Kyoto

10 March 2015
22:08

Winding through Arashiyama and Sagano

Tranquil winter walking at its very best

This month KVG invites you to stroll through the wonderful Arashiyama-Sagano district in Western Kyoto,
an area of stunning beauty that was favoured by the noble classes 1,200 years ago. Today, Arashiyama is
considered to be Kyoto's second most-popular tourist destination. It is especially wonderful when the
maples color the area bright red (until about mid-December). This area is best explored on foot because
there is something to see everywhere along the way, including wonderfully lush temple and shrine
compounds, old private villas, and narrow streets lined with craft and souvenir shops.

Getting to Arashimaya
From Kyoto Stn.: Take Kyoto City bus #28 or Kyoto Bus #71, #72, #73, or take the JR Sagano Line to
Saga Arashiyama Stn.From downtown: Take Kyoto City Bus #28 or #11 (#11 also can be caught from
Shijo Kawaramachi), or take the Keifuku Arashiyama Line to Arashiyama Stn. (from Shijo Omiya Stn.).
Start this walk from Randen (Keifuku) Arashiyama Stn. The station is an attraction in itself. There are a
number of shops selling traditional sweets and beverages as well as plenty of places to sit down and relax.
If you are cold or weary, then the station's lovely open-air natural hot spring footbath is sure to soothe
(entry is 150 yen, including towel; buy your ticket on the left side of the entry gates; open: 9:00-20:00; Tel:
075-873-2121; www.arashiyama-hanahoko.jp).

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After leaving the station, cross the street and enter the vast grounds of the Tenryu-ji Temple complex.
Tenryu-ji Temple (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), head temple of the Tenryu-ji Rinzai Zen sect, was built
in 1339 by Takauji Ashikaga (1305-1358), the first Ashikaga shogun. At its peak, Tenryu-ji Temple ranked
as the largest Zen monastery in western Japan, with 120 sub-temples. The temple's exquisite pond garden
dates back to the Heian period (794-1185). The current layout of the garden is the work of Muso Soseki
(1275-1351), one of the most respected Zen monks of the 14th century.

After seeing the main buildings of the temple and passing through the garden you will come to the northern
gate of the complex and enter Arashiyama's famous bamboo forest. The play of light and shadow along this
serene 200-meter path is a wonder to behold.

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First, turn left and follow the path uphill until you come to a T-intersection. Look to your right and you will
see a narrow road leading uphill. This is the entry point to the two-hectare former estate of Denjiro Okochi
(1898-1962), Japan's most famous silent film star. Known as Okochi Sanso, this attractive ''spiral'' garden
and teahouse complex is well worth exploring (entry includes a fine ceramic bowl of whipped green tea).
The views from Mt. Ogura, where Okochi Sanso lies, have been celebrated in classical poetry since Heian
times.
After leaving Okochi Sanso, follow the bamboo forest path back in the direction you came from and you will
soon come to Nonomiya Shrine where the wind often rustles musically through the bamboo leaves. In the
days of Hikaru Genji, the hero of the Heian romance The Tale of Genji (written by the female court officer,
Murasaki Shikibu, in the 11th century), generations of imperial princesses spent a year undergoing
purification rites at Nonomiya Shrine before taking up residence at the sacred seat of Japanese Shintoism,
Ise Grand Shrine.
Next along the route lies Seiryo-ji Temple, also known as Saga Shaka-do. Founded in 987 by the priest
Chonen, this temple is home to several National Treasures and numerous works of art, including a statue
of the Buddha carved 1,000 years ago in China. The temple also features a fine mandala, a pond garden,
and five rare wooden Heian-period statues.

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Now follow the map route onwards to the bucolic thatched hut known as Rakushisha. Translated to mean
the Cottage of the Fallen Persimmon, this site was visited by the famous haiku poet Basho Matsuo
(1644-1694). A great number of stones in the garden are inscribed with poems (translations for some are
given in the pamphlet).

Next meander west to Nison-in Temple. Until the capital was moved to Tokyo, Nison-in Temple was one of
only four temples in Japan that conducted Imperial Buddhist ceremonies. Its hillside grounds are studded
with the graves of emperors and aristocrats. The main temple building has two important Buddhist images
of Shaka and Amida, and beautifully painted fusuma sliding doors. The spacious grounds are as tranquil
and still as its long-term residents.

To continue, follow the map route north towards the simple yet beautiful grounds of Gio-ji Temple. Gio and
her sister Gijo were Heian-period dancers. According to the Tale of the Heike, Gio was the mistress of
Taira no Kiyomori (1118-1181), a famous military leader. When he became smitten with another dancer
(with the stage name of Lady Buddha), he banished Gio from his mansion. A year later, Lady Buddha, filled
with remorse for Gio, decided to join her, her sister, and mother in this secluded retreat. They lived out their
days in prayer, waiting for this transient life and its humiliations to end.
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days in prayer, waiting for this transient life and its humiliations to end.

