Design Workshop

Fall.Winter 2016-2017

he Fall/Winter 2016-17 season explores a multigenerational viewpoint of young and old, of todays

new and tomorrows newer. T he imagination takes adventures even further than conceptual space in AEON.
Knowing that time and materials are precious gives handcrafting new purpose in MAKER. In EXHIBIT, creativity
is explored on both a personal and commercial level, expressed in narrative journals or posted on social media
blogs. MEMENTO takes a new approach to world travel, where collecting stories and experiences take on
ultimate value. From each vantage point there is a story to be told.

CONTENTS

03

04

26

48

70

AEON

MAKER

EXHIBIT

MEMENTO

ELEMENT
Imagination and innovation support endless futuristic possibilities

04

Aeon

AEON

The interest and fascination of space and beyond lays the foundation of AEON. This story sets itself
between reality and the unknown. It explores the tension between history and the uncharted empowering
effects of technology. There is a great deal to consider when developing initiatives for the future. Previously,
fashion survived by reviewing past times, decade by decade, but now eras will be combined into one look.
Inventive fabrications and clean silhouettes offer a new take on uniform dressing, while holographic shine
transports us into the perceived future. Technology and innovation motivate design for a future new world.
INFINITY
01

02

03

04

05

06

07

08

09

10

11

12

CYBERNATION

06-13

14-21

22-23

INFINITY

CYBERNATION

MENSWEAR

Aeon

05

HIGH-TECH FORM

Cline

Kenzo

Akris

Rag & Bone

Dion Lee

Clean and modern with weightless volume, high-tech outerwear

protects against the elements. Silhouettes are streamlined and
pristine for an ultra sleek look.

06

Aeon

QUILTED SHELL
PUFFER JACKET

tonal stitching with zip up

back

bomber style with

drawstring waist

QUILTED OVERCOAT
drop sleeve with hidden
closure

BLANKET SKIRT
quilted with a handkerchief
hemline
SKINNY TROUSERS
single button closure with
padded knees
Aeon

07

LABRATORY

Leonard

Fendi

Osman

Topshop

Gabriele Colangelo

Sterile and palette-cleansing, jumpsuits and pinafores in

modern fabrications create a unique uniform.

08

Aeon

TAILORED JUMPSUIT
semi-peaked lapel with
asymmetrical waistband

LAB COAT

SLEEVELESS COAT

notched lapel with chest

pocket

center front button closure

with side pocket

TRAPEZE DRESS
LAB SHIRT
fishtail front with button
back

sleeveless with side pocket

Aeon

09

CYBER PUNK

Alexander Wang

Diesel Black Gold

Calvin Klein Collection

Sonia Rykiel

Balenciaga

Street looks move past leather and into materials worthy

of science fiction. Technical texture and dark attributes
reinterpret punk.

10

Aeon

EMBELLISHED TEE
striped sequin long sleeve
tee
QUILTED BOMBER
zip front and rib at hem
and sleeves

SHIFT DRESS
deep v neckline with
grommet hemline
MINI SKIRT
A-line with belt detail

SKINNY PANT
high-waisted with
grommet ankle details

Aeon

11

ACTIVE BLUR

Carven

Akris

DKNY

Iceberg

Carolina Hererra

The line between casual and active continues to blur as

sportswear incorporates neoprene and double-face knits, great
for whatever adventure lies ahead.

12

Aeon

PULLOVER ANORAK
short sleeve with flare yoke

HOODIE DRESS
kangaroo pocket with
gathered flounce hemline

MATCHED SET
boxy crop top with A-line
skirt

STIRRUP LEGGINGS
pull-on with seamless
pockets
Aeon

13

NEW MODERNIST

David Koma

Christian Dior

Carven

Tibi

Narciso Rodriguez

Contemporary hues fused with retro silhouettes create the look

for the new age woman of the next millennia.

14

Aeon

BUTTON UP SHIRT
SHRUNKEN TURTLENECK

asymmetrical blocked with

medium tip collar

full fashioned with rib at

hem and sleeves

T-SHIRT
short sleeve body with
abstract print

A-LINE MINI
geo print body with turn
lock closure belt

FLUID CULOTTE
loose fit with hidden
closure

Aeon

15

CYBER COUTURE

Acne Studios

Balenciaga

Carolina Herrera

Daks

J.W. Anderson

Great dressing only gets bigger in the future, bulbous yet

feminine silhouettes make a grand statement on ladylike style.

