CITRUS

IN
EIGHT
COURSES

www.playingwithfireandwater.com

In early February of 2012, I invited a group of friends to my

home in Connecticut for dinner. I had recently returned from a
trip to New York City laden with bags of beautiful citrus. These
jewel-like fruits, some of which I had never tasted before,
became the inspiration for the dinner.
It was not my intention that the citruses would be the focus of
each of the eight courses, but the continuous thread that linked
them together. Each variety was chosen for their unique aroma
and the acidic balance that they would lend to each dish.
On these pages, I have documented the citrus dinner with
photos and recipes.
I hope you enjoy!

on the front cover:

Citrus x microcarpa Calamondin

Cit
Calamondin is believed to have originated in China and introduced to the West from
the Philippines, where it is widely cultivated and known as calamansi. The fruits are
bite-sized , usually less than 2.5cm/1 in diameter. Their are sweet and the pulp very
tart.

-2-

table of contents

course

ARTICHOKE | LIMEQUAT . . . . . . . . . . . . . pages 4-9

course

OYSTER | KIEFFER LIME . . . . . . . . . . . . pages 10-15

course

CARROT | MANDARINQUAT . . . . . . . . . . pages 16-23

course

CHICKEN LIVER | BLOOD ORANGE. . . . . . pages 24-29

course

COD | RANGPUR LIME . . . . . . . . . . . . pages 30-35

course

VEAL | MEYER LEMON . . . . . . . . . . . . pages 36-43

course

BLACK SESAME | YUZU . . . . . . . . . . . pages 44-49

course

CHOCOLATE | BERGAMOT . . . . . . . . . . pages 50-56

-3-

-4-

ARTICHOKE
LIMEQUAT

The first course, the amuse bouche, consists of a shot of soup and a spoonful of
salad, both served at room temperature.
The soup departs from a classic veloute in that it contains no cream or yolks,
instead it relies on the starch in the vegetables to thicken it, allowing the flavors
to remain clean, brightened by the limequat- flavored cooking water. It can be
made a day or two in advance, although the acid will have flattened a bit easily
corrected by adding a few drops of limequat juice before serving.
The salad offers a mouthful of textures and flavors: earthy, smoky, crisp, creamy.
All of the components can be prepared in advance, except for the apple, and
mixed together shortly before serving.

Citrus x floridana Eustis

Limequats are a cross between a key lime and a kumquat, hybridized in 1909. The fruits
are round or slightly oval and measure between 2.5-3.8cm /1-1 high. The skins are
sweet and the pulp is very acidic.
Substitute 1 part kumquat and 2 parts key lime for juice and zest

-5-

ARTICHOKE
BACON

SUNCHOKE CHESTNUT
PISTACHIO

-6-

WATER CHESTNUT
LIMEQUAT

-7-

ARTICHOKE VELOUTE

SUNCHOKE SALAD

1 liter water
100g limequats
1 clove garlic, peeled
1 bay leaf
5g salt
80g peeled and trimmed artichoke heart,
sliced 1/2 thick
40g peeled sunchoke, sliced 1/2 thick
20g whole milk

140g peeled sunchokes

50g chestnuts, roasted until tender, peeled,
skinned and cooled
50g green apple, peeled
10g parsley puree from oil (see pg. 43)
25g creme fraiche
12g limequat juice
2g microplaned limequat zest
10g walnut oil
salt and pepper
30g smoky bacon, minced, fried until crisp,
and drained.
8g chopped pistachios

Bring the water to a boil. Cut the limequats

in half, squeeze the juice into the pot, and
drop in the rinds. Add the garlic, bay leaf,
and salt and boil for 2 minutes. Add the
artichoke and sunchoke slices and cook
until tender.
Remove the cooked vegetables from the
pot with a slotted spoon to a blender. Add
80g of the cooking water, along with the
cooked garlic clove, and the milk to the
blender.. Puree until smooth, adding more
cooking water to thin, if needed. Reserve
re m a i n i n g co o k i n g wate r to co o k
sunchokes for salad.
Allow soup to cool to room temperature
before serving.

Cook sunchokes in artichoke cooking water

until tender and allow to cool. Cut
sunchokes, chestnuts, and apple into 6mm/
dice and place in medium bowl..
In a separate bowl whisk together the
parsley puree, creme fraiche, limequat juice
and zest. Slowly whisk in the walnut oil and
season with salt and pepper. Fold into the
diced vegetables until they are evenly
coated. Just before serving, fold in the
bacon and pistachios.

-8-

LIMEQUAT CRISPS

CARAMELIZED BABY ARTICHOKES

100g water
60g sugar
8 thin limequat slices, seeds removed

4 baby artichokes
10g butter
salt

Place water and sugar in a skillet and boil

on hight heat for 4 minutes. Turn heat to
low and drop in limequat slices. Simmer for
2 minutes, then remove with a fork to a
parchment lined baking sheet. Dehydrate at
60C/140F for 4-6 hours or until dry and
crisp

Snap off tough outer leaves of artichokes

and trim 1/2 off the tips. Peel the stems to
expose the hearts and cut each in half
lengthwise. Melt the butter in a small skillet
over medium-low heat. Add the artichokes
and cook gently, covered, turning
occasionally. When they are tender, uncover
and turn heat up to medium-high. Continue
to cook until they are golden brown. Season
with salt. Cool to room temperature before
serving.

TO PLATE
Pour 25g of ARTICHOKE VELOUTE into each shot glass. With scissors, cut a slit in each of the
LIMEQUAT CRISPS and hang one on the rims of each glass.
Make quenelles with the SUNCHOKE SALAD and drop onto serving spoons. Top each with a
CARAMELIZED BABY ARTICHOKE

-9-

-10-

OYSTER
KIEFFER LIME

The second course features a tempura oyster on a bed of green curry and
avocado puree that reads like an aromatic guacamole. Served on the half shell,
the hot, crisp oyster contrasts with the cold, creamy guacamole. The powdery
topping adds another texture and reinforces the flavor of coconut and kieffer
lime that permeates the guacamole.
The dry mix for the tempura and the powder can be made days ahead. The
green curry paste can be made a week or two in advance and held in the
freezer. The recipe makes more than needed for the guacamole, but youll be
glad to have more on hand to flavor soups, stews, and curries. The curry sauce
can also be made the day before, but the avocado should be blended in no more
than an hour in advance or it will darken.
The oysters can be shucked hours ahead and kept chilled in their liquor, to be
cooked just before serving.

