Madras locals will tell you Trout Creek climbing area is inaccurately named since the actual Trout Creek is
nowhere in sight of the climbing. In fact, there is no running water near the cliff at all. The local name, Dry
Island, is much more fitting. The climbing area is named Trout Creek for the campground where climbers
must park to approach the crag. Parking at spots other than the campground forces hikers over private land
and could lead to access problems for us as a user group. The mesa above the cliff is used as a hunting
preserve and owned by the original homesteaders of Gateway, the Vibbert family. They are nice people but
understandably do not want climbers walking or driving over their property.
To climb at Trout Creek, park at the Trout Creek Day Use Area in the upstream corner of the campground
(and follow the directions posted at the end of this intro) to approach the climbing. Now if we want to get
technical, Trout Creek campground doesnt sit next to Trout Creek either, instead the creek meets the Lower
Deschutes downstream from the campground where it flows through private land. Private land is important
to respect in this area, even if you are as far from the climbing at Trout Creek as Trout Creek itself. Much of
the private land is not clearly posted so if in doubt, dont venture off the beaten path and please keep a
friendly low profile. The hike from the campground to the cliff takes about 45 minutes at a normal pace.
Dont forget to bring plenty of water, its a dry island up there.
The columns will be around a long time after we are all gone and so will any changes made to the rock.
Whether drilling, hammering, chipping or chopping, alterations permanently transform the true identity of
natural lines into something else. Defacing the rock to adjust a routes difficulty (or its severity) not only
changes the integrity of the climb, it steals the futures potential. With difficulty standards increasing every
year, and more climbers heading to the cliff, Trout Creeks hardest climbs and boldest possibilities are ever
closer to getting ticked. If you do something new or have information to help shed more accurate light on any
part of the crags history, let us all know by sharing it in the guidebook located inside the crag bucket. All
updates and corrections are written into the crag copy of the guide. More importantly the crag bucket contains
a simple first aid kit and it is also the best spot to leave small lost and found items or steel carabiners you would
like to donate (see page #11). So far, it seems to be working well but dont let fixed gear (or any info in a book)
trump your common sense when it comes to staying safe. For many reasons, todays good beta may change
tomorrow. Legally, some things cannot go without saying, so CLIMB AT YOUR OWN RISK.
I want to extend a huge thank you to the climbers who have contributed photos or unwittingly posed for them to
make this guide more visual. Also, thanks to all the people who have donated steel carabiners, trail work tools
and, most importantly, their time into making the place safer and more user-friendly.
Cheers,
Jeff Wenger, 7/2010
TROUT C REEK
A BOUT
THE
AREA
P GS 12-31
P GS 32-41
P GS 42-43
P GS 43-46
P GS 3-11
P GS 46-50
( A N D OT H ER I N FO)
P G S 51-59
Photos credits from left to right: Last Row: Michael Dake, Dan Higgins; 2nd Last Row:, Micha Tannenbaum, Matthew Battarbee;
Next Row Up: Jesse Huey; Additional shots on this page, Jeff Wenger Collection; Page #8: Aspect/Season Photo, Jesse Brown;
Cover: Cody Scarpella climbing Gold Rush during a February sunset , Jeff Wenger; All Other Uncredited photos: Jeff Wenger Collection
A Brief H istory
The stretch of water from Warm Springs to Trout Creek is a blue ribbon section of the
Deschutes. World Class fishing along with scenic beer-in-hand style rafting attracts a steady
stream of visitors during the warmer months each year. Over the years, many jaws have
dropped open and many eyes have bulged at the site of proud, clean, golden columns in view
for a good portion of the float. From the trout opener in April through the falls famous
steelhead run, the cliff line west of Trout Creek is probably discovered a hundred times a week.
Not surprisingly, loads of climbers have taken note of this awesome cliff. In particular it was
Madras local, Bill Ramsey who was most likely the first person to explore the vertical climbing
at Trout Creek. Ramsey had already solo top-roped many of the crags plums prior to
convincing partners like Alan Watts to venture away from Smiths tuft for a look. With the
Smith-birthed sport climbing revolution in full-swing (and rattlesnakes in season) one look was
enough for Watts. Watts was already busy in Terrebonne spearheading the development that
soon put Smith Rock on the short list of top international crags. Still, word of a Crack World
north of Madras soon surfaced and other Smith Rock guns like John Rich, Brooke Sandahl,
Stevie Byrne, Chris Grover, and a few of their compadres, such as crack star Hidetaka Suzuki,
visited the cliff a handful of times in the mid-eighties. These guys probably ticked more of
Trouts classics than they can now recall and many other hardmen and women surely checked
the area out prior to the more recent development.
Its healthy to view the history of any and all naturally protected climbing with a bit of a
mystery. Who knows, a number of unidentified climbers armed with passive gear, or none at all,
may have paid this area quiet visits long before even Ramseys exploits. Jack Tackle and friends
in the 70s perhaps? Hopefully more information will soon come out of the woodwork. If we go
way back, the archaeological record has confirmed rumors that Deschutes Sahaptin speakers
(who sent hard) once frequented the area we know as Trout Creek today.
