Patina Manual

Iron, Steel, and Aluminum

Patinas, Metal Coatings
Dyes and Leafing

Composed by: Seth, Scott, Josh, Taylan, PJ, Rick, Michael and Amanda
Edited by: Melissa Snowden

Table of Contents
1. Timeline

p. 3

2. Bismuth Nitrate (Seth) p. 4

3. Ferric Acid - (Scott) p. 6
4. Cupric Nitrate Patina (Josh) p. 8
5. Make Anything Look Like Copper (PJ) p. 10
6. Copper (Taylan) p.12
6. Bronze on Plaster (Rick)

p.13

7. Leafing (Michael) p.14

8. Solvent Based Dyes (Amanda) p.15
9. Resources/Distributors p.17

Timeline:
0:01:07 Safety
0:03:48 Hot Patina on Aluminum, Steel and Iron Introduction
0:04:45 Surface Preparation for hot patinas
0:07:50 Hot Patinas: Bismuth, Ferric, and Cupric Nitrate
0:08:15 Torch Bismuth
0:08:50 Ferric Over White
0:33:52 Make anything Look Like Brass, Bronze, or Copper Preparation: Primer Coating
0:38:22 Copper Coating and Patina on Plaster
0:38:50 Copper Coating
0:41:17 Brass Coating and Patina on Plaster
0:45:15 Bronze Coating and Patina on Plaster
0:48:06 Copper Coating and Patina on Ceramics
0:51:32 Darkening Copper and Patina after Dry
0:56:17 Copper Coating, Patinas on Aluminum, Steel and Iron (Copper Coating on Steel)
0:58:27 Copper Leafing
1:03:30 Copper Leafing on Iron
1:05:37 Dye on Steel, Iron, an Aluminum
1:08:58 Copper Leafing on Glass
1:09:50 Recap
1:20:33 the End

Bismuth Nitrate
What is Bismuth Nitrate?
It is commonly used as an astringent and antiseptic.
Bi(NO3)35H2O is a highly water soluble crystalline Bismuth source for uses compatible
with nitrates and lower (acidic) pH. Nitrate compounds are generally soluble in water.
Nitrate materials are also oxidizing agents.
What we use it for
Bismuth works as a great base patina and rust inhibitor on aluminum, steel, or iron. When
mixed with water it will create a white base. You can experiment adding varying levels of
oxides and carbonates over the white base for added visual depth. In the resources section
I have included a link to a great site with 32 different patina recipes including several
using bismuth nitrate.
Process
This process is to be used for indoor pieces only. The patina breaks down too rapidly to
be used outdoors.
Prepare the Surface
All of the finishes for iron, steel, and aluminum begin with proper metal preparation.
The best way to clean the surface is by sandblasting using course sand. Sandblasting
gives a nice tooth to the surface, which helps the finish and does a good job of cleaning
the metal.
Patina rapidly after sandblasting. Prolonged contact with air will contaminate the surface
of most metals.
Ferrous metals (iron and steel) oxidize very quickly, while aluminum oxidizes a little
more slowly.
Rust (oxidation) starts forming on iron and steel in about 30 minutes, and 3 to 6 hours
for aluminum. This oxidation or rust is the main reason these metals are so difficult to
finish. You should be ready to apply the finish as soon as the surface is cleaned.

Apply the Patina

As with the other hot patinas, the metal is first coated with alumina black.
In good ventilation, and wearing a face-mask, heat the metal with a torch until the
solution steams off instantly, and leaves the color solid and dry on the surface. The
temperature of the metal should be about 200 degrees. You will be able to tell this
temperature by sprinkling on a little water and hearing it sizzle.