Citrus x hystix
Kieffer lime, also known as combava, kaffir lime, and makrut lime, originated in
Indonesia, and is widely used and grown in southeast Asia. The zest and the leaves
possess a musky citrus aroma, and the juice is tart and slightly bitter.
Substitute kieffer leaves for the zest and lime juice for the juice.

-11-

OYSTER

AVOCADO

GREEN CURRY

-12-

COCONUT

KIEFFER LIME

-13-

TEMPURA OYSTERS

2g dried shrimp
5g coarse salt
1g kieffer lime zest, cut in strips
1g kieffer lime leaves, torn into small pieces
40g lemongrass (white part only) sliced
thinly across the grain
21g cilantro roots, thinly sliced
14g galangal, peeled and sliced thinly across
the grain
14g gingerroot, peeled and sliced thinly
across the grain
30g shallot, peeled and thinly sliced
20g garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
75g green thai bird chilies, stems removed
and thinly sliced

90g flour
15g coconut powder
10g baking powder
15g cornstarch
2g salt
.5g ground sichuan peppercorns
200g seltzer water
vegetable oil for deep frying
8 oysters, shucked and patted dry, bottom
shells washed, dried and set aside
Wondra flour for dusting
In a medium bowl, combine all of the dry
ingredients with a whisk.
Heat the oil to 190C/375F
When ready to cook, whisk the seltzer into
the dry mix until smooth. Lightly dust the
oysters with Wondra and immediately dip
into tempura batter, then drop in hot oil.
Deep fry for 2-3 minutes, or until is lightly
colored. Serve immediately.

Add the first four ingredients to a stone

mortar and with a pestle, pound until
reduced to powder. Add kieffer lime zest and
leaves, and lemongrass and pound to a
paste, Add cilantro roots, galangal, and
ginger and pound to a paste. Add shallots
and garlic and pound to a paste. Add chilies
and pound to a smooth paste. Alternately,
ingredients can be processed in food
processor (in the same order), but will
require constant scraping and pulsing to
achieve smooth paste.
Unused paste can be frozen for later use.

GREEN CURRY PASTE

3g coriander seeds, toasted
1g cumin seeds, toasted

-14-

GREEN CURRY GUACAMOLE

minute more. Remove lime leaves and allow

to cool slightly.
Scrape warm curry sauce into a blender and
add cilantro and scallion. Blend until smooth
and pass through a sieve into a bowl. Chill
thoroughly.
To serve, remove peel and pit from avocado
and press the flesh through a sieve into the
bowl of curry sauce. Blend well and season
with salt and lime juice, if needed.

396g can of coconut milk

50g GREEN CURRY PASTE
4 kieffer lime leaves
2g palm, or brown sugar
7g fish sauce
4g kieffer lime juice
18g cilantro leaves
25g green scallion tops
1 avocado
salt and kieffer lime juice to taste
Scoop the thick cream from the top of the
opened can of coconut milk into a skillet
set over medium heat. Cook the cream for
6-8 minutes until the oil separates and
pools on the surface of the reduced cream.
Stir in the curry paste and cook for a few
minutes until fragrant. Add the remaining
coconut milk from the can, the lime leaves,
and the sugar. Cook over medium high
heat, stirring occasionally, for 10-12
minutes, until reduced and thickened. Add
the fish sauce and lime juice and cook 1

COCONUT KIEFFER LIME POWDER

6g kieffer lime leaves, crumpled
15g coconut powder
.75g salt
.20g citric acid
Place all ingredients in a blender and blend
until leaves are reduced to a powder. Sift
through a fine sieve and store powder in an
airtight container until ready to serve.

TO PLATE
Place an oyster shell on each plate, held level with small stones, rock salt, or seaweed. Drop a
dollop of GREEN CURRY GUACAMOLE on each shell and spread to form a bed. Place a
TEMPURA OSTER atop and sprinkle each with COCONUT KIEFFER LIME POWDER and top
with a sprig of salad burnet, if desired.

-15-

-16-

CARROT
MANDARINQUAT

The third course celebrates carrots in six distinct preparations: roasted,

vinaigrette, nukazuke (a Japanese pickling method that utilizes rice bran as a
medium for lactic acid fermentation), in an emulsion that serves as a sauce, in a
crispy granola, and their tops transformed into an herbaceous fluid gel.
Sweet, earthy beets are repeated in three of the preparations, while curls of goat
gouda makes the final element.
The vinaigrette carrots and beets and nukazuke carrots should be started the
day before, but the nukadoko (the rice bran bed) needs to be prepared at least 3
weeks in advance for proper fermentation.
The granola can be prepared days before and kept in an airtight container.
The emulsion and fluid gel can be made a day ahead, but the carrots and beets
should be roasted as close to service as possible.

Citrus x japonica Nippon

Mandarinquats are a cross between satsuma orange and meiwa kumquat, hybridized in
the US by the Dept of Agriculture and introduced in 1932. The fruits are oval and slightly
larger than a kumquat.. The skins are spongy and sweet and the pulp is tart.
Substitute kumquats for juice and zest

-17

CARROT

BEET

GOAT GOUDA

-18-

MANDARINQUAT

-19-

NUKADOKO

aromatics and bury a leaf of cabbage. that

has been torn in two The cabbage is used
to activate the lactic acid fermentation in
the bed and should be removed, discarded,
and replaced every other day for at least a
week. Towards the end of the week, taste
the cabbage before discarding: when it
begins to taste fermented and not just salty,
it is ready to use.
To make nukazuke, bury fresh raw washed
vegetables in the nukadoko bed for 1-2
days. Rinse before consuming.
To maintain nukadoko bed indefinitely: stir
the bed every day, maintaining room
temperature. When nukadoko becomes too
wet (liquid collects in bottom of container
from vegetable juices), add more toasted
bran. After awhile, the level of nukadoko will
begin to diminish because of what is left
clinging on the vegetables when they are
removed. At any time a small batch
(1/4-1/2 recipe) can be prepared separately
and blended into established bed. Allow a
few days for integration before adding
vegetables.
When you want a break from maintaining
the bed, it can rest dormant in the
refrigerator.

