designed the award-winning Zebra
Neckpiece. His work, based on the
theme of emotional bonds between two
people, was presented at the Hong Kong
Jewellery & Gem Fair in September. The
masterpiece features 2,848 black and
white diamonds totalling 73.17 carats
set in 18k white gold.

18

BOUTIQUE

Ceramic
Spectrum
Etienne Perret specialises in colour-enhanced
diamond jewellery, turning eco-friendly
materials into wearable pieces that are perfect
for both sexes. His collection, Ceramique, is
fully customisable. Customers have a say in
every step of the process, choosing the colour
of the ring, and the colour and number of
diamonds. Rings are available in widths from
2 to 20mm, and can come in polished, silk or
matte finishes. http://ceramicjewelry.com

Legacy Counts

Our 175th anniversary is the perfect occasion to showcase these one-ofa-kind jewels, which reflect Tiffanys legacy, says Jon King, executive
vice president of Tiffany & Co., about its latest collection that
features many of the rare gemstones first introduced by Charles
Lewis Tiffany himself. Among the pieces presented are the
Tiffany Anniversary Tanzanite Necklace, which has a 175ct tanzanite
complemented by a cascade of round diamonds, and the Tiffany
Anniversary Ring, which features a vivid greenish-blue diamond of
2.51 carats, bordered by white diamonds. www.tiffany.com

MINUTE
SPARKLES
20

Hot Deco

Designed by Camille Miceli, the Dior Grand

Bal golden tattoos are intended to look like
gold jewellery that can be pasted on whenever
you want. These temporary tattoos are made
using 24k gold leafing. Each limited edition
set includes cuffs, chain bracelets, charms and
rings. www.dior.com

Glitz
& Glam
Recently presented at the Kensington
Palace in October, Hartmanns Pink
Diamond Cocktail Ring stood out with
its simple yet elegant design. The ring
is set in white gold, with a cushion-cut
Fancy Intense Purplish Pink/S2I2 2011
Argyle Pink Tender stone. Framing
it are six cushion-cut diamonds and
two pear-shaped white diamonds,
completed with 106 small white
diamonds bringing the jewellery to 2.42
carats. www.argylepinkcollection.com

De Grisogono is set to shine with its latest collection, Tondo by Night. Just
45 minutes of exposure to light natural or otherwise is needed to get
the watch sparkling. The case and the buckle are made from a composite
called Pearly Photo-luminescent Fibreglass, which creates the light effect.
Available in six bold colours, the watch is set with precious stones on the
bezel, as well as the rotor thats visible on the dial. www.degrisogono.com

BOUTIQUE

Arabian
Legends
Cinderellas
New Slippers
Like most women, I have a lifelong
love of shoes, says Sarah Hutchings
of Orsini Fine Jewellery. Teaming up
with fellow New Zealander, footwear
designer Kathryn Wilson, they
recently created what is thought to
be the most expensive pair of shoes
to date. Using a special adhesive,
Hutchings gave Wilsons classic courtheeled shoes a makeover by placing
more than half a million dollars worth
of white diamonds on them.

TimeTable

Paying tribute to the Oriental Ball held in Paris in

1969, Van Cleef & Arpels has created the Izmir set as
part of their Bals de Lgende collection, comprising
a set of matching earrings and necklace. While the
earrings are studded with pink and purple spinels
and rubellites, the necklace features an intricate set
of jewels including opal beads, topaz, and a 50.79ct
yellow sapphire. www.vancleefarpels.com

GOLD

on the go
Sberbank in Kazakhstan is distributing one hundred Visa Infinite credit
cards to its wealthiest clients. The USD100,000 card is made of gold
and embedded with 26 diamonds and mother-of-pearl. Approximately
USD65,000 goes into minting the card, while USD35,000 remains in
the bankers account. Owners also receive lounge access at airports,
discounts at hotels and restaurants, and life and health insurance.
www.sberbank.kz

Frdrique Constant has released a new table clock that incorporates a

modern yet timeless look. The lid is cleverly designed to double up as
a watch stand. The finely brushed and polished 94mm stainless steel
case and crown encase a white dial with deep black oxidised hands
and hour markers. Two quartz movements allow a second time zone at
6 oclock. www.frederique-constant.com

22

With the central body

made out of jade, the
dragon pendant by
Zannetti features a 800
silver cap displaying a
rhodium finish. The lower
part of the pendulum
displays a body made
of white gold, which
holds the Swiss quartz
movement sporting a
dial made of fire opal.
The entire pendant is
embellished by round
brilliant-cut diamonds,
rubies, emeralds, blue and
yellow sapphires.
www.zannetti.it

DANCE OF
THE DRAGON

5 8 * , $ ' $ &2//(&7,21

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00DLQ/HYHO7KH6LDP3DUDJRQ%DQJNRN7KDLODQG7HO

VHWWH#VHWWHSHFFDWLFRPZZZVHWWHSHFFDWLFRP

INTERVIEW

30

life
NICOLE KIDMAN

a good
by Aniko Navai

Nicole Kidman has done countless interviews

over the years, yet she still appears reserved and
even a little shy, especially when it comes to her
private life. Its been an amazing journey for
the iconic actress, who at 45 is enjoying a loving
marriage with country singer Keith Urban,
and their two young daughters, four-year-old
Sunday Rose and two-year-old Faith.
OPPOSITE
Nicole Kidman wears
vintage jewellery
from Cartier to The
Paperboy premiere at
the 65th annual Cannes
Film Festival
THIS PAGE
Bracelet with step,
modied, baguette
and bullet-shaped
diamonds in platinum,
Cartier New York, 1929;
bracelet with baguette,
French, round old- and
single-cut diamonds
and step-cut emeralds
in platinum, Cartier
Paris, 1926

ver the course of her career,

Kidman has immersed
herself in both blockbuster
and indie characters, many
of whom have taught and
inspired her. Her latest project is a biopic on the
late Princess of Monaco and legendary actress,
Grace Kelly.
It was the day after the Emmy Awards when
Kidman and I sat to chat about her life, and from
her gorgeous Antonio Berardi dress and dangling
Fred Leighton diamond earrings, she was back
to city chic, wearing a thin sweater and matching
pencil skirt by LWren Scott in mustard, a colour
that seemed to match her bright outlook on life.

DO YOU FEEL AS COMFORTABLE AS

YOU LOOK ON THE RED CARPET?
I know the head of the Cannes film festival
very well because Ive been there so many
times now that it sort of feels like coming
home. So yes, Im probably more at ease with
being on the red carpet, but then theres an
enormous amount of energy coming at you.
When I step away from it and Im back in my
real life, theres a dreamlike quality to it. Its
made better when you have a partner, when
you have somebody who loves you and whom
you love, who balances it all.

AND YOUR HUSBAND, KEITH,

PROVIDES THAT?
The balance of my life particularly is what I

31

INTERVIEW

OPPOSITE PAGE
Nicole Kidman wears a
studded Versace gown
and Fred Leighton
jewels to the 2012
Golden Globes

I am and what I want to do is so

much greater than when I was a
teenager, and I cant wait to see
what its like in my 50s.

YOUVE BEEN MARRIED SIX

YEARS NOW...

RIGHT
Nicole wearing earrings
in platinum with round
old-cut diamonds, by
Cartier Paris from 1923

need, and [the time] when I didnt have that

was when it was far more frightening for me.
Im really just one of those people that does
very well with my mate, my partner, my lover.

FOR AN ACTRESS SO ACCOMPLISHED,

WHAT HAS THE JOURNEY BEEN LIKE
FOR YOU?
At 45, Im still completely fascinated with the
human journey and the journey were on as
a collective, trying to understand what makes
us all tick.

LOOKING AT YOU ITS HARD TO

BELIEVE YOURE 45.
I feel a bit more tired and I ache a little more
sometimes, and I have two young children,
which is spectacular. I mean, to be raising
these little girls at this age is such a great gift
but at the same time I dont have the stamina
that I had in my 20s.

IS THERE ANYTHING IN PARTICULAR

YOU WOULD STILL LIKE TO
ACHIEVE?
Intellectually and emotionally my desire as
a human being is to live a well-examined
life. Its to have more compassion, more
kindness, more understanding and hopefully
do things in this world that are relevant. At
this age, I think my understanding of who

Has it been that long? Well, Keith

is just a very genuine person. Hes
very thoughtful. Im his biggest fan
and Im very lucky to have him.
And its great to live in Nashville
because movies are kind of nonexistent there. Its the centre of country music
and so Im kind of on the periphery there, a
really nice place for me to be.

YOU AMAZED US WITH YOUR

TALENT AS A SINGER IN BOTH
MOULIN ROUGE AND NINE. DO YOU
HAVE PLANS TO PERFORM WITH
YOUR HUSBAND?
Weve shared the stage for charity me
singing back-ups, but anything professionally
no. Every now and then we get asked to do
stuff together and the only way wed do it
is if its a one-off thing to raise money for
something. Im too shy and hes too good. He
doesnt need me pulling him down.

AS WE GET MORE MATURE, OUR

STYLE AND OUR SENSE OF FASHION
CHANGES. CAN YOU DESCRIBE
HOW NICOLE KIDMANS STYLE HAS
EVOLVED, ESPECIALLY NOW THAT
YOURE PLAYING GRACE KELLY IN A
BIO-PICTURE?
Yeah, that plays a huge part. I went through
my jeans and T-shirt stage and now that Im
playing Grace Im like okay, I love clothes at
the moment because Ive been doing fittings
with Dior and Chanel and Im wearing
Cartier jewels and its unbelievable. Its
beautiful. She was just magnificent in her

I love clothes at the moment because Ive been doing

XXMRKW[MXL(MSVERH'LERIPERH-Q[IEVMRK
'EVXMIVNI[IPWERHMXWYRFIPMIZEFPI
32

style and her taste. And theres the man who

does the hats and hes the son of the milliner
that did Graces hats so its kind of almost
rejuvenated my love of fashion, and I see it as
an art form again. In my 20s I just loved the
European and avant-garde, and then I went
through a down-to-earth stage where I didnt
have the time to dress up, and now Im sort of
back in love with it again. Ive run the gamut
in my relationship with fashion and style.

SO IF WE CATCH YOU ON AN
AVERAGE DAY WHAT WOULD YOU
BE WEARING?
Now at the moment playing Grace, I would
hope that you see Im dressed.... I mean,
my husbands like Wow, youre dressing
differently and Im like Um hum. Im
wearing skirts. Im putting on heels and Im
sure thats because of the film. Its rubbed off
on me.

WHAT DOES LUXURY MEAN TO

YOU NOW? DO YOU APPRECIATE IT
MORE, OR LESS THAN BEFORE?
Probably less. I mean Im still appreciative
but the simplest things in the world now are
the most important to me. And I think when
I was starting out I was far more starry-eyed
about the materialistic side of things. Then
you go okay, I know whats important and
whats valuable in my life. But when Im
playing a character like Grace Kelly, all of that
has to rise to the surface again. I suppose
because Im so absorbed in her right now Im
kind of seeing the world through her eyes.

WOULD YOU EVER CARE TO WRITE

YOUR LIFE STORY?
Im the kind of person that has had an
enormous amount of experiences. Things
have gone on in my life but Im very private.
Im never going to write a book and I
probably would never make a film about any
part of my life. Its just who I am. Its a bit how
I was raised and at the same time its out of
respect for people.

YOUVE BEEN REPRESENTING

OMEGA. CAN YOU TALK ABOUT YOUR
AFFILIATION WITH THEM?
My dad always had gorgeous watches and

so when Omega first came to me, which was

years ago, and asked me to work with them,
it was like the perfect fit in a way. They have
exquisite craftsmanship, and theyre just a great
company to work for, very philanthropic which
is something that is important to me. Omega
contributes in a big way to the UNs womens
issues.

SPEAKING OF WATCHES, WHAT DOES

TIME MEAN TO YOU?
Right now that links to the question of being
45. Time is so precious and I think it becomes
apparent, as you get older. There are so many
things you can buy, but you cannot buy time.
And thats why we always try keeping our family
together, because you cant get time back.

33

FACETS

RED CARPET TRENDS

by Fiona Low

Inspirations taken from winters

majestic ppalette
As temperatures fall and the sun-drenched
drenched days of summer
begin to cool, celebrities on the worlds
orlds red carpets are
taking fashion cues from the changing
nging landscape. Gone
are the neon hues of summer. Autumn
tumn and winter colours
are making their appearance in jewellery
wellery as the stars
accessorise with burnished reds, browns, emerald greens,
and gold, with a smattering of fancy
cy coloured and brilliant
diamonds. The sumptuous, rich hues
ues of the season are
a fail-safe way to add a touch of glamour
amour to any outfit,
as can be seen on leading ladies like
ke Naomi Watts,
Sofia Vergara and Angelababy. These
ese shades work
equally well with complementary tones or as an
accent piece. Watts, who will portray
ray the late
Princess Diana in her upcoming movie, Diana,
goes for brown and cognac diamond
ond earrings
and a nude gown, while Prometheus
uss star
Noomi Rapace pairs a raspberry ring
ing with a
contrasting hunter green frock.
Soa Vergara at
the Emmys wearing
45ct pear-shaped
diamond earrings, a
20ct divine diamond
ring, and multiple
diamond with emerald
bracelets from Neil
Lane; 4ct diamond
ring from Hearts
On Fire
Noomi Rapace at
the 2012 Venice
Film Festival
wearing the Bulgari
Heritage ring

34

Hong Kongs
Angelababy at the 2012
Venice Film Festival
wearing 16ct fancy
yellow pear diamond
earrings and a high
jewellery Serpenti watch
from Bulgari

FOPE.COM

FACETS
Naomi Watts at the
69th Venice Film
Festival wearing a pair
of rose-gold earings
set with brown and
cognac diamonds from
Chopard

Jamie Lynn Sigler

at the Emmys with
raspberry rhodolite
earrings and bracelet
with brilliant and
chocolate diamonds in
18k strawberry gold.
All from Le Vian
Violante Placido wears
ruby and diamond
jewellery from Bulgari
at the 2012 Venice Film
Festival; Serpenti cuff in
white gold with rubies
and diamonds

Style
Tips
1. Striking winter tones like Jamie
Lynn Siglers
Sigl raspberry rhodolite
bracelet and
a earrings in rose gold
will jazz up
u monochromatic
ensembles
ensemble
2. Stick to varying shades of the
same colour
colo for a polished getup.
Violante Placido looks resplendent
in a scarlet
scarle dress with matching
jewels, clutch
clu and lippy
diamonds work better in large
3. Icy dia
rather than dainty
ornate pieces
pi
accessories. Take a cue from Soa
accessori
Vergaras show-stopping combinaand earrings
tion of bracelets
br
at the Emmys
Em

36

Diamonds

FACETS

tempting
transformers
TRANSFORMER JEWELS
by Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle

Jewels that display the magic

of metamorphosis
Convertible long necklaces, moveable motifs and playful pieces fitted with ingenious
mechanisms are all the rage this season. These secret pieces may undergo sudden
transformations, so that a bracelet becomes a brooch or a necklace turns into a bracelet. This
reflects jewellers current obsession with the concept of dual function, a sense of mystery and
concealment, and an ingenious and imaginative approach to ornamentation.

