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Title: The Sunny South
An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Author: John William Clayton
Release Date: July 19, 2015 [EBook #49491]
Language: English
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[Illustration: DISTANT VIEW OF BARCELONA. FROM A DRAWING

BY THE AUTHOR.]

THE SUNNY SOUTH.

AN AUTUMN
IN SPAIN AND MAJORCA.
[Illustration: The Dragonera Rock, Majorca. From a Drawing
by the Author.]
BY
CAPTAIN J. W. CLAYTON, F.R.G.S.,
LATE 13TH HUSSARS.

LONDON:
HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,
13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1869.
_The Right of Translation is reserved._

[Illustration: [++] Decorative Image]

THE SUNNY SOUTH.
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I INSCRIBE THIS BOOK
TO
ISABEL AND HAROLD,
IN THE HOPE THAT THESE PASSAGES IN THE TRAVEL-LIFE OF
THEIR FATHER MAY BE SOME DAY NOT WITHOUT
INTEREST TO THEM.
[Illustration: [++] Decorative Image]

[Illustration: [++] Decorative Image]

CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
FOLLOWERS OF MAXIMILIAN OF MEXICO.--HAVRE DE GRCE.--ROUEN.--THE
CATHEDRAL.--INFLUENCE OF SACRED MUSIC.--HEART OF RICHARD I. OF
ENGLAND.--ANCIENT QUARTERS OF ROUEN.--MOUNT ST CATHERINE.--THE
SEINE.--NORMAN PEASANT GIRLS.--LISIEUX.--STOPPAGE AT MEZIDON

CHAPTER II.
LE MANS.--ANCIENT CITY BY NIGHT.--THE LUXURY OF BATHING.--CATHEDRAL
OF ST. JULIEN.--TOURS.--POITIERS.--ANGOULME.--BORDEAUX.--EN ROUTE
FOR BAYONNE.--A MERCANTILE DEFAULTER.--A LONELY REGION.--HOTEL
INTERIOR.--INGENIOUS INVENTION.--TABLE D'HTE
16
CHAPTER III.

THE CITADEL.--BIARRITZ.--HOW THE VISITORS KILL TIME.--EN ROUTE FOR

SPAIN.--ST. JEAN DE LUZ.--HENDAYE.--THE BIDASSOA CROSSED.--WINTER
IN SPAIN.--IRUN.--CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICIALS.--ST. SEBASTIAN.--THE
ALAMEDA PROMENADE.--THE PLAIN OF VITTORIA
34
CHAPTER IV.
BURGOS.--THE FONDA DEL NORTE.--THE ODOUR OF SANCTITY.--SPANISH
CHARACTERISTICS.--SCENES IN THE STREETS.--THE CONVENT OF LA
CARTUJA.--TOMB OF JUAN AND ISABELLA.--THE CASTLE.--THE CID.--THE
CATHEDRAL.--HOW PRIESTS MAKE MONEY

57

CHAPTER V.
AGAIN ON THE RAIL.--VALLADOLID.--THE FONDA DEL SIGLO DE ORO.--THE
COLEGIO MAYOR DE SANTA CRUZ.--CONVENT INTERIOR.--CHAMBER OF
HORRORS.--COLEGIO DE SAN GREGORIO.--THE CATHEDRAL.--SPANISH
CHARACTERISTICS.--THE THEATRE.--USE OF TOBACCO
80
CHAPTER VI.
EN ROUTE FOR MADRID.--TYPES OF NATIONAL CHARACTER.--GEOLOGICAL
CONNECTION OF SPAIN AND AFRICA.--A STATION IN THE
WILDERNESS.--AVILA.--A FUNERAL.--THE GUADARRAMA HILLS.--THE
ADUANEROS.--MADRID.--HOTEL DE LOS PRINCIPES.--PUERTA DEL SOL

103

CHAPTER VII.
MADRID.--GREAT ENGINEERING FEAT.--THE PICTURE-GALLERY.--PASTIMES
AND OCCUPATIONS OF THE MADRILEOS.--THE BATH AND TOILET.--QUEEN
ISABEL AND THE KING CONSORT.--THE VIRGIN'S WARDROBE.--THE ROYAL
ARMERIA.--REMARKABLE PAINTINGS.--CHURCH IN THE CALLE DE TOLEDO
122
CHAPTER VIII.
THE ESCORIAL.--ITS PRECINCTS.--SPIRIT AND CHARACTER OF THE
EDIFICE.--MAUSOLEUM OF THE KINGS OF SPAIN.--MELANCHOLY
GUIDE.--SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGES.--ROYAL REMAINS.--CHARLES V.--PHILIP
II.--THE PLAZA MAYOR OF MADRID.--QUEEN ISABELLA AT THE OPERA
142
CHAPTER IX.
A BULL-FIGHT.--THE ARENA.--THE SPECTATORS.--PROCESSION.--THE
BULL.--APPEARANCE OF THE MEN AND HORSES.--NIMBLE FOOTMEN.--THE
COMBAT.--SCENE OF HORROR.--THE BANDERILLEROS.--THE ESPADA.--DEATH
OF THE BULL
158
CHAPTER X.
TOLEDO.--VIEW OF THE CITY.--THE CATHEDRAL.--PROCESS OF
SMOKE-DRYING.--ALMANZA.--VALENCIA.--THE FONDA DE MADRID.--A
BENEVOLENT DOCTOR.--SPANISH MULETEERS.--HOW CONTROVERSIES ARE
SETTLED

171

CHAPTER XI.
VOYAGE TO THE BALEARES.--MAJORCA--PALMA DE MALLORCA.--OUR
APPREHENSION.--FONDA DE LAS TRES PALOMAS.--HISTORICAL
NOTICES.--DON JAYME.--THE RAMBLA.--COSTUME.--LANGUAGE.--CLIMATE.
--CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE
196
CHAPTER XII.
THE VALE OF SOLLER.--INTRODUCTION OF THE TELEGRAPH.--SUPERSTITION
OF THE PEASANTRY.--PRODUCTIONS OF THE ISLAND.--THE ROAD.--GUARDIA
CIVIL.--OBLIGING LANDLADY.--BRIDGE OF LA M.--BATTLE WITH THE
TURKS
219
CHAPTER XIII.
THE PORT OF SOLLER.--CONVENT OF LLUCH.--A LEGEND OF THE
MONASTERY.--CATHEDRAL OF PALMA.--REMAINS OF KING JAYME
II.--ATTRACTIONS OF THE BALEARIC ISLES.--MINORCA.--ITS CONNECTION
WITH ENGLISH HISTORY
237
CHAPTER XIV.
HOW TO STUDY SPANISH CHARACTER.--BULL-FIGHTS.--PROVISION FOR THE
SPIRITUAL WELFARE OF BULL-FIGHTERS.--FIGHT BETWEEN AN ELEPHANT
AND A BULL.--EXPEDITION TO THE CAVES OF ART
249
CHAPTER XV.
CONSIDERATIONS ON SANITARY MATTERS.--THE MEDICAL PROFESSION IN
SPAIN.--THE ART OF PACKING.--NIGHT SIGNALS.--EL GRAO.--CHASSE AUX
CALEONS ROUGES.--VALENCIA.--DRIVE THROUGH THE CITY.--THE
CATHEDRAL
267
CHAPTER XVI.
DEPARTURE FROM VALENCIA.--A RAILWAY JOURNEY.--DIFFICULTIES TO
WHICH TRAVELLERS ARE EXPOSED.--TARRAGONA.--SKETCHES OF ITS
HISTORY.--ARRIVAL AT BARCELONA

281

CHAPTER XVII.
BARCELONA.--HISTORICAL REMINISCENCES.--CASTLE OF MONJUICH.--THE
CATHEDRAL.--THE GRAND OPERA.--THE PLAZA DE TOROS.--THE LITTLE
ROPE-WALKER.--MONTSERRAT

295

CHAPTER XVIII.
ANCIENT BRIDGE OF GERONA.--THE POPULATION.--A FIESTA.--SEARCH
FOR AN HOTEL.--THE FONDA DE LA ESTRELLA.--LAST SIEGE OF
GERONA.--THE CATHEDRAL.--A FEW CONCLUDING WORDS ON SPAIN

313

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CHAPTER I.
FOLLOWERS OF MAXIMILIAN OF MEXICO.--HAVRE DE GRCE.--ROUEN.--THE
CATHEDRAL.--INFLUENCE OF SACRED MUSIC.--HEART OF RICHARD I. OF
ENGLAND.--ANCIENT QUARTERS OF ROUEN.--MOUNT ST. CATHERINE.--THE
SEINE.--NORMAN PEASANT GIRLS.--LISIEUX.--STOPPAGE AT MEZIDON.
It was almost at the last moment when, after having bid farewell to all
our friends, we found ourselves on board the steamer that was to take
us from England on an autumn tour to the sunny south. There was great
noise and bustle on deck; the friends of the departing passengers had
all left the ship, and in a few minutes the anchor was weighed.
It was yet early morning, and the sun was rising with great brilliance
in the east; but his appearance was only momentary, for while we were
rejoicing in the prospect of a beautiful sunlit day, he suddenly
withdrew from our sight, and hid his glorious visage behind a thick
cloud. So unexpected was his obscuration, that we could almost have
fancied he had covered his face with a veil to conceal from his sight
a scene of unexampled squalor and misery that lay heaped upon the
fore-deck. A band of fifty followers of the unfortunate Maximilian of
Mexico, who had landed in England a day or two before, were now being
wafted by a friendly breeze, not the less welcome that it came so late,
towards their homes, with simply nothing left to them but their lives.
Without other clothing than a few parti-coloured rags, which but a
short time back had composed the gay panoply of war, clinging to their
festering bodies, without that glory which, in the lack of every other
reward, is often sufficient to compensate soldiers for having left the
happy hearths of their homes and the loving eyes of their kindred,
these sons of fair-haired Austria were slowly returning, feeble in
body and broken down in spirit, to their fatherland, carrying with
them the mortifying recollection of a shameful defeat at the hands of
a distant, half-barbarous race whom they had despised, and with the
destruction of health for life, the loss of limbs, and the blighting
of hopes which they had once nourished. Such were the subjects, such
the colours, which composed this little illustrative picture of the
pomp and circumstance of glorious war. Those young soldiers, all of
whom were either suffering from wounds or prostrated by sickness, were
standing on the deck in haggard groups, chatting about their native
place, about the home of their youth, or about the plans which they
intended to carry out when they arrived there. A few were groaning with
pain, some of them suffering so severely as to be almost insensible to
what was passing around them. Others who were in a comparatively sound
condition were laughing and dancing, forgetting with the light spirit
of soldiers both what they themselves had endured, and the anguish of
their suffering comrades. The garb of all was in the most miserable and
tattered condition, showing how soon the gaudy uniform of the soldier
is tarnished in the tug of actual war. Falstaff's wretched band of
followers did not exhibit more diversity in the colour and fashion of
their habiliments than did these followers of an imperial prince.
One poor ragged wretch in a darkly stained red jacket, with a wisp

of clotted canvas round his head, lay on his back helpless, without
arms or legs, and totally blind. A cannon had burst close to him, and
inflicted on him those injuries which must render him henceforward
dependent on the bounty and kindness of others. I was informed that
his mental sufferings from seeing himself reduced to such a miserable
condition were so severe that they had partially affected his mind, and
some fears were entertained that he might never recover the use of his
faculties. His, in fact, was one of those cases in which mental eclipse
would almost be the greatest of mercies. It was sad to see the poor
fellow moving the stumps of his arms to and fro like fishes' fins, as
they appeared to me; while from time to time some rough comrade tended
him gently, and fed him like an infant.
These men, the followers of an emperor, were the intended regenerators
of a barbarous state, the agents of the bright spirit of civilization;
and what was their state now as they lay there, prostrate in filth,
overcome by sorrow, suffering from wounds, and overrun with vermin?
They were all swathed in the foul old clothes they had begged by the
way, or tricked out in faded remnants of old uniforms, some of them
spotted with blood, and others, that had perhaps belonged to officers,
covered with rusty patches of gold lace. It is always a sad sight
to see misery like this that one cannot relieve, and we were glad
when our eyes no longer rested on such illustrations of the pomp and
circumstance of glorious war. We came across them afterwards at Havre,
enclosed in a sort of sheep-pen at a railway station. The mob were
jeering at them through the railings, and the gentle passed them with a
sigh.
After a pleasant passage, we glided quickly into the port of Havre, and
landed amidst a jargon of bad English and worse French, the British
Cockney preferring to explain all manner of difficulties in a foreign
tongue, however imperfectly understood, while the cocked-hatted
individual whom he addressed manfully persisted in his endeavours to
make everything intelligible in his own peculiar mode of speaking
the English language. Here at Le Havre, all good little boys and
girls should remember, Bernardin de St. Pierre, the author of "Paul
and Virginia" was born; also Casimir Delavigne. Here, too, Henry
the Seventh embarked _en route_ for Bosworth Field; and close by is
Honfleur, where most of the new-laid eggs that one gets in London come
from. Two thousand dozen are despatched per week to England.
Delightful old Rouen, city of a hundred memories, sitting by the
winding waters of the Seine, which glide like memories away! Where
can we go now-a-days, in this blessed nineteenth century, to see a
city so complete an embodiment of the past? Perhaps Pompeii; certainly
not the boulevards, the gas-lit streets, and the flaming shops of the
generality of French towns. However, there before us is the glorious
old cathedral, the handiwork of our Norman ancestors, defying shocks,
storms, and time. The Gothic faade, the impression produced by which
is so imposing, is a miracle of profuse lace-work petrified; and the
dark towers and pinnacles, which rise high over all, are so richly
ornamented as to resemble filigree work.
We lift a heavy curtain, and facing us as we enter, motionless, on
a high stool placed in a corner, sits an awful creature, completely
draped in a costume of coarse black serge, with bent head deeply
veiled. It seems some living thing from a few low moans which issue
occasionally from underneath the drapery, but otherwise is without
form, though it can scarcely be called void. A pale skeleton hand
nevertheless now and then slowly turns from one side to another a tin

box full of copper coins. Throughout the live-long days, year after
year, sits this dismal-looking being, concealing, it may be, beneath
that dark veil and hood, some mystery which excites a painfully intense
curiosity as one stands in its presence amongst the tombs and gloom of
the old cathedral.
The grand Gothic arches are lofty and beautifully proportioned, meeting
above and lessening away into perspective, like the great avenue of
some old forest of an earlier world, with its stems and foliage now
turned into everlasting stone. The large rose-windows let in from the
day without floods of rich and mellow lights, colouring the dim, heavy
air with a splendid diversity of hue. The chaunt of gaudily-robed
priests rises upward with the pomp and incense of High Mass, and a
dark crowd kneels on the cold stones which cover the bones of ancient
chivalry. No language can describe the elevation of feeling which one
experiences as he treads these solemn aisles where generations of
worshippers have in succession raised their thoughts to Heaven. As
the organ peals forth its solemn notes we feel inspired by the spirit
of devotion, and are sensible of that diviner principle within us
which carries the thoughts of man beyond the bounds of time and space.
We have heard organs innumerable, but never have we listened to one
which produced such an effect as that of which we were sensible on the
occasion in question. A perfect storm of passion seemed to be swept
from the great pipes, and when that was succeeded by the soft strains
of the _voix cleste_, one felt as if he were yielding to the gentle
influence of some radiant presence, not of this, but of a better world.
When men can produce such music, we may naturally ask if the spirits of
the departed are near, quickening the soul of the unconscious musician
with a spark of the music-spirit of a higher world? This may be
considered by many as wild talk; but there are still some human beings
who, at least once in their lives, have felt a strain of melody fall
with entrancing power upon their hearts, inspiring diviner thoughts
than they had ever known before, and so subliming the feelings, that
for a time they felt a consciousness of their heavenly origin. He who
has never experienced an enthusiasm like this can have no soul for
music, but must be entirely of the earth, earthy--"only a clod."
Near the high altar the lion-heart of Richard I. of England was buried.
It is now in a very shrunken state, enclosed in a casket, and kept
in the museum. It was left as a legacy to Rouen, for which favour no
doubt the good inhabitants have been very grateful up to the present
hour. His body is in the undisturbed possession of the population of
Fontevrault.
Notwithstanding all the modern improvements which have swept away most
of ancient Rouen, there still remain some wonderful old quarters, where
the crazy wooden houses of centuries back nod towards each other, in
a general state of paralysis, across the dark and narrow streets. How
they manage to stand at all, leaning upon one another for support,
is a mystery; and why they don't sit down bodily upon their occupants
is a subject of painful speculation to those good people. It is most
interesting to wander in the nooks and corners of this solemn old city;
and if the visitor loses his way in the narrow old streets, he may
come unexpectedly upon some venerable remnant of antiquity. In many
parts every turn reveals some splendid relic of bygone days, of an age
of cross-bows, of processions headed by men-at-arms bearing naming
braziers through the dark streets, of gallant companies of splendid
dames, and flaunting cavaliers in slashed doublets, trunk hose, and
inconveniently long swords, all flashing and clanking in the glare as
they pass; of an age of night broils, when the clash of arms was heard

beneath the dark tower, grated window, and overhanging eaves. Within
that ancient palace, ploughed and seamed from gabled roof to the carved
monsters on the balustrades beneath, with one rich mass of florid
Gothic fretwork, armorial bearings, and quaint gargoyles, we might see
the cruel Cardinal of Winchester pacing to and fro in the oak-panelled
hall, fretting that the preparations in the square outside, for the
burning of Jeanne d'Arc, were proceeding so slowly as to make him late
for dinner.
Of course we are not going to describe Rouen and its wonderful
architectural remains, nor conjure up visions of mailed Norman chiefs,
nursed in war, whose unscrupulous will and iron hearts, backed by the
moral weight of great warrior prelates, enforced submission upon all
races between Normandy and the far East, from their stern old capital
at Rouen. Tempting as is the subject, we have no intention of entering
upon any disquisition regarding the vigorous race who founded the city,
or of describing the antiquarian relics of which it possesses so rich a
store.
It is pleasant to ascend the Mont St. Catherine, and look down upon
the fine old town, with its broken walls and ramparts, which have
witnessed the gallant struggles of the stout hearts of earlier days,
which opposed the onset of Henry V. of England and Henry of Navarre,
now overgrown with hoar moss or buried in labyrinths of modern streets,
with scarce a thought bestowed upon the past of those mighty chiefs
who in old times assailed or defended them--men who, by their deeds,
laid the foundations of modern history. It is pleasant to see and feel
the solemn air of repose or gentle majesty which hangs over the more
silent streets where still stand those time-honoured buildings, the
fortresses, palaces, and convents, with piles of toppling planks and
wooden turrets, witnesses of ancient story and actors in its varied
scenes. There, from the midst of the venerable city, spire up to the
level of the wood-crowned heights surrounding Rouen, the fretted
pinnacles of the cathedral towers, and beneath them the gables of
Gothic houses pierce the air, while afar off the silver windings of the
Seine, studded with green islets, lose themselves in the mist which
hangs in the distance, seaward.
In the city below died the simple-minded, heroic, and betrayed Maid
of Orleans. There, forsaken by his own sons, and his menials even, in
agony and neglect, William, the Conqueror of England, and of our Saxon
Harold, departed this life. There died also the great Clarendon; and
there Corneille and Boieldieu were born.
It is pleasant to look at all this from afar, but very unpleasant
to be in the midst thereof; for it is a remarkable fact, alike
observable in Cologne as in Rouen, that the more historical the
city, the more horrible the smells. Coleridge counted in the former
city a certain and distinct number of odours vile; we wonder to what
numerals his inquiring nose would have extended itself at Rouen. The
prevailing type of flavour in the latter city seems to be a compound
of extra-sour vinegar, stale slop pails, and burnt india-rubber. It
is also unpleasant to be ferried over a rapid river in a thing like a
worn-out gondola, with several holes in the direction of the keel, the
portentous effects of which the strenuous baling powers of two men with
a sardine box and a coffee cup could scarcely allay. It was, however,
observed of us before we embarked, by a funny friend who accompanied
us, and whose miserable puns often made us melancholy, that if we
trusted ourselves to such a craft we should be _in Seine_.

No one in these parts, excepting idiots or princes, being in the habit

of travelling in a first-class carriage, we started in a second (we
mean no pun) _en route_ for Le Mans, in the fresh and healthy society
of some young Norman peasant girls. No abominable chignon disfigured
the backs of their neat little heads, for there was no necessity
with them to shine with borrowed plumes. Their smooth hair was neatly
arranged beneath the small linen cap of snowy white, while a striped
kerchief was drawn modestly across the breast. "There is no joy without
alloy," however, and certainly the old peasant woman up in the corner,
with a bottle of red acid liquor and a stout staff of bread--the real
staff of life--guarding-like a halberdier the well-closed windows, did
not strike the eye as anything peculiarly attractive, excepting perhaps
at times, when, from the red acid which she occasionally imbibed, her
face took a sympathetic tone, and being completely encircled by her
large frill, produced an effect which a rather extravagant imagination
might regard as something like that of the setting sun in a nightcap.
The girls were young--_she_, doubtless, at some time or other had
been so too; but grey moustaches are not generally associated with
any distinct type of beauty in ladies. Notwithstanding the aforesaid
head-gear she certainly could not be pronounced _cap_-tivating as our
punning friend said and, wonderful to say, she knew it!
Our train passed through Lisieux, where Henry II. was married to
Eleanor of Guienne, and where the modern inhabitants are chiefly
employed in the manufacture of horse clothing and general flannelry.
Near this not very striking town, M. Guizot spends his summer months,
and in it, by-the-by, Thomas Becket passed his banishment in 1169.
About four o'clock P.M. our train turned us out high and dry, bag and
baggage, on to a lonely wooden platform in the midst of a dreary flat
tract of country, compared with which Cambridgeshire is extremely steep
and alpine.
"O sommes-nous donc?" asked we.
" Mezidon, m'sieu," said an official. "Deux heures d'attente."
We immediately left our luggage with this trusty man, set our watches
by the clocks of the _gare_, pulled our hats with determination on to
our heads, and walked desperately four miles straight along a dusty
high road, then turned round and walked four miles back; by which time
the train was ready to start again.
[Illustration: [++] Decorative Image]

CHAPTER II.
LE MANS.--ANCIENT CITY BY NIGHT.--THE
LUXURY OF BATHING.--CATHEDRAL OF ST.
JULIEN.--TOURS.--POITIERS.--ANGOULME.--BORDEAUX.--EN ROUTE
FOR BAYONNE.--A MERCANTILE DEFAULTER.--A LONELY REGION.--HOTEL
INTERIOR.--INGENIOUS INVENTION.--TABLE D'HTE.
At midnight Le Mans was reached, amidst a deluge of rain and an
insufficiency of street lamps. Gas, we believe, has found its way to
Jerusalem, but not to Le Mans; and yet Le Mans is a large and important
town, blessed with an enlightened and despotic government.

After settling ourselves, to our extreme inconvenience, in a vehicle

like an opera-box drawn side-ways by a horse and bells, we bumped and
jingled slowly on through long, dark streets, the houses in which were
all so large and gloomy that they looked like prisons, and in which
there appeared to be a general flushing of sewers.
Le Mans may or may not be the "trodden ground" our critics complain
of, but we are quite sure it was not so when we arrived there, for
not a living thing was seen in the great black town save a benighted
cat or two and one very ancient rag-picker. A more forsaken and
deserted-looking place could not be imagined--no, not even by
Daniel the Prophet, with all his experience of "the abomination of
desolation," &c.
The grey light of the skies showed us at last a great square opening
before us, with a lofty stone building like a war tower rising dark in
the midst. We stopped at an inn door in this square, and descended,
the opera-box making a vigorous plunge to assist us in the operation.
Repeated pulls at a cracked bell, which sounded dismally in some remote
depth of the old house, eventually produced the effect desired, for a
rattling of chains was heard, and then the heavy door swung slowly on
its hinges, sufficiently to admit of the protrusion of a man's head.
The head came out as far as the shoulders, and nothing more ghastly
could be conceived, as for a few seconds it remained there motionless
and isolated against the black background, like the decapitated skull
of some malefactor nailed to a gibbet, the face gleaming deadly in
the uncertain night-light. The dreary silence of the dark square was
broken only by the lonely cry of some distant watchman, pacing the old
streets here and there with a dull lamp, which served to deepen still
more the darkness beyond, whilst, high, gaunt, and spectral against the
dull grey air, loomed the fortress-like building. A gigantic lighted
clock was poised on a high tower, the long hands thereof making great
leaps of five minutes each along the dial, as if it were dozing,
and then suddenly waking and making up for lost time by desperate
strides. In fact, to anyone who had recently supped upon pork chops,
or to the cheerful mind of the late lamented Mrs. Anne Radcliffe, of
raw-head-and-bare-bones memory, this old tower and its clock might
have appeared as the Ogre Time, or some huge Cyclopean ghoul of night,
watching and gloating, with its burning eye, over the surely passing
hours of the thousand slumberers lying for a season sweetly unconscious
of the fleeting of life beneath, and counting each heave of breath
which as it passes must bring all nearer and nearer to its maw.
The waiter who belonged to the head before mentioned turned out to be
a most excellent young man, and, in his assiduous exertions to make
himself agreeable to apparently the first British traveller he had
ever beheld, danced about like an electrified frog. Indeed, we were
grateful enough for this very sprightliness of his, for it acted as a
corrective to the depressing effect of the entire establishment, which
was pervaded by an air of dull, forlorn gloom. The walls appeared to
be constantly in tears. The long cavernous passages and mysterious
corridors were made doubly dark by the sulky gleam of a consumptive
"short ten." The lofty bedrooms were provided with beds which had
too close a resemblance to four-post hearses, and their furniture in
general had too much of the faded grandeur of other days. The old
wooden staircases creaked audibly before we began to walk upon them,
as if some invisible ghost of a dead housemaid were waiting to show us
up to bed, and when we ventured upon them we found they were leaning
alarmingly on one side. We endeavoured as well as we could to keep in

the middle, but they were so unsteady that their movement produced a
sensation like that of mild intoxication or incipient sea-sickness.
We were not without dread lest, supposing the balustrades showed equal
signs of weakness, we might, if we did not hug the wall and coast along
it very carefully, be shovelled neck and crop into the abyss below. Can
anyone wonder, therefore, that in such a place we were grateful for
the sprightliness of our waiter, whose good spirits and lively antics
prevented us from indulging in depressing thoughts? Variety of any
kind is pleasing. Who has not heard of the gentleman who got into such
a depressed condition of mind from attending the debates in the House
of Lords and the burlesques at the London theatres, that, with the
view of obtaining a little beneficial change, he took occasional walks
in Brompton Cemetery, attended executions at the Old Bailey, or paid
frequent visits to an anatomical museum? It was the same gentleman who
was said always to carry an umbrella with an ivory death's-head as the
handle, who had a velvet coat made from a piece of his wife's pall, and
who took to singing the songs of Claribel.
Le Mans is a grand old town, stately, but mouldy and only half alive.
Throughout there is happily an absence of that white garish Parisian
element. No whitewash, gilded railings, or sculptured gewgaws offend
the genius of the spot. The solemn old houses and walls stand looking
down on the quiet streets as sadly as on that day when the last remnant
of the gallant Vendean army under Larochejaquelein, wearied with the
toils of long campaigns, was cut to pieces beneath them in the year
1793. The face of the old town seems as sorrowful now as when the
shrieks of dying women and children, remorselessly slaughtered before
it by the conquering Republicans, died away upon the air, on that day
when cannonades of grape and volleys of musketry swept through all the
streets, among a helpless crowd of the wretched wives and little ones
of the scattered Royalists, of whom ten thousand corpses lay red in
that awful sunset.
In the early morning we nearly frightened to death some good citizens
by bathing in the river Sarthe, and several crowded to the bank to
witness the last gasps of two insane victims to the love of ablution.
It was a fine warm day in September, yet the idea to them seemed
madness. However, this little adventure brought to light what Diogenes
had so long sought for--an honest man. As we were drying ourselves on
the river bank, beneath the shadows of the old cathedral on the height
above, a passer-by in course of conversation observed,-"_Pour moi, messieurs_, I detest water--never touch it--_ni chaude, ni
froide_."
Now we like this blunt truthfulness, so much better than the big talk
of some people respecting their tubs and baths, who yet never go near
them. We remember, upon one occasion, in a country house there was a
gentleman who was always talking about the luxury of "tubbing," and
whose constant refrain was, "What a brute a man must be who doesn't
tub," &c. Being the occupant of the adjoining room to us, we happened,
quite by accident, one fine morning, upon hearing a tremendous
splashing and dashing, to look through the key-hole, and discovered,
much to our astonishment, our friend standing up, half dressed, in
knickerbockers, shirt, and diamond pin, squeezing a sponge into a
tin bath, and shouting in a very loud whisper (which would have made
his fortune in an "aside" on the stage), as if overpowered with the
freshness of the water, "Oh! how delightful! By Jove, how cold! Ahi!
phew! a--h! oh!"

The cathedral of St. Julien is a grand, imposing Gothic structure, grey

with the hoar of age. Its lofty towers, which are so richly ornamented
that they appear as if covered with fretwork, hang at a great elevation
above the city, crowning a height. In it we found the monument of
Berengaria of Sicily, Queen of Richard I. of England, and the tomb of
Charles of Anjou.
Le Mans has the honour of having given birth to Henry II., the
first Plantagenet king of England; and we suppose we ought here to
mention, what every one on earth must know, that his father Geoffroi
always wore in his cap a sprig of gent, or broom, which grows
luxuriantly throughout Maine and Anjou, and hence the name of a race of
kings--Plante-a-gent.
From Le Mans we took the railway to Tours. Upon nearing that city we
passed an old red chteau, where Louis XI. shut himself up, dreading,
like Oliver Cromwell and many great criminals, daily assassination.
Gates within gates, castle within castle, like a remarkably strong
Chinese ball-puzzle; such is the interior. On a plain near Tours--an
old story--Charles Martel beat the Saracens in 731. No one writes on
Tours who does not say, "If the Saracens had beaten Charles Martel, we
should all be keeping harems, smoking tchibouques, and praying on bits
of square carpets, or, whenever we had a moment or two to spare, on
turnpike roads," &c.
After we had passed Tours the country was flat, ugly, and very
uninteresting. Poitiers, which we reached in due course, is a
picturesque, battlemented old town, built on the tops of precipices,
the sides of hills, rocks, and ravines, with green slopes, gardens,
and river. We say nothing about the Black Prince, Lord Chandos, and
King John, at the battle of Poitiers. We wonder, indeed, if they were
ever there; for was there not a man who once wrote a book to prove that
there had been no such person as Napoleon?
After passing Angoulme, at which we stopped for a short interval,
it became too dark to see or read, and we tried to sleep; but soon
discovered what a quantity of hitherto unknown and extraordinary bumps
and sharp angles the human form possesses. In spite, however, of our
discomforts, the train rattled on, and we arrived at Bordeaux. After a
good night's rest, the disagreeable effects of our journey disappeared;
and getting up fresh and active in the morning, we set out to explore
the city. But what did we see? Docks, _et prterea nihil_!
As we were taking our seats in the train for Bayonne, we perceived
in the next carriage to us, guarded by three gendarmes, a pale,
middle-aged man of gentle exterior, at whom several persons at the
carriage window were hurling execrations. Being unfortunate in the
management of his affairs, he had attempted to maintain his position
by means which brought him within the clutch of the law, and the
consequence was loss and ruin, not only to himself, but also to many
who had placed entire confidence in his integrity. Now, doubtless, he
regretted his folly, and formed many good intentions as to the future;
but, alas, several years must pass over before he can put them into
practice, and when he emerges once more into life, the world will laugh
to scorn the fine sentiments of a man out of jail, and, securely
mailed in the panoply of their own good luck,--we beg its pardon, high
morality,--politely refer him to an observation of Seneca's:--"Quid est
turpius quam senex vivere incipiens?"[1]
However, every proverb has its reverse, "Ogni medaglia ha il suo

reverso;" and against Seneca we can pit Mr. Charles Reade, who thinks
it "never too late to mend."
We were roused from our reverie by a voice exclaiming, "En voiture,
messieurs!" and at the same time the whistle screamed, the bell rang,
and that great leveller, the railway train, glided off. In a few
minutes the spires and masts of Bordeaux had passed away, and with them
every vestige of the bustle and clang of busy life. How strange it
seemed that in so short a time we should have dashed into the midst of
lonely regions where the tracks of civilization seemed all but lost!
Onwards we scoured, over the desolate Landes, over brown trackless
moor, and through the gloom of forests. The leaden heavens seemed
stagnant and dead, and indeed a ray of sunlight or gleam of warmth in
such a scene would seem but a mockery to the heart. On, through desert
places where the wild bird and solitary wood-cutter alone quicken the
deadness of the silent wastes which spread away in dark expanse to the
horizon. Far and wide no life is seen, and no sign thereof, save an
occasional group of wretched hovels buried in the recesses of the black
woods, which are perceived only for a moment through a storm-torn gap
as we fly along and then are gone, leaving the wilderness again in all
its dead stillness under the fading light of the dreary skies.
The lights of Bayonne at length gladly broke upon us as the evening
darkened, and in a short time we were rattling with horse and bells
through the heavy stone gates, and over the moats and drawbridges of
the city walls. The old narrow streets, with their tall houses covered
with balconies, lattices, and coloured blinds, were a foretaste of
those to be seen in Spain. The rows of lighted shops, beneath heavy low
arcades built of hewn stone, and supported by stout pillars, brown with
age, were all crowded with busy passengers, garbed with sash, velvet
breech, and bonnet. The bright cafs--filled with loungers, small
politicians, and trim waiters, with their hair mowed to the roots--were
shedding on the roadway floods of yellow light.
On we rattled, over roads not paved yesterday, if ever paved at all,
amidst bumping and jingling, forced to listen from time to time to
periodic fits of shocking language addressed to the smoking horses,
gay in coloured trappings, and trotting us merrily along. Now we dived
into a narrow alley, black as pitch darkness could make it. Then we
twisted out of it so sharply, round a corner, that, had our hair not
been carefully oiled, it would have stood on end, and emerged into a
wide street full of gas lamps, illuminated windows, and rows of bright
green little trees, trimmed so artificially that they had as little
resemblance to their natural growing congeners as those in a child's
Noah's ark. It was pleasant, after our dreary day's journey, to find
ourselves thus hurrying, in the brilliant flare of the night lamps,
through a most picturesque old town, over bridges from which we could
see in the rapid waters below the twinkling reflection of a hundred
lights, along streets in which we passed companies of soldiers marching
to the music of drums and bugles, and through busy quays all alive with
bustle and loaded with merchandise. In fact,
"The city gates were opened; the market, all alive
With buyers and with sellers, was humming like a hive;
Blithely on brass and timber the craftsman's stroke was ringing;
And blithely o'er her panniers the peasant girl was singing."
And "blithely" we eventually entered the Hotel * * *, and sat down to
a remarkably good dinner of fresh sardines, wild boar, _pat de foie
de canard_, and a dish of _beccaficoes_. "Our bore," the inevitable

Cockney across the table, fired off a sickly joke at the expense of
those little birds, to the effect that, if we had never yet eaten
_beccaficoes_, we ought-to-learn (_ortolan_). Now really! Oh! who can
minister to the "mind diseased" that produces such monstrosities?
The hotel was a great square house, with a wonderful collection of keys
on a board by the entrance door, as if they had been fired there like
grape-shot out of a gun. The passages and staircases were liberally
supplied by day with sand and saliva, and by night with cockroaches of
remarkable size. Hanging on the walls of the _salle--manger_ were
advertisements of bull-fights to come off in various towns of Spain,
and also others of various hotels in different countries. There was one
of a boarding-house in Weymouth Street, Portland Place, London, with
a picture of the same. Now we do not wish to set up as art-critics,
but merely state that we have once or twice in the course of our lives
had occasion to find ourselves in that salubrious district, but don't
remember noticing any detached house or Italian villa in a park, with
palm trees waving over it, and a plantain in full growth. There was
another picture of a hotel in Granada, with the Moors walking about the
streets and conversing with the waiters at the door, as if Abderrhaman
was still residing in Spain.
In the courtyard of our inn a fountain was playing, and a vine formed a
large shady arbour for smokers and idlers beneath. There was not much
to complain of, and notwithstanding the general smell of garlic, and
an odour resembling that of steamboat cabins, with which the bedrooms
were perfumed, we slept most comfortably for a short time with calm
consciences and clean sheets, gratefully manufacturing a proverb for
the occasion, to the effect that fine feathers make fine beds, to
say nothing of good housemaids. We even glided into dreams, in which
we held conversations with individuals of every possible complexion,
dressed in scarlet Scotch bonnets, velveteen jackets, broken out into
a nettle-rash of metal buttons, red sashes, breeches, and hose, in
Basque, Spanish, French, English, and all sorts of patois, all at once,
and with incredible ease, coherence, and velocity. We say we slept
most comfortably for a short time, and one must have been very deaf,
or stolid, or philosophical,--in a word, insensible to all sorts of
disturbance,--to have slept comfortably after 2 A.M. in such a place.
For diligence after diligence coming from somewhere or other, and going
in the same direction, rolled by every quarter of an hour immediately
underneath our windows, accompanied with loud shouts, cracking of
whips, and jangling of bells.
Between the quarters of the hours a gentleman and his wife enlightened
the entire hotel with a domestic wrangle in one of the rooms in our
neighbourhood, and at 5 A.M. some person or persons overhead, probably
experimentalising with a cold tub for the first time in their lives,
apparently found it impossible to restrain themselves from giving vent
to the natural exhilaration produced by the bath in what seemed, by
the trampling they made, to be an Indian war-dance. Added to this,
there was a clock in our apartment which struck six when it should have
struck four, and eight when it should have struck six, thereby becoming
a source of much anxiety to the half-dormant mind, torturing it with
vague speculations when it should have been at rest.
The bedroom bell was ingenious enough, going off like an alarum when a
knob of wood fixed in the wall was touched; and the invention would be
still more valuable if it would at the same time induce any servants
to answer it. As it was, the only chance, after prodding it for a good
quarter of an hour without any other result than a sore thumb and a

great deal of noise, was to seat oneself in an arm-chair before it

with the latest newspaper, or some interesting book, and, the elbow
firmly pressed against the knob, so to remain, if needs be, for the
whole afternoon until some one below was sick of the rattle, and
condescended to come and inquire the cause of the summons.
A _table-d'hte_ breakfast in places like Bayonne is very trying to
a delicate stomach, especially when an opposite lady is in the habit
of wearing a false nose, and when the gentlemen wear diamond rings
and very dirty wristbands. Individuals of excited imaginations may
possibly regale themselves with _potage pat d'Italie_, but to minds
of ordinary level it appears but as some mystic and not very inviting
fluid with things like boiled gentles in it. _Rognons sauts en
champagne_ is a dish also considered by the sanguine as something quite
unique, whereas a philosopher (at all events at so early a meal as
breakfast) is apt to connect that condiment in a general way with old
hats and hot water.
FOOTNOTE:
[1] What is more miserable than to see an old man just entering on the
practice of virtue?
[Illustration: [++] Decorative Image]
[Illustration: [++] Decorative Image]

CHAPTER III.
THE CITADEL.--BIARRITZ.--HOW THE VISITORS KILL TIME.--EN ROUTE FOR
SPAIN.--ST. JEAN DE LUZ.--HENDAYE.--THE BIDASSOA CROSSED.--WINTER
IN SPAIN.--IRUN.--CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICIALS.--ST. SEBASTIAN.--THE
ALAMEDA PROMENADE.--THE PLAIN OF VITTORIA.
When after breakfast we looked out of our window, we perceived on
the opposite side of the way a grim old castle, with little grated
windows sunk deep into its walls, like the eyes in a consumptive
face. And well, indeed, should that old building hide its eyes from
all creation, for did not its walls give shelter to the guilty trio
who planned within them the devilish scheme of the massacre of St.
Bartholomew,--the Duke of Alva, Catherine de' Medici, and her miserable
offspring, Charles IX.?
A walk about Bayonne brings to notice of course a great amount of
fortification, especially the citadel of Vauban, where Marshal Soult
and the Duke of Wellington fought very hard and sacrificed a great
number of the soldiers of their respective countries. Proceeding in
another direction outside the town, the tourist will come to a cemetery
where lie forgotten, mouldering in the dust of a foreign land, the
remains of the officers of the British guards who fell during the
fruitless siege of Bayonne. Down in a dim dell, amongst old trees
whispering a requiem in the breeze of falling night, we stood over
those solitary graves, near which there was no sign of life, and where
the brambles of the wilderness did their utmost to impede the tributary
footsteps of the two English pilgrims to this forgotten shrine of their

brave countrymen, on which the last beams of sunset threw what seemed
in imagination a bloody light.
On a fine southern morning, we climbed on to the top of a crazy
diligence, swinging in a very top-heavy and uncomfortable manner over
some very high wheels. The vehicle swayed to and fro in such a way
that the last carriage of an express train on the narrow gauge would
appear immovable compared with it. The _banquette_, with its hood,
in which we were travelling for pleasure, seemed quite overburdened
with politeness, and bowed in the most humble manner to everybody and
everything it met. We were now on our way to Biarritz, a place we
reached after an hour's drive in which there is nothing very remarkable
to attract the traveller's attention.
Biarritz is a town situated on the shores of the Bay of Biscay, and
consists chiefly of hotels and boarding-houses built on rocks. It is
peopled generally by emperors, waiters, hawkers of spurious Spanish
goods, and very idle ladies and gentlemen. Creatures like mermaids,
with their extremities encased in mackintosh, are seen nearly all day
long sporting about in the waters which break upon the yellow sand, and
dancing quadrilles in the sea with very odd-looking fish of the male
gender, also swathed in curious garments, which cause them at a little
distance to resemble very badly rolled-up umbrellas, or an imperfect
class of sausages. Barring the bathing, the amusements of Biarritz,
or Biarits, as some of the natives write it, are very dear and rather
silly. People revolve nightly on their own axes to the solemn strains
of a horn band in a large casino, with expressions of countenance
as serious and business-like as if they were undergoing a course of
rotatory exercise recommended by their medical advisers as a stimulant
after the chills of the bath; while the day is consumed, one hardly
knows how, except it be in flirting, aquatics, scandal, abuse of one's
neighbours, or in buying from gaudy coffee-coloured Spaniards trumpery
which, under no conceivable circumstances, could the most ingenious
mind ever turn to any account. There is certainly grand food for the
eye whichever way it may turn, "whene'er we take our walks abroad," for
the long jagged line of the Spanish mountains is seen, now clear, dark,
and sharp, now wild and storm-wrapped, rising loftily from the far blue
main; and there is always playing on one's cheek, or with the flowing
tress of many a pretty damsel, the pure strengthening air of the Bay of
Biscay, sweeping with untainted breath from across the dark, wild waves
of the rolling Atlantic. From the summits of the various sea-worn rocks
and pinnacles which jut out from the land may be seen beautiful views
of the white amphitheatre of Biarritz, formed by clusters of villas,
casinos, and bathing pavilions along the curving shore, or piled on
gentle hills, rising one above the other in picturesque confusion, with
their sunny walls shaded here and there by green shrubberies, or gay
with flaunting banners waving over shining terrace and grassy slope,
the stately Villa Eugnie of the Empress commanding the whole. In front
the restless waves are ever rolling in on the yellow sands, in their
ceaseless chase from the Bay of Biscay, spread out so broad, blue, and
beautiful; while to the south the distant skies seem walled up by that
grand dark chain of the Spanish mountains, towering through clouds and
tempests in wild and lofty grandeur, or melting away on the far horizon
into the heat of the golden day and the spume of the tossing sea.
The people at Biarritz seem to be in a chronic state of masquerade. In
some the disease takes a severe and malignant form, in others simply
that of a mild and harmless lunacy. Very fierce and dirty individuals
prowl about the streets, in what is popularly supposed to be the
Spanish costume, namely, shabby velveteen inexpressibles, jackets

covered with a perfect eruption of buttons and bobbins, and the

calves of their legs swathed in linen bandages, as if they were in a
general state of poultice. These individuals have dreadful long Spanish
knives to sell, knives which, when any Englishman is so infatuated
as to decline buying Birmingham cutlery at Biarritz, they grasp in
a very portentous manner, opening and shutting them with an air of
determination which is most alarming to the weak and nervous.
"Who comes in foreign trashery
Of tinkling chain and spur,
A walking haberdashery
Of feathers, lace, and fur?"
Who indeed? the poet might well ask on the afternoon parade at
Biarritz; and it is not at all certain that the people know themselves.
There are gentlemen in short white jackets made of blanket,
lemon-coloured tights, and Napoleon boots, or in knickerbockers and
top-boots, Scotch plaids, and very tall hats, with brims so narrow as
to be rather problematical. The British traveller is, of course, to be
seen there, as everywhere else, with a beard in that state which one
does not know whether to attribute to neglect or intention.
The ladies simply _dress at_ one another, and the extravagance of their
costumes can only be conceived by minds of the calibre of Gilray, or
by such as can picture to themselves Paris fashion gone mad. We saw
one lady in short skirts and Hessian boots, with little bells for
tassels. The dress itself was so stiff with embroidery and needlework
that it would have made a capital diving-bell; and the jacket was so
profusely embroidered with lace that it seemed made of solid gold.
Nearly every lady finds it necessary, for some at present inscrutable
reason,--which, however, like other mysteries will some day be made
known,--to walk about with a slender white wand with a nail at the end.
What are these sticks? Are they fetishes, or are they connected with
any form of superstition. Why are they adorned with nails? And for what
reason are they carried like toothpicks between the finger and thumb
of a tight kid-gloved hand? We should also like to ask why do young
English ladies at foreign _tables d'hte_ always appear as if somebody
was perpetually on the point of whispering something improper to them?
Their frightened air, indeed, as one out of common politeness prepares
to address them with some commonplace remark, is so infectious that it
is a wonder one does not fall plump into a perfect mire of mistakes and
_gaucheries_, a miserable martyr to the cause of amiability.
It certainly is a marvel how people manage to thrive on the fare
provided at these entertainments,--ghostly entertainments, we may call
them,--for there, as surely as the clock tolls forth the hour, appears
the spectre "cock and salad," which, with the perversity of fate, ever
haunts the path of the European tourist, to scare and depress his
appetite. The old philosopher, in observing
" ,"[2]
m s
hav had sm h
ic vla
i 
h a
-
ims  md
civiliza
i, ad a
ic laly  Biai
z _
abls d'h
_;  i
ma as 
a
ally a bvl
ca
 h c ld h d  i
h
 aimi
y day a
 day
h sam la
 l  l
-am a
--_
a
l'a cha d_, i
 h