75g kosher salt

500g water
500g rice bran
4g dried shittakes
4g citrus zest strips
2 small dried thai chilies
1 clove garlic, peeled
2g piece of kombu
8g piece of ginger root, peeled
Bring the salt and water to a boil and let
cool.
Spread the rice bran on a baking sheet in
an even layer and toast in a preheated
149C/300F oven until it becomes fragrant
and lightly browned, stirring often. Let cool.
In a ceramic, glass or plastic container, mix
the brine with the bran until it resembles
wet sand. Bury the remaining ingredients in
the nukadoko and smooth the top, patting
it down to compress. Cover loosely and set
aside at room temperature (15-27C/
60-80F) to ferment. Each day, stir the
nukadoko, being careful to bury the
aromatics and compress.
After one week, remove and discard the

-20-

NUKAZUKE CARROTS

minutes, then open foil and roast for 10-15

minutes more, or until tender. Rub the skin
off the beets while still warm, then cut
each in quarters.
Keep the carrots and beets warm until
ready to serve.

NUKADOKO
8 orange baby carrots with tops, washed
and scrubbed
Bury the carrots in the active nukadoko bed
for 24 hours. Remove 4-5 hours before
serving and let sit at room temperature with
the residual bran still clinging to them. Rinse
just before serving.

VINAIGRETTE CARROTS AND BEETS

8 white or yellow baby carrots, peeled and
tops trimmed and reserved
24 yellow beet slices, cut 3mm/ thick
and 2.5cm/1 round
18g minced shallots
2g salt
2g microplaned mandarinquat zest
15g mandarinquat juice
45g olive oil

ROASTED CARROTS AND BEETS

8 purple or red baby carrots, scrubbed and
tops trimmed and reserved
4 baby candy cane beets, tops trimmed
36g unsalted butter
2 mandarinquats, sliced
2g salt

Cook the vegetables separately in a pot of

boiling salted water until they are just
tender, starting with the carrots (cook 6-8
minutes), and then the beets (cook 5-7
minutes). Drain both and add place in a
shallow dish.
Place the shallots, salt, zest and juice in a
bowl and whisk together. Slowly drizzle in
the olive oil, whisking until emulsified. Pour
over the vegetables in dish. Cover and let
marinate in refrigerator overnight. Remove
from refrigerator 1 hour before serving.

Cut 2 large sheets of foil. Place the carrots

on one and the beets on the other. Scatter
half of the remaining ingredients on top of
the carrots and repeat with the beets. Fold
the foil up around each vegetable packet
and crimp the seams together to enclose.
Place on a baking sheet and put in a
preheated 176C/350F. oven. Steam the
carrots for 5 minutes enclosed in foil, then
open foil and roast for 5 minutes more, or
until tender. Steam the beets for 10
-21-

CARROT EMULSION

CARROT AND BEET GRANOLA

10g dried coriander seeds

300g carrot juice
2g microplaned fresh galangal (substitute
ginger if not available)
2g salt
40g cold unsalted butter, cut into 3 pieces
10g Ultratex 8

12g vegetable oil

200g carrot, shredded through large holes
of box grater
200g beets,, shredded through large holes
of box grater
salt
Divide the oil between 2 skillets. Add the
carrots to one and the beets to the other.
Season both with a pinch of salt and toss
to coat with oil. Cover and set over low
heat. Sweat the vegetables gently until
tender, tossing and adding small amounts
of water if needed to keep them from
browning. The process should take 15-20
minutes.
Spread the cooked vegetables on silpat,
keeping them separate so the beets dont
bleed onto the carrots. Dehydrate at 65C/
150F for 12 hours, breaking up the clumps,
until they are dry and crisp.
Store granola in an airtight container.

Toast the coriander seeds in a dry skillet

over high heat. When they are very dark
and fragrant, pour in the carrot juice and
continue cooking over high heat until the
juice is 1/3 reduced, and 200g remains.
Remove from heat and allow to cool to
about 43C/110F. Strain into a blender. and
add the galangal and salt. Turn the blender
on and with the motor running add the cold
butter, 1 piece at a time and blend until
dissolved. Drop the ultratex into the center
of the blender and start the motor slowly,
raising up to high speed. Scrape down the
sides and repeat.
Serve at room temperature.

-22-

CHEESE CURLS

CARROT TOP FLUID GEL

2.5cm/1 thick slice of goat gouda

150g carrot top leaves

300g water
2g salt
.5g black pepper
3g agar
.5g xanthan

Trim the rind off the top and bottom of the

cheese and run a vegetable peeler or
cheese slicer along the narrow end to form
16 2.5cm/1 wide x 10cm/4 long ribbons.
Curl the cheese ribbons by rolling them
from one short end to the other..
Serve at room temperature.

Liquify the leaves, water, salt and pepper in

a blender. Strain, measure 280g of liquid
and return to rinsed out blender. Add the
agar and xanthan and blend briefly. Pour
contents into saucepan and set over
medium high heat. Bring to a full rolling boil
and remove from heat. Set aside and allow
to cool and solidify. When solid, cut block of
gel into smaller pieces and place in blender.
Blend in short spurts until gel is smooth and
fluid. Keep chilled until ready to use.