Van Cleef & Arpels

glorious Mysterious Phoenix
necklace showcasing a
14.36-carat pear-cut diamond
and rubies mounted in the
houses famous Mystery
Setting, a technique it
patented in 1922, features a
phoenix motif that may be
detached and worn as a clip.

38

Boucherons mysterious
Perle au Trsor treasure chest
in diamonds, pearls, opals and
mother of pearl is a great technical
innovation, turning a precious
object into multiple pieces of
jewellery. Requiring more than
3,000 hours of work, this perfect
sphere paying tribute to the art
of marquetry conceals a world
of wonders. It opens and unveils
a necklace, two brooches and a
bracelet like a secret jewellery box.

A platinum necklace from

Cartiers Luxuriant Landscape
high-jewellery collection, featuring
a 91.34-carat emerald drop from
Colombia, a pear-shaped diamond,
and brilliants, transforms into a
nature-inspired brooch.

Whether its in the lines, volumes

or gems, the variations on the
same theme stars and comets,
symbols that coloured Gabrielle
Chanelss imagination are those
of a virtuoso. The multiple
p ways
y of
wearing the claspless toile Filante
renew the codes of the necklace.
Of rigid construction, yet with a
fluid feel, it drapes the chest with
a constellation of diamonds and
ends with a stunning five-pointed
star embellished with an opulent
8.8-carat round-cut diamond,
which may be unfastened and used
as a brooch.

39

DESIGN

PESAVENTO
by Olive Cuenca

Craft

te hno
Powerful designs of creativity and skill
40

DESIGN
DESIGN

C
OPPOSITE PAGE
Pixel rings in silver and
rhodium, pink gold
and ruthenium plating,
from the Vento925
collection
ABOVE
Elastic silver mesh
chains, earrings and
cuff from the DNA
collection, in tones of
pink and grey

hannelling art into jewellery

design can be hit or miss, but
its a challenge the creative
duo of Marino Pesavento and
Chiara Carli of Italian brand
Pesavento Srl has mastered in
the last two decades. The couples
skillful creations, rendered in gold or silver,
have garnered numerous accolades for
their unique combination of technological
savvy and Italian craftsmanship. Pieces
that resemble miniature sculptures have
piqued the interest of fashion houses and
international celebrities because of their
unusual textures, element of whimsy and play
of light and colour.
Creating jewellery requires a total
immersion in the world of beauty, art and
harmony, say designers Marino and Chiara,
who founded Pesavento in 1992, adding that
the process is poetry in the essence of form,
and a journey to new horizons where design
enhances desire.
Fuelled by a strong creative vision that
continually seeks to innovate through
technology, Pesaventos founders believe that
crafting a masterpiece begins with a clear

concept and must be backed by top-quality

materials, technique and superb Italian
workmanship. As with art, a graceful balance
of skill and harmony is required of each
piece. Chiara adds: We knew exactly what we
wanted a silver and gold jewellery company
projected towards the future; and innovation
based on creativity, aesthetics, culture, skill in
material transformation and know-how that
distinguishes real Made in Italy production.
Among the inventive duos very first
creations was the Incontri collection, featuring
necklaces, rings and bracelets in gold, with
a minimalist yet bold style. Drawing on the
richness of the metal, the designers created
smooth, highly polished coil-like loops
held together by spring clasps they created
especially for the line.
In 1994, Pesavento launched three new
collections Oceania, Gallattica and Saetta.
Two years later, the company followed through
with the Arena collection, which features
intertwining chains of yellow and white gold.
All their pieces showed a gorgeous fusion of
materials and modern design, cementing the
brands unique design style.
In the same year, the brand released the
yellow- and chocolate-gold Safary necklace
with a tusk-shaped pendant embellished with
black spinel. The use of black spinel proved to
be a hit, paving the way for the brand to create
more gem-studded pieces, including the Bowl
rings series, which featured row upon row of

41

DESIGN

As with art, a graceful balance

of skill and harmony is required
of each creation

pav diamonds as the focal point.

Part of the companys Vento 925
Collection, which celebrates the beauty
of silver, the Pixel range was greeted with
much enthusiasm, showcasing a multitude
of spheres in rhodium, pink gold and
ruthenium plating.
In 2010, Pesavento introduced a
remarkable innovation when it released its
Sigili rings range. Each piece is rendered in
PVD and features large central stones. PVD
is a new technological process that permits
atoms of precious metal to be deposited
through evaporation onto the surfaces of
precious metals to form an extraordinarily
tenacious structure, Marino explains.
This success was followed by another
cutting edge design: the Polvere diSogni or
Stardust collection, a range which Marino
and Chiara call designer jewellery that looks
to the future. Using a newly developed
technology that uses powder from
crushed precious metals and
gems to bond with silver,
they have created pieces
with unique sandy
or rock-like textures,
never before seen in
jewellery.
Their latest
masterpiece, the DNA, is

42

even more unorthodox. Helical elastic mesh

in coloured silver form chandelier earrings,
tiered necklaces and cuff bracelets that are
supple and lithe with a strong core so as to
be completely flexible, allowing wearers to
tighten, twist, wrap and move them around
exactly as they wish.
Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year,
Pesavento is presenting Burlesque, a limited
edition collection of 99 pieces featuring
jewellery in rose gold studded with diamonds
that are packaged in natural python-skin
cases made for the occasion. Burlesque
captivates and speaks well of the brands
incredible journey and strong fascination for
jewellery making.
As the founding designers look back
at their two-decade-long creative journey,
Marino and Chiara exhibit the same
enthusiasm as the very first day they started
the business. Their creative flame has never
dimmed, and they continue to surprise with
sculptural, sensual works of art.

ABOVE
Polvere di Sogni silver
rings and bracelets in
shades of rhodium, pink
gold and ruthenium,
coated with glittering powder in various
colours
BELOW, FROM LEFT
Bowl rings in gold
with pav diamonds;
Burlesque, a limited edition collection made in
pink gold studded with
diamonds

90 Anniversary

www.moraglione.com

th

It aly Custom made design available upon request

Exclusive Dealer for Malaysia: Poh Kong Jewellery, Kuala Lumpur

FACETS

Cartier

The maison uses

Tahitian mother of peaarl
for the dial of its Tempees
Modernes de Cartier
watch. The timepiece
cleverly references
the Charlie Chaplin
film Modern Times by
decorating the dial witth
diamond-encrusted
gears. Rotating the
bezel makes the gears
turn along with the
main hour and minutee
subdial.

S
tyle
Skill
MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIALS
by Katrina Balmaceda

Mother of pearl makes complications easy

on the eye and elegant on the wrist

44

Dior

The fashion house heightens the

technical appeal of the VIII Grand
Bal Plume 38mm automatic. Based
on the Dior Invers calibre, it
displays the oscillating weight on the
dial side instead of the back, using
white gold adorned with feathers and
diamonds, set against a dial of black
Vietnamese mother of pearl.

FACETS

Breguet

The Reine de Naples reference 8908 with a flexible

gold chain strap references the original watch made
by Abraham-Louis Breguet for the Queen of Naples
200 years ago, which supposedly came with a strap
of braided hair and gold thread. The egg-shaped dial
is made of black Tahitian mother-of-pearl a first
for a Breguet watch with a moon-phase indicator,
power-reserve indicator, central hours and minutes
subdial, and small seconds subdial.

Bulgari

The 2012 Bulgari Diagono

Chronographe for ladies comes
in either a steel-and-ceramic or
rose-gold-and-ceramic case with
the brands logo, with a diamondstudded, mother-of-pearl dial.
A rubber strap adheres to the
collections sporty style, along with a
chronograph function with separate
hours, minutes and hands subdials
and a date-display window.

Van Cleef
&Arpels
p

This years Poetic Wish ladies

watch portrays a Parisian scene
with engraveed gold, enamel and
sculpted motther of pearl. In
tune with thee entire collection, it
tells a story off yearning lovers. A
five-minute reepeater activates
the figures and
d uses
either a man or a
woman to tell the
hour, while a kiite
tells the minutees.
Its charming
and, as they say,
its complicated.

46

FACETS

HAIR JEWELS
by Emilie Yabut-Razon

Crowning

Glory
Hair jewellery gets
top billing

Showing off jewellery takes a creative turn as necklaces,

brooches and rings find their way to elegant up-dos.
Pearls, jade, diamonds and coloured gems have been
spotted on celebrity tresses at recent red carpet events. At
the Met Ball for instance, stars like Naomi Campbell, Kate
Hudson and Jessica Alba all donned hair jewels demistyle, pinned back on sides or headband-style.
Giving your coiffure a little art and sparkle is
something Chinese jewellery Su Jie Feng knows well.
He founded SocoSo, a design studio that aims to bring
Chinese traditional art to modern times through jewellery.
In ancient China, women used hair ornaments to
denote social rank, as love tokens, and to signify that
the young woman had reached marriageable age. These
were fashioned from jade, gold, silver, ivory, bronze and
carved wood, depicting auspicious symbols from flora
and fauna. This tradition inspired Su Jie Fengs Go Ahead
collection, which presents ornate jewels that can be
used as hairpieces, featuring white jade, diamonds and
tourmalines set in 18k gold.

Go Ahead ring and

hairpiece with emeraldcut tourmaline,
diamonds and white
jade in 18k brushed gold

48

DESIGN
OPPOSITE PAGE
Frank Gehry designed
a brooch for Tiffany
& Co. based on his
Guggenheim Musuem
Bilbao. The brooch
features 692
baguette-cut and 14
square-cut diamonds
set in platinum;Torque
concrete bangle and
ring by Gehry for
Tiffany & Co.

Liquid

50

Architecture

FRANK GEHRY
by Melissa Pearce

A burning fascination for the craft, driven

by small-scale works of art
He calls architecture frozen music and his
lyrical lines are infused with bold expression.
The indefatigable Frank Gehry threw
another curve ball into his unrelenting and
overachieving schedule when, at the age of 76,
he began working with Tiffany & Co. to create
jewellery. Six years and eight collections later,
the worlds most famous living architect is
still enjoying learning new skills: marvelling
at the way pendants leave an imprint on the
dcolletage, and getting excited by sterling
silver mesh that folds like fabric. Trading
grand scale for small scale in one elegant
sweep.
Known for his gleaming spaceship-like
structures that seem to be from a distant and
hyper-intuitive galaxy, Gehry is the idealised
and idolised global brand ambassador for all
manner of innovating endeavours. The Walt
Disney Concert Hall is sometimes referred
to as one of his baubles, but the so-called
jewel in his crown and the most notably
bedazzling for jewellery enthusiasts

is his Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. In a

Vanity Fair survey of the greatest work of
architecture since 1980, more than half of
the 52 esteemed architects and critics who
chimed in lauded it as the landslide winner.
The titanium-clad building has brought his
peers to tears and was deemed by New York
Times architecture critic Herbert Muschamp
as the reincarnation of Marilyn Monroe.
Gehry acknowledges that his works
are an ingenious pairing of visionary eyes
and expert hands. He might be one of the
centurys boldest thinkers but he gets a kick
out of collaboration and his grand results are
born from an energetic dialogue between
players. He has compared the architectural
process to jazzs improvisation and he seeks
it out continually. His first collection for
Tiffany & Co. in 2006 was the result of a
three-year project where he, along with the

51

DESIGN

Gehry is the
idealised
and idolised
global brand
ambassador
for all manner
of innovating
endeavours

52

brands senior vice president in charge of

merchandising and the designers, met at sixweek intervals, sometimes on the West Coast
and some times on the East.
As the first new collaborator Tiffany &
Co. had courted in 25 years (Paloma Picasso
was the last in 1980), Gehry joins a handful
of illustrious designers that the jeweller has
hired since its inception: Elsa Peretti, in
1974, and the late Jean Schlumberger, in
1956. During the launch of his collection, he
told the Los Angeles Times of his side-project
imperative: I am always looking for things to
do that give me instant gratification because
buildings take so long. With architectural
projects often averaging five- to seven-year
partnerships, he is pleased with the speed at
which jewellery can be completed, and no
doubt, its lack of officious building codes.
Gehry is not the first architect to explore
jewellery, but the sensuality of his oeuvre
has translated so arrestingly well to the craft.
Gehrys work often reflects twisting bodies or
biotecture clad in a skin of shimmering and
undulating metal, like his 76-storey residential
building, 8 Spruce Street in New York, or

Pragues Dancing House. Its revealing, too,

that he has said on several occasions that he
enjoys looking at women and how they use
jewellery as a fashion statement.
Materials are another linking point
between his day job and his Tiffany &
Co. releases. Gehry has always celebrated
the pedestrian in materials, albeit in very
uncommon imaginings. He is fond of
concrete and first trumped chain-link and
plywood before the titanium swathes of
recent decades. Jewellery, less precariously
poised on the structural security of materials,
has allowed him to experiment even more.
His first collection used black gold,
cocholong stone, pernambuco wood and
raw-cut diamonds. Last year, his Torque
line was made from white bone china and
watercolour bangles, hand-painted by Gehry

himself in red, green, blue and grey. In July,

the brand released the Modern Concrete
Torque, his signature design infused with
an edgy monochrome twist, with sterling
silver ridged like the bars that reinforce
poured concrete or asphalt structures in the
construction world. His Paper collection a
few years ago featured earrings, brooches
and bracelets in 18k yellow gold made to
look like crinkly paper. He has also explored
agate, rhodonite, jade and palma nera wood.
Adulation does not sit well with
Gehry. He is much more comfortable
being what he calls Joe Schlepper. Yet
he is a living and breathing trademark
that can reinvigorate a whole city with a
masterstroke, but with a refreshing modesty
and accessibility that is almost unbelievable
if it werent so genuine.