Follow the map directions until you reach the approach to Ichi no Torii, the gateway to Mt. Atago and Atago
Shrine (home to the deity of fire protection). Known as Torii-moto, the upper end of this incline has a few
time-worn thatch-roof Kyoto-style farmhouses. On the way up the gentle slope you will pass a number of
shops selling attractive souvenirs and crafts, as well as a couple of restaurants and coffee/tea shops. A
little further along on the left you will find a stone stairway that leads to Adashino Nenbutsu-ji Temple, a
stunning temple that is famous for its thousands of stone Buddhist images.

The red torii (shrine gate) at the top of the road marks the beginning of the two-hour climb to the top of Mt.
Atago and Atago Shrine. On either side of the torii are huge 400-year-old tea houses that have served
pilgrims and visitors for centuries. Meals are also served at both places (about 10,000 yen; reservations
necessary). But for hardly anything you can enjoy a bowl of tea inside the ancient smoke-darkened interior,
or outside on a red felt covered bench.
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or outside on a red felt covered bench.

If you walk uphill (with the torii to your left) you will come to Otagi Nenbutsu-ji Temple. An English pamphlet
is available upon request. On the hilly grounds of this temple the visitor will find a wonderful array of
unusual carved stone Buddhist figures, characterized by big smiles and joyful energy.

\\Recommended & Restaurants in Arashiyama

Togetsutei Shofukaku
Togetsutei is a traditional Japanese ryokan inn facing the river, west of the Togetsu-kyo Bridge. Here, you
can enjoy superb views of the river while savouring the sophisticated delights of their authentic Japanese
kaiseki cuisine. They also have a fine onsen hot spa facility (some rooms are equipped with a private open
air bath). Day-trip plans, including lunch and bath, are available (from 3,990 yen/person; 11:00-15:00;
towels will be provided). Tel: 075-871-1310; http://www.togetsutei.co.jp/

Takemura
Takemura is an old Japanese restaurant that specializes in yu-dofu, a popular winter cuisine in Kyoto.
Takemuras tofu is made by a local tofu specialist with Japanese soy beans and pure local well water.
Course menus are recommended (3,100 yen - 4,600 yen). Meals are served in traditional Japanese tatami
rooms. Open: 11:30-20:00; closed: Thurs.; Tel: 075-861-1483; http://www.a-dos.ne.jp/map/ukyo/takemura/

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Shigetsu
Shigetsu, overlooking a beautifully landscaped garden inside the Tenryu-ji Temple complex, serves unique
Buddhist vegetarian shojin ryori lunches using yuba, tofu and seasonal vegetables. Many shojin ryori
ingredients are Kyoto specialty products. Reservations are necessary. Open: 11:00-14:00; Tel:
075-882-9725.

\\Kyoto Hanatouro in Arashiyama 2011

December 9 (Fri.) - 18 (Sun.)
Light up hours: 17:00-20:30

Pasted from <http://www.kyotoguide.com/ver2/thismonth/hanatouro-arashiyama11.html>

Okochi-Sanso Villa is one of the top sights in Kyoto. It rivals any of the citys imperial
properties, and you dont need reservations to enter.

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Formerly the estate of the famed film actor Okochi Denjiro (1898-1962), this sublime villa and
surrounding gardens are now open to the public. Many people balk at the Y1,000 admission
fee, but we think its worth shelling out to see this place, especially since the admission fee
includes a nice Japanese sweet and a cup of hot matcha tea (hold onto your ticket in order to
get these in the teahouse at the conclusion of the tour). The main house here is one of the
finest examples of traditional Japanese residential architecture anywhere and the teahouse is a
wabi-sabi gem.
But its the gardens here that really boggle the mind. Follow the standard route, which is clearly
indicated with arrows, and youll see all the important parts, including a viewpoint that offers
views across the whole city and a lovely little Shinto shrine. Frankly, we usually counsel visitors
who are thinking of going through the admission process to see one of Kyotos imperial
properties to skip the hassle and just come here. Here, theres no application procedure and
you can explore at your own pace no following a tour guide with a group of strangers.
Walking Tour: Okochi-Sanso Villa features in our Private Walking Tour of Arashiyama

English address: 8 Tabushiyama-cho, Saga Ogurayama, Ukyo-ku

Japanese address:
Opening hours: 9:00am-5:00pm
Admission:
Adults and College and High school students: Y1000
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Adults and College and High school students: Y1000

Junior high and elementary school students: Y500
Non-smoking area: Yes
Nearest Transport:
15 min walk from Arashiyama Station, Keifuku dentetsu, Arashiyama line
25 min walk from Arashiyama Station, Henkyu railway

Pasted from <http://www.insidekyoto.com/okochi-sanso-villa-arashiyama>

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