SHOE LAST GRADING AND EXPERIMENTAL ESTIMATION OF DIMENSIONAL VARIATION USING DELCAM CRISPIN 3D LAST MAKER
ABSTRACT. This article presets a study regarding dimensional changes of shoe lasts, using Delcam CRISPIN Last Maker, Grade function. The purpose is to obtain
shoe lasts for inferior and superior size numbers to the one from the database obtained with ModelTracer and Last Maker software. Using the computer in last
modelling activities enables an increase in performance for footwear producers by reducing the working time with testing the prototypes. Automatic grading
provides the footwear producers with all size numbers of lasts that have to be produced. The presented studies ensure work accuracy and the application's utility for
footwear manufacturers.
KEY WORDS: shoe last, size number, size systems, width, grading
GRADAREA CALAPOADELOR I ESTIMAREA EXPERIMENTAL A VARIAIEI NUMERELOR ACESTORA UTILIZND APLICAIA DELCAM CRISPIN 3D LAST MAKER
REZUMAT. n lucrare se prezint un studiu privind schimbarea dimensiunilor unui calapod utiliznd sistemul Delcam CRISPIN 3D Last Maker, funcia Gradare. Scopul
este cel de obinere a calapoadelor pentru numere inferioare i superioare numrului de mrime a calapoadelor din baza de date obinute prin digitizare si
modelare cu produsele soft ModelTracer i Last Maker. Utilizarea calculatorului n activiti de modelare a calapodului permite creterea performanelor unui
productor de nclminte prin scderea timpului de lucru cu testarea prototipurilor. Gradarea automat ofer productorilor de nclminte calapoade pentru
toate numerele de mrime ce urmeaz a fi fabricate. Studiile efectuate garanteaz precizia n lucru i utilitatea aplicaiei pentru productorii de nclminte.
CUVINTE CHEIE: calapod, numr de mrime, sisteme de mrimi, lrgime, gradare
LA GRADATION DES FORMES CHAUSSURE ET L'ESTIMATION EXPRIMENTALE DE LA VARIATION DE LEUR POINTURE EN UTILISANT LE LOGICIEL DELCAM
CRISPIN 3D LAST MAKER
RSUM. Cet article prsente une tude sur le changement des pointures d'une forme chaussure l'aide du logiciel Delcam CRISPIN 3D Last, fonction Gradation.
L'objectif est d'obtenir des formes chaussure pour de pointures infrieures et suprieures ceux de la base de donnes, obtenues par la numrisation et la
modlisation en utilisant les logiciels ModelTracer et Last Maker. L'utilisation de l'ordinateur dans les activits de modlisation de la forme permet d'augmenter les
performances d'un fabricant de chaussures en rduisant le temps de travail pour l'essai des prototypes. La gradation automatique fournit aux fabricants de
chaussures des formes pour toutes les pointures de chaussures produire. Les tudes garantissent la prcision et l'utilit de l'application pour les fabricants de
chaussures.
MOTS-CLS: forme chaussure, pointure, systme de pointures, largeur, gradation
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCERE
Correspondence to: Mariana DRISCU, "Gheorghe Asachi" Technical University of Iasi, Faculty of Textile, Leather and Industrial Management, 53 D. Mangeron,
700050 - Iasi, Romania, email: mcocea@tex.tuiasi.ro
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M. DRISCU, M. COSTEA
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SHOE LAST GRADING AND EXPERIMENTAL ESTIMATION OF DIMENSIONAL VARIATION USING DELCAM CRISPIN 3D LAST MAKER
127
M. DRISCU, M. COSTEA
Last's Length
Lungimea calapodului
Size Systems
Sisteme de msur
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SHOE LAST GRADING AND EXPERIMENTAL ESTIMATION OF DIMENSIONAL VARIATION USING DELCAM CRISPIN 3D LAST MAKER
China
Australia
Europe
Europa
Mexico
Mexic
Japan
Japonia
UK
Marea
Britanie
38
4.5
37.5
4.5
5.5
39
38
39.5
5.5
38.5
25
24
5.5
6.5
40
39
24.5
41
6.5
40
26
25
6.5
7.5
40.5
25.5
42
7.5
41
27
7.5
8.5
43
42
26
43.5
8.5
42.5
28
26.5
8.5
9.5
44
43
27
10
44.5
9.5