5
If the metal is overheated, the brush will stick and burn. If the color on the surface is
accidentally burnt black with the torch, the patina may be simply reapplied to that area
with good results.
Apply wash of bismuth using a brush, air brush, or spray bottle. (If using a spray bottle,
clean with fresh water after each use so the metal spring does not rust. Alternatively, you
can buy a Spray Master sprayer that has a plastic spring, however it is three times as
much money.)
Seal Your Surface
Due to the possibility of continued color change, once a desired patina is reached, many
pieces will require Protection from further reaction. Sealing the surface from the
environment may be accomplished with either a lacquer or wax finish.
Lacquers provide good protection but may eventually chip, Use a high quality product to
avoid later discoloring. Clear nail polish also works for small areas. It may need to be
thinned to provide an even surface.
Paraffin or bees wax are also used to protect the surface of metals. Museum Wax and
Renaissance Wax are high quality commercial preparations. Wax may be applied directly
to the surface, or it may be thinned. Mixing the warmed wax in a 4/1 ratio with turpentine
will provide an easy-to-apply paste. Avoid commercially prepared paste waxes; they may
contain chemicals that will further color the piece. A waxed finish may not hold up to
wear and will certainly be attacked by soaps and detergents.

Ferric Nitrate
Ferric Nitrate is iron and nitric acid mixed together.
1. Clean your metal.
2. Heat with a propane torch, not an oxi acetylene torch as it puts out too much heat.
3. Heat to a temperature of 220 degrees or until water steams evenly off the surface of the
metal.
4. Using a fine misting spray bottle, coat piece with patina moving while spraying.
5. You can apply more or less until desired color is achieved.
6. After patina is applied you can wax your piece while hot. The wax brings out a more
vibrant color and brightens it up with a sheen. Buff the wax with a cloth between coats
to make sure the wax is completely covering. Wax is great for outdoor display.
7. Or you can let the metal cool and apply a lacquer.
Below are a few mixture ratios able to be done without many other chemicals:

Light to Dark Brown

Ingredients
Ferric Nitrate... 1/2 tsp
Distilled Water... 1 pint
Process
Heat metal and apply liquid. (Red to reddish brown has also been reported using this
recipe.)

Blue Green
Ingredients
Sodium Thiosulfate... 1/4 oz
Ferric Nitrate... 2 oz
Distilled Water... 1 quart
Process
Hot process. Solution hot (180 to 190F), metal hot (200F), cold wash water applied
after metal has cooled to around 100F. Wash solution over metal surface, let dry, then
wash piece in cool water. Repeat until color develops. For Yellow Green, dip in dilute
nitric acid, then wash and dry.

Straw Yellow
Ingredients
Ferric Nitrate... 1/2 tsp
Distilled Water... 1/2 pint
Process
Heat metal and apply hot liquid.

Cupric Nitrate Patina

Cupric nitrate also known as Cooper Nitrate is a water-soluble chemical
compound. In Its physical state it is a dark blue crystalline form and when dissolved into
a solution it works as a severe oxidizer. When used as a patina on metal it renders colors
from bluish greens to yellowish browns. These patinas hold up well indoors but are not
recommended for exterior use because of their rapid deterioration due to the elements.
Even indoors the patinas should be sealed with shellac (Permalac) or wax to maintain
their color.
Aluminum
Clean the metal of all dirt and oil which would prevent the patinas from adhering.
Apply a basecoat of Alumina Black by either submerging into a bath or wiping
on.
Pat the piece dry.
Heat the metal using a torch.
Apply the Cupric Nitrate onto the hot surface with a brush or by spraying on
while continuing to heat the surface.
Cupric Nitrate will produce a soft green color.
Steel/Iron
Clean the metal of all dirt, oil and rust which would prevent the patinas from
adhering.
Apply coat of Prestone Black by submerging in a bath. This seals the metal and
prevents rusting.
Pat or towel dry.
Heat the metal using a torch.
Apply a coat of Bismuth White while continuing to heat the surface. This will
provide a good base and give the patina a surface to grip to as well as act as a rust
inhibitor.
Apply the Cupric Nitrate onto the hot surface with a brush or by spraying on
while continuing to heat the surface.
Because of the hot undercoat, the Cupric Nitrate will produce a more vivid and
intense color (rust greens and browns).
Compared to Aluminum or steel, Iron tends to hold patinas much better and
longer.
Experiment with different application techniques to achieve desired effects. Introducing
other elements such as oxides and carbonates helps to stabilize the patinas as well as
alters the color tones. In addition, the use of pigments suspended in nitrates can be
utilized.

Color Tone Tips

9
To achieve a:
Greener tone use cooper carbonate or acetic acid (vinegar).
Bluer tone dip in a weak lye solution.
Turquoise tone expose to diluted ammonia solution.