TO PLATE
Lay a swath of CARROT EMULSION across each plate. Sprinkle with a band of CARROT AND
BEET GRANOLA. In the center of each plate, arrange a NUKAZUKE CARROT, a warm
ROASTED CARROT, and a VINAIGRETTE CARROT on top of each other in an asterisk pattern.
Prop 2 warm ROASTED BEET quarters against the carrots on opposite sides. Arrange 3
VINAIGRETTE BEET discs over and around the carrots. Tuck 2 CHEESE CURLS between the
carrots. Dot the periphery with CARROT TOP FLUID GEL. Drizzle some of the vinaigrette over
the vegetables on each plate.
-23-

-24-

CHICKEN LIVER
BLOOD ORANGE

The fourth course is a petite version of Heston Blumenthals Meat Fruit, as

served in his London restaurant Dinner, with a few modifications The mock
orange consists of chicken liver parfait wrapped in a blood orange gel and
served with gingerbread crumbs. Its a transitional course that tastes luxurious,
yet is light enough to segue into the protein courses.
The parfait, gel, and gingerbread can all be made days in advance; the parfait
molded into spheres, wrapped and kept frozen, the gel kept chilled, and the
gingerbread crumbs kept in an airtight container. The parfait spheres can be
dipped in the gel the day before, chilled, and brought to room temperature
shortly before serving.

Citrus x sinensis Moro

Blood oranges, a mutation of the sweet orange, are characterized by their deeply
pigmented flesh and sweet berry-like flavor.
Substitute sweet orange for the juice and zest.

-25-

CHICKEN LIVER

GINGERBREAD

-26-

BLOOD ORANGE

-27-

CHICKEN LIVER PARFAIT

vide bag. Seal the bag at full vacuum and when

the water bath comes to temperature, drop in the
bag and cook for 40 minutes. Remove bag from
bath and chill for 24 hours
The next day, cut the bag open and spoon the
parfait into 32-38mm/1 - 1 diameter
hemisphere molds, preferably silicone, pressing
firmly to remove airpockets. Scrape excess parfait
from the top so that they are perfectly level and
freeze until they are solid.
When frozen, unmold 2 of the parfaits and quickly
torch the flat surface of one hemisphere just so it
is barely melted and immediately press onto flat
surface of the other to form a sphere. Quickly
wrap in a square of plastic wrap, twisting the
ends tightly to force the hemispheres together.
Immediately transfer to freezer. Repeat with
remaining parfaits.
The recipe will make more than 8 spheres,
allowing you to choose the most perfect ones for
presentation.

160g unsalted butter

60g shallots, finely sliced
2g garlic, finely sliced
2 bay leaves
150g ruby port
50g Sauternes
25g brandy
10g salt
125g eggs
225g chicken livers (trimmed weight), chilled
Place the butter, shallots, garlic and bay leaves in
a saucepan set over low heat and cook slowly for
20-30 minutes, until the shallots and garlic are
translucent and tender, but still pale. Cool to room
temperature.
While the shallots and garlic cook, reduce the
port, wine, and brandy in a pan set over high heat
until 25g remain. Cool to room temperature.
Whisk the eggs and salt into the reduced and
cooled alcohol and scrape the mixture into a sous
vide bag, followed by the chicken livers. Remove
the bay leaves from the butter mixture and add to
bag.. Seal at
full vacuum and gently knead the sealed bag to
blend ingredients. Cook in a 50C/122F water
bath for 20 minutes.
Remove the bag and raise the water bath
temperature to 65C/150F.
Pour the contents of the bag into a blender and
blend on high until smooth. Pass the mixture
through a fine sieve and pour into a clean sous

BLOOD ORANGE GEL

22g leaf gelatin
250g blood orange juice
40g liquid glucose
saffron threads
Soak the gelatin in cold water for 5 minutes to
soften.
-28-

Gently heat the blood orange juice and the

glucose. Add a very small pinch of saffron
threads and heat for 2 minutes, stirring. Check
the color of the juice by dropping a spoonful
onto a white plate. Depending on the color of
the blood orange juice, it should now be a
bright orange. If it is still too red, add another
small pinch of saffron and repeat. When
desired color is achieved, strain the mixture to
remove saffron threads and return to pan.
Remove the soften gelatin from the water,
squeezing to remove excess water, and add to
the pan. Heat gently until dissolved. Allow the
gel to come to room temperature to prepare
for dipping.
MOCK ORANGE
CHICKEN LIVER PARFAIT SPHERES, frozen
BLOOD ORANGE GEL, at room temperature
Umwrap a frozen parfait sphere and gently
pierce it with the pointed end of a wooden
skewer, inserting it 1/3 of the way into the
sphere. Dip the frozen sphere into the room
temperature gel.
Remove and rotate the sphere to evenly
distribute the gel on its surface. Repeat 3-4
times to achieve a thick, even coat. Insert the
flat end of the skewer into a piece of
styrofoam, florists oasis, or a container filled

with small pebbles to allow gel to set up for a

few minutes. Repeat with remaining spheres, in
small batches of 3. Invert spheres onto a tray
lined with parchment, not allowing them to
touch, and remove skewers. Cover with a dome
or inverted bowl and transfer to refrigerator for
at least an hour before serving and up to 8
hours in advance.

GINGERBREAD CRUMBS
138g flour
3g baking soda
1.5g each of ground cinnamon, ginger and
cloves
46g unsalted butter
55g sugar
27g brown sugar
13g molasses
12g beaten egg
In a bowl, combine the flour, baking saoda. and
spices. Beat the butter and sugars until
lightened. Beat in the molasses, then the egg.
Add the dry ingredients and beat until crumbly.
Spread out crumbs on a baking sheet and bake
at 163C/325F for 5 minutes. Stir crumbs and
bake 4-6 minutes more until dry and lightly
browned. Cool and store in airtight container.

