From a chemical point of view fats are essentially triacylglycerides, i.e. substances made up of three fatty acids and
glycerol.
Milk fat is characterised by very wide fatty acid distribution, ranging from butyric acid to arachidonic acid. In addition
to saturated (medium and long-chain) fatty acids it also contains physiologically important unsaturated and shortchain fatty acids in amounts of up to 40 %. Milk fat also contains mono- and diglycerides, phospholipids, free fatty
acids, cholesterol, fat soluble vitamins A, D, E and K, enzymes, as well as aromatic and decomposition substances.
The composition of milk is affected by various factors, the most important of which are:
Fodder: influences the content of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids as well as vitamin E and A
Lactation stage: influences the content of short- and long-chain fatty acids
Heredity, state of health, animal age: influences the predisposition of unsaturated fatty acids to lipolysis and
oxidation.
The fat globules are reduced in size by mechanical or thermal action, leading to a shortage of primary membrane
material since the surface of the fat globules increases when viewed as a whole. In this case milk proteins are called
upon to form the so-called secondary fat globule membrane, causing casein and serum proteins and, increasingly,
enzymes such as lipase to bind with the fat globule membrane.
Extremely high fractions of oleic acid are found during alpine summering (up to 30 %).
The data in the table below are based on a wide-ranging study carried out by FAM in 1997. Extreme values such as
those occurring during alpine summering have not been taken into account, as the proportion of production is low
when measured against overall Swiss milk production.
Winter butter
4.35
2.63
1.4
3.0
0.3
3.78
11.53
1.28
1.18
0.3
32.03
1.75
0.65
0.38
8.8
21.1
1.95
1.08
0.65
0.15
<0.1
Summer butter
4.35
2.63
1.4
2.83
0.3
3.5
10.65
1.25
1.1
0.3
27.0
1.63
0.6
0.38
9.68
25.8
2.3
1.28
1.25
0.2
<0.1
EPA: Eicosapentaensure
DHA: Docosapentaensure
the lipolysis of milk fat (formation of free fatty acids and mono/diglycerides)
oxidation of unsaturated fatty acids (formation of highly volatile breakdown products such as aldehydes,
ketones, esters, lactones and alcohols as well as short-chain mono- and dicarboxylic acids)
In a wider sense fat deterioration can even denote processes which lead to the oxidation of cholesterol or the
enzymatic cleavage of phospholipids, and to proteolytic changes in the fat globule membrane.
In addition to the detrimental sensory changes produced by fat deterioration, e.g. aroma defects (rancid, metallic,
oxidative, tallowy, fishy) and cap or plug formation or butter separation, fat deterioration also has technological
drawbacks.
Being emulsifiers, the fatty acids and mono- or diglycerides which are formed reduce the separation effect during
centrifuging. In difficult cases the fat content of the buttermilk or whey may even increase.
Cream treatment
During cream treatment the temperature ranges from 63C (30 min) to 110C (3-5 s) and depends on the intended
use and quality of the original cream.
High pasteurisation temperatures are designed to promote oxidation stability and inhibit microbial lipase. However
these advantages are offset by disadvantages like a cooked taste and increased risk of reinfection.
Following pasteurisation the cream is often subjected to graduated heat treatment, the object being intraglobular
fractionation of the milk fat. Optimum success in separating the solid and liquid fat fractions by "cold-warm-cold
ripening" produces a reduction in butter hardness.
This is known as physical cream ripening.
Gradual cooling (formation of large disc-shaped crystals) to 6-8C and storage (cooling may also be carried
out in two stages)
The cream is brought to buttermaking temperature (10-13C) prior to making the butter.
If a butter produced in summer is not to be too soft, the cream is warm-cold ripened to give a harder butter, produced
by stronger crystal cross-linking. As consumers currently prefer soft butter, this variant of cream ripening is not used
very frequently (probably not at all in Switzerland).
Procedure: After pasteurisation the cream is cooled to 20-22C and stored for several hours. Cooling is carried out in
two stages, initially to 14-16C, then to under 10C after a few hours.
In each case cooling should be carried out quickly to obtain intensive crystal cross-linking.
As well as being ripened physically, the cream is also ripened bacterialogically using a "starter". The object of this
measure is to:
The starter contains lactic and citric acids as well as aromatic substances, chiefly diacetyl. This is formed from
acetoin in the presence of oxygen and a pH value below 5.2 (the citric acid is freed as a precursor molecule).
Streptococcus lactis, Streptococcus cremoris, Streptococcus diacetylactis and possibly Lactobacillus cremoris are
typical starter bacteria. Ripening takes place at between 18-21C and as a rule lasts for over 10 hours. In this phase
the cream can only be stirred slowly and gently. Not until casein precipitation has started (from approx. pH 4.8) can
the now viscous cream be stirred, pumped and cooled. Premature stirring produces a buttermilk of excessive fat
content. Physical ripening must be combined with aromatic ripening in sour cream butter production.
Buttermaking methods
Various processes are used in butter production.
