B Y
S U S
AN KHALJ E
____________
Eliminate separate
facings for
elegant edges
A l i n i ng tech n i q u e goes cout u re
Cut three
layers of fabric
The shell has three layers: the fashion fa bric, the under
lining, and the lining (in this case, herringbone-weave
raw silk, silk organza, and silk crepe de chine). When you
cut out your fa brics, increase the seam allowances of
the neck and arm holes on your commercial pattern or
muslin from
Vogue 8107
Ys
down later.
conti nued H
T H R EA D S
tel Husqvarna
VIKING
--
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READER SERVICE NO. 1S3
MAST E R C LASS
contin ued
Mark seall1lines
A WORD ABOUT U N D E R LI N I NG
SOFTER FABRICS
of the fabrics.
76
TH R EADS
Staystitch the
curved openings
Machine-staystitch the neckline and armhole edges on the seam lines
of both the fashion-fa bric unit and the l i ning.
Press before
clipping
Press t h e neckline and armhole seam al lowances o n t h e fashion
fa bric unit toward the inside, carefu lly manipu lating the fabric so
that no creases are pressed in. Inching your way, ca refu l ly work the
tip of the iron along the seam line. By creating a memory of the
folded edge in your fa bric before clipping into the seam a llowance,
down to
you d iscou rage the little depressions that tend to a ppear along
cl ipped curved edges. Favor the staystitching to fa l l inside the neck
edge to keep it hidden from the right side.
-\
MAST E R C LASS
"J
c o nt i n u e d
Tack searn
allowances
armhole edges with small, firm fel l stitches, placing them right at the
Understitch
the edges
Prevent the lining from ever peeking around the edge of the fash
Ion fabric by understitching it to the underlining with a prickstitch
(a tiny backstitch). Stitch approximately
Y2
T H R EA D S