TO PLATE
Spread a spoonful of GINGERBREAD CRUMBS on the center of a plate. Center a MOCK ORANGE
on the crumbs. With fingertip, gently press the center of orange to indent top and flatten slightly.
Insert a citrus, bay, or similar leaf with a short length of stem into the top of each orange.
-29-

-30-

COD
RANGPUR LIME

The fifth course highlights cod that has been salted to intensify its texture and
flavor, paired with bright Iberian flavors.
The cod must be started 2 days before serving to allow for salting and soaking.
The tomato sauce, olive puree, citrus butter, and braised fennel can be made a
day or two in advance, leaving the cooking of the cod and roasting of the
potatoes for just before service.

Citrus x limonia Rangpur

Rangpur lime is thought to be a hybrid of lemon and mandarin orange from India.
Although it resembles a mandarin, aromatically it is more like a lime, with fragrant zest and
sour flesh.
Substitute a blend of tangerine and lime for the juice and zest.

-31-

COD
TOMATO
RED PEPPER
FENNEL
GREEN OLIVE
FINGERLINGS
RANGPUR LIME

-32-

-33-

SALT COD

BRAISED FENNEL

8 portions cod loin (85g each)

coarse sea salt
100g RANGPUR LIME BUTTER

20g RANGPUR LIME BUTTER

20g pernod
240g fennel bulb, cut in 13mm/.5 dice
1g salt

Spread a 12mm/1/2 thick layer of salt in a

dish that will snugly hold the cod in a single
layer. Arrange the cod portions on top of
the salt, leaving a small space between
them. Cover with a 12mm/ 1/2 thick layer
of salt. Refrigerate for 24 hours.
Remove cod from salt and rinse well. Place
the cod in a large bowl or container and
cover with 3 liters/3 quarts of cold water.
Refrigerate for 24-30 hours, changing the
water 4-5 times. The cod is ready to cook
when the soaking water tastes barely salty.
When ready, drain and pat the cod portions
dry with paper towels. Set the cod on a
rack in the refrigerator for an hour to dry.
Remove the cod to a shallow dish and
cover with the butter, tossing each portion
to evenly coat. Place 4 portions of cod in
each of two sous vide bags, spreading
them out so that they barely touch.
Distribute any excess butter into the bags.
Vacuum seal the bags and cook in a 58C/
136F water bath for 15 minutes.
Keep warm until ready to serve.

Place all of the ingredients in a skillet set

over medium low heat. Toss and cover
tightly. Cook, stirring occasionally, until
fennel is very tender. Uncover, raise the
heat to medium high, and cook, stirring,
until most of the liquid is evaporated and
the fennel is coated in the flavored
butterfat.
ROASTED FINGERLINGS
16 small fingerling potatoes, scrubbed and
cut in half lengthwise
3g olive oil
1g salt
2 grinds black pepper
Place the potatoes in a bowl, drizzle with oil
and sprinkle with salt. Toss until well coated.
Arrange on a baking sheet in a single layer,
cut sides down. Roast in a 176C/350F
oven for 10-15 minutes until golden and
tender. Serve immediately.

-34-

TOMATO RED PEPPER SAUCE

5g shallot, minced
107g extra virgin olive oil

30g extra virgin olive oil

42g diced onion
9g minced garlic
260g diced red bell pepper
993g ripe plum tomatoes, peeled and diced
1.5g salt
3g pimenton (smoked paprika)

Place the olives, garlic, and shallots in a

blender and blend in short spurts, scraping
down the sides, until a chunky puree forms.
with the motor running, drizzle in the oil
through the top to form a smooth puree.
Serve at room temperature.

Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium low

heat. Sweat the onions and garlic until
translucent. Add the red pepper and sweat 5
minutes more. Add the tomatoes and salt,
raise the heat to medium high, cover pan,
and cook for 10-15 minutes, stirring
occasionally, until the peppers are tender and
the tomatoes begin to break down. Stir in the
pimenton and allow to cool slightly.
Transfer contents of pan to a blender or food
processor and blend until smooth. Return to
pan and keep warm.

RANGPUR LIME BUTTER

180g cold unsalted butter
30g minced shallots
270g rangpur lime juice
100g chardonnay
10g microplaned rangpur lime zest
Melt 18g butter in a skillet set over medium
heat. Add the shallots and saute until lightly
browned. Add the juice, raise the heat to
high, and reduce by 1/3. Cool to 38C/100F,
then scrape the reduction into a blender and
blend until smooth. Add half of the remaining
cold butter and blend for 2 minutes. Add
remaining butter and blend for 3 minutes.

CERIGNOLA PUREE
100g pitted Cerignola olives
5g garlic minced

TO PLATE
Spread a thin layer of TOMATO RED PEPPER SAUCE in the center of a plate or shallow bowl.
Arrange 4 ROASTED FINGERLING halves on the sauce. Cover each SALT COD portion with a
compacted layer of BRAISED FENNEL and place each on top of potatoes. Drop 4 small dollops of
RANGPUR LIME BUTTER between the potatoes, followed by a smaller dollop of CERIGNOLA
PUREE in its center. Drag the tip of a knife from center to one side. Garnish with fried fennel
fronds.
-35-

-36-

VEAL
MEYER LEMON
The sixth course is the last savory course, featuring pan seared sweetbreads and
slow cooked veal tenderloin. The tenderloin is cooked in an aromatic stock that
contains kefir whey the liquid left from draining thickened kefir. The whey
contains live cultures of bacteria and yeast. If unavailable, substitute yogurt or
fresh cheese whey.
The other components are roasted scallion curls, braised puntarelle and
mushroom sausage that consists of duxelles stuffed into a leek casing. The
puntarelle is a type of chicory that forms asparagus-like spears. Substitute small
heads of endive if unavailable.
The dish is sauced with taleggio aligot, a potato based puree, tart meyer lemon
emulsion, and a bright parsley oil
Most of the preparation can be done a day in advance: the sweetbreads soaked
and trimmed, the tenderloin trimmed and tied, the sausages and aligot
completed and reheated for service. The meyer lemon emulsion and parsley oil
can be made a few days in advance. .

Citrus x meyeri
Discovered in Beijing in 1908 by Frank Meyer. Thought to be either a mandarin/lemon or
orange/lemon hybrid with fragrant zest and moderately acidic flesh.
Substitute a blend of lemon and orange for the juice and zest.