 b calld--aa
ly s
id  i
h a

all cadl
 iv i
a lav ;
h sam c i s a hids 
ld dy   (sbi)  hich
h s  as mad;
h sam _da x
a x ch x_, hich s d s maiic
i
hy, b
h d cd


 sad ali
y csis
maily  _ch x_ ad
h bs  sm small
scims 
h a
hd
ib? Th
h _il
s d b _--ca
hy
b mad  ld d-ma
s?--ha
lab  m s
 d b h ca
s ad
h "
 slid lsh
 ml
!"
A

hs as
mic vls  a s 
 m
a Elish
a
amilias, i
h mamma ad da h
s. Wh  say Elish,  d 

ma mda
ly Elish, b
dih
ad a lly Bi
ish--Bi
ish
i
h dd l
 l
hic, s
id sl-cmlaccy ad al
s ii
y v vybdy ad vy
hi 
Bi
ish--Bi
ish i
ha

myd bvi s
a
  mid hich dis
i ishs
h ii scims

h _ va ich_ sh m Albi. Th mamma ad da h
s,
,
a Bi
ish
 a d, as
hy si
vld i a d ll a
msh 
Claham 
ili
y, s
ivi

hi
ms

 aa asy ad ac l
"a
mals ad i cmay." B
i si
 
hs la dabl dav s,
i
is a diic l
i

 dcid hich is abl
 i
ss--
h
alami 
s  l dav i
 a
ad di
la
ly,
hldi
hi
ivs ad 
s li
 s, ad a i-lass b
 a
i ad
h mb, i
h
h s

h is 
s

chd

hi
 lls

si, di i
h li

l i i
i aay i a
sc
iv;  hs
ly a
c sca
chi
hmslvs i
h a s,
lai  avy i
h a
i a

h a l is
 idi
hi
m
hs

h x


h a
  a l

-bx, ad h
his
y

a
i a ha
y da h
 a
 m
h i-basis. As 
h
_j s
 mili _ l
al
ab
,
ha
a
ms
_
abls d'h
_ sms
i
 U
ia ad mih
m a ic
bach  s
dy 
h Rm
La .
Ba
hi s  d i
h hl mi ad a
, ad
h m
hd
is i
his is. W al
d acss
h sads m
h ba
hi
cabi
s, a dis
ac  a h dd ad i
y yads, ba
d, li

sm aci
ia i  a ilima. W a a
i
h hi

li lds  a l am
smbli a Kih
Tmla's cla
,
ad a a

dd i s
a
 by
 m lld  i il-cl
h. Wh 
hav aivd a

h bi

h sa,   a

da
s v
 i i
h s

 a d
h has 
lv ichs, ad  a cmmdd by
hm


a li

l a
 i

h hll 
h had ad   i
ca lly


h
 
h had. This dal bi saly accmlishd, 
cmmc a li
 li

l dac had-i-had i
h  
h ba
hi
m i
h sc 
h cd--i
may b
h hl
--
h
bach. A
 j mi  a 
ims as hih as ssibl, i d

avid vy av as i
aachs,
h
 ba
hi a

da
s i i
a
 Msi 's hal
h, ad h h cais himsl--_cmm
s

-il?_--ad ially
hy lad s bac
by
h
is    is,
ad 
h i
s 
hi
s, acss
h sady lai, s
ill i  ll
vi 
h assmbld  lac,

h   s
y bxs  cabi
s

h ad aad, h  ass i a vy dssd cdi
i

h h
h c
  a la cc s  sldidly a

id ladis
ad 
lm. I  a i l c
, has a ld lady 
 may smil
bladly a
s as  ass, as i
 ca
la
 s    sca m

h ils  hav c 
d. I  ish

 i
h hihs

_md_, a slih
al
i-s
ic
 ca is csidd a la
ad
s l accmaim


h ba
h.
Y  ladis a cd c
d sily i

h a
 i
h sam ma
by
h m i mac
i
sh, ad 
hs ccasis
hy sm

dis

hmslvs i
h ms
lay l ma. Thy  c s d 

lc

his 
i
y  adi
hmslvs i
h
h ms
si la
cs
ms, ad l
i
hi
ics,
 ss, ad s
a ha
s vy
ady s. Thy v 

hi hads, ad 
hi 
 dsi


hi 
immdia
ly i vy h
a
,
 da
h bld m
h
bai. W d, hv,
 ba
h i    a
iv s
yl, ad
 d i
vy lasa

 al
i

h sa a

h P
i x, ad sim

, a aay m ba
hs ad ba
hs, 
il  c ld dis
i
h
 sa. W sam as

h
 si
 cas hich m
h 
ac


h li

l bay, h
h b ya
a
 s 
s s as a sa;
ad m
h bsm 
h d,  hich  clid,  jyd
h
sldid aama 
h dis
a
Pys hich    aidd 
s
had c d s. I
is lasa

 s
ad  ay 
h islad c
s 
Biai
z ad ha
h a
avs bl dash amids

h cavs
hy
hav h 
, s di li
 a a
illy. I
is am si, h 
is 
i a ci
ical md,
 m
a  y Bi
  ad
h a


h _
abl d'h
_, h
lls y li

l ic
lis

h c


ha
his cl, bi valical, had   ss amd Ma

h, Ma
,
L
, ad Jh, ad h a i
h as b, calld him "Th Ac
s 
h
As
ls." B

h ms
lasa

hi  all is
 id 's bac

d, a
 a sj     days, 
his s
id li

l
,

h
h is s m ch ivli
y ad, c i s as i
may sm,  lss
d lss.
_Eh bi,  s vici i_ ll s
a
d  Sai! W lc
d 
sh ld aiv a
B s a

lv a
ih
. Hv (as a Saish
ailay accid
is a a l aai), b

 la

ha v. Th
h
ls  ld,  d b
, all b clsd, ad  sh ld id  slvs i
a
h a a
ad si
i. W i
h sa
 ds
ad a d 
Saish, b

h l a
B s a m ch i
h sam dicam
, as

hy hav a a
is  dialc

hi . Ms

h silv my

h c 
y is bad, ad
h
s  h
ls  _das_ i Sai,
a as _d as_ (
h a
h 
his bih
ida as    y id)
i
s i Elad  ac
isi a li

l hamlss x

i 

avlls,--i ac
, _d_.
W assd S
. Ja d L z, a 
mbl-d ld
 
h bds

h sa, i hs ca
hdal
h Gad Ma  as maid
 Maia
Thsa, da h
  Phili I.  Sai, ad i
h a
d h s
i
h s a
h hay c l livd  a 
ih
 s i  
ial
ba
i
d. Sm ay  iss
h m 
ai  Bay

a, d hs
sls a sii
d bad  asa
s c chad
hi mis i
h
ls,

h ds  hich
hy had lashd
hi l-bladd
ivs.
Sm id i
his ac

h ii 
h bay
. Th
 is ihabi
d
by hal-ishs, a  sldis, ad sm c
ids.
Wh  aivd,
h l s a

h s
a
i  s
ill
al
i v

h c
accid
hich had ll ih s
all
h calc la
is
ha

Nal III. has mad as
 his dyas
y. Th sa is ally vy
 h a

h 
ac

h li

l hab ; ad 
h ccasi i
s
i, as
h Emss as ladi i a small ba
m h s
am,

h ba
as s
cls
 lad. Th Emss ad Pic b
h s
 c


,
h  sh
i as m ch as as csis

i
h a m
h l 

a
, "Sav my s!"
h 
h, "Sav my m
h!" This as as i

sh ld b. E i ad
h hi

h imial
h  savd, b


h  il
as dd.
W sh
ly achd Hday,
h las
Fch
, ad
h Bidassa,
hich h divids
h
 c 
is, as cssd. Th a sm
l samy lads visibl a
l a
 b

h sa ad
h bid
v
h iv, ad   b
amhibi s ca
s  ld,   ld
imai, v
 
hm. I 1813,
h D
  Wlli
, hv,
s add his amy
 ad
h h
hm;
hby s ccdi i b
h
as
ishi Mashal S l
ad
a
i his si
i.

W x
aivd a
I ,
h is
Saish
, i a s
m  sl

ad ai, ad i a h ica  id. I ac
, i
had aid, ad bl
a
 s ad small ams, alms
icssa
ly 
h las
  days
a
Bay ad Biai
z, ad
h a
h s
h  

h s 


h a
h. Pl  sm isc
abl as 
 Sai 
h
i
. Thy had s ly b

 mai i
h mild ad v clima

 
  T ay;  i
h saml  a
m   av d
i
h as s sd
 b ial,
h Fa
s ad cmm ss dd s
aais
xim
alisi i
h   misabl bdis 
h Saish
i
! T i
 amids

h dams,  a
h 
s ( dam is a mild
xssi idd),
h vil
ids ad
h shl
lss lais 
h

h  Sai  ld,  acy, b s ici

 sd a Lalad i

a cs m
i. Wha
c
i
 ld d c  a dlica
 Elish
mal,  ca
a

m

 dcid     a
hi
y. W d b


, hv,
ha
Svill, alcia, Gaada,  v Bacla, i
h

hi s y s
is ad av abl si
i, may b m av abl


h ivalid, ad ml

h icy is  i
 
hy ca ach him;

h h, alas!
h s
 da
h ill s
i
 d i
s vic
ims v
d am ad adia
s
is. T , i
sms a

ims as i da
h mih

b
 chd i
h a
may ms, ad b s add
 d
h
a
al bl; b
ha
ma

 a  mm
s l i a day ld? O
ha
val  is a
h ya amids
a sa 
 bls--a ca 
ils
ad cas? Wh
h   li b a dam  s   bliss, i
m s

sh
ly d. I
h m, hy sh ld  ca
 l i
? I
h
la

, i
is li

h  jy s li-h  
h b

ly,--'
is
 a
  s s
, h
h  ha
has ba
 i
sl 
. Th
bl shi ls  s mm, v as  bd v
hm, ad, i
h,
ad di; ad
h m sic  a ma's his ai
s aay v as i
is


d. All
ha
is m
al, all
ha
is lvly, m s
ass aay i

da
ss, ad
h bjc
s    ds
ac
is m s
disaa i

h shi
i sads  Tim!
A
I 
h _ad as_, h a all m s
achis ad im
ic, a
s sd
 b vy xac
i, ad  is ad 

 l
css 
axi s as 's 
ma
a x a l mbd, ad  mmad, ad ma ld
by
h is  
lm h sm

hi

ha
sm
i ad a
i
alic a a
 dliss
ha claliss. S,
a
i adva
a

his advic,  immdia
ly    aival calld  a ady-mad
ad vaca
smil, ad ass md s ch a ai  chalac,
ha

h
_ad as_ m s
hav
h h
  s
idly adlss   
sal 
y. O sha-yd li

l icial, hv, 
i

ds
adi h ay sa ma c ld
avl ab
E  i
h a ashi
aaa
s, sizd dily    id's idia- bb ba
h i
h
a li

l l  ci
y. This cvi
a
icl, as all
,
is l
d  d
h ds; ad
h li

l ma cs 
ly cam


h ccl si
ha

h l
d divisis m s
cs
i

 sm
id
 ial machi, vidd i
h a c
ai  mb  bals,
h
xlsi  hich  ld bl 
h Q   Sai ad h Miis
y;
ad
ha
,  c s,  a c l  dai vl
iis
s. I
as
i
h sm diic l
y
ha
 s ccdd i cvici
h im
a

icial
ha
h as i , ad
h   alld
 cd.
Th ai s
ill dscdd i ca
aac
s,
h id bl i
h s
aid
vilc, ad vy
hi l
d dam, di
y, ad d ll, as  c m

d
h ailay caia. H  ashly id  a s
c
 Saish i
h c
lss ma   h is  his   h
"Wdcc
" is s ddly sh
d i a la
a
i, viz., sh

i
h
ys, ii i
h ai, ad
 s
i
 Pvidc.

"_N s cambia cchs B s?_" asd .

"N, s," asd
h  ad.
W s
aid all  
h dsi  cvsa
i i
h
ha

 c
iay, as vai, a
, ad i
abl,  i
is said, "S
a
ba  hsbac
, ad h ill id
"--a 
lma 
s ally
m
id i li
 sci
y. B
   a
,  ma
 i
a ld
 l, h  ish
 ai   Fch  I
alia, v
 addss
ss  a s
 asc
, v
 ma
 li is
ic xim
s 
had-l
i m. I
is b


 sil 
a idivid al i
h a mild
ad a
h a
 s c 
ac 
h  s i s
i. W avid
idivid als  imsi sc, ad s

h mbl li

l m h
sli
i
 cs, ad, i ssibl, l  dlica
 cs
i

i.
A i
y  ma i sc
acls,  is
ac, h is i
 M

 hal
h, ad h has a bx by his sid lablld, "_Fail--H il d
i d m _," is a d s bjc
; i ac
, ay  h is
 bl

 b as
ishd a
ay
hi.
As  c
i d   j y i
 Sai,
h l s s 
h Pys
s da
ly v
h sa, ad avd aay i l
y d la
is  val
ad m 
ai, i
h
hi sls 

hi s mmi
s cl
hd i 
ds,  d

d h ad
h i
h 

y Siss-l
i c

as,
hil
h h
h di
i sc d a s
ay s bam ccasially  d
i
s ay, ad v ad a ll i a lash  ly a
ha

h ld

i
s 
h a
mal ds.
A
l
h a hih ci
adl ad sm

-cs
d hills cam i

vi, l
i d  a cl s
i    
s  ld h ss,
ishm's h
s ad vssls,
h mas
s ad sails  mcha
ca
,
hil hi
ashd Bas  c

as  s i all dic
is i

m
hic
lia, ad aai vy bih
ad cla. This as
Sa Sbas
ia. H
h 

h sad  Madid s
 ba
hi
i
h s mm sas, h
h shs 
h li

l bay a
d i

a c
cam 

s, avilis, ad ba
hi-machis.
Th Alamda mad is cdd  a
s i
h h dds  l
i ai
Bas  cs
ms. Th b ll-i ad
h
ha
 a als
av i
 s
s 
h ihabi
a
s ad visi
s.
Th ai am 
 ba
y m
i
h ams

h mals 
his i
smi-baba s Cl
ic ac ccasially
m
s
h assi
avll

mai a day 
 i
his c i s ad lasa
ld
.
All sms s ac l  i ad a d Sa Sbas
ia,
h sly
i
 hich is b
 ly by
h a  dis
a
avs,
ha
i
is
diic l

 cj  
h scs  caa hich, a

h da


h Fch ais by
h Elish,

lac h--
h  sh 
hissi sh
,
h cash  alli h ss, ad
h shi
s  m ad
child dyi mids
lams ad sm
! Wh ca imai
h cdi
i 
a
 iv 
 d 
 sldis, maddd i
h l s
, s ccss, ad
i? Elad has li s aals i h his
y, ad ll may h ss
jic i
hi Elish bi
h; b

h hav b
ims h dvils
mih
hav jicd ad als 
a

h dds d by Elishm,
ad
h day 
h sac
 Sa Sbas
ia as  
hm.
A
 a sh
s
a  cdd ads aai
h h smb
s, c
y dils, ad vda
vallys. W s
acss dy ad
aid lais, i
h
h l li 
h 
ii Pys b di
hi
hiz, ad as
d l ld villas, ms
ly i  is, b il
i
h

chi
s ad cais  c
y m 
ais, ad ihabi
d by ild-l
i
m ad m. Th lashi ai dscdd ad
h id his
ld as 
dashd
h h
h s m ad mis
, i
h a
c
s, ld cas
ls, ad
majs
ic
s lmi i
h mids

h li
 c
h hs
s. Th-"O l las
al 
h d,
Th cl ds a clad aay;
Ad
h li s s  c m l
s d
U
h dazzli day."
Wh lih
c m sh    a
h,  l
d  ad bhld hih
vhad b
li cas ad d
achd b lds  c
, s sdd
aa
ly s isc ly
ha
a ba
h mih
disld
hm m
hi
l
y shlvs, ad dash
hm d i  i 
h assi imis
ba
h. O
ha
sii iacl si
s a m ldi cas
l, h
Rdic
, las

h G
hs,
as
d
h lvly La Cava, h cs

him his sc
 ad his li.
Th lais  i

ia a
las
aad sad b s, idis
ic
ly
s i
h da
i
ilih
, i
h a l a aib hai v
hm.
Oh!
h ssiv ha
 Sai! Oh!
h s ca
i ad s l
y ai!
B

h Saish clima
 is 
 s bjc

 a
chas, ad  ca
ly say ih
lad  
ha


a l's c sl, viz.,
  , ad had b h
 d  as. Li
 Jb,  had  
cm
s, ad 
a
ly had caid i
h s a s

a
-ca



his bili lad!
FOOTNOTE:
[2] Ma is a
ally a bvl
ca
.--ANTONIN.
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER I.
BURGOS.--THE FONDA DEL NORTE.--THE ODOUR OF SANCTITY.--SPANISH
CHARACTERISTICS.--SCENES IN THE STREETS.--THE CONENT OF LA
CARTUJA.--TOMB OF JUAN AND ISABELLA.--THE CASTLE.--THE CID.--THE
CATHEDRAL.--HOW PRIESTS MAKE MONEY.
W aivd a
B s i
h mids
 a h ica  ici id--id

ha
as m asily l
by s
ha i
ill b ds
d by  
ids i Elad, h cli

h bs
ia
 
i 
h icssa

ha
 Sai. Th cld 
ha
Oc
b ih
, a m i
s
ha a
diay mid-i
 ih
i Elad, as mad m sv by
h


absc  all cm
s, ad by
h i
 s aaac 
h a
ivs
h shiv ad sha
 all v
h c 
y, lld  i
 ia

ic
b dls  day, li
 dizs  z is. Th a l
h lav  is ad lal ais
ca
s i Elad bca s i
is

h is
 Ail, al
h h, s may b 
h  d; ad  hav
 d b

ha
sval    ids  ld hav had s aay  slvs
i hi
 ja a
als ad li jac

s bca s   i Sai.

N,
h is  as
ha
, bca s a ma is clv ad _a ai
_

a
all
ha
ccs
ha
s
a
  li
 hich Gd has calld him
i
h Bi
ish m
lis, his m
lical ad
hmal ass
is
sc
i 
h c 
is a
 b blivd i svdly by his
ids.
Mahil, "B s!" as s ddly sh
d by
h  ad 
h
ai,
ad  l
i 
,   d  had aivd a

ha
s
a
i. Ab

a mil  as
h a
ca
hdal, s ll 
ayd by   David
Rb
s, lmi b s hs
ly i
h dim lih

h a
y
m. W dscdd 

h la
m hal asl, ad axi s ab


h 
ma
a x, hil
h
ai his
d , lavi s al, li

s
add mais  a 
 sh. W l
d ab
s, ad sa
c
h i s lidi ab
h ad
h i
h la
s lami i

h da
ss, shalss ms ad 

h ys i di
y cl d
bla

s--
hi hads x
i ishd i
h s
l ha
s ad 
h
ma
ic ad c i s a.
A small cd ad ally a
hd a d s as  sa
   ics 
baa, li
 Mai s am
h  is  Ca
ha, ad
h vybdy
ba

al
a
c i
h
h ms
ih
 l vlci
y ad alami
s
s. Th ch s, 
vy li

ha
 vil dms i sm id
a, c
i d  sval mi
s, ai i
h a
vi  ad
s ch aidi
y
ha
 c ld 
ma
 v
h ilds
 ss a

hi
mai, bca s, amids

h babl  ds 
hi a
is c ld b
dis
ic
ly sild 
. Hv, dic
d  s s by
h scial
vidc hich sids v Bi
ish
 is
s,  v
ally mad
a dsa
 sl
i
 ll   l a ad cli
 i


h
las
. Flli
hs
ac
ics,   d  slvs i a sh

im
sa
d i a la
d vhicl, ic
 all sis, hich had sm
smblac
 a schlm  hls, i
h all
h cadls 

.
I
his cvyac  had
h  
h adva
a 
h i
 
d
sci
y  a m
ish 
lma i
h sadals, cl, , ad ha

smd
 b a l haiy dssi-. N,  hav 
 had 

h d   sac
i
y, b
i
h d  by hich
his hly s as
accmaid as
h a
icl i s
i,  m s
say  did'

hi

m ch  i
.
Th vhicl i hich   sa
d s
a
d i
h a sh
, a cac
,
ad a j
, vy s ddly, ad,
 ay  a li

l abs
, i
h

s ici
ai. A
 a

li v
h ms
a l avm
,
as
y, a 
b ildis, ad
h h da
, a, shady s

s,
ill mia
d a
l i
vals by a mis
y lam s  acss m h s

 h s,   ladd a

h d 
h Fda dl N
.
A

his j c
,
h ac

ha
i
his li cidc i
his
as
hy sh ld b, is
ad  s sici 
his as
hy a, is a
mis
a
, as cd  s vy dcisivly;  had ,  dscdi
m
h mib s, 
csidd i
a
al
ha

h sh ld b a s

 hich
 lac
h 
, is
ad  adi i
as ssibl
ha


h mih

b ,--scially i i
as a
all  id,--
sh ld 
hav all havily 
i

h ad, ad b smad all
v i
h di
ad mi.
A
 hldi 
a had l  small cis,
h s simliyi ma

s
by l

i
h mib s-div hl himsl,   sc
d i sl
cssi,--
h l a i is
,--by a
ai    damsls,
ad a vy b ld ma, bai cadls,
h h idi assas
all hi
ashd,  cld s
 lih
s  s
ais,
h alls  hich
smd
 b cvd i
h ay am 
 blac
-b
ls, 
il 

 shd i
 a small d bl-bddd m, als hi
ashd, ad

add i
h vil
ly cl d i
s  sai
s ad ma
ys, i
h
ha
aad
 b i
s izzi ad xldi 

h bac
s

hi hads. W 
h s
d i
h a c   sm da
ly d
ad a
h m ddy-l
i l id calld chcla
, hihly lav d
i
h ha

 s is
h ms
a s s
hi i
h ld,--ciam.
A ic  blac
bad, ad a a
 sm
hi hich mih
c hav
b b

, b
 smbld ailay hl-as,  chs, as

h iv
 s. Hal  a cld bid,  a scis,  sh ld imai,
aly x
ic
, smd as li

l calc la
d
 las
h a
i

as
h bad, b

, ad chcla
. Ths l x is  lacd 
a chs
 das,
h bi 
abl; ad as  chai c ld b
 d  s ici
al
i
d
 ais s
 a  lvl i
h
hs
dlicacis,   cs
aid
 s
ad a
  as
.
Th cssi  c i s lls had  hal
d, ad dlyd
i
 a smicicl a d s, d b
lss
 a
ch
h c
s 
his
as
ishi ba 
   a
mids ad m
y s
machs. T
as
 

h hal-bid as a
c
 cm

h ccl si
ha

h  l
y
i Sai is d chily  avl. Th blac
-yd y  ladis h
lid  d s dily hil   ali  slvs, as i
 
 scims  sm ma
abl ac  m,  ihabi
a
s

h la
J i
 dd i

hi h
l,  a
l
h s


i

i by
h b ld mal, ad   l
al i
h

h y
chical sai
s,
h hi
ashd alls, a c l  i
bds
ads,
 chais, ad
h chs
 das, hich s
ill ad
ba
h
h ih

h mais 
h viads
ha
had md  
ii
ia
y ba 
i
h lad  Sai. Th ild cy 
h a
chma
mai
h h
h a, sil
s

s,
h dis
a
cla 

h a
ca
hdal bll s di
h h , ad
h mis
y mlih

s
ami
h h
h casm
, av a c lia iish
   vl
xics  m ad
his; ad s
 bd--
 a sl c sd i
h
all s
s  imssis, bl d ad  i i
 ach 
h 
h
al

 
h mid.
H   i Sai; Sai,
h lad  his
ical mmis--Ibia,
Cl
ic, Phicia, G
, Ca
haiia, ad Rma. Fm
h Phicias
sa Cadiz, Svill, Malaa, ad Cdva. Fm
h G
s, Rhdias,
ad Za
as, as Rsas i Ca
al a,
h  la
is 
h Balaic
Isls, ad
h imm
al Sa 
m (M vid), hich hically sis
d
Haibal, ad ca sd
h scd P ic a. Fm
h Ca
haiias,
h c d S
h Sai (B.C. 237), sa Ca
haa, ad als
Bacla. All Sai ll ba
h
h Rma y
, ad c
i d d
i
 a id    c
is.
Sai,
h lad  his
ic mmis, G
hic, Mish, Fch, Bi
ish;

h lad 
h Cid ad  chivaly;
h lad 
h I isi
i ad
 bi
y, 
h lii s ms
, T mada,[3] ad 
h a

ad c l D
  Alva;
h lad 
h c s  Mxic ad
P ,  Cva
s, L d a, ad Cald;
h lad  las z,
M ill, ad
h Idal, 

 sa
 x

ia
 h
l-
s h
a m ch a

achd

h Ral;[4]
h lad  imc isi
y, bi
y,
i
lac, ad las;
h lad  lv ad v, ma
illas ad
s
il

s;
h lad  l
y ad h, azll-yd m, ad
h
bl  chla;
h lad  b ll-ih
s, cia

s, bl  bld, bas,
m
s, ad dis c
d i il;
h lad 
h d s achi
c


h smb G
h ad ss  s M;
h lad  a c 
d ad
vici s c 
-- l i, i
i , cas
ia
i, ad id;

h lad  s
a ch, chalss, ad bl chaac
s, ad   
ad chival s ha
s;
h lad 
h vi, a, ad cyss--

 l m 
ais ad dami sa;
h lad  lih
ad shad, 

lv ad ha
d, ly ad lm;--i i,
h lad  a ssi
iv,
 s, am-ha
d, ad ac l l, b

h s
vm

i Chis
dm.
W a i Sai, c
aily; b
h cld ad s lchal a ci
y B s
is! I
is chill ad dam, ad s bjc

 vil
a

ac
s  id, bi
si
a
d  a lva
d, xsd, ad
lss lai, 3075 
abv

h lvl 
h sa, ad s  dd by a id Aabia-li
 yll
ds
, hich, hv, avs  vas
sa  c i s mm,  i
is

h aay  Sai. I
is s lchal bca s,  all
h  ss
 a advacd ad lih
d a, i
is a b id ci
y; ad
h is

hi a B ls ha
s s m ch as imvm
. W a may h dd
mils s
h  Elad; b
h m ch m bla
ad ihsi
abl is

h clima

ha
ha
  
ma
 N
h isl; ad  ca ll
ds
ad
h vb la
i

h a
h i
his lac, "_Diz
mss d ivi y ds d ii_."
B s is, as  hav said, m ch bhid i
s
im. Th is 
a
ic la
ad, xc
i i
h siml a
icls csidd cssay

h  la
i. Th h
ls a b
scd-a
, ad a sd
chily as a
i-h ss 
h hih class 
adsl. F
is s

hi shl
.
As
h mi b
   av d i
h a lims 
h s ,
hich chd s i
h i
s viviyi bams  ab
 h , ad
h

h d ll lad cl ds c m assd v
h ac  day, hil

h cld ids s
d m
h ba ad d s
y hills vl
i

h
. Hv, as  ads
h h
h i
ld s

s, 
xics a li  idlc hich is s
hi a

h b sy
a  
h ci
is. Th vai s cl i 
h ai
Saish
s

s, i
h
h ic
s  i lai
y 
h h ss, as l
d a

i sc
iv, is lih
ad livly. Th aaac 
h balcis,
cl d ma

i, ad ai
d sh

s ad blids, is lasi


h y 
h s
a m i
s vl
y. Th a v
 may
asss
 ma
h s 
h sc; ad  s ch as lid i
ly
as
s  l
i
h  small d  c isi
y. H i
s
i i

is
 s
h d is
i
h
h shvl ha
, l blac
s
i
s, ad
s
mach-b c
l  "Il Babi," li
ly sal
i
h liv-cl d
y  lady i
h
h ac l ma
illa as sh ss al i
h a
al
ad -li
 dii
y!
Hv siv may b sm 
h sih
s  s i
his c 
y,
hv l c
a
may b may  i
s ai dizs
 a
i
h

hi bi
hih
 di
,
h is ac vyh--ac ic


h slih
s
a

m
a
c
,  
h smalls
aaac 
ac
a
i; a
al idi s ac,  by all, i
h i ma,
dss,  bai, m
h hihs


h ls
i
h lad. Ev

h vmi-h 
i ba, s i his idl sl ba
h
h cavd
ch ch d, ca b ac l i his as; ad a ld   l  lsly
a d his m, i
h
h lds ca h
 h ad
h, ad alli
i a asy ad bcmi ma m his sh ld
 his 
, ivs

his i , as h acs calmly by, a ai  dii
y aly
 b m

i
h lsh; hil
h  bad-bimmd vlv
smb, ja 
ily
isd 
h cl d a
i hich is b d  d
h had ad alls
i a


h a 
h c
, cml
s
h ll-
 ic
 

h  d b
baly D, ad lacs him _i i s_ b
  ys.
A
vy

h y may all

 ba
i l ld ms  G
hic

achi
c
, ai
ad slm ld h ss, cavd i
h haldic
blazy,  i
h s
a
s  ill s
i s ais dad as a s
i

hi alls. Cl m, illa, ad ach a s i

id ad
is
d i
all dic
is,
ha

h b ildis l
as i
hy had b s ddly
aalysd hils
i
hi all v i a i
 ay. O may ass
d sm ba
i lly 

d ach, ad id sl i
hi a  id
c 

h ms
ac l Saacic dvic. N s
 ba
s
h sly
silc  i
s lih
acads; sm a
s ly a i
ly ci
h
a
ass ams

h b
 avm
s  i
s a
s a; ad
h
cl ds a assi  s
ly abv.
I
h 
s
i
s 
h
  bsvd sm massiv yll alls,
i
h bl G
hic achs ad ids, d ad bad, s
adi all
al amids

h d s

his aid clima
, ad l
i 
h ba
hills i
h dis
ac; b

h as  livi s l
 a

s
h
h

hy  cv
 is. H ad
h,
, sm ich lics
 aci
sc l
  s b il
 amids

h bic
s  a ba
 s
h s--
h


i Pas
 sd i
h ams 
h s

Ps
! I ad a d
h ci
y,  dal
s, ad ld a
ays, ad

h alacs  aci
bls, 
h ld cs
abls  Cas
il, i
h

hi _aads_ am
d i
h d l dvics, amial bais,
ad haldic ms
s, a  
bjc
s  i
s

 him h ca
ad a c 
y's his
y i i
s a
i aia mais. Fm
h mic
 hich is b il

h cv
 La Ca
ja, si
a
d ab

 mils
m
h ci
y, a al vi  B s is b
aid, i
h
h lac-li

iacls 
h Ca
hdal sii

h s
is, s  dd  all
sids by
h dsla
 hills ad a-s

chi Sahaa-li
 lais,
i
h scac a a
ch  vd  
h achi y
 s
 i ay
dic
i. W, i a a
mm
, hid a _calch_
 cvy s

h
cv
; b
as
h ad
hi
h as v
h ms
haassi  d,
 lli
h
ac
 a a
-c s s
 i
h a
s
s,

h acss lvl  d i hich  sa


h axls i hi

d s
,  cam

h ccl si
ha
, li

h ma i
h sda-chai
h
h b

m cam 
, i i
 

h h  
h
hi,
 mih
j s
as ll al
. Idd,  mih
as ll hav d

al
i a
c,--al
i s
sibly, 
h h
h caia  h 
as by   sid,  ally had
 al
hal
h ay.
U aivi a

h lmy 
al 
h cv
, i
h i
s yll
alls, a
d ids, ad s
 b

sss,  hich
h l ds
 avi i
h blas
li

h ild s
as i
h had  sm
mlachly maiac,  li
d a havy
c
, ad i
h i
d cd
sm bls hich s dd dismally ad 
a
ally l d amids

h
silc i
hi. I as
   s mms, a cav s, la, al ac
aad  a scd  s a
a a
i
 isc

h i
 ds,
ad   x
i bably a

s
i
h ac

ha
 da as

b ahdd m s,
h havy d as s   by a 
dilaida
d s  lii, i a l s  ad sadals, h
l
d s dssd ad shy i
h li-l d lss ad s s
i
i,

ha
i
as  d h c ld 
li
his ys hih
ha
h
s
 his visi
s. W
h 
d a la
li

l ch ch i
h i
d
achs, 
h lid G
hic s
yl, ba
h a _aad_ mblazd i
h

h ams  Cas
il ad L. I
h mids

h s bd d lih

h
hly lac,
h s ddly b
  s
h maiic

mb  J a
II. ad Q  Isablla  P
al, md  hi
 mabl. I
is
 ly
d l
ha
i
h csss 
hs lly ad dcayi alls,
i
his l s
 a
h, ihabi
d ly by iv 
chd ad
v
y-s
ic
 m
s, a s bjc
s  i
s
hich, i
hi
mavll s ba
y, a  alld, has, i
h ld. Exc
d i
  Caaa mabl, c
aal i sha, ad aisd ab
six 

m
h avm
, i
h a cic mc  aly
hi
y-six 
,
h

mb  J a ad Isablla c
ly

s
h y by
h amazi
i
icacy  i
s d
ail. Six
 lis, bai
h yal sc
chs,
s
ad i ais a
ach al;  s  i mabl s
a


s, ach
idivid al a mas
ic  i
sl, aa s
i d ili
cais, ad i
hi a c


 mabl lac  iii

dlicacy; hil s
s ad bs  a
hy lia,  i
s ad
ls, s 
bids ad isc
s
adi i
hi mabl imay
i
h
h siy
 ch  li. Th s
a
s 
h yal ai li sid
by sid, bd i day hich mih
b
h is
dl
 i


s
.
I a css i
h all a by is a
h d l
mb 
h sam
 s am
ad dlica
 iish,
ha
 D Alz, s 
h
abv. Ov
h hih al
a is a _
abl_, a mass   s il

d
s
i als si

i  vy slid cl ds, hil hl
cvys  li

l id ch bim, i
h vy d ch
s, hv  d
h
a
c
al i   Chis
hai 
h css, ad s m 
d
by a lica
ai h bas

 d h y . Th 
i hih


h _
abl_, m
h
li i s 
h
i ad 
bl

h s mmi

h
ms
cl ds amids
hich
h Ass m
i

h ii is s
d, m s
b aly 
y 
. Th ildi
i
h hich
his maiic

is  sly add, is said
 b
a

h ld b h
by Cl mb s m Amica. Th ily-cavd
al
-d s
alls 
h chi a scims 
h d l id s
y
ad x isi

as
  ld
ims, ad a chaac
is
ic  all Saish
ch chs.
I
h c
al  d 
h sil
cv
clis
s
h a
ds
av v sm h dd avs  Ca
h sia m
s. As
im lls 
h
ds is hih ad
al
hic
, b

h s
lss m d ad ally
si
s d

h al lvl 
h a
h. Hv 
hy
h
ac
is  a

h dds 
h ,
hi avs a v sil
,

hi ams a b
i
i a
, ad
h vy ass abv
hm
i
hs 
s s as
hi mmy.
A
 havi s vy
hi
ha
a

ac
d   c isi
y,  
d

h h
h d hi
 d s
, ad v
h s
y
ac
s, i
h  
vy s l vhicl jl
i bhid s,
h cachma ai m
clsly  d him his aml am
,--a am
i
h csidably m

si
 hai
ha
 sha, bi cmsd 
h s
is  may
a
s. I s s h aly, i v,

i
, ih
 day; ad i

is babl, i h v v
d
 diss i
h a vs
m
hich had
bcm alms
a a
 himsl, h mih
hav l

h cs cs 
his ashss.
W a i
is   ai l d
y
 mid
h ad
ha
B s ad

h D
  Wlli
  c asscia
d

h. Gly is a i

hi, b
i
is a
a
 a
im
 bcm a _b
 i_
 may
xcll
ads; hv,
ha
is
hi l
-
. I Nvmb, 1808,
B s bcam
h had- a
s  Nal. Wlli
, sh m his
vic
y  Salamaca, ivs
d
h
; b
, i cs c 
h
is ici
s 

h Saish al, as cmlld
 ais

h si i d
 sca bi ca
d by Mashal S l
, h
as aachi i
h a m s c. T ji Hill as
h D
's
cssay bjc
, as his
s   i  mb, badly visid,
ad  
by a c
i d s
 l aais
a
dds ad may
disadva
as,
h li

l bad havi i
h
hm
 cay 
h si
b

h ild-ics ad iv hi
zs, aais


y-six 
h
Fch. A
 a lss 

h sad m,
h 
a

h Elish

as caid 
i
h m ch hazad; b
i J , 1813,
h 
 

a as chad, ad Ki Jsh, 
h aach 
h D
 
Wlli
, vac a
d
h ci
adl, a
 bli 
h 
iica
is,
ad i
h
hm sval h dd Fchm.
I
h Cas
l a
B s, c a s m
 s alac as ll as a ci
adl,

h maia 
h Cid

lac; als
ha
 Edad
h Fis

Elad ad Ela  Cas
il. B s is ill s
i s am ci
is, as
havi iv bi
h

h Cid, h i 1040, is
sa
h lih
i a
h s hich s
d 
h s
h  s
ads a blis
, i
h Call
Al
a, c
d by Chals III. i 1784. Th a,  c s, a la
 mb  l h
 all ab

h _Cid_, ad
h diva
i 

h d. B
as  a  ally c
ai
h a a ai am 
h d

,  may as ll m
i
h lli a
ic las i cc
i
i
h
ha
smi-mys
i s sa,
 hm  
all sis a
avidabl i a b
ab
Sai.
D Rdi Diaz d Biva, 
his
h Cid, as a 
lma  vy
ali

dcis, ad s
ms
 his
im i ivi v


h
ma
ial ad  i
hi him. H has cs 
ly b add by his
c 
ym  all
ims as
hi a
ial h, ad ad i a bih

haz  ab l s ly ad am. H, hv, accmlishd a d dal

h 
a

ib
d
 him, ad chasd, haassd, c d, ad
imisd
h Ms
h h
Sai
 a ms
sa
isac
y x

.
His lv 
h ba
i l ad hic Xima xmliis
h ada

ha
 b

h bav dsv
h ai, ad shs his ss i
h
bs   s as ll as i
h ild  Mas. Sh
ly a
 his
da
h a ad 
ical liica
i  his xli
s as d
 his
mas i
h "Chicl 
h Cid;" ad a
h, a vy l
im
a
, by
h imm
al Cill i his mas
ic  "L Cid." U

h ccasi  a a
vic
y, sm Mish 
abls cam

h h
ad s
a
d
hmslvs a
his 
, sal
i him i
h
h
i
l 
_Sid Camad_,  Chami Pic--hc
h alla
i _Cid_.

alcia as
h las
Mish s
hld hich ll
 his ams; ad

h, a
 hai  his s s ad hs-bi

h Ca
hdal
all, h
hy mai

his day, h did i
h ya 1099. Ay
i ii
avll may  sa
isy
h cmbid b
 a his
ical
ad aa
mical mid by isc
i i
hi a d  i
h T Hall
 B s,
h bs 
h imm
al D Rdi ad his lvly Xima.
Oly
 s
h Ca
hdal  B s  ld amly sv as a a
 l
d
 a ilima m
h

ms
a
s 
h a
h. Cmi
s ddly m  d
h al  sm a s

,
h b s
s 

h y
ha
li s G
hic il, i
h all i
s aiy iacls. I
h
i
i h ich is
his majs
ic
ml i
h
ha
 alld m s
siiica

h Rma Ca
hlic ai
h, hil
h slm alls a


d i
h chas
 am
s 
h as
ba
y, ad i
h  s 
sld, ac l illa
s hich is a-li


h l
y .
Wh  vis i
, as Sc

cmmds s
 vi Mls, i
h al
mlih
, h  d is
h imssi d cd by
h id-li

aaac 
h imms b ildi,
h dsi  hich is s bl, s
c
! Th ad ilim m 
h lads, h his ys is
s


his  alld shi, s
ads cha
d, as i 
d

h s
,
his s l lai i
hi him,
as
d i
h
h ba
y  s a a
sc
acl.
As
h a
cavd d sis bac
bhid s, ad sh
s 
m

h sss
h la 
h Saish day,
h had is is
ic
ivly
bd, ad
h
 bds i shi;  vy
hi i
his

csca
d
ml 
h Divii
y is calc la
d
 xci

h sii

 ada
i, ad
 ais   ai
h havad. Wh  s
ad sil


h
hshld 
ha
hly lac, ba
h
h l
y achs 
h
va l
d , s 
d by s  clssal cl ms ml
i aay
i

h dis
ac; h  slly ac
h l aisls, i
h
h

mbs 
h mih
y dad  ach sid;  h 
l i
h
h
dv
shis b
h al
as i
h vai s chals, mmd
by h dds  s
a-li
 lams,
h s l ls
h ali
y 
his
s; hil i
h
h d diaas 
h a, bldd i
h
h
hly s  bads  chis
s, i
s asia
is m 
li
 cl ds 
ics
 hav. Nv shall I 

h  d imssi hich I
xicd h, i
ha
bl a, I l

ha
lii s ai
h as
a
c
h ads
ad
h ms
 i 
h 
h h ma s l.
Th s
aicas, hich dscds i ac l c vis m
h al
a


h mabl l ba
h, i
h a
ii hads
mia
i
h
bal s
ads, is vy ba
i l, ad as m ch admid by    David
Rb
s. H maiic
,
, is
h chi, i
h i
s
 h dd
s
alls, add i
h sis, hich a am
d i
h
h ichs
ad
ms
mi
 cavi! Th da
al
-d is all chasd, chislld, ad

acd m iacl
 l i
h  mass  amazi am
a
i,
amids

h i
icacis  hich
h sih
lss i
sl, ad bcms
dim. Th chi is 
ily s  dd by
all bass ailis 
x isi
 
mashi; ad i
h i
 chals, ach clsi
bjc
s  mavll s i
s
 ba
y,
h al
as a s 
d by
jas illas ad cl ms  as
mabls, hil
h _
abl_ iss


h --a c
labyi
h  il
d-cavi, cdd i
h
s bjc
s  d s dvic. O a shl i a sacis
y is m ldi
aay i
 chis a a
d chs
hich bld

h Cid, 

h id lc  l
i a
hich 
vy ma
abl a
icl 
his
h's 
i
a is
did 
cha s m
ha a shilli a had.
FOOTNOTES:
[3] I
h c s  six
 yas, T mada, is

I isi
-Gal  Sai, cmmi

d

h lams ih

h sad
ih
h dd vic
ims.
[4] Ab

c haly. Th al is
h basis 
h hl
m
ay sys
m  Sai.
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER .
AGAIN ON THE RAIL.--ALLADOLID.--THE FONDA DEL SIGLO DE ORO.--THE
COLEGIO MAYOR DE SANTA CRUZ.--CONENT INTERIOR.--CHAMBER OF
HORRORS.--COLEGIO DE SAN GREGORIO.--THE CATHEDRAL.--SPANISH
CHARACTERISTICS.--THE THEATRE.--USE OF TOBACCO.
As
h
ai mvd aay m B s,
h ci
y ad
h a
ca
hdal
ml
d aay m   sih
, ad  lidd v
h id Aica-li

lais ad did-  a
c ss, as

h s
y hills hich, x
di



h a hiz, lc
d
h dazzli ays 
h s . N
a blad
 ass  si   as
h
 sh
h y  ma,  
ca

l
  mia
 . N d
h b

 
h c 
y is mad 
lad, 
h mil
 di

a
 m
h ma!
A
a li

l s
a
i h
h
ai s
d, a ld lady, clsly
hdd i blac
s, ad l
i li

h  la s
a
i 
Old By, 
d   caia,

h i
h a m
. Wh
hy cam
m i
as imssibl
 cjc
, as
h as  si  villa
 habi
a
i i
hi sih

his vy  slss s
a
i i
h
ds
. Thy  a

dd, hv, by
h s al sc
i v  i

his c 
y, a 
i  hich immdia
ly la
 s ad bi
s.
Th  isc
s had mad b
a sca
y mal 
hi i
i
i s m
,
ad cam
 s 
hi _chass ca_,  a
h _chass mi_.
W aivd i
h vi a
alladlid, c
h cai
al
 