16

Aeon

CROPPED SWEATER
over attached shirt collar
with open side
TOPCOAT
shaped body with
decorative edge stitching

FIT & FLARE DRESS

rounded sleeves and new
age neckline

STRUCTURED MINISKIRT
fitted body with pointed
waist
FLUID TROUSERS
wide leg with split highback waist
Aeon

17

GALAXY SHINE

Jill Stuart

Fendi

Giorgio Armani

Just Cavalli

Sonia Rykiel

Blumarine

Holographic and metallic fabrics are the way of the future with
their reflective surfaces, adding state-of-the-art dimension to
design.

18

Aeon

POPOVER POLO
short sleeve body with
holographic print
MOCK TURTLENECK
Lurex with rib at neck and
sleeeves

TRENCH COAT
single- breasted and slim
fit

MINI DRESS
TROUSERS
straight fit with
holographic print

printed mock turleneck

body

Aeon

19

SPACE SOIGNE

Christian Dior

Christian Dior

Carolina Herrera

Laura Biagiotti

David Koma

Crystallized embellishment and ultra-dressy shine, applied to

technical fabrics, offers a modern twist on the traditional holiday
dress.

20

Aeon

SLEEVELESS BLOUSE
racer front tank with
sequins

FITTED TEE
long sleeve tee with
metallic yoke

JUMPSUIT
cutout top with culotte
bottom and sequins

MOCK 2-FER DRESS

TROUSER SHORTS

attached embellished top

and skirt

high-waist with deep cuff

Aeon

21

HYBRIDWEAR

Versace

Christian Pellizzari

John Richmond

Les Hommes

KTZ

Separates get a special makeover. Classic athletic bodies

are updated with functional details and cyber-inspired
graphics.

22

Aeon

UTILITY SWEATSHIRT
nylon patch pocket and
fabric blocked sleeves

PUFFER PARKA
quilted with shirt hem

SKI OVERALLS
performance finishes with
functional pockets

WOVEN TEE
sporting details and fabric
blocked

SLIM JOGGERS
knitted with drop crotch
Aeon

23

Optic white and silver metallic combine with galaxy

darks. Subtle surface details add high-tech dimension.

24

Aeon

A C C E S S ORIE S

Bright pops of color, embellishment and holographic

shine perfect the cyber fem look.

Aeon

25

Outerwear dominates the street scene with technical

details, weightless volume and futuristic shine, carrying
us into a new era of style.

S T R E E T ST YL E
PALATE CLEANSER

SPACE OPTICS

26

Aeon

New age basics. Futuristic protection. Dimensional shine.

PUNK IN ORBIT

ASTRONAUT TOPPER

Aeon

27

MAKER
Sophisticated luxuries create a feel-good factor

28

Maker

MAKER
MAKER focused on understated luxuries that are cozy and perfectly constructed. Lodged in a precarious
time, people are choosing realistic and orderly sartorial style. Less and smarter consumption is necessary,
leading to restrained design visions that show the added value of comfort and bespoke craftsmanship.
Simple luxury translates into perfectly constructed modern essentials. Classics like suits, blazers and
jackets draw inspiration from menswear yet are constructed for women, adding interest to the androgynous
movement. Tradition will set the direction with spaciously fitted and renewed proportions.
DWELL
13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

BESPOKE

30-35

36-43

44-45

DWELL

BESPOKE

MENSWEAR

Maker

29

COZY COCOON

Michael Kors

Andrew GN

Max Mara

Carolina Herrera

Coach

A Detacher

The new casual luxury, knitwear takes on natural qualities

and rustic texture. With an increased focus on comfort,
knit dressing gives the feeling of cozy cocoon living.

30

Maker

KNIT TUNIC
eyelash yarn knit and rib
collar

TURTLENECK SWEATER
high turtleneck and open
side seam

BODICE DRESS
cross neck detail and stitch
mix

ELONGATED VEST
deep V-neck with belt
KNIT PANTS
wide leg with patchwork
stitching

Maker

31

SOFT CONSTRUCTION

Stella McCartney

Max Mara

Paul Smith

Sportmax

Paul Smith

The strict look is fading as traditional suits are reinvented

in softer silhouettes. Precious materials and high-end
details are perfect for the modern woman.