-37-

VEAL
SWEETBREAD
TALEGGIO
MUSHROOM
PARSLEY

-38-

PUNTARELLE
MEYER LEMON

-39-

transfer to a preheated 60C/140F oven.

Braise for 45 minutes.
When ready to serve, remove string and
slice veal into 8 medallions.

KEFIR BRAISED VEAL

1.25 kilo veal tenderloin
salt and pepper
15g oil
1 onion, peeled and chopped
2 stalks celery, chopped
1 carrot, chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled
1 large shallot, sliced
90g vermouth
400g veal stock
290g kefir whey (substitute buttermilk if
unavailable)
15g meyer lemon zest
5 sprigs thyme
2 bay leaves
5g salt
10 whole black peppercorns

SWEETBREADS
350g veal sweetbreads
salt and pepper
Wondra flour
18g butter
Trim any large pieces of fat and veins from
the sweetbreads and separate into 8
equally sized nuggets. Cover them with
cold water and soak overnight in the
refrigerator. The next day, peel and trim
ex t ra n e o u s m e m b ra n e s f ro m t h e
sweetbreads and arrange them on a rack
set over a plate and allow them to air dry
in the refrigerator for at least an hour.
J u s t b efo re s e rv i n g , s e a s o n t h e
sweetbreads with salt and pepper and a
very light dusting of Wondra. Melt the
butter in a skillet over medium high heat.
Add the sweetbreads when the butter
foams and begins to brown. Saute for 2
minutes on each side and serve.

Trim and tie the veal tenderloin so that it is

an even thickness. Season liberally with salt
and pepper. Melt the oil over medium high
heat in a large, heavy baking vessel (such
as a Le Creuset). When the oil is hot, brown
the tenderloin on all sides and remove from
pot. Add the onion, celery, carrot, garlic and
shallot and saute until lightly browned. Add
the remaining ingredients and heat to
60C/140F. Return the veal to the pot and

-40-

MUSHROOM LEEK SAUSAGE

Scrape the contents of the skillet into a food

processor along with the mushrooms and
process until finely ground to the consistency
of couscous, scraping the sides to keep the
mixture uniform. Scrape the contents of food
processor back into the skillet and set over
medium heat, cooking slowly for 10-15
minutes. When it appears that the
mushrooms have released all of their juices,
raise the heat to high and cook, stirring
occasionally, until the juices evaporate and
the mushrooms begin to sizzle. Remove from
heat, season with salt and pepper, and allow
to cool to room temperature.
If sausage stuffer is available, slide a leek
casing over the narrow extension tube, taking
care to not tear the leek. Feed the filling
through until it fills the end of the casing- just
enough to release air pocket- then tie filled
end with string. Continue feeding until casing
is filled. with about 12.5cm/5 of filling.
Remove from tube and tie open end with
string, then tie center with another string to
form 2 sausages. Trim excess casing at both
ends. Repeat with remaining casings.
If sausage stuffer is not available, fill casings
by forcing the filling with thumbs through a
funnel fitted into one end of the casing.
Sear the sausages in a pan with some oil
until heated through. Cut sausages apart and
remove strings.

2 long, thin leeks

10g unsalted butter
3g garlic, minced
150g oyster mushrooms, trimmed and
brushed clean
salt and pepper
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
Trim the root ends from the leeks and cut
the tops where they begin to separate and
turn green. The trimmed leeks should be at
least 20cm/8 in length and no thicker than
25mm/1 in diameter. If necessary, peel off
the outer layers to make thinner.
Drop the leeks into the boiling water and
remove after 3 minutes. Using a dishtowel,
pull the outer layer of the hot leeks up and
over the tops until they're free. If they don't
slide off easily, return to the boiling water for
another minute or two. Repeat until you
have 4 casings of similar diameters.. Set the
casings aside in a bowl of cold water while
making the filling. Reserve the remains of
the leeks for the filling. Melt the butter in a
skillet set over medium low heat. Thinly slice
50g of the reserved leeks and add to skillet
along with garlic. Cover pan and sweat
vegetables until they are translucent, about
5 minutes.
-41-

PUNTARELLE

350F oven and bake for 15 minutes., or

until wilted and lightly browned. Remove
from oven and set aside until cool enough
to handle.
Pick up a scallion by the root end, holding
it between tip of forefinger and thumb.
With the other hand wind the scallion
around itself on forefinger to form a curl.
Slip off of finger onto baking sheet. Repeat
with remaining scallions. Cover loosely and
keep warm.

5g unsalted butter
8 thumb-sized puntarelle spears
1g salt
.3 grinds of pepper
18g white wine.
Melt the butter in a skillet set over medium
high heat. When it begins to color, add the
puntarelle, tossing to coat with butter.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brown on
all sides.
Transfer puntarelle to a small baking dish.
Deglaze the skillet with the wine and pour
over puntarelle. Cover the dish tightly with
a lid or foil and place in a 176C/350F oven.
Bake for 12-15 minutes, until tender crisp.
Serve immediately.

MEYER LEMON EMULSION

6g agar
.5g xanthan
23g sugar
1g salt
60g water
200g meyer lemon juice
7g meyer lemon zest
10g extra virgin olive oil

SCALLION CURLS
8 large scallions, roots and green tips
trimmed
olive oil
salt
pepper

In a saucepan,, whisk together the agar,

xanthan., sugar, and salt. Whisk in the water,
then the lemon juice. Set over high heat
and bring to a full rolling boil. Remove from
heat and set aside to cool and thicken.
Transfer mixture to a blender and blend for
a minute. With the motor running, drizzle in
the oil through the top and blend for 2
minutes more.

Lightly coat the scallions with oil and lay

them out on a sheet pan. Sprinkle lightly
with salt and pepper. Roast in a 176C/
-42-

TALEGGIO ALIGOT

and butter and blend for 2 minutes. Add

half of the taleggio and blend for 1 minute.
Add the remaining taleggio and blend for 1
minute more or until perfectly smooth.
Adjust seasoning. Transfer to a small pan
and keep warm until ready to serve.