Sai. Idd, i si
  i
s si
i i
h c
  a id,
id-s
, sady lai, hich ca ss
h ci
y
 b
h s

a chic simm, i
sms
 b a cai
al
 s
ill. F
ad
ad aic l

h si
a
i aas cvi
, , d l

 say,
hy hav 
sm a
 amids

h _
ias d cams_,
hich cs 
ly yild ab da
d c; addd
 hich,
h iv
D  cc
s
h ci
y i
h
h A
la
ic--i a a
h diic l
ad
sasmdic ma, hv--ad
h ailad mai
ais i
s cmmcial
la
is i
h
h s
h ad 
h. Th am  alladlid is s sd

 b divd m
h Mish Blad Walid,  lad 
h Walid. This
may b, hv, as "  b" said a

h _
abl d'h
_, "ialid,"
ad 

 b lid .
I
h Plaza May 
his ci
y,
h a
Alvaz d L a, "Sai's
ha h
y cs
abl," as bhadd. "Uasy lis
h had
ha
as
a c," ad h asy m s
si

h had
ha

 s
s i ics,
scially ld ics h may y  s,  all ss  h ,
j s
ic, ad a
i
d sms
 al


h d h xi sss
cms i a

h id.
H, i 1506, Cl mb s da
d
his li, ad Phili II.,
h

a
 ssss    s
, May  Elad, cam i
 i

 May 21s
, 1527. H, i
h six

h c
y, _a
-da-s_ ad
idical bis  h
ics 

 i
h a
sii
,--
bi d
h scial a
a 
h abv-m
id blssd
mach,  a scal  cd
d maiicc. H, Cva
s
livd ad 
, ad h,  

 b blid
 add,
h D

 Wlli
 mad his  blic 
y, ad

 his sidc i
h
bish's alac.
Th _Fda dl Sil d O_, al
h h a
h ambi
i s i i
s chic
 a am, is a
labl h s  h, ad
h visi 
h
cssais  li is 
i
 s imi
iv h as a
B s. As
ads
ha
ss
ial lm
 civilisa
i,
h ba
h,
h Saiad
sms s
ill  dly ad i imval da
ss. O
h mi a

  aival a

h H
l 
h Gld A,--h   ld
hi

all  ld b s  dd by   dlih
s,--
h i s dsi 

a ba
h

ssssi  s as s al; b
, as i 
h lacs, 
had sm diic l
y i b
aii
ha
shi a
icl. W  ll
h
bll,
h ai
 aas; 


h d "bas," i a l ad
a
h h mbl
, as i
i i
as vai
 xc
a av abl
ly. Th ai
 i is, "Cali
?" W as, "N, i." "Fi!"
scams
h ai
, i
h blachd visa, ad is
a
ly disaas
li
 a hal i
h h a
a. Ps
ly, hv, h aas i
h

a
h ai
, b
h l

i as scad ad cm
abl as i
hy
xc
d
 b css-xamid a
a c's i s
as
 s sici s
i
sss cc
d i
h   dcas. Aai  v

 as

imidly
 "bas." B
h ai
s xclaim, i a
  hllss amazm
,
"Fi?"
 hich y  ly i
h aima
iv by a d, ad
hy
i
hda, m

i ad s
ic la
i all d
h s
ais. Th Saish
a
hlis
bsvs
ha

h i
 hydmaia ally a

ac
s
h
Elishma b

h h s  ih
ad
.
I a  mi
s, a
 a dal  sc li 
sid
h d,
h

 ai
s aad aai, lld by
h ladld, his i, ad
a s
a 
lma, cayi b

hm a bjc
hich had sm
smblac

h s
a
-chai  S
. P
 i
h basilica 
ha

am a
Rm. Wh
his d s ic   i
 as s

ld i
h
middl    m,  discvd
ha

h sa
had b mvd, ad
a s a
i a ixd ba
h, c
aii ab

 i
s  b
a
. I

his  madly l d, ad al
h h c
ly sb a

h

im, imaid   jyi a shi s ba
h. Hv,
his
s

hi is  
h _csas d Esaa_, s  s s i
as all
ih
.
_ s_ 
h al d xssd a
ay  ishi  cld
a

 ash i,
h sms i Sai
 b a  al
  sh
ai. U  ccasi  had b i bd b
a sh

im h a
ai
 
d
h m
 i i i S had all h  id. His
ys had  s s
d 
h  id, hich admi

d
h
cla ih
ai,
ha his hl c 
ac bcam lc
d ad iid,
as i sm dad l sa--
h
avlli h
 Khassa, i

mih
b--had s ddly s
d himsl a

h id. Th  c
iay
i s
i, hv, s cvd his sc  mid, ad havi
cas
 axi s lac a
  bd,
 sa
isy himsl
ha
all as
ih
i
h s, h l acss
h m i
h a b d ad a a
h,
slammd
h casm
s

h, ad
h sh

s a

hm, lii

h css ba i
 i
s sc

i
h s ch c as
 sh
ha
h
i
dd i

 mai
h.
Th h
ls i Sai, i
h la
s, a ally cla ad ll


;
h h sm ss, has, mih
b abl
 diss i
h a

li

l 
ha
ivsal d   is ad ammia hich cs
a
ly
vails
h h

h h s; ad
h ds ad cha

ls 
avlls
i
h vai s ms  ld 
b absl
ly dad i cmm
bas m
h s

s  vaild  

 sd i
 s
m ch 
hi
im 
h s
ais b

h bd-chambs ad
h
 d-l.

alladlid bi a
  csidabl im
ac i
h his
y

 Sai,   a
 s i
, ad  s
hadi   ay

h h
h s y s

s, da
h
h bad bad  bl  vhad,

il   d  slvs ac
 ac i
h
h Cli May d Sa
a
C z, a ad ld alac  dd by Cadial Mdza i 1479, ad 
s
adi i
h all i
s ba
i l 

cld i
h ild ds, ad
i
s lih
acads, Saacic cl ms, ad G
hic chs m ldi
aay i s  ad silc. O  add,
h h
h l allis,

ill  achd
h libay, aa
ly s calld  acc 

h


al absc  b
s, b
hich is illd i
h a mi  al
h i

h sha  a  si  scims 
h ms
x isi
 cavis
i al
d ad da
a
. Th a _salas_ a
 _salas_ illd
i
h ld m s
y ic
s, cavis, ad d sc l
s, cllc
d
m
h vai s cv
s a

h id 
hi s ssi. Th
ic
s a ms
ly bad,
h h may 
hm a c i s. O c s


h a  mbs  hay ld sai
s i as, i
h ld i
s ixd


h bac
s 
hi hads, liyi i
h lyi labl lacd
ba
h
hm. A l m is illd i
h a l ai
d i s
cavd i d, s
i
s  ia
ic  ias i
h ac

 sc
i Chis
, m 
s ly hid s
ha ay
hi 
c ld imai i   s
dams. Is i
i d
 isi a d 
vc ad ac
i  O  Savi 
ha

h i  
h Rdm
is s
d i
hs d c
is as a ma, a, ad macia
d
s
l
  a ma, cvd all v i
h bld, di
,
h ma
s 
s
is, ad
ald masss  al d hai?  is i

 d
m i
s
h disli
 i
h hich  ad his sc
s? Ths
idivid als a s
d blab i
hi 
a
 vic
im i
h
c dls csidably la
ha
hi  bdis, hich hav
h ms

vl
i aaac m dmi
y ad disas, m s
m s bi
ally add

hi
ha
s.
I
h mids

hs dlc
abl hs, ad lacd  a la
la
, is a ai
d d-cavi 
h dcai
a
d had  S
. Pa l,
i
h hich ay ama
  xc
i may al himsl
 his ha
's
c

. S ai
h lly dd is
h las
l
 h i
h
hal-clsd lass ys,
ha
 ca
hl d b
i, h h is

lacs a
i
, h
h i
is ly a mdl. W  lad
 sca m

his lii s Madam T ssa d's i

h bih
s  ad  ai, h
 c ld dismiss
h acis isid by s ch hibl sih
s.
W l
i
 livd h   d  slvs aai i
h a

s a, aliv i
h da
-s
id m ad m, i
h
hi ay dsss
ad s s vics. Th jili m ls v  a lasa
sih


 s, ad  azd i
h dlih

h hi
 alls, lc
i i
h
s ch dazzli billiac
h ays 
h s , ad 
h ivsal
d s
, hich alms
hal ch
d s, 

 sa

h bl  s
y ad

h  acacia
s. I ac
,
h vy d   alic as 
s
d
s
abl
 s as i
sd
 b. C
aily
hs vas
, is-li

cv
s s
adi 
h 
s
i
s 
h
, a ms
i

i
lacs i hich
 imm   li y  m ad m--i

i 

hi  s,
ha
is, iasm ch as
h is  h

 b s m

h a
d ids

m

hm bac


h ld
hy hav l
.
Thy may s
ai
hi dimmi ys as m ch as
hy las
h h
h
bas,
hy ill s  s
ii cds i  s i
 b siss 
las ,  hay ais,  maly m  s
ac,
 ma

h
s
ill am ha

hill i
h jy l mmis;
hy ill s  h
b

ild
ac
s  ds
, ad yll lais adi i

h h
hiz,
ad sadi aay li
 a b i ca. W hav by chac  a
ccasis ca h
sih
 acs a
cv
a
is, ad
hi lac
ll li
 a icicl 
h ha
--acs hich,
h h y  i yas,
 ad i sadss, ad chac i
h
h ms--ms
bably
i
h
h 
--
ha
cms
 la
. I sa,   ccasi,
 y 
ils, al m cim
i
hi
h yll alls  a lii s
is a
alladlid, ad
h bldlss ch
dd
h da
blaz

h azll-li
 ys alms
a
ally bih
i
h a als
l s
,
h l s
 ca h
m
h s l lsd by
h a
ial dcay
 i
s is-h s, ad s
 li
 b . H s
a
ha
s
m ch y , ad
li, s m ch ba
y, s may lvi ha
s, ad
s m ch  s y sh ld chs
 
slssly aay i s ch
is-h ss, li
 al ad lly lams lic
i i a
mb! S
a

ha

hi missi as
d m, h mih
hav s
hd
h is
ad
md
h hadss  may a hs
ma, h i 
 mih

hav lvd
hm as his li, his id, his all, sh ld b--as ci
izs

h ld--
id
 a ds
iy s a lly aimlss, hlss, ad
lvlss: s dad i
hi li, ad i ly
 may cass s

ly

ha
-ay ad l!

Wll,
 cd i
h   s
ll
h h
h ic
s  ld Saish
s

s. W say Saish,-- i
is 
vy
 v i Sai
ha

is Saish i
h chaac
  i
s achi
c
. Madid,  is
ac,
i
h
h xc
i  a  
h ld a
s, has 
hi a
ially
chaac
is
ic ab
i
. Th s  as  bii
 ma
 i
sl l

i
h m
ha s al vi ; b

ha
as
 b xc
d h,  i

is  
h _csas d Esaa_. Fm
h yll alls  ch chs
ad alacs, i
s ays  lc
d, hil vhad
h h  
s
lss la
  bl . D a mlachly sil
s

, h la
ds  alli  al, ad ic-yd, ad l 
c
i savaly ams

h d s
, as a lai s a h s, i
h a 
small ids clsd by sh

s. I
his h s Cl mb s did, as
h
s
a is imd by
h lli isci
i v
h d: "Ac i
m i Cl."
A li

l  
h   cam  a av   dy las, bdi a
small sl ish s
am,
h h hich as s a
lscic vi  h
,
yll hills byd, d

d h ad
h i
h a a
chs  ,
as i
h i s  c di
y, i lyi v
hm, had by accid

ccasially dd m his c cia a h  b ch  css. By
h
sid  a di
ch,  bsvd h dds  ashm 
hi
s,
ashi shi
s i m d, i
h a la s
. Th cha

i
hy mad
id cd "  b," hm  s ddly m

h bid,
 bsv

ha
"
h smd
 b a a
dal m
al
i ab

hi
ad a
h
ha ab
ay
hi ls." Wha
h ma
, dss
s!
A li

l byd, as a by  his s
mach, di
i m
h s
am,

, li

h l i
h abl, abv
h lamb, h
yiid by
h
ashm, b
bl. N d chla is m
ha s ally a
al i
Sai, , c
aily, may 
hi ac
ics ivi

h aach 
s
ilc!
I
sms a ic
ac
ic  h,
h
a
i 
s ccasially
i a c

-b
; b
h, i
h Pis la, i
is a
h v s

. F xaml,  had scacly iishd a  lis i cil
  ccasi, h  bcam aa 
h cls ximi
y 

_dams_, h  b
h l
i asla
v   sh ld, i

h
b
. F hal a h   s,
hy lld s sis

ly hv 

, ccasially s
i ad ci as
ly

h, 
il 
ad   i
 b ahdd ad
h i
 a d  
l

i aais
Q  Isabl,  d
hd, ad
a
i 
s 
h
a
i
s i
h chaac
  h vm
ad l,  hich, by

h ay,
h md  ashi li is .
I all
h al
s 
sid alladlid, vy
hi mids s cibly 

h Eas
, ad ads vidc 
h Oi
al dsc

h Saiad.
Th is, i ac
, m ch

h i
h ass
i
ha
Sai is b

_l'Ai  i c
i _. Th a
h sam h
, hi
, d s
y ads,
bdd by a
hy acacias, ad ivi bi
h

h al;
h sam
baz, dy, ad id sady lais ad s

d
s. Th a may

h sam la
-d h ss, aais
hs dazzli alls
h i
ad lad cas

hi shads. Th a
h sam b, smi- d
chis, sh
i Aabic-s di ds ad hac
i m ls hassd
i
h cl d day.
Wh  l

ads
h
,  s vas
cv
alls s
adi
dia
ly, as
hs  
sss, ad il a
 il  a
s a
b ildis, dms, ad
s, isi aais

h bl , sly s
y i
all
hi slm ba
y. Wh  

h ci
y, ad al
al
h

cl hih s

s, lavi
h s l
y lais bhid s ba

i i d s

ad la,
h y
s  ld alacs cv
d i
 baac
s ad
alms-h ss, ad  Mish c 
s ad G
hic halls, aa
ly

a
lss  ay  sav la-bi

 bas, m mbli Babl ly

s ha
la a, h cal ab
, sca
chi
hmslvs, hal

asl, amids
icly 
ics ad bl cl ms. Evyh 
bsv  s  ac l, hdd m, m sa
hd i d sash,
s
id cla
, ad yll shi
, l
i 

ly m ba
h

h smb's shad. Th Saiad sms
 dlih
i a dy h s.
M ls a clad i ay
ais, ad
h h ss a ai
d i bih

cl s; y
vyh,
,  s di
, dcay, ad sl
h, ad a
lld by abmiabl smlls.
I   ambls  
as

h _aad_ 
h ch ch  Sa Pabl,

h s
 am
s  hich a li
 lac-
xc
d
h
h dd yas a. This,  
h is
_aads_ i Cas
il, as
b  i
h i

h c
y by
h Abb
 alladlid, F. J a
d T mada, ad iishd by
h D
  Lma a

h bii

h sv

h c
y. W assd i

h ba
i l a
i ad
c 

h Cli d Sa Gi, ad al
d amids

h
all
sial illa
s, s 
i G
hic achs, lih
ad lvly. W
h
sa 
d 
h ich s
aicas, i
h i
s cavd s
 bal s
ads,
dimiishi aay i dl-li
 dlicacy, ad l
d 

h
 c 
i
h all i
s chislld allis. Ev i
hs ba
i l
s
 c
s lc
as visibl. Wds i may lacs cvd
h
mabl, ad
h smll  da
h smd smh
 li a d.
T a damy mid, 
  hich asily viba
s
 a
 ch 

y, i
is a ad l x y

 i

hs i ld ch chs,
h
h lih
is s bd d ad
h ai is cl, m
h scchi
s  ad la i
h
. W
h s, ccasially, li
d
h c 
ai, ad
assd d
h ch 
h ca
hdal  alladlid. I
s m s
s a Ci
hia cl ms s
ad i all
hi ai
 s

h, as
i
 
a
ch
h ld. Th cl  vaili i
his ch ch is
y ad sb. Th is sm
hi ad ad hami s i i
s h 

is; b
i i
s simlici
y i
aas m li
 sm massiv
s lch 
h as

ha
h
ml  a s

a
i s lii.
Sca

d  s  m a
li b
h al
as, ad
h
s
ill ms  dv
s a bdi 
h cld avm
. Baz
a
s ad l
y ailis s  d
h chi,
h h hich cl d
i s mv idis
ic
ly, as i a dam. Th is sm maiic

da
a
cavi. Cl s
s 
as ic
h h
h lm, ad

h mlachly cha 
 dis
a
chis
s chs s
ly
h h
h
aisls. O
aai i
 a s y ma

-lac, i
h isy-li
 m
s a

i 
h  d, ams

h mls ad
ma
s,
h 
s ad
as. Di
y
h h ac l m, sm
i cia

s, ad 
ald i
 s
y cla
s, i
h
hi hads
id  i a dy
chis, a l i
ab
i ic
s  s al; hil 
hs i blac
smb, vlv

bchs, ad jac

add i
h m
al b

s, a ladi a

m ls, dc
d i vivid h sis. Fa
h  a m Mish-l
i
m, i
h i
ch  had, s
i by a  
ai sid; ad abv a
li

l bys, chd i
h blis, clai
h ch ch blls i
h
ha
y d-ill.
Th Saiad is c
aily vy c 
 s by a
, ad al
h h
ally shy  is, ms
axi s
 las
hm h h ids

hm _chz l i_, ad
 sd
hm aay i
h d imssis b
h 
his c 
y ad  himsl. W  l
i,   ccasi, a
sm
m m
i
h
, h
 y  
lm  iishd mas
s ddly addssd s by aisi
hi ha
s, ad a
 li
ly

i s cia

s,  s
d s
 bli
hm by a isc
i


hi cl b. O c s   lad
 d s. This s
ablishm
,
hich   d
 b cl ad cm
abl  h, csis
d  a
s i
  l
y ms, dca
d _ la Wa

a _, illd i
h li

l


s  li
 y  m  asy mas, all dssd vy sbly

i blac
cl
h, ad i
h ma
ably
all ha
s 
h la
s
Paisia
ashi. Ms

hm  cha

i, layi cads,  sm
i
h
cia

, a d a small billiad
abl, i
h vy la balls ad a
s
 s
i

ls i
h c
. A small ilac, c
ly 
, as
i
d cd
   
ic, ad   av d i
h a dsci
i 
i
s  c
is, hich c ld 
hav b iv i
h a
 id i
i
had b sm ad sci
iic discvy i
dd
 lih
 ad
bi

h ld. A
  had b 

aid  a sh

im, 


lav 
his sci
y  vy lasa
y  
lm, h aai



hi
all ha
s as  bd

hm, xchad xssis 
dyi sc
, ad av d s i
h a  m ciaills.
Saiads sm
 b ally vy accmmda
i ss; b

hy
m s
v b h id, ad v as
d
ic  a lih

h sam
cia

. Thy a diaily svd, ad hav a
 ss 
iva
 dii
y; b
h
a
d i
h c
csida
i, a ms

aci s i 
. Thi li
ss may cd, has, m a ss
 a
i
ic blia
i m
ha m ay si s lv  y  s.
Th ladis ssss
h sam chaac
is
ics, ad al
h h xac
i as

 mali
is, a ally aabl ad d-a
d. I
m s
b
admi

d, hv,
ha

hy a vy idl, 
ily lac
i
h ic

vivaci
y ad i

hi livly ihb s,
h Fch. Th la id
bld 
hi Mish acs
s, ad
hi s l
y, ssiv clima
,
may acc 
a
ly 
h idlc hich is cmm
 b
h sxs.
Th Ga Ta
 Cald has a vy 

y i
i, ad is i

Paisia i aaac. Wh illd alms
xcl sivly i
h
sa
li dsss ad  s ims, i
has a billia
c
.
N
i
hs
adi c
v
s,
h Saish l, h   a

alladlid, smd
 b 
h sias
ically lyal. J s
b
h
mac ba, a la ic
  Q  Isabl, lacd i
h
c
 
h h s, immdia
ly v
h yal bx, as s ddly
vild. All i
h
ha
 i
h  accd s
d ,
i
v
ially
ads i
. Th dams s
d i vai s a
s 
h
_sall_ s
d ams, ad
h chs
a layd
h a
ial hym. Th
mac  sm v-b-had- a, i
h a
i
l
ha
,

s is, as icmhsibl, did 
, i a m sical ss, d
m ch cdi

 Saish
al
. Hv, i
h m
 has had

sh
d s l d all
h h
h ic,  sh ld hav had
h
sis
 b

 adva
a. As i
as,
h as  si la d 
, a

all v
s, b
 a vy a
, s a li

l
 ad a l, la
bai
,  hich  ad a
 ida ca b s
d, lss i
b
ha

 a
-a
s md by sm s i
h ais  da
h
ad a ld h d sh
 i a
l h
h s

h ac
a 

h 
i.
Wha
 li
d vy m ch, a
all v
s hil   
avls, as

b abl
 lih
cia

s a

h lams i
h ad sal. H i
Sai  sm
s ll ih vyh. O

ims i
h middl 
h
_
abl d'h
_, i
h _
'ac
_ b

h c ss b a
all a l
, cia

s a lih
d, ad
h aay a
 a dz  s 
s. N m ca
a
ally disli

bacc,  i Sai
bacc
is sm
d vyh, ad
h ladis d'
ai

 
h hi
s

hi ys i 
dd h 
h il
hy d. O
h c
ay,

sm
i i
h
hmslvs is a av i
 as
im i iva
, i 
i
 blic, ad
h ladis' aa
m
s a 
 aa
i
h m
ha
a _s _ 
ha
hb
h d   hich as s abmiabl

h
Bi
ish Slm. Ad, idd, hy sh ld i

b s? Th a may
s smlls
ha
a d d i
h
a m m 
ha
h sh ama 
  Havaa
bacc, Ki Jams's C 
blas

i
hs
adi.
A

h b-m
id xhilaa
i d 
, 
h h

ha

h
is
ds  had b

 
xcd 
y
h h ma sys
m
 m ch;
, li

h l h ca i
h c s 
im ad ac
ic
a
 as
m ch la da m as  ld
ill a x,
h as 
i ha
 mih

b b h

 d . W s
lld,
h, i

h Ta
 L,
h a ac "as ," as
hy say i dama
ic has. Th s cs 
am sm
--
h chaac
s, l
s, ad s
yl  layi--aad
 b


y aly
h sam as
hy a i Elad. Th , as   
s
a, havy a
hs, al
i ladis, h smaids, lvs ccald i
c bads, jc
d s i
s av d by s
 a
s, b
s i
m ch m
h ac
ical j
s 
h ai
h l m 
h amily,
all sha
 

h i
 a c sd l
, ad hldi hads i a
 h
h ic as b h


h s al hay
mia
i. Wh

h c 
ai alls, cias a lih
d, ad
h
bacc sm
 iss i
cl ds, 
il
h 
i h s, as ll as
h bais 
h a dic,
is 
ily bd. All
h iva
 bxs a

his h s 
hic
ly
addd i
h s
d ad il
d la
h, i
h ha
bjc
i
as
diic l

 cjc
. Th chs
al aam
s  cd c
d
 a
h a _laissz all_ icil; ad
h by h layd
h
cymbals smd scacly
 b ha
 sh ld call a  la m sicia,
b
 ad 
h c. Bi a ic
-i

d, sha-yd lad,
hv, h maad, by
i his az s
adily ixd 
h lad,

 lay his isy is
 m
i
h sm disc
i,  idd by a
ccasial i
m
ha
 c
iay. H as bably aid s m ch
a smash, li

h ma i
h
h a
d m a
J lli's cc
s, h
civd
c  hac
.

alladlid is a xcdily lasa
lac, ad  jyd vy m ch

his _xis
c d l _, i ab
d i
h day m sih


sih
, ad assi
h vi i
h
ha
. Idd, h  is
asscia
d i
h a
idd sii
, ha
m chami hliday ca
h
b
ha
 b caid as
a aama  v-chai scs, ad,
i
h all ca l
bhid i
h
h Ld s ad lays,
 i
ss
vis  li, a
, ad chaac
 disslvi  i

h 
h by
asy ada
is,  lih
,  av,  h m s,  
ly sad?
I
as i
h  al dlih

ha
 add
h h
h b sy ci
y ad
i
h m 
ai bz, d balmy s
is, ad v
h az  sa. S,

h, alladlid, _addis_!
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER I.
EN ROUTE FOR MADRID.--TYPES OF NATIONAL CHARACTER.--GEOLOGICAL
CONNECTION OF SPAIN AND AFRICA.--A STATION IN THE
WILDERNESS.--AILA.--A FUNERAL.--THE GUADARRAMA HILLS.--THE
ADUANEROS.--MADRID.--HOTEL DE LOS PRINCIPES.--PUERTA DEL SOL.

W had
h adva
a  a Amica 
lma's sci
y i
h ailay

caia h  s
a
d  Madid; als
ha
 a a
h da
ic
Elishma--b
h
ys 
hi sc
iv a
is. I
as ms

i
s
i
 bsv h, by as
i b
h
h sam s
i,
h
c liai
y 
hi saa
 a
iali
is as b h
i
 c i s
c
as
.
"D y 
h a h s a
alladlid
 H Majs
y's?" as
d
, i
h c s  cvsa
i, 
h Elishma.
"Si," lid h, " 
h ccasi  a xamia
i a
a  blic
schl, I as c  s
d
 am
h a
 h
s, ad
h

am
h lss. I immdia
ly  sd, ad bsvd
 my xami
ha

I v mad ividi s dis
ic
is. I  ma
 y
h sam as."
W
h 

h s
i

h Amica, h said,-"Waal, s
a, I  ss I  i
h, 
h ma i hich
y cd c
a
ics i E  is a ca
i
 sa
s, ad asid 
bi idic lia i ma, I 
i
d slic
as bas ad
yaical,
hich hsmv is ly as h y  E a ci

s is s c
ld

 j , xc
Iish c
s, h, I calc la
, a abs a
la
i
m
h 

 ld ld, ad ma
i 

y ic

ac
s acss
h
ish-d

h Almih
y S
a
s, ad
ha
's a aac
."
A

his j c
 i
smd cssay
 lad   id bac


h
s bjc

h a, ls h  ld hav bably dila
d  vy
icvi
s bjc
s, 
il, as h himsl had ccasi
 bsv,
"E
i
y's bll a."
I
cam 
, hv,
ha

h Elish m
hd  cd c
i a
ic
ma

s as 
hy ly  a 
 ad sslss ld ais
cacy.
I Elad   ass d by   idd
_cma d vya_

ha
a ima da h had
 hav a bad s
ha
as s
ill
cmlld
 si as ll as i h vic as i
h bs
cdi
i.
Was
h v s ch c l
y? N
i
hs
adi
h da

ha

dlica
 ad cs
ly a  s,
h h ma
ha
, sh as cd

 cm ad ad xc

h ms
laba
 ad diic l
ais,
i
h vaia
is,
 am s a  blic
h ms
xac
i ad
h las

syma
h
ic i
h ld; has i Amica, i
h lady's
ha

as a
all i a dlica
 cdi
i, sh as a
c xc sd by h
lih
d a dic, h v xc
d
ha
imssibili
is 

b accmlishd 
hi a
iica
i. I ac
, accdi

his

lma's acc 
, Amica m s
b s  ad lih
d a c 
y,

ha
i
is a d
ha
s ch ld-ashid 
is as blia
i,
c
ac
, &c., &c., sh ld xis

hi, 
ha
ima das sh ld
v si a
all d i a a, lss c
ly cvi



hmslvs. I i, i   id's j dm
as
 b
 s
d,
h
a
ial m

  Cl mbia sh ld b
h accmmda
i  
ha

m ch sc
d s
ablishm
, s ssd a c
y a,
h Hll-Fi
Cl b--
 i
:--"Fay c  v das."[5]
Th cmmcm

h j y, a
 lavi alladlid _ 
_
 Madid, lay
h h vas

ac
s  sady lais, i
h
h a
hiz b dd by baz hills li

hs  Aica, ad l, l
y

abl-lads, ba
h hich
h Nil mih
ll b s
ami. B

his
is idd, a

his sas a
all v
s, a dy ad ba lad, h
 a
 is. Hv, may bad acs 
his  aid c 
y 
a  m
hs a smili i
h avi c. S
ill dsla
i m s
i

a a
mas  b
h al chaac
is
ic 
h sc, i
h

Oi
al-l
i m 
ais  ba sad,  hich 
hi ca  b

s
s, ad h li is aly s i ay m sav
ha

h
ild a
,
h v l
, ad
h 
la. Th is li

l d b

ha
, a

 
hs a dis
a
chs i
h hich lical scic ma
s
s amilia,
h
 c
i
s jid a

h s
h a 
h
S
ai
s  Gibal
a, ad
ha
Sai as
h c
i  s i
h Aica.
I i
 ac
,
h sil  Sai, as a as B s, has cisly

h sam chaac
is
ics as
ha
 Aica.
S   lid, v lais ad
ac
s  lai sad, livd ly
h ad
h by a sli
ay asa
divi a lc
 blac
sh
v
h hi
 xas
 lacs h a  misabl a
chs  sm
a
v
a
i  a ma azi  d 
h  aimals. A

l i
vals
h aas, sa
d 
h lai li
 sm l, la

islad, a 
chd v
y-s
ic

,
h b i ays 
h s 
lc
d m i
s b
 h s-
s ad  i
s yll alls. I
h
a dis
ac
h y may has dis
i ish a
h, ad a
  hav
assd i
, y
a
h, isi a aay, isla
d 
h day as
.
A la ch ch sms
 dmi v
h hvls ba
h, i
s
li
si lai as i
 i
h lc
ad xha s
i. Scac a s l
aas amids

hs m al ildsss. Th is  
ha
s
i,
aima
i, ad ch lss hich ally accmay ci
y,
, 
villa li i 
h c 
is. Th b i s ,
h sady ds
,

h m
 s ildss, hav vid
ly l

hi imss 
h
chaac
 
h l. As  cd aidly v
h lai, a il

 ad ba

lm
i  is--a lic  hic s
y, ad 
h
lis  
h days--aas b s, s
adi mids

h sli
d
li

h s
l
  sm l-

 aimal hich had all
h
h
h ld as y
y , ad v hich 
h ild bids scam
ad hil, hil
h l, a
ds hich aly cv i
sih

h
assi bz.
This bih
Oc
b a
h is li

h is
J ly days i Elad,

md by a sh, 
l, ad hlsm bz. W s
 a
li

l
s
a
is i
h mids

h ildss; i ac
, i
sms
ha

s
 

y aly as 
 as i
s i
s
h  ads  i-divs,

h s
as a 
cid
 s
a
is  villas, b

sm
ims
a
 lac i
h middl  ilds, h
h is  si
 habi
a
i. Sm ma, has, may is m
h bd  a
di
ch, h sh has b s
i, i
h a child i h ams, ad
all
h icials ill 
d ad hav a cha
i
h h, hil
h
d-a
d asss, h
a

h s
a as a ma

  c s,


ad sm
 cia

s.
Wh sm l s
a
i, hich is s
d by  small h s, is
achd,
h caia ids a immdia
ly s  dd by


i
ld m i aci
vlv
ha
s i
h vy bad bims, ad i
h li

l
sil
balls dali
hm. Thy a all sa
hd i a d l
cllc
i  as, id, sd, aild, ad
id 

hi bdis
ayh, hil
hi ls a b d  i ics  sac
i, ad
hi

aa
ly casd i  l
ics. Wh
hy cm m  ca

ll,  ca ma's as divi
hi sch--sm a
is hich v
a
iv Saiads ca hadly ds
ad.
Ams

h scims  day cmsi
h
ma, hs ac as simly blac
m di
ad


i aliv, ad h aad

hi

h
cdi
i
 
,
h 

ia la
i
h ss 
d
h, as
d smh 

il
   ld

s , h smd ac
ally
as 
hi i his
a
chs   damas
,

 his bac
,

h

i
h a ma
 a sail-cl
h shi
. O slv 
h la

 as 

yll c

, hil
h 
h am as ccald m vi by a sh

ma
 hs-hai ad a ic  ca
s

h. A sash  add
scal
cicld his ais
, ad his l x
mi
is  clsd
i ixssibls mad  a
-s
i i
h
h hai 
sid. H had a
l s
ic
i his had, ad as accmaid by a lyx-li
 d, h
dv d dily a-s
is as
hy ll m a caia id. This
 ld ma had 

h, ly  y, ad as vy m ch b
. H ad

h 
h aci
s  s ch masss  di

ha

hy m s
hav b
dsid by Pvidc as lacs     ds
i

 isc
s.
Ths bas a ally s i small cmais, ad i
is 

advisabl
 aach
hm
 aly, as
h is a dal  _si

d cs_ ams

hm. Whc
h  
chs cm, ad h
hy
liv,   ca
ll, 
h is 
v  
hs dcayi ld

s, i
h
h bi ch ch b m
id, a
hi s al ha 
s.
Thy sm
 xis
simly--bca s
hy d'
di--m m c
 habi
. Th a bas,  c s, i all c 
is; b
s ch
dadd, misabl bis as  m
i ba
i l I
aly ad billia

Sai, a
 b s i  
h a

h ld.
A

his  slss s
a,   xss
ai mvs  aai a

a d six mils  h , ad
h is   
h hal

ill  ach

h aci
ci
y  Avila,  dd by Hc ls, ad
h bi
h-lac 
S
. Thsa. I
s dcayi ld s

s, i
s hih m ldi cas
l, i
s
G
hic h ss, ad i
s la ch chs, hav all a vy sa
 asc
.
I
is s  dd by a
mili
ay alls, l
y, massiv, ad y,[6]

h h hich
h lis
lss-l
i a
ivs hav ss m
h ci
y
i

h ildss a d by mas  a
ays  m s
hic
ss.
Th is sm
hi sad ad imssiv i si
his aci
ci
y, i
hich
h a s may mais   ad ad ,  iv 


h ixabl had 
im ad
h cld blih
 dsla
i. Wha

a sm mih
b achd m s ch a
x

h m
abili
y  all
a
hly ad !
As i
 ma

h slmi
y 
h sc m cml
, hil 
 sa 
i d i   h 's hal

h h
h da
ld s

s
 Avila, a  al cssi cam by, cdd by a
  
h l-li
 ca
s, bai
hi s
i ad s l-lss b d, hdd
i blac
m c
 sl, i
h scac a smblac  h mai
y i

hm, sav
h hly-l
i ys, hich, amids

h d day,
lacd  
ivly a
s m 

h cav s yhls i
h mas
s
hich
hy . Th m  l cssi csis
d, as s al, 
shav is
s, a

da
s bai lamba x, ad child sii

h Mis; i a d,
h as all
h m
y aa
y i
h hich

h Ca
hlic Ch ch dsi
s
h dad i
hi las
a
hly hm. Th
ci as ai
d a bih
cims cl , ad a
y as as
d a

h lc
by a chai,
 b i adiss a

h Day  J dm
.
Wh  had
a
   lacs i
h
ai aai,
h s
am as 
,
ad  mvd , ad ally icasi   sd
ill i
achd
h
cd
d vlci
y  i mils a h . This a
ly alamd a
lady i
h caia, h,  d b
, as 
ha
Saish Csva
iv
a
y hich s
his as
hy a. Pl i Amica, v
h
ladis,
a
 ma

s m ch m i
ly. A aci
dam as
avlli
by ail 
h is

im i h li, ad h
h "smash ," hich
is alms
a ma

  c s am   -a-had ids, cam, ad
a
i -a
is aivd
 cay h  i
h
h 
h  dd  a
s

ch, sh as i
 as
ishd h
ld
ha
i
as a accid
,
as sh had
h h

h hl
hi a  la -aad a



h b siss  vy-day ailay
avlli, ad


i
all i

cm
ably. I ac
, sh as a
h i
s
d
ha 
his i h
ii
ia
i i
  
hs s
ii icid
s hich i
is
h 


avlls
 c 
 m  
ly i Amica
ha lsh.
Mahil  lid 
h h day is,
h a dis
ac b dd
by ba m 
ais. W ass v vas

lss lais s
 i all
dic
is, as a as
h hiz, i
h h  b
 masss ad b lds
 ai
. A sc m xssiv  lm ad dsla
i ca
b
imaid. Th h  am
s, sca

d ab
as a as
h y ca
ach, a ild  ccasially i
 m s has, hich l
li


h mais   id ci
is  a 
 a;  sad idly v

h y xas, li

h
mbs 
h acs hich c ihabi
d

hs is. I
is imssibl, idd,
 cciv ay
hi m
a s

ha
h c
d cd by a sc a
c s ad ad s
dsla
.
Th ailad  ba
 ascd by ad al iclis, ma
i id
cas
s v
h s
y
ac
s. Th am 
 ii s
ill, my,
a
ic, ad  d i
m s
hav
a

 c

h h, i sm
lacs, mils  slid ai
, m s
hav b a
. W  
cmmci
h asc

h G adaama M 
ais, hich vl
m
aa
h cai
al  Sai. This i _cail_,
h cs
 c
i 
hich is smha
simila

ha

h ailad v
h Smmi
Pass a Tis
, s m 
s al
i
ds by c vs ad ad al iclis.
Th G adaama M 
ais, i
h 
h sias,  hich
h icial
a
h Sm Sia,
h Sia Ma,
h Al xaas,
h Sia
Nvada, ad
h Sia d Rda, a ma
abl a
s i
h asc

 Sai. S  di
h lais  Cas
il ad La Macha,
h hihs

 s ch x

i E , i
h s
 a
al b la
s,
hy a
ival abl

h Saiad i
h dc  his a
iv lad. Thy v
sm
 cs
i

 dis
ic
mal divisis 
h ihabi
a
s. Th
hl c 
y
h s aas
 b md  sval i
chd cams,
ad is admiably ada
d  a a  s
s--a
ic laly   illa
aa, by
hi s
ill i hich
h Saish m 
ais  abld

  s ch a s ccss l sis
ac

hi Fch ivads.
Hih ad hih  d
h ad, 
il  s ddly b s
i
 a
i  i s
s, hich da
d
h sids 
h m 
ais.
Th  d s,
h asc
 hich as s sava,  aidly
illi i
h  l mis
as
h s s
l

hm,
 all i vai s

i
s  all ly 
h l
i as  dis
a
m 
ais,
hich smd
 ml
aay, av  av, aais

h cla, a
havs. Th middl  d as illd i
h a bad xas  am,
s-li
lais, m
h bsm  hich, a
 al dis
acs,
d
m s c
s, cl
hd

hi s mmi
s i
h i-
s. Wha
a
sc
i
as! S ch a sc  mild lm ad ly
h cil 
Salva
 al c ld d--
h  al l ma 
h d s
s
avi 
h m 
ai's sid, ad
h l ays 
h si
i s 
sh
i
h h
h da
ss li
 cls
ial as, hil hih abv a
 a
hy cl dl
s saild
a il
h h
h li id 
h, li


s  s al msss.
Th shads  vi  alli 
h a
h, h a vas
, y
diic  lmy majs
y lmd hs
ly i
h
ilih
, s
i
d
h shads  a da
i m 
ai, ad all al amids
a
i  ild ad dsla
 ad . This as
h Escial,
h ad
cv
-alac  Phili II., ad
h b ial-h s 
h Saish

is. S ch a diic, alms

h vas
s
i
h ld, i s ch a

s
, ad s 
h is

im a
s ch a h , imssd  i
h
a li  d ad a. W had li

l m
ha a lims 
his
his
ical b ildi as  lidd as
. O  caia mvd , 
illd i
h da
m i
h b babis, ad sldis i
h hi

is
ad d
 ss; hil,  c s, a dash  alic as 
a
i,
i
h
h d   iv cia

s i sim l
a sly,
 d
baabl
h a
msh i
h caia, all
h ids  hich
 hm
ically clsd, i d
 xcl d
h
ibl sh ai.
A
las
, hv,
   jy, Madid as achd. N
hi c ld xcd

h x
m lish ad bai
y 
h _ad as_,  hs svi
y
 had had s m ch. Is
ad  asac
i
h l a, ad ma
i
hay  's shi
s, a vy hadsm da
y  ma i im, havi
sa
isid himsl 
h

h    s
a
m
,
ha
  

ssial sm ls, d s a cia

, av s a lih
m
his ,

 his ha
, bsvd
ha
h immsly admid
h
Bi
ish Cs
i

i, ad
h dd s a b ham. Th xis
c 
s ch a class  icials a
a
mi s is ally 
a mixd d.
Imai ha
mih
hav cc d had  b s sc
ibl da h
s 
Albi 
hi
avls i
h a ivalid  sly mamma! W
mbl 

h ac  mid  
 Elish y  ladis,
avlls
 Madid.
Madid, l
d  mly as
h cai
al
  Sai, is x
mly
disai
i,[7] ad simly a bad imi
a
i  Pais, i
h li

l
 
hi i i
 iial Saish c s
ms  li. Th s


achi
c
 is md, aish; i
has a ibad aaac, ad

h s  hi
ash has b
 libal. Al
h h i
h c
 
Sai
h a  mais 
h Mish  mdival ids, 
hi

 s

h b

 class  a
; ad i y  ld id a bi

dih
, di
y, ic
s  Saish s

, y m s

a



h bac
s

lm
s, 
h S
. Gils's  Madid--i ac
,

h
Call d Tld. Th, ba
h a bl  s
y, i
h s a

i b m
s c
li a
d b babis i
h s , a dy ch chs, s alid h ss,
is
s ad bas, 

 sa
 ish, v
abls, al, ad ds,
y may, a
 mvi y  had
chi   mm
m y 
s, imai y sl ams

h sl ms  Nals.
Wi
h
h xc
i  sm  m 
h middl ad l classs,
h i blac
sil
as 

h bac
s  md _chis_, ad 
S day,  a

h b ll-ih
, has a bi
 ld lac,  a s
ai
h ac l ma
illa, 
hs da
bs i
h aml s
i
s

ha
s
h s

s. Th
avll has aly a 
i
y 
bsvi i
h cai
al
ha
dlica
 ad i a
li
i i
h
h
a hich  alays asscia
 i
h   idas  Saish ladis; b

h may ccasially ma
vy bih
ad mai lacs dic
d


h si
 sx by ys  dazzli l s
. T s
h mac  ld
Sai, hv,  m s
 d s
h
 am Svill ad his
ic
Gaada, h, by
h ay,  d 
i
d
 , as vybdy has
b
h b; ad i
has  bcm a ma

  li
ima
 id

 b abl
 say: "Bhld b y a ma h has 
b

h
Alhamba!"
Th m i Madid, al
h h sm
ims ad m hl
 s i

h 
hdx csia
 cla
, ma

hmslvs vy cc
ic i
aaac by ci
hi hads i
h
ha
la
s
iv
i 
h
Evil O,
h md Fch chimy-ha
; ad
ha
,
, i a vy
xaa
d m. Th

 ic i
y 
hs
 a
icls 
maly dss m s
b s ad l

 b
h hly acia
d. T a

 is
, idd, h
avls a
a vas

lay 
im ad xs--

say 
hi  ch lly dlivi  his bdy as a as
- d

 i mabl las--i d
 s Sai ad
h Saiads as
hy
 h

 b, i
ally 
s li
 i i

h s l (al
h h, 

h li  s,  c ld v ds
ad
ha
aa
mical a
i),

 s Sai ad Saiads, i
h ma

  cs
m, a
all v
s, as

hy a, ad as
hy  h


 b.
Hv, h  a,  b

   s, saly ladd a

h
bs
h
l i Madid, 
h P 
a dl Sl, ad  a b d
 say
 did 
id i
as a maid ma, 
h a
hi
y  a ll-

acd
, is said
 hav  d his i,--all s ad  b

.
Th H
l d ls Picis ill
a
 a dal  ba
i m ay h
l
i E  i i
 cm
, claliss, ad civili
y. Si
a
d 

h s y sid 
h P 
a dl Sl  has
h las   l
i
 a v-chai ad b sy sc bl, as h sm
s
h mi
_ciaill_ i
h balcy. O
his s
, i m days, accdi

a  la ld,
h s
d a ch ch  hs d
h s , 
sm mys
ic as, maid l a
 i
had l
all 
h ds.
Th a
ay  d 
his ch ch as cs 
ly calld _La P 
a
dl Sl_, m hich
h s
_laza_ divs i
s am.
This  sac is
h li ad ha
 Madid, all
h icial
a
is 
h ci
y cdi m i
. H, all b siss is d,
ad las 
a
; sc la
is a 
d i
, ad li
ics
disc ssd (as m ch as is csis

i
h sal sc i
y); ad,
cs 
ly, i
is
h is
lac
 hich is s
. I
is

h xcha,
h b

i-i, ad
h al l . Th ais,
i
h las ad bad, mach
h h i
c a day; ad

hs h
 s midd, h as
h bs
chac, a

h
im    visi
, 
l
i 
h c 
ac  Q  Isabl II., as sh assd i h
chai
ad  -i-had  m ls.
FOOTNOTES:
[5] M

 i ld Fch, 
 b s v
h Abby d 
Mdmham, a Halyd,
h sa
 Si W. R. Clay
, Ba
., h

h Hll-Fi Cl b hld i
s ca sals.
[6] Sm 
h alls cmsi
h 
iica
is, hich a a saml

h ii s
ill 
h lv
h c
y, a 
y 
i
hih
ad
lv i bad
h.
[7] Th Madils, hv, a vy  d 
hi ci
y, hc
h
vb:--"_Hay a v
aa  l cil aa mia Madid_."
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER II.
MADRID.--GREAT ENGINEERING FEAT.--THE PICTURE-GALLERY.--PASTIMES
AND OCCUPATIONS OF THE MADRILEOS.--THE BATH AND TOILET.--QUEEN
ISABEL AND THE KING CONSORT.--THE IRGIN'S WARDROBE.--THE ROYAL
ARMERIA.--REMARKABLE PAINTINGS.--CHURCH IN THE CALLE DE TOLEDO.

