Author(s): B. W. Higman
Source: NWIG: New West Indian Guide / Nieuwe West-Indische Gids, Vol. 72, No. 1/2 (1998), pp.
77-95
Published by: BRILL on behalf of the KITLV, Royal Netherlands Institute of Southeast Asian and
Caribbean Studies
Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/41849892
Accessed: 28-08-2015 19:38 UTC
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B.W. Higman
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78
B.W. HIGMAN
1890-1899
11
1900-1909
1910-1919
1
1
1920-1929
1930-1939
1
1
1940-1949
2
1950-1959
2
3
1
1960-1969
4
4
10
1970-1979
7
8
3
14
1980-1989 22
1990-1997 16
6
2
9
Total
49
22
11
37
Total
f~
2
2
2
6
25
47
33_
119
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ANDCARIBBEAN
COOKBOOKS
IDENTITY
CULTURAL
79
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80
B.W. HIGMAN
is significant,
butit is equallyimportant
to
establishment
of thenation/state
observe thatslave societyand a developedcuisine,as symbolizedby the
cookbook, were not contradictory.Goody (1982:98) has argued that
cookbooks are most likelyto appear in literatecivilizationswith"high"
cuisine markinga societythat
and "low" cuisines: "a trulydifferentiated
as
well
as
is stratified
culturally
politically."He has arguedalso thatthe
natureof a cuisine is closely relatedto thesystemof foodproductionand
is seen as criticalto the
Wherethedisplayof class hierarchies
distribution.
maintenanceof a social order,and wherethe powerfulclasses consume
exotic, expensive foods, therecookbooks with theircommunicationof
specialistknowledgeare likelyto be published(Appadurai1988:4).
of theCaribThis argumentsuggestsseveralinteresting
interpretations
and techniquesof food preparation
bean case. One is thatthe ingredients
and thata "creole" cuisinereadilyunderwere not stronglydifferentiated
stoodby cooks, slave or free,emergedat an earlyperiod.Thereis evidence
to supportthis conclusion,but equally thereis muchto suggestthatthe
planterclass did enjoy and displaya cuisinewhichwas "high"in quality
it
as well as quantity.Certainlyfood was a culturalfocus. Alternatively,
rise
of
and
the
be
contended
that
the
may
rapid
absentee-proprietorship
shrinkageof thewhitepopulationin theBritishWestIndiesmeanttoo few
high tables to provide a marketfor specialized cookbooks and too few
literatecooks to make use of them.The male dominanceof whitesociety
may be significanthere,removinga potentialliteratefemalesupervisory
class fromthe kitchen.Yet anotherinterpretation
mightbe thattheWest
Indian planterclass was too powerfullyorientedto English cultureand
thatits highcuisinerelatedalmostexclusivelyto dishesthatcould be prepared froman Englishcookbook.This is notveryconvincing,in termsof
the evidence foundof plantertables, and it may be concluded thatthe
argumentsrootedin the size of the marketand the creolizationof cooks
and cookeryseem muchmorefruitful
linesof investigation.
Thus farthe argumenthas been concernedwithan absence,thefailure
of the sugar-slaverysociety of the West Indies to produce even one
cookbook witha creole/regional
orientation.Emancipationmade no difference.It was not untilthe 1890s and the collapse of sugar in Jamaica
that a cookbook was published,with a self-conscious"Jamaican"perspective.Caroline Sullivan's Jamaica CookeryBook of 1893, beginning
withturtlesoup, was directedespeciallyat "new-comers"to
appropriately
the island and explainedfortheirbenefitthe ways of the "natives."This
approachreflectedthe resurgenceof the plantation,particularly
through
thebanana, and the arrivalof a new kindof white"settler"and "visitor."
On salt-fish,Sullivan said (1893:12-15): "It is surprisingto most new-
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ANDCARIBBEAN
COOKBOOKS
CULTURAL
IDENTITY
81
la
Sandiford"
with
by
"Agouti
ically alphabetical,beginning
were female,Mrs. someone or other,
Mrs. Greig. All of the contributors
includingsome probableBarbadians(Mrs. Yearwood who offered"sweet
Barbados biscuits"and Mrs. E.L. Bovell with"jug"). None of the recipe
names were associated with "Trinidad" but there were four "creole"
items: creole cocoa, creole savoury(melangene),creole salad (calaloo,
onion,limejuice), and saltfish la creole.Therewere
potatoes,breadnuts,
for
lappe, pilau, sancocho,pepperpot, calaloo, but no pastelles.
recipes
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82
B.W. HIGMAN
Bengal chutneywas contributedby Mrs. Adolphus Gittens,and "Bobotee" (Indian curry)by Mrs. Rankin.
