KNOTS TO KNOW

Every scout has probably played with rope from the earliest moment of their play life. They will have used
it in connection with a lot of their games. In camp and on hikes they will be called upon to use it again and
again.
But, it is not just the rope that is of importance, every scout should know how to fasten this to objects (and
in come cases to itself) in the correct manner. In such a way that the rope can do its job effectively, but
still be able to be pulled loose easily if necessary.
There are three qualities to a good knot.
1. The speed and ease with which it can be tied.
2. The knots ability to hold fast.
3. The ease with which the knot can be removed afterwards.
These are the knots, I would recommend to all scouts. They are the most serviceable because they meet
the above requirements and will be of great help in many aspects of life and scout craft. If the tenderfoot
follows the various steps below, they will have no difficulty in reproducing them whenever required.
I would urge all scouts to practice their knot-tying with a short piece of rope, or a couple of boot laces.
To protect the ends from fraying a scout should know how to "whip" them. The most common method of
"whipping" is shown here:

1. Lay the twine on the rope, making a loop.

2. Start wrapping the twine around the rope, making sure to entrap the loop.
3. Continue wrapping the twine around the rope and then thread the twine through the end of the loop.
4. Pull down end (a) until the loop is pulled into the wrapped twine and then cut off excess twine on both
ends (a and b).
Of course, with todays modern nylon rope, such as Para-cord, the ends melt with a lighter, so this is
largely unnecessary with man-made ropes and cordage.

Mark Wilson

Chessington Scout Group

PARTS OF THE ROPE

1
For the sake of these instructions you
should know the three principal parts of the
rope:
1. The Standing Part
The long unused portion of the rope on
which he works;
2. The Bight
loop formed whenever the rope is turned
back upon itself; and,
3. The End
The part he uses in leading.

3
2

HANKING A ROPE STEP 1

A scout should also know how to hank a
rope properly. Hanking a rope keeps it knot
free whilst in a pack, but then allows the
rope to unfurl by pulling on both ends apart,
releasing the rope. Taking the time to hank
your guy lines when striking camp may save
untold misery when pitching next time.
First, wrap the rope in a figure of eight round
your thumb and little finger, starting at the
thumb with the loose end, and leaving a
length free at the other about a foot should
do.

HANKING A ROPE STEP 2

Holding the bundle together, remove from
your hand, and wind the free length firstly
over itself to lock, and then back down the
length of the bundle, until you reach the end.
Then pull the short free end to find the loop
that draws in, and form a loop with the
standing end through, pulling it firm against
the turns with the other End.
The Hank is now tight. Pulling on both free
ends will free the whole length of rope,
completely knot free!

Mark Wilson

Chessington Scout Group

THE OVERHAND KNOT

Start with the position shown in the
preceding diagram. Back the end around the
standing part and up through the bight and
draw tight.

THE BOW
The bow is used for tying your shoe or boot
laces, and setting up a hammock, by tying
the ends off to a tree.
Start with a normal overhand knot, and then
form a loop with both the standing part, and
the end. Then tie an overhand knot with the
two loops you have created.
For a more secure knot, create another
overhand knot with the loops on top of the
first.

THE FIGURE OF EIGHT KNOT

Make a bight as before. Then lead the end
around back of the standing part and down
through the bight.

Mark Wilson

Chessington Scout Group

THE REEF KNOT

Also known as the square knot.
The commonest knot for tying two ropes
together. Frequently used in first-aid
bandaging. Never slips or jams; easy to
untie.
Also forms part of the Scout membership
badge.

THE GRANNY KNOT

If the ends are not crossed correctly when
making the reef knot, the false reef or
granny knot is the result.
This knot is always bad, it does not hold fast
under tension, so is pretty useless.

THE SHEET BEND

Also known as the weavers knot. This knot
is used in bending the sheet to the clew of a
sail and in tying two rope-ends together.
Make a bight with one rope A, B, then pass
end C, of other rope up through and around
the entire bight and bend it under its own
standing part.

Mark Wilson

Chessington Scout Group

THE BOWLINE
A noose that neither jams nor slips. Used in
lowering a person from a burning building or
out of danger. Also handy to keep at the end
of guy lines for quick attaching to tent loops
etc.
Form a small loop on the standing part
leaving the end long enough for the size of
the noose required. Pass the end up
through the bight around the standing part
and down through the bight again. To
tighten, hold noose in position and pull
standing part.

THE SLIP KNOT

Also known as the halter or running knot.
A bight is first formed and an overhand knot
made with the end around the standing part.

THE SHEEPSHANK
Used for shortening ropes. Gather up the
amount to be shortened, then make a half
hitch round each of the bends as shown in
the diagram.
Once the two ends are under strain this is
surprisingly robust.