Madid is by a
h ms
l ishi
  Sai; ad i
h is
s ch a
hi as ss, a
is
ic, li
ical,  scial, i
is 
c s
 b  d
hi. I
s s, hv, d a 
a

alma
  disadva
as, s ch as a iv i
h
a
;[8] a a

lva
i i
h mids
 ba sady lais, v hs
lss
s ac
h ids a v bli--i s mm h
ad blih
i, i
i
 i
h
 ad ici ba
h, m
h ss 
h G adaama
a; s

s idically liabl
 shs, 
 ai, b

b ll
s; calss vm
; a dis
 s
 l  la
i; ad a

al
a
 iva
 
is, hich has b all b
s
amd 
.
O has, hv, a a
dal ab
_Psis
a_ miis
s, h
hav c
aily is
i

d vai s cmais  cdi
,
 hich is
i
h b  ailays hich is aidly sadi
h h

h
c 
y, ad cc
i
h cai
al i
h
h Mdi
aa,
h
A
la
ic, ad
h N
h. D h
, hich as c m ch dadd, is
 a
las
dd imssibl, as a iv,
h Lzya, has b
cd c
d m
lv la s , ams

h G adaama m 
ais,


h ci
y;[9] a ii a

ha

h Psis
as
s a v

id  bii b
h 
ic 
h i
lli
i,
ad hich
h is
s l
 i
h a
s sici, as sm 
h
is
- i
s 
h a
A
ichis
, Civilisa
i,
h a

da

ids  hich, i
hi ii, a Id s
y ad Pss. A
 
ai  al a
(!)  lays i
h c
 
h P 
a dl
Sl,  hich
h ihabi
a
s a x
mly  d.
Sm 
h la b ildis  Madid a ambi
i s i dsi,
b
smh
hy aa as limsy as i
h ma
ial sd i
hi
cs
 c
i  as
bad. Th al asc

h s

s,
cmad i
h
hs 
h ld Saish ci
is, i
h
hi massiv
ad vabl b ildis, is md ad al
y. Th is  
ha

imsi maiicc hich i sm 
h ld vicial cai
als
sms
 accd s c
ly i
h   cc
i  Saish dii
y
ad ad . Th a
lv
ha
s, a sldid b ll-i, a
m s alac,
h is
ally  ic
s i
h ld--
hich
h Saiads a idb
d
 a a
x


 Cmll, h
blidly sld
hm
h i cllc
i hich h aia
d m his

i's c
s a
 h had b h
his l

h j dicial m d 
Chals I.
 a s ccss l iss . I a l mad calld
h Pad,

h ids a v bli, b

h ls v; ad al
h h
h
a
 mlachly s  li

l
s, hich i sm mas  mid
 
hs i a Nah's-a
,
hi a

m
s
 ach ay
hi li
 a
dc

h, m a sil  hadd sad ad s
s, a si laly
disha
i. Am 
h lacs vidd 
h am sm

h
Madils,
h is a casi, h
hy may lay a

h l ca
iv
am  _

-
- aa
_. Th h
h m
lis 
h
idm,

h is  ca
hdal i Madid. Sm 
h shs a vy sldid;
ad
 iish
his aid s vy, I d scacly m
i
ha

h is
hadly a sil m
h i
h
a cia i i
,  a sli
ay s

ha
is

 md i
h
h d  
bacc sm
.
A
is h a
a s
ads
ill, ad
h mal ad ma
ial s cs hich
ais a a
i i
h sc

h ld a b
slly ad bly
dvld. Li
a
, hich
h I isi
i i as

ims dd a
il s cc a
i, has v b abl
 cv
h  d i
has
ls
, ad is  alms
abadd.[10] Fic li
ical c
s
s ad
a
y aimsi
is cc y all
h sa
im 
h Madils; ad i

hs
h ay Ds a alays ady
 a, ally i
h m
sii

ha disc
i. Th l , i 

h ba
h, is, hv, a
av i
 ay  assi
h
im i Madid, as i Ld. I
h

Pad, as i R

 R,  m
s i
h sm vy alami dadis,
h av   i
h a cld s
a, as i
hy i
dd
 mas  him
m had
 
. Y
m
h bs
a
hi
y, as ll as m   
bsva
i, 
 c
ly ll
ha
i
his c 
y, hich is a
vy  ,
hs dazzli ss ad sas id
ha
id has a
had s
 l
 mai
ai aais
v
y, ad
ha
cs 
ly all
is 
ld
ha
li

s. Al
h h
h b
is bih
, i
 
ly
c
ais  s
c
i. Al
h h
h sca b vivid, ad
h i s
c

i
 i
b  s,
h may b  shi
ba
h. Ad s
hs

ba
i l Alls, hm  bhld s c
i
h
bs 
hi cas i
h
s ch diiid ac, hil li "a
ial ba
y" v ailis, may

 b cmad 
ly
 hi
d, b

 ai
d s lchs. As
a ill s
a
i  Saish mas,  hav lad  d a
hi
y

ha
a ill s
i s miis
  vm
, a ma  hih d ca
i ad

as
, maid a 
ih
i a h
l, ad  ld v d i
ha

id all
h _a_
 cha
h a
 i his ashhad basi.
"Th a
h S
h,
h a
h
h ba
h," mih
ll b a Saish
vb, i i
is 
; ad, i ac
, as all ahs
,
h Wash
is ly
 b  d i
h N
h.
N i abl
i is s li

l ac
isd by
h hih classs,  may
ll as
ha
m s
b
h s
a
 
h ls
? Wh
h sav y

h
is
ld,  ca ly xclaim i
h a as, Wha
d
hy d,
h? Ths
ba
i l ils, s ll _sis_, s aily dssd, ad s ai

 bhld--ha
s bs
i

 hav
hy 
his is
cssay 
h

il
? "Wll,"  a
ld, "
hy a is
 c
d m aly y
h by

hi mdical adviss
ha
a
 is hlsm, ad, as i
ds

h s
i cas ad  s, m s
b avidd. Cs 
ly, c a 

hy a

m

 cla
hmslvs, as Djaz
sd
 d, i
h cld

cam, a dy
l, ad sm hi
 sad."
Th Saiads, i ac
, a a idl
l, ad hav  dsi

cc

hi sl
h l habi
s by
h baci c
s  cld a
;
ad al
h h
h a
ladis, i
h

 absc  all cc a
i,
hav  
h
as

ha
ha
 s
i
hi ba
y ad ami

hi vai
y,
hy d 
csid a
 cssay

hs ds:
mv, a
 is scac, ad
h da. Th mdical m byd

h Pys, h mih
b xc
d
 cc
s av a ,
a ca
s  habi
, csva
iv m c  d ca
i, ad
cmaa
ivly c
 m
h maid 
h sci
iic ld. Th
Saiad
, bsids bi a hydhbis
, has alays a shivi
dad  sh ai. Whv h is as
d
  ayh, i
is alays
_m y i_ i
h him. Ad y
i si
 
hs c s
ms h is 
, 
s s, m hal
hy
ha 
h m.
L i  day 
h Pad, a a
cla

i  hs as had,
ad
h Q   Sai, i a  caia, da by six maiic

m ls, all v silv ad ld, dashd as
, sc
d by a d
achm

 cavaly. By h sid sa
a diay-l
i y  ma, h,  
imd, as
h Ki-Cs
. Evy Sa
day a
, H Majs
y
visi
s
h Ch ch A
cha[11]
 ay h sc
s
 a cas, blac

d dll, hich is ad, i a vy 
s  ma, i am
s

c s
d i
h ld ad s
i i
h ci s s
s  s ici
val 

 b ild hal a dz hsi
als ad d
h   Madid  li.
This ima, hich is s sd
 hav b cavd by S
. L
, is said

 hav b b h
m A
ich, ad  la s s
i
i ascibs

i

h   mi miacls.
Wi
hi
his ch ch   sh
h c 
dss i hich
h Q  as
aayd sm yas a h a a

m
as mad  h li. I
is,

 c s, vy sldid, ad
h bld-s
aid bs  s
d


h ii as a i 
h Q 's a
i
d  h dlivac
m
h am 
h assassi. As
h i
is a
d vy ya 
h
aivsay day,
h ii[12] has  ab
as sldid a adb as
ay md Q   Shba.
Whil
h v,  ha
v h calld himsl, as xlaii
his
ma
abl xmliica
i  his Mach's i
y,  bsvd
ha
h
as sm
i a cia

;  hich , a
ally
hi
i i
as
h
cc

hi, cdd
 d li
is. Tha
 c
iay, hv, 

a d
   dl si a
c, by bsvi,-"S,
h a may 
sm
 h. I am i
hi
h bsm 
h
ch ch, ad my ac
is a csca
d."
Radi
his as  
hs si la _csas d Esaa_
 hich

h s
a m s
s bmi
,  s
d
h hly, b
a
h di
y,

lma i
h
h cia

 m hich  
 cidi lis  s
c lly divcd.
Wi
hi
h Ryal Amia a may i
s
i bjc
s. Al
h h
h
va
i i
h hich  ad a sd hich
h had  C
s
c  a
im
 chd,  a a
ic la s i
 am  i hich

h bdy  Cl mb s as c casd, li
 a jlly i a m ld, may
sav , has,  h-shi, idla
y, ad s s
i
i,  m s

ac
ld
h im
a
i
ha
 a s bjc

 i
. H a
h
sds  Phili II. ad  Facisc Piza, c s  P , ad

h
ha
 Chals ., Em  Gmay,

h i
h his 
i
am --
h ac
al s i
i hich h as ai
d by Ti
ia. Sval
vlvs 
h sv

h c
y, ad a a-saddl 
h Cid, a
als xhibi
d.
F ay h ishs
 jy a as
 ic
s i
 
dly,
ad  s s
ha
is 
a a
al
as
,
h Madid ally is

h lac. F b
Elish
avlls 
h,
h Saiads smi

 ca as li

l ab

h lis 
hi M ills ad las z',
as
hy d ab
Lch  C i
sha
, ad has 
s m ch. Th
is l
y  sac 
h li
 i
h ally, ad i i
s silc
h may dam aay i ac a  hay h s. Th a ic
s h,
 c s,  hich i s has s
amd i
s imss, ad  hich
all h a caabl  acia
i
h ba
y  a
az i
h
admia
i. Tha
d s C ciixi,  is
ac, by las z,
d cs a
c a imssi hich 
s 

h s
. I
h
mids
 a as
  lly da
ss, has havily  a cas s
a

 d
h dad m 
h aid ma. Th d  all his misy,

h li b h
by da
h, sms
 b dis
ic
ly dlia
d i
h
a

i
d 
ha
sa
, macia
d m,--i
h hal i
s ac vild
by
h da
hai hich alls v i
as
h had bs ad a

h
las
m
al sasm,--a sih
a
hich
h ds "I
is iishd" is
is
ic
ivly
   lis hil  az a

ha
mavll s d c
i
 c
a
. Th x
ic
  hich
h y alls is   a
bih
 chaac
--Th Ass m
i 
h ii, by M ill. Th
l
 childish, cidi icc i
h 
l ac is byd
xssi. As
h hav b isid i
s, s ly
h hav
b als isid ai
s, ad
his Saish mas
 m s
hav b
 
hm, d i
h cmsi
i 
his imm
al 
. Cls a

had is
h am s ic
 
h ia
S
. Jh, by
h sam had.
Bsid
h ba
i l by is a 
l lamb. Th li

l aimal has c

cidily, i
h
a sym
m  a,

h child's sid. As i

sh ld b i
h s   a s bjc
,
h cl i ad al
a
m

a bly siml, ad
ha
is
h s c  i
s ba
y.

las z,  c s, is s
d i all his s

h. Wh
h

h s bjc
 his 
ai
 b
h ha h
y bl 
h la
hsm
a , h is
h i
ssc  s

h ad

h, ad
h hihs

dlia
  a
ial chaac
. Th sldid cl i ad i
_chiasc _  Riba ca b cisd i sval  his ms

ba
i l d c
is. I
h c
 
h l ally
h s
s
a s ddly as
d b a ai
i hich ally dsvs
h

i
l
ha

h ca
al  ivs i
--a mavl, _El Pasm d Sicilia_,
 
h mas
ics  Raall. Th s bjc
is
ha
 Chis

alli d
h css; ad i

h, i
is a bl xaml  ,
cl i, ad hamy. Th dvlm

h h ma m is a
c
m sc la ad ac l, ad
h s 's s is xssd i
h
d l c. Th  i 
h i s, ms
 hich a aly,
i 
i
,
h siz  li, is c
i. F c 
a
m


h 
is a 
hy ival 
h Tasi a
i i
h a
ica,
albi

h la

 is cls
ial ad mys
ic; hil
his s
s
h
  a
hly sid  Chis
's a
, dic
i him as a ma bld
by s, 
ai
d by si, ad  iid by s i. Th xssi

h Savi 's c 
ac, as his ys m

hs  his m
h, a


h mm
h, sma
i d bl ad
a 
, h ai
ly dav s

 is m his b isd
s, is byd vy
hi
ha
has b
dic
d  cavas.
Fa
h , ams

his _mbaas_  ms, hich icl ds a l
aay  ic
s ay sil   hich  ld add
 a ci
y's am,
has a bl Ti
ia. M 
d (li-siz)  his s
dy Flmish
cha, is a ad ld mdival
ih
, dssd i chasd ad
damascd am . His  d, dd-l
i had is
h s
ll i

a siml mi, ad his bad  a 
's 
h shs a disad
 sal y 
bcmi i
hs h ma
 a a b siss,
ad has avidabl i
h li 
h cam. Wi
h s
 ad s
ady
l
, his l lac asd i his v s had, ady
 lac i
s
a
a mm
's d, h alls
ads
h ay.
A _Sa Sbas
ia_  G id, is a ai
i hich i
 ld b imssibl

 ma
ch, xc
by
ha
i
h cai
l a
Rm, by
h sam had.
This is, idd, a bl ic
 
h y  ma
y. O ca s by

h cs
a
ic xssi 
h c 
ac
ha
h is x l
i i a
h
ha
cais him, 
h is  ai
h, byd
h sc
is
ad s is 
his ld, ad vals
 him
h da  a hih,
b

, ad   li. Wha

 him a
h as b yi
hmslvs
 a

h 
h d i his ai lsh? His s l is abv, a aay
m ai, ad i
h jy  i imm
ali
y is  l ssibl

h ais  i
s a
hly bdy.
Th is a ba
i l ic
 by Babal a  a dyi il. Th d ll
y 
ilih
is ad ally di
 ih
i
h lly chamb,
ad
h ilm  da
h is slly a
hi 
h lic
i y,
symblisi
h d  all
ha
is ba
i l  a
h. W a
ic laly

d  i d c
i by G ci. Sm ic
d-l
i ld m a
s
al
hily aachi S saa ba
hi, ci ad m bhid
i
h 
s

chd hads, as i
hy  i
 ca
ch a b

ly.
T a
d ladis, by Ti
ia, i his ms

ammld s
yl, a
dis
ic
ly 
h lsh, lshy; b

hy a sldid scims 

ha
a
mas
's icicy i dlia
i
h h ma m-- his
cs mma
 idli
y


h i cl i ad xssi.
Th vas
ic
 by R bs 
h Ada
i 
h Mai shs

laily--i
h may h dd 
hs, hv--h A
, _la_ as i
may

b, m s
, li
 all
his m
al, hav a limi
. This limi
, i
h
s
is
ac, is h,
h mi bi hld 
 Na
, Na

hsl cis 
i
h dlih
a
h  lc
i, mis
a
i i

a
h sl. Th limi
a
i h a

aid is Pc
i. W s s

ha
xssi  ada
i, as s i
h i
y acs dlia
d,
is byd imi
a
i. Th h admiabl is
h  i, h  s

h cl i, h c

h aam
 lih
ad shad, v
s assd,  has  alld, i
h by
h mas
 himsl  by
Ti
ia. Wha
a adva
a
 md a
i
 ld b i  c ld ai
sm isih
i

h chmis
y 
h cl s sd i as
c
is!
Why sh ld   Rylds ad Lacs ad aay, i sm cass i

m 
lis illd  i
h al
i
s, h
h ai
is 
h
six

h c
y s
ill 
ai
h h s 
hi cavas i all
hi
is
i sld ? Th cims day   
h Mai i
h
ic
 i s
i sms as sh ad as billia
as i
as 
h
day h i
as ai
d by
h mas
's had.
O c s i
aas sm
hi li
 s m
i i s
 add   bl
cmm
ais 
h  m s ms i
his ma
chlss cllc
i


hs 
h a
j ds h hav cdd s; y
, chac, i
his siml shi  a
, a li

l 
b s
 
h siasm 
h
s bjc
s hich s
i
 a syma
h
ic chd i
hi
h h mbl ilim as
h asss, may b add.
Th a
ic
 by las z calld _Las Mias_--Th Fav i
s--is

hy 
h dis
i ishd ad bs
d  i
s ai
 by his
a
, Phili I. O
h l
, as  vis
h 
,
h a
a
is

is s a
his asl
a
i
h 
ai

h Ia
a Maai
a,
da h
 
h
i, as sh s
ads amids
h a

da
_mias_.
Th d
h 
h bac
 d,  hich is ai
d
h dis
a
all 

h a
a
 chamb, i
h a mi i hich is s lc
d
h
acs  Phili ad his cs
, is admiably iv, al
h h  a
a
h mys
iid i dav i
 xlai h ss a
 b
lc
d i a lass h bdy is i 
 i
xc

hs h
a 
lc
d. Th smb ai 
h i
i 
h ld m is


h i
sl. M
y i
h c

h b
s is savd by

h dis
a
lih
s
ami i
h h a  d. O
h ih
, i

h  d,
 av i
 das a
yi i
h a la d. Th
ic
 is a bl di 
h dms
ic aam
s  Saish
yal
y i
h sv

h c
y.
Wh i
as iishd, las z i id 
h
i h
h ay
hi
as a
i i
h 
. "Ys,
h is 
hi, ad  ly,"
lid Phili; ad,
a
i a b sh m
h a
is
, h
acd i
h his
 had
h d css  Sa
ia,
h hihs
d i Sai, 
h
ai
's bas
.
Th a,  c s, as i all allis,  d  dad Chis
s ad
liv As
ls; ad als vy vivid d c
is i
h h-li by
 Gya, hs li aas
 hav b, bsids
ha
 a a
is
,
c 
av i
, ad b ll-ih
, a mix
 
ha
 D J a ad
Ba M cha s. I
 ld
a
 vl ms
 dscib hal 
h 
s

hy  hih admia
i c
aid i
his ichs
 cllc
is;
 i
hlds, bsids
h al mass  i
s
as s,
 Rahals,
six
y-
 R bs', 
y-six M ills, i
y-
h Tis', six
y- 
las z', 
y-
h Ti
ias,
hi
y Ti


s,

y-

adyc
s, i
y-  B hls, i
 P ssis,
 Cla ds,


y-
h Syds, i
y-iv Gidas, i
y-ih
Ribas,

W vvmas, _c m m l
is aliis_. Thy hav b cllc
d chily m


h alacs  La Gaja,
h Escial, ad El Pad. Wh i
is said

i
is
h is
cllc
i i
h ld,
h xssi all ds m
a
ic laly

h  mb  ac
al ms ad mas
ics c
aid

hi,
ha
 ay cml
 chlical sis  schls ad ally
dvld b
h y.
Th x
i 
h ally,  Ral M s d Pi
as, as s
m
h Pad, is la
ad classic, b


  ; ad i
is
dciddly
 l  i
s hih
.
O c s i vy c
i
al

h is alays
ha
achi
c
al
blac
-ds,
h Ca
hdal,
 b _d_. B
, ais b

h
divii
y sidi v
h ay Cc
y,
h is  a
Madid.
Th is 
hi a
 a ca
hdal
ha a di
y, bi ch ch i

h Call d Tld, h   ald i
h
h sih
 vai s
dlc
abl lics: s ch as a sai
's
 i ic
l ad a ma
y's


h  a vlv
c shi. This ch ch is ams

h _ a
is_

h  classs. I
as a
al, cs 
ly,
ha
, 
bih
d is, sh ld b s sd
 b abl
 s, d, 
ds
ad 
hi i
h
assis
ac. W ,
h, sc
d
all v
h b ildi by a sic
ly-l
i ld ha  a lady, h, i
h

h  maii
s
s
ic
i 
 h ja li
 a dilaida
d
mils
, ca
d sad havc i h a

m
s
 a
ic la
 "_la li a
d lc d Esaa_." Wha
sh said   ci dic
iay c ld hav
abld s
 i

. Sh smd a
ic laly 
h sias
ic ab


h sai
's
, ad, as sh i
d i

, smild s
ly 
h
sid  h m
h h
h 

h as. N, h  a sh s ch

his as sai
s'
s i ic
l, 
h b

ld
as  ma
ys,
 ma
 a i
 v aai
 d b

h a
h
ici
y 
h
sam  a mm
. Fis
ly,  ass m a aaac  cd li
y m
m
ivs  d
as
; scdly, 
h as
ha
i
h ld lady
h xhibi
s
hm ss  is i
s
d i
h a
icls b h



ic,
h is 
i ha
may 
b v
ally d cd 
's dlc
a
i, v
 a hial  i
hich as c sh
 
   ids, i a ch ch i I
aly, as "sm 
h da
ss hich
cvd Ey
." W v cam acss ay y
hs
  s aily
bl
d i
h h as
his yll ld lady, h lld s li
 a shad
i

h vy s

s, sca
chi hsl i
h  had, hil i
h
h

h sh
id
 aa i
 a  d


h s
bbl 
h
 
a 
his bald had.
W
ha
vi did l x i sly   
h a
c
i
al
s
adi dishs: "Cc
ad Salad"--
i
hs
adi
ha

h m
a
icl l
d, i i
did 

as
, as i i
had da
d
his li,

by vilc, b
m sm a
al disas. Bi i Sai, 
calld  a b

l  Shy  Xs,
h is
lass l  hich


s by
h
ha
li
 a b ll-d ad hld s
h. Th x

mi, a
 ba
as
i a

h ch l h   iv 
a
hich, h aaly
ically csidd, smd
 csis
chily 
chd bms
ic
s ad dad lis,  s
a
d by
ai 
h
Escial.
FOOTNOTES:
[8] Th Mazaas.
[9] Th i, S L ci dl all, as ca
d Ma s dl Lzya.
[10] Th _A al  P blic Is
 c
i_, v
hlss, ivs a m s

lis
 a
ial libais ad
hi c

s. Th  mb  vl ms
c
aid i
hs s
ablishm
s is 1,166,595, sad v
h
cai
al ad vics. Th libay  Madid al c
ais 390,000;

ha

h C
al Uivsi
y, 300,000;  Bacla, 136,000; ad
 Salamaca, 55,000. Th a simila is
i

is 
ly 
h
C
i
, b
i
h Balaic ad Caay Isls;
ha
 Palma ad
Majca c
ais 35,000 vl ms, ad
ha
 Mah aly 11,000. As


h achivs,
h 
i his
y 
h c 
y,  i
s c s
ms
ad li
ical li, may b said
 b s
d i
hm. Th a
70,278 ac

s  as i
h ld alac  Simacas, 35,000 a

Alcala d Has, 34,000 i
h achivs 
h C  Aa, ad
97,000 i
h a
ial his
ical cd ic. As ads
h  blic
is
 c
i  Sai,
h a a
s
27,000 ia
schls; 77
is
i

is 
aii
achs, ad 5 
h da ad d mb 
blid.
[11] A
ich.
[12] Th ii i Sai, bsids havi a adb  al

ha

a dz a
hly s, ad a cllc
i  jls hich  ld
a

Msss. Hacc
ad Emma l m
hs
 val , alays as a yal
c, ad a
s as . H h shld csis
s 
h bls
ad
ha h
is
dams i
h c 
y, ad sh sssss ladd s
a
s,
h
v s  hich a ivs
d 
h mai
ac  h shi,
cssis, &c.
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER III.
THE ESCORIAL.--ITS PRECINCTS.--SPIRIT AND CHARACTER OF THE
EDIFICE.--MAUSOLEUM OF THE KINGS OF SPAIN.--MELANCHOLY
GUIDE.--SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGES.--ROYAL REMAINS.--CHARLES .--PHILIP
II.--THE PLAZA MAYOR OF MADRID.--QUEEN ISABELLA AT THE OPERA.
Th villa i
h vicii
y 
h a
alac is calld El Escial
m
h a
i
y  sci  i hich is  d s
 ab

h
ihb hd,
h _dbis_  x
ic
i mis. Th i, m

h mids
 hich iss
h m s mass 
h scd Phili's
cv
-alac, is vy l ad lmy--a s
v hich  may
say, i a
ivly,
h sabl i  dsla
i has havily. Th
masss  b
 masy c md
h ics 
h alac hich

h Fch ds
yd i a, ad
hy  cv
h sids 
h ba
m 
ais i
h
hi  is  la s a d. Th  la
i 
h


i villa, h a s
hi i s al, csis
alms

ily
  bas, cali
h h
h misabl c
-s
 s

s, i
as hich scacly ccal
hi a
dss. H y-yd ds l,
li
 lvs, ams

h b
 alls. Th hl ladsca is ild
ad lilss, ad   lac ads a aay v lly lais


h sad hiz, i
h 
hi
 sh
h y, a
i d by s ch a
xas  y s
y is, b
s
s  m  l i, ad
h
l
y a
s  sha

d m 
ais i
h dis
ac,
h y ia

il 
h cv
i
sl lmi i
h mids
li

h s
d s
ladma
 sm ixabl a
 s

 
a
ch
h cycl  as.
Th lac is   a
slmi
y, ad  ca
aach i
i
h

li ssd by i
s lm;  as
ha
ai l imssi a
all

allvia
d by
h s alid ad dcayi aaac 
h m h mbl

h ma habi
a
is i i
s ihb hd,
h ima
s  hich 
 ally d ll, hlss, ad sad i
hi asc
.
Th Escial i
sl may b dscibd as a m s ha  ai

md i
 a
ia
i
 hl--a ch ch, alac, ad cv
. T 

i

h sii

h lac
h mid 
h i
 sh ld b imb d
i
h
hs cld ad lmy h s hich chaac
isd
ha
 Phili
II., i
s  d. Th a
 
h ma, h as a
c a ds

ad a bi
--i a d, a mach d ca
d by cclsias
ics--ads
a
y

h a
 
h imms b ildi hich h ad. T b
abl
 dscib,  sh ld l. Ad h, i
his vas

mb-li

diic,  ds l a idscibabl a, a ss  va
i
i
h c
mla
i 
h mih
y 

h h ma i
llc
ad
imaia
i
ha
m s
hav b x
d i ccivi, lai, ad
xc
i a 
 s ch s
d s 
is. S s
i
i is 
d b
a a
vil, b
i
has aidd i dvli
ha
sii

 hich
  sm 
h ads
diics
ha

h as
has
asmi

d

 s--sm 
hm, day llis, li

his, v hil  admi


hm
 b maiic

s  a
. Th Escial, i ac
, is
h
mid  Phili i s
. I
xmliis  a i a
,  a
ial
c liai
is. I
is
h cs
ly caic  a ma--hal mach, hal
m
-- a  d ad bi
d sii
,
 s b
 
h ha h
y
 c
is  yal
y,
 i s 

 dsi
 
a

h
am  his lii s dv
i
 all
im ad a
is, al
h h
dvid 
ily 
ha
i
h mili
y ad siml i
y hich a
h
chaac
is
ics 
  dv
i, ad lac a bih
 diadm 
h
had 
is
ha i
h cs  ld  a vai dislay  sac
i
y.
Th Escial is said
  i
s ii
 a v  a
i
d mad
by Phili
 his a
 sai
, S
. Lac, 
h ccasi 
h
vic
y  S
. Q 
i, aid by him v
h Fch, ad

h
cs
a
ly xssd dsi  his a
h,
h Em Chals .,

 hav a b ial-h s  s i
abl Gad   himsl ad his
dscda
s. Aachi
h b ildi   m
by a mlachly
cclsias
ic, h l
d as i a lass  
i  ld d him a
ld  d. This sa as
 b   cd c

h h
h
x
siv il  b ildis. W assd ba
h a l
y 
al i

a l lmy cid, hich smd
 didl aay i
 dlss
dis
ac. As  l
d a d ad abv, a

h d s blc
s
cmsi
his m 
ai  ai
,
h d clsd bhid s i
h a
d ll, havy s d, sh

i s  ams

h id labyi
hi maz
 i mabl assas ad allis, cssi ad cssi 
a
h i icmhsibl d.[13] W c ld 
hl li a

h
mm
as i   biddi adi

h ld,
 li, ad
 h.
Th assas
h h hich   ld  
 vy da h
y; b


h vas
lmy halls  maiic
. Gim s
a
s  aad
al
h alls, ad
h cilis  add i
h ba
i l
ai
is,  adi. Th s
aicass  ascdd  s bad ad
clssal
ha

hy mih
hav s 
d
h
ad  ia
s. W 
d
als sm da
dam assas,  i
h sid  hich  ad l
s  lmy dam clls. As  lld   mlachly  id  as
d
him may s
is, hich  asd i sad
s, accmaid by
sihs. Sm m s c 
s, 

h day,  cvd i
h
h
a
ds i b

h s
s i
h hich
hy  avd, as

hy did 
h s
d s alls isi li
 Ti
a
mbs a d s.
W 
d a h  va l
d ally  sal, i
h achd , ad
alls all ablaz i
h
h ich cl d acis  ld ai
-
s,

s 
d by l
d cl ms  mabl i
h ildd cai
als, ad

s  dd i
h sldid cabi
s s
i
h jls. Ths la

 c
ai

h a-amd ill mia
d missals ad ma sci
s 
h Escial.
Th h cid ad assa,
h h clis
 ad 
al,
h h l
s i
s  aa
m
s h  i
h
as
y, lac, ad sil
, ad cmmadi
m
hi ids id-sad vis 
h dsla
 lais ad  d
m 
ais,  lld   djc
d  id, v ad a m
i his
as
lac. Passi
h h a l s
 day  cam s ddly
i
 a l
y, s b, ad slm
ml, s 
d by a
ai

is, massy ad slid  h i aaac
 s s
ai
h abic  a
ld. Wh  c
mla
d
h hih

h s
a
ly alls, h c ld

b
ad i
h d
h am 
 lab 
ha
m s
hav b
xdd i
h c
i  a b ildi  s ch amazi dimsis.
O 
h a
ds hich
hs bl
mls sv is
h d c
i

ha
li  va
i i
h hich  ca
b
b isid
h h 
s
hi cic
s. Dv
i is adily
idld a
s ch
al
as; ad
hs h cvd
h ac  E  i
h
hs Chis
ia
as,
 ll h
hy mih
bs
a
h i
  lc
all h
dsid
 ma
  ssi 
hi Chis
ia ai
h.
W x
ascdd a bad lih
 d-s
aid s
s, ad sa b
s
h hih al
a, md  a vai
y  ci s mabls, ad ilaid
i
h jas. Abv i
iss
h _
abl_, hich is s 
d

h
hih
 i
y-
h 
by bl cl ms 
h   ds 
achi
c
, ad cmsd  d ai
, ci s jass, ad ildd
bz; hil ba
h
h bad mabl la
m  hich  s
ad is

h Pa
--
h b ial-chamb 
h
is  Sai.
Hih 

h ih
is
h id 
h cll i hich Phili did,
ad
h h hich his las
az ll 
h al
a ba
h, as h


a all lac a

h mavll s ch ch hich d i
s ii


him. W  aachd a havy d,  add by
h s
a
s  Na

ad H,
h m i
h
h isci
i, "Na
a ccidi
," ad
h
la

, "Exal
a
ss." As   m
ish  id cdd s i
h his
mlachly mi,
h as sm
hi i his lac hich, as i

a s  ha
 
 s x
, smd
 say:-"K silc, child  ivli
y,  da
h is i
hs chambs.
S
a
l 
i
h chi s d
h s
aly slm ac;
Da
h is h i sii
, a
ch 
h sil

mb."
Th assa
h h hich h ld s as s da
ad lmy
ha

c ld ll him ly by
h lai lih

h
ch hich h
caid.
W dscdd a l sis  s
s, hich, as  c ld s by
h
ccasial la 
h
ch alli 
hm,  cmsd  a
ad ci s mabls, as  als
h alls 
h assa i
sl. N
lam  daylih
v ids i
s ay

hs s b
aa chambs ad
allis, ad i
as ly by
h c
ai lam 
h
ch
ha

c ld dis
i ish
h bjc
s a d s.
As  aachd a achd ally,   m
by a cld dam ba
h
 ai hich ll icily 
h b, ad
ld s
ha
  cls


h Ryal Ma sl m. W l
ad by
h
h h

ha
  
i
h sc  all
ha
a
h c
ais  m h  c
h
mih
is
machs 
h ld. Th m
al mais 
h
is 
Sai s i a c
aal va l
, i ichs isi  abv a
h


h , hich
mia
s i a s
 c la. Th a, icl di


h s,

y-six bdis h i d; ad
 m
y s aai


h s
( a
h c
)  ad h m
h,
 hm a
 ill
bably  dy
h ivil  idi
hi las
s
i-lac i

h
mb 
hi acs
s. T yas a Q  Isablla had
h lids
 all
h sachai mvd. P d i
s
as a
ally l
i
aachi
ha
 Chals ., ad h
h m ad a
s 
h
ms
 l mach  his
im   d aly i
ac
, all h
 s
azd  his mais i
h mild lis  c isi
y
ad a. S li

l al
d 
h liam
s
ha
,
h h aly

h h dd yas had assd,
hy c ld b asily id
iid by

hs h had s
h 
ai

h
i by Ti
ia. Th ac  his
s Phili II. had sh 
a
ly; b
all  
d
 b i d
cdi
i.
Th s a all  mabl, ba
i lly sc l
d; ad
h sa i
l 
h lam layd 
h ildd am
s i
h hich
hy 
dca
d. Th
is a 
h ih

h al
a, i
h i
s a

a 
c ciix, ad
h s 
h l
, all  yal dsc
,
i
hi day ii machs, b
 shai
h cmm a
 
h mai
y. I
ha
ich, ad i
hi
ha
shii cas

, lis ha

mais  him hm c
h a
is ad, _l Csa_ ad "Mas
 

h Wld,"
h Em Chals . Ba
h, is Phili II., his s,
 d 
h Escial. Wi
hi
his m  l chamb
h sii


h as
sa
s
 s,
lli s h li

l di
m
ha


h s
slav is
h ds
iy 
h mih
is


a
. F
h
s
--"Pallida ms   lsa
d," &c. Kis hs  has sha


h a
h m s
ish, al
h h
hi a
il c may s
ill
hb

h h
h lb. S bjc


h cmm l
,
hi ashs a sca

d

h id, ad
hi bdis hav m ldd bac
i
 clay.
"Th lis    bi
h ad s
a

A shads, 
s bs
a
ial
his;
Th is  am  aais
a
:
Da
h lays his icy had 
is.
Sc
 ad c
M s

mbl d,
Ad i
h d s
b  al mad
Wi
h
h  c
d scy
h ad sad."[14]
Th vi shads  alli as  md m
h Escial;
h
ild i s
s cvi
h m 
ai sids, smd li
 a d all
sad 
h lad; ad  l
d liily bac

h a
mass

h dii s diic ai all i
s dms ad iacls aais


h las
mlachly ly 
h s s
.
*

Th Plaza May i Madid is a i ma
 mdival achi
c
,

i
h i
s l
y am
d aads, ad i
s l da
acads  i
 d
h s a. Ths acads, 
a
ly, a  illd i
h
m s
y sl shs, ad s
alls h
h s
Bimiham jlly
is sld. I
his imms laza, i
h ya 1623, Chals I. 
Elad--
h Pic  Wals--i
ssd a b ll-ih
i h   his
b

hal i
h
h Ia
a Maia, s  dd by all
h ads ad
ba
y  Sai, ad a

dd by "
h lia
 miis
 B c
iham,"
as d his
y b
s  ld call him. Hv, as  all
,
h
ma
imial am
cam
 
hi, ad Hi

a Maia  Fac
as svd 
h ssial a


is 
h id-ma

Cmll.

Fm all
h c 
y a d,
h s a hi
 mass 
h yal alac
 Madid is s dmia
i v
h 
i ci
y,
h imms b ildi
aai, i cmais i
h
h small h ss a d i
, li
 a
hal am mis. Fm i
s
acs i
cmmads a s b vi 
id lais, s

chi li
 a yll sa

h G adaama m 
ais

h a hiz. I
as b il
by Phili .,
h ambi
i s imi
a


h maiicc 
h _ad ma _, h asid
 ssss a
sidc hich sh ld d saills isiiica
. Th b ildi
is, i sm s
, a bad ad ms
limi
d imi
a
i 
h Escial,
iasm ch as i
cvs a sac  ly   h dd ad sv
y- 

s a, ad is  m
ha a h dd 
i hih
--a m
l

h shll  a Escial. I
sssss a chal, c 
s, _a
is_,
 d  
acs, a c
villa  ics, ad sm did- 
lalss l
s   d, calld by c 
sy ads. Th si
a
i is
l
y, ad cs 
ly i
is a vi
abl
ml 
h ids, as H
Majs
y's sldis hav 
 xicd d i
h i
 ih
s,
h i
as
hi d
y
 b   ad. A a
_a
i_,  h dd ad

y 
s a, s  dd by a  
ic md 
hi
y-six
achs, ad add i
h s
a
s  vai s Rma Ems,--ad, 
a b d
 say,  sm 
h bs

hs maa
s,--cc is

h c
al a

h alac. O c s i
his, as i ms

h
v dmicils  yal
y,
h is a ad s
aicas, saci s,
cs
ly, ad maiic
, as dscibd by 
h sias
ic sih
-ss. I

is cs
 c
d  blac
ad hi
 mabl, ad add i
h sc l
d
lis 
h sam ba
i l s
. U  
hs Nal is

d
 hav lacd his had, sayi, "J la
is i c


Esa si dsi." Havi md
his li

l imi
a
i  Csa's
is
ac
i  ladi 
h shs  Bi
ai, h is als said

 hav bsvd
 his b
h Jsh--
h  
h had s
, "M
, v s sz mi x l  mi;" ad
h, i
h chaac
 
ivad, h ba
 c
mla
 i
h a ll-li a 
ai

Phili II.,
h h sbad  Bldy May  Elad,
h b ild 
h
Escial ad
h jc
 
h Amada. Nal, i ac
, is  

hs ivi
abls h hav l

h imss 
hi am  alms

all
h ci
is  E . Tha
s
 his
y, ld, ad
adi
i,

h is 
hi ab

h Cid a
Madid. Th chal yal, hich is
s d-classical i s
yl, is add i
h Ci
hia mabl cl ms,
ad i
h scs. I   dsi
 s vy
hi i
s
i,
 visi
d v
h cach-h ss ad hass-ms, i
h
h
hs-
ais mbidd i
h
im  Chals ., &c., iishi
i
h
h sldid Amia b m
id.
W had
h haiss  bhldi Q  Isablla a

h a,
h h
a a
msh
lably  m
bacc sm
. H Majs
y  a
a
h  diamds, ad a dss  hi
 _mi_ sil
, vlaid i
h
_
ll_, &c.; ad, al
h h i
is 
vy c 
i-li

 say s, 
may add
ha

h lady i s
i as ma
ably s

, ad 
h
middl a;-"Tha
 h ch
, ad 
 h s,
I a
ab dac blm'd
h s."
Sh mih
, i ac
, b cmad

h ab
s ladd i
h scal

 i
, m
id by
h 
Ovid[15]--a dsci
i hich  h


b vy a
iyi,  ds 

h vb
ll s
ha
"a bl sh is

h cmlxi  vi
?" Th   a  si  ba
i l
bl -blac
hai, ad
h xssi  h c 
ac idica
d
ha

i
as ssibl  h,  ad
h,
 

ai s
 iis 
h . Sh as, i ac
,  a
h is, ha
v la l  ld call
"a l s
y ma."

Th a-h s is i
ally 

y, ad vy Fch i aaac.

Th sc  s may bih
ims,  sly add i
h vai s
ds 
ih
hd, c
ib
d m ch

h billiacy 
h sc.
O
h mac  hav li

l  
hi
 say. Th sam ld
as hich a i v  
h ashiabl s
a  
h E a
cai
als a a
d h, ad   lih
is a

m
d. H als
a c i s a
ic blm, hich  had vi sly dav d

slv a
Ld ad Pais, s s
d i
sl
 s, h, amly, a
maid ma  a
h 
h s
a sh ld ivaiably hav a bass vic,
a villai a bai
, ad a lv  _ba
li_ a
? I am 
aa

ha
i diay li, h  

h hly s
a
  ma
imy,  
vics as a  l dscd m

 bass, 
ha

lm h
hav
 lav Elad  _ 
b siss_  a  yas, cm bac

i
h
hi
s c
ibly dd. N d b
, hv, s ch  d

s
d
s  al li as a
ic maas m s
hav a d as 
all
hy d.
FOOTNOTES:
[13] Wi
hi
h Escial vy
hi is  a clssal scal. Th a
16 c 
s, 40 al
as, 1,111 ids 
sid, ad 1,562 isid. Th
a 12,000 ds, 86 s
aicass, ad 15 s
s  clis
s. Th a
allis  300 
i l
h, ai
d i laba
 sc, 89
 
ais; ad i 
avsd
h 
i abic i all i
s a
s,
  ld hav
 al
i
y ad dd mils. I
is csidd by
h
Saiads as
h ih
h d 
h ld.
[14] Shily.
[15] "Pm a
a  b
i ab
s."
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER IX.
A BULL-FIGHT.--THE ARENA.--THE SPECTATORS.--PROCESSION.--THE
BULL.--APPEARANCE OF THE MEN AND HORSES.--NIMBLE FOOTMEN.--THE
COMBAT.--SCENE OF HORROR.--THE BANDERILLEROS.--THE ESPADA.--DEATH
OF THE BULL.
I,  c s, aid a visi


ha
c lialy Saish is
i

i,
h
cic s, i hich
h l  Madid a acc s
md
 l

hi
sava
as
  bld. Imms cds  bdi
hi 
s
s
i
h dic
i 
h a
a
ial sc
acl, ad li
 a s
a i
a

I as caid i
h
hm al
h lai ad d s
y ad.
Th a 
h m l
i
d as dai, ad sh
s  la h
 ald
i
h ai. Th l  aayd i
hi ays
hliday a

i 
lac ad ld; ad
h y  m lashd
hi bih
ys ad
ssd

hi blac
hai i ss

h sallis 
hi cavalis. P d
dams  b
h h
h  shi s
am i s
a
ly caias,
a

dd by hadsm alla
s,  shi ad
hi ami hss


 by
h sid 
h ai s hs av 
hy s h
. Hih

ad l, ich ad ,
h y  maid ad
h alla
y
h,
h
s
 sldi ad
h


i ba,
s  child ad
ad cs,--a 
i ci
y's l-- js
li ach 
h

b ad i
h
h am
h
h sad hss ad vhicls 
vy s
, ad
h masss 
hs h   
has
i i
h
blidi d s
ad ha
al
ha
yll ad.
Th b ildi i hich
h av i
 s

a
s lac is a
amhi
ha
, havi sm smblac

ha
 ld Rm,  a

h
,
h h hich a cicl 
h s
havs ca b s hai
abv li
 a bad ad az  ba. A a ad s
hi m l
i
d
 s
 li ad  shi  
ac
h h
h  m s ds ad
assas, 
il ba
a
 ba
as da
i
h
h
hic
cds  m,
ad all
h balcis ld i
h
h bih
am
s, avi as, ad
ai acs  m. Bl as a x
siv  d sac   d, 
hich sad ad sad s
 sad i a
icia
i 
h aachi
sla h
. I
is diic l

 cvy
h imssi i
h hich I had
a d m i s ch a lac
h la h
  y  ils ad
h a

l
 li

l child. I c ld 
b
d  ha
as
hs y 
ca
s had b b h

hi
h. Wh, a
las
,
h sa
s ad
bchs 
h hl id cicl  illd,
h alls smd hi

i
h
lv
h sad acs, ad ld i
h dlss cl s, hil
myiads  as  cs
a
ly avi, ad
h h m  ima
ic
cdd m
h vas
assmbla.
A
l
h a
 m
s dd i
h a l d, cla
; a sih  li
as m
h xc
a
m l
i
d; ad
hi ys lashd i
h jy
as
h s   d d 
h a
i  sad bl i ays 
dazzli lih
. Th ds 
h aa  d id, ad a ay
cssi, csis
i 
hs h 

a
 a
i
h s
,
mad i
s 
ac, accmaid by
h s d  ma
ial m sic. A
cavalcad  lacm[16] ad hsm, clad i
h vlv
a  a
by a,  ms
csic  s.[17] Ths  cdd by a bad
 
m, dc
d i bav aay  ld lac,
hi am
s 
h
bih
s
h s, a, vil
, s, ad cims. Ths m had v

hi sh lds  m s d cl
hs ad scal
las, bsids hich
ach  caid i his had a a
d sd. Th cssi as clsd
by
ams  m ls, aily a

id, dai a

hi hls a a
i
h
.
This alla
cmay as a lasa
 h sih


h y; ad
h
maid's ch
mih
ll dd as
h ac l ms 
h s

y  m, i
h
h ad si slli  d ad ai ba
h
h

ih
jac

s  sa
i,
h cl d a
als, ad
h sil
 hs,
assd c
bl, li

i bavly i
h s lih

ha
s
amd

hm. Thy all mad a l sal

 him h as mas
 
h
s
s
ha
day, ad immdia
ly a

h aa as clad  all
sav
h lacm, si

i sil
ad s
ill 
h bac
s  la
hss, hich had
hi ys clsly badad. Th vai s 
m,
ach i
h d cla
i had, lid a d, bhid,  ih


h hih d bais s  di
h i, as i i cas  sm
a
icia
d da.
Wh
h h  a cd 
h cmmcm

h s
aivd,

h vas
assmbla bcam h shd i silc, hich as a
las

b
 by a shill
 m
-al
ha
s ddly icd
h ai. A

a mm
 s ss, a bad d d l , ad i  shd a
ild b ll  Adal sia, dc
d i
h a li ibad,  ma. Th
midabl-l
i aimal hal
d i mid-ca, ad i
h l d mi s
s
s, lad savaly a d a

h a
aay  i
s sc
s,

a

h sam
im ai
h  d i
h i, ad ildly lashi i
s
ay
ail. I a
h is
a
, i
h his l hs ld ad
lvlld, ad amids
a cl d  d s
, h dashd  d
h i si

as a bl
dischad m a ca
a l
, h li i

h ai,  cas
i
d 
h a
h, vy
hi i his a
h. Th hss hich  i
his ay ll hadl i
h
hi ids i c sd ad d s
y has,
ad lay ivi 
h  d. Th  aimals  dismblld,
ad
hi bld
id
h sad, a sih
hich as 
d i
h
h
cy  "Bav, T!" ii m
lv
h sad
ha
s. A sc
 
m la
d i

h i, ad ic
ly sc d

h sc
 ac
i, avi
hi scal
ma
ls i
h ys 
h ad
b ll
 da  i
s a


i m
h _icads_, h lay s
a

ba
h
hi  dd hss. A

h sam
im
h m ls  div
i, ad
h h
bi alid,
hy alld  i
h
h cai,
hich l
a bad d
ac
bhid i
. Th b ll, mahil, chai
h, chai
h, dashd  a
  ,  a
 a
h, as

hy da
d ab
, ca lly avidi
h l hs, hich missd

hi ma
, has ly by a ich, as
h  , s
i s ddly,
la
imbly   sid, ad l

h  i s bas


 i  s i

 sh
m
s,
aili a la 
i ba b his ys. I
  his  i s chas h cam aais

h d bai 
h
aa i
h a cash
ha
sh

h b ildi. H as ly hal a 

bhid
h li
h m    his mis, h ass d his sa
y by
va l
i v
h bai. A mm

 la
,  a a l i
his a
h, ad  h ma  c ld hav savd him.
A
 a sis  im
 s chas,
h is
s

h 
h
b ll bi xha s
d, h as l
a
i  a sh

im i
h

vca
i, 
il
h a
s admi

d
h sh lacm, h d

hi sy blidldd hac
s i

h i i
h
h sha als 

hi aml Mish s
i s. Wi
h a ild s
, a sh  am
alli m his m
h,
h b ll  shd a

h as
hs; b

h
dx
 s hsma, civi
h cha bli ly i
h
h i

his lac, al
h h ll-ih dism 
d by
h shc
, ca sd
h
a
bas

 a asid i
h
h s dd sma
. A sh
 "Bav,
Picad!" as m
h cd; b
 i
casd,
h bald b
,
dic
i i
s a

ac
aais
a
h 
, had b id i
s hs 

 i
s had i
h ibs 
h as
hs, hich, blidd as i

as, s
d
h a m b


h s
. Th id's lac a

h
sam mm
as l d i

h c

h b ll, ad bld ld i


s.
A ic lih
 lad i
h ys 
h l,  ma ad 
maid, as i
h ms
ci s is
ic
s had b aa
d i
hm.
Na m I sa, i
hi iva
 balcy, a s
a
ly dam al i
h
h ba
i l da h
, b
h azi i
h
h ds
i
s

h
bldy c
s
. Sm y  ladis,
h da h
s  ha h
y ads,
 ac
ally lis
i i s ch a lac

h hiss  lv m
alla
y  bls, hil
hy clid l x i sly am c shis
ad ls. M  v ba
i i
h i ds
h 
lc
ji
s 