10

Make Anything Look Like Copper

The Copper Patina will go on all types of materials from Stone, Plaster, Clay, Iron, Steel,
and Aluminum
-Opens a wide range of possibilities
I. Iron, Steel, Aluminum
*Important: Apply 2 layers of protective coating. Best results shown when using a twopart epoxy (pro-line # 4818). Must apply two layers to the surface of material.
Application usually applies heavy, however it is possible to thin out the application by
utilizing a spray gun during the process. Mix both parts A and B thoroughly, and the
combined parts again before applying to the surface. Epoxy cures in a total time of 24
hours per coat, and best results are created when applying two coats. (Important to allow
each coat to cure for 24 hours each). Other forms of protective coating that may be used
are acrylics and water base urethane. During this step it is important to cover the
complete surface and every area must be covered. If not the patina will cause the piece to
rust.
Patina Application
*Important to utilize some kind of primer first on the piece.
Apply either by brush, roller, or spray gun. Best results are shown when application is
done by brush, and variation in color is shown when done by sponge. If you do not like
the initial patina you can apply more onto the piece later. It is possible to rework the
patina three to four times until you have found the desired results Afterwards some kind
of sealer must be used depending on the final location of the object.
II. Plaster / Ceramics
Genuinely want to apply two coats of copper patina to the surface. However, more coats
of the copper patina will result in a richer finish. The drying time for each coat of the
patina is six hours. Allow the full six hours of drying time between each coat before
applying a new one. For a more natural effect brush or sponge the copper onto the
surface.
* To achieve a more desired effect when working with the patinas it is also possible to
combine other chemicals to get a darker richer finish. Some of these chemicals that work
well with the copper patina finish are Cupric chloride, Sulphurated potash, Cupric nitrate,
Bismuth, and Ferric nitrate. When applying these chemicals on top of the patina the
surface color will turn pink indicating that the chemicals are adhering to the piece with
the patina. Allow the chemicals to dry and rework to the surface till the desired surface
has been achieved.
Patina Formulas Used

11
Apple Green
(Cold application)
3 oz. (85 grams) Cupric chloride
oz. (15 grams) Ammonium chloride
1 pint (approx. liter) Water
Add the chemicals to the water and stir with a nonreactive implement. Brush or sponge
the patina all over the metal's surface, leaving it puddled all over the piece. Allow drying
several hours or overnight. Reapply gently, so as not to disturb the first layer, which will
be powdery. Reapply at least one more time. Rinse surface gently.
Liver-of-sulphur Black
(Torch technique)
Approximately 50 grams of Sulphurated potash (Liver of sulphur)
1 liter water
The amount of potash can be varied in a very wide range to produce different densities of
black. Grind the potash in a mortar, add it to the water, and stir with a nonreactive rod
until the chemical is totally dissolved. This patina is much used on bronze sculpture, but
we currently use this patina only over a layer of blue-green. In good ventilation, and
wearing a facemask, heat the metal with a torch until the solutionbrushed on with a soft
brushsteams off instantly. Take care not to burn the surface of the blue-green while
applying the second layer.
Blue-green
(Torch technique)
200 grams Cupric nitrate
1 liter water
Grind the cupric nitrate in a mortar, add it to the water, and stir with a nonreactive rod
until the chemical is totally dissolved. In good ventilation, and wearing a facemask, heat
the metal with a torch until the solutionbrushed on with a soft brushsteams off
instantly, and leaves the color solid and dry on the surface. If the metal is overheated, the
brush will stick and burn. If the color on the surface is accidentally burnt black with the
torch, the patina may be simply reapplied to that area with good results.

12
Brown
(Torch technique)
. 30 grams Ferric nitrate
1 liter water
Add the ferric nitrate to the water and stir with a nonreactive rod until the chemical is
totally dissolved. In good ventilation, and wearing a facemask, heat the metal with a torch
until the solutionbrushed on with a soft brushsteams off instantly. The patina is very
transparent, and must be built up slowly.

Copper
Copper on Plaster:

You need 2 coats of copper before patina at least

Each coat makes it "richer"
Nothing transparent all opaque
Plaster sucks in material rapidly
You can extend drying time to have more working time by spraying isopropyl
alcohol on the patina.

