SOP tree
Fabric, Trim &
Accessories
warehouse
Patterns,
Markers, Cutting
& Fusing
B
Machine repair/maintenanceJ, K
Job spec- L
Sharp objects control- F
Inline audit same as App- N3
Traffic light system- M
Key process inspection- N2
End-line inspection- N1, O
PP meeting associated- E
P
G, H, I
Sewing/asse
mbling Lines
N1,2,3
Pressing
Final inspection- N2, O
Color shade sorting
Fit audit- S
Packing
PP meeting associated- E
Finishing
B
N3
A, B, C, D
N1, 2,
3
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Fabric Relaxation
Fabric rolls must be unrolled, lapped and must be individually stored on a
separate rack.
Relaxation at least 24 hours prior to spreading & cutting. Record with the time
started for relaxation on each lot of fabric should be recorded.
Stretch fabrics could also be preshrunk using sponging machine or heat setting
machines prior to spreading/cutting.
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Pre-Production Meeting
Factory should conduct pre-production meeting for all styles prior to bulk
production.
It is essential process to ensure all of the suitable raw materials and
machineries are identified and available in order to produce the required
garments.
PP meeting record form. (see Appendix E)
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Cutting Room
Cutting room should be well lighted. (Lighting: Minimum 70 FC)
The cutting room supervisor should always receive a copy of the Fabric
Inspection Report as the fabric is passed to the cutting room for processing.
Approved shade band should be in place as a reference.
Original patterns for all sizes must be in the cutting room prior to spreading.
They must be made from card and must be hung in the cutting room for
immediate reference.
Make sure that each dye lot must be cut in the order size ratio.
Roll code with dye lot should be recorded in each cutting quality report (see
Appendix G).
Fabric piles must always be cut in specified directions. Again, this must be
specified on the PP report during the meeting.
Notches must be checked for accuracy, and depth shouldnt exceed 1/8 in
some cases especially on knitted fabric or delicate fabrics it may be advisable
to mark these as small triangles on the outside rather than notches.
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Cutting Room--Continued
A maximum height of 3 must be used. However this might vary depending on the
fabrication.
The edge on all piles must be totally flush prior to cutting and under no circumstance
should any cutting commence until the lay had been scrutinized by the cutting room
manager.
End cuts should be re-ticketed and put to one side in an orderly fashion. The original
ticket should be used to ensure that if re-cuts are needed they come from the same roll
and dye lot.
Tissue paper must be used to separate individual rolls.
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Shade Numbering
All Brands production must be numbered not only by size, but also must contain
information on the dye lot control.
All parts must be numbered, and these must remain on the garment until shade
sorting.
- Suggest that a visual guide is used to identify lots. The color coding can be used
in many different way that is a fast and efficient to maintain lot integrity.
Fused parts numbering isnt easy to handle because it could leave a mark or the
numbers could be taken off and put back in the wrong order or not at all. For
shade numbering control, fusing section is a key player.
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20
Fusing Room
Approved lab test reports from PCC or Vilene for the actual interlining should
be in place with a swatch for reference.
Factory should check at least 2 to 3 times a day on machine temperature and
fuse line temperature using thermo papers or thermometer.
At least checking of twice a day for the bond strength with using bond strength
tester.
Record (including temperature, dwell time, pressure & bond strength) should
be maintained for reference. (Fusing recordsee Appendix I)
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Machine repair records must exist for each machine and the summary records are kept in the workshop,
and which must be signed by the mechanic and head mechanic each time whilst work carry out.
Planned maintenance schedule must exist. Each machine must pull in at least once every two months
depends on type of machinery and serviced as part of factories ongoing preventative maintenance
program.
Ensure proper training gave for new operator and daily care procedure.
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Sewing lines
A job specification for each operation should be placed in front of each sewing
worker as a reference of the acceptable standard. Same fabrication mock up
reference sample are acceptable. (see Appendix L)
The reference sample should be sewn by the operator performing the operation
and approved by technician or quality auditor and also signed by the operator for
quality agreement.
Traffic light system should be performed. And Line Lighting is at least 70 FC.
A traffic light report containing one complete month of readings must be posted
at the machine. Factory must implement properly Sharp Objects Control.
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Sewing lines--continued
An internal production sample and approved tech pack should be posted in each
sewing line. And trims cards should be in place.
The end-line inspector must inspect 100% of the garments of his/her line and
record defects as stated with in-line audit report.
100% key process inspections are needed for key operation prior to the
assembling. Key process must be defined at PP meeting stage and recorded in.
The inline auditor and end-line inspector must compare findings at least every 2
hours and report workmanship or machine issues to the QA supervisor/manager.
Inline auditors scheme must be a ratio of 1:20 operators and less 25 operators.
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25
Appendix M )
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End-line inspections
Factory should carry out 100% inspection to appearance & workmanship of
finished WIP at end of each sewing line.
Sheets of measurement inspection must be filed properly, and measurement
should be checked for across sizes and colors of a minimum of 10% of daily
output of each line in key points and at least 3 pieces of every size in full point.
The only way to measure a garment is in fact with a tape measure.
Hourly records must be kept, using the End-Line Daily Inspection Report. (see
Appendix N1). This report breaks down the repair rate into hourly figures for real
time management.
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Pressing
Vacuum tables should be equipped. Vacuuming be used only after the
garment has been pressed.
All pressing equipment should be regularly maintained and clean.
Pressing tables covers & pads must be replaced on a regular basis.
Factory should avoid stacking of finished products too high while they are still
damp.
Prevent any unnecessary wrinkles on garments prior to packing.
Teflon shoes must be used on delicate fabric and sensitive colors.
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Final Inspection
Factory should carry out 100% checking of the finished products on workmanship
& appearance prior to packing.
Factory should carry out 100% checking on critical measurement prior to packing.
Defective garments should be segregated clearly into area different from quality
garments.
Daily Final Inspection finding should be recorded properly (see Appendix N2 same
format as End-line Inspection Report). It will be easy to see how effective the Endline is by making this direct comparison.
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Fit Audits
Factory should audit the fitting of the finished products for each style against the
approved green tag samples with using the approved mannequin.
Record should be kept for reference. We suggest factory to back up with
photographs taken. Also like each factory to comply their own fit audit report (see
Appendix S).
This must be done on a weekly basis to ensure that the integrity of the garment
remains.
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Packing
Proper folding instruction should be in place for operators prompt reference.
Factory should reduce any unnecessary wrinkles on finished garments prior to
packing.
Factory should allow the finished garments being dried sufficiently before
putting into plastic bags.
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Defect Analysis
To address the problem in the right time with the right approach,
factories have to analyze their weakness first. Defects found in
daily In-line, End-line & Final inspection have to be properly
recorded and analyzed by defect groups for corrective and
preventative action. (Refer to Appendix N1 & N2 )
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