Mark Wilson

Chessington Scout Group

THE CLOVE HITCH

Used to fasten one pole to another in fitting
up scaffolding; this knot holds snugly; is not
liable to slip laterally. Hold the standing part
in left hand, then pass the rope around the
pole; cross the standing part, making a
second turn around the pole, and pass the
end under the last turn.

THE TIMBER HITCH

Used in hauling timber. Pass the end of the
rope around the timber. Then lead it around
its standing part and bring it back to make
two or more turns on its own part. The strain
will hold it securely.

TWO HALF HITCHES

Useful because they are easily made and
will not slip under any strain. Their formation
is sufficiently indicated by the picture (right).
A round turn and two half hitches is formed
in exactly the same way, except that you go
round the pole twice before tying the two
half hitches.

Mark Wilson

Chessington Scout Group

THE FISHERMANS KNOT

Used for tying silk-worm gut for fishing
purposes. It never slips; is easily unloosed
by pulling the two short ends.
The two ropes are laid alongside one
another, and then with each end an
overhand knot is made around the standing
part of the other. Pull the standing parts to
tighten.

THE CARRICK BEND

Used in uniting hawsers for towing. Is easily
untied by pushing the loops inwards.
Turn the end of one rope A over its standing
part B to form a loop. Pass the end of the
other rope across the bight thus formed,
back of the standing part B over the end A,
then under the bight at C, passing it over its
own standing part and under the bight again
at D.
Easier to do looking at the picture right, than
explain.

THE TAUT LINE HITCH

Used for guy lines. By moving the hitch up
or down the standing part you can tighten or
loosen the line.
Wrap round the peg or pole, then wrap the
standing part round the end through the
loop, twice, then finally above the loop and
through loop outside the original.
You should be able to see how this is
accomplished by the picture (right).

Mark Wilson

Chessington Scout Group

THE TURKS HEAD KNOT

Shown here 5 Bight 3 Ply Turks Head Knot,
continue to follow round the bights from step
5 Below, dont loop over the top of the top of
The End.
Note: this knot used 4 6 of 5mm Para-cord
to produce and the central hole is around
in diameter.
This is how to create the Gilwell woggle.

THE TURKS HEAD STEP 1

THE TURKS HEAD STEP 2

Mark Wilson

Chessington Scout Group

THE TURKS HEAD STEP 3

THE TURKS HEAD STEP 4

THE TURKS HEAD STEP 5

This would lock off the single ply Turks head

knot, however, for creating further ply,
simply follow the rope round like the picture
right.

Mark Wilson

Chessington Scout Group

LASHINGS
Lashings are a specific type of knot, and are used to lash things together, in camp craft this is primarily
used for pole fastenings.
Most lashings use the clove hitch knot (see page 6.) however, the timber hitch is also used in the diagonal
lashing (see page 6.).

SQUARE LASHING
These are used to join two poles that are at
right angles.
1. Place two poles on the ground in the
shape of a cross. Tie a clove hitch around
the bottom pole near the crosspiece, then
twist the free end of the rope around its
upper part and tuck it out of the way.
2. Make three or four wraps around the
poles, keeping the rope very tight. As you
form the wraps, lay the rope on the outside
of each previous turn around the
crosspiece, and on the inside of each
previous turn around the bottom pole.
3. Then frap (wrap round the core of the
lashing) three times around the wraps to
tighten the lashing as much as possible.
4. Finish the lashing with a clove hitch on
the opposite pole and opposite side from
the first clove hitch.

SHEER LASHING
These are used two join two poles together
lengthwise.
1. Lay two poles side by side.
2. Tie a clove hitch around one pole.
3. Make four loose wraps around the poles
and frap three times between them.
4. Finish the lashing with a clove hitch on
the opposite pole and opposite side from
the first clove hitch.

Mark Wilson

10

Chessington Scout Group

DIAGONAL LASHING
These are used to join two poles that are
not at right angles.
1. Start by tying a timber hitch around both
poles and pulling it snug.
2. Make four tight wraps around the spars,
laying each wrap neatly alongside the
timber hitch.
3. Make four more tight wraps across the
first three.
4. Wrap it three or four times and finish the
lashing with a clove hitch.

TRIPOD LASHING
A Tripod lashing is like a sheer lashing, but
is used to join three poles into a tripod.
1. Tie a clove hitch around one of the
outside poles.
2. Loosely wrap the poles five or six times,
then frap between each of the poles.
3. Finish the lashing with a clove hitch on
the opposite pole and opposite side from
the first clove hitch.

Mark Wilson

11

Chessington Scout Group

NOTES
Write your own notes here

Mark Wilson

12

Chessington Scout Group