After getting the go-ahead from a few modern day pioneers, I replaced the old ! inch bolts and
faded webbing anchors they had left behind in the eighties and began picking away at the
remaining lines on the main wall with Colleen Brennan, John Rich, Jamie Wenger, Marty
Hickey, Michael Pruden, Mike Tsoi, Jack Herrick and Darryl Nakahira. Others were exploring
the cliff too, with the most notable development led by Gavin Ferguson, Brett Yost, Dave
McCrae, David Potter, Karl Sutton and later Pat McCarthy. Within a couple years, the area
stirred up some local attention. Most people shared the psych of what Trout Creek offers while
some hated the sustained, physical nature of the climbing. Regardless word kept spreading.
Paranoid the artes would get bolted or someone would include Trout Creek in a publication
that would bring the masses, in 2002 I threw together an underground guide with a general
message of keeping the crag on the down-low. It seemed to many of us, that if the area stayed
quiet it would be just plain better, on several levels. Of course, this reasoning was largely
selfish; we wanted the climbing and the view and the experience all to ourselves. I actually used
the guide as a way to spread the words, Dont spread the word and pointedly did not include
driving directions, except to express the importance of NOT trespassing over private land.
This pretense built into a guidebook was arguably dumb and that argument was made. Some
people flat out disagreed with the mindset of keeping things quiet. To them, our semi-covert
message of Come on out, tell your friends about Trout Creek, but dont tell the world! was
problematic and sent the wrong message. A new message was soon delivered. In early 2007,
Utah Dave McRrae
wrote a piece for a local
magazine titled, The
Best Hand Crack Ever:
Blowing the Lid off Trout
Creek, with a version of
the same article
running in Climbing
Magazine less than a
year later. The articles
brought the crag into
another realm of
exposure and use.
Huge crowds followed.
Okay maybe not.
Things have actually
remained fairly quiet
except for spring/fall
weekends and the
occasional party.
Jamie Wenger on Gold Rush
2007 ushered in another wave of development at Trout Creek as climbers finally realized that
many of the routes previously overlooked as too hard were actually quite possible. The uberpsyched Matt Dread Coty, Pat McCarthy, Phillip Hranicka, Chris Garner, Micha Tannenbaum,
Cody Scarpella, myself and others started trying and sometimes succeeding on the most obvious of
these lines. In April of 2008, Will Stanhope visited Trout Creek for a few hours and casually added
two of the crags best finger cracks, Winter Sustenance (5.12) and Full Clip (5.12+), to the established
routes at the Main Walland both were sent on-sight! We immediately realized two things: 1.
Will could climb really hard and 2. The rest of us needed to step-up to the remaining lines wed
been staring at for so long. While our realizations did not yield a multitude of hard on-sight FAs,
we regularly confirmed that the small gear placements would hold really big falls on the areas
basalt. Occasionally somebody held on to the top and over time many more excellent lines were
added to the Main Wall, mostly in the 5.11 to 5.12 range. Pat McCarthy and Marsha Hamilton
were particularly active at this time, especially at The Cool Wall where they established several
quality routes between 5.10 and 5.11+. All said, thirty new routes were put up in 2007-08.
Throughout the activity of 2008, and stretching well into 2009, a standout route now called The
May Fly trumped most of the FA action at Trout Creek. This exciting climb was named for several
reasons, not least of which being the huge air logged in May of 09 as a few climbers gunned for
the FA. In late summer, Cody Scarpella succeeded on it and at about the same time, several of us
started trying the finger cracks between Full Clip and Gold Rush. Tommy Caldwell came close to
sending one of these new lines just left of Gold Rush (listed as #9b potential and pictured on page
#8) over three days of great conditions that October. His trip also included an inspired first
onsight of The May Fly, confirming a grade range of 5.12+ to 5.13-. By February of 2010, Scarpella
added Reservation Blues (another 5.12+) to the long list of Main Wall classics. At this rate, the near
future will yield several more hard lines. Check the crag guide for updates.
Driving D irections
Dogs
If youre thinking about bringing canine pals, make sure
they climb hard. Pinballing down into the talus is a real
and dangerous concern for dogs and weve seen it happen
more than once. Despite our best intentions as owners,
some dogs hate the experience of Trout Creeks bouldery
base. This is not the time to abandon pets with a, Theyll
be fine attitude. Not every climber is a dog person and
they shouldnt have to deal with our pets because we, as
owners, are not doing so ourselves. If your dog is having
trouble, please dont leave it alone. Unfortunately,
rattlesnakes pose another huge danger to dogs in the
summer months. Rattler vaccinations are available for
dogs and it is advised to carry Benadryl as a precaution
for people or pets. Two dogs were bitten in 2009 alone!
Projects
See a line that inspires you? Go for it! All climbs
are open and fair game whether they have been
done, attempted, abandoned or ignored.
Remember, please think before drilling and if you
do something new let us all know by writing it in
the crag copy of the guide at the staging area.