Similar in approach and style was The Peter Pan Book of Recipes
compiledby Mrs. W. Baillie and publishedin Jamaicain 1928. This is the
firstCaribbeancookbook identifiedwithoutany West Indianreferencein
or prefaceand simplycommences
its title.The book has no introduction
with"Baked Banana." Recipes forbreadfruit,
cassava, coconut,and other
local materialsare mixed with macaroni,scones, and junket; the only
sectionidentifiedwiththeisland is for"Jamaicadrinks"(tamarindwater,
sorrel,pine,and soursop drink).This thenis thefirstexampleof a general
cookbook, unreflectiveof any local orientation,sold to raise fundsfor
charity,at one shillinga copy towardsthe JamaicaWesleyanChildren's
cenHome. Such ventureswere to become commonin thelatertwentieth
tury.
No new cookbooks have been identifiedfor the 1930s. Two were
publishedin the 1940s, one in Trinidadand theotherin London,butnone
in the 1950s. In thecase of Jamaicano cookbookis knownfortheentire
period 1930 to 1962, theperiodof social unrestleadingup to Federation
and independence.No cookbook associatedwiththeFederationhas been
of nationalidenidentified.It mustbe concludedthenthatthe formation
tities prior to political independencein the Britishcolonies found no
of a WestIndiancuisine.
expressionin thedefinition
significant
The two cookbooks of the 1940s standout as exceptionsto thisgeneral rule.The firstof these,WestIndian Cookery, was publishedin London
in June1945 and reprinted
regularlydownto 1976 whena revised,abbreviatedversionappeared.The author,Miss E. PhyllisClark,was "formerly
Lecturerin DomesticScience, Government
TrainingCollege forTeachers,
Trinidad and Tobago and of Departmentof Education, Uganda." She
preparedthe book "at the express requestof the Trinidadand Tobago
NutritionCommittee"and it was intendedto "fosterin the younga correct attitude"towardsnutritionand diet, and to reduce the incidenceof
malnutrition.Thus the approach was strictlydidactic and the contents
divided between sections on "Food" and "How to Cook Foods." The
came first,withWest Indian referencesbut gennutritionalinformation
in
a
framework.Only Chapter 10
universal/tropical
erally presented
a
local
Provisions"
had
"Ground
genuinely
ringto it. The second section
includeda discussionof mudovens and coal-potsbutfollowedthroughto
the electricstove. The recipes includedpastelles,sancoche,and the like,
withoutexplicitassociationwithanyCaribbeanor Trinidadianidentity.
"Creole" dishes includedonly creole pea soup, creole turtlesoup, creole sauce or gravy,and creolepeppersauce. "Jamaicaakras"was theonly
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IDENTITY
ANDCARIBBEAN
CULTURAL
COOKBOOKS
83
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84
B.W. HIGMAN
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ANDCARIBBEAN
COOKBOOKS
IDENTITY
CULTURAL
85
to a largeextent
of
Therecipesin thebookreflect
thecultural
heritage
the
thepeoplein theCaribbean:
thusyouwillfindrecipesthatreflect
andbothNorth
andLatinAmerican
Indian,
African,
aspectsof
European
character.
Buteachofthedisheshasbeenadaptedto make
itsculinary
use of thefoodwe grow,suchas ackee,plantain,
coconut,
paw-paw,
whichareconsidered
exoticin other
mango,cassavaandmanyothers,
& Menus1982:foreword)
Cooking
partsoftheworld.(Caribbean
of
thecultural
Therecipesin thebookreflect
to a largeextent
heritage
theIndian,
thusyouwillfindrecipesthatreflect
thepeopleofJamaica:
African,
aspectsof its
Europeanand bothNorthand LatinAmerican
theJamaican
motto"Out of ManyOne
character
following
culinary
to makeuse ofthefood
People."Manyofthedisheshavebeenadapted
cassavaand
we grow,suchas ackee,plantain,
coconut,
mango,
paw-paw,
whichare considered
exoticin otherpartsof theworld.
manyothers,
andMenus1989:foreword)
Jamaican
( Creative
Cooking
of
thecultural
to a largeextent
The recipesin thebookreflect
heritage
thepeopleoftheBahamas:thusyouwillfindmanyofthedishesusethe
foodwe grow,suchas peas,coconut,
mango,okraandmany
paw-paw,
exoticinother
whichareconsidered
others,
partsoftheworld.(Creative
andMenus1991:foreword)
BahamianCooking
What is importantabout these parallel models is thatby the 1970s a
consensus had emerged,in which nationaland generalized"Caribbean"
Each place had its
cuisine were seen to be extensivelyinterchangeable.