h dyi hss, ls

hy sh ld ail 
h b ll as s
. Rid
ad mald as
hy ,
hy  cmlld
 s
ad 
hi ls
 a
h sla h
. I ca v 
  hs hich I sa



i acss
h i
 m
ach cha i
h his 
ails dai
i
h d s
. A
h 
chd aimal, m hs ys
h bada had
all, l
d a d 
h vas
assmbla i
h a aali lac;
b

h as  mcy i ay ha

ha
ba

h.
Aai a
 m
s dd, ad sval y  m aad i ay a

i
 lac, sil
, ad mbidy, i
h
h vlv
b
 Sai 
hi

cis shavd hads. Th aili
y 
hi s l limbs smd
  al

ha

h a
l;
hi ms  ac l as
ha
 All, ad

hy  alss as y  lis. Ths,
h _badills_, b
i i
h had l i as,
 ad babd,
 ach  hich as
a

achd a b  cl d ibbs.
Th  l bas
--
h h a s
ill b d i his l id ys, ad
am ll m his dila
d s
ils ad ivi la
-- shd
sis  la , ad a m c
ai
h h s
ill
ha
i 
.
O 
h _badills_ advacd bldly i 

h b ll, i
da s ximi
y
 his sha, bldy hs. H avd his ams, ad
badishd his ibbd da
s as i h  disivly
a 
i
h
abid bas
. I
smd da s
 s m
h s m ch, 
h b ll,
xci
d
 madss, s ddly  shd  him; b
cl ad a
ch l,
h
ma lih
ly s
d asid as i disdaii
 mv  s l  s
ich. As
h aimal assd him i his  i s ca,
h da
s i
h

hi ibbs  b id i
h
h sd  lih
i i his y c
.
Wi
h a ild bll  a ad ai
h  i s b
 ma
s a
a
h
 i his a
h, b
dis
ac
d by
h  mb  his sc
s
daci li
 dms a d him, ad xha s
d by
h lss  bld, h
si
s ai
i

h a
h,
h h s
ill

h las
dia
, ams


h ylls 
h xci
d cd.
I a  mi
s a ma i
h a bih
, a
d sd, calld
h _sada_,

d
h aa, ad dmadd missi m
h _a
idad_

ill

h b ll. This as accdd amid
h icasi b zz ad s
lssss

h cd. Cayi i his l
had a da
d la,
 ac
as a
bai

h s
ill ssi
iv y 
h _
_, ad i his ih
a d
Tlda blad,
h _sada_ ca
i sly advacd
ads
h c chi
bas
, m da s , has,
ha i
h  ll vi   his
s

h. Th ma aad
 b
h icaa
i  addss as sd

 b
-c; im  v, sha  sih
, da 
d i c a.
Aachi
 i
hi ih
ichs  his lai , h s
d ac

 ac i
h him, ad  m
al s
 l. Wavi
h d la


h l
,
 l  aay
h hs m
h 
 his chs
, h slly
aisd his l sd 

h lvl  his y, ad
h d bac

his am i
h as li

l m
i as ssibl,
 ma


h a
al l 
a

ha
a i
i
h c
h
h sial cd may bs
b
svd,
ha
immdia
 da
h may s . As
h bl as dlivd,

h bas
, svi asid, dashd a

h d la avi i his ac,
his l hs alms
azi
h ma's l
bas
, hil
h s
l
as l d

h hil
i
 his bdy. Th bl had 
b aily
s
 c
, ad
h mad b
 da
d aay, cayi i
h him
h _sada's_
sd,
h bld s
i i j
s a
vy s
id. A sh

xca
i cdd m all
h balcis a

his l c
y bl, hich
sh ld hav laid
h b ll m
ilss. Th b ll-ih
, mahil,
d
mid
 
iv his 
a
i, maid calm as a
is
.
Cyi i
h a l d vic
 sm  c
iay  _l cach
_, h
civd a small, sha da, hich h scd slly ad ca lly
 d i
hi
h hll  his ih
had. Aai c m
h da

d la i his l
, h calmly aai
d
h sla h

h b ll. Th
a
b
, s
ill midabl, mad s
aih


h middl 
h i,
h his 
s
d, ad h his y ca h
aai
h ha
d d
la hich
h _sada_ as avi i his ac, h  lld  sh
,
i
h cc
a
d a ad  y.
As
h

h s s
d ac
 ac,--
h dsa
 bas
ad
h sil
ma i
h his bd
i,--  midd  Gla c s  Pmii 
i

h li i
h his _s
yl s_, hil
h cd 
h amhi
ha


his
d  his bld. Th b ll-ih


his y ixd 
ha



h b ll, hich had i

b  a sl scilla
i 
h had--as
his ys smd
 ll, ascia
d,
h 
l avi 
h
la-- ld hav aad m
ilss. Th ma c

 i
hi a ich

h l h-i
s, ca
i sly ad slly x
di his ih
am
i
h
h da v
h aimal's c
, ad s

chi his bdy ad

ill
h l
h alms

 chd his chs
. Th y 
h b ll as
s
ill dis
ac
d by
h d la hich as icssa
ly avd b
him, amids

h ms
 d silc. S ddly, li
 a lash  lih
,

h
i as b h
d,
h xac
i
as hi
, ad
h d s
b
 lld v, l
i i a da


 . Shs 
ls 
h 
h vic
's had by ai hads abv, h
h s

s
iid
ha
i
hi ys
h bav ma had 
ivd his a l
. Th
a dy m ls c m dashd i, ad i a mm
alld bac
aai,
dai
h a
cacass bhid
hm.
H imssiv a
h c
as
s  a
! A

h mm
h
his
sc  bld as b h

 a d, a la
sad calmly acss
h
bl  cicl 
h i
havs abv, hil a
 m a ai y 
m
h h shd h -b ia

 sl.
FOOTNOTES:
[16] Picads.
[17] Plic 
h i, h sv m c s
m
hi mdival
cs
m, ad a a m m.
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER X.
TOLEDO.--IEW OF THE CITY.--THE CATHEDRAL.--PROCESS OF
SMOKE-DRYING.--ALMANZA.--ALENCIA.--THE FONDA DE MADRID.--A
BENEOLENT DOCTOR.--SPANISH MULETEERS.--HOW CONTROERSIES ARE
SETTLED.
Oh! Tld, imial ci
y, blvd 
h ld G
h, ich hm 
h
M ad J,[18] ad chs
h 
h Em 
h Ws
,[19] h
a

h all! Ad y

hy ds
iy has ly b
ha
hich aai
s
all ci
is, all a
is. S
ill
h ld
 has a  d ad l
y
asc
 i
s c
-b il
sa
, ad
h h
h sld s  hich
i
as c clba
d a  m ldi, i
s
ill l
s d i
h
ha h
y lac 
h bl
idm ba
h, ad i
s isl
md
cai
al i
h mids
. A vl m mih
ll b dv
d

h dsci
i
 Tld, hich is s
ill maiic
v i  is, ad ixha s
ibl
i bjc
s  i
s
; b
as  ma
 xl sm 
h is
ad ci
is 
h am S
h, ad v
 x
d   j y

h
Saish islads 
h Mdi
aa,  may 
id l i m
ha
a assi lac a

h c mbli alls,
h alli alacs, ad
h
Oi
al c 
s 
h ld m
lis  Sai.
A vi 
h ci
y m ay adva
a s si
i i i
s ihb hd
is vy imsi. Th vabl h   a
i i
y is 
h hl

lac; ad
h is 
a s

i hich
h a 
b ildis
ha

hav b cc
d i
h im
a
v
s i
h his
y  Sai.
As s m a dis
ac, i
s smb
s isi m
h
lss
a[20] hav a s
i
i smblac
 a a


d c, s ch
as mih
hav b  by sm ld babaia ia
, hil
h 
ilds
h h hich
h Ta s  s s i
s c s aa li
 a 
vlv
c shi  hich
h yal diadm ss. As  aachd
a  c ld j d m acc a
ly 
h hih

h majs
ic
c
 hich
h
, li
 a a
cas
l, is b il
. Th s

s a
ally s
 ad idi. Ths  Mish ii a vy a,
ad i
is diic l

 id 's ay
h h
hm. Thi ass
has
his adva
a,
ha
i
ads a 
c
i shad m
h
ssiv ha

h day s . Sm 
h ch chs a sldid
scims  G
hic achi
c
,
h h, m bi
lss,
hy
a ccasially havy i asc
. Th a may i xamls 
h
Mdival ad Saacic s
yls,
h ac l, aiy-li
 chaac
 
h
la

 havi sm
hi c lialy a

ac
iv i i
. B

h i
s

 all  s a

achs ly

h as
;
h li 
h ci
y has
da
d l a; ad  al

h h i
s sil
s

s as i a dam.
Th ca
hdal-- 
h ichs
i
h ld--is  vy aci

ii; i
s  da
i bli
 a id a bac
i
h his
y 
Sai. May a
h chas hich i
has d i
h vl
is

h Pis la. Wh
h Ms c d
h ci
y i
as
d i

a ms ; h i 1085 Alhz . cvd Tld, i
maid,
accdi

h
i's mis, s
ill dv
d

h lii s svic

h Mslm, 
il
h Achbish  Tld i
h lli ya
s mmaily ds
yd all
h isiia  Saacic shi i
hi i
,
ad i
bcam aai a
ml 
h Ca
hlic ai
h. A c
y assd,
ad S
. Fdiad lvlld
h diic, hich h l
as
ai
d i
h
a cla sii
,

h  d. A  b ildi as
h ccivd 
a maiic
la; ad a

 h dd yas' icssa
lab 
h
s
sldid diic as cml
d.
Th al c
 i
s x
i,
h h mad by
h cls
ximi
y  s  di b ildis, is xcdily s
i
i. Li

a maiic
jl shi i
s a
l s
 a
vy
  i
s
c

i,
h is  i
 vi m hich i
ca
b s

adva
a. Th c la is a 
 a

as
, ad
h  


h M zaabic chal is ma
ably la
. Th s
a
ly 
als, 
hy

h a
 hich
hy iv admissi, a 
h ms
laba

G
hic, ad
h ad _aad_, ich i
h am
, is a 

ixha s
ibl d
ail ad d l iish. Th  

h aa

is  lss admiabl. Th
h s
is 
h _aad_ may b said

b dsly ld i
h maiic
s
a
s, ad
h sli
ay bly

, m hich ascds a la
si, isi

h hih

330 
abv
h lmy ad sil
ld s

s bl, is cd by
a vas

iaa cicli i
h i
s i ays
h a
css s m 
i

h hl.
Th i
i 
h ca
hdal is i vy ay 
hy 
h bl
asc

h x
i. I v
h idl s
a is s
 c
i
h
s
im
s  va
i h h s vys i
s bl 
is--i
s
l
y va l
d  ad i
s l aisls--ha
m s
b
h li 
h
shi h cms isid by ai
h
 ay i s ch a
ml?
Th cl d ids a 
s  hih a
, i c
hamy i
h

h sii
ad dsi 
his bl ca
hdal. Whil   xamii

hm,
h a s ddly ald 
i
s slm
s, ad 
 

hich ms

 admi--
h
h d-li
 ll hich a
 mm
illd


h b ildi, 
h silvy s
ss 
h 
s by hich i
as

lld. _Sic
asi
lia m di_; ad
 ly, i s ch a lac as
ld Tld,  i
h ld s lchs 
h as
, i Rm  Thbs,

h ha

h assi ilim ls
h ih
 as havy 
i
. Li sms
 mv i
h a sl ac, ad
h lc
iv mid is
caid bac


h dim as  m
s
his
y.
I li
 ld ci
is; 
h is  aama  s ch ad  as
ha

s s
d by
h sih

hi  is, h
h mid ca call  as i
a sis  s
a
ly ic
s
hs a
v
s hich hav l

hi
s
am  all as. Ad  c 
y has a his
y ich
ha
ha

Sai i ad ad s
ii icid
s,  a m aml s
 
hs
va
d mmials hich
ll
h Saiads 
h s
day ha


hi acs
s .
H dlici s i
as, a
ih
,
 li a

h  casm

h
ai
ld Tlda _da_, ad l
d 
h i
s

s 
h
aci
ci
y, a
chi
h  asss i
hm, hil
h m shd
i
s silvy ays 
h da
ld b ildis, ad v
h a lais
byd. I
as a ba
i l a
m vi, ad
h cam
 s, b
al 
h s
ai, a s
ai  dis
a
m sic, ild, s
a, ad
mlachly, li

h ailis  sm 

 di. I
as a i

 im a

h
ils 
h day, ad i
h
h s
ai i   as
 

 bd ad sl
.
*

N  alcia ad
h bl  Mdi
aa, 306 mils dis
a
. W

s
a
a h  b s s
   six
 h s' j y. Th his
l
scams,
h
ai bis
 mv, vybdy lih
s cia

s. Th
ids a all ca lly  lld , ad aay  lid, di h
l  ld b
h css  dyi, sm
i, ad c i
h h ma
am i

h cdi
i  a svd Fia haddc
 bla
. S ch
a a
msh as
ha
i hich   cmlld
 ba
h six

h s, 
h h
,  h

 d i
.
Immdia
ly a
  l
Madid,   ld ids,
hs da, la
,
i
s
i sady lais i
h a  sli
ay liv-
s h ad

h, aai aad. By
h ay, as  livs,  may h


a ai 
avlls i
his c 
y. Th a  hal-ad-hal
mas s i
h Saish livs. Thy a chami,  d b
,

hs h
a habi
al a
s 
hm; b

 s ch as a 
,  ca ly say,
"Gd hl
hm!"
W a

m
d, si
 
h sm
,
 jy a  h s' sl d i

h ih
, ad  ly aa
d m a d sl mb  aivi i

h aly mi a
Almaza, a misabl lac i
h a Fch _b 
_,
a Mish cas
l, a his
ic 
a
i, ad,
ha
dss, sm
sh ai. W 

ad al
d 
h la
m, s
ill a
h hazy
m  
 bld sl mbs, ad  d  slvs i
h mids
 a cd
 cc
ic-l
i _ s
ics_ dssd i bchs, jac

s, ca
s,
as, ad vlv
ha
s. W aachd a maiic
Fch 
lma a


h b 
, ad civd a c   Saish chcla
. By ay  civili
y
 as
d him, "Wha
as
h dic b

h _Chcla
Mi_
ad
h chcla

hy av s h?" W civd
his as, "N
ha
v, msi , xc
i
ha
 s is m ch da."
Lavi
his vy cmmda
y 
lma, 
d
 s
dy
h
bjc
s  lcal i
s
. H, 
h h
, as ll as vyh
ls i Sai,
h m s
b sm i
s
i a
i i
y, sm
hi


mid s 
h a
m ad mih
y dds 
h as
; ad bi 
a i ii mid  s discvd
ha
i
as a Almaza
ha

h
amy  Phili ., cmmadd by Bic
, aid a vic
y v
h

s 
h Achd
  A s
ia i 1707.
W had mad csidabl ss, ad   ab
sv
y mils
m   j y's d,
Wi
h
h mi  s s sh ad ai,
Whil a bz sis s

h h
h ambi
ai,
Pl d
 id i

h,-I a lac s h
as Almaza.
Ab


y mils byd
ha
lac, as ll as  c ld j d i
  aid c s,
h v
a
i ba
 imv, ad
h livs
aad
 hav a sh h , a m vi s 
h. Th c 
y,

, bcam m ic
s , divsiid as i
as ccasially by
c
y hills. W assd, als, ha
aad
 b ds
d villas.
F a
im, hv,
his a

h c 
y c ld 
b s

a
adva
a, as  had  
ly
 ass
h h da

ls ad
d c

is. H ad
h as a a

m
a
a viyad 
, i
hich
h s

d sh bs smd
  i
h a
diic l
y am
h
s
s ad sad. O villa hich  ma
d, i
chd  a m 
ai
sl, smd
 b
h vy lac  a bad  badi
s. Th as 
sava hihlads  bac
d i
h dis
ac by  l lis  m

scy, cilld, as i
smd, al
h s
y. Th a
dss 
h
hills as ccald by
h i
s i
h hich
hi sls 
cvd.
Th x
lac  achd as
h ld b,
mbl-d
 
M
, bas
i i a s li
vally, h  Idia c ad
h
ic
ly a. L, hi
ashd,
acd _c
ijs_,  am-h ss,
a sca

d 
h c
y sls, hil hih v
h val
l
sm b

s 
h aci
M. Oads  
, acss
avis, dy a
c ss, ad l, s
aih
, hi
 ads, bdd
by s
-is,
h liv, ad
h m lby. C 
y l  a
Aab-l
i asc
, b, d-sashd, ad smi- d,  ji
al i
h s  ad d s
 s
dy, aily-dssd m ls. Bld a
s,

d i
h  id cas
ls,  
ly aad s sdd abv s as
 mvd ads a
a aid a
. Th ab da
v
a
i add
vidc
ha
   i
h mids
 a m l x ia
sil; hil
m acss
h id ad-li
 lais, dis
i ishd by
ha
l
da
li  sahi i
h dis
ac,
h ba
h 
h Mdi
aa
a
l
h ll s
hily 
h b.
As  d
ads   j y's d  assd sval m
s, b

s aidly
ha

hy smd li

h ha
ms  a dam. W c ld
dscy, hv,
hi ich ch chs ad sii _camaais_ s
li
ams
d  bs. A
 i
   ss  bsvd
a l Mish all, i
h i
s aci
ba

lm
s, scali i yll
zi-zas
h s
 m 
ai's sid,
ill i
jid a 
ss 
h
s mmi
. Whi

mbs, shadd by m  l cyss, sm
ims midd s
 Eas
 lads. I all dic
is
h s
a
ly alm-
 avs al

i
s ac l l ma, ad
h a is

s
h y, hil lly
cv
s a s chd li
 als' yis hih  c
y s mmi
s,
l
i d  a aadis  billia
, ad  i
s  ld,
sad i
h 
il val bl. Th li lais, ad
h avi
lis 
h lih
y hills, a all li
 by sa
li villas,
silv s
aml
s, ad
h ays 
h li s s . Oads  sd

h h vs 
h a
hi alm, i
h
hi a-li
 cl s
s

 yll da
s,
h h bs  d  lia, ad
h h

c ad ic-ilds. W dash aidly
h h hih alld Mish

s, i
h
h alm-
s isi i
hi am s

s, i hich
a si m
hi
il Bd i-li
 i s; ad v a
chs
 s
y as
 lad, s i
h a
als ad
h Idia i. O
 sid a
hic
la
a
is  bamb ad ca, ad 
h 
h
ads  lms, mls, ad sy maa
. I ac
,
h aach

 alcia,
h S l
aa  Saish ci
is, is i E , has,
ll-ih ivalld. Th c 
ai iss, as  hav s,  s
y
as
s ad ds
lais, ad alls  all
ha

ical v
a
i
hich is c lia

h ba
 s clima
 ad ich sil  Eas

Sai. This is
h b sis
a

h c 
y; ad bsids
h a,
lm, alm, cac
s, ad maa
,  id ic, lax, c, ,
ad
bacc i i ild l x iac, 
il
h hi
 a
s 
alcia 
 civ s.
O dscdi m
h
ai, a
h ba
i l classic cicl 
h
_Plaza d ls Ts_,  j md i
 a _Ta
aa_[21]--a d l blac

vhicl, hdd v, li

 a dla  hls,  a ca
i hich

hy cay aay
h dad i
im  la --ad   a

ld,
yi
vy had
 l
as i  jyd
h c lia ssa
i d cd by

h absc  sis. Th avm
smbld 
hi  a
h, lss
i

h aday  R
S

as i
mih
aa s
 i
h
s
s m a d idical cicl. I
as c
ly slss a

m
i

sm
, 
h cia

 as j s
as li
ly
 

h y 
h a
as
h m
h. Th s  jl
d ad b md 
h h cl l
y s

s,
s a
ha

h ays 
h s , sav   h  
h day, ca
v visi

hi d
hs. H   aai i a
h hly Saish

. Th h ss  ai
d i billia
cl s, i
, bl , ,
ad d, ad
h   m s balcis, m hich blids, ad
ma
s, ad ca
s,  vy h ,  di.
O  jl
d, sii  d sha als, bii ai
ld h ss
 aci
ads i
 s dd vi b s, ad v ad a
cmi  bl ch chs, sc l
d v i
h d s dvics 


h
ms

s,
ha
ld i
h
h cla  blls. Aai 
divd shaly i
 a labyi
h  da
a allys, sami i
h
b sy cds, i
h all
h ds ad as hal 
i

h s

,
ad illi
h dilaida
d balcis--a sc  li ad b s
l
hich 
hi ca ival, sav
h bazaas  Smya  S
amb l. Wi
h
a a l b m  s   d a ch ch c i
h bih
, ay, 
s lih
i
 s as hs saci s masis l
d  ads
 alms,
 m
-ls, als, acacias, ad lads, all a
d
by
h say m mabl  
ais, sii  hih i
h mids
. I
a  mi
s, hv,   d aai i
 a a, ic
s ,
ad di
y _call_, illd i
h is
s i
h shvl-ha
s, M ill-li

chis, all as ad is, a dy m ls, ad m dssd i bchs,
sash, ad bad vlv
_smbs_, i
h l cl d _ma
as_
h
ac lly acss
hi sh lds; hil, hih abv,
h si

avs 
h da
d h ss aly m
, xhibi
i b

hm
ly a l bad  d bl  s
y.
Ra

li ,  b s
c m i
 a id, b sy ma

-lac, i
h

-hall,
, ad ch ch, all laba
ly sc l
d, ad i
h
l, da
acads b i ba
h
h h ss. Th  sac as ay
i
h
h cl d ais  mcha
s' s
alls, ad aliv i
h b ys
ad slls. Th h m  may vics ad
h cis  a
-cais
 had all a d s. I a d,
h ma

-sc m Masaill
as b s. H  ils  maiic
 i
ad v
abls m

h 
il _camaa_ a d
h ci
y;
h vas
has  as

ad mls, i
h a
b chs  yll da
s ad  l as,
 had 
h  d. Fish m
h a Mdi
aa 
xsd  sal, ad ass
m
s  la a
h vass, mad i
h
ihb hd,  s
ill hadi i
h s . W sa  all sids
 s  s
a
ly l-yd m, laci 
m ba
h
h shad

h ma
illa, i
h classic a
s ad l x ia
bl -blac
hai;

hs, bd i dsss  a
as
ic dy, ssi a
d b ia
s


h bas
as
hy
al
d ad sld a

hi s
alls. Whl caavas,
da by la m ls dssd i
ais, ad
i
li i
h blls,
s
al
d as
s; ad s
 x, y
d

h by
h had, dai
havily-lad ca
s by
h sh c 
hi c
s ad hs al,
mad
hi ay slly v
h lac, hil sm smi-ild ds
sa
chd a

hi hls as
hy  dis
bd d i
hi bas
i

h s . Th as
h
im, ih
_
_[22] i
h shavd li ad
sh
cis his
s, dssd i his vy-day s i
 baidd jac

,
d sash,
ih

 s, i
ail, ad vlv
ha
, hil
h sii
ms 
h m 
ai i his a
-s
i, ad 
h s
ala
asa
,
i
h his cl d _ma
a_ si m his sh ld, ad his 
i
sadals, assd
h h
h mids
. Th vlas
i _ciaill_ as
sm
i m
hi lis, ad
h a dy
chi h  d 
hi
c
s m ba
h
h blac
vlv
b
.
Ba
i l  
ais ac
h s

s, ad s  acacias av li

a
hs i
h bz. N
hi, i ac
, ca b ccivd m
ic
s 
ha
h a s

s, i
h ch ch ad alac, i
h
cl d h ss, i
h balcis ad ba-li
 ais; 
hi m
calm
ha
h clima
, 
hi m billia

ha
h v-chai
scs i
h _lazas_, 
hi m i
s
i
ha
h m
ly
cia

-sm
i cds, s di
m
h diy mb  a Ld
s

; ially, 
hi m Saish
ha
h 
i ic
.
W ladd a

h _Fda d Madid_, h  i
dd

a
   
a
s; b
b ascdi
h saci s mabl s
ais   d
i
cssay
 ma
 ay  a
  blid bas h  bi
cd c
d d s
 by s
 by
hi ids. Ths  ca
s
 s i m
h lcal disas  h
halmia, ad
h ca s

hi assmbla 
h s
ccasi as,
ha
c a 
a
d dc
 hlds a lv i
h h
l 
h a
i
 s
a
m


hi malady, _aa caidad y aa l am d Dis_. S ch disi
s
d
bvlc, hich is by  mas cmm am mdical m i all
c 
is, is vy ais
hy; b
a

h sam
im  a b d

css
ha

h sih
s hich a sm
ims b h
d   ys 
s ch ccasis a a m aabl
 cas al
 is
s.
Th
ai by hich  had aivd as--csidi
ha
i
as  

h _csas d Esaa_--a
ally la
. W had b al

h ih

h s 
h j y m Madid. Hv, b ba
i   as
,
i ac
immdia
ly    aival a

h _da_ a
alcia, 
a
ally as
d 
h sa. "Th mils  a

h 
 El
Ga,"[23] as
h as. H, _ac i,

d s i
, a
a
aa_,
l
sha! ad   immdia
ly  shi
h h
h s

s, ad


h ci
y i

h l yll ads, i
h
h sad ad d s



h axl 
h
-hld dla, i s
   ba
h. W
assd v a sldid bid, sai
h a
lss iv T ia 
G adalavia, ad cmmadi a sldid vi  alcia, i
h all i
s
cl d sis ad dms s
i aais

h s
lss s
y. W 
div
h h a l av   acacias ad alms 
il, as  
i d  as
,   a
ally b h
 by
h sa. "A ba
, a
ba
,"--_ba
l_, _ba
l!_  xclaimd; ad i as
   s mms,
ab


y alms
a
d ishm i
h d as  d
hi lis

immdia
ly  lld
 sh, li

 a sam  mis a

ac
d by a
ic  bad; b
al
h h  a
d a _ba
l_,  had  dsi

 ih
. Hv, i a  mi
s   s
id ad simmi
aay mily 
h b ya
av, s d, cla, ad bl ; ihali
hal
h, s

h, ad dlih
a
vy s

. Th  d 
lis 

h l
y m 
ais 
h Saish cas
 ad ally adi m
sih
i
h mi haz, hil, aa , as  lay m
ilss 
  bac
s la
i 
h calm s ac 
h sa,
h y ca h

h
dis
a
lam 
h l sail  may a l cca, s
ly i
i
h
lc
i 
h mi's l.
Ah!
hs calss days, sa
chd m
h si s
il   
xis
c,
hy cm 
aai. Ths s y hlidays hich  jyd
i
h sci
y  idshi, h hay,
h h ,
hy , ad
h dlih
 l i
is
 call
hm
 mmy! Thy cm b
aly,
ad a
dis
a
i
vals, b

ha
as
hy a ly
h m
dlih
 l. Thy ass ic
ly, b

hi mmy is as  as v,
ad i calli
 mid   vai s adis,  l alms
as
dlih
d as  ac
ally did h   
s
s ad a
dm i
a s
a lad ad d a i s
y. Wll may
h dsdi 

si:-"C 
'
h jys
hy li ha
h s,
C 
'
h days m a ish ,
Ad
 ha
v
h has
b,
'Tis sm
hi b

--

 b."
Bac
aai
h 
d,
h h
h acacias,
h alms,
h la
ad
h d s
, ad v
h ld bid i
h i
s s
a
s, sai
h
a
lss iv. W assd
h im ld 
ss-a
s  
h days,
ad alls
d i
h m ldi ba

lm
s, s
adi  b

h i

h c
y
 viy
h m s

h 
h Mish
c . W aai 

h h
h  md ads ad id hi

_lazas_, all li i
h s ;
h dim labyi
hi s

s c
m civd s; ad, s
mbli 
m
h blac
la -ca
, 
 s i
hi
h ba-ha 
d _da_. H  disc ssd a
mal, csis
i  m s as, li
 
ils simmi i il,
ad  d chcla
, s
d i
h ma's mil
ad ciam. B
as

h vb says, "
h ja  ma b h
all vil i

h ld,"
 s s,
h, i
is m

ha
i
sh ld s  ccasial

ib
i; ad s   h i
_ill_ s  i
am sm 
hs
_csas d Esaa_ hich hav  smblac

hs  ay 
h
c 
y.
T
 
i

h s

s  a i
--
h m i
h
b

--is a a
dlih
;
  
h al ad s h a
 ill
lad s, ad
 ad ad mdi
a
, dis
bd by cac
li  id,
h, i
h
h sii
 laiaism hich is chaac
is
ic  his ac,
ai
s 
il  hav imd him  sm his
ic ac
, ad
h
lls
i
bac
aai i hal-a-h  as his  ima
i. Fll s
h,

l ad, ad ba i
h
h cc
ic "d    i," ad
i y  amiabili
y, av  s by mmbi
ha

ha
hich may sm
disd
 sm is i
h 
hs a la 
hi a
 hich
hy m s

by. S  ay
"Wh'
h a

ha
ad's

his
Slih
i

 i
s m
hd, s as
Rjc
i
; b
i
 i
 ay
h
I
may m
i
h
hi ha
b

a
b
,


l
;

h ."[24]

O
aai i

h h
, bih
s as, ad
h i

h ld G
hic
ca
hdal, h   d  slvs i cmaa
iv da
ss, i
h
jym
 a vy aabl clss. This aci
cclsias
ical
s
 c
 is b il

h mais  a Mish ms  hich had i
sl
ais m
h  is  Rma
mls. H aabl as
h c
as

b

h h
, aish day i
h
, ad
h dim, lii s lih


h ld ch ch, i
h i
s mys
i s ics-lad a
msh, mmd
i
h a h dd
i
li lih
s, ad
avsd by billia
ays m

h cl d ids, ays hich ll i vai s h s 
h mabl
s
a
s s
adi hs
-li
 aais

h vabl alls, ad lih
i

h l
y sas  baz sci 
il
hy smd li
 iy
as sh
 m
h ld ba
h by sm mas d b. S ch
as
h sii

h lac,
ha
I l
as i I c ld hav jid
i
h dv
i 
h sh dd i s h 
li sil
ad
s
ill 
h mabl avm
, hil vy
h h
smd
 is
havad i
h
h bl s
ais 
h a. W md aai i


h ha
ad blaz 
h cdd s

s,
h h hich
s 
d s
y sldiy 
hadi
hi ay, ad i hich
h bla 
ma
ial m sic as mild i
h
h clash 
h ch ch's blls. W
 d   ay i
 a s
a
ly ma

-lac, i
h mids

h b s
l
 hich  

ald i a cssi 
h ii. As i
as
i
 a chaac
is
ic sc, 
h h
i

h l
i a
, v

h h
h dlay cs
s a  mm
s. A li

l by i scal
das
ad mbidd shi
ld
h ay, ma
i a hid s is  a d m.
H as lld by   sdy-l
i 
lm i
h vaca
acs, ad
i
h
ha
s, dssd i sc
abl vy-day s i
s  blac
, bai
l, lih
d cadls. Nx
, ma
i a
al s
ids, ad
ic
d 

i m sli ad
iil,--li
 "My Lady" 
h ss 
h is

May,--cam
 
a
 li

l ils  ab

lv yas  a,
cayi
ays  s-lavs. Ths  child, m
his 
d
xcis, smd vy  y ad d i
h ac. Th cam
h _ic
d sis
ac_ 
h 

aim
. F  ad asa
s i a
's
s
i ad sadals b al 
hi sh lds a ala i,  a
h
a ic  a ld d d, hich s 
d a a
ax dll, hs
ch
s  
h ds
vmili, i
h a
i ha
 c  i
s
had, ad a ic  diay Machs
 cl d c


chi
id
by a s
i  d i
s ais
. Th cssi as clsd by sval
m bai las, ad by a bad  m sic,
h mmbs  hich, i

h im  ld sldis, d cd i
h
hi is
 m
s m sic
s iial i i
s chaac

ha
I am abl
 iv
h ad ay
cc
i  i
. Th bad, as s al vyh ls, as s  dd
ad lld by a la cd  idls,  cha

i ld m,
da
-yd maids, ad ylli chis, h, 
i
hs
adi
hi
acia
i 
h s
ais hich
hy had, ls
 
i
y 
mi vai s ac
ical j
s 
h  blic ally. K
s 
m, i
h s
is b 


h da
s
b h , ad clad i s
id
ma
ls, vlv
smbs, ad sashs, i
h
hi ls badad, ad

hi 
i as
lic-l
i sadals,  sa 
i i
h s

,
lld by sm s
ay ds ad a ls m l 
. Ay
hi li

h
is
hy all mad as
hy
hadd
hi assa
h h
h cd,
ca
b ccivd. Thi icssa
cha

i smha
smbld
ha

had i
h a
-h s    Zlical Gads.
I
h vic  alcia, i  may bliv
hi s
a
is
ical
a
hi
is,
h is a ava  six h dd m ds  a m. Ad

h j dicial mid 
h alcias is vy amabl
 li
y
ads

h acc sd, d
h s
i il c  Saish my  al i
am 

 ab

h  ds s
li. Th val   h ma li ds 

aa
 b s
ima
d vy hihly by
h masss, ad i
is  
ly
saciicd  vy slih
ccasis. A  ds a
a
av, a li

l

ha
i a m
,  a slih
dic  ii, ill ally

d i  
h dis
a
s idi six ichs  cld s
l 
i
his vi
als i sm s sc
i mm
. A sha
i is  d
 b
a vy dcisiv m
hd  s

li all c
vsis, ha
v may b

hi a
. Ths
ivs, hich a sld i
h shs avdly 

h  s  hich
hy a sd, a vy midabl is
 m
s,
i
h blads m
h ichs
 a 
ad a hal i l
h, ad i
h

his isci
i avd
h, "Si sla aa dd l ."
Hv, a
    Tdm
 hs, ad y  
lm h ass

hi
im i  s i
 scic by dissc
i li

l child i ds
ad cayi ab

hi ys i
hi c

s,  ca
ll blam

h Saiads  dav i, i
h id lc  s ch li

l scial
ami
is,

  i
h ac i
h 
h civilisd a
is.
FOOTNOTES:
[18] Calld Tld
h by
h J, h shad i
s ichs i
h
h M.
[19] Chals .
[20] Th a,  a ds
, as c a c
s
 alms ad
m lby
s.
[21] Divd ssibly m
h R ssia "Taa
ass,"  silss
caia.
[22] B ll-ih
.
[23] El Ga. Gad, ads,--s
s

h sa.
[24] B ya.
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER XI.

OYAGE TO THE BALEARES.--MAJORCA.--PALMA DE MALLORCA.--OUR

APPREHENSION.--FONDA DE LAS TRES PALOMAS.--HISTORICAL
NOTICES.--DON JAYME.--THE RAMBLA.--COSTUME.--LANGUAGE.--CLIMATE.
--CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE.
Alls dc,  
 
h Balaic Isls, 
h Balas,
h
bi
h-lac 
h a
Haibal, ad  Palma,
h cai
al, si
a
d
i
h s
h-s
 
i 
h islad  Majca.
"Mia caam s," says
h La
i 
.
"Majca caam s," say .
"Ibia, Majca, ad Mica a islads bli
 Sai, lyi


h as

ha
c 
y, i
h Mdi
aa. Fm
hm
h aci

Rmas lis
d i

hi amis
h am s Balaic slis, h
 cmlld
 s
i

hi mals m
h s 
hi h ss
b
hy  alld
 a

hm." This is ha
vy las
by 
 a
schl, ad a
 h lavs i
--h
h  il is s sd


 hav iishd his d ca
i, a
hi a
c vy asy ad vy
diic l

 accmlish,--
h islads a v m
id  dam

aai d i li.
Bhld s,
h, s
a
i 
his _
a ici
a_  Majca,[25]

ha
m
 ad 
a
 i
 hich M. M ay has v
add, ad  hich Badsha has v s . I ac
, b saili
 alms
ba
 d b

h i
y  v
i
 a lac s a
byd
h b ds  civilisa
i as
 b ba
h
h 
ic 
hs

lm. Al
h h   as scacly 
s a as
 imai
ha


hs islads  am
hs lcali
is,  hich  had ad s m ch
i   y
h, ihabi
d by daci savas i
h l ms  a
hs i

hi hads, s
c
all v i
h scali
ivs ad
maha
s, ad
h  h ma bld
 ay 
h bva, s
ill  did 



 ha
icvics,
 ha
had-shis,  mih
b xsd i a
lac
 hich  had v had
h slih
s
all si mad by ay
, bably bca s 
hi d c ld b said  i
. Hv, 
 i  i
, _P
d'accmli_, as
h Eals  Shsb y say,
ad s    
h Balaic cai
al; ad  i
d
 sa

ms
ima
ially  Palma, 


i
h a
,
h h hac
yd

a
i, _Palmam i m i
a
_.
Th ill s
i s s
am-shi _El Ry Jaym II_,[26]  150
s, a vssl

d
lably sa, s
amd i a
 ly Saish ad s
a
ly ma


h hab . Th Mdi
aa as li
 a la
, as idd i

is; ad as
h h s ad,
h s
 s
y bl shd d i  vas

lami ly 
h l  l li 
h alcia m 
ais,
hich s i l
y majs
y al
h 
ii cas

h Saish
is la,  dimly ad idis
ic
ly s. Th day ll s
ly, as all

ha
is ms
ba
i l m s
all.
"S
day, s
Th bidal 
Th d shall
F
h

s
, s calm, s bih
,

h a
h ad s
y,

hy all
-ih

m s
di."

Ad s
h lad vaishd m vi, ad   al 
h dc

  
hs calm ad ba
i l ih
s hich a
ally diss

h mid
 mdi
a
i. Th s
as, sa
li li
 ms  silv 

h b  ih
,  lc
d i
h
asa
a
s 
h
Mdi
aa, h
hy lashd li
 jls i
h da

sss  a
Eas
 maid. Lis  hshic lih
ma
d   c s as
h 

h shi c

h h
h sahi sa, ad  lc
d, as i

, i
h d
hs 
h havly ca abv by
h bad al z

h mil
y ay, hich lamd i
h iccivabl l s
.
This is all vy i h
h a
h is ai ad
h sa calm; b
i

is vy diic l

 b ma
ic h s i m sa-sic
ss, ad

h as 
i h ai lly sy  mih
bcm 
h

h dd mils  sa, hich  had

avs b  c ld ach
  ds
ia
i,  assd. A

h 
s

his li

l vya, 
c ld ll imai "
h xmlay y
h" i
h s
y b
s as
i all
s
s  aia
 s
is,
h s:-"Ad s, si,
his is
h Mdi
aa?"
h y  A
h  mih
b
s sd
 say
 his ad

.
"Ys, my by,"
ha
lad ma mih
ly, i
h
as i his ys a


h
h h

ha
all his ca ad slici
d  his  il sh ld a

las
b s ll aid by
his is
ac  cci s i
llic,

shi
ha

h sd h had s had b aml  i
. "Ys, my by,

his idd is
ha

idlss ad lvly sa hich has v s
d a
blm

h ma  scic, ad a s bjc

h 
's vs."
B
i ab
  h s a
   da
, i
h
h xmlay
y
h 
h ad

  ld hav b i ay vy a md 
diyi s
i ad is
 c
iv as. A hli al cam ,
ad l, bcmi c
ly  i
h ac, as  by 
m
h s 
abl i a ma
hy had ass md as ma
ably
asy ad ac l, ass i vybdy
ha

hy v l
b

 i

hi livs, ad
h disaad 
ily m
h visi 
hi
ll-
avlls, ad i ms
cass ll-s s. O ld lady,
idd, l
d as i sh  i
 say vy mm
,-"I
hi
, ca
ai, as
h shi is s vy s
ady I  ld a
h 


."
Hv, sm s is ally
 b  d i vy
hi, ad
 a
s h ishs
 s

ch a ai   cavas shs,
ha

hy may
b asi  his 
,
h is  s  md
ha
ha
 al
i
h
dc
i a al  id.
Th s  s  s x
day i a ld  am ad cl dlss ly,
ad, as his ays chasd aay
h las
da
cl ds  ih
i
h s
,
 bsvd isi b s m
h sa,
h h y
a
sm dis
ac,

h  d cas
 Majca. Th h  c ld 
y
dis
i ish
h
ild scy  hich
h islad is ma
abl,--
ha
vaid ladsca
 lai, c
, ad ,-- c ld dis
ic
ly civ
h bl
a  l
y m 
ais i
h c
, ivisibl a

hi bas, b

i
h
hi hi
 a
s ici
h hih havs. S
adily
h shi
clavd i
s ay
h h
h
a il sa, 
il,   di a c
y
hadlad, a dis
a
ci
y,  smha
Eas
 asc
, aad,
h
ms
mi
bjc
bi a
ml  a
dimsis isi i
h
mids
. W c ld als
ac
h hi
 li  i
s s
 ama
s; a

hich   ys s
d i
h las  
acs  shii h ss,
ad 
ai sis, all li

i i
h s , ad lc
d i

h cla mi ba
h i lis  i
d lih
. This as Palma
d Mallca, cai
al 
h Saish vic  Las Islas Balas.
I
s hi
 h ss l
d li
 a bd  hi
 sa-bids si

i 

h a
s, hil aay i
h dis
ac byd, c

i s
ad
cla aais

h s y ai, 
h hih jad m 
ai a ad
hihlads  Majca.
As  ad ally ad
h lad,  sa sm ba
i l villas
s
li amids
 la
a
is, ad villas ci
h hih
s 
vda
sls. O  lidd, as

h  id alls 
h aci

Rma, h, m


, a
chais  ixd
 
c


h m
h 
h hab , ad as
c mbli 
s, b il
by
h
ali
 M. A  m
s 
h cl msy addls, ad
h shi is
b h

 h mis i a 

y hab , i hich
h aad

b csidabl ac
ivi
y,  i
as illd i
h shii  vai s
a
is. Th ci
y s li
 a amhi
ha
 m
h sh, ad
h
hills bhid i
 cl
hd i
h a ab da

h  liv-
s.
W ladd ams
a m
ly cd  smi-Aabic sails, d
y-bys,
ad sldis. F
a
ly  s,  had  ac ai
ac am sval
ac
ia
 
lm ai
i 
hi ids,  hm
hy
cii
a
d
hmslvs i
h
h ms
x
avaa
ma
s  ac
i
as s as
hy ladd,
issi
hm all v
hi s
bbly acs. W
had
 d, as s al,
h css  l a-sachi,
h h 

i
h
h s al s l
,     d
 hav c
avd
h las

h _ad aa_. A diay alcia
i, hich  had b h



a
 hm as a c isi
y, bi  d i  
 
,  
a
 
_c
abadis
as_, ad bi immdia
ly md i
 a cssi,
hadd by a ma bai
h a
al _c s dlic
i_, amids
a ch s
 s ch xclama
is as "_Caamba, vams, vams!_"  lacd
as iss b
 a c l  bld-
his
y l
i _ad as_,
ad ld 

h _ad aa_,  c s
m-h s. H   b h

 b a sv-l
i icial, i
h, as s al, a cia

 i
his m
h, m hich
h sm
 as s
ami 
i cl ds, as ll
as m his s
ils. This 
lma, hs vic as l d, ad his
ma ic
ad j
y, da
d 
sval s
is i Mall i,

h mai  hich  b
imc
ly ds
d. "_Sms Ils_"
s ddly, hv, s
 c
s as bi a billia

hi
 say, ad
 said i
,   id a

h sam
im ma
i
h ash li is
ic
a

m

 add i Saish, "_C a
 hay  aa. Dd s
l cs l
Ils_?"
W ai
d
 s ha
s l
 ld ll
hs xim
s. Th
icial, i
h a sv asc
,--
ass md,  i
as a
al

him,--


 his c

a a

i, ad ba
 a his
ails, a

h accmlishm
 hich
as
h s vyd
hm i
h
sa
isac
i, ad
d
 sm 
h icials, hm h addssd.
Thy cd

h i a

i a c 
h m, all
al
i
a
c i
h
h ms
d l vlci
y a

h
 
hi vics. A
si as
h mad
 s by
h chi
 b sil
. A

h sam
im,
  his mymids 

, ad i hal-a-h  
d i
h a
d m
h Elish Cs l    liba
i. Th sam s als
b h
ima
i m
ha

lma hich smd a
ly
 calm

hi mids, iasm ch as i
ass d
hm
ha
  
, a
 all,
da s csia
s cm m Elad,
ha
h
-bd  vl
i,

 cmmc a is c
i, ad sad i, da
h, ad dsla
i

h h
H Ca
hlic Majs
y's vics. W 
h li
ly
alld
  ab
  b siss--a missi  hich  immdia
ly
availd  slvs.
Th is

hi  did as
 s
a
i sach  a _da_, i
h a
c l  b bys i d cas cayi   bxs. A
 assi
al
h s
-l
i ama
s, ad
h h  
 cla,
ic
s  s

s, i hich  sm ms -li
 b ildis
d
i
 baac
s,  
d a  id ach,
h h hich, as i a
am, as s a ba
i l lims  dis
a
lais ad cl d-cad
m 
ais. W
h  lld  a
a hi
ashd b ildi, hich,  
imd, as a s
ablishm

i
ld _La Fda d las Ts Palmas_,
s amd a
  
h c liai
is  Palma, ad, idd,  ms


s  Oi
al dsc
, viz.,
h is hich a s vyh
hili ab
i
h ai ad al
i i
h s

s, cml
ly
am
ad mls
d.
Th H
l 
h Th Pis, al
h h
lably cla, as
lam
ably dici
i ma

s  cm
. Th bdms  simly
hi
ashd clls. A a bds
ad, i
h a ma

ss s
d i
h
h
lavs  Idia c,  chai, ad a li

l sld i
id,
ab

h 
hih, hldi a dimi
iv basi, cs
i

d
h
 i
. Wh
h Bi
ish maia  abl
i ccasially v


s, a i
 b am a
 as b h
ca lly i a c-
,

ad  d slly, as i i
 ml
 ld, i

h li

l basi;
hil
h ai
 ai
d
 s ha
 sh ld d i
h i
, ad h aly
i
 sal s. Ad ll h mih
;  h smd
 b a
h a
s
a

h css himsl. Th sal ad adi-m 
h

h
l as
h

i
ch; ad
h
h  s
s assis
d a

h c
i 

hi mals, hich, hv, as, has, ab

h bs

hi
hy
c ld d, as,   ccasi,
h _ch_, i his axi s dsi

las, 
ily ls
his sc  mid, ad as ab

 bil
h
dcc
s  had dd  di. Why, a

h _das_  Majca,
 sh ld id
h a
is hich  h

 b sd a
di lacd

h ashi-s
ad 
h  ss  abl
i, ad
h
ls
hich sh ld b 
h ashi-s
ad lacd 
h la
s a

h
di-
abl, ill bably mai a mys
y,  hich i
 ld b vai

 s
 ay xlaa
i.
W s
a livly ih

 i
h H
l 
h Th Pis,
cc yi may ay h s i sha cmba
i
h a vy ac
iv ad
l
lss my,
h mi idi s cvd i
h
h ma
s 