Photo above: Pat McCarthy on the FA of
Out Ridin Fences, Photo: Dan Higgins.
Photo right: Tommy Caldwell attempting one of
the many immaculate unclimbed routes on Trout
Creeks Main Wall.
Camping
The Trout Creek Campground has a fine selection of riverside camping. Nearly all sites are
equipped with picnic tables and fire pits with easy access to well-maintained outhouses. Costs
range from $8-35 a night depending on the season and whether or not you are in a single or
group site. See details below. Plans are in the works for facility upgrades but at the time of
writing, there is no potable water at the campground. The area sees considerable traffic during
fishing season. Then, from mid-Nov. to April, weve got it all to ourselves.
Aspect/S eason
The Main Wall faces west and
wraps to the northeast. The west
facing rock comes into the sun
between 12:30 and 2:00
depending on the season and
day light savings. The Cool
Wall faces north and only gets
sun in the summertime. The
northerly aspects have lichen
growth while the Main Wall is
naturally clean.
Temperatures on average are quite similar to
Smith Rock, which means youll typically be
seeking the shade (or more likely the river) by
early afternoon in the summer and shivering
until after 1:00pm in the winter. Spring and fall
offer consistently good temps but warm winter
days create the best conditions. On the other
hand, cold winter days can make you wonder
why youre up there. In the rare event of snow,
getting around at the base is VERY sketchy.
The nature of the base definitely adds another
dimension to Trout Creeks already isolated
position and is, by a landslide, the most
dangerous aspect of visiting Trout Creek.
The Approach
Park in the Day Use Area, located at the southwest
(upstream) end of the campground and walk
upstream to access the river road past a cattle guard.
A direct approach to the Northern End is visible on
the left (see page #32) allowing the Main Walls
talus field to be avoided.
The Normal Main Wall Approach: Walk 20-25 minutes upstream and cross a second cattle
guard. Continue two hundred yards along the road to the first weakness in the hillside. Leave
the road here and follow a trail up the short rise to the left. The bulk of the climbing at Trout
Creek is now clearly in view.
Approach the Main Wall from the hillside to the SW (right) by tending west to avoid talus,
following a well worn trail through two tiers of meadows and then up the steep(er than it looks)
hillside. Hug the base of the wall (and check out the SW Corners wild formations) as you step
left to gain the talus field of the Main Wall. It takes 20-25 minutes to walk the trail leaving the
river road to the climbs of the Main Wall at a normal pace.
If heading to the Cool Wall add 15-20 minutes. For an alternative approach to The Cool Wall see
page #46; again, see page #30 for the direct approach to The Northern End. The Main Wall
approach is 45-50 minutes from the day use parking area at a normal pace.
If you hug the trail next to the cliff the first route youll come to is the dirty little ass-kicker,
Napoleon, on the satellite columns toward the right side of the cliff. For Trout Creek, this is
a sideshow route and youll likely be lured toward the longer, cleaner lines to the left.
Shasta (70)
Electric Chair (52)
U2 (28)
Napoleon (1)
Logis tics
If you choose to drop in from above, it will be a pain in the ass. Youll need to set up a natural
anchor, rap with two ropes unless youre hauling around a 70 meter rope, set directionals, deal
with rope drag and avoid the snakes (see page #9). Due to access issues, there have been
considerable efforts taken to avoid placing bolts on top. Trout Creek is a lead climbing area by
design. Ramseys old TR bolts from the 80s are still there but should be avoided. All other
existing anchors at the crag were placed in 2001 or later and get you back to the ground with a
single 60-meter rope. However, the lines that end near the rim come in right at 100 feet so watch
the ends of the rope! The JR Extension anchor (#14b) is particularly precarious when lowering
with a 60m, scramble up the starting blocks of #14 as a precaution, better yet, use a 70m rope.
10
For safety and convenience, nearly all anchors are equipped with lowering carabiners on chains.
This makes for a faster way down and people never have to untie to thread the rope. The most
popular routes have steel carabiners, the others are aluminum. For those that feel uneasy about
lowering off gear other than their own, use the anchors as you normally would but please leave
the carabiners in place for the rest of us. Donations are appreciated and can be left in the crag
bucket (more on donations on the next page).
Being T here
With a position high above the Deschutes River, the crag provides sweeping views of the
Central Oregon landscape and a gorge framed viewing of Mt Jefferson. The natural lines, like
the scenery, are exceptional and offer a particularly high concentration of classics at 5.10 and
harder. For the most part, the columns come together to form spectacularly sustained inside
corners and stem boxes. Occasionally the angles produce splitter-like results, so bring a desert
rack or be prepared to run it out. Trout Creeks texture tends to be abrasive, which means its
great for your feet but rough on your skin. Most climbers choose to tape.
Some of you may notice a couple changes to the guide as additional information about the crags
history has come to light. Difficulty ratings have also been adjusted here and there (see The
Grading Game on page #7). The biggest and most relevant differences have to do with the
number of established routes, which is over five times that of the original guide.