Copper on Ceramics:

Easily applied with a sea sponge

Patina will only take in area with copper, old areas will stay
When it turns pink that means its activated so you dont need to spray more
Ammonium sulfide darkens everything. "Real nice accent"

Darker Copper (new) on Ceramic:

Paint it on glass / electro plate

Bismuth patina can be painted on
You can fast dry with a hairdryer
Cupric sulfur is transparent on copper
Copper chloride/ ammonium chloride comes out green

Primer is absolutely the most important thing, on iron/steel, etc. If not enough
primer is used then the metal will eventually rust.

13

Bronze on Plaster
Bronze on Plaster is essentially an epoxy paint-on coating applied to a plaster object.
Bronze particles are actually suspended in the epoxy. (Copper and Brass epoxy coatings
work the same way.
The 2-part epoxy coating is mixed well, then painted-on the plaster object. The epoxy
coating will cure in 6 hours. A second coat can be applied after a 24 hour drying time.
Patina application to the bronze coated plaster. A patina is a finish is usually produced
by oxidation or tarnishing of the metal.
For bronze, copper or brass epoxy coatings, you may wish to use 2 different patinas.
(Liver dark brown, or Tiffany - green)
The patina is best applied to the second coat soon after it is applied. These can be applied
using a Crown sprayer (an aerosol can attached to a plastic spray reservoir), or an HVLP
sprayer.
After spraying it on, you can use a brush or natural sponge to stipple the finish, or to
remove excess patina. It will take 15 minutes to activate and begin the color change.
You may also use a plastic wrap on the object to limit oxidation or to create air pockets
for a varied surface.

14

Leafing
You can leaf almost anything!
First you most decide which materials you will need. Leafing comes in copper, gold,
silver, Imitation gold (brass) and Imitation silver (aluminum). Choosing the right glue is
also important. Water based sizing or glue works well for indoor pieces only. For pieces
that will encounter the elements an oil-based sizing is recommended.
You will also need a few other tools. A bristle brush for applying the glue and another
brush for tamping the leafing down. A cotton ball is also useful for tamping and
smoothing out the leafing.
Steps to leafing:
1. apply the sizing everywhere you want leaf. Use the sizing carefully, as excess
sizing will take away detail and create a mess
2. Apply sheets of leafing and begin stippling the leafing onto the piece and into
contact with sizing by using your clean bristle brush.
3. Two layers are recommended if you wish to use a patina.
Special Considerations:

If leafing on smooth substrates it is advisable to create tooth, by sanding or

sandblasting

Hot patinas will not work on leafing.

15

Solvent Based Dyes

The solvent dyes, that Ron Young offers, are extremely versatile finishing tools. They are
made for conservation/ replication and can be used as an accent over an existing patina.
For example, orange and yellow will duplicate the look of ferric nitrate, or add a little
white to hint at the illusion of titanium oxide in the ferric nitrate appearance.
Ron Youngs dyes work on any media. They are commonly used to apply color to a
difficult material (glass, resin, etc.), change the existing color of a finish, or repair a
damaged finish without having to go back into with an acid.
The solvent dyes can be sprayed, poured, or sponged on, in addition to having the ability
of mixing with: lacquers, waxes, epoxies, oils, resins, or any other solvent based product.
All of the colors are transparent except white.
The colors available are as follows:
Red
(these two tend to fade
Blue
over time outdoors)
Blue green
Green
Violet
Black
Brown
Orange
(these three work well outdoors)
Yellow
White (opaque)
They may be blended to create different shades and diluted using the Dye Thinner.
The Solvent Dye Thinner should always be used to dilute solvent dyes, because they are
very concentrated. When the thinner is added, the dyes will become more transparent.
DO NOT substitute Rons dye thinner for another brand. His thinner has UV inhibitors,
corrosive inhibitors for all metals, and binders that help maintain the integrity of his dyes.
If the Solvent Dyes sound interesting to you, then you might want to try
The Solvent Dye Kit (can be found at sculptnouveau.com)
Includes the following:
1 oz. of Solvent Dye in every color (10).

16

8 oz. of Solvent Dye Thinner.