FROM LEFT
77-Fish
Fish necklace in
sterling silver, onyx,
nephrite green jade,
acacia wood and
pernambuco wood;
Hearts necklace in
sterling silver with
curved and reective
surface, inspired
by billowing sails;
Necklace in white gold
mesh, Keshi pearls and
diamonds; Handpainted bangles in bone
china; Frank Gehry
launched his rst jewelry
collection in 2006 ;
Fish drop earrings with
diamonds in 18k white
gold

53

FACETS

DIAL ART
by Emilie Yabut-Razon

ial
Delight
Finding art in the face of time
54

OPPOSITE PAGE
Jaeger-LeCoultres
Rendez-Vous Tourbillon
Enamel watch
THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
Cartiers Santos Dumont
XL Horse Motif in
18k white gold; Cape
Cod Coup de Fouet
timepiece by Herms
with self-winding movement H1928; Vacheron
Constantins Year of
the Snake timepiece
features four windows,
indicating minute, date,
day and hour

eyond the often hidden inner

life of a watch, a true masterpiece
reveals itself at first glance in
the layers of mother-of-pearl,
enamelling, guilloch and precious
gems that make up an elegant
wristwatchs dial. In those very
few centimetres of precious metal,
watchmakers tell their spellbinding tales.
Cartiers Santos Dumont XL Horse Motif was
created using more than 400 pieces of tesserae,
cut in different sizes and shapes, including
Kalahari jasper and pink opal. Two mosaic
techniques were used to create an image of a
horse, hand-engraved in gold and edged in metal
piping. The manual-winding watch comes in a
limited edition of 50 pieces, 10 of which have
baguette-cut diamonds.
Inspired by its famous scarves, Herms
presents the Cape Cod Coup de Fouet timepieces
featuring dials created through
grand feu (high-

Each design carries a

different shade brown,
chamois, dark blue and
light blue
temperature) enamelling. Each design carries a
different shade brown, chamois, dark blue and
light blue. The watches are self-winding with a
power reserve of 55 hours.
Jaeger-LeCoultre has launched its romantic
Rendez-Vous collection with the Wild Rose and
Tourbillon Enamel watches. Both feature
a rose motif: the Wild Rose plays on
a pastel palette in mother-of-pearl,
with diamonds on the bezel, lugs and
dial; the Tourbillon Enamel comes in
more fiery tones, using enamelling
in opaque and translucent shades
accented by diamonds.
From Vacheron Constantins
Mtiers dArt series come The
Year of the Snake models from the
Legend of the Chinese Zodiac
collection. The dials come in
18k gold, with a hand-engraved
platinum or 18k gold snake,
and grand feu enamelling. The
watches are fitted with the
automatic calibre 2460 with
hour, minute, day and date
indications.

55

INTERVIEW
LYDIA COURTEILLE
by Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle

Cabinet
of Curiosities
56

The Gardens of
Xochimilco collection,
illustrated by Natalie
Shau for Lydia
Courteille

Discovering Lydia Courteilles jewellery

is like stepping into a curious, fantastical
world filled with powerful, thoughtprovoking themes
It was an exceptionally beautiful, vibrantgreen turquoise recently discovered in
Turkmenistan that got Lydia Courteille to
dream up a unique jewellery collection of
one-off pieces named Amazonia, which
reinterpreted the flora and fauna of the
Amazonian rainforests. Frogs, snakes,
creepers and butterflies were transformed
into rings, brooches, earrings, bracelets and
necklaces, mixing green garnets, emeralds
and diamonds. This latest collection straight
from the French jewellery designers vivid
imagination is perfectly in line with the
Baroque spirit and duality of her jewels
that are both unsettling and reassuring, as
the wearer steps into an unknown, surreal
universe inspired by nature and history.
After visiting an antique jeweller in
the hope of repairing an old wristwatch,
Courteille discovered a passion for jewellery
which led her to become an expert gemologist
and start collecting 18th-century jewels. She
started designing 30 years ago in Paris, which
led to her creating custom pieces for her
regular clients in 1989. In 2008, she gained
international exposure when her creations
appeared on the
catwalk with
Alexis Mabilles

haute couture collection and during the

Prada boutique presentation. Today, her oneof-a-kind creations are sold worldwide.
An expert in jewellery history, her
collections often incorporate vintage jewels,
such as cameos set in Baroque-styled rings,
adorned with precious stones and unusual
materials like hair of Venus rock crystals
and laguna blue opals from Peru. Solitaire
sits down with Courteille as she shares her
journey.

TELL US ABOUT YOUR CHILDHOOD

AND HOW YOU KNEW YOU WANTED
TO BE A JEWELLERY DESIGNER.
I was born in Paris in a family that was
never related to jewellery. My father was
an electrician and my mother a housewife.
It was a classic, strict Catholic family and
the only escape for me from a quite boring
and monotonous reality was dreaming and
fantasising.
As a little girl, I was extremely curious
about science and fashion a double
personality which probably led me to what
I am doing now. I was at once interested in
stones, minerals and archaeology, using every
opportunity to go to the museum and learn
more about it and, at the same time, I spent
hours sketching imaginary fashion collections.
It was pure destiny that led me to jewellery
creation. I once stepped into a jewellery shop
and have never actually been able to leave it.
I then started collecting and selling antique
jewellery, got my gemologist diploma and,
some time later, created my own pieces.
TELL ME ABOUT YOUR
COLLECTION OF ANTIQUE
JEWELLERY AND HOW YOU
INCORPORATE VINTAGE PIECES
INTO YOUR OWN JEWELLERY
DESIGNS.
I started my collection with some very
small pieces. It has grown with time as my
knowledge and experience have increased.I
became an antiquities expert. Antique dealers
have always tried to perfect the pieces they

57

INTERVIEW

have in their possession by adding extra

diamonds, changing the setting, etc. My idea
was to give new life to pieces that had been
done very nicely but set very poorly. Take
antique cameos, for example: nobody was
wearing them anymore, but when I set them
in amazing rings, they became beautiful
and bold statement pieces. I also quite
often use antique gemstones, for they have
a quality that is very different from what we
have nowadays on the market. Back then,
precious stones were hardly modified with
any chemicals, hardly ever heated. So even
though they are not as shiny or clear, their
colour is simply extraordinary.
DESCRIBE YOUR DESIGN STYLE
AND APPROACH.
When I start creating, what really counts for
me is the pleasure of assembling precious
stones, ideas, symbols. It takes time to create a
relation between a stone and an idea.
As I love working with colour, I usually
start by collecting a particular gemstone. I
then put it aside for a while; when the right
time comes, I just take them all out and start
creating a brand-new collection. I never force
myself toI just wait for the right time to
come.
TELL ME ABOUT YOUR SOURCES
OF INSPIRATION.
My inspiration process is long and quite
complex because it requires being extremely
attentive not only to what happens around
me, but also to what happens inside of me.
I collect ideas, phrases, memories. It could
start with a little drawing I made on a piece
of paper or a painting I saw at the Louvre;
different images and ideas that I experience
crystallise and become something new. There
are so many things that inspire me: French
poetry (To Cassandra collection), Masson
crosses (Esotericism collection), nature (My
Secret Garden collection), and travelling
(Amazonia and Xochimilco Garden collections).
DESCRIBE YOUR LATEST
COLLECTION, AMAZONIA, AS

58

WELL AS SOME OF THE MOST

SPECTACULAR PIECES OF
JEWELLERY YOU SELL.
When I started the Amazonia collection, what
counted for me the most was the very bright,
vivid-green turquoise colour. I felt that this
green gave me a source of fresh air, allowing
me to breathe.
For me, it was a beautiful way to resist
the polluted urban life to dream about
tropical forests, plants and animals and feel
the freshness of pure oxygen. The most
spectacular pieces I make, such as cuffs,
necklaces and rings, are more than just
jewellery to me they are my objects, my
mini works of art, things to look at and play
with.
HOW MANY PIECES OF JEWELLERY
DO YOU MAKE ANNUALLY?
I create all throughout the year and have
almost no vacation. Creation is such a natural
process for me, a natural state of mind. As
I create in a very spontaneous way, there is
no strict number of pieces I make per year. I
would say between 200 and 300 pieces. Most
of them are one-of-a-kind creations.
WHAT KIND OF WOMEN DO YOU
CREATE JEWELLERY FOR?
The woman who wears Lydia Courteille is
full of courage; she is cultivated and looking
for emotion and creativity. These women are
maybe a little bit shy, so they try to transmit
their inner personality through the jewellery
that they wear. Wearing my creations is like
sending out a code. The woman who wears
Lydia Courteille jewellery is not showing off
her money she is showing off her taste.
She is a free and sensual woman.

CLOCKWISE,
SE FROM
TOP LEFT
Monkey bangle in 18k
black rhodium gold, pink
coral ower centrepiece
with diamonds, tasvorites
and rubies; Crocodile ring
in 18k black rhodium gold
with 80ct Paraiba centre
stone, brown diamonds
and tsavorites; Coiling
snake hoop earrings in
18k gold, tsavorites and
rubies; Mexican ora- and
fauna-inspired brooch in
18k black rhodium gold,
re opals, sapphires,
garnets and diamonds

Lynks Fine Jewellery Boutique

15 Le Loi, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, HCMC, Vietnam
Tel: (+84 8) 3827 2211 - (+84) 989 158 751
Email: thanhhoang@lynk.vn - Website: www.lynk.vn

Lynks World High-end Fashion and Skincare

30 Dong Khoi, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, HCMC, Vietnam
Tel: (+84 8) 3826 8268 - (+84) 908 210 582
Email: dat.vo@lynk.vn - Website: www.lynk.vn

FACETS

1 Chanels Montre
Pluie de Cristal comes
in 18k white gold, rock
crystal and diamonds;
2.Vacheron Constantins
Kalla Haute Couture
Pampilles is the newest
offering in the watch
manufacturers muchacclaimed Kalla collection 3.Damianis Mimosa
collection depicts the
delicate ower using
rubies and sapphires in
shades of red and pink;
4. Piagets Limelight
Garden Party Ref.
G0A37185 watch comes
with 1,023 brilliant-cut
diamonds on the dial
and a bracelet made
of 130 white Akoya
pearls; 5. Chopards
handwound LHeure du
Diamant watch is made
in 18k white gold and
fully set with navettecut and brilliant-cut
diamonds (model image
courtesy of Dior)
60

the
JEWELLED WATCHES
by Katrina Balmaceda

of

Radiant flora-and faunainspired watches light up

this seasons lookbook

ake a merry statement this season with flora- and

fauna-inspired jewelled watches. White diamonds,
cool sapphires and fiery rubies transform timepieces
into dazzling displays of nature on ones wrist.
With all fully jewelled watches, subtlety is not the name of the
game. All are meant to surprise and delight. Some designs lean
towards refinement, while others are suitably bold. For instance,
a closer look at Chopards LHeure du Diamant reveals a pattern
of leaves formed by the diamonds on the strap. What looks
like a broken geometric pattern on the dial of Chanels Montre
Pluie de Cristal turns out to be a diamond flower surrounded
by undefined shapes like a flower that has fallen from
its tree coming to rest on the ground amid scattered twigs
and leaves. Jewels are perfect for secret watches: diamond
leaves cover the dials of Piagets Limelight Garden Party Ref.
G0A37185 and Vacheron Constantins Kalla Haute Couture
Pampilles. Damiani pays an ode to nature with its Mimosa
watch bracelet, which uses varying shades of rubies and
sapphires to resemble a generous sprig of red and pink mimosas
twined around your wrist.

61

FACETS

GIFT SUGGESTIONS

ell
^
by Fiona Low

Wishing

Find the perfect gift for every

woman in your life

Shopping for a woman can be one of the hardest things in life, more
so when you have to battle the holiday throngs to hunt for the perfect
present. This festive season, let Solitaire help take the stress out of your
shopping. Whether its a boss youve been trying to impress, or the
little sister you dote on, weve put together a selection of gifts theyre
sure to cherish.

Boss

Shes a powerhouse in the

boardroom and the mere sound of
her approaching Louboutins sends
fear into many a heart. Butter up
the bigwig with this pav diamond
Philip Stein Prestigee watch in rose
gold, Coil on the Rockss rings from
Garavelli, or Chanels Perle de Rosee
bracelet, that all say classy with a
touch of fierce.

62

Mother
-in-law
Score some brownie points
with an elegant accessory for the
mother-in-law, whos hosting this
years holiday cocktails. Think
refined, subtle pieces in muted
tones like this pair of Stefan
Hafner pearl earrings with pearshaped diamonds from the Venuss
collection, and the Eden bracelet
watch by Damiani.

Little
Sister
She still believes in fairy tales and has been waiting for
her Prince Charming since she was nine, but you adore
her just the same. Dote on little sis with a saccharine
sweet pink opal Chaumet ring. Studded with purple
sapphires, diamonds and red spinel, itll appeal to the
princess in her. Add a coral watch bangle from the Frey
Willies Magic Sphinx collection to match.

Best friend
Shes a laugh to be around and the life of
every party. Go crazy with bright colours
and a quirky design for the confidante
who is cool enough to pull it off. Let her
she s unique with Harry Winstons
Winston s
know shes
Premier Feathers Lady Amherstt watch, a deep
pink tourmaline and sapphire ring from
Hemmerle, and Tiffany & Co.s Bird on a Rock
brooch with diamonds and green tourmaline
set in 18k gold and platinum.

63

FACETS

PATEK PHILIPPE

FROM TOP TO
BOTTOM
Patek Philippes
Nautilus Ref. 5726/1A010, Nautilus Ref.
5711/1A-011 and Nautilus Ref.5980/1A-019

by Emilie Yabut-Razon

Snowy dials to match

that wintry feeling
There was the rose-gold year, an all-black year and
a techno-look year for watches. This time around,
the trend charts point towards white. Very few
manufactures can deliver white dials that impress,
and Patek Philippe aims to do just that with its
Nautilus. Launched in 1976, the iconic watch with its
black-blue dial and horizontally embossed pattern
now comes in white, and the collection counts three
new additions:
The Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-011 comes in steel,
with a silvery-white dial in a 40mm contoured case,
equipped with the automatic calibre 324S C, with
a date in an aperture and a central-sweep seconds
hand. The Nautilus Ref. 5726/1A-010 features an
annual calendar movement with the day of the week,
the month, moon phases and a 24-hour indicator on
the dial. The 40.5mm watch comes in stainless steel.
The Nautilus Ref. 5980/1A-019 is a chronograph with
a tone-on-tone monocounter at 6 oclock. Fitted with
the calibre CH 28-520 C, the watch is the sportiest
of all three new models. Gold hands and applied
hour markers on all the watches are blackened
for increased readability on the silvery-white
dials during daytime, and are adorned with
white luminescent coating for night reading.