h ay. Ay idivid al  a l
haic
mam
, 
 bld i
h
sl cic la
i,
 hm s ch s
im la
s as
h baci sa ai, cld
ba
hs,  h
ls, &c., a cmmdd,  sh ld simly advis

 ass
 
h ih
s   
hs ma

sss. Th c

is lc
iyi, ad ca ly b cmad
 a s
 i
mi



alvaism; ad as sl is 
ally  d d s ch cdi
is,
 hav  d b

h ma

sss i s
i  ld i Amica b
calld y-s,  sl mb-is. Hv, h
h a
i

has s ici
ly d
h s
im la
i css, h may as

h
alvaic ac
i by simly s lyi himsl i
h a s
 lih
ad a
ic  dam sa. H m s
mai  a  mi
s c
ly s
ill,

il h civs
ha
his limbs a ass mi a da
 h ,--a h 
da
i
h mvi m l
i
ds,--h h sh ld aly
h sa ly


hm, c
i i
h alica
i 
il
h said sa bcms b ad
sc
ly.
Th ci
y  Palma is  csidabl dimsis, ad c
ais a
 la
i  i
y-

h sad ss. Li
 all md
s hich
is v
h  is 
h as
, i
is v ad hilly, a c liai
y
hich adds m ch

h al ic
s ss 
h s

scy.
B il
 a sl hich iss immdia
ly m
h sa, ad s  dd
by
h massiv s
 ama
s  Phili III., i
cc is a s

si
i. Th ma
s  dcay, hv, a  vyh visibl. Th
s

s a sil
, ad
h alls  alac ad 
ss a di
ic-mal i
  i. Palma as b il

h si
  a aci
Rma
ci
y 
h sam am--ad i
s alla
i may hav b s s
d
by
h alm-
s c ab di
h, a   hich s
ill is
ac lly h ad
h m
h
acs ad ads.
Ni h dd yas b
h Chis
ia a,
h Balaic Isls, 
Gymsi,  ld by
h G
s. Thy
h ll i

h 

h Ca
haiias; ad, i d  c s, ba
h
h say  Rm.
I
as Q i
s Ccili s M
ll s h, a h dd yas b
h
Chis
ia a,  dd
h ci
y  Palma; ad h as h d by
h

i
l  _Balaic s_  his c s

h
h islads. Th am

h ali
 ss 
h hady islads had achd
h as 

h Rma Cs l, ad, as a dc aais

h slis ad balis
as
i
h hich h
 h sh ld hav
 c
d  ladi, M
ll s
ca sd his allys
 b _am -la
d_ i
h
hic
hids ad s
is, a
ca
i hich savd may  his shis ad m m ds
 c
i. Th
l 
h islad y
h bcam
h absbd i
h Rma amis,
ad i
as maily

h Balaic slis
ha
Rm hsl d may
a vic
y.
As
im asss ,  id
h Ms hldi
h islads i s bjc
i
 a sac    h dd yas. O
h las
day 
h ya 1229,

hv, D Jaym, Ki  Aa, havi, i
h his l
, a
hd a
a l s
m--a v
ms

yi

h ai
h  his c sads, ad
ci
ical

h 
  Majca--ladd i
h his Chis
ia hs
, ad
camd a  mils m
h ci
y. O
h mi lli,
h Hly
Sacam
as admiis
d

h Sldis 
h Css, h, b i
i
h sacd zal ad isid i
h
h ad   c s, machd
i
h hs ad 

h , ld by
h y 
i sh
i his
ba

l-cy  "Advac, y bavs! By y  ams al
h Ld dlivs
y c 
y m
h as 
h Iidl. Fad!" As
h Chis
ia
amy, hv,  ai
h my, l
d 
hi a
 mbs
ad midabl si
i,
hi ha
s smd
 ail. Obsvi
his,

h chival s D Jaym d 
al
 a  sac b

h
si hs
s, ad, cyi al d

h ii
 isi i
h c a

h ha
s  h ais, h b

h
 i v
ay. Filld
a
c i
h lis  sham, admia
i, ad zal,
h ladi a
s
 shd 

h bach, i
h a l d cy  "Sac
a Maia!" ad, i a
 h s, v ils  mild dad, M ad Chis
ia, ams

h
sm
  b i h ss, ad
h d s
ad a  ba

l,
h Chis
ia
ba la
d v
h ci
y  Palma. S h aai  may say,
"Palmam i m i
a
."
L
i a

h ci
y m
h sa, i
has a vy Oi
al aaac.
This c liai
y is d cd by
h la
-d h ss ad ba, yll
alls, i
h
h cac
s ad ic
ly a i aais

hm,
h
mia
-li
 s
ls ad ms -li
 b ildis,
h lih
acads ad

llis-

h dlli-h ss,

h i
h
h  
alm,

h l bamb, ad
h i i i all dic
is. N
hi ca b
m aabl
ha
 l  i
h mll vi al
h bad
ama
s, aais
hich
h bl  a
s 
ly slash, ad
 az 

h hih m 
ai a, s aa , i
h
h c
y s mmi
s
id
i
h a i
ish h  by
h lc
i 
h s 's dclii ays. This
al
is
h Rambla,   blic mad,  hich, al
h h
h di
_chi_ is,  a, bii
 xhibi
i
s dmi
y,  may m

i
h may a lvly da h
 
h S
h dad i
h blac
lac shal
ad
h ac l ma
illa. Ams

h mal asa
s, a c lia
m  had-dss is ad
d, calld
h Rbsi, m ai
, 

hi
,
ha la
. I
csis
s  a s
i ill adia
i m
h
had ad ac, hil m
h a 
h c
dds a sil l
lai
 hai, hich is ca h
i i
h
h sash cicli
h ais
.
I ac
,
h 
i cs
m is vy simila

ha
 may 
h
Siss ca
s. Th mal asa
ds a siml a
-s
i, vy id

ic
bc
s, li lis, sadals, ad d ca  ha
i
h a
bad bim.
Na
 Palma is a i ld s
 il  Mish ashi, b il
by D
Jaym I. (El C is
ad),
 cmmma

h c s
 Majca;
ad,  
h , cc yi a i si
i ams
a-vs, ad
 a 
l sl vl
i
h Mdi
aa, is Bdia
,
h
hadsm alac 
h Ma s d Rma; s calld i Ca
ala,  ld
Pval, m
h ac

h C is
ad havi _did ll_ 

ha
s
a
 h aid his vic
y.
Th la a 
h islad is Mall i, hich is simly a slih

c 
i  Ca
ala. Th Ca
ala la a ad
h ld Pval ,
a

h id 
h c s
 Bacla m
h Ms, aly
id
ical. I
as i
d cd i

h Balas by
h Ki  Aa,
D Jaym, a

h id  his c s
 Majca. As, hv,
d ca
i has  la
 mad a
ss i
hs islads,  lss

ha 
h mailad, ad is cd c
d  xcll
icils,
h

classical la a  Sai,
h   Cas
ilia, is  vyh

a h
, ad
h
achi  vicial a
is is hibi
d. Th
cc
i 
h c  Aa i
h
ha
 Cas
il havi md

h basis 
h Saish machy, i
ill b asily ds
d h
h

 la as,
h Cas
ilia ad
h Ca
ala, a, i a a
mas ,
bldd

h. Th Cas
ilia, hv, hil s
ill svi i
s
hih iish,  i
y, ad lac, s m ch  i
s c

h bld,
v s
  
h ld ali
 ac  Aa.
As  ads
h h
h a s

s  Palma, h ma
s  

vs
is 
h Saacic id, bsids may smb mdival alacs
 G
hic achi
c
 a
d 
h Mish s
yl, i c

sva
i, mi 
hmslvs cl, ll-shadd s

s. Thi
_aads_ a 

d i
h aabs  dvics bd m
h Eas
,
hil
h amial bais 
hi c
ih
ly  mcha

sssss s
ill idica
 by hm
hy  cc id. Thi
all,
achd ids a all s 
d by
is
d illa
s, hil
h a

s
y-lis a ally ba

lm
d. W d ba
h may l,
bad achays i
hs a, sil
s

s, as  assd al,
ad discvd sval la
s a _a
is_ ad mabl c 
s,
i
h cavd  
ais i
h mids
,
h say m hich di sd a
dlih
 l clss. A d
h   alls 
hs c 
s a acadd

acs, caid i
h achs cssi ad cssi ach 
h,
ad isi m lih
sial cl ms 
h ms
la
aaac;
hil
h hl is s 
d ba
h by a
 ad bl achs 
a dvic, s
i  massiv cl ms, i
h sha
ad cai
al chasd
i
h ich ad laba
 cavi. Th vidc  a
m  lc
is  d
h h

h ci
y i
h sldid lics  Saacic
achi
c
,  i
hs  m s alacs  vas
siz, i
h
hi
mabl s
aicass ad
acid bal s
ads. Th maiic
lics

h as

ll laily 
h c l ishi cdi
i  Majca
ad i
s cai
al, h
h as
h hm 
h M, as
h abd ad
s

lm

h  m s
ih
ly lls 
h yal c ,
D Jaym,  as
h sidc  l x i s mcha
ics h mad

his ai isl
hi hm ad
h d

hi asis, a

h
id h
h Balas  i
h  ll hihay

h  s
Eas
, b asc da Gama had discvd
h 


h Idis by

h Ca  Gd H.[27] B ildis  s assi ba
y--scially

h Lja, vl
i
h hab , c
h xcha,  _b s_, ad
lac   blic m
i 
hs b sy cmm i
is, ad
h s
yl 
hich is
h ms
x isi
 G
hic--a

s

h m cmbia
i 

as
 ad  lc xis
i ams

hm.
Amids

h habi
a
is 
h l classs  alays  d
h md
b ildis aisd 
h b
  is  Mish s
 c
s; ad
h
s bs
a
a  Mish masy v havi b d cd
 ay al
lvl,
h is a asc
 i ali
y, a is ad all i all
h
lis 
h
, m ha
v i
i
b bsvd, hich is ms

ic
s . al

a, has, is
h ly 
h ci
y hs al
aaac is simila i
his sc
. Dcay, hv, is sdi 
i
h aid
h h s
al
hy ac, ad
hs ma
s 
h as
m s

s disaa.
Th ci
y is s  dd by 
iica
is; b

h ms
md
i s--
hs  Phili II.--
h h s
ill massiv,  ld b,

i
hs
adi
h sh  ais i
hi, as 
 aais
a my
as
h Saacic 
s,  c mbli aay,  hich
hy a b il
.
Al
h h visi
d by ccasial
ms
s, hich a
h ams

h
hihlads ad s v
h islad, Majca jys a ms
l x ia

clima
. Th s  l

s d
h h

h ya m a hav 
ss
bl . Th a
ha

h s
h s mm is
md by
h
sh sa bz, ad
h vda
m 
ai sls ad vallys  a
cl ad shady 
c
i m
h ays  a  l s . Th sil 

h lais is ich, ad, c l
iva
d by
h id s
y 
h hady islad
ac, yilds ms
l x ia
cs  c ad lax, hil
h a,
liv, ad
h cab  i
h ilds
l x iac.
D i
h s mm
h is a a
scaci
y  a
; b

h ais
 a
m ad i
 a cllc
d 
h iia
i 
h lad i
m s svis, hich c
ai s ici
a

 las

h h


h dy sas. Each ladhld has his ilds
h ldd i
,
a
c
ai i
vals,  aym
 a a
-a
. Th 
ili
y 

h islad, c ld i
h
h hs
y ad id s
y 
h ihabi
a
s,
ds livi cha; ad byd
h alls 
h smi-Saish cai
al,
x

i, v i
h ai
s
m, is 

h h

h l
h
ad bad
h  Majca.
Th asa
y ad
h s 
h sil liv 
ms 
h a
s

ami
y ad c

m
. Th dis
ic
i  class is cisd i 
ay
ha
d cs
h slih
s
bi

ss  ha
b is. F l
yas
h hay islads, saa
d m
h s

h ld, hav
add ach 
h as  amily. Thy sm
 ca li

l, ad v


 li

l,  
h a
is,  v 
h c 
y  hich
hi
islad is  
h vics. Absbd i
hi a
iachal md
 xis
c, s
ad i
hi habi
s ad md  li m
hi
ll-s bjc
s 
h is la,
h siml islads
 
hi

h a
,
h s is, ad
h cims hich hav
  
ly

h a lm v
h his
y  la, m lih
d, ad m
civilisd cmm i
is.
I
his small ad ac l islad ach  ads his ihb 
i
h a
 s

ha
is aly b
ayd. Th is a cs
a
s
a
 
c

m
, dis
bd by  asabl dsis. H mbl cm
c,
 by hs
lab , ll ad sis

ly d, is all
ha
is
cssay
 sa
isy
hs siml l.
FOOTNOTES:
[25] Mallca, i Saish.
[26] Aci
Ki  Majca. S  Jaym I., Ki  Aa, calld
_El C is
ad_, m havi c d Majca m
h Ms, A.D.
1229.
[27] A.D. 1498.
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER XII.
THE ALE OF SOLLER.--CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE.--INTRODUCTION OF THE
TELEGRAPH.--SUPERSTITION OF THE PEASANTRY.--PRODUCTIONS OF THE
ISLAND.--THE ROAD.--GUARDIA CIIL.--OBLIGING LANDLADY.--BRIDGE OF

LA M.--BATTLE WITH THE TURKS.

Th al  Sll, sm
hi
y mils acss
h islad, is
h ms

dlih
 l xc si
h
 is
ca ma
. As,  c s,  had
slvd
 visi
i
, bhld s
is
i  d
h sha cs 

h a s

s  Palma i a  caia, da by a
am 
  sldid m ls a
 ll all, i
h
h div's hi
i
 a  i i, ad
h div himsl

i vllys  ylls,
hil
h l i
h s

l ih
ad l
li
 a
i a
s,
ad a cd  yli ds  s d s. A
 a

li
h h a ld
Mish ach, ad v a dabid,  dashd i

h  c 
y.
I a sh

im  cam  a i  ia
ic liv-
s. May
c
is m s
hav all 
hm, 
hy  y ad ha.
Sm 
h a
ald
 
s, i
 
i cic mc, 

is
d ad

d by ayad a
 i
 a
h sad id ad
c
h shas. Ths d l
s, ld h
h M  ld
h
islad, hav 
livd may a cha i i
s his
y. Sic
hi bi
h,
hl ls hav bcm d s
, ad dyas
is hav assd aay. Thy
a lics  a y  ld; ad as
ilih
alls a d
hm,

hy lm i
h
hi l, la ams ad dis

d
 
s, a 
ad
has
ly, aais

h d ll y ai, li
 a assmbly  aci
hs
s.
Fm
his sc  md i
 id lais,  i
h s
i c,
ad bdd by ia
ic als. Ths lais yild
h cs a ya.
O j
h jili m ls, hil
h cl ds  yll d s
hil aay
i
h mi bz. W ass 

y la
-d, Oi
al-l
i
h ss, i
h cl d blids ad balcis, b id i vs  acacia
ad ic
ly a. W  sal
d    ay by may a da
-yd maid,
hdd i h a zy ca
, ad i
h
h  l lai
 hai,  by
s
ala
lab s as
hy al
d bis
ly

hi day's 
.
Th  
h asa
s 
i i
h ilds, dssd i l, ls
T 
ish
 ss ad bih
sash,
hi hads b d i a dy
chis,
h all a sd m
hi lab 
 av a 
i as  assd, ad

 cy, "Ta, Ss,
a."[28] I chaac
,
hs d l
a
h vs 
hi ihb s  alcia  Ca
alia. Thy a
s siml ad hs
,
ha
cim i Majca is a a
xc
i; hil
i alcia i
is da s
 al
abad a
 da
i
h
sm
a  dc, ad
ha
,  c s, is slss aais

h assassi
h aachs m bhid. I
his hmly isl  may ad ab
as
m ch as h lass, i
h allys 
h ci
y  amids

h m 
ai
asss, sc  ad mls
d. Th a    mas  sca 

h cimial, ad,
h, his d
c
i is c
ai, 
h l
 s him all shl
. Majcas aly dsi
 mai
ai ac ad
d i
hi islad, ad cim is,
h, dd a lsi am.
Th Majca asa
s, hv, a s s
i
i s
 a d, ad
dsly ia
. This may b acc 
d  by
h ac

ha

h mass

h  la
i csis
s 
h lab i classs, ad
ha

hy
a s cml
ly isla
d m
h s
 ma
id. T a

m
,

h,
 a

hi imi
iv mids ay sci
iic 
a
is
ic imvm
is a  i
 l
as
. A  yas a a li 

lahic cmm ica
i as a

m
d b
 Sll ad Palma; b

as s as
h ls ad is  c
d,
hy  i may lacs
ds
yd, 
m il l malic, b
m a ixd 
i
ha

h

lah as sm diablical iv
i 
h Evil O, ds
id

bi
hm
 ay am 
 i. I
as i vai
 xs
la
 
xlai. Th is  c
ad c
aai. Hv, 
h ma
ic

icil bi mad



h asa
y 
h dis
ic
, sm m
lih
d
ha
h s
ishd

s
i
s icacy by si
iv
; ad h
hy had
ha
mssas mih
b s
al
h is,

hy ccl dd
ha
ds ad cha

ls mih
b
as
d i
h
sam ma m lac
 lac. Cs 
ly, d i
h is


a

h
lah had cmmcd a
is, all s
s 
his 
 d hai 
h is  a dis
ac  aly iv mils--b dls
 cl
hs, ais 
ic
bc
s, 

ica
s, bas

s  dibls,
ad v is. I ac
, a _lla dida_  dms
ic a
icls, all
a
ly
ic

d ad addssd, as  d avi i
h bz. Th
d asa
y, hv, idi
ha

h
lah as l i i
s

asmissi 
hs a
icls

hi ds
ia
i
ha
hy had
a
icia
d, a
ally ccl dd
ha

h hl
hi as a hax ad
a sidl 
h a

h Gvm
ad Sa
a, ad a
d
hi
vac 
h 
a
 ls ad is by
c
i
hm d.
W had aachd

h 

h m 
ai a  had hi
h

s m aa,
 hich
h ad ascdd by ad al iclis. Th
hih   d m
h ha
bl,
h sha bcam
h bz.
O all sids Ali v
a
i sad a d,  mi
h ai i
h
a h dd d s. W  s d
h zi-zas 
il   clsd by
a smicicl  m s ciics ad s
d s c
s,  hs
b
li bs
h
li i-
s cl . W l
vhlmd by

h sih

hs s
d s masss,  i
smd as i a ba
h
 ld disld
hm, ad h l
hm d  s. Th ad, scai
 a
im m
h d csss 
hs adama
i alls, s
i
d

h lvl d  a l
y ciic; ad,   ccasi,  slashd

h h a

hich, a  
   l
, ll i a id ach
v
h c
y mai, ad  shd, silvi i
h s y ai, a d
i

h da
 l ba
h, hil
h a  i
s a
s chd li

dis
a

h d ams

h hlls 
h dsla
 m 
ais. Aai
 ascdd, ad i 
i as  s,
h a
s smd
 a

hmslvs abv s. Th  divd i
 a vas
cls   v
ical
alls, i hich  l
as i i a is, d ad lmy i
sl, b

m hich  c ld s
h bih
va l
 hav abv.
A
 a h 's climb i
his smb vally,  sa
d  s
ad
a _ciaill_  a ay-sid s

 aai

h cmi 
h m ls
ad caia. As  l
d bac

h h
h c
y ass by hich 
had 
d
h ,  had a lasa
,
h h a dis
a
, vi 
lih
 sls ad id sadi lais, shii bih
ly i
h
yll l  day, ad ccasially
i
d i
h
h y h s 
h
liv. B di
hs lais, i a l a li  dazzli lih
,

h hi
 alls  Palma; hil byd, i
s h  c
as
i i
h

h
asa
bl  
h s
lss s
y, ad lc
d h ad
h
by
h hi
 sail 
h l ccas, ivd
h l hih li 

h  l sa. Hih y
 ascd, v ads avd by
h Ms
six h dd yas a. Lavi
h caia 
h a
h bl, 
scambl 
h h
ald sh bbis,
h h cac
s, als, cab,
v a
, ad aci
liv. All a d ad v s a ild
h
ild m 
ais, i
h s
s  i scali

hi vy a
s, ad
s
adi 
li
  al l ms i da
, blac
is aais

h
adia
s
y. W ass  s  s
 s b 
asa
s, i
h a siml
a
-s
i
id 
hi bac
s  a am
. W civ am
hm

imid ils, la-yd ad hdd, i
h s
ami lai
s  bl -blac

 ld a b  hai, ad ld m, s a

i  m ls, i
h
hi

hads cvd by
h ha
,  masc li had-a, li

ha
 by
h
m  Wals. Wid ad id, as  is abv
h l ladsca,
sads
h li s sc
bhid s--ild c
, vda
sl,
s y lais, s
a
d i
h
h d s
y liv,
h l, hi
 li 


h dis
a
ci
y, ad
h da

bl  bas

h dami sa; 
il,
 a s dd,  ass v a da
c
y la
a , ad
h sc ds
ic
ly m vi, li

h dams  byhd,
h bih
yais 
y
h, ad all
his  ba
y hich a b
 ad,-"Y
h's d dams, li
 vi s
is,
A
id i
h cl s bih
;
Thi cl d-b il
alls ad

s is
I lis  dazzli lih
.
B
Tim as  i
h s
al
hy ac,
Ad bs  slm y,
Ad i
h shad  i
s ac,
Th lis ad aay."
B
a
 c
 malisi,   shall v 
 i
h
h j y.
W ass v
h c
y la
a , ad vy
hi bhid s, as  bi
  dsc
, is

ally clisd. I advac, d ad a bl,
s
i i
h vy la   vas
chas  ild ad l
y m 
ais,
lis
h hi
 li

l
  Sll. I
s sca

d  s 
y-li

h ss a lami m 

h da
-  a vs ad bs
 ci
. Th l dclis 
h yll ad aa, m  
lva
d si
i,
 id aay i

h dis
a
lia li
 ld
s
s. All a d is ia
c
s, ad m s blc
s, 
by
h
lih
i m
hi a
alls, ha
ha
i 
h vy v
 l
y clis hih abv s; hil
h a
az  cicl c


hav by
h vas
c
 a
s hich, a
a a
al
i
d al
,
ss  d
h sc, is cla ad s
lss, sav h a al
isd  lvl i is ba
hi i
h balmy ai. D a

ls
h
calch, ad
h   blac
m ls jil mily . T  a

 is
mad i
h ad, ad c
ad  ass m ild 
is, 
il
 a s dd
h m s a

h P i May,
h l
is
m 
ai
i Majca, is s
i ads i lmy majs
y v
h ai
sc bl.
As  dscdd  ba
hd a am a
msh, ad a
las
 d
 slvs i
h aa
vally  Sll, i
h vy ha
 i
s
 ad  i
 l bsm, h
h ai as havy i
h
h d  

h a-l, ad
h i i  si  ld 
h
. W

hadd la a
 la, shadd v i
h
h d  bachs
hich m
vhad,
h ld  i
hai m
hm i s
s, ad

m
ily ivi
i s
 l c

hm. Th hl c 
y a d smd
li
 a id ad, i
h mids
 hich avd alms ad amas-ass.
Th as vyh a ichss  vd , a  si  li, hich
shd
h c di
y  a
 i
hs S
h clims. Th cham

h scy as m ch icasd by
h c
as
b

h sava
m 
ais, s ba ad c
y, ad
h c
aadis hich a
 i
h bi mm
s had ca
d i vy vally.[29]
Th villa  Sll is a cdi


h Saish a
i ad
 i
sl.
Sai ad i
s
s a di
y ad mald s, sai
ay las bi
ally lc
d; b
h, i
his m
 c  h dmiis,
lyi 
 ad b id i a d m 
ai basi, ad scl dd m

h s

h ld, sh sssss a ba
i l li

l villa,
ma
abl 
h claliss  i
s h ss ad l. A
Sll, as
vyh
h h

h islad,
h is a dccy  d
m
, a
sc
 la, a mds
y ad bai
y  dma hich i
is ally
dlih
 l
 i
ss.
Th i
i 
h li

l i,  _sada_--hich mas li
ally a

lac  s--is ashd ad hi
ashd, sc bbd ad lishd,


il i
is as  m sc
 s
ai as
h a-amd D
ch villas
hich a hld 

h Ga
Uashd a
la as sai
ay ad
sal
ay xamls. Th li

l
s
l bds
ads  hi
 d, i
h

hi sy sh
s, i
h li

l hi
ashd bdms, sm i
hi
hay iac 
h la
 
cml
ly

h bl sh
hs  l
ad ism bds i Saish is i hich
h aid
avll lis
d, 

 id s, b

  himsl a hllss vic
im

 myiads  mis, h m vy 
ad cay cm 
h,

his
i  his bld.
Th vally  Sll, ly six mils i cic mc, alizs
25,000  a m by
h sal  i
s as ad lms, ad 30,000
by i
s il. Th liv
s  l x ia
ly vyh, ad 

acs c


h sls 
h m 
ais a  sd i

h
hihs
c
i. Th ads a i xcll
cdi
i, ad s m ch
ii s
ill has b dislayd i
hi cs
 c
i
ha

h

asi
  i
v
h m 
ais

h 
 mba
a
i is a
cmaa
ivly asy ma

. All
h ads,
h m 
ai asss, ad

h islad ally, a 
c
d, al
h h m
h chaac
 

h Majcas
h ca
i is scacly cssay, by a i bdy
 lic, calld
h _G adia Civil_. Thy a a maly, b s
bdy
 m,  mbi lv
h sad, icl di
hs h a mlyd

h 
i as
 cas

h mailad, a cmaa
ivly small
 mb bi  id i
h islads. I may a
s  Sai ,
biada xis
s
 a csidabl x

, ad
h hl c is

h dd
 aad
hi all

d dis
ic
s i
h ladd
cabis. I Majca
hi ics, as  hav said, a li

l dd,
b

h mailad
hi i
c is 
  isi
, ad
hy
m
hi ad  s d
is i
h all
h i  cssay 
h
mai
ac  la ams

h dai acs h ihabi

h m 
ais
ad sa-cas
s  Sai. I ay h is discvd i
h ac

s

i
h la a
diac  ss
 s d, h is sh
d
i
h
mcy. Ths i
id m hav 

 mai
ai ms
 al
s
 ls, ad a,  c s, hld i a
d
s
a
i ams

h
cimial classs, by hm
hy a  
ly mad vic
ims

hi

his
 vac. Thi im is ic
s , y

mali
,
csis
i cisly 
h cs
m 
h  la I
alia biad
i
h
his
ady iy.
Th a
cham 
h Majca  la
i is
ha

hy a a dis
ic

islad ac, i
h a la a alms

hi ; ad havi livd 
c
is haily ad c

dly as  amily,
hy a dcil ad
dly, ad c 
 s
 a d
 s
as. S
am has ly b
i
d cd  la
 yas, ad 

h is
aival  _El a_

hy  cmaa
ivly c
 m all
h ld, i
s l
s ad
assis, ad ssd i
hi  i
id s
i s  s i
s.
Majca is a
s
 m
h la  
 is
s. Scacly a
s
a i
 ds, byd
h ci
y  Palma, i

h csss  i
s
ds, m 
ais, ad villas. Cs 
ly
h cha  vy
hi
is ma
ably mda
, ad 
h ccasi    xc si
 Sll
 had a cai
al di  iv l,[30] icl di a sac
  
h dd as sh m
h b hs, 
 shillis, bsids a
dal  s

i, ad a

i, ad sha
i  hads 
h a


h "ai, a
, ad 
y" ladlady, h da h
, ad mi hs


h Fda d la Paz,    da
 
h m 
ai ass  El
Baac. Th d ladlady, h is als c
,  ds
d dacd a
chaac
is
ic dac sm
lv yas a b Ld L----,  his
visi

 Sll, li

h da h
  Hdias b Hd. Bi a


h
im    visi
 s ici
dimsis
 
 i
h middl

 a m  a ivalid
 al


ims  d i
h c s  a
day, as a mas m
 a
m  
l xcis,
ha
lady vy
ly abs
aid m a
i h Tsicha xim
s 

his ccasi. Had sh iv ay
 h lv 
h ac l xcis,
sh  ld hav b  vy dis
a
smblac
 a is
y lha
,
ad mih
bably hav b

h h
h l 
h aa
m
.
Fm
h _miad_,  

y
ac 
h
 
h h s, 
id
i
h vi-lavs ad jasmi, ad a
ly shadd i
h
h i ad
vai s s
-sc
d la
s, a lvly vi  ll-ih
h 
i
vally, i
h i
s mass  v
abl li, i
s id a vs, ad
i
s avi alms, is b
aid, hil
h aac 
h a l
is a
d
h h vy casm
. Th i
 clima
 
h vally is
mild ad dlici s, as i
s
ical v
a
i amly
s
iis; hil

h ha
i s mm is v
 i
s,  a i
h h
h
ha

h m 
ais
ads
h 
h-s
,
h h hich a small
silv iv ls

h sa, admi
s
h shi bz.
Fm Sll  s
a
d  a ba
i l al


h 
(El P 

d Sll), si
a
d 
h 
h-s
cas
. Th ad lay
h h
a vs, ad av s  ia
ic bambs ad m s als,

h li

l iv li si
ly  by   sid. Wh  had advacd
sm dis
ac a ld ba

d bid aad b s. This as
h
bid  La M, h i
h middl 
h six

h c
y a a l
s
 l, accmaid i
h a
sla h
, cc d b
 a hs

 ivadi T 
s ad
h alla
m  Sll. Th ihabi
a
s 

h li

l
, al
h h a
ly 
 mbd,  vd by
h
y  dsai, ad i
as a s
i  "
 d  di." Thy m s

i
h c   lav
hi ld m,
hi ivs,
hi
idd, ad
li

l s
 mis h
  mcy, b
 ld c
aily dm

hm
 dish , da
h,  slavy. Ami
hmslvs,
h,
has
ily i
h ha
v as
hy c ld cllc
,
h li

l bad 
six h dd[31]
l
d i
h ma

-lac ad ayd v
ly


h Gd 
h Chis
ias
 blss
hi ams. Th, cmmi

i
hi
amilis

h ca  hav,
hy machd

h a

ac
. Th T 
ish
amy, havi ladd a

h 'clc
i
h mi, had imaid
hy
c ld
a

h
 by s is, hil i
s ihabi
a
s  s 
i
sl mb; b

hi l
had b vi sly s i
h i by
h
Majcas m
hi a
ch-
 a

h 
, ad sialld

h
Sll ais. A

h bid  La M
h si cs m
, ad

h ba

l ad i
h  al ad   b
h sids. I
h mids

h
s
 l a  m  achd
h Chis
ia
s
ha
a
h bad 
T 
s had aad a
hi
 by a cic i
 s 
, ad 
sla h
i
hi amilis ad ii
hi hms. This sad mssa
 a mm
ll 
hi ha
s li
 a
ll  dsai, ad  a
sh

im
hy  s disii
d
ha

h T 
s aid sm
may
adva
a. A

his ci
ical mm

h calm, ic
isdm  J a
Ala
s,
h a
i
lad, sa
ha
  s m 
ddd

h iss  
h day. Lai  a m d, i
h
h ba 
h
Rd Css  S
. G avi i his had, ad i  ll sih
 b
h
amis, i
h ba had ad lami ys, h sh
d, "Ss  Sll!
i  
i  a sca

d ad ls
. Rally, ally! O  amilis a
i
h hads  Gd. Cha  vac ad Sai
G, ad l


a iidl sca. Fad, i
h am 
h Hly ii!" Wi
h 
l d sh

h alla
bad  shd  i
h
h im
 s sd  a
vas
bl
dischad 
h . N
hi c ld i
hs
ad
h vilc

hi assa l
, ad cssi
h iv v
h ha  T 
ish
dad,
hy sad da
h ad ds
 c
i am
h Mhammda
s,
bi slvd i
h
 as

 iv a
. Ys ,
h my's

lad, ll icd
h h ad
h h, ad
h alli a
s 
h
iidls, di vic
ims a
vy s
 i
hi 
a
, ld i ild
disd

hi allys; ly - 
h 
h ivads v
ally
ladi a
Alis
 a

s

h ss 
h Chis
ia a
i
.
Sh
ly a
 assi
h bid  La M  aivd a

h 

Sll, md by a li

l bay, a

h 
ac  hich,  i
h
sid, is l
y c
s, cvd i
h liv, ad i
h a
chs  da
a
, hil ccasial is av
hi smb hads lmily i
h
bz. I
is a ild ad dsla
 lac,
h ly s d hich is
had bi
ha

h bl  avs as
hy dash caslssly 
h
sil
sh. A  id Mish
 iss , s
a
ad y, 

h s
m-ba

d c
s, li
 sm mlachly sii
bdi v
cllc
is 
h as
. A  small ishi ca
, hich a all

ha
s
  h, say
-ad-, md

h sh, ba
h
sm h mbl c

as vl
i
h l all 
h li

l hab .
Th bay i
sl is
 all i

s a
hmlss, bi
h basi  a
x
ic
vlca, ad
h is cs 
ly  acha  shis.
FOOTNOTES:
[28] Th s al assi m  sal
a
i i Majca. I
mas "d
day,"  "d ih
,"  ay
hi civil i ac
.
[29] Th may b sm h ill s sc

his acc 
 a alms


 b
cmaa
ivly a islad
 b xaa
d. T s ch 
say, sm day, is
ad  i
 Gva, 
 Majca.
[30] W  accmaid by Ca
ai Gaham, H Majs
y's Cs l
a
Palma; Ca
ai Wd, R.N., ad Ms. Wd. T all 
hm  a
idb
d 
h a
s

idss ad c 
sy sh
 s d i  
s
ay i Majca.
[31] S
a
 say--
h  mb 
h alla
 h d a

Balaclava.
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER XIII.
THE PORT OF SOLLER.--CONENT OF LLUCH.--A LEGEND OF THE
MONASTERY.--CATHEDRAL OF PALMA.--REMAINS OF KING JAYME
II.--ATTRACTIONS OF THE BALEARIC ISLES.--MINORCA.--ITS CONNECTION
WITH ENGLISH HISTORY.
Th al
s a d Sll a vaid ad ba
i l, s
i

h
dlih
d y a chami bldi  sava ildss ad 
il
c l
iva
i. I  a

h ld ca  bhld a m cml

ic
-ally  all
h vai
is  a
al scy
ha i
h
Isl  Majca. Th day lli   aival a
Sll as am ad
adia
, as, idd, vy day aas
 b i
his av d s
.
A
 a ba
as
 sh is,  mil
, ad a s
  is ad
ic,  s
a
d
h h
h a-ads

h m 
ais. Th
mi ai as s am ad aa

ha
, as i

ly ad s,
 l
as i   i a  md ba
h, 
il  s
d 


h is
icli 
h c

y sls, h, as   d
h
shad  imms c
s,
h a
msh as cld. Sm
ims   d
 slvs i a
chasms h
h m 
ai aad
 hav b 

as d by sm vil
xlsi 
h cs  a
; ad h,
ccasially alamd by a sha ad ici cy,  l
d ads, 
sa
h ldly al i
h 
s

chd is hvi v
h abyss.
A
 ascdi a s
 a
h idi b
 dic la alls 
c
,  cam s ddly  a sc  a
ad , lly, da
,
ad lmy. Aay i   
a mih
y avi, cl
by sm a


h  a
, yad
 s ch a m s d
h
ha
i
smd

discls
h vy c 
h m 
ai. Whil s
adi 
h v
 a a a
hay,
h y, as i
l
d v i
, l d d i

a a
abyss  da
ss, m hich, a bl, as blac

s
 c
ad b
 iacls lmi i
h isi mis
s. I
mad
h
sss l
 acy, i
h 
slid, 
h d 
h a
hay
av ay,
 ha

 csss 
h a
h  sh ld dscd!
Hih abv 
ssd, li

h ia
avs  a ai
 sa, a ild
chas  da
ad l
y a
s, hil, v all, s
 i i
s ad ad
lmy majs
y, d aais

h bih
bl  s
y
h vas
blac
had

h P i May.[32]
This sldid , hich, as a scim 
h ad   m 
ai
sli
ds m s
b  
h ms
chaac
is
ic i E , is calld
El Baac.[33] Wh  s
ads al i s ch a sc--a mvd
m all amilia asscia
is--i
is alms
imssibl
 dscib i
ay la a
ha
 ld 
b dmd x
avaa
,
h ssa
i by
hich h is vd. Fm
h s mmi

h P i,
h maiicc

h sc
ill ay a d al
 
h
 bl 
h asc
.
Raisd hih abv a i  m 
ai a
s, blac
s
d s s,
ad a ild chas  iv c
s, sh
 m
h bls 
h lb
i sm imval cv lsi, sas
h massiv s mmi
. Whil  
s
adi  i
 a
chd
h a
 s  sl hli d

h
s
ad sas. Immdia
ly ba
h, a
as
ic cl ds ad l id
s
a
s  va  c ld ad ddid li
 s
a aial ha
ms
ams

h slm csss 
h lly m 
ais, si
i i

h
da
ss 
h vas
d
hs bl.
Ov
h id lais 
h islad s

chd li
 a ia
's cha
a

  
,  savaahs, bad d s
y
ac
s  liv, ad xass 
yll sad, sa
li h ad
h i all dic
is,  xhibi
d

   dlih
d az. Ts s  dd by li

i hi
 alls, ad
sca

d haml
s i m 

h d csss  sadi ds
ad vs  a, 
d
h di y; hil aay
ads
h
hiz, cicli
h maiic
sc
, as
h sa, lc
d i
all dic
is i
h
iy s li
sails.
A
 scambli d
h a
m 
ai alls, h
h shads 
ih
ba
 a
h a d s,  dscdd

h Cv
 Ll ch,
hich  achd,
ha
s
   ay  id, i sa
y. Th ild
ac
s
ad a a
hs, sm
ims s
i
i ciics  m s d
h,
a
ally s s
d
h h
s  da. I sm midabl as 
h
m 
ai
h as 
hi b

h d ll
ilih
ad
h d sahi

h s
is
 lih
s    a ay; ad, had i

b 

h imlici
liac  lacd i   ac
isd  id,
h ha


h bavs
mih
ll hav aild. W
 Elishm, lddi  a

ih
i
h s
s  a ild m 
ai,  idd ly by
h ccasial
lam  his cia

, am
h lly cas 
h Majca hills,
 csci s  a c
ai ma
ic las  hich  xicd i
c
mla
i
h vl
y ad da    si
i.

W sl

ha
ih
a

h Cv
 Ll ch, a lly lac i a hll


h m 
ai. A l-l
i ad cadav s y  ma, i a l
am
 
al
i
, ad i
h a asy blac
a la ca  his
had, d
h d h  a  admi

ac. His c
i  s
as a
h c lia. A
 yai ad sca
chi himsl, h
d
his bac
ad 
i

h b ildi, l
i vy li
 Nah i i


h a
, as  laly dlia
d i
h amilia
y i v  ams

Bi
ish ia
s. H, hv, 
d i a mm
, i
h a cadl
hich shd a a
y lam 
h ba alls, ad shd s i

h
cv
, h   

aid i a a
h  al ma.
A
 disc ssi, a

h x
m d  a vy l
abl, i a vy
l m, ad i a vy sh

im, a as
 s  i, li
 vy
ii Aica 
, i
h blac
bad ad had s,
as
i as
i
hy had b bild i lam-il,  
id
 s
i a ba,
hi
ashd cll, h  sl
 a c l  ma

sss, cvd
v i
h s
id ll m l  s. W bsvd i   chamb,
hai  a ail, a vy dssi ic
  sm sai
 
h
i
h a ca
hi-hl aa
ly xldi m
h bac
 a vy
bald had. Th Cv
 Ll ch,  L
, is clba
d as a lac
h
h ii, a
sm m id, dscdd m Hav. Sh
cam ly c,  
ld, ad csidi all
his,  ally
ca
d a
h havi  d  visi
i
 s ici
.
A
   a
i i climb ams

h m 
ais,   lad

id  slvs aai i
h s y ci
y  Palma, i
h i
s ld cavd
a
ays, i
s yll, la
-d h ss, d s
y ads, acacia av s,
ic
s   la
i, ad Damasc s-li
 scs. I
as lasa


 
i m
h blaz 
h midday s  i

h cl shad 
ld G
hic clis
s, i
h
hi ba
i l illas ad achs. W
add i
h dlih
i
h bih
 ad i
h mids
, 
s
ayd a
ill i
 hal- id c 
yads, i
h ad ld Mish
achs, i a dim ad sil

a
. Evy
hi i
h ci
y
has a Oi
al chaac
. Th  m s ac
al mais  Saacic
achi
c
,
h sldid masis b il
by mdival
ih
s 
mcha
s,
h yll alls  hich
h al s, ad
h achd
ids h ad
h chd i ic
s  i lai
y,  l
i
d i
 ads illd i
h alms, cac
i, ad a
hy sh bs, all
mid  
h Eas
.
Th ca
hdal, a bl il, as cmmcd i 1230, by D Jaym, ad
iishd i 1346. S
adi  a lva
d si
i vl
i
h
sa, i
s havy mass, i
h all i
s a
b

sss ad lyi achs,
is s m sm dis
ac. Bl a
h bad s
 ama
s, ad 
i
h sid
h ba
i l Bay  Palma s

chs
ads i
i
s l
az  ams. A

h s
mm
, x
siv ais ad addi
is a
bi mad, ad a maiic
_aad_ is
 b c
d a
i
s s

x
mi
y; b
,
   ys,
h aish bih
ss 
h  s

c
as
s lasa
ly i
h
h
im-h d y  i
s ad ld
alls, hich hav s
d i all
hi majs
y
h h s may c
is.
Th i
i, as  
, ma
s a a
ad slm imssi 
h
mid. Th lih
 day achs
h hly sac
md ad s bd d by
ids  s
aid lass; ad
h bl hih

h av sms d bly
l
y m bi s 
d by illas 
 havy ad cl msy bad
h,
b
 ac l ad dlica
 
is.
Th chi, as s al i Saish ca
hdals, is si
a
d i
h vy
c
 
h b ildi. Al
h h maiic
i i
sl, i
i
s

i
h
h 
his imsi l
h 
h hl i
i, ad sms
li
 a a
mass  l mb, calssly l

h avm
, hich 
 ld hav ladly s
aay, i d
ha

h ba
i l sc
iv
ad
h achi
c
al 
is mih
b dd dis
ic
ly visibl.
Wi
h i
s l
y aisls, i
s sld cl ms, ad cl d ids, i

has sm smblac
 Ws
mis
 Abby, i
h

h ly s
a
s.
Wi
hi a mabl sacha s a
h chi is
h bdy  D Jaym
II., Ki  Majca, ad s 
h C is
ad, D Jaym I.; ad
ay, 
h aym
 a  als, may mi
ly isc
all
ha

mais 
ha
aci
sa. A si is
 chd, a al 
h

mb s, ad a l lass cas  ci is  lld 
, ad s
d
 a
s
l. Dssd i yal bs  scal
, ld, ad mi,

h i
ld, ii cs 
h Ki  Majca is xhibi
d as
a sc
acl. Th bs a 
 di
h h
h b la
h-li

hid, ad ici
h mbidd lvs. Th m
h is s

chd
idly , shi a da
chasm i
hi,  add by
h l

h,
sha
i i
h ja as
h lass ci is mvd. Th  d sc

s,
h c sa
ld
h  d ad
ily ys, a  c
acls 
d s
ad a dad ly 
; hil a  isly hais sca m d

h vlv
ca hich cvs
h s
ll. Th as, shivlld i
 bi
s
 did achm
, s
ic

 i
h sid 
h had li

hs 
a m
y. Pics 
ad lsh ha h ad
h by sld ibs,
i sm lacs li 
h
ha
ad ac, ad lavi da

li

l i
s ba
h. This is all
ha
mais  a c bl

i; ad


h cmlxi  bi mad a shc
i -sh 
h mbid
hd  md as, has D Jaym S d cm a
las
. W ji i

h ay, _R isca
i ac_, iscibd  his
mb; b
h
h i
s ch cic ms
acs h ca b said
 d s is m
ha d b
 l.
I
has 
 s
 c
m as vy s isi
ha
, si
h is s m ch

h h

his lvly Mdi
aa isl
 i
s

h mid i a
h dd vai s ays, s m ch
 avish
h y, ad s ch a clima
 

h aili ad
h sic
, 

 sa

h a

ac
is  i
s chi
ci
y,  m
i has hi
h
 b mad  Majca i
h  id-b
s

h day. I ac
, Msss. Badsha ad M ay  h
, i
h

dlay,
 ma
 aa
is 
hi as
lc
; 
 ly
h
a  a
s 
h cas

h Mdi
aa Sa-- isls  i
s
bsm--m a

ac
iv

h
 is

ha
hs Saish ddcis.
Isc
iv 
h ba
is ad i
s
 Majca,   ld
hi

h ac

ha

h islad  Mica had  a c
ai id b
cc
d i
h
h his
y  Elad  ld b s ici

 aa


h bs
al  m a


i 
h Balaic Isls. P
Mah,
,
 
h is
hab s i
h ld, is si
a
d i Mica.
Th am 
his islad, as all
, is als sadly asscia
d i
h

ha
     aval hs, Admial Jh By. I
as

h
li  Mica m
h Fch
ha
By as disa
chd 
ha

xdi
i hich dd i s l
s s 
a
  himsl. Al
h h
a bav, alla
sama, hihly dis
i ishd  his
ld 
aval ma

s,
h
ac
ics 
his cmmad  v
hs 
ca
i, ad his hsi
a
i
 a

ac
a l
 a s i c,
ad is

h 
a
i  his c 
y by ssibl, i 
babl,
da
, xci
d a
di m aais
him. U
h i
llic 
h
ca
i s ma i hich h had cd c
d his a
is bcmi

i Elad,
h Miis
y,
 bl ad cadly
 ba hs
ly
h
cs cs 
hi  mis
a
 mas s,
h
h 
i blam

h Admial, ad  sd ash
h a 
h a
i aais

him by acc si him  cadic. H as
id by c 
-ma
ial, ad,
al
h h cmmdd
 mcy, as cdmd
 b sh
. H m
his

a
 i
h calm hism a
P
sm
h, Mach 14
h, 1757, ad, by his
dma  i his las
mm
s, 

 sham
h misabl cal mis 
his acc ss.
"H may
ai
s

hi Gd ad Ki
Esca
h da
h hich as svd  By."
FOOTNOTES:
[32] Th l
is
m 
ai i
h islad--4850 
abv
h sa.
[33] Th Ravi.
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER XI.
HOW TO STUDY SPANISH CHARACTER.--BULL-FIGHTS.--PROISION FOR THE
SPIRITUAL WELFARE OF BULL-FIGHTERS.--FIGHT BETWEEN AN ELEPHANT AND
A BULL.--EXPEDITION TO THE CAES OF ART.
B ll-ih
s, al
h h  a
ld
hy a cdmd by
h is
s,
a s
ill
h ashi i Sai. Thy a
h a
ial _is
a_, ad

s
h Saish  blic i
hi a
al chaac
is
ics  m s



hs
m l
 s scs, as
h "i
lli
i" is s sd

 

h Dby
 cmhd
h a
 
h -b Bi
.
Th bs
b ll-ih
s[34] a
 b s a
Svill,
ha
av d
ci
y havi
h is
ic

h bl b lls hich a bd ly i
Adal ia.
Th sas cmmcs 
h is
S day a
 L
, ad, a
h
mi

i, a _ ci_ cms  ach s ccdi S day. D i
h
i
s ha
 Mids mm
h is a i
val, b

h s
s a
s md a

h d  A  s
, c
i i

h la

 a
 Oc
b,
a
 hich id
h cld a
h sms
 xcis a dssi
il c 
h y 
h aimal, v
i
h  ll  y 
h
b llish a
 m bi a sd, ad s ds
his h 
h
Saish aa icaabl  shi ih
. Th xs  ach _cida_
is ab
400 i
h la ci
is.
Th sii
al la 
h b ll-ih
s is alays vidd  a

ach _ ci_. Bhid
h scs a al
a is c
d i
h b i
cadls, ad a is
is v i ai
i
 shiv ay  dd ma h
may b caid dyi 

h i.
Cmm as may b dsci
is  b ll-ih
s

h ld a
la, 
bliv a _cida_, hich  had a 
i
y  i
ssi, has
v b dscibd b. I
as a ih
b
 a lha
ad
  b lls. Th i
 
h m aimal as a Fchma, h,
isid i
h
h ida
ha
s ch a vl cmba
 ld ivia

h
alli
as
 
h  blic  scs  sla h
, had b h
a
lha
, ad, a
a m s 
lay i lavs  bad ad hay, 


sa
 sh a
, as cd c
i him
h h
h Saish dmiis

i
h a chall
 all cms, i
h ay  b lls,
 m
al

cmba
--j s
as 
lm  s
i
as
s, i
h
ih

 ss,
  cas, ad m ls,  m lac
 lac i Elad i
h a
b ll-
i, bac
i him

ill s may a
s a day.
W s  d   ay, al i
h a babbli cd,

h a
hi

amhi
ha
 i
h

h ci
y, ad sa
d  slvs   
h
bchs hich sld  m
h aa. Th sc
a
s csis
d 
h
s al m
ly alic-smlli m l
i
d. All  sm
i ciaills,
ad, i
h lashi ys aai
d
h cmmcm

h xci
i
sc
acl. Wi
hi
h cicl bl, ad si


h ds hich
admi

h b ll, s
d a bl lha
i
h l hi

s
s. A bih

d cl
h as
h acss his bac
, ad hil his small ys smd

 s vy, i
h a mild xssi,
h sc b him, h mlyd
his
im i ba
i  lavs  bad, hich, i
h
h aid  his

 
, h dsi
d saly i his h  bdy--a a
i hich h
md aa
ly i
h m ch calm jym
.
Th l  Majca had vid
ly v s a lha
b, ad
may 
hi sc la
is as

h a
 ad chaac
is
ics 

h aimal. O 

y y  ma, i
h a _bsi_, lac mi

s,
ad ih
-blac

sss, h as si

i x

 s, had b
vy
c sd 
is as
 hich as
h
 
ad hich
h
ail 
h
s
a ca
 a
hich sh l
d i
h ys lashi i
h d ad
c isi
y. A xci
d y
h cid 
dic
ly h sa i
, "Caamba!
hy,
h bas
has 


ails!"
Wh
h la cicl i
hi
h alls as illd i
h
h sayi
cd, ad hil
h b zz  xc
a
i h mmd a d,
h blas

 a
 m
as s ddly had, ad, i
h a l d ba,
h d
a
s l , ad i ca
d, i
h lashi
ail ad li y,

h havy m 
h b ll. F a mm
h as
d his c s, ad
l
d  d as i  a my, a

h sam
im ai
h  d
ima
i
ly. Alms
immdia
ly h ca h
sih

h s
a bas


h si
 sid 
h i, dssd i
h ha
d d cl
h, i
ly
m chi his lavs  bad. G
had  m
G
, ad ic as
xc
d
 b
h
  a. As ic
as lih
i
h lvlld hs

d, ad
h b ll  shd i  ll ca 
h lha
. Th
s
 l as sh
,  i
h scds
h b ll ll dad 
h
sad, icd cml
ly
h h
h chs

 his ha
, havi, i
h
 y  his s
, imald himsl 
h l sha
s
s  his
mih
y .
Th lha
,  si
h b ll 
, simly

his small ys
ixd  him, ad s
d im ad as
 his   a
illas 
ls, li
 sm s
 cas
l m hich his
s
s 
 dd li

sas. Th shc
 his m
i i
h
h b ll cam i
h a cash
ha

mad
h vy alls viba
 ssibly; ad a

h sh
b
a l

s 
h la

, hich had  m c
 his 

ha
a av  a c
,
h bdy 
h assaila
as h ld bac
, icd
by
hs midabl as  c i
h hich a
 has dd

h lha
. A
 b di m
h c i
h hich h as h ld
bac
,
h b ll lld v ad s

ld i a bad la
  bld.
_Bav, la
!_ as
h sh
hich s 
h sias
ically m a

h sad
ha
s
 ca
la

h lha

h vic
y hich
h had b
aid. Tha
ac l b
midabl aimal, mid l

hi ala s, s md
h a
i i hich h had b
i
 
d, alyi himsl aai

h cs m
i  his lavs as
ccdly as i h had mly
c
d  sm
 blsm ly.

