2. Cutting of rolls/bales should be done shade wise as per the breakdown of the PO
Note: Rolls should be allotted in such a way that no of shades included in a single lay or
shipment or size range is minimized.
>> Fusing validation trial tests must be carried out regularly, when the new style
begins fusing parameters has to be finalised (temperature, time & pressure).
>>Check the fusing machine pressure rollers nip, affecting the fusing quality, by
passing a fabric strip through the machine & by pulling it backward --the need for
re alignment of the rollers pressure can be identified when this is done at three
points i.e left/center/right of the belt.
>>By passing a carbon paper placed on top a white paper through the machine the
impression on the white paper can be observed. This would also will help us to
determine any inconsistence of the roller pressure at left>center> Right
>>Cleaning of the belt thoroughly and check for the required temperature and pressure
when the fabric/colour changes.
Washing Shrinkage
1. Percentage of washing shrinkage lengthwise and widthwise should be received from
fabric section and recordedthe suppliers should ensure that the shrinkages are as
specified by the buyers (international standard limits are 3% lengthwise and 3%
-widthwise )
2. Identify the face & reverse side as per the swatch . Mark the roll no, PO, Style, QC,
Taka No etc
3. If the washing shrinkage % is more that 1.5% then the shrinkage test to be
conducted for all the rolls/bales received (100% of rolls)
4. If there is a big variation in shrinkage, multiple markers to be prepared.
For Example: For absolute shrinkage % range of 3.0 4.5 % marker/pattern#1 & for
shrinkage of 4.5% - 6% - Marker/Pattern # 2 like that.
>>Color codification should be done to trace rolls of shrinkage groups , if the range is too
large or inconsistent.
7. If the patterns are worn out, it has to be replicated & cross-verified for required
measurements, allowances and tolerances. On satisfying these factors the worn out
pattern has to be replaced.
8. Worn out patterns are to be destroyed after conformation on the correctness of the
specifications mentioned in tech pack.
9. Lay sheet on which the marker is drawn is torn in the middle & stickers are pasted
consisting details like PO no, Serial no, Fabric code no, Lot no. Hence easy
identification of cut panels.
Lay Preparation:
1. Layers shall collect lay slip, cutting job card, lay sheet from the minusing person.
2. Layers shall lay the fabric according to the lay slip details.
3. Layers shall collect rolls of only one shade and one width for the lay at a time ,if any
shade change is noticed then use separators- i.e. lay sheet has to be placed for
identification.
4. The cutting incharge has to decide upon the kind of lay such as face-to-face, face to
back, face up, face down, grain line, nap direction during the PP meeting stage upon
the analysis of the garment.
5. Use lay separator sheets to separate rolls of different shades if used in the same lay
the shade category should be mentioned on every lay separator sheet also.
Lay Precaution:
5. During laying the layers should check the lay-to-lay shade variation & also center to
selvedge variation as a part of online check procedure.
6. QC shall inspect the lay for lay tension, width, length, grain line, nap direction etc.
7. End wastage for laying of fabric shouldnt be more than 1 cm.
Bulk Cutting
12. The patterns used for band knife must be changed regularly upon monitoring the
wear and tear on the pattern, due to frequent usage.
Numbering
1. Numbering plan must be given by the numbering incharge, specifying the style #,
colour, P.O No., Serial No., No. Of garments cut, sizes.
2. All the parts shall be numbered in a pre determined sequence and at pre determined
location.
3. Numbering stickers gum strength (Light/Medium/Heavy) has to be decided keeping in
mind the kind of fabric being cut.
Panel Checking
1. The checkers carried out panel checking by placing the cut panels on the pattern and
checking for accuracy of notches, grain lines, nap direction, crocked cutting,
measurements & tolerance.
2. Mark the pattern on a board (Acrylic. Card Board) along with +/- tolerance as dotted
lines around the outline marked. Place the cut panel (component) on this marked
area. It becomes easier to asses if the cut panel is within or out of tolerance. This
inspection board has to verified and approved by pattern maker before usage.
3. Once the fabric is cut, they shall be bundled and marked with inspection status.
4. When a bundle is checked, they shall be marked with green as c.
5. When cut panels are inspected they shall be marked with green as I.
6. All panels shall be checked for fabric defects.
3. Issues of cut bundles to batches be done out as per the loading plan
4. Bundle tags will have details such as lot no, serial no, size, bundle no.
5. Mention shade category (A, B, C) on the cut panels for easy identification and
tracking.
Re cutting & End bit Control:
8. Layers shall mark both end bits with roll number, cut-lot number, meter age --all the
bits every lay shall be bundled and given to recutting department.
9. End-bits should be always laid face-up, no change in laying procedure without prior
information from the incharge
10. End-bits should be placed separately (Shade wise) to avoid discrepancies, the roll &
taka number should be written and stacked separately
11. Re-Cutting should be done from the same lot of fabric, matching the shade, to avoid
shade variation.