White
64

Knights

DESIGN
THIS PAGE FROM
LEFT
Pug pendant in handpainted porcelain in 18k
rose gold and one white
diamond; Follia chain
in 18k white gold with
white diamonds and
handpainted porcelain; Forget-me-not
amethyst Mystery ring
in 18k rose gold with 60
champagne-coloured
diamonds and handpainted porcelain

MEISSEN JEWELLERY
by Katrina Balmaceda

recious
portraits
Jewellery that tells a story with
painted porcelain
Fine jewellery is not the first thing that comes
to mind when one thinks of Saxony, Germany,
the land of cakes, clocks and watches. But
Meissen, which has produced porcelain works
of art in the region for 300 years, is confident
of carving a bejewelled reputation for the
region.
Although Meissen has created accessories
for decades, it only recently took a determined
step towards developing its jewellery
collection, having opened its first Meissen
Joaillerie mono-brand boutique last April. A
few of its pieces, such as the Love Letters rings
and some items in the 1722 Swords collection,
are made solely of precious metals and stones.
Its Royal Blossom rings are adorned with

66

diamond-studded golden flowers.

Most of the pieces, however, show off the
companys expertise in miniature-painted
porcelain. Dragons, Arabian nights and forgetme-nots are depicted in the Mystery collection.
Varying in colour theme from amethyst to
black and white, the porcelain paintings are
surrounded by white or champagne-coloured
diamonds and framed by white gold or rose
gold, and are either mounted on a ring or
hung as a pendant on a chain. Similarly, each
Meissen timepiece comes with a porcelain
dial either hand painted or plain in a
diamond-studded golden case and a lizardleather strap. More intricate creations are
found in the 1SRXKSPrVIrange, in which each

CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Blossoms Mystery ring
with white porcelain,
rock crystal, 18k rose
gold and 420 white
diamonds; Bird House
in 18k rose gold, 18k
white gold and 433
white diamonds, with
birds handpainted on
porcelain; Meissen
Joaillerie Timepieces
with diamond-studded
18k rose gold case,
handpainted porcelain
dial and lizard leather
wristband

necklace features a round porcelain ball or,

in some pieces, a freshwater pearl painted
with a scene, such as houses along the Venetian
Grand Canal or the Lutheran church in
Dresden, the capital city of Saxony.
Birdhouse pendants that combine the use
of gold, diamonds and porcelain count among
Meissens objets dart. But perhaps most
memorable is Le Club du Mops. Although it is
based on a design by Meissen created in 1740,
its renaissance has received a warm welcome
and Le Club du Mops remains one of the
companys most endearing collections, beloved
by some famous style icons. It presents only one
design: a pug pendant formed in porcelain,
of course that comes in black or white, with a
leather necklace to match.

67

DESIGN

68

SUZANNE BELPERRON
by Lisa-Ann Lee

FROM LEFT
Two scroll pins
described as brilliantly
clamped colossal
clips of crystal and
diamonds, photographed by Horst
P Horst for Vogues
October issue, 1935
(image courtesy of
Siegelson)
Gold and diamond
ring, Yin et Yang,
circa 1923. Suzanne
Belperrons engagement ring, set with an
old-mine diamond offered for the occasion
by her future husband,
Jean Belperron

It takes a measure of confidence for an

artist to leave their work unsigned, and the
late French jewellery designer, Suzanne
Belperron, certainly had no lack of it. When
asked why she refused to leave her mark on
her creations, she famously replied that her
style was her signature.
Whether she had any inkling that her
jewels would be so coveted after her death is
anybodys guess, but the decades following
her passing in 1983 have shown that the
cult reputation they enjoyed among royalty
and society mavens has not diminished. If
anything, time has only heightened their
allure. In November 2011, a Belperron
bracelet featuring tourmalines, peridots, beryls
and coloured sapphires fetched a record
price of USD350,000, more than double its
pre-sale estimate. Six months later in Geneva,
Sothebys conducted a white glove auction
of 60 jewels from her personal collection that
fetched triple its pre-sale estimation, a total of
USD3.5 million.

Belperron, like her fabled creations, was

a study in contradictions. Intensely private,
she never gave interviews and insisted on
receiving her clients, accepted only through
referrals, at her apartment in Paris (although
it is said that she made an exception for the
French novelist Colette). With a clientle that
read like a Rolodex of societys finest her
patrons included the Duke and Duchess of
Windsor, Diana Vreeland, Elsa Schiaparelli
and Gary Cooper she was content to
remain in the shadows where the public was
concerned. As the late Manhattan jewellery
expert Barry Weber once noted: Although
she is very famous in our industry, she is not
a household name, such as Cartier or many
of the other famous French designers... [and
her work is] so rare that we seldom see it and
it hardly ever comes available on the market.
Belperron never sought fame or fortune; even
though jewellery houses such as Tiffany &
Co. expressed interest in collaborating with
her, she turned them all down, preferring
to remain in France working out of her
apartment.

Famously reclusive,
the late Suzanne
Belperron was one of
the most important
jewellery designers of
the 20th century. But
who was she?

69

DESIGN

Her curvilinear
pieces hinted at
the rebellious
spirit behind
her elegant,
reserved
countenance

Despite her reclusive personality,

Belperron was far from timid. She grew up
during the suffragette era with the belief that
women were capable of doing anything to
which they put their minds, and during the
Second World War she insisted on remaining
in Paris despite receiving no shortage of offers
to help her escape. Indeed, she was granted
the rank of the Knight of the Legion of
Honour in 1963 in recognition of her efforts in
the Resistance.
Despite not being born into the jewellery
trade, Belperron showed an aptitude for
design early on and was encouraged by her
mother to study art at the cole des BeauxArts in Besanon. After graduating, she moved
to Paris where, after a brief stint working at

700

Cartier, she joined the house of Boivin in

1921. It was here, at the height of the Art Deco
movement, that one started getting glimpses
of her inimitable personal style. In contrast
to the angular, geometric designs that were
all the rage at the time, her curvilinear pieces
hinted at the rebellious spirit behind her
elegant, reserved countenance.
Her style was finally allowed to flourish
when she left Boivin in 1933 to partner with
Bernard Herz, a dealer in precious stones
who gave her carte blanche with her designs.
The years that followed saw Belperron
breaking many of the established rules that
governed the industry. An avid traveller, she
incorporated various techniques and stones
she had picked up during her sojourns

OPPOSITE PAGE,
Suzanne Belperrons
idiosyncratic designs
have set the precedence for many high
jewellery collections
that we see today
(Image courtesy of
Sothebys) (inset)
Pineapple-shaped
citrine earrings, with
gold leaves and
yellow-gold mount;
rock crystal and
diamond brooch in
descending scroll
design
THIS PAGE,
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Natural pearl and
diamond brooch, circa1935; Fleur sapphire
and diamond brooch,
circa 1945; Sapphire
and diamond ring,
circa 1945; Diamond
bangle in white gold;
Cuff in yellow gold
with tourmaline, emerald, beryls, peridot
and sapphires. It holds
the record for most
expensive Suzanne
Belperron bracelet
sold at auction

abroad, never allowing herself to be awed by

the material value of the stones she worked
with. Indeed, as illustrated by the sapphire,
diamond of Windsor, she was fond of mixing
and matching precious stones with semiprecious materials such as rock crystal, smoky
quartz, chalcedony and agate.
Belperron was fascinated by fluidity and
movement, as well as the way the stones
reflected light. As a result, her rings were
often sculptural in design and her creations
were marked by voluptuous curves and swirls,
employing unique settings not found in any
other jewellery house. Some of her favourite
motifs were those found in nature grapes,
flowers, leaves, birds and butterflies and
her gold jewellery often bore a distinctive
textured finish. Describing the hallmarks
that set her apart from her contemporaries,
the journalist Ccile Sandoz wrote in a 1961
edition of the San Francisco Sunday Chronicle
that her jewels possessed an abstract fluidity

Her clientele read like a Rolodex of

WSGMIX]WRIWXERHMRGPYHIHXLI(YOIERH
(YGLIWWSJ;MRHWSV(MERE:VIIPERH
Elsa Schiaparelli and Gary Cooper

of form, a Pharaonic or Aztec sheen that gives

a centuries-old patina and a highly personal
technique of setting precious gems in larger
semi-precious stones.
Belperron continued working through
the war. Unable to save her business partner
from being taken away by the Nazis, she
did the next best thing and registered the
business that they shared under her name so
that the Gestapo would spare it. Herz died
in a concentration camp but his son, who
was taken as a prisoner of war, survived and
she renamed the company Herz-Suzanne
Belperron when he returned in 1945.
After she passed away at the age of 82, it
seemed for a while as though her name was
destined to fade into obscurity. However, the
1987 Sothebys auction of the Duchess of
Windsors jewellery collection ensured that
her name would continue to be remembered;
this resurgence of interest reached new
heights in 2007 when her complete personal
archives, which she was rumoured to have
destroyed, were discovered in a small,
nondescript apartment in Paris.
Today, her jewels are being reissued by
New York jeweller Verdura, which bought 22
jewels from the May 2012 Sothebys auction.
Just as they were the talk of society when
Belperron was still alive, so are they now as a
new generation acquaints itself with her work
and legendary style.

71

FACETS

David Yurman

David Yurman has recently launched a new jewellery

collection, Labyrinth, highlighting a combination of
diamonds, coloured gemstones and silver. Bangles and a
pendant necklace from the collection echo David Yurmans
signature cable design featuring a curved, twisted helix in
sterling silver laced with 18k yellow gold.

Crowning
SILVER JEWELLERY

etal
by Sandy Tan

A style renaissance in the making

Indeed, all that glitters doesnt always have to be gold. Silver mostly seen as a mere
setting option, rather than the star of the piece, is coming into vogue. In ancient times,
silver was mined to create ornaments and jewellery as status symbols and tokens of
wealth. We are now witnessing a renewed desire for this precious metal, for its lustre,
understated, sculptural quality and better affordability. Several high jewellery
brands have started offering fine silver collections for the very first time:
some with minimalist appeal, others with avant-garde aesthetics, but
all complemented by precious gemstones.

Hemmerle

Hemmerles skillful juxtaposition

of materials is evident in this pair
of earrings, featuring silver and
iron set against white gold and oldcut diamonds. The Munich-based
jeweller began creating avantgarde pieces in 1995. A client,
who preferred less fanciful and
Berlin iron jewellery, had inspired
Hemmerle to explore different
types of metals in its designs.

72

Vahan Jewelry

New York-based Vahan Jewellerys moir-beaded

sterling silver and gold bracelets, first introduced in
the 1990s, are cemented as timeless classics. Its latest
designs feature sterling silver and 18k yellow gold,
studded with diamonds. Vahans bracelets are a modern
interpretation of the jewellers whimsical Neptune
Bracelet, created in 1969 for Bergdorf Goodman.

Damiani

Italian jeweller Damiani has launched its

first silver and diamond jewellery collection,
Damianissima.925. The collection includes silver
rings and pendants which feature a diamond-set
structure in the shape of the letter D, interpreted
from Damianis logo. Mother of pearl is used in
softer, more delicate designs while darker tones
are created with onyx.

Ferragamo Jewels

Salvatore Ferragamo debuted its jewellery

collections this year, presenting the
Scarpina, Intreccio, Futurista, Vara and
Gancino lines. Designs such as the Vara
silver cuff and Scarpina gold and silver
pendants were inspired by materials
used in Salvatore Ferragamos fashion
collections, such as the buckles that
embellish its bespoke shoes.

We are now witnessing a

renewed desire for silver
coveted for its lustre, sculptural
quality and better affordability
Tiffany & Co.

Style is to be simple, Elsa Peretti, known for

her asymmetric, organic jewellery and natureinspired designs, once said. She has designed
a selection of sterling silver jewellery for
Tiffany & Co. The Bone Cuff sits well on the
wrist while the Feather Cuff sports more fluid
lines with an infinity shape in sterling silver
and black jade.

73

FACETS

BREGUET
by Charmaine Tai

Set on
Celebrating 200 years
of the first wristwatch

Two centuries ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet designed

the first known wristwatch for Caroline Murat, the
Queen of Naples. It was ahead of its time: an ultrathin minute repeater with an oblong case, equipped
with a thermometer and mounted on exceptionally
fine wristlets of hair entwined with gold thread. To
celebrate this milestone, Breguet recently unveiled
a limited edition timepiece, the Reine de Naples
anniversary special, together with its high jewellery
collection.
The watch is the latest in the line of Breguets
Grande Complications. Like Caroline Murats watch,
the timepiece has a striking mechanism, marking
every hour with two chimes repeated thrice. The
striking hammers are shown on the dial, at 1 and 11
oclock, and between them is a diamond heart of a
rose engraved in gold. A hand-engraved oscillating
weight in18k gold and decoration seen through
the sapphire crystal caseback form an image of a
Mediterranean-style garden pavilion identical to
the residences of Caroline Murat. The case is an
ovoid shape in 18k white gold featuring a finely
fluted caseband. The bezel and caseband are set
with 28 brilliant-cut diamonds and 27 blue
sapphires, while the crown features a large
briolette-cut diamond. The silvered gold dial
and its flange are paved with 233 diamonds
and 303 blue sapphires with different nuances,
presenting a subtle colour gradient. And as a final
touch, the watch is mounted on an alligator strap
with a folding clasp set with 26 diamonds.
The Reine de Naples jewellery set comprises a ring,
pair of earrings, necklace and tiara, all in platinum.
The central motif of the jewels in the set is an ovalcut blue sapphire, surrounded by two ovoid rings
paved with baguette-cut diamonds in an echo of the
case of the first wristwatch.