Fm
his assa  ams
h m s s

h ad ih

h
a
s
bas
 ca
i c ld i a mm
b discd. S imly,
s s
adily did h mai
ai his si
i
ha
h scacly mvd as
h
b ll, vas
i his  
is,
h himsl  his 
i
h
all
h im
s i
h hich a ad  y c ld isi him. Th am 

 x
i hich
h lha
xdd i
h aai aad

h
l
s
 b d lly small. I alld
h a dy m ls, ad, as

hy hld aily  d,
h i h
a

hi hls as adj s
d,
ad
h y cacas as i a is
a
s
aay m
h aa.
A
h b ll as
h admi

d. A
 a a s h civd his

, ad, i
h
h blid a  his a
,  shd  i sly a

him. A cl d  d s
s i
h ai a

h lac h
h
 bas
s
m
, ad a l d blli as had
 iss  m i
. A s
 l, as
 ia
s, c
i d  a  scds. Wh, a
las
,
h sc
a
s
s ccdd i civi ha
had
a
 lac, i
as s
ha

h
s


h lha
had 
d i

h y 
h b ll, ad had bcm
ixd  a mm
i
h s
ll. Th a 
h maddd bas
as
a l
 bhld as h lld ad ll. Lai m
h  d h
dashd his
 -
vil
ly aais

h lha
's had,
b

h had s bs
ac  his s
ll maid ij d. Th sc as,
i ac
, s hid--
h h 's az as

ixd  i
as by a
sll--
ha
i
ill 
admi
 mi
 dsci
i.
I
as a li h
h a l c
s
as b h

 a d. O
bl 
h lha
's 
, hich dscdd i
h a l d
h d, ba

i
h chs

h ma
yd b ll; ad, as
h aisd b
 ld
sbbi
 a
h, his m s my dd  him i a
li
s
 ad simly c shd him
 da
h. A
h vic
y! _Bav,
la
!_ as aai sh
d i
h m 
h siasm
ha b. Fsh
sad as
h 
h bldy aa, ad
h s vivi ms
,
h 
sav by a  lih
lsh  ds h ad
h, s
d c
aai lmily asid, sii his bscis slly
 ad , 
bli 
h sad i
 li

l ddis as h i
ly sml
i
h i

al
h  d. N
i
hs
adi
h hs 
h sc
acl 
hav, as y
, ly a
ially dscibd,
h accssis  ally
billia
. Cds  ba
i l ladis ala dd
h s ccss l
cmba
a
. Fas  avi i all dic
is, ad
h dazzli ays 

h s   lc
d by lashi jls ad la hi ys.
Whil
h h bb b  xci
d vics mild i
h
h cis 
a
-slls, a
h blas

h
 m
ald 
, ad, i a
mm
, a ia
ic b ll  shd acss
h i. As i dscyi by
is
ic

h ds
y  his cmais, h dashd im
 sly 

h lha
, i
h s ch blid ci
y
ha
hs ad
s
s 
is
a
a sly lc
d

h. Th
 bas
s sayd
 ad  i

h c
 
h aa. Th b ll, ma
i a vil


 
himsl, l d s ddly ads, ad
h i
 his h 
d

h l ja  his my. This as, aa
ly,
h is

im
ha


h lha
had xicd ay ssa
i  ai, his vi s  ds
havi b b
sca
chs, ad disadd i
h ha
 cmba
. B


h  y 
h m s aimal smd  lly a sd, ad, ivi

h m his
ssi s
a
 m
i s d, ic, ild, ad
ici, h sh

h b ll ad


d d sly  d
h i.
Th a
i b ll, al
h h bld by x
i ad di  m
a a
ash i his chs
, s
d s
ill i
h
lichi i
h a
h

h lha
as h aachd him, b

i d his l hs

civ
h a

ac
. B
i
as s
ha

h small ys 
h lha

lamd i
h a d ad da s lih
m ba
h
h bad bald
b, ad, i a mm
,
h l bscis, li
 a i
hi s
,
as ldd  d
h c
ad had 
h b ll, dai him d
i
h a cash 
h bldy sad. Th ia
ic b

h ll 
his
s,  ll 
h 
d sid  his s
a
 , h as
ac
ally c shd
 da
h. Whil
h ibs  s
ill had cac
i
d
h ih

h lha
,
h a 
h h ma m l
i
d
mild a lly i
h
h vic
i s
 m
i 
h v l
ms
.
*

Th lli mi  s
a
d a
da s
aih
acss
h islad


h
  A
, si
a
d 
h as
 cas
, 
y-iv mils
m Palma. W  accmaid by a  id, h had i
h him a
s ly  bl -lih
s, ma-cadls, ad 
h cmb s
ibls, i
h
hich
h am s s
alac
i
 cavs  A

 b li
   
a
iica
i. W hid a li

l  caia ad a c l  small,
iy hss, hich caid s v
h ll-mad ad i
h csidabl
alaci
y.
I
h a
  achd Maac, hich, x


las

 i Majca, havi a  la
i  ab
vy cla
, a
h lai i aaac, m
hi
ash. I x
al asc
i
is a css b

Oi
al, b
, 
his, is ma
abl  
hi

Palma, is
h

12,600. I
is a

h libal s 

h Saish ad
i a
ic la.

La
 a
ih
 aivd a

h li

l
  A
, ad jl
d v

h a
h d la
i avm
 i
s s

s. Th ssa
i as by
 mas aabl,
h h, 
a
ly, i
as  sh
d a
i,
ad,
h, as
la
d i
h a
 a
ic. W sl
a

h
smalls
ad ms
imi
iv  _sadas_ imaiabl! Th s
yl 
achi
c
 i
 ld b imssibl
 d
mi,
h h
h b ildi
as vy siml i s
 c
. I
csis
d  a ha  bic
s, m
a,
did m d, hi
ash, ad a bad 
, i
h li

l hls scd i

h diic, hli
 m
h aa
m
s. Th s ly  sh ai
as 
s dici
as s al;  i
h sli-ms id-ams
 aa
ly add as s l  s l x is.
A
 a  al mal,  a

m
d
 jy a li

l sl mb; b
i

vd
 b  ally  al i am 
ad ali
y. As aly as i
as
ssibl  cc
s
 av  ach 
h i
h
hi shill sss,

h as a c
cc
 cc
-ci a d
h h s, ad, 
bliv, 
h
  i

. Th i
hlical 

aim
ba
ad as

 i
h a
sii

il    id
c
d a
  d

 
h h
h vy cssay cmy  calli s. I
is
 
  s sd
 b jyi   s i a _sada_,  "lac 
s," b

h iss
ha
cmmcd i
h
h is
da  mi
 s  m s ad s l d as c
ally
 m d sl.
W s
a
d i
h aly mi, a
 a shi ba
as
 d
m d, calld chcla
, sm blac
bad, ad  b

. A
 al
i
acss sh aii lads,  i
h s
i c, ad v sady

ac
s i
ssd i
h als ad
h ivsal liv,  ba

ascd
h s
 a
hay a

h 

h m 
ais cvd i
h da

i
s, da a

, ad ab
s, hich ld

h m
h 
h cav.
Th cav is h 
 a vas
mass  lims
,  hich
h hills i

his ihb hd a cmsd. W
ild ads, lli
h s
s
    id, h, as ll as a li

l by hm h had ssd i
 his
svic by
h ay, as lad i
h a c
a
 
-is, bl 

lih
s, ad 
h cmb s
ibls.

B s as a maiic
a
al ach,
h va l
d   hich
s

h hih
 a h dd ad 
y 
. By
his vs
ib l 
a
  aachd
h da
i allis
lld i
h c
,
ad ladi

hs mys
i s cavs hich ccald s m ch
ha

as ba
i l i
h d bls 
h m 
ais. As  advacd,

h bsc i
y dd, ad  had
 lih
 
chs. Hai

l
bac
,  civd
h bih
achay  lih
a

h 
ac
dimiishd i
 a l mi s sc
i
h dis
ac. U achi a lvl
sac, a

h 
 a  d h s
aicas,   d  slvs i
h
middl  a sldid hall  va l
d chamb, i hich
h c
ai
lam 
h
ch ll ai
ly 
all c
h bjc
s, aa
ly
hi
,
h h a
h dim i h , s
adi a
i
vals. Wi
h
ay
x
avaa
xcis 
h imaia
i,  mih
hav ic
d

himsl
his chamb as
h Pi
 Ach, ad
hs a 
shas
as
h 
iid ms 
hs dmd
 imism
i i
s lmy
csss.
Th a
illas hich ad
his bl hall a calca s dsi
s,
md by
h vlas
i dis m
h cla
d  abv.
W ic
d   ay  
h dads v a d s
aicas, i
h
h
a
al  isi v s i
 ach a
 ach  a
ba
y, b

i la m. Th  id, accmaid by
h by mvi  i 

i
h blazi
chs, l
d li
 sm dm i
h his a

da
im
l i s sll-b d i
 sm vas
ad a
al labyi
h. O a

hall i hich   d  slvs as bl ad ad i aaac.
I
h middl 
h lm lmd masss  

d hi
 s
alac
i
,
isi ad i sial ms, hil sm
all, sld bjc
s
aad li

h ac l s
ms  alm-
s cad i
h a
hy
l ma. Ths  md by
h illas, as
hy jid
h ,
bi  shd bac
ads ad sad 
li
 b hs  di lia.
I a
h chamb calld
h Hall 
h ii, a mavll s c

as d cd. I
h middl 
h saci s ccav  dimly civd
sm l
y bjc
 a y ad mis
y h . "Mm
," said
h  id,
"d'
mv;" ad i a
h is
a
a bl  lih
as
idld. N
ds ca dscib
h c

ha
as is
a
a sly d cd. Th
alls sh li
 cys
al  dazzli billiacy. Th  as li

a imam
ablaz i
h a milli s
as. Th  m s cl ms
ha

s 
d i
 add i
h a  si  ili 
hich had
sm smblac
 G
hic
acy. A l
y mabl-li
 ds
al,
aa
ly s 
i a ac l mal i  hich, amids
may
lds  a zy day 
h ms
billia
hi
ss as cassi
a sli ia
, cmsd a   a
c ba
i l, majs
ic, ad
s.
I
h Hall 
h Oa
h is a a
 mb  aiy hi

illa
s cllc
d i a mass, hich i
h lm a
al

hs
s b
aa halls hav sm smblac

h is  a a.
Wadi ab
i assas
ha
aad alms
li
 aisls i
a
's
ml,  a
icia
d vy mm
a b s
 mys
i s
mldy i hamy i
h
h d l chaac
  a lac s aly
s by h ma y.
Th am 
h Hall 
h C 
ai is s ici
ly s s
iv  ha

is
 b s i
h chamb s dsia
d. A all  dazzli hi

s
 is  s ch aiy
x

ha
i
sms i
h i
 l la 

h
chs
 b div bac
ads ad ads by
h id. S, i

h Hall 
h Bas, a la aas
 b di m i
s s
a

ad ccasially avi i
h bz. W

 i
is ly a dl si,
b

h mm
i
is d lly li
 ali
y. As  lld  
 id i
hs a l cavs by s
aiay ad cid,
h h hall ad
ally,  c ld alms
imai
ha
  aci
h c 
s 
sm b id alac  sm l-

 Ti
a ac.
I a maiic
va l
calld
h Hall 
h Tha
,
h
is 
bxs ad s  bchs hav a s
a
li smblac
 ali
y. Had
sc
a
s  ally hs
ly i aaac dd i  by , 
 shd ad i a mb,  c ld scacly hav b m amazd. Th
sc
csss  a
,
h 
s  ivalld ba
y hich i

has d cd i
hs d csss, a
 ly mavll s byd all
cc
i.
As  al
d ab

h cavs   cs
a
ly
id i   a
h
by ha
smd
 b i mabl 
iid as c
i
 halvs,
ad adhi

h  d. O isc
i
hs
d 

 b
s
alami
s i mby, ca la
is 
h lim-dis m
h
, m hich
h a
 had 
vaa
d. Thy a 
h
bih
s
a cl , a h  hich is d 

h sc  i i
sl
i. By
h  id
hy  calld "achd s."
W bad all

hs alms  sld  i
h lis  sh ld
vaily a

m

 di. Am
h may bjc
s  i
s
 hav
visi
d i di
lads,  v sa ay
hi
ha
mad a d
imssi    mids
ha
hs sil
allis. Ev
h
h h


ha
s     c 
ym had v visi
d,  v had 
hm,

dd
 ma
 s xl
hm i
h m
ha s al i
s
. Th
cllc
i 
h ds  a
 hidd m all
h ld d i

h cavs  A

hi ca ac m   mids,
h h bably i

may v b   
 aai
 visi

hm.
W had b advisd
 visi

h cavs _ s  ad a sam_, b
had
aid li

l a


i

h c sls 
h lcal admi. W had
lis
d

hm as
h
avll ds

h xaa
d acc 
s

h cavs  S
y  Fial iv by
h a
ivs. Wh
h cavs
 A
, hv, b s
   visi,
hi ad  ad vl
y
 s s
a
li
ha
  vhlmd i
h as
ishm
ad a.
Wh
h a s may l a a
  ssa
is,   ld
as
, hy, i
h am  all
ha
is ba
i l,  , ad majs
ic, d

hy 

 Majca as ll as
 Hmb ? Accss

h islad is
asy  h. Th a
 lis  s
amba
s
 ad -- m
alcia,
h 
h m Bacla. Th ihabi
a
s a civil ad
hsi
abl
 a d. Th h
ls, i
his sc
li

hs 
Sai, a b
h cla ad cm
abl. Th scy, as  hav sh,
is s maiic

ha
i
ca
b s assd i E , ad
h a
sval lacs i
h islad  a
his
ical i
s
.
FOOTNOTE:
[34] Cidas d
s.
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER X.
CONSIDERATIONS ON SANITARY MATTERS.--THE MEDICAL PROFESSION IN
SPAIN.--THE ART OF PACKING.--NIGHT SIGNALS.--EL GRAO.--CHASSE
AUX CALEONS ROUGES.--ALENCIA.--DRIE THROUGH THE CITY.--THE
CATHEDRAL.
Th h
Sai, as  hav bsvd, ad as all
avlls ill

ic h
hy visi

ha
c 
y, i mabl vil d s vail
vyh ad a  
h ms
lasa
chaac
is
ics 
h
c 
y. This,

h i
h a al iac  calssss  all
h shld daii,  c s vs  
h ms
 i
 l ca ss 

h chla hich idically ca
s s ch a l avas
h h


h lad. I
is i
 c i s h call s a Saiad aas i
h
mids

h ms
ih
 l d s
ha
ca b imaid. Whil  ca
scacly ba
h, bi cmlld
 hld   ss i s ch a ay

ha
 a alms
s ca
d,
h diiid Saiad mvs al as
s ad 
 bld as i h  amids

h s-ads  "G l i
h blm." I ac
, h sms a
h
 li
 d s
ha

 
hs a
is 
abl. I his ii cicidd i
h
ha
 sm mdical m,
h csid bad smlls d  hal
h, h c ld 
d 
hm i
h
a
  aimi
y.
Majca is cmaa
ivly  m
his s
, al
h h
h sai
ay
aam
s  Palma a s
ill vy imi
iv. T yas a, chla
ad  i sly i
h ci
y, ad  may 
h ds 
h h ss
ad alacs  s
ill ss 
ics hich  i

 i chal
a

h

im, 
h dad-ca

 ai
 a lad as i
assd
h h
h
s

s--xac
ly as i Ld d i
h la 
 h dd yas
a. O
h i ld day 
h alac bli
 a Elish

lma--a s
-ca
ai i
h Bi
ish avy--
 hm   m ch
idb
d  a

idss ad hsi
ali
y
dd
 s d i  
sj  a
Palma,--  d
h lli isci
i sca
chd i
chal
:--"M 
s: J a. Lz. Fa s
ia."
May yas a, i d
 c
h Saish dc
s
 b m
assid  s i
h s
dy 
hi ssi, i
as dd by
Gvm

ha

h d 
h h s  a mdical ma
h sh ld
b
acd as may d ma
s  csss as
h  mb  a
i
s h
did d his
a
m
. A v s Elishma aivi i Madid
bcam idissd, ad s
his sva

 xl
h hl ci
y i
s
 a dc
 h, havi
h s
d ma
s chal
d  his
d, m s
cs 
ly hav--as h ccl dd--
h s
da
hs

as . A mdical 
lma as
h s discvd hs sidc
as dis
i ishd by ly  ma
, ad him
h Elishma immdia
ly

aid. Th ivalid ca
la
i himsl b sm ids 
ha
h csidd a "
as 
v,"
hy clasd
hi hads, ad
xclaimd--"Dis! Wha
hav y d? Y hav chs
h s
dc

i Sai! H v had b
 a
i
i his li, ad h did d
him!"
I
is as
ishi
h h  sh ai 

aid by Saiads. O
 blazi day--
h day b   da
 m Palma--hil  
di
h ais  ac
i   
ma
a , a ld lady  shd
vil
ly i
   bdm i
h
"i
h y  lav,"  "by y 
lav," ad, hil ivi

ac
 a

 ich
s ds,
xssiv i
h  ms
ac  s
m
, slammd

h
h
id-ams,
h a
s
axi
y bi a

h sam
im dic
d 
h c 
ac, ad h ys l
i a
s i
h a lac hich smd


 say "A y

mad?"

Pac
i is a a
a
i
 as m ch s as
h cmhsi 
Badsha. I   ii
h a
 ac
i, Badsha, cavi, ad
mas sh ld b
a h
a
all schls as dis
ic
bachs 
d ca
i, i d
 d a ma ha
Ms. Mala  ld hav
calld a "Admial Cich
." I
is vy c i s
ha
a
vy lac
 lavs  ids
ha

h 
ma
a hlds lss
ha v, ad
has bcm small i si
  havi ally l
sm
hi bhid
a

h las
lac, 
il, i vy dsai,  simly ss vy bad
la a,
a
s  all
h
his, ad lis
hm _ mass_ i

h

 
; ad
h, havi dacd a li

l a-dac 
h lid, si
s
mdily d 
h sam li
 a sii Bash  a all, ad
sm
s a ciaill,  ma
s 's 
s.
Wha
a blssi hav
hs m ls
i
hs clims h ba
h 
,
i
h d
hy sim! Th ba
hi is c
a
Palma, i
ha
d-h

clima
 ad da
bl  sa. Th a
 is am, ad
 d simms, as
b ya
as a a
h-bd, i
h
h adva
a  havi  las;
h h
has,  ad
h, s
hy say, i
h
h li

l icvic 
a s
ay sha

. Th l
h 
im  may mai i
h a

i
h
xici ay chill, is ma
abl. O ca, i ac
, li 
his bac
, i
h ac 
d

h s
bl  s
is ad alms


sl. Idd,
h as
ishi
hi sms
 b h ay ca si
i

his havy mdi m. I
is s
asa
a

h 
ac 
h Bay 
Palma,
ha
, d i a calm, ds ca b dis
ic
ly s a

h d
h
 
y a
hms, avi a

h b

m am
h s
s ad shlls.
I
h Middl As, Majca s d m ch m
h iads 
h
Babay ia
s. Ev 
h ld c s
m is

  lih
i
bacs vy ih
all  d
h islad. As s as  is li
,

h x
lls 
il
h 
i cicl dislay
hi sials. All
mai lih
d  h  a

h las
has b
immd, ad a
h
x
i ishd
 sh
ha

h islad is i c
sc i
y.
W  sy h
h
im    da
 m Majca aivd. As
 l
i
s shs,  l
d bac
i
h 

h bih
villas
s
li ams

h a vs ad liv lads. W l
sad h

h 

y ci
y  Palma, i
h i
s
s,
acs, ad ca
hdal,
as hidd  v by a jc
i hadlad. O  az lid i
h
a mlachly li 
h Ga
Daa Rc
, i
h i
s lami
bac--
h s
ms
i
 Majca--ad 
hs m 
ai a
s
i
h hich  had bcm s amilia, as
hy ml
d aay i

h am
haz 
h Mdi
aa.
"O
h id as
  a
s as  livi
hi,
Sav
h vaishi lam 
h sa-bid's hi
 i."
Ad
h Evi S
a l
d d 
h av li

h y 
h
mai's  adia al. Th ih
as calm ad balmy, scac a ba
h
dis
bd
h s ac 
h a
s, ad ad i a alcia
_ma
a_,  lay d
 s
d
h cla imam
, ad  l lld

 sl by
h Aabic d 
h ma a

h hl.
Th aly ays 
h da as  a
  lyi am 
h hi

alls  a lac i
h hich   amilia,
h 
 El Ga, ad
lih
i 
h dis
a

s ad sis  alcia. El Ga, i
h
i
s la
-d as
 h ss, ad i
s l li  hi
 m
i
h
bl  sa bl,

h i
h
h l
y la
 sails  i
s shii,
ad
h alm-
s ii
h cas
, mih
hav b, as a as

aaac 
, sm Syia 
.

I as aai cmlld
 ic 
h i
y ad c
m

h d
Saiads by 

i i
 a ba

 d a li

l a
a
i b
ladi. I xci
d
hi as
ishm
, i 
a
h, by climbi 


h a
 
h sid  a vssl a
ach, 
h  s 
a
i
a had m i
s bsi
. O
h s dd aaac  my a
d m
ad d _cals_ 
h dc
,
h mais a
c cam

h
ccl si
ha
I as i
h a maiac  a Elishma, a ida hich
mbldd
hm s m ch
ha

hy chasd m m  d 
h shi


h 
h,

i l d cis. Th _chass a x cals  s_,
hv, s cam
 a d;   aivi a

h i -had 

h vssl, I simly disaad, had ms
, vbad,

h
dis isd amazm
 my  s s. O isi

h s ac I sa
sv m, ad a mai i
h ixd bay
, s
ai d mbly a
m v

h b la
s. "Addis, Ss," cid I, ad sam 
 my id i

h ba
, h als had b s
i li
 a dlhi i
h d hil

a
i his ba
h.
I alcia cs' mil
is as a
a l x y as i-b i Y ca
a.
Th mil
 a
s ad mas is
h s
al cmmdi
y--
ha
 cs, h
i
is
 b c d, bi adv
isd ab

h
  lacads a

a havy ic

m

h ich, i
h sam ma as  ss a
is a cd i Ld. I ac
,

h cmm hd  m
als,
Sai is 
a lad li i
h mil
ad b

. Oil, hv, is
ivsal, bi  d i ca
s, i as
y, i s , i ac
i vy
dish, b
ayi i
s sc v i
h vy ai i
sl.
Ams

h  ls  
i 

 i v  i
h
h l classs i
Sai, is
h c s
m  i y a m
h l  ha
v
hy may b
a
i hil y a hldi i
c s i
h
hm. W a hay

add, hv,
ha
i
is  ally
h c s
m
  s. I
is bad  h

 hav
 as
ish   as  dis
i by a
i all
h s
a
cm ds  d a
a
_la msa dda_,  _
abl d'h
_, i
h
h
ls  Sai. Wha
a dm m s
i
b  a mmb 
h Rm Cl b


avl  a  
s i
h Pis la! Th vy ida  ld ma

Sy
 i ay i his
mb i
ha
c 
y hs s
mach h l

his a
iv lad   s
 bi
.
A
 ladi a
El Ga m   sim,  aai j md i

h
"
aa
aa," ad c m  b mi
h h
h d s
, s
s, ad

s 
ha
idic l sly bad ad d
h acacias,
ads
h
s
-h s h
l, h  s sd
h -yd bas  ld b
aai
i s, 
ly 
h s
ais, b
a

h vy ds   
bdms. O  

h h
h  av , as

h ba

alis 
d-ld, hi
-cad sldiy, dilli 
h bili sad ad
d a v
ical s . W cssd
h yll bid 
h G adalavia,
i
h
h s
a
s  vii ad sai
i
h
i ha
s 
hi mabl
bs. Aai   i
h mids

h l, da
, cl s

s,
i hich s dd
h clai  ch ch blls, ad l
i  a

h ss bhid
h cl d ais ad blids  hich da
, la hi,
ic
d ys lam li

hs  sa
s m
h bsc i
y i
hi
h
hal-c 
aid ids. W d ic
ly as

h aabs  b ildis,

h ich G
hic ch chs,
h sc l
d alacs, ad
h Mish
c 
s,
h h
h a dy, isy ma

-lac, i
h i
s s
ii cd,
i ab as bih
ad vai s as
ha
 a hal iad, ad 
i


h blazi hi
 s as ad s y ads, 
il
h cl dim va l


h ld ca
hdal c m h  v s li
 a y cl d  s
.
I
h i
i 
h ca
hdal a h 
h s s ad hs-bi



h Cid. Wh alcia as c d m
h M,
hs ics 
 s
y i  lacd
h by
h h's had h dds  yas a,
ad mai
ill  as i
sss  his imm
al chivaly. H did i
alcia i 1099.
Wi
hi
h ld ca
hdal a bl classic achs cmsd  a ad
vai s mabls. L
y Ci
hia cl ms s 
maiic
dms,
m
h cl d ids  hich
h s -ays s
am 
h
c li sm
  ics hich, isi i cicli cl ds, ad ally
disaas i
h imms achd va l
abv. Th chi, s ichly
add i
h cavd a
, is illd i
h cims-clad is
s, a

dd
by da
-yd bys sii silv css, ad bai al
a

lami cadls. Bsids
h dislay  d l cavi ad ildi,

h a baz ailis 
h is

mashi, a m l
i
d 
ms  dazzli bih
ss, ad i s 
h ii M
h ad
Chis
aayd i bs  xamld maiicc--al

h s ch a
dislay  cclsias
ical al
h as is s h b
i Sai i

hs md days. O
h alls a 
ai
s  sai
s ad ai
is
 scs m sacd his
y, ms

hm, i 
all, 
s  a

val .
I s
a c
as


h al
h 
h ch ch a
h cds 
bas cali i a 

abl s
a
 al
h mabl avm
s, 
hich all s
s   l abmia
i a alld
 li  days. I
h
mids

his cclsias
ical sld ,
h al
as a scially
 b

d 
h al
h
ha
has b xdd 
hm, ad 
h ba
y

hi dsi. B
m
hs 


h achs ad illas 
s
 hich cay s bac


ha
m
 a, da
d by as, h

h ch ch as  dd. Th a
 is vid
ly a bl is
 m
,
as  ca j d by
h i
s hich i
mi
s hil accmayi

h m
 s cha 

h is
s. Th ich cl d lass 
h
ids ivs s ch vai
y

h h  
h lih
hich i
admi
s, as

 add vy m ch

h slm imssi d cd by s maiic
a

ml.
W climbd 

h s mmi

h ca
hdal
, a
i i
h
h
ai ad d s
, ad amids

hs s  lasa
d s hich sm

 b a _si _ i
h all
h i
is  Saish ad I
alia
ch chs, 
xc
i
h
s. I
hs a
h d s  sac
i
y
 hich  ha s m ch,
hy a c
aily a m aabl.
Aivd 
h s mmi

h ld l
y yll bly, m hich a
ba
i l y  ma had
h hsl  lv a 
b, a vi
 aiy ba
y as sad 
b s. Ba
h lay
h ci
y i
h
all i
s dms,
s, ad iacls, i
s a
as
ic achi
c
, i
s
lmy Mish a
ays, ad i
s ils  Saacic  i
i i
mlachly ad , li
 hs
s  da
d , amids

h dall
 all
hi id.
Th lay
h  ads, lami i
h mabl  
ais ad
s
a
s. Th h ss a  vy h . Nbl masis a lc
d all
v i
h hi
 lac-li
 aabs  dca
is. Saci s s as ad

mi ma

-lac a s amid
h c si 
h labyi
hi
s

s, dd smb ad cl by
hi vhai avs, alms

aa
ly
 chi ach 
h, ad
h s shadi
h idi ay bl
m
h b i ays 
h s . Aay i
h dis
ac, all a d
h
yll alls 
h ci
y, a  i
 l lais, i
h h ad
h
masss  d  lia s
a
d i
h
h y 
h liv. Fm

h, s
, ad s
h, a bl amhi
ha
   li m 
ais
s  ds
h ci
y. I all dic
is a vs, i
h
hi ld
b d, ad sh bs  a dy h , iv a ich aaac

h lad.

Th sldid chs

ad
h
all alm-
 av
hi bachs,
ad by
h am ad sc
d ai. Sa
li villas, sld sis,
ad s y villas, sca

d a ad a, a shii i
h mids


h  ad smili lai, hil aa , bih
, bad, bl ,
ad ba
i l, aas
h h shd ad
mbli sa. T ly h is
a bl vi
 b s
ha
ha
a d alcia,
h ais

Mdi
aa ci
is.
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER XI.
DEPARTURE FROM ALENCIA.--A RAILWAY JOURNEY.--DIFFICULTIES TO
WHICH TRAELLERS ARE EXPOSED.--TARRAGONA.--SKETCHES OF ITS
HISTORY.--ARRIAL AT BARCELONA.
W da
d m alcia, 

i
 i
s s a ci
y h

h as s m ch
ha
as a

ac
iv. Th
ai mvd , ad a

 had cdd a sh
dis
ac
h ih
cam . O  a
i
s
bi shad by l as
ad
h sa ai,  i id 
h  ad
a
hich s
a
i
h asss  ld dscd
 di. Bi
ld
a
Cas
ll,  la
bac

h c shis, smili a
ach 
h
i
h
ha
bvl
xssi  c 
ac hich
h sc


h shm

h i ma d cs 
h 
--a s

a
iicial d-a
, i ac
. S ic
l, hv, is
h m
al
cs
i

i  ma, s vasc
vy
hi a
aii
 h ma
a
,
ha
i ab
a h  m
h hay mm
j s
cdd
  si

i i x
m ad si
 cs 
h caia,
addssi _s
acca
_ ma
s
 ach 
h, hich, al
h h i
dd

 b al, ad
 cay i
h
hm all
h _s avi
 i md_
 id by
h cv
ialisms  d sci
y,  a

h sam

im ma
abl 
h
asacy 
hi
. Ad
h h i  
cd c

 ach 
h  had b c
mdls  
ad li
ss,

h ma ad
 
h cvsa
i bcam smh ai lly civil,


 say a
h v s ad lasa
, li

ha

 ss
h, havi a
l
h, as
hy
hi
,  d ach 
h 
, ad
a

  s
did hih-li
 sv, 
mixd i
h a cmlac

csci sss 
hi  s ii
y. Ad hy all
his? Wh

his s dd s
am
b

 d ha
s? Th as is simly
S
mach, ad 
hi m;  i
is
yi, vy
yi, a
 
has b ass d
ha
di ai
s a
a c
ai s
a
i,
 id 
aivi
h, mad i
h h ,
ha
 ad a
 aa
i has b
mad  y , ad,  as
i 
h _b 
_,
 b dic
d
 a
asy bad i
h  ai, bhid sm d alis, sidd
v by a di
y ld ma i
h
 sa cs b him  ll  sails, a
la
  mis, ad a cllc
i  li

l ca
s mad i
h acid il
is
ad  b

, hich cdim
s  hav
 cl
ch a

h h
h
ailis li
 m
ys i a ca,
h ly lih
bi
h ill mia
i
add by a a
hi cadl. W say i
is vy diic l
d s ch
cic ms
acs
 avid
h dislay  a li

l ill-a
.
Th ailay m alcia, i smh i
h dic
i 
Bacla, is a misabl mc
y  civilisa
i. Th i   ld
imai as ab
iv-hs , by
h ac a
hich i

; ad

i
had
 s
 vy iv  six mils
  i
s s ly  a
.
T all aaac i
as simly a ld bil,  ishd i a h y
i
h a  mchaical i
s
is. N

h las
 i
s vils as
ha

i
mi

d a s
il
ial blac
 m. Th m
i 
h
ai had a
c

h asss sm
hi aal s,  sh ld
hi
,


ha
 bi
ssd i a bla

.
A
a day b
-d villa calld Amla, a
lv a
ih
,
i i
ch da
ss ad dizzli ai,
h Bacla ailay cam

a d. W  a sd m a vish s
 sl by
h lih

a s
 la

d  ll    acs. Havi d bld, ad
s

chd  slvs 
m a s
 a

b
-jac
si
i,
  has
ily ac
d 
ih
ly, li
 is i a d m, i
h a
s -cl d 
lma, ad s
d aay i
hi
h aa
csss

h _c _  ha
as cid
ly s sd by
h mis idd
a
ivs 
hs is
 b a _dilic_. Wi
h   hads
 chi

h cili 
h _c _, ad
s 
 di
h h
h 

ids, hil   l a, bxs, acls, ad cla
s 
h 

h
  s, as i
hy had b had
h i
h a i
ch-
, 
 d  slvs, i
d scacly b ma
d, i a vy cm
abl
si
i. I
as 
l b a cllisi

lac b

s ad
h Mish-l
i 
lma,   cmai, hs chi
chaac
is
ics aad
 b a  s ab s  s , chad
cl
hs, a ashd s
i, ad a al y. H said h as ll, ad
had b
ld
 avid sh ai. Th Al-Saxs said
hy als 
ll, b
as a al 
h xy i
h a
msh as csidd
bicial
 hal
h,
hy had b advisd
 avail
hmslvs 

h sh ai as m ch as ssibl. W  ssd s
ih
ly i

  sa
s,
ha
 l
d li
 ls i a ivy b sh, xc

ha

hs
l c
i bids aly hav sval h ddih
s  l a ild

hi bdis, s as
 lav ly
hi hads visibl isid a
Saish _dilic_. W d 
s s i
h
ha

h ls, hich
a ally csidd a
ial

h sh ih
ai,  ld m ch
li

avlli i
h a 
lma h d
 b cd  d i
his j ys i a xha s
d civ. W  ac
ally ac
d li

svd sa
s i a bal, ad
h M, h had  mbld 
il h
c ld  mbl  m, as sizd i
h a vil
i
 shivi ad
szi, hich 
h hl as vy cdi
ably layd by him, ad
mih
hav s
ablishd  him a scd-a
 
i
y i l cmdy a

a mi
ha
. H ca h
hld  all
h  s ad cla
s h c ld lay
hads , ad,

ly calss 
h i
shi 
h sam,
b il
a all
h b
 himsl ad
h dadly  ids 
  sid 
h _c _, ad s s bsidd i
 a s
 ay sl mb,
b
 by cs
a
s
s ad as.
O  s
a
d,
h ays 
h la
 
h 

h _dilic_
abv s s
ami ahad  a
am  ih
hi
 hss, ad i

h
da
ss byd. Th 
 cachm si

i  a bch immdia
ly
i 
 s, csidably blc
i 
h small ids. Ths

idivid als cac
d
hi his i a d l ma, 
il
hy
alms
layd
s
hi
h, ivi
  a

h sam
im
 a
l d 
 c i s hls. Havi
h s livd
hi lis,
hy
aai cac
d
hi l his v
hi hads, ma
i
h ih

hi
 hss dash aay amids
a al 
h li

l blls hich 
s sdd all  d
hm. O   shd a
a  i s ac
h h
h
da
ss, ad
h h
hic
cl ds  d s
, lli hi
ly ads

h h
h la 
h lam. W assd a s
ali cllc
i 
id ld
s, hich ddd li
 assi hs
s, ad disaad i

h lm. Wi
h
h alis
s
a
s  da, ild-l
i m 
ais,
da
ad dis
a
, as i all dic
is, ad a
c
s, dilaida
d

villas, ad m  l lais, d

d h ad
h by a sli
ay
i  i c
h ab, cam i
 i

h c s 
h lam. N
 s
 d a sha c, ad sa
h ih
hi
 hss c vi
 d a
 ach 
h, aa
ly a  i
h mis
y lih
, ad
h

 cachm, m ld  i
hi a
shay ca
s, si

i sid
by sid li
 a c l  b bas c

hi hid a
s.
W a

ld ad j mbld i
h a is li

ha
 a a
illy v
a a 
d bid, ild all v i
h s
a
blac
scaldi,
hil
h lih

h lam s
amd i bld-d s
a
s 
h da

li a
s ba
h. A    a
hly-l

i b ildis 
h
si
 sh
h cam i
 vi, hazy, idis
ic
, ad did;
ad a
 assi d a hih s
 ach,   d  slvs i a
l da
s

. O ach sid  ids i
h blac
blids, ad

h hs
ly alls, ad hih abv s, smd as i ab

 all
i  is, ad b y s i a mass  s
s ad  bbish. As  a

ld
 i
h a dai is, 
d
h al  a la diic
hich l
d li
 a m ldy 
ss  
h days. Fm
h  mb 
h ss a d s  m s
hav b assi
h h sm
  ci
y;
b
 si  li, h ma  aimal, sav  slvs, i
 dd 

h sli
d; ad ih
ad lliss id havily v all. W
a
l
h assd i
h a s ccssi  vil
j
s v a cazy,
lc
d-l
i dabid, ad
h h sm h  ama
s, ad
l

h ci
y bhid s, i
h i
s d blac
iv li  i
h
silc. W has
d a
a livly ac v b  lais, cicld
by jad i-li
 m 
ais, hich, a
is
lmi i
h dis
a

da, s civd s i

hi bsm. I a sh
sac 
im
h
jal  blls dimiishd, hil
h his xldd i
 a all
a
asia. Th divs  cachm climbd d m
hi ch, ad
i a mm
m  dscdd, ha
d, d s
y, aid, ad 
 l a


h misabl ba-li
 ailay s
a
i  Ams
a, h   d a
_
abl d'h
_ hich ad ba
h
h ih
 a dish  livs, a
la
  dissc
d cc
, sm salad, ad a b

l  i, ma
ably
_diai_, hich a shilli b

l  
m a Whi
chal
i-alac  ld hav 


h bl sh. Th  als sm jvial
viads i
h sha  il
hy li

l lb ls calld as, ad a 
s  labby
i-li
 v
abls 
i
ld als. T ly
avlls

 s s
a
his i
his c 
y,
 b mmbd,  c s,
am
h _csas d Esaa_.
H  
i
 a h
ailay bx, s
d i
h c shis, aa
ly
illd i
h il, m
h d 
hy mi

d, ad
h jd al a


h a
  ab
six mils a h . W 
ha
 l
 b ll cla

ha
dssi lac, Ams
a, ad sa
i
ly i
h caia,
damily ihali
h mi ai as  lidd al. Th s
as 
ad ally disaai m
h va l
 ih
,  ali i
h
advaci ly 
h cmi s . A  ld bads lamd acss
h
as
 hav, haldi
h s 's is

iss 
h mi  a 
day.
I a sh

im   cas
i al
h Mdi
aa a
s. N
 cssd a ail l
i d bid, ad s
hih v
h
avs hich 
ly b
 ba
h. Th a lvly vi  bl  c vi
shs i
h c
s ad lih
-h ss, ad 
h sm
h sa lc
d by

h hi
 sails   m s l ccas, b
 
h sih
. O  ad,
hv,
d s ddly aay m
h cas
, ad  cdd ilad

h h h
sady lais, ad ccasial chads  a, ci
,
ad maa
. G s  hi
 la
-d h ss lami i
h
s , i
h
h alm
s avi v
hm,  s i
chd ams

 ilds  l bamb, Idia c, ic, ad
bacc. Sm
ims
  a  h
  d-l
i m 
ais,
 dscy
h da

a
ad ab
s i
h hich
hy  cl
hd i all dic
is.
Taaa as
h x

  achd. Cls
 i
 sa a
als,
may  hich  s
i m
h sad ad c
-s
 bach, ad
m
h s
a
 masy 
h Csas. Th a

s,
h
hih ad
h l, hich a saa
d by a li  alls. Th
hih ci
y si
s majs
ic  a l
y c
 lims
, ad m a
hih
 ih
h dd 
l
s d 
h az  sa. Th h ss
a maily cmsd 
h  is  Rma alacs,--v
h siml
hm 
h a
iza is add i
h mabl izs,  hld by

is  Ci
hia cl ms;--ad 
h hi
 mabl las i
h
c 
s 
h Imial Ba
hs,
h si  bas
i i
h s .
Th clima
  Taaa is , as i
v as, mild ad ial,
ad
h s mm ha
is
md by
h cl bz 
h sa. S
sal bi s as i
s ai hld
 b,
ha

h Rma P
s alays
s
ablishd h
hi i
 a
s, ad Taaa bcam

h cai
al  Rma Sai. I
as iially clisd by
h
Ca
haiias, ad
h l  i
s y
h  lis
d
 sll

h amis 
h a
my  Rm. P bli s ad Ci s Scii,
hv, cc id
h ci
y, ad cmlld i

 s bmi


h Rma
say. Taaa, i
h a b
 Csa ad Pmy, dclad 

h la

, b
 his da
a
Phasalia, h mbly s bmi

d

h
c , ad J li s sidd i
hi i
s alls, calli
h ci
y "J lia
ic
ix." A  s
s Csa assd  i
 h, B.C. 26, ad
h  is

h alac h h dl
may s
ill b s s 
i sm ibl
bic
s  md Sai.
Taaa s
ads amids

h all sld   aci
Rm, hil
h
s
 m 
ais isi da
ly a d,
h h cmaa
ivly chalss

hmslvs, l
d 
h sc bl, hich, amid
h c
 a
mi, sa
s s l 
ly 
h c
ai
y  h ma a
ss.
W had j s
ca
la
d  slvs i havi 
id 
h
Mish-l
i 
lma h had b cs
a
ly aaid  ca
chi
cld m a  id bhid his all  ac
as i
h dilic,
h   av d i
h
h sci
y  a
h a
iv 
lma h
had alady ca h
cld, ad, li
 all his c 
ym, as
ibly
aaid  sh ai. As
h s  icasd i    id smd

 dcas i calic, ad cdd a
l
h
 cas his ls
i a sac
, a

h b

m  hich as a h
b

l. Wh   s
aachd
h ids h  s
d
ha

hy mih
b

ll
clsd, i d "
 sv   a
msh;" b

a
ly
 c ld hi
  xdi
by hich  mih
"sv _ _
a
msh" i
h
ds
yi his a

h sam
im, ad s
h 
al
_ s
i vxa
a_  sh ai had
 b a d c m.
Th  ac isi
i as a
is
vy
aci
. As
h day, hv,
bcam c
ly bili, ad
h h
b

l ba
 d i
s 
,
h smd
 sh sis 
hai a li

l, ad sm 
h idas

ha
had b ic-lc
d i
hi his mid d i
h ih
ba

dibbl 
b
h am
h  day. H, hv,
 as li

l 
Elish as   Saish. F xaml, i xlaii
ha

h h

ih
-
avlli a a
b,   as
ishd
 ha him say

ha
--"Z vya i z c
s as 'a a
mal i.'" H had, 
c s,  sm ccasi l
d 
i
h dic
iay  "b," ad

i
 "ba" by mis
a
, had  d
h xlaa
i, "Ba--mal
i," a ic  ima
i hich h had dly chishd i his mid
v sic,
 dislay a

h is

i
y, as a   his
li is
ical ac im
s.