11
The Main Wa ll
Trouts Main Wall is a small area in beautifully big setting.
As youll soon discover, the majority of the routes here are classic.
Gold Rush and J.R. Token will be the obvious hand cracks that come in
view as you start boulder hopping at the west end of the Main Wall.
Once at the cliff, most climbers drop their packs at the staging area of fallen
columns roughly in line with the climb Gold Rush (#9). Poke around the
staging area and you will locate a community bucket with a crag copy of
this guide, a pen, a first aid kit, and few other items. The crag copy of the
guide is useful to check for route updates and is the best way to add your
own additions. If you are interested in donating steel carabiners, tape,
or other climbing essentials, the crag bucket is a good spot to do so.
Also $ donations to Trout Creek are tax deductible (see page #58).
All routes on the Main Wall are described from right to left
starting at Napoleon on page #14. Climbing on this page
Jesse Brown on the Gold Rush extension, Dame el Oro.
JR Token (14)
Gold Rush (9)
Fingerlings (39)
12
1. Napolean 5.10+
A short, pumpy climb thats worth checking out. Scramble down toward
#2 to get off or continue (5.6) to the top.
Gear to 3 (No Anchor)
1a. The Approach 5.9
Climb the short shaded hand crack and
beware of loose rock. Carefully step left
ASAP to avoid wider climbing above.
Pro to 3 (No Anchor)
2. Out Ridin Fences 5.11+
The corner systems this route ties together
create an excellent route. Scramble up to
the belay from right to left. Climb the
obvious aesthetic line that tends right.
Pro to 2
3. Time Bomb 5.11 (or 5.9+)
This route is located in an unnerving
position that wont always be around. The
5.11 start climbs fingers up to a stance left
of the pillar. The moderate (5.9+)
scrambles in past #4. Either way youll
soon find yourself in a precarious spot.
Finish up the left crack to the top.
Pro to 4 mostly small (No Anchor)
13
6. Two Step Left 5.10Step 1: Gain the pillar on the left side of this
awkward partner. An off-set lesson.
Step 2: Same as #3
Pro to 3
14
15
9. Gold Rush 5.10The Main Walls most popular classic ! for good reason.
Wide hands to perfect hands to a classic finish. Stop at the
first set of anchors or continue on up the face for #9a.
Pro to 3
9a. Dame El Oro (Gold Rush Extension) 5.11
What is even better than Gold Rush? Continuing above
Gold Rush! Step up and right from the #9 anchors on
exposed edges and pockets and then follow the vertical
seam to the rim. See photo on page #13.
Pro for #9 + gear to "
9b. Potential
Just left of Gold Rush is a very difficult line just awaitin
In 10/09 Caldwell came close. Whos up?
10. Hip to Toe 5.11+
Three lines left of Gold Rush lies a shallow, stem box that
delivers a waist-down pump worthy of its namesake. Long
overlooked (protection seemed to seam-out) until a sudden
flurry of ground-up attempts exposed awesome, reasonably
protected climbing the whole way. Classic.
Pro to "
11. Unknown U1 (AKA The Ruiner) 5.10
With a loose looking section, this climb was ignored for years. Despite appearances, its a
tremendous route and the loose looking flake is surprisingly solid. Stiff for the grade.
Pro to 3
12. Monster 5.12- (or Landing a Monster 5.10)
Start off the lower block leading to JR Token. Expect HARD locks down low. Consensus has
brought this one in well beyond its original grade of 5.11. For the excellent 5.10 version,
Landing a Monster (#12a) start on #11 and connect left via the obvious #12a horizontal break.
Pro to 4
13. The River Wide 5.9
A journey both wide and deep. Youll go through all the sizes to borrow up toward the surface.
Start off the higher block leading to JR Token and follow the consistently widening crack. Same
anchor as #12.
Pro to 6+(Much larger pro needed if staying in left crack)
14. JR Token 5.10
A token JR climb and an all time classic! The crux section spits-off many a capable 5.10 climber.
Scramble-up the two blocks to begin. Difficulties slowly build as the crack narrows. Many
people find this route more classic and less grueling than Gold Rush.
Pro to 2
14a. Immortal Illusions 5.12 R
A bold line that was done ground-up. Climb JR Token, pull the roof and boulder to the top. Gear
is nonexistent for all but the easy top section.
Pro: A strong head (to 2 for the gear anchor)
14b. JR Token Extension 5.10
Balance left and power through a short section of quality finger locks to a face climbing and
corner crack finish. A great way to drop a rope over #15 or #16.
Pro for JR + gear to "
16
Jesse and Tami Brown enjoying a quiet afternoon at The Main Wall
17
18
15. Potential
This line is considerably easier than #17 or #18 but, at the time of writing, it has not seen an FFA.
16. Reservation Blues 5.12+
More powerful and much more
sustained than the popular #20.
Step right off the block unto very
thin locks and keep something
in reserve for the endurance
crux at # height. Except for the
smaller start and moderate runout finish, this route protects
well with blue TCU sized gear.
Pro to !