The commonest are:
Continuous buttermaker:
The cream is continuously pumped in and churned by rapidly rotating beaters. The cream emulsion is broken
after approx. 30 seconds, forming butter grains and buttermilk. Most of the buttermilk drains away, the
remainder is worked into the butter. The butter is then kneaded in several stages until homogeneous. In a final
treatment metered amounts of salt suspensions as well as lactic acid concentrates and aromatic concentrates
can be added and worked in (NIZO process).
Alfa process:
Cream (or butter) is adjusted to the desired fat content and heated. Phase reversal is initiated by shock cooling
in scrape chillers. The buttermaking process is completed using pinworkers and resting tubes. The result is
often a hard, brittle butter which needs further processing in butter homogenisators. Calorie-reduced butter
products, butter spreads or reconstituted products (e.g. cholesterol-free butter) are frequently produced in a
Combinator (Alfa process). As a rule the Alfa process is used to make reconstituted butter after blending the
source materials. The manufacture of butter products from individual source products such as milk fat, skim
milk, buttermilk, starters and other milk constituents is used mainly in mass production.
The bottom limit technologically feasible for butter fat is 610-620 g/kg. The manufacture of products with an even
lower fat content calls for the use of customised technologies and increased protein- (emulsifier) levels. Basically both
sour cream and sweet cream can be turned into butter by all the processes, although butter is increasingly being
produced using the NIZO process in order to exploit the advantages of sweet buttermilk. In the NIZO process butter
produced from sweet cream is converted to sour cream butter in the final buttermaker stage using biological lactic
acid concentrates and aromatic concentrates. This butter is described either as soured butter, mildly soured butter,
alternative or other butter. The advantage of the process is that it produces sweet buttermilk which is much easier
to utilize than sour buttermilk (powder production).
Butter types
A basic distinction is made between butter produced exclusively from sweet cream and butter made from a blend of
sweet cream and whey cream.
In standard butter production the non-fat dry matter content is low, only 1.2 - 1.5 % on average. If butter produced by
churning is washed, the content is even significantly below 1 %. From a nutritional point of view the non-fat dry mass
is of little importance, although it can have a major impact in bacteriological and sensory terms. Therefore in order to
avoid detrimental changes in butter products, care must be taken to ensure good distribution of the aqueous phase,
with the droplet size not exceeding 10 Micrometer.
The following butter products are on the market in Switzerland:
Traditional butter
By traditional butter is meant soured butter made from sour cream as well as soured butter made from sweet cream
and soured directly afterwards, or sweet cream butter (salted or unsalted, with salted butter taking only a small
market share).
Cheesemaking butter
This butter is produced from a blend of sweet cream and whey cream (60:40) without acidulation. Market share is
very small (local sales). There is also a type of whey butter made from sweet cream and whey cream supplied to
central buttermaking plants. The important point here is that the whey cream is not acidulated so that the copper level
in the whey butter can be kept low.
In addition, butter produced by cheesemakers is delivered to central buttermaking plants. If these butters meet the
quality requirements for table butter they are given final pasteurisation using the Alfa process and then also marketed
as whey butter. However butter from commercial production is often directly processed into rendered butter.
A blend of sweet cream and whey cream (95:5). Both domestic and foreign soured butter is used to make sweet
cream butter. Freshly produced sweet cream butter is increasingly being used in addition to stored traditional butter,
or a blend of sweet cream and whey cream is even turned into butter and unmoulded straight away.
Rendered butter
Examples of other designations are clarified butter, anhydrous milk fat, butter oil or ghee. The different designations
are specifically used internationally to differentiate the quality.
Anhydrous milk fat (AMF) meets the highest quality requirements and comprises 99.9 % milk fat. Butter oil and ghee,
on the other hand, are not as pure and their quality not as highly ranked.
The bulk of production is from butter. The butter is melted, centrifuged to separate off the serum phase, extracted with
steam and heated to a high temperature under vacuum. If rendered butter is intended for use as cooking butter, a
suitable flavour is produced using small buttermilk additives in the final stage of production.
AMF has recently been made directly from cream. Here the cream is concentrated and broken in special separators,
the process in principle then following that used when butter is the starting product. The evacuation of air by means of
inert gas, e.g. nitrogen, can also be used instead of steam extraction. This process is often employed in vegetable oil
production, but has not proved successful in experiments on milk fat.
Rendered butter is therefore practically pure milk fat produced from domestic or foreign sweet cream butter as well as
from cheesemaking butter or whey butter.
Light butter
A calorie-reduced butter with a fat content of 50 %. It contains an increased protein content (3-5 %) and as a rule is
very spreadable at refrigerator temperature. The starting product is traditional butter which is blended with milk
constituents to the level required.
Butter spreads
Blended products made from butter and other food ingredients. They must have a minimum fat content of 51 %.
Unlike other butter products they may contain non-milk fats if admixture makes this unavoidable.
Baking butter
Baking butter is an intermediate product made from butter and a high-melting milk fat fraction (Stearin fraction).
Other intermediate products available are margarine products with a high butter content (up to 30%). There is also a
new fat spread made from half butter, half margarine.