8 oz. of IMS Metal Cleaner.
12 oz. spray can of Permalac Lacquer.
12 oz. spray can of Deft.
4 oz. container of Permalac Lacquer.
2 oz. of clear Wax for ferrous metals.
2 oz. of clear Wax for nonferrous metals.

Nine of the dye colors are transparent with the white being the opaque exception.
The dyes blend together easily to create any color. The dyes may be applied to any
surface, including ferrous metals and glass. They may also be used to tint resins, epoxies,
clear coatings, and waxes.

17

Resources
Bismuth Nitrate is currently $24.95 for a 100 gram bottle.
http://secure.sciencecompany.com/Bismuth-Nitrate-100g-P6380C672.aspx
Patina Recipes:
http://secure.sciencecompany.com/Do-It-Yourself-Patina-Formulas-W12C672.aspx#
Recipe 19 is called Antique White and calls for 2 tsp. bismuth nitrate and 8 oz. of
water.
Material Safety Data Sheet:
http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/b3396.htm
Spray Master Bottle
http://www.spraymastertech.com/

Ferric Nitrate and wax:

www.sculptnouveau.com.
Mixture ratios for Ferric Nitrate:
www.sciencecompany.com.
Torch Technique:
http://www.davidmbowman.com/dmb/wallpieces/construction/wpsurface.htm#torch

18

Chemicals
Atlas Chemical
2929 Commercial St., San Diego, CA 92113
1-619-232-7391
www.atlaschemical.com
Sculpture Depot
418 8th St. SE Unit B5, Loveland, CO 80537
1-800-260-4690
www.sculpturedepot.net
Compleat Sculptor
90 Van Dam St., New York, NY 10013
1-800-972-8578
www.sculpt.com
Copper Harbor
2300 Davis St., San Leandro, CA 94577
1-510-639-4670
www.copperharbor.com
Ceramic Shell Casting Material
Townsend Atelier
100 Cherokee Blvd., Chattanooga, TN 37405
423-903-1488
www.townsendatelier.com
Bity Mold Material
521 Sterling Dr., Richardson, TX 750811-888-676-2489
www.brickintheyard.com
Remet
210 Commons Rd., Utica, NY 13502
1-800-445-2424
www.remet.com
Ransom & Randolph
3535 Briarfield Blvd., Maumee, OH 43537
1-800-800-7496
www.ransom-randolph.com

19

Westech Products
1242 Enterprise Court, Corona, CA 92882
1-951-279-4496
http://www.westechproducts.com

20
Clear Coatings Sealers
Sculpt Nouveau
PO Box 460459, Escondido, CA 920461-800-728-5787www.sculptnouveau.com
Peacock Laboratories
1901 S. 54th St., Philadelphia, PA 19143
1-215-729-4400
www.permalac.com
Pro Line
2646 Main St., San Diego, CA 92113
1-619-231-2313
XIM Products, Inc.
1169 Bassett Rd., Westlake, OH 44145
1-440-871-4737
www.ximbonder.com
Leaf
Sepp Leaf Products
381 Park Ave South, New York, NY 10016
1-800-971-7377
www.seppleaf.com

21
Magazines
Anvil's Ring
www.abana.org
Fabricator
www.nomma.org
Metalsmith
ww.snagmetalsmith.org
w
Sculpture
www.sculpture.org
Sculpture Review
ww.sculpturereview.com
w
Metal / Metal Cleaner
Industrial Metal Supply
8300 San Fernando Rd., Sun Valley, CA 91352
1-818-729-3333
www.imsmetals.com

22
Mold Material
Townsend Atelier
100 Cherokee Blvd., Chattanooga, TN 37405
423-903-1488
www.townsendatelier.com
Bity Mold Material
521 Sterling Dr., Richardson, TX 75081
1-888-676-2489
www.brickintheyard.com
Sculpture Depot
418 8th St. SE Unit B5, Loveland, CO 80537
1-800-260-4690
www.sculpturedepot.net
Compleat Sculptor
90 Van Dam St., New York, NY 10013
1-800-972-8578
www.sculpt.com
Ball Consulting
Suite 201, 338 14th St., Ambridge, PA 15003
1-800-225-2673
www.ball-consulting-ltd.com
Organizations
International Sculpture Center
19 Fairgrounds Road, Suite B, Hamilton, NJ 08619
1-609-689-1051
www.sculpture.org
National Sculpture Society
237 Park Ave., New York, NY 10017
www.nationalsculpture.org
Art Metal
www.artmetal.com