1 litre water
3g salt
300g yukon gold potatoes, peeled and cut
into large chunks
6g garlic
8g meyer lemon juice
40g unsalted butter
90g taleggio, after rind has been removed

PARSLEY OIL
65g washed and well-dried flat parsley
leaves
250g neutral oil

Place the water, salt and potatoes in a

large pot and set over low heat. Cook,
controlling the temperature to maintain
60-65C/140-150F for 20 minutes, then
turn the heat to high and boil until potatoes
are very tender. Drain the potatoes,
reserving the cooking water. Allow to cool
slightly, then transfer potatoes to a blender,
along with 110g of the cooking water. Blend
until smooth. Add the garlic, lemon juice

Place the parsley and oil in a blender and

blend for 2 minutes. Transfer to a small pan
and heat until hot (about 93C/200F).
Strain through a coffee filter. The oil will
keep in the refrigerator for about a week
before it losses flavor. Save the solids in the
filter to flavor other dishes.

TO PLATE
Drop a large spoonful of TALEGGIO ALIGOT at top of plate and drag to bottom. Place a
medallion of KEFIR BRAISED VEAL in center of plate and top with a nugget of SWEETBREAD.
Place a MUSHROOM LEEK SAUSAGE against the veal to the left and a SCALLION CURL to the
right. Lean a PUNTARELLE spear against the veal near the sausage. Pipe 3 dots of MEYER
LEMON EMULSION around the veal. Make a small well in the center of each emulsion dot with
a skewer and fill with a few drops of PARSLEY OIL.
-43-

-44-

BLACK SESAME
YUZU

The seventh course is the first of two sweet courses. Harmonious japanese
flavors are featured in the components: black sesame panna cotta, yuzu gelee,
sour cherry granita, and bitter almond espuma. The black sesame paste, yuzu,
and bitter almond kernels can be puchased online or at asian markets.
All of the components can be made the day before, although the espuma should
be foamed just before serving.

Citrus cavaleriei Citrus sunki

Yuzu originates from China and is widely cultivated in Japan. It is a cross of Ichang
papeda and sour mandarin. The zest is extremely fragrant and the pulp is very acidic.
Substitute a blend of grapefruit, lemon and mandarin for the juice and zest.

-45-

BLACK SESAME

SOUR CHERRY

-46-

BITTER ALMOND

YUZU

-47-

BLACK SESAME PANNA COTTA

YUZU GELEE

430g light cream

70g black sesame paste
30g sugar
45g water
9g gelatin
24 pitted sour cherries, macerated in
shochu for 24 hours and drained

200g yuzu juice

40g sugar
3g microplaned yuzu zest
52g sake
52g water
9g gelatin
Place the yuzu juice, zest, and sugar in a
small pan set over low heat. Heat gently,
stirring, until sugar is dissolved. Remove
from heat.
Place sake and water in a microwave safe
dish and sprinkle the gelatin over the top,
allow to bloom for 5 minutes. Whisk and
heat in microwave for 1 minute until hot.
Whisk again until gelatin is completely
dissolved. if not, return to microwave for 30
seconds.
Add the dissolved gelatin to the yuzu
mixture, stirring gently until well blended.
Allow to cool until barely warm and pour
over cold panna cotta, dividing evenly
among the cups. Chill for at least an hour.

Place the cream, paste, and sugar in small

pan set over low heat. Heat gently, stirring,
until sugar is dissolved and paste is well
blended into the cream. Remove from heat.
Place water in a microwave safe dish and
sprinkle the gelatin over the top, allow to
bloom for 5 minutes. Whisk and heat in
microwave for 1 minute until hot. Whisk
again until gelatin is completely dissolved. if
not, return to microwave for 30 seconds.
Add the dissolved gelatin to the cream
mixture, stirring gently until well blended.
Allow to cool slightly.
Place 3 macerated cherries in each of 8
cups set on a tray. Divide the panna cotta
evenly among the cups. Chill for at least 4
hours.

-48-

BITTER ALMOND ESPUMA

SOUR CHERRY GRANITA

100g bitter almonds kernels

380g water
15g honey
pinch salt
3g soy lecithin

250g sour cherry juice, at room

temperature
2g gelatin
Place 50 g of juice in a microwave safe
dish. Sprinkle gelatin over top and let bloom
for 5 minutes. Whisk and heat in microwave
for 1 minute until hot. Whisk again until
gelatin is completely dissolved. if not, return
to microwave for 30 seconds. Whisk in the
remaining juice and pour mixture into a
shallow bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and
freeze for 4-6 hours, until solid.

Place the almonds, water, sugar, and salt in

a blender and blend for 2 minutes until
smooth. Pass the liquid through a sieve
lined with a double layer of cheesecloth.
Gather and twist the ends of the
cheesecloth and squeeze to express all of
the milk. Transfer the milk to a deep, wide
container. Drop the lecithin in the center. of
milk, cover with the blades of an immersion
blender and blend until to incorporate
lecithin. Chill until service.
When ready to serve, foam the milk with
immersion blender and scoop out foam
with a spoon as it forms.

TO PLATE
With the immersion blender, blend the BITTER ALMOND ESPUMA until a thick layer of
foam forms on top. Remove the BLACK SESAME PANNA COTTA/YUZU GELEE cups from
the refrigerator and the SOUR CHERRY GRANITA from the freezer. Scrape the granita
with a fork and place a spoonful on top of the gelee in each cup. Scoop a spoonful of
espuma and drop on top of the granita in each cup. Serve immediately.