74

INTERVIEW

the rule
DELFINA DELETTREZ

reaker
by Melissa Pearce

of Curiosities
76

INTERVIEW

Delfina Delettrez
treads a playful line
between the gothic
and the ironic that
can make even spiders
look cheerful

OPPOSITE PAGE
Spiders web cuff
THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
Metalphysic cuff in
gold with white marble,
cats eye, turquoise
and onyx; Metalphysic
necklace in gold with
pearls; Elizabeth Lips
single earring in gold
with ruby

he may not take herself

too seriously, but
Delfina Delettrez has a
deep regard for artisans.
She is daughter to
Fendis head of accessories, Silvia Venturini
Fendi, and she is also part-French, her father
being jewellery designer Bernard Delletrez.
Its no surprise therefore that her works show
an obsession to detail, being so obviously
wired into the familial DNA.
Her childhood was spent in Rome, Rio
de Janeiro and a village in the south of
France. She now does shows in Paris, but
Rome is where she has based her workshop.
Alongside the best in the profession, Delettrez
brings her tongue-in-cheek creations to life.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PIECES

OF JEWELLERY TO WORK ON?
I love to design necklaces. You can play more
with enamels and the most unusual and fragile
materials. I like chokers very much because of
their rigidity and the fact that they are attached
to the neck in a way that gives an immediate
regality to your allure.
IS THERE A NECKLACE YOU ARE
PARTICULARLY PLEASED WITH MORE
THAN OTHERS AND WHY?
The resin heart chokers from my collection
Love is in the Hair, which are leather chokers
to which you can attach resin hearts that you
can personalise, putting souvenirs inside for
example hair. Through those, I can carry a
little part of the people I love with me its
a different way to have them close to me even
when its not possible. The two hearts I am
extremely bound to are one containing my
daughters first curl of hair (The First Cut) and
one holding one of my closest friends hair (The
Friendship).
WHAT INSPIRED THIS PARTICULAR
DESIGN?
These necklaces combine two particular
inspirations: one of my favourite artists Frida
Kahlo, specifically her Self-Portrait with Cropped
Hair (1940), and a modern reinterpretation of

77

Image of the Marchesa Casati Ryersson & Yaccarino/The Casati Archives, www.marchesacasati.com

INTERVIEW

the concept of Victorian jewels and the periods

use of mourning jewellery.
IS THERE SOMETHING ONE NEEDS
TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN DESIGNING
NECKLACES?
I try not to exaggerate the weight of the jewels.
WHAT IS INSPIRING YOUR WORK AT
THE MOMENT?
There might be a recurring inspiration or
something very specific to now but nature
is my greatest source of inspiration. Its a
constant evolution and a constant discovery.
WHAT WAS THE FIRST PIECE OF
JEWELLERY YOU EVER MADE?
My first creation was a necklace with skulls. I
got the inspiration during a trip to Cuba where
I found some coloured Santera (a religion in
which African Yoruba deities are identified
with Roman Catholic saints) necklaces made
of seeds at a market. I fell in love with their
colours and their lightness. With my first
necklace I wanted to recreate that effect by
putting together a lot of small handmade skulls
in bone, silver, golden silver and onyx, one after
the other, in order to make the alternation of
the colours stand out from a certain distance.
I find input for my jewels all around me,
sometimes in the simplest things and in
cultural traditions different from mine.

WHEN DID YOU REALISE YOUR

INTEREST IN MAKING JEWELLERY?
When I felt the need to make jewellery for
myself.

78

WHAT KIND OF WOMEN WEAR

YOUR JEWELLERY?
Women with strong personalities, a great
sense of irony and a greater sense of humour.
Women who give importance to the accessory
and dont fear being unconventional, who are
not afraid to be noticed.

CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
Marchesa Luisa Casati
is one of Delettrezs
icons; Metalphysic
necklace in gold with
pearls; First Cut resin
choker from the Love is
in the Hair collection

YOUVE MENTIONED THAT FASHION

ICON MARCHESA LUISA CASATI IS
SOMEONE YOU ADMIRE.
Very much. Her strong character showed
in her personal style: she was so eclectic, so
different. She explained herself best with
her most famous quote, I want to be a living
work of art.

ARE THERE ANY JEWELLERY

DESIGNERS YOU ADMIRE?
I admire everything that is innovative. I like
smart jewels. I look up to people who dedicate
time and research to their creations. For
example, people who forge an association
between classic jewellery and new materials
and technologies.

WHAT IS THE MOST ENJOYABLE

ASPECT OF YOUR JOB? ANY
FAVOURITE MATERIALS?
The length of time it takes to create a piece
the jewellerys journey from the idea to
the finishing and the result is long and
cannot be made shorter. In a world where
everything is so hectic,its a big exercise in
keeping calm. This long period of time allows
you the freedom to make some changes
during the finishing process: its a continuous
metamorphosis. At the moment my favourite
material is marble. Its cold, rigid and very
pure; I like the white one from Carrara (in
Tuscany, Italy) that Ive used in my latest
collection Metalphysic, because it gives a
sense of lightness.
DO YOU COLLECT ANYTHING?
I collect a lot of things skulls, insects, vinyl
records, old anatomy books, dresses from
Roman haute couture, antique miniature
mirrors. Im fascinated by the way insects
move; they seem like little robots. Looking
at their mechanical movements mesmerises
me; I can spend a lot of time watching them. I
collect spiders, butterflies, beetles and all the
strange things that I find in taxidermist shops
or in markets around the world. I display
them in my office, boutique and home. I love
them!

I like chokers very

much because they
are attached to the
neck in a way
that gives an
immediate regality
to your allure

REVIEW
BIENNALE DES ANTIQUAIRES

Palace
by Y-Jean Mun Del Salle

Dreams
of

The Biennale des Antiquaires proved to be the perfect

staging ground for fabulous haute joaillerie

The year is 1956. In Paris, Pierre

Vandermeersch, President of the National
Union of Antiques Dealers, together with
several young traders, had come to the
conclusion that casual visits to antiques
shops dispersed throughout the city no
longer enticed collectors and connoisseurs,
and that what was needed was an infusion of
extravagance and glamour through a single
grand event in the form of the Antiques Fair
of France, which would assemble a diverse
group of antiquarians in a majestic display of
strength and unity.
Initially based at the Palais des Expositions
and placed together with household
appliances, the fair was soon searching for a
more prestigious venue worthy of the objects
on show. Subsequently, in 1962, Andr
Malraux, the then French minister of culture,
offered the Grand Palais originally built
for the Universal Exhibition (world fair) of
1900 to the antiquarians and decorators
to showcase their wares, which proved to be
a magical gateway to freedom and fantasy.
Amid the pavilions, gardens, flower shows
and opulent objects of ancient art, the beau
monde socialised at debutante balls and gala
evenings. Vandermeersch described their
goal in the preface of the shows catalogue:
An international exhibition where the

80

French could prove their worth, invite their

neighbours, and lend an additional jewel to
the prestige of Paris.
In 1964, an elite group of French fine
jewellers were invited to inject sparkle to
the event. Having already turned Paris into
a jewellery hub, they were recognised for
sharing the same ideals as their antiquarian
counterparts through their relentless pursuit
of perfection in creativity and craftsmanship,
although engaged in different spheres of
activity. Demands placed by their clients
were just as challenging, for both artists and
artisans must imbue their creations with soul

CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP
Bouquet dAiles
brooch set with
emeralds, colored
sapphires, ne stones
and diamonds,
BOUCHERON;
Guipure Framboise
Rebrode earrings in
18k ping gold with
pink tourmalines,
re opals, amethysts
and purple spinels,
DIOR; Dear Dior
Dentelle Tourmalinee
Rebrode ring in yelellow gold, diamonds,
ds,
fancy yellow diamonds, chrysoberyls,
yls,
emeralds, demantoid
oid
garnets, haynes, re
opals, peridots andd
Paraba tourmalines;
es;
the Grand Palais inn
Paris was originallyy
built as an exhibition
on
space and museum
m
in 1897; Comet Toi
Moi ring with pink
and blue diamonds,
s,
CHANEL; Cancerr
clip with pearl,
diamonds and onyx,
yx,
VAN CLEEF &
ARPELS

and pay tribute to tradition without being

restricted by it. And in this way, every two
years, the best antique dealers converged to
form a temporary museum for the pleasure
of the worlds greatest collectors. The fair
thereafter moved to different locations owing
to renovation work and other incidents at the
Grand Palais, before returning to the grande
dames glass dome in 2006.
Fast-forward to 2012 and the 26th edition
of what is now called the Biennale des
Antiquaires was in full swing from 14 to 23
September. The event has become a notto-be-missed date in the world art market
calendar, and this year antiquities and artistic
treasures that attest to mankinds origins
were on display, spanning diverse fields from
archaeology and Asian art to 18th-century
furniture and modern paintings. Over 100
world-renowned art and antique dealers and
10 contemporary fine jewellers Boucheron,
Bulgari, Cartier, Chanel, Chaumet, Dior, Harry
Winston, Piaget, Van Cleef & Arpels and
Wallace Chan presented more than 10,000
rare and beautiful objects worth over USD50
billion, some never seen in public before.
At the heart of the Grand Palais, visitors
were greeted by scenography designed by
Karl Lagerfeld himself. He floated a hot-air
balloon above magnificent structures with
open windows reminiscent of Rue de Riviolis
covered shopping arcades; an evocation of
the Champs-lyses and the capitals greatest
monuments.
In addition to Bulgari and Wallace Chan
making their first-ever Biennale appearance
at the 2012 edition, visitors saw the return of
Chaumet and Boucheron after almost 20 and
eight years of absence, respectively. Celebrities
including Sophie Marceau for Chaumet,
Salma Hayek-Pinault for Boucheron and
Lou Doillon and Charlotte Casiraghi for
Chanel attending the Biennales charity
gala dinner on 12 September enjoyed a sneak
preview of the works of art before the show
opened to the public.

Looking at the Stars

For its fourth participation at the Biennale,

Chanel presented more than 100 creations
at its booth designed by American architect,
Peter Marino, which took visitors back in
time by faithfully recreating Gabrielle (Coco)
Chanels Rue du Fauboug Saint-Honor
apartment when she presented her fine
jewellery collection in 1932. The original

81

REVIEW
IEW

massive Coromandel folding

olding screens sshe
he
once owned were specially
ially flown in to
o adorn
the exhibition space. Chanel
hanel highlighted
highlightted
its 80-piece 1932 anniversary
ersary collection, a
contemporary version off Bij
Bijoux de
d Diamants,
Dii
t
the first and only high jewellery collection
created 80 years ago by Gabrielle Chanel. The
label gave an eloquent lesson on the maturity
of its savoir-faire since the creation of its
jewellery department in 1993, which is in
the process of opening an in-house jewellery
workshop at Place Vendme. For the very
first time, Chanel proposed a headpiece jewel
sparkling with diamond stars and softened
with fine baguette-diamond chains that flow
over the hair. Another first was its extensive
use of coloured diamonds 15 new pieces
were produced in a magical assemblage of
white, yellow, pink, blue and green diamonds.
The Comte Toi et Moi ring in white gold
set with a cushion-cut blue diamond and
radiant-cut pink diamond, together with
triangle-cut and brilliant-cut white diamonds,
is valued at 2.2 million.
Since 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels has
combined technical innovation and creativity
with multiple inspirations, as in the image of
its Alhambra sautoir, Zip necklace or Fairy
clip, all icons of the house. At the Biennale,
it gambled on the theme of luck through
its Palais de la Chance collection filled with
auspicious symbols from ladybirds and
four-leaf clovers to unicorns and the Chinese
panchang woven knot and struck gold
with its Zodiac Set representing the 12 star
signs of Western astrology.
CEO Stanislas de Quercize says:
Everything starts with a sentence from
Jacques Arpels, a member of the founding
family, who said, To be lucky, you have to
believe in luck. If youre positive, then luck
will meet you. We thought it was a nice story
to tell.

Fashion Forward

Then there were the couture influences. For

Diors third participation at the Biennale,
Victoire de Castellane drew inspiration from
the couture jewels of Christian Dior in the
1950s. De Castellane has reinvented those
rhinestone and bead accessories, which have
been replaced with precious stones, while

82

keeping the
dream initiated by
the couturier intact.
Over 24 months, she
designed 20 one-of-akind and 10 reproducible
pieces in a variety of volumes
and colours for the Dear Dior
collection, in addition to some 100 other Dior
Joaillerie pieces.
Dear Dior is infused with very Parisian
couture codes that represent the ultimate
homage to the couturier and brand founder.
The back of each jewel recaptures hidden
details in the same manner as the lining on
the couture dresses created by Monsieur Dior,
with the gold and jewel handcraftsmanship
guaranteed by the finest Parisian artisans.
Generally speaking, the main theme of this
collection is colour, couture and femininity.
For the colour, I wanted unusual stones in very
varied combinations, says de Castellane.
For its second outing at the Biennale des
Antiquaires, Piaget created a 59-piece jewellery
collection based on feminine seduction,
showcasing tassels, ribbons, lace and corsets
using gold, diamonds, spinels and rubellites.
The Couture Prcieuse Exceptional Cuff Watch
Radiant Laces Inspiration in white gold, brilliant-

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT

Ruban Mademoiselle pink
ring, CHANEL; Couture
Prcieuse necklace in 18k
white gold set with 18
rubellite drops, PIAGET;
Dear Dior Bouquet dOpales
brooch and ring, DIOR;
Bracelet in platinum, one
8.02k opal, chrysoberyl, opal
beads, emerald beads and
diamonds, CARTIER; Dear
Dior Rsille Bouquet dOpales
earrings; 12 Vendome tiara
in platinum, set with white
opal and pigeon-blood ruby,
CHAUMET; Chameleon
bracelet with tourmalines,
sapphires and diamonds,
BOUCHERON; handcrafting techniques at Piagets
atelier

sapphires, rubies, diamonds, purple jade,

spinels and white, blue or black opals; hair
clips, pins and sculpted combs become
precious head ornaments.

Opal Fever

cut diamonds and baguette-cut diamonds

resembles a laced-up corset, while the Couture
Prcieuse Necklace Diamond Embroidery
Inspiration, embroidered with gold filaments
and diamonds on an entirely open-worked,
articulated structure, dresses the skin with
diamond guipure lace.