23
Pedestals
The Compleat Sculptor
90 Van Dam St, New York, NY 10013
1-800-972-8578
www.sculpt.com
Photographic Services
Stan Edmondson Photography
Los Angeles, CA
1-626-795-3872
stan@stanedmondson.com
Pigments and Oxides
Douglas & Sturgess
730 Bryant St., San Francisco, CA 94107
1-888-278-7883www.artstuf.com
Primers
Diamond Vogel
1110 Albany Place SE, Orange City, IA 51041
1-800-728-6435
www.diamondvogel.com

24
Protective Coating for Ferrous Metals
Locktite Corp.
1 001 Trout Brook Crossing, Rocky Hill, CT 06067
1-800-562-8483
www.henkelna.com
Putty for Bronze
Devcon
3 0 Endicott St., Danvers, MA 01923
1-800-626-7226
www.devcon.com
Sprayer
Vista Paint Store
611 Sycamore, Vista, CA
1-760-598-0040
www.vistapaint.com
Sprayer for Metal Coatings
ES Manufacturing, Inc.
2500 26th Ave. N, St. Petersburg, FL 33713
1-727-323-4040
www.esmfg.com

25
Supplies / Tools
Sculpture Depot
4 18 8th St. SE Unit B5, Loveland, CO 80537
1-800-260-4690
www.sculpturedepot.net
Compleat Sculptor
90 Van Dam St., New York, NY 10013
1-800-972-8578
www.sculpt.com
Torches
Uniweld Products
2850 Ravenswood Rd., Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312
1-800-323-2111
www.uniweld.com

26
Wax
Sculpt Nouveau
PO Box 460459, Escondido, CA 92046
1-800-728-5787
www.sculptnouveau.com
Ball Consulting
Suite 201, 338 14th St., Ambridge, PA 15003
1-800-225-2673
www.ball-consulting-ltd.com
The Compleat Sculptor
90 Van Dam St, New York, NY 10013
1-800-972-8578
www.sculpt.com
Remet
210 Commons Rd., Utica, NY 13502
1-800-445-2424
www.remet.com
Westech Products
1242 Enterprise Court, Corona, CA 92882
1-951-279-4496
http://www.westechproducts.com

27
Distributors
Sculpt Nouveau products are also available at these locations:
Industrial Metal Supply
www.imsmetals.com
San Diego, California (800) 636-3536
Irvine, California (800) 350-6768
Sun Valley, California (800) 371-4404
Phoenix, Arizona (Capital Metals) (800) 654-9076
Riverside, California (800) 300-9900
Sculpture Depot
www.sculpturedepot.net
(800) 260-4690
418 8th Street S.E. Unit B-7
Loveland, Colorado 80537
Townsend Atelier
www.townsendatelier.com
(423) 903-1488
PO Box 4742
Chattanooga, TN 37405
Ball Consulting
www.ball-consulting-ltd.com
(888) 967-7727
4665 South Ash Ave - Suite G-15
Tempe, Arizona 85282
Bity Mold Supply
www.brickintheyard.com
(888) 676-2489
523 Sterling Dr
Richardson, Texas 75081
Medwedeff Forge
www.johnmedwedeff.com
(618) 687-4304
695 Future Lane
Murphysboro, Illinois 62966
Copper Harbor
ww.copperharbor.com
w

28
(510) 639-4670
2300 Davis St
an Leandro, California 94577
S
The Compleat Sculptor
www.sculpt.com
(800) 9-SCULPT
90 Van Dam St.
New York, NY 10013
Barnes Products
www.barnes.com.au
+(612) 9793 7555
6 Homedale Road
Bankstown, NSW 2200
Australia
Sculpture Supply Canada
www.sculpturesupply.com
(866) 285-5509
345 Munster Ave
Toronto, Ontario M8Z 3C6
Canada
Sculpt Nouveau
www.sculptnouveau.com
(800) 728-5787