17-18. Potential
Directly behind and left from the
block lie two stunning lines that
will someday get done.
19. Full Clip 5.12+
Off-set tips to rattley fingers for
what will feel like forever. This
route is a test piece for proud FA
style. Sent ground up, on sight.
Bring a full clip of thin crack
arsenal. Killer.
Pro to 1
20. Winter Sustenance 5.12
The most moderate of the test
pieces to the right and still one
of the toughest (and best) pure
finger cracks at the crag. This
climb sees plenty of TR action
from the #21 anchor.
Pro to "
21. The Space Between 5.10+
None of the individual jams will
stop you but the space between
P HOTO: W ALLY F OX
Cody Scarpella on the FA of Reservation Blues
them just might. Enjoy a beautiful
view of columnar architecture as you race the stemming pump. If you find this one too easy,
step left to #22. Head either right or left at the anchor to access top ropes for #19/20, or #22.
Pro to 1
22. Space Mission 5.11
Another crag classic. This advanced version of #21 is characterized by a tough stemming section
down low before gaining better jams and airy positions high on the route. If youre reasonably
good at stemming, this might be the Trout Creeks most straightforward 5.11. And if youre still
not pumped, step left to #23!
Pro to 1
23. Purple Pinky Eater 5.12An exceptional line and a stout lead. Moderate double hands converge into a tiny crack. From
there, high-tech, cryptic stem work eventually reopens to jams and a great finish. So named for
the seam's appetite for purple TCU's and tiny pinky-first "locks". Dont make this your first
jaunt into 5.12- or youll be eaten.
Pro to 2
19
TO:
COLLEEN BRENNAN
26. Fissuremen 5.10Get your grovel on. A bit on the dirty side but getting cleaner with every ascent. It is possible to
top rope part of #27 from the anchors!expect about 5.12- if you stop at the crossing.
Pro to 4
27. The May Fly 5.12+
One of Trouts most sought after hard routes. Climb fingers with ascending difficulty to a burly
crossing. Make the move left and lieback the thin and committing crux section. Hit the jug or
you will fly. Continue on technical ground to an anchor above the grey overhang. Awesome!
Pro to "
Andy Wyatt setting up for the crux section of The May Fly
20
21
35. Tawtnuk Tiicham (Medicine Land) 5.12Technical stemming, powerful locks, great positions up high: another classic. Charmed with
straightforward protection and good shakes. Stay left and eventually merge with Red Alerts
face climbing finish. Named in honor of the early Sahaptin speaking Trout Creek locals.
Pro to 1
22
36. (Unknown) U4 5.11Two separate, high quality lines can be led to the anchors but the uncontrived classic uses them
both. Another one of Trout Creeks best routes. Hyper-flexible, tall climbers find it a bit on the
soft side. For the flexibly and/or vertically challenged, it feels unrelentingly stiff at 5.11-.
Pro to 1
37. Chinese Chicken 5.10Prepared many imaginable ways and none of them fat free. Creative 5.10 climbing and a good
intro to the areas off-widths. OW technique can be mixed with stemming and finger sizes.
Pro to 5 (Can be protected with small gear on left)
38. Fun Soup 5.10
A satisfying combination of many fun styles. Look for the deepest box to start off the block.
Sustained climbing leads to a good rest and an excellent finish. Save a small piece for the top.
Pro to 2
39. Fingerlings 5.11- (See photo on next page)
A nemesis route for many climbers ! if you cant reach the first jams of the tiny crack,
bouldering in from the left makes the bottom much harder (5.12-), better to just stack some
rocks. The rest of the steep off-set creates classic locking jams almost the whole way.
Pro to 3
23
24
25
46. California Weakender 5.11One of Trout Creeks best for the grade. Originally called 5.10! Most climbers find it stiff, even
at its current rating. A bouldery start leads to technical jamming before hitting the weakend
ledge. The stem box above features wide climbing and pulls a roof up top. (See opposite photo)
Pro to 5 (Possible to use smaller pro in the wide section)
47. Lou Dog 5.10
Bold, fun and tough: Lou. Cautiously gain the leaning column, most parties go left. Jam the
aesthetic fist to OW crack and easy corner system to the top. Great blue collar climbin.
Pro to 4 (No Anchor)
48. Potential
Very thin gear sketchy positions.
49. Off Width Your Head 5.9
A moderate journey into OW climbing that is best done as a two pitch route. Diagonal left to
keep the climbing wide and finish on #51.
Pro to 6
50. Horse With No Name 5.10+
Climb #49 and continue straight up the stem box with thin gear. Exit out left on steep ground
and finish on the more moderate #51.
Pro to 4
51. Moki Steps 5.8+
Start by caving in left from below #47 and chimneying toward the light. Fun and best climbed
in three pitches. Possible to start right of #52. Save small gear up high on the last pitch.
Pro to 3 (No Anchor)
26
PHOTO: B EN H ERNDON
Another classic finish, Craig Pope pulling the final moves of California Weakender
27
28
29
63. Bushwhacker 5.10Youll see the bush thats been whacked (and keeps growing back) on the right hand side of this
worthy box. Stop at the anchor or carry on like the FA party via easy ground up the visible
summit crack to the top. Many climbers find this one a bit stiff for the grade.