Momentous Comebacks

Boucheron began a vibrant new chapter with

LArtisan du Rve, its first Biennale collection
since 2004. Divided into nine chapters, the
collection unveiled nine universes, or nine
doors, which open onto the heart of the
154-year-old houses heritage.
After almost two decades of absence,
Chaumet presented a 40-piece 12 Vendme
collection referencing the address of the
houses private mansion and its current 12th
workshop director. Numbered from one to
12, the parures, the quintessence of Parisian
elegance yet with a hint of irreverence,
embody the style and creativity of
12 Place Vendme in delicate
combinations of
emeralds,

The opal made a strong revival. Diors Dentelle

Opale dOrient bracelet, worth close to one
million euros, features a majestic Australian
black opal. De Castellane notes: The opal.
Because of its fires, it seems to be alive. Like
Monets Water Lilies, it possesses every
colour as if a genie was living inside it. The
Dear Dior collection is infused with oriental
and exotic inspirations evident through the
use of green Paraba tourmalines, fire opals,
Ethiopian Welo opals, Lightning Ridge black
opals, emeralds, white, fancy yellow and fancy
green diamonds, pink and orange spinels,
rubellites, sapphires, apatites, sphenes and
spessartite garnets.
Cartier outdid itself this year, further
reinforcing its moniker of king of jewellers.
Among the Biennales oldest exhibitors, it
has presented its wares there since 1964.
Having the fairs largest booth, it showcased
its Dpaysement collection comprising 148
creations that included 12 precious objects
and five high-jewellery watches. Each piece
required up to two years of work, calling on
Cartiers technical and creative expertise,
including the artistic crafts of engraving
and stone carving. It composed its theme
around four landscapes: urban, luxurious,
sun-drenched and boreal. Visitors witnessed
radical designs, optical illusions in black
and white, mobile spirals and contemporary
architectural beauty, as well as a threedimensional menagerie including a snake that
coils voluptuously around a jaw-dropping
8.02-carat opal on a bracelet in platinum,
chrysoberyl, diamonds, emeralds and opal
and emerald beads.
Chaumets Aigrette tiara, crowned with the
blaze of an incredible white opal, may be
worn as a delicate bandeau topped with
feathers or as a brooch or necklace.
The Josephine tiara represents
several hundred hours of
workshop expertise:
one central pear-cut
diamond of five carats

83

REVIEW

Biennale Standouts

An international
exhibition where the
French could prove
their worth, invite
their neighbours, and
lend an additional
jewel to the prestige
of Paris
D FL quality, 295 brilliant-cut diamonds and
100 baguette-cut diamonds, cut one by one to
fit perfectly with the tiaras curves. Chaumet
President, Thierry Fritsch, comments: This
edition of the Biennale is exceptional by the
quality of the items gathered. During crisis
periods, investing in rare pieces of art or
jewellery is the best way of protecting your
heritage.

One with Nature

Iconoclast Hong Kong-based jeweller, Wallace

Chan, whose works sometimes recall that
of the secretive JAR, became the first Asian
jeweller invited to showcase his designs
alongside Place Vendmes internationally
established brands. His 50 explosive pieces
held nothing back. Giant butterflies in jadeite,
diamonds, pink and blue sapphires, rubies,
lapis lazuli and tanzanites, and scorpions in
rubies, demantoid garnets, fancy diamonds,
yellow sapphire and alexandrite cats-eye
rubbed shoulders with a cicada made of
the most refined imperial jadeite, whose
overwhelmingly green shade embodies an
overflowing sense of natures vitality. Chans
mystical, sculptural works merging artistry
with high technology are deeply rooted in
Chinese history and present strong links
to nature. As a Chinese jewellery master, I
hope to bring to the Biennale the essence
of oriental philosophy and Chinese culture.
My jewellery pieces are created to open up a
profound dialogue between cultures, he says.
Boucheron pursued its animal and nature
theme, playing with snake symbols (a house

84

As the rst jeweller to use and work on crystal in

haute joaillerie, Boucherons Nature de
Cristal diamond and rock crystal series
stands out for its light and transparency. A
three-dimensional scene was created inside
the dome by carving out a cavity from the
crystal cabochon. Diamonds interweave
under, over and inside the crystal like the
branches of a frost-covered tree resembling a snow globe sheltering a secret Garden
of Eden while a cushion-cut diamond appears weightlessly suspended on top of the rock
crystal dome.

classic) and chameleon, swan and horse

motifs.Choisne says: All the pieces this year
had the same starting point: Boucherons rich
archives. The idea was to give them life again
through a contemporary reinterpretation.
Boucherons serpent from 1878, for instance,
shed its skin to become the Serpent Opalescent
necklace. The Bouquet dAiles necklace in
emeralds, coloured sapphires, diamonds and
fine stones reinvents the emblematic Point
dInterrogation necklace created in 1883;
taking inspiration from Boucherons exquisite
bestiary, it is voluminous yet light with wings
inspired by dragonflies and butterflies
and peacock feathers. Colourful gems are
assembled via the no-casting and trembleur
(tremble) techniques, the latter featuring
mobile elements that animate the wings,
making them flutter with the movements of
the wearer like magic, as if real butterflies
were about to take flight.
Inspired by the beauty of nature since
1932, Harry Winstons latest collection
featuring 19 newly created designs pays
tribute to one of the worlds most precious
elements: water. Focusing on water in all
its incarnations and taking into account its
variations in colour, movement and form
when interacting with the surrounding
environment, fancy shaped and pav
diamonds evoke the fluidity of tranquil rivers
and streams. Delicate strands of brilliant- and
pear-cut diamonds recall the cascades of
majestic waterfalls or enchanting ocean mists
and baguette-cut diamonds become glacial
ice crystals. But it isnt just diamonds; water
in its full kaleidoscope of shades of blues
and greens is represented by deep sapphires,
emeralds, icy aquamarines, bright turquoise
and vivid Paraiba.

Born under the Leo star sign, the very superstitious

Mademoiselle Chanel loved to reproduce the lions
majestic gure on the buttons of her garments,
and possessed numerous art objects in its image. A
lion sculpted in golden rutile quartz, highlighting a
diamond comet and an exceptional 32.9ct cushioncut yellow diamond, appears on a sautoir, and may
also be found as a brooch in white, yellow and orange
diamonds.

Cartiers celebrated
icon, the panther,
stole the show with
a magnicent cuff
bracelet with a
panther head in platinum, sculpted fossilised bone, white and
yellow diamonds and onyx, and a pendant depicting a
sleeping panther in platinum, sculpted petried wood,
diamonds, emeralds, onyx and cultured pearls.

Harry Winstons
stunning River
Diamond necklace
in platinum with
464 pear-shaped,
marquise and round
brilliant diamonds
brings the wearer
to the very heart of
nature with its uidity. Each individual
stone is carefully
set by hand, making
each nal composition unique.

@SDKHDQYTOOHMFDQ BG

Horn
Warning device
or watch strap
attachment?
Discover the world
of Fine Watchmaking
at www.hautehorlogerie.org

Horn | That part of a watch case to which the strap is attached. Horns come in various
shapes and are attached to the case middle.

THE FOUNDATIONS PARTNERS | A. LANGE & SHNE | AUDEMARS PIGUET | BAUME & MERCIER | BOVET | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD
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REVIEW

rand
Geometry
BULGARI
by Sandy Tan

An iconic jeweller dbuts at the

Biennale des Antiquaires

CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT
Serpenti bracelet with
pear-shaped and pav
diamonds in pink gold;
Serpenti necklace in pink
gold with two pearshaped diamonds and
72.49ct diamond pav;
Bracelet in pink gold with
amethysts, tourmalines,
peridots and brilliant diamonds; Ring in pink gold
set with fancy-shaped
turquoise elements with
4.76ct cushion pink sapphire, blue sapphires and
diamonds
OPPOSITE PAGE
Elizabeth Taylors vintage
emerald sautoir and
brooch

86

Each jewel is always

of its time

Bulgaris history reaches back more than 125 years, yet to this day
its jewellery inspires lovers and is treasured by the worlds most
prominent families. Participating for the first time at the 26th
Biennale des Antiquaires held at the Grand Palais in Paris from 14
to 23 September, Bulgari showcased more than 100 unique pieces of
jewellery created especially for the event.
While each piece on display had its own design and history, all
demonstrated an unmistakable reference to Bulgaris signature style
the use of coloured gemstones, ingenious geometry and volume
created in linear and rounded shapes. Such motifs hark back to
Greek and Roman roots, and balance modernity with classic motifs.
Its 130-metre booth also featured classical Italian outlines, with
arched openings and marble-finished walls and flooring.
Taking centre stage at the fair was the emblematic serpent, a
symbol of Bulgaris Mediterranean roots. The company first launched
the Serpenti collection in the 1940s with coiling bracelet-watches
now a recognisably Bulgari aesthetic decorated with diamonds.
Contemporary interpretations shown at the Biennale included a
new five-strand, white-gold bracelet with more than 200 cabochoncut rubies. The main conversation piece was the emerald Serpenti
necklace, which has 100 emerald beads measuring up to 20mm in
diameter each and weighing a total of 1.179 carats. The emeralds
alternate with turquoise roundels, the pattern occasionally broken
by a pear-shaped diamond. The necklace took two years to create. A
one-off charismatic white-gold Serpenti necklace also demonstrates
Bulgaris intricate craftsmanship, inspired by Italian Renaissance
sculpting techniques. The necklace comprises 130 white-gold

components and 3,455 diamonds. Clasps of varying sizes are

connected harmoniously in a Serpenti pattern.
Bulgari also presented pieces that once belonged to actress
Elizabeth Taylor, an avid connoisseur and collector of its jewellery since
the 1960s. The romance between Taylor and Richard Burton sparkled
off-screen with gifts of Bulgari creations. On show was Burtons gift to
Taylor on her 40th birthday the memorable sautoir necklace, which
features a 50-carat sugar-loaf cabochon sapphire, complemented by
bullet-cut diamond accents and a chain of pav-set diamonds with
sapphire links that Bulgari acquired at a Christies auction in 2011.
Bulgari started buying back its vintage pieces in the 1990s when
an appreciation of decorative art re-emerged. Curator Amanda Triossi,
a former Sothebys auctioneer, says two schools of thought govern
the selection of Bulgaris vintage pieces. The first is timeliness the
emerald brooch, for instance, signified Taylors relationship with
Burton when she was at the height of her beauty. The second is
design the sautoir with its clean lines and rounded shapes is iconic,
says Triossi. Indeed, Bulgaris new necklaces reflect the geometric
shape of the sautoir.
Another obvious inspiration for Bulgaris Biennale collection was
the flower. New one-off designs included precious rings adorned
with asymmetric petals made of coral, mother of pearl and turquoise,
alternating with sapphire petals framed by pav diamonds.
Triossi says that Bulgari has always stayed true to its signature, as
the nostalgic collections have shown. And what is contemporary today
will become vintage tomorrow. Each jewel is always of its time, says
Triossi. And every creation, a result of it.

87

KNOWLEDGE

COLOURED DIAMONDS
by Charlene Co

Rock

Solid sset
Coloured diamonds may give traditional
assets a run for their money

88

A
OPPOSITE PAGE,
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP RIGHT
Fancy yellow diamond
earrings; Snowake ring
in platinum mounted with
the Ember diamond, the
largest reddish orange
diamond rated by GIA
in 2010; Buttery brooch
with pink and yellow
diamonds; Gold ring with
blue and pink diamonds;
ring in platinum and 18k
gold with over 10ct fancy
intense yellow diamond
THIS PAGE
After World War II, Scarselli was the only jeweller
in Italy who had license to
sell diamonds to American
troops; Platinum and 18k
gold with 5ct fancy pink
diamond ring; 2ct fancy
intense blue diamond
ring and 2ct fancy intense
green diamond ring

t one of my first
tenders for pink
diamonds, I pointed
to a stone not much
bigger than a pea
and asked how
much that could
possibly fetch. The
diamantaire pointed to a flat in a well-to-do
residential area visible from where we sat
and said, Just about the price of that one.
I finally understood why the security at the
tender could rival that of a head of state or
pop diva.
There is no question that white diamonds
are held in high regard, but it is their naturally
coloured counterparts that are fetching
dizzying amounts at auction. The key to
this is rarity. Only 20 per cent of diamonds
mined worldwide find their way into the
jewellery trade. Of these 20 per cent, a mere
one per cent is graded as fancy coloured.
And within that one per cent, the stones
are classified further based on the level of
saturation and distribution of colour, with
the value increasing exponentially with the
intensity and evenness throughout the stone.
Its no surprise that such top end coloured
diamonds increasingly attract serious
collectors and connoisseurs.

coloured diamonds dont usually come in

sizeable roughs to begin with. Determining
which shape will best highlight the intensity
of the colour lies very much in the skilful
hands of a gem cutter. Intriguingly, one needs
to subdue brilliance to contain the colour of
the stone, whereas brilliance is an absolute
must when it comes to white diamonds.

A Family Affair

Few know coloured diamonds better than

Bruno Scarselli, vice president of Scarselli
Diamonds, a company run by generations of
diamond cutters. The Scarsellis inventory
of coloured diamonds is legendary. The
companys very own Olympia Collection,
dedicated to Brunos grandfather who started
the familys love affair with diamonds, stars
five of its most stunning colour diamonds
and is currently displayed at the American
Museum of Natural History in New York.
According to Bruno, who belongs to
the third generation of Scarsellis, sourcing

Colours and Cuts

Fancy coloured diamonds come in yellow,

pink and blue, or the most rare of them all
red. Ironically, their much-desired colour
is due to impurities. Only pink diamonds
are somewhat of an enigma since their
colour is not due to any foreign
element.
Getting your hands on gem-quality
coloured diamonds, however, is just
half the battle; cutting and polishing
them is quite another, especially since

89

KNOWLEDGE

coloured diamonds has always been difficult.

Challenging even when there wasnt a market
to speak of, and of course much more so now
that interest in this niche trade has grown. In
fact, the disparity between supply and demand
has never been greater. Coloured diamonds
are fetching record prices at high-profile
auctions, and China and Indias growing
luxury markets are starting to pay attention.

Investing in Colour

Rarity and quality have always been hallmarks

of sound investments. In the past, Bruno says,
few ever looked to buying diamonds as an
investment, something that is no longer true
today. Given the instability in world markets,
and with interest rates so low, theres almost
no reason to keep your money in the bank, he
says. The rarity of a colour diamond, on the
other hand, makes it a real asset.
But heres the rub; coloured diamonds,
while a firm investment, are tricky. In terms of
valuation, coloured diamonds are unlike white
diamonds, which have a very straightforward
assessment: the 4Cs. Expertise is of paramount

importance in buying a coloured diamond.

First and foremost, says Bruno, the individual
who evaluates the stone should have a
relationship with a first class gemmological
institute. At Scarselli, each one of us knows
the rough how to cut it and what to do
with the colour. Unknown to many, it takes a
special type of cutting and expertise to derive
the very best out of a coloured diamond. We
also have a relationship with the GIA; we even
conduct lectures with their approval. Were
not partners but the GIA aims to educate
people about diamonds, in the same way that
I want to educate my clients about coloured
diamonds, he says.
These days, a good-sized fancy coloured
diamond can be just as good as any traditional
hard asset, like a rare art piece or real estate.
Who could have known that there would
come a day when you can put a lifetimes
worth of savings in your pocket?