32

Maker

OVERSIZE TOPPER
drop shoulder with shawl
collar

ASYMMETRICAL HEM DRESS

round jewel collar with
flutter sleeve

WRAP SKIRT

EASY FIT SUIT

midi length with buckle

side closure

cropped jacket with cuffed

trousers
Maker

33

WEAR-TO-WORK

Jason Wu

Altuzarra

Derek Lam

Jasper Conran

Blugirl

The 70s are apparent again in wear-to-work pieces fit

for the office. Luxe suede in modern colors and brushed
textured fabrics offer a refined view on the era of
inspiration.

34

Maker

BOW BLOUSE
high cuff sleeve with bow
tie neck

2-FER DRESS
self belted dress over
turtleneck sweater

POWER SUIT
long jacket with highwaisted cigarette pants

RUFFLE BLOUSE
lace yoke and center back
button closure
Maker

35

MANNISH SUIT

3.1 Phillip Lim

Chlo

Chanel

Ralph Lauren

Paul Smith

Women adapt classic menswear suiting, referencing the

industrial 40s with functional and bespoke detailing. Gender
lines become increasingly blurred as androgyny is taken to a
new level.

36

Maker

CLASSIC SHIRT
button up with self bow-tie

PINSTRIPE COAT
double-breasted with
leather belt

TWEED PENCIL SKIRT

THREE PIECE SUIT

fabric blocked with side

zipper closure

tailored jacket with

cigarrette pants
Maker

37

OFFICER SWAG

Chlo

Trussardi

Salvatore Ferragamo

Gucci

Michael Kors

Military inspiration continues to rank high in fall fashion.

Uniforms are part of a distinguished urban style that
commands as sense of reinforced practicality and order.

38

Maker

AIRFORCE JACKET
fur trim collar with patch
detail

SHIRT DRESS
U-hem with flat pocket flip
top buckle belt

MAXI COAT
double-breasted with
belted cuff

CUFFED TROUSERS

WIDE LEG PANTS

high cuff with front pleat

paper bag waist with belt

Maker

39

WAREHOUSE

Fendi

Herms

3.1 Phillip Lim

Nina Ricci

Jill Stuart

Workwear gets an artisanal update with leather,

handcrafted denim and luxe knits. Utilitarian and functional
details craft tailored items into a more casual concept.

40

Maker

CARPENTER VEST
one sided panel wtih snap
closure

WORK SHIRT
button up with cargo
pocket

SUSPENDER TROUSERS
high-waisted band with
suspenders
CROPPED JACKET

PINAFORE DRESS

center front zipper and side

pockets

basic overall closure with

bib pocket
Maker

41

BLACK TIE NUEVO

Donna Karen

Ralph Lauren

Givenchy

Marissa Webb

Marc Jacobs

The suit replaces traditional gowns for eveningwear,

reinforcing the concept of agender style. Tailored jackets
with weightless skirts create a sophisticated mix of
masculine and feminine.

42

Maker

SHIRT DRESS
2-fer body with side seasm
and tie

TUXEDO DRESS
deep V-neck with
elongaged round collar
SKIRT SUIT

DRESS PANT

flutter sleeve jacket with

maxi skirt

soft straight leg pant

Maker

43

SPOKEN FOR

44

Maker

Custo Barcelona

Robert Geller

John Varvatos

Canali

Todd Snyder

Bespoke aficionados rejoice. A renewed interest in tailored

menswear merges as gentlemen pick up classic sartorial
style. Materials are luxuriously rustic with refined detailing.

SHIRT JACKET
quilted with contrast collar
and snap buttons

BLAZER JACKET
double-breasted with wide
lapel

MILITARY COAT
double-breasted with metal
buttons

TUNIC SHIRT
mandarin collar with utility
pockets

DRESS PANTS
exaggerated waistband
and ankle length
Maker

45

Handcrafted and cozy. Luxe materials in neutral colors

are the ultimate sophistication.

46

Maker

A C C E S S ORIE S

Better than the boys. Crafty hardware and artisanal

details update and refine the gentlemen look
reinterpreted for the ladies.