Pro to 3
64. Diminishing Returns 5.10+
One of the best routes on this part of the Main Wall. Climb the nice stem box to an anchor on
the right. This aptly named route diminishes many peoples returns and stymies some attempts
right at the chains.
Pro to 3
30
31
32
65. Girls with Chim(n)ay 5.10Enter the chasm just left of #64 and chimney up into moderate Trout Creek terrain with good
gear. Interesting positions lead to the obvious constriction and a classic finger crack finish. Lead
on to the rim or step right to the #64 anchor. Rarely done but well worth the effort.
Pro to 5
66. Sleepy Hallow 5.10A wake-up call for the aspiring 5.10- leader. Thoughtful climbing on a giant hollow section of
rock leads to solid jamming around the roof (left) to an anchoror continue to the rim on easier
ground like the first ascent party.
Pro to 2
67. The Gods Must Be Angry 5.10Scramble up the block to begin. A few insecure moves give way to hidden holds and good jams
on this popular double crack route. Named for two separate supernatural storms, two days in a
row, that challenged the first ascent. The anchor is placed just to the left of the route.
Pro to 2
33
34
Most of the climbs on The Prow go free from mid-5th class to the 5.8 range. There are a couple
harder onesconsider this area adventure land. Bring long runners or break the climbs into
two pitches. Due to the loose rock youll likely encounter up high, these easy routes are some of
the more dangerous at the cliff. Youll notice a few more lines than the corresponding numbers
(#70-#77) indicate. Yes, they have all been done, see the FRA info at the end of this text.
Of all the nearby moderates to choose from, Route 66 (now listed as #75) is done most often and
has the reputation as being the coolest line on The Prow. Coming in at 5.7 (right off the ground)
this is one to bring your non-climber friends up to check out the view from on top. Again, tread
lightly up high as not to pull something off and bring long runners to prevent rope drag.
35
36
37
*Most parties in search of classic moderates head straight to this part of the cliff (Routes #83-#100).
83. Talkin It Clean 5.10Walk the talk. Technical thin hands to
fingers leads to a thought provoking finish.
This is currently the cleanest offering of the
routes close by. The shorter length,
straightforward protection and low angle
make it one of the crags most popular routes
at the grade.
Pro to 2
84. Ol Dirty Bastard 5.10+
A fun, moderate crack suddenly turns into a
thin little bastard. Expect problematic
stemming above small gear placements.
Despite the name, the route is reasonably
clean and despite the grade, it shuts most
people down.
Pro to 2
Talkin it Clean FA
85. Deparado 5.11Similar in style to ODB above
with excellent climbing
throughout. Somehow we
bypassed this route until the
summer of 2009. Bring small
gear for the upper section and
use everything to your
advantage, especially the low
angle. A great route that
might be a bit easier than #84.
Hmmm.
Pro to 2
86. Buried Alive 5.10
Those in search of a true
circus route, step right up!
Unbelievably, this route was
done prior to the classic #85.
Not surprisingly, it was on a
dare. Step down and to the
left of the pictured block
where it is possible to
scramble up into a chamber
room where lies a nice hand
crack. Climb hands in an odd
position, place a high piece
and down climb until it is
possible to squeeze out into
precarious squirming (see
page #55 FA thumbnail).
Dont take this route lightly, a
fall in the wrong place could
land the leader onto the pillar.
Pro to 6 (at least)
An anchor was placed servicing #85
and #86 after the photo was taken. PHOTO: CASEY COLLINS
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94. Haunchos De Vomitos 5.10Full squirm value. Burrow into the chimney and then escape before the constriction makes you
sick. Follow the thin crack connecting good horizontals and step right to the #93 anchor or
venture on up to the rim.
Pro to 5
95. Salad Daze 5.9
Start just left of #94 on top of the short pillar. Climb the obvious wide hand crack that turns into
twin cracks about half way up. Follow these cracks until it is possible to traverse left across
horizontals up to the Rodeo Crack anchor. A great climb thats getting cleaner by the month.
Pro to 3
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98. Wheres Noah Vibbert 5.11The most sustained route on The Northern End and one of the finest climbs at Trout Creek!
Technical, off-size jamming eventually turns to fingers, tips, and arte pinches before stepping
right to the #97 anchor. It is possible to bail early to #97 dodging the upper difficulties but this
finish misses out on the stellar final moves of the true line. Stay straight for the real thing.
Pro to 1
99. Ninjinski 5.10Ring locks on great low angle climbing. Enjoy quality climbing all the way to the rim.
Currently dirty up top, but well worth the effort. Be very aware of loose rock toward the upper
section and save gear for an anchor.
Pro to 1
100. Underground Up 5.10
As the name suggests, you can actually descend 15 or 20 feet at the base of this route to get the
very most out of the line. Like its neighbors, enjoy great low angle jamming and stem work.
