Frost & Matte Eyeshadows

with HallBrite BHB

Formulae JHP3-61-1 & JHP3-69-1
U.S. Patent No. 6,350,894

FORMULA (* = available from HallStar)

JHP3-61-1 JHP3-69-1
Phase Ingredient INCI Name (Trade Name, Supplier)
% Wt
% Wt Purpose
A
Talc (Cosmetic Talc 114 USP B.C., Cosmetic Specialties)
30.95
41.35
filler
Nylon-12 (Orgasol 2002D Nat Cos, Lipo)
3.00
specialty filler
Zinc Stearate (Zinc Stearate 921-G, Brenntag)
6.00
4.00
dry binder
Iron Oxides (C33-8073 SunCROMA Yellow Iron Oxide, Sun Chemical) 0.50
0.50
colorant
Iron Oxides (A-1226, Color Techniques)
0.20
1.50
colorant
Iron Oxides (C33-134 SunCROMA Black Iron Oxide, Sun Pigments) 0.20
2.50
colorant
Ultramarines (C7104 [blue], Sensient Color Technologies)
0.50
colorant
Bismuth Oxychloride (Biron LF-2000, EMD Chemicals)
5.00
7.50
specialty filler
Kaolin (Kaolin 2457, Brenntag)
5.00
5.00
dry binder
Ascorbyl Palmitate (Ascorbyl Palmitate, DSM)
0.05
0.05
antioxidant
Mica, Dimethicone (Sericite SI4, Senyi)
5.00
30.00
specialty filler
Benzoic Acid
0.10
0.10
preservative
B
Mica, Titanium Dioxide (Flamenco Super Pearl 120C, BASF)
10.00
pearlescence
Mica, Iron Oxides, Titanium Dioxide (Cloisonn Copper 340X, BASF) 30.00
pearlescence
C
*Butyloctyl Salicylate (HallBrite BHB, HallStar)
4.00
2.00
wet binder, wetter
Dimethicone (Dow Corning 200 Fluid; 100 cs, Dow Corning)
3.00
2.00
emollient, slip aid
Eyeshadow Formulation
Pressed powder eyeshadows consist of a carrier (filler), colorants, texture modifiers (often called specialty fillers),
and binders (to compact the product into a breakage resistant cake). The formulation base used here is typical of
many current pressed powder formulations.
Dry ingredients: The principal filler is talc with one or more specialty fillers to modify slip, skin feel, wear, or
compressibility. Bismuth Oxychloride improves slip, adhesion, pressing, and provides some coverage. Dimethiconetreated sericite improves slip. The surface treatment improves compaction of the sericite and gives a lubricious feel.
Zinc Stearate is the most common dry binder. Kaolin is also a dry binder, and provides some coverage.

The HallStar Company 120 South Riverside Plaza Suite 1620 Chicago, IL 60606
Tel: 877-427-4255 (International: 312-385-4494) Fax: 908-852-1335 E-mail: customerservice@hallstar.com Web Site: www.hallstar.com
The information presented herein is believed to be accurate and reliable, but no warranty or guaranty, expressed or implied, is made regarding the
information or the performance of any product. Further, nothing contained herein shall be taken as any inducement or recommendation to use,
manufacture or sell that may infringe any patents or any other proprietary rights now or hereafter in existence.

Oils: The oils act as wet binders to hold the powder together. Oils that wet the dry ingredients well will produce
excellent compaction but, used alone, may cause the cake to be too hard and so not allow adequate pickup in use.
Here, HallBrite BHB (which wets dry ingredients well) and dimethicone (a poor wetting emollient) are used.
Discussion:
Pressed powder formulation is an empirical science, balancing application, color, effect, wear, and compression.
Mica based pearl platelets are difficult to press, so the frost eyeshadow uses higher levels of Zinc Stearate (dry
binder) and oils (wet binders). HallBrite BHB is highly recommended because of its good wetting properties. Still,
the frosted shade does not compact as well, resulting in a lower weight fill, even at the higher required pressure.
In general, HallBrite BHB provides a smooth, non-oily feel and wets pigments well, resulting in good color
development. Low levels achieve good compression, yet good deposit, without glazing on application. And products
have a creamy feel and smooth, even application. Particularly of note for these formulations:
- Frost eyeshadow JHP3-61-1 compresses well, yet applies smoothly without glazing.
- Matte eyeshadow JHP3-69-1 has a creamy feel and applies smoothly to deposit even color.
Frost&MatteEyeShadowsJHP3-61-1&JHP3-69-1

The HallStar Company 120 South Riverside Plaza Suite 1620 Chicago, IL 60606
Tel: 877-427-4255 (International: 312-385-4494) Fax: 908-852-1335 E-mail: customerservice@hallstar.com Web Site: www.hallstar.com
The information presented herein is believed to be accurate and reliable, but no warranty or guaranty, expressed or implied, is made regarding the
information or the performance of any product. Further, nothing contained herein shall be taken as any inducement or recommendation to use,
manufacture or sell that may infringe any patents or any other proprietary rights now or hereafter in existence.