Maker

47

Modern luxury is at its finest with cozy handcrafted knits,

luxe outerwear and subtle tailoring. The 70s come into
play with retro coloring and styling.

S T R E E T ST YL E
COZY LAYERS

70S VIBES

48

MAKER

Classic menswear suiting and outwear. Pilot fashion takes flight.

TRADITIONAL TEXTURE

AVIATOR

Maker

49

EXHIBIT
Snapshots of personal and commercial expressions.

50

Exhibit

EXHIBIT
Fashion gets framed this season: its becoming more and more difficult to not acknowledge the relationship between art, comics and style. EXHIBIT is focused on all things expressive, wheather its sketched
in a diary or posted on social media. Girly and childlike looks are for the nave and playful, while big and
expressive blocks of animation are for the bold. Textiles in which art, design and technology come together are prevalent. Anything goes when it comes to art, so let the is fashion art debate rage on as you
wear museum-worthy works on a frock come fall.
LYRICAL
25

26

27

28

29

30

31

32

33

34

35

36

SIGNAGE

52-54

58-65

66-67

LYRICAL

SIGNAGE

MENSWEAR

Exhibit

51

PASTEL PROPER

Prada

Missoni

Dolce & Gabbana

Miu Miu

Chanel

Artificial hues settle nicely into Fall/Winter territory, marking

prim and proper pieces with a bit of whimsy. Texture feels
completely new with the addition of novelty yarns and
weaves.

52

Exhibit

DOUBLE-BREASTED BLAZER
wide top stitch with 7/8
sleeve

SKIRT SUIT
shaped jacket with tiewaist and pencil skirt

HALTER DRESS
oversize buttons with
pleated skirt

SKI TROUSERS
PENCIL SKIRT
top stitching with extended
waistband

cropped with slight flare

and back closure
Exhibit

53

DOLLBABY

J.Crew

Holly Fulotn

Blugirl

Prada

Bora Aksu

Blame it on Barbie. Doll-like style is heavily prevalent with

ultra feminine colors that are reminiscent of the 60s.
Outerwear in candy colors and texture bring this look out
of the corner.

54

Exhibit

KNIT TURTLENECK
skinny fit with rib stitch
PLASTIC RAINCOAT
snap buttons with
transpartent patch pocket

PUFF SKIRT
high-waisted with gathers

BABYDOLL DRESS
empire line with bow
shoulder details

A-LINE SKIRT
snapbutton closure with
side pocket

Exhibit

55

CHILDS PLAY

Moschino

Delpozo

Dolce & Gabbana

Peter Pilotto

Jeremy Scott

Dress your shoe size, not your age with whimsical prints
this season. Child-like scribbles and characters will put
anyone in a playful mood.

56

Exhibit

TRAPEZE DRESS
back button closure with
graphic

TURTLENECK DRESS
printed easy body

SHIRT DRESS
peter pan collar with
concealed placket

SWING-BACK COAT
A-line hem with all over
print
BABYDOLL DRESS
ruffle neckline with printed
skirt

Exhibit

57

VINTAGE PREP

Miu Miu

Tibi

Cdric Charlier

Tome

Tommy Hilfiger

Its back to boarding school with retro prep school

silhouettes. The handbook gets a rewrite, however, with bold
colorblocking, chunky knits and mixed plaids and textures.

58

Exhibit

CROPPED SWEATER
VINTAGE POLO

shortsleeve stripe with

ragalan sleeve

ribbed collar with center

front placket

SCHOOL GIRL COAT

oversize tweed with leather
patches

TWEED SHORTS
turnup cuff and belted
MIDRISE JEAN
cuffed with printed lining
Exhibit

59

ON SLICK

Tome

Valentin Yadashkin

Topshop Unique

J. W. Anderson

J. W. Anderson

High-shine outerwear and separates makes a simple

statement. Whether patent leather or PVC, pieces are glossy
enough to check your reflection.

60

Exhibit

LINER COAT
collarless with leather
buttons

COAT DRESS
double-breasted A-line
body

WRAP TRENCH COAT

bell sleeves and belt
LEATHER SHORTS
button fornt short shorts
with darts

MIDI SKIRT
insert seaming and side
pockets

Exhibit

61

SPORT SIGN

Marco de Vincenzo

Tsumori Chisato

Lacoste

Tommy Hilfiger

Balmain

Bold blocks, stripes and panels marry with sportier styles

for looks that need no interpretation. Their intentions are
clear the first time around.