Pro to 1
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Castle Wa ll-North
Castle Wall sits opposite the SW Corner of the Main Wall. Approach from the SW Corner.
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44
Castle Wa ll-Front
You dont have to spend much time at this part of Castle Wall to realize the inherent dangers of
loose, balanced columns jumbled around the base and leaning against the wall. This is a sketchy
place to go rock climbing, but for those seeking an adventure outing it has a few intriguing
climbs and potential for a few more.
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112. Potential
The upper dihedral looks awesome getting there looks to be bold.
113. The Watchtower 5.10Be aware of loose dinner plates as the columns peter out on this worthy route. There are a
couple alternative ways to get to the upper face crack.
Pro to 1 (No Anchor)
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Approach 1. Veer right at the base of the steep hillside leading up to the Main Wall (see page
10) and then connect your way to the crags right side by avoiding the largest sections of talus
and cruising straight up the steep bowl pictured above. Once you reach the wall, head right
until you locate Chick Magnet. Approach time is about 1 hour.
Approach 2. Stay on the river road for 10 minutes past the approach trail to the main wall.
After passing the campground, tend left to gain the bench. From here the steep hillside leads
directly to a talus field at the right side of the cliff. Like Approach #1, hiking time is about 1
hour.
114. Webelos Gone Wild 5.10In the middle of 07 a single bolt anchor appeared on a line formerly listed as potential. It is
located several hundred feet left of #115. Another bolt should be added soon. No photo.
Pro to 3 (Single bolt anchor?)
Left side Cool Wall Potential
There are still several moderate cracks leftbut they probably will be equipped soon.
About 100 feet left of Chick Magnet, it is possible to scramble up to a ledge with four varied
routes to choose from. #118 is a standout Cool Wall classic. See the next page.
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115. 4 Letter Word 5.10Take something bigger than a 3 piece or (like the FA) you'll be saying four letter words in
addition to wide. FYI, dirt is also an operative four letter word for this route.
Pro to 5
116. Beauty in Dirt 5.10+
Finger locks low on the route, a loose block midway, hands to finish. This dirty yet worthy line
shares the anchor with #115. Despite the dirt, enjoy good climbing.
Pro to 2
117. Potential
A mean looking OW will share the #116 anchor.
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49
50
51
58.
59.
60.
61.
62.
63.
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.
69.
70.
71.
72.
73-77.
78.
79.
80.
81.
82.
83.
84.
85.
86.
87.
88.
89.
90.
91.
92.
93.
94.
95.
96.
97.
98.
99.
100.
101.
102.
103.
104.
105.
106.
107.
108.
109.
110.
111.
112.
113.
114.
115.
116.
117.
118.
119.
120.
121.
123.
124.
125.
126.
127.
128.
129.
130.
131.
132.
PHOTO: D AN HIGGINS
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Routes By Rating
We have painstakingly extrapolated data from climbers of all shapes, sizes and abilities in order
to create a hierarchical route list. The most sought after lines in each grade are listed top down
by popularity, not by difficulty. These recommendations are based on carefully measured
exclamations ranging from, Wow, thats one of the best damn routes Ive ever done! to This route
sucks! How could anyone call this monotonous climbing classic!. Problem is, those two quotes were
shouted from the same route on the same day. If grades are subjective, recommendation ratings
are nothing short of style-bias opinions but since we stayed away from a star system, the list
below might be a good place to start.
Obviously, wandering around and seeing what sucks you in or repels you is the best way to
pick a climb. And while theres no substitute for intuition or good old fashion peer-pressure
when deciding what to actually lead, those searching (for or trying to avoid) certain types of
climbing should also check out the general style references to the right of each climb. Nearly half
the pitches between 5.10 to 5.12+ could be in contention for the crags best lines depending on
what style or difficulty you are after.