particularspecialities,and "nationaldishes" were widelyrecognized,but
underlyingthe differenceswas a commoncreole Caribbeancuisine. The
identifiedas spice,
featureof thiscuisine was consistently
distinguishing
and it was seen as theproductof a blendingof cuisinesfromotherplaces.
from
The model commonlyadopted by West Indian cookbook-writers
an image suggestiveof pervasivecreoliabout 1970 was the melting-pot,
zationratherthanthepluralsociety.Caribbeancuisinewas seen as a parahave termedit
digm,theplateof fooda microcosmof society.Some writers
"creole cuisine,"using"creole" to indicatemixtureas well as local origin
versionhas appearedin so manycook(Sookia 1994:8). The melting-pot
books thatit seems to have attainedthe statusof a fixedtextin the same
way as therecipesbecame fixedin print.It tooka literalformin theBelize
Hospital Auxiliary's Cook Book of circa 1970 in whichthe ingredients
forthe national dish consistedof "V Caribs, 4 Creoles, 1 Mayan, 2Vi
Mestizas(Indianand Spanish),also othernationalities
(all sizes, shapesand
mixed
well
and
baked
were
to
be
These
shades)."
slowlyin a tropicalsun,
but said to "blend well when not stirredtoo much." Caribbean cookbooks publishedafter1970 consistentlyreferredto historyin advancing
model.For example:
themelting-pot
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86
B.W. HIGMAN
andTobagois as exciting
and as inof foodin Trinidad
The history
ofthecountry
itself.
Written
records
arefew,but
as thehistory
teresting
to generations,
customshandeddown fromgenerations
principally
indicate
a
andmethods
observation,
passedonbywordofmouth
through
of
cuisinethatcantruly
layclaimtobeingwellspicedwiththetraditions
constitute
thishomogeneous
Into
themanyraceswhotogether
society.
the
oftheCaribsandArawaks,
theSpanish,
thepothavegonethecustoms
theAfrican,
theIndian,
andtheChinese.
theEnglish,
French,
Portuguese
(Hunt1985:vii)
andthecultural
customs
andracialmixesof the
The foods,languages,
areas variedas anyon earth.
The
WestIndianislandsoftheCaribbean
Americans,
French,
Swedish,
Danish,Dutch,
British,
Spanish,
Portuguese,
colonialpowers.Laborwas imported
andMalteseall servedas regional
Eachnationality
itslanfrom
Africa,
China,India,andScotland.
brought
to mix
traditions
andracialheritage
holidays,
guages,foods,religions,
of thishistorical
stew."The richness
into"thecultural
lineageis reofourislandfoods,thelovelysmileson our
flected
in thespicyflavors
islandpatois.(Antilles
School
multi-hued
skins,andtheliltofourvarious
1986:title
page)
oneatthatcuisineis essentially
themelting
Caribbean
pot- anda tasty
Asianand American
of Arawak,African,
cooking.These
European,
havebeenabsorbed
in a uniquewayoverthe
influences
variousculinary
whichidentifies
traditional
CaribOne specificcharacteristic
centuries.
herbsandspices.Recipesvaryfrom
island
beandishesis theuseoffresh
is thecomto kitchen,
butseasoning
to island,as theydo fromkitchen
mondenominator.
1990:3)
(Hamilton
a hearty
forenjoying
the
theCubanspirit:
Cubanfoodreflects
appetite
andrichness
of life,anda respect
fortradition
sweetness
coupledwith
The foodalso revealsthehistory
of Cuba and the
adventurousness.
theisland.Cubancuisineis
diverse
groupsofpeoplewhohaveinhabited
and cookingtechniques
fromaroundthe
a melting
potof ingredients
world.(Creen1991:10)
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ANDCARIBBEAN
IDENTITY
COOKBOOKS
CULTURAL
87
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88
B.W. HIGMAN
talgic mould, locating it in times past and places lost. The cuisine
commonlybecomes somethingto be preservedratherthandeveloped,an
attitudeparallelingthefixingof thesocial memoryin thecookbook'stext.
Note
andassistance
theauthor
SandraBarnes,
Ellie
1. Forcomments
thanks
particularly
Marianne
andArnieSio.
Bowen,
Ramesar,
Bolland,
Gregory
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bhigman
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