62

Exhibit

SPORT PULLOVER
elongated sleeve and half
zip

SWEAT JACKET
zip up printed body with
rib

BIG TUNIC
V-neck with droopped
armhole

A-line skirt
SWEATPANTS
high-rib waist and cuffs
with colorblocking

fabric and colorblocked

panels
Exhibit

63

COMIC RELIEF

Tsumori Chisato

Jeremy Scott

Opening Ceremony

Libertine

No need to attend Comic Con to get the uber geek chic

look. Everything from iconic logos to throwback childhood
characters are in vogue.

64

Exhibit

CREWNECK SWEATER
ribbed collar and sleeves
with center-front graphic
JERSEY TANK DRESS
racerback with deep
armhole

PATCHED PARKA
rib trim with fur hood and
chest welt pockets

KILT
SWEAT TUNIC
kangaroo pocket with print

pleated front wrap with

allover print

Exhibit

65

ASSEMBLAGE

James Long

Perry Ellis

MAN

Astrid Andersen

Vivienne Westwood

The men are getting nostalgic for boyhood dreams.

Casualwear is retro-inspired with a focus on artful graphics,
kitschy verbiage and mixed media print.

66

Exhibit

DRESS SHIRT
contrast collar with patches
and concealed buttonfront

DENIM TRUCKER JACKET

stars and stripes applique
and a suede yoke

TOPCOAT
oversized pockets and
applique monogram

INTARSIA SWEATER

DENIM JOGGERS

multicolor with raglan

sleeve

contrast waistband and

hem with drawcord waist
Exhibit

67

Cheerful colors, unconventional materials and

whimsical details combine to create a quirky yet
ladylike look.

68

Exhibit

A C C E S S ORIE S

Commercial logos, symbols and messaging reflects

todays consumer culture. Bold colorblocking gives a
retro feel.

Exhibit

69

Bold knits keep winter lively. Super loud panels and stripes
are energetic and alive, while playful pink separates keep
style fun.

S T R E E T ST YL E
BOLD KNITS

BABYDOLL PINKS

70

Exhibit

Expressive call-outs. Iconic logos. Lighthearted statements.

EXPRESSIONS

SIGNS & CARTOONS

Exhibit

71

MEMENTO
A collection of rich heirlooms

72

Memento

MEMENTO
Incorporating a sartorial nod to global culture can be a bit of a gamblego too far and its a costume. If you
mix traditional motifs and embroideries with modern silhouettes correctly, however, youll have yourself
in a fall fairytale. Folk fashion is intertwined with history, tradition and customs that bare their own kind of
timeless appeal. Constantly collected and reimagined, the folk aesthetic remains moderna MEMENTO
of a story. Tap into your free spirit and collect the pieces of your story.
SPIRITED
37

38

39

40

41

42

43

44

45

46

47

48

CEREMONY

74-81

82-87

88-89

SPIRITED

CEREMONY

MENSWEAR

Memento

73

GRAND TZIGANE

74

Memento

Valentino

Dries Van Noten

Lanvin

Anna Sui

Chlo

Gypset continues to mix romanticized nomad looks and the

glamorous stylings of the jet-set. Bold patterns, furs and maxis
form a carefree opulence.

PRINTED WRAP
oversize printed shawl with
fringe

BOHO VEST
PEASENT DRESS
sleevless with V-neck and
ruffled hem

long body with print inset

and fur trim

TUNIC
kimono sleeve with round
basic collar
Memento

75

HEIRLOOMS

76

Memento

Roberto Cavalli

Rebecca Minkoff

Temperley London

Lanvin

Burberry Prorsum

Rich in texture and print, worldly influences are seen in keepsakes

collected from continent to continent. Fringe, embellishment and
texture play a significant role in keeping pieces unique.

LEATHER JACKET
cropped body with print
and stitch details at sleeves

WRAP COAT

COCKTAIL DREsS

printed oversize collar with

tie closure

sleeveless with embriodery

at neck and centerfront

CROSSOVER SKIRT
knee length with faux front
wrap
Memento

77

ON THE BALTIC

Valentino

Anna Sui

Givenchy

Lanvin

Alberta Ferretti

Taking a note from countries on the Baltic and the bucolic style of the
countryside, a fresh version of bohemian eccentricity is complete with
luxe execution.