-49-

-50-

CHOCOLATE
BERGAMOT

The final course pairs chocolate with bergamot in a variety of textures and
temperatures, with pear, chestnut, and bay as supporting flavors.
All of the components for this dessert can, and in most cases should, be made in
advance. The bergamot pear ice cream and the batter for the hot chocolate
cake with liquid center can be made 2-3 days ahead., while the bergamot bay
truffles, chocolate meringues, and chestnut caramel can be completed 3-4 days
in advance

Citrus bergamia
Bergamot is native to southern Italy, were it is still widely grown. It is a cross of sour
orange and limetta. The zest is extremely fragrant and the juice is acidic and slightly bitter.
The aroma of the zest is distinct and has no substitute, Bergamot oil can be used in place
of fresh zest and a blend of lemon and grapefruit juice substituted for the pulp.

-51-

CHOCOLATE

PEAR

CHESTNUT

-52-

BAY

BERGAMOT

-53-

LIQUID HOT CHOCOLATE CAKE

CHOCOLATE MERINGUE

226g unsalted butter

226g dark semisweet chocolate. chopped
4 whole eggs
4 whole egg yolks
105g sugar
10g flour

62g bittersweet chocolate, chopped

82g egg whites, at room temperature
1g cream of tartar
25g sugar
18g egg yolks, at room temperature
pinch salt

Place the butter and chocolate in a

microwave proof bowl and microwave on
high for 2 minutes. Stir well and return to
microwave for 30 second intervals until
chocolate is melted and stirred mixture is
smooth. Set aside to cool for 5 minutes.
Place the eggs, yolks and sugar in the bowl.
of an electric mixer. Mix with whisk
attachment on high speed for 5-8 minutes
until light in color and doubled in volume.
Scrape in the chocolate mixture and mix
until incorporated. Sprinkle the flour over
the top and mix for 1 minute.
Generously grease 8 foil muffin tins or
silicone molds. Fill each 3/4 full with batter.
Chill until ready to bake.
When ready to bake, preheat oven to
218C/425F and bake for 7 minutes.
Immediately invert and unmold onto serving
plates.

Melt the chocolate in the microwave or

over a double boiler until smooth and fluid.
Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.
In a mixer with the whisk attachment, whip
the egg whites on high speed until foamy.
Add the cream of tartar and whip to soft
peaks. Slowly and gradually add the sugar
while whipping to stiff peaks.
As soon as the whites are whipped, stir the
yolks into the melted chocolate. Fold in
about 1/4 of the whipped whites to lighten,
then fold in the remainder until white
streaks are no longer visible. Pour meringue
onto a silpat, spreading in an even layer
and dehydrate at 65C/150F for 8-12 hours
until crisp and dry.
Break the meringue into 24 triangular
shards.

-54-

BERGAMOT BAY TRUFFLES

CHESTNUT CARAMEL

220g heavy cream

6g fresh bay leaves, lightly crushed
5g microplaned bergamot zest
220g white chocolate, finely chopped
cocoa powder

82g sugar
22g water
65g heavy cream
100g chestnut puree
Spread the sugar into an even layer in the
bottom of a small saucepan. Pour the water
over the center of the sugar. Do not stir.
Place the pan over medium high heat and
cook for 6-8 minutes, undisturbed, until
the large bubbles subside and sugar turns a
deep amber color. Immediately remove
from heat and carefully add the cream. It
will bubble and sputter violently. When the
bubbling subsides, stir the caramel. While it
is still warm, stir in the chestnut puree. Set
aside at room temperature.

Place heavy cream, bay leaves, and zest in

a small pan and set over medium low heat
and cook until it just breaks a simmer.
Remove from heat, cover tightly and set
aside for 10 minutes to infuse.
Place white chocolate in a bowl. Return pan
to a bare simmer and strain cream through
a sieve directly over the chocolate. Stir
gently for 1 minute, then vigorously until
chocolate is completely melted and
ganache is smooth. Pour into a shallow
bowl and chill for 4-6 hours until firm.
Sift cocoa powder onto a sheet of
parchment. Drop small, irregularly sized
spoonfuls of ganache onto the cocoa
powder. Generously sift additional cocoa
powder over the pieces of ganache. Roll
each piece in surrounding cocoa powder
until well coated

-55-

cook for 30 minutes, until the pears are

very tender. Remove and discard the zest
and vanilla pod. Turn heat up to medium
high and sprinkle the sugar over the top of
pears. Stir and cook until sugar dissolves
and begins to turns pale amber. Remove
from heat and stir in the liquid glucose until
it melts.
Add the half and half to a blender and add
the pear mixture. Blend until smooth.
Transfer contents of blender to a large
bowl. Add the remaining ingredients and
whisk to incorporate. Cover bowl with
plastic wrap and chill for at least 4 hours.
Freeze in an ice cream machine according
to manufacturers directions.
When frozen, spoon ice cream into 8
flexible molds, Pressing well to release air
bubbles. Level tops and freeze solid. Unmold
just before serving.

BERGAMOT PEAR ICE CREAM

30g unsalted butter
413g peeled ,cored, and diced ripe pear
11g bergamot zest strips
1/2 vanilla bean
50g water
42g bergamot juice
80g sugar
45g liquid glucose
300g half and half
150g heavy cream
5g microplaned bergamot zest
1g salt
30g bergamot juice
Melt the butter in a skillet over medium low
heat. Add the pears and zest strips. Scrape
the vanilla bean and add the seeds and
pod to the skillet, followed by the water
and 42g of juice. Stir well, cover tightly and

TO PLATE
With a pastry brush, paint a thick stripe of CHESTNUT CARAMEL down the center of plate. Lay a
strip of acetate that is slightly larger than the stripe directly onto the caramel, pressing very
lightly. Lift one short end of acetate and pull it off the caramel in a quick smooth motion to
create marbled pattern. Invert and unmold a LIQUID HOT CHOCOLATE CAKE along the upper
right of caramel as soon as it comes out of the oven. Set down an unmolded BERGAMOT PEAR
ICE CREAM along the lower left of caramel. Arrange 3 shards of CHOCOLATE MERINGUE on the
plate, followed by 3 BERGAMOT BAY TRUFFLES. Sift confectioners sugar over the cake and
garnish with fresh bergamot (Monarda) leaves. Serve immediately.
-56-

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-57-