In the past, few ever looked

to buying diamonds as an
investment, something that
is no longer true today
90

ABOVE
Bruno Scarselli represents
the third generation of
Scarselli Diamonds
BELOW
While diamond colours are
usually the result of impurities in the stone, a pink
diamond is unique in that its
colour is not caused by foreign elements; Platinum ring
with at least 12cts fancy blue
diamond and fancy light
purplish-pink diamonds

BASELWORLD.COM

THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW

APRIL 25 MAY 2, 2013

KNOWLEDGE

CONCH PEARLS

Precious
by Fiona Low

Imposter
A rare, natural beauty conquers
the hearts of pearl lovers

92

KNOWLEDGE
OPPOSITE PAGE,
FROM TOP
Atollo Conch Precious ring with pearl,
coloured sapphires
and diamonds in gold,
ALESSIO BOSCHI;
Reection Dragony conch pearl
brooch with fancy-cut
diamonds and rubies
in 18k white, yellow
and rose gold, CINDY
CHAO
THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
Conch pearl necklace
with diamonds in white
gold, MIKIMOTO;
One-of-a-kind conch
shell brooch with
diamonds and pearl in
gold, KIM.T; Paradis
bird of paradise earrings with conch
pearls and brilliant-cut
diamonds in platinum
and rose gold, SARAH
HO; Floral brooch
with conch pearls and
diamonds in white gold,
MIKIMOTO

In spite of their name, conch pearls are not

actually pearls at all. They do not contain
nacre (the coating that gives pearls their
distinctive iridescent shine) and are, in
fact, calcareous concentrations in the sea
creature the equivalent of kidney stones
in humans. Nonetheless, despite these
humble origins, they are extremely valuable
owing to their unique aesthetic appeal and
rarity.
Conch pearls develop in the queen
conch mollusc, a type of large sea snail
that lives primarily in the Caribbean. It is
estimated that only one in 10,000 conches
will produce a pearl and less than 10
per cent of those will be considered gem
quality. Usually small in size, conch pearls
occur in several colours including pink,
yellow, brown and white. Those that are
deep rose, pink or salmon are most sought
after. The vibrancy of the ripple effect on
its surface, which is known as the pearls
flame, also determines its value. Most conch
pearls come in oval or baroque shapes,
while round ones are uncommon.

Conches are not harvested for their

pearls, and are commonly caught by
fishermen for food. Pearls are by-products
of the harvest, which makes them quite
rare. There is currently no widely practised
method for cultivating conch pearls,
although promising research is ongoing. In
2009, scientists in Florida announced the
first successful cultivation of conch pearls
in a laboratory setting.
Its preciousness is perhaps further
enhanced by the conch pearls ephemeral
nature over time, its colour fades
dramatically. Known as night gems, conch
pearls are best saved for after dark as
sunlight contributes to colour fading.

93

FESTIVE COLLECTIONS
by Katrina Balmaceda

FESTIVE

Fire, ice and everything nice

Its the time again for mathematical glamorous functions, for looking extra beautiful, for
taking out those special pieces of jewellery you reserve for just such occasions. And as homes
and high streets are bedecked with trinkets, theres no excuse for anyone to stay unadorned.
Some like to match the seasons colours, be they the frosty glow of Christmas, the
fireworks of year end or the cheer of Chinese New Year. Others like to stay classic such
celebrations, after all, are traditional, formed by beliefs and rituals passed on from one
generation to another. We suggest some party pieces to go with various festive events.

94

ON MODEL

La Rose de la Reine 
pearl necklace and
Petite Fleur watch, ring
and earrings in white
gold with diamonds, all
from BREGUET

THIS PAGE
1. Sapphire and diamond
brooch in white gold, LING
& IRVING; 2. Cypress 13.8ct
necklace and 4.7ct earrings,
HOF; 3 Earrings in rose
gold with pink and white
diamonds, MONDIAL; 4
Ceylon sapphire oral ring
with diamonds in white
gold, LING & IRVING; 5
Winter ring with black and
white diamonds and topaz,
PALMIERO

Frost

Show up at Christmas dinner with the appropriate

EGGIWWSVMIWJIEXYVMRKKYVIWJVSQWRS[EOIWERH
snowmen to cypress twigs and stars. White diamonds,
luminous pearls and light-coloured gems such as
PMKLXFPYIXSYVQEPMRILIPTVIIGXXLI[MRXIVGLMPPERH
LMKLPMKLXXLIWMKRMGERGISJ(IGIQFIVEVSYRHXLI
[SVPH+IXTPE]JYP[MXLVMRKWWLETIHPMOIKMJXFS\IW
complete with diamond-studded ribbons.
95

1. Lueur d'un Soir collier in

white gold with black and
white diamonds, CHANEL;
2. Ring in white gold with
brilliant-cut diamonds, one
pear-shaped diamond and
rock crystals, CARTIER;
3. Perle de Rosee collier in
18k white gold, diamonds,
black and grey spinels, moon
stones and pearls, CHANEL;
4. Diamond necklace,
MONDIAL 5 Diamond ring,
MONDIAL;
1

The end of one year and the

FIKMRRMRKSJXLIRI\XEVISJXIRQIX
[MXLFSXLVIIGXMSRERHVIWSPZI-X
is a time when one sees things in
FPEGOERH[LMXIXVYXLJYPP]EWWIWWMRK
XLITEWXERHGSRHIRXP]TPERRMRK
JSVXLIJYXYVI)\TVIWWXLMWGPEVMX]
of mind with white gold, white
HMEQSRHW[LMXITIEVPWFPEGOIRIH
HMEQSRHWERHFPEGOSR]\%HHE
FPEGOWXVETTIH[EXGL[MXLEJEGI
JYPP]TEZIH[MXL[LMXIHMEQSRHWXS
QEVOXLMWTEWWMRKSJXMQI

96

Finesse

6. Elixir ring in 18k blackened

gold with rose-cut diamond
and colourless diamonds,
DIAH D; 7. Flex'it earrings
in 18k white gold and black
diamonds, FOPE; 8. Arceau
Full Pave watch in 18k white
gold with 639 pav diamonds,
HERMS; 9. Flex'it bracelets
in 18k white gold and black
and white diamonds, FOPE;
10.Elixir cuff in 18k blackened
gold with black diamonds,
DIAH D

10

9
8

97

1. Karya Anggun earrings

in 22k gold earrings,
POH KONG; 2. Cordoba
ring in yellow gold,
CARRERA Y CARRERA;
3. Champagne and brown
diamond ring with gold,
DE GRISOGONO; 4.
Gemstone ring, VERDI
GIOELLI; 5. Unique
necklace, ROBERTO
COIN; 6. Diamond and rose
gold ring, ANNAMARIA
CAMMILI; 7. Le Grand
Frisson ring in gold,
CHAUMET; 8. Oro Rosa
earrings, VERDI GIOELLI;
9. Karya Anggun earrings in
22k gold, POH KONG
98

Fire

When the clan gathers for Chinese New Year,

attract prosperity and good fortune with
statement pieces in yellow gold and red and
SVERKIKIQW8V]EGGIWWSVMIW[MXLWGVSPPPMOI
TEXXIVRWSVRHEYRMUYITMIGIXLEXGSQFMRIW
both red and gold in an elegant design.

99

DESIGN

Jakartas

Treasures

Synergy iguana
necklace in silver with
gold, amethysts, white
fossilized stone and
various gems from the
Giana Mayra collection,
UTTY JEWELLERY

100

JAKARTA
by Lulu Fuad

Indonesias bustling capital is home

to some of the most vibrant and
unforgettable jewellery designs
ith 17,500 islands spanning more than
3,200 miles, Indonesia is the worlds largest
archipelago, enriched by diverse cultures
and natural resources like gold and silver. It
is also a source of gems. Diamonds can be
found in Kalimantan, South Sea Pearls in
Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa and West Papua Province, and black opals in West Java.
Indonesians have the art of jewellery making in their blood, strongly influenced by
ethnic traditions, religion and symbolic values.
As the countrys capital, Jakarta benefits from the riches and skill that the land has
to offer. It has become a hub of fine Indonesian jewellery, and is home to many design
houses originating from other parts of Asia, the Americas and Europe. Giant malls
scattered over the metropolis house some of the nations most exclusive jewellers,
with Plaza Indonesia one of the main stops frequented by the countrys tycoons and
celebrities. For the jewellery aficionado, Grand Indonesia, Plaza Senayan, Pacific
Place, Senayan City and Pondok Indah Mall are worth exploring most.
Jakarta offers jewellery at competitive prices, and styles that blend European and
Asian tastes. The city has established a reputation for haute couture jewellery, with
handcrafted silver and gold pieces made locally. Designers like John Hardy (originally
from Bali), Reny Feby, Utty Wakkary and Franky Wongkar are based here, just a few of
the names one should remember when looking for one-of-a-kind pieces that are both
beautiful and fashion-forward.
Here are some of our favourites:

UTTY JEWELLERY
Utty Jewellery/Giana Mayra by Utty Wakkary
specialises in elaborate, whimsical pieces that
are mostly inspired by nature and created to
stand out. Designer Utty likes working with
materials that can be found locally. She has
released several collections using diamonds,
rubies, pearls, kunzite, amethyst, turquoise,
tourmaline and, most recently, black coral.
Jl. Gunawarman 57 Jakarta Selatan
Alun-Alun, Grand Indonesia
+62 81 58124165 / +62 81 6847204, by
appointment only

101

DESIGN

FRJ AND FRJ [79AU]

Jeffrey Jeff and Franky Wongkar are the two
creative minds behind Frj and frj [79Au].
Their pieces are bold fashion statements, and
they like playing around with materials. The
pair believe that the more important aspect
of jewellery design is the concept, not the
value. Their latest collection, Pencils, features
jewellery fashioned from gold and what looks
like many short pencil slabs. They also use
pieces of vibrantly colourful agate slabs set in
gold-plated silver to create striking necklaces
and bangles.
Jl. Zamrud Raya No.123,
Permata Hijau Blok. E
Jakarta-Selatan 12210
+62 81 18301310, by appointment only

Necklace with six

pieces of azure-dyed
agate slabs set in 18k
gold-plated silver
Pencils Twisted short
necklace handfabricated with 2B
graphite pencils set
in brass collets and
intricate brass chains

The city has established a reputation

for haute couture jewellery
102

DESIGN

RENY FEBY JEWELRY (RFJ)

RFJs founder, Reny Feby has always been
inspired by the diversity and beauty of
Indonesias heritage. She creates limitededition collections using pearls, diamonds,
rubies, emeralds and other precious stones.
Most of her pieces are grand and elegant,
worthy of the socialites that wear them. Her
works are favourites among Indonesias elite,
and she works with an international clientele
from Brunei, Malaysia, Japan, Saudi Arabia,
Dubai, Egypt, the US and all the way to Brazil.
Pendapha Pusthika
Jl. Tirtayasa VII No. 7 Kebayoran Baru
Jakarta Selatan 12160
+62 21 7247487

Le Papillon brooch with

natural rubies, emeralds
and diamonds intricately
crafted in white gold

Giant malls house some of

the nations most exclusive
jewellers, with Plaza Indonesia
one of the main stops
104

STYLE

106

Soleil earrings in white

gold, yellow diamonds
and diamonds; Camlia
Brod sautoir in white
gold, Akoya pearls and
diamonds; Perles Et Noeud bracelet in white gold,
pearls and diamonds;
Soleil ring in white gold,
yellow diamond centre
stone and diamonds, all
from CHANEL
Black viscose halterneck
dress, ETRO

Perfection
Bold jewels and timepiece essentials
for an opulent ensemble

PHOTOGRAPHY: MUN KONG / PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: ALFRED PANG

FASHION STYLIST: JUMIUS WONG & JACK WANG / FASHION ASSISTANT: CANDICE JUDITH
107

STYLE
Earrings in platinum
with blue sapphires and
round emeralds with
necklace in white gold
with round brilliant cut
diamonds, BULGARI;
Chiffon top with structured peplum bustier,
VALENTINO

108

Diorette rings in yellow

gold with diamond,
citrine, amethyst,
tsavorite, pink sapphire,
mandarin garnet,
tsavorite and lacquer;
Rose pre catelan ring,
yellow gold, diamonds,
and red coral; My Dior
ring in yellow gold with
diamonds; My Dior
ring in rose gold with
diamonds, all from
DIOR JOAILLERIE;
Saxonia Dual Time
watch in white gold,
A.LANGE & SHNE
Satin dress, DIOR

109

STYLE

110

Ms Protocol necklace in
18k white gold and Limelight cocktail ring in 18k
white gold and precious
stones, PIAGET; Grande
Reverso Calendar watch
in pink gold, JAEGERLECOULTRE; Gold sequined dress with leather
waistbelt, BURBERRY
LONDON

Charm, in most men and nearly

all women, is a decoration.
EM Forster

111

STYLE

Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071/G

watch in white gold with
dark blue alligator strap,
PATEK PHILIPPE;
Black dress with red
foliage brocade details,
MARC JACOBS

112

High Jewellery earrings in white gold set

with blue sapphires,
CHOPARD; Innity
Safari watch in white
gold with alligator strap,
FRANCK MULLER;
Dress, MAISON
MARTIN MARGIELA
for H&M

113

STYLE

Royal Oak Chronograph

Ref. 26128OR watch in
diamond-set pink gold
case with black crocodile strap, AUDEMARS
PIGUET; Leman Full
Paved Tourbillon Ref.
2926-5222-92S watch
in white gold set with
baguette-cut diamonds,
BLANCPAIN; Black
velvet halterneck dress,
BOTTEGA VENETA

114

Hairstylist: Sean Ang, using LOreal Professional Makeup Artist: Ginger Lynette, using Urban Decay Cosmetics Model: Puvana / Looque Models

Rhodolite Garnet whitegold Reine de Naples

earrings with round
diamonds and peridots;
Rhodolite Garnet
white-gold Reine de
Naples ring with round
diamonds and rhodolite
garnet; Reine de Naples
Ref. 8939BB/6D/864
DD0D watch in 18k
white gold, all from
BREGUET; Green silk
wrap dress, RAOUL

115

ATELIER GALAS

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116

ATELIER GALAS

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ATELIERGALAS

Bulgaris first watch exhibition, The Magnificence of Time,

opened in September with a grand cocktail at the IFC Mall in
Hong Kong. On show were the companys most complicated
timepieces, such as the Grande Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar
and the rare Giocatore Veneziano automaton pair; and
master watchmaker Pascal Legendre flew in to show how
some of the intricate timepieces were put together. Lelio
Gavazza, managing director for Greater China, and Guido
Terreni, managing director of Bulgari Horlogerie, officiated
at the event, and presented guest of honour, Cantopop
singer Andy Hui with the latest version of the brands
OCTO steel watch. Also in attendance were Leigh Tung,
Stephen King, Daphne Yao, Audry Ai, and Yolanda Choy.