78

Memento

WRAP COAT
drop shoulder with
embroidered appliqu

SHIRT DRESS

PEASENT MAXI

covered loop button

closure with front slit

high collar and gathered

sleeves with flounce hem

THROW-ON ROBE
open-front with
colorblocked panels

Memento

79

FALL EQUINOX

BCBG Max Azria

Stella Jean

KTZ

Isabel Marant

Valentino

Summer isnt the only season for celebration. Fall festival

dressing differs to its spring counterparts with the
introduction of bold primaries mixed back to gray and more
layered looks.

80

Memento

HIGH-NECK BLOUSE
bluson sleeves with ties at
hem

FESTIVAL VEST
suede body with fur trim
and tie tassels

FULL SKIRT

SHIRT DRESS

printed skirt with lace-up

front

short sleeve maxi with

ruffle details
Memento

81

FOLK KNITS

Valentino

Missoni

Mara Hoffman

Luis Buchinho

Etro

Knits take on a folkloric flare with the introduction of

bolder colors and pattern mixes. From Scandinavia to Asia
these pieces make a cultural statement.

82

Memento

CAPE KNIT SWEATER

high-neck with fringe and
rib

CAFTAN DRESS
split-neck with fringe at
sleeves and hem

KNIT BLOCK DRESS

empire with woven tiered
sleeves
BLOCKED SWEATER
blocked intarsia sweater
with rib

Memento

83

EASTERN LUXE

Etro

Erdem

Alberta Ferretti

Jeremy Scott

Dries Van Noten

Andrew GN

From the Far East comes the most ornate and beautiful
jacquards, giving us a new perspective on one of the greatest
empires of the world. Rich and exotic motifs display the reach
of the dynasty.

84

Memento

VEST
wrap style with mock belt
and side closure

BELTED DRESS
wrap top with asian motif
and fringe hem
KIMONO WRAP DRESS
sleeveless with self-tie and
gold thread embroidery
SOFT BLAZER
bell sleeves with contrast
collar and cuff
Memento

83

CEREMONIAL SHINE

Herv Leger

Tory Burch

Dries Van Noten

Les Copains

Dries Van Noten

Separates get ceremonial and lavish with the addition of

delicate gold and shimmer. Multicultural dress is celebrated and
reinterpreted.

86

Memento

JACKET
mandarin collar with
appliqu on sleeves

BODY-CON DRESS
deep V-neck with print
blocking

BALLGOWN SKIRT
high-waisted with placed
print and graphic

PRINTED SKIRT
blocked with mock apron
and gathers
Memento

87

EXOTIC CRAFT

Custo Barcelona

Burberry Prorsum

Burberry Prorsum

Fendi

Missoni

An amalgam of tokens from global cultures translates

to elaborate pattern mixing and ornamental texture for
everyday sartorial style.

88

Memento

JACQUARD PULLOVER
mixed media and leather
blocking

SHEARLING COAT
leather buttons and
seaming with detachable
collar

DRESS BLAZER
jacquard blocking with
two-button closure

TURTLENECK
fully fashioned armhole
and fine gauge rib

CROPPED TROUSERS
turned up cuffs and flat
front
Memento

89

A wealth of cultural mixes. Folkloric patterns and rich

embroidery elevate the avant-garde look.

90

Memento

A C C E S S ORIE S

Ornate details and lavish materials reference traditions

of East and West, creating a style that is the definition
of fortune.

Memento

91

Tribal print ponchos and toppers are vibrant and

bold, while ceremonial robes are remade in feminine
colorations for a quiet yet purposeful look.

S T R E E T ST YL E
TRIBAL TOPPERS

CEREMONIAL ROBE

92

Memento

Eastern European prints. Opulent embroideries. Delicate filament details.

WINTER MAXIS

GOLDEN EMBROIDERIES

Memento

93

is a division of The Doneger Group

Copyright 2014 by Henry Doneger Associates,Inc.
463 Seventh Avenue, New York, NY 10018 P 212 564 1266 www.doneger.com
All rights reserved. No part of this report may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical,
including photocopying, recording or by any information retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.