TH=THIN (SMALLER THAN HANDS)
H=HANDS TO FISTS
OW=OFF-WIDTH, FACE CLIMBING
CH=CHIMNEY
DC=DOUBLE CRACKS
F=FACE CLIMBING
V=VARIED (several styles)
#108
#107
#74-77
#70
#71
#79
#104
DC
DC
V
DC
DC
OW
TH
5.8+
Usual Suspects
The Northern Thrown
Moki Steps
Rock Around The Block
Slim Pickins (5.8+R)
Great Googlie Mooglie
#90
#93
#51
#106
#31
#87
H-TH
DC, H
V
H
CH
V
5.9
Salad Daze
The Beer Float
Billy is Gay
Mr. Green Jeans
Plumbline
Electric Chair
Change Over
Off Width Your Head
Bedside Manner
T-Handles
Middle Earth
The Pauper
Castlevania
Slide Show
#95
#89
#125
#88
#72
#52
#93
#49
#96
#82
#78
#109
#110
#81
H, DC
TH-OW
DC
OW
TH, DC
TH, DC
CH, H
OW
V
H
OW-CH
V
V
TH
5.9+
U3
Two Step Right /Left (5.10-)
Time Bomb (higher start)
Zippin your Shin Skin
The Chimney Sweep
#24
#5, #6
#3
#83
#80
DC, CH
H, DC
CH
V
OW-CH
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5.10-
Gold Rush
Talkin it Clean
Sleepy Hallow
Chinese Chicken
Lively Up Yourself
Bushwhacker
The Gods Must Be Angry
The River Wide
Adipose
Girls With Chim(n)ay
Haunchos de Vomitos
Fissuremen
4 Letter Word
The Watchtower
Stormin the Castle
Underground Up
#9
#83
#66
#31
#69
#64
#67
#13
#55
#65
#94
#26
#116
#113
#111
#100
H
TH
DC
DC
TH-H
DC
DC
TH-CH
OW
CH-TH
CH-TH
V
V
V
V
TH
5.10
Pan Handlin
JR Token/JR Extention
Wonder Twins
Mr. Squiggles
Fun Soup
U1
Muffin Top
Chick Magnet
Rodeo Crack
Ninjinski
The Guillotine
Glory Bulge
Lefty Loosey
Wengerbanger
Landing a Monster
Lou Dog
Non Servum
Promise Not to Stop
Gas Chamber
Buried Alive
Merle Kicks Ass
#8a
#14/#14b
#41
#24
#38
#11
#32
#120
#97
#99
#54
#123
#68
#30
#12a
#47
#131
#128
#53
#86
#126
H-TH
H-TH
V
TH-H
DC
DC, H
OW
TH-H
OW
TH
V
DC
DC
TH-H
TH-H
H-TH
V
DC
OW
H-OW
OW
5.10+
#21
#40
#33
#25
#28
#64
#44
#84
#50
#116
#92
#102
#1
#6a
DC
TH-OW
V
DC
DC
DC
DC
TH
V
V
DC-TH
V
TH
H-F
5.11-
#98
#36
#39
TH
DC
TH
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5.11-
Pearls Jam
California Weakender
Double Trouble (5.11 to the top)
Desparado
#124
#46
#4
#85
TH
V
DC
TH
5.11
Space Mission
Dame El Oro
Steelhead
Bood Guky
Gateway
Geologic Time
The Way of the Bull
Time Bomb
Utah Sucks
#22
#9a
#62
#122
#60
#56
#119
#3
#101
DC
TH-F
DC
TH
TH-DC
TH
TH-H
TH, CH
V
5.11+
Midas Touch
Hip to Toe
Out Ridin Fences
Straightway
Dry the Rain
The Gambler
Redd Alert
#8
#10
#2
#59
#118
#121
#29
TH-V
DC
TH, DC
TH
TH
TH-F
TH-V
5.12-
Alchemy
Purple Pinky Eater
Out of the Question
Monster
The Martian Chronicles
Tawtnuk Tiicham
The Right Way
#8
#23
#45
#12
#57
#30
#58
TH
DC-TH
TH
TH-H
TH
TH
TH
5.12
Winter Sustenance
Immortal Illusions (R)
#20
#14a
TH
TH-F
5.12+
#27
#16
#19
TH
TH
TH
(Continued)
Most of the routes at Trout Creek are, in some way, worth stepping up to try but the routes
listed on this page are climbs worth aspiring to. Despite the grade, so is the climb below, Muffin
Top ! proof positive for thinking of the grades as suggestions only.
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$20.00 + shipping
$3.00 (As close to free as Lulu allows)
Donations
Printed guidebooks are marked up slightly and any/all profits are considered donations
that go directly back into the upkeep of the crag. If you would like to donate steel
carabiners for anchors, please leave them in the crag bucket. It is also possible to make
tax deductible donations through COR (Central Oregon Rocks). Please contact me
through the lulu site if you are interested in making a donation. Thanks to everyone who
has already donated money, gear, time and energy into the crag especially Casey, Gavin,
Sarah, Pat, Marsha, Lucas, Haydar, Greg, Cody, Wally, Micha, Philip, Ken K!, Chris H., Chris G.,
Max, Thad, John, Nate, Jamie, Ann Marie, Michael, Colleen, Mike, Jack, Jesse, Tami, Coty,
Eric, Craig, Ben, Adrian, Joyce, Esther, Andy, my students, Redpoint Climbers Supply and
many others.
Look for postings at Redpoint in regard to trail work weekends, etc. See you out there.
Jeff
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If there is an
Emergency
Get the First Aid Kit out of the crag bucket
located at The Main Wall staging area.
If Medical attention is needed and
you cannot get back to your vehicle:
1. Call 911: You may need to get on top of the crag
for reception. Do not leave the injured person
alone unless it is absolutely necessary. If you
dont have a cell phone the farmhouse is about a
ten minute run. Access the top by wrapping
around the SW Corner and up the hillside. Follow
a faint private road directly on top of the hill to the
paved road, the house is on the right.
2. Transport: If you can safely move the injured
person, get them to the top of the crag and wait for
help. If it is at all questionable, stay put. Keep the
injured person warm, hydrated and as
comfortable as possible. Do not try and treat
injuries outside of your medical training zone.
Help will be there soon.
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