44
29
27.5
9.5
10.5
45
10
44.5
28
10
11
46
45
30
29
10.5
11.5
11
45.5
29.5
12
47
46
31
30
13
48.5
12
47.5
32
31
129
M. DRISCU, M. COSTEA
China
Australia
Europe
Europa
Mexico
Mexic
Japan
Japonia
UK
Marea
Britanie
35.5
35
21
2.5
5.5
36
5.5
35.5
21.5
37
36
22
3.5
6.5
37.5
37
22.5
38
7.5
37.5
23
4.5
7.5
39
38
4.5
23.5
39.5
8.5
38.5
24
5.5
8.5
40
39
5.5
24.5
41
10
40
25
6.5
9.5
11
41
6.5
25.5
10
42
12
42
26
7.5
130
US / Canada
SUA / Canada
Europe
Europa
Japan
Japonia
UK
Marea
Britanie
6.5
23
5.5
23.5
14
7.5
24
6.5
24.5
15
8.5
25
7.5
25.5
16
9.5
26
8.5
10
26.5
16.5
10.5
27
9.5
11
27.5
17.5
10
11.5
28
10.5
12
28.5
18.5
11
12.5
29
11.5
13
30
19
12
31
20
13
1.5
31.5
20.5
13
32.5
21
2.5
33
21.5
1.5
33.5
22
SHOE LAST GRADING AND EXPERIMENTAL ESTIMATION OF DIMENSIONAL VARIATION USING DELCAM CRISPIN 3D LAST MAKER
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M. DRISCU, M. COSTEA
Gradarea calapoadelor
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SHOE LAST GRADING AND EXPERIMENTAL ESTIMATION OF DIMENSIONAL VARIATION USING DELCAM CRISPIN 3D LAST MAKER
Notes
Note
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M. DRISCU, M. COSTEA
Figure 7. Window of the Last Maker application for size and width selection
Figura 7. Fereastra aplicaiei Last Maker pentru selectarea numrului de mrime i lrgime a calapodului
REZULTATE I DISCUII
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SHOE LAST GRADING AND EXPERIMENTAL ESTIMATION OF DIMENSIONAL VARIATION USING DELCAM CRISPIN 3D LAST MAKER
?
Each file
?
S-a studiat fiecare din fiierele ce conin noile
Figure 9.
?
The measurements
calapoade, Figura 9.
?
Dimensiunile noilor calapoade au fost salvate
n baza de date, Figura 8 i Tabelul 4.
?
Dimensiunile calapoadelor din baza de date au
fost folosite la crearea graficelor cu ajutorul aplicaiei
Microsoft Excel (Tabelul 4, grafic din Figura 8).
Conform valorilor din tabel (Tabelul 4) i celor din
grafice rezult o cretere a parametrilor corespunztori
lungimii calapodului cu pstrarea valorii numerice
pentru lrgime.
Table 4: Main parameters values for a last with different size number
Tabelul 4: Valori ale parametrilor de baz ai unui calapod pentru mai multe numere de mrime
Size number
Numr de mrime
4.5
5.5
6.5
7.5
8.5
Width
Lime
Stick Length-par1
Proiecia n plan a tlpii
calapodului-par1
234
239
243
247
253
257
261
266
270
274
280
Bottom Length-par2
Lungimea pe curbur a
tlpii calapodului-par2
237
243
247
252
258
262
266
273
277
281
288
Girth-par3
Perimetrul la degete-par3
175
177
179
182
183
186
188
190
192
195
197
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M. DRISCU, M. COSTEA
Figure 9. Last Maker files obtained by modifying the size number and keeping the widths
Figura 9. Fiiere Last Maker obinute prin modificarea numrului de mrime a calapodului
cu pstrarea lrgimii neschimbate
Figure 10. Results of modifying the width while keeping the size number unchanged
Figura 10. Rezultatele modificrii limii i pstrarea numrului de mrime neschimbat
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SHOE LAST GRADING AND EXPERIMENTAL ESTIMATION OF DIMENSIONAL VARIATION USING DELCAM CRISPIN 3D LAST MAKER
Table 5: Values for main parameters in case of modifying the width while keeping the size number unchanged
Tabelul 5: Valorile parametrilor de baz n cazul modificrii limii i pstrarea numrului de mrime neschimbat
Size number
Numr de mrime
Width
Lime
4F
3F
2F
2A
3A
4A
5A
Stick Length-par1
Proiecia n plan a tlpii
calapodului-par1
270
270
270
270
270
270
270
270
270
270
270
270
270
Bottom Length-par2
Lungimea pe curbur a
tlpii calapodului-par2
279
279
279
279
279
279
279
278
278
278
278
277
277
Girth-par3
Perimetrul la degete-par3
207
206
204
203
201
200
198
197
196
194
193
191
187
CONCLUSIONS
CONCLUZII
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