A
 a ay
im, as  a

ld al
h i ay--
h

_cail_, as
hy call
h ailad i Sai--
h hi

 
Bacla ba
 cm i
 vi, i
h i
s hadsm 
lyi villas
ad i
s b sy ma ac
is, all li i
h bih
s , i
h
mids
  i
 l livs ad ia
ic als. Wh  had achd
h
S
a
i,
h v-a
 l _ad a_ as
h
 lcm s i his 
c lia ay. A smil, a j
,
h   a cia

, ad
h
i
l
 _S_

h di
y  c
iay, d cd
h s al sa
isac
y
c
s, ad   dismissd i
h a li
 sal
 b v
h
Isc
 aivd. Wi
h

h lss  a mm
's
im,   sa
d

h
ibad  a mib s, hich immdia
ly ba
 d i
s
ay
h h
h 

y b lvads 
h ci
y, ad amids

h ay
h ss la 
i i
h bih
blids ad ais, hich l
d  a
ba
i l d bl li  la
s mi a a
 l av  i
h
mids
.
Th Fda d las C a
 Nacis is a chami h
l i vy sc
,
has
h bs
i Sai. Sval    c 
ym had
a
 
hi
a
s h b s, ad, accdi
 c s
m, had mad
hmslvs
ma
abl by ha
 may call, i 

h s al, a
las

h

avlli c liai
is 
h Bi
 _ vya_. I
h s

s 
Bacla  aai cam acss
h Bi
ish li ab
as s al,
l
i vy shy ad misabl,
h xssi  his c 
ac
smi
 say
ha
h  ld b vy a
 l
 ay  h  ld
ll
him ha

 d i
h himsl. Why is i

ha
s may Elishm c
ab
i
s as i
hy  ashamd 
hmslvs--as i
hy
 axi s
 avid
h h ma y,  had cmmi

d sm a l cim?
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER XII.
BARCELONA.--HISTORICAL REMINISCENCES.--CASTLE OF MONJUICH.--THE
CATHEDRAL.--THE GRAND OPERA.--THE PLAZA DE TOROS.--THE LITTLE
ROPE-WALKER.--MONTSERRAT.
Bacla, c
h ival  ic, ad 
h chi sa-

Sai, sms
 b a bih
, cla, ad s s ci
y. I
s asc
,
s a a
las
as ads i
s icial
h has, is
ha
 a
bl imi
a
i  Pais. I
s s

s i al a as bad scims
 avi as a
 b  d i
h Pis la. Th ly
 ly a
ial

hi ab

h lac is
h d s, hich  m s
ad as ss
ial

is  a Saish
. Th l-s i
avll's s
m s
si i
sl i
h
h bs
ac ssibl

h icssa

ihala
i 
ha
vai
y  lai s ad ammiac smlls hich

Saiads,  s s, m s
b am
h cssi
is  xis
c.
Th a  Mish mais, as
h Ms hld Bacla ly 

h cmaa
ivly sh
sac  ih
y-ih
yas, bi xlld i
801 by Chalma, h addd
h ci
y
 his d chy  A i
ai. Th
is ad
h c i s hav d
mid ams

hmslvs
ha
Bacla
as  dd by Hamilca
h Ca
haiia, h as als calld Baca
(_Alic_,
h dbl
). Hv, i
is i
 c
ai
ha
A  s
s
Csa aisd i

 csidabl im
ac, ma
i i
a _clia_ d

h alla
i  J lia A  s
a, Pia, Fav
ia, ad
h s
. D i

h Middl As, Bacla as
h c
  lai ad
h s


 bad s. Cl mb s as
h civd by
h Ca
hlic

i

hm h had iv a ld. I 1543, s
am as is
alid
 shis 
200
s a
Bacla by Blasc d Gaay; b
m c
ai li
ical
cmlica
is ad ivalis
h xim
,
h h s ccss l, as
disc ad. O c s  had
h cs
a
las   m
i,
"h' 

  al
s abad,"   ld ids
h s b 

cia

-sm
i bas, h i
h Ma Osii cid, "_Il cia


 ss lic!_" Blac
i
h s -b , di
, ad a, havi
aa
ly 
hi  a
h
 d, ad l
y 
im
 d i
, i
h
l
s  l
 hl
hm,
hy l d ab

h 
als 
hs
d l ch chs  m
s i
h s 
 i I
aly ad Sai--ch ch,
ba, ad 
ss l md

h, as i
h b ildi had 
y
mad
 i
s mid ha
d  achi
c
 i
a
d
 bl
--
 ha

 s,
mal  sacd, i
as
 b dv
d.
"_Dd l ma?_" cid ,  dscdi m
h
ibad.
"_Pa ici, M'si _, cm vid m, _va b_--all ih
;" ad aay  
i
h
h cmmissiai, havi vidd  slvs i
h
ls,

h
ba
s, ad i a a
  a h   lyi    bac
s 
h da

bl  av, as  a sa, l

i  a

h a
b isla
d hill
 Mj ich, i
h i
s 
ss cs
isi ih
h dd 
sh


h sa,
i   ys

h s
 mas
s i
h dis
a

hab , adi i
h i
s

h hi
 sa
li
, i
s dms,

s, ad havs ai i
h b sy li, bac
d i
h dis
ac by
cl s
s   l m 
ais,  c i sly a
chi
h sa- lls, as
i
h
hi hi
 iis
hy avd slly i
h s
am bl  ai
abv s. This as l x y. Th Fch say
h Elish d 
ds
ad
_l x_. Iac is a vl 
ay mis
, ad i
is a i
y
ha
 
css d'
s
 i
.
Th d-cad, lazy, b, -yd ld ba
ma as m ch as
ishd
a

h ac

ha
ay h ma bis c ld b s mad as
 jy a di i

h sa i s ch a li s clima
. Wh h had s a vcm his
s is as
 b abl
  s bac

 sh,  l 
h is
 h 
 a ba
as
 sh sadis, c
l
s, ails, is, ad
am
illad,
h i
val b
 ach dish bi cc id by sm
i a
ciaill, _ la mai Esal_.
By
h ay, i d
 ill s
a

h calssss,
imidi
y,
bs
iacy, malic,  ha
v la i
may b i
h Bacls
ba
ma's chaac
, I may bsv
ha
, havi lacd a
cidc
i
h ac
 my havi a ba
ady
 ll m i my simmi
xc si, I i
ly sam i
his dlih
 l bl , am, ad b ya

a
 ab
a mil 

 sa, v dami b

ha

h ba
ma
 ld ll. U
i  d, hv, i
h a vi  -
i

h ba
, I dscid i
,
 my amazm
, ab
a a
  a mil
as
, ad i i

 h ma bis, aa
ly ad i ic
dis
, s
ic la
i vil
ly ad avi ab

hi ams. Ths

h ba
ma ad my id, h had j s
md himsl m his
ba
h. Th la

 a
ally ishd
h ba

 ll m, i cas  ay
s dd c 
cayi m aay
 saad, b

h ba
ma dis
ic
ly
bjc
d

ha
cdi, ma
i, "M  , Elshma 
da

 msh ash!" mai, "This id  y s 

h has sam 


 a  m
 ca ab
lli him, s  h ill hav
 cm
bac
by himsl,  I shall   a
h." Hv,
h as 
s i
h s
ala
hads  my id, ad i a  mi
s
h ba

as alsid 
h Elishma h had "
 msh ashd" himsl.
Th s shd,  c ld  jy a s
ll i
h
. Th day as

ba
i l,
h s  shii billia
ly. Ad s ads
h h
h

shady b lvads ad
h cl a s

s, i hich  mild i
h
a hal-bd s
 Fch vicial cai
al  la
i. Th i
m l, i
h i
s a dy
ais, is 
 
h; ad all s ch
Saish sih
s as ic
s , di
y m i ld vlv
ha
s, sashs,
cl d bla

s, ad sadals, a, alas! as a as 
las i
T

ham-c 
Rad. I
h c s    al
 cam

h

a
s, ad mi m
hm,  d  slvs  a hi
 ad, lai
ba
h
h ays  a Aica s ,
h ha
is 
abl, ad
h
d s
is abl. Pic
i   ay am s
s ad als,  ba
h
asc
 Mj ich,
h am  hich is divd m _Ms Jvis_--a

ml ddica
d
 J i
 havi b b il

h s mmi

his
m 
ai by
h Rmas.
Fm
h 
ss cs
i
h m 
ai is s
h 
i
 
Bacla lyi bl, i
h
h hab  ad i
s cd  shii ay
i
h
h las  vy a
i. O
h s
h sid is sad 

a id
ac
 s
il
ial mashs, s
hi i
h s , ad y

cc id by a  mb  h ma habi
a
is. Fv, i
d scacly b
said, as
h h

hs is
h a
s
a

h ya.
Oly
hs h a cmlld by
h hads
cssi
y liv ad 
i
s ch a hal
hy lcali
y. I
is ai l

hi

ha
i a sc s
a

ac
iv, h a
 cl
hs hsl i sm  h ms
ba
i l
ms, sic
ss ad da
h sh ld s
i
 d s may vic
ims. T
h
s
,
h s y sls 
h dis
a
m 
ais a s ad ally
lssi i
h a haz, 
il
hy aa
 b ls
i
h sa.
Th cas
l  Mj ich is a ms
im
a
s
hld, ad i cas
 vl
i, ival abl

hs i ssssi  i
, i
s  s
cmmadi
h 
i
.
Bacla is
h scd las

 i Sai, ad
h ms
s s
ad l ishi i a mca
il i
 vi. I
s ma
s, ays,
ad a-h ss a s
ly b il
, ad
h al asc

his
Machs
  Saish Lacashi is b sy,
hivi, ad ch l.
Cc
d i
h
h A
la
ic 
s by ailays, ad i
h
h ld by

h sa,  hich i
is s chamily si
a
d, Bacla, i
h i
s
id s
i s, bld, i
lli
, ad d-a
d  la
i, sh ld
all  ival
 s sd i
i
h a
s  cmmc. Th clima

 i
s i
 is bih
, mild, ad v. S is sldm s, ad
h
ava  mb  days i hich ai alls is b
six
y-i 


h 365. Th ha
 s mm is  d b
a
, b
i
is
md by

h Mdi
aa bzs. I
h c 
y a d
h ci
y,
h lais
a cvd i
h a ad maa
 vs, ad
h hill sids
a vaia
d i
h
h 

y c 
y sa
s,  _
s_, hich s
a
d Washi
 Ivi.
I
m s
b cssd, hv,
ha
i
is a
h disai
i
 id
s li

l 
h al Saish lm
i s la a
  Sai.
alladlid ad Bacla a ali
, iasm ch as
hy b
h ssss
acads; b
h  is i
sly Saish,
h 
h is
ibly
L
hia, ad calls B li
ia mmis. Th sys
m  bi
sms,
,
 b caid  h i a vy id ma. I  

h ms
 
d _lazas_ i
h ci
y,  ,   ccasi,
s ddly accs
d by a ldly lady cvd i
h a a
i
y  blac

lac, ad 
his dssd i
h a
ca ad i
y. U
a
i
   ha
s
 i i ha
svic  c ld hav
h haiss 
di h--
hi
i, has,
ha
sh mih
b ill ad ishd s

 call a _iac_,  s
ill b

,
ha
sh as i
 as
s

di--sh simly dmadd a  als "
h lv  Gd ad Sai

Jams."

D i
h c
vl
i a  chis, i
h m mischi 
m
h dsi 
hi d s, sh
d  day 
h  blic
mad, h a
i
s  lls
,
h ds _iva Pim!_ Is
a
ly
h
v-zal s dams  d
y i
d
hi cabis i
h dic
i
m hc iss d
h cy, ad a lih
 b ll
s as s
am
h

iid  s  l i
h s

s. Sval c
ly ic

ss, icl di
 ladis ad a ia
,  m
ally  dd. Th

ld 
his mlachly ac
, hich had cc d ly c
ly,
did 
ma
 i
m lasa

 s d i
h h s hich  s

daily i
h sci
y  a Saish 
lma h had
a
 a acy

s. Bi a vil
dmca
ad  a ms
im lsiv dissi
i, h
as i
h cs
a
habi

al
i i a da sly  ma, i
a ai lly l d ad dis
ic

  vic, ab

h abv-amd
al, bii 

h d "Pim" s shaly ad dis
ic
ly
ha

ally xc
d, vy
im h

d i
,
 xic
h ssa
i
 bi iddld i
h balls ad sl s m ay i

h cmass.
As  a
dly d    "da id,"  did 
i
h las

ca h as h,  ha
as ha
. I
as a ma

   cc
 s

ha
i Sai
h  m  i
h  lacs--
h s a m i

h  d hls, ad
h  d m i
h s a hls--  ld i

ca s s
h slih
s
asiss i
hy maid
h
ill Dmsday.
All
his 


h a
s
ais
 imss    ac ai
ac,
scially a
 hai
h b-m
id acd
; b
s
ill, a

disaably sh
i
vals,
h d PRIM, v ad a, a 

i
h s
a
li dis
ic
ss, ca si s as m ch asiss as  sh ld
hav l
i  had vy mm
xc
d
h xlsi  a shll a

  sids.
Th ca
hdal,  c s, had
 b _d_; ad i
is d l h
is
ic
ivly
h
 is
h 
s 
his a
al m
al d aidd.
I I
aly, a
 ba
as
, a
ay  lac, i
is alays "N 

h _D m_!" Ad s i Sai, i si
 
h i
ica
 idis
 s

s ad al labyi
hi s
a
 
h
s, s  as
h

aid h 
  his ay, ds
h
 is
s

ad id his
_chass ca_--
h ca
hdal. Wll, has,
h is 
hi  a
h
m s blim, majs
ic, ad imsi
ha  
hs mas
ics 
Chis
ia achi
c
, a Saish ca
hdal, 
ml m i
ad

hy 
h shi 
h E
al.
Th Ca
hdal  Bacla, li
 may 
hs i Sai, is b il


h si
  a Mish ms , ad is maiic
i dsi,
h h

h imssi hich i
d cs is has a
h smb. Da
d
chals, dimly li
i
h
i
li lih
s,
h 
a s bd d blaz
 sld  m
hi  s _
abls_ ad li
i baz
ailis. Abv,
h li s G
hic achs m
i all
hi lid
ba
y, li

h
s i sm havly av . L s  s
alls ad
sa
s--miacls  d-cavi, s m 
d i
h siy iacls 

h da
s
a
, hs d s
acy sms li
 a cay  havy
lac sad 
hm--s  d
h chi. Ba mabls m
h alls,

h ai is s
aid i
h ich ad slm cl i m
h  s
ids, ad
h aa
sm
  ics lls i sl y cl ds
a d
h aci
cl ms.
Th Ryal Oa-h s  Bacla is  
h las
i
h ld,
ad h i
is illd has a ms
cha
i asc
. As
h Bacls
a a
ic laly a
ial
 am sm
s, ad, i ac
,
 all
ids 
ai
y,
hy hav ac id s ch
as
 i sl-dca
i ad sal
adm
,
ha
a vy i al c
is d cd h
h a

_sall_ is ac
d
 vli i
h
h _ba md_. A

his

a-h s  ss a c
alaxy  da

, ad,  may say, blazi
ba
y;  amids

h ich sil
s,
h  s sa
is, ad
h ay
ibbs  all cl s, billia
i
h sa
li jls,
h shis

m vy mal ac
h y
bih
 jly  la Saish
ys lashi
h ic
m
is 
h h ma s l as
h m sic alls,
s
ii li
 a bz,  i
s chds. Th  mb  ims,
,
li m all a
s 
h a

ha
, d
h sc vy
 s; ad
h ma i hich
h li

i m l
i
d ccasially
iss xci
dly _ mass_
 ala d ad av
hi
chis, as
hy
s
a sly l
h s dd c
 sm assa   s al ,
is c
ly lc
ic.
Th mac, hv, cmad i
h
ha
i
ssd a
Madid, ad
s
ill m i
h
ha

h Ld  Pais Oas, as, h  
a
Bacla,
am ad mdic. Th hl cmay smd m 
lss i a al s
a
  chic mlachly ad chma
ic scals.
Rdi chily lid  his ls ad  hih 
, ad as
c
i ally isi himsl    his 
li
 a zhy bii
his
aii. Why,  d, a all O
hlls 
h lyic s
a i a
al s
a
  sia
i? Ad h a 
lma i a a a
s

 c s his da h
, hy ds h ivaiably dss himsl i blac

vlv
ad imi
a
i i
lac, hil
h lady hsl m s
aa
i
h h bac
hai d? I
c
aily is vy c i s,
h h i

Saish,
 bsv, i ab
  mi
s a

h dsc

h
c 
ai a

h d  ach ac
,
h 
i a-h s illd i
h
h
sm
 
bacc, ad  xics a vl ssa
i h, al
i

h ad s
aicas, h s
s
 lih
his ciaill a
 
h
ildd lams. I
is  li

l s  Elish ladis
 cmlai 

bacc i Sai, ad i
is s
iabl
as
 i
hm
 b idia
,
as  hav s may,  idi
hmslvs ivlvd i cl ds 
sm
. Bsids hich, all ma
id hav
 ba
hi b ds i 
ay  a
h, ad
h aa
sc

h Havaah la is s ly
a
ial lih
 h
 d  ams

h a

ials  li.
M hav

la
 m i
hi _va s_, hy sh ld m 

ma

h sam allac  m d i
his? Each a
i, li
 ach
idivid al, has i
s idisycasy, ad
h a
maxim, "Wha
ca'
b
c d m s
b d d,"  h
v
 b 

 by
avlls,
scially
hs h a s
as

h c s
ms 
h c 
y i
hich
hy a
maily sj i.
Th Plaza d ls Ts,  B ll Ri, si
a
d i
h _ a
i_
calld Bacl
a, h
h  ad lab i classs,

h
i
h a cmm i
y  shi-chadls, sid, has  
sis i
aaac
 ay
hi ls
ha ha
i
is, amly, a a
d
sla h
-h s. Wh  aivd i
h ci
y
h b ll ih
s  v

h sas, ad
h i as sd as a cic s ad ymasi m 
acba
s ad a
hl
s. W i
ssd i
hi i
, hv, a sc
acl,
bldlss idd, b
s
ill i
h
h sc
ad
his
 bld--ad
h ma bld,
--ab
i
, hich  may h ca scacly b
i
ssd i ay 
h civilisd lad, hs ic assis a



i a chic s
a
  m
by s
iv shs  a

c l
y, ad hs
d y
h a 
dadd m
h da 

hi ssibili
is
 all lv  mcy ad syma
hy  s i.
A mal child  sv yas as b h
i

h a
aa, hich
as cvd i
h h ma bis,
hi acs all
d ads. Sh
as ad
 al

h 
i l
h  a  iclid m
h
l   sid 
h b ildi 

h  
h 
h, ab
a
h dd 
i hih
. U
a
i h lac 
h , j s
b
cmmci h il s j y,
h  child, s ddly sizd i
h
a aic, b s
i

as, ad vid
ly sha
i i
h a, imld


 b xc sd. A

his sih
,
h hllss child
mbli i sih

 h da
h, i
mih
b, ha
m
is illd
h bas

h
a
cd? S  y  icc i dadly il 
h idl
am sm

h sc
a
s? A ima
iv dsi
  sh ad ad
sc 
ha

d child m a
 ds
 c
i? Did ay m
h's
ha
, l

i i
h lvi
h h
s  h  ia
, ya 

h sc  
his  li

l bi,
ic
d 
i sa
li
isl
ad i
a z,
mbli al i mid ai  a sil ? N!
hy
all
h h
ly 
h val  
hi misabl c, ad l d  h
vics  had i all dic
is xca
i
h child. "P sh h
--ma
 h ,"
hy cid, ad sh

hi is
s a

h  li

l
ca
, hs
as  aid d h ch
s as sh l
d m
sid
 sid, imlily   idly lac. B

h as .
Wi
h a s dd im ls, hv--aa
ly  id--sh sh
h had
dia
ly,  ld d a sb, ad asi
h balaci l, s
a
d
 h hih ad a a
h. Sh aivd,
ha
Gd, a
h ds
ia
i
sa ad s d, 
ly, hv, i
h
a 
  aval 
ala s, b
amids
hisss ad js. This c
aily as a ai l
a i
h s
dy  a a
i's chaac
is
ics, i
h
 dmi

ai

 s

h ai l c
i
d cd, i
is
 b hd, 
may mids.
Na Bacla is M
sa
,
h _Ms Sa
s_ 
h Rmas. U
a ild ad  d m 
ai, h ad cavd i
 a id dis

d
mass by
h mys
i s cs  a
, is i
chd a mas
y. Th
vi m
h s mmi
is,  c s, maiic
, ad
h i mabl


s i
h hich
h a
sa
d m 
ai is hycmbd, a
as s al vy da
, dam, a
i i, ad hlsm. Th h  d b


hy a c i s ad d l,  is a
, a
 havi d a c
ai
am 
 

s ad s
alac
i
 cavs i vai s a
s 
h
ld,
 say, h
h ds "H mavll s!" a did i

h
a, "W ish
 dss i
as imssibl!" as D. Jhs bsvd
h h as lis
i
 sm clba
d m 
h iddl. Th
bl 
lxicah, h as  sc
  ss, as, hv,
ssibly ih
, , h la

s m
, Sa
a s
 di--
h
is  d  him
 s
ay, i ac
;
hs hm h lavs bhid him
ill d all
h 
 him.
Th ailay m Bacla
 Ga asss
h h a s ccssi 
lvly ladscas. Th
avll is caid as
l
y chais  hills
cl
hd 

hi s mmi
s i
h d  
h avi i. Th
i ad
h asss
h h s
vallys,
h 
l ls 
hich, smili i
h s shi, a cvd i
h
h ichs
vd .
Occasially
h mics hich c
hs vallys a cs
d i
h

h b
 masy  
h days; as  j y ads--cas
ls,

s, ld ama
s, c mbli alls, a  i all dic
is li

s
l
s 
h as
. Wh
h sc bis
 sh sis  h ma
habi
a
i,  ass hi
 villas ad am-h ss,
acd  d ad
h  i
h balcis, v hich  l x ia
cs. Sli
ay
masis a sm
ims s lami 
m
h da
vd  
h
ds,  si

i 
h vlv
s ac  aml lais. Th
h
ailay cais s as

h chals  did-  ivs, ad v s
y
lais, hich aa
 s

ch aay 
il, i
h dis
a
hiz,

hy m

h s
bl  li 
h Mdi
aa. Th  jyd
m a csidabl dis
ac   las
 limss 
hs aiy
a
s, i
h may a hi
 la
 sail s
i 
hm, li

h ay
is  sm xha s
d sa-bid.
[Ill s
a
i: [++] Dca
iv Ima]

CHAPTER XIII.
ANCIENT BRIDGE OF GERONA.--THE POPULATION.--A FIESTA.--SEARCH FOR
AN HOTEL.--THE FONDA DE LA ESTRELLA.--LAST SIEGE OF GERONA.--THE
CATHEDRAL.--A FEW CONCLUDING WORDS ON SPAIN.
Wh a
las

h
ai s
d i
h 
s
i
s  Ga,  m 
d

h
  a mib s ad  hild 
h h a b lvad 
la
s, i hich   s  vy _lai_ l
, h--i
bi a
_is
a_ day-- daci ad hi i la cicls i a zid
ma
ha

 s calm l
s as vy ma
abl. Th sih
,
hv, as billia
ad aima
i. Scal
cas, d sashs, vlv

bchs, ad jac

s cvd i
h lashi m
al b

s,

h
i
h
h billia


ica
s ad mbidd bdics 
h mals,
d cd a sc
ha
as al

h 
h ms
livly dsci
i.
U mi m
h av   la
s,
h
  Ga
b s
s ddly  s. A d l ld
 i
is! Tal
ab

h
ic
s ! Wh a all
h a
is
s h  
Wals, Maa
,
Scab', ad
h v-d Eas
, h iv s ial vis 
h
sam, _ s  ad a sam_, 
il l d v hav mvd 

 Ld


hm as ll as
h ihabi
a
s 
hs lacs

hmslvs? Why d'

hy
avl hi
h, ad 
b
h jadd
Bi
ish  blic
his i
sly i
s
i ad ms
x
adiay lac?
H
hy may id vl
y ad vai
y
 las
h ms
xac
i

as
. Th ci
y as a hl is vy ld ad ai
. Ric

y h ss
aa sm
ims
 b ild  idiscimia
ly  has  a 

ba

lm
s ad c mbli ama
s. Th b dcayi alls
ll may
a s
y 
h vilc ad lalssss  
h
ims. Th l 

h s
day liv i h ss hich a b il

h mais  ld

s, ad a cs
 c
d  ay
hi
ha
cam
 had a

h mm
.
Rc
s, s
s, d, di
-has, m d, ld bic
s, ld  is,  bbish,
all hav b a
d

h, ad ild  c sdly i
 habi
a
is;
ad a ms
i , h
 s, ad da s mass
hy sm. H ss
ad 
h b ildis bd ad b
  a
h i all dic
is i a
vy s
i ad a
ad ma, as i
h hl lac had b s ddly
aalysd i
h mids
 sm al ac
 li
ss. O diic
s  a
h, as
h lam s 

h lam. Th is  ch ch,
idd, cs
 c
d 
 sm ld cv
alls  a
slidi
y,

ha
s 
s   bl h ss hich la bdily  i
, ad i
h

i
 ld ivi
ably all d li
 s may cad-h ss. I
 is
sm j dm

 al
ab
i
h sc i
y i
h i
i  may 

hs chami dllis,
h s
a ld ms cssi
a
i a

s
adiss  ai
ad cc
j dm
 y, 
h ls a 

alays s lvl as  mih
dsi. Th a hih
s ad hlls
hich i
is advisabl
 avid as m ch as ssibl i   ld sca
ai l b iss.
Ga is i ali
y  
h ai
s
ad ms
 i s ci
is 
Sai. Wh i
s  la
i a 
daci a-dacs i
h s

s,
i
is vy dsla
 ad sil
. I
is 
ily i
h

ad 
ma ac
s; ad, bai i
s ba
i l Ca
alia ca
hdal, i
is
i
h
ay 
hy m m
s ha
v, ad has 
hi
 a

ac

h
a


i 
h las
xac
i 
 is
s. I
is s sd
 hav
b  dd by
h
ib  Baca
i Cl
s, as a bac
as
h ya 930
b
h Chis
ia a; ad m
h alis

ims 

h Fch

a

ac
i 1809, i
has aai ad aai b ba

d,
c
d ab
,
ad alms
d la
d by a
d sis, hil i
s ihabi
a
s,
h ay  l
, hav b dcima
d by ami ad disas. Li
 a
hix, hv,
h ld ci
y has is aai m i
s ashs. As i

s
ads , i
is cs
 c
d 
ily   is. Th hm  s al,
ad is
s, ad dcay, i
is aia
ly b il

h vs
is 

h as
. Th li

l iv Oa ids i
s s
i c s
h h s
 cazy h ss, cvd all v i
h d balcis illd i
h
l-
s, ad ay i
h cl d as. Th h ss sm
li ad
i
chi
ads ach 
h v
h di
y s
am, hich is sad by
a ic
s  ld
h-ach bid, als i a ms
 i s cdi
i.
Wh
h ci
adl c mbld b
h Fch ca  1809,
h is
 a hih ha   bbish, 
h
  hich a chd  s 
cc
ic-l
i h ss, b il

h sha

d bic
s ad _dbis_
has
ily a
d

h, ad ild ayh i
 sm
hi smbli
h ma habi
a
is, i
h a bl disad  all dsi, ad aa
ly
v 
h las  avi
y. Th
 is all  hill ad d hill,
 ll  hls, di
chs, ad dy
s. Th acads a m ldi;
h
c 
s da
ad mald s; ad h
h a lih
s  s

s
ais,
hy a ld ad b
. Th a ch chs ad cv
s, b


hy a ld ad 
 ai;
h a 
s, b

hy a ba

d;
ad ba

lm
s, b

hy a c mbli. A y  sh-l
i child
i s ch a lac  ld aa a aachism; b

h a l
y 

h ms
 lsiv-l
i bas. A

al absc  all sai
ay
aam
s ca ss
h a
msh 
h

 b ac
ally l
as
ll as sml
. A asy mis
sms
 vl i
. Y
 as Ga
is, ha
hism has m
im

im b dislayd by
h alla

ihabi
a
s!
As  hav said,  aivd  a _is
a_ day--a S day, ad  d all

h y  m i
h
-- s ch
h a i i
--cllc
d i
h
s as ad c 
s, ad al
i  d ad  d i is,  aci
had i had
 a mas d cadc  s, sm
hi li

ha

hli dvishs, ad l
i vy slm, silly, ad h
. This idd
smd a ms
limi
d ida  am sm
.
Hav dd s m
h h
ls! O  dilic s
d a
. W 

d
 isc
i
, ad,  advaci,  immdia
ly salld  by
a da
achay ladi
 
 d
hs byd, ad vmi
i i  
acs  
hs vllys 
ibl smlls hich a idi s.
R
a
i i dismay, 

, as a ma

  cscic,  lac
 a

h 

h h s, ad  l
i
 i
. W c ld imai
ha

h hl  ld b--a sis  idi assas ladi

hi
ashd, cm
abl ms, i
h ids i
h
lass, b

a
d ad bad. La-yd ls, ms
ly m l
i,  ld bably b
s
i 
h ha
-s i bdms, hil
h ls  ld s
a
libal cllc
i  maiic
scims 
h al-i
cc
ach.
Psidi v all
his,  d b

h  ld b a asy ca
 i

h sha  a ladld, l
i a
s as i h had
h Evil Ey, ad
a
d
 iv s a
as
  i
s . Si
his  ld v d, 
mad  b d i

h i
i 
h dilic, ad hid  slvs,
i
h a
i ha
s, ams
sm am ld ladis, i
h
hi b dls
ad mbllas. A

h x
h
l   d a Saish 
lma,  
cmai i
h
ai m Bacla, h had b s civil as

 s a ld cia

 cas as a s
, hich, 
a
ly, 

ld 
i 

 cmlld s
  s. Wha
a as
 
im
ha

s

hi is!--as abs d as
 m i 

 ih
a d l, ad
sai  c cas a
ach 
h. Hv,
h h as, lai
v
h balcy 
h Fda d la Es
lla. _
il_--S
a!--Th S
a

ad Ga
? N, ms
dis
ic
ly _
_ Th S
a ad Ga
.
O  id, as  hav said, as lai v
h balcy, a
 lly
ihali
h dismal smlls hich as m
h s

bl. As h had

a
 ms  s,  
i, d
mid
 mai,
h h  c ld
s sas  ha
  a
 as
 b. O  id had laid himsl
d, ad cvd himsl i
h a  ,
 
h h
h ac 
a
i
a li

l s
, b
a
 h had, by a s
 
 imaia
i,
s sd h had shd himsl by his sis
a,  l
d  his
c 
ac as h as, i
h
h   s
ill  him, ad sa
ha
i

smbld a maiid  cas
 m
ha a h ma visa. All
h
ms i
s, las, ad lis i Ga m s
hav cc
a
d
hi
cs  his ac, ad hld
h c
is  a c l 
h s. Th h
l al

h as a vy misabl s
ablishm
, 

m ivi
i
ha
h cdi .
A
  had 
id
 s
,
h l ca
d i a vy asy ma

h h

h liv-l ih
. Th alls    sli aa
m
s
 ai
d blac
, ad vy a
icl   i
 as svd m

h disas
 s c
s  dam by
h
im-h d d s
 as.
Mis
 as c
i ally di m
h cili 

h l
bl, i
h a s d as  la as
ha
 a sl d l m. I a
aa
m
h sl is ally c
ai,
h c 
i 
hs
ds, ad
hi aam
i
 mi
s, a
s, ad h s, mih

v a vy lasi as
im. W did, 
h vi    aival,
ms
l x i sly  s
d b mad  _Plaza d Ts_ hs, ad
s d svly m chla ad cam, i cs c, 
h
days a
.
I May, 1809,
h Fch, i
h 35,000 m d i ad A a ,
bsid Ga, ad i
as 

ill a
 sv m
hs ad iv days'
ic ad icssa
s
 l
ha

h idmi
abl ihabi
a
s, abl

 hld 
l aais
ami ad s
ilc,  cmlld

 yild. F
y Fch ba

is  i si
i, b

h alla

Gs, i
h  s  ii calib ad m
al, b
mad i
h ha
d


h i--
hi lii s 
h siasm a

h sam
im bi
ad

h ms
dsa
 i
ch by
h is
hd-- h
i
h
h
dsaii y  aa
ics. Wm svd ad ladd
h ca, ad
lay dad vyh by
h sid 
hi h sbads ad b
hs.
Th is
s
im
xicd by
h Gs as
hy sa m
hi
alls
h advaci hs

h Fch as 

ha

, b
a
b i dsi  v, a c abl li  ha
d
ads

h sils 
hi ha
hs ad hms, hich mad
hm lcm
h
cmi cmba
as
hy  ld a lii s _is
a_   la cmy.
Th m lab d aidly a

h 
iica
is i
h ic
ad
sad, jii i
h
h m i
h ms
ad  s d
is;
ai
hi
dlica
 hads as
hy ild
h a
 h s
s ad
d a

h
cl msy ca, ad ch lly bdi
hi ail ms ba
h
h
ih
 havy b ds,
hy c ad i
h l
, s
, ad smil

h m  Ga,
h sldis  a day. All
hs h c ld cay a
a sizd i
, ad ayi
h is

 blss i
,
issd i
as a
ci s i
 hav. Y  ad ld, s
 ad ail,  shd i
h

h sias
ic sh
s
 ma
h alls, d
mid
 d  di. N

a ca
 as
h b

his
d 
h cmba
,
h ha
 all
ba
i i
h  li s  ls. Rich ad 
  dis
ic
i: all
  al i
hi lv  Gd ad c 
y.
N did
h ac
al
s 
h ih
dimiish
h sii
 val 
i
h hich
hy had cmmcd i
. Th dad, as
hy ll,  blssd

by
h a
ch l is
, ad vid by
h s vivs as ma
ys. As
h

si ssd, a
h ad m a l  aad i
hi vy
mids
, aais
hich
h mih
is
c ld 
vail. Th dad  h

aais

h livi; 
h acc m la
d css 
h slai,  
hm
hy  abl
 b y, b h
a s
ilc 
h
. S
ill

h hic dds  h
 lichi, ad ll d 

i a


hi  s. Th as a cy  bad,  al-yd ami hvd
v
h ci
y. All
h dms
ic aimals--
h ai
h l ids ad
slavs  ma--had b i
ilssly sla h
d ad
hi lsh aly
dv d. Ev
h a
s 
h iv had svd as 
im


h
ais, ad
h dad
hmslvs a
l
h s lid Ga i
h a
has
ly b
ima
iv d. S
ill amids
bld ad sla h
, ams


h ilds
hs  la , ami, ad a, Ga hld 
aais


h , 
il, a
 sv m
hs ad iv days  i d
mia
i
ad idmi
abl c a, i
ll xha s
d, c shd, ad s
a

i

h hads 
h my. Fi

h sad m had ishd 
h
sid 
h Fch, ad i
h sad 
ha

h Saiads. Th s
dd
h las
si  Ga; ad as l as
  a
i
ism ad
lichi c a xci
   ams
syma
hy,
h ams  Saassa
ad Ga sh ld b a
ch-ds
 all
  lvs 
hi c 
y.
W 


h
ha
 a
Ga, hich   d
 b a la,
ai
d aa
m
, 
i i
h
h d  
bacc. Th dama 

h vi as a
h cmlica
d i s
 c
, ad m s
hav b
hai i icid
, j di by
h c
i
had 
h sc
a
s.
Th l
as s abs dly icdibl as scacly
 dsv m
i. Th
h as discvd by his a
h
 hav maid his s
-m
h. Th

a
 
lma, hs i had maid his s, amb la
d

h s
a i aa
dis
ac
i, vy  ad
h s
i a

h
i
 hav his
as d by a 
s. Th dial  m s
hav
b maiic
,
 j d by
h  mb  ahs! ad hs!
 hich

h a dic av v
. As a as
h ac
s  ccd, i
as
c
ly cssay, as
h m
 did i
all 
hm, i a vy
a dibl ma. Idd, a

ims, s dis
ic
, cla, ad cibl
as his adi 
h lay,
ha

h ladi
adia as 
ly
c
ly ia dibl, b
bcam

ly schlss, c

i himsl
i
h "sai
h ai," ad di a li

l d mb-sh, v ad a

a
i a  mas d acs. Th m
 himsl, a
ay assa
 ii x
a c, j md  i his li

l shd i 

h

lih
s ad avd his ams al
li
 ailay sials, ad
h as
s ddly disaad.
Wh vy  i
h
ady as dissd  by da
h,
h
c 
ai ll, ad  al
d bac

   h
l i
h a 
ic
li

l Saiad, h
idly accs
d s,
lli s h as vy
imssiabl, ad a

h sih
 a Elishma c ld v s
ai
himsl m
di
 him his sc

h Bi
ish ally,
ad  Si Glads
 i a
ic la. H c
aily as  
h ms

vl bl idivid als  v had
h mis

 cm acss. H
ld
s all h
  vy s bjc
, ad a a
dal bsids ab
hich
h
 
hi; di by imi s
ha
h had a a
admia
i
 vy
hi bl ad ad, a ass ac hich h iishd by
sidli s i
h asis
ma ssibl 

h s m  iv
shillis--Elish my.
B
h
avll
a
s lav  chami ld Ga--ad, i si

 i
s may discm
s,
 lav i
 is l
h--l
him ad c
m
h h i
s ai
ld ic

y s

s by
ilih
, ad 


h da
sa
d b
 s
y-lis  i
s h ss. Wadi , h
ill cm s ddly 
h ba
i l aci
ca
hdal ch ch, i
h

i
s imsi lis. I
is a
 ly maiic
diic, ad  ca

l

 i
s l
y achs, s smb i
hi asc
, i
h
bi
imssd by
h lmy majs
y 
his ld G
hic
ml. Th h i
s
sldid baz a
s
h y ca
chs
h lam 
i
li
as
cas
i
hi ays   s  a dy is
s, hil all a d

hm, amid
h hi
 c li cl dl
s  ascdi ics, alls
h
hal  s
lih
, i hich
hy aa as i a visi. Da
sh dd
i s, sca

d v
h mabl l, aa
ly m
ilss i
ay, 
li b
h al
as  ams

h aci

mbs.
A a  a
 as ali 
h  
hs maiic

ics  m sic hich
h Rmish Ch ch has ddica
d

h svic
 lii; ad, a
a dis
a
al
a, a sldidly bd is
as
ci
i sm 
h svics 
h Ch ch. Wh, ha
v his cd,
c ld mai mvd i s ch a a?
*

W a  a

h d    ambl, b
b  


h

dlih
s  hm,  may as ll add a  ds  lai ac

cci
h c all- l ad s
ill ill s
i s Sai.
Th chi chaac
is
ics  Sai aa
 b il, di
, is
s,
ad b ll-ih
s; , i
h

hs, Ch ch ad S
a
 ssibly mih


ch. Sai is a cis  c
adic
is. I
is vy cld,
ad vy h
; vy ba
i l, vy ly; vy  i
 l, vy ba.
Th m
al chaac
  i
s  la
i is simly a c 
a


h hysical a
 
h c 
y, ad is d b
lss alms

ily
il cd by clima
ic c liai
is. Th Saiad is dis
i ishd
by m ch a
al shass 
h h
ad ac
 i
llic. A s
ad 
l sii
is 
  d ams

hm, ad
hy a ally
x
mly c 
 s
 s
as h
ad
hi sil ad a i
hi

hi a
s.
Th Saiad sssss a vy ad
imaia
i, ad his assis a

 vy xci
abl--sm
ims v c
llabl. Th c
i  s
is c
is hich dis
ss
h lad iv vidc 
h cs
a

s
a
  m
a
i i hich
h sii
s 
h  la
i a
s
d. A c
ai am 
, hv,  hysical la , dd by

h ha

hi clima
, ad dscdi

hm m ld Saacic
bld, is bldd i
h a
m
al ac
ivi
y ad a imassid a
.
I
hi diay ac
is
hy a 
 
l i
h x
m,
b
h
hi assis a aa
d
hy 
 
ly bcm
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[Ill s
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BRADBURY, EANS, AND CO., PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS.

+----------------------------------------------------------------- +
| Tascib's N
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|
|
|
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|
|
|
| E chad:
|
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h sada's sd." (. 168) sh ld b "
h
's
|
|
sd."
|
+------------------------------------------------------------------+

Ed 
h Pjc
G
b EB

 Th S y S
h, by Jh William Clay

*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SUNNY SOUTH ***
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START: FULL LICENSE
THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
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hi 30 days  ci

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Lics. Y m s
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dis
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1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Exc

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liabili
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LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
PROIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
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LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIE OR
INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EEN IF YOU GIE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
DAMAGE.
1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - I y discv a
dc
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his 
is vidd
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OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT
LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
1.F.5. Sm s
a
s d 
all disclaims  c
ai imlid
aa
is 
h xcl si  limi
a
i  c
ai
ys 
damas. I ay disclaim  limi
a
i s

h i
his am

vila
s
h la 
h s
a
 alicabl

his am
,
h
am
shall b i

d
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h maxim m disclaim 
limi
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i mi

d by
h alicabl s
a
 la. Th ivalidi
y 
cabili
y  ay visi 
his am
shall 
vid
h
maii visis.
1.F.6. INDEMNITY - Y a
 idmiy ad hld
h F da
i,
h

adma
, ay a
 mly 
h F da
i, ay
vidi cis  Pjc
G
b-
m lc
ic 
s i
accdac i
h
his am
, ad ay vl 
s asscia
d i
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i, m
i ad dis
ib
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b-
m
lc
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s, hamlss m all liabili
y, cs
s ad xss,
icl di lal s,
ha
ais dic
ly  idic
ly m ay 

h lli hich y d  ca s
 cc : (a) dis
ib
i 
his
 ay Pjc
G
b-
m 
, (b) al
a
i, mdiica
i, 
addi
is  dl
is
 ay Pjc
G
b-
m 
, ad (c) ay

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y

ca s.

Sc
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h Missi  Pjc
G
b-
m

Pjc
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b-
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lc
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s i ma
s adabl by
h ids
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cm
s icl di bsl
, ld, middl-ad ad  cm
s. I

xis
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s  h dds  vl 
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m l i all al
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assis
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 achi Pjc
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b-
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ha

h Pjc
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b-
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mai ly availabl  a
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h Pjc

G
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i as ca
d
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ad ma

  Pjc
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a
is. T la m ab

h Pjc
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b Li
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Achiv F da
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s ad da
is ca hl, s
Sc
is 3 ad 4 ad
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b.

Sc
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h Pjc
G
b Li
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Th Pjc
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b Li
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i is a  i

501(c)(3) d ca
ial ca
i aizd d
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h
s
a
  Mississii ad a
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s
a
s by
h I
al
Rv  Svic. Th F da
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ax id
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 mb is 64-6221541. C
ib
is

h Pjc
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b Li
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Achiv F da
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h  ll x

mi

d by
U.S. dal las ad y  s
a
's las.
Th F da
i's icial ic is i Faiba
s, Alas
a, i
h
h
maili addss: PO Bx 750175, Faiba
s, AK 99775, b
i
s
vl 
s ad mlys a sca

d
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lca
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s b siss ic is lca
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809 N
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La
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b./c
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F addi
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D. Gy B. Nby
Chi Exc
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bby@la.
Sc
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Da
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h Pjc
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Li
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Pjc
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s
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ca b
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d i machi adabl m accssibl by
h ids

aay   im
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da
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($1
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Th F da
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s a
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ad
 
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hs  im
s. W d 
slici
da
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h  hav 
civd i

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DONATIONS  d
mi
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b./da

Whil  ca
ad d 
slici
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Plas chc

h Pjc
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da
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hds ad addsss. Da
is a acc
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s, li aym
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cad da
is. T
da
, las visi
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b./da

Sc
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Pjc
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b-
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s.
Pss Michal S. Ha
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h Pjc

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ic is icl dd. Th s,  d 

cssaily
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Ms
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b.
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h Pjc
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Achiv F da
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s, ad h

s bscib
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