Sparkling
120

Soires
Toasting unique collections, a
Hollywood-style gala, a boutique
opening and an auction for a cause

ATELIERGALAS

Mechanical Revelry
Bulgari highlights its watchmaking expertise with a
travelling exhibition
Bulgaris first watch exhibition, The Magnificence of Time,
opened in September with a grand cocktail at the IFC
Mall in Hong Kong. On show were the companys most
complicated timepieces, such as the Grande Sonnerie
Perpetual Calendar and the rare Giocatore Veneziano
automaton pair; and master watchmaker Pascal Legendre
flew in to show how some of the intricate timepieces were
put together. Lelio Gavazza, managing director for Greater
China, and Guido Terreni, managing director of Bulgari
Horlogerie, officiated at the event, and presented guest of
honour, Cantopop singer Andy Hui, with the latest version
of the brands OCTO steel watch. Also in attendance were
Leigh Tung, Stephen King, Daphne Yao, Audry Ai, and
Yolanda Choy.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
Sharon Cheung with Kam Kwok Leung; Priscilla Ku & son Andrew Chan;
Fiona Marin, Shirley Hiranand, Pascal Brandt, Leigh Tung, Anne Liu, &
Yolanda Choy; Valerie Liang, Vivien Liang & Anthony Zeng; Lelio Gavazza,
Andy Hui & Guido Terreni

122

ATELIERGALAS

A Night to Remember
Chopard pays tribute to legendary star Marilyn
Monroe with an evening of high jewellery and regalia
One-off timepieces and colourful jewellery with rubies,
emeralds, padparadscha sapphires, tanzanite and kunzite
were the highlight of the gala dinner commemorating
Marilyn Monroe, held by Chopard at the W Hotel on
Sentosa island, Singapore, on 19 September. The Red
Carpet 2012 and High Jewellery collections were presented
for the first time in Singapore, along with 25 photographs of
Ms Monroe shot by photographer Milton Greene. Chopards
co-president and artistic director, Caroline Scheufule, hosted
the event together with Singapore managing director, Patrick
Normand. The companys high jewellery expert, Carlo
Tommasini, was also in attendance. The guests were treated
to a fashion show, musical performances and a live deejay.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
Caroline Scheufele with Rany Moran; Shabnam Arashan; Nina Ng; Theresa
Halim and Diana Wijaya; a model wearing Chopard jewellery; Gerti Iwatake,
Dick Lee, Rasina Rubin, Elena Iwa

124

ATELIERGALAS

Silverscreen Affair
Jaeger-LeCoultre shows its support for the Chinese
film industry with a unique auction
On the opening night of the 2012 Shanghai International
Film Festival, Jaeger-LeCoultre hosted a public auction and
party in support of the Chinese film industry. The Hotel
Waterhouse was host to more than a thousand guests from
all over the world, including Zhao Wei, Aaron Eckhart,
Maria Grazia Cucinotta and French director Jean-Jacques
Annaud. Director Jia Zhangke and actress Zhao Tao
donated a camera to the auction; director Wang QuanAn
gave a viewfinder; and Miss World Zhang Zilin offered a
dress made of antique lace that she wore on the red carpet.
Jaeger-LeCoultre donated a special piece to the auction, too,
the Rendez-Vous Night & Day ladies watch, with a mother-ofpearl dial and set with 191 diamonds. All proceeds went into
a fund for the restoration of classic Chinese films.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
The Rendez-Vous Day & Night watch, actress Zhao Wei, celebrities
wearing Jaeger-LeCoultre watches; Jia Zhangke with Zhao Tao; director
Jean-Jacques Annaud

126

ATELIERGALAS

Relaxing Reception
Philip Stein celebrates its first Singapore boutique
with a sparty
Philip Steins first Singapore boutique opened to great
fanfare, featuring a fashion show, spa treatments and
cocktails for all the guests, who included celebrities like
Irene Ang, Bobby Tonelli, Jamie Teo, Daniel Boey and Pat
Law. The brands founder and president, Will Stein, hosted
the event together with members of the Norbreeze Group,
distributors of Philip Stein in Singapore.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT
Anders Peter on stage; Jamie Teo, Daniel Ong and Will Stein; Daniel Ong,
Jaime Teo, Bobby Tonelli, Beatrice Chia-Richmond, Daniel Boey, Will Stein,
Irene Ang, Anders Peter, Irene Ang and Daniel Boey; Dr Ann Tan with
Anders Peter

128

ATELIER HOROSCOPE
Zodiac Set Aquarius
clip with diamonds,
mystery-set sapphires,
lapis lazuli and
diamonds, VAN
CLEEF & ARPELS

A QUARTERLY FORECAST
by Olive Cuenca

Capricorn

(22 DECEMBER - 19 JANUARY)

The past few months have been hectic and

theres no guarantee that things will slow
down, especially during this festive season.
Before things get even crazier, find time to
check on your health and catch up on errands
youve been putting off. Diamond brings good
fortune.

Pisces

(19 FEBRUARY 20 MARCH)

A rosy year with plenty of accomplishments

is in store, but only if you arm yourself with
the right tools. Learn a new skill, further
your studies and go the extra mile to engage
in meaningful conversations with teams
outside of your office environment. Tanzanite,
with its bluish to purple shade, will make
people at work realise youre a truly rare gem.

Aries

(21 MARCH 19 APRIL)

The future holds promise and the end of

the year serves as your opportunity to start
making great things happen. Your positive
aura will help you attract new friends and
admirers. Citrine, in its yellow to golden hues,
will bring cheer.

Taurus

(20 APRIL 20 MAY)

Use this time to refocus and reflect on past

mistakes to facilitate your personal and career
growth. Keep an open mind and welcome any
help from family and friends. Exercise caution
in your investments and health. Sapphire
promotes clear thinking and allows your
sincerity to shine through.

Gemini

(21 MAY 20 JUNE)

There are social gatherings aplenty and you

are bound to amaze everyone with your
multifaceted personality. Share what you

130

Aquarius
(20 JANUARY 18 FEBRUARY)

new challenges ahead. An exciting new

project will kick start your year, and lay the
foundation for a possible promotion at work.
Exciting times indeed, but watch your health
and personal life. Tiger-eye promotes balance,
prosperity and vitality.

Virgo

Managing expectations is what you do best,

Learn when to say no,
and one of these days your skill will be
especially to tasks that
put to a truly challenging test. Trust your
judgement and be firm with your decisions.
are beneath you. This
Take control of your career and welcome new
will allow your higheropportunities. Tourmaline attracts positive
energy and fosters cool headedness.
ups to see your real
worth, and reward you
Libra
with more meaningful
Torn between career and personal life, you
responsibilities. A much- will have to make a decision sooner or later.
Weigh your priorities and choose the one that
needed break will help
will truly make you happy. An unexpected
message from an old friend may help.
you refocus. Amethyst,
and jasper promote clarity in
your birthstone, will guide Aventurine
decision-making.
you on your journey.
Scorpio
(AUGUST 23 SEPTEMBER 22)

(23 SEPTEMBER 22 OCTOBER)

(23 OCTOBER 21 NOVEMBER)

have and nurture relationships. Opal, with its

interplay of shimmering colours, will amplify
your grace, dynamism and fortune.

Cancer

(21 JUNE 22 JULY)

Embrace change. The coming year will bring

about new challenges and responsibilities,
which will call for a new strategy and attitude.
Jade, with its subtle and translucent colours,
brightens the mind and promotes sharp
thinking.

Leo

(JULY 23 AUGUST 22)

Celebrate past achievements and brace for

Its the time for merry-making and there are

plenty of opportunities to mingle. Network
with peers and an acquaintance might just
open up bright career prospects for you.
Emerald, garnet and ruby are your trusty
career companions.

Sagittarius

(22 NOVEMBER 21 DECEMBER)

Work tasks may seem numerous but take the

time to tackle them one by one and you will
be rewarded immensely. Your finances are
average but your personal life is rosy. Keep
a happy disposition. South Sea pearl, which
takes years to form, will remind you that
success knows no short cuts.

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ATELIER RING
RINGGUIDE
GUIDE

Your Ring
Rings are very intimate pieces of jewellery; some are worn
every day. This means it should fit well and feel comfortable.
Here are some important sizing tips:

Finding Your
Ring Size
Place your ring on top of any one
of these circles. The size of your
ring is where the circle sits snugly
around the inner circumference
of the ring.

14 (17.35MM)

2 (13.21MM)

3 (13.61MM)
15 (17.75MM)

4 (14.05MM)

CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT
Blessed Faith ring with
diamonds in white gold,
LARRY JEWELRY;
Ring with 24.46-carat
cushion-cut sapphire
from Ceylon, onyx
spots and nose, emerald
eyes in platinum,
CARTIER; Bouquet e
Rose rings with topazes
and diamonds in white
gold, NOVARESE; Fire
ring in platinum with a
diamond pave,
I GREGORI

16 (18.19MM)

6 (14.56MM)

17 (18.53MM)
7 (14.86MM)

18 (18.89MM)

8 (15.27MM)

9 (15.70MM)
19 (19.41MM)

Where Size Matters

A persons ring size may change over time
owing to age, injury or weight change. A
jeweller may be able to resize your ring,
although this depends on its design.

If your finger falls between two sizes, choose

the larger size to make sure it will fit; a wider
ring may require a slightly larger size, because
it covers more of your finger.

Measure your finger size at the end of the day

when your fingers are at their largest (like
sizing shoes).

Wrap a piece of string or a strip of paper

around your finger. Mark the point where the
two ends meet. Measure the string or paper
against a ruler to get the circumference of
your finger. Divide that by 3.14 to get the
diameter of your finger. Look up your ring size
using the table shown on the right.

Dont measure finger sizes when your

hands are cold; let them warm up to room
temperature.

132

10 (16.00MM)

20 (19.84MM)

12 (16.51MM)

21 (20.02MM)
13 (16.92MM)

ATELIERSHOWDIARY
FACETS

January 2013

May 2013

September 2013

5-7 JAN

18-22 MAY
Vicenza Oro Spring
Vicenza, Italy
www.vicenzaoro.org

1-3 SEP
JAA International Jewellery Fair
Sydney, Australia
www.jaa.com.au

31 MAY 3 JUN
JCK Las Vegas
Las Vegas, USA
Lasvegas.jckonline.com

1-4 SEP
International Jewellery London
London, UK
www.jewellerylondon.com

31 MAY 3 JUN
Vicenza Oro Italian Club
Las Vegas, USA
www.vicenzaoro.org

8-12 SEP
Vicenza Oro Fall
Vicenza, Italy
www.vincezaoro.org

June 2013

13-17 SEP
HK Jewellery and Watch Fair
Hong Kong, China
www.jewellerynetasia.com

Mumbai Jewellery and Gem Fair

Mumbai, India
www.jewelleryfair.in/mumbai
19-24 JAN

Vicenza Oro Winter, T-Gold

Vicenza, Italy
www.vicenzafair.com
21-25 JAN

Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

(SIHH)
Geneva, Switzerland
www.sihh.org
23-26 JAN

20-23 JUN
Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair
Hong Kong, China
www.jewellerynetasia.com

International Jewellery Tokyo

Tokyo, Japan
www.ijt.jp

February 2013

July 2013

2-4 FEB

6-8 OCT
Delhi Jewellery and Gem Fair
Delhi, India
www.jewelleryfair.in/delhi

6-8 JULY
JAA Brisbane Jewellery Fair
Brisbane, Australia
www.jaa.com.au

JAA Melbourne Jewellery Fair

Melbourne, Australia
www.jaa.com.au
24-26 FEB

JA Winter Show
New York, USA
www.nationaljeweler.com

18-21 JULY
Singapore International Jewellery Show
Singapore, Singapore

22-25 FEB

29-31 JULY
JA New York
New York, USA
www.nationaljeweler.com

Inhorgenta Munich
Munich, Germany
www.inhorgenta.com

August 2013

26 FEB - 2 MAR

Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair

Bangkok, Thailand

March 2013
5-9 MAR

HKTDC International Jewellery Show

Hong Kong, China
www.hktdc.com/fair/hkjewellery-en
16-18 MAR

25 APR 2 May
BaselWorldBasel, Switzerland
www.baselworld.com

134

12-15 OCT
Singapore Jewellery & Gem Fair
Singapore, Singapore
www.jewellerynetasia.com

November 2013
21-24 NOV
Dubai International Jewellery Week
Dubai, UAE
www.jewelleryshow.com

Show

Diary

China International Gold, Jewellery and Gem

Fair
Shenzhen, China

April 2013

27-29 AUG
Japan Jewellery Fair
Tokyo, Japan
www.japanjewelleryfair.com

October 2013

AGENDA

JANUARY, 19-24

MAY, 18-22

SEPTEMBER, 7-11

MARCH, 5-9

MAY 31, JUNE 3

at International Jewellery Show

Hong Kong

JUNE, 20-22

2013

AUGUST

at Jck - Las Vegas

NOVEMBER

at Tecnogold - So Paulo
at India International Jewellery Show
Mumbai

at Dubai International Jewellery Week

Dubai
* Dates to be conrmed

www.vicenzaoro.org

JEWEL BOX

The little black dress has always played a key yet

neutral role in any self-respecting fashionistas
wardrobe. Here now is one that ensures a head-totoe glow. Admired recently at the Ukraine Fashion
Week, this black diamond gown by UK designer
Debbie Wingham features more than 100 carats of
diamonds 25 two-carat black diamonds on the
peplum, and another 25 adorning the shrug.
The rest of the dress is embellished with beads
and pointer brilliants set in white-gold chain mail.
Weighing a staggering 13kg, the dress took six
months to finish, with all the sparkles stitched by
hand. Going for GBP3.5 million (USD5.6 million),
this one-off frock currently holds the world record
for the most expensive dress ever made.

Dress
to

Impress

136

